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DIGITAL TV set-top box: first look!
SILICON
SILICON
CHIP
CHIP
APRIL 2001
6
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April 2001 1
Feature: New Unmanned Spy Planes
2 Silicon Chip
Contents
FEATURES
8 Unmanned Air Vehicles: A Force To Be Reckoned With
They’re come a long way since the Gulf War – by Bob Young
14 Review: Thomson DTI362TH Digital Set Top Box
Vol.14, No.4; April 2001
GPS Module
For PCs –
Page 18.
You not only get the digital channels but can also exorcise ghosts and
interference – by Leo Simpson
44 Review: Sound Blaster Live! Platinum 5.1
The ultimate in PC sound plus infrared remote control, 5.1-channel Dolby
Digital surround sound and a stack of software – by Ross Tester
48 Help Reform Electrical Legislation
Want to do your own wiring or repair appliances . . . and remain legal? You can
help change the legislation.
76 A New 555 Timer IC
This new design works down to just 0.9V.
PROJECTS TO BUILD
18 A GPS Module For Your PC
Link it to your PC and trace your position on an on-screen map. These’s lots of
freeware and shareware to use with it as well – by Peter Johnson
30 Dr Video: An Easy-To-Build Video Stabiliser
Clean up those copy-protection nasties and get a rock-solid picture on your
TV from tape or DVD – by Jim Rowe
Dr Video: An Easy-To-Build Video
Stabiliser – Page 30.
50 A Tremolo Unit For Musicians
Jazz up your music with this easy-to-build unit – by John Clarke
58 The Minimitter FM Stereo Transmitter
Broadcast a stereo signal from your CD player or any other source. The signal
can be picked up on a standard FM receiver – by John Clarke
66 Intelligent Nicad Battery Charger
“Connect-and-forget” unit fast-charges 7.2-14.4V battery packs from power
tools and model cars. A PIC processor simplifies the circuit – by Peter Hayles
SPECIAL COLUMNS
Minimitter FM Stereo Transmitter
– Page 58.
40 Serviceman’s Log
OK, you fix it big shot – by the TV Serviceman
74 Computer Tips: Tweaking Internet Connection Sharing
Simple registry hacks and utilities to make ICS work for you
78 Vintage Radio
Keith Lang: a collector in the west – by Rodney Champness
85 Book Reviews
Master Handbook On Acoustics; The Robot Builders Bonanza
DEPARTMENTS
2
4
57
82
85
Publisher’s Letter
Mailbag
Subscriptions Form
Product Showcase
Electronics Showcase
90
93
94
96
Ask Silicon Chip
Notes & Errata
Market Centre
Advertising Index
Intelligent Nicad Battery Charger
– Page 66.
April 2001 1
PUBLISHER’S LETTER
www.siliconchip.com.au
Publisher & Editor-in-Chief
Leo Simpson, B.Bus., FAICD
Production Manager
Greg Swain, B.Sc.(Hons.)
Technical Staff
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Ross Tester
Rick Walters
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Phone (02) 9979 5644
Fax (02) 9979 6503
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Louis Challis
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Bob Young
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ISSN 1030-2662
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2 Silicon Chip
Time for a change in the
electrical wiring rules
As foreshadowed last month, we have
produced a petition to politicians throughout
Australia, to change the electrical wiring rules
in each state, to the system which has been
used in New Zealand since 1992. This allows
homeowners to do their own electrical wiring.
I appeal to all readers to check out pages
48 & 49 of this issue. Strictly speaking, you
will find that it is a “letter of will” rather
than a petition because petitions have a long
record of being ignored by politicians and
parliaments. Please fill in the form and send
it to us so we can send it on to the relevant politicians in each state. We
need your support.
Since it was raised back in June 2000, this issue has generated far more
heat, and more correspondence, than any other. More particularly, we have
been accused of producing a hate campaign against electricians and being
one-sided in our publication of the various letters.
Well, readers can draw their own conclusions on both aspects but it is
well to remember why the whole debate was triggered off in the first place:
because it is now illegal for anyone in Queensland to assemble or repair a
mains-powered project or appliance unless they are a licensed electrician.
This ludicrous situation applies to the repair of all electronic equipment,
whether it is a VCR, TV or exotic medical equipment such as CT scanners
- regardless of the fact that most (not all, I hasten to say) electricians have
very little knowledge of electronics.
Then a reader brought our attention to the fact that, in New Zealand and
other countries, homeowners can not only do repairs on electrical equipment,
they can also do their own home wiring. This situation in New Zealand has
been in place since 1992. And apparently, there has been no increase in
electrical fatalities since its inception.
Since we made this point, some readers have claimed that the New Zealand statistics are dodgy. Well, they’re not. We do not think there will be
an increase in deaths brought about by dodgy wiring, when homeowners
are eventually allowed to do their own wiring. Rather, we expect overall
safety to improve because the various electrical authorities will be forced
to carry out education campaigns on how wiring should be done. We look
forward to that.
Since this situation has blown up, NCP (National Competition Policy)
reviews of electrical safety related legislation have started in most states.
These reviews will impinge directly on this issue of home-wiring. Interested
readers are invited to make submissions but you will need to move quickly.
In Queensland, if you want to make a submission, you need to contact the
Queensland State Treasury by the end of this month (31st March 2001).
The same advice applies to Tasmania, Western Australia and New South
Wales. The legislation in each state should be changed. Let’s get it done.
Leo Simpson
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Electrical licensing debate
I have been following the debate
on electrical licensing with interest.
Some years ago, when the late Neville
Williams had a column called “The
Way I See It”, I wrote in detailing my
attempts to obtain an electrician’s
license from the background of a
professional electrical engineer.
I went to the local TAFE (as it was
in those days) to the electrical trades
department for the requirements.
Basically they amounted to: (1) university degree in electrical engineering – yes; (2) sitting the regulations
exam (I had no objection to that); (3)
a minimum of 12 month’s “hands on”
experience – yes; but if I did that I
would only get a class B license.
I didn’t pursue the matter any
further.
This leads to a hypocritical situation whereby, as a pro
fessional
engineer, I can design and specify
installations but not actually pick up
any tools to do the work.
Is this any less hypocritical than
being able to go to the local supermarket to buy electrical fittings, which
encourages anyone to go ahead and
wire them up? I see some fittings
have the statement along the lines
of “must be installed by a licensed
electrician or other suitably qualified
personnel”. I wonder about the “other
suitably qualified personnel”.
Yes, amateurs have certainly been
known to produce some dangerous
situations. But I’m sure I’m not alone
in having had to fix dangerous situations created by licensed electricians.
Here are two examples.
(1) In a new building that was
inspected, people on the first floor
started getting tingles after about six
months. The wiring to the first floor
came up to two boxes of circuit breakers. The only connection between the
earth links in each box was the metal
to metal contact between the two
boxes! After six months, this contact
disappeared.
(2) At a friend’s house, the original
wiring layout in the fuse box was a
star pattern from the switched side of
the main switch to the fuseholders for
4 Silicon Chip
the separate circuits. When an extra
circuit for a shed was added, there
was no room in the terminal of the
switched side of the main switch,
so the new wire was added to the
unswitched side of the main switch!
It will be interesting to see how
things evolve.
Name withheld at writer’s request.
Please stop
electrician bashing
I have been following with interest
your current forum on the issue of
Electrical Licensing and have hesitated to put forward my views to
this point for two reasons. One being
that I try to avoid issues unless I can
see them becoming unreasonable.
Second, because I belong to that despised group of individuals, licensed
electricians, and as such, am averse
to being pilloried for airing my views.
May I begin by saying that I have
spent over 37 years in the trade and
over that time I have seen very well
installed home brews and also some
frightening situations. I am not averse
to giving a person, whom I feel I can
trust, the gear and advice to allow
them to install the odd power-point or
light; with the proviso I check it out
after its done to make sure all is OK.
I feel the debate has been quite
unreasonable all along. In my perception, it smacks of sour grapes on
the part of technically capable people
who have their noses out of joint because by law, they have to leave what
they perceive as technically simple
work to those whom they perceive
to be technically inferior.
This includes you Mr Simpson,
as testified by the amazingly stupid
statements made in your editorial of
the March 2001 edition. You have obviously missed the point completely,
when you imply that electricians are
going to act as policemen, looking
for opportunities to report anything
they see as out of the norm (including
“neat” wiring).
At this point I have to take exception to the implication you make by
the statement “Because it’s neat and
obviously not done by any normal
electrician?” I find it difficult to
describe my rage at the arrogance of
that statement. You use the privilege
of your editorship to blatantly insult
a large proportion of your readers! I
am one and I know many other electricians who take great pride in a neat
job well executed.
These statements, together with
others along the lines that the whole
thing is a plot to perpetuate the livelihood of electricians, shows to me,
and I’m sure most other electricians,
that you cannot see the realities of
what happens out in the field simply
because you do not work there.
I recognise, as do all competent
electricians, that there are, what one
correspondent referred to as, “bad
apples”. But in this case, the whole
barrel is not spoilt. On the contrary,
the vast majority of electricians are
very conscientious about the safety
of their work. Certainly, it isn’t always pretty but it’s safe. You speak
of wiring that couldn’t be done by
an electrician because its neat. I’ve
come across wiring run very neatly,
nice and straight, nailed with a clout
through the middle of the twin cable!
I’m sure all experienced electricians will have some horror tale to tell
of something they have come across
in the way of home wiring. One of
a number I can give is of the father
with five young children who proudly
told me he had installed all the power
points himself. He had installed power points in every room, all in figure-8
cable without an earth wire in sight
and certainly no thought of polarity
(what’s that?). I could go on but the
point I’m trying to make here is that
some people should be reported to
the authorities for endangering the
lives of others.
Another wiring
horror story
Senior Electronics
Technician
I have followed the
editorial and correspondence on the
electrical wiring debate as an interested
School of Physics
reader since it start
ed. I became more
The Position: You will have responsibility for managing an
than an interested
active and busy electronics workshop. Tasks will include
reader last month,
repair and design of electronics that support the School's
when I saw firstteaching and research program. This covers a wide range
hand evidence of
of projects from DC power supplies, analog and digital
an example of some
electronics and instrumentation. The opportunity exists
house-wiring.
for expanding the current workshop. Please address the
Friends of mine
selection criteria identified in the position description.
were aware I have
The Person: You have a genuine interest in electronics, a
had a Residual Curtertiary qualification in electronics or a related field, and
rent Device (RCD)
proven capabilities in instrument design,digital - interfacing
installed at my house
techniques and general laboratory equipment repair.
and witnessed its
Experience in staff supervision and highly developed
value in preventing
interpersonal skills are essential.
a possible fire when
The Benefits:Salary $45,987 - $49,780 p.a.(HEW Level 7),
my wife’s steam iron
plus
17 percent employer superannuation contributions.
failed recently. After discussing the
Employment Type: This is a fixed term (replacement)
merits of the device
position, and is available for a period of two years.
with me, they made
Contact: Ms Tracey Hall, tel (03) 8344 7670,
arrangements to have
fax (03) 9347 4783 for further information and a position
one installed in their
description.
much older house
Applications To: Deputy Principal, Human Resources,
for peace of mind,
The University of Melbourne, Victoria, 3010;
in view of all the
fax +61 3 8344 6080 by 23 March
electronic equipment
2001.
Quote position number
perman ently conY0005049M
and include the names,
nected to the supply
phone,
facsimile
numbers and email
and their aging appliaddresses of three referees in
ances.
your application.
It wasn’t long after the installation
An
equal
opportunity
was completed that
employer
I received a call and
was told that switching on a wall bracket
lamp caused the safe
ty switch to trip. I
suggested that it may
be faulty although I
involved. I knew he would continue
expected it should be connected to a
lighting circuit and not a power circuit. despite his lack of knowledge, so I
went to visit him – for his own safety.
In fact, removing a lighting fuse did
The architrave light switch group
cut the power to the light.
That weekend I received another was out of its place and a tangle of
wires was on show. What I found
call from my friend asking why there
was a red and a white wire in one amazed me! By investigation I found
that the wall-bracket had been wired
terminal of a switch. I was unable to
answer that on the phone and advised through the wall to a switch using
him to cease fiddling as he had no figure-8 flex. Where it reached the
electrical knowledge and was in a switch it was split apart and one
conductor disappeared down inside
dangerous area, which is how I became
90053
Electricians, despite what you and
your supporters may think, are in the
main, responsible people with a high
regard for safety and life. Indeed, it is
a part of our training to be responsible
in these areas. If I see a job that has
been well executed and is within the
rules, though I can tell (and, believe
me, a trained eye can) that it has not
been done by a licensed electrician,
why should I report the matter? Do
you really think we are going to be
that vindictive?
On the other hand, anyone who
does a horror job like the one described above is culpable and should
be reported for their own good and,
more importantly, for the good of
those they may kill.
Licensing authorities have to draw
the line somewhere and, at present,
the line precludes wiring by unlicens
ed people. If some technically capable
people have their noses out of joint,
perhaps they should recognise that
the law is in place not just to stop
them from doing their own wiring,
but to save incompetent people and
other innocents from death by stupidity.
The letter from the Queensland ELB
stated that they intend to review their
legislation and will take into account
the issues raised by your correspondents. Hopefully, some accommodation for these concerns can be found
without compromising safety.
My only requests are these: (1) Stop
the electrician bash
ing. It smacks
of elitism on the part of those who
perceive themselves to be technically superior. (2) Don’t advocate the
scrapping of regulations. They are
in place to protect the public from
danger (often from themselves).
If you have your way and the death
toll by electrocution rises, you are
going to have to live with that. Is that
what you want?
Ian McGrath,
via email.
Comment: it was (and still is) the
intention of the Queensland ELB that
electricians would be policemen. We
did not imply it. Based on the experience in New Zealand and other countries, we do not think there will be a
rise in deaths due to electrocution if
homeowners are eventually allowed
to do their own wiring.
April 2001 5
Mailbag – continued . . .
the architrave; the other went to the
switch. After much investigation I
found that this light used the power-outlet neutral to complete the
circuit, thus causing the imbalance
and tripping the RCD.
I removed the wall bracket and
faulty wiring, then refitted the switch
es. I had traced another wire when I
found its sheath changed colour from
black to white somewhere in the wall
and indeed, a white wire was the
‘unswitched active’; the red wire was
missing. Over a cup of tea, I commented that the wiring was quite a mess
and recapped what I had found. My
friend’s wife told me that all electrical
contractors who have done work at
that house have said the same thing.
Her next comment amazed me.
She said, “Did I tell you the previous
owner was an electrician?” It begs the
question: what standard did he use to
wire his own house?
Barry Ring,
Croydon Hills, Vic.
February issue
was enjoyable
Thanks for another bumper issue
of SILICON CHIP. I really enjoyed the
meteor counter article. More of this
stuff please.
Your article on the train controller
is what I would call a perfect balance
of theory, diagrams and construction
info. I will probably never build one,
but I indulged in reading the article
as a “mini lecture” in op amp and motor control theory. The scope screen
captures really make it so much more
interesting.
If I lose my job and have to cut
back expenses, I will just have to go
without food for a day or so, and keep
SILICON CHIP!
Garry Boyce,
Crafers, SA.
Volunteer Coast Guard
need equipment
I am hoping to get some assistance
for the Australian Volunteer Coast
Guard (a NSW State Emergency
Service) in setting up in-house servicing for the electronic equipment
used in their operation. The facility
is situated on the coast at Kingscliff,
6 Silicon Chip
NSW and monitors seagoing traffic.
It is a completely volunteer operated
organisation.
The main equipment in use is
27MHz HF SSB transceivers, some
VHF links and standby power supplies. At present, this equipment is
serviced in Brisbane at an on-going
high cost and resultant down-time.
The basic test equipment needed to
set up this service would be a general
purpose oscilloscope, RF and audio
signal generators and a suitable multimeter, Other test equipment such
as dummy loads, etc could be easily
fabricated here.
We were hoping that someone or
some organisation would be able to
assist in providing equipment for this
worthwhile cause.
If any further information is required, please contact the commander,
Ted Griffiths, Kingscliff Flotilla, Australian Volunteer Coast Guard. Phone
(02) 6674 3532.
Laurie Larsen,
Kingscliff, NSW.
Blue Mountains
Amateur Radio Club
Your editorial in the February issue
regarding electronics clubs prompted
me to let you know about the Blue
Mountains Ama
t eur Radio Club
(BMARC). Recently we relocated the
Club to St Columba’s School in North
Springwood, for a number of reasons.
Primarily, the club had outgrown
its old accommodation and was set
to expand with the addition of 6m
and 10m repeaters to our existing 2m
and 70cm repeaters. What brought
us to St Columba’s was the series of
electronics classes the school includes
in its curriculum. This brought the
chance to interact with the school on
electronics-based projects, with the
additional aim of fostering interest
in amateur radio among the students.
We have now established the club
in the school’s electronics classrooms.
We are commencing work on the club
station and the installation of a 20m
tower. The station will be also be
open to use by the students (under
the supervision of their teacher, a
licensed amateur). It will house additional equipment for the students,
including weather fax and weather
satellite receivers.
The club has also been able to
assist the school in the purchase of
equipment, as well as sponsoring
prizes at the end of the school year for
electronics students. Future projects
include the construction and installation of the school’s 14m-diameter
radio telescope and ancillary equipment. We have also been able to involve students in classes other than
electronics – the woodwork students
will be building furniture for our new
club station.
Anyone wishing to know more
about our club and our projects is most
welcome to contact us.
Phil Derbyshire, VK2FIL
PO Box 54,
Springwood NSW 2777.
www.qsl.net/bmarc/
Nepean Amateur Radio Group
I am writing to you regarding the
March editorial on electronic clubs.
Our club is the Nepean Amateur
Radio Group located at Kingswood
in western Sydney. We meet every
second Tuesday of the month and all
are welcome.
http://www.qsl.net/narg
email: narg<at>qsl.net.au
Gavin Kelly,
via email.
Vintage radio article
a benchmark
Congratulations are due to Rodney
Champness and SILICON CHIP for a
magnificent Vintage Radio article in
the March 2001 issue. SILICON CHIP
is a consistently good read but you
have produced the best vintage radio
ever in this one.
It has it all: excellent choice of an
interesting subject in the 1929 AWA
set, unusual design features in the
un-neutralized (losser) TRF front-end
and push-pull driver stage for the
audio, brilliant photographs of the
cabinet and chassis/compon
ents, a
circuit diagram that is crystal-clear
and Rodney’s engaging account of how
he brought the set back to its former
Depression-era glory.
In all: this is an edition for the
collector! It will be highly prized as
a reference document. Thank you and
please give us more of this.
Chris Morgan,
via email.
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pril
Unmanned
Air
Vehicles
By Bob Young
Unmanned air vehicles have
come a long way since the Gulf
War in 1991. Some time this month,
Global Hawk, one of the largest UAVs
ever produced, will make an historic
crossing of the Pacific, from the USA to an
air base near Adelaide in South Australia.
– a force to be
reckoned with
Y
ou can forget any idea that
UAVs are just tiny radio-controlled model aircraft with
perhaps a video link for remote monitoring.
Global Hawk (pictured above) is big,
a full-sized aircraft; it weighs more
than 11 tonnes and has a payload of
over 900kg. And it has a wing-span of
35.42 metres and is 13.53 metres long.
Not only that, Global Hawk has a
range of more than 25,000km, an en8 Silicon Chip
durance of 36 hours and a maximum
altitude of more than 65,000 feet.
By comparison, a Cessna Citation
business jet weighs about 16 tonnes,
has a payload of about 620kg, a wingspan of 19.4 metres and is 22 metres
long. Its range is about 5,500km and
ceiling (maximum altitude) is 50,000
feet.
Yes, Big Brother in the form of a
UAV could be watching you right now!
Global Hawk is one of many in a
long line of UAVs which really came
into their own during the Gulf War in
1991. SILICON CHIP had a series of four
articles on UAVs during 1993 and a
review of the models described then
shows just how far we have come in
the intervening eight years. UAVs are
now very complex devices.
Here is a machine that requires the
most advanced computer technology,
electronic control and surveillance
equipment, aeronautical engineer-
ing, and finally a unique approach to
mission planning by the UAV control
team. They might be unmanned but
they require a skilled team to control
them.
And the Holy Grail of UAV dreamers?
Nothing less than the UCAV, the
Unmanned Combat Air Vehicle, the
pilotless air superiority and/or ground
attack fighter. To date it remains a fabulous dream and it will be for some
time to come. Or at least it will until
the arrival of artificial intelligence (AI)
and control links free of jamming or
interference.
The simple fact is that a human
pilot is an extremely difficult item to
replace. But that does not mean that
the UAV has no place in military and
civilian endeavours. Far from it! The
proliferation of UAVs has reached
staggering proportions, ranging in size
from micro vehicles, with a wingspan
of just 150mm, to the huge Global
Hawk mentioned above. Without
doubt, UAV technology will progress
very quickly from here on.
Australia, after showing the world
how it should be done with the Jindivik, one of the most successful UAV
programs the world has yet seen, has
let matters slide and is now almost
totally reliant on imported UAVs to
fill the needs of the Australian Defence
Forces.
Australian UAVs
However, in the commercial field
there is quite a deal Australian activi-
The original Aerosonde, an Australian-made UAV which undertook the first
successful crossing of the Atlantic, covering some 3270km in 27 hours on just
six litres of fuel!
ty. Probably one of the best known and
most successful is the Aerosonde, a
robotic aircraft capable of fully autonomous operation over vast distances.
SILICON CHIP featured an article on the
first successful crossing of the Atlantic
by the Aerosonde in the May 1999
issue. That flight took approximately
27 hours and covered some 3270km.
During the flight the engine consumed
just six litres of fuel for an average
fuel consumption of 1600 miles to
the gallon!
A deceptively simple-looking UAV, the Avatar electric powered glider is
manufactured in Canberra by Codarra Advanced Systems. It is designed as a
man-portable tactical system, with an “over the hill or look around the corner”
capability within a localised area of interest (up to 5km).
It was a stunning achievement and
proved beyond a shadow of a doubt
that the small UAV was now capable
of major undertakings.
Designed and built in Melbourne,
initially as a meteorological research
aircraft, the Aerosonde is now being
used in an ever widening range of
tasks. Subject to a constant program
of upgrading, the Mark 3 Aerosonde
is a much improved machine, featuring a new airframe, a more powerful
fuel-injected engine and Low Earth
Orbit satellite communications.
The author was fortunate enough
to attend a UAV conference held
in Melbourne in February, during
which Dr. Greg Holland, the CEO
of Aerosonde Ltd, stunned those in
attendance with a presentation of the
operational capabilities of the Mark
3. The simplicity of operation and
the capability of this little aircraft
left the audience “gobsmacked” (to
use a phrase often overheard after the
presentation). Coming straight after
several presentations of extremely
complex military UAVs, Dr Holland
provided us with a refreshing view
of a system that was ideally suited to
small commercial operations.
The Aerosonde has a wingspan of
2.9m and weighs in at 13-14kg. Fitted
with a 24cc fuel-injected engine running on unleaded petrol, it has a speed
range of 18-32 metres per second and
April 2001 9
The Prowler II
from Aeronautical Systems,
claimed to be the
next generation in
tactical UAVs. It
can operate over
a 200km range
from its base and
is designed to
give the latest
information
to front line
elements without
risk to aircrew.
a climb rate of 2.5 metres per second.
Range is 3000km and endurance 30
hours. Operational altitude range is
100-6000 metres. Payload is 2kg with
a full fuel load.
Standard instrumentation on all
Aerosondes consists of a set of Vaisala
RSS901 meteorological instruments
for pressure, temperature and humidity, and a proprietary system for determining winds. These instruments
provide information that is critical to
the aircraft operation and valuable observations that are fed into the global
meteorological observation system.
Additional instrumentation packages in use or in development include
still and video cameras, atmospheric
chemistry and air pollution monitors,
range finders, altimeters and remote
sensing instruments for monitoring
conditions on the Earth’s surface.
As an example, the camera system
is being used to monitor and survey
items as diverse as crops to Arctic
ice formations. All in all, it is a very
simple and useful UAV.
Codarra’s Avatar
Another deceptively simple looking
UAV, manufactured in Canberra, Australia, by Codarra Advanced Systems,
is the Avatar CX-1 electric powered
glider. Designed as a man-portable
tactical system, the Avatar is intended
to provide the commander of a small
ground force (a platoon or company)
with an “over the hill or look around
corners” capability within a localised
area of interest (up to 5km).
This type of UAV is particularly
useful for scouting ahead of convoys.
The ship is full size,
the aircraft is not: it’s
the Fire Scout “Vertical
Takeoff and Landing
Tactical Unmanned
Aerial Vehicle” (why
don’t they say helicopter?) made by
Northrop Grumman.
It’s designed to supply
navies with intelligence
and targeting capability
“in littoral battle
space” (ie, close up and
personal without the
person!).
There is no “area of interest” more demanding of prior knowledge than that
bit of road up ahead and just around
the corner. Controlled from the lead
vehicle, it can look at the road ahead,
providing up-to-the minute tactical
information. In this regard, it is vitally
important that the camera system can
discern objects as small as a single
Aeronautical
Systems’ “Altair”,
an unmanned
aircraft developed
in partnership with
NASA for scientific
and commercial
users. It features
large payload
capacity, 52,000ft
ceiling and can stay
airborne for up to
32 hours.
10 Silicon Chip
man in the open or the number of
people in a group.
Avatar is fitted with two video cameras, one under each wing and these
are switchable in flight to provide
look-ahead or lateral views. They
are daylight CCD cameras of varying
focal lengths to provide switchable
wide angle and zoom capability. The
use of a thermal imager has also been
investigated.
If you think the Avatar looks just
like an ordinary electric-powered
model glider then consider the following illustration, involving a small
group of personnel. They could be
military but could just as easily be
emergency services, law enforcement
etc).
The AVATAR UAV is first removed
from its carrying container and put together. This is a simple exercise which
basically requires that the wings and
fuselage are clipped together and the
batteries inserted. The flight path for
reconnaissance is programmed into
the on-board autopilot via a notebook computer, merely by selecting
way-points on a digital map using a
pointer. Altitude is also controlled
by a barometric altimeter through the
autopilot.
Separate search patterns at each
way-point can also be programmed.
The selection of the operator’s position as the final way-point will ensure
that the AVATAR returns on completion of the flight. It is also possible to
program events to occur at each waypoint, such as camera on, camera off,
etc. This assembly and programming
procedure is expected to take no more
than 10 minutes.
Once programming is complete,
the AVATAR is hand-launched. The
flight program then takes over and
Look! Up in the sky: is it a bird? Is it
a plane? Is it a washing machine? No,
it’s a tiny Micro Craft duct-fan micro
UAV which, unlike fixed wing craft,
has the ability to “perch and stare”
with little chance of being seen or
heard, even when directly overhead a
target.
automatically moves the UAV onto
the flight path at the set altitude. Further investigation of objects observed
during flight can be achieved by taking
manual control of the UAV and flying
it via a set of virtual reality goggles.
On completion of any such manual
over-ride, AVATAR can be returned
to autopilot and it will resume the
programmed flight path. Way-points
may also be changed during flight.
Images from AVATAR are currently received on the same notebook
computer while the UAV is within
line of sight. (Codarra are also investigating methods of storing imagery
onboard when beyond line of sight,
and then down-loading later). Images
captured on the notebook computer
are transferred to other command
systems or headquarters via a mobile
telephone or other communications
link, including being published on
the Internet. The actual track flown by
the aircraft is painted onto the moving
map display.
AVATAR is a reusable platform. The
UAV is recovered at the end of the
sortie with a parachute and prepared
for flight with additional batteries and
new flight programming.
The all-up weight of the aircraft is
approximately 3.5kg and wing span
is 2.5 metres. Endurance is approxi-
mately 20 minutes on a standard set
of NiCd batteries and cruise speed is
40 knots.
Flight trials have indicated that the
AVATAR is a very stealthy vehicle,
almost impossible to hear when operating at about 100 metres. The use of
electric propulsion reduces the infrared signature to undetectable levels.
Even when the earlier CX-1 vehicle
was painted in bright colours, visual
detection was very difficult when only
a few hundred metres away.
Launch, recovery and control are
very important considerations for
tactical UAVs which more often than
not operate out of rugged, uncleared
terrain. The Avatar is hand-launched
and the onboard autopilot reduces
flight training to minimum levels.
Landing is usually by parachute while
conventional landings require only
a small clearing for an experienced
operator.
Keep in mind here that the CX-1 is
a very small aeroplane with a small
dia-meter fuselage. One wonders how
the designers have managed to fit this
level of sophistication into such a
small airframe.
Do-it-yourself UAVs
Technology is moving fast and has
now made the small commercial UAV
a definite proposition.
In fact, relatively ordinary model aircraft can now be effectively
converted to UAV operation with a
variety of autonomous flight control
modules, some of which are pictured
in this article.
All of these modules are designed
to interface into a standard model aircraft radio control system: the PDC10
GPS steering unit, the PDC20 altitude
hold and the PDC25 auto-throttle (airspeed) control. Each modular control
unit is designed to plug into a standard
R/C airborne system between the receiver and the servos. A GPS receiver
or GPS module is also required.
PDC10 GPS steering module
The microprocessor-based PDC10
receives data from a handheld GPS receiver and converts it to an R/C servo
position command. Your GPS receiver
performs the navigation calculations
and manages way-points and routes.
Simply connect the handheld’s PC
data cable to the PDC10 and it will
translate the track/bearing error into a
servo position command. The PDC10
also corrects for cross-track error so it
will stay on course for long distance
navigation. It has an enable input for
transparent pass-through control, a
Gain adjustment and an exclusive
PDC TRIM-MATCH feature which
eliminates the need for a servo centre
pot.
So the PDC10 and a handheld
GPS receiver are all that are needed
to steer a boat, ground vehicle or
stable aircraft to a way-point. Add a
wing-leveller and a PDC20 altitude
hold and you have a complete aircraft
control system at a fraction of the
cost of a traditional autopilot. The
PDC10 is designed to be a functional
component of an unmanned guidance
system and its low cost makes it ideal
for expendable UAVs.
To get the modules to automatically
take control when the R/C radio loses
command signal, you need to use an
R/C system such as PCM that comes
with a built-in fail-safe (preset) feature. The PDC modules can also be
used with standard AM or FM (PPM)
R/C radios but to get the units to
enable automatically, you will need
to add a “missing pulse detector”
(P.O.D.) fail-safe accessory. The type
Just some idea of the
information available
back on the ground can
be gleaned from this
screen grab of one of the
UAV control programs
from CDL Systems.
A high-res location
map (linked to GPS),
video image from the
plane with the target
highlighted and complete
flight/status information
about the aircraft itself is
displayed on screen in
real time.
April 2001 11
of encoding (PCM, PPM) is not relevant, only the fact that the
radio has a built-in fail-safe feature.
Altitude & Air speed hold
The PDC20 (Altitude hold) and PDC25 (Airspeed hold) operate
as set and hold units. To
program these units, the
model is flown manually
at the speed and altitude
required and then each
unit is enabled. The current speed and altitude
are then stored in memory
and remain as the default
(fail-safe) settings. To
re-program either speed
or altitude, the appropriate unit is disabled and
the aircraft is flown at the new speed and/or altitude and the
module enabled again. Upon loss of signal, either accidental or
deliberate, the modules will default to the last setting.
These two units can be a boon to pupils and instructors during initial flight training. Pupils have a great deal of difficulty
holding the throttle lever in the mid-range setting and there is
a tendency for the throttle to gradually be pushed to the full
open setting, thus increasing the speed of the model to an uncomfortable level. The PDC25 takes care of this automatically.
Likewise, when teaching the pupil to steer the aircraft, elevator
control can be handed over to the PDC20 which will then hold
the aircraft at a safe altitude. This takes considerable strain off
both the student and the instructor.
Using the PDC10 in conjunction with a GPS receiver, a wing
levelling unit (optical
or gyroscopic), a PDC20
and a PDC25 (optional),
an aircraft can be sent
off on a fully automatically controlled
mission to any point
within range of the
aircraft. Manual control
via the transmitter is only required for take-off and landing. The
transmitter may be switched off for the rest of the flight. Such
a system costs in the order of $1500 - $2000.
The PDC3200 is the command module for a more elaborate
(and expensive, about $10,000) full autopilot system. Inputs
are provided for two rate-based gyros, altimeter and airspeed
sensors, fuel, RPM, battery voltage. Aircraft attitude and all
data inputs are relayed to a computer ground station which
displays the information on a cockpit like screen. GPS waypoints and airdata (speed, altitude) settings may be updated in
flight if required.
This type of system is ideal for extended range missions,
such as aerial photography, fire detection, traffic surveillance
etc. If a video link is mounted in the aircraft, the PDC1200 (or
PDC1200PAL for Australia) is a most effective method of transmitting data back to the ground station.
The PDC1200 is a video overlay unit. In other words it can
overlay text onto the video display as shown in one of the
photos in this article. Here we see Compass Bearing, Airspeed,
Altitude, Time, Date and Position overlaid.
As you can see, automatic flight systems make possible projects that were only dreamed about several years ago.
SC
12 Silicon Chip
All the information a pilot
would normally read from his
instruments can be read from
the ground. The inset at right
shows the same information
overlaid onto a pilots-eye
view via an on-board camera.
Entering “waypoints” or locations over which the
aircraft must travel is as simple as entering their
latitude, longitude, altitude and time. These are then
referenced against an on-board GPS receiver.
Likewise, the information required by the aircraft in
“autopilot” mode is simply entered – the plane will
then obey these commands until instructed otherwise.
SILICON
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REVIEW: Thomson DTI352TH Digital Set Top Box
Digital TV in Australia:
the picture so far!
Digital TV broadcasts began in Australia in
January this year in a less than auspicious
beginning. Now set top converters from
Thomson are available in the stores and are
beginning to trickle out to customers. We
decided to take a look at how it’s going.
By LEO SIMPSON
As a first step, we obtained a
Thomson DTI352TH Digital Set Top
Box which is currently stocked in the
Dick Smith Electronics PowerHouse
stores. This prosaically named box is
similarly unassuming in appearance,
considering that it houses state-of-theart technology. It has a charcoal finish
and measures 368mm wide, 70mm
high and 225mm deep.
Inside, it has a large double-sided
PC board with lots of inscrutable LSI
and surface mount chips. On the front
panel, there is dark window for the remote control and a few buttons which
let you access most of the functions
via menus shown on the TV or video
monitor’s screen.
On the rear panel, there are input
and output sockets for the antenna,
two RCA sockets for the left and right
audio outputs and two SCART sockets to allow connection to a VCR and
TV/monitor. The accessories include
a SCART to SCART cable and two
SCART to three RCA sockets for the
VCR and TV connections.
In my situation, connection was
easy since I have a Philips stereo TV
with a SCART socket and I used one
of SCART adaptor cables to connect
the VCR. Also on the rear panel is a
2-pin 240VAC mains socket (the box
is double-insulated) and an RS-232
socket. The RS232 socket does not get
a mention in the instruction manual
and so we assume it is used by the
manufacturer to set up the parameters
for different countries.
The 20-page manual is quite brief
The Thomson DTI352TH Digital Set Top
Box comes complete with an IR remote
control and all connecting cables. The
setup is easy, although it does take some
time to initially scan in all the stations.
14 Silicon Chip
These two pictures dramatically demonstrate the improvement in the author’s SBS reception via the Thomson Set Top
Box. The SBS off-air analog signal shown at left is noisy, with no colour, while the digital signal has full colour and is as
clean as a whistle. A set top box is very effective when it comes to cleaning up off-air signals in difficult reception areas.
but an Australian produced single-page instruction sheet contains
enough info to get you started. Basically you connect all the cables, turn it on
and press the remote control buttons
to bring up a number of menus and
then you click down them as instructed. Once you have gone through the
initial setup the on-screen menus are
more-or-less self-explanatory.
Setting up
The setup procedure does take quite
a long time although you can read a
book or have a cup of coffee (or both)
while the machine goes through the
full VHF & UHF tuning range (from
45MHz to 820MHz) and verifying
the existence of digital services. The
process seems to take forever but is
around 30 minutes or so.
In my case, the Thomson box announced that 19 services had been
found and installed: one from the
Seven Network, four from the Nine
Network, six from the Ten Network,
three from ABC TV and five from SBS.
Bewdy mate! All these extra channels
to watch!
From then on you can decide
whether you want to watch the TV
broadcasts in wide-screen (16:9),
letter-box or 4:3 Pan & Scan. My TV
is a not a wide-screen model so that
rules out the first option and I am not
keen on letter-box mode either so I did
most of my watching in 4:3 pan and
scan. Can you pan & scan? I couldn’t
so that feature may not yet be enabled.
The remote control is quite good
and it allows you to control the volume as well as channel selection.
Other buttons allow you to bring
up various on-screen menus which,
among other things, allow you to
display channel and program lists (if
available for that particular channel)
and even to lock out individual channels (eg, if you don’t want the kids to
watch something).
Reception quality
I had a particular interest in reviewing this set top box because my TV
reception is quite variable, depending
on which set of broadcast transmitters
I use. In my exposed position high
above one of Sydney’s’ northern
beaches I can receive signals from the
main broadcast antennas clustered
around Gore Hill or I have a choice
of UHF translators at North Head or
in Bouddi National Park.
However, I particularly wanted to
check the TV reception from the main
broadcast towers in Sydney. Those
signals are received by a combination
VHF/UHF yagi antenna but we do not
have line-of-sight reception. Consequently, while the VHF signals are
quite strong they are subject to varying
degrees of ghosting, particularly on
ABC channel 2. Moreover, channel 2
is subject to varying amounts of local
interference, some mains-borne due
to motors and power tools and some
due to unidentified RF sources.
Much worse is the UHF reception
from SBS, which is weaker since the
beginning of DTV. In fact, with the
antenna signal fed direct to my TV,
This view shows
the on-screen
menu that comes
up when you go to
another channel.
This information
typically includes
the name of the
current program
and by pressing
the right arrow on
the remote, you
can also find out
what’s on next.
The yellow button
brings up a list for
that channel.
April 2001 15
REVIEW: Thomson DTI352TH Digital Set Top Box
A digital set top box is very effective when it comes to eliminating ghosts, as these two shots from Ch10 demonstrate.
The picture at left is the analog off-air signal, which shows obvious ghosting and some noise due to RF interference. By
contrast, the digital signal at right is ghost and noise-free.
the reception is so noisy that there
is no colour. Feeding it via the VCR
and then into the TV improves it to
the point where colour is present but
it is still noisy. So I thought that these
signals would be a good test. And
they were.
In any case, while digital broadcasts
are planned from most, if not all, UHF
translators, they have yet to be announced, let alone start. So the main
VHF broadcasts plus SBS it had to be.
Exorcising ghosts
In fact, all the Sydney channels
including SBS were received completely noise-free and ghost-free via
the Thomson set-top box; clean as a
whistle. So effective is DTV in this
respect that it must be regarded as
a very good cost-effective option
for those whose reception is weak
or plagued with ghosts. The set top
box is likely to be cheaper and much
more effective than a major antenna
installation and you get the other
benefits of DTV as they are introduced.
The accompanying photos show the
dramatic improvement on SBS – it
was very noisy on the analog signal
and clean as a whistle on the digital.
Of course, Pay TV would be another
option for those who have ghost-ridden or weak reception. However my
experience shows that the free-to-air
stations are OK via Pay TV (Optus or
Foxtel) but still not first class – low
level ghosting is often still present!
In other respects though, the picture
quality was a little disappointing. It is
still not quite equivalent to a first-class
off-air broadcast or to a good DVD.
There is not quite enough definition
or contrast – the pictures seemed a
Sydney Area Digital Broadcasts
Identifier
Channel & Middle Frequency Transmitter Location Start Date
Digital 7 VHF6 – 177.5MHz Artarmon 1/1/01
Digital 9 VHF8 - 191.625MHz Willoughby 1/1/01
Digital 10 VHF11 – 219.5MHz Artarmon 1/1/01
Digital ABC VHF12 – 226.5MHz Gore Hill 1/1/01
Digital SBS UHF34 – 571.5MHz Gore Hill 1/1/01
This panel shows the transmitter frequencies and locations for the Sydney area. This
information can be seen for all areas in Australia by going to the website www.dba.
org.au/reception/ This site also gives some program information. More information is
available on the ABA site at www.aba.gov.au/what/digital/technical although it does
appear that it has not been updated recently. Note that the new digital transmitters are
in the VHF band, channels 6, 8, 11 & 12. So what happened about the plan to move all
stations into the UHF band?
16 Silicon Chip
little washed out to me. The exception
was ABC TV where the digital picture
was clearly very good – almost to DVD
standard.
It is also apparent that the compression techniques do lead to some
funny picture anomalies whereby the
main image sometimes seems to lose
definition when there is rapid motion
involved and also there are occasionally bits of the picture out of place.
Both Channel 10 and SBS had
some experimental HDTV broadcast
signals on one of their channels and
these were shown as out of sequence
frames – quite odd to watch as it was
accompanied by chopped sound as
well. Of course, there is no way of
watching HDTV signals at present
since there are no HDTV monitors or
receivers available.
Interestingly, SBS also had two foreign language radio broadcasts.
Summing up
So far then, there is not a lot to
excite as far as digital TV broadcasts
are concerned. The Thomson Digital
Set Top Box certainly works well and
as noted above, if you are in a weak
reception area, it may be a very effective alternative to a bigger antenna
installation. It also cures ghosting
completely.
If you want more information and a
demonstration of the Thomson Digital
Set Top Box, go to any of the Dick Smith
Electronics PowerHouse stores. They
SC
can supply the unit at $698.00.
DON’T
UTER
COMP
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’BUS!
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09
You can buy excellent – and reasonably cheap – hand-held
GPS units these days. So why would you want to add GPS
to a PC? The applications, as they say in the classics, are
limited only by your imagination!
M
ost people are familiar with
GPS: the Global Positioning System run by the United States Government. It allows a
GPS receiver to locate its position
anywhere on the planet by analysing
signals received from a series of orbiting satellites. (For a more detailed
explanation of GPS, see the separate
panel in this article).
Quite a number of hand-held receivers are available at reasonable
prices. These show your position as
a latitude and longitude on an LCD
readout. They’re ideal for bushwalkers, hikers, etc – and fishermen love
them because they can get back to that
secret spot – exactly!
Some of the higher end models
allow the position to be displayed
on a map along with other numerous
features.
But what if you’d like to interface
a GPS directly to your PC or laptop?
Most of the cheaper hand-held units
don’t support an external interface at
all – or if they do, it is an expensive
option.
There is also the question of battery
life (which is normally quite short anyway). If you’d like extended logging of
data, you’re up for yet another add-on
for external power, not to mention an
external antenna if it’s not convenient
to mount the entire unit in a spot that
gives good coverage.
As you can imagine the task of tracking and analysing signals received
from the up-to-12 satellites that can
be in view at a single time is quite a
complex task.
Fortunately quite a number of
OEM (original equipment manufacturer) GPS modules are available that
perform most of the real work and
interfacing one of these modules to a
By PETER JOHNSON
18 Silicon Chip
PC or other serial device is quite easy.
This article describes constructing
such a unit at a cost considerably less
than using a hand-held unit and gives
some pointers on getting some usable
data out of the GPS module once it’s
built.
Why do it?
Linking a GPS unit to a personal
computer is very much the doorway
to countless other applications.
We are not even going to try to list
those applications but anyone who
has ever needed to know where something/someone was at any particular
time, where it/they went from there,
how long it took it/them to get there
and so on . . . they are the types of applications which immediately spring
to mind.
Having a GPS unit in your hand
will tell you where you are (it’s great
The GPS interface sitting on
the keyboard of a notebook PC.
It’s actually upside down so
you can see the GPS module
itself (right side of board). The
active antenna lead connects
on the right side, while RS232
data goes off to a suitable COM
port via the socket on the left.
if you’re lost!). Feeding that data into
a PC then allows it to become really
useful!
Still not convinced? OK, here’s one
application: rally driving. The GPS
unit would know exactly where the
vehicle is and, with the right software,
a notebook PC could “tell” the driver
(ie, in actual speech), what grade corner is coming up, what direction it
takes, obstacles en route, etc. It would
be far more accurate than any human
navigator and wouldn’t make “ouch”
mistakes!
Another? How about delivery drivers, with all “drops” preprogrammed
in to the notebook PC?
Circuit description
The circuit (Fig.1) is quite straightforward as the GPS module undertakes
most of the “real work”. All we require
to interface it is a suitable power supply and a circuit to convert the TTL
serial levels used by the board to the
RS-232 levels used by a PC.
REG1 is a LM-2940CT-5 linear regular used in a standard configuration to
provide the +5V required by the GPS
module and active GPS antenna. Note
that the GPS module consumes around
250mA of current when in operation
so if the unit is to be operated from an
input voltage much above the 6V recommended a heatsink will be required
to dissipate the heat.
IC1, a MAX232, performs conversion from the TTL levels used by the
GPS module to RS-232 levels for the
external interface.
As well as containing a DC-DC converter to increase the voltage levels, the
MAX232 also provides 15kV of ESD
(electrostatic discharge) protection on
the RS-232 interface to provide some
Table 1 – Laipac TF10 GPS Receiver Module Connections
Pin
Function
1 +5V DC Active antenna power
2 +5V DC Power input
3 Battery backup power
4 +3.3V DC Power input
5 Push-button reset, active low
6 Reserved
7 Reserved
8 Reserved
9 Reserved
10 Ground
Pin
Function
11 Host serial data output A
12 Host serial data input A
13 Ground
14 Aux serial data output B
15 Aux serial data input B (DGPS)
16 Ground
17 Reserved
18 Ground
19 1 PPS time mark
20 Reserved
April 2001 19
Fig.1: the interface consists mainly of the MAX-232 RS-232 level converter and
a few power supply components. Battery backup is optional, especially if the
unit is to be continuously powered.
level of protection to the expensive
GPS module.
The GPS module itself plugs into
connector J2 and performs forms the
“brains” of the project. The board
contains the RF front-end to receive
the 1.575GHz signal from the GPS
satellites and an on-board RISC processor running at around 50MIPS to
calculate time differences between
the received satellite signals and
triangulate this into the latitude,
longitude and altitude of the receiver.
The position information and a
very accurate time (each satellite
contains four atomic clocks) are
available through the serial port.
The clock is also available as a
series of 100ms TTL pulses at pin
19 with the time reference being the
negative edge. The time is accurate
to UTC within ±1µs.
parity. Pin-outs for the module are
shown in Table 1.
Configuration commands may also
be sent to the GPS module through
pin 12, the host serial data input,
although for most applications
configuring the GPS module is not
necessary as the default power-on
“command set” instructs the GPS to
send all the information necessary.
Astute readers will pick up that
several connections on the PC board
have been made to the reserved pins
on the module. Why?
While the recommended module is
the Laipac TF10 there is somewhat
of an industry standard known as
being “Rockwell Compatible” and
these modules have similar pin configurations.
This design is capable of also
working with most of these modules,
although because of the large number of variants it is recommended
you carefully check the data sheets
before using a different module with
this project.
For the same reason the project
uses a double-sided PC board when
single sided could have been used
–some modules have the mounting
connector reversed and require
mounting on the top side of the PC
board rather than the bottom.
While modules with the connector
pointing towards the bottom of the
module are probably the most popular, modules with the connector
pointing to towards the component
side are quite popular with some
portable equipment manufacturers
The GPS module
The processed data is available
on pin 11 of the module and is sent
as NMEA sentences (see below) at
4800bps with 8 data bits and no
20 Silicon Chip
Fig.2: the component overlay of the double-sided PC board, from the component side. The blue tracks are on the component side. This board is more
complicated than it needs to be to allow alternate GPS modules to be fitted.
Parts list
Looking straight down on the “normal” component side of this double-sided PC
board: there’s not much to solder here so you shouldn’t have any problems. . .
because they make the design slightly
more compact.
Construction
Mount the TF10 module on the
bottom of the PC board!
I hope that’s got your attention but
if you’re an advanced constructor
you probably often skip the assembly
instructions. It is the only assembly
point that may be different to what
you expect looking at the component
overlay (Fig.2).
As noted the PC board may be used
with a variety of GPS modules, but
the TF10 module supplied with the
kit must be mounted so that the socket points towards the solder layer of
the board, or back the front to what
would normally be expected.
With a TF10 module you may like
to consider using a socket for IC2,
but with some other modules that
mount on top of the PC board that
may not leave enough clearance, so
check the physical requirements of
the particular module first.
Other than that normal construction methods apply. It will be easiest
to start with the 20-pin GPS connector first, followed by the low-profile
passive components such as the
diode and five tantalums. Follow
this with the voltage regulator, D-9
connector, MAX232 IC and finally
the 1000µF electrolytic capacitor.
The TF10 module may secured
to the board using nylon spacers
of 6mm length and 6mm diameter,
along with four 15 x 3mm steel
screws. It is recommended however
that the GPS board not be inserted
until the testing procedure below
has been followed.
Testing and final assembly
For initial testing leave the GPS
board disconnected and apply 6-9V
1 PC board, 108 x 80mm, double
sided, code RCS PJGPS2K1
1 Laipac TF10 GPS module,
SMA right angle, Type 4 OEM
connector
1 20-pin (2x10) female straight
header socket, 2mm centres
1 D-9 female connector, rightangle PC board mounting
1 3-way screw terminal, PC
board mounting
1 TO220 mounting kit
1 3mm screw, 10mm long
4 3mm screws, 16mm long
5 3mm nuts
4 6mm Nylon spacers, 6mm long
4 PC board Nylon supports,
20mm long
Semiconductors
1 LM2940T-5 low dropout
regulator (REG1)
1 Maxim MAX232N RS-232 level
converter (IC1)
1 1N4004 diode (D1)
Capacitors
1 1000µF 16VW electrolytic (C1)
1 0.22µF 10VW tantalum (C2)
4 1µF 16VW tantalum (C3-6)
. . . and there’s even less on the “underside” of the board – just the GPS module
which plugs into the socket you previously soldered underneath.
April 2001 21
Table 2 – Example data received from GPS module
$GPRMC,040055.999,A,4250.5522,S,14718.4910,E,0.08,143.68,060101,,*11
$GPGGA,040055.999,4250.5522,S,14718.4910,E,1,08,1.3,58.9,M,,,,0000*25
$GPGLL,4250.5522,S,14718.4910,E,040055.999,A*20
$GPGSA,A,3,21,29,15,14,25,11,03,31,,,,,2.7,1.3,2.3*3B
$GPGSV,3,1,09,29,85,066,47,21,57,118,48,14,52,126,44,15,37,041,47*73
$GPGSV,3,2,09,31,31,278,46,11,30,231,47,03,20,325,48,25,13,010,44*73
$GPGSV,3,3,09,23,12,097,*4C
$GPVTG,143.68,T,,M,0.08,N,0.1,K*61
See Table 3 below for an example of interpreting the “GPRMC” sentence from
the receiver that contains the time and position information. The example data
is as per the first line shown above.
to the power connector. You will notice on the component overlay there
are two power connections, +6V DC
and battery backup.
The battery backup is optional and
may be connected to a 3V battery to
save the GPS almanac while the main
power is off. This allows the unit to
perform a quicker “warm start” when
power is applied because the unit
will have an idea where the satellites
should be.
Battery backup is not necessary
if you plan to have the main power
source available constantly.
Use a multimeter to check that the
voltage between pin 15 (GND) and
pin 16 (Vcc) of IC1 is 5V (±0.25V),
to confirm that the voltage regulator
is operating correctly.
Once this has been confirmed
give the board a quick check for any
shorted tracks, install the GPS module and attempt to use the module as
described below.
If at any stage you’re unsure if the
GPS module is operating correctly
you can perform a “loop-back” test
by removing the GPS module and
inserting a piece of wire between
pins 11 & 12 on the socket.
This will cause data received from
the serial port to be sent back through
the MAX232 chip to the serial port.
You should be able to connect to the
serial port with a communications
program, such as HyperTerminal,
and see that characters typed are
received back.
Characters being echoed back
should cease once the link is removed, otherwise you either have a
short on the PC board or in the serial
cable. This will confirm that the RS232 converter is operating and the
cable is connected to your PC correctly, although it will not help check
22 Silicon Chip
the communications parameters are
set correctly.
The active antenna
The recommended antenna is supplied with a 5m cable, making it more
than long enough to reach, for example,
a vehicle roof.
Speaking of that, best performance
will be achieved if the antenna is
mounted on a horizontal metal surface (such as a vehicle roof) to act as a
ground plane. In fact, the antenna has
a magnetic base to make mounting on
a vehicle very easy.
Table 3 - Interpreting the GPRMC sentence
DATA
ELEMENT
DESCRIPTION
$GPRMC
Defines this record as “recommended minimum GPS data”.
040055.999
UTC time in format hhmmss.sss.
The example record was received at 04:00:55 UTC (+99ms).
A
“A” indicates valid position calculated,
“V” indicates invalid position.
4250.5522
Latitude in format ddmm.mmmm.
To convert to the more common degrees, minutes
seconds (°, ', ") format multiply the decimal part
(0.5522) by 60 to get the seconds component.
The example is 42°, 50', 33".
S
S indicates south of the equator; N is north of the equator.
14718.4910
Longitude in format dddmm.mmmm.
Convert as for latitude giving 147°, 18' 29".
E
E indicates east of the meridian, W indicates west.
0.08 Speed over ground in knots.
Multiply by 1.852 to get kilometres per hour.
143.68 Course over ground in degrees.
Only accurate when the receiver is moving so bearing
can be calculated from previous position.
060101
UTC date in format DDMMYY,
The example is 6-Jan-2001.
(empty)
Magnetic variation.
Not provided by TF10.
*11
Checksum of the message in hexadecimal.
It is the 8-bit exclusive-OR of all characters between
the “$” and “*” delimiters.
CR/LF Line is terminated with a carriage return/line feed
combination.
Table 4 - Free/shareware
GPS software on the Internet
commlinx.com.au/gps_diag.htm
Name: GPSDiag
Software written by the author
using Borland Delphi that shows
position information received
from the module along with other
information such as speed, altitude, satellite positions and signal
strength. It also displays the raw
data received and is mainly intended as a diagnostic tool to get started.
iliketheinternet.com/gps.html
Name: NMEAgent
Above is the recommended active GPS antenna, available from CommLink
Solutions. Inset at right is the antenna from the opposite side.
If you cannot mount it on a ground
plane you will probably still get adequate signal but it will take longer to
initialise and the chances of errors in
the data are higher.
Regardless of whether it is moun-ted
on a ground plane or not, the antenna
needs to be able to “see” a significant
proportion of the sky with minimal
obstruction from buildings, etc – if it
cannot see the sky, it cannot see the
satellites which it needs to receive
data from.
As a rule of thumb, for best performance at least a third of the sky should
be visible from the location you mount
the antenna. That’s not to say it won’t
work indoors – it possibly will, as long
as you don’t have a metal roof or metallised insulation blocking the incoming
signals.
And note that if you move the
antenna from one place to another
without it being turned on, it may take
a few minutes to store a new almanac
and therefore allow valid data to be
received. During this time you will
receive only a series of zeros for latitude
and longitude.
Connecting to the computer
The female D-9 connector on the
board is configured as a DTE (data terminal equipment). This means the unit can
be connected directly to the serial port
on a PC with a straight-through cable.
Operation of the board with a modem
will require a male-male null modem
cable.
Data is sent at 4800bps with 8 data
bits and no parity and can be received
with any terminal emulator program
such as HyperTerminal supplied with
Windows.
Once the board is connected, powered up and the COM port selected you
should see data being received. For a
while it looks like gobbledegook then,
as the antenna almanac builds, invalid
data (0’s for latitude and longitude)
Screen grab from the
author’s “GPSDiag”
software showing data
coming in from eleven
satellites but only
nine are used (data
quality of others is too
low). As the module
needs only three
data for an initial fix
and one thereafter,
the positional data
(151°18'13.938" E,
33°40'28.56" S) and
other information
here would be
regarded as extremely
accurate.
Somewhat similar to the above
but also allows gathering and averaging of positions over a long period
to obtain a very accurate position
of a fixed location.
maptrax.com.au/freestuff/
Name: Trax 2.2
Australian-produced GPS mapping software that is easy to use
and provides a map of Australia
as part of the installation. The
map provided doesn’t contain a lot
of detail but more detailed maps
may be purchased. The software
is fairly limited but it is an ideal
starting point, being very easy to
install and use.
gpsu.co.uk/index.html
Name: GPS Utility
When you want to get into the
real stuff and start plotting your
positions on a map, this seems to be
the best package around. The free
download has some limitations but
at $US40 for the registered version
it is excellent value for money and
this package is much easier to setup and use than others that provide
as many features. It also works with
a wide variety of maps and you can
“register” your own bitmap, TIF and
JPEG files by providing the known
latitude and longitude of a few
points on the map.
diku.dk/users/elgaard/eps/index.html
Name: EPS – The Elgaard
Positioning System
A Java-based GPS and mapping
system. For those into Java this will
provide an excellent starting point
for other projects but probably won’t
be easy to follow for Java novices.
April 2001 23
These two screen grabs are from the “TRAX 2.2”
software (see overleaf). First screen actually
shows the whole of Australia with Sydney
targeted as our location (gee, just as well it
got that right!). The black crosshairs and red
concentric circles mark our position, while
the blue arrow shows our “course” (obviously
invalid ’cos our office isn’t moving – we hope!)
The second screen shows the only level of zoom
possible with this demo software (yep, we’re
still in Sydney) but if we wanted purchased
more maps, it could go down to street level. The
camera images on the map below, by the way,
show red light and fixed speed camera locations
– your PC can even give you a voice warning as
you approach these when mobile!
and finally, after perhaps a minute or
so, (maybe more if it the first time the
unit has been turned on) data that looks
something similar to that in Table 2 (and
the screen grab overleaf).
The NMEA standard
Confused? Those familiar with GPS
will immediately recognise the data in
Table 2 as NMEA sentences.
This is the standard for GPS communications devised by the National
Marine Electronics Association and is
the universal standard describing how
GPS devices should send data to a host,
such as your PC.
The complete NMEA specification
actually covers quite a range of marine
related devices and as the document is
copyright it must be purchased from
the NMEA.
Fortunately many freely available
sources describe the sentences that
relate to GPS and such information is
widely available on the Internet.
Try using your favourite Internet
search page for the terms “NMEA” and
“GPS” or alternatively the Internet site
http://commlinx.com.au/NMEA_GPS.
htm contains a good overview and
examples of the sentences you’ll most
likely want to interpret.
Those who don’t feel confident reading the NMEA specification and writing
code to communicate with the module
needn’t feel intimidated. The ’net provides a plentiful source of “ready-to-go”
solutions for GPS.
A few pointers to get you started are
shown in Table 4 and in the references.
24 Silicon Chip
References
The NMEA 0183 Standard for Interfacing Marine Electronics Devices.
Published by NMEA, PO Box 3435,
New Bern, NC 28564-3435, USA.
http://www.nmea.org
TF10 Reference Guide. Available
from Laipac Technology Inc, 105
West Beaver Creek Road Unit 207,
Richmond Hill, Ontario L4B 1C6,
Canada. http://www.laipac.com
Peter Bennett’s GPS and NMEA Site.
http://www.vancouver-webpages.
com/peter/
Wheredyageddit?
CommLinx Solutions is the Australian distributor for Laipac GPS & Telephony products. The TF10 OEM GPS module is priced at $176 including GST. A
suitable active GPS antenna with 2-metre lead and SMA connector is $49.95
including GST. A complete kit of components (not including antenna) is available
for $247.50 including GST. See http://commlinx.com.au/products.htm for
more details, fax orders to (03) 6273-5227 or write to CommLinx Solutions, 9
Wattle Avenue, Lutana, Tas, 7009.
The 20-pin OEM connector is also available from CommLinx Solutions for
$5.00 including GST or can be obtained from Farnell electronics, part number
511407. Farnell orders can be placed at http://www.farnell.com.au or by
calling 1300 361 005.
The PC board is produced by RCS Radio and is available as PCB 4981s.
All other components are available from retail electronics distributors.
Global Positioning System
L
ike many of today’s technology breakthroughs,
GPS was originally a military system. Initially four
NAVSTAR satellites, the first launched in 1978, formed
the backbone of the system. As satellites go, they aren’t
very big: about 1.5m wide and 5m long. In orbit (17,450km
out), they weigh only 850kg.
Each satellite contains four extremely accurate atomic
clocks (one second in three million years!). This time information and satellite identification is transmitted on two
L-band carriers around 1.575GHz.
Today there are 24 of these satellites which provide
coverage to every point on the planet. At least three satellites would normally be “visible” from anywhere; more
important areas have up to twelve satellites available from
featureless desert and often in blinding sandstorms. In fact,
which to obtain data.
GPS has been credited with having a decisive role in the
Because the exact position of each satellite is known UN forces’ success.
at any instant in time, a GPS receiver on the ground (or
Most of today’s GPS receivers require an initial “fix” from
in the air, or at sea) can work out precisely how far away
no more than three satellites to establish their position – the
that satellite is by comparing the time-stamped transmitted
Laipac TF10 module used in this project is one such device.
signal to the time it actually received that signal.
Once the signal is received and position determined, it can
Doing the same thing with the signal from a second
keep accurate readings using only one satellite. Therefore
satellite enables the GPS receiver to determine its position
it is ideal in very poor signal areas.
between the two. Adding a third signal enables a location
It can take almost a minute to receive and analyse
to be established; ie, a three-dimensional “fix”.
enough signals to determine position from a “cold start”.
And adding a fourth signal (or more) enables errors to Once the receiver knows where it is, a “hot start” gives a
be virtually eliminated, giving even more accuracy.
position in about eight seconds. While operating,
Design accuracy is within 30 metres of true pothe information is updated about every 100ms.
sition. Until last year, accuracy for “normal” users
The output from the module is data in the
was only 100m because of “selective availability”
form of NMEA-0183 sentences. NMEA
or SA errors, deliberately introduced into the
stands for the National Marine Electronsystem to make it more difficult for non-friendly
ics Association and has become the
armed forces to use.
standard for all GPS data output.
But former US President ClinAn NMEA sentence contains an
ton ordered SA be removed
address field, a data field and a
on 1st May 2000, to allow
checksum.
all users access to the miliWithin the data field can be
tary-precision signal.
such information as latitude
Achieved accuracy is usuand longitude, north or south of
ally better than 30m – many
equator, east or west of 0° meridvehicle identification and
ian, speed over ground in knots,
tracking systems claim to be
course over ground in degrees
Basic Positioning (simplified to one plane only):
able to show on which side of
true, the date and time, and whethif the GPS receiver (at point A) knows it is a
a road a vehicle is travelling
certain time away from the red satellite, it must er the data is vaild or not.
or parked – an accuracy of
By the way, the reason that
be somewhere on the red circle. Similarly, if
at least 10m or even better.
the exact positions of the GPS
it also knows it is a certain time away from
That’s not too bad from
satellites is always known is that
the blue satellite, it can only be where the red
and blue circles intersect (points A & C). If a
17,450km away!
they themselves use signals from
third (green) satellite is added, it can only be at the other satellites to exactly deThe GPS system is fairly
point A. Once it knows it is at point A, even if
unaffected by weather; rain
termine their own position.
the GPS receiver temporarily loses data from
and cloud generally have
And it’s not only the US which
one or two satellites it knows it cannot be at
little impact but wet foliage
has GPS satellites – in 1982,
points B, C or D so it takes its data from one
can cause problems. During
the Russians launched their own
satellite and works with that data until another
the “Desert Storm” war in the
system called GLONASS. Some
comes into view. In the real GPS world, all of
Middle East ten years ago,
newer
GPS receivers can operthe circles are actually spheres, so the system
GPS was used extensively to
ate using both NAVSTAR and
operates in all three dimensions and can
SC
obtain positions in completely
GLONASS.
therefore give height.
April 2001 25
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
By JIM ROWE
Dr Video
An Easy-To-Build Video Stabiliser
Do the pictures on your TV or video projector
jitter and jump around when you’re trying to
watch a movie on VHS or DVD? This is usually
caused by the hidden pulses that are added to
a lot of pre-recorded video software, to prevent
illicit copying. Here’s a low cost circuit that
removes most of these nasties, cleaning up the
video for more stable viewing.
30 Silicon
iliconCChip
hip
Y
OU’RE PROBABLY AWARE that nowadays a lot
of pre-recorded video software is “copy protected”, to stop people from making their own
pirate copies. In principle that’s fair enough, too – having
spent millions of bucks making a movie, the producers
are entitled to get a fair return on their investment.
What complicates the situation is that the system that’s
used to prevent copying involves adding extra “dancing pulses” to the normal video signal. Unfortunately,
this can stop quite a few TV sets and projectors from
displaying a steady picture during legitimate viewing.
In particular, the extra pulses can cause problems
with large-screen TVs that display the picture at 100
fields per second (100Hz) to reduce flicker and also
with projectors that perform line and pixel doubling to
improve picture clarity. They can cause problems with
older conventional TV sets, too.
If you have one of these sets or projectors, often the
only way to get a steady picture is to somehow remove
those extra pulses. The idea is to “clean up” the video
and let the set’s sync circuitry do its normal job without
interference. And that’s exactly what this little project
is designed to do.
Note that once the offending pulses are removed, it
may also become possible to record the video. However, we want to stress that this project is NOT designed
to allow recording – it’s intended purely to allow you
to achieve stable and steady pictures for viewing. It is
illegal to record copyright material and there are heavy
penalties for doing this. We must therefore warn you
specifically against using the project to do so.
As well as removing most of the copy protection pulses, Dr Video also allows you to apply a small amount
of high-frequency boost to the video, to “sharpen” the
picture a little when you’re watching movies on older
VHS tapes (which are often a little “soft”). However,
you can switch off this sharpening when it’s not needed
– when you’re watching DVDs, for example (these are
usually quite sharp enough already).
Dr Video is housed in a compact low-profile instrument box, and runs from a nominal 12V DC source –
such as a battery or plugpack. You should also be able
to build it for considerably less than other stabilisers.
Fig.1: this scope shot shows the extra sync & “dancing”
pulses (righthand end of top trace) that are added following
the vertical sync block. These pulses constantly change
amplitude.
Fig.2: a close-up of the “fake” sync and dancing pulses on
one of the lines in the vertical blanking interval.
How it works
Before we look at the circuit diagram, it may help if I
explain a little about the copy protection pulses we’re
trying to remove. By the way, we’re talking here about
the pulses added to video signals in the Macrovision
copy protection system, as this is the one most commonly used.
To thwart illicit recording, the Macrovision system
adds three main sets of pulses to the video signal – two
of them essentially combined. First, there’s the “dancing” pulses, which are added to as many as 14 of the
normally “black” lines which follow the vertical sync
pulse “block”, in the vertical blanking interval (VBI).
This is a group of lines that correspond to the vertical
retrace time, when the scanning electron beam in the
picture tube is being returned from the bottom of the
screen back to the top, to begin the next video field.
To each of these 14 or so VBI lines, the Macrovision
system adds as many as seven extra “fake” horizontal
Fig.3: the end of field (EOF) pulses consist of a series of
narrow positive pulses that are added to the lines at the very
bottom of the picture.
April 2001 31
32 Silicon Chip
Fig.4 (left): the circuit diagram for the
Dr Video. Sync separator IC4 and its
associated circuits generate gating
signals which operate CMOS switches
IC2c and IC2d, to strip off any extra
sync and dancing pulses present on
the vertical blanking interval lines.
sync pulses, each of which is immediately followed by a short “fake
video bar” pulse – which can have an
amplitude anywhere between black
and peak white. And it’s these “fake
video bar” pulses which slowly vary
up and down in amplitude or “dance”,
usually in two or three groups.
Figs.1 & 2 show the details of this.
The top trace in Fig.1 shows the
groups of pulses on eight lines after
the vertical sync block, while Fig.2 is
a close-up of the pulses on one line.
In theory, these VBI pulses shouldn’t
upset the operation of the sync separator circuit in a TV or projector – but
they are intended to play havoc with
the sync locking servo and recording
level AGC circuitry of a video recorder. In particular, the extra sync pulses
muck up the sync locking, while
the “dancing video bars” fool the
recorder’s AGC circuitry into varying
the recording gain up and down to
compensate. All of which they indeed
do but unfortunately the havoc isn’t
restricted just to VCRs!
The remaining set of pulses that are
added into the video signal are the socalled “EOF” or end-of-field pulses.
These consist of a series of narrow
positive pulses which are added to the
lines at the very bottom of the picture
and are timed to coincide with the colour synchronising “bursts” (ie, they
are inserted just after the horizontal
sync pulses). In effect, these pulses
push the colour bursts for these lines
right up into the peak white region, so
that the black level and colour locking
circuitry of a VCR are again tricked.
Fig.3 shows what the EOF pulses
look like on an oscilloscope.
The EOF pulses are considerably
harder to remove than the fake sync
and dancing-video-bar pulses in the
VBI group. Luckily, though, they don’t
seem to cause nearly as much havoc
with TV sets and projectors as the VBI
pulses. So in the Dr Video project,
we take the same practical approach
adopted in many other video stabilisers: we concentrate on removing the
VBI pulses and allow the relatively
innocuous EOF pulses to remain.
By now, you should have a good
idea as to what we’re trying to achieve
in the Dr Video circuit. Now let’s see
how it’s done.
Circuit details
Fig.4 shows the full circuit of the
Dr Video project. It might look a bit
complex at first glance but it’s really
not as bad as it looks. We’ll describe
it section by section.
The incoming video arrives at
CON1, where we terminate it with
the correct 75Ω load. We then couple
it to the non-inverting input (pin 3)
of IC1, a 5534 op amp used here as a
wideband video input buffer.
The 0.22µF coupling capacitor
removes any DC component in the
incoming video and, together with the
1MΩ resistor and BAW62 diode, forms
a simple “DC restorer”. This clamps
the sync pulse level to about 0.6V
above ground. (D4 and D5 produce a
DC level of 1.2V but this is offset by
a drop of 0.6V in D6).
IC1 is connected as a voltage follower with a gain of one, so a replica of the
incoming video therefore appears at
its output (pin 6). This signal is then
taken in three directions. We’ll look
at two of these shortly but first we’ll
concentrate on the path that leads
April 2001 33
Fig.5: install the parts on the PC board as shown here. Note that some of the
links are quite close to each other so use insulated wire for these. Note that
the ICs don’t all face in the same direction.
down via the 680Ω resistor. As you
can see, this feeds the video signal to
the input of IC4 (via a 0.1µF capacitor.
IC4 is a very handy LM1881 video
sync separator chip. The 680Ω series
resistor and paralleled 470pF and
39pF capacitors to ground form a
low-pass filter, to “lose” the signal’s
colour information (which can disturb
the LM1881’s operation). The 0.1µF
coupling capacitor simply blocks
the DC component, while the 680kΩ
and 0.1µF capacitor from pin 6 of
the LM1881 to ground set the chip’s
internal timing circuitry for accurate
and stable sync separation.
The LM1881 provides a number of
outputs but here we only need two
of them. First, from pin 3, we get a
negative-going vertical sync pulse
about 230µs wide. Second, pin 5 gives
a series of narrow pulses (again negative-going) which correspond to the
video signal’s colour sync bursts – ie,
“burst gating” pulses.
Next, we invert both these pulses
34 Silicon Chip
using IC5e and IC5f, to convert them
into positive-going form. We then pass
them through differentiator circuits, to
obtain narrow negative-going pulses
derived from their trailing edges. For
the vertical sync pulses this is done by
the 390pF capacitor, 10kΩ resistor and
D9, while for the burst gating pulses
it’s done by the 270pF capacitor, 2.2kΩ
resistor and D10.
Each of these narrow pulses is then
used to trigger a simple non-retrigger
able monostable or “one shot” circuit,
to produce longer pulses of carefully
set length. Each one-shot consists of a
flip-flop formed by two cross-coupled
NAND gate elements, plus an RC
timing circuit and a Schmitt inverter.
The one-shot formed by IC6d, IC6a
and IC5a is used to produce a pulse
about 1.1ms long, starting at the end of
the vertical sync pulse from IC4. The
end of this output pulse corresponds
closely with the end of the VBI, so
therefore it “covers” all of the lines
which should ideally be “black” but
can have added Macrovision nasties.
The second one-shot formed by
IC6c, IC6b and IC5b is used to produce
a much shorter pulse, about 50µs long,
starting at the end of each colour burst
gating pulse from IC4. This one-shot’s
output pulse therefore lasts for most
of the “active” part of each horizontal
line, and certainly “covers” that part
of the VBI lines where the extra sync
and “dancing” pulses occur.
As you can see, the output of the
upper one-shot is then gated with an
inverted version of the vertical sync
pulse from IC5e using NAND gate
IC3a – which together with IC5c forms
a positive-logic AND gate. This gating
is done because the LM1881 can itself be disturbed by the Macrovision
pulses, which occasionally cause its
vertical sync pulse output from pin 3
to begin early.
This can in turn cause our one-shot
to trigger early. However, the gating
ensures that if this occurs, the oneshot’s output pulse is “blocked off”
until the end of the vertical sync block.
(We don’t want to change this part of
the video signal, of course).
So the output from IC5c is a pulse
which is “high” for all of the lines
between the end of the vertical sync
pulse and the end of the VBI. And this
is gated with the 50µs pulses from the
lower one-shot using NAND gate IC3b.
This means that the output of IC3b
will go low for the active part of each
line between the end of the vertical
sync pulse and the end of the VBI –
but ONLY for those lines.
We’ll get back to these pulses shortly. For the moment, though, let’s turn
our attention to NAND gate IC3d. As
you can see, one input of this gate is
fed with the positive-going burst gating pulses from IC5f, while the other
input receives a negative-going 50µs
pulse from the output of IC6b, in the
lower one-shot. What’s the idea of
this gating?
Again, it’s needed because of the
way that the LM1881 (IC4) can itself
be upset by the Macrovision pulses. In
this case, “extra” burst gating output
pulses can be produced during the
active part of the VBI lines, at some
points in the “dancing pulses” cycle.
By using IC3d to gate the burst pulses
with the complementary output of the
50µs one-shot, we make sure that these
unwanted extra pulses are “gated out”.
As a result, the output of IC3d only
goes low for the 12µs duration of the
Everything fits on the PC board, so there is no external wiring to the front panel
components or to the sockets on the rear panel.
“real” colour bursts.
IC3d’s output is used to drive the
gate of analog bipolar switch IC2b.
This switch is used as a simple pulse
inverter, with its “output” pin connected to the +5V supply via a 2.2kΩ
resistor. So the output (pin 3) provides
a train of positive-going burst gating
pulses. These in turn are used to
turn on switch IC2a, which therefore
conducts during the colour burst period of every video line. And when
IC2a turns on, it allows the following
0.22µF capacitor to charge via the
2.2kΩ resistor, to the current average
value of the video signal from IC1.
Why on earth is this done? Well,
by convention, the average value of a
video signal during the colour bursts
is used to establish the signal’s black/
blanking level. So by turning IC2a on
only during the burst periods, we ensure that the 0.22µF capacitor charges
to a voltage which corresponds closely
to the video signal’s black level.
The last step
Right, so now we have the 0.22µF
capacitor providing a black level voltage, plus some pulses available from
IC3b which go low only during the
active part of the VBI lines. The last
step in cleaning up the video signal
is to put these pulses to work.
As shown on Fig.4, the pulses from
IC3b are fed directly to the gate of
analog switch IC2c, which is in series
with the “top” video path from IC1. As
a result, IC2c will be turned off during
the active part of the VBI lines but left
on at all other times.
At the same time, IC3c is used to
invert the pulses from IC3b and supply these to the gate of CMOS switch
IC2d – which is connected between
the output of IC2c and the 0.22µF
capacitor. This means that when IC2c
is turned off to block the video, during
the active part of the VBI lines, IC2d is
turned on to clamp the video output
to black level.
Still with me? Essentially, all of
the circuitry around IC3, IC4, IC5 and
IC6 acts to produce some fast gating
signals. These signals operate CMOS
switches IC2c and IC2d, to strip off
any extra sync and dancing video
pulses present on the VBI lines and
turn the lines back into nice plain
black. As a result, we get a “cleaned
up” video signal across the 100kΩ
resistor at the output of IC2c and IC2d.
Output amplifier
The circuitry to the right of the
100kΩ resistor is a wideband video
output buffer amplifier, with transistors Q1 and Q2 forming the input stage
and Q3 the output stage. Q4 forms a
constant current load for Q3, to allow
it to drive a relatively low impedance
external load via a 75Ω series or “back
April 2001 35
The rear panel carries two RCA sockets (Video Out & Video In) plus a 2.5mm
DC panel socket for the external plugpack supply.
terminat
ing” resistor. Note that the
reference voltage for the base of Q4
is established by the “power” LED
(LED1), which therefore also acts as a
pseudo-zener reference diode.
The voltage gain of the output
buffer amplifier needs to be 2.0, to
compensate for the loss in the back
terminating resistor. This gain is set
by the two 470Ω resistors, which provide negative feedback to the base of
Q2. However, as you can see, there’s
also a 330Ω resistor, connected via a
47µH RF inductor to one of the poles
of switch S1.
When S1 is switched to the “Sharp
from +5V DC, while the input and
output video amplifiers run from ±5V.
As a result, the power supply is fairly
straightforward, since we can easily
derive these rails from any suitable
source of 10-12V DC.
Diode D1 is connected in series
with the supply input, to protect the
circuit against reverse polarity damage. This then feeds a 1000µF filter
capacitor and a 3-terminal regulator
(REG1), which provides the +5V
supply rail. This rail is filtered using
a 100µF capacitor plus several 0.1µF
bypass capacitors scattered around
the circuit.
The -5V supply rail is produced
using 555 timer IC7. This is used as a
self-oscillating “commutator switch”
en” position, an 82pF capacitor is
connected to the inductor, forming a
series resonant circuit at about 2MHz.
The “Q” is quite low though, because
of the series 330Ω resistor. As a result
we only get a “boost” of about 4dB
– enough to give a useful amount of
sharpening to a “soft” video picture.
The second pole of S1 is used to turn
on a second indicator LED (LED2), to
show when this sharpening is taking
place.
Power supply
The sync separator chip (IC4) and
most of the logic circuitry operates
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
No.
1
1
3
2
4
1
1
2
3
1
2
1
36 Silicon Chip
Value
1MΩ
680kΩ
100kΩ
10kΩ
2.2kΩ
1.5kΩ
1kΩ
680Ω
470Ω
330Ω
75Ω
47Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black green brown
blue grey yellow brown
brown black yellow brown
brown black orange brown
red red red brown
brown green red brown
brown black red brown
blue grey brown brown
yellow violet brown brown
orange orange brown brown
violet green black brown
yellow violet black brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black yellow brown
blue grey black orange brown
brown black black orange brown
brown black black red brown
red red black brown brown
brown green black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
blue grey black black brown
yellow violet black black brown
orange orange black black brown
violet green black gold brown
yellow violet black gold brown
Table 2: Capacitor Codes
Value
IEC Code EIA Code
0.22µF 224 220n
0.1µF 104 100n
.012µF 123 12n
.01µF 103 10n
.0082µF 822 8n2
470pF 471 470p
390pF 391 390p
270pF 271 270p
220pF 221 220p
82pF 82 82p
39pF 39 39p
and drives a “charge pump” rectifier
circuit consisting of D2, D3 and the
two 220µF capacitors. This produces a source of unregulated -10V DC,
which is then passed through 3-terminal regulator REG2 to produce the
-5V rail.
In this case, we can use such a simple charge-pump circuit to generate
the negative rail because the current
needed from it is quite low.
Construction
Building the Dr Video project is
very straightforward since all the
parts are mounted on a PC board
coded 02104011 (117 x 112mm).
This board assembly fits snugly
into a standard low-profile plastic
instrument box measuring 140 x 110
x 35mm.
The front panel is anything but
intimidating. There’s only one control (ie, the Normal/Sharpen switch
S1) plus the Power and Sharpening
indicator LEDs. On the rear panel,
there’s just the video input and output sockets, plus the DC input connector. All these connectors mount
on the PC board, along with S1 and
the two LEDs, so there is no off-board
wiring at all.
Fig.5 shows the assembly details.
There are eight wire links on the
board and it’s probably a good idea to
fit these first. You can use tinned copper wire for many of these, although
I suggest you use insulated wire for
at least one link where there are two
running close together (just to the left
of IC6, for example). This will help
prevent unwanted shorts.
Next, I suggest you mount the DC
input connector and the two video sockets. Note that the holes for
these may need enlarg
ing slightly
with a jeweller’s rat-tail file before
the connector lugs will fit through.
Make sure the connectors are bedded
down squarely against the top of the
board before you solder the lugs to
the board pads.
Switch S1 can also be mounted
at this stage. Push is down squarely
against the board before soldering
its leads and don’t forget the two
“hold down” lugs near the front of
the switch (these lugs stop the switch
from moving when it is operated).
With this done, you can add the
various electronic parts, in the usual
order. Start with the resistors and
small capacitors, then fit the diodes
and electrolytic capacitors – taking
care with their polarity.
The next stage involves fitting
the transistors and ICs, again taking
care with their polarity. As usual,
take steps to minimise the risk of
ESD (electrostatic discharge) damage when handling and fitting the
CMOS devices in particular. Use an
earthed soldering iron and wear a
wrist-grounding strap if you like.
You should also solder the supply
and ground pins of each IC to the
board pads first, before soldering the
remaining pins.
Use a 10mm long M3 machine
screw and nut to secure the positive
regulator (REG1) – this device does
get warm and the screw and nut provide a small amount of heatsinking in
conjunction with the board copper. It
isn’t strictly necessary to do this for
REG2, as this device runs virtually
cold. However, it’s still a good idea
to secure it, just to stop it “flapping
around” and placing strain on the
solder joints.
Finally, fit the two LEDs. Note that
these mount in mirror image fashion,
with the longer anode lead of each
towards S1 in the centre of the board.
They should initially be soldered in
vertically, with the bottom of each
LED about 15mm above the board.
After soldering, each pair of leads
is bent forwards by 90° about 7.5mm
up from the board, so that the LEDs
can be pushed into matching front
panel holes.
Final assembly
The front and rear panels for
this project will be supplied prepunched, with screened lettering.
These panels can now be fitted to
the PC board hardware and the entire
Parts List
1 PC board, code 02104011, 117
x 112mm
1 low-profile plastic instrument
case, 140 x 110 x 35mm
1 miniature DPDT toggle switch,
90° PC-mounting (S1)
2 RCA sockets, 90° PC mounting
1 2.5mm DC connector, 90°
PC-mounting (CON3)
2 M3 x 8mm machine screws,
with M3 nuts
6 small self-tapping screws, 6mm
long
1 47µH RF inductor (L1)
Semiconductors
1 NE5534 op amp (IC1)
1 74HC4066 quad switch (IC2)
2 74HC00 quad NAND gates
(IC3,6)
1 LM1881 video sync separator
(IC4)
1 74HC14 hex Schmitt inverter
(IC5)
1 LM555 timer (IC7)
1 7805 5V regulator (REG1)
1 7905 -5V regulator (REG2)
3 BC548 NPN transistors
(Q1,Q2,Q4)
1 BC640 PNP transistor (Q3)
2 3mm red LEDs (LED1-LED2)
3 1N4001 or 1N4004 power
diodes (D1-D3)
6 1N4148 diodes (D4-5, D7-10)
1 BAW62 fast switching diode
(D6)
Capacitors
1 1000µF 25VW PC electrolytic
2 220µF 25VW PC electrolytic
2 100µF 16VW PC electrolytic
3 2.2µF TAG tantalum
2 0.22µF MKT polyester
10 0.1µF monolithic ceramic
1 .012µF MKT polyester
1 .01µF MKT polyester
1 .0082µF MKT polyester
2 470pF ceramic
1 390pF ceramic
1 270pF ceramic
1 220pF ceramic
1 82pF NP0 ceramic
1 39pF NP0 ceramic
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
1 1MΩ
1 1kΩ
1 680kΩ
2 680Ω
3 100kΩ
3 470Ω
2 10kΩ
1 330Ω
4 2.2kΩ
2 75Ω
1 1.5kΩ
1 47Ω
April 2001 37
assembly installed in the bottom half
of the case. The panels slide into
the moulded case slots, while the
board is secured using 6mm long
self-tapping screws which mate with
matching plastic spigots in the base.
A total of eight 3mm mounting
holes are provided in the board pattern and you can fit screws to all eight
if you wish. It’s a certainly a good
idea to fit the four along the back,
to anchor the board firmly so that it
doesn’t move when plugs are fitted
to or removed from the sockets. On
the other hand, two mounting screws
will be quite sufficient at the front.
Your Dr Video should now be ready
for checkout.
Checkout time
There’s no actual setting-up required for this project. However, it’s
a good idea to check that the power
supply circuits are working correctly
before you fit the top cover and put
it to work.
First of all, try applying 12V DC
to the power input from a battery or
plugpack supply. The Power LED
should glow fairly brightly and the
Sharpening LED should also light
when S1 is switched to the “Sharpen”
position. If one or both LEDs don’t
glow, remove the power immediately
and investigate because you have a
problem.
If neither LED glows, your 12V
DC source may be connected with
reverse polarity so that diode D1 is
preventing any current flow. Reversing the supply connections will fix
this problem.
If only one LED refuses to glow, the
odds are that it’s fitted to the board
the wrong way around. So check
this possibility first and correct the
problem if necessary.
If you need to, the +5V and -5V
supply rails can be checked with
a multimeter. Both rails should be
within a few tens of millivolts of their
nominal values.
If the positive rail is fine but the
negative rail isn’t, look for a fault in
the circuitry around IC7 and REG2.
You may have fitted one of the electrolytic capacitors or diodes D2 &
D3 the wrong way around. Another
possibility is a solder bridge that’s
preventing IC7 from oscillating.
If the LEDs glow as they should
and the two 5V supply rails measure
correctly, your Dr Video is probably
working fine and is ready for business.
As mentioned earlier, there are no
setting-up adjustments, because in
this project we’re relying on close
tolerance resistors and parallel capacitor combinations to ensure that
the only parts of the circuit that are
“critical” function as they should.
We’re confident that this should be
the case with almost any combination
of components.
Problems & cures
There are only two possible problems that we can envisage, neither
of them very likely. One is that if
the timing components attached to
the input (pin 1) of IC5a (in the VBI
one-shot) are all excessively high in
value, you may see a few black lines
at the extreme top of the picture –
and then only with movies in “full
screen” format, as opposed to widescreen/letterbox. If this happens, it
can easily be fixed by replacing the
.0082µF capacitor with one of lower
value (say .0068µF).
The other equally faint possibility
is that if the same component tolerance problem should occur in the
timing circuit for the “burst gate”
one-shot (ie, at the input of IC5b),
the output pulses from this one-shot
might be extended enough so that
switches IC2c and IC2d begin to
damage the horizontal sync pulses –
causing horizontal jitter or tearing.
This is most unlikely to happen but
if it should, the remedy would be to
replace the 220pF capacitor with a
smaller one (ie, 180pF).
One final comment – if you want
to change the amount of high frequency video boosting given by
the “Sharpen” switch, or the actual
peaking frequency, this is easy to do.
The amount of boosting is set by the
series resistor, so varying it up or
down in value from 330Ω will reduce
or increase the boosting respectively.
Similarly, the peaking frequency is
set by the series capacitor, which can
be changed from the current 82pF if
you wish. A smaller value will increase
SC
the frequency and vice-versa.
Where To Buy The Kit
The copyright on this project is
owned by Jaycar who will have
complete kits available shortly
after publication. these kits will
include pre-punched front and rear
panels with screened lettering.
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April 2001 39
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
“OK, you fix it, big shot”
“Two heads are better than one – even if one
is only a sheep’s head.” Or so says the popular
adage. So don’t scorn a second “head” when
the going gets tough. You might be the sheep’s
head.
That preamble was inspired by my
first story this month. It concerns a
Sony KV-T25SZ8 with a BG-1S chassis, which came to me from an agency.
This model is only three years old and
looks brand new except perhaps for
it’s styling – it is black plastic instead
of the current silver look.
The complaint written on the service card said “dead”. Well, it wasn’t;
at least not completely. Switching it
on, the set fired up and with an antenna connected, even gave forth sound
– until it cut out a few seconds later.
40 Silicon Chip
Using the RM870 remote control, it
could be switched on again immediately and the stations selected but it
closed down again shortly afterwards.
By doing this a few times, coaxing the
tube to warm up, I managed to get a
white line at the top of the TV screen
but it still closed down.
I was discussing this with a colleague as we shared a brew of morning
coffee. He reckoned the fault was a
flashover in the picture tube – one of
a batch of tubes used in this model,
and which was supposedly faulty. I
thought otherwise, having had a similar set give the same symptoms. That
set was a KV-G21S1 with the same
chassis, and the cause was the vertical output IC, IC551, and pincushion
control amplifier, IC801.
Well, we argued back and forth but
the set wasn’t being fixed and, as my
coffee was finished, I whipped the
back off and had a poke about. My
friend kept reminding me that this
was a well known fault – but that
didn’t explain the line at the top of
the screen.
I pulled out the file on the BG-1S
chassis to find the circuit for this
model. Unfortunately, I had only the
one for the KV-T25SF8, as well as for
the set I had fixed before. The first
thing I noticed was that the jungle
chip IC300 was now a TDA8375A instead of TDA8366N3D but pin 50 was
still the EHT X-ray protector, which
I unsoldered.
This allowed me to switch the set
on without it closing down – but I
had to keep an eye on it. If something
serious was causing it to close down,
this was now free to vent its wrath on
associated components! On the other
hand, this gave the tube a chance to
warm up properly and I could see that
there was about 100mm of somewhat
distorted scanned raster at the top of
the screen. But there was no sign of
distress – heat, smoke, or whatever
– from the rest of the set. Whatever
was crook wasn’t effecting anything
else at present.
I followed the X-ray protection line
and found that, by desoldering zener
diode D1505 and resoldering pin 50,
the set would remain on but with the
same fault. This suggested that the
fault was in the vertical deflection and
correction circuits.
I measured the main supply
rails to IC551 (LA7830) and IC801
(5PC4558G2-E – surface mount) to
find them spot on at -13V and +15V,
so I confidently ordered these two
devices on spec.
I fitted the parts when they arrived,
one at a time, only to find that they
made no difference.
“I told you so”, my friend said,
when I acquainted him with this
development.
“OK, you fix it, big shot” I retorted.
“Well, all right – let me have a
squiz at it”.
There were a lot of “ers” and “ums”
coming out of him for the next half
hour. That will keep him out of trouble
for a while I thought, while I went on
to the next job.
But give him his due, he solved
the problem in one go – and within
that half-hour – but he did have to
bring in the heavy artillery; ie, the
oscilloscope.
And he now conceded that a flashover seemed unlikely, since the set
continued to function without any
sign of sparking. His first step was to
measure the voltage on all the pins
of the vertical output and pincushion
ICs and he found them to be correct.
So the CRO was brought in. This
revealed that there was a nice clean
vertical sawtooth on pin 46 of the
jungle IC, the vertical positive output,
but nothing so clean was arriving at
IC801 or IC551. Following this path it
appeared to go crook at D315, a 9.1V
zener. Removing this established that
it was leaky. Replacing it fixed the
problem.
I have to admit that the man appears
to be a genius – give him a beer! (Of
course, I had done all the spade work
first. He was just dotting the i’s and
crossing the t’s. Ahem!).
Now, what was that I was saying
about a sheep’s head?
The Sanyo VCR
My next story involves quite a
change of scene. Tony Black came in
looking as white as a sheet. He was
clutching a VCR but somehow I didn’t
think that was the cause. Tony is a
young farmer who lives at the back of
Woop-Woop and drives an extremely
dodgy Kingswood wagon.
“What’s the matter?” I asked. “It’s
those truck drivers,” he finally gasped.
“What about them?” I enquired. “I’ve
just had a whole lot of them monster
me up the highway. I was driving at
110km/h and they were still right on
my rear end all the away”.
I soothed him down and carefully
removed the VCR from his white
knuckles. Obviously, the truckies had
scared him, as they do everybody, and
having come this far, it would have
been a pity to drop the VCR, a Sanyo
VHR-190.
After a suitable interval, I asked
what was wrong with it. As he described it, it died every time a tape
was put into it. I told him to leave it
with me and I would check it out. I
didn’t know what to suggest about the
speeding truckies; his story reminded
me very much of Spielberg’s “Duel”
sequence. A newer, faster car might
be one way but if one is at the speed
limit and the truckies drive well over
the limit, what does one do? Pull over
Items Covered This Month
•
Sony KV-T25SZ8 TV set (BG1S chassis).
•
•
•
Sanyo VHR-190 VCR.
Sony Playstation.
Mitsubishi CT-2804AST (ST) TV
set (ASV664 chassis).
and let them pass, I guess.
Back at the bench, I removed the
covers, and could see his description
of the fault to be quite accurate. This
model has been quite successful and
employs the Sanyo P88 deck but this
unit is getting on a bit now.
I didn’t have the service manual for
this set and was disinclined to buy
one because of its age but the problem
looked to be a power supply fault,
probably due to leaky electros and a
low power rail.
I could see that the loading motor
was working but I made a note that
I should change the belts anyway. I
spoke to Tony about it, emphasising
how old it was and, with new ones
starting at less than $250, it was
hardly worth it. Anyway he started
bleating about needing a new car that
he couldn’t afford and could I please
see what I could do?
How do I get myself into such situations? I had listened to him whinging
about the truckies and had become
distracted.
April 2001 41
Serviceman’s Log – continued
To tackle the power supply, I would
really need a circuit. I could buy one
of course but hopefully I would be
able to beg, borrow, or steal one from
the opposition.
In the meantime, I needed replace
those two belts anyway. The one
underneath the deck was easy but
the top one was difficult, not only
because access is poor but because the
loading gears have to be dismantled
and can easily be reassembled incor
rectly, giving horrible timing problems
and jamming the eject mechanism
completely.
Firstly, the PC boards, which partly
cover the loading motor assembly,
have to be removed. Then, making
sure the deck is in the full unloaded
and ejected mode, you remove three
small screws, release a white plastic
cam and finally remove the squirrel
gears. (It is a good idea to mark these
with a felt tip pen to ensure they are
reassembled in exactly the same position). The next problem is to remove
the belt – to save time, I just cut it. To
fit the new one over the lower pulley
is fiddly and a tight fit. Wetting it with
metho can sometimes make it easier.
When the belt is on, one has to
reassemble the rest in the reverse
order, making sure the ejector hasn’t
moved and is still in its maximum
eject position.
Fortunately, and probably due to experience, everything went well until
I tested it. Initially it wouldn’t work
at all but this was because the belt
was slipping over the metho. When
it evaporated and the belt gripped,
not only did it load and play but also
it performed all its functions without
stopping or turning off.
What a bonus – the power supply
didn’t need attention after all. Presumably, the stretched belt was slipping
and, as a result, the loading sequence
was not being completed within the
required time and the system would
shut down.
When I told Tony, he was delighted and now has a few more pennies
towards a new car.
Sony Playstations
And now a few thoughts on Sony
Playstations. I have had several
through the workshop over the last
couple of years, initially for modifications to play overseas games.
As the supply of chips has dried up
and newer models are now available,
the emphasis has been more in repairing the power supplies, in particular
the SCPH-700Z. More often than not,
the repairs have been straightforward
in this simple switchmode power supply. If fuse F001 is blown, for example,
the problem is normally confined to a
diode in the bridge rectifier; eg, D002
being short circuit. Replacing it with
an 1N4007 usually solves this.
More elaborate failures will sometimes take out the FET. If the power
supply looks otherwise immaculate
Fig.1: the switched mode power supply circuit in the Mitsubishi CT-2804AST. Note the relay-drive line to pin 4 of
connector P E.
42 Silicon Chip
and it won’t go, switch it off and check
for 325V on the main electrolytic. If
the voltage is still there and not decaying rapidly it can be assumed the startup resistor R003 (820kΩ) has gone
high. Make sure that you discharge
the capacitor before replacing R003.
Mitsubishi TV set
Mrs Thompson’s Mitsubishi 1988
CT-2804AST (ST) ASV664 chassis had
ceased to function after a power surge
from a recent storm. Unfortunately,
she didn’t have household contents
insurance and was also an old-age
pensioner. It was my task, therefore,
to resurrect her dead set for as little
as possible. It also had to be done in
the workshop because, when I called,
I had noticed there were a few burnt
patches of components on the separate
power supply board, implying a fairly
extensive failure.
The power supply is a dual one –
there is a main switchmode power
supply providing 115V and 18V, and
a secondary one employing a small
50Hz transformer (T9K1), providing
5V, 30V and 14V rails. The secondary
supply has to operate first in order to
activate a relay which operates from
the 14V rail.
When the relay closes and the set
fires, the relay voltage is supplemented by one from the horizontal output
transformer (pin 4 of connector PE,
which mates with connector PF on
the selector board, and the collector
of the relay-drive transistor, Q702).
But the relay wasn’t working,
simply because there was no 14V
to operate it. In fact, none of these
rails was working. And, in turn, this
was because the primary of mains
transformer T9K1 was open circuit.
This is a small PC-mounted trans
former which, unfortunately, is
no longer available as a spare part.
The secondary supplies a voltage
doubler via R9H1 and C9H1 to
the collector of Q9H1, which is a
voltage regulator delivering 30V.
This secondary winding also
applies 12V to the collector of
Q9H2 via D9H4.
So what was the secondary voltage supposed to be?
It had to be at least 12V but
it could be higher. Eventually,
I settled for 12V and bought
a conventional 300mA
t r a n sf o r m e r, w h i c h
mounted well where the
old one had been. I also
replaced a few dodgy
looking electros on the
secondary and I now had
the voltage for the relay
and could switch on the
other power supply.
This now produced
the 18V supply but there
was no 115V rail from the
emitter of Q9A6. That left only
the area around Q9A6 and Q9A7.
And this was one of the areas that
was burnt. Resistor R9E1, the two
transistors, three electros and diode
D9D1, all needed replacing
Once this was done, the whole set
fired up and there was picture and
sound.
Everything appeared to be fine,
except for the -30V rail, which was
down to -22V. I then found that the
voltage on the collector of Q9H1 was
low at the same voltage; ie, -22V. I
spent some time checking all the parts
in this circuit before concluding that
perhaps my choice of power transformer hadn’t been the best.
I phoned technical support at Mit
subishi to find that the secondary of
the transformer should really be 24V
and not 12V. However, if I substituted
a 24V transformer, it would no longer
fit on the PC board and it would be a
messy repair. The other two rails and
associated circuits were functioning
correctly and I pondered what to do.
In the end, I decided to leave it as
it was – the -30V rail is used only
for memory on IV702 M58659P (pin
2) and the set was remembering
everything perfectly so I figured it was
best left alone.
Mrs Thompson was relieved to
have her set back, and the bill wasn’t
SC
too heavy.
April 2001 43
Dolby 5.1 digital and audio, front panel controls, infrared . . .
Sound Blaster
Live! Platinum 5.1
There would hardly be a computer sold these days without a
sound card – even many business applications need sound.
You can pay as little as thirty dollars or so for a generic
sound card – or you can spend around $499 and get what
many regard as one of the best.
Review by Ross Tester
M
ost of the sound cards these
days advertise one particular feature: “Sound Blaster
Compatible”. If they’re all trying to
emulate a Sound Blaster, doesn’t that
mean that the genuine Sound Blaster
must be the yardstick by which all
cards are judged?
It might be possible to buy sound
cards which have more (or should that
be different?) features. But then again,
the Sound Blaster Live! Platinum 5.1
we are looking at here doesn’t lack
anything, at least anything that we
Apart from the fact
that it is so powerful,
arguably the best feature
of the Sound Blaster
Live! Platinum 5.1 is
the front-of-computer
“Live!Drive IR”, which
allows connectivity and
infrared control where
you want it: out front!
It’s shown enlarged
below.
44 Silicon Chip
would find important. And as Creative
Technology (the manufacturers) state,
over one hundred million satisfied
users worldwide can hardly be wrong.
Sound Blaster Live! Platinum 5.1 is,
as its name suggests, a 5.1 channel surround sound system. What the name
doesn’t say is that it is Dolby Digital
5.1 – there is no need to buy a Dolby
Digital decoder to experience Dolby
surround sound because it’s already
in your system.
So if you want to get into home
theatre, this could be a very good way
to do so. The system will handle both
CD-ROM and DVD-ROM so you will
have the audio side well and truly
taken care of. You even get remote
control – but we’re getting ahead of
ourselves.
What’s in the box?
It’s a big box. But we’ve opened
some big boxes before to find lots and
Here’s what you get: the
sound card itself is on the
left side with the infrared
remote below it. On the
right is the Live!Drive
IR unit together with the
assortment of cables. The
microphone is partially
obscured (in front of the
box) underneath which is
the set of seven CDs and
“getting started”
instructions.
lots of polystyrene packaging and not
much content. Not so this one: there’s
lots of content!
First of all is the sound card itself
– a PCI-slot card about 135 x 100mm.
As sound cards go, it’s about average
size. And like most cards, it has a
backplane with the usual line in, line
out, microphone and joystick sockets.
You start to think something is a little
different when you discover that it
also has a “rear out” socket and what’s
called an “analog/digital out” jack. If
you’ve worked out that these are for
surround sound (analog or digital),
you’re one jump ahead of us!
The card itself also has many more
on-board connectors than your typical sound card. Of course there is the
standard CD Audio connector – but
there’s also an Aux connector (used
for other devices within the computer which produce audio such as TV
tuners, MPEG, etc); a TAD (telephone
answering device) connector which
provides a mono connection from a
standard voice modem and transmits
microphone signals to the modem; a
CD SPDIF connector for the SPDIF
(digital audio) output if available from
a CD-ROM or DVD-ROM drive; and
finally, an audio extension (digital I/O)
connector which connects the card to
an optional digital I/O card or to the
supplied Live! Drive IR.
Ah, the Live! Drive IR. We were
coming to that. What absolutely infuriates most PC users is the fact that all
connections to the machine are on the
rear panel. And as most users like to
keep their machines neat and wiring
tucked away, to make even a minor
change – connect a different input
device to the sound card, for example
– requires major deconstruction of
your workstation or work area.
Creative Technology have cleverly
overcome this problem with the use
of the Live! Drive IR. This is a standard-width (5-1/4in), half-height box
which fits into any free drive bay on
the front panel – in fact, it screws
into place just like a CD-ROM or hard
disk drive.
On the Live! Drive IR fascia, you get
a pair of RCA “aux in” sockets which
can be used for just about any consumer equipment stereo audio output, a
1/4-inch headphone socket (unusual,
that!) with its own volume control, a
April 2001 45
1/4-inch line in or mic in stereo or
mono socket (again with its own level
control), a pair of RCA SPDIF in/out
jacks (for digital audio from DAT or
minidisc) along with a pair of optical
SPDIF in/out connectors and a pair of
MIDI in/out connectors.
That gives you a large – and thorough – array of sound sources from
which to choose. One thing we didn’t
mention on this fascia is an infrared
receiver window which is used in
conjunction with the comprehensive
infrared remote controller, also supplied with the Live! Drive IR unit.
It’s hard to overstate the importance
– in our eyes, anyway (or should that
be ears?) – of this Live Drive IR. It’s
been one of our biggest headaches over
the years and now, at least as far as the
audio is concerned, we’ll never have
to move the computer again!
By the way, the reason Creative use
1/4-inch sockets for the headphones
is that they claim better quality headphones all use the standard 1/4-inch
(6.5mm) size. If you have headphones
with a 3.5mm socket, 3.5 to 6.5mm
converters are easily obtainable.
So far we’ve only looked at three
pieces of hardware in the box. There’s
also a range of inter-connecting cables
(some of which you use during instal-
The Live! Drive IR unit is not just a patch board. There’s a lot of electronics
crammed onto its PC board as well, as this rear photo shows. This unit is the
same size as a CD-ROM or 5-1/4inch hard disk drive and screws in the same way.
lation) and some of which you may
use later (such as the MIDI and optical
cables). Finally, at least as far as the
hardware is concerned, there is a microphone and desk stand which can
be used in conjunction with several
items of software including internet
connectivity.
The software
Looking at the back
plane (attached
to the sound
card) we can see
the extra sockets
which make all
the difference: the
top socket is the
analog/digital out,
for use with 5.1
channel amplifiers
or digital speakers.
Below that are the
line in, microphone
in, line out and
rear speaker
output jacks, with
the joystick/MIDI
“D” connector at
the bottom. This
photo is approximately life size.
46 Silicon Chip
Sound Blaster Live! Platinum 5.1
includes no less than seven software
CDs. The first of these is used for
installation, which itself is a fairly
simple procedure. It will run on any
Pentium 166 or higher with 32MB
RAM (64MB recommended) and operates under Windows 95, 98, 2000,
ME or NT4. Some of the games require
a faster machine with plenty of hard
disk space (eg, 300MB!).
The software loads the according-to-Creative “revolutionary” EMU10K1 digital audio processor, unleashing more power than you’ll know what
to do with (at least for the first few
weeks!). It also loads EAX, a collection
of audio technologies developed by
Creative to deliver 3D audio technology and 5.1 analog and digital sound.
Just some of the packaged software
includes:
• Creative PlayCenter 2 – provides
fast encoding and decoding of MP3
and WMA files, rips music from CD
tracks, customizes and compiles
playlists and so on.
• Mixman Studio – create your own
music, choosing sounds from the
Soundisc library or create your own
audio files to use in the mix.
• Sound Forge XP – puts powerful
audio processing tools to work on
your desktop. Edit and record digital
audio (.WAV) files.
• PixMaker (and PixScreen) – lets
you create 360 degree interactive
PixAround scenes and web pages
with hotspots to audio and video.
• Creative MediaRing Talk – internet voice communication software
which allows you to make PC to PC
calls over the internet.
• Steinberg’s Cubasis VST, WaveLab Lite and ReCycle Lite
• Vorton Technologies’ Kool Kara-oke
• Mindmaker’s Prody Parrot
• Mindmaker’s Game Commander
SE
The five other CDs load a variety of
games and applications. The games
including Interplay’s MDK2, Thief II
and Deus EX. While they looked pretty
interesting, I didn’t even attempt to
try out the games, due to lack of time.
Besides, the boss might think I was
having fun. . .
Setup
I mentioned a moment ago that
setup was easy – which strictly speaking is true. It was more the pre-setup
which concerns me – what is not said,
rather than what is said.
At the start of this review, I mentioned that the vast majority of (virtually all) computers sold these days
would have sound cards fitted – as
did mine.
As I opened the Sound Blaster
package I thought to myself “what
about the existing sound card”. But
I could find no mention of such an
animal in the instructions. I knew
that I should remove the existing
card both electronically (through
add/remove hardware under Control
Panel) and physically, by removing it
from its slot.
But then I thought “hey, I’m reviewing this as a typical computer
user. I should follow instructions to
the letter”. So I did and, of course,
things didn’t work the way they were
supposed to. It was strange – some
things sort-of-worked, others didn’t
work at all but my existing sound
card did keep working. No conflicts
were shown – things just weren’t
quite right.
Anyway, I thought “enough” and
uninstalled both the Sound Blaster
Live! Platinum 5.1 AND my existing
card, removed the existing card and
then re-installed the SBL!P5.1 – and
surprise, surprise. It worked!
That’s not the only beef I have with
the installation instructions. No, I
wasn’t caught – but only because I’ve
done this before.
The step-by-step instructions show
you how to remove the front panel
cover for the Live! Drive IR, how to
install it and the sound card with
diagrams showing how everything
is wired together, then finally how
to replace the computer cover, plug
the power cord back in and switch
on the system.
The very next page shows how to
connect your CD-ROM or DVD-ROM
drive to the card. Hey guys, we’ve just
put the cover back on and powered
up the system. So you have to power
down, unscrew the case, connect the
CD-ROM – then put the cover back on.
OK, it’s a small point but it’s sloppy.
In use
This might sound a little strange
in this review but we didn’t have a
We were unable to test the optical
in/out because we had nothing which
provided optical output or input. And
we didn’t put any of the internet applications to work because we operate
through a network and a firewall – and
every time I fire up a new internet
application, “something screwy”
happens to our internet server. So I
left that well alone.
What we didn’t like
The infrared remote control gives you
virtually the same power as keyboard
commands or mouse clicks. Unfortunately we found it a tad tricky to use.
5.1 channel amplifier and speakers
lying idly by, so we were unable to
put the system through its full paces.
All we were able to do was work in
2-channel mode.
And for this, we can say the system
did everything we wanted it to do,
albeit with some fairly steep learning curves. Given more time, we’re
certain we’d be able to get more from
it – a LOT more. You can select two
channel, four channel or six (5.1)
channel mode.
We used the PlayCentre II software
to rip audio from a few CDs and assemble playlists of our favourite tracks.
We’re not going to tell you that we then
sent this across our network to a CDROM burner to make a “favourites”
CD, because that could be illegal (but
gee it worked well!).
We played with the effects engines,
the mixers and many of the other applications – and loved ’em. It’s fairly
easy to grasp the fundamentals but
you will need some time (and possibly the brain of a 10-year-old!) to
really get into the nitty gritty. From
the things we played with, though,
the immense potential of the system
was very evident.
Overall, our impression was very
favourable. It packs a lot of punch and
we’re sure would give first-rate results
as a 5.1 system. But there were just a
couple of niggly little things . . .
Some of the applications literally
take control of your PC and the limited instructions don’t really give you
enough info to claim it back. So be
prepared to get a little frustrated from
time to time (I know I did).
For example, once I had a large
digital clock on screen (I don’t know
where it came from!) which I simply couldn’t remove; even the main
Creative Launcher doesn’t have the
familiar “–x” box. Why not?
In time, I’m sure this would become
less of a problem as you became more
and more familiar with the software
and the way it works.
Another thing was the inconsistency in the way the infrared controller
worked. Sometimes it did what we
expected, other times it didn’t. Again,
I suspect this is more a lack of knowledge or understanding on my part than
anything wrong with the system but
when you have limited time, it’s a bit
annoying.
And one curious feature I found
with the infrared which I’m sure is not
a problem with me(!): when you use
it, then change buttons, the first step
it takes is from the previous button
pressed. For example, when you increase volume, then push the decrease
volume button, the first thing it does is
increase volume one more step before
starting to decrease. Curious, that.
Where from?
The Creative Sound Blaster Live!
Platinum 5.1 should be available from
any reasonable computer store.
Trade enquiries should be directed
to Creative Labs Pty Ltd, Locked Bag
5000, Banksmeadow, NSW 2019.
Phone (02) 9666 6100; Fax (02) 9666
6900; website www.australia.creaSC
tive.com
April 2001 47
Want to do your own home wiring? Repair appliances?
Replace a power point or light fitting?
YOU can help make it happen!
Ever since the subject was first raised in SILICON CHIP,
readers have been asking how we in Australia could convince
our politicians to change the rules which currently make it
illegal for most people to even remove the screws in a light
fitting or power point so they can paint under it!
Here’s your opportunity to help change the rules so that
anyone who feels competent can legally do their own electrical
wiring, just as they have done for years in New Zealand and
many other countries.
We need to abolish the “closed shop” that state governments
around Australia are presently maintaining through restrictive
state legislation.
Photocopy the “Statement of Will” form, insert the name
of your state in each of the spaces provided, and circulate it
among your friends, family and workplace colleagues. Ask each
signatory to circulate additional copies among their friends and
family, etc.
If you have sufficient commitment to the cause, obtain
signatures in public places, such as shopping areas, entries to
train stations, etc. This is, after all, an issue of democracy that
concerns not only electrical and electronic engineers, technical
officers, technicians and hobbyists, but all householders. We
must aim for a maximum number of signatories if we are to
be successful.
Send the completed forms to SILICON CHIP and we will forward them to the relevant state Ministers, along with copies of
published correspondence, editorials, etc. The Ministers will be
informed that their response, or a report that they apparently
decided not to respond, will be published in SILICON CHIP!
While in some ways similar to a petition, it must be our aim
that it is not treated as a petition. If you have access to the Internet, go to http://www.rag.org.au/rag/petqld.htm and study the
onerous requirements that must, by law, be observed in order
to produce a petition that a state parliament will accept. Then
click on Creative Petitioning at the bottom of the page to learn
how easily parliaments can disregard petitions.
Our state parliaments have refused to accept petitions that had
many tens of thousands of signatures on them, simply because
the form of the petition was not exactly correct. If you don’t have
access to the Internet, suffice to say that conventional petitions
to our state and federal parliaments are largely a waste of time.
In addition to circulating the “Statement of Will” form, write
an individual “MY WILL” letter, similar to the one below, to
your local state member of parliament and encourage others
to do the same.
Don’t forget to date the letter and provide your name and
address so the parliamentarian can confirm that you are a
constituent.
48 Silicon Chip
Dear Sir (or Dear Madam),
I know that it is my duty to keep you informed of MY WILL on
any matter that comes before Parliament, or that should come
before Parliament.
IT IS MY WILL that you take immediate action to end the “closed
shop” that electricians enjoy in relation to “electrical work”, and
that you promote the replacement of current electricity related
legislation with legislation that is essentially equivalent to the New
Zealand Electricity Act and Regulation, which allows householders
to do their own “electrical work”, including appliance repairs and
the installation of fixed wiring.
Yours Faithfully,
(signed)
Above all, don’t enter into written argument with a politician.
Politicians are masters in the art of avoiding what they don’t want
to face up to, and become experts in manipulating words to their
own benefit. Should your parliamentary member try to sidestep
(and they are extremely adept at doing so) taking positive political
action on your behalf (ie, they rattle on about what his/her party is
or is not doing instead of agreeing to act in accordance with your
WILL), you simply write back and state:
Dear Sir (or Dear Madam),
Further to my letter of (insert date of your original letter) and
your reply of (insert date of their inadequate or fob-off reply), and
in accordance with my lawful obligation to keep you informed of MY
WILL, I again inform you that IT IS MY WILL that you take immediate
action to end the “closed shop” that electricians enjoy in relation to
“electrical work”, and that you promote the replacement of current
electricity related legislation with legislation that is essentially equivalent to the New Zealand Electricity Act and Regulation, which allows
householders to do their own “electrical work”, including appliance
repairs and the installation of fixed wiring.
Yours faithfully,
(signed)
If you have access to the internet, go to http://www.rag.org. au/
rag/mywillet.htm and learn about the background and potential
power of the “MY WILL” letter. For each “MY WILL” letter you send
to your parliamentary member, send a copy to SILICON CHIP so we
can monitor the level of involvement in the campaign for reform.
If your local parliamentarian shows interest in the issue, provide
them with copies of relevant SILICON CHIP published correspondence
and editorials, etc, or ask them to contact SILICON CHIP directly.
Come on SILICON CHIP readers, you asked us to help you with
this one – if you don’t want more and more restrictions, get those
signatures rolling in!
Statement of Will: Reform of Electrical Legislation
The primary responsibility of parliamentary representatives and governments is to do the will of the people. Electors
must make their will known to their parliamentary representatives and governments.
We, the undersigned, hereby assert that it is our will that the government of *________________________
acknowledge that current electrical safety legislation unjustifiably discriminates against ordinary householders as
well as electrical and electronic engineers, technical officers, and technicians and that the effect of its enactment
has been, and continues to be, to protect a monopoly for licensed electricians.
We also hereby assert that it is our will that the government of *___________________________________
acknowledge that the potential dangers of “electrical work” are grossly exaggerated by the state electrical licensing
boards and that the New Zealand electrical fatalities and accidents statistics belie these claims of dangers.
We further assert that it is our will that the government of *__________________________________________
repeal, in a timely manner, all current electrical safety legislation to replace it with legislation that is essentially
equivalent to the New Zealand Electricity Act and Regulation, which allows ordinary householders to do their own
“electrical work”, including appliance repairs and the installation of fixed wiring.
* (insert state or territory)
Name Address Signature
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AM
pril
AY 2001 49
Jazz up your music with this
TREMOLO
TREMOLO
Add another popular effect to your musicmaking with this easy-to-build Tremolo unit.
It features low distortion and extremely low
noise, thus providing a very clean sound.
By JOHN CLARKE
Musicians and particularly guitarists often have a myriad of effects units
attached to their equipment. They can
switch these in and out at will, so as
to add various effects while playing
a particular section in the music.
This low-cost Tremolo unit will add
another effect to your repertoire and
can be used simultaneously with other
effects units.
50 Silicon Chip
The Tremolo effect is one which
has been with us for a long time and
is easily implemented using electronic circuitry. It is achieved simply by
rapidly varying the volume over time.
If these volume changes occur at a
reasonably fast rate (eg, 5Hz), then the
effect is quite noticeable. The amount
of volume change (or depth) also determines the degree of the effect.
Effects units usually include several controls so that you can tailor the
sound to suit your requirements. This
unit has two controls – one to adjust
the modulation depth and the other
to adjust the rate of modulation or the
frequency. You can also switch the
effect in or out at will, using either a
front panel switch or an external foot
switch which plugs into a jack socket
on the rear panel.
The unit is housed in a compact
case with the input and output jack
sockets at the rear. The front panel
controls are quite simple and include
an on/off switch, the Rate and Depth
potentiometers and an In/Out switch.
A front-panel LED which flashes in
sympathy with the volume modulation indicates the Tremolo rate, while
Fig.1: the block diagram of the
Tremolo Unit. It has two distinct
sections – a signal path section
(via IC1a, LDR1 & IC1b) and a
control section consisting of a
sinewave oscillator (IC2a, IC2b,
LED2 & LED3) and buffer stage
(Q1 & LED4). The control section
continuously varies the resistance
of the LDR to modulate the signal
to produce the tremolo effect.
a second LED provides power on/off
indication. The unit is powered by a
12VDC plugpack supply.
Block diagram
Fig.1 shows the general arrangement of the Tremolo Unit. It has two
distinct sections, one being the signal
path and the other the control section.
As shown, the incoming signal is
first amplified by IC1a and then fed to
a gain element stage (LDR1). This stage
varies the signal level at its output in
response to a signal from the control
section before feeding it to an output
buffer stage (IC1b).
Normally, with no tremolo, the gain
element provides a small amount of
attenuation. When the tremolo effect
is switched in, the gain of this stage
is continuously varied, so that the
signal is constantly boosted and cut.
The gain of IC1a is such that the signal level remains constant when the
tremolo effect is switched off.
The gain element itself is nothing
more than a light dependent resistor
(LDR) which varies its resistance according to the light that falls on it. In
this circuit, we use a high-brightness
red LED to control the LDR and this
is driven by a sinewave signal that’s
generated by the control circuit.
The control circuit is basically a
sinewave oscillator and consists of
Main Features
•
•
•
•
•
•
Adjustable tremolo rate
Adjustable tremolo depth
Tremolo rate indicator LED
In/out switch on front panel
and socket for a foot switch
Compact size
Operates from a 12VDC
plugpack supply
a high-Q filter stage (IC2a), op amp
IC2b and a “clamping” stage. Also
included are the depth pot (VR2) and
the In/Out switch (S2). The sinewave
output is buffered by transistor Q1
which in turn drives LED4 to control
the amount of light falling on the LDR.
The oscillator operates by amplifying the signal from the high-Q filter,
clamping this to produce a square
wave and then reapplying the signal
back to the filter via a positive feedback path. The high-Q filter produces
a very clean sinewave at its output
while the level is set by the square
wave level (ie, the feedback signal),
which in turn is set by depth pot VR2.
Circuit details
Refer now to Fig.2 for the full circuit
details. It’s relatively simple and is
based on five op amp stages.
Specifications
Total harmonic distortion ...........................................0.1% at 100mV in and <at> 1kHz
Signal to noise ratio .............108dB with respect to 1V input and 1kΩ input loading;
112dB A weighted
Maximum input before clipping ..............................1.2V RMS (12VDC input supply)
Frequency response ................................................... -0.1dB at 20Hz; -3dB at 34kHz
Signal gain ........................................... 1V in for 1V out with no tremolo modulation
Tremolo frequency range ........................................................................2Hz to 17Hz
Tremolo modulation depth .......................................from 0% up to 80% modulation
Average output level change for 0-50% modulation ....... -0.4dB at 50% modulation
April 2001 51
Fig.2: the complete circuit of the Tremolo unit. IC2a & IC2b form the heart of a
sinewave oscillator and this drives LED4 via buffer transistor Q1. LED4 in turn
is optocoupled to LDR1 and modulates its resistance to vary the signal gain.
Op amp IC1a, LDR1 and IC1b
make up the signal path. As shown,
the input signal comes in via a 47µF
capacitor and a 100Ω resistor and is
applied to the pin 5 (non-inverting)
input of IC1a.
The 47µF capacitor is needed to
provide AC coupling because IC1a
is biased at half supply (6V), as are
all the other op amps in the circuit.
It is also much larger than necessary
to ensure that IC1a sees a very low
52 Silicon Chip
source impedance, to minimise noise.
The 100Ω resistor and 10pF capacitor on pin 5 are there to filter out any
radio frequency (RF) signals at the op
amp input.
IC1a operates with a gain of 2.8,
as set by the 18kΩ feedback resistor
between pins 6 & 7 and the 10kΩ resistor connected between pin 6 and the
half-supply rail. This gain compensates
for any signal losses in the following
LDR1 and 1.5kΩ attenuator circuit.
When the tremolo modulation signal is off, LDR1 receives a constant
amount of light from LED4 and has a
resistance of about 2.7kΩ. As a result,
the signal is attenuated by a factor of
2.8 before being applied to unity gain
buffer stage IC1b. IC1b then drives
the output socket via a 10µF coupling
capacitor.
Note the 150Ω resistor in series with
the output. This isolates IC1b from
any capacitive loads which may be
connected to the output socket and
prevents oscillation.
Another two op amps are used
in the control circuit, with IC2a
providing the high-Q filter section.
This op amp has a “T-filter” circuit
connected into its negative feedback
loop (between pins 1 & 2). The filter
components include resistors R1 &
R2, capacitors C1 & C2 and the Rate
pot (VR1).
The frequency of the filter is set
by the value of VR1 according to the
following formula:
f = 1/2πC1√((R1 + VR1) x R2).
Substituting the relevant values
into this formula gives a frequency
range of 2Hz to 17Hz (VR1 = 0-100kΩ).
The output signal from IC2a appears at pin 1 and drives transistor Q1
via a 10kΩ base resistor. Q1 in turn
drives LED4, which is optocoupled
to LDR1.
IC2a’s output also drives inverting op amp stage IC2b, which operates with a gain of about 21 (ie,
47kΩ/2.2kΩ). Its output signal appears on pin 7 and the level is clamped
at about 1.8V above and below 6V (ie,
half supply) using LEDs 2 & 3.
This gives a square wave signal
which swings between 4.2V and 7.8V
(ie, 3.6V p-p). This signal is applied
to Depth pot VR2 and the signal on
its wiper then applied back to the
T-filter stage via a 220kΩ resistor. It
is this positive feedback that makes
the circuit oscillate.
As mentioned before, the amplitude
of the sinewave signal from IC2a is set
by the Depth pot (VR2). This sinewave
signal swings above and below the 6V
level (ie, 1/2Vcc). As the signal voltage
from IC2a rises, it drives LED4 harder and so its light output increases.
This reduces the resistance of LDR1
and so the audio signal output level
increases.
Fig.3: here’s how to build the unit. Note that LED4 and LDR1 are enclosed
in a light tunnel made from heatshrink tubing – see photo. Take care with
component orientation during the board assembly.
Conversely, as the signal swings
down, the resistance of LDR1 increases and the audio output level
is attenuated. As a result, the audio
output level varies continuously. VR1
sets the Rate at which the audio output
level varies, while VR2 set the Depth
(or range) of the level variation.
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
No.
2
2
1
1
5
1
3
1
1
1
1
Value
1MΩ
220kΩ
47kΩ
18kΩ
10kΩ
4.7kΩ
2.2kΩ
1.8kΩ
1.5kΩ
150Ω
100Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black green brown
red red yellow brown
yellow violet orange brown
brown grey orange brown
brown black orange brown
yellow violet red brown
red red red brown
brown grey red brown
brown green red brown
brown green brown brown
brown black brown brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black yellow brown
red red black orange brown
yellow violet black red brown
brown grey black red brown
brown black black red brown
yellow violet black brown brown
red red black brown brown
brown grey black brown brown
brown green black brown brown
brown green black black brown
brown black black black brown
April 2001 53
Table 2: Capacitor Codes
Value
IEC Code EIA Code
0.22µF 224 220n
560pF 561 560p
330pF 331 330p
10pF 10 10p
the resistance of LDR1 (and thus the
audio output level) remains constant.
Because LEDs 2 & 3 are wired as
voltage clamps, they flash on and off
whenever the circuit is oscillating. We
have put this to good use by having
LED2 protrude through the front panel
of the case, to give a visual indication
of the oscillator rate.
Of course, once you get above about
10Hz, the LED will appear flicker
quite rapidly. Note that the LED will
be off when the Depth control is set
to minimum and the oscillator stops,
or when switch S2 is closed.
Power supply
This view shows how LED4 and LDR1 are enclosed in the heatshrink tube light
tunnel. Don’t shrink the tubing down too far – it should be shrunk down just
enough to firmly grip the two components.
When S2 is switched to the “Out”
position (ie, tremolo off), VR2’s
wiper is held at Vcc/2 and so there
is no positive feedback signal. As a
result, the circuit stops oscillating
and IC2a’s output sits at a constant
6V. This drives LED 4 (via Q1) with
a constant amount of current and so
Fig.4: the top trace shows the audio input signal to the
Tremolo unit while the lower trace is the modulated output
signal that produces the tremolo effect.
54 Silicon Chip
Power for the circuit is derived from
a 12VDC plugpack. This is applied
via reverse polarity protection diode
D1 and filtered using 100µF and 10µF
electrolytic capacitors. S1 is the on/off
switch, while LED1 provides power
on indication.
Op amp stage IC3 is used to provide a 6V (Vcc/2) supply rail with a
low source impedance. This op amp
is wired as a voltage follower and
has its pin 3 input biased to Vcc/2
(6V) by two 10kΩ resistors. A 10µF
Fig.5: the top trace in this scope shot is the sinewave
output at pin1 of IC2a. Notice how the lower waveform
(ie, the output signal) follows the sinewave shape.
Parts List
1 PC board, code 01104011, 117
x 102mm
1 front panel artwork, 130 x 29mm
1 rear panel artwork, 130 x 29mm
1 ABS instrument case, 140 x 110
x 35mm
3 6.35mm mono PC-mount jack
sockets
1 2.5mm DC power socket
2 mini SP rocker switches (S1,S2)
1 100kΩ 16mm linear pot (VR1)
1 10kΩ 16mm linear pot (VR2)
2 16mm diameter knobs
1 LDR (LDR1) (Jaycar RD-3480
or equivalent)
4 M3 x 6mm screws
1 20mm length of 6mm black
heatshrink tubing
1 60mm length of 0.8mm tinned
copper wire
1 100mm length of twin light-duty
hookup wire
6 PC stakes
Semiconductors
2 TL072, LF353 dual op amps
(IC1,IC2)
1 TL071, LF351 op amp (IC3)
1 BC548 NPN transistor (Q1)
3 5mm red LEDs (LED1-LED3)
1 3000mcd red LED (LED4)
1 1N4004 1A diode (D1)
The PC board fits neatly into a compact low-profile instrument case. You can
switch the tremolo effect in or out using either the front-panel switch or an
external foot-operated switch
capacitor decouples this bias voltage
to minimise noise.
In operation, IC3 adjusts its output
at pin 6 so that pin 2 is kept at the same
voltage as pin 3 (ie, Vcc/2, or 6V). The
100Ω resistor provides short-circuit
protection for IC3, while the 10µF
capacitor at pin 2 prevents the IC from
oscillating.
Construction
Building it is easy since virtually all
the parts are installed on a PC board
coded 01104011 (117 x 102mm). This
is housed in an ABS instrument case
measuring just 140 x 110 x 35mm, to
make a really compact unit.
As usual, check your etched PC
board against the published pattern to
ensure there are no defects (eg, shorts
between tracks or breaks in the copper
pattern). You should also check the
hole sizes – the pots and jack sockets
require 1.5mm holes, while the four
corner mounting holes should be
drilled to 3mm.
Fig.3 shows what you have to do to
build the unit. Begin the board assembly by installing the resistors and wire
links. Table 1 shows the resistor colour
codes but we suggest that you check
the values using a digital multimeter
as well – just to make sure.
The three ICs, diode D1 and transistor Q1 can all go in next, making
sure that IC3 is the TL071. Take care
Capacitors
1 100µF 16VW PC electrolytic
1 47µF 16VW PC electrolytic
5 10µF 16VW PC electrolytic
2 0.22µF MKT polyester
1 560pF ceramic
1 330pF ceramic
1 10pF ceramic
Resistors (0.25W 1%)
2 1MΩ
3 2.2kΩ
2 220kΩ
1 1.8kΩ
1 47kΩ
1 1.5kΩ
1 18kΩ
1 150Ω
5 10kΩ
2 100Ω
1 4.7kΩ
to ensure that these parts are correctly
orientated. This done, you can install
all the capacitors but again watch the
polarity of the electrolytic types. Table
2 shows the codes for the low-value
capacitors.
The two potentiometers can now
be installed (don’t mix them up),
followed by the jack sockets the LEDs
and the LDR. LEDs 1 & 2 should be
April 2001 55
Fig.6: this is the full-size etching pattern for the PC board.
mounted at full lead length, so that
they can later be bent over and pushed
into their respective holes on the front
panel. LED3 should be mounted about
5mm clear of the PC board, while
LED4 and LDR1 should both be about
12mm clear of the board. Important:
LED4 is the high-brightness LED.
Once these parts are in, LED4 and
LDR1 should be bent over at right
angles so that they face each other.
These two devices are then pushed
into a light tunnel made from 6mmdia. heatshrink tubing (about 20mm
long), so that only the LED light falls
on the LDR – see photo.
Shrink the tubing slightly using a
hot-air gun, so that the devices are
properly sealed.
Finally, complete the board assembly by installing PC stakes at the
external wiring points. There are six
stakes in all – two each for switches
S1 & S2 and two for the DC socket.
Final assembly
The next step is to drill the necessary holes in the front and rear panels,
to accept the various hardware items.
You can use the full-size artworks
published with this article as tem
plates to do this job. For the larger
holes, it’s best to drill a small pilot
holes first and then carefully enlarge
56 Silicon Chip
them using a tapered reamer.
The switch mounting holes can be
made by drilling a series of small holes
around the inside perimeter and then
knocking out the centre piece and
filing to a smooth finish.
Once you’ve drilled the holes, attach the front and rear panel labels,
then clip the switches into the front
panel and secure the two pots. You
will need to fit two nuts to each of
the bushes on the pots – one on either
side of the panel. LEDs 1 & 2 on the PC
board can then be bent over through
90° and pushed into their front panel
holes.
The PC board mounts on four integral pillars on the base of the case
and is secured using self-tapping M3
screws. Note that it will be necessary
to first remove the unused pillars on
the base using a pair of side cutters,
to prevent them fouling the PC board.
Finally, complete the assembly by
wiring up the switches and the DC
socket, as shown on Fig.3.
The smoke test
Well, there won’t really be any
smoke – or at least, we hope not!
To test the unit, apply power,
switch on and check that there is 12V
between pins 8 & 4 of both IC1 and
IC2. Similarly, there should be 12V
Fig.7: these full-size artworks can be
used as drilling templates for the front
and rear panels.
between pins 7 & 4 of IC3, while pin
2 of IC3 should be at about 6V.
Take care not to short out any of the
IC pins while making these checks. In
fact, it’s generally best not to probe
the IC pins directly. Instead, you can
connect the negative lead of your
DMM to an earth point (eg, at the DC
socket) and connect the positive lead
to points on the circuit that directly
connect to the relevant IC pins.
Now check that LEDs 2 and 3 light
alternately at an increasing rate as the
Rate pot is wound up. Note that the
Depth pot must also be turned up for
these to operate, while S2 must be
switched to the “In” position.
Finally, you can check that the unit
operates normally by connecting it to
an amplifier and feeding in an input
signal. The Tremolo effect should
become quite prominent as the Depth
control is wound up and you should
be able to vary the rate from about 2Hz
SC
to 17Hz using the Rate control.
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04-01
The FM MiniMitter runs from a 3V
supply and can drive a 300Ω dipole
antenna for improved range.
By JOHN CLARKE
Build the
MINIMITTER
A miniature FM stereo transmitter
Want to listen to your own selection of
music through your personal stereo FM
radio? Using the FM MiniMitter, you can
broadcast from your CD player or from any
other source so that it can be picked up
within a 35-metre radius.
There are many applications for an
FM transmitter, particularly if it can
broadcast in stereo. You can broadcast
stereo signals from your CD player or
any other source (stereo or mono) to
an FM tuner or radio.
The FM MiniMitter uses a single IC
and a few other components and fits
58 Silicon Chip
in a small plastic case. It broadcasts
on the FM band (ie, 88-108MHz) so
that it can be received by any standard
FM tuner or portable radio.
We published our first version of
the MiniMitter in October 1988 and it
has been a very popular project ever
since. So why are we presenting it
again? The main reasons are to extend
its transmission range (a frequent
request over the years), to make it
easier to tune and to make it easier
to operate the input level controls.
Our new version of the FM MiniMitter operates from 3V rather than
1.5V and this can come from two AA
cells or you can run it from a 6V DC
plugpack. Running from two AA cells
gives more than double the battery
life of one cell since the circuit will
continue to operate even when the
supply voltage drops below 1V (although the power output and range
will be much reduced).
The RCA input sockets and DC
socket are all PC-mounted so there
Main Features
•
•
•
•
•
Frequency range: 95-105MHz
(can be extended with component
changes; see text)
Transmission range: 40m with
folded dipole antenna transmitter
to typical FM receiver
Current consumption: 10mA
Distortion: typically 3% at
200mV audio signal level
Separation between channels:
typically 45dB at 1kHz
is virtually no wiring to do.
Setting the input levels is now much
easier and the adjust
able coils have
been spaced further apart to minimise
interaction and allow easier tuning.
However, the biggest change is in the
antenna circuit. You can now use a
simple wire antenna or a 300Ω dipole
antenna for extended range.
Both antennas are matched correctly
to the transmitter IC. The simple wire
antenna is matched with a trimming
capacitor while the 300Ω dipole is
matched using a trimmer capacitor and
a 75Ω-to-300Ω balun. These antenna
improvements along with the 3V power
supply provide the FM MiniMitter with
a much greater transmission range. This
is important, whether you are using it
outdoors or between different levels in
your home.
Circuit details
The FM MiniMitter is based on a
BA1404 IC made by the Rohm Corporation in Japan. It incorporates all the
processing circuitry required for stereo
transmission which in itself is quite a
complex procedure. See the separate
section devoted to how an FM stereo
transmitter works. Fig.1 shows the
complete circuit.
Left and right audio signals are connected via 10kΩ series resistors to trimpots VR1 & VR2. The 4.7µF capacitor at
the wiper of each trimpot AC-couples
Fig.1 (right): the circuit is based on the
BA1404 FM transmitter IC. It is very
similar to our original circuit published
in October 1988 but now uses a 3V supply
and can drive a 300Ω dipole antenna for
increased range.
April 2001 59
Fig.2: the component overlay for the PC board. The corners of the PC board must be shaped to fit around
the pillars of the plastic case.
the signal to the following 50µs
pre-emphasis network comprising a
.001µF capacitor and parallel 47kΩ
resistor.
The 50µs pre-emphasis is a defined
amount of treble boost applied above
3kHz before the signal is processed
in the transmitter. When the signal
is received and demodulated, the
boosted treble signal is subsequently
attenuated so that the frequency response is flat over the audio spectrum.
This process of pre-emphasis before
transmission and de-emphasis at reception provides an improvement in
the signal-to-noise ratio and a reduc
tion in audible hiss.
The 10Ω resistor following the
pre-emphasis components at pins 1 &
18 is there to help prevent RF signals
entering the IC.
An internal bias voltage for the au-
Fig.3 light duty hookup wire
is used to wind the balun and
0.5mm enamelled copper wire
for coils L1 & L2.
60 Silicon Chip
dio section within IC1 is decoupled
by the 10µF capacitor at pin 2 and this
voltage is also present at pins 1 & 18.
An internal 38kHz oscillator is
formed using crystal X1 connected
in series with the 10pF capacitor to
pins 5 & 6. The oscillator drives the
internal stereo multiplexer which
switches between the left and right
signals (at 38kHz). VR3 (between
pins 16 & 17) provides the balance
adjustment between the left and right
channels.
The multiplexer output at pin 14
and the 19kHz pilot tone at pin 13
are mixed at pin 12 to produce the
modulation input. The resistors and
capacitors at pins 13, 14 and 12 set
the correct pilot tone level which is
required for detection in the stereo
decoder in an FM receiver.
Following the modulator input is
the RF section which includes the
local oscillator and tuned output. The
.001µF capacitor at pin 4 provides
bypass of the bias voltages used for
the RF circuitry.
The RF mixer oscillator comprises
L1, the 47pF parallel capacitor and
the two 15pF capacitors at pins 9 &
10. Inductor L2 and the parallel 47pF
capacitor filter the oscillator output
to limit transmission beyond the
frequency range required for stereo
transmission.
Finally, the RF output at pin 7 is
coupled to the antenna and balun
via a variable capacitor VC1. This
is adjusted for best matching into
the antenna. Balun L3 provides for a
dipole antenna if required.
As already noted, the circuit is
powered from 3V, either from the two
on-board AA cells or from an external
6V DC plugpack. This is connected
via a DC socket with internal switching. When the plugpack is connected,
the internal switch disconnects the
AA cells and the positive DC line is
fed to the cathode (ie, positive terminal) of ZD1, a 3.3V zener diode.
The negative return line to the
plugpack goes via the on/off switch
and a 56Ω resistor for current limiting.
Construction
All the components of the FM Mini
Mitter are mounted on a PC board
coded 06104011 and measuring 122
x 60mm. This is housed in a plastic
utility case measuring 67 x 130 x
44mm. The component layout is
shown in Fig.2.
You can begin construction by
checking that the PC board fits neatly
into the case. The corners may need
to be shaped to fit around the corner
pillars in the box. Check that the holes
for the DC socket and RCA sockets are
the correct size. Also the mounting of
coils L1 and L2 may differ slightly,
depending on the type of coil former
used.
Some coil formers require a single
The PC board inside the FM MiniMitter accommodates all the components and
even the input and DC sockets. The only wiring is to the 300Ω antenna terminals
and to the on/off switch. Note the small ceramic capacitors with the black dot at
the top; these are NPO types, specified for minimum frequency drift, and must
be used for the 15pF and 47pF values.
central hole for mounting while others mount via two PC stakes which are
part of the former. The central hole
former will need a hole drilled for it
and the former can later be held in
Table 2: Capacitor Codes
with some super glue. PC stakes can
be inserted into the adjacent holes for
connecting the wires.
Start the assembly by installing
the wire links and resistors. You can
Value
IEC Code EIA Code
.01µF 10n 103
.001µF 1n 102
330pF 330p 331
47pF 47p 47
15pF 15p 15
10pF 10p 10
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
No.
1
2
2
1
1
2
Value
100kΩ
47kΩ
10kΩ
2.7kΩ
56Ω
10Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black yellow brown
yellow violet orange brown
brown black orange brown
red violet red brown
green blue black brown
brown black black brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black orange brown
yellow violet black red brown
brown black black red brown
red violet black brown brown
green blue black gold brown
brown black black gold brown
April 2001 61
How an FM Stereo Transmitter Works
Fig.5: the block diagram of an FM stereo transmitter. The multiplexer switches the modulation input to the mixer
oscillator between the left and right channels at a rate of 38kHz. The 19kHz pilot signal (ie, half 38kHz) is used to lock
the 38kHz multiplex decoder (demultiplexer) in a stereo tuner.
Fig.5 shows the block diagram of
the BA1404 stereo trans
mitter IC.
The left and right channel inputs
are applied to trimpots and then to
a 50µs pre-emphasis circuit which
provides treble boost above 3.38kHz.
50µs pre-emphasis is the Australian
standard for FM broadcast. (75µs
pre-emphasis is used in the USA and
other countries).
After pre-emphasis, the left
and right channel signals are
fed to buffer amplifiers and
then to the multiplexer which is
driven at 38kHz. This produces
sum (L+R) and difference (L-R)
signals which are modulated
on the 38kHz carrier. The carrier is suppressed (removed)
to provide a double sideband
suppressed carrier signal.
The (L+R) and (L-R) signals
are mixed with the 19kHz pilot
Fig.6: the frequency spectrum of the
signal which is derived by div
com-posite transmitted stereo signal. Note
the spike of the pilot tone at 19kHz.
iding down the 38kHz oscillator
used Table 1 as a guide to the resistor
colour codes or use a digital multimeter to check the values. PC stakes are
inserted for switch S1 and the 300Ω
and 75Ω antenna outlets.
Next, install the BA1404 IC, taking care to insert it with the correct
orientation. This done, install the
trimpots, trimmer VC1, the PC-mount
RCA sockets and the DC socket. Zener
diode ZD1 can be then be installed,
followed by the capacitors. The electrolytic types must be inserted with
62 Silicon Chip
the shown polarity, while ceramic
types must be used where specified.
Make sure you use a 38kHz crystal
for X1. If you are mistakenly supplied
with a 32kHz watch crystal, the transmitter will not work in stereo.
Winding the coils
Coils L1 and L2 are wound as
shown in Fig.3. Wind one and a
half turns around each former, using
0.5mm enamelled copper wire. The
coil winding should be made within
by two. The resulting composite signal
is then frequency modulated onto a
carrier frequency in the FM band.
Once filtered and amplified in the RF
amplifier, the signal is transmitted via
the antenna.
Fig.6 shows the spectrum of the
composite stereo signal. The (L+R)
signal occupies the frequency range
between 0 and 15kHz. The double
sideband suppressed carrier signal
(L-R) has a lower sideband which
extends from 23-28kHz and an upper
sideband from 38-53kHz. There is no
subcarrier at 38kHz.
The pilot tone at 19kHz is also
shown. The pilot tone is used in the
receiver to reconstitute the 38kHz
subcarrier so that the stereo signal
can be decoded.
the lower half of the former. Insert
each former into the PC board and
solder the wires in position.
The ferrite slugs can then be inserted and screwed in so the top of
each slug is about flush with the top
of the former. Use a plastic or brass
alignment tool to screw in the slugs.
Using an ordinary screwdriver is bad
for two reasons: (1) it is very easy to
crack the slug; and (2) the screwdriver
badly affects the tuning of the coils.
The balun is wound using red and
Fig.7: these scope waveforms show the 38kHz multiplex
output waveform at pin 14 of IC1 when an 8kHz sinewave is fed into the left channel.
Fig.8: the 19kHz pilot tone at pin 13 of IC1 is a square
wave.
Fig.9: the final modulation waveform appearing at pin
12 of IC1 combines the left and right inputs (in this case,
only the left 8kHz input), the 19kHz pilot and the 38kHz
switching.
Fig.10: if you have a 100MHz scope you can measure the
RF output at the input to the balun. Use a 10:1 probe.
black light duty hookup wire, also as
shown in Fig.3. The colours make it
easy to identify each winding when
you connect it to the PC board. Each
wire is looped twice through the ferrite balun core, as shown in Fig.3. The
finished balun is connected to the PC
board stakes, taking care to connect
the correct wire to each PC stake.
The two AA cell holders are each
wired to the PC board, taking care
to orient each holder correctly. The
holders can be held in place with
small screws and nuts or simply glued
in place using a hot glue gun, silicone
sealant or even contact adhesive.
The case requires holes for the RCA
sockets and the DC socket. The screw
terminals for the 300Ω ribbon cable
antenna connections are mounted at
the other end of the case. The screw
terminal plate is secured with two
screws which tap into the plastic
case. Drill holes for the connection
screws to pass through into the case
and holes for the internal connection
tabs. These are bent flat inside the
case to allow the PC board to be easily
installed without fouling.
You will also need a hole in the
lid for the power switch. Wire up the
switch and the 300Ω terminals using
light-duty insulated hookup wire.
Testing
Testing the transmitter can be
done using two AA cells or with a
6VDC plugpack. Apply power and
first check for a nominal 3V between
April 2001 63
You can connect either a 300Ω dipole antenna to the screw
terminals or run a length of wire from the 75Ω signal output on the PC board out through the adjacent hole.
pins 3 and 15 of IC1. Now connect
the 300Ω dipole antenna to the connecting screws or use a 1.5m length
of insulated hookup wire connected
to the 75Ω signal terminal on the
PC board. Do not use both antennas
together.
You will need a stereo FM tuner or
radio to tune the transmitter. The FM
tuner and transmitter should initially
be placed about two metres apart. Do
not connect a program source to the
FM MiniMitter at this stage.
Begin by setting the FM tuner to
around 100MHz, where there is no
other station. The tuner should produce a lot of noise, indicating that
there is no station present.
The two RCA connectors and DC socket mate with holes
drilled in the other end of the case (ie, opposite the
antenna terminals).
Now adjust the slug in L1 using
a suitable trimming tool, until the
transmitter is tuned in; this will cause
the noise level from the tuner to drop
right down. This is called “Quieting”
by the way.
This done, adjust the slug in L2 so
that the stereo indicator light on the
FM tuner comes on (if there is one);
background noise should be minimal.
You can now connect up a stereo
signal source such as a CD player to
the inputs and check if you receive
this in the tuner.
If all is OK, carefully adjust trimpots VR1 and VR2 for best sound
from the tuner; there should be no
noticeable distortion and sufficient
Fig.11: this drilling
template can be used
for marking out the
holes for the RCA
sockets and the DC
socket.
64 Silicon Chip
signal to be above any background
noise. Set VR3 so that the left and
right channels are correctly balanced
(ie, equal in loudness).
Adjusting VC1 for best range
The variable capacitor, VC1,
feeding the antenna will need to be
adjusted for best transmission range.
Connect the antenna you intend using
to the transmitter and disconnect the
receiver’s antenna (or move it as far
away as practical). Adjust trimmer
VC1 for best signal strength in the
receiver. If you cannot remove the
antenna on the receiver, it will be
necessary to place it about 20 metres
or more from the transmitter and then
adjust VC1 for best reception, as best
you can.
The ultimate range for the Mini
Mitter depends on the orientation of
the 300Ω antenna, its height and the
sensitivity of the receiver. The 300Ω
dipole antenna transmits its signal
with maximum strength broadside to
the dipole. Similarly, the FM receiver
has best pickup broadside to its antenna. When using a single length of
wire as a 75Ω antenna, best range will
be obtained when both antenna and
receiver have the same orientation;
ie, both vertical or both horizontal.
Note that the FM MiniMitter will
Parts List
Fig.12: this is the actual size artwork for the PC board. It’s a good idea to check
your etched board against this pattern before installing any of the parts.
Fig.13: the front panel artwork. It too can be used as a drilling template.
not quite cover the full FM band with
the range of adjustment provided
by the slug in coil L1. To cover the
range between 105MHz and 108MHz,
you will need to change the 47pF
capacitors across L1 and L2 to 39pF.
Alternatively, to cover the range below 95MHz down to 88MHz, change
the 47pF capacitors to 56pF.
Again, these capacitors must be
NPO ceramic types (ie, zero temperature coefficient) to minimise frequency drift in the transmitter.
If the FM MiniMitter will only be
used with batteries, you can remove
the DC socket and zener diode ZD1
and use a wire link in place of the 56Ω
resistor. This will marginally improve
cell life by preventing current flow
through the zener and also remove
the slight voltage drop across the
56Ω resistor.
Connecting a mono source
Even though the FM MiniMitter
is specifically designed for stereo
transmission, you may want to use
it with a mono source. What do you
have to do?
If you want reception in both
channels on a stereo tuner or radio,
you must connect the mono signal
to the left and right channel inputs.
The simplest way to do this is to use
a mono to stereo bridging lead which
will have three RCA connectors (one
for the input and two for the outputs).
You can make this up yourself or purchase it as an accessory from kitset
suppliers (eg, Jaycar Cat WA-7054)
or from hifi stores.
Of course, if you have a stereo
tuner which can be switched to mono
mode, the above course will not be
necessary. In this case, you can simply
connect the mono source to the left or
right channel input on the MiniMitter.
Note that operating in mono will
also give a slightly better signal-toSC
noise ratio.
1 PC board, code 06104011,
122 x 60mm
1 plastic case, 67 x 130 x 44mm
1 front panel label, 127 x 64mm
1 PC-mount DC socket
1 stereo PC-mount RCA sockets
or two insulated RCA sockets
1 SPDT toggle switch (S1)
1 2-way screw loudspeaker
terminal panel
2 AA cell holders
2 ferrite slug coil formers (L1,L2)
2 F29 ferrite screw slugs
1 6mm balun core
1 38kHz crystal (X1)
2 M3 x 6mm screws
7 PC stakes
1 60mm length of 0.5mm enamel
copper wire
1 100mm length of red light
gauge hookup wire
1 100mm length of black light
gauge hookup wire
1 100mm length of medium duty
hookup wire
1 90mm length of 0.8mm tinned
copper wire
Semiconductors
1 BA1404 stereo FM transmitter
IC (IC1)
1 3.3V 1W zener diode (ZD1)
Capacitors
1 100µF 16VW PC electrolytic
2 10µF 16VW PC electrolytic
2 4.7µF 16VW PC electrolytic
3 .01µF ceramic
3 .001µF MKT polyester
1 .001µF ceramic
1 330pF ceramic
2 47pF NP0 ceramic (see text)
2 15pF NP0 ceramic
1 10pF ceramic
1 3-10pF trimmer capacitor
(VC1)
Trimpots
2 2kΩ horizontal trimpots (code
202) (VR1,VR2)
1 50kΩ horizontal trimpot (code
503) (VR3)
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
1 100kΩ
1 2.7kΩ
2 47kΩ
1 56Ω
2 10kΩ
2 10Ω
April 2001 65
This “intelligent”
Nicad battery charger
was designed for
high-current,
rapid-charge
applications, such as
cordless power tools
and model racing
cars. It’s just the shot
for recharging battery
packs ranging from
7.2V to 14.4V.
By PETER HAYLES
Intelligent Nicad Battery
Charger for Power Tools
A
S A KEEN HANDYMAN, I
have a number of power tools,
including a few cordless types
that run off nicad battery packs. These
battery packs range from 7.2V to 14.4V
and almost inevitably contain Sanyo
or Panasonic nicad cells, regardless
of the brand of the tool itself.
Properly treated, these battery
packs should be good for hundreds of
charges and can potentially last many
years. Unfor
tunately, proper nicad
chargers are usually expensive and
the cheap chargers supplied with the
original equipment often incorrectly
charges the cells and dramatically
shortens their life.
66 Silicon Chip
Recently, I found that my 2-year-old
9.6V cordless drill battery wouldn’t
perform to its rated capacity after
charging. Unfortunately, battery packs
are fairly expensive to replace, sometimes costing almost as much as the
entire drill kit – and that’s if you can
purchase the battery pack separately
at all. Often, you will simply be told
to just “buy a new drill”.
In fact, it is far cheaper to purchase
your own cells and manufacture a
“new” battery pack using the old
case. This involves soldering leads
between the battery tags to connect
them in series. Note, however, that
you should never solder directly to
the cell cases – that can damage them
and is quite dangerous.
In selecting replacement cells, I
researched the manufacturer’s specifications on charging and guess what?
– the battery charger that came with
the drill didn’t comply with these
specifications. Instead, the supplied
charger is a very simple device that
applies a constant current to the battery pack and doesn’t cut out once the
pack is fully charged.
As a result, once the cells are fully
charged, the battery starts to heat and
the internal pressure builds up. This
can lead to permanent cell damage
and in serious cases, the battery can
rupture or vent electrolyte.
Having paid good money for a new
battery pack, I decided to design a new
charger that would not damage the
battery. In particular, I wanted a charger that not only met the specifications
but would also sense the condition of
cells and charge accordingly.
In short, I wanted to be able to
“throw” the pack on the charger and
know that it would be “good” the next
time I reached for it. And that meant
it had to be fully automatic, with no
switches to set.
Meeting these requirements also
meant that the charger required some
inbuilt “intelligence”, so logic control
circuitry was required. At the same
time, I wanted to keep the design
as simple as possible and keep the
component count down – after all,
reducing the size of a PC board and the
number of holes in it leads to major
cost savings.
In the end, I decided on a very
simple 1-chip design based on a PIC
microcontroller (PIC is a registered
trademark of MicroChip and refers
to a range of microcontrollers). That
way, it’s the software that’s programmed into the PIC that does all the
hard work. If you don’t have a PIC programmer, don’t panic! – programmed
PICs to suit this design are available
inexpensively from the author.
Other than this, only a few commonly available components are
required to complete this project.
The “all-up” cost should be about $60
which is a lot cheaper than your next
battery pack!
Nicad characteristics
Even if you don’t want to build this
charger, you can still learn how to get
the most from your nicad batteries.
To start with, a “cell” is defined as
a single vessel containing electrodes
and electrolyte for generating current.
A battery consists of two or more
cells. Nicad cells are rated at 1.2V
for design purposes, although they
normally develop about 1.25V and
require a charging voltage of 1.5V
(during full charge).
Nicad cells can supply very large
amounts of current and display a
remarkably flat discharge characteristic, maintaining a consistent 1.2V
throughout discharge. The voltage
then drops quite suddenly and a cell
is almost completely flat at 0.8V. This
is called the “knee” characteristic
because of the shape of the graph of
voltage against time.
Nicad battery capacity is rated in
mAh (milliampere-hours) and is commonly referred to as “C” – ie, it can
supply 1C mA for 1 hour, 2C mA for 30
minutes, etc. Three different charging
techniques are commonly employed:
trickle charging whereby the battery
is “topped up” at 3.3% of C to 5% of
C; slow charging at 10-20% of C; and
fast charging at 50-100% of C.
Slow charges are not meant to be
continually applied and since nicad
Below: the unit is easy to build since
virtually all the parts are on the PC
board. Keep the wiring neat and tidy
by using cable ties and note that the
large metal diecast case is necessary
for heatsinking.
April 2001 67
Fig.1: this flow chart shows the
basic operation of the software
that’s programmed into the PIC
microcontroller.
batteries are about 66% efficient, this
type of charging normally takes about
8-15 hours. On the other hand, fast
charges at 100% of C should be terminated after about 1.5 hours, assuming
that the battery is flat to begin with.
Once a battery is fully charged, it
produces gas and this creates a high
internal pressure and a sudden rise
in tempera
ture. At this point, the
battery should be switched to trickle
charging, otherwise it will begin to
vent and release its electrolyte. And
that permanently damages the cells.
As a matter of interest, my old battery was rated at C = 1300mAh and my
old charger was rated 400mA (30%
of C). This means that the charger
should have been switched off after
about four hours, provided that the
battery was almost flat to begin with.
However, there is no way of knowing if C was actually 1300mAh or if
it had decreased a bit. Once a battery
starts to deteriorate, it becomes a
vicious cycle and the battery then
deteriorates rapidly due to more and
more overcharging. According to the
manufacturer, the cells supplied with
my drill should have been good for
500-1000 cycles if properly treated!
The memory effect
Possibly the biggest misconception
that surrounds Nicad cells is a result
of the so-called “memory effect”.
Almost every one quotes it as the
reason that cells have to be completely
flattened (ie, to 0V) before charging –
otherwise they develop some sort of
memory and can only hold a partial
charge from there on.
The “memory effect” was discovered during the early days of satellites.
They used solar cells to charge nicad
batteries and these batteries were
subjected to precise charge/discharge
cycles many hundreds of times, as the
satellite alternated between darkness
and sunlight during its orbit. However, memory effect isn’t a problem if the
charge/discharge cycles are varied – it
certainly isn’t a significant problem in
normal home usage.
Although it may be OK (but not really a good idea) to discharge individual
cells to 0V, this is certainly not recommended for an entire battery of cells.
The reason is simple – when a battery
is discharged below 0.8V per cell,
one of the cells is inevitably weaker
than the others and goes to 0V first.
If the battery is further flattened, this
68 Silicon Chip
Fig.2: the PIC microcontroller (IC1) is at the heart of the circuit. It continually
samples the battery voltage and outputs a PWM waveform which controls
constant current source REG2 via transistor Q1.
battery becomes reverse charged (ie,
it reverses polarity) and this weakens
it even further. This creates an effect
called “voltage depression” and it’s
quite common in battery packs that
are treated this way.
Eventually, the battery’s performance drops off quite sud
d enly
which ironically is the very thing
that the user is trying to prevent.
Preventing this problem is quite
straightforward – don’t discharge the
battery to 0V.
Most users know where the battery’s “knee” occurs; it is when the
tool first starts to show signs that
the battery performance (and hence
battery voltage) is suddenly dropping. It is a good idea to immediately
recharge the battery from this point.
Usually, there will be less than 5% of
C remaining anyway.
One other thing – Nicad batteries
don’t like getting too hot or too cold.
They will not take a full charge and
they actually discharge (even under
no load) much faster when over 40°C
or below 0°C. For this reason, you
should avoid leaving cordless tools
inside a hot car. In addition, a nicad
battery pack builds up internal heat
when working, so don’t over-work
the tool.
Nicad batteries should also be left to
cool down for a while after discharge
before recharging them. Note also that
Nicad batteries do self-discharge and
the rate is also temperature related.
As a rule of thumb, they will hold a
full charge (with no load) for about a
month or two but when they get old
or hot, they might only last a day.
So what can you learn from this?
The rules are:
(1). Don’t flatten a nicad battery
below 0.8V per cell.
(2). Don’t overcharge your battery
beyond 100% of C.
(3). Nicads don’t like to get too hot
or too cold (0-40°C is usually best).
Nicad charging
The nicad batteries used in cordless
tools and model racing cars generally
have a value of “C” ranging from 10003000mAh. The first step is to determine what “C” is for your cells. You
can do that either by directly inspecting the cells (assuming that the battery
pack can be easily disassembled) or
by contacting the manufacturer for
the part number. The value for “C”
is often included in the part number
and its specifications can be checked
out on the manufacturer’s website.
For my new battery, the value for
“C” was 1700mAh. Note that the “C”
of the individual cells is the same as
the “C” of the complete battery.
When designing a charger, you
should first consider how the cells
are to be used. For power tool and
model car applications, the charge
use is termed “cycle use” because
the battery is repeatedly charged and
discharged. In addition, the charge
time required is usually as fast as
possible – ie, between 1 and 2 hours.
My batteries were capable of
taking a fast charge of 100% of C,
which equates to 1.7A. Despite this,
I conservatively selected 1.25A as my
charge current because I wanted to
be able to charge 1300mAh (1.3Ah)
batteries as well. This value should be
OK for most readers and it doesn’t really matter if it is a bit less than 100%
of C, because the charger will eventually detect a peak anyway. However,
some readers will want to adjust the
maximum charging current and this
procedure is described later on.
For “cycle use”, there are two
recommended methods of detecting
charge termination – either using a
temperature sensor in the battery pack
or using a “negative delta V” cutoff
system. The temperature technique
relies on detecting the sudden rise in
battery temperature when the battery
is fully charged and using this to shut
down the charger. There is nothing
wrong with doing this but battery
packs do not always come with temperature sensors built in. Furthermore
those that do, often sense the temper
ature of one cell only.
The “negative delta V” system reApril 2001 69
Fig.3: follow this wiring diagram to build the Intelligent Nicad Charger. Make sure that all semiconductors are correctly orientated and note that the 1Ω 5W resistor should be mounted slightly
proud of the PC board, to aid cooling.
lies on the fact that the battery voltage
peaks and then drops about 15-20mV
per cell when fully charged. This
charger will detect a minimum peak
of about 84mV and so can be used
to charge battery packs ranging from
7.2V to 14.4V (ie, 6-12 cells). Note
that the upper limit is determined
by the maximum output voltage of
the charger.
No matter how discharged the
battery is, this technique will give
enough charge to restore the battery
to its full state. The battery is then
continually “topped up” with a trickle
charge to prevent slow leakage due to
its internal resistance.
Another thing to consider is the
requirement to let the battery cool
down before recharging. If a battery is
hot, its output voltage will rise slightly as it cools. This battery charger is
programmed to wait until the battery
voltage is stable for about 30 seconds
before starting to charge. If the battery
has just come off discharge and is
hot, it may take a minute or so for the
charge to begin to start.
In addition, new batteries may
show false peaks during the first four
minutes of charging. For this reason,
the charger starts with a slow “soft
start” charge for four minutes, to
allow the battery to cool and get past
this point.
In order to make the unit fully
70 Silicon Chip
automatic, it also automatically detects when a battery is connected for
charging. There’s just one proviso
here – the battery voltage must be
above 2V (open circuit) for the charger
to recognise it. If a battery pack is discharged to 0V, it won’t be recognised
and the charger won’t start.
In practice, this isn’t a problem
since a cordless tool or model car
stops working altogether when the
pack gets down to about half voltage
(ie, 3.6V for a 7.2V pack, or 7.2V for
a 14.4V pack). Of course, no-one uses
a tool until it stops working altogether – instead, the battery is placed on
charge as soon as there is a marked
deterioration in performance.
The charging algorithm used by the
PIC microcontroller is shown in Fig.1.
Note that the first LED is on continually during the “bulk charge” process,
while the second LED indicates the
type of charge being applied.
The operation of the charger is fairly straightforward. Normally, when
the charger is switched on, both LEDs
flash once. The charger then waits in
standby mode until a battery is connected. Once a battery is connected,
the charger progresses though several
modes: ie, cool, soft, fast and trickle.
At the end of the charging process,
the battery can be left on trickle
charge indefinitely, or removed from
the charger at this point. When the
battery is removed, the charger reverts
to standby.
Basic operation
Fig.4: this diagram shows the
mounting details for the LM317K
regulator (REG2). Make sure that
it is electrically isolated from the
case.
Fig.2 shows the full circuit details
of the Nicad Battery Charger. It uses
a PIC microcontroller (IC1) to generate a pulse width modulated (PWM)
waveform and this signal switches
a constant current supply based on
REG2 which is used to charge the
battery.
In operation, the PIC microcontroller senses the battery voltage and
converts this to a digital value using
an internal A/D (analog-to-digital)
converter. It then adjusts its PWM
output signal to control the charging
rate accordingly. It also drives the two
LEDs, to indicate the charging status.
The smallest and cheapest microcontroller that could be used to
perform the A/D conversion and still
have the necessary func
tions and
control lines is the PIC16C711. This
device is an 8-bit, high-performance
4MHz CPU and it includes four A/D
converter stages, a brown-out timer
and a watchdog timer.
The timers are used to reset the
chip if problems occur due to power
transients or interruptions.
The PIC16C711 comes in an 18pin dual-in-line package and has a
“massive” 1K words of program memory and 68 bytes of data. It’s hardly
enough to load Windows 2000 but it’s
quite enough for a relatively simple
control program.
Circuit details
OK, let’s look at how the circuit
works in greater detail. As shown, the
circuit runs off an AC plugpack and
its output is fed to a bridge rectifier
(BR1) and a 4700µF filter capacitor.
This capacitor reduces the DC ripple
to about 1V under full load (1.5A).
REG1, a 7805 3-terminal regulator,
produces the +5V rail for the PIC
microcontroller. A 0.1µF capacitor
is used to decouple this rail.
Crystal X1 and its associated 27pF
capacitors provide a stable and accurate 4MHz timebase for IC1. This
is necessary to ensure accurate time
delay functions for charging. The
two LEDs (LED1 & LED2) are driven
directly from pins 8 & 9 of IC1 via
100Ω current limiting resistors.
Pin 18 (RA1/AN1) is used to “sense”
the battery voltage. This input samples the battery voltage via a voltage
divider consisting of 3.3kΩ and 1kΩ
resistors. These resistors are neces
sary to “divide” the battery charging
voltage of about 0-21.5V down to
0-5V, which is the range of the PIC’s
A/D converter.
Note that the PIC uses an 8-bit A/D
converter, so we have 256 (28) possible values. This gives us a resolution
of 21.5/256 = 84mV which means that
a 6-cell (7.2V) pack is the smallest
pack that the charger will peak detect.
The PWM waveform from IC1
appears at pin 6 (RB0) and drives
switching transistor Q1 via a 3.3kΩ
resistor. Q1 in turn drives the ADJ terminal of REG2, an LM317K adjustable
3-terminal regulator.
In operation, the LM317 maintains
a constant 1.25V between its OUT
pin and the ADJ pin. In this circuit, a
1Ω 5W resistor is connected between
these two terminals and this ensures
that a constant 1.25A is applied to the
battery pack.
If necessary, you can adjust this
value to suit your appli
cation. All
you have to do is choose the charging
current that you want and use Ohm’s
Law (V = IR) to calculate the resistor
value; ie, divide 1.25V by the current
that is recommended for full charge.
For example, a 0.68Ω resistor will
provide a charging current of about
1.7A, while 1.2Ω will provide 1A.
The circuit works like this: when
Q1 is biased on, it effectively pulls
the ADJ pin of REG2 to ground and
so the output of REG2 will only be
at about 1.25V. However, very little
current will flow in the output since
D1 is reverse biased and there is a 1kΩ
resistor in series between the 1Ω 5W
resistor and the ADJ terminal. In fact
Q1 is biased on by default, so that the
unit is “fail-safe”.
Conversely, when Q1 turns off due
to the PWM waveform from IC1, REG2
behaves as a constant current source
and it charges the battery pack via D1.
Diode D1 ensures that the battery
cannot discharge back into REG2 if
the power is accidentally turned off!
If the power is interrupted with a fully
charged pack, D1 isolates the output
circuit and the nicad battery will
slowly discharge through the 3.3kΩ
and 1kΩ voltage divider resistors.
When power is subsequently restored,
the charger will detect the voltage
peak again and return to trickle charge
after just a few minutes.
Built-in self-test
A final feature of the software is
that there is a “Built-In-Test” (BIT) on
power up. This effectively tests all the
components except the capacitors (ie,
more than 80% of the components).
During power up, if no battery is
detected (ie, less than 2V on the output), the output is turned on for one
second and the voltage checked. The
output is then turned off. If the voltage
does not reach at least 10V when high
and go below 2V when low, then an
error is detected. The LEDs are both
Parts List
1 aluminium diecast case, 171 x
121 x 55
1 PC board, 77.5 x 85mm
1 front panel label
1 4MHz parallel cut crystal (X1)
4 2-pin PC-mount terminal
blocks (4A, 0.2-inch pitch)
1 18-pin DIL IC socket
1 TO-3 insulating pad
2 TO3 insulating bushes
3 M3 x 12mm machine screws,
nuts & washers
4 M4 x 12mm machine screws,
nuts and washers
2 5mm LED bezels
1 5.5mm ID rubber grommet
1 2.5mm DC panel socket
1 2.5mm DC plug
1 4mm crimp lug
4 plastic cable ties
2 plastic cable tie mounts
3 300mm lengths heavy-duty
multistrand cable (red)
1 180mm length heavy-duty
multistrand cable (black)
1 200mm length heavy-duty
multistrand cable (white)
1 600mm length heavy-duty
figure-8 cable
Semiconductors
1 PIC16C711-04/P programmed
microcontroller (IC1)
1 BC548 transistor (Q1)
1 7805 3-terminal regulator
(REG1)
1 LM317K adjustable regulator
(REG2)
1 4A or 6A 400V single in-line
bridge rectifier (BR1) (DSE
Cat Z3310; Jaycar Cat ZR1360; Altronics Z0076)
1 1N5404 power diode (D1)
2 5mm red LEDs (LED1, LED2)
Capacitors
1 4700µF 35VW electrolytic
(36mm high)
1 0.1µF monolithic
2 27pF ceramic
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
2 3.3kΩ
3 1kΩ
2 100Ω
1 1Ω 5W wirewound
Miscellaneous
Thermal grease (see text),
heatshrink sleeving, solder.
April 2001 71
sinking for this device.
It’s a good idea to mount the 5W
resistor about 3mm proud of the
board, as it gets quite warm during
operation. This will allow the air to
circulate beneath it for cooling.
Unlike the other parts, the two
LEDs are mounted from the copper
side of the PC board. The top of each
LED should be about 13mm above
the board, so that they pass through
matching holes drilled in the base of
the case when the board is mounted
in position. Note: the base of the case
becomes the front panel.
Mounting REG2
The connecting cable for the battery pack emerges from a grommetted hole in
one end of the case. The adjacent socket is for the external AC plugpack supply.
powered on simultaneously during
this BIT. If there is an error the LEDs
then flash alternately.
This mode can be verified by
shorting the output on power up or
plugging in a battery during the BIT.
The error mode will also be invoked
and the LEDs will flash if no peak is
detected after three hours of main
charge. The unit will then time out
and switch off automatically.
Construction
All the parts except for REG2
are mounted on a PC board coded
14104011 and measuring 77.5 x
85mm. This board is mounted in a
substantial metal diecast case, which
is necessary to ensure adequate heatsinking for REG2.
Fig.3 shows how the parts layout
on the PC board. The board is easy to
assemble but take care with the orientation of Q1, IC1, D1 and the 4700µF
electrolytic capacitor. Pin 1 of IC1 is
adjacent to a small dot in the body at
one end of the device.
Regulator REG1 is mounted flat
against the PC board, with its leads
bent at right angles to pass through
the holes. It is secured to the board
using an M3 screw and nut and the
copper pad on the underside of the
board provides all the necessary heat
Fig.5: you can
make your own
PC board from this
full-size etching
pattern or buy a
ready made board
from RCS Radio.
72 Silicon Chip
The LM317 (REG2) is mounted on
the side of the aluminium diecast case
using a standard TO-3 insulating kit
to ensure electrical isolation. Fig.4
shows the mounting details.
Use the insulating pad as a template
to mark out the hole positions, then
drill the holes and use an oversize
drill to remove any metal swarf.
Carefully inspect the mounting area
to ensure that it is completely smooth
and free of any swarf before mounting the device, as a sharp edge could
“punch-through” the insulating pad
and short the device to the case.
The insulating pad can be either a
mica washer or a silicone impregnated washer. If you use a mica washer
be sure to smear all mating surfaces
with thermal grease to aid heat transfer, before bolting the assembly down.
Once the regulator is in position, use
your multimeter to confirm that its
metal body is indeed isolated from
the diecast case.
Note that the LM317 will dissipate
about 12W when charging smaller
batteries so don’t use a smaller case
than the one speci
fied, otherwise
the heatsinking will be inadequate.
If even higher power dissipation is
required (eg, if you are fast-charging at
more than 1.25A), then REG2 should
be fitted to a substantial heatsink.
Once the board assembly has been
completed, it can be mounted inside
the case. To do this, you will need to
mark and drill out four 4mm holes for
the mounting screws, plus two holes
for the indicator LEDs. Another two
holes are required in one end of the
case to accept a small rubber grommet
(8mm) and the power socket.
The PC board is mounted on 10mm
standoffs and secured using four M4 x
12mm countersunk screws, nuts and
washers. Note that the screws must
have countersunk heads, because they
have to go under the label. The two
LEDs should be pushed into matching holes in the case as the board is
mounted, with their tops just flush
with the case surface.
The internal wiring is shown in
Fig.3 and the photo. The external
lead to the battery pack is run out
via the 5.5mm ID grommet and is
fitted with a 2.5mm DC power plug.
The AC power leads are connected
to an adjacent 2.5mm panel socket
(note: choose a size that suits your
AC plugpack supply).
To ensure reliability, it’s a good
idea to secure the wiring using four
cable ties. Two of these cable ties pass
through cable tie mounts, as shown
in the photo.
Finally, the front panel label can be
affixed in position. The two LED can
be dressed up by fitting plastic bezels
if you wish.
Testing & operation
This unit requires a 24VAC input to
charge 14.4V batteries, although only
16VAC is required to charge anything
smaller. The AC power source must
be rated at the chosen supply current
or better – typically 1.5-2A. This can
come from an external AC plugpack
supply.
The bridge rectifier and 4700µF
filter capacitor should produce about
1.4 times the AC RMS input. So if
using a 16VAC supply, the main rail
should be about 22VDC. If using
24VAC, this rail should be about
30VDC. You should also check that
the 5V rail is present at the output of
REG1 and that there is at least 2.5V
across the LM317, the 1Ω current
sensing resistor and diode D1.
For the connection to the battery,
I used my existing charger pack after
first removing the internal circuitry –
which was no more than a transistor
and LED to indicate that current was
being delivered. For power connections, EIAJ DC voltage connectors and
plugs are standard, with the positive
usually being the centre pin.
The front panel artwork includes a
legend that explains all the possible
states for the LED indicators. If both
LEDs are flashing, it indicates that
there has been an “error”. This simply means that the unit has failed to
detect a peak voltage as the battery
pack charged and has timed out (ie,
Fig.6: the front panel artwork shows the mounting points for the PC board and
indicator LEDs and also indicates the LED flash codes.
after three hours) but this should
rarely happen.
Conclusion
This unit has halved the charging
time for my drill battery pack, from
3-4 hours to 1.5 hours maximum. It’s
nice to know that I can now “throw”
the battery pack on the charger and
that it will be fully charged and the
next time I want to use it – and that’s
SC
the way it should be.
Where TO BUY PARTS
A programmed PIC microcontroller for this project is available from the author
for $A20 plus $A5 for post and packaging (in Australia). Payment may be
made by bank cheque or money order. Contact: Peter Hayles at peterhayles<at>hotmail.com
Note: copyright of the PIC software and PC board associated with this design
is retained by the author. Individuals can make their own PC boards on a
one-off basis or purchase a board from RCS Radio – phone (02) 9738 0330.
April 2001 73
COMPUTER TIPS: Making ICS Work For You
Tweaking Internet
Connection Sharing
by GREG SWAIN
ICS Remote Disconnection Utility
Internet Connection Sharing (ICS)
– included with Windows 98SE and
Windows Me – allows a host computer
to share its Internet connection with
other PCs on a network. However,
apart from demand dialling, it gives
the clients no control over the Internet
connection.
This free “Remote Disconnection
Utility” (RDU) allows users on client
machines to easily connect and disconnect the host from the Internet.
What’s more, it notifies other users of
any intention to close down, so that
they can prevent the disconnect.
RDU also allows users to "lock" a
connection, to prevent disconnects
Changing The Host IP Address
By default, when ICS is installed,
the host computer (the one with the
modem) is assigned a fixed IP address
of 192.168.0.1. But what if you want
to change this because another computer on the network already has this
address?
The first step is to assign a new IP
address to the network card. Launch
the Network applet from Control
Panel, then select the TCP/IP entry
Disabling The DHCP Service
There are several reasons why you
might want to turn off the DHCP
service that’s installed by default
with ICS on the host PC, including
avoiding conflicts with other DHCP
servers on a network.
To do this, launch the Registry
Editor (Start, Run, Regedit) and drill
down to HKEY–LOCAL–MACHINE,
System, Current Control Set, Services, ICS Sharing, General and
right-click the “Enable DHCP” entry
in the Data pane. Click modify from
74 Silicon Chip
while they are away
from their machines,
and includes a simple messaging utility. It is automatically launched at start-up and minimised
to the System tray.
The latest version of rdusetup.exe
(1.75Mb) is available from Twiga Limited’s web site at www.twiga.ltd.uk
for your network card and click Properties. Enter the new IP address – eg,
192.168.0.5 – and click OK, then follow the bouncing ball to restart your
computer (it’s a Windows tradition;
why does Santa Claus wear a red suit?).
The next step is to launch the
Registry Editor (Start, Run, Regedit)
and drill down to HKEY–LOCAL–
MACHINE, System, Current Control
Set, Services, ICS Sharing, General.
Right-click the “IntranetInfo” entry
and modify the data value of the first
the drop down list, change the data
value to 0 and click OK.
When you restart the machine, the
DHCP service will be disabled.
You can now give the clients static
IP addresses. Give each client a unique
address in the range from 192.168.0.2
to 192.168.0.254 and assign each a
subnet mask of 255.255.255.0.
Finally, enable DNS on each client,
and add 192.168.0.1 (ie, the IP address of the host) to the DNS Server
Search Order, then click the Gateway
tab and enter a default gateway of
192.168.0.1.
A message with a countdown timer
pops up on other machines when a
user makes a request to disconnect.
number (before the comma) to the new
IP address of the host (in this case,
192.168.0.5). Finally, go to HKEY–
LOCAL–MACHINE, System, Current
Control Set, Services, ICS Sharing,
Addressing, Settings and modify the
Start value to the second address in the
IP range; ie, to 192.168.0.6 (the DHCP
service will now hand out addresses
starting from this number).
Take care with Registry hacks – the
risk is all yours. Alternatively, you
can use a third party configuration
utility such as ICScfg (see panel next
page).
GENERAL TIPS
ICS Configuration Utility For Port Mapping & Other Hacks
Disable the Down Arrows in
Windows Me’s Start Menu
for the Hangup Timer is 300
seconds and it’s usually not a
bad idea to increase this to 600
seconds (10 minutes)
Note, however, that ICS
defaults to disconnecting after
either this time or after the
“Disconnect if idle” setting in
If you’re not too confident about
hacking the Registry, this handy
ICS configuration utility could be just
the shot. It’s called ICScfg (written
by Harley Acheson) and you can
download it free of charge from
www.practicallynetworked.com
(icscfginst.exe; about 1Mb).
ICScfg can be used to add, close
and otherwise manage ports in ICS.
This makes it easy to close down
port that are normally enabled by
ICS but are not required for your application, for example. Closing down
unused ports can give increased
security against hackers.
ICScfg also makes it easy to enable or disable the DHCP service,
enable or disable auto-dialling and
adjust the hangup time (ie, the idle
disconnect timer). The default value
Do you hate the way Windows
Me hides entries in the Start menu
for programs that you haven’t used
recently? Clicking on those double-headed down arrows to reveal
them again can be a real pain.
Fortunately, this feature is easy to
disable. Just right-click the Taskbar,
choose Properties and uncheck the
“Use personalised menu” entry –
see below.
Internet Explorer, which ever is the
shorter.
Other facilities include the ability to
view the ICSlog.txt file and to change
the range of IP addresses handed out
by the DHCP service.
By the way, ICScfg does nothing
that cannot be achieved by manually
hacking the registry – it just makes it
easier to do.
Finally, note that this utility is for
Windows 98SE and Windows Me
only; it doesn’t work under Windows
2000.
Logging ICS sessions
Logging can be handy when it comes
to troubleshooting unwanted dial-outs
with ICS. The amount of information
supplied is minimal but at least you
can check the dial-out times.
To enable logging, fire up the Registry Editor, go to HKEY–LOCAL–MACHINE, System, Current Control Set,
Services, ICS Sharing, General and
change the data value for the “Enable
Logging” entry from 0 to 1.
When you reboot, ICS will write
Making ICS Demand Dial
If ICS refuses to dial out on demand
when a client attempts to initiate a
session, check that the “Always dial
my default connection” option is enabled in Internet Explorer on the host
Keep Your Hard Disk Healthy
a log file to c:\windows\ICSlog.txt.
This file is renamed to ICSlog.old each
time you reboot. You can drag short
cuts to both these files to the desktop
to make them easy to access when
troubleshooting.
machine (click Tools, Internet Options,
Connections).
If that’s OK, check the DialupEntry
value for ICS in the registry. If it’s "",
change it to "x". Check also that the
DialOnDemand value is "1" and reboot
for the changes to take effect.
Applications that fail to close
down correctly can leave temporary
(.tmp) files littered on your hard disk.
To free up disk space and ensure
system stability, it’s a good idea to
regularly delete these.
To do this, shut down all applications, then delete all the *.tmp files
from your c:\windows\temp folder.
Note: never delete .tmp files if you
have applications open, otherwise
you could lose data.
It’s also a good idea to regularly
run the ScanDisk, Disk Defragment
er & Disk Cleanup utilities that come
with Windows Me/98 (click Start,
Programs, Accessories, System
Tools).
April 2001 75
Fig.1: this is the standard circuit for a
monostable using a 555.
Fig.2: the standard circuit for an
astable timer, is unchanged when using
the ZSCT1555.
A new 555 timer – it
operates down to 0.9V
The ubiquitous 555 timer has for most of its
life been manufactured in greater volumes
than any other linear IC. Zetex has now
produced a new variant of the timer chip
which is even more versatile and pulls less
power than a CMOS version.
By LEO SIMPSON
When it was first introduced by
Signetics back in the early 70s, the
555 seemed like a solution looking for
a problem. Given the job of producing
a circuit for it back then, as I worked
for “Electronics Australia”, I racked
my brains until I came up with a
photo-timer (published in May 1973).
Now, it seems inconceivable that
such a versatile device as the 555 could
have been regarded in this way. It is
now acknowledged by many as one of
the most successful ICs, perhaps only
equalled in fame by the 741 op amp.
The success of the 555 can be attributed to its flexibility, performance
and its ability to satisfy the timing
requirements of a huge number of ap76 Silicon Chip
plications. Over the years the original
555 has been supplemented by CMOS
versions which operate on much lower
current and at lower voltage.
The new 555 timer from Zetex takes
the performance to the next level – operation from a single cell, guaranteed
operation down to 0.9V and bipolar
technology.
To help with the design, Zetex
turned to its long-term associate Hans
Camenzind, of Array Design, California. He was responsible for the original
555 produced by Signetics.
The new version of the timer, called
the ZSCT1555, has the same pin-outs
as the original and with the simple
adjustment of external components
to set the frequency, its function is
just the same.
As an example, the following equations are used to calculate the values
of the external components for the familiar monostable and astable circuits
as shown in Fig.1 & Fig.2.
Monostable: time t = 1.63RAC
Astable: frequency f = 0.62/(RA + 2RB)C
As already noted, the most significant advantage of the new 555 timer
is its guaranteed operation down to
0.9V; better than any CMOS alternatives. This means that it can work
with a single cell and still give quite
good battery life (ie, down to 0.9V).
And even though the ZSCT1555 is a
bipolar device, it has a lower current
consumption than a CMOS version.
Assuming a 5V supply, a typical
CMOS 555 device (eg, 7555) draws
170µA while the new Zetex device
pulls 140µA, and at 1.5V just 75µA.
In addition, the output sink current
is better than that of CMOS versions,
up to a maximum of 100mA. Output
source current is 150µA (maximum).
Maximum supply voltage is 6V.
Thermal performance is improved
too, with a better temperature coeffi-
SUPPLY CURRENT (µA)
cient and an operating temperature
range of -20°C to 100°C.
The graph in Fig.3 shows the ZSCT
1555 quiescent current versus supply
voltage characteristic. As you can see,
the current consumption is very low
for supply voltages below 1V – ie, below 60µA – and this further extends
battery life. Of course, the actual
current drain from a timer circuit will
depend on the timing components and
the loading conditions at the output,
pin 3.
Single cell boost converter
Given that the ZSCT1555 will run
from a single cell, it is appropriate that
it can also function as the heart of a
single cell boost converter. For any
portable, battery-powered applica
tion, extended battery life is not the
only consideration. Reducing size and
weight is also very important. Until
recently it has been usual for portable
circuits to operate with up to six cells
(9V). With this circuit, only one cell
is required.
As shown, the circuit is set to deliver a nominal 5V. The ZSCT1555
generates the required 150kHz signal
for the PWM circuit while diode D1
allows for very short pulses to be
delivered.
Inductor L2, transistor Q3 and
Schottky diode D3 provide the main
boost converter circuit while L1, D2
and Q2 provide an active speed-up to
the base drive to Q3. This minimises
switching losses. The transistor specified for Q3 has very low saturation
voltage, equating to an on-resistance
of only 30mΩ at 300mA, which further
optimises circuit efficiency.
The output voltage is regulated by
the circuit involving U3, a shunt regulator, and Q4 which modulates the
SUPPLY VOLTAGE (V)
Fig.3: very low current drain and low voltage operation are the big advantages
of the ZSCT1555 version of the venerable 555 timer.
Looking for more
information on the
ZSCT1555 timer IC?
Point your browser to
www.zetex.com
control input on U2, the ZSCT1555.
Acknowledgement: this article is
based on an application note pub-
lished by Zetex plc, UK. The ZSCT
1555 is available from Farnell ComSC
ponents. Phone 1300 361 005.
Fig.4: capitalising on its low voltage operation, this boost circuit produces 5V from a single cell.
April 2001 77
VINTAGE RADIO
By RODNEY CHAMPNESS, VK3UG
A collector in the west: Keith Lang
Quite a few vintage radio enthusiasts now have
interesting and extensive collections of old radio
receivers. One such enthusiast is Keith Lang from
Western Australia.
A couple of years ago, during a trip
to Esperance in Western Australia, I
took the opportunity to visit vintage
radio enthusiast Keith Lang. Keith
retired from farming in 1993 at the
age of 69 and wanted an interesting
hobby to fill in some of his spare time.
Having been involved in radio and
electrical activities for most of his life,
he decided that vintage radio would
be a rewarding pastime.
Keith’s interest in radio started in
1934 at the tender age of 10, when he
built his first “wireless” – a crystal set
(doesn’t every collector start with a
crystal set?). The coil was wound on
a cocoa container which consisted of
a cardboard cylinder with metal ends
but it was the earth that was really
unusual. It consisted of an defunct car
radiator buried in the ground, with the
earth lead from the set connected to
it. Water was poured into the radiator
and, because of the many small holes
that leaked water and the large surface
area, it was very effective.
The aerial was the ubiquitous “long
and high” outdoors type, which was
typical of the era. However, like most
youngsters of the era (and grown-ups
too), Keith was reluctant to part with
seven shillings and sixpence for a
“wireless licence” for his crystal set.
Hence the antenna grew at night and
withered during the day.
When WWII came, Keith joined
the army and became involved with
Signals Maintenance and Training,
which meant he gained a good overall
knowledge of radio transmitters and
receivers. Some sets that he recalls
working with were the 11, 108 and
19 sets, all considerably more complex than the average radio receiver
of the day.
After the war, he became a motor
mechanic for a few years, then took
up farming. Many other activities
kept him busy when there was a lull
in farming activities, such as being a
motor mechanic, drilling 250 water
bores and generally, as he put it, being
a “jack of all trades”.
One interesting activity involved
rewinding Dodge car generators so
that they supplied 32V DC for home
lighting or DC voltages for other purposes. I saw one of the rewound armatures and it was most professionally
done. Many small towns in the 20s,
30s and 40s also had small DC power
reticulation systems and Keith had
quite a bit to do with them too.
High-voltage DC sets
This home-made kitset mantel receiver (circa 1946) came in a stylish wooden
case and has been fully restored. It featured inductance (Ferrotune) tuning.
78 Silicon Chip
There were both AC/DC and pure
DC sets in some of the areas in which
Keith lived, as many towns used only
250V DC supply reticulation. In fact,
this was still the case in Esperance
in 1958, when Keith moved there. Of
course, all DC mains supplies have
long since been replaced with 240V
AC mains.
In their time, DC mains supplies
served small towns quite well. In
some cases, the power was only on
for certain periods of the day and
would go off at night “after the flicks
had finished”. The power would then
come on again early in the morning. In
other cases, batteries were used during
periods of light load and/or to supply
energy during heavy load periods.
Keith is quick to point out the care
needed to service the AC/DC and pure
DC radios which ran off the 250V
DC mains. He strongly recommends
that restorers working on AC/DC sets
use an isolating transformer on AC
mains, as one side of the mains may
be connected to the chassis – and it
can easily be active 240V above earth!
This is deadly if you touch the chassis
and an earthed object at the same time.
Most such sets can easily be wired
so that the Neutral is attached to the
chassis, or the neutral busbar (if fitted)
– but always check. Isolation transformers cannot be used on DC mains
or pure DC receivers and servicemen
had to be extremely careful when
servicing such receivers.
(Editorial note: AC/DC sets in
which one side of the mains is directly
connected to chassis are “death traps”.
Do not operate or work on such sets
unless you are very experienced and
understand exactly what you are doing. The same goes for high-voltage
DC sets).
Another stylish receiver in Keith’s collection is this Philips table model.
Restoration
Keith especially enjoys restoring
wooden console cabinets, so that
they look like new. The internals are
treated with equal care – the sets are
often stripped down to a bare chassis
which he then sandblasts using a
special attachment he has for his air
compressor. A lathe is used to turn up
various parts and to wind coils and
power transformers.
A counter attached to the lathe is
used to count the number of turns
when winding a coil or transformer.
Unfortunately, not many vintage radio
collectors have this type of equipment
or the skill to use it.
There is also a good range of hand
tools and test instru
ments in the
workshop. These include digital and
analog multimeters, an oscilloscope
with a component testing facility, a
capacitance meter, a signal generator
and several valve testers. It is always
nice to have an extensive range of test
equipment for fault diagnosis and the
equipment necessary to make replacement parts.
Recently, Keith restored a 1933
Raycophone “Pee Wee” receiver. This
This multiband portable transistor radio included a flip-up lid with a world
map that showed the locations of major shortwave stations.
is a rather rare set and has a circuit
that’s similar to the simple superhets
described in the April 2000 issue.
After restoration, its performance
was initially quite poor and tracking
down this problem took some time.
In the end, it turned out to be an
incorrect resistor value in the cathode
of the converter stage. Replacing this
with the correct value resistor cured
April 2001 79
Keith’s collection includes a good range of early transistor radios, including a
compact “purse” receiver (next to the matchbox).
the problem and the set now performs
quite well.
Keith’s extensive vintage radio collection, like so many others, has grown
like “topsy” and very few of the sets
are displayed at their best – although
two lovingly restored consoles reside
in the lounge. One of these, shown in
one of the photos, is a 1935 AWA Bandmaster 365B battery console using a 34,
1A6, 34, 30, 32 and a 33 valve line-up.
The set is powered from the 240V AC
mains via one of Keith’s home-made
battery eliminators.
None of the many battery valve sets
in the collection has been converted
to direct mains operation. Instead, a
separate mains-operated DC supply
has been built for each set. Conversely, all the transistor portables
in the collection run on batteries as
it is easier to operate them this way
and saves dragging an AC lead along
with the set.
One of the photographs shows an
HMV 601 “portable” set (AORSM
Vol. 4 Page 147) which can operate
from four sources of power – inter-
A close-up view of the Ferrotune inductance tuning module (at left), as used in
the home-made receiver.
80 Silicon Chip
nal batteries, external batteries, an
external AC power supply and, most
interestingly of all, a 2V vibrator pack.
Yes, that is right, a 2V vibrator pack!
A considerable portion of Keith’s
collection consists of portable radios,
both valved and transistorised. The
valved portables include the following brands: Philips, Astor, Healing,
STC, AWA, HMV, Kriesler, Ferris and
an English “Dynatron”.
The smallest is a “purse” radio
which is smaller than a pack of cigarettes and is seen in a collection of
personal portables in one of the photographs. It boasts five transistors and
is powered by a single AA cell, since
there was no room for anything bigger.
The most elaborate Australian-made transistor sets are three AWA
units. These receivers appear to be
identical until a close inspection is
made. Two are broadcast band sets
with an RF stage but different dial
scales, while the third is a 4-band unit
which tunes from 550kHz to 30MHz.
Quite a number of small Japanese sets
are also tucked away on a shelf.
Car radios also feature strongly and
include examples from AWA, Ferris,
Philips, National and Astor. The intriguing ones are the Ferris M104 and
M106 models, which can be powered
from various sources.
Another unusual item is a homemade set using the Kingsley Ferrotune
front end kit, produced around 1946
(see photo). A few manufacturers
produced inductance tuned radios for
household use, such as Radio Corpo-
ration, Philips and AWA.
There are also a few black and
white TV sets in the shed waiting for
restoration but there are many more
radios in the queue ahead of them.
I asked if there were many collectors around the Esperance area and he
replied that he knew of only one. This
means that there is very little competition when it comes to obtaining sets at
reasonable prices. On the downside,
there is virtually no-one to share experiences or discuss problems with.
Keith has obtained his radios from
quite some distance in some instances
– eg, Albury (NSW) and Peterborough
(SA). Closer to home, sets have come
from Kalgoorlie and Boulder. Garage
sales are a good source of receivers
and generally keeping your eye out
for them and letting people know of
your interest will pay dividends. He
has no particular favourite set or style,
except that they should be wooden
cabinet radios from the mid 1930s
to early 1940s and Australian made.
Keith’s collection reflects a slightly different emphasis compared to
the average eastern states collector.
Some of the sets were different due
to local conditions, as was some of
the equipment used.
But basically we’re all interested
much in the same thing – the retention of our technical history and the
restoration of old receivers. It would
be interesting to swap experiences
with a vintage radio buff from across
SC
the Tasman!
Keith’s pride and joy is this 1935 AWA Bandmaster 365B battery operated set.
These three AWA transistor portables include
two broadcast band only units, while the
third also covers three shortwave bands.
April 2001 81
PRODUCT SHOWCASE
Fluke 180 Series Digital
Multimeters
Fluke Corporation has introduced
the model 187 and 189 digital multimeters which include RMS voltage,
temperature measurement, real time
clock, data logging and PC communication.
The 180 Series have .025% accuracy
and 50,000 counts of resolution. They
have a multiple reading display for
simultaneous readouts such as True
RMS, AC + DC, Hertz, dB, mV DC
and a real-time clock. Measurements
include volts, ohms, continuity, diode test, amps and capacitance, as
well as temperature in Celsius and
Fahrenheit.
In addition to relative mode and
Min/Max/Average, the 187 and
189 offer a Fast Min/Max mode for
capturing transients as short as 250
femtoseconds.
The Fluke 189 can be set up to cap-
ture and store measurement data while
unattended. In the logging mode, the
meter monitors all changes in the input signal and then stores a summary
of those changes based on a timed
interval, as well as the stability of the
measured signal. Once the logging
session is complete (up to three days),
the stored information is downloaded
to a PC using the optional FlukeView
Forms software.
The closed case calibration feature
of the 180 Series allows calibration
adjustments to be made directly from
the front panel or through the infrared
port. The battery access door enables
the user to change batteries and fuses
without breaking the calibration seal.
The new 180 Series DMMs meet the
IEC-61010 CAT III 1000V and CAT IV
600 V safety ratings and carry a dustproof and drip-proof environmental
rating.
A multi-language CD-ROM containing the user’s manual is also included
with the meter.
Contact:
Fluke Australia Pty Ltd
Phone: (02) 8850 3333
Fax: (02) 8850 3300
Website: www.fluke.com
Extech programmable
LCR meters
These new programmable LCR
meters from Extech are suited to
manual or fast automatic component
testing on production lines. Both can
provide comprehensive test reports
via an optional printer interface and
they include the following features:
100-test parameter data memory; hi/
lo limit setting and bin sorting.
The instruments measure impedance, inductance, capacitance and
dissipation factor, as well as equivalent series resistance (ESR) and DC
resistance. The model 8323 has test
frequencies of 100Hz, 120Hz, 1kHz
WebDAQ 32-channel
Data Logger
WebDAQ is the world’s first data
acquisition device to use embedded
web server technology. The benefit
compared to existing data logging
systems is that there is no driver to in82 Silicon Chip
and 10kHz while the model 8326
adds 100kHz and an optional swept
frequency mode from 40Hz to 200kHz.
Test fixtures available include
4-wire Kelvin clips, SMD test probes
and shorting bars.
stall. Simply plug WebDAQ into your
computer’s Ethernet port or a network
wall socket, open your web browser
and type in WebDAQ’s IP address.
WebDAQ’s flexibility and ease of
use makes it ideal for any data logging
applications, from laboratory and
research environments through to pro-
Contact:
Westek Electronics Pty Ltd
Phone: (03) 9369 8802
Fax: (03) 9369 8006
Website: www.westek.com.au
duction and process control. It’s main
features include: 500kHz throughput
with 12-bit accuracy on 32 channels,
eight D/A output channels, digital and
analog triggering, sampling at multiple
data rates simultaneously and builtin sensor scaling and conversion to
engineering units.
“how-to” video presented by Scott
Mueller.
Additional information, including frequently asked questions
and technology updates are available on the companion website www.
upgradingandrepairingpcs.com
The retail price is $99.89.
Easy-to-use screens let you config
ure your acquisition parameters, start
and stop operations and define data
reports. When you want your data,
just click and download the file the
same way you would download any
file from the internet. You can even
download directly into Excel.
WebDAQ can schedule automatic
reports and automatically email them
to any email address or upload data to
an FTP server for later use. WebDAQ
can also act as a workgroup server,
with multiple users accessing data
reports, with the added protection of
user passwords if required.
WebDAQ works in a PC, Mac, Unix
or Linux environment.
Contact:
Emona Instruments
Phone: 1 800 632 953
Fax: (02) 9550-1378
Website: www.emona.com.au
Reference book
for upgrading and
repairing PCs
Want to upgrade your PC?
Then have a
look at the 12th
edition of Scott
Mueller’s “Upgrading and Repairing PCs”,
now availa ble
from all Dick
Smith Electronics stores. This updated edition features new and revised illustrations,
including step-by-step photos showing how to build a PC from scratch.
There are also sections on how to
install a network in a home or small
office, how to supercharge a PC for
high-level game performance and how
to set up high-speed internet connectivity at home.
It comes with a 90-minute CD-ROM
Speaker ports for
bass reflex enclosures
Altronics have recently added three
new flared loudspeaker ports to their
range. The flared design reduces air
turbulence (the rushing noise) which
can occur when the air velocity in
the port exceeds about 5% the speed
of sound.
In simple terms, the flared port
allows you to produce loudspeaker
cabinets which have reduced distortion at high power levels compared to
conventional ports.
The ports are of ridged plastic construction and have a push-in mount
under the flare for flush mounting. Sizes and prices are $2.90 for the 35mm
diameter 120mm long model (Cat.
C-3627), $4.15 for the 50mm x 145mm
model (Cat C-3629) and $10.85 for the
100mm x 200mm model (C-3633).
Contact:
Altronics
Phone: 1 800 999 007
Website: www.altronics.com.au
or email retail<at>altronics.com
STEPDOWN
TRANSFORMERS
60VA to 3KVA encased toroids
Harbuch Electronics Pty Ltd
9/40 Leighton Pl. HORNSBY 2077
Ph (02) 9476-5854 Fx (02) 9476-3231
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***SEE OUR WEBSITE FOR SPECIALS
April 2001 83
BOOK REVIEWS
LE
Reference on acoustics
How to build small robots
The Master Handbook of Acoustics, by F. Alton Everest.
4th Edition, published 2001 by McGraw-Hill, USA. Soft
covers, 184 x 232mm, 616 pages. ISBN 0 07 136097 2.
Price $59.95.
The Robot Builder’s Bonanza; 99 inexpensive robotics
projects, by Gordon McComb. 2nd edition published 2001
by McGraw-Hill. Soft covers, 187 x 234mm, 754 pages.
ISBN 0 07 136296 7. Price $44.95.
This one of
the best books
on audio theory and practice
that I have ever
come across. It
is very readable and you can
pick it up virtually anywhere in
any chapter and
get useful information straight
away. There is
a minimum of
mathematics
and formulas so
that anyone from
the novice to an engineer will find it worthwhile.
All told there are 28 chapters plus an appendix so I am
not going to list all the contents; a sample will have to do.
The book starts off with some basic audio theory, sound
levels and the decibel, the ear and perception of sound.
It then goes on to cover speech, music and noise, analog
and digital signal processing (DSP), reverberation and
control of interfering noise.
From then on there are separate chapters on reflection,
diffraction, refraction and diffusion of sound, modal
resonances and reflections in enclosed spaces and comb
filter effects.
All of these chapters are of particular interest whether
you are professionally involved in acoustics or perhaps
you are doing home renovations and want to achieve
some control of the domestic acoustic environment.
As you read this book, you will find out that soft furnishings such as curtains and carpet have very little effect
on room acoustics, particularly at the lower frequencies.
If you want to make real progress you will have to play
around with Helmholtz resonators and other absorbers.
Other chapters are devoted to quiet air for the studio
(minimising air-con noise etc), acoustics of listening
rooms and small studios, acoustics of the control room
and for multi-track recording, adjustable acoustics,
acoustical distortion and finally room acoustics measurement software.
To sum up, if you are involved in acoustics in your
work or you are a keen audio enthusiast at home, this
book is very useful. I can thoroughly recommend it. Our
copy came direct from the publishers. (L.D.S.)
Most people wanting information on robotics these
days go directly to the inter-net and there is a heap of
information there.
However, sifting the wheat from the chaff is time-consuming and there is a great deal of chaff.
Hence this just released book from McGraw-Hill is very
timely. Note that it is written for the USA and mentions
parts outlets over there.
However, Australia appears to be much better served
with electronics parts retailers in the form of Dick Smith
Electronics, Jaycar Electronics, Altronics and other firms;
the poor Americans can only dream of how good it is in
Australia and New Zealand.
Having said that, you should find few problems in obtaining all the electronics parts or their equivalents. Some
of the mechanical parts may be a little more difficult but
the larger hardware stores and hobby shops are pretty
good in this respect. The servos discussed should present
no problems with availability.
Most of the robot projects described assume that you
have good metal-working skills and the same thing applies as far as electronics work is concerned. There are
no PC boards and it is assumed that you will assemble
all the circuits on protoboards or Vero board. Some of the
articles make use of Lego, Meccano and Fischer-Technik
parts and again, these are all available in Australia and
New Zealand.
None of the articles can be regarded as step-by-step
constructional
articles as you
would expect to
see in this magazine. Instead, you
are given a fairly brief overview
and then it is up to
you. There are lots
of photos (black
and white) but
they are fairly ordinary in quality
and lack contrast
and sharp detail.
All up, there are
42 chapters and
five appendices.
We’ll mention a
few of the chapter
84 Silicon Chip
(Continued on page 93)
ECTRONICSHOWCASELECT
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April 2001 85
REFERENCE
GREAT BOOKS FOR
AUDIO POWER AMP DESIGN HANDBOOK
INDUSTRIAL BRUSHLESS SERVOMOTORS
By Douglas Self. 2nd Edition Published 2000
85
$
By Peter Moreton. Publ. 2000
From one of the world’s most respected audio
authorities. The new 2nd edition is even more
comprehensive, includes sections on load-invariant power amps, distortion residuals, diagnosis of amplifier problems, and much more.
368 pages in paperback.
VIDEO SCRAMBLING AND DESCRAMBLING for
If you've ever wondered how they scramble video
on cable and satellite TV, this book tells you! Encoding/decoding systems (analog and digital systems),
encryption, even schematics and details of several
encoder and decoder circuits for experimentation.
Intended for both the hobbyist and the professional.
290 pages in paperback.
NEW 2nd
TCP/IP EXPLAINED
99
AUDIO ELECTRONICS
Satellite & Cable TV by Graf & Sheets
Edition 1998
$
By John Linsley Hood. First published 1995.
Second edition 1999.
65
$
This book is for anyone involved in designing,
adapting and using analog and digital audio
equipment. It covers tape recording, tuners and
radio receivers, preamplifiers, voltage amplifiers, audio power amplifiers, compact disc
technology and digital audio, test and measurement, loudspeaker crossover systems,
power supplies and noise reduction systems.
375 pages in soft cover.
By Philip Miller. Published 1997.
$
99
By Tim Williams. First published 1991
(reprinted 1997).
$
LOCAL AREA NETWORKS:
An Introduction to the Technology
65
Includes grounding, printed circuit design and layout, the characteristics of practical active and passive components, cables, linear ICs, logic circuits
and their interfaces, power supplies, electromagnetic compatibility, safety and thermal management. 302 pages, in paperback.
ELECTRIC MOTORS AND DRIVES
By John E. McNamara. 2nd edition 1996.
By Austin Hughes. Second edition
published 1993 (reprinted 1997).
69
$
For non-specialist users – explores most of
the widely-used modern types of motor and
drive, including conventional and brushless DC,
induction, stepping, synchronous and reluctance
motors. 339 pages, in paperback.
ESSENTIAL LINUX
EMC FOR PRODUCT DESIGNERS
99
Widely regarded as the standard text on EMC,
this book provides all the information necessary to meet the requirements of the EMC
Directive. It includes chapters on standards,
measurement techniques and design principles,
including layout and grounding, digital and
analog circuit design, filtering and shielding and
interference sources. The four appendices give
a design checklist and include useful tables,
data and formulae. 299 pages, in soft cover.
65
$
By Steve Heath. Published 1997.
By Tim Williams.
First published 1992. 2nd edition 1996.
$
85
$
THE CIRCUIT DESIGNER’S COMPANION
Assumes no prior knowledge of TCP/IP, only a basic
understanding of LAN access protocols, explaining
all the elements and alternatives. Combines study
questions with reference material. Examples of
network designs and implementations are given.
518 pages, in paperback.
Want to become more familiar with local area
networks (LANs) without facing the challenge of a
400-page text? . Gives familiarity with the
concepts involved and provides a start for reading
more detailed texts. 191 pages, in paperback.
Designed as a guide for professionals and
a module text for electrical and mechanical
engineering students. A step-by-step approach
covering construction, how they work, how the
motor behaves and how it is rated and selected.
It may only be a small book but it has outstanding content! 186 pages in hardback.
$
85
Provides all the information and software
that is necessary for a PC user to install and
use the freeware Linux operating system. It
details, setp-by-step, how to obtain and configure the operating system and utilities. It also
explains all of the key commands. The text is
generously illustrated with screen shots and
examples that show how the commands work.
Includes a CD-ROM containing Linux version
1.3 and including all the interim updates, basic
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UNDERSTANDING TELEPHONE ELECTRONICS
SETTING UP A WEB SERVER
By Stephen J. Bigelow.
Third edition published 1997 by Butterworth-Heinemann.
$
59
A very useful text for anyone wanting to
become familiar with the basics of telephone
technology. The 10 chapters explore telephone
fundamentals, speech signal processing,
telephone line interfacing, tone and pulse
generation, ringers, digital transmission
techniques (modems & fax
machines) and much more. Ideal for
students. 367 pages, in soft cover.
GUIDE TO TV & VIDEO TECHNOLOGY
By Eugene Trundle. First published 1988.
Second edition 1996.
Eugene Trundle has written for many years in
Television magazine and his latest book is right
up to date on TV and video technology. The
book includes both theory and practical servicing information and is ideal for both students
and technicians. 382 pages, in paperback.
$
59
SILICON CHIP'S
ELECTRONICS TEST BENCH
First published 2000
A collection of the “most asked for”
Test Equipment projects and features
from the pages of Australia’s “most
asked for” electronics magazine.
Exceptional value at
$10.95
O
R
D
E
R
H
E
R
E
P&P
AUDIO POWER AMPLIFIER DESIGN...............................$85.00
INDUSTRIAL BRUSHLESS SERVO MOTORS..................$99.00
VIDEO SCRAMBLING/DESCRAMBLING..........................$65.00
TCP/IP EXPLAINED.........................................................$99.00
LOCAL AREA NETWORKS...............................................$69.00
SETTING UP A WEB SERVER..........................................$69.00
THE CIRCUIT DESIGNER’S COMPANION........................$65.00
ELECTRIC MOTORS AND DRIVES...................................$65.00
UNDERSTANDING TELEPHONE ELECTRONICS.................$59.00
AUDIO ELECTRONICS.....................................................$85.00
GUIDE TO TV & VIDEO TECHNOLOGY............................$59.00
EMC FOR PRODUCT DESIGNERS...................................$99.00
DIGITAL ELECTRONICS ..................................................$65.00
ESSENTIAL LINUX..........................................................$85.00
SILICON CHIP TEST BENCH............................................$10.95
SILICON CHIP COMPUTER OMNIBUS............................$10.95
ORDER TOTAL: $......................
Orders over $100 P&P free in Australia.
AUST: Add $A5.50 per book
NZ: Add $A10 per book, $A15 elsewhere
By Simon Collin. Published 1997.
$
69
Covers all major platforms, software, links and
web techniques. It details each step required to
choose, install and configure the hardware and
software elements, create an effective site and
promote it successfully. 273 pages, in paperback
DIGITAL ELECTRONICS – A PRACTICAL APPROACH
By Richard Monk. Published 1998.
With this book you can learn the principles
and practice of digital electronics without
leaving your desk, through the popular
simulation applications, EASY-PC Pro XM
and Pulsar. Alternatively, if you want to discover the applications through a thoroughly
practical exploration of digital electronics,
this is the book for you. A free floppy disk is
included, featuring limited function versions
of EASY-PC Professional XM and Pulsar.
249 pages, in paperback.
65
$
SILICON CHIP'S
COMPUTER OMNIBUS
First published 1999
Hints, tips, Upgrades and Fixes for
your computer from articles published
in SILICON CHIP in recent years. Covers DOS, Windows 3.1, 95, 98 and
NT. A must for the computer user.
$10.95 INC GST
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Silicon Chip
Back Issues
April 1989: Auxiliary Brake Light Flasher; What You Need to Know
About Capacitors; 32-Band Graphic Equaliser, Pt.2.
May 1989: Build A Synthesised Tom-Tom; Biofeedback Monitor
For Your PC; Simple Stub Filter For Suppressing TV Interference.
July 1989: Exhaust Gas Monitor; Experimental Mains Hum Sniffers; Compact Ultrasonic Car Alarm; The NSW 86 Class Electrics.
September 1989: 2-Chip Portable AM Stereo Radio (Uses
MC13024 and TX7376P) Pt.1; High Or Low Fluid Level Detector;
Studio Series 20-Band Stereo Equaliser, Pt.2.
October 1989: FM Radio Intercom For Motorbikes Pt.1; GaAsFet
Preamplifier For Amateur TV; 2-Chip Portable AM Stereo Radio,
Pt.2.
November 1989: Radfax Decoder For Your PC (Displays Fax, RTTY
& Morse); FM Radio Intercom For Motorbikes, Pt.2; 2-Chip Portable
AM Stereo Radio, Pt.3; Floppy Disk Drive Formats & Options.
July 1993: Single Chip Message Recorder; Light Beam Relay
Extender; AM Radio Trainer, Pt.2; Quiz Game Adjudicator; Windows-Based Logic Analyser, Pt.2; Antenna Tuners – Why They Are Useful.
August 1993: Low-Cost Colour Video Fader; 60-LED Brake Light Array;
Microprocessor-Based Sidereal Clock; A Look At Satellites & Their Orbits.
September 1993: Automatic Nicad Battery Charger/Discharger; Stereo
Preamplifier With IR Remote Control, Pt.1; In-Circuit Transistor Tester;
+5V to ±15V DC Converter; Remote-Controlled Cockroach.
April 1991: Steam Sound Simulator For Model Railroads; Simple
12/24V Light Chaser; Synthesised AM Stereo Tuner, Pt.3; A Practical
Approach To Amplifier Design, Pt.2.
May 1991: 13.5V 25A Power Supply For Transceivers; Stereo Audio
Expander; Fluorescent Light Simulator For Model Railways; How To
Install Multiple TV Outlets, Pt.1.
July 1991: Loudspeaker Protector For Stereo Amplifiers; 4-Channel
Lighting Desk, Pt.2; How To Install Multiple TV Outlets, Pt.2; Tuning
In To Satellite TV, Pt.2.
September 1991: Digital Altimeter For Gliders & Ultralights; Ultrasonic
Switch For Mains Appliances; The Basics Of A/D & D/A Conversion;
Plotting The Course Of Thunderstorms.
October 1991: Build A Talking Voltmeter For Your PC, Pt.1; SteamSound
Simulator For Model Railways Mk.II; Magnetic Field Strength Meter;
Digital Altimeter For Gliders, Pt.2; Military Applications Of R/C Aircraft.
January 1990: High Quality Sine/Square Oscillator; Service Tips
For Your VCR; Phone Patch For Radio Amateurs; Active Antenna
Kit; Designing UHF Transmitter Stages.
November 1991: Colour TV Pattern Generator, Pt.1; A Junkbox 2-Valve
Receiver; Flashing Alarm Light For Cars; Digital Altimeter For Gliders,
Pt.3; Build A Talking Voltmeter For Your PC, Pt.2; A Turnstile Antenna
For Weather Satellite Reception.
February 1990: A 16-Channel Mixing Desk; Build A High Quality
Audio Oscillator, Pt.2; The Incredible Hot Canaries; Random Wire
Antenna Tuner For 6 Metres; Phone Patch For Radio Amateurs, Pt.2.
December 1991: TV Transmitter For VCRs With UHF Modulators;
Infrared Light Beam Relay; Colour TV Pattern Generator, Pt.2; Index
To Volume 4.
March 1990: Delay Unit For Automatic Antennas; Workout Timer
For Aerobics Classes; 16-Channel Mixing Desk, Pt.2; Using The
UC3906 SLA Battery Charger IC.
January 1992: 4-Channel Guitar Mixer; Adjustable 0-45V 8A Power
Supply, Pt.1; Baby Room Monitor/FM Transmitter; Experiments For
Your Games Card.
April 1990: Dual Tracking ±50V Power Supply; Voice-Operated
Switch (VOX) With Delayed Audio; 16-Channel Mixing Desk, Pt.3;
Active CW Filter; Servicing Your Microwave Oven.
March 1992: TV Transmitter For VHF VCRs; Thermostatic Switch For
Car Radiator Fans; Coping With Damaged Computer Directories; Valve
Substitution In Vintage Radios.
June 1990: Multi-Sector Home Burglar Alarm; Build A Low-Noise
Universal Stereo Preamplifier; Load Protector For Power Supplies.
April 1992: IR Remote Control For Model Railroads; Differential Input
Buffer For CROs; Understanding Computer Memory; Aligning Vintage
Radio Receivers, Pt.1.
July 1990: Digital Sine/Square Generator, Pt.1 (covers 0-500kHz);
Burglar Alarm Keypad & Combination Lock; Build A Simple Electronic Die; A Low-Cost Dual Power Supply.
August 1990: High Stability UHF Remote Transmitter; Universal
Safety Timer For Mains Appliances (9 Minutes); Horace The
Electronic Cricket; Digital Sine/Square Generator, Pt.2.
September 1990: A Low-Cost 3-Digit Counter Module; Build A Simple Shortwave Converter For The 2-Metre Band; The Care & Feeding
Of Nicad Battery Packs (Getting The Most From Nicad Batteries).
October 1990: The Dangers of PCBs; Low-Cost Siren For Burglar
Alarms; Dimming Controls For The Discolight; Surfsound Simulator; DC Offset For DMMs; NE602 Converter Circuits.
November 1990: Connecting Two TV Sets To One VCR; Build An Egg
Timer; Low-Cost Model Train Controller; 1.5V To 9V DC Converter;
Introduction To Digital Electronics; A 6-Metre Amateur Transmitter.
December 1990: 100W DC-DC Converter For Car Amplifiers; Wiper
Pulser For Rear Windows; 4-Digit Combination Lock; 5W Power
Amplifier For The 6-Metre Amateur Transmitter; Index To Volume 3.
\January 1991: Fast Charger For Nicad Batteries, Pt.1; Have Fun
With The Fruit Machine (Simple Poker Machine); Build A TwoTone Alarm Module; The Dangers of Servicing Microwave Ovens.
March 1991: Transistor Beta Tester Mk.2; A Synthesised AM Stereo
Tuner, Pt.2; Multi-Purpose I/O Board For PC-Compatibles; Universal
Wideband RF Preamplifier For Amateur Radio & TV.
ORDER FORM
Please
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thethe
following
back
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Please
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following
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issues:
June 1992: Multi-Station Headset Intercom, Pt.1; Video Switcher For
Camcorders & VCRs; IR Remote Control For Model Railroads, Pt.3;
15-Watt 12-240V Inverter; A Look At Hard Disk Drives.
October 1993: Courtesy Light Switch-Off Timer For Cars; Wireless
Microphone For Musicians; Stereo Preamplifier With IR Remote Control,
Pt.2; Electronic Engine Management, Pt.1.
November 1993: High Efficiency Inverter For Fluorescent Tubes; Stereo
Preamplifier With IR Remote Control, Pt.3; Siren Sound Generator;
Engine Management, Pt.2; Experiments For Games Cards.
December 1993: Remote Controller For Garage Doors; Build A LED
Stroboscope; Build A 25W Audio Amplifier Module; A 1-Chip Melody
Generator; Engine Management, Pt.3; Index To Volume 6.
January 1994: 3A 40V Variable Power Supply; Solar Panel Switching
Regulator; Printer Status Indicator; Mini Drill Speed Controller; Stepper
Motor Controller; Active Filter Design; Engine Management, Pt.4.
February 1994: Build A 90-Second Message Recorder; 12-240VAC
200W Inverter; 0.5W Audio Amplifier; 3A 40V Adjustable Power Supply;
Engine Management, Pt.5; Airbags In Cars – How They Work.
March 1994: Intelligent IR Remote Controller; 50W (LM3876) Audio
Amplifier Module; Level Crossing Detector For Model Railways; Voice
Activated Switch For FM Microphones; Engine Management, Pt.6.
April 1994: Sound & Lights For Model Railway Level Crossings; Discrete
Dual Supply Voltage Regulator; Universal Stereo Preamplifier; Digital
Water Tank Gauge; Engine Management, Pt.7.
May 1994: Fast Charger For Nicad Batteries; Induction Balance Metal
Locator; Multi-Channel Infrared Remote Control; Dual Electronic Dice;
Simple Servo Driver Circuits; Engine Management, Pt.8.
June 1994: 200W/350W Mosfet Amplifier Module; A Coolant Level Alarm
For Your Car; 80-Metre AM/CW Transmitter For Amateurs; Converting
Phono Inputs To Line Inputs; PC-Based Nicad Battery Monitor; Engine
Management, Pt.9.
July 1994: Build A 4-Bay Bow-Tie UHF TV Antenna; PreChamp 2-Transistor Preamplifier; Steam Train Whistle & Diesel Horn Simulator; 6V
SLA Battery Charger; Electronic Engine Management, Pt.10.
August 1994: High-Power Dimmer For Incandescent Lights; Microprocessor-Controlled Morse Keyer; Dual Diversity Tuner For FM
Microphones, Pt.1; Nicad Zapper (For Resurrecting Nicad Batteries);
Engine Management, Pt.11.
August 1992: Automatic SLA Battery Charger; Miniature 1.5V To 9V
DC Converter; 1kW Dummy Load Box For Audio Amplifiers; Troubleshooting Vintage Radio Receivers; The MIDI Interface Explained.
September 1994: Automatic Discharger For Nicad Battery Packs;
MiniVox Voice Operated Relay; Image Intensified Night Viewer; AM
Radio For Weather Beacons; Dual Diversity Tuner For FM Microphones,
Pt.2; Engine Management, Pt.12.
October 1992: 2kW 24VDC - 240VAC Sinewave Inverter; Multi-Sector
Home Burglar Alarm, Pt.2; Mini Amplifier For Personal Stereos; A
Regulated Lead-Acid Battery Charger.
October 1994: How Dolby Surround Sound Works; Dual Rail Variable
Power Supply; Build A Talking Headlight Reminder; Electronic Ballast For
Fluorescent Lights; Build A Temperature Controlled Soldering Station;
Electronic Engine Management, Pt.13.
January 1993: Flea-Power AM Radio Transmitter; High Intensity LED
Flasher For Bicycles; 2kW 24VDC To 240VAC Sinewave Inverter, Pt.4;
Speed Controller For Electric Models, Pt.3.
February 1993: Three Projects For Model Railroads; Low Fuel Indicator
For Cars; Audio Level/VU Meter (LED Readout); An Electronic Cockroach; 2kW 24VDC To 240VAC Sinewave Inverter, Pt.5.
March 1993: Solar Charger For 12V Batteries; Alarm-Triggered Security
Camera; Reaction Trainer; Audio Mixer for Camcorders; A 24-Hour
Sidereal Clock For Astronomers.
April 1993: Solar-Powered Electric Fence; Audio Power Meter;
Three-Function Home Weather Station; 12VDC To 70VDC Converter;
Digital Clock With Battery Back-Up.
June 1993: AM Radio Trainer, Pt.1; Remote Control For The Woofer
Stopper; Digital Voltmeter For Cars; Windows-Based Logic Analyser.
November 1994: Dry Cell Battery Rejuvenator; Novel Alphanumeric
Clock; 80-Metre DSB Amateur Transmitter; Twin-Cell Nicad Discharger
(See May 1993); How To Plot Patterns Direct to PC Boards.
December 1994: Easy-To-Build Car Burglar Alarm; Three-Spot Low
Distortion Sinewave Oscillator; Clifford – A Pesky Electronic Cricket;
Remote Control System for Models, Pt.1; Index to Vol.7.
January 1995: Sun Tracker For Solar Panels; Battery Saver For Torches;
Dolby Pro-Logic Surround Sound Decoder, Pt.2; Dual Channel UHF
Remote Control; Stereo Microphone Preamplifier.
February 1995: 50-Watt/Channel Stereo Amplifier Module; Digital Effects
Unit For Musicians; 6-Channel Thermometer With LCD Readout; Wide
Range Electrostatic Loudspeakers, Pt.1; Oil Change Timer For Cars;
Remote Control System For Models, Pt.2.
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Note: prices include postage & packing
Australia ....................... $A7.70 (incl. GST)
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Silicon Chip Publications, PO Box 139,
Collaroy, NSW, Australia 2097.
Or call (02) 9979 5644 & quote your credit card
details or fax the details to (02) 9979 6503.
Email: silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au
March 1995: 50 Watt Per Channel Stereo Amplifier, Pt.1; Subcarrier
Decoder For FM Receivers; Wide Range Electrostatic Loudspeakers,
Pt.2; IR Illuminator For CCD Cameras; Remote Control System For
Models, Pt.3; Simple CW Filter.
July 1997: Infrared Remote Volume Control; A Flexible Interface Card
For PCs; Points Controller For Model Railways; Simple Square/Triangle
Waveform Generator; Colour TV Pattern Generator, Pt.2; An In-Line
Mixer For Radio Control Receivers.
August 1999: Remote Modem Controller; Daytime Running Lights For
Cars; Build A PC Monitor Checker; Switching Temperature Controller;
XYZ Table With Stepper Motor Control, Pt.4; Electric Lighting, Pt.14;
DOS & Windows Utilities For Reversing Protel PC Board Files.
April 1995: FM Radio Trainer, Pt.1; Photographic Timer For Dark
rooms; Balanced Microphone Preamp. & Line Filter; 50W/Channel
Stereo Amplifier, Pt.2; Wide Range Electrostatic Loudspeakers, Pt.3;
8-Channel Decoder For Radio Remote Control.
August 1997: The Bass Barrel Subwoofer; 500 Watt Audio Power
Amplifier Module; A TENs Unit For Pain Relief; Addressable PC Card
For Stepper Motor Control; Remote Controlled Gates For Your Home.
September 1999: Automatic Addressing On TCP/IP Networks; Autonomouse The Robot, Pt.1; Voice Direct Speech Recognition Module;
Digital Electrolytic Capacitance Meter; XYZ Table With Stepper Motor
Control, Pt.5; Peltier-Powered Can Cooler.
May 1995: Build A Guitar Headphone Amplifier; FM Radio Trainer,
Pt.2; Transistor/Mosfet Tester For DMMs; A 16-Channel Decoder
For Radio Remote Control; Introduction to Satellite TV.
June 1995: Build A Satellite TV Receiver; Train Detector For Model
Railways; 1W Audio Amplifier Trainer; Low-Cost Video Security
System; Multi-Channel Radio Control Transmitter For Models, Pt.1.
September 1997: Multi-Spark Capacitor Discharge Ignition; 500W
Audio Power Amplifier, Pt.2; A Video Security System For Your Home;
PC Card For Controlling Two Stepper Motors; HiFi On A Budget.
October 1997: Build A 5-Digit Tachometer; Add Central Locking To Your
Car; PC-Controlled 6-Channel Voltmeter; 500W Audio Power Amplifier,
Pt.3; Customising The Windows 95 Start Menu.
October 1999: Sharing A Modem For Internet & Email Access (WinGate); Build The Railpower Model Train Controller, Pt.1; Semiconductor
Curve Tracer; Autonomouse The Robot, Pt.2; XYZ Table With Stepper
Motor Control, Pt.6; Introducing Home Theatre.
November 1999: USB – Hassle-Free Connections TO Your PC; Electric
Lighting, Pt.15; Setting Up An Email Server; Speed Alarm For Cars,
Pt.1; Multi-Colour LED Christmas Tree; Build An Intercom Station
Expander; Foldback Loudspeaker System For Musicians; Railpower
Model Train Controller, Pt.2.
July 1995: Electric Fence Controller; How To Run Two Trains On
A Single Track (Incl. Lights & Sound); Setting Up A Satellite TV
Ground Station; Build A Reliable Door Minder.
November 1997: Heavy Duty 10A 240VAC Motor Speed Controller;
Easy-To-Use Cable & Wiring Tester; Build A Musical Doorbell; Relocating Your CD-ROM Drive; Replacing Foam Speaker Surrounds;
Understanding Electric Lighting Pt.1.
August 1995: Fuel Injector Monitor For Cars; Gain Controlled Microphone Preamp; Audio Lab PC-Controlled Test Instrument, Pt.1;
How To Identify IDE Hard Disk Drive Parameters.
December 1997: Build A Speed Alarm For Your Car; Two-Axis Robot
With Gripper; Loudness Control For Car Hifi Systems; Stepper Motor
Driver With Onboard Buffer; Power Supply For Stepper Motor Cards;
Understanding Electric Lighting Pt.2; Index To Volume 10.
December 1999: Internet Connection Sharing Using Hardware; Electric
Lighting, Pt.16; Build A Solar Panel Regulator; The PC Powerhouse
(gives fixed +12V, +9V, +6V & +5V rails); The Fortune Finder Metal
Locator; Speed Alarm For Cars, Pt.2; Railpower Model Train Controller,
Pt.3; Index To Volume 12.
January 1998: Build Your Own 4-Channel Lightshow, Pt.1 (runs off
12VDC or 12VAC); Command Control System For Model Railways, Pt.1;
Pan Controller For CCD Cameras; Build A One Or Two-Lamp Flasher;
Understanding Electric Lighting, Pt.3.
January 2000: Spring Reverberation Module; An Audio-Video Test
Generator; Build The Picman Programmable Robot; A Parallel Port
Interface Card; Off-Hook Indicator For Telephone Lines; B&W Nautilus
801 Monitor Loudspeakers (Review).
February 1998: Multi-Purpose Fast Battery Charger, Pt.1; Telephone
Exchange Simulator For Testing; Command Control System For
Model Railways, Pt.2; Build Your Own 4-Channel Lightshow, Pt.2;
Understanding Electric Lighting, Pt.4.
February 2000: Multi-Sector Sprinkler Controller; A Digital Voltmeter
For Your Car; An Ultrasonic Parking Radar; Build A Safety Switch
Checker; Build A Sine/Square Wave Oscillator; Marantz SR-18 Home
Theatre Receiver (Review); The “Hot Chip” Starter Kit (Review).
April 1998: Automatic Garage Door Opener, Pt.1; 40V 8A Adjustable
Power Supply, Pt.1; PC-Controlled 0-30kHz Sinewave Generator; Build
A Laser Light Show; Understanding Electric Lighting; Pt.6.
March 2000: Doing A Lazarus On An Old Computer; Ultra Low Distortion 100W Amplifier Module, Pt.1; Electronic Wind Vane With 16-LED
Display; Glowplug Driver For Powered Models; The OzTrip Car Computer, Pt.1; Multisim Circuit Design & Simulation Package (Review).
September 1995: Railpower Mk.2 Walkaround Throttle For Model
Railways, Pt.1; Keypad Combination Lock; The Vader Voice; Jacob’s
Ladder Display; Audio Lab PC-Controlled Test Instrument, Pt.2.
October 1995: 3-Way Bass Reflex Loudspeaker System; Railpower
Mk.2 Walkaround Throttle For Model Railways, Pt.2; Fast Charger For
Nicad Batteries; Digital Speedometer & Fuel Gauge For Cars, Pt.1.
November 1995: Mixture Display For Fuel Injected Cars; CB Trans
verter For The 80M Amateur Band, Pt.1; PIR Movement Detector;
Digital Speedometer & Fuel Gauge For Cars, Pt.2.
December 1995: Engine Immobiliser; 5-Band Equaliser; CB Transverter For The 80M Amateur Band, Pt.2; Subwoofer Controller; Knock
Sensing In Cars; Index To Volume 8.
January 1996: Surround Sound Mixer & Decoder, Pt.1; Magnetic
Card Reader; Build An Automatic Sprinkler Controller; IR Remote
Control For The Railpower Mk.2; Recharging Nicad Batteries For
Long Life.
April 1996: Cheap Battery Refills For Mobile Telephones; 125W
Audio Power Amplifier Module; Knock Indicator For Leaded Petrol
Engines; Multi-Channel Radio Control Transmitter; Pt.3; Cathode
Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.2.
May 1996: Upgrading The CPU In Your PC; High Voltage Insulation
Tester; Knightrider Bi-Directional LED Chaser; Simple Duplex
Intercom Using Fibre Optic Cable; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.3.
May 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.1; Build A 3-LED Logic Probe;
Automatic Garage Door Opener, Pt.2; Command Control For Model
Railways, Pt.4; 40V 8A Adjustable Power Supply, Pt.2.
June 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.2; Understanding Electric
Lighting, Pt.7; Universal High Energy Ignition System; The Roadies’
Friend Cable Tester; Universal Stepper Motor Controller; Command
Control For Model Railways, Pt.5.
July 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.3 (Installing A Modem And
Solving Problems); Build A Heat Controller; 15-Watt Class-A Audio
Amplifier Module; Simple Charger For 6V & 12V SLA Batteries; Automatic Semiconductor Analyser; Understanding Electric Lighting, Pt.8.
June 1996: BassBox CAD Loudspeaker Software Reviewed; Stereo
Simulator (uses delay chip); Rope Light Chaser; Low Ohms Tester
For Your DMM; Automatic 10A Battery Charger.
August 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.4 (Adding Extra Memory);
Build The Opus One Loudspeaker System; Simple I/O Card With
Automatic Data Logging; Build A Beat Triggered Strobe; A 15-Watt
Per Channel Class-A Stereo Amplifier.
July 1996: Build A VGA Digital Oscilloscope, Pt.1; Remote Control
Extender For VCRs; 2A SLA Battery Charger; 3-Band Parametric
Equaliser; Single Channel 8-bit Data Logger.
September 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.5 (Software Problems
& DOS Games); A Blocked Air-Filter Alarm; A Waa-Waa Pedal For Your
Guitar; Build A Plasma Display Or Jacob’s Ladder; Gear Change Indicator
For Cars; Capacity Indicator For Rechargeable Batteries.
August 1996: Introduction to IGBTs; Electronic Starter For Fluores
cent Lamps; VGA Oscilloscope, Pt.2; 350W Amplifier Module;
Masthead Amplifier For TV & FM; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.4.
September 1996: VGA Oscilloscope, Pt.3; IR Stereo Headphone
Link, Pt.1; High Quality PA Loudspeaker; 3-Band HF Amateur Radio
Receiver; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.5.
October 1996: Send Video Signals Over Twisted Pair Cable; Power
Control With A Light Dimmer; 600W DC-DC Converter For Car Hifi
Systems, Pt.1; IR Stereo Headphone Link, Pt.2; Build A Multi-Media
Sound System, Pt.1; Multi-Channel Radio Control Transmitter, Pt.8.
November 1996: Adding A Parallel Port To Your Computer; 8-Channel Stereo Mixer, Pt.1; Low-Cost Fluorescent Light Inverter; How
To Repair Domestic Light Dimmers; Build A Multi-Media Sound
System, Pt.2; 600W DC-DC Converter For Car Hifi Systems, Pt.2.
December 1996: Active Filter Cleans Up Your CW Reception; A Fast
Clock For Railway Modellers; Laser Pistol & Electronic Target; Build A
Sound Level Meter; 8-Channel Stereo Mixer, Pt.2; Index To Volume 9.
January 1997: How To Network Your PC; Control Panel For Multiple
Smoke Alarms, Pt.1; Build A Pink Noise Source; Computer Controlled
Dual Power Supply, Pt.1; Digi-Temp Monitors Eight Temperatures.
February 1997: Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.6; PC-Controlled
Moving Message Display; Computer Controlled Dual Power Supply,
Pt.2; The Alert-A-Phone Loud Sounding Telephone Alarm; Build A
Control Panel For Multiple Smoke Alarms, Pt.2.
October 1998: Lab Quality AC Millivoltmeter, Pt.1; PC-Controlled StressO-Meter; Versatile Electronic Guitar Limiter; 12V Trickle Charger For
Float Conditions; Adding An External Battery Pack To Your Flashgun.
November 1998: The Christmas Star (Microprocessor-Controlled
Christmas Decoration); A Turbo Timer For Cars; Build A Poker Machine,
Pt.1; FM Transmitter For Musicians; Lab Quality AC Millivoltmeter, Pt.2;
Setting Up A LAN Using TCP/IP; Understanding Electric Lighting, Pt.9;
Improving AM Radio Reception, Pt.1.
December 1998: Protect Your Car With The Engine Immobiliser Mk.2;
Thermocouple Adaptor For DMMs; A Regulated 12V DC Plugpack; Build
Your Own Poker Machine, Pt.2; Improving AM Radio Reception, Pt.2;
Mixer Module For F3B Glider Operations.
January 1999: High-Voltage Megohm Tester; Getting Started With
BASIC Stamp; LED Bargraph Ammeter For Cars; Keypad Engine Immobiliser; Improving AM Radio Reception, Pt.3; Electric Lighting, Pt.10
February 1999: Installing A Computer Network; Making Front Panels
For Your Projects; Low Distortion Audio Signal Generator, Pt.1; Command Control Decoder For Model Railways; Build A Digital Capacitance
Meter; Build A Remote Control Tester; Electric Lighting, Pt.11.
March 1999: Getting Started With Linux; Pt.1; Build A Digital
Anemometer; 3-Channel Current Monitor With Data Logging; Simple
DIY PIC Programmer; Easy-To-Build Audio Compressor; Low Distortion
Audio Signal Generator, Pt.2; Electric Lighting, Pt.12.
March 1997: Driving A Computer By Remote Control; Plastic Power
PA Amplifier (175W); Signalling & Lighting For Model Railways; Build
A Jumbo LED Clock; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.7.
April 1999: Getting Started With Linux; Pt.2; High-Power Electric
Fence Controller; Bass Cube Subwoofer; Programmable Thermostat/
Thermometer; Build An Infrared Sentry; Rev Limiter For Cars; Electric
Lighting, Pt.13; Autopilots For Radio-Controlled Model Aircraft.
April 1997: Simple Timer With No ICs; Digital Voltmeter For Cars;
Loudspeaker Protector For Stereo Amplifiers; Model Train Controller;
A Look At Signal Tracing; Pt.1; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.8.
May 1999: The Line Dancer Robot; An X-Y Table With Stepper Motor
Control, Pt.1; Three Electric Fence Testers; Heart Of LEDs; Build A
Carbon Monoxide Alarm; Getting Started With Linux; Pt.3.
May 1997: Neon Tube Modulator For Light Systems; Traffic Lights
For A Model Intersection; The Spacewriter – It Writes Messages
In Thin Air; A Look At Signal Tracing; Pt.2; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.9.
June 1999: FM Radio Tuner Card For PCs; X-Y Table With Stepper
Motor Control, Pt.2; Programmable Ignition Timing Module For Cars,
Pt.1; Hard Disk Drive Upgrades Without Reinstalling Software; What Is
A Groundplane Antenna?; Getting Started With Linux; Pt.4.
June 1997: PC-Controlled Thermometer/Thermostat; Colour TV Pattern Generator, Pt.1; Build An Audio/RF Signal Tracer; High-Current
Speed Controller For 12V/24V Motors; Manual Control Circuit For A
Stepper Motor; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.10.
July 1999: Build The Dog Silencer; A 10µH to 19.99mH Inductance
Meter; Build An Audio-Video Transmitter; Programmable Ignition
Timing Module For Cars, Pt.2; XYZ Table With Stepper Motor Control,
Pt.3; The Hexapod Robot.
April 2000: A Digital Tachometer For Your Car; RoomGuard – A LowCost Intruder Alarm; Build A Hot wire Cutter; The OzTrip Car Computer,
Pt.2; Build A Temperature Logger; Atmel’s ICE 200 In-Circuit Emulator;
How To Run A 3-Phase Induction Motor From 240VAC.
May 2000: Ultra-LD Stereo Amplifier, Pt.2; Build A LED Dice (With
PIC Microcontroller); Low-Cost AT Keyboard Translator (Converts
IBM Scan-Codes To ASCII); 50A Motor Speed Controller For Models;
What’s Inside A Furby.
June 2000: Automatic Rain Gauge With Digital Readout; Parallel Port
VHF FM Receiver; Li’l Powerhouse Switchmode Power Supply (1.23V
to 40V) Pt.1; CD Compressor For Cars Or The Home.
July 2000: A Moving Message Display; Compact Fluorescent
Lamp Driver; El-Cheapo Musicians’ Lead Tester; Li’l Powerhouse
Switchmode Power Supply (1.23V to 40V) Pt.2; Say Bye-Bye To
Your 12V Car Battery.
August 2000: Build A Theremin For Really Eeerie Sounds; Come In
Spinner (writes messages in “thin-air”); Loudspeaker Protector &
Fan Controller For The Ultra-LD Stereo Amplifier; Proximity Switch
For 240VAC Lamps; Structured Cabling For Computer Networks.
September 2000: Build A Swimming Pool Alarm; An 8-Channel PC
Relay Board; Fuel Mixture Display For Cars, Pt.1; Protoboards – The
Easy Way Into Electronics, Pt.1; Cybug The Solar Fly; Network Troubleshooting With Fluke’s NetTool.
October 2000: Guitar Jammer For Practice & Jam Sessions; Booze
Buster Breath Tester; A Wand-Mounted Inspection Camera); Installing
A Free-Air Subwoofer In Your Car; Fuel Mixture Display For Cars, Pt.2;
Protoboards – The Easy Way Into Electronics, Pt.2.
November 2000: Santa & Rudolf Chrissie Display; 2-Channel Guitar
Preamplifier, Pt.1; Message Bank & Missed Call Alert; Electronic
Thermostat; Protoboards – The Easy Way Into Electronics, Pt.3.
December 2000: Home Networking For Shared Internet Access; Build
A Bright-White LED Torch; 2-Channel Guitar Preamplifier, Pt.2 (Digital
Reverb); Driving An LCD From The Parallel Port; Build A morse Clock;
Protoboards – The Easy Way Into Electronics, Pt.4; Index To Vol.13.
January 2001: LP Resurrection – Transferring LPs & Tapes To CD;
The LP Doctor – Clean Up Clicks & Pops, Pt.1; Arbitrary Waveform
Generator; 2-Channel Guitar Preamplifier, Pt.3; PIC Programmer &
TestBed; Wireless Networking.
February 2001: How To Observe Meteors Using Junked Gear; An Easy
Way To Make PC Boards; L’il Pulser Train Controller; Midi-Mate – A
MIDI Interface For PCs; Build The Bass Blazer; 2-Metre Elevated
Groundplane Antenna; The LP Doctor – Clean Up Clicks & Pops, Pt.2.
March 2001: Driving Your Phone from A PC; Making Photo resist
PC Boards At Home; Big-Digit 12/24 Hour Clock; Parallel Port PIC
Programmer & Checkerboard; Protoboards – The Easy Way Into
Electronics, Pt.5; More MIDI – A Simple MIDI Expansion Box.
PLEASE NOTE: November 1987 to March 1989, June 1989, August
1989, December 1989, May 1990, February 1991, June 1991, August
1991, February 1992, July 1992, September 1992, November 1992,
December 1992, May 1993, February 1996 and March 1998 are now
sold out. All other issues are presently in stock. For readers wanting
articles from sold-out issues, we can supply photostat copies (or tear
sheets) at $7.70 per article (includes p&p). When supplying photostat
articles or back copies, we automatically supply any relevant notes &
errata at no extra charge. A complete index to all articles published
to date is available on floppy disk for $11 including p&p, or can be
downloaded free from our web site: www.siliconchip.com.au
April 2001 89
ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Write to: Ask Silicon Chip, PO Box 139, Collaroy Beach, NSW 2097.
White noise generator
for tinnitus treatment
I am looking for a white noise
generator to help my mother who has
tinnitus. As far as I can determine
from the (limited) published literature, the white noise generator works
by distraction only. You may find the
following website useful:
http://www.gold-line.com/pwn1.htm
As far as the medical literature is
concerned, the condition is poorly
understood and treatment options
are limited. I suspect someone tried
white noise on a patient, it worked,
and it then found its way into the
literature. My understanding is that
low level noise helps in retraining
the brain. Anyway, what can you
suggest? (G. M., via email).
• We have not described a white
noise generator but we have described a pink noise generator in
the January 1997 issue and it was
also featured in our recent publication “Electronics Test
Bench”. It
should serve the purpose although it
would be easy to remove the “pink”
filter components to make the noise
“white”.
White noise has a uniform energy
Frequency change for
Tandy R/C cars
I have recently purchased two
radio-control cars for my children
from Tandy Electronics. The problem is that the two cars are both on
the same frequency, 27.145MHz . I
had thought of changing the crystal
in one of the cars but it only has
one in the transmitter, not the receiver. What should I do? (C. O.,
via email).
• If there is only one crystal in the
system and it is in the transmitter,
it is possible that the receiver is
a super-regenerative type with a
bandwidth of around 2-3MHz.
That means that you can only
operate one receiver at a time on
90 Silicon Chip
spectrum; it rises at 3dB per octave.
Pink noise is white noise with a 3dB/
octave filter applied to give equal
energy per octave. As far as tinnitus
is concerned, the effect of pink noise
would be exactly the same as white
noise.
and you might want to use a later
one. The transmitter has a Motorola
41342 encoder chip which may not
be available now. The receiver does
not use a prebuilt module. Later designs do. Check out the designs in
February 1996.
Query on UHF
remote switch
More 12V outlets from
PC PowerHouse
I am interested in the “UHF Remote
Switch” featured in the December
1989 and August 1990 issues of SILICON CHIP. Before procuring photocopies or back copies of the relevant
articles I have a couple of queries.
I understand that the RF transmitter is based on discrete components.
Does the design for the RF receiver
portion use a pre-built module or is
it also based on discrete components?
If it uses a pre-built module, do you
know if this is still easily obtainable?
I am particularly looking for a design for the RF section of a 308MHz
remote-control receiver to interface
with an MC145028 that uses readily
available parts and I favour one that
uses discrete components. (J. P, via
email).
• The design in question is very old
I am in the process of building the
PC PowerHouse, described in the December 1999 issue of SILICON CHIP. I
would like to change the 5V outlet to
12V (thus having two 12V outlets).
Another idea I have would be to
purchase a used PC power supply
and (either with or without the PC
Powerhouse kit) use this unit to supply another two or more 12V outlets
(without a PC). How can this be done?
I don’t have much need for the lower
voltages. (A. Z., via email).
• If you don’t want the lower voltage
outputs, you can have up to three
12V outputs simply by placing a link
across each of the 3-terminal regulators. If you want to use a PC power
supply direct and you only want 12V,
you don’t need the PC PowerHouse
at all – just use the 12V directly from
the power supply.
the 27MHz band. According to our
R/C guru, Bob Young, this is how
radio-control began back in the
olden days. They flew one model
on 27MHz and the other on 40MHz.
Then along came superhets and
changed everything.
According to Bob Young, if it
is one of the modern super-regen
receiver chips, it could possibly
have a bandwidth of only 200kHz
which may make it possible to
squeeze one transmitter in at the
bottom (26.995MHz) and another
at the top on say, 27.255MHz. If you
want to try it, Silvertone Electronics can supply crystals cut to those
frequencies if required, at $21.50
each. See their advertisement elsewhere in this magazine.
Switched capacitor
speed control for fan
We have a ceiling fan about 10
years old (maybe a bit less). It came
with a multi-tap choke control,
which was not installed. Instead, a
solid-state Clipsal fan control was
used, together with a SPDT centre-off
Clipsal switch, enabling the fan to
be run full bore, bypassing the control, or through the variable control.
This was done purely for aesthetic
reasons. The original choke control
has been lost.
Now the solid-state control has
died (the fan works when the switch
is set to bypass the control but won’t
work via the control). The new fans
one buys now use a multi-position
switch to switch in different capaci-
tor values in series with the fan.
I would like to replace the faulty
solid-state control with one of these
capacitor ones, as it will free up a
position in the switch plate, to be
used for an extra light. Will the new
capacitor controls (a Clipsal one)
work with the older fans or are the
motors different now? I don’t want
to just go out and buy a capacitor
control only to find it either won’t
work or it ruins the fan motor.
Of course, it may well turn out to
be cheaper to buy a new fan, the way
prices of things are these days. (J. B.,
via email).
• Trying a switched capacitor control could be a bit of a lottery – we
don’t know whether the new fan
motors differ substantially from the
old one.
Why don’t you just fix the solid
state control? It is likely to need a
new Triac. We published an article on
fixing light dimmers in the November
1996 issue. You can also buy switch
plates which will accommodate
three switches – or one switch either
side of the dimmer module. We can
supply the November 1996 issue for
$7.70 including postage.
By the way, Triac fan speed controllers are now available quite cheaply
from hardware stores.
More range wanted
from speed controller
I have just successfully completed
the Universal Motor Speed Controller
described in November 1992 and put
it to good use. However, the power
tool I am using with it does not run
at full speed. In fact, the measured
output line voltage with the tool
running is only 145VAC.
I am using a Dremel Moto-Tool,
rated at 110W and 0.48A, running at
30,000 RPM. Is this as expected or is
there a modification to the controller
that I could make? (G. C., via email).
• The unit is working pretty much as
expected. The circuit is essentially a
controlled rectifier and so in theory,
the maximum output voltage to the
motor is about 170VAC.
If you want control over the full
range of a motor, including full
speed, you need to build the 10A
240VAC speed controller described
in the November 1997 issue. We can
supply this issue for $7.70 including
postage.
High energy ignition
will not start car
I purchased the High Energy
Ignition kit from Jaycar Elec
tronics, assembled it without any
problems, connected it into my
daughter’s Datsun 200B and the
car will not start. It spins over OK
but there is no spark getting to the
plugs.
The Jaycar people have looked
at it and couldn’t see anything
that was obviously wrong with it.
They gave me a replacement IC in
case the original was faulty but this
didn’t help. Do you have any suggestions? (D. M., Canberra, ACT).
• You really need to do a bench
Zener diode tester
availability
I am inquiring as to who may still
be supplying the kit for the Zener
Diode Tester described in the March
1996 issue of SILICON CHIP. If there
is no supplier, where can I obtain
the harder to get parts such as the
Philips transformer assembly and its
parts, the 1N4936 fast recovery diode
and the 56V 3W zener diode. (D. S.,
via email).
• The kit for the Zener Diode Tester
is no longer available. The PC board
can be obtained from RCS Radio.
Phone (02) 9738 0330. The EFD20
transformer is available from Farnell
Electronics; phone 1300 361 005. Cat
alog numbers are 200-270 for the core
(2 required), 200-281 for the bobbin
(1 required) and 200-293 for the clips
(2 required). The 56V zener (368-428)
and the 1N4936 diode (366-950) are
also available from Farnell.
Cheaper transformer
for 500W amplifier
I was interested in building the
500W amplifier described in SILICON
CHIP during 1997. I just want to find
out if I could substitute a cheaper
transformer or if there is some other
way I could power the amplifier for
a lower price.
Just recently, I went to the Altronics
website and saw they have a 50V +
50V 500VA toroidal transformer (Cat
M-5750). Is this transformer going to
test on the ignition system, with a
coil fitted. You do not say whether
the car has points but you need to
simulate the closing of the points
(or whatever the pickup is) to see
that a spark is being delivered by
the coil.
The coil should have a spark gap
from the HT connection to one of
the primary terminals. You can do
this with a paper clip and arrange
for a gap of no more than 6-8mm. If
you operate the coil without a spark
gap, you may blow it internally.
We doubt whether the IC would
be at fault. The most common
problems with any kit are missed
solder joints or shorts due to fine
solder splashes across the tracks.
suit the design? (B. B., via email).
A 500VA transformer is nowhere
near big enough if you really want
500W output. The rule of thumb is
that a class-B amplifier is about 60%
efficient at maximum power and if
you do the sums, you need 833VA.
That’s why we specified 800VA. Also
50V a side is a big reduction on the
57V specified and that would mean
a reduction in power output of about
23% or about 380W maximum. We’re
afraid there isn’t any easy answer.
•
TENS kit
wanted
I’m after a TENS kit as featured in
SILICON CHIP, August 1997. I have
tried Dick Smith Electronics but have
been told they are no longer available. Could you help in obtaining one
please? (T. S., via email).
• While this kit is no longer produced, all the parts should be readily available. The PC board can be
purchased from RCS Radio. Phone
(02) 9738 0330 or www.cia.com.au/
rcsradio
Ultra-low distortion
amplifier query
I bought a pair of low distortion
amplifier modules (published by SILICON CHIP in March & May 2000) from
Altronics, thinking that they would
be perfect for a subwoofer project I
am doing. Unfortunately, I bought
the modules sight unseen, having
April 2001 91
Adding a kill switch to
the 5-band equaliser
I was considering adding the
5-band equaliser from your December 1995 issue, to my mixing
console. I was wondering if I insert
a notch filter or similar on each of
the bands to effectively cancel them
when not needed; similar to the kill
switches found on DJ mixers.
Or maybe I could extend the
ranges from the usual ±15dB on
each band. A kill switch beside each
pot control would also be effective.
Is this possible? (E. Z., via email).
• The kill switch probably does not
not read the original articles. I need
to use the modules to drive 4Ω loads
and note that this impedance is not
recommended.
Can any modification be performed
to improve reliability (force more
equal current sharing)? Your article
notes that emitter resistors were
tried on the output devices but they
increased distortion.
In my application, ultra-low distortion is not needed and I won’t be
feeding them anything above 200Hz.
My intended bass driver has dual
voice coils. The plan was to feed each
voice coil from a separate amplifier.
(P. H., via email).
• There is no easy or effective modification to make these modules suitable
for 4Ω loads. The ideal choice would
have been to pick our Plastic Power
module (175W into 4Ω) published
in April 1996 but not available from
Fault in high efficiency
fluorescent inverter
Can you please assist me with
the fluorescent light inverter published in November 1993. I have
constructed the unit to suit a 3640W tube. The light came on OK
and a short while later it failed.
I replaced the 5A input fuse and
as soon as light came on, the fuse
went again. Can you help? (P. W.,
via email).
• With the fluorescent tube out
of circuit (disconnected) check
that the inverter produces 340V
between the drain of Q3 and source
92 Silicon Chip
introduce a notch at the frequency
selected but simply restores the
equaliser band to flat. This could
be implemented by switching the
wiper of the control pot to a second
resistive divider across the pot. The
resistors would each be 22kΩ.
Extra boost and cut can be achiev
ed by changing the 10kΩ resistor
between pins 10 & 14 of IC1. A
larger value will increase the boost
and cut.
Adding a fixed resistor in series
with the pot will restrict the control
range. One in the top will restrict
the boost and one in the bottom will
restrict the cut.
Altronics. Your best course may be to
ask for a credit and buy the Altronics
Mosfet amps (K-5170) which are rated
for 200W into 4Ω. Their distortion is
nowhere near as low (despite being
quoted at .007%) but they would be
quite suitable for your application.
Fuses for toroidal
transformers
Last week, the transformer on our
church equaliser went open circuit
on the primary side. No other faults
were noted and the fuse was intact.
As a new transformer is $60-80
and 10 weeks away, I was advised
to substitute a 15V toroid, which I
have done (Jaycar MT-2086). The
EQ unit had a 150mA 3AG fast-blow
fuse which blew immediately at
power up when testing the toroidal
transformer but with a higher-rated
of Q4. If not, check that transformer
T1 is wound correctly. Windings for
the primary are wound by terminating wires at pins 4 & 5 of the transformer and winding both wires for
four turns and terminating at pins
7 & 6 respectively. The secondary at
136 turns starts and finishes at pins
2 & 1 respectively. Check that the
transformer is correctly oriented on
the PC board.
Check the voltages at pin 1 of IC2
and pins 12, 11 & 8 of IC1. These
should all be at 12V with respect to
ground. Also check the orientation
of the diodes and that the zener
diodes are in their correct positions.
fuse the transformer is putting out
the correct voltages.
I recall some time ago reading that
toroids have a high inrush current
and require higher-rated fuses than
conventional transformers but cannot find reference to the information
anywhere. I note that the LP Doctor
described in January 2001 uses a
1A slow-blow despite the obviously
minimal current of the operat
ing
circuit and assume the fuse type is to
prevent the problem I am observing.
Should I use a slow-blow type fuse?
(G. C. via email).
• The fuse in the LP Doctor is wrong.
It should have been 150mA slowblow. We suggest that you use the
same value for your EQ unit. The
article on fuse protection in toroids
was published in the March 1995
issue. We can supply it for $7.70
including postage.
Turbo timer runs
at switch-on
I have installed the Turbo Timer,
described in the November 1998 issue, on a Toyota 2.2 litre 4-cylinder
diesel. The problem is that the timer
appears to be running as soon as I
start the engine for the correct time
but it does not run when the engine is
turned off. I have checked the wiring
a couple of times but cannot find a
fault. I must have made a mistake
somewhere. Can you please assist?
(D. S., via email).
• There is possibly a wiring error on
your Turbo Timer, with the 87 and 87a
terminals on the relay (RLY1) transposed. Alterna
tively, the ignition
voltage may not fall quickly when it is
switched off due to an accessory that
is connected to the ignition which has
some storage capacitance.
You could try placing a 100Ω 5W
wire wound resistor between terminal 87a of RLY1 and 0V (ie, chassis).
This should discharge any capacitance across the ignition supply.
Ballast resistor
runs very hot
I recently installed a High Energy
Ignition System (described in June
1998) into a Subaru Fiori and while
the unit works very well, the temperature of both the ballast resistor and
the coil worry me a little.
The resistor is so hot it will blister
skin if touched and while the coil is
not as hot, it is still quite warm.
I realise that the average DC current
will be greater now (about twice) and
that the unit is current limited. I am
still concerned about the long term
effects of the high temperatures,
particularly on the resistor. Any
comments? (B. S., Canberra, ACT).
• Any high power wirewound resistor will run at very high surface
temperatures when running at more
than 50% of its rated power. You
could always reduce the current limit
figure somewhat and also ensure that
airflow around the coil and ballast
resistor is as unrestricted as possible.
Connecting the theremin
to a guitar amplifier
I just purchased a Theremin kit
(described in the August 2000 issue)
and was wondering if I could replace
the line out from an AV type plug to
one that could plug into a guitar amp?
(L. J., via email).
• Yes, you can connect the Theremin
to a guitar amplifier but you will need
to reduce the signal level. Connect
a 10kΩ resistor in series with the
10µF output capacitor and replace
the existing 10kΩ resistor at the
output with a value of 1kΩ. This will
reduce the Theremin’s output from
a nominal 500mV to 50mV.
Running two tubes
with the fluoro inverter
I intend to purchase a kit for the
high efficiency fluorescent inverter
from Altronics but I have a question
about it. Will this kit run two 20W
tubes in parallel? (J. H., via email).
• In existing form, the inverter
will not drive two tubes in parallel
because once the first tube ignites,
there will be insufficient voltage to
ignite the second.
The only way to do it would be
to have a common 340V supply and
then build separate driver circuits
(involving transformer T2 and Mos
fets Q3 & Q4) for each tube. The easiest way to do that would probably be
to purchase an extra PC board (from
RCS Radio) and use the driver end
of the second board to power the
second tube.
BOOK REVIEWS – continued from page 89
headings. In the introductory section
there are chapters on robot basics,
tools and supplies, buying parts,
common electronic components,
electronic construction techniques
and fundamentals of programming.
Section 2 has chapters on building
robot platforms out of plastic, metal
and wood, LEGO-based robots and
LEGO Mindstorms RCX.
Section 3 is entitled “Power, Motors
and Locomotion” and has chapters
on batteries, DC motors, steppers and
servos.
Section 4 has practical robot pro-
jects including a 6-legged walking robot and a few robot arms. Incidentally,
how the book comes to be subtitled
with “99 inexpensive robotics pro
jects” is a mystery; there are only a
few complete robots described.
Section 5 is entitled “Computers
and Electronic Control” and has
chapters on interfacing computer
and Microcontrollers, using the Basic STAMP, the BasicX and OOPic
microcontrollers and remote control
systems.
Finally, Section 6 is on “Sensors
and Navigation” and has chapters on
Notes & Errata
LP Doctor, January 2001: the specified
fuse is wrong. It should be 150mA
slow-blow.
PIC Programmer and Checkerboard,
March 2001: the text on page 69
(third column) refers to jumper J2 and
switches SW3 and SW4. These should
be JP2, S11 and S12, respectively.
The circuit diagram and overlay are
correct.
On the PC board, there is insufficient space to fit the 2200µF 25V
filter capacitor but a value of 1000µF
25VW will be adequate. Also the
10kΩ pullup resistor for RA4 on the
LCD adapter is not low enough to
give reliable operation. Use a value
of 4.7kΩ instead.
Bass Blazer, February 2001: some
filter PC boards (code 01102011) may
not have a connection between pin 4
of IC6 and V+. This connection provides power to IC6. If your PC board
has this error, use a short length of fine
insulated hook-up wire to connect IC6
pin 4 to the cathode end of D9.
The relevant PC artwork on our
website has been corrected.
sense of touch, collision avoidance
and detection, fire detection, sound
input and output, tilt and gravity
sensors.
In summary, this is a pretty useful
book although, as mentioned above,
you need to have reasonable electronics and related mechanical skills to
get the best out of it. It also has a good
list of web sites for further research.
Our copy came direct from the
publisher. (L.D.S.)
Note: the above books are available
through major retailers such as Jaycar,
Dick Smith Electronics, Altronics and
from the Technical Bookshop, Melbourne and other major book retailers.
WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage. All such
projects should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely. Readers are warned that high voltage wiring should be
carried out according to the instructions in the articles. When working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do
not accidentally come into contact with mains AC voltages or high voltage DC. If you are not confident about working with projects
employing mains voltages or other high voltages, you are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd
disclaims any liability for damages should anyone be killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue of
SILICON CHIP magazine. Devices or circuits described in SILICON CHIP may be covered by patents. SILICON CHIP disclaims any
liability for the infringement of such patents by the manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also disclaims
any liability for projects which are used in such a way as to infringe relevant government regulations and by-laws.
Advertisers are warned that they are responsible for the content of all advertisements and that they must conform to the Trade
Practices Act 1974 or as subsequently amended and to any governmental regulations which are applicable.
April 2001 93
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Street _____________________________________________________
Suburb/town _________________________ Postcode______________
94 Silicon Chip
FOR SALE
TIME LAPSE 24 hour VCRs only $649
April Only National Service Centers
* Multinational Manufacturer ! * VCR
Controller use a std home VCR for Surveillance Event Recording Wireless IR
Control only $39 * QUAD 1024 H-Pixels
from $175 * COLOUR QUAD only ! $389
* DOME VIDEO CAMERAS from $53
! COLOUR from $77 ! BULLET from
$97 TWO YEAR WARRANTY * DIY
PLUG-IN 20 m AV Cables from $20 *
DOME 480 Line 0.05 Lux SONY CCD
& ChipSet from $81 * COLOUR DSP
DOME: 400 Line from $139 * 600 + Line
from $164 * COLOUR DSP PIN in PIR
CASE from $152 * MINI CAMS from
$67 * DSP COLOUR from $133 * PC
REMOTE VIEW, PAGING, WEB-CAM,
DVR System High 768 x 576 Resolution
from $219 * MULTIPLEXER 4 Ch from
$633 * 4 Ch / 8 Ch Switchers only $79 /
$99 ! COLOUR Bullet Cameras from
$122 * Digital PC 4 Ch Video Recorder
System from $159 * BLEMISH FREE
& LOW BLEMISH CCDs * UP TO 5
YEARS WARRANTY * OVERNIGHT
DELIVERY *
www.allthings.com.au
Go to www.questronix.com.au for
Video Equipment, Information, Techo
Links & Monthly Specials.
TELEPHONE EXCHANGE SIMULATOR: test equipment without the cost
of telephone lines. Melb 9806 0110.
http://www.alphalink.com.au/~zenere
COVERT VIDEO SURVEILLANCE Tiny
Sub-Matchbox from ~ 6 grams Wireless
Video & Audio TRANSMITTERS from
$77 * Pinhole Cameras from $67. Easily concealed in: Mobile Phone Case,
Clock, VCR Cassette, Toys, Teddy Bear
(Nanny-Cam), Smoke Detector, Ornament, Cap, Cigarette Pack, etc. www.
allthings.com.au
WEATHER STATIONS: Windspeed &
direction, inside temperature, outside
temperature & windchill. Records highs
& lows with time and date as they occur.
Optional rainfall and PC interface. Used
by Government Departments, farmers,
pilots, and weather enthusiasts. Other
models with barometric pressure,
humidity, dew point, solar radiation,
UV, leaf wetness, etc. Just phone, fax
or write for our FREE catalogue and
price list. Solar Flair/Ecowatch phone:
(03) 5968 4863; fax: (03) 5968 5810,
PO Box 18, Emerald, Vic., 3782. ACN
006 399 480.
ROLA AUSTRALIA
PH/FAX (08) 8270 3175
WEB SITE WWW.BETTANET.NET.AU/GTD
CHECK OUR WEBSITE FOR DETAILS ON KITS AND
COMPONENTS
•
•
•
•
TRANSMITTER KITS AND MODULES
AUDIO MODULES
COMPUTER INTERFACE KITS
RADIO STATION AUDIO SOFTWARE
NEW: Our MP3-CD player in short form for $169 inc GST.
Includes the following: processor board, front panel display
and tactile keypad; just add a case, cables, 12V power supply
and a CD-ROM drive. Play CDs and up to 2600 MP3’s from a
CDR. Great for car or home.
KITS KITS AND MORE KITS! Check
‘em out at www.ozitronics.com
Satellite TV Reception
SEE-in-the-DARK Camera with in-built
IR LEDs in Water Resistant Case for
disturbance-free Baby - Bird - Animal
observation from $147 * DIY Plug-In
20 metre Cable & Plug Pack from $33
* www.allthings.com.au
International satellite
TV reception in your
home is now affordable.
Send for your free info
pack containing equipment catalog, satellite
lists, etc or call for appointment to view.
We can display all satellites from 76.5°
to 180°.
UNIVERSAL DEVICE PROGRAMMER: Low cost, high performance,
48-pin, works in DOS or Windows inc
NT/2000. $1320. Universal EPROM
programmer $429. Also adaptors, (E)
EPROM, PIC, 8051 programmers,
EPROM simulator and eraser.
Dunfield C Compilers: Everything you
need to develop C and ASM software
for 68HC08, 6809, 68HC11, 68HC12,
68HC16, 8051/52, 8080/85, 8086,
8096 or AVR: $198 each. Demo disk
available.
ImageCraft C Compilers: 32-bit
Windows IDE and compiler. For AVR,
68HC11, 68HC12. $396.
Atmel Flash CPU Programmer:
Handles the 89Cx051, 89C5x, 89Sxx
in both DIP and PLCC44 and some
AVR’s, most 8-pin EEPROMS. Includes
socket for serial ISP cable. $220, $11
p&p. SOIC adaptors: 20 pin $99, 14 pin
$93.50, 8 pin $88.
Full details on web site. Credit cards
accepted.
GRANTRONICS PTY LTD, PO Box 275,
Wentworthville 2145. (02) 9896 7150 or
http://www.grantronics.com.au
HOME CCTV Mono / Colour PAKS
only ! $119 / $151 Full DIY Plug-In to
TV / VCR 20 metre Cable, Plug Pack &
Camera www.allthings.com.au
RCS HAS MOVED to 41 Arlewis St,
Chester Hill 2162 and is now open,
with full production. Tel (02) 9738 0330;
Fax 9738 0334. rcsradio<at>cia.com.au;
www.cia.com.au/rcsradio
PCBs MADE, ONE OR MANY. Low
Model Flight Control Modules
AV-COMM P/L, 24/9 Powells Rd,
Brookvale, NSW 2100.
Tel: 02 9939 4377 or 9939 4378.
Fax: 9939 4376; www.avcomm.com.au
PDC 01
SERIAL INTERFACE
$182.60
PDC 10
GPS INTERFACE MODULE
$367.00
PDC 20
ALTITUDE HOLD MODULE
$459.80
PDC25
SPEED HOLD MODULE
$459.80
PDC 400 ALTIMETER AIR-DATA SENSOR $367.40
PDC 450 AIRSPEED-AIR DATA SENSOR $367.00
PDC1200 VIDEO OVERLAY (PAL-D)
$644.60
TRACKER GPS TELEMETRY SOFTWARE
$182.60
PDC 3200 AUTOPILOT AND GROUNDSTATION: PRICE
ON APPLICATION (PRICE DEPENDS ON CONFIGURATION).
(ALL PRICES INCLUDE GST)
Silvertone Electronics,
PO Box 580, Riverwood 2210.
Phone/Fax (02) 9533 3517.
www.silvertone.com.au
Positions At Jaycar
We are often looking for enthusiastic staff
for positions in our retail stores and head
office at Rhodes in Sydney. A genuine
interest in electronics is a necessity. Phone
02 9743 5222 for current vacancies.
prices, hobbyists welcome. Sesame
Electronics Pty Ltd.
sesame<at>internetezy.com.au; http://
members.tripod.com/~sesame_elec
Video Amplifiers, Stabilisers, TBCs,
Converters, Mixers, etc. QUESTRONIX
(02) 9477 3596.
DIY CCTV PAKS
4 Cameras & Switcher .................$354
as above COLOUR ......................$466
4 Cams, Switcher/Monitor ...........$495
as above 14" Monitor ...................$528
4 Cams & QUAD .........................$478
4 COLOUR & QUAD ....................$752
Time-Lapse 24 hr VCR only $599 with
CCTV Systems !
MORE at: www.allthings.com.au
Fully Plug-In DIY Paks with Cables
& Power Supplies ALSO PC Digital
Motion / Sound detection & activated
Video / Audio Recording systems 08
9349 9413.
USB KITS: 1/O Card, Audio Generator,
Voltmeter; also Temperature/Voltage
Need prototype PC boards?
We have the solutions – we print electronics!
Four-day turnaround, less if urgent; Artwork from your own
positive or file; Through hole plating; Prompt postal service; 29
years technical experience; Inexpensive; Superb quality.
Printed Electronics, 12A Aristoc Rd,
Glen Waverley, Vic 3150.
Phone: (03) 9545 3722; Fax: (03) 9545 3561
Call Mike Lynch and check us out!
We are the best for low cost, small runs.
measurement via phone line. http://
www.ar.com.au/~softmark
USB DEVELOPMENT KIT CY3650,
Temperature/Voltage measurement via
phone line, PC-controlled VHF Receiver
http://www.ar.com.au/~softmark
KIT ASSEMBLY
NEVILLE WALKER KIT ASSEMBLY
& REPAIR:
·
Australia wide service
·
Small production runs
·
Specialist “one-off” applications
Phone Neville Walker (07) 3857 2752
Email flashdog<at>optusnet.com.au
continued next page
April 2001 95
DON’T MISS
THE ’BUS
Advertising Index
Altronics................................. Insert
Av-Comm Pty Ltd.........................95
Allthings Sales & Services......94,95
Do you feel left behind by the latest
advances in computer technology? Don’t
miss the bus: get the ’bus!
Includes articles on troubleshooting your
PC, installing and setting up computer
networks, hard disk drive upgrades,
clean installing Windows 98, CPU
upgrades, a basic introduction to Linux
plus much more.
Dick Smith Electronics........... 26-29
EMC Technologies.......................85
Grantronics..................................95
Harbuch Electronics....................83
Instant PCBs................................95
Price: $12.50 (incl. GST) Order now by using the handy order form in this issue or
call (02) 9979 5644, 8.30-5.30 Mon-Fri with your credit card details.
Special subscription offer available only while stocks last.
Silicon Chip Binders
Each binder holds up to 14 issues Heavy
board covers with 2-tone green vinyl covering
SILICON CHIP logo printed in gold-coloured
lettering on spine & cover
Jaycar .........................................13
Mass Electronics....................83,85
McGraw Hill...................................7
REAL
VALUE
AT
$12.95
PLUS P
&
P
Price: $A12.95 plus $A5.50 p&p each (Australia
only; not available elsewhere). Buy five and get
them postage free.
Just fill in & mail the handy order form in this issue;
or fax (02) 9979 6503; or ring (02) 9979 5644 &
quote your credit card number.
Microgram Computers.....3,85,OBC
MicroZed Computers...................85
Oatley Electronics......................IBC
Printed Electronics...................... 95
Questronix...................................85
RF Probes...................................85
Rola Australia..............................95
R.T.N............................................85
Silicon Chip Back Issues........88,89
WANTED
PERSON WITH EXPERIENCE / APTITUDE able to fault find & repair PCBs
– without diagrams. GENEROUS PKG
NEG. Tel John<at>AER (03) 9482 4958
0415 305 470.
DO YOU HAVE A GOOD circuit idea? If
so, sketch it out, write a brief description
of its operation & send it to us. Provided
your idea is workable, we’ll publish it in
Circuit Notebook and you’ll make some
money (up to $60). Silicon Chip Publications, PO Box 139, Collaroy 2097; email
silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au
HELP SAVE THE NIGHT SKY!
We are losing our heritage of starry night skies. Poor, inefficient
outdoor lighting is causing glare and “light pollution”. This wastes
energy and increases greenhouse gas emissions.
You can help by joining SYDNEY OUTDOOR LIGHTING IMPROVEMENT SOCIETY (SOLIS). SOLIS aims to educate and
inform about quality outdoor lighting and its benefits. We also
lobby councils, government and other bodies to promote good
lighting practice. SOLIS meetings are held third Monday night of each month
at Sydney Observatory.
Individual membership is $20 pa. Donations are also welcome. Cheques
payable to “SOLIS c/- NSAS”, PO Box 214, West Ryde 2114.
http://sites.netscape.net/solislp/
96 Silicon Chip
Silicon Chip Binders....................96
Silicon Chip Bookshop............86,87
SC Computer Omnibus...............17
SC EFI Tech Special....................39
Silicon Chip Subscriptions...........57
Silicon Chip Testbench..............IFC
Silvertone Electronics..................95
Solar Flair/Ecowatch....................94
University of Melbourne.................5
_____________________________
PC Boards
Printed circuit boards for SILICON
CHIP projects are made by:
• RCS Radio Pty Ltd. Phone (02)
9738 0330. Fax (02) 9738 0334.
BARGAIN OF THE MONTH
* * N E W * * N E W * * N E W * *
FUTABA 2 CHANNEL RADIO CONTROL
This item is new in Its original box. (NEW) MULTI FUNCTION BATTERY CHARGER / DISCHARGER:
New in original box with instructions. This unit was designed to charge NI-CD & NI-MH
2ER A high-tech, lowmobile phone batteries of 4.8V, 6.0V and 7.2V. Operates from 12-24V DC input.
priced 2-channel radio
Features include processor control & multi stage charge indicator. By changing the
This two-stick, digital
value of one resistor it can charge higher voltages, although a higher voltage plugpack
proportional AM
is required for 9.4V or higher. Includes cigarette lighter lead, 12V / 1A DC plugpack &
system is ideal for
instructions for modifications for higher voltages. The unit has battery
robotics, R/C cars,
charging terminals but the user will have to make their own
boats and planes etc.
adaptor to interface to a battery. The
Features include fine
plugpack supplied alone is worth
trims that are easily
around $30 retail. Weight is 0.9kg.
accessible on the front
$29 15V DC / 1A Plugpack for
panel, Short sticks that allow for full range
charging batteries 9.4V or higher:
of movement and Servo Reversing.
(ZA0055) $6
If you ask when
Includes two
ordering you will receive a free 6-pack of batteries.
S3003 servos,
a R122JE
receiver,
PENTIUM II MOTHERBOARD: Recent VIDEO CAMERAS
battery holder,
motherboard made for the latest CPU's. The output of these cameras below is std
power switch and other accessaries. All for Std ATX form factor. Has 3 x (16-bit) ISA video & can be plugged into the "VIDEO
just $100
slot, 4 x (32-bit) PCI slots, 1 x AGP slot & 3 IN" socket of any Australian std VCR,
JUMBO SERVO KIT...Use it with a wind- x DIMM (memory) slots, On-board 1 x video monitor or TV, or via an RF
screen wiper style motor or / gearbox of PS/2 keyboard, 1 x PS/2 mouse socket, 2 x Modulator to an Ant. Input. The B/W
your choice. This kit is designed to work USB, 1 x parallel, 2 x serial ports. With cameras are Infra Red responsive & can
just like a std R/C servo (with much greater setup manual & CD, IDE & FDD cables. be used in total darkness with IR
power) using 1-2mS pulse width. It has Brand new in original box. Accepts Intel Illumination.
proportional control ie. if you move the Pentium II & Intel Celeron CPU's (NOT MONOCHROME CCD VIDEO CAMERA
joystick a little, the servo moves a little. It SUPPLIED) from 233 to 800MHz. The B&W Camera built on a PCB with auto iris.
can be used with a std. R/C receiver or with CPU socket is SLOT-1, S-370 CPU could (0.1 lux). Can be focused sharply down to
our servo controller kit. Some applications be use with a converter board (NOT a few mm(useful for people
inc... R/C models, Robotics, Gates & SUPPLIED). Selectable 66 & 100MHz with visual impairDoors, Fly by wire control (with our servo BUS speeds & a clock multiplier up to 8 ment). Spec.:
controller) of things like Forward controls times. Should accept Pentium III CPU's, Power req.: 10V to
for outboards (steering, throttle etc), Pan & on a 100MHz bus: (SP6XS) $90
12V <at> approx.
tilt of Cameras, Antenna dishes etc. Could 20 x 2 LCD BACKLIT CHARACTER 50mA.CCD: 1/3",
be used as a winch
30grams: with 60° $89, with 92° lens:
DISPLAY:
for sails etc. with the
SUGAR CUBE CMOS B/W CAMERA:
addition of a multi
(Reviewed EA Sept. 1999) This (16 x 16 x
turn pot & a winch
15mm) black & white video camera
drum. Kit includes
includes a pinhole lens with a field of view
PCB, all onboard parts, feedback pot &
of 56 x 42 degrees. Resolution is 240 TV
suitable mini case $35 (arm or winch
lines (288 x 352 pixels), 1/3" CMOS Image
drum not included)
Sensor, 2:1 interlace with a shutter speed
DUAL SERVO CONTROLLER KIT
Made by Optrex model #DMC2059 (this of 1/60 to 1/60,000. Other features include
This is designed to control R/C
model is not listed on the Optrex web site, auto exposure control, backlight
servos with 1-2mS pulse with.
but data is available for similar 20 x 2 compensation, auto gain control. Has an
Ideal for use with our
displays). Each character measures AGC disable pin which can be tied low for
Jumbo Servo kit or with
approximately 6mm x 8mm, display area outdoor use. It operates from 5V DC and
std servos. Applications
122mm w x 30mm h. PCB dimensions only draws 10mA: (CAM2) $70
include testing of R/C
151mm wide x 56mm high. Uses standard COLOUR CMOS CAMERA :
servos pan and tilt of
Hitachi chipset (HD44780) mounted on a By around the middle of this month we
cameras etc. Std.
PCB with LED backlight & dual row 16 pin should have in stock a very small colour
kit includes PCB all
header: (DL8) $11 ea or 3 for $27
CMOS camera not much bigger than the
onboard components, suitable case and
sugar cube camera above. CMOS camera
pots. $14.... Std. Kit plus power supply 12 BUTTON KEYPAD:
picture quality has improved greatly. It
suitable for powering 1 Jumbo Servo $24 Matrix style with a 7 pin
should sell for around $120
connector. The buttons
MICRO SWITCHES
are metal and this whole
STEREO
FM TRANSMITTER KIT:
3 mini micro switch assembly
keypad appears to be
This kit accepts a stereo line input from
on a 600mm cable with a small
very rugged. Looks
any source and will transmit it on the FM
plug. 3 assemvery similar to keyRadio band between 88-108MHz. This kit
blies for $5
pads used in public
is based around the BA1404 FM
telephones.
Overall
dimensions
are
70mm
SOLENOID: #1
modulator IC. The transmitter in this IC is
wide
by
79mm
high.
Each
button
This solenoid pushes a small shaft
not very stable in terms of frequency so
(diameter 4mm) a distance of 2mm. Coil measures 10mm square. This keypad our kit uses our FM Transmitter MKII for
would be very suitable for security the transmitter section. It operates from 6resistance is 60
a p p l i c a t i o n s d u e t o i t ' s r u g g e d 12V DC and draws 8mA <at> 9V. 25 x 65mm
ohms. Operates
construction: (GKP1) $3.50 ea or 3 for $9 PCB size. PCB plus all on-board
from 12V DC.
Body is 29mm
components, plus battery connector and 2
12V AUTOMOTIVE RELAY:
long, 22mm diameter: (MA1)
electret microphones: (K094) $25
Has 30A SPDT
Contacts with
8 CHANNEL PC CONTROLLED RELAY
SOLENOID: #2
73ohm relay
INTERFACE KIT: Ref: Silicon Chip Sept
This solenoid punches a small 1.5mm coil. These are
2000. Operates eight relays from a PC
diameter hole in a piece of cardboard or the standard
parallel port. Kit inc. PCB & all on-board
paper. It was probably used to punch holes size and normally
parts inc. eight relays (2 higher current)
in phonecards. Coil resistance
retail for around
with indicating LED's & DB25 connector.
is 7ohms. Operates from
$7 each: (RL3) $3 each
Also some simple software
12V DC. Body measures
(NEW) INKJET PRINTER COMBIPACK: on disk. written in Basic
34mm long, 40mm diaPelikan brand A4 size pack for Canon to operate the kit:
meter: (MA2) (MA1) +
Colour Inkjet printers (you could probably (K164) $40
(MA2) $2.20 pair
use it with any brand inkjet). Includes 25 A suitable DB25
or 3 pairs for $5
Join our Bargain Corner Mailing List sheets of inkjet paper type IJP740, 5 male to DB25
We will send information on latest updates sheets of inkjet glossy paper type IJP710 female data
to Bargain Corner and Test Equipment for professional colour prints and 5 sheets cable is also
ItemsTo join send a blank email message of inkjet type OHP-CGF620 OHP film available for
this kit: (K164C) $8
to: subscribe<at>oatleyelectronics.com (Clear): (ZA0207) $9 per pack
CCD CAMERA INTERFACE KIT:
Ref: Electronics Australia
October 2000. This kit
is designed to
interface
between CCD
Cameras and
a Television.
Features include
regulated 11V to power the camera, an
audio amp with an LM386 IC & a VHF
video modulator for use with TV antenna
inputs. Input to the kit is 14 - 17V AC or DC.
The PCB also has provision for a UHF A/V
Modulator Kit inc. PCB & all on-board
components inc. VHF Modulator, electret
mic, speaker & a plastic case: (K163) $18
Kit with CA41L92 CCD Camera: (K163C)
$95 Suitable Plugpack: (PP13) $9 UHF
A/V Modulator: (RM1) $18
NEW 30M 10A
EXTENSION
LEAD
HEAVY DUTY
TRADES QUALITY
$30
VIDEO SYNC. STABILISERS
During this month we should have them in
stock. these devices are used to strip and
reinsert the sync. pulse and thus cleaning
up videos. It has been suggested to us that
these units could be used to copy
commercial videos and DVDs but we do
not condone any breach of copyright.
Dependant on exchange rates they
should sell for less than $20
Ring or E-mail us for further details
DC MOTOR WITH FEEDBACK:
12 to 24V starts at 3V. Coil resistance is
13ohms. Body measures 58mm long,
40mm diameter, shaft diameter 4mm,
pulley on shaft diameter
8.5mm. The
feedback
section uses
a hall effect
sensor with a
magnet on the
end of the motor
shaft. An output
via a BA14741F op-amp and an open
collector transistor gives a pulse for each
revolution so the speed could be
accurately maintained. The motor can be
used independent of the feedback
section: (M44) $7 each of 3 for $17
(USED) SAMSUNG TELEPHONE: Why
pay a few dollars rental each month for
your telephone? These used (ExOlympics) Samsung telephones will
appear in "as new" condition after a couple
of minutes cleaning. They feature Recall,
Redial-Pause and On Hook keys. A light
flashes when the telephone rings and it
can be wall mounted by 2 screws (Screws
are not provided), the plastic part that
secures the handset will have to be
reversed so to hold the handset in the
vertical position. Has an adjustable 3
position switch for the Speaker volume
and an adjustable 3 position switch for the
Ringer volume.
A line lead is
NOT
provided:
(ZA0201)
$14 each
or 3 for $33
CHECK OUT OUR BARGAIN
CORNER FOR
G R E AT
B A R G A I N S L I K E
THESE...AVO Multi-meters
$30... Megger-meters
$35...Great bargains at a
fraction of the new cost.
www.oatleyelectronics.com Orders: Ph ( 02 ) 9584 3563 or 64, Fax 9584 3561, sales<at>oatleyelectronics.com, PO Box 89 Oatley NSW 2223
major cards with ph. & fax orders, Post & Pack typically $7 Prices subject to change without notice ACN 068 740 081 ABN18068 740 081
SC_MAR_01
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