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siliconchip.com.au
December 2005 1
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
Contents
Vol.18, No.12; December 2005
www.siliconchip.com.au
FEATURES
22 Car Sound On The Cheap; Pt.2
Buying the amplifier and subwoofer and the wiring options – by Julian Edgar
40 The Microbric Viper
No soldering required: all you need is a screwdriver to build this state-of-theart programmable robot and all the bits are reusable – by Ross Tester
61 Excellence In Education Technology Awards
Universal High-Energy Ignition
System – Page 30.
SILICON CHIP’s new awards for electronics technology in education
PROJECTS TO BUILD
8 Building The Ultimate Jukebox; Pt.1
This Jukebox won’t eat up your $2 coins but gives you all the features you
want. You build it using a computer, an amplifier module and a speaker, plus
some specialised jukebox software – by Ross Tester
30 Universal High-Energy Ignition System; Pt.1
It works with a variety of trigger inputs and uses a PIC microcontroller to
control the switching transistor – by John Clarke
62 Remote LED Annunciator For Queue Control
Got a queue situation? This project will stop the arguments and punch-ups
by ensuring that people are served in their turn – by Jim Rowe
72 Build A MIDI Drum Kit; Pt.2
It offers a staggering 546 drum sounds and there’s not a stretched skin in
sight! Here’s how to build the control unit – by John Clarke
The Microbric Viper – Page 40.
85 433MHz Wireless Data Communication
Want to get your Picaxe talking without wires? We show you how to use
Jaycar’s dirt cheap 433MHz UHF data modules, plus there’s a 433MHz Yagi
antenna to build – by Stan Swan
96 PIC In-Circuit Programming Add-On Adaptor
What, no in-circuit programming facility on your PIC Programmer? Here’s
how you can add this useful feature – by Keith Anderson
SPECIAL COLUMNS
44 Circuit Notebook
(1) Solar Hot Water Differential Pump Controller; (2) The Mystery Swinger;
(3) Clap-Controlled Switch
48 Serviceman’s Log
Remote LED Annunciator
For Queue Control – Page 62.
Diagnostic codes: help or hindrance? – by the TV Serviceman
82 Salvage It!
So you’ve scrounged a VCR? Let’s salvage the good bits – by Julian Edgar
98 Vintage Radio
Ray Kelly and the Historical Radio Society of Aust. – by Rodney Champness
DEPARTMENTS
2
4
92
103
Publisher’s Letter
Mailbag
Product Showcase
Order Form
siliconchip.com.au
106
108
110
111
Ask Silicon Chip
Notes & Errata
Market Centre
Ad Index
433MHz Data Communications
For Your Picaxe – Page 85.
December 2005 1
SILICON
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Publisher & Editor-in-Chief
Leo Simpson, B.Bus., FAICD
Production Manager
Greg Swain, B.Sc.(Hons.)
Technical Editor
Peter Smith
Technical Staff
John Clarke, B.E.(Elec.)
Ross Tester
Jim Rowe, B.A., B.Sc, VK2ZLO
Reader Services
Ann Jenkinson
Advertising Enquiries
Lawrence Smith
Benedictus Smith Pty Ltd
Phone (02) 9211 8035
Fax: (02) 9211 0068
lawrence<at>benedictus-smith.com
Regular Contributors
Brendan Akhurst
Rodney Champness, VK3UG
Julian Edgar, Dip.T.(Sec.), B.Ed,
Grad.Dip.Jnl
Mike Sheriff, B.Sc, VK2YFK
Stan Swan
SILICON CHIP is published 12 times
a year by Silicon Chip Publications
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Publisher’s Letter
Encouraging excellence in
schools and universities
This month, on page 61, we are announcing our inaugural 2006 award for Excellence
in Education Technology. With a prize pool of
$10,000, we are seeking to make a significant
statement in our drive to promote the study
and use of electronic technology in all facets of
society. SILICON CHIP has survived and grown
over 18 years, due to the support of our readers
and advertisers. Now we want to give something
back, to promote electronics in Australia.
While so much of the media keeps harping on about the loss of manufacturing and skills to Asia, we know that the real story is much more upbeat.
Yes, most consumer product manufacturing has moved off-shore but there
still remains a lot of niche manufacturers in Australia, producing all sorts
of specialised equipment. Our universities and TAFE colleges are also centres of excellence, often doing wonderful research and development with
resources that are only a fraction of those available to overseas academic
institutions.
We want to promote this excellence. We also want to publish some of the
many stories of interesting research in our universities and ultimately, we
want to make awards for the best projects.
Furthermore, we want to promote the interest in electronics in schools.
There is quite a substantial amount of electronics in the secondary schools’
curricula now but some teachers go out of their way to be innovative in
teaching and encouraging their students, to produce great assignments
and participate in interesting group projects. An example of this was the
automated pedestrian crossing system devised by students at Sydney’s East
Hills Girls Technology School. We reported on that story in the February
2005 issue.
Who knows where those girls at that school will end up, because of their
participation in that electronic project? MD of a technology company? Research scientist? Technology adviser to an insurance company or government institution? Whatever the outcome, they will all be enriched by the
experience.
So here we are in December 2005 announcing what we hope will grow
to become a significant annual event, promoting excellence and giving
acknowledgement to those lecturers and teachers who are trying to make a
big difference. We know that most universities and TAFE colleges have all
but closed for the end-of-year holidays and that schools are also very close
to the end of term but the message should get out there.
If you are a secondary school teacher or lecturer at a tertiary institution,
make sure you are in the running for the awards next year. And if you are
a school student or you have a son or daughter in secondary school, make
sure your school knows about the award. Better still, why not think about
starting your own project which could be in the running?
Leo Simpson
ISSN 1030-2662
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MAILBAG
Flash point
and volatility
In your September 2005 article on
the Bilge Sniffer, there seems to be
some confusion with volatility and
flash point. The flash point of petrol
is somewhere in the vicinity of 150°C,
whereas the flash point of diesel is
about 70°C. The definition of flash
point is “the temperature at which, if
a drop of fuel is touched to a surface
of that temperature, the fuel will selfignite or flash”.
Note that it does not need a flame
or spark. And notice how diesel fuel
is more dangerous if let loose onto
hot surfaces.
However, there is a feature of fuels
that we don’t usually know and that
is vapour pressure, which is linked to
volatility. Its definition is “the pressure
required to hold vapours in a liquid at
a specific temperature”. This is about
10psi for motor spirit at 38°C, whereas
kerosene and similarly diesel have a
much lower pressure of 0.2psi at 38°C.
Volatility is “the tendency for fuel to
vaporise under given conditions”.
With all this, gaseous fuels are usually more dangerous than liquid fuels,
as most gaseous fuel mixtures that are
commonly used are heavier than air
and flow to the lowest point in closed
vessel; where our noses cannot readily
detect them.
For all this, I think that John has
done a great job with the detector.
Brian Bannister,
via email.
Comment: you make some valid points
although there was no specific mention of volatility or flash point in the
article.
Visual Basic for the
Electrocardiograph
I read the question and answer
on this topic in “Ask SILICON CHIP”
(September 2005, Page 106) response
with interest, being a Visual Basic
Programmer and electronics hobbyist.
It was good information about the USB
interface being supplied with a driver
to emulate a serial port.
However in the interest of the by4 Silicon Chip
now-confused reader who asked the
original question, I need to correct
some of the information supplied.
DCOM 98 has nothing to do with the
COM port.
It’s another confusing computer acronym. DCOM stands for Distributed
Component Object model. 500-page
books have been written to try to explain its purpose and operation, so let’s
just say it allows you to run a software
component installed on one machine
from another.
The component you were referring
to is in fact the MSComm.ocx control
that shipped with the professional edition of VB3 and above but not always
with the standard edition.
It allows communications with
a serial port. If you don’t have the
pro edition, don’t despair. Like most
things in Visual Basic it can be done
in code. A quick search of the internet
will provide the answer. I found this
page that provides a down-load and a
quick tutorial:
http://www.yes-tele.com/mscomm.html
I hope this helps. I find the ability to
communicate with electronics projects
via the PC very interesting.
I would often like to modify the
software in the same way many people
will modify the project. To this end I
would love to see more source code
published with your projects, even if
it is via your website. There are lots
of home automation projects that lend
themselves to being controlled via
Visual Basic.
Max Healey,
via email.
Comments on
Ask SILICON CHIP
I have some comments on the August 2005 issue.
In “Ask SILICON CHIP” on page 104,
P. D., raised the subject of processing
delays in plasma displays. One would
hope that the display manufacturers
would supply a delay facility for the
audio to match that of the video (but
that would probably only be 2-channel). Your advice of trying the proposed screen with your audio equip-
ment seems to be fairly impractical.
If this problem is as widespread as
you indicate, given your position as
the leading technical publication in
this field, it would be good if you could
do some research or your own tests to
actually quantify the delays involved.
Lip sync problems are usually only
apparent when the differential delay
exceeds 100ms.
Apart from the problems with
plasma processing times, the studios
themselves are usually the biggest culprits in causing additive differential
delay, due to too many frame stores in
series without using expensive audio
tracking delay lines that are matched
to the frame stores.
Also on page 104, C. D., spoke of
a subwoofer problem. It wasn’t clear
that the special cable he was using
was shielded. If not, shielding may
help. Beyond that, converting the
interconnection to be balanced could
be a solution.
On page 105, G. C. wanted help
with eliminating interference to video
signals. Hard-of-hearing people do
not need more bass, so a high-pass
filter on the input to the induction
loop amplifier could be a solution to
keeping the low frequencies out of the
loop. A compressor on the feed to the
induction loop amplifier would be an
alternative to the high-pass filter.
It would seem to me that an induction loop that produces a signal 10
metres outside the building is being
driven with far too much power and
just a simple attenuation of the input
to the amplifier may be a complete
solution.
Run the video in balanced mode on
a twisted pair. A couple of SILICON CHIP
siliconchip.com.au
advertisers offer video baluns/VGA
extenders that will convert the signal
to balanced to easily cover many times
the distance specified.
On page 106, P. M. queried a tapping halfway up the chain of cells in
a battery. In some packs, I have found
that this is simply for a lower speed
option on the drill. This is poor design
as it can lead to half the cells being
discharged while the others are left
fully charged.
Finally, the article on your Carbon
Monoxide Alert project suggests that
drivers put their car ventilation onto
recirculate when high CO concentrations are detected. This seems to be
dubious advice as that would lock you
into a closed, relatively low volume
where there was no chance of lowering
the concentration. If this is necessary,
it should only be used for a very short
time. Ideally you should sense both
inside and outside the vehicle and
select which ever gives you the lowest
concentration.
Running on “recirculate” is meant
to be only for exceptional conditions,
as it can be quite dangerous if there
are any CO leaks into the cabin from
the vehicle’s own defects.
On the latest cars, even if you select
“recirculate”, this will be periodically
overridden by the HVAC computer to
ensure that the cabin air is purged to
minimise the risk of passengers being
affected by any buildup of harmful
gases.
Graham Goeby,
via email.
Valves, nostalgia
and self-deception
Remember when hifi was a glorious
mixture of science and art? All the
clever compromises that were made
to approach fidelity: big transformers with taps all over the place, rats’
nests of components at the back of a
rotary switch to cope with various
response curves from various record
companies, weird shapes for styli,
strange tonearms, tonearm counterbalances, turntables straight from Heath
Robinson, etc.
To understand the concepts involved, you had to be an enthusiast but
not much more. You could talk about
it, fiddle with it and feel that you were
a part of a world-wide community of
siliconchip.com.au
cognoscenti. At the centre of it all was
a valve amplifier. We used to joke that
we wanted to replace it with a “straight
piece of copper wire, with gain” but
we really didn’t.
Remember how much of that science
and art was devoted to overcoming
shortcomings inherent in the valve
amplifier? Well, now we have it: the
bits come off the CD and go through
to the back of the speaker as if via a
straight piece of copper wire with gain
and we have nothing to talk about. All
we can do is listen to the music.
Which reminds me of something
else: remember how many of those
enthusiasts never actually listened
to music?
Tony Turner,
via email.
Comment: yep, we remember that
ideal: a straight wire with gain. Many
people apparently don’t want straight
wire.
New preamp does
not have phono stage
I don’t believe it! Your new preamplifier (SILICON CHIP, October 2005)
comes without an RIAA/phono input
preamp! If SILICON CHIP has presented
a valve amplifier design (from the era
when 78 RPM recordings were the
norm), why would you not include
an RIAA input on a contemporary
preamplifier?
33 RPM vinyl disks are enjoying
a resurgence of interest and many
people (myself included) still have an
extensive collection of vinyl recordings. Sure you could convert them to
CD format (you would still need an
RIAA preamp) but to do so well takes
time. For a disk you might only listen
to once a year, it is probably not worth
the effort.
Another oversight in the design of
this preamplifier is the absence of an
attenuation network on the CD input,
so that the higher output level which
may be presented by some CD players
can be equalised to the lower output
levels of the other audio sources.
Regarding the Mudlark valve amplifier (SILICON CHIP, August & September
2005), adverse comments from audiophiles with golden ears have been
remarkably absent. Silicon diodes in
the power supply? Valves mounted on
a PC board? Don’t 555 ICs oscillate?
Atmel’s AVR, from
JED in Australia
JED has designed a range of
single board computers and
modules as a way of using the
AVR without SMT board design
The AVR570 module (above) is a way of
using an ATmega128 CPU on a user base
board without having to lay out the intricate,
surface-mounted surrounds of the CPU, and
then having to manufacture your board on
an SMT robot line. Instead you simply layout
a square for four 0.1” spaced socket strips
and plug in our pre-tested module. The
module has the crystal, resetter, AVR-ISP
programming header (and an optional JTAG
ICE pad), as well as programming signal
switching. For a little extra, we load a DS1305
RTC, crystal and Li battery underneath,
which uses SPI and port G.
See JED’s www site for a datasheet.
AVR573 Single Board Computer
This board uses the AVR570 module and
adds 20 An./Dig. inputs, 12 FET outputs, LCD/
Kbd, 2xRS232, 1xRS485, 1-Wire, power reg.
etc. See www.jedmicro.com.au/avr.htm
$330 PC-PROM Programmer
This programmer plugs into a PC printer
port and reads, writes and edits any 28 or
32-pin PROM. Comes with plug-pack, cable
and software.
Also available is a multi-PROM UV eraser
with timer, and a 32/32 PLCC converter.
JED Microprocessors Pty Ltd
173 Boronia Rd, Boronia, Victoria, 3155
Ph. 03 9762 3588, Fax 03 9762 5499
www.jedmicro.com.au
December 2005 5
Mailbag: continued
No-one has noted the use of fluorescent
lighting ballast chokes as inductors in
the design.
What sacrilege! Can you imagine
how this will affect the ambience
ratio? (This measure quantifies the
difference between what you think
you hear and what you actually hear!)
Now if the inductors were wound with
oxygen-free copper on polypropylene
formers and then dipped in Peruvian
beeswax (chosen for its superior sonic
qualities), praise and approval might
be forthcoming from the golden-eared
brigade!
Peter van Schaik,
Tenterfield, NSW.
Comment: it is true that there is continuing interest in vinyl records. That
is why we produced the LP Doctor
project in the January & February 2001
issues. It can easily be hooked up to the
new preamplifier and together with its
ability to reduce clicks and pops on old
records, represents the best approach
for playing records.
Valves and
self-delusion
I just wanted to add my five cents
to the whole valve versus solid-state
debate that seems to be happening at
SILICON CHIP these days. I had never
heard valves before I made the hifi
version of the Valve Preamplifier described in the February 2004 issue of
SILICON CHIP. I built it with no great
expectations, beliefs, prejudices, etc.
I just thought it would be fun and
interesting.
Well it turned out to be the best
sounding preamp I have had in my
system! Please note that I say best
sounding, not best measuring! I build
hifi components to save money and
listen to music, not to impress anyone
with spectacular measurements. I run
the preamp into a Rotel power amplifier and also into the SILICON CHIP
headphone amplifier (May 2002).
I certainly don’t think I am deluding
myself. I can’t see the valves in operation because they are hidden away in a
metal case, nor can I feel their warmth!
In fact the whole thing is in a cupboard
which is just as well because the power
6 Silicon Chip
supply is annoyingly noisy.
I sure do hope you continue with
valves, especially small-signal stuff
like preamps and headphone amplifiers. I would love to see a valve
equivalent to Peter Smith’s current
solid-state preamp, with relay switching, headphone amplifier, remote
volume, etc. Surely you realise there
is a market there regardless of how
deluded you think it is?
Rob Knutsen,
Doncaster, Vic.
Scanners worth
salvaging
I am a fan of recycling and enjoy
the “Salvage It!” articles. There are a
lot of older scanners ending up on the
kerbside lately (driver incompatibility
with XP perhaps?) and there are some
great components in these that can be
recovered.
There is a cold cathode tube with an
inverter (usually 12V or 24V to power
and a pin to short to turn it on), front
surface mirrors (OK for light/laser
experimentation) a good lens, a stepper motor (often geared) plus a drive
pulley and belt, a LED/phototransistor
limit detector, switching power supply
and other components.
I don’t have a particular project in
mind but thought that the above may
be of interest or maybe trigger an idea
for Julian Edgar.
Russell Verdon,
Wollongong, NSW.
Alternative satellite
image site
Your article on Google Earth in the
October 2005 issue was very interesting. However, it failed to mention the
http://www.ozabove.com satellite service
that is available to Australians free of
charge, delivering about 20 images
daily, much more up-to-date than
Google.
The image resolution is 1km per
pixel. That’s better than what the BOM
(Bureau of Meteorology) has and it can
be very useful for anyone interested
in the weather as well as sea surface
temperatures. For example, fishermen
should find that very useful for locat-
ing warm waters meeting cold in the
southern ocean.
The site is currently used by the
Siding Spring Observatory as well as
the Mt Stromlo Satellite Laser Ranging
facility, as it delivers the resolution
and timeliness required for their applications.
Balthasar Indermuehle,
Glebe, NSW.
Gobsmacked
by Google
I’ve just had a glance through my
new edition of SILICON CHIP and noticed that I am not the only one amazed
at Google Earth! Look at these grid
positions: 32d 10’N 110d 50’W and
you will see the B52 bomber junkyard.
Then check 32d 08’53.06”N 110d
49’58.44”W and you will see B52s that
have been cut up. Something to do
with a weapons of war disarmament
I am told.
Gary Ferguson,
Shepparton, Vic.
BPL promotion from
the masters of spin
Congratulations on your article
about Broadband over Power Lines
in the November 2005 issue. At last
someone outside the amateur radio
community has spelt out the problems
with this technology.
The proponents, who appear to be
masters of “spin”, have had it all to
themselves for too long. Have you
ever seen a press release from them
that didn’t mention 200Mb/s speeds?
How on earth they would achieve this
speed, except perhaps in a very controlled environment, eludes me and I
am sure it has more than a few network
designers scratching their heads.
The only way I could see that speed
being achieved is if they “squirt”
enough RF energy into the system to
make the actual wires redundant! And
to hell with everyone else trying to use
the radio spectrum.
The “large scale trial” in Tasmania is
also one that has been carefully chosen
as to avoid or minimise any adverse
effects. For a start, the wiring in that
estate is underground and the plans
they offer are so expensive that you
would have to be a millionaire if you
wanted to watch streaming video or
download the odd movie. So, they are
siliconchip.com.au
certainly trying to keep the usage down,
perhaps to avoid showing up the flaws
when the network gets busy.
The other “furphy” that gets bandied
about a lot is “universal availability”
and the press and politicians seem to
be buying it. After all, there are not
many places without power lines.
Why it would be cheaper to wire up
Birdsville with BPL than say ADSL or
wireless no-one explains.
Surely, if it is not economical to
enable a country telephone exchange
for ADSL, it can’t be so for BPL. They
siliconchip.com.au
seem to want to convey the impression
that they can enable universal internet
access no matter where, with the flick
of a switch! Power switch, that is.
I just feel sorry for the investors who
will pour money into this technology
based on the current hype, without
realising the many flaws that do exist.
Horst Leykam, VK2HL,
via email.
BPL is mains-borne
interference
Several years ago, I submitted an
electronic Electric Fence Monitor unit
in for a C-Tick compliance certificate
from the ACA and most of the testing
seemed to be about the level of electrical interference that may get into the
mains side.
It seems Broadband over the Power
Lines would go against all the principles of mains-borne interference suppression and the regulations – see:
http://www.acma.gov.au/ACMAINTER.65674:
STANDARD:361068585:pc=PC_2768#
Peter Robertson,
via email.
December 2005 7
Building the
ULTIMATE
In the days of iPods, MP3 players and all manner of fit-inyour-pocket, “music on the go” devices, why on earth would
anyone want to build a freestanding jukebox – which, by
definition, is almost a piece of furniture?
T
hat, Little Adam, is not just another story: it’s the
whole story! Apart from the “theft-ability” of small
music devices (and that is rife!), there are times when
they just don’t cut it. For instance, at a party where guests
want to choose which tracks they want to hear next.
Ummm . . . that sounds like a jukebox (in the old
style!).
The word “jukebox” certainly evokes different things
to different people, depending, to a large extent, on their
age. For those of us fortunate(?) enough to be around in
the swinging ’60s (and earlier), it conjures up images of a
mighty Wurlitzer; a large, almost art-deco device with lots
of chrome and flashing coloured lights, pushbuttons and
of course the coin slot to eat your money. In the middle, a
mechanical monstrosity selected 45RPM or even 78RPM
records (remember them?) from a revolving platter or stack,
according to the buttons pressed, placed them on the turntable then dropped (literally!) the pickup arm onto the surface
. . . and they played that track (for your two bob [two shillings, or 20c]).
You can still find jukeboxes of this type in old-style cafes and the like and in most cases, they still work after all
these years. Of course, 45 and 78RPM records have long
since gone the way of the Dodo but many now operate with
CDs in exactly the same way. Well, maybe not exactly but
close enough.
Speaking of CDs, that’s what most of today’s teens and
20-somethings have only ever known. Sure, they’ve seen
LP records in garage sales and bargain stores. Some might
Sorry to disappoint but this is NOT the jukebox we are
describing. This is one of those beautiful old Wurlitzers, in
this case an 1100 – as we say, all lights and chrome. This one
plays 78RPM recordings – you can clearly see the changing
mechanism and the stack of discs through the glass.
8 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
JUKEBOX
Part 1
Article by Ross Tester
Software by Tony Murphy
have even seen 45s and 78s. But very
few would have a turntable to play them on!
And their idea of a jukebox is a device which may or
may not have the flashing lights – but it still has a coin
slot (invariably these days costing you a couple of dollars!)
and (usually) pushbutton track selectors.
Many of these jukeboxes don’t have any mechanical
section showing – often because there isn’t one. If actual
CDs are used at all (and that is diminishing), they are part
of a CD stacker which may work much like the old style
record selectors – but you don’t normally see it.
The reason the use of CDs is diminishing brings us to
the project we are presenting here. When it was realised
that CDs could be stored on a hard disk drive, many people
started putting their entire CD collections into their PCs.
Particularly in more recent years as the cost of storage became cheaper and cheaper, it became a viable option. CDs
could be stored away for safekeeping – no more scratches
(or lost CDs!).
The next step in the evolution was to still save the CD
onto the hard disk but save it in MP3 format (yes, there
are many others but MP3 is far and away the most popular
and has become the de-facto “standard”).
While MP3 recordings are technically inferior to their
CD equivalents, the vast majority of people couldn’t tell
the difference, especially when belting out party music
with everyone shouting to be heard over the din!
Today, most commercial jukeboxes are little more than
siliconchip.com.au
a computer with a big hard disk
drive (on which is stored all the tracks), an amplifier
and speaker, plus a coin slot mechanism which still eats
your money. Some types have stuck with the “old fashioned” pushbutton track selection; more up-market models
have on-screen selection, sometimes with a touch screen
to do just about everything.
The jukeboxes you hire for a party are typically of these
types – usually, however, with no coin mechanism. You
just select your track and it plays.
Being computer based, you can program as many tracks
forward as the software will allow, or if you are a real
masochist you might get the one track to repeat over and
over . . .
Our jukebox
The last few paragraphs very nicely describe the SILICON
CHIP Ultimate Jukebox. It is, effectively, a conglomeration
of ideas. There is no rocket science about it – we just show
you which bits you need and how to put them together to
make sense – and sound great!
Let’s have a look at those “bits”.
The computer
Our original intention was to press an old Pentium
computer system into service. Like most people/organiDecember 2005 9
The IBM Thinkpad R40e is a perfectly
respectable “budget” notebook, even
if lacking a few of the latest niceties.
But it makes a perfect candidate for
use in our Ultimate Jukebox. Here
it is running the Ultimate Jukebox
software, albeit with not much in
the way of music yet loaded. All the
controls users need, even volume,
are accessible on screen.
IBM notebook pic
sations, we have to regularly update our PCs to be able
to use the latest software, leaving us several old (but still
working) PCs languising in cupboards. Monitors, too have
been updated.
There’s nothing wrong with using an old PC from an
operating point of view – or especially cost – but then a
couple of factors changed our mind.
First was weight – the jukebox housing (effectively a
speaker box with add-ons) was going to be quite heavy
anyway. We deliberately made it that way to handle the
rigours of party use.
When you add the weight of an old desktop PC and an
old CRT monitor to the weight of the jukebox/amplifier/
speaker/power supply/etc, it simply came in too high. We
wanted it to be heavy duty, not back-breaking heavy and
almost immovable.
Even substituting an LCD for the CRT monitor was not
a satisfactory answer (and that’s apart from the LCD cost).
Second was the price of second-hand notebooks. With
new, high-performing notebooks dropping all the time (see
the article in June 2005 SILICON CHIP), the second-hand
notebook market has also taken a dive. It’s not hard to pick
up a perfectly good Pentium II or III for $250, if not less.
It doesn’t have to have a large hard disk because we can
easily overcome that hurdle. Just as long as it has an inbuilt
sound card (just about all do) and a USB port or two available (most Pentiums do), it should be fine.
In fact, we could go even lower in the food chain and
10 Silicon Chip
say just about any Pentium-level (ie, including AMD, etc
equivalents) computer would be satisfactory. You don’t
need a high-performing machine to play music!
The amplifier
The amplifier needs to have enough “oomph” for the
purpose (it is a jukebox, after all). But how much is enough?
That depends a lot on the usage to which you want to
put your Ultimate Jukebox. If you’re looking to fill a large
hall with deafening sound levels, you’re probably looking
for at least a couple of hundred watts. Conversely, to use in
a small area, you might get away with ten or twenty watts.
Speaker sensitivity also makes a lot of difference here.
Naturally, higher power costs more, especially when it
comes to the amplifier power supply. High wattage means
high-voltage supplies; high-voltage supplies mean expensive high-voltage filter capacitors.
In the interests of economy, we went for a compromise
and chose an existing (and cheap!) SILICON CHIP amplifier
module, the SC480. This offers more than 100W music
power into 4W (and it’s music power we’re most interested
in for a jukebox). Just as importantly, it’s easy to build, easy
to get going, stable, reliable . . . all those things you need
in a jukebox. And its power supply, with ±40V rails, won’t
put more than a mild load on the bank.
Of course, if you MUST have more power, you could
substitute just about any other module providing it would
fit (or you modify the box to allow it to fit – and don’t forget
siliconchip.com.au
Using Copyrighted Music – and the Ultimate Jukebox
F
rom the outset, we want to
make one thing perfectly clear:
we do not condone piracy nor
the breaking of copyright – and that
includes the public performance/playing of copyrighted music.
Having said that, we are the first to
acknowledge that the copyright laws in
Australia, particularly when it comes to
music, leave a lot to be desired.
There are so many “blind eyes”
turned to what is certainly copyright
infringement that we’re surprised that
the music industry doesn’t have white
canes issued as standard equipment.
Copy your own CDs? Not in
Oz, you can’t!
We’re not lawyers – but from our interpretation of Australian copyright law,
notably the Copyright Act 1968 (Cth), if
you buy a CD and then copy some or
all of it to your (or anyone else’s) hard
drive, portable MP3 player, another CD,
or to anything else, you are breaking
the law – regardless of whether it is
done in digital or analog format.
We’ve heard people claim that
recording via a microphone in front
of a speaker gets around copyright. It
doesn’t: that’s like saying the person
sitting up the back of a movie theatre
with a camcorder, making a pirate
copy, isn’t breaking copyright!
It all comes under much the same
rules as downloading music from the
’net. You need the copyright owner’s
permission first.
Usually, prosecutions under the
Copyright Act are a civil action by the
aggrieved parties but if you copy for
gain or profit (especially reselling),
it becomes a criminal offence, liable
to a $60,500 fine/five years jail for an
individual or $302,500 fine for a corporation – for each infringement!
Copy 100 tracks and theoretically
you, personally, could be up for six
million in fines and 500 years in jail!
In some countries, notably the Land
of the Free, you can make copies for
your own use, whether to archive the
original and therefore protect it from
damage, or to make it more convenient
(eg, an IPod/MP3 player, etc).
Not so in Australia. Despite what governments often claim, our copyright law
languishes far, far behind technology
(one might say about 37 years behind!).
siliconchip.com.au
When the law was written (1968), CDs
were virtually unheard of. Digital audio
was unheard of. LPs ruled!
The Government tried to appease the
recording industry by introducing a levy
on cassette tapes, because everyone
knew that they were being used to copy
records – but the High Court ruled this
levy illegal! And that’s pretty much the
way it has stayed ever since.
Incidentally, copying CDs isn’t the
only illegality. With rare exceptions, you
cannot legally copy the music on an LP
record or cassette onto a CD.
“But everyone does it . . .”
A major difficulty arises because so
many people do it.
Let’s face it: SILICON CHIP has published several RIAA preamplifiers and
of course our famous “LP Doctor” which
could allow turntables to be used with
computers as well as amplifiers – the
LP Doctor fixing up much of the LP’s
scratches and noise into the bargain!
(Ref SILICON CHIP, Jan/Feb 2001).
And I must admit to being intimately
acquainted with someone who has
transferred some old (and now unavailable) favourite LP records onto CDs. I
and tens of thousands of people! If “just
about everyone” copies their own music
(regardless of the source) onto CDs or
other formats, it must be OK, right?
No it’s not, according to the letter of
the law. But unless you are doing it on a
large scale and even more particularly
if you are doing it as a business or for
profit/gain, the likelihood of you ever
being hauled up before a magistrate
is pretty remote. Not impossible, as it
is strictly speaking illegal, but remote.
Perhaps the most easy-to-understand
reference for all of this is the Australian
Copyright Council’s fact sheet, downloadable from www.copyright.org.
au/pdf/acc/InfoSheets/G070.pdf. But
don’t photocopy it – that’s a breach of
copyright! (Hey, they even warn you.)
Needless to say, this fact sheet
doesn’t make any mention of the preceding couple of paragraphs – they’re
mine, from a very much “off-the-record”
chat with someone in the industry “who
should know” (let’s just leave it at that!).
Public performance of
copyrighted music
Here’s where the muddy waters clear
somewhat. The vast majority of public
performances of copyrighted music
without permission of the copyright
owner certainly breach copyright. The
copyright people are much more likely
to prosecute for this than for personal
use – especially if it is commercial and/
or ongoing and/or large scale.
And it can be a criminal, not a civil,
prosectution.
So, for example, if you wanted to
build the SILICON CHIP Jukebox and use
it for dance parties, function centres,
discos, pubs/clubs, etc, you might be
on thin ice. (Ref APRA Ltd v Metro on
George Pty Ltd [2004] FCA 1123 (31
August 2004).
Even if only doing it for a hobby (ie,
not for gain or profit, as the case above
clearly was for), the very fact that it is
in a public place could get you into hot
water, especially if on-going
I once heard of a situation where
privately-owned records were being
used for dance music at a wedding
in a public hall. One of the guests just
happened to be a copyright inspector.
He didn’t try to shut it down but he
made sure the roped-in relative who
was playing amateur DJ, using just
his own turntable and stereo amplifier,
knew he was breaking the law. Petty?
Yes. Sort-of like a parking cop booking
his mother’s car for a minute over. . .
Get a licence!
There is a way around it: you can buy
various forms of licences from a variety
of organisations (depending on the music’s source and/or the usage).
Licences for various purposes are
available and they vary in price – some
are not cheap!
The same licence rules apply to
the commercial juke boxes which you
might have seen for hire or even to
buy. Again, they’re not cheap – and it
tends to be the licence fees which adds
significantly to the price tag!
For more information, there’s a good
reference to the organisations who issue licences on behalf of publishers,
artists, etc, at www.caslon.com.au/
colsocietiesprofile2.htm
Finally, neither SILICON CHIP nor
Ultimate Jukebox/Tony Murphy can
become involved in any correspondence regarding copyright or licencing.
Take it up with the experts!
December 2005 11
Here’s the trackball we picked up on eBay for less than $10
– if you’re patient, you’re sure to find similar items being
offered from time to time (we only waited about two weeks
before this came up). The alternative would be to use an
optical mouse – they’re very cheap these days and don’t
clog up like the old ball meeces did!
the supply and transformer) and you didn’t overdrive the
speakers. That’s unlikely, with the ones we’ve chosen!
If you have a spare high-power amplifier module and
power supply lying around, go for it!
The speakers
We asked Altronic Distributors to help us out here, telling
them what we wanted to do and asking them for their ideal
choice. In the interests of performance, they recommended
one of their C-3212 300mm woofers, a C-6110 compression
tweeter driver and a C6130 horn, along with a C-4007 2-way
crossover.
This is not a cheap combination. The woofer is a beauty,
with 44Hz to 5.5kHz response and 97dB sensitivity (around
3-5dB more sensitive than most typical 300mm speakers –
which means you need less power to drive it).
But it sells for $179 on its own, so the speaker drivers and
crossover will set you back nearly $280 – and that’s before
you start building the enclosure or add the amplifier and
computer. This woofer is also rated significantly higher that
our amplifier dictates, at 400W (max), so if on cost grounds
you had to, you could substitute a less rugged, lower performing speaker with commensurate savings.
The software
Software can make or break a jukebox. If you Google
“jukebox software” you will get about 190,000 hits (yeah,
we tried it). There is some very good jukebox software out
there and of course there is some that is, well. . .
It was while I was Googling my way through the various
offerings that I came across one called “Ultimate Jukebox”.
(http://ultimatejukebox.murphnet.net). At first glance, it
looked pretty good – and more importantly, it wasn’t very
expensive (in fact, the trial version is free). The more I
looked into it, the better it looked – it had some really attractive features which exactly suited the type of jukebox
that I had in mind.
Prices quoted were in $US so I assumed it, like most of
the other software, was out of the USA. So you can imagine
my surprise when I found that it wasn’t a Yanqui product
at all: it was in fact written right here in Oz (Brisbane, to
be precise).
12 Silicon Chip
I emailed the author, Tony Murphy, and told him about
this project idea that I had, using his software (why reinvent
wheels?) and a computer system and amplifer, put together
in a freestanding jukebox unit.
Tony was very enthusiastic about the idea and even if it
has taken many months to come to fruition, the marriage
of his software and the various bits and pieces we’ve assembled together makes for one fine jukebox, even if I do
say so myself.
He’s obviously put a lot of thought into Ultimate Jukebox
because it does just about everything you could want a
jukebox to do, and makes it easy.
I particularly liked features such as the “full screen” mode
which not only turns the whole PC screen into the jukebox,
it also removes any Windows-type imagery and can also give
password protection, keyboard lockout and much more.That
stops fiddlers from fiddling!
We’ll have a much more detailed look at Ultimate Jukebox shortly because it really is the heart and soul of the
system.
I mentioned earlier a free “trial” version of Ultimate
Jukebox which you can download yourself and play with
to your heart’s content – well, for 30 days, anyway. (http://
ultimatejukebox.murphnet.net/download.htm). It has a 300
file maximum but that’s plenty of time/tracks to convince
you just how good this is!
Don’t want to build a jukebox?
Not everyone wants – or needs – a jukebox. But we hope
that the information we’re giving here might whet the appetites of anyone with a large music collection who wishes
to organise it!
You can of course use the Ultimate Jukebox software with
your PC, sound card and amplifier/speakers, along with your
own CDs or MP3s (just make sure you have plenty of room
on your hard disk or get an external one).
It’s also ideal for home theatre systems, so if you’ve been
looking for the right software, you could do a lot worse – and
pay a whole lot more!
The price to register and unlock the software is just
$US14.95 (about $AU20 at press time) for home/noncommercial use or $US49.95 for commercial users. Note that
this doesn’t give you any rights to use copyrighted music –
it gives you the right to use the Ultimate Jukebox software.
What you do then is up to you. We’ve covered this thorny
subject in a separate panel – Using Copyright Music.
Controlling it
We agonised over this for a long time. In the end, our
decision was made to a large extent by the software’s capabilities.
One thing you do not want in a “real” jukebox, for at
least two reasons, is a keyboard and/or mouse. The most
obvious reason is that when there is a keyboard, someone
who “knows all about computers” will want to play with it
to prove what a genius they are. In the process, you could
lose the setup, maybe the music collection, perhaps even
the entire hard disk contents.
Stretching a bow a bit far? We’re speaking from experience! You might be surprised how some people with a
little knowledge become dangerous things, still with little
knowledge, when they’ve had a few drinks too many.
The second reason is those few drinks too many. No matter
siliconchip.com.au
how careful you are, no matter how much you protect your
keyboard, eventually someone is going to “oops, sorry” and
fill your keyboard full of Carlton and United’s best. Or perhaps worse, Coke, even diluted with Scotch or Bourborn;it
just loves copper tracks on PC boards.
The best way to avoid this is to not have a keyboard – at
least, not an accessible one. With a notebook computer,
the “works” can be buried within the jukebox with just the
screen emerging.
That’s the path we have taken with our Ultimate Jukebox.
It’s not perfect but it will avoid most spills, especially with
a couple of seals and drip paths.
So how do you set it up, enter passwords, etc if it doesn’t
have a keyboard, or at least an accessible one?
One of two ways: one, you can plug in an external keyboard to 99.99% of notebooks. If it doesn’t have a mini-DIN
keyboard socket, you can use a USB keyboard. To achieve
this, you can easily connect a keyboard extension cable to
the notebook and bring it out to an “oosoom” socket, say,
on the back of the jukebox. What’s an “oosoom” socket? Out
of sight, out of mind...
The second way is even more secure. Once you know
how, the Ultimate Jukebox software will place a “glass”
keyboard on the screen. You select the letters you want via
a mouse and bingo – you’ve typed in what you want. Most
of the time this keyboard is hidden – you only bring it up
when you need it (if you know how!).
What mouse?
Didn’t we say a moment ago that we didn’t want a mouse
either? We did say that – but you do need something to
control the system, for users to make their track selections,
and so on. A modern mouse, especially one of the optical
variety, is fairly immune from those “oopses”. But it’s not
ideal because anything on a cord is likely to be damaged, if
only through over-zealous handling.
We went one better and installed a trackball. Basically, a
trackball is like an upside-down mouse – you roll the ball
instead of rolling the mouse. While (at least in our case) it
is larger than a mouse, the advantage is that it takes up less
overall space when being used. The one we used is not impervious to spills but it is reasonable, nevertheless. You can
buy trackballs which are completely unaffected by a dunking
but they are rather expensive ($150 and more).
Where do you get a trackball? They pop up quite regularly
on our old friend eBay – in fact, that’s where we got ours from,
for the princely sum of eight dollars. While it was described
as “NIB” (new in box), it wasn’t exactly new – in fact, it was
a never-been-used 1996 Radio Shack serial model. But with
a beaut 40mm ball, it made control real smooth!
The major stumbling block was that it was serial and
many modern notebooks, mine included, don’t have serial
ports. That problem was solved with a USB to serial adaptor – around $15.00 on eBay (inc postage). If you can’t find
one, try the alternative spelling – adapter.
You might simply wish to use an optical mouse. They
are very cheap and easily replaced (and obviously won’t
need any adaptor).
If I had my druthers . . .
In an ideal world, I wouldn’t use a trackball or a mouse.
I’d use a touchscreen – and the Ultimate Jukebox software
is designed to handle one of those, if you have one.
siliconchip.com.au
If your computer’s hard disk is a little small, or even if
you would rather keep all your music on a separate drive,
here’s an elegant solution: a USB hard drive. Inside the
case is a 20GB drive but it could be much larger. 20GB
is enough for the best part of thirty CDs in native format;
many more if you MP3 them. You can often find drives like
this for around $1-$2 per GB (sometimes even less) on eBay.
Note, though, our comments on recording your own CDs
onto your own hard drive. Everyone does it, but . . .
I’ve often seen them selling for $250-$350 or so but that
was just a little too rich for my tastes. There are even now
several notebook computers with touchscreens which would
really be the (expensive) icing on the cake! It’s up to you.
OK, so where are we?
We have the notebook computer, complete with screen.
We have a trackball (or mouse) to control it. We already
have (at least the trial version of) Ultimate Jukebox software
loaded and operating.
We’ve decided to use a relatively low-power amplifier;
we have the speakers ready to go in the box.
Aaaah, the box!
It’s not good enough to simply take a guess and throw
together a speaker enclosure. Every speaker (or speaker set)
is designed to operate within certain parameters. Not the
least of those is the size and type of enclosure.
Fortunately, we knew all the required specifications of
the woofer (which is the more important component when
it comes to enclosure design) and fed them into a program
called “Bass Box”. It calculates the volume and port size
required – all we need do is make up an aesthetically pleasing enclosure using the figures provided.
But this is a jukebox – there’s a bit more to it than just
an enclosure. We also needed to make allowances for the
amplifier and power supply at the bottom, and a method of
mounting the notebook computer at the top.
The SILICON CHIP Ultimate Jukebox is the result. One thing
we didn’t want to end up with was a speaker box with bits
tacked on – it needed to look as if it was all designed as one
piece. We think we’ve achieved just that – but of course,
there is more than one way to skin a cat.
Next month, we’ll show you our design, describe how to
build it and then put together the complete system. Before
then, you might like to start looking at your options – the
amplifer, speakers, PC and so on.
December 2005 13
What’s so good about
ULTIMATE Jukebox?
U
nlike many of the jukebox offerings around (and
there are MANY!), Ultimate Jukebox not only offers
an amazing range of features, it’s easy to use, it suits
our purposes perfectly . . . and it’s cheap!
As we mentioned in the main article, you can download
a trial version (30-day limit) of Ultimate Jukebox from
http://ultimatejukebox.murphnet.net/download.htm – so
you can see for yourself that it’s all we say it is without
costing you a cent! (Oh, OK purists, we know you have to
pay for your downloads one way or another. . .)
Ultimate Jukebox can handle MP3, OGG, WMA, M4A
and WAV formats but best of all, automatically recognises
them – all you have to do is load a CD or even multiple
CDs if you have multiple drives and Ultimate Jukebox
will seamlessly merge the contents with the other music
files you have already loaded (this feature requires the
registered version).
The free version is limited to 300 files but the registered
version can handle tens of thousands of files – at least 2000
This is similar to the screen at left but it’s in maximised
mode – note how some of the top-of-screen Windows-type
control information has gone – perfect for parties!
Winamp is also available as a free download from the
net (www.nullsoft.com). It has a “pro” version (ie, pay for!)
but you don’t need that to run Ultimate Jukebox – the free
version is just fine. The latest version is V5.11.
One of the things that is most attractive for our purpose
is Ultimate Jukebox’s “Party Mode” – not only does this
hide the keyboard, it gives you total control over what
users have access to – including the tracks. If you happen
to be into Rodney Rude or Kevin Bloody Wilson and you
know maiden aunt Matilda might be offended, you can
make them disappear while she’s there!
It also has a full screen mode, taking over the entire monitor. One advantage of this is large type so your eyes aren’t
strained. Of course, if you want to, you can run Ultimate
Jukebox in a smaller window.
As you can see from this screen grab, Ultimate Jukebox
gives you an immense amount of information on screen
and is extremely flexible in its manipulation.
full CDs worth – so you aren’t likely to run out of music
in this decade (century?). And adding more is, as we said,
extremely simple.
It will read the TAG information from your media files
to give the most accurate display information. But if you
haven’t tagged your files, it can be configured to read title,
artist, album, track number and genre from filenames. You
can also display album covers if you have the graphics.
Ultimate Jukebox uses Winamp (V2.8+ or V5.x [but not
V3]) for playback. This means that you get full access to
Winamp’s plugin system for input, output and DSP plugins
and use your Winamp visuals too. This also means that if
you can run Winamp on your system, then you can run
Ultimate Jukebox. Your old Pentium 1 should do just nicely!
14 Silicon Chip
Ultimate Jukebox makes it easy to scan any or all of the
drives (of whatever type) and directories in your system.
You have the choice of keeping what it finds or not.
siliconchip.com.au
Ultimate Jukebox in Ultimate Stacker mode: it becomes a
virtual CD stacker with enough music to last forever. It’s
also great for home theatre systems, not just for jukeboxes!
Want to customise Ultimate Jukebox’s appearance? You get
full control over colours, fonts and skins.
Ultimate Jukebox Overview
This overview is just that: an overview. But it will give
some idea of the flexibility and power of this program.
The main window lists
There are three lists in the main window: the Jukebox
List, the Track List and the Queue Display List. The
Jukebox List presents a list of all the Tracks, Artists, Albums, Compilation Albums and Genres that are found in
the TAG information of your files. Once you click on an
artist, a list of their songs will be displayed in the Track
List. You can now highlight the track(s) that you want
to hear and add them to the queue.
Ultimate Jukebox keeps several internal play lists to
give you maximum flexibility for song selection:
1.
The Ultimate Stacker:
The stacker was designed to be a simple implementation of a CD stacker. You can add Albums & Playlists into
it easily so that you can hear the music you want to hear.
This makes it easy to listen to your latest music. You can
even remove tracks from these virtual CDs if you don’t
want to hear all of them.
4.
Playlist Collection:
The Jukebox and Track Lists:
This is the list of all songs that Ultimate Jukebox finds in
your Scan Folders and on your CD drives. It is displayed
in a treeview for intuitive use, making it much easier to
locate your favorite tunes than searching through a list
of thousands of files!
2.
3.
The Queue:
Songs in the Queue are played before any other songs
and are only played from other lists if the Queue is
empty.
siliconchip.com.au
Ultimate Jukebox can have multiples playlists preloaded and set active at any time.
As an example, Ultimate Jukebox might be used at a
wedding. It can play songs at random during the reception
then set your pre-loaded bridal waltz and dance list to
active. You can then set a “Time to Leave” list to activate
while the bride & groom are saying their goodbyes and
once they’re gone, set the dance list back to active (it can
be configured to start where it left off).
That’s just one example – there are plenty more.
SC
December 2005 15
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
dicksmith.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
dicksmith.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
dicksmith.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
dicksmith.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
dicksmith.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
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CAR SOUND
ON THE CHEAP
Pt.2: By JULIAN EDGAR
In Pt.1, we showed you how to buy a quality AM/FM/CD head
unit plus some wide-range speakers that can be mounted in the
doors or rear parcel shelf. This month, we look at buying an
amplifier and subwoofer and describe the wiring options.
I
F YOU’RE RUNNING a subwoofer,
you’ll need an amplifier. That’s
because subwoofers require plenty of
amplifier power – certainly more than
a standard head unit can provide. A
budget subwoofer amplifier should
meet these criteria:
(1) The amplifier should have a
bridging facility – ie, an option to allow the outputs of both stereo channels
to be summed (or bridged) to provide
more power into a single channel.
Most amplifiers are two-channel (ie,
stereo) but a subwoofer amplifier
need only be mono – bridging a stereo
amplifier makes use of both channels
to give a higher-power mono output
(theoretically four times the power
output of a single channel).
Not all car stereo amplifiers are
designed for bridging, so you need to
find an amplifier that’s capable of this
function. This is usually indicated by
labelling adjacent to the speaker terminals, which indicates that the output of
two channels can be used to drive one
speaker (see photo). Don’t attempt to
bridge the output of an amplifier that’s
not designed for bridging, as this will
destroy the output stages.
This amplifier allows its outputs to be bridged (for much higher power into a single channel) and runs a 20A
fuse (which is indicative of decent audio output capability). It’s important that you look for these features
when selecting a secondhand amplifier.
22 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
This amplifier is grubby and
still has some of its old wiring
attached. However, with 4 x 20W
RMS outputs and both line level
and speaker level inputs, it’s ideal
for running four wide-range (or
woofer/tweeter combinations) if
the head-unit’s amplifiers aren’t
up to the job.
(2) The amplifier should preferably
feature an in-built crossover. You don’t
want to feed high frequencies to a
subwoofer and if the amplifier has an
inbuilt low-pass filter, this saves you
the extra cost of buying other bits. In
addition, it’s preferable that the filter
crossover frequency be adjustable,
so that you can choose the optimum
point at which the subwoofer begins
to do its stuff.
(3) A variable gain control is important as it allows you to adjust the
loudness of the subwoofer relative to
the rest of the system.
(4) If the amplifier has the ability
to sum the left and right signal inputs
(ie, L + R), you’ll be able to easily develop a dual-channel bass output. If
the two channels of the amplifier can
be bridged, this summing will occur
automatically.
(5) Another control that’s useful
is an amplifier bass-boost switch.
Because this boost occurs only in the
signal that’s fed to the subwoofer, the
rest of the sound remains unaffected.
This prevents the wide-range speakers
from being overloaded, as would occur if you simply cranked up the bass
control on the head unit.
These criteria might look pretty
extensive but there are plenty of
secondhand amplifiers that meet all
of them – and plenty that don’t! So
siliconchip.com.au
check carefully before plonking down
your cash.
Meaningless figures
Don’t be sucked in by dubious pow
er figures. Car sound amplifiers are
notorious for having misinformation
printed on them in large letters – things
like “330 watts total power”.
Quite often these figures are meaningless – even if they’re correct. For
example, the power output quoted
may be the Peak Music Power (rather
than the RMS power) and the distortion at the advertised power output
might make the music almost unrecognisable. It’s also possible that the
claimed output could not be sustained
for longer than a few seconds before
the amplifier started overheating.
Car sound amplifiers that have high
outputs generate a lot of heat in what’s
Table 1: Sample System Costs
Equipment
Origin
Cost
Philips RC604 CD AM/FM
head unit
Original Equipment $100
– Peugeot?
Cash Converters, Runaway
Bay, Queensland
US Audio 552X amplifier
Aftermarket
Cash Converters, Runaway
Bay, Queensland
Mitsubishi 5-inch single
cone speakers
Original equipment $2 pair
Shop at municipal tip, Coolangatta, Queensland
5-inch single cone speakers
with 2-inch cone tweeters,
including crossover capacitors
Stereo TV
Shop at municipal tip, Coolangatta, Queensland
Dome tweeters, including
crossover capacitors
Original Equipment $10
pair
Jaycar Electronics, Gold
Coast, Queensland
Toyota Soarer 10-inch
subwoofer
Original Equipment $40
Toyota wreck, Thomastown,
Victoria
$100
$2 pair
Source
Here’s the breakdown in the costs of the system that we assembled for this story.
Each of the parts was bought for the prices shown at the outlets shown. As you
can see, the cost of the parts is only $254, well below our $300 limit. Throw in
some wire, perhaps some grilles if required, and you’ll still be under budget
December 2005 23
should reflect the advertised power. An
amplifier capable of developing high
output power will normally have two
25A fuses – an amplifier with a 10A
fuse simply won’t be able to develop
the audio power you need.
As with head units and speakers,
always look for well-known, highquality brand names when purchasing
an amplifier.
Subwoofers
This factory Toyota Soarer subwoofer is perfect for budget applications – it’s
efficient, designed to run in a free-air configuration and cost just $40 from a
wrecking yard. However, it has a 2-ohm impedance, which means that the
amplifier used with it must be capable of driving 2-ohm loads.
really a very small package. As a result, they need extensive heatsinking.
All current amplifiers use a cast-alloy
extrusion as the main body of the amplifier and this becomes the heatsink.
Physically heavy amplifiers with
multiple fins and perhaps fan cooling
generally indicate a rugged, reliable
design in which overheating is unlike-
ly to be a problem. As with speakers, a
heavy amplifier is likely to be a better
design than a light amplifier.
High-power amplifiers draw a lot
of current. The positive and negative
supply terminals should be suitablysized to take this into account and
heavy-duty screw-down terminals are
often used. In addition, the fuse rating
Designing a high-quality subwoofer
is an involved process. Two car subwoofer designs have been described
in SILICON CHIP, both of which work
very well and are far below the cost of
many commercial equivalents. They
were the Little Dynamite Subwoofer
in March 2003 and the Big Blaster
Subwoofer in May 2003. However,
despite the effectiveness of those two
designs, in the context of our budget
system, they’re way too expensive (and
in any case, the specified subwoofer is
no longer available).
These designs both used drivers
with extensive specifications that were
computer modelled over many hours
in a variety of enclosures. However,
if you’ve sourced a no-name (or even
branded) woofer without specifications (resonant frequencies, Qts and
all that stuff), how are you going to go
about designing an enclosure?
The answer is that you don’t. Instead, you simply place the woofer in
the largest sealed box that you can. In
a sedan, you use the whole boot (ie,
the woofer is mounted behind the rear
seat or in the rear deck), while in a
When selecting a subwoofer amplifier, pay particular attention to the features. Here you can see that this unit
has (from left) adjustable gain, line level (RCA) inputs, an adjustable low-pass filter and a bass-boost switch.
24 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Only One Amplifier?
It usually doesn’t make a lot of
economic sense to run an extra
amplifier just for four full-range
speakers. As indicated last month,
head units with good-quality inbuilt amplifiers are available very
cheaply and if you pick efficient
speakers, plenty of distortion-free
high-level audio can be developed,
without the need for an external
amplifier.
Consider also that a 4-channel
amplifier with specifications that
are better than the head unit’s inbuilt amplifiers may well cost twice
as much as the head unit itself. Our
recommendation is that you drive
the wide-range speakers directly
from the head-unit and spend the
extra money on the subwoofer
amplifier.
hatchback, you make the largest box
you’re happy to have occupying the
luggage space. That way, the volume
of air trapped behind the cone (adding
to its springiness and so increasing
its resonant frequency) is as large as
possible and you don’t need to worry
about tuning the response of a port.
All quality original-equipment
sound systems in sedans use a “freeair” subwoofer design – although, they
use a driver that’s specifically designed
for the application. It therefore makes
sense to get hold of an original-equipment free-air subwoofer if you can.
Japanese-importing wreckers often
carry the 10-inch and 8-inch subwoofers from the Toyota Soarer and Lexus
LS400 respectively. These subwoofer
are usually quite cheap to buy – $40
being a common price.
However, be careful as these drivers
are 2-ohm impedance. Some car sound
amplifiers will happily drive these
very low impedance speakers but others will blow their output transistors.
Almost certainly, you will not be able
to run an amplifier in bridged mode
into such a low speaker impedance.
However, you can probably use just
one of the two channels to gain an
effective outcome (provided that channel can handle a 2-ohm load).
Note that a 2-channel amplifier
rated for 4-ohm speakers actually sees
a 2-ohm load when operating in
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: the simplest system is one where just two front speakers are
used – one for the right channel and one for the left.
Fig.2: using front “splits”, where separate woofers and tweeters are
used for each channel, will provide a substantial improvement in
sound quality – especially if the tweeters are mounted high in the
doors.
Fig.3: a 4-speaker system adds rear speakers. If you pick speakers
with high efficiencies, you will be able to run all four straight from
the head unit’s amplifier stages.
bridged mode and driving a 4-ohm
speaker. Therefore, each channel must
be individually capable of driving
2-ohm loads. Operating an amplifier
in bridged mode into a 2-ohm loudspeaker is out of the question, since
each channel would see an impedance
of just one ohm.
If you can’t get hold of an originalequipment subwoofer, buy aftermarket. As with full-range speakers,
look for a heavy magnet, long-throw
suspension and good brand name. If
there’s a choice of several drivers, go
for the one with the highest sensitivity
(ie, the highest dB<at>1W/1m rating) – all
else being equal, of course. Pretty well
any subwoofer that satisfies the above
criteria will have plenty of power
handling capability.
Getting it going
So you have the components – now
what? A lot will depend on exactly
what components you’ve bought, so
we can only cover the installation and
December 2005 25
Do You Need
Really Thick Cables?
Very thick hook-up wire and
cables are beloved by car audio
enthusiasts. However, look in
a $200,000 car with a fantastic
sounding system and you’ll be
surprised to find barely any thick
wires in sight!
Normal heavy-duty figure-8
cable is fine for nearly everything
– but perhaps doubled up in the
case of the amplifier power leads.
This amplifier was bought secondhand for $100. It has “330 watts total
power” written on it but that’s not continuous RMS power. Decent sound
pressure levels will be available without resorting to a really high-power
(and expensive) amplifier if you choose an efficient subwoofer.
set-up details in general terms.
As explained in the “Only One
Amplifier” panel, we suggest that you
drive the full-range speakers directly
from the head unit. In fact, the simplest
arrangement is to use the two front
amplifier outputs of the head unit
to drive the left and right full-range
speakers – see Fig.1.
A somewhat more sophisticated
arrangement is to drive front “splits”
– ie, two woofer/tweeter combinations
(Fig.2). If you’ve salvaged matched
woofer/tweeter pairs from a TV set
(or some other source) or you are
using commercially bought “splits”,
the crossover capacitors will already
be present. However, if there isn’t a
crossover capacitor, you’ll need to
26 Silicon Chip
install one to prevent bass frequencies
from being fed to the tweeter. Typically, a 3.3mF or 4.7mF non-polarised
capacitor can be used and these are
available for about $1.20 each from
electronics stores.
Be careful to keep the phasing of the
tweeters and woofers correct – ie, the
positive terminal of each woofer goes
to the positive terminal of its matching
tweeter via the crossover capacitor.
The next step up the ladder is to add
rear speakers. Wide-range speakers are
commonly used for rear-deck mounting (see Fig.3), while “splits” are again
often used for rear-door mounting.
Adding a subwoofer
To add a subwoofer, you’ll need to
interface its amplifier with the existing
system. Just how that is done will depend on whether the head unit boasts
line level (RCA) outputs in addition to
its amplifier outputs.
If the head unit has RCA outputs,
these can be connected directly to the
line inputs of the subwoofer amplifier
– see Fig.4. The single subwoofer can
then be driven by bridging the two
output channels of its amplifier. This
will result in a subwoofer output that
includes the bass component of both
channels.
Both the crossover frequency and
the output level of the subwoofer can
be set by adjusting the appropriate
controls on the amplifier.
But what if you don’t have line-level
outputs on the head unit? In that case,
you’ll need to use a speaker-level to
line-level converter box. These cost
about $25.
As shown in Fig.5, the converter box
is wired in parallel with a pair of left
and right speakers (either at the back
or the front, depending on access) and
provides line level outputs to the amplifier. The rest of the system is then
the same as before.
Setting up
There are plenty of car sound systems around that sound awful, not
because of the basic components used
but because of the way the system has
been adjusted. In most systems, you’ll
have these adjustable settings: left/
right balance; front/rear fade; bass and
treble; loudness; subwoofer level; and
subwoofer crossover point.
The key to getting them optimised
is to adjust them one at a time, in the
right sequence. Follow these steps:
(1.) Select a well-recorded CD that
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Fig.4: if the head unit has line level (RCA) outputs, it can be plugged
straight into the subwoofer amplifier. If the amplifier’s two channels
are bridged to drive the subwoofer, the subwoofer will reproduce
the bass from both channels.
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Fig.5: if the head-unit doesn’t have line level outputs, a speaker
level to line level adaptor will have to be used. This takes the
signals from the left and right speaker outputs of the head-unit,
attenuates the signals and then drives the subwoofer amplifier.
H SILICON CHIP logo printed in
gold-coloured lettering on spine
& cover
H Buy five and get them postage
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Price: $A12.95 plus $A7.00 p&p per
order. Available only in Australia.
contains a variety of music styles,
preferably including tracks with strong
bass components, treble components
and acoustic components. If you can
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get one, the test CDs used by professional installers are excellent.
(2.) Turn the subwoofer off (eg, by
turning down its output on the ampli-
Just fill in the handy order form
in this issue; or fax (02) 9979
6503; or ring (02) 9979 5644 &
quote your credit card number.
December 2005 27
Getting The Correct Speaker Phasing
For best results, the speakers
should be connected so that they all
“move” in the same direction simultaneously – rather than some “pushing”
in one direction and some “pulling” in
the other direction at any one instant.
If all speakers move forwards and
backwards together (ie, at the same
time), they are said to be “in phase”
and this give much better bass and
imaging.
It’s easy to use a 1.5V battery to
check phasing. Let’s say, for example,
that you are connecting a new head
unit to some existing speakers and
you’re unsure of their phasing.
All you have to do is connect the
1.5V battery across each set of speaker terminals in turn (before connecting
them to the head-unit). When the positive lead of the battery is connected
to the positive terminal of a speaker,
the speaker cone will move forward.
fier), turn off the Loudness and set the
Bass and Treble controls to their “flat”
positions.
(3.) Set the Balance and Fader controls to their central positions.
(4.) Listen to some music and adjust
the Fader control until the music appears to be coming slightly more from
the front than from the back (this takes
into account the differing efficiencies
of the front and rear speakers). That
done, adjust the Bass and Treble controls and decide whether the Loudness
button improves or degrades things.
Make sure that the speakers are not
overloaded, even with the volume up
Conversely, if you connect the positive
lead to the speaker’s negative terminal,
the cone will move backwards. If the
speaker is hidden, a sheet of paper
over the grille will usually indicate the
direction of cone movement.
You can also generally figure out the
phasing using a simple listening test.
First, set the fader so that you can
hear only the front speakers, listen
closely, then swap the wiring polarity
at one speaker and listen again. You
will get a much better bass response
when the speakers are in phase.
Wire the speakers for maximum
bass response then do the rear speakers. That done, check that the front/rear
phasing is correct.
The trick is to check that the bass
doesn’t suddenly improve when you
move the fader or balance controls
to their extremes – ie, listening to
either a single pair or even a single
(you may need to reduce the bass setting to achieve this).
(5.) Set the crossover point of the
subwoofer amplifier to about 100Hz
and turn up the amplifier’s output.
Think about what the subwoofer is
there for – to fill the low frequency
“hole” in the music that’s caused by
the inability of the other speakers to reproduce those low frequencies. Listen
to the music and make a judgement as
to whether the bass is all one note, or
has a range of deep frequencies. If you
can hear only one-note bass, turn the
crossover control to a lower frequency.
This will immediately reduce the ap-
Overloading Your Wide-Range Speakers?
If you find that you can easily overload the wide-range speakers when
you turn up the volume, the first step is
to reduce the bass output of the head
unit and let the subwoofer do more
of the low-frequency work. However,
in some systems, this can result in a
“hole” in the lower midrange.
In this case, you might want to install crossover capacitors to stop the
very low frequencies from reaching
the wide-range speakers. In a 4-ohm
28 Silicon Chip
A 1.5V battery
makes it easy to
check speaker
phasing.
speaker should not improve the bass
response.
Note that whatever the ‘battery test’
tells you, always configure the phasing
so that it sounds best. Some funny
phasing effects can occur in cars and
your ears are the best judge.
Speaker phasing can make an immense difference to how the system
sounds. Don’t overlook it when setting
up a car audio system.
parent amount of bass but the test is
whether or not the bass sounds better
than before.
When you think you have the level
and crossover settings optimised, listen to some speech – eg, on the radio.
If the voices are artificially deep, you
might need to make some more adjustments. (Note that with some head
units, you can adjust the bass and
treble separately for different sources.
In this case, you might turn down the
bass control on the head unit for the
AM/FM radio output).
Above all, remember that a welladjusted subwoofer isn’t at all obvious
in its action! Instead, the music simply
has more depth and energy – you don’t
want “boom, boom, boom” (unless you
are a complete idiot)!
Conclusion
system, a non-polarised 400mF capacitor will roll-off bass frequencies
below about 100Hz.
No doubt, they’ll be some who’ll
pour scorn on many of the points that
have been made in this series. Speakers out of TVs? Using speaker level to
line level converters? Only one amplifier? What’s this guy on?
However, provided you follow the
basic rules, you will end up with a
really good in-car sound – certainly
far better than its modest cost would
SC
suggest.
siliconchip.com.au
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Class 1 - Long Range
Class 2 - Short Range
PROMI-SD
Bluetooth Serial Adaptors
Optional accessories, dipole &
patch antennas, cables
RF MODULES AUSTRALIA
PO Box 1957, Launceston Tas 7250
Phone (03) 6331-6789 Fax (03) 6331-1243
www.rfmodules.com.au email: sales<at>rfmodules.com.au
Universal High-Energy
Electronic Ignition Sys
This new universal high-energy electronic
ignition system completely supersedes
our previous transistor-ignition designs. It
works with a variety of input triggers and
employs a high-temperature microcontroller
to control the switching transistor and sense
the trigger signal.
T
HIS NEW ELECTRONIC ignition
system will not only will work
with traditional points but will also
happily function with any type of trigger signal – including those provided
by factory and after-market reluctor,
optical and Hall Effect distributors.
It will even interface with an ECU
ignition output trigger, making it a
universal fit for all single coil cars,
motorcycles and go-karts. It’s the ideal
upgrade for an old points ignition
30 Silicon Chip
system or it can be used to replace a
defective factory ignition module – for
as little as one-fifth of the price.
This all-new design also compensates for lower battery voltages during
cranking, features reduced coil heating, has adjustable intelligent dwell
and incorporates a theft-prevention
ignition disable.
Ignition system designs
Charles F. Kettering was an inven-
tor extraordinaire. Not only did he
develop the electric starter motor but
in about 1910 he invented the first
really effective automotive ignition
system. The standard Kettering ignition circuit is shown in Fig.1. As this
diagram shows, a battery is connected
to a primary winding of the ignition
coil, with the current interrupted by
the distributor points. The distributor points are opened and closed by
a cam on the shaft of the distributor.
The lobes of the cam are arranged so
that the points open at the start of each
cylinder’s firing stroke.
When the distributor points are
closed, current builds up in the primary of the ignition coil and produces
a magnetic flux in the iron core. The
time that the points are closed is called
the “dwell period”, while the magnetic
flux is the energy stored in the coil.
When the points open, the coil current is suddenly stopped and the magsiliconchip.com.au
Pt.1: By JOHN CLARKE
stem
netic field collapses. This produces a
sharp voltage spike across the coil’s
primary winding. Since the ignition
coil is also a transformer, this large
voltage spike is stepped up to appear
across the secondary winding. The
secondary’s voltage is fed to the spark
plugs via the rotating contact in the
distributor and the spark plug leads.
The capacitor (sometimes known in
automotive circles as a condenser) in
parallel with the points reduces arcing
across the opening points. It achieves
this because at the moment of the
points opening, the capacitor appears
as a short circuit. There is therefore
a lack of voltage across the opening
points, preventing arcing.
The capacitor also forms a parallel
resonant circuit with the coil primary,
maximising the energy developed in
the primary. Without the capacitor in
a points ignition system, the spark will
be very weak.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: a Kettering ignition system is a very simple design. A battery is
connected to a primary winding of the ignition coil, with the current
interrupted by the distributor points. When the distributor points are
closed, current builds up in the primary of the ignition coil and produces a
magnetic flux in the iron core. When the points open, the coil current is cut
off and the magnetic field collapses. This produces a sharp voltage spike
across the coil’s primary winding which is stepped up to appear across
the secondary. The secondary’s voltage is fed to the spark plugs via the
rotating contact in the distributor and the spark plug leads. The capacitor
reduces arcing across the opening points. On most cars of the last 20 years,
the points have been replaced with an electronic switch (usually a reluctor
or Hall Effect sensor) and a power transistor.
This system remained in place until
the late 1950s, when a ballast resistor
was added. This resistor was placed
in series with the coil primary so that
the voltage applied to the coil did not
exceed 7V. During cranking when the
battery voltage was low, the ballast
resistor was switched out so that full
battery voltage was applied to the coil,
thus giving improved starting.
The next development – starting
in the late 1970s – added electronic
switching of the coil. By using the
points only as a switch input for the
electronic system, the current load carried by the points was reduced. This
resulted in much less pitting and wear
of the contacts.
However, over time, the rubbing
block of the points still wears out and
so fully electronic systems were introduced that replaced the points with a
contactless sensor. These systems use
reluctor, optical or Hall Effect sensors
positioned inside the distributor to
trigger the electronic switching.
Main Features
•
Operates from points, reluctor, Hall Effect and optical triggers, or 5V
signal from engine management computer
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
5-15V negative earth operation
Selectable dwell period
Coil switches off whenever engine is not turning
Dwell extension with low battery voltage
Minimum spark duration of 1ms
Two points debounce periods
Special operation for poorly operating points
Anti-theft ignition disable switch option
Optional inverted trigger signal operation
December 2005 31
Fig.2: the circuit is based on PIC microcontroller IC1. It accepts the trigger input signal, calculates the dwell and
controls high-power Darlington transistor Q1 via transistor Q2. Q3 provides the tachometer drive signal.
Note that in these approaches, the
ignition system remains a stand-alone
device; fuel is provided by a completely separate carburettor or fuel
injection system.
The development in the 1980s of
engine management integrated the
fuel and ignition systems. The position
sensor acted as an input to the Electronic Control Unit (ECU), with the
ECU outputting a signal to a dedicated
ignition module that switched the
coil. High voltage spark distribution
in these single coil systems continued
to be achieved by a distributor.
Finally, the distributor has now
been replaced by individual coils
for each cylinder (or in some cases,
double-ended coils for cylinder pairs),
where each coil has its own switching
electronics and is fired by direct signal
from the ECU.
The electronic ignition system presented here is suitable for upgrading
32 Silicon Chip
all the described systems except the
last: it will not work with multi-coil
cars (well, not without buying a bunch
of ignition kits, anyway!).
Input triggers
The way in which points work is
easy enough to understand but what’s
all this about reluctor, optical and Hall
Effect sensors?
• Reluctor: a reluctor trigger comprises a coil wound around an iron
core. A ring magnet with small externally protruding sections (teeth) is
installed on the distributor shaft. As
each tooth of the magnet passes the
sensor, a voltage is developed in the
coil. These voltage spikes provide the
timing signal. Incidentally, in place
of the reluctor, a magneto signal can
be used as a suitable trigger signal for
this project.
• Optical: an optical trigger comprises
a LED and a phototransistor or photo
diode. The pair is incorporated within
a package that allows the light from the
LED to impinge on the photodetector.
To switch the photodetector on and
off, an opaque vane passes between
the LED and its sensor. In addition to
factory optical systems, this ignition
caters for commercial optical ignition
triggers such as those from Lumenition, Piranha and Crane.
• Hall Effect: a Hall Effect trigger is a
semiconductor device that switches
its output on or off, depending on
the presence or absence of a magnetic field. Generally, the magnet is
included within the sensor package
and so the sensor is easily triggered
by passing an iron vane through the
provided gap. The Hall Effect unit
triggers when the iron vane is removed
from the gap.
• ECU: as described above, in singlecoil cars with engine management, the
ECU signals the ignition module when
siliconchip.com.au
to switch off current to the coil. This
signal is generally a 5V square wave.
New design features
The starting point for this design
was the High Energy Ignition published in the May and June 1998 issues
of SILICON CHIP. While that design
worked well, the MC3334P ignition
IC used in the project is now obsolete.
Fortunately, the availability of cheap
programmable microcontrollers solves
that problem and also allows us to add
new features without substantially
increasing the complexity or cost.
• Variable Dwell: in the previous design, the ignition coil was charged for
virtually the whole time, with only a
1ms break when it was called upon to
fire the coil. This was done to ensure
that the coil was as fully charged as
possible. However, this caused a lot
of heat generation in both the coil and
switching transistor. This is because
after the coil becomes fully charged,
the only restrictions to current flow are
the series resistance of the coil and the
ballast resistor (if fitted).
In our new design, the coil charges
for only the correct dwell period for
the specific coil. In practice, the coil
is switched on just before firing, the
selected dwell time ensuring that the
coil is fully charged but without the
consumption of any more power than
required. If the engine RPM becomes
so high that the dwell period cannot
fit within successive firings of the coil,
the dwell period is reduced but with
the firing period fixed at a minimum
of 1ms. This 1ms minimum allows
sufficient time for the coil to deliver
a healthy spark.
The dwell can be set from 1-33ms
in 1ms steps, with most coils typically requiring at least 4ms dwell. To
compensate for the longer charging
period required for the coil with a
lower supply voltage, the dwell time
is automatically extended when the
battery voltage falls below 12V. This
helps maintain spark energy when
starting the engine.
Another important feature of this
unit is that the coil is not energised
when the ignition is switched on.
It charges only after the engine has
begun to crank. This feature prevents
the coil from overheating when the
ignition is switched on but the engine
is not started.
In addition, if the engine stops turning with the ignition still switched
siliconchip.com.au
Specifications
Dwell Settings: 1-33ms in 1ms steps or an input dependent selection
Spark Duration: a minimum of 1ms
Dwell Extension With Voltage: progressively increases from 2x at below
12V through to 4x at 7.2V supply.
Debounce Period: 0.5ms or 2ms selectable
Timeout Delay: coil switched off after about 1s with engine stopped
Maximum RPM For 1ms Dwell & 1ms Spark: 15,000 RPM for 4-cylinder,
10,000 RPM for 6-cylinder and 7500 RPM for 8-cylinder engines (4-stroke)
Maximum RPM Before Selected Dwell Begins To Reduce:
• For 5ms dwell – 5000 RPM for a 4-cylinder engine, 3300 RPM for a
6-cylinder engine, 2500 RPM for an 8-cylinder engine
For
10ms dwell – 2727 RPM for a 4-cylinder engine, 1818 RPM for a
•
6-cylinder engine, 1363 RPM for an 8-cylinder engine
• For 15ms dwell – 1875 RPM for a 4-cylinder engine, 1250 RPM for a
6-cylinder engine, 937.5 RPM for an 8-cylinder engine
on, the coil is turned off after about
one second.
• Points Debounce: points debounce
is needed because points tend not to
open or close cleanly. When closing,
points can bounce back open, just as
a hammer does when hitting a steel
plate, and this can cause a series of
rapid openings and closings. When
opening, the points can also bounce as
the distributor cam wobbles, because
of slight play in the distributor shaft.
By setting the minimum spark duration at 1ms, the coil will fire cleanly as
the points first open. This provides the
full spark duration and by this time the
coil will have discharged. However, if
the coil is then allowed to charge up
before the points close again, there
can be a second spark produced if
the points bounce upon closure. This
second spark can produce ignition
in one of the engine cylinders at the
wrong time.
The solution for this is to provide a
points debounce period so that when
the points first close, subsequent openings can be ignored. However, there is
a limit to the length of this debounce
period. If it is made too long, then
the upper RPM of the engine can be
severely limited as the time between
firing points becomes the same as the
debounce period. For severe points
bounce problems, it is best to start
charging the coil only after the points
close, so that any points bounce will
not produce a spark.
To solve these problems, we have
provided a “points” selection mode.
However, in this mode, some of the
advanced features of the system are
lost – dwell time becomes fixed, for
example. In this mode, the firing duration and dwell are set by the time that
the points are open and closed, respectively. This setting should be selected
when using points that produce erratic
firing using the normal setting.
A 2ms debounce period can also
be selected for points rather than
the standard 0.5ms for other trigger
inputs.
• Voltage Level Sense: because of the
large number of triggers that can be
used, there is an option to change the
voltage level sense that determines the
firing point for ignition. For points, the
firing point is always when the points
just open, so in this case the voltage
goes positive from 0V to 12V.
For other sensors, the voltage sense
may be different. For example with
the Hall Effect or optical triggers, it
depends on whether the ignition firing point occurs when the vane enters
the sensor or leaves the sensor. So at
the firing point, the voltage could be
going from 0V to a more positive voltage, or from the positive voltage to 0V.
A simple jumper change selects the
required sense.
Circuit description
The circuit for the Electronic Ignition is based around high-temperature
December 2005 33
Par t s Lis t – Ignition System
1 PC board, code 05112051,
102 x 81mm
1 diecast aluminium case, 119 x
93 x 57mm
2 cordgrip grommets
1 transistor insulating bush
1 T0-218 insulating washer rated
at 3kV
1 8MHz crystal (X1)
1 18-pin DIL IC socket
3 3-way pin headers
3 shorting links
3 crimp eyelets
4 9mm tapped standoffs
4 M3 x 15mm screws
2 M3 x 9mm screws
6 M3 star washers
10 PC stakes
1 2m length red automotive wire
1 2m length black automotive wire
1 2m length green automotive
wire
1 100mm length of 0.7mm tinned
copper wire
1 5kW horizontal trimpot (VR1)
Semiconductors
1 PIC16F88-E/P microcontroller
programmed with ignition.hex
1 MJH10012, BU941P TO-218
high-voltage Darlington transistor (Q1)
2 BC337 NPN transistors (Q2,Q3)
1 LM2940CT-5 low-dropout 5V
regulator (REG1)
4 75V 3W zener diodes (ZD1-ZD4)
Capacitors
3 100mF 16V PC electrolytic
1 10mF 16V PC electrolytic
1 100nF MKT polyester
1 10nF MKT polyester
1 1nF MKT polyester
2 33pF ceramic
Resistors (0.25W 1%)
1 100kW
1 1.8kW
2 47kW
1 470W
2 2.2kW
1 100W 5W
Points version
1 100W 5W resistor
Reluctor Version
1 BC337 NPN transistor (Q4)
1 2.2nF MKT polyester capacitor
1 470pF ceramic capacitor
1 100kW top-adjust multi-turn
trimpot (VR2)
1 47kW 0.25W 1% resistor
2 10kW 0.25W 1% resistor
1 1kW 0.25W 1% resistor
1 PC stake
Hall Effect Version
1 Hall Effect sensor (Jaycar ZD1900) or Lumenition module
1 rotating vane using a 15W
power potentiometer backing
(eg, Jaycar RP-3975 – not required for Lumenition module)
1 small quantity of high-temp
erature epoxy (eg, JB Weld
Epoxy Steel Resin)
1 1kW 0.25W 1% resistor
1 100W 0.25W 1% resistor
2 PC stakes
Optical Pickup Version
1 optical pickup (Piranha, Crane,
etc)
1 22kW 0.25W 1% resistor
1 120W 0.25W 1% resistor
2 PC stakes
Miscellaneous
Angle brackets for mounting, automotive connectors, self-tapping
screws etc.
Note: the programming code (ignition.hex) for the PIC16F88-E/P microprocessor
featured in this project will not be released or be made available on our website.
Authorised kitsellers will supply programmed micros as part of their kits. For
people who do not wish to build the project from a kit, programmed micros will be
available from SILICON CHIP for $25.00 including postage anywhere within Australia,
or $30.00 by airmail elsewhere.
microcontroller IC1 (a PIC16F88-E/P)
which processes the signal from the
ignition trigger – see Fig.2. An output
on the microcontroller drives transistor Q2 and this controls the action of
the main switching transistor Q1.
34 Silicon Chip
Transistor Q1 is a Darlington transistor specifically made for ignition systems. It is capable of handling currents
of over 10A when it is switched on
and voltages exceeding 400V when it
is switched off. Four 75V zener diodes
Spark Timing
The electronic ignition system
presented here does not alter spark
timing. Irrespective of whether the
required variation in timing is provided by a weights and vacuum advance/retard system or electronically by the ECU, the original timing
will be retained when the electronic
ignition system is installed.
In a future issue we intend
presenting a development of this
project that will allow ignition timing to be altered. That project will
allow the existing timing to be fully
mapped on the basis of engine
RPM and inlet manifold pressure.
Firing Spacing
Some rare engines have an
uneven length of time between
cylinder plug firings. This can be
seen by an uneven spacing of
the cam lobes within the distributor, or an uneven spacing in the
electronic trigger (eg, the slots in
a Hall Effect vane). This electronic
ignition system is not suitable for
such applications except when set
in points mode.
(ZD1-ZD4) are connected in series
to protect the transistor from excess
voltages by clamping the collector
voltage at 300V.
An ignition inhibit link (LK4) is
connected in series with transistor
Q1’s base drive. When this connection
is open, the transistor does not switch
on and so the ignition is disabled. This
allows a hidden switch to be added,
to enable and disable the ignition to
protect the car from theft.
Base drive for Q1 is via a 100W 5W
wirewound resistor from the 12V supply. The current through this resistor is
diverted from Q1’s base when transistor Q2 is switched on. When Q2 is off,
Q1 is switched on and the ignition coil
is charged (ie, current flows through
the primary). As soon as Q2 switches
on, Q1 is switched off and the coil’s
magnetic flux collapses so as to develop a high voltage in the secondary
to drive the spark plug. Transistor Q2
is driven via a 470W resistor from the
RB3 output (pin 9) of IC1.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.3: the six input trigger circuits: (a) points triggering; (b) Hall effect (and Lumenition) triggering; (c) triggering from
an engine management module; (d) reluctor pickup; (e) Crane optical pickup; and (f) Piranha optical pickup.
IC1 accepts its timing signal at the
RB0 input (pin 6) and drives the RB3
output accordingly. The RB0 input
is protected from excess voltages by
the 2.2kW resistor in series with this
input. The protection resistor prevents
excessive current flow in the clamping diodes that are internal to IC1.
Clamping occurs when the voltage
goes below 0V or if it goes above the
5V supply (ie, clamping to -0.6V or
+5.6V). The 1nF capacitor at the RB0
input shunts transient voltages and
higher frequency signals, preventing
false timing signals.
The three inputs at RA1, RA4 and
RA5 (pins 18, 3 & 5) are for the linking
options. Link LK1 selects whether the
firing edge for the RB0 input is for a
positive going voltage (standard selection) or for a falling voltage (inverted
selection); link LK2 selects either the
standard 0.5ms debounce period or
the 2ms period; and Link LK3 selects
normal or points operation.
There are two voltage inputs –AN3
(pin 1) and AN2 (pin 2). The AN3
input is used to monitor the car battery voltage via the 100kW and 47kW
voltage divider. It is included to allow
the dwell time to be automatically
increased at voltages below 12V.
Trimpot VR1 applies between 0V
and 5V to the AN2 input to provide
siliconchip.com.au
a means of setting the dwell time. A
5V setting gives a 1ms dwell period,
while 0V selects the 33ms maximum
dwell, with other settings between
these extremes setting the dwell in 1ms
steps. Both the AN2 and AN3 inputs
are decoupled using a capacitor to
ground to filter transient voltages.
Transistor Q3 provides a tachometer
output and it is driven from the trigger
input which also drives pin 6 (RBO)
of IC1. Q3’s collector is pulled up to
12V with a 2.2kW resistor when the
transistor is off. The output at Q3’s
collector can be used to drive most
tachometers. An impulse tachometer
(now very rare) requires a different
connection and should operate when
connected to the coil negative.
As set by crystal X1, IC1 runs at
8MHz. Its supply is decoupled with a
100nF capacitor for high frequencies
and a 100mF capacitor for the lower
frequencies.
Power for the circuit is derived from
the ignition switch. This 12V supply
is also directly used for other parts of
the circuit. For example, it is used for
the points trigger circuit and the 100W
base resistor for Q1.
The supply is regulated to 5V using
3-terminal regulator REG1. This is a
low-dropout device that continues
to deliver 5V even when its input is
very close to 5V. This is useful in our
application, as we want a regulated 5V
supply to be maintained even when
starting, when the voltage on the car
battery can drop well below 12V.
The regulator is also protected from
transients with internal protection
clamping. The 100mF capacitors provide supply decoupling.
Trigger inputs
The Electronic Ignition is configured
for the appropriate trigger input during
construction. The six possible input
circuits are shown in Fig.3.
The points input shown in Fig.3(a)
comprises a 100W 5W wirewound
resistor connected to the 12V supply.
The resistor provides a “wetting” current for the points to ensure there is a
good contact between the two mating
faces when they are closed. This wetting current is sufficient to keep the
contacts clean – burning off oil resides,
for example – but not so high so as to
damage them.
The Hall Effect input at Fig.3(b) uses
a 100W supply resistor to the 12V rail
to feed the Hall sensor. This resistor
limits current into the unit should a
transient on the supply go above its
internal clamping diode level. The
1kW resistor on the output pulls up
the output voltage to 5V when the inDecember 2005 35
Fig.4: this oscilloscope view shows a reluctor signal
(top) and the output of the ignition coil, as measured at
the collector of Q1 (bottom). The reluctor signal has a
larger voltage excursion than other trigger sensors and
the negative-going edge triggers the firing of the coil. The
primary voltage of the coil (lower trace) is clamped at
around 332V by the four series 75V zener diodes.
Fig.5: the yellow trace at top shows the reluctor signal,
while the lower trace (blue) shows the base switching
signal to transistor Q1. The coil fires each time the base
voltage goes to ground. Note that the period for which the
base signal is positive (ie, 6ms) is the dwell time and this
is the charge period for the coil (ie, when energy is being
stored in the magnetic circuit of the coil).
Fig.6: at top is the signal at the trigger input of the circuit ie, the signal that is monitored by the RB0 input of IC1 via
the 2.2kW resistor. This signal is typical of a points, Hall
Effect and optical triggering. The lower trace is the base
drive to transistor Q1. This shows the 6ms dwell occurring
just before firing.
Fig.7: the top trace (in yellow) is a high RPM signal (in
this case, 6000 RPM for a 4-cylinder 4-stroke engine). The
lower trace (in blue) shows the resulting switching signal
fed to the coil. Note how the dwell is now 3.98ms instead
of the standard 6ms, while the spark duration is fixed at
1ms.
What About The Multi Spark CDI?
Considering that this project supersedes all previous versions of our very
popular High Energy Ignition (HEI) system, readers may be wondering about
the status of the Multi-Spark Capacitor Discharge Ignition system which was
featured in the September 1997 issue of SILICON CHIP.
The good news is that this project is still valid for 2-stroke engines, high
performance 4-stroke engines and old vehicles, particularly those with high
compression motors. The kit is still available from Dick Smith Electronics (Cat.
K-3307) at $148.00.
The DSE kit is supplied with all specified components and hardware, including a diecast box to house the project. Kits are available only on special order
through the DSE web address at www.dse.com.au or through their mail-order
Sales Department (phone 1300 366 644 toll-free Australia only).
36 Silicon Chip
ternal open-collector transistor is off.
The voltage is at 0V when the internal
transistor is on. The same circuit can
be used for the Lumenition optical
module.
The engine management input circuit is shown in Fig.3(c) and is quite
simple – its 5V signal connects to the
trigger section of the main circuit in
Fig.2.
Reluctor sensors produce an AC
signal and so require a more complex
input circuit – see Fig.3(d). In this
case, transistor Q4 switches on or off,
depending on whether the reluctor
voltage is positive or negative.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.8: this shows
the points mode
where the input
points signal at top
is followed by the
output signal (lower
trace). The debounce
period is set at 2ms,
as shown by the 2ms
pulses that follow
the main pulses.
Initially with no reluctor voltage,
transistor Q4 is switched on via
current through VR2 and the 47kW
resistor.
The voltage applied to Q4’s base
is dependent on the 10kW resistor
connecting to the top of the reluctor
coil and the internal resistance of the
reluctor. VR2 is included to provide
for a wide range of reluctor types.
Some reluctors have a relatively low
resistance, while others have a higher
resistance.
In practice, VR2 is adjusted so that
Q4 is just switched on when there is
no signal from the reluctor. The 10kW
resistor provides a load for the reluctor,
while the 470pF capacitor filters any
RF or hash signal that may have been
induced. The 2.2nF capacitor ensures
that Q4 quickly switches off when the
reluctor signal goes negative.
Optical pickup circuits are provided
for two different types of modules.
One is for a module that has a common 0V supply connection [eg, Crane
– Fig.3(e)] and the other for a module
that has a common positive supply
[eg, Piranha (Fig.3(f)]. In each case,
current for the LED is supplied via a
120W resistor and the photodiode and
a 22kW resistor are connected in series
with the 5V supply.
Next month, we will give the full
construction details and describe the
installation. We’ll also describe how
to convert a distributor from points to
SC
Hall effect trigger operation.
Talk about
a generation gap.
The new Tektronix
AFG3000 Series signal
generators vs.
the competition.
c 2005 Tektronix, Inc. All rights reserved. Tektronix products
are covered by U.S. and foreign patents, issued and pending.
TEKTRONIX and the Tektronix logo are registered trademarks
of Tektronix, Inc. *Tektronix MSRP subject to change without notice.
Starting from around $2600+GST. * Unlike the subtle
advancements offered in arbitrary/function generators of past decades, our powerful and broad line of
arbitrary/function generators delivers serious
advantages. The large display confirms your settings at a glance. Sine waveforms reach as high as
240 MHz. You get a front-loading USB port, twochannel capability, and a remarkably intuitive GUI.
Visit www.tek.com/generation_gap to see the
next generation of signal generation.
The Next Generation.
http://www.tektronix.com/4130
Enabling Innovation
Tektronix Authorized Distributor
N e w Tek Instruments Pty Ltd
Here is a preview of the assembled PC board (Reluctor version shown). The full
assembly details are in Pt.2 next month.
siliconchip.com.au
Address: 3 Byfield Street,
North Ryde NSW 2113
Telephone: (02)9888-0100
Email: info<at>newtekinstruments.com
December 2005 37
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• Plug & Play – Easy to install.
• Use as 8-in-1 reader/writer when
connected to your PC.
NEW
$84.00
USB 2.0 Audio Adaptor
* Connect your headphones & Mic
through your USB Port
* Soft Mute Button
* Win & Mac compatible
•
•
•
•
•
•
NEW
$21.20
USB Notebook Cooler Pad
Fans: 2 x 80 x 80 x 10mm
Airflow: 28 CFM
Noise level: 25dBA
Speed: 1500rpm
Power: USB
Dimensions: 300 x 230 x 13.8mm
Supplied: Retail Pack
640x480 USB Colour PC Camera
Video Mode: 24 bit true colour
Image Focus: 5cm to Infinity
Auto brightness adjustment
Auto colour compensation
Manual Focus
Fast Snap button
$23.90
*
*
*
*
*
*
640 x 480 USB PC Camera
33316
*
*
*
*
*
*
$11.90
$5.00
Mini 4 Port USB 2.0 Hub
Mini, lightweight design
Complies with USB 2.0 specs
Supports high speed 480Mbps
Size: 83 x 33 x 13mm
Plug & Play installation
Lead Included
NEW
$23.20
*
*
*
*
*
$9.50
USB 2.0 2.5” Portable Hard Case
Internal Interface: IDE
No Ext. Power required
Solid aluminium body
Size: 126 x 75 x 13mm
Carry Pouch Included
32597
* Connectors: 3 external
Data transfer: Asyn. & Isochonous,
100/200/400 Mb/s
* Includes 1394 cable & Software
* 32-Bit CRCz checking on
reception of 1394 data packets
$5.90
33320
32-Bit PCI to IEEE1394 Firewire Card
5 Port USB 2.0 PCI Card
Reliable, Universal, Auto design
No tracking ball to clean
Works on most surfaces
800 D.P.I resolution
Connection: USB
32591
Security USB Virtual Key
33317
* Supports up to 480Mbps data transfer rate
* Requires 1 x PCI Slot
4 Ext. +1 int Ports
* Drivers Included
31108
NEW
$21.50
* Creates a hidden partition on your
hard drive which is only accessable
with the USB Virtual Key
* Data protection, PC & Web lock
* Supports Win, 98SE, 2000 & XP
$29.70
Mini Blue 3D Optical Wheel Mouse
* No mouse pad required, gives smooth
precise motion.
* Optical Sensor: 3000frames/sec
* 800 D.P.I resolution
* Size: 83 x 39 x 21mm
* Connection: USB
$17.90
33319
$15.90
Stereo Ear-Hook Headset & Mic
33313
$8.30
MP3/PC Stereo Ear-Hook Headset
* 2 Ear pieces
* Impedance: 32 Ohm
* Sensitivity:
102dB S.P.L<at>1KHz
* Cable Length: 2.5m
* 3.5mm Stereo Plug
33311
$8.30
Gooseneck Stereo PC Mic.
*
*
*
*
*
*
Audio In Operation
Internet phone talk
IP Telephone
Frequency: 20-16.000Hz
Impedance: 2.0K
For all multimedia purposes
*
*
*
*
*
Reading Book Light
Metal Clip for mounting
Adjustable light
Folds Flat
Inc. Batteries
33309
$8.30
Socket 478 CPU Cooler
* CPU Cooler
* Rating: 12VDC<at>0.2A
* Ball bearing fan
$9.50
Auto Setting Book Night Light
33315
Notebook USB Fan
* Adjustable
gooseneck
33312
$6.90
5 in 1 USB Travel Cable/
Adaptor Kit
* USB “A” type male to female
retractable ext.
lead plus 4 Adaptors
* Length: 1m
32601
$8.50
Gooseneck USB LED Light 3 in 1 Firewire Travel
Cable/Adaptor Kit
* Flexible-Stays where you put it
* Brightness: 12,000 mcd
* Length: 440mm
$6.90
* No Hard Drive Installed
$9.80
32588
* Impedance: 32 Ohm
* Sensitivity:
108dB S.P.L<at>1KHz
* Cable Length: 1.8m
* 3.5mm Stereo Plug
$17.50
Mini Notebook Optical Wheel Mouse
USB to Parallel Printer Cable
4 x USB 2.0 ports & DC power jack
480 Mbps transfer speed (USB2.0)
USB 1.1 & 2.0 compatible
32-bit Cardbus Type II
Supports up to 127 units
Output: 500mA per port
•
•
•
•
•
$19.50
* True PnP & Bi-Directional printing
* Desc: ‘A’ Type USB to
NEW
36 Pin Centronics
* Length: 1.4m
* Colour: Black
$17.90
* Operation Distance: up to 1m
* Resolution: 800 D.P.I
* Mouse Size:
87x46x33mm
* Colour: Silver / Black
* Connection: USB
* Batteries Included
32590
33307
Desc: ‘A’ Type USB to DB9 Male
Length: 1m
Colour: Clear
Mac or PC Compatible
Mini Wireless Notebook
Optical Wheel Mouse
33310
NEW
* Frame Rate: up to 640 x 480
* Lens: 6.00mm
* View Angle: +/-28°
* Focus Range: 3cm - infinity
* Interface: USB
Supplied: Retail Pack
PCMCIA 4 Port USB 2.0 Cardbus
*
*
*
*
*
*
$24.50
Virtulally indestructable
Made from high quality silicone
Spill/Dust Proof
Win 98/2000/Me/XP
USB & PS2 connection
Colour: Blue
USB to RS232 Converter
33318
NEW
USB/PS2 Flexible Full Sized Keyboard
33324
32599
*
*
*
*
32592
33308
33506
33322
Digital Terrestrial TV & Radio recieving
Mobile & small size
• Still Frame Capture
No extra power needed
• Teletext
TV with time shifting function
Electronic program guide
Real time Digital Video Recording
(PVR) & Schedule Recording
Wireless Optical Wheel Mouse
* With self recharging station
* Operation Distance: up to 1m
* Resolution: 800 D.P.I
* Radio Frequency: 27MHz
* Mouse Size: 122x64x39mm
* Colour: Silver / Black
* Connection: USB
$21.50
* Batteries Included
33517
Now viewing and sharing digital photos is as simple
as watching TV.
Just insert your memory cards or USB flash
drive and you can show
larger-than-life images and
video clips, and can play MP3 music
files on your home audio system.
NEW
31106
$3.90
* IEEE1394 type male to male
retractable ext. lead plus
2 Adaptors
* Length: 1m
33321
$7.80
Orders To: PH. 03 9562 8559 Fax. 03 9562 8772 Email. salesdept<at>rockby.com.au
SPECIALS
Rockby Electronics
Free to Air Standard Digital Set Top Box
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
4000 programmable Channels
DVB, MPEG-2 Compliant
Data Transfer between units
Teletext
Electronic Programme Guide
Parental Lock
RF Modulator
Games (Tetris, Sokoban)
Dual socket Line Surge Protector & Tel.
• Vertical Double Adaptor
• 2 x RJ12 sockets, suits modems,
faxes, computers etc...
JACKSON PT0680
$129.00
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
31008
Analog Sound Level Meter
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
Range: 40-80dB, 80-120dB
Simple hand held operation
Battery Test
With Capacitance Microphone
Size: 160 x 65 x 38mm
Includes 9VDC Battery
Includes Carry Pouch
NAIS TF2E-12V Mini DPDT DIL Relay
$49.80
Height: 10mm
Holesize: 1.2mm
Pk size: 100
Frequency Range: 0.95-2.4GHz
Gain: 11dB
Sensitivity: 7
Operating Range: 52-60dB
Pocket Compass Included
$23.20
MIN QTY 10
Oxygen Free Copper
Low resistance conductors
Outside Dia: 2 x 7mm
10m Roll
32053
18774
10068
27604
$9.00
31904
12VDC 60 x 60 x 25mm Fan
Cigarette Adaptor Extension
Lead
Male to Female
Type: 18AWG
Length: 1m
$5.00
30749
$1.50
ABN# 3991 7350 807
ACN# 006 829 821
29991
Spacing:5mm
$1.50
12300
BU508A
1500V 8A 125W
12303 BU508DF
20359 BU2527AF
20356 BU2508DF
1500V 8A 34W
$2.00
$5.00
$3.00
$2.00
1500V 12A 45W
1500V 8A 45W
1000uF 25V Radial Electro Capaci-
$1.00
$2.50
Value: 1000uF
Volts: 25V
Type: Radial
Temp: 85°
Size: 12. x 15mm
Spacing: 5mm
18 Turn Multiturn Trimpots
30972
29448
15284
$0.10
20089
MIN QTY 50
MURATA Single Turn VTL
Cermet Trimpots
Type: Top Adj
Tol: 10%
Power Rating. 0.5W
Manuf: COPAL
10K
$1.00
100K
2m IEC Power Lead
(Insulated Pins)
Desc. IEC Power Lead.
Rated: 10A
Length: 2.0m
Colour: Black
$2.80
14488
Rockby Electronics Pty Ltd
Showroom & Pick-up Orders:
56 Renver Rd. Clayton
Victoria 3168
Ph: (03) 9562-8559 Fax: (03) 9562-8772
$2.00
NPN Power Transistors
MTD3055E 60V 12A 48W
BTS115A
100V 15A $1.00
IRL2505S
55V 104A
Device:A90-86-265
Desc:Desk Case With Removable
Aluminium Top Panel
Colour:Off White/Pebble Grey
Size(WDHmm):190 x 138 x 47/31.5
$14.70
33383
$0.40
D-2 Pack SMD Fets
Heavy Duty OFC Speaker Cable OKW Plastic ABS (UL-94HB)
• High Quality 12AWG
Desk Case
Size: 60 x 60 x 25mm
Voltage: 12VDC<at>0.2A
Type: Ball Bearing-2 ball
Manuf: Dynaeon
40A Isolated Tab Triac
100kHz 2.5A Switching Regulator
$14.20
$5.00
Package: TO-247
29227 2 Way 10x9x12mm $0.20
29229 3 Way 15x9x12mm $0.30
4 Way Manual Audio-Video Selector
33372
Device: HIT640
Volts: 600V
Amps: 40A
Package: TO-218
No Mixing
Device: LT1171CQ
Package: DD-Pak
*Data Sheet Available
31199
$4.00
33006
Interlocking Terminal Blocks
* Simply plug into electrical 240V socket and connect TV
antenna cable into the
Input socket and TV/VCR cable
to the output socket.
* Frequency: 5~1000MHz
* Gain: 20dB (Adjustable)
$22.00
* Noise: 3dB
31640
* Pal & F type Adaptors
• Allows connection of 4 A/V
devices in to one television
• Works with any AV Device
• Gold Plated RCA Connectors
• Low Signal loss
• Cables not supplied
31637
MIN QTY 5
21828
Plug In TV Signal 20dB Amplifier
650V 7A Power Switch
Device:KA2S0765
Package:TO-3P-5L
Manuf.: FAIRCHILD
*Data sheet ava. *
(per Pack)
Desc. Twin Row Straight Male Unprotected Header
Type: 80 Pins (40 x 2)
Spac: .1”
$5.00
31202
Device: BYT230PIV400
Case: ISOTOP
* Data Sheet Available *
Gold Dual Row Header
32497
•
•
•
•
Device:PC1602ARS
(No Backlighting)
View Area(mm): 66x16.2
Active Area(mm):56.21x11.5
Char Size:(mm):2.96x5.56
* Data sheet Available *
Dual 400V 30A Fast Recovery Diode
$2.00
33537
Analog Satellite Signal Level Meter
*
*
*
*
*
$1.00
10mm PCB Matrix Pins (Pk-100)
$23.50
MIN QTY 5
16 x 2 LCD Module
$29.90
Device:TF2E-12V-2W
Switching Curr.: 1A
Switching Volt.: 110V/125AC
Switching Pwr: 30W 62.5VA
Coil Res.: 1800 Ohm
31622
Size: 14 x 9 x 7.8mm
* Data Sheet Available *
RJ45 & RJ11 Modular Cable Tester
31955
Easily Adjusts to any position
30mm Flexible Gooseneck
90mm Diameter 5 diopter lens
Base Mounted Power Switch
Integral hinged dust cover
240VAC mainspowered
High Enegy 12W fluoro tube
$0.35
26576
Desktop Illuminated Magnifier
31124
31017
* Quickly & easily checks for
cable continuity, miswiring,
open, short, straight-through
or cross pinning.
$5.00
Clearing Item
33535
5mm Tri-Colour Led
Colours: Red, Green, Yellow.
Lum.: 10mcd <at>20mA
W/length: 567(nm) <at>20mA
Forward Curr.: 30mA
White Diffused Lens.
*Data Sheet avail.
Taper: Linear
Max. working Voltage: 100VDC
Wattage Rating: 1/3 W
Tolerance: 20%
Spacing: 5mm (back Pins)
5mm (back to front pin)
MIN QTY 10
33297
33294
33302
33299
33298
33296
33293
33295
200R
2K
5K
10K
20K
50K
100K
500K
No Mixing
$0.25
For a Free Monthly Please contact Rockby
Mail Orders To:
P.O Box 1189 Huntingdale
Victoria 3166
Internet:
Web Address: www.rockby.com.au
Email: salesdept<at>rockby.com.au
* Stock is subject to prior sale
For on-line Ordering and other Products see our web site www.rockby.com.au
A programmable
programmablerobot
robot you
you can
can build
build––without
withoutsoldering!
soldering!
In November,
we introduced
the Microbric
range – an exciting
new concept
in electronic
construction using
screw-together
“brics” (hence the
name) on which various
electronic functions were
already built.
N
of mistakes is very much reduced
ow we’re about to build one
due to the modular construction. And
of the Microbric “models” – a
even the finished Viper is not the end
nifty little programmable robot
of the story: while it comes with both
called the Viper!
a bump sensor and infrared receiver,
The beauty of the Microbric system
there are additional packs which will
is that soldering – the bane of beginlet you customise your Viper to do,
ners and the worry of their mothers – is
well, whatever you want him to.
eliminated. The various circuit conMaybe you’re into Robot Wars (see
nections are made when the devices
SILICON CHIP September 2003). You
are screwed together in the correct
can add the “Sumo Pack” and turn
manner. So no more than a screwdriver
your viper into a fighting machine
is needed to build a Microbric project
with a flipper. Or perhaps add a sec– and even that is supplied!
ond pair of wheels with the Motor and
In many ways, Microbric can be
thought of as a combination of
electronics and Lego or Meccano.
As they say, it’s “fuel for the imagination.”
• Easy to build!
To be launched in selected
News Ltd papers this month • No soldering!
(with a likelihood of others later) • Reusable!
is the I-bot robot. For SILICON • Fun!
CHIP readers, though, we’re going with something a little more • Programmed in BASIC (BASIC ATOM)
ambitious . . .
• 16 input/output pins
Features:
The Viper
The Viper is a programmable
robot which is easy to construct –
but offers the user incredible satisfaction. You still get “the thrill
of the build” but the likelihood
40 Silicon Chip
Wheels add-on pack. Or a
line-tracking module. And
so much more.
In later issues we plan to look at
some of these packs and add on to the
Viper we’re describing here.
But let’s say you’ve built the Viper
and customised him and now you’re
looking for new challenges. Does that
mean the Viper sits in the cupboard
and languishes?
Not on your life(buoy)! All of the
components which make up the Viper are reusable: simply unscrew the
modules and you’re ready to
make something else.
• Each motor module has an onboard microcontroller
• All modules have current limiting on inputs and
outputs
• LED modules have high impedance input using
Mosfets for switching
A brief recap
Last month we explained the
ingenious Microbric system and
how it went together. Just in
case you missed it . . . Microbric
is a system of interconnecting
electronic modules which enables quick and easy building of
complex systems.
At its core is the patented Microbric Edge and connector “bric”.
Each edge has three connectors:
+5V, ground and data. When you
connect the brics together, you
connect these three connectors.
siliconchip.com.au
The Viper Motherboard,
ready for assembly. The beauty of the
system is that all the soldering is done for you!
The brics themselves attach to
a pre-assembled and task-specific
module. There are microcontroller
motherboards, communication modules, motor modules, sensor modules,
human interface modules (buttons,
switches, etc), and LED modules with
many more planned for the future.
Let’s now return to the Viper. It has
an ATOM microcontroller board at its
heart, to which are attached various
Microbric modules: a pair of motor
modules (along with wheels), two
battery holders (each contains three
AAA cells), the bump sensors, two
LED modules, some switches, a piezo
. . . and of course, we mustn’t forget
the cosmetic modules which give the
Viper its unique looks!
The microcontroller
The double-sided “main” PC board,
contains not only the microcontroller
but also a power supply, RS232 interface and provision for battery packs.
Around the edge of the PC board are 16
bric interfaces, known as Pins. These
are labelled P0 to P15. It is to these
that the various functional modules
are attached.
To connect a module, line up the
red dot on the appropriate module
with the red dot on the motherboard
at the required pin and fit a Microbric
“bric” into the holes on the edge of
your LED module.
The tiny pins on the Bric fit into the
holes; one way it will sit straight but
the other way (the wrong way!) will
sit crooked. Finally, the three screws
are firmly tightened to complete the
connection.
Programming
The microcontroller in this case is
an ATOM and is programmed in BASIC. This is a variation of the BASIC
language that is very widely taught
and used in education, so the Viper is
a perfect partner for school computer
courses.
Programming is undertaken via the
serial output of an IBM-type computer.
An RS232C socket and interface on
This is one of the
two motor modules
used in the Viper.
It’s unusual in that
it has two PC boards
in the one module.
Most modules are
one double side, 20.3 x
20.3mm PC board. As you
can see, everything is preassembled – all you have to do is
screw them together in the
appropriate places!
board programs the chip. If you’re
not yet quite up to speed on BASIC,
programming for the Viper is supplied.
To write programs and to get the Microcontroller to read them, you need
to install a program which is provided
on the CD-ROM called BMAtom.exe.
You need to install this before we
can do any programming to tell your
motherboard, or robot what to do. To
do this, double click on BMAtom.exe
to run the set-up.
Make sure the program installs into
the folder C:\Program Files\Basic
Micro ATOM IDE 2.2. It will ask you
to restart you computer. Do so.
Construction
There will be a set of more detailed
instructions included with the Viper,
but the general arrangement is as follows (use the photos as a guide):
(a) connect all the modules to their
appropriate pins (ensure you use all
three screws) as follows:
Viper Pack Modules
The basic Viper Pack should
contain the following:
Motherboard( CPU) module
2 LED modules
Slide switch module
Buzzer module
Button module
2 Motor modules
Bump sensor module
Infrared receiver module
Assorted passive and
cosmetic modules
2 battery boxes
Infrared remote control
Wheels & tyres
CD of programming software
Programming cable
Screwdriver
20 “Brics” and heaps of screws,
spacers and nuts
siliconchip.com.au
December 2005 41
Here’s how the “brics” screw together,
connecting the power and data lines at
the same time. We’ve shown
more of this detail in the
illustration at right.
The 2 LED modules to P0 and P12
The Bump modules, with bumper
attached, to P13 and P15
The motor modules, with wheels attached, mount from the underside of
the board to P1 and P11
The pushbutton switch module to P6
The backsweeps to P4 and P8 (no
electrical contact or function)
There is nothing connected to P2, P3
P5, P7, P9, P10 or P14.
(b) fit the two battery packs to the
motherboard using the four countersunk head screws and nuts. When
screwed hard down onto the motherboard, contacts on the battery packs
mate with contacts on the board and
the circuit is completed.
(c) Fit the skid (the long metal rod
with blue plastic tip) in place of the
centre screw on P14 (underside of
motherboard).
Testing
The Viper should now be complete.
After checking that all modules are
in the right places and they are all
screwed in correctly, put the batteries in their holders (the right way
around – negatives toward springs)
and apply power.
The red LED under the RS232
socket should light to show the Viper
is powered up
Programming
Once your bump robot is built you
need to program it. You do this via
your personal computer (assuming it
has a serial port – some newer ones
don’t):
1. Open the program, BumpRobot.
bas in BasicMicro IDE from your
CD-ROM
2. Save the program (File/Save As…) to
a location on you hard drive.
3. Connect the serial connector to the
motherboard’s serial port
4. Click on Program to download the
program onto your Bump Robot
microcontroller on the motherboard.
5. Disconnect the serial connector.
6. Press the button on the Button Module to start your Bump Robot.
You’ll find a lot more details on
programming, including how to make
the Viper do a lot more things that you
want it to do, in the documentation
that comes with the
kit, More than
that, the BASIC
ATOM programming
manual is also in-
cluded on the disk so you can learn as
much (or as little!) as you want about
this language. Once you have learnt
BASIC, you are well on you way to
understanding most of the other common programming languages.
There’s also a lot more information on the Microbric website (www.
microbric.com). And we haven’t even
looked at the infrared control capabilities yet (that programming is also on
the CD-ROM).
Next month, we’ll look at using the
infrared remote control before moving
on to the expansion packs.
!
Please note: the Viper photographed on our front cover this
month was an early prototype
with some differences from the
one featured here.
SC
Where do you get the kit?
The Viper kit should now be available from all
Dick Smith Electronics stores, (Cat K-1800)
Recommended retail price of the basic Viper kit is $199.00
42 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Screw the
instructions.
With a few turns of a screwdriver, a PC and some imagination, you can turn the Microbric™ Viper
into anything you want. To see it in action, turn up at Dick Smith Electronics.
siliconchip.com.au
December 2005 43
AJF MIC0004
Exclusive to
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions from
readers are welcome and will be paid for at standard rates.
Solar hot water panel
differential pump controller
This circuit optimises the circulation of heated water from solar hot
water panels to a storage cylinder.
It achieves this by controlling a 12V
DC pump, which is switched on at
a preset temperature differential of
8°C and off at about 4°C.
This method of control has distinct advantages over some systems
that run the pump until the differential approaches 0°C. In such systems,
the pump typically runs whenever
the sun shines.
A small 10W solar panel charging
a 12V SLA battery is sufficient to
run the controller. Most commercial
designs use 230VAC pumps, which
of course don’t work when there is
a power outage or there is no AC
power at the site.
Operation
Temperature sensors TS1 & TS2
are positioned to measure the highest and lowest water temperatures,
with one at the panel outlet and the
44 Silicon Chip
other at the base of the
storage cylinder. The
difference between
the sensor outputs is
amplified by op amp
IC1d, which is configured for a voltage
gain of about 47. As
the sensors produce
10mV/°C, a difference of 8°C will produce about 3.76V at
the op amp’s output
(pin 14).
The output from IC1d is fed into
the non-inverting input (pin 10) of a
second op amp stage (IC1c), which is
wired as a voltage comparator. The
op amp’s inverting input (pin 9) is
tied to a reference voltage, which can
be varied by trimpot VR3.
When the voltage from IC1d
exceeds the reference voltage, the
output of the comparator (pin 8)
swings towards the positive rail.
A 10MW resistor feeds a small por-
tion of the output signal back to the
non-inverting input, adding some
hysteresis to the circuit to ensure
positive switching action.
A third op amp stage (IC1b) acts
as a unity-gain buffer. When the
comparator’s output goes high, the
buffer stage switches the Mosfet
(Q1) on, which in turn energises the
pump motor. Mosfet Q1’s low drainsource on-state resistance means that
in most cases, it won’t need to be
siliconchip.com.au
mounted on a heatsink.
The prototype uses a Davies Craig
EBP 12V magnetic drive pump,
which draws about 1A when running and is suitable for low-pressure
hot water systems only (don’t use it
for mains-pressure systems as it may
burst!). For mains-pressure systems,
the author suggests the SID 10 range
of brass-body magnetic drive pumps
from Ivan Labs USA.
Setup
Each LM335 temperature sensor and its associated trimpot is
glued to a small copper strip using
high-temperature epoxy. It is then
waterproofed with silicon sealant
and encapsulated in heatshrink
tubing. Standard twin-core shielded
microphone cable can be used for the
connection to the circuit board.
Before sealing the two units, adjust their trimpots to get 2.98V at
25°C [(ambient temperature x .01)
+ 2.73V] between the “+” and “-”
terminals. When both have been
adjusted, clamp them together and
allow their temperatures to stabilise
for a few minutes.
Next, measure the output voltage from the differential amplifier
(IC1d), which should be close to 0V.
If not, tweak one of the pots until
it is. Separate the two and warm
the panel sensor (TS1), monitoring the output of IC1d. You should
see a marked increase in voltage,
remembering that an 8°C difference
between the sensors should give an
output of about 3.76V.
The pump switch-on point is set
by VR3 and can be adjusted over a
practical range of about 4-10°C differential (1.88-4.70V). Adjust VR3 to
get about 3.8V on pin 9 of IC1c as a
starting point. If set too low and the
panels are located far from the cylinder, much of the heat will be lost
in the copper connecting pipes. On
the other hand, if set too high and
the weather is mostly cloudy, then
the pump will not switch on very
often, as the panels will not get hot
enough.
For best results, use copper pipes
for the panel plumbing and insulate
them with tubes of closed-cell foam.
As the pipes cool down between
pump operations, small diameter
pipes of 15mm are more efficient
siliconchip.com.au
The “Mystery
Swinger”
Here’s a natty mobile with flashing lights and no visual drive
mechanism. To make the base part
of the swinger, remove the drive
module and battery holder from a
discarded pendulum quartz clock.
Install it under the lid of a plastic
box with the coil pointing up and
bring the battery negative terminal
and output (transistor collector)
leads out for use later.
Next, make an arch of wood or
plastic centred over the plastic box
and from the top centre of this suspend a swinger, positioned so that
it just clears the box. The author
used a light coil spring about 9cm
long for the job, hung by a thread to
give very free motion. A small disc
magnet (saved from the pendulum
clock just dismantled) is glued to
the bottom of the swinger.
Now when the batteries are
installed, the swinger will swing
randomly as it is not constrained as
it is in an ordinary pendulum. Its
than larger sizes as they contain less
static water.
In practice, the pump in the author’s setup switches on for about 30
seconds every 4-5 minutes. As the
Davies pump shifts 13 litres/minute,
it displaces the heated water from
a single panel in about 14 seconds.
source of power is invisible – the
“mystery”!
Connect the leads from this device to the circuit shown and you
have a set of 10 LEDs flashing sequentially in time with the swings.
The circuit is just a standard 4017
ring counter (IC1) with the drive
provided by Q1 which is turned
on and off by the pulses from the
collector of the transistor in the
drive module.
The 470nF capacitor is necessary
to prevent spurious oscillations. The
LEDs are arranged around the arch
and may be in strict order or wired
to appear random. If you prefer LEDs
of various colours, you’ll need a
suitable current-limiting resistor in
each cathode line, rather than the
common 470W unit used here.
Try holding the swinger steady
over the drive module – if the
spring is very light, it will dance up
and down (well, vibrate vertically)
when you let go and set the LEDs
flashing merrily.
A. J. Lowe,
Bardon, Qld. ($35)
There is a thermal lag in the sensor
readings, so after the pump stops,
the temperature difference will keep
decreasing for 40 seconds or so as
the panel sensor cools down and the
cylinder sensor heats up.
Mike Scaife, Porirua City,
Wellington, NZ. ($50)
December 2005 45
Circuit Notebook – Continued
Clap-controlled
switch
This circuit can switch two or
more devices on and off in response
to a series of rapid handclaps. The
claps are picked up by an electret
microphone and amplified by a 741
op amp (IC1).
IC1 is configured as an inverting amplifier, with its gain and
hence the sensitivity of the circuit adjustable via trimpot VR1.
Its output is then fed into a pulseshaping stage based on a 555 timer
(IC2). The 555 is configured as a
monostable multivibrator, with its
trigger input (pin 2) normally biased
to about 0.4VCC by the 150kW and
100kW resistors.
When a loud enough sound is
detected, pin 2 will be pulled below
1/3VCC, triggering the monostable.
The output (pin 3) will immediately
swing high, causing transistor Q1 to
conduct. The result is a 250ms lowgoing pulse at the collector of Q1.
The output from the pulse-shaper
stage is fed into a missing-pulse detector based on a second 555 timer
(IC3), which is also configured as
a monostable multivibrator. However, this monostable circuit differs
from the first because it includes a
“retrigger” function.
Retriggering is made possible by
transistor Q2, which acts to rapidly
discharge the 10mF timing capacitor
should a pulse arrive when the timer is already running. This means
that once triggered, IC3’s output will
remain high as long as additional
trigger pulses are received within
its set timing period.
Pulses from Q1’s collector are
also applied to the clock (CP0) input
of a 4017 decade counter (IC4). In
the initial state, output 0 (pin 3) of
the counter is high, illuminating
LED1. The first pulse advances the
count and lights LED2, indicating
that the circuit is active and ready to
receive a handclap “command”.
Each time another pulse (clap)
is received before IC3’s timing period expires, the process repeats,
incrementing the counter by one.
When IC3’s timing period is allowed
to expire (ie, no claps have been
detected for 750ms), the output (pin
3) will go low, turning off transistors
Q3 & Q4.
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The rising
voltage on the
collector of transistor Q3 clocks
two J-K flipflops (IC5a & IC5b),
with the result at their Q outputs
dependent on the state of the O2O5 counter outputs. Considering
all the possible logic states of a
J-K flipflop, the “commands” will
therefore be:
• 2 claps: turn Device 1 on
• 3 claps: turn Device 1 off
• 4 claps: turn Device 2 on
• 5 claps: turn Device 2 off
Finally, the rising voltage on the
collector of Q4 resets the counter,
ready for the next clap sequence.
Note the addition of a 10nF capacitor between the reset input (pin 15)
and ground, which in conjunction
with the 10kW resistor adds a short
delay to the reset signal. This ensures that the counter is not reset
until after the J-K flipflops have
been clocked.
If desired, the circuit could easily
be expanded by adding more flip
flops and counters.
Li-Wen Yip,
Douglas, Qld.
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As you can see, we pay good money
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published in SILICON CHIP. But now there
are four more reasons to send in your
circuit idea. Each month, the best contri-
46 Silicon Chip
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December 2005 47
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
Diagnostic codes: help or hindrance?
Diagnostic codes are supposed to make faultfinding in colour TV sets easier – at least,
that’s the theory. But it doesn’t always turn
out that way in practice and experience still
counts when it comes the fixing problems.
TV manufacturers over the years
have had fleeting flirtations with making their products easier to service. In
the black and white TV days, valves
were easy to replace and this led to
the term “valve jockeys” being used to
describe technicians who just changed
valves.
When transistors came along, we
even had one or two sets that used
transistor sockets (in the early seventies, you could purchase cheap
Russian radios with every transistor
socketed – like Tektronix CROs). Then,
with colour, we had socketed ICs and
plug-in modules. German-made sets
also had easy diagnostic systems, with
LEDs monitoring critical voltages and
Items Covered This Month
• Philips 32FL2881/75R TV set
(FL2-G chassis)
• Sony KV-XA29M31 TV set
(BG3S chassis)
• Sony KV-AR21M30 TV set
(BX-1S chassis)
• Philips 32PW4523/79R TV set
(L01.1 chassis)
• Philips 25PT448A/75R TV set
(PV4 4.0AA chassis)
• Grundig T51-731 Text FFSTG/51C CUC TV set (7303
chassis, GCE5084)
• Sanyo model CP29AF2X(A)-55 TV set (FC3G229 chassis)
• Sanyo CP14SR1-50 TV set
(AC5-G chassis)
• Panasonic TX-76PW60A TV
set (EURO9S chassis)
48 Silicon Chip
flow charts to show which module to
replace.
With the advent of microprocessors,
On Screen Displays (OSD) and the I2C
bus, most sets now offer some sort of
error code system. The only trouble
is that most faults will not give an
OSD, so they then have a standby LED
flashing codes. The only difficulty
here is actually counting the number
of flashes and then comparing them
with the service manual.
The nature of faults has also changed
somewhat over the years. These days,
faults are often found in protection circuits, or there are software problems.
Of course, ICs are no longer socketed and more and more are surfacemount devices. Some manufacturers
actually expect you to replace these
but an increasing number are moving to board rather than component
level replacement. In fact, plasma TV
manufacturers generally offer nothing
smaller than board replacement and
insist you do not repair boards – not
that you would actually get a detailed
circuit diagram.
Philips sets
Philips invented the I2C bus and
has been using error codes the longest but they can be unreliable. I have
had quite a few Philips models with
FL1 and FL1.2 series chassis where
multiple codes randomly displayed on
switch-on and yet, when the set warms
up, then settle down with all functions
working properly. I haven’t been able
to get to the bottom of that one.
The A10 series chassis often display
error numbers (eg, 17, 23) which, although shown in the service manual,
have no meaning and certainly don’t
interfere with the working of the set.
One Philips set I looked at recently
– a 32FL2881/75R (FL2-G chassis) –
was dead. I had replaced the flyback
transformer 18 months earlier. This
set not only has OSD but also another
seven red LEDs internally, none of
which was giving an error code.
In this case, the horizontal output
transistor (Q7610, 2SC4288A) was
short circuit. Despite access being
rather difficult, I managed to replace
the transistor by completely removing
the entire chassis.
The set now came on and gave a
perfect picture, except it was a little
underscanned in all modes. I checked
the voltage at TP78 as +141V and it
was spot on. This presented me with
a dilemma – did the set need realignment or did it have an additional fault
that was going to kill more transistors
(eg, the tuning capacitors on the collector of Q7610)?
I had it running for over three
working days and it didn’t falter and
neither were there any error messages
in the SDM (self-diagnostic mode). In
the end, I told the client that I didn’t
know what had caused the failure and
that I could not guarantee it until more
work was done.
However, he wasn’t prepared to wait
any longer and didn’t want to spend
any more money on this 11-year old
TV, despite it having cost over $5000
new and this being only the second
time it had ever broken down. In fact,
he said that he really wanted to buy a
new plasma set.
Anyway, he picked it up, paying
only for the cost of the transistor and
one hour’s labour, but phoned four
days later to complain that it had died
again. And of course, he wanted it
fixed under warranty despite my earlier warning. You can’t win them all.
Another 2004 Philips I had was a
32PW4523/79R which wouldn’t turn
on and was making a clicking noise
inside. The label on the back said
L2K3 but it actually it looked like an
L01.1A chassis. Its diagnostic LED was
siliconchip.com.au
flashing twice, or so I thought – it was
hard to tell.
The clicking noise was coming from
the degaussing relay (1515). I began
by checking the B+ rail and it was
low and pulsating. However, when
I shorted out the base and emitter of
the line output transistor and hung a
100W globe on the collector, it came
up fully and the globe illuminated
without pulsating. In addition, the
relay stopped clicking.
This told me the fault was in the
line output stage.
After making sure the vertical
output IC was not dry jointed, I tried
desoldering it to see if that would affect
the protection circuit. It didn’t so I then
tried disconnecting all the secondary
circuits on the flyback transformer to
see if there were any shorts.
This revealed nothing untoward,
which threw suspicion onto the
transformer itself. I ordered a new
one (3128 138 21921) and fitting it
fixed the problem and confirmed my
diagnosis.
I checked the SDM afterwards to
find it had error codes 2 (horizontal
protection), 6 (I2C) and 10 (timer ID).
I can only conclude that the 6 and 10
errors referred to previous faults and
the errors hadn’t been cleared after
repair.
Not quite the same fault
Once I had two identical 1999 Sony
KV-XA29M31 (BG3S chassis) in the
workshop at the same time with what
siliconchip.com.au
appeared to be identical fault symptoms. They were both dead, with the
report that the red LED was flashing
twice.
The self-diagnostic function reports
error 2 as being OCP (over current protection) or OVP (over voltage protection). This can be due to the horizontal
output transistor Q511 being short
circuit, IC701 or IC503 being faulty,
or no -13V rail. In each case, the TV
resets itself into standby mode.
Access to these chassis isn’t easy, so
on the first set I went for the line of least
resistance and decided to change the
vertical output IC (IC503, TDA8172)
first after checking that Q511 was OK.
This turned out to be a good move, as
December 2005 49
Serviceman’s Log – continued
turns tester. As I suspected, it had
failed and replacing all three components completed the repair.
Dead Philips
this fixed the problem straight away.
I also resoldered the pins on the line
drive transformer (T501), as this sometimes causes premature failure of the
horizontal output transistor.
Moving onto the second set, I figured I would tackle it the same way
as the first one. However, it was soon
apparent that this was an entirely different fault.
Once again Q511 was OK but there
was no +135V going to it from D615.
Neither was there a short on the line.
In fact, it turned out to be a general
failure of the main switchmode power
supply.
A quick check soon showed that
R632 (0.1W) was open circuit, while
IC601 (STR-F6656) had gone short
circuit. Further checking then revealed that D610 had also gone short
circuit.
So why did the supply fail? I couldn’t
50 Silicon Chip
find anything specific, so I decided to
also change C623 100mF, which is about
the only electro in the primary of the
power supply – not that I could find
anything wrong with it! Anyway,
that fixed it but I couldn’t quite see
why the self-diagnosis was flashing
twice with this configuration.
Another Sony
The next Sony I had was flashing two times again. This set was a
2003 KV-AR221M30 using a BX-1S
chassis.
This time, the line output transistor
(Q805, 2SC5885) was short circuit and
the +135V feed resistor (R827) was
open circuit. I then checked transformer T800 (HDT) for dry joints but
found none.
So why did the line output transistor
fail? I removed the flyback transformer
(T801) and checked it with a shorted
A 1997 Philips 25PT448A/75R
PV4 4.0AA came in “dead”. Well, not
quite – the power supply wasn’t dead
and the front LED was flashing. VBAT
measured OK at +137V all the way to
the line output transistor (7448) and its
driver (7440) but there was obviously
no horizontal or vertical drive from
the Jungle IC (7200).
I could see that the vertical output IC
(7960) was dry-jointed on several pins,
so I resoldered it. Unfortunately, this
made no difference on switch on but I
still suspected it, figuring that it might
have been destroyed because of the dry
joints. Fitting a new one (TDA9302H)
restored picture and sound but only in
the bottom quarter of the screen.
The new IC was getting hot too, so
I checked the ±13V supply from the
flyback transformer with the CRO
and noticed that the negative rail had
a large amount of ripple on it. As a
result, I replaced the 470mF electrolytic capacitor (2472) but it made no
difference.
Next, I checked the voltages around
the IC and found that pin 1 was very
low. The twin vertical drive to the IC
comes out of the jungle IC (IC7200)
from pins 46 (+) and 47 (-). It is then
fed through an RC network before going to pins 1 and 7 respectively of the
vertical output IC (IC7960). A quick
check with the CRO showed plenty of
negative drive to pin 7 but virtually no
positive drive to pin 1.
It didn’t take long to find that pin 1
of IC7960 was short circuit to ground.
However, it wasn’t the IC that was at
fault. Instead, it was C2910 – a 470pF
surface-mounted chip capacitor – that
had gone short circuit.
Replacing it restored the set to full
working condition. Interestingly, there
is no error code for this.
Storm damaged TV
An unusual white-coloured TV was
recently brought in for repair. Years
ago, most 43cm sets were white in
colour but nowadays, they are all
silver.
The set in question was a 1996
51cm Grundig T51-731 Text FFSTG/51C using a CUC 7303 chassis
(GCE5084). It had gone dead after a
siliconchip.com.au
I am still meeting Sanyo TVs that have those 120kW
resistors that go high, particularly in the start-up circuitry of the power supply (eg, R620 & R621 in model
CP-29ST2-01, AC2-A29 chassis). This is a fairly common fault that’s help put the bread on my plate – and
do I need it!
I recently had a later Sanyo model CP-29AF2X(A)-55
using a FC3-G229 chassis come in. This had had a spectacular dummy spit for a set barely out of its egg, the
fault blowing the daylights out of eleven components in
the power supply: R613 330W, R614 22kW, R624 10W,
R632 0.27W, R633 0.33W, Q611 & Q625 2SC2274, Q612
2SA984, Q613 2SK3102, Q432 2SD2634YB and D610
(PC123 optocoupler).
The worrying aspect of such an explosion is why did
it happen? In this case, it wasn’t possible to figure this
out but it concerns me when I don’t know, as it almost
invites the fault to recur.
Kamikaze fly lava
A kamikaze fly lava chose to be born (and die) inside
a brand new Sanyo TV, model CP14SR1-50 AC5-G chassis. Unfortunately, he, she or it selected the switchmode
power supply FET and killed the set by turning the power
supply into a pile of what flies like best.
This suicide terrorist only managed to blow eight
components – R612 10W, R613 1W, R617 68kW, Q613
2SK2647, Q614 2SA984, Q432 2SD2634, D610 PC123
siliconchip.com.au
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storm but ironically, the only thing that had failed was
the mains fuse.
Once the set was running again, I had to tune in the
stations, which was rather tricky. You definitely need
the instruction book and the remote control (Telepilot
711, now substituted by a TP715/TP750C). In fact, there
are only three controls in total on this set, including the
power switch!
To do the tuning via the remote, you have to press “i”
and then OK to get into a rather daunting tuning menu.
However, with perseverance and the book, I eventually
cracked it (in fact, auto tuning is easier and you do that
by pressing “PC/AUX” for four seconds and then “OK”).
This revealed further problems. I have a good antenna
and reception at my workshop is good but the picture
on this set was just slightly snowy. As a result, I decided
to give the RF AGC (automatic gain control) a nudge to
see if this would improve matters.
To get into the Service Menu, you press “i” and switch
the set on with the main power switch. The AGC was
set at 29 but increasing or decreasing this value made
no difference to the picture and it was beginning to look
like the tuner (Part No. 29504 3010100) might be faulty.
As a result, I took it out, fully anticipating that a new
one would have to be fitted (in the old days, you could
get the tuner fixed by taking it to a tuner specialist but
unfortunately, that’s no longer the case).
Anyway, I took a quick look inside the tuner to see if
anything was obviously faulty and was surprised to see
that the centre pin of the antenna socket to the tuner PC
board had disappeared – it had vaporised completely. I
fitted a small wire link and reassembled the set and that
finally fixed the problem.
December 2005 51
Serviceman’s Log – continued
and D611 ISS133 – but at least this
time we knew what the cause was. I
don’t think any anti-terrorist laws will
stop this one either!
When changing the horizontal
output transistor (Q432) in this set, it
is important to check that the jungle
IC201 is a QXXAVB889- - - M. If it’s
not, you should fit a CP14SR1MK
modification kit.
In any event, check that C351 is a
47mF 16V electrolytic and that C661 is
10mF 16V and replace C501 (1000mF
35V), otherwise you might have more
unexplained failures of the horizontal
output transistor.
Shrunken widescreen
A brand new wide-screen Panasonic
TX-76PW60A (EURO9S chassis) TV
was brought in to the workshop under
warranty. The fault was that there was
very little width or pincushion correction and there were vertical shaded
lines spaced regularly across the
picture, which faded off completely
within a minute or two.
Initially, I felt that this was going to
be a simple problem in the east-west
correction circuits. When I got the
back off, there was a small plug-in
module (DF) on the righthand side
which is supported by a metal bracket.
52 Silicon Chip
This bracket and the module were
severely bent, so it looked like this
was the problem. However, when I
had removed the module, I found I
could straighten it and no part of the
PC board’s circuitry had been compromised or damaged. Besides which, it
didn’t have much to do with the eastwest circuitry.
Next, I located the circuit I really
wanted – ie, transistor Q703 (a surfacemounted 2SK2231) and the diodes
inside D580 on the D Board. These
measured OK, as did R702 (1W) and
there was about 40V on the drain. I
also checked that there was a clean,
healthy parabola on the drain and for
a square-wave pulse coming into this
circuit from the A Board.
While I had the oscilloscope out,
I also checked the line pulses on the
collector of the horizontal output transistor (Q551, 2SC5905). These were
perfectly clean but despite this, Q551
was getting very hot, as were resistors
R705 and R706 (150W) near Q703.
Unfortunately, by the time I got
the set into the service mode (for less
adjustments), the picture had faded
off completely. As a result, I was unable to determine whether the digital
control system on the A Board was
working or not.
I have had cases where
the microprocessor
has caused these
symptoms but as the
A Board is worth
around $750, we
naturally we didn’t
have one on hand to
substitute.
Despite the fact that
it would appear to be a
fairly obvious fault with
simple circuits to troubleshoot, I was initially
clueless (most people
would assert that this is
indeed my normal state).
Naturally, I checked
almost every component in and around the
circuit, including D559
and D560, but without
result.
I also carefully
checked the coils in the
east-west circuit – L701
220mH and L704 1.8mH.
These measured correctly on my inductance meter but I went further in
case the insulation was breaking down
under load. I had noticed that L582
was also a 220mH unit, so I decided
to swap it and L701 over.
Interestingly, these two coils had
different part numbers even though
they have the same inductance. What’s
more, the gauge and type of wiring
differed between them. In particular,
one has a solid copper wire, while the
other uses multi-stranded wire. Anyway, to satisfy my curiosity, I swapped
them over but it made absolutely no
difference.
In the end, it was luck that solved
the puzzle. After swapping the coils,
I noticed one nearby capacitor (C582,
470nF 400V) with what looked like a
small lump of clear varnish on it. Of
course, a small deformity like this is
not really unusual in a brown polyester capacitor – after all, it’s what’s on
the inside that counts and looks aren’t
really a concern.
Anyway, because I was out of ideas
and there wasn’t anything else to do, I
decided to remove this capacitor and
take a closer look. And, as it turned
out, it wasn’t a lump of varnish at all
but was instead a lump of material that
had been pushed out of a crack in the
capacitor’s body.
A new one soon restored the set to
SC
normal operation.
siliconchip.com.au
WELLINGTON (NZ)
has moved to:
Digital Handheld Anemometer
A handy tool for the sailor or
windsurfer or the everyday
enthusiast. Measure the speed of
wind in mph, km/h, m/s or knots,
dispalyed on an LED display with a
Beauford wind scale bar graph.
Cat. QM-1640
$
95
79.
10 Million Candle Power Spotlight
Features a super powerful
12V 100 Watt Halogen
globe. A switch for dim
lighting to conserve power
and twin fluorescent
globes for reading or as a
work light. The spotlight is
powered by a rechargeable
12V 7Ah battery that can be
charged either at home or in the car.
Cat. ST-3308
95
•Replacement Globe: SL-3223 $12.95 $
79.
Smart Card Programmer Kit
Ref: Silicon Chip July 03
Program both the microcontroller
and EEPROM in the popular Gold,
Silver and Emerald wafer cards.
Cards used need to conform to ISO7816 standards, which includes ones
sold by Jaycar. Powered by 9-12VDC
plugpack (use MP-3030) or 9V
battery. Instructions outline software requirements
that are freely available on the Internet. Kit supplied
with PCB, wafer card socket and all electronic
components. PCB measures: 141 x 101mm
Jaycar cannot accept responsibility for the
operation of this device, its related software,
or its potential to be used in relation
Cat. KC-5361
to illegal copying of Smart Cards in
$
95
Digital Cable T.V. set top boxes.
49.
Gold Wafer Card
This is a multi-chip 'smart card'
based on the PIC 16F84A and is
coupled with a 24LC16B
EEPROM, and compatible with
most reader/programmer units
available
Marine Speakers
Ordinary car speakers will not
last in a marine environment and
you should install these quality
drivers to enjoy great sounding
speakers that will last the distance.
4" Marine Speaker Cat. CS-2390
$
95
2 way / 20WRMS
49.
Cat. ZZ-8800
$
95
7.
264-272
Taranaki St
(Upper)
Wellington
Phone:
(04) 801 9005
Universal High Energy Ignition
New and Improved
Ref: SC June 98
A high energy 0.9ms
spark burns fuel faster
and more efficiently to
give you more power!
Includes PCB, case
and all electronic
components.
Now with
PIC
Ref: Silicon Chip December 05
Need people to take a number
when waiting to be served?
This electronic signaling
device has digits 75mm high,
each using 28 high intensity
red LEDs. The numbers display
from 00 to 99 is incremented by
pressing a button on the separate
small control box. The
annunciator features a built
in piezo buzzer to produce a
short 'beep' each time the
display is updated. Kit
includes: PCB, Case and all
electronic components.
Power: Regulated 12VDC
Cat. KC-5420
$
95
59.
iPod Stereo Amplified
Speakers with Remote
Cat. KC-5419
$
95
94.
Dual Battery Isolator
This unit will direct alternator
charge current to your main
and auxiliary battery when
the engine is running. When
you are stationary and
drawing battery power
(for fridges etc), the unit
will isolate one battery before
both batteries go flat, enabling
you to start your vehicle the
next morning.
Exclusive to
Jaycar
Annunciator Kit
An active speaker system for iPods,
iPod Minis and Nano. The unit comes
in a stylish and streamline designed
housing and would look great on a desk
or even wall mounted. Comes with
interchangeable cradles to suit any iPod, it has a
protective clear front lid and an Infrared iPod
remote controller which controls the volume and
the song selection. It also has an
Cat. XC-5180
auxiliary input for non-iPod devices.
$
00
•iPod not included
149.
See our range of iPod accessories on page 2
Can Sized 140W Inverter
Cat. MB-3670
$
95
99.
HOORAY - OUR GORE HILL
STORE HAS MOVED BACK TO
188 Pacific Hwy
(Cnr Bellevue Ave)
St. Leonards
Ph: 9439 4799 Open 7 days
Stand out from the crowd
at the next 4WD
meeting. We've all had
the experience with using
unmounted inverters sliding
around - especially in a moving
vehicle, but utilising the existing drink
holders in cars, this inverter is held in
place and doesn't need any modifications
to vehicles. Featuring a 140W power
output, this unit has the capability
to run laptop computers and other
equipment.
Cat. MI-5120
$
95
69.
Portable Digital Video Camera and Media Player
With 128MB Memory this is smaller than an average sized
wallet. The unit comes with a large 2.5 inch TFT LCD
screen and a 128MB internal storage space.
Includes
Features Include
•MP4 Player - Play ASF format video
Software
•Still Camera & Video Camera - 3 Mega Pixels
•CMOS Sensor/2.5 inch TFT LCD
•Built-in 128MB flash
•MP3 Player - built-in speaker & earphones included
•Digital Photo Album - store JPG format photos
•Games
Cat. QC-3232
$
00
399.
6" Marine Speaker Cat. CS-2392
2 way / 40 WRMS
$
95
59.
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
1
Mini Digital Video Camera
A digital camera for under $200!
This easy to use camera
fits in the palm of your
hand. The recorded
video can be
transferred to a
computer for editing or
simply viewed directly
on any TV
with AV
inputs.
Buy the
Features
Mini Digital Camera
include a 3.1 Megapixel
and
receive
a 256MB
software resolution for
SD Card for $25.
stills, 1.5" colour LCD
Save $23.95!
screen, 5 layer glass lens;
32MB internal memory, SD/MMC
expansion slot, 4 x digital
Cat. QC-3230
SAVE
zoom, internal microphone
$
00
$20
& lots more! Was $199.00
Singing Star Handheld
Karaoke Player
Attach the handheld player to
your TV with the cable supplied and
you'll be singing like a professional in
no time! Already supplied with a 10
song cartridge and with various audio
features you'll be able to sing along to
your favourite tunes in next
to no time. Two
Additional
cartridges are
song cartridges
included with
available
the Singing Star
Cat. GT-3190
$14.95ea
$
95
Karaoke Player.
49.
Portable USB MP3 Player
USB Internet Phone
Play music from any
USB Flash Disk.
The system looks like a pair of classy
portable speakers but features an in-built MP3
decoder that will play MP3 files straight from any
Flash Disk. The speakers are small, light, and stylish
and can go just about anywhere. The system also
incorporates an external input so you can play other
devices. Operates on 9 VDC, mains Cat. XC-5161
plug pack is included.
$
95
49.
89.
USB Data Storage Bridge
Make data transfer a
breeze. Cameras, MP3
players or Recording
devices always get full at
some point, especially at
the most inopportune
times. This device allows
for easy movement of files
from one unit to another.
USB 2.0 Surround Sound
Simulator for Headphones
Cat. XC-4962
$
95
59.
Pedometer with 128MB MP3 Player
Time flies when you're exercising!
Built in MP3 player stores up
SAVE
to two hours
$20
of music.
Includes
calorie
counting,
distance
monitor as well
as a clock. Supplied with USB
Cat. GE-4012
$
95
interface cables & earphones.
Size: 68(L) x 39(W) x 22.5(H)mm.
Was $119.95
99.
PSP®
Memory
Cards
Frustrated with the tiny
32MB card that came with
your PSP®? Take full
advantage of this awesome
piece of hardware! With a
512MB card you can hold
around 8 hours of MP3 audio
or 2 hours of H.264/MPEG4
video for playback on your
Playstation Portable®!
DOUBLE THAT ON A 1GB
CARD NOT TO MENTION
THE 2GB VERSION
2
iPod A/V Cable
Some iPods now feature
colour screens and can display
photos on a TV. Unfortunately, no
cable is supplied with the player.
This cable will connect to the colour
iPods which support the photo
feature and allow viewing on a TV or
to a VCR/DVD recorder.
Cat. XC-4801
$
95
124.
1GB Card
Cat. XC-4802
$
00
229.
2GB Card
Cat. XC-4803
$
00
599.
19.
iPod USB Data Cable
Attention PC users! A replacement cable for a
lost or broken iPod data cable. Works with all iPods
that use the 30 pin Apple connector. Commonly
Cat. WC-7692
used on Windows computers.
$
95
SAVE
$5
Add a new dimension to
your gaming!
This tiny device takes your
regular stereo signal and
transforms it into simulated
surround sound. It makes your
games, CDs, and DVDs come to life. Also has a
graphic equaliser and room simulation. Cat. XC-4882
$
95
Measures 30(W) x 80(L) x 20(T)mm.
Was $29.95
24.
Attention Mac users!
A replacement cable for a lost or
broken iPod data cable. Works
with iPods that use the 30 pin
Apple connector. Commonly
used on Macintosh computers.
14.
14.
Very useful! Charge and update
your iPod easily with this cradle. It
will charge the battery and you can
connect the USB or Firewire
cable to update your
playlists etc. Cat. XC-4930
SAVE
95
Was $29.95 $
$5
24.
iPod not
included
Portable iPod / MP3 Player
Dock and Speakers
Featuring 1.5" micro
speakers, & an internal
amplifier, they sound
great. It all folds up to a
neat 286g package when
not in use.
Powered by 4 x AAA
batteries not included.
•iPod not included.
Was $89.95
SAVE
$20
Cat. XC-5163
$
95
69.
iPod Car Charger
Charge on the go! Connects
to your car's cigarette lighter
socket to charge your iPod via
the Apple 30 pin connector.
Great for travellers.
Wireless Internet Antenna
Cat. WC-7690
$
95
iPod Data / Charging Cradle & Cables
Having trouble
Cat. MB-3650
getting unwired?
modem
$
95
This wireless modem
not
included
antenna replaces the
existing 'rabbit ear'
In-Car iPod Charger and
on your wireless
Modulator Cradle
broadband modem
and boosts the
A complete car kit.
signal to improve
Hold your iPod and
coverage. It can also
charge it at the same
improve performance
time. Includes a built-in
in difficult areas. The
Cat. AR-3274 modulator to broadcast the
Cat. AR-3117
antenna can be mounted
$
95 music to your car stereo FM radio.
$
95
inside the house or in a protected
outside location for optimum reception. Supplied
Digital TV Tuner for Cars
with N type to MCX lead & mounting bracket.
•Size 135(W) x 160(H) x 30(D)mm
Keep the kids
entertained with this
USB 2.0 Multimedia Speaker Pair
affordable in-car digital
These trendy two
TV tuner. The receiver
channel speakers
will give good
plug into your
performance in strong
computer's USB port.
signal areas and is
No need for messy
ideal for city driving.
cabling or external power
Cat. XC-4826
supplies like conventional
Cat. XC-5162
$
00
multimedia speakers.
$
95
129.
512MB Card
Cat. WC-7694
$
95
iPod Firewire Data Cable
179.
Save on long distance and
international telephone calls
with this handy USB phone!
Compatible with voice over
internet protocol systems such
as 'Skype ®' but users can still
use the USB phone as an
audio in/out device with voice
communication software.
Cat. XC-4964
$
95
Grab the latest iPod
accessories this Christmas
34.
19.
89.
199.
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
2.4GHz Wireless Audio Video Senders
3 Piece Surround Sound Add - On
Watch cable TV all over the house!
Send a signal from a
DVD player, settop box etc., to
another room,
without the use of any
cables! You can use as many receivers as you like,
without degrading signal quality. Each unit comes
supplied with stereo audio and video transmitter and
receiver, mains plugpacks & RCA cables. Transmission
range is up to 100m, but depends on the type of
construction materials used. Cat. AR-1832
$
95
Enjoy the
surround sound
experience.
The centre
SAVE
speaker contains
$60
a screened 4" mid / woofer & 2" tweeter
with a 6 ohm impedance. The two rear Cat. CS-2465
speakers contain a 4" full range speaker $
95
with a 4 ohm impedance.Was $99.95
Extra receiver to suit
Add a new dimension to your
home theatre! It uses a well
designed bass reflex enclosure
for the best performance.
Measures 375(W) x 510(H) x
410(D)mm.
Cat. CS-2456
$
00
Was $459.00
69.
Cat. AR-1833
$
95
49.
Cat. AR-1833
AV Sender but with Remote Control Extender
With the addition of an IR
remote control repeater you
can change the channel of
the source device
Cat. AR-1830
etc from the
$
95
other room.
12" 150WRMS Powered
Subwoofer
399.
Take the cinema screen
with you! Enjoy private
viewing of your
TV/DVD/VCR or games
console with these
lightweight goggles. So
portable they can be used in
a car to enjoy DVD player
entertainment, or connect
it to a video games console such as PLAYSTATION,
XBOX, etc. Supplied with cables & power adaptor.
800 x 225 (180,000) pixel resolution.
Was $399.00
Cat. QM-3790
SAVE
$
00
$100
Cat. AR-1831
$
95
69.
LCD Virtual Goggles Lithium Ion Battery
SAVE
$60
Kevlar Cone
Coaxial Speakers
Four Way RF
Distribution Amplifier
Fantastic quality!
This new range of coaxial speakers offer high
performance and great looks. They retain the large
super tweeter that made last year’s range great, but
the new Kevlar cones take them into a realm of
their own. Check out our catalogue on page 229 or
our website for full details.
Boost your TV signals by
4.5dB and distribute
them to as many as four
TVs, videos, or other
equipment without any Cat. LT-3244
$
95
loss of signal quality.
59.
4" Kevlar 2 Way
•40WRMS power
•86.5dB sensitivity
Plasma Screen Bracket
5" Kevlar 2 Way
This heavy duty wall mounted
bracket is suitable for mounting
plasma screens of up to 75kg. In
situations where tilting is required
such as in gyms, clubs and bars,
the bracket is able to tilt up to 20
degrees. Specifically designed
for 26" to 63" flat screen monitors
& TVs the bracket allows the Cat. CW-2816
screen to be mounted a mere $
95
10.1cm away from the wall.
Spare battery (7.2V) for the
LCD Virtual Goggles
(QM-3790) shown Cat. QM-3791
above.
$
95
34.
•50WRMS power
•89.5dB sensitivity
Cat.
CS-2320
•25WRMS power handling.
•88dB sensitivity. CS-2330
Cat.
CS-2322
6" 2 Way
•35WRMS power handling.
•89dB sensitivity. CS-2334
119.
95
•45WRMS power handling.
•90dB sensitivity. CS-2336
49.95
$
CAR AMPLIFIERS
Composite Video to VGA Converter
Car audio enthusiasts
please note!
This massive capacitor will help
stabilise the voltage levels in a high
power stereo installation. A voltage
display keeps you informed of
voltage levels, and mounting
hardware is included.
Cat. RU-6750
$
95
99.
Our new range features amps that have increased power and retain the best
value for money in the market. Tell us if we're wrong!
4 x 100WRMS
4 x 130WRMS <at> 4Ω
4 x 190WRMS <at> 2Ω
2 x 380WRMS <at> 4Ω
2 x 80WRMS
2 x 80WRMS <at> 4Ω
2 x 100WRMS <at> 2Ω
1 x 200WRMS <at> 4Ω
Cat. AA-0420
$
95
4 x 50WRMS
4 x 50WRMS <at> 4Ω
4 x 80WRMS <at> 2Ω
2 x 160WRMS <at> 4Ω
169.
2 x 150WRMS
2 x 150WRMS <at> 4Ω
2 x 255WRMS <at> 2Ω
1 x 500WRMS <at> 4Ω
Cat. AA-0424
$
95
249.
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
Cat. AA-0426
$
95
299.
199.
Class D 800WRMS
1 x 400WRMS <at> 4Ω
1 x 700WRMS <at> 2Ω
1 x 820WRMS <at> 1Ω
Award winning
amplifier!
Cat. AA-0428
$
00
Cat. AA-0422
$
95
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
39.95
$
6" x 9" 5 Way
Cat.
•80WRMS power CS-2328
$
•93.5dB sensitivity 139.95
99.
29.95
$
109.95
$
6" x 9" 2 Way
This neat device converts all region video
signals into a non-interlaced VGA signal for
monitors. With features such as, an on
screen display and a
slim line remote
control, this
converter box is
user friendly and
easily connected to your PC, video
Cat. XC-4872
source, and video game consoles
$
95
without any software installation.
24.95
$
•30WRMS power handling.
•88dB sensitivity. CS-2332
99.95
$
$
4" 2 Way
5" 2 Way
Cat.
6.5" Kevlar 2 Way CS-2324
•75WRMS power
•91.3dB sensitivity
Coaxial Speakers
This new range of budget coaxial car speakers
offer great sound and value for money.
They have low-profile magnets for versatile
mounting, and spoke grill covers for show.
149.
1 Farad 20V Capacitor
with Voltage Display
299.
Buy any of our SPLITS, plus an AMPLIFIER of your
choice and SAVE 25% off SPEAKER & POWER CABLE
purchased at the same time! *Does not apply to already discounted cable
89.
Extra receiver to suit
Cat. AR-1831
39.
LCD Virtual Goggles
399.
3
Choke A Chook
40 Channel UHF CB Band Transceiver
Relieve stress with a bit of
violence!
This annoying chicken dances
around and squawks. Funny for
about one second! Grab him by
the throat and he screams and
gags. Funny forever! (not
recommended for children)
•Approx 300mm tall.
Cat. GT-3095
•Requires 4 x AA
$
95
batteries (not incl)
Cheap short distance
communication!
They operate up to 5km in an open
field, or 1km in the city. Lots of
accessories available, see our
website for details.
Was $39.95
or 2 for
29.
34.
$
Go-Ballistic - An Exciting Target Game
The aim of the game is to
fire the ball through the
centre "Bullseye" and
score points.
The level of excitement is
increased by the inbuilt
voice chip that urges you
on to greater heights.
39.
95
Was
$49.95
SAVE
$5
39.95
$
Novelty Pocket Lie Detector
Was $99.00
Get to the truth fast with this handy
little lie detector. Ask your suspect
a question and if their answer is
not truthful, the machine will
know and give a low score, now
you can find out if your fishing
buddies are really telling the truth or if
Cat. GT-3060
your boyfriend truly does think your
$
95
bum looks OK in those jeans.
29.
Remote Control Sailing Ship
This well
constructed
1:420 scale R.C
model of the
19th century
'Cutty Sark' is a
must for
collectors and
boating
enthusiast. With
a five metre
remote control range and efficient use
of battery power, this product will
guarantee hours of fun for the
Cat. GT-3415
whole family .
$
95
•Size: 205 x 125mm
39.
SAVE
$10
A touch of luxury!
Wash away the cares of the
day - no matter how far from
civilisation you are! The
camping shower allows you
to take a shower wherever
you are. Powered by your
vehicles 12V battery.
Novelty Race Shock
Wire Game
This is a game
of skill and speed.
Featuring interactive lights
and the sounds of a race car
speedway with a raucous
crowd encouraging you
along. Whoever is the last to
complete the lap will
receive a mild electric shock.
If you're clumsy and make
contact with the wire you
too will receive a shock. An ideal
gift for those race car fans.
89.
The Amazing Flygun!
Keep the kids entertained!
The Amazing
Flygun is a safe,
fun, and effective
method of killing
flies and
mosquitoes. Launch
the spring powered swatter at
your target! It is safe, fun and
really does work!
SAFE
Cat. YS-5545
FOR AGES 8
$
95
AND UP
7.
21 LED Hand Torch
This durable torch may be
small but it makes up for its size
in the light output. It contains 21 high
intensity LEDs and features a rigid body
which makes it easy to grip and incorporates
a twist on/off switch.
Cat. ST-3394
4 x AAA batteries (not included)
$
95
Quick as you can
Take the challenge with
2- 4 players to see who has
the best reactions and who is a
slow coach! It’s a game of
skill, frustration, and is sure
to bring out your competitive
edge! Watch carefully when the red light
changes to green if you’re the fastest off
the mark, music will be played and the
other contestants will lose one of
Cat. GH-1107
$
95
their three lives.
39.
Remote Controlled High Speed
Demolition Derby Jeep
Personal Fans with Water Spray
3.95
$
This is one tough cookie! Smash it, crash it
and it still comes back for more. Every panel on
the car is detachable and can miss-align, fly open
or even come off in a crash. Suitable
for ages 10 up. Red model
Cat. GT-3202
also available GT-3200
$
95
•Features a regenerate button
Cat. GH-1072
7.95
59.
$
Sea Scooter - Summer Family Fun
19.95
$
CAMPING DEAL
• Collapsible bucket
• Gear Station
• Waterproof Lantern
• Shower
COMPLETE CAMPING PACKAGE
All for $45
SAVE OVER $12
See in-store for details
39.95
$
39.
Cat. GH-1070
Cat. YS-2800
Cat. GH-1105
Novelty Reaction Game
Keep your cool!
These fans have a water
spray to use on those
scorching summer days.
Small size GH-1070
Large size GH-1072
12V Camping Shower
SAVE
$10
New Games
1.5W High Powered
UHF CB Transceiver
Massive range!
This high-quality light-weight
UHF transceiver is ideal for
use in many professional
and leisure activities. Up to
8k working range with a hi/lo
setting to
Cat. DC-1040
conserve
$
00
power.
Cat. GT-3062
4
A fascinating gift.
The electromagnetic
levitating globe floats in thin
air and seems to defy the
laws of
Cat. GG-2170
gravity.
$
95
$59.95
Cat. DC-1010
Suspended World Globe
with Pen & Pen Holder
Here's a great water scooter that's been designed specifically
for family fun in the pool, lake or protected beaches. The
powerful motor can reach a maximum speed of 3km/h and is
powered by a rechargeable battery which gives around 40 - 60
mins running time. It's lightweight enough to carry with one
hand and portability is guaranteed by the included
sports carry bag - perfect for the kids to take on
your next riverside picnic. It's easy to manoeuvre
and control with comfortable grip handlebars and
can even be used for shallow snorkelling.
•Powered by 12V 7AH battery (included) Cat. GG-2350
•Up to 1 hour's intermittent use time or
$
00
40 min continuous •Thrust: 5kgf
Check this out!!!
249.
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
PA R T Y LI G H T I N G - C E LE B R AT E T H E H O LI DAY S
Fog Machine
Great for parties!
It emits a harmless fog that can
help create great lighting
effects, mystical low lying fog,
and more. 240VAC mains Cat. AF-1210
powered. Requires
$
95
Cat. AF-1212 fog juice.
Mini Strobe Light
99.
1L Fog Juice
Buy a Fog
machine &
receive the
Fog Juice
FREE*
Cat. AF-1212
Normally
$11.95
Party Speakers
Great for parties!
Features a variable flash
rate up to 10Hz, and is
mains powered. Uses a
Xenon flash tube, and
measures 85(W) x 50(H)
x 125(D)mm.
Was $29.95
SAVE
Get your party pumpin' with the great
party speakers. Strong enough to
Cat. CS-2512
handle a massive
$
00
100 watts RMS.
139.
159.
Clip Lights
No electrician required.
Customise the length and effects
of your Christmas lights with these
low voltage clip lights. They are
waterproof and are ideal to hang
through trees, pergolas or around
Or buy a
your Christmas tree. Bulb spacing is
100 metre
adjustable & each bulb draws 40mA.
roll for
Cat. SL-2810
$140
Replacement globes. Pk of ten: SL-2814
Optional accessories
Cat. SL-2810
Coloured caps Pk 25: SL-2812
$
Reflector Caps Pk 20: SL-2816
1.75 /m
19.
Proximity Security Beeper
Cat. GG-2375
29.95
$
Ideal for parties, shop
fronts or to add to your
Christmas cheer.
Its10 metres long and
includes a controller to
either have the lights on
continuously, flashing,
chasing or fading.
Cat. SL-2820
39.95
$
Simple but effective!
When music is playing, it
switches in time with it.
There are no modulation
controls, but it works quite well
indeed. It uses 240V 60W ES reflector lamps,
supplied with a red, yellow, green,
Cat. SL-2942
and blue globe. Check out our
$
95
website for replacements.
Cat. ST-3880
79.95
$
Cat. ST-3882
$
139.
95
Illuminate in style!
Great for illuminating paths, driveways, and
even floors because they mount completely
flush. Mains powered, they measure 27(H) x
30(Dia)mm. Expand up to 10 additional lights.
ST-3887 4 pcs white pack
Cat. ST-3887
Cat. ST-3885/6
ST-3885 White
$
95
$
95
ST-3886 Blue
89.
19.
Both Colours
19.95
$
Cat. GH-1532
49.95
$
Create a party atmosphere or
add charm to an intimate
setting with these
environmentally friendly lights.
Made from water resistant clear
plastic, they feature a solar panel
and an extra bright Light Emitting
Diode (LED). Charge them up in sunlight for
at least 12 hours and enjoy up to 24 hours
of continuous use. They have a light sensor
so they will turn on in the dark. The solar
ball looks fantastic hung from the ceiling or
trees, you can even float them in the pool or pond.
ST-3120 Solar Ball red
$24.95 each or
ST-3122 Solar Ball blue
BUY 3 FOR $60
ST-3124 Solar Ball white
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
This palm sized handheld
game boasts exciting
sound effects and features
3 playing modes of Texas
Holdem.
Was $39.95
Cat. GT-3577
29.95
$
SAVE
$10
200 Piece Clay Poker Chips
This flat panel disk produces an
amazing display of blue light which
responds to your touch, voice or music.
Comes with a removable stand & can be
wall mounted. Mains power adaptor
included.•254mm/10" (dia.)
•6” version also available GH-1530 $39.95
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
69.
3 in 1 Poker
Recessed Colour LED Lights
LED Solar Balls
Fun and funky!
Mount them in
laminate or
wooden floors, walls, or even ceilings for great
mood lighting. They can be changed from red, blue,
or green, auto changing or static. Supplied with
controller and mains plugpack. Lights measure
80(Dia) x 6(H)•mm. •6mm protruding from mounting
Two packs available:
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
4 Way Light Chaser with
Sound Modulator
10" Plasma Disk
Colour Master Colour Changing
LED Lighting Kits
Includes 8 x round LED fitting,
22.5m of cable, and controller.
79.
Ice Rope Light
They are 3U 26 Watt, which is
equivalent to a normal 120 watt
incandescent globe. Ideal for use
in party and entertainment areas.
Available in two colours
Red Fluro: SL-3153
Blue Fluro: SL-3155
Put a smile on someone’s
dial! Just press the remote
control for one of six amusing
giggles to get
Cat. GH-1085
everyone
$
95
laughing.
Eight Light Pack
Super bright!
This features a super
bright 75W flash tube and
can be timed with music
or independently.
Cat. SL-2999
$
95
Designed for
domestic use only
Super Bright Fluoro Tubes!
Remote Controlled Giggle Machine
Includes 4 x round LED fittings,
12.5m of cable, and controller.
24.95
$
44.
SAVE
The big daddy of
$20
party sound
•15" bass driver
Cat. CS-2515
•120 Watts RMS Power
00
•Size 740 x 505 x 350mm $
Was $179.00
69.95
$
PAR36 Spotlight with Colour Wheel & Motor 75W Strobe Light
15" - 120W RMS
Four Light Pack
Cat. SL-2990
$5
Cat. SL-2978
Create your own dance party atmosphere!
Get your party started the right way with some
creative lighting to help set the mood.
Just add music and you’re set! All
mains powered. Kit contains:
•20cm mirror ball.
•1RPM mirror ball motor.
•PAR36 spotlight. •PAR36 globe.
•4 x coloured gels for PAR36.
Set the mood!
The advanced screw-cap globe holder
design, is much better than the older spring-clip
style. The 245mm five-colour wheel and
motor is easily mounted.
•Globe not included.
Cat. SL-2963
Use SL-2964
$
95
12" - 100W RMS
Never lose valuables again!
The Proximity transmitter
attaches to your valuables,
and you keep the receiver in
your pocket. If you walk away
from the transmitter, it will beep,
reminding you to grab your
possessions.
Disco Party Light Set
A genuine 11.5
grams each!
When you hold
them you can
really feel how
good the quality is.
Contains four sets
of 25 black, blue,
red and white chips.
Chip size: 40(dia)
x3(H)mm
Was
$79.95
SAVE
$20
Cat. GT-3574
59.95
$
Automatic Card Shuffler
Finish off the home
casino with flair!
Place your cards
evenly in the 2
feeder trays. With
a light press of a
button, your cards
are shuffled and you're
ready to deal.
•Uses 4 x AA batteries
not included
•Size 230(L) x 112(W)
x 90(H)mm
Was $19.95
SAVE
$5
Cat. GT-3370
14.95
$
5
Protect your home and family
Fake Alarm Kit
More than 300,000 homes were entered
with these quick and simple
No one will know that you
ILLEGALLY in Australia & New Zealand last Year*
DIY Security systems
don't have the full system.
5" B&W Surveillance System *(ABS 45100) Looks like the real thing and
Four Zone Security Alarm System
(NZ statistics) the bad guys will move on to
Quick and simple!
with Simple Two Wire Hookup
an easier target.
The alarm is so simple to set up that DIY
enthusiasts will love it!
All system
components
(sensors, sirens)
are connected
to the control
unit via a
two-core
non-polar
flat wire.
The unit has a built-in keypad with status LED and
three modes or operation (Home, Out, Off).
Supplied with: •Main control unit •Two PIRs
•Four Door or Window contact reed switch
•External Siren
Cat. LA-5475
•240VAC Adaptor
$
00
•50m two-core flat wire and clips
•Screw/wall plug packs
•Main unit: 160(H) x185(W) x35(D)mm
•Extra PIR to suit LA-5476 $29.95
199.
3 Zone Wireless Home Alarm
Ideal for tenants!
The system is supplied with
a control panel equipped
with keypad, and a
built-in siren. It
also comes
with a
wireless PIR,
reed switch, and panic button which operate within a
50m range. There are also provisions for hard-wired
expansion if desired.
Cat. LA-5125
See our catalogue or website
$
00
for full specifications.
199.
Consisting of a 5" B&W
surveillance
monitor,
two
cameras, and
two
dummy
cameras, you
can keep an eye on your premises.
The real cameras simply plug in with
Cat. QC-3446
their 10m lead, and the dummy
$
00
cameras look identical.
149.
Shed / Garage / Boat Alarm
Very affordable!
The garage or shed can often be
neglected when it comes to security,
but often there is valuable machinery
and tools inside. This unit consists of a
reed switch for the main door,
and a PIR for general
protection. Keyfob arm / disarm.
Includes mains plugpack, 10m cable, Cat. LA-5400
$
95
and a battery backup option.
49.
Downlight Style CCD Colour Camera
This 1/3” Sharp CCD camera
incorporates a downright holder
for flush mounting on any
ceiling or flat surface. A perfect
alternative to conventional Dome
type cameras. It provides 0 - 90
degree adjustable pivoting camera
head for securing that perfect angle.
Holder is finished
Cat. QC-3503
$
95
in polished metal giving a classy
and stylish look.
249.
UPGRADE YOUR CCTV SYSTEM
2.4GHz 4 Channel Wireless USB Receiver
Surveillance on your computer!
This tiny four channel receiver takes the pain out of
surveillance.Just plug it into your PC’s USB port
and you’re set. You
can view cameras on the
PC, with a composite
option for a TV or monitor
too. There is a host
of on-board functions
such as email alert
on motion detection,
and a whole lot more. See page
313 of our 2005 catalogue for more info. Cat. QC-3597
$
95
USB Pan / Tilt PC Camera with
Remote Access
249.
This is one of the most useful PC based
cameras we have seen!
It has full functionality as a pan/tilt camera, with
motion controlled via the serial port! You can log onto
a preset IP address, and actually take control of the
pan/tilt functions. Software and drivers are
supplied on CD-ROM, and it is compatible
with Windows 98,SE,ME,2000, and XP.
•640 x 480 pixels resolution.
•Colour CMOS sensor.
•111(L) x 97(W) x 86(H)mm
approx.
Cat. QC-3395
Was $399.00 $
SAVE
00
229.
6
$170
Cat. LA-5130
$
50
47.
Large Surveillance
Warning Sticker
This label will leave no doubt
that your vehicle or premises
are fully protected.
Cat. LA-5102
$
25
Open the door from
anywhere! This great unit
acts as an intercom, with a
wireless receiver. Take it out
the back, or around the house.
It also has electronic door
strike control, so you can let
your visitors in too!
Cat. AI-5510
$
00
129.
RFID Access Control System
No contact required!
Control entry to a
doorway, or an entire
building. The unit can
be used in a network of
locks administered by a
central location, or just
to control access
through a front door. It is 12V powered, so you can
use it in remote locations, and the reader unit is
splash proof. •5 RFID cards included. Cat. LA-5120
$
00
•N.O. and N.C. relay contacts.
199.
A fixed IP (Internet Protocol) address allows images to
be viewed directly over the internet with an ordinary
browser from anywhere on the planet.
IP Addressable Camera
Remote surveillance?
No worries!
This internet addressable
camera features an
integrated web server, so
there is no need for a
computer! Also has a local
composite video output.
Was $249.00
Cat. QC-3390
$
00
2.
Wireless Intercom with
Door Strike Release
2 Input Video IP Network Web Server
Compatible with most CCTV products.
Upgrade your CCTV to an IP
(Internet Protocol)
surveillance
system.The unit
can be given a
SAVE
fixed or router
$100
assigned IP address
which allows camera images to be viewed and
controlled from anywhere in the world via an internet
browser. The setup interface is very user friendly.
See website or our catalogue for
Cat. QC-3394
$
00
full specifications. Limited quantity
Was $399.00
SAVE
$60
189.
289.
4 Input IP Sensor Modules
Security over the Internet!
This 4 input sensor can be
given an IP address so you
can monitor the
state of the
inputs from
anywhere in
the world with an
internet browser. It can be used
for PIRs, alarm sensors, lights, and more. Password
protection, polarity protection, and
Cat. LA-9040
more included.
$
00
See Cat page 327 for full details.
129.
Wireless Audio/Video Receiver
This wireless audio/video USB
receiver can be
connected directly to
your computer. The
supplied software
allows you to use up
to 3 wireless cameras.
Supports motion sensing, remote
internet viewing & playback,
automatic event notification and
much more. See website for
details.
Cat. AR-1835
$
00
249.
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
WIND TURBINE GENERATOR
A serious wind
turbine at a
breakthrough
price!
NOW IN
STOCK
This is a massive
unit and is
ruggedly built. It
will generate 200
watts at wind
speed as low as
8.9 metres per
second and will
Cat. MG-4510
deliver useful
power with a
gentle 3 metre /
second breeze or
give up to 300
watts at higher
wind velocities.
The 75kg unit
features a three
phase permanent
magnet alternator
with a rigid fibreglass 2.1 metre
diameter three blade rotor. The unit will withstand
wind speeds of 40m/sec (144km/hr) and has a 28V
output which will charge a 24V battery (there is no
point in 12V systems at this power level. If you
require 12V tap it from a 24V system). Some skill is
required in construction e.g. concreting, mechanical
assembly and rigging.
NB. Due to the weight and size not all stores will
have these in stock. The store can order the unit for
you and have it delivered to your site
(freight costs are additional).
See our website or catalogue
00
for further specifications.
ONLY
$499.
Battery Back-up
Module 28V/25A
Automatically switch to a
battery back up if primary
power is interrupted or
fails. For example, if you have a
portable refrigerator running from alternator
power. If you stop the engine driving the
alternator, this unit will switch a backup battery to run
the fridge or any other DC appliance within rating.
When the alternator power is restored the power will
be derived from that source automatically with the
bonus that the back up battery will be Cat. MB-3675
$
95
auto re-charged via the module.
New “Nite Ize”
Maglite™/Torch Accessories
Smart Home Cable Tester
VDV Multimedia Cable Tester.
Tests all common low voltage
cabling systems found in today's
automated homes such as
Voice, Data, and Video
Networks. Comes
with remote terminator.
Nite Ize accessories suit AA Maglites™
and small torches (not included).
Bite Light Adaptor
Simple but effective!
This attachment fits over the end of
your torch with a patented mouth
piece to allow you to safely bite down
on it to hold the torch in place. It also
includes a neck lanyard.
Cat. ST-3405
$
95
Cat. QP-2290
$
00
199.
7.
Luxeon Star Power Supplies
These 240 Volt power
packs simplify the power
requirements of
Luxeon LED's. An ideal
power source for
photographic light boxes or decorative
applications. There are a few types to satisfy
your lighting needs.
•Dimensions: 102 x 21 x 43mm
•Lead Lengths 1800mm on the wall socket side and
950mm Luxeon Side
Cat:
Voltage
Current
Unit:
1 Watt x 3 MP-3270
10V
350mA
1 Watt x 6 MP-3272
20V
350mA
3 Watt x 1 MP-3274
3.5V
800mA
Cat. MP-3270
$
95
19.
Cat. MP-3272
$
95
24.
Cat. MP-3274
$
95
19.
Digital Frequency
Counter 2.7GHz
199.
High Current Power Connectors
You'll find this connector in many 4WD applications,
boating, automotive and other industries. Supplied
individually with a pair of contacts and rated to 600V.
69.
14.
Extremely bright!
This laser module
consists of a 10mW
laser diode, lens, and driver PCB. Simply connect a
3VDC supply, & you have a great high
Cat. ST-3117
power laser. •Datasheet included.
$
95
•Measures 65(L) x 11(dia)mm.
149.
Make GPO installation and
checking a breeze!
Identifies problems with wiring,
and checks earth leakage circuit
breakers using
Cat. QP-2000
selectable trip
$
95
current.
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
Cat. PT-4420/22/24
Cat
Price
PT-4405
$5.95
PT-4420
$12.95
PT-4422
$28.95
PT-4424
$37.95
GPO Mains and Earth Leakage Tester
10mW Green Laser Module
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
19.
6.
7" Fibre Optic Adaptor
Thin and flexible!
Light only travels in straight lines, but you can make
it bend with this Fibre Optic adaptor. A small
attachment fits right over the head of your torch to
give you a flexible light source for inspecting in tight
places. 3mm diameter cable.
14.
This unit is a 10Hz to
2.7GHz dual range
frequency counter
for measuring
functions of
frequency period
totals and self checking. The counter readout
has a large 10mm high intensity 7 segment
LED display with gate time and data hold function.
Decimals are also included as well as a single step
input attenuation to a factor of 20
Cat. QT-2202
$
00
and a low pass filter.
Cat. PT-4405
Current
Poles
30 Amp
2
50 Amp
2
120 Amp
2
175 Amp
2
Not your average belt pouch!
Not only can you store your torch on
your belt, but with real world use in
mind it has a small pouch to carry
two spare AA or AAA batteries.
Made from strong
Cat. ST-3408
Nylon.
$
95
Cat. ST-3410
$
95
High Quality 500A Battery
Isolation Switch
Often referred to as a "kill switch",
a battery isolation switch is
often required to be fitted in
vehicles running in sanctioned races such
as rally or drag racing. They are fitted to electrically
disengage the battery to help prevent fire and
increase safety. Continuous rating:
Cat. SF-2245
95
120A <at> 12V. 60mm dia mounting plate. $
Belt Pouch
LED Upgrade Kit for Maglites
Better efficiency! Upgrade the bulb in your AA
Maglite™ to this unit that has 3
LEDs. Because LEDs are so
efficient, you get four times longer
battery life, and LEDs don’t blow!
This is the single
Cat. ST-3400
best upgrade to a
$
95
torch you can make!
14.
Stepper Motors &
Their Driver
Circuits Book
Written for the hobbyist and
experimenter you'll be able
to understand motors,
driver board kits, bit
patterns, components,
testing debugging & even
torque measurement.
Cat. BM-1510
$
95
15.
Simple Biodiesel Book
Save a fortune on diesel fuel!
Biodiesel Fuel is a diesel fuel
you can easily make yourself at
home. With simple methods
spelt out in this book, you can
produce fuel for a modern day
diesel engine from vegetable oil
(even used 'fish and chip' oil).
Takes you through everything
from starting your oil collection
service to testing and using
your fuel on the road.
61 Pages, softcover.
Cat. BE-1531
$
95
29.
7
USB Power Injector
A power boost for your USB port!
Refer: Silicon Chip
October 2004.
If you have a lot of
peripheral devices
running from your
computer, they may
be trying to draw
more current than your
USB port can provide.
This project will allow full
current draw no matter how many peripheral
devices you are running. It uses an external power
supply to tap into the existing line,
Cat. KC-5399
effectively boosting
$
95
the available current.
29.
Wine Cooler Kit
Make a cheap wine
cooler!
Ref: SC June 05. This
project turns a regular
fridge or freezer into a
wine cooler by accurately
controlling the temperature to
make it suitable for wine
storage. A much cheaper option than commercial
units. Kit supplied with PCB, case, mains plug
and all electronic components.
Cat. KC-5413
95
YOUR LOCAL JAYCAR STORE $
Freecall Orders: Ph 1800 022 888
NEW SOUTH WALES
Albury
Ph (02) 6021 6788
Alexandria
Ph (02) 9699 4699
Bankstown
Ph (02) 9709 2822
Blacktown
Ph (02) 9678 9669
Bondi Junction Ph (02) 9369 3899
Brookvale
Ph (02) 9905 4130
Campbelltown Ph (02) 4620 7155
Erina
Ph (02) 4365 3433
Hornsby
Ph (02) 9476 6221
Newcastle
Ph (02) 4965 3799
Parramatta
Ph (02) 9683 3377
Penrith
Ph (02) 4721 8337
Silverwater
Ph (02) 9741 8557
St. Leonards Ph (02) 9439 4799
Sydney City
Ph (02) 9267 1614
Taren Point
Ph (02) 9531 7033
Wollongong
Ph (02) 4226 7089
VICTORIA
Coburg
Ph (03) 9384 1811
Frankston
Ph (03) 9781 4100
Geelong
Ph (03) 5221 5800
Melbourne
Ph (03) 9663 2030
Ringwood
Ph (03) 9870 9053
Springvale
Ph (03) 9547 1022
Sunshine
Ph (03) 9310 8066
QUEENSLAND
Aspley
Ph (07) 3863 0099
Brisbane - Woolloongabba
Ph (07) 3393 0777
Gold Coast - Mermaid Beach
Ph (07) 5526 6722
Townsville
Ph (07) 4772 5022
Underwood
Ph (07) 3841 4888
AUSTRALIAN CAPITAL TERRITORY
Canberra
Ph (02) 6239 1801
TASMANIA
Hobart
Ph (03) 6272 9955
SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Adelaide
Ph (08) 8231 7355
Clovelly Park Ph (08) 8276 6901
WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Perth
Ph (08) 9328 8252
NORTHERN TERRITORY
Darwin
Ph (08) 8948 4043
NEW ZEALAND
Hamilton
Ph (07) 846 0177
Manukau - Auckland
Ph (09) 263 6241
Newmarket - Auckland
Ph (09) 377 6421
Glenfield - Auckland
Ph (09) 444 4628
Wellington
Ph (04) 801 9005
Christchurch Ph (03) 379 1662
Freecall Orders Ph 0800 452 9227
8
39.
Lead Acid Battery Zapper Kit
Extend the working life of
your lead acid battery!
Ref: SC July ‘05
Produces bursts of highenergy pulses to help
reverse the damaging effects
of sulphation in "wet" lead acid batteries.
This is particularly useful when a battery
has been sitting for a length of time without use. Its
effects are dependent on the batteries condition and
type, but the results can be quite impressive. Kit
supplied with case, silk screened lid, leads, Cat. KC-5414
$
95
inductor and all electronic components.
Where Have All The
Scoreboards Gone?
Basketball Scoreboard Kit
39.
Stereo Headphone Distribution Amp
Refer Silicon Chip November 2005
Enables you to drive up to two
stereo headphones from any line
level (1 volt peak to peak) input.
The circuit features a facility to
drive headphones with impedances
from about 8-600 Ω. The Jaycar kit
Cat. KC-5417
comes with all specified board
$
95
components & quality fibreglass tinned P.C.B.
34.
Headphone Amp Power Supply
To ensure the best possible
performance to the Headphone
Amp kit, this provides regulated
±15V and +5V outputs. Toroidal
KC-5418
transformer required use MT-2086 Cat.
$
95
17.
Performance Electronics for Cars Book
Over 160 pages!
The Performance Electronics for Cars Book
from Silicon Chip publications has chapters
on modification and theory,
as well as the 16 projects.
Cat. BS-5080
799.
19.80
$
Universal Voltage Switch Kit
Automatic device switching!
Use it to trigger cooling systems, fans, and
more from sensors. This can include
temperature sensors, throttle position sensors,
and more. Kit includes PCB and all electronic
components.
"Clock Watchers" LED Clock Kits
Cat. KC-5377
$
95
29.
Nitrous Fuel Mixture / Motor
Speed Controller Kit
Save a fortune over pre-built units!
Use it with an injector to fire nitrous fuel
into your engine, or control an electronic
water pump etc. Hundreds of uses! Kit
includes PCB and all electronic components.
Cat. KC-5382
$
95
24.
The SHORT CIRCUITS LEARNING SYSTEM
The Short Circuits learning system is a great way to learn electronics. It is
fun, informative, and you build great projects along the way.
Here are a couple from Short Circuits 3…
Guitar Link Kit
Play the guitar without the need of a guitar amplifier
and speakers. This neat pre-amplifier allows you to
connect to virtually any amplifier including your
home hi-fi. •Kit includes PCB, 6.5mm sockets and
electronic components. •12VDC power required.
Cat. KJ-8090
$
95
12.
Wind and Rain SFX
This kit simulates the sound of falling rain or
howling wind. Must be connected to an amplifier
(use amplifier project 11 or 13). Kit includes PCB
and electronic components. 12VDC power required.
Exclusive To Jaycar!
This kit enables you to make
a full-sized electronic
scoreboard, in particular for
Basketball but also adaptable
for netball and other games.
Ref: Silicon Ship March/April/May 2005.
It can built for the fraction of the cost of commercial
equivalents and has a completely wireless scoring
console that can control one or multiple scoreboards.
You can mount the scoreboard high up in the court
plug it in to a 240VAC power point and then control
them from a table courtside with no messy wiring. It
features Home/Away team scores 0 to 199 game
period, countdown time, Home/Away time and the
addition of a new 'foul' feature. It measures 900 x
600mm and comes with all pre-cut scoreboard
woodwork, screen printed face, display filters,
mounting plates, pre-programmed microcontroller,
printed circuit boards, 2.4GHz transmitter &
receivers, pre-punched control console with special
piezo end-of-game quarter sounder,
Cat. KC-5408
and all electronic components to
$
00
make one scoreboard.
Extra Scoreboards Available
Contain everything included in the original kit without
parts for the control console Cat. KC-5409 $649.00
These clocks are hypnotic!
Ref: SC June 2005.
They consist of an AVR
driven clock circuit,
that also produces a
dazzling display
with the 60 LEDs
around the
perimeter. It looks
amazing, but can't
be properly
explained here. We
have filmed it in action
so you can see for yourself
on our website! Kit supplied with
double sided silkscreened plated
through hole PCB and all board
components as well as the
special clock housing!
Available in
Red (KC-5404) and
Blue (KC-5416)
Cat. KC-5416
$
95
189.
EXCLUSIVE
TO JAYCAR
Cat. KJ-8088
$
95
16.
Cat. KC-5404
$
00
129.
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
Announcing the
Inaugural
2006 SILICON CHIP
Excellence in Education
Technology Awards
SILICON CHIP magazine aims to promote the education, development and application
of electronic technology in all fields throughout Australia. As part of that aim, we are
announcing the SILICON CHIP Excellence in Education Technology awards, with a prize
pool of $10,000. The inaugural awards will be announced in the December 2006 issue of
SILICON CHIP.
Separate awards will be made to students of secondary schools throughout Australia and
to students of universities and TAFE colleges throughout Australia.
The secondary school awards will have three categories:
(a)
Best final year assignment of an individual student involving electronics
technology
(b) An award to the school sponsoring the winning individual student
(c) Best school project involving electronics technology
The university and TAFE college awards will have three categories:
(a)
Best project from a student as part completion of a degree, diploma or certificate
in electronics or a related field (ie, mechatronics)
(b) Best research project from a post-graduate student working in an area of applied
electronics
(c) An award to the university faculty or school sponsoring the best research project.
Entries and judging
The awards will be judged by the editorial staff of SILICON CHIP, convened as a judges
panel. The decisions of the judges will be final.
Entries for the 2006 awards will open 1st May 2006, with final submissions to be made by
September 30th, 2006. All submissions will be confidential, until the winners are announced,
in the December 2006 issue of SILICON CHIP.
Each award will take the form of a cash prize and a commemorative plaque. All enquiries
about these awards should be directed to the editor via email to:
awards<at>siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
December 2005 61
By JIM ROWE
I
N THE BAD OLD DAYS, anyone
rolling up at a department-store
deli to buy a few slices of salami
or whatever had to muscle their way
through the crowd and try to attract
the attention of a salesperson or they’d
never get served. It was much the same
at employment offices and medical
scanning departments, where the rudest and most obnoxious people were
often attended to first.
Things became more civilised when
many of these places brought in systems to ensure that everyone was seen
in the order of their arrival. In most
cases, these systems use numbered
tear-off tickets in a dispenser, plus
a LED display or “annunciator” unit
which can display the numbers from
00-99 and can be updated to show
the next customer to be served. It’s a
simple system but it works well.
LED annunciators are available
commercially but they’re not cheap.
So if have been put off by the price
tag, this project is for you. You’ll be
able to assemble it from a kit for much
less than you’d pay for a similar commercial unit.
The LED Annunciator has digits
75mm high, each using 28 highbrightness 5mm red LEDs so they’re
clearly visible from many metres away.
The number displayed – from 00-99
– is incremented simply by pressing
a button on the separate small control box which can be located at any
convenient place behind a counter or
reception desk.
The Annunciator has no memory, so
Main Features
Number Range: 00-99 – incremented by one each time a button on control box is
pressed. Built-in piezo buzzer to attract customer attention.
Readout: two 75mm-high digits using high-brightness LEDs.
Power Supply: 12V DC plugpack (display unit supplied via cable from control box).
62 Silicon Chip
when you turn it off and then back on
next morning, it comes up with a display of “00” rather than the last ticket
number used the day before. However,
it’s easy to “run it up” to that number
because there’s a built-in self clocking
function. You activate this simply by
holding down the button for about
four seconds and then only releasing it
when the display reaches the number
you want to start with.
The unit also has a built-in piezo
buzzer, to produce a short “beep” each
time the display is updated, to attract
customer attention. However, this can
be disabled with a switch if you find
it too irritating.
The whole thing runs from a lowcost 12V regulated plugpack, although
those in rural areas could run it from
a 12V battery if they wish. The power
feeds into the small control box, which
then connects to the display unit via
a standard telephone extension cable
fitted with RJ12 connectors.
Circuit description
Fig.1 shows the main circuit. The
heart of the display unit is IC2, a
siliconchip.com.au
Remote LED
Annunciator
Got a queue situation? Want people to wait their turn as they
wait to be served in your vast retail emporium? Maybe you
run a hectic fast food store and you want to serve people in
their turn. If so, you need this big, bright LED Annunciator.
4553B CMOS 3-decade BCD counter.
This device includes latches and
output multiplexing, so it performs
the counting and also provides the
cyclic digit-select and digit data for a
multiplexed display. The “active-low”
digit-select signals appear on pins 2, 1
& 15, while the BCD digit data appears
on pins 9, 7, 6 & 5.
We’re only using two digits here,
so the pin 15 digit-select output is left
unconnected. The other two outputs are
used to turn on digit drivers Q8 & Q9
which are BD140 PNP transistors.
Since we are using 7-segment displays in the Annunciator, we feed
the BCD digit data from IC2 into IC3,
a 4511B BCD-to-7-segment converter.
This produces the correct 7-segment
drive signals for each BCD code fed
to it from IC2. The 7-segment signals
appear at pins 13, 12, 15, 14, 11, 10 &
9, which are then used to turn on segment driver transistors Q1-Q7. These
are low power 2N7000 Mosfets, used
here as voltage-controlled switches.
The two 7-segment display digits
siliconchip.com.au
At right is the
control box, while
on the facing page
is the display unit.
The two are joined
by telephone cable.
use four series-connected LEDs for
each segment. As you can see, the top
anode of each segment is connected
to the collector of the digit driver
transistor for that digit, so both digits
are being used in the common-anode
configuration. The cathode connections of each segment in the two digits
are connected together, to form the
segment drive lines. In turn, these
connect to the anodes of switching
transistors Q1-Q7, via 150W currentlimiting resistors.
As a result, the LEDs in each segment will draw current (about 23mA)
whenever the segment driver for that
segment is turned on and, at the same
time, the digit driver for that digit is
also turned on.
For example, to display a “2” in the
digit 1 position, Q8 is turned on to
apply +12V to that digit’s segments,
while at the same time segment drivers
Q1, Q2, Q4, Q5 & Q7 are also turned
on, to allow segments a, b, d, e & g to
draw current respectively.
All other numerals are displayed in
the same way, for both digits. Because
the displays are multiplexed in a cyclic
fashion at a rate of about 200Hz, they
appear to be continuously alight.
When power is first applied to the
December 2005 63
64 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: the display unit is based on IC2, a 4553B CMOS 3-decade BCD counter. It’s clocked (via IC1d and IC1b) each time pushbutton switch S1 in the control
box is pressed. Its outputs then drive a 4511B BCD-to-7-segment decoder (IC3), which in turn drives the LED display circuitry via Mosfets Q1-Q7.
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Fig.2: there’s not much to the control box circuit –
just a couple of switches, a power indicator LED and
two resistors. Power comes from a 12V DC plugpack
supply.
circuit, counter IC2 is reset by the 100nF capacitor and
100kW resistor connected to its MR input (pin 13). This is
why the display always starts up with “00”. The count is
incremented by feeding pulses from the control box into
its pin 12 CLK input.
The pulses are generated by pressing pushbutton S1
in the control box (see Fig.2) which in turn connects pin
3 of the RJ12 connectors to the negative supply rail. On
the main circuit of Fig.1, pin 3 of the RJ12 connectors is
connected to pin 12 of IC1d, which is one section of a
4093B quad CMOS Schmitt NAND gate. The pin 12 input
is normally pulled high via a 100kW resistor, which also
charges the 100nF capacitor.
Since pin 13 of IC1d is connected to +12V as well, this
means that both inputs are normally high, so output pin
11 is held low. And because this output is connected to
pin 6 of IC1b, this also results in that gate’s pin 4 output
being held high. This means that the CLK input of the
counter is also held high.
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Pushbutton functions
Pushing S1 on the control box pulls pin 12 of IC1d
down to ground and discharges the 100nF capacitor.
Because this capacitor takes a number of milliseconds to
recharge through the 100kW resistor, if S1 is released (or
if the contacts bounce), pin 12 of IC1d is pulled low for
at least as long as the button is pressed, plus about 10ms.
This causes the output of IC1d to switch high for the same
period, which results in the output of IC1b switching low
as well.
This provides a clock pulse for the counter, to increase
its count by one.
The additional circuitry around diode D1 and gate IC1a
(Fig.1) is used to provide the self-incrementing feature,
which works as follows. Normally, when pushbutton S1
in the control box is not pressed, the output of IC1d is
held low because both its inputs are high.
As a result, pin 2 of gate IC1a is also held low, because
any charge on the 1mF capacitor is drained away via diode
D1. However, when S1 is pressed, as we’ve already seen,
this pulls IC1d’s input low and results in its output going
high. This allows the 1mF capacitor to begin charging via
the 3.3MW resistor.
siliconchip.com.au
December 2005 65
Now when S1 is pressed only briefly,
to simply increment the counter, the
1mF has only begun to charge up when
S1 is released again. As a result, the
output of IC1d drops low again and any
charge on the capacitor is immediately
removed by D1.
However, if S1 is held down for
around four seconds, this results in
the output of IC1d being held high
for the same time. This allows the
1mF capacitor to fully charge, which
in turn allows IC1a to begin working
as a relaxation oscillator, at roughly
10Hz. The 10Hz pulses from pin 3 of
IC1a are then gated through IC1b to
the CLK input of IC2.
As soon as the count reaches the
number you want, you simply release
S1 again and the switch reverts to its
normal behaviour.
Beep circuit
Fig.3: here’s how to install the parts on the display PC board. Make
sure all polarised parts, including the LEDs, are correctly oriented.
Gate IC1c, diode D2 and transistor
Q10 are used to provide the optional
“beep” function. Pin 9 of IC1c is coupled to the output of IC1d via a 47nF
capacitor. Together with the 2.2MW
resistor, this forms a differentiator
circuit which delivers a short negative-going pulse to the input of IC1c
whenever the output of IC1d falls to
logic low level after being high – ie,
each time you release pushbutton S1
after pressing it.
Diode D2 suppresses the unwanted
positive-going pulse when S1 is first
pressed.
So whenever S1 is released, a short
negative-going pulse is applied to the
normally-high pin 9 of IC1c which
inverts the pulse and applies it to the
base of transistor Q10. Q10 is thus
turned on briefly (ie, for 100ms) to
drive the piezo buzzer.
The +12V to charge the 1000mF capacitor and allow the buzzer to beep
is provided via a separate wire in the
cable between the control box and
the LED display, linking pin 1 of the
two RJ12 connectors. It is controlled
by switch S2 which therefore selects
The display board is secured to the Perspex panel using M3 x 25mm tapped spacers and M3 x 6mm machine screws.
66 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
This is the fully-assembled display board. The LEDs are
all mounted with the aid of a 14mm cardboard spacer
which goes between their leads when soldering (see text).
whether the buzzer sounds or not.
There is also a 2.2kW resistor connected between pin 1 and the negative
rail (ground) in the control box, to
discharge the 1000mF capacitor fairly
quickly if S2 is turned off after having
been on.
That’s about it, apart from a small
green LED (LED57) in the control box
to show when power is applied to the
annunciator circuit.
Construction
All the components in the LED
display section, apart from the piezo
buzzer, are mounted on the main PC
board which measures 185 x 102mm.
This has rounded cutouts at each
corner so it fits neatly inside a standard UB2-size jiffy box (197 x 113 x
63mm). The usual box lid is replaced
by a 191 x 107mm rectangle of 3mm
red Perspex, allowing you to see the
number display.
The PC board is mounted behind the
Perspex panel using four M3 x 25mm
tapped spacers and eight M3 x 6mm
machine screws. The piezo buzzer
mounts on the lefthand end of the box
(near the rectangular hole for the RJ12
cable connector) and is secured using
two 4G x 6mm self-tapping screws.
The component overlay for the main
PC board is shown in Fig.3. Begin assembly of the board by fitting the 10
wire links. They can be made from
Table 2: Capacitor Codes
Value
220nF
100nF
47nF
22nF
μF Code
0.22µF
0.1µF
.047µF
.022µF
EIA Code
224
104
473
223
IEC Code
220n
100n
47n
22n
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
siliconchip.com.au
No.
1
1
1
2
1
1
3
7
7
Value
3.3MW
2.2MW
470kW
100kW
10kW
2.2kW
1kW
150W
100W
4-Band Code (1%)
orange orange green brown
red red green brown
yellow violet yellow brown
brown black yellow brown
brown black orange brown
red red red brown
brown black red brown
brown green brown brown
brown black brown brown
5-Band Code (1%)
orange orange black yellow brown
red red black yellow brown
yellow violet black orange brown
brown black black orange brown
brown black black red brown
red red black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
brown green black black brown
brown black black black brown
December 2005 67
Fig.4: this is the parts layout for the control board, while at right is the matching photo. Note that the switches are
soldered into place only after both they and the PC board have been mounted on the lid.
Fig.5: here’s how the control box goes together. As with the
display board, the LED is installed using a 14mm spacer.
The top photo shows the control box lid with the two
switches and the M3 x 15mm spacers in place, while the
photo above shows the unit with the PC board in place.
either 0.8mm tinned copper wire or
resistor lead offcuts. That done, fit the
RJ12 connector (CON1) and the small
2-way terminal block used to connect
the wires from the piezo buzzer.
Take care with the RJ12 socket. In
particular, make sure that all four of
its connection wires pass through their
corresponding board holes before you
push the socket’s plastic lugs through
the larger holes. That’s because the
connection wires are quite fine and can
68 Silicon Chip
This side-on view clearly shows the control box assembly
(but from the other side compared to the diagram above),
while at right is the completed unit.
otherwise be buckled when the socket
clicks into position. After it has been
fitted, you need to solder the wires
underneath, of course.
Next, fit the resistors and then the
capacitors, starting with the smaller
and lower value metallised polyester and multilayer monolithic types
which are not polarised. The two electrolytics can then go in, making sure
you fit these with the correct polarity.
The two 1N4148 diodes are fitted
with their cathode band ends towards
the right. The three transistors in
TO-126 packages (Q8, Q9 & Q10) are
each fitted to the board with a 10mm
long M3 machine screw and nut. In
each case, the leads are bent down
5mm away from the body, so that they
pass through the corresponding board
holes when the transistor is screwed
down.
Once these parts are in, fit the BD139
transistor in the Q10 position. The two
siliconchip.com.au
Par t s Lis t – LED Annunciator
Main Box
1 PC board, code 03112051,
185 x 102mm
1 UB2 plastic jiffy box (197 x 113
x 63mm)
1 3mm-thick red Perspex panel
to match box, 191 x 107mm
4 M3 x 25mm tapped spacers
8 M3 x 6mm machine screws,
round head
3 M3 x 10mm machine screws,
round head
3 M3 nuts
1 12V piezo buzzer (Jaycar AB3462)
2 4G x 6mm self-tapping screws
1 RJ12 socket, PC board mounting (CON1)
1 2-way PC-mount LV terminal
block – 5mm spacing (CON2)
Fig.6: here are the drilling details for
the control box.
Semiconductors
1 4093B quad CMOS Schmitt
NAND gate (IC1)
1 4553B 3-decade CMOS
counter (IC2)
1 4511B BCD-to 7-segment
decoder (IC3)
7 2N7000 N-channel MOSFETs
(Q1-Q7)
2 BD140 PNP transistors (Q8,
Q9)
1 BD139 NPN transistor (Q10)
56 5mm high brightness LEDs
(LED1-LED56)
2 1N4148 diodes (D1,D2)
Capacitors
1 1000mF 16V electrolytic
1 330mF 16V electrolytic
1 1.0mF MKT metallised polyester
1 220nF MKT metallised polyester
3 100nF multilayer monolithic
2 100nF MKT metallised polyester
1 47nF MKT metallised polyester
1 22nF MKT metallised polyester
Resistors (0.25W 1%)
1 3.3MW
1 10kW
1 2.2MW
2 1kW
1 470kW
7 150W
2 100kW
7 100W
Control Box
1 PC board, code 03112052, 76
x 46mm
1 3mm green LED (LED57)
1 UB5 plastic jiffy box (83 x 54 x
31mm)
1 pushbutton switch (S1 – Jaycar
SP-0700)
1 round actuator SPDT rocker
switch (S2 – Jaycar SK-0960)
1 RJ12 socket, PC board mounting
(CON1)
1 2.5mm DC input socket, PC
board mounting (CON2)
4 M3 x 15mm tapped spacers
4 M3 x 6mm machine screws,
countersunk head
4 M3 x 6mm machine screws,
round head
1 RJ12 6P/4C extension cable,
3m long (Jaycar YT-6040)
Resistors (0.25W 1%)
1 2.2kW
1 1kW
Where To Buy A Kit
The development of this project has been sponsored by Jaycar Electronics and
so kits for the LED Annunciator will only be available from Jaycar who hold
the design copyright. The kit will retail for $59.95 (KC-5420), including the
red Perspex lid for the display and a screen-printed lid for the controller box.
BD140 transistors can then be installed
in the Q8 & Q9 positions.
Fitting the LEDs
There are 56 red LEDs which form
siliconchip.com.au
the segments of the displays.
These are all fitted with their
longer anode leads towards the
top of the board and their “flat”
sides downwards, as shown in
Fig.3. The LEDs are all fitted with
the lower surface of their body about
14mm above the top of the board.
Soldering the LEDs in with this uniform spacing is bit tedious but you’ll
find it easier if you use a 14mm-wide
strip of cardboard as a spacer under
each group of four LEDs (ie, position
the spacer between the leads).
After the LEDs are all in place, fit the
seven 2N7000 transistors (Q1-Q7) with
their flat sides uppermost. Take care
when you’re handling these transistors
(and the three CMOS ICs), because
they are MOSFET devices and can be
damaged by electrostatic discharge. So
discharge yourself before you handle
December 2005 69
Fig.7: the main display box requires a cutout in one end to provide access
to the RJ12 connector (CON1), plus three holes for the buzzer (two for
mounting and one to feed the leads through, back into the box).
them and solder their leads in place
with an earthed soldering iron.
Control box
Everything in the small control box
mounts on a PC board measuring 76
x 46mm, again with rounded corner
cutouts so it fits inside a UB5 jiffy box.
The board is attached to the rear of the
box lid using four M3 x 15mm tapped
spacers, plus four countersink-head
M3 screws and four roundhead screws,
all 6mm long.
The component overlay is shown in
Fig.4 while the box drilling details are
shown in Fig.6. You need to drill and
cut the box before you can assemble
the PC board, as detailed below.
Before the PC board is attached to
the box lid, you need to install the
RJ12 and DC input connectors, the two
resistors and the 3mm green LED – see
Fig.4. The LED is fitted with its body
about 14mm up from the top of the
board, so that it will protrude through
the matching hole in the box lid. Make
sure you fit it with its cathode “flat”
towards the top of the board and its
longer anode lead towards the 1kW
resistor.
Switches S1 and S2 are not fitted to
the PC board but are mounted on the
box lid. The smaller pushbutton (S1)
is fitted in the hole on the left, with its
two connection lugs aligned carefully
in the North-South direction so they’ll
pass through the matching slots in the
70 Silicon Chip
PC board when it’s attached. The larger
toggle/rocker switch S2 mounts in the
hole on the right and is orientated so
that its indexing key passes through
the notch on the righthand side. This
ensures that its connection lugs also
pass through their matching board
slots on the board.
Once both switches have been fitted to the box lid, you can fit the four
mounting spacers behind the lid as
well, using four countersink-head M3
screws – see Fig.5. That done, offer up
the PC board assembly from behind the
lid, taking care to make sure that the
LED passes through its hole in the lid
and that the switch connection lugs
pass through their board slots.
When the board is resting on the
spacers, secure it using the four roundhead M3 x 6mm screws. It’s then just
a matter of soldering the switch connection lugs to their pads on the back
of the board, to finish the control box
wiring – see Fig.6.
The two parts of your LED Annunciator should now be functional and
ready for checkout. This is done before
the main display board is attached to
the spacers behind the Perspex front
panel.
Testing
To text the unit, you’ll need a 12V
DC regulated plugpack or a 12V battery. Either way, the supply needs
to have a 2.5mm concentric plug at-
tached to its output lead (if it doesn’t
already have one), with the positive
wire connecting to the plug’s centre
contact and the negative wire to the
outer sleeve.
Don’t connect the control box to
the main display board at this stage.
Instead, just connect the 12V power
supply to the control box, by plugging
the 2.5mm DC plug into CON2, and
check that the green power LED lights.
If it doesn’t, you’ve either made a mistake in the wiring or the LED has been
installed the wrong way around.
OK so far? If so, switch off and connect the display board assembly to the
control box using the phone extension
cable with its RJ12 connectors. That
done, reapply power and check that
the display unit shows “00”.
You should now be able to increment the displayed count by pressing
pushbutton switch S1. Each time you
do this, the reading should increase by
one; ie, 01, 02, 03 and so on.
Now temporarily connect the buzz
er leads to the small terminal block
CON2 (lefthand end of the main display board) and turn on switch S2.
The piezo buzzer should now emit a
short “beep” each time you release the
pushbutton (S1).
Now hold down S1. After about
four seconds, the display should start
increasing quickly. If that checks out,
your LED Annunciator is working and
you’re ready for the final assembly.
Finishing up
First, attach the piezo buzzer to the
end of the box using a pair of 4G x 6mm
long self-tapping screws, with its connection wires passing inside through
the centre hole. That done, you can
reconnect the wires to the terminal
block on the main board.
Next, fit four M3 x 25mm tapped
spacers to the main board using four
M3 x 6mm machine screws and attach
the board to the rear of the front panel,
again using four M3 x 6mm screws.
That done, lower the panel and board
assembly into the box, making sure the
piezo buzzer wires are not strained or
blocking the RJ12 socket access, and
fit the four small self-tapping screws
to hold it all together.
Finally, if the 3m telephone cable
supplied with the kit isn’t long enough
for your intended application, longer
cables are available from Jaycar stores
and dealers, as well as from many other
SC
suppliers.
siliconchip.com.au
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BitScope plugs into third party software tools and has an open API
for user programming and custom data acquisition.
BitScope Designs
siliconchip.com.au
Ph: (02) 9436 2955
Fax: (02) 9436 3764
www.bitscope.com
December 2005 71
SILICON CHIP
MIDI
DRUM
KIT
by JOHN CLARKE
72 D
2005
72 Secember
ilicon Chip
PART 2: PUTTING IT TOGETHER
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
Last month we introduced our latest MIDI instrument, the
MIDI Drum Kit offering a staggering 546 drum sounds and
not a stretched skin in sight! Here’s all you need to know to
put the control unit together – and it’s not that difficult . . .
A
RE YOU HOT TO TROT, wanting
to start playing with your new
MIDI Drum Kit? Let’s get started
with building it.
Following on from the circuit description of the SILICON CHIP MIDI
Drum Kit in the first article last month,
we shall now describe the construction
of both the main unit and the different
types of sensors.
The unit itself is constructed using
two PC boards, the main PC board
(coded 01211051 and measuring 187
x 104mm) and the display PC board
(coded 01211052 and measuring 140
x 100mm).
The assembled PC boards are fitted,
one on top of the other, into a plastic
box measuring 197 x 113 x 63mm. The
box is actually used upside-down; that
is, the normal lid of the box becomes
the base and the display board sits in
what would normally be the bottom
of the box – turned upside down, it
becomes the top! Confused? It will all
become clearer as we proceed . . .
Before starting construction, check
the PC boards for correct hole sizes and
that there are no breaks in the copper
or shorts between tracks or pads. Hole
sizes for the corner mounts on the display PC board and for the LCD module
should be 3mm diameter (~1/8”).
Check that the mounting holes for
the external jack socket, the DC power
socket, the DB9F serial connector and
the MIDI output socket are all correct.
Finally, the main board has four corner
cut-outs, which you can clearly see in
our photos, to enable it to fit snugly
inside the box mounting pillars.
Assuming that the Drum Kit is built
from a commercial kit, all the holes in
the box should have been drilled and
milled out to the correct size and a
front panel label should be supplied.
If not, now is the time to carefully
drill and cut out the various holes in
the box, as per the photo below and
the front panel artwork.
It is vital that the display cutout,
switch holes and mounting holes in
what will become the front panel (ie,
the bottom of the box) are absolutely
This shot clearly
shows
(a) how the
two PC boards
are piggy-backed
together, and (b)
the many holes
in the box which
will have to
be drilled very
accurately. The
cutout for the
display will
differ according
to the brand of
display.
siliconchip.com.au
D
2005 73
December
ecember 2005 73
heatsink using an M3 x 10mm screw
and nut.
Next, insert and solder in the upright 26-way IDC header, taking care
to orient it with the locating tab to the
outside of the PC board. Then insert
and attach the MIDI out socket, the
DB9 connector, the right-angle 16-pin
header, the DC sockets and the 4-way
stereo RCA sockets.
LED1 is mounted with the shown
orientation, with the longer (anode)
lead to the left and as high on its leads
as possible. Leave just a millimetre of
cathode lead under the PC board for
soldering (naturally the anode lead,
being longer, will have a bit more
poking through). The LED is later bent
over to fit into the hole in the side of
the box.
Fig.1: the 26-way IDC
cable connects the two
PC boards together and
the 16-way cable is for
games port connection.
Note that each end is
different – on the 26way, one suits a vertical
IDC socket and the other
a horizontal while the
16-way has a DB15 plug
on one end. The easiest
way to fasten the IDC
sockets onto the cables
without the special IDC
tool is to squeeze the
assembly together in a
bench vice.
perfectly placed, otherwise the various
components won’t fit through.
Similarly, the various connector
holes and cutouts along one side and
one end are also quite critical, as the
connector positions are fixed by their
location on the PC board. The only
latitude you have is the cutout for the
power switch, as it is on flying leads.
The display board
Start assembly with the display PC
board, mainly because there are less
components. Insert the links first so
you do not forget to do this.
The board has provision for three
commonly available LCD modules
– the Jaycar QP-5515 (or the backlit
model QP-5516), the DSE Z-4170 and
the Altronics Z-7001. If using the
Jaycar LCD module, mount it using
a dual 7-pin header to connect from
the LCD module to the PC board. The
Altronics/DSE modules use a 14-pin
SIL header instead.
Solder the pins on the topside of
the LCD and on the underside of the
display PC board. The two opposite
corner mounting holes on the LCD
module are held down using two M3 x
10mm screws and M3 nuts, with some
Nylon washers placed in between the
display PC board and LCD PC board.
Trimpot VR8 and the 10mF capacitor
can now be mounted. Note that the
10mF capacitor should lie on its side
to provide clearance when the display
assembly is secured to the lid. Next is
IC4, taking care to orient it correctly.
Insert and solder in the 26-way rightangle header plug.
The switches are mounted as shown,
74 Silicon Chip
with the flat side of the larger switches
oriented to the side of the PC board.
Switch S5 is mounted with the wider
spaced pins mounted in the horizontal
plane.
The main board
Begin assembly of the main PC
board by installing the links and
resistors. In a kit, a length of tinned
copper wire is normally supplied for
links. Otherwise, use the offcut resistor
leads. The resistor colour code table
will help you select each resistor but
if in any doubt, measure the values
using a digital multimeter (some resistor colour bands can be very similar
to other colours – brown and red for
example – and mistakes are easily
made, especially in low light).
Now we move on to installing the
semiconductors – the diodes first
of all, taking care to orient them as
shown. Again, take care with the
orientation of the ICs. IC1, IC2, IC5
and IC6 can be soldered directly to
the PC board, while IC3 is mounted
using a socket.
The capacitors and crystal can be
mounted next. Note that the electrolytic capacitors are polarised and must
be oriented as shown on the overlay.
Neither the crystal nor other capacitors
are polarised.
Now mount the PC stakes and trimpots VR1-VR7. REG1 is mounted horizontally, with a heatsink sandwiched
between it and the PC board. Bend its
leads by holding them in a pair of fine
pliers at the correct position, so they
fit into the holes while allowing the
tab to be secured to the PC board and
Wiring
The photo overleaf shows the
connection between the two boards
using a short 26-way IDC cable and
the two IDC connectors. The boards
are oriented with their connectors
at opposite ends – when completed,
the two boards and cable make a “Z”
shape.
You will probably have to make the
IDC cables yourself as they are nonstandard. Follow the diagrams (Fig.1)
carefully. Orient the tabs on the side
of the connectors as shown and clip
in the back of the connector with the
cable in place.
The easiest way to press the parts
together is to carefully use a vice. Some
people use a hammer but this is not
recommended for a beginner!
Plug the cable in to both the main PC
board and display PC board to make
the connections.
The games port wiring is similar to
the 26-way wiring except that we use
16-way cable, of which only 15 wires
are used (all 16 wires connect to the
16-way plug but the wire connecting
to pin 16 is cut before terminating the
cable into the 15-pin DB-15 plug. Both
the 16-pin IDC plug and the 15-pin
DB-15 plug clamp onto the 16-way
cable using a vice, as before.
The wires connecting power switch
S7 have crimp connectors for the
switch lugs, with the opposite ends
soldered to the appropriate stakes on
the PC board.
Clip the connectors onto the switch
lugs (polarity is unimportant). Your
MIDI Drum Kit is now completed
and ready for testing. You may have
siliconchip.com.au
The display board photo (above) and component overlay (Fig.2, below) are reproduced here very close to full size so
you can compare your component placement with the prototype. Note the flat sides on the switches – they must be
inserted this way or they won’t work – and also the laid-over 10mF electrolytic capacitor!
noted that you have one IC (IC3) left
over. This is deliberate – do not insert
it in its socket just yet! Also, for the
moment, remove the IDC cable which
connects the two PC boards.
siliconchip.com.au
Testing
The Drum Kit is now ready for testing but before you do, give it a careful
check-over, looking for dry joints, solder bridges and splashes (especially
around IC pins) and of course wrongly
placed components. A few minutes
now can save hours of frustration (if
not damage) later.
If you are satisfied with your conDecember 2005 75
Once again reproduced very close to life size, this is the main
PC board, together with its component overlay (Fig.3) below.
The only IC socket is for the PIC chip and this is not
plugged in until after initial checking.
76 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
The main PC board
is quite a bit larger
than the display
board, even though
this photo doesn’t
show it. Note the
bent-over LED at the
back of the board.
struction, plug in the plugpack into
the DC socket. Connect your multimeter common (black) lead to pin 11
of IC1 and the positive lead to pin 4.
Switch on the plugpack at the mains
and switch on S7.
If you get a reading of about 9V,
great. If the reading is zero, check
that the DC plug for the plugpack has
the right polarity – it should be +ve
to the centre and –ve to the body. If
it is wrong, and your plugpack has a
polarity reversing plug and socket,
separate the two halves and put back
in the other way.
If it is now +ve to the centre, plug it
back in and check again. If OK, you’re
on your way. Otherwise, there is some
form of major problem with either the
plugpack (a broken wire?), REG1 (a
solder bridge or unsoldered joint?),
or perhaps the diode is soldered in
back to front.
Measure the output of REG1 by
probing the centre and right terminals.
The voltage should be about 5V – at
least between 4.75 and 5.25V. If this
is not correct, check the PC board for
a short circuit.
You should also be able to measure
the nominal 5V between pins 5 and 14
of IC3’s socket and about 9V between
pins 4 and 11 of IC2. On IC6, check
for 5V at pin 16, -9V at pin 6 and 9V
at pin 2. These 9V readings may be
anywhere up to 9.6V.
If the voltages are OK, you can
install IC3 after switching off power
again. Connect the 26-way IDC connection cable between the display
PC board and the main PC board. The
display should be showing characters
– it doesn’t matter what just yet. If you
cannot see anything on the display,
adjust VR8 for best contrast.
Now you can check the operation
of all switches by going through the
switch usage description as detailed
last month. (Note that we have not yet
installed the PC boards in the box).
Setting up
At this stage you can calibrate the
unit by pressing the Ports/Cal switch
and then pressing the ^ switch to set
the calibration sequence.
Changing the port settings can be
done now too. Use the < or > switches
RESISTOR COLOUR CODES
q
q
q
q
q
q
q
No. Value
22 100kW
1 22kW
1 10kW
8 2.2kW
1
1kW
1 470W
4 220W
siliconchip.com.au
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black yellow brown
red red black orange brown
brown black orange brown
red red red brown
brown black red brown
yellow violet brown brown
red red brown brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black orange brown
red red black red brown
brown black black red brown
red red black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
yellow violet black black brown
red red black black brown
to select for the serial or MIDI ports.
Finally, rotate trimpots VR1-VR7
fully clockwise. These can be adjusted
later if a sensor appears to have more
sensitivity than the others (you will
need to remove the boards from the
box to do so).
Mounting the boards
First of all, disconnect the 26-way
IDC cable from the main board (but
leave it connected to the display
board) and unclip the power switch
from the main board. At this point,
you can also remove the two capture
screws on the DB9 socket – but don’t
lose them!
Now the display PC board can be
mounted within the box. As we mentioned before, the mounting is rather
unconventional with the display protruding from the base of the box rather
than from the lid. This allows the main
PC board to mount close to the opening
of the box, making it possible to insert
the RCA sockets and the DB9 socket
into the holes in the sides of the case
(even if you have to prise the box edge
out a little as you do it.
The display PC board is mounted
on 9mm tapped spacers and held in
with M3 screws. This is where your
precision in drilling and shaping the
holes is tested! Once the display board
CAPACITOR CODES
Value mF IEC
1mF
1mF
1u
100nF
0.1mF
100n
33pF
NA
33p
EIA
105
104
33
December 2005 77
Parts List – Main Drum Kit
1 PC board coded 01211051, 187 x 104mm
1 PC board coded 01211052, 140 x 100mm
1 UB2 box measuring 197 x 113 x 63mm
1 DB9 cable (plug to socket lead 1.8m long)
1 2-line 16-character LCD module – see text
1 250mA 9V DC plugpack
1 mini rocker switch (S7)
4 stereo PC mount RCA sockets
2 PC mount DC power sockets
1 5-pin PC mount DIN socket
1 DB15 IDC male plug
1 DB9 PC mount right angle female connector
1 26 pin IDC header
1 26 pin right angle IDC header
1 16 pin right angle IDC header
2 26-pin IDC line sockets
1 16-pin IDC socket
1 7-way DIL header for Jaycar LCD module
1 14-way SIL header for Altronics & DSE LCD module
5 SPST PC-mount snap action switches (S1-S4, S6)
1 SPST micro tactile switch (S5)
1 18-pin IC socket
1 heatsink, 19 x 19 x 10mm
1 16MHz crystal (X1)
5 9mm tapped spacers
10 M3 x 10mm screws
4 M3 Nylon nuts
2 M3 x 15mm screws
4 No.6 self taping screws
2 crimp spade female connectors for switch
1 serial DB9 cable male to female
1 30mm length of 0.8mm tinned copper wire
1 180mm length of 26-way IDC cable
1 2m length of 16-way IDC cable
1 100mm length of medium duty hookup wire
1 500mm length of 0.8mm tinned copper wire
2 PC stakes
Viewed from the opposite angle to the earlier shot, the 4x
RCA stereo sockets can be seen on the lower (main) board,
along with the IDC cable emerging from the top board IDC
socket.
is secured, insert the switch into its hole in the side of the
case. Now comes the main PC board. It is secured in the
box only by the screws which hold in the RCA sockets and
the DB9 sockets – it doesn’t have any mounting screws or
pillars as the display board does.
As you lower the main PC board into the case, reattach
both the 26-way IDC cable and the switch wires. Angle the
board down so that the RCA sockets go through the holes
in the end of the box and then gently prise the side of the
box outwards so the DB9 socket fits into its hole as you
locate the board inside the case.
The RCA and DB9 sockets are the only sockets which
actually emerge through the box – the rest are flush with
Semiconductors
2 LM324 quad op amps (IC1,IC2)
1 PIC16F88 programmed with DRUMKIT16.hex (IC3)
1 4040 counter (IC4)
1 6N138 optocoupler (IC5)
1 MAX232 RS232 receiver/driver (IC6)
1 7805 5V three terminal regulator (REG1)
1 1N4004 1A diode (D8)
7 1N4148 switching diodes (D1-D7)
1 5mm red LED (LED1)
Capacitors
1 470mF 16V PC electrolytic
1 100mF 16V PC electrolytic
5 10mF 16V PC electrolytic
7 1mF 16V PC electrolytic
5 1mF ceramic
9 100nF MKT polyester
2 33pF ceramic
Resistors (1/4W 1%)
22 100kW
1 22kW
1 10kW
8 2.2kW
1 1kW
1 470W
4 220W
7 20kW horizontal trimpots (code 203) (VR1-VR7)
1 10kW horizontal trimpot (code 103) (VR8)
78 Silicon Chip
The fully
assembled project,
ready to screw the base
(lid) on. The four holes in
the lid are for the stand-mounting
saddle clamps (if required).
siliconchip.com.au
It’s almost finished – the PC boards are in, the base is on and the RS232 socket is secured. All that’s left now are some
labels: one for the front panel and one each for the end (RCA sockets) and side (input/output sockets and power switch).
the inside of the box.
With the board in place, re-attach
the DB9 capture screws from the
outside of the box to hold the socket
in place. The RCA socket sets is held
in place using four No.6 self-tapping
screws that screw into the holes in the
RCA socket mouldings.
(Don’t be tempted to rely on the
soldered joints to hold the socket set in
place – removing and inserting plugs
could eventually break the joints).
Mounting on the drum stand?
As you can see from our opening
photo, we made up a stand from 25mm
dowel (actually broom handle!) and
T-pieces to hold all of the pad
sensor plates. This stand can
also hold the MIDI Drum Kit
control box if you wish.
Do this by attaching two
25mm saddle clamps to the box
lid using M4 x 12mm Nylon
screws and nuts. The screw is
inserted from the inside of the
case to allow clearance for the
PC board.
The two saddle clamps are held in place with
Nylon screws are required to
nylon screws and nuts to prevent shorts.
prevent them shorting anything
on the back of the main PC board. The
sensors, foot pedal, foot switch and
rear panel can now be attached.
stand in this issue but space has
We had hoped to describe the
beaten us – these will be described
construction of the two types of pad
next month.
SC
SILICON
CHIP
Fig.4: the full-size front panel artwork with hole positions for the switches and mounting holes. No display cutout is
shown as this will vary with the type of display. An accurate photocopy of this could also be used as a drilling template.
siliconchip.com.au
December 2005 79
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au/
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au/
Salvage It!
BY JULIAN EDGAR
So you’ve found a no-cost VCR – let’s
salvage the good bits
Rather than building a project, this month we’re going to look at
the parts that you can easily obtain from a VCR. VCRs are now
available for nothing or near-nothing – the one shown here was
picked up at a garage sale for $5 but on kerbside hard rubbish
collection days, they are free! But what good parts are inside?
Contrary to what you might expect, the best bits are mechanical
rather than electronic. Let’s take a look.
➋
➊
, model
machine n’t really
S
H
V
fi
istar h
del do
t – a Gold the make and mo avy it is!
in
o
p
g
n
he
rse,
e starti
nt is how
are to
ut of cou
Here’s th
903CH. B at’s more importa more likely you s, the
-F
R
r
e
b
e
h
e
th
w
m
,
num
e
–
R
tr
h
C
x
c
e
ry mu
ier a V
go to
amount
matter ve you see, the heav inside. In fact, to
le
ib
d
e
r
c
in
ll
Huh? We eable components achines weigh an some fantastic
m
ag
nd
e
fi
p
l
’l
ta
u
. On the
o
o
e
y
find salv
switches noids
inside
atic vid
d
d
-m
n
n
a
a
U
)
t
s
d
n
id
e
ie
o
ft
sole
anc
olen
be li
otors and
n barely
-quality s
(some ca g, including high ht VCR has few m his Goldstar unit
T
ig
in
ht want.
engineer , a super lightwe
g you mig
d
other han lly less of anythin
ra
and gene ling” in weight.
d
id
was “m
82 Silicon Chip
It takes very little time to remove the cover (keep
those screws!) and strip out the main circuit boards.
In fact, it’s worth stressing that disassembling a VCR
is really a quick and easy process – expect to take
perhaps only half an hour to do the job from start
to finish. It makes sense to do all the mechanical
work in one go, coming back to the electronic parts
later in the process. So with the electronic boards
placed to one side, the next step is to remove the
tape transport mechanism and head. This assembly
is almost always found on a sub-chassis which is
screwed to the plastic inside the case.
siliconchip.com.au
➌
Here’s the inner chassis on its own. At this stage, the
contents of the VCR have already been narrowed down
to just this and the PC boards. Throw the rest away as
you remove it – ie, the top and bottom covers, the front
cover and the inner plastic chassis. Anyway, the next
steps involve pulling this piece of gear apart. You’ll need
a good-quality medium point Phillips head screwdriver –
invariably, some of the screws are tight and once you start
mangling screw heads with a second-rate screwdriver, it
rapidly gets too hard. Put all the screws, springs and drive
belts into plastic containers as you proceed.
➍
And here
’s
a whole V one of the pearls.
I’
C
good I th R just to pull this m happy collectin
in
g
p
drum ass k it is. But what is art out – that’s ho
w
embly tha
it? It’s the
t holds th
write and
spinning
e
e
great pre rase the tape. It’s video heads that re
cis
d
a
life of the ion many million esigned to rotate w d,
s
V
it
Specifica CR and as a resu of times during th h
lt,
lly
e
steel shaft , its mechanicals it’s beautifully m
ad
co
, sealed b
all bearin mprise a hardene e.
either an
in
g
d
with Alle terference fit to th s, brass fittings (th
n-h
ey
e
support fr ead grub screws) shaft or are secure ’re
a
need sma me. In almost any and a diecast allo d
y
ll
a
vane, sm bearings and an a pplication where
all wind
you
xle (robo
g
tic
en
parts can
be put to erator, model car, s, a wind
use. Wha
well stan
t’s more, etc), these
da
they’re p
need two rdised across all
rett
V
a
collecting xles (or four beari HS VCRs, so if you y
ngs, etc) ju
!
st keep o
n
➎
Here’s what we have so far. At top left is the disassembled drum assembly. In
the centre at the top are 10 springs (nine extension and one compression), while
below that are 38 machine screws and 44 self-tapping screws. “He’s joking,”
you’re saying. “Why bother collecting the screws?” Well, you tell me which
local hardware store has small, plated, Phillips head self-tappers in stock? Or a
fine metric-thread Phillips head machine screw – just what you might need one
day as a replacement in a piece of gear you’re working on! At top right is a DC
brush-type permanent magnet motor which uses a worm gear to drive an output
shaft. It would make a perfect winch for a model boat, or it could be used to
slowly rotate a display.
siliconchip.com.au
Rat It Before You
Chuck It!
Whenever you throw away an old
TV (or VCR or washing machine or
dishwasher or printer) do you always
think that surely there must be some
good salvageable components inside?
Well, this column is for you! (And it’s
also for people without a lot of dough.)
Each month we’ll use bits and pieces
sourced from discards, sometimes in
mini-projects and other times as an
ideas smorgasbord.
And you can contribute as well. If you
have a use for specific parts which can
easily be salvaged from goods commonly being thrown away, we’d love
to hear from you. Perhaps you use the
pressure switch from a washing machine to control a pump. Or maybe you
salvage the high-quality bearings from
VCR heads. Or perhaps you’ve found
how the guts of a cassette player can
be easily turned into a metal detector.
(Well, we made the last one up but you
get the idea . . .)
If you have some practical ideas,
write in and tell us!
December 2005 83
➐
➏
Remember the PC boards we put to one side? Well, here
they are. Now I know what you’re thinking – he’s going
to tell us to get out the soldering iron and sucker and
laboriously unsolder every one of these trivial low-cost
components . . . and who’d bother wasting their day doing
that? Fair comment – and it’s not me who’ll be spending
the time. Instead, what I do is identify the bits that I’m
likely to have a use for and which cost more than just a few
cents to buy – parts like the colour-coded RCA sockets, the
high-power wirewound resistors and the high-value, small
package capacitors. And forget the soldering iron. All you
do is secure the PC board in a vice, aim a heat-gun at the
solder side and gently pull on the component you want to
remove with a pair of pliers. Using this method, it takes
just a minute or so to salvage 10 or 15 components – and
that’s time worth spending.
These are
ju
minutes w st some of the comp
ith a heatonents tha
g
t
0.22F sup
er-capacit un yielded. They in a few
or
clu
torches), fi
ve micro p (great for human-po de a
wered LED
ushbutton
LED bargra
sw
p
high-powe h display, nine RCA itches, a 2-channe
l
r resistors
sockets an
.N
capacitors
d
that also to ot shown are the 20 three
Incidentall
ok only m
electrolyti
o
y,
c
componen what you don’t no ments to remove.
w do with
ts is put th
these
em in a “ju
readily ac
ce
n
through a ss them when you n k box”. If you can’t
kilogram
eed them
of
(a
way to fin
d them!), y assorted componen nd sorting
ts is not th
o
in multi-c
u
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Also collected was an infrared pass filter (this photo was taken through it!), a
smoked plastic bezel, some high-power diodes, a drive belt and a heatsink. And
there were heaps of bits I chose to throw away – the mains power cord, a metal
sheet with punched ventilation holes (ie, the undercover), the rubber feet and
so on. In fact, the components that I salvaged can be cupped in two hands – and
that’s good! Good because it takes little room to store them and good because
only the most valuable bits were kept. So the next time you see a VCR on its way
to the tip, take a moment to think whether you could use any of the components
inside it.
The Latest From SILICON CHIP
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84 Silicon Chip
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siliconchip.com.au
“433” Revisited
We touched on 433434MHz wireless data
back in the July 2003
Picaxe article but here’s
an updated workout
focusing on the dirt
cheap “get you started”
modules now around.
by Stan Swan*
S
O YOU WANT to cut the cable clutter and go
wireless on your project? WiFi? Bluetooth?
ZigBee? Infrared? All offer very fast data
speeds but have “fish hooks”, not the least of which
is infrared’s need for a totally unobstructed link.
Or the other’s need for a computer or two!
So how about – gulp – just 2400 bps?! In an age
when wireless datacomms push speed boundaries
to WiFi’s “g” 54 Mega bps, such a few kilobits per second
may seem downright pedestrian and akin to dial-up modems in the XT/AT ’80s!
But when crucial data items need sending, for example to
unlock your car or raise the garage door, sheer speed is often
incidental to module size, convenience and reliability.
Naturally, tight budgets and ease of project integration
feature too. You don’t want to have to fire up a WiFi PC
every time you need to open the garage door !
New cheap modules
To cater for experiments with simple-but-reliable shortrange wireless control, Jaycar have recently released a
budget pair of 433MHz UHF wireless data modules suiting
both experienced users and even perhaps novices needing
stimulating “21st century crystal sets”.
Classic crystal sets of course were popular in the presemiconductors 1920s-50s and stimulated many a school
student (yes, myself included – again) into exploring
wireless mysteries when parts were costly and AM radio
was king.
Given the lament that today’s electronic goodies come
so pre-built that users lack investigative curiosity, these
433MHz units may be just the motivational ticket to crack
siliconchip.com.au
technical inertia. Everyone should build a “crystal set” at
least once!
Jaycar’s sub-$10, tiny stamp-sized ZW-3100 transmitter
and matching ZW-3102 receiver are similar to assorted
“key fob” ASK (Amplitude Shift Keying) OOK (On Off
Keying) serial data units that have of course been widely
marketed for some time.
Enhanced FM data transceiver multi-channel versions
costing A$30-$100 (such as those sold by Oatley Electronics) are better suited to more demanding or professional
data work, therefore have not been considered
We mentioned a TX433/RX433 pair from WA firm Computronics back in the July 2003 Picaxe datacomms article.
Typically retailing for just A$8 each, they’re often labelled
TWS/TLP and RWS/RLP 433 or the like via makers such
as Rentron or Laipac.
A Google on “433 ISM”, etc, will locate many offerings.
Superior Ming or Chipcon versions also exist but being
enhanced FM transceiver multi-channel versions, stretch
to more like A$40 – rather beyond the scope (and budget!)
of this article.
All occupy the 433.920MHz licence-free ISM (Industrial,
Scientific and Medical) UHF band actually some 1.7MHz
wide (433.050-434.790MHz). The alternative LIPD title
(Low Interference Potential Device) relates to the very low
December 2005 85
SUITABLE ANTENNA:
~170mm WHIP OR
YAGI
TRANSMITTER
(TO PC
SERIAL PORT)
CON2
DB9
C1
100nF
2
22k
3
10k
5
I/O
PINS
1
2
3
IC1
PICAXE-08M
4
7
0
330Ω
6
1
330Ω
5
8
2
330Ω
ON
λ
LED
λ
LED
3
λ
PIEZO
TRANSDUCER
(OPTIONAL)
10kΩ
433.92MHz
ISM
TRANSMITTER
MODULE
(JAYCAR
ZW-1300
OR SIMILAR)
ANT
+V
DATA
4.5V
GND
LED
4
4
1
RECEIVER
PIEZO
SOUNDER
(OR EVEN
32 Ω
PERSONAL
STEREO
HEADPHONE)
LED
433.92MHz ISM RECEIVER MODULE
(JAYCAR ZW-1302
OR SIMILAR)
+5V
DATA
DATA
GND
Using the cheap 433-434MHz modules (a
selection of which is shown on the previous
page, not far off life-size) really is child’s
play, especially when teamed up with our
new best friend, the Picaxe! Above is the
transmitter – the LEDs and their associated
resistors (plus of course the piezo) could
be considered optional if you want to keep
it simple. At right is the receiver – a single
transistor amplifier is all that is needed to
drive the piezo/headphone). It’s rough – but
it works more than satisfactorily!
SUITABLE ANTENNA:
~170mm WHIP OR
YAGI
ANT
GND
GND
+5V
8
C
B
10kΩ
E
DS547, etc
(ANY G/P NPN
TRANSISTOR)
ON
4.5V
power transmitter restriction of just 25mW. Most run even
offerings and for this alone Jaycar’s units may be worth
lower that this, with 5mW being typical! Although just ~1%
paying a little bit extra for (you can sometimes find similar
of cheap half watt 477MHz UHF CB sets, such flea power
items at disposals sources for perhaps $5-$8).
will normally still yield a range of a 20-50 metres in builtThey originate, as RXB1 and TXC1, from Taiwanese
up areas and even several hundred metres unobstructed.
makers Keymark (www.keymark.com.tw) and thankfully
A simple “cotanga” Yagi antenna, styled after the
turn out to be virtually pin-for-pin compatible with ear477MHz design shown in our February 2005 UHF CB article, can push
this to around a kilometre line of sight
(LOS), and may be especially useful for
crossing valleys or water (perhaps at a
marina or lake).
Although 433MHz is not so obstructed by buildings and trees as 2.4GHz
WiFi, the far lower power means
ranges, all up, are much the same.
Jaycar’s pair appeal both for their
rumoured superior performance and
– gasp – quality labelling! In a nanotechnology age when molecules can
be stacked like Lego, it’s most frustrating to be faced with devices devoid of
details that makers could have readily
silk-screened on.
Although a close inspection of the
units reveals many receiver pins are
duplicated and linked on the small PC
board, the multiple connections can
bewilder even old hands.
Knowing here “which pin does Here’s the Picaxe-powered 433MHz transmitter from the circuit above, mounted
what” is reassuring after confusion in our new “PICNIK” box. In this case, only one LED is included, driven by the
with absent markings on other 433MHz Picaxe data line which also drives the transmitter and piezo.
86 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
this has become the default Picaxe supply as well).
OK – power needs are now sorted out
and the modules fitted to our ever faithful
protoboards.
For those who’ve just come in and are
unaware of my enthusiasm(!) for Picaxe
microcontrollers, they really look the
data engine of choice for the 433MHz
modules.
I’ve recently been developing a more
compact and cheaper kit for the Picaxe
08M in fact and have managed to squeeze
these ISM units into the new Mk.2 PICNIK
box as well. See the ~800kB animated gif
“slide show” at www.picaxe.orcon.net.
nz/picnik2.gif
The initial supply detective work lead
to further productive tinkering with the
modules’ data lines.
The receiver protoboard is very simple, with just the module, one transistor,
one LED and one resistor – plus, of course, the external connections.
lier 433MHz ASK modules I’ve used. Simple swap-over
tests with the ZW-3102 receiver (being a quality Himark
RX3400-based PLL superhet rather than a super-regen)
showed it noticeably more sensitive than cheaper units,
which further justify the slightly higher price.
Don’t believe the specs!
Instead of “boring” old serial data, we
can have assorted tones, Morse beacons
and even tunes handled by these units!
A benefit of this is that any old UHF scanner can receive
the info as plain audio. Naturally, this may suit a hidden
transmitter “fox hunt”, a simple location/proximity beacon
or even audible telemetry and security.
Line of sight ranges were some 300m with simple
(¼-wave) 170mm whips, but to around 1km when paired
with a simple “cotanga” antenna (www.picaxe.orcon.
net.nz/yagi433.jpg) at the ZW-3102 receiver. The long
established “70cm” (420-450MHz) amateur band brackets
the ISM slot, meaning numerous sensitive UHF receivers
probably lurk in broom cupboards just awaiting such a
fresh task anyway.
In spite of other diverse warbling and croaking tone
signals at 433MHz, especially originating from keyless
car remotes (readily heard near a supermarket car park!),
the UHF spectrum has a low background noise level and
receivers can be very sensitive indeed.
It’s beyond the scope of this article to go into the maths
involved but below is a simple table relating RF (radio
frequency) signal strengths (in microvolts across a 50W
load) to dBm (milliwatt) and communication receiver “S”
readings.
A 6dB change is equivalent to signal strength (and thus
range) doubling or halving. Hence a simple 6dB gain “cotanga” Yagi should double distance, while a 12dB gain
antenna (feasible at this frequency) will “double x double”
Initial testing of the Jaycar units was most satisfactory,
in spite of misleading details provided in both their 2005
catalog (p73) and support web page.
The receiver doesn’t just run on the stated 3V but is instead designed for a nominal 5V supply – nicely handled
by three fresh alkaline or four NiMH AA cells, delivering
around 4.8V. Only very small currents of around 5mA are
taken (meaning batteries should last weeks).
Much lab and web sleuthing verified this supply and
the error must be causing lots of hassles to bright sparks
thwarted at 3V power-up stage.
Annoyingly the Jaycar support .pdf is mostly in Chinese,
limiting even the ready reading of diagrams unless language
extras are downloaded. Grrr... Fortunately I have several
Chinese-speaking (and reading!) students who were able
to help.
Happily, the receiver, in common with other such modules, runs well outside the “tight” 5V specification, to as
high as 6V or as low as 4.3V before cutout.
ISM receivers will normally end up mounted indoors
in a garage (or car etc) powered by a
mV
dBm
regulated supply but in contrast, the
companion transmitters are destined
50.0
-73
for portable key-fob mounts powered
8.0
-89
by small coin or 12V batteries.
4.0
-95
Because of the associated battery run
(2.24
-100)
down with use, the transmitter supply
2.0
-101
is usually much more flexible, and they
1.0
-107
were found to work to well between
0.5
-113
2V and 6V, with 12V even a possibil0.25
-119
0.125
-125
ity. A 4.5V (3 x AA) battery supply is
(0.1
-127)
ideal for them too (and conveniently
siliconchip.com.au
Abracadabra!
Traditional “S” Meter Reading
S9 (by definition)
S6
S5
S4
S3
S2
S1
S0
(a typical 434 Rx sensitivity)
(about the limit of Jaycar’s 434 module)
(about 1 strength “bar” on a scanner)
(almost lost in scanner background noise)
December 2005 87
2x
10kΩ
1kΩ
C
1kΩ
100nF
100nF
100nF
ON
OUTPUT
R2
10k
C
PIEZO
TRANSDUCER
(OPTIONAL)
B
B
2x
DS547, etc
E (ANY G/P NPN TRANSISTOR) E
4.5V
OSCILLATION FREQUENCY (f) ~
~ 700Hz
ANT
+V
ON
DATA
GND
10kΩ
INPUT
FROM
OSCILLATOR
6
2
8
ON
4
3
555
5
1
4.5V
100nF
OUTPUT
PIEZO
TRANSDUCER
(OPTIONAL)
4.5V
1.44
(R1 + 2R2) x C1
WITH VALUES SHOWN: f ~
~ 400Hz
If you want to drive a transmitter module direct (ie, without PICAXE
control), here’s how to do it. The two circuits above, with their protoboarded pics above that again, are for simple oscillators – at left is an
astable multivibrator which was one of the mainstays of oscillators
until the 555 timer came along (above right). As you can see, it is even
simpler and doesn’t cost much more – 555s are really cheap! The
curly wire disappearing from the photos is the antenna – a piece of
wire 170mm long. It’s curled to reduce the overall height.
At left is one of the transmitter modules wired to work directly from
the oscillator output, via the 100nF capacitor.
(or x 4) both this and signal strength.
Most of these cheap 433MHz ISM receivers have rated
sensitivities around -103dBm to -106dBm (about 1.5mV)
and although impressive (for the size and price!), the low
UHF spectrum noise means even a 1mV (-107dB) signal
is considered quite strong at these frequencies. Modern
radio scanners, or more professional ISM receivers, will
readily detect signals down to 0.15mV (~-124dBm) with
corresponding range extensions to perhaps several km.
Audio transmitter circuit
Any of the 433MHz transmitters are able to be turned
(and held) on by simply pulling their data input line high
with a 10kW resistor to the positive supply. Assorted tones
can then be fed into this input via a 100nF capacitor (for
DC isolation) and served to acceptably modulate the output
as FM, rather than the normal On/Off keying. Although
88 Silicon Chip
C1
120nF
7
OSCILLATION FREQUENCY (Hz) =
SUITABLE ANTENNA:
~170mm WHIP OR
YAGI
433.92MHz
ISM
TRANSMITTER
MODULE
(JAYCAR
ZW-1300
OR SIMILAR)
R1
10k
the transmitter could be supplied tones by a transistor
oscillator or 555 IC (refer to diagrams and pictures), such
an approach is now almost redundant given the versatility
of a Picaxe-08M instead.
Splutter – you’ve not heard of a Picaxe? Where have you
been? These darlings are now almost as indispensable as
can openers! Easy software readily rustles up pulsating
tones, Morse ID or even simple tunes (08M pin 2) and also
allows battery saving “sleep” power-downs.
Given the 20mA sink/source limit of a Picaxe, it is easily
able to deliver the 10mA needed. Even power to the entire
transmitter module can be controlled by an output (here
channel/pin 4), so as to further save batteries and make
hidden transmitter hunts more lively!
Check the pictures and schematic for the suggested
Morse ID layout and port across the code (433txcw.bas) to
the Picaxe-08M. For convenience the code can be copied
siliconchip.com.au
RECEIVER
TRANSMITTER
PIEZO OR
HEADPHONE
ANTENNA
(170mm)
A
LED
K
10kΩ
A G G +V
C
E
RECEIVER
MODULE
+V D D G
B
TRANSISTOR
4.5V
Protoboard wiring for the receiver (left) and transmitter (right).
The Picaxe needs to be coded with 433txcw.bas – and when you start to play with it, you can change the code to your
heart’s content. The Picaxe programming is done via the RS232 port on your PC – pins 5, 3 and 2 of the D9 connector
are used. If this is your first time with the remarkable Picaxe chips, refer to the Picaxe series run in SILICON CHIP
during 2003-2004. The piezo lets you hear the outgoing signal, if you wish.
and pasted from the web sites www.siliconchip.com.au or
www.picaxe.orcon.net.nz/433txcw.bas
Naturally adjust the beacon code to suit your ID needs
– it’s presently sending .... .. (Morse for “HI”) about every
10 seconds.
Audio receiver circuit
Again any of the 433MHz receiver offerings worked in
the simple setup shown. Outputs at the piezo sounder and
LED however were weak, so a very simple 1-transistor NPN
amplifier was used to boost these to acceptable levels. Of
course, this common emitter amplifier should have further
biasing resistors etc, but its performance was well suited
to the task here.
For convenience, even a 32-ohm personal stereo headphone could be used instead of the piezo. Note that the
circuit has no squelch, and thus background “hiss” may
annoy on weak signals and during transmitter power
down. Naturally, a more sophisticated UHF scanner will
address this.
Applications
We’ll extend these basic ISM circuits in a later article but
once working here, it’s suggested you use them initially for
simple “Easter Egg” hunting of hidden transmitters. Especially in a more open region such as a park, several hidden
“fox” transmitters – each sending different IDs – could be
activated for the “hounds” to locate. Simple (coiled) 170mm
whips can be body shielded (or even removed) when close
to the signal, although Yagi beams (see overleaf) offer fair
direction finding and triangulation.
NB: be careful of poking yourself in the eye with these
antenna elements when in scrub and bush – perhaps put
blobs of silicon seal or hot melt glue on the wire ends to
prevent this happening.
siliconchip.com.au
Are you into model aircraft/balloons/rockets? How about
a 433MHz beacon payload as well, perhaps with a white
LED for after-dark locating up a tree.
We’re not suggesting you pester your pets but a compacted (35mm film canister?) transmitter could even be
attached to a dog’s collar as a DF (direction finding) aid to
his whereabouts when chasing rabbits or other dogs!
Incidentally, since ACMA regulations specify 25mW
effective radiated power, it’s perhaps best to keep the transmitter antenna omni-directional to avoid infringing this
limit and put constructive zeal into the receiver antenna.
There’s no reason why the circuits have to be as large
as shown here – for more compact designs, the receiver
especially could be squeezed into a tiny case and powered
by a 9V battery suitably 7805-regulated to 5V.
You may not even need a PC board; just “dead bug” the
transistor and resistor to the receiver module!
The more involved (Picaxe-driven) transmitter could
even be powered by small PV cells, perhaps rescued from
cheap solar garden lamps now flooding hardware stores.
Most of these deliver 2V at 30mA in bright sun, so a couple
in series will power the entire transmitter, the Picaxe and
even charge a couple of NiMH cells for night-time duty.
Given the ease of linking in switches, LDRs, thermistors
and DS18B20 temperature sensors to a Picaxe-08M, it’d be
a breeze to rig up a simple security, proximity or telemetry
application sending distinctive audio tones.
Mmm – Hellschreiber? Naturally the fundamental DATA
handling nature of these 433MHz modules shouldn’t be
forgotten either. Stay tuned!
References
For convenience these are all hosted at web site www.
picaxe.orcon.net.nz/433txrx.htm
* s.t.swan<at>massey.ac.nz
December 2005 89
Want to build a quick-n-easy 433/434MHz Antenna?
Here’s the latest antenna that Stan Swan has come up with
for fox hunting and general 433/434MHz work. It’s a fourelement yagi built, of all things, from telescopic magnetic
pickup tools. They’re cheap and make the antenna very
easy to adjust. Gain is approximately 6dB.
Being a Yagi, it is directional – it transmits in, and receives
from, the direction of the arrow at the top of the picture. It has
a driven element, two directors (the shorter elements in front
of the driven element) and one reflector. The slight offset of
the elements won’t make much practical difference.
Since 433.92MHz signals have a conveniently compact wavelength of 692mm (300,000,000/433,920,000),
all manner of desktop-sized UHF antenna can be readily rustled up using common materials and household
tools. The short coax lead to your 433 RX module can
be just video grade that’s probably already at hand as
well – however, don’t pinch the family TV antenna cable!
For transmitting work, strict attention to impedance
matching and the like is needed, but for reception (as
here) things can be dead simple. For openers, consider a
convenient telescopic element Yagi made from magnetic
pickup tools, allowing easy tweaking of element lengths
that compact for storage.
Element group spacings (starting from the rear reflector) of 123mm, 110mm and 159mm are not critical, but
match those of our earlier rigid “cotanga” version. Ensure
the driven element pair are NOT touching but that the
centres of the other pairs DO connect – perhaps with
wire or solder to the (chromed) brass tubes.
An even simpler RDF (Radio Direction Finding) style
loop can be suprisingly effective too.
Simply cut and shape some sturdy wire to suit (it
doesn’t have to be an exact circle!) and secure to the
coax via “chocolate block” connector strip. Initially, try a
wavelength (692mm) but snip the wire shorter – perhaps
to eventually 650mm – and retest.
Such loops are best suited for finding a “null” when
pointing at the transmitter, since they’re bi-directional.
Simply step aside some distance for another bearing that
should confirm the true direction by triangulation.
A “body shielding” technique can be useful too – just
hold the antenna close to your chest while you slowly
revolve. The weakest signals should be when your back
is to the transmitter and you are facing away from it. In
built-up areas, many reflections from metallic objects may
confuse this a bit!
90 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Here’s what you’ll need:
8 telescopic magnetic pickup tools (we sourced ours
from a bargain shop for $2.00 each)
1 length PVC builder’s channel (about half a metre – make
sure you don’t use a metal channel!)
1 “chocolate block” terminal block (2-way)
8 solder lugs
Hidden transmitter RDF techniques can be very sophisticated but fun – there’s even talk that they may lead to a
new Olympic orienteering sport!
We suggest that you refer to the references back in the
“433” article for more insights.
At a serious level, they’ve found extensive use homing in
on 121.5/243MHz EPIRB (Emergency Position Indicating
Radio Beacon) emergency channels – such as “man overboard” or even boat sinking, lost bushwalker or emergency
crashed aircraft beacons.
Incidentally, by 2009 the service will become GEOSsatellite based on 406.025MHz, speeding response and
reducing the legendary false alarm rate.
At present, a common RDF chore involves using a
direction finding antenna and receiver to locate which
of the safely parked (and usually locked!) aircraft has
accidently-activated its 121.5MHz when the pilot made a
little-rougher-than-normal landing...
siliconchip.com.au
8 screws to suit the end of the magnetic pickup tools
(if the tools don’t come with them)
Short lengths of hookup or tinned copper wire
Suitable length 75W coax cable (thin is easiest to
handle but is usually lossiest at UHF)
Insulation tape (to secure coax to ducting
Construction
This is a very easy antenna to construct because
the dimensions aren’t critical. And it has a couple of
major advantages over other types: (a) the telescopic
“whips” can be fully closed for transportation; and
(b) the large knobs on the of the antennas make poking
eyes out or other injuries less likely (cut coathanger
wires can be quite dangerous).
The telescopic whips mount right through the edges
of the ducting – drill one side to suit the whip diameter;
the other to suit the screw diameter. Try to mount them
as close as possible while keeping a bit of “meat” around
the holes so they don’t break.
The halves of each director and reflectors need to
connect electrically (that’s the point of the short length
of wire under the solder lugs). However, the driven
element halves must not touch – if necessary insulate
SC
them with tape.
December 2005 91
PRODUCT SHOWCASE
Electronics Workbench “designSUITE” Freeware
For the first time, Electronics
Workbench, represented in
Australia by Emona Instruments, has released a
freeware edition of its complete suite of tools. Called
designSUITE, the software
is based on the PowerProfessional versions of Multicap,
Multisim, Ultiboard and Ultiroute.
The software covers schematic
capture, circuit simulation (SPICE,
VHDL and patented co-simulation),
PCB layout and autorouting. Users
benefit from truly unique product
features, industry-leading ease-of-use
and complete integration between
the tools that comprise their product
suites. SUU, the Support and Upgrade
Utility, automatically checks for and
installs software updates over the web,
ensuring that software is always
at its most capable level.
designSUITE is not a
“demo version” – the
only restrictions in this
version relate to project
size (50 components, 750
pins and two layers).
designSUITE will provide you with the flexibility
you need to complete real
projects and produce boards right
through the entire design flow.
For your free copy, contact Emona
Instruments via the website or phone
number below.
Contact:
Emona Instruments
Tel: 1800 632 953
Website: www.emona.com.au/
pages/shareware.htm
No room for a mouse? Try a pen!
H e r e ’s s o m e t h i n g
different: Microgram’s
2.4GHz wireless mouse
pen with 1000 DPI resolution and a built-in rechargeable Li battery.
The Pen Mouse comes
with a rubberised grip,
plug-and play USB interface, 10-metre transmission
distance, non-disruptive
USB charging technology,
and Blue-Light optics.
The writing-style operation,
controlled by the fingers, wrist and
palm, is natural, easy, and smooth.
The linear footing design works on
almost any non-reflective surfaces –
it even works on your leg!
It has a recommended retail price
of $107 (Cat No 9287).
Contact:
Microgram Computers
DSE’s Flexitimer kit
looks a treat!
If you’re considering building the
Flexitimer (SILICON CHIP, August
2005) you’ll go a long way to find a
more professional-looking kit than
the one Dick Smith Electronics’ Kit
Department has turned out.
Forced to go for a slightly larger
box than the original due to a larger
display, DSE’s Bill de Rose said that
it’s a bonus, because it makes the
project that much easier to build.
Electrically it is as per the published project. And he says their kit
really looks the part as well!
We have to agree that the DSE kit
is very professional in appearance.
It’s now available from all Dick
Smith Electronics stores for $99.00
(Cat K-3580)
Contact:
1/14 Bon Mace Cl, Berkeley Vale 2261
Tel: (02) 4389 8444 Fax: (02) 4389 8388
Website: www.microgram.com.au
Dick Smith Electronics (all stores)
PO Box 500, Regents Park DC NSW 2143.
Tel: 1300 366 644 Fax: (02) 9642 9155
Website: www.dse.com.au
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JED
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PC PROM
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programmer and RS232/RS485 converters.
world-renowned
specialist
manufacturer.
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Tel:(07)
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Fax: (07)
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ilicon hip
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SILICON CHIP
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Want your product or service featured both
here and on the SILICON CHIP website for the
one low price?
Contact Phil Benedictus or Lawrence Smith
on (02) 9211 9792 for all the details!
92 S
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Jed Microprocessors Pty Ltd
TeleLink Communications
WebLINK: jedmicro.com.au
WebLINK: telelink.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
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Satellite TV Guide now in 5th edition
Satellite TV specialists AV-Comm
have submitted their new 5th edition
“Practical Guide to Satellite TV”.
AV-Comm have been around since
the dawn of satellite TV in Australia
(in fact, Technical Director Garry Cratt,
who wrote this book, has become one
of Australia’s leading authorities on
the subject).
Much of his knowledge appears in
this book, which in the 5th edition has
grown to some 179 pages and covers
everything from the very beginnings
of satellites right through to installing
your own system.
It is this latter area in particular
which has seen a vast expansion, both
in the real world and in this book. If
STEPDOWN
TRANSFORMERS
60VA to 3KVA encased toroids
you ever wanted
to know anything
about putting up
your own system, this is the
one reference
you must have.
It’s great value at $49 from
all Jaycar stores
or direct from
Av-Comm.
Contact:
AV-Comm Pty Ltd
PO Box 225, Brookvale NSW 2100.
Tel: (02) 9939 4377 Fax: (02) 9939 4376
Website: www.avcomm.com.au
Harbuch Electronics Pty Ltd
9/40 Leighton Pl. HORNSBY 2077
Ph (02) 9476-5854 Fx (02) 9476-3231
Need really clean air? You need a Clean-Air . . .
Duplex Cleaning Machines have
just released the Clean-Air super
quiet, HEPA triple filtration vacuum
cleaner, specifically designed for
Laboratories and Clean Rooms.
Traditional vacuum cleaners actually suck tiny dust particles, mitefaeces, pollen and bacteria from the
floor and exhaust them straight into
the air.
These nasty dangerous particles
can be airborne for up to 24 hours,
meaning they have a high probability
of being inhaled by other staff and
you.
Once inhaled, the particles can
trigger asthma and other respiratory
problems, as well as disrupting work
throughout laboratories and clean
rooms.
The Clean-Air triple filtration system filters particles up to 0.03 of a
micron (three one-thousandths of a
millimetre), which captures 99.997%
of all dust particles, mite faeces and
pollen particles.
More importantly, the Clean-Air
Vacuum filters are treated with a new
patented system called “ALLERGYGUARD” which kills bacteria and
microbial life forms on contact. This
is the only vacuum cleaner in Australia
which has AllergyGuard bacterial
protection.
To put it into perspective, the air
in the room is of much higher quality
to breathe after vacuuming with the
Clean-Air than before.
Engineered with super absorbent
materials to decrease noise levels, with
the flick of a switch, the Clean-Air twin
speed motor can be turned from super
quiet to ultra quiet mode, so as not to
disturb other staff.
In this mode, the Clean-Air is so
quiet that it will not disturb a person
speaking on the telephone while the
vacuum cleaner is being used in the
same room. This means cleaning can
be completed during normal business
hours.
Contact:
Duplex Cleaning Machines Pty Ltd
PO Box 259, Clifton Hill, Vic 3068.
Tel: (03) 9482 4900 Fax: (03) 9482 4940
Website: www.duplexcleaing.com.au
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We supply
Radiometrix
& UHF
radio SC WEBLINK
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everything
in radioSCcontrol
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daily, with
over
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monitoring. We also stock low cost easy to
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use Bluetooth
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extensive
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flight SC
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secure
online ordering
facility.
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programmable
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include semiconductor data
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RF accesssories.
autopilot
and
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software
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Low Power
Radio Modules.
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888 SC WEBLINK SC WEBLINK SC WEBLINK SC WEBLINK SC WEBLINK SC WEBLINK
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3517SC WEBLINK
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ecember
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siliconchip.com.au
Silvertone
Silvertone Electronics
Electronics
JAYCAR
JAYCAR ELECTRONICS
ELECTRONICS
RF Modules Australia
WebLINK:
www.silvertone.com.au
WebLINK:
silvertone.com.au
WebLINK:
WebLINK: www.jaycar.com.au
www.jaycar.com.au
WebLINK: www.rfmodules.com.au
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Earn $$$$ from your passion for electronics!
With the release of the Jaycar 2005
Catalog in April, the Technical Forum
on the Jaycar website (www.jaycar.
com.au; www.jaycar.co.nz) was given
a new lease on life, including the
introduction of cash rewards for outstanding responses.
The Jaycar TechForum provides an
online meeting room for like-minded
electronics enthusiasts. Users are
encouraged to share their technical
knowledge by posting questions and
queries about electronics projects,
which can then be responded to by
other members.
The type of queries and responses
vary from hints and tips for beginners to technical conversations on
electronic problems and projects. The
Jaycar online community is friendly
with many regulars and several newcomers joining everyday.
Cash rewards are now offered for the
responses that are judged to have given
the most accurate and helpful advice
Tiny IP68 transformers
are submersible
Brilliant
Lighting
have extended
their Garden Lighting range
with the
introduction of five new IP68 240 to
12V Garden Light Transformers.
With three different sizes, secondary output ratings are from 105 to
400VA.
Rated IP68 under AS 1939 (IEC 529),
the transformers have very high protection against the ingress of dust and
can be subject to prolonged immersion
under water in specific conditions up
to 1.5m. This makes them also ideal
for use with pond lighting but they can
also be buried under ground.
The transformers are small in comparison to other units of similar output
ratings and being black in colour, are
also camouflaged somewhat when
installed in the garden.
Contact:
Brilliant Lighting
956 Stud Road, Rowville Vic 3178
Tel: 1800 817 754
94 Silicon Chip
to a tricky question. Prizes include
a $100 monthly, $500 quarterly and
$1,000 annual rewards.
Winning responses need to be concise, accurate and, most of all, helpful.
For example:
Q – I bought a 100 watt inverter to
take camping. The unit works fine
when I am running my TV but fails
when I try to power my twin 40W
fluoro lights.
A – I would bet that you have a
modified sine wave (stepped squarewave) inverter. The problem is almost
certainly that the “ballast-startercapacitor” (usually 5uF or more) in
the fluoro is drawing too much ‘startup’ current and shutting the inverter
down. The capacitor is not required in
this situation so you can just remove
it and all should be fine.
The inaugural monthly winner, with
a prize of $100, is a regular contributor
to the site whom all TechForum members would be familiar with: “Jay Cee”.
Jay Cee has enthusiastically replied to
many queries on a range of topics that
clearly demonstrate his knowledge of
electronics. Congratulations Jay Cee –
$100 cash is coming your way!
The prize will be personally awarded by the Jaycar Managing Director,
Gary Johnston.
Jaycar encourages all SILICON CHIP
readers to join the Jaycar TechForum
to share their electronics knowledge
with other members and potentially
win one of the cash prizes. You can
enter as many times as you like – in
fact, it is encouraged!
The Jaycar TechForum is your
opportunity to do a good deed, and
maybe make some money for your
efforts.
Contact:
Jaycar Electronics
PO Box 6424, Silverwater NSW 1811.
Tel: 1800 022 888 Fax: (02) 9741 8500
Website: www.jaycar.com.au
ExpressCard-GPIB Controller for High-Speed,
Portable Instrument Control
Engineers now can use the National Instruments ExpressCard-GPIB
controller for high-speed instrument
control on a laptop computer.
The new controller is the latest
NI product for portable GPIB control, which also includes PCMCIA
and USB, and further broadens the
company’s unparalleled portfolio of
instrument control products for the
most popular buses and operating
systems.
NI ExpressCard-GPIB offers direct
control of GPIB instruments from
laptop computers with an ExpressCard slot. ExpressCard is the nextgeneration laptop interface that
comes standard on many new laptop
computers.
ExpressCard host slots can accept
modules based on either USB 2.0 or
PCI Express. The NI ExpressCardGPIB controller incorporates a highperformance NI TNT GPIB ASIC and
a Hi-Speed USB chip to communicate
with GPIB instruments at transfer
rates of up to 8 MB/s.
The NI ExpressCard-GPIB controller interface is transparent to
software applications and drivers,
so engineers can run existing GPIB
applications on the new controller
with no changes. The controller
comes with NI-488.2 for Windows
2000/XP driver software and a 2 m
GPIB cable.
It works with the NI LabVIEW
graphical development environment, the NI LabWindows/CVI
ANSI C development environment,
and Microsoft Visual Studio (Visual
Basic/C/C++/C#) through NI-488.2
and NI-VISA driver software.
Pricing is from $US599, with
more specific info from http://sine.
ni.com/nips/cds/view/p/lang/en/
nid/202353
SC
Contact:
National Instruments (Australia)
PO Box 382, North Ryde NSW 2113
Tel: 1800 300 800 Fax: (02) 8572 5290
Website: www.ni.com
siliconchip.com.au
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• This is a highly rated speaker system which will give very
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Sound advice call 08 8295 4271
or visit our website www.kitaudio.com
Prices start from $995.00 (also available fully assembled).
There is no substitute for acoustic excellence.
XL-02
Custom-made Lithium Ion, NiCd
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Smart Chargers
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High-quality single cell chargers
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December 2005 95
PIC In-Circuit
Programming
Add-On
By KEITH ANDERSON
Does your PIC programmer have provision
for in-circuit programming? Some such
as Microchip’s PICSTART Plus don’t but
you can add this useful function to your
programmer by building a simple adaptor!
O
FTEN, THE EASIEST way to program a PIC is to remove it from its
circuit and plug it into an appropriate
programmer. However, when developing new projects, this can become a
real chore and so professional developers use a range of tools that allow
programming and even debugging
without removing the micro from the
application circuit. Microchip refers
to this method of programming as
In-Circuit Serial Programming (ICSP).
WARNING!
This adaptor was designed and
tested for use with Microchip’s PICSTART Plus programmer, which
allows all PICs to be inserted with
pin 1 aligned to pin 1 of the programming socket.
Some low-cost programmers
lack this flexibility and require the
smaller PICs to be inserted with
pin 1 in some location other than
the socket’s pin 1. This unit will not
work with this type of programmer!
96 Silicon Chip
While not all low-cost programmers support in-circuit programming,
some can be modified to do so. Hobby
programmers are usually supplied as
kits, so it is often possible to solder
wires to appropriate places within the
circuit for connection to the application circuit’s ICSP header. However,
this method is not general to all programmers.
The method used here is to plug
an adaptor into the socket on the programmer. The adaptor picks off the
programming signals and makes then
available for connection to the application circuit, just like a “real” ICSP
programmer. The programmer still
“thinks” it is programming a PIC in the
socket, when in fact it is programming
the PIC in the application circuit.
connections, which are: DATA, CLK,
MCLR/VPP, VDD, and GND. The suggested connector layout (Fig.1) uses
a 6-pin dual-in-line header (Farnell
302-1427), with a spare pin available
for other uses.
The circuit example in Fig.2 shows
how the connector might be hooked
into your PIC-based designs. Note that
a switch must be inserted in series with
the positive supply (VDD) to the PIC,
so that either the application circuit
or programmer can provide power. By
controlling power to the PIC micro,
the programmer is able to generate the
necessary supply sequencing during
the programming cycle.
A 3-pin jumper could be used in
place of the switch to save money
and minimise use of board space.
The switch (or jumper) must be
downstream from all filter/decoupling
capacitors and positioned as close as
possible to the PIC’s VDD pin.
ICSP adaptor
The circuit for the adaptor is shown
in Fig.3. The large 28-way header
Adding programming support
If your PIC-based project is to support in-circuit programming, then you
must include a suitable connector
on the PC board to accept the ICSP
signals from the programmer. A minimum of five connections is required
to carry the ICSP and power/ground
Fig.1: if you want to program your
PIC in-circuit, you must include an
ICSP header on your board. Here
are the recommended pinouts for
the header.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.2: this simplified circuit shows how to include the ICSP
header in your projects. If the RB6 & RB7 port bits are used
as inputs or to drive low-impedance outputs, some form of
isolation will be required, otherwise the CLK and DATA signals
from the programmer will be overloaded. In some cases, this
can be as simple as two 1kW resistors. If possible, don’t use
RB6 & RB7 for any other purpose in your design – that way,
you won’t need to add isolation circuitry.
Fig.3: the circuit for the adaptor. Note
that the ICSP signals for each family (8,
18 & 28/40-pin) originate from different
pins on the programming socket.
(comprised of J1 & J2) plugs into
the programmer’s socket, with the
ICSP signals made available on
one of three 6-pin headers (J3-J5)
for connection to the application
circuit, depending on the type of
PIC in use.
Somewhat fortuitously, Microchip assign the pins required for
This view shows how the 28-way header
the ICSP functions consistently, so
pins protrude through the PC board.
that most of the range of PICs can
be grouped into just three families:
8-pin, 18-pin and 28-pin (to the
very simple; just make sure that you
programmer, 40-pin PICs look like
insert the 6-pin headers (J3-J5) into
28-pin PICs).
the PC board the right way around.
A 6-pin header is provided on the The arrow on the header must line up
adaptor for each family type. Con- with the square pad (pin 1) on the PC
nection to the application circuit is board in each case.
made with a short length of 6-way IDC
A cunning trick is needed to install
cable, terminated on each end with a the two 20-way SIL header strips (J1 &
6-way IDC socket (Farnell 302-2109). J2) when using a single-side PC board.
Unlike some ICSP adaptors, the use of Insert each header “upside down” in
a specific header (rather than jumpers its holes, so that the long ends of the
or switches) for each family of PICs pins protrude from the underside of
provides a simple visual indication the PC board (see photo).
of correct device selection!
A little extra pin length can be obtained by pushing each pin through
Assembly
the plastic until the top is flush
A PC board (coded 07112051) is with the top of the plastic. Obviavailable for this design. Assembly is ously, this must be done before the
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.4: overlay diagram and full-size
PC-board pattern for the adaptor.
Ideally, the adaptor should be
produced in double-sided, platedthrough PC board technology, but it
can also be assembled on a singlesided board with a little trickery.
pins are soldered to the PC board.
The ICSP cable must not be more
than 300mm long, although 190mm
is recommended for best results. The
prototype was tested with a PICSTART
Plus programmer and a couple of repSC
resentative circuits.
December 2005 97
Vintage Radio
By RODNEY CHAMPNESS, VK3UG
Ray Kelly and the HRSA
The Historical Radio Society of Australia (HRSA)
is the national association of vintage radio
enthusiasts in Australia, with approximately 1100
members. It is by far the largest group representing
vintage radio enthusiasts in Australia. Ray Kelly
was instrumental in its founding and continues to
be a crucial member to this day.
In the late 1960s and early 1970s,
some Australians came to realise that
we, as a nation, were destroying the
records and artefacts of our nation’s
history and heritage. For example,
old sailing ships were left to rot, to be
burnt or dismantled. “They are useless, so let’s get rid of them”, was the
attitude of most people at that time.
Many other aspects of our history
were also considered irrelevant and
many references and physical examples of those aspects were discarded
if not destroyed. However, there were
enough people throughout Australia
who could see that this was totally
wrong and our history and heritage
was worthy of retaining and restoring,
so they set about raising the level of
interest in our past.
Our radio heritage was also being
lost at an alarming rate, with most
superseded and defective radios ending up in the local municipal tip after
being replaced. However, a number
of individuals decided that our radio
heritage was worthy of retaining and
set about collecting and restoring old
radios. Doing this in isolation is not
very effective as there is only so much
any one person can do. One person
on their own cannot know all there
is to know, or needs to be known, to
preserve a representative offering of
our radio heritage.
A small number of collectors became known to each other and communicated on an ad hoc basis. Len
Davenport in Alice Springs was keenly
interested in vintage radio and even
established his own museum in Alice
Springs. Called “The Magic Spark”, it
attracted quite a lot of interest until
Len’s death, whereupon it was closed.
However, some time before his death,
Len was keen to see the establishment
of a national radio society. He believed
that Alice Springs was not suitable for
the activities of such a group.
Len and Ray Kelly could see that
there could be room for a national vintage radio association. Ray contacted
Morris O’Brien in San Remo to obtain a
list of people who had obtained valves
to restore old radios. Morris used to
advertise valves for sale in magazines
such as Radio & Hobbies, so he had a
good contact list. Ray contacted the
people on that list, as well as the list
supplied by Len, a total of around 35
people.
There were sufficient replies from
around Australia to warrant convening a meeting, held at Ray’s home in
Melbourne on the 17th April, 1982.
The HRSA was born on that day, with
Ray taking on the position of Secretary
and member number 1. The initial
membership was 25.
Ray Kelly
This rather decorative piece is a 1937 Weldon clock radio. Pieces like this are
highly collectible.
98 Silicon Chip
Without Ray’s enthusiasm and
drive, the HRSA may not have been
established or it may have been delayed for some years, during which
much of our irreplaceable radio history
siliconchip.com.au
This rather unusual horn loudspeaker is branded “Dictogrand” and was made
in the USA.
Ray Kelly with his English-made
“Chinese Scribe” horn speaker.
may have been lost. Ray’s life history
itself shows why the HRSA got off to
such a good start.
Ray Kelly was born in Cessnock,
NSW, in December 1920 and spent his
formative years there. At school, he
obtained sub-intermediate standard,
which was quite a high standard for
the 1930s. His interest in radio started
when he built a crystal set as a 12 yearold. In fact, most young lads started
by building a crystal set. They were
the cheapest radios to build and cost
nothing to run. Their reception range
was limited but Ray put up a good
enough antenna and earth system so
that several stations were received.
Neighbours and the local radio shop
(though they weren’t always aware of
it) helped this enthusiastic young lad
by supplying him with valves and
other odds and ends. The radio shop
routinely threw out valves that they
considered unserviceable and Ray
“rescued” them from the rubbish.
Over the next few years, he was to
build one and 2-valve sets and ultimately, a 7-valve superhet receiver,
as described in an issue of Wireless
Weekly in 1933. As Ray remembers
it, the set had an RF stage, autodyne
converter, a 175kHz intermediate frequency amplifying section, a 55 as a
second detector and audio stage, and
a pair of 59 valves in push-pull. It was
siliconchip.com.au
A collection of Morse keys, sounders and other telegraph equipment from Ray’s
time in the Post Office.
a popular, good performing receiver,
as Ray remembered it.
On leaving school, Ray started work
as a telegraph messenger at the Cessnock Post Office. This was a temporary
position and when he turned 16, the
only opportunity to join the permanent
staff was to become a male telephonist
at the West Maitland telephone exchange. This was a manual exchange
employing around 25 women as tele
phonists. However, the PMG did not
consider it right for them to work
through the night so they employed
young men to man the switchboard
from around 10.30pm to 7.30am.
On alternate weeks, the young men
worked a short shift with the women.
“At the age of 18, perhaps they were
considered a hazard to the ladies”,
according to Ray, so they were given
other jobs and Ray was transferred
back to Cessnock as a postman.
RAAF enlistment
In 1941, he saw an advertisement
in a paper for enlistment in the RAAF
as a radio mechanic. He believed that
his interest in radio should be of value
when he applied. He was accepted
but he found that they really wanted
people to learn about the very “hushDecember 2005 99
Here are just some of the items in Ray’s collection: (1) top row left to right – Ethovox “Junior” horn speaker, Claritone
horn speaker, G. A. Vanderveldt type Allison horn speaker, RCA model 103 cone speaker with tapestry grille, Bullphone
horn speaker, an Ericsson horn speaker, a Marconi 9A11 UK horn speaker and a Philips cone speaker. (2) middle row left
to right – Udisco 3-valve battery radio, a Keogh radio (a rare Australian brand only made in 1928), a Hartman American
battery radio and a little RCA Radiola III 2-valve battery set (circa 1924). (3) bottom row left to right: an RCA model 17
(their first AC model using 26s a 27 and currently a 171A output) and a Udisco 5-valve neutrodyne.
An Ericsson Magneto telephone (circa
1905). It reminds Ray of his working
days in telephone exchanges.
100 Silicon Chip
hush” radar, not radio. He trained at
what is now called RMIT in Melbourne
and then at Richmond in NSW.
The RAAF subsequently sent Ray
to postings in Australia, New Guinea
and several of the Pacific Islands.
When he was on Goodenough Island
(between us and the Japanese!), the
operators could detect the Japanese
aircraft about 130km away, soon after
they took off from their base.
The radar had a range of up to 130
miles (200km) and they would track
the Japanese planes and alert Australian forces on the mainland of the likely
target of the Japanese attack, via coded
radio signals. As a result, in many
cases, it was the Japanese fliers who
were surprised and not the Australian
populace. According to Ray, the Japanese never woke up to the fact that the
Australians had very effective radar,
which in fact worked better than the
American radars of the time.
After the war, he was sent back to
the post office as a postman; not quite
the job for a keen and experienced
radio/radar man. After some months,
he got the opportunity to go into the
telephone section of the PMG. Back
until the early 1970s, the post office
and the telephone system all came
under the control of the PMG (Postmaster General’s) department and it
was possible to shift between the two
sections of the organisation.
The opportunity then presented
itself to apply for the radio section of
the PMG. During the war Ray had met
his prospective wife and in 1947 they
married. At this time, Ray obtained a
position at the ABC radio studios at
the corner of William and Lonsdale
streets Melbourne. He worked as a
control booth operator (CB operator)
and later in the recording section,
dealing with disc recordings. This was
before the era of tape recorders, which
did not achieve any real quality until
the mid-1950s.
Acetate recordings were difficult to
make. There was only one “take” when
siliconchip.com.au
making the recordings so you had to
be right first time, whether you were
the artist or the technician. Most of
the radio serials in the 1940s and 50s
were on 16-inch transcription discs.
In addition to the recording work,
Ray worked in what was called the
switch-room where the programs
were switched between studios, land
lines and transmitters. A stint in the
PMG Material Testing Laboratory also
proved to be interesting for Ray.
Radio Australia
Around 1950, Ray got a promotion
to Radio Australia at Shepparton,
where he was a shift supervisor. At
that stage, there were three transmitters
which were labour-intensive to run
and operate. Each shift consisted of
five people, as these transmitters were
not frequency-agile. About 15 minutes
was allocated for the five on shift to
prepare a transmitter for operation on
another radio-frequency band. Coils
and capacitors for each stage had to be
changed, a fresh crystal selected for the
radio frequency oscillator and a fresh
antenna selected, if need be.
Today, at Shepparton, a total of two
minutes is allowed for antenna and
frequency changes for up to three transmitters at one change, with perhaps
only one operator in attendance.
Ray’s wife did not like the amount
of shift work involved at Radio Australia so, after about five years, Ray obtained a position with the Australian
Broadcasting Control Board (ABCB).
While this didn’t involve shift-work,
it did involve trips away from home
A few more of the horn speakers in Ray’s collection (left to right): an Amplion
AR19 horn speaker, an Amplion AR111 horn speaker, an American Electric
horn speaker with possibly ebonite petals, and an S. G. Brown (English) model
H horn speaker.
for extended periods. Ray stayed with
the ABCB until he retired on health
grounds around 1976, three years after
the death of his wife Betty.
Ray had many interesting jobs in
the ABCB, doing field strength tests on
broadcasting stations, station inspections and field surveys for new stations, all of which was very interesting
work for an enthusiastic radio man.
Ray remembers that it was usual to
notify a radio station of an impending
station inspection. Often the inspection would be made and all would be
This is the frame only from an American “Pirate Ship” cone
speaker. It makes an interesting wall hanging.
siliconchip.com.au
working well. But after the inspection
had been completed, the operators
would take out the new valves and the
old weak valves were refitted, to wring
the last bit of life out of them.
Spot checks would have caught
many radio stations with equipment
well below expected performance
levels!
One particular field test for a new
television station transmitter was done
near Cairns in Queensland, where access to suitable mountain tops was not
possible by road or track. To do the
The Philips “Theatrette” was made in England. A version
was produced in Australia by Briton Electrical and Radio.
December 2005 101
Photo Gallery: A.G.E Bandmaster Duette
The medium-wave A.G.E Bandmaster Duette receiver was manufactured
by AWA around 1935. It used an identical chassis to the model 28 “Empire
State” and came in a walnut veneer cabinet.The valve line-up was as follows:
6D6-G, 6A7-G, 6B7-G, 42 and 80. The name “Bandmaster” was in later years
also attached to the “Hotpoint” brand, both being made by AWA. Restored
by Maxwell L. Johnson; photo by Ross Johnson.
tests a DCA aircraft was hired and a
100-watt VHF transmitter fitted to it.
A monitoring receiver was used at a
number of critical spots over a period
of time and the transmitter was left
running while the aircraft flew over
the top of the mountain at 500 feet.
When the mountain was being crossed,
Ray called the monitoring site to take
a signal strength reading.
This was a ground-breaking procedure in Australia at that time but has
become more common now as it saves
time and money. Although the site
proved to be excellent for a television
transmitting station, access was so difficult that it was not used.
Ray’s collecting history
Around 1972, in the course of his
102 Silicon Chip
work with the ABCB, Ray Kelly inspected 3BA Ballarat. It was the station’s 40th anniversary and there was
a display of sets from the time of its
inception. The station operators had
advertised for old radios of the era and
many listeners provided them with
suitable sets. This sparked Ray’s interest in the collection and restoration
of old radios, although this remained
dormant until after he had retired from
the ABCB.
Ray seriously started to collect and
restore sets from around 1978. He
visited auctions and other sales and
bought many sets at quite low prices,
although some sets did require digging
into his pocket rather deeply. His initial and continuing interest was and is
in 1920s and 1930s receivers and old
speakers, particularly horn speakers of
which he has quite a collection.
Ray’s favourite set is an AWA Radiola 45E Console from 1931 which is
a TRF with two RF stages, detector/first
audio and audio output. Other favourites are a “Buddha Speaker” (which
although not completely original is
nearly so), a tapestry speaker and a
circa 1905/7 Ericsson wall telephone.
The photographs accompanying this
article show many rare pieces of radio
history that he has collected.
But while Ray Kelly is still a keen
collector, his main activity over the last
20 years has been the HRSA. As noted
above, he was the inaugural secretary
of the HRSA and he did take his turn
as president later on.
Over the 20-plus years that the
HRSA has been in existence, he has always been highly involved in the running of the association and providing
information to members. He has been
a technical editor for the newsletter
for many years and provides copies of
circuits to other members. Ray must
have the most extensive collection
of circuit information of any vintage
radio buff.
He was also the editor of the Newsletter which was produced four times
per year, commencing in July 1982
with seven pages. It was produced
using a Gestetner machine (does
anyone remember these rather messy
machines)?
By 1985, it was an A5-sized publication of up to 24 pages and was
being produced on a typewriter and
then copied; computers were not all
that common at that time. In October
1994, the Newsletter was succeeded
by Radio Waves, an A4-sized magazine
which typically has 40 pages.
To further assist HRSA members,
Ray compiled about 12 books of circuits and other helpful information for
vintage radio collectors.
Summary
Ray’s life outside of his family has
revolved around radio and television.
He enthusiastically embraced each
new technology and experience in the
field of electronics as it came along.
He has also made sure our important
Australian radio heritage has not been
lost, hence his contribution to vintage
(heritage) radio is well recognised by
his peers. Ray Kelly may not consider
himself the father of the HRSA but
SC
many do.
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SILICON
For the latest titles and information, please refer to our website books page: www.siliconchip.com.au/Shop/Books
PIC MICROCONTROLLERS: know it all
SELF ON AUDIO
Multiple authors $85.00
The best of subjects Newnes authors have written over the past few years,
combined in a one-stop maxi reference. Covers introduction to PICs and their
programming in Assembly, PICBASIC, MBASIC & C. 900+ pages.
PROGRAMMING and CUSTOMIZING THE
PICAXE By David Lincoln (2nd Ed, 2011) $65.00*
A great aid when wrestling with applications for the PICAXE
See
series of microcontrollers, at beginner, intermediate and
Review
April
advanced levels. Every electronics class, school and library should have a
copy, along with anyone who works with PICAXEs. 300 pages in paperback. 2011
PIC IN PRACTICE
by D W Smith. 2nd Edition - published 2006 $60.00*
Based on popular short courses on the PIC, for professionals, students
and teachers. Can be used at a variety of levels. An ideal introduction to the
world of microcontrollers. 255 pages in paperback.
PIC MICROCONTROLLER – your personal introductory course By John Morton 3rd edition 2005. $60.00*
A unique and practical guide to getting up and running with the PIC. It assumes no knowledge of microcontrollers – ideal introduction for students,
teachers, technicians and electronics enthusiasts. Revised 3rd edition focuses entirely
on re-programmable flash PICs such as 16F54, 16F84 12F508 and 12F675. 226 pages
in paperback.
by Douglas Self 2nd Edition 2006 $69.00*
A collection of 35 classic magazine articles offering a dependable methodology for designing audio power amplifiers to improve performance at every
point without significantly increasing cost. Includes compressors/limiters,
hybrid bipolar/FET amps, electronic switching and more. 467 pages in paperback.
SMALL SIGNAL AUDIO DESIGN
By Douglas Self – First Edition 2010 $95.00*
The latest from the Guru of audio. Explains audio concepts in easy-to-understand language with plenty of examples and reasoning. Inspiration for audio
designers, superb background for audio enthusiasts and especially where it comes to
component peculiarities and limitations. Expensive? Yes. Value for money? YES! Highly
recommended. 558 pages in paperback.
AUDIO POWER AMPLIFIER DESIGN HANDBOOK
by Douglas Self – 5th Edition 2009 $85.00*
"The Bible" on audio power amplifiers. Many revisions and
updates to the previous edition and now has an extra three
chapters covering Class XD, Power Amp Input Systems and
Input Processing and Auxiliarly Subsystems. Not cheap and not a book
for the beginner but if you want the best reference on Audio Power Amps,
you want this one! 463 pages in paperback.
DVD PLAYERS AND DRIVES
by K.F. Ibrahim. Published 2003. $71.00*
OP AMPS FOR EVERYONE
By Bruce Carter – 4th Edition 2013 $83.00*
This is the bible for anyone designing op amp circuits and you don't
have to be an engineer to get the most out of it. It is written in simple language
but gives lots of in-depth info, bridging the gap between the theoretical and the
practical. 281 pages,
A guide to DVD technology and applications, with particular focus
on design issues and pitfalls, maintenance and repair. Ideal for
engineers, technicians, students of consumer electronics and
sales and installation staff. 319 pages in paperback.
by Sanjaya Maniktala, Published April 2012. $83.00
Thoroughly revised! The most comprehensive study available of theoretical and practical aspects of controlling and measuring
EMI in switching power supplies.
Subtitled Exploring the PIC32, a Microchip insider tells all on this powerful
PIC! Focuses on examples and exercises that show how to solve common,
real-world design problems quickly. Includes handy checklists. FREE CD-ROM includes
source code in C, the Microchip C30 compiler, and MPLAB SIM. 400 pages paperback.
By Garry Cratt – Latest (7th) Edition 2008 $49.00
Written in Australia, for Australian conditions by one of Australia's foremost
satellite TV experts. If there is anything you wanted to know about setting up
a satellite TV system, (including what you can't do!) it's sure to be covered
in this 176-page paperback book.
See
Review
Feb
2004
SWITCHING POWER SUPPLIES A-Z
PROGRAMMING 32-bit MICROCONTROLLERS
IN C By Luci di Jasio (2008) $79.00*
PRACTICAL GUIDE TO SATELLITE TV
See
Review
March
2010
ELECTRIC MOTORS AND DRIVES
By Austin Hughes & Bill Drury - 4th edition 2013 $59.00*
This is a very easy to read book with very little mathematics or
formulas. It covers the basics of all the main motor types, DC
permanent magnet and wound field, AC induction and steppers and
gives a very good description of how speed control circuits work with these
motors. Soft covers, 444 pages.
NEWNES GUIDE TO TV & VIDEO TECHNOLOGY
By KF Ibrahim 4th Edition (Published 2007) $49.00
It's back! Provides a full and comprehensive coverage of video and television technology including HDTV and DVD. Starts with fundamentals so is
ideal for students but covers in-depth technologies such as Blu-ray, DLP,
Digital TV, etc so is also perfect for engineers. 600+ pages in paperback.
RF CIRCUIT DESIGN
by Chris Bowick, Second Edition, 2008. $63.00*
The classic RF circuit design book. RF circuit design is now more important
that ever in the wireless world. In most of the wireless devices that we use
there is an RF component – this book tells how to design and integrate in a
very practical fashion. 244 pages in paperback.
PRACTICAL RF HANDBOOK
AC MACHINES
By Jim Lowe Published 2006 $66.00*
Applicable to Australian trades-level courses including NE10 AC Machines,
NE12 Synchronous Machines and the AC part of NE30 Electric Motor
Control and Protection. Covering polyphase induction motors, singlephase motors, synchronous machines and polyphase motor starting. 160
pages in paperback.
PRACTICAL VARIABLE SPEED DRIVES &
POWER ELECTRONICS
Se
e
by Malcolm Barnes. 1st Ed, Feb 2003. $73.00* Review
An essential reference for engineers and anyone who wishes
to design or use variable speed drives for induction motors.
286 pages in soft cover.
Feb
2003
BUILD YOUR OWN ELECTRIC MOTORCYCLE
by Carl Vogel. Published 2009. $40.00*
by Ian Hickman. 4th edition 2007 $61.00*
Alternative fuel expert Carl Vogel gives you a hands-on guide with
A guide to RF design for engineers, technicians, students and enthusiasts.
the latest technical information and easy-to-follow instructions
Covers key topics in RF: analog design principles, transmission lines,
for building a two-wheeled electric vehicle – from a streamlined
couplers, transformers, amplifiers, oscillators, modulation, transmitters and
scooter to a full-sized motorcycle. 384 pages in soft cover.
receivers, propagation and antennas. 279 pages in paperback.
*NOTE: ALL PRICES ARE PLUS P&P – AUSTRALIA ONLY: $10.00 per order; NZ – $AU12.00 PER BOOK; REST OF WORLD $AU18.00 PER BOOK
To
Place
Your
Order:
INTERNET (24/7)
PAYPAL (24/7)
eMAIL (24/7)
www.siliconchip.
com.au/Shop/Books
Use your PayPal account
silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
with order & credit card details
FAX (24/7)
MAIL (24/7)
Your order and card details to Your order to PO Box 139
Collaroy NSW 2097
(02) 9939 2648 with all details
PHONE – (9-5, Mon-Fri)
Call (02) 9939 3295 with
with order & credit card details
You can also order and pay for books by cheque/money order (Mail Only). Make cheques payable to Silicon Chip Publications.
ALL TITLES SUBJECT TO AVAILABILITY. PRICES VALID FOR MONTH OF MAGAZINE ISSUE ONLY. ALL PRICES INCLUDE GST
ALL S ILICON C HIP SUBSCRIBERS – PRINT,
OR BOTH – AUTOMATICALLY QUALIFY FOR A
REFERENCE $ave 10%ONLINE
DISCOUNT ON ALL BOOK OR PARTSHOP PURCHASES.
CHIP BOOKSHOP 10% (Does not apply to subscriptions)
SILICON
For the latest titles and information, please refer to our website books page: www.siliconchip.com.au/Shop/Books
PIC MICROCONTROLLERS: know it all
SELF ON AUDIO
Multiple authors $85.00
The best of subjects Newnes authors have written over the past few years,
combined in a one-stop maxi reference. Covers introduction to PICs and their
programming in Assembly, PICBASIC, MBASIC & C. 900+ pages.
PROGRAMMING and CUSTOMIZING THE
PICAXE By David Lincoln (2nd Ed, 2011) $65.00*
A great aid when wrestling with applications for the PICAXE
See
series of microcontrollers, at beginner, intermediate and
Review
April
advanced levels. Every electronics class, school and library should have a
copy, along with anyone who works with PICAXEs. 300 pages in paperback. 2011
PIC IN PRACTICE
by D W Smith. 2nd Edition - published 2006 $60.00*
Based on popular short courses on the PIC, for professionals, students
and teachers. Can be used at a variety of levels. An ideal introduction to the
world of microcontrollers. 255 pages in paperback.
PIC MICROCONTROLLER – your personal introductory course By John Morton 3rd edition 2005. $60.00*
A unique and practical guide to getting up and running with the PIC. It assumes no knowledge of microcontrollers – ideal introduction for students,
teachers, technicians and electronics enthusiasts. Revised 3rd edition focuses entirely
on re-programmable flash PICs such as 16F54, 16F84 12F508 and 12F675. 226 pages
in paperback.
by Douglas Self 2nd Edition 2006 $69.00*
A collection of 35 classic magazine articles offering a dependable methodology for designing audio power amplifiers to improve performance at every
point without significantly increasing cost. Includes compressors/limiters,
hybrid bipolar/FET amps, electronic switching and more. 467 pages in paperback.
SMALL SIGNAL AUDIO DESIGN
By Douglas Self – First Edition 2010 $95.00*
The latest from the Guru of audio. Explains audio concepts in easy-to-understand language with plenty of examples and reasoning. Inspiration for audio
designers, superb background for audio enthusiasts and especially where it comes to
component peculiarities and limitations. Expensive? Yes. Value for money? YES! Highly
recommended. 558 pages in paperback.
AUDIO POWER AMPLIFIER DESIGN HANDBOOK
by Douglas Self – 5th Edition 2009 $85.00*
"The Bible" on audio power amplifiers. Many revisions and
updates to the previous edition and now has an extra three
chapters covering Class XD, Power Amp Input Systems and
Input Processing and Auxiliarly Subsystems. Not cheap and not a book
for the beginner but if you want the best reference on Audio Power Amps,
you want this one! 463 pages in paperback.
DVD PLAYERS AND DRIVES
by K.F. Ibrahim. Published 2003. $71.00*
OP AMPS FOR EVERYONE
By Bruce Carter – 4th Edition 2013 $83.00*
This is the bible for anyone designing op amp circuits and you don't
have to be an engineer to get the most out of it. It is written in simple language
but gives lots of in-depth info, bridging the gap between the theoretical and the
practical. 281 pages,
A guide to DVD technology and applications, with particular focus
on design issues and pitfalls, maintenance and repair. Ideal for
engineers, technicians, students of consumer electronics and
sales and installation staff. 319 pages in paperback.
by Sanjaya Maniktala, Published April 2012. $83.00
Thoroughly revised! The most comprehensive study available of theoretical and practical aspects of controlling and measuring
EMI in switching power supplies.
Subtitled Exploring the PIC32, a Microchip insider tells all on this powerful
PIC! Focuses on examples and exercises that show how to solve common,
real-world design problems quickly. Includes handy checklists. FREE CD-ROM includes
source code in C, the Microchip C30 compiler, and MPLAB SIM. 400 pages paperback.
By Garry Cratt – Latest (7th) Edition 2008 $49.00
Written in Australia, for Australian conditions by one of Australia's foremost
satellite TV experts. If there is anything you wanted to know about setting up
a satellite TV system, (including what you can't do!) it's sure to be covered
in this 176-page paperback book.
See
Review
Feb
2004
SWITCHING POWER SUPPLIES A-Z
PROGRAMMING 32-bit MICROCONTROLLERS
IN C By Luci di Jasio (2008) $79.00*
PRACTICAL GUIDE TO SATELLITE TV
See
Review
March
2010
ELECTRIC MOTORS AND DRIVES
By Austin Hughes & Bill Drury - 4th edition 2013 $59.00*
This is a very easy to read book with very little mathematics or
formulas. It covers the basics of all the main motor types, DC
permanent magnet and wound field, AC induction and steppers and
gives a very good description of how speed control circuits work with these
motors. Soft covers, 444 pages.
NEWNES GUIDE TO TV & VIDEO TECHNOLOGY
By KF Ibrahim 4th Edition (Published 2007) $49.00
It's back! Provides a full and comprehensive coverage of video and television technology including HDTV and DVD. Starts with fundamentals so is
ideal for students but covers in-depth technologies such as Blu-ray, DLP,
Digital TV, etc so is also perfect for engineers. 600+ pages in paperback.
RF CIRCUIT DESIGN
by Chris Bowick, Second Edition, 2008. $63.00*
The classic RF circuit design book. RF circuit design is now more important
that ever in the wireless world. In most of the wireless devices that we use
there is an RF component – this book tells how to design and integrate in a
very practical fashion. 244 pages in paperback.
PRACTICAL RF HANDBOOK
AC MACHINES
By Jim Lowe Published 2006 $66.00*
Applicable to Australian trades-level courses including NE10 AC Machines,
NE12 Synchronous Machines and the AC part of NE30 Electric Motor
Control and Protection. Covering polyphase induction motors, singlephase motors, synchronous machines and polyphase motor starting. 160
pages in paperback.
PRACTICAL VARIABLE SPEED DRIVES &
POWER ELECTRONICS
Se
e
by Malcolm Barnes. 1st Ed, Feb 2003. $73.00* Review
An essential reference for engineers and anyone who wishes
to design or use variable speed drives for induction motors.
286 pages in soft cover.
Feb
2003
BUILD YOUR OWN ELECTRIC MOTORCYCLE
by Carl Vogel. Published 2009. $40.00*
by Ian Hickman. 4th edition 2007 $61.00*
Alternative fuel expert Carl Vogel gives you a hands-on guide with
A guide to RF design for engineers, technicians, students and enthusiasts.
the latest technical information and easy-to-follow instructions
Covers key topics in RF: analog design principles, transmission lines,
for building a two-wheeled electric vehicle – from a streamlined
couplers, transformers, amplifiers, oscillators, modulation, transmitters and
scooter to a full-sized motorcycle. 384 pages in soft cover.
receivers, propagation and antennas. 279 pages in paperback.
*NOTE: ALL PRICES ARE PLUS P&P – AUSTRALIA ONLY: $10.00 per order; NZ – $AU12.00 PER BOOK; REST OF WORLD $AU18.00 PER BOOK
To
Place
Your
Order:
INTERNET (24/7)
PAYPAL (24/7)
eMAIL (24/7)
www.siliconchip.
com.au/Shop/Books
Use your PayPal account
silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
with order & credit card details
FAX (24/7)
MAIL (24/7)
Your order and card details to Your order to PO Box 139
Collaroy NSW 2097
(02) 9939 2648 with all details
PHONE – (9-5, Mon-Fri)
Call (02) 9939 3295 with
with order & credit card details
You can also order and pay for books by cheque/money order (Mail Only). Make cheques payable to Silicon Chip Publications.
ALL TITLES SUBJECT TO AVAILABILITY. PRICES VALID FOR MONTH OF MAGAZINE ISSUE ONLY. ALL PRICES INCLUDE GST
ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Write to: Ask Silicon Chip, PO Box 139, Collaroy Beach, NSW 2097; or
send an email to silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au
Tuning the
Theremin
After a lot of time and help from some
university technicians, I finally got my
Theremin (SILICON CHIP, August 2000)
working – it’s magnificent! However
there are a few queries that I have on
modifying the instrument.
First, I find it very difficult to tune
– as you point out in the instructions,
the tuning alters with the lid off the
box. It also seems to alter quite dramatically, depending on whether I take
a line out to an external amplifier or
whether I use the small speaker in the
box. Is there a way of adding a switch
to turn on/off the internal speaker so
that results are a bit more consistent
when using the line-out only?
Second, is there a way of setting up
the tuning so that the usable melodic
range is a bit more spread out in space?
I find that the most tiny movement
towards the antenna, in some registers,
can change the pitch hugely, making
melody playing a very tricky business!
Are there any tricks for setting up the
tuning to do this?
I also find the tuning (and volume)
a bit temperamental. When I haven’t
used it for a few days then switch on,
I often find that I need to take it apart
and re-tune it. Is there a way of adding
external adjustments for the T2 and
VR2 controls? (G. M., via email).
• Tuning is critical and can be affected by external connections and
interactions. Note that any nearby
metal surfaces can affect tuning. It
is recommended to place the unit on
a stand to keep the Theremin away
from any surfaces that may affect it.
The loudspeaker can be switched out
using a switch if required.
VR2 could be a multiturn unit to
improve adjustment control. It is not
recommended to have external adjustments.
The Theremin does have a wide
frequency range and so this makes
it difficult to have complete control
over the output frequency. Very fine
finger movements should be used
for small variations rather than hand
movements.
Proximity sensor
for rubbish bin
Could you please tell me what type
of sensor is used in the Jaycar Intelligent Rubbish Bin and where I could
purchase one? This type of sensor is
Query On USB-Controlled Power Switch
I purchased the USB-activated
Power Switch kit and I have a
minor query. I have constructed it
correctly, exactly as per the instructions and it does work. Well, almost
work. It seems to “leak” +20V when
in the off-state. Is this “normal” or
have I done something wrong?
Also, I found that by plugging the
device into the active +5V line, the
power board works as originally
intended. This is easy to achieve
by simply attaching an extra HDD
Molex connector to a spare USB
plug/card slot “thingy”. I marked
the connector “Power USB” with a
106 Silicon Chip
sticker just to be safe but even plugging a USB device into it will cause
no harm as it just supplies +5V.
• If you measure the output voltage
with a high-impedance DMM when
the USB-activated powerboard is
nominally “off”, it’s normal to get
a low reading as you’ve found.
There’s a small amount of current
passed by the Triac bias and snubber circuitry which is enough to
produce a low reading on your
meter. However, the Triac is not
being turned on and you normally
don’t get a significant reading when
a “real” load is connected.
used in many applications such as
hot-air hand-dryers and in some public places for turning on taps. Maybe
you could print a circuit/project in the
magazine, as this type of control could
be used in many applications around
the home. (G. W., via email).
• There is no sensor as such. The
bin probably uses a proximity switch
circuit which reacts to body capacitance. A proximity switch circuit was
featured in the August 2000 issue.
Stereo version
of the Studio 350
I have just purchased the Studio
350W power amplifier, as featured in
the January & February 2004 issues.
I was wondering if it was possible to
connect two amplifier kits to the one
power supply. Would this be possible
without losing any performance from
the amplifiers and would the components in the power supply be able to
handle the extra current?
Also, if this could be done, would
the amplifiers be connected in series
or parallel? (J. Y., via email).
• If you intend using the stereo amplifier in the home, the existing power
supply with its 500VA transformer
will be quite adequate. The amplifiers
would be connected in parallel to the
supply.
Increasing hysteresis
in the Coolmaster
I have built the Fridge Temperature
Controller from the June 2005 issue,
to use as a thermostat in a bar fridge.
I am a refrigeration mechanic and
while it works well, its differential is
too close. It is cutting in at 1.9°C and
out at 0.3°C; a difference of only 1.6°C.
Thus, the off-time of the compressor is
not long enough for the gas to equalise
and the compressor overloads every
time it tries to start up.
Unless one knows how fridges work,
this may not be noticed but it doesn’t
do the compressor much good; it will
siliconchip.com.au
run quite hot. I have a data-logger connected to the fridge so I know exactly
what’s going on. I tried fitting a large
heatsink to the sensor to try to damp
the temperature change but this didn’t
work. I have now wrapped the sensor
in insulation to slow the temperature
change.
Is there a way to change the value
of one of the components to lengthen
the time between cut-in and cut-out?
Typically, 5°C would be a good figure.
(P. C., via email).
• You should be able to increase the
differential between cut-in and cut-out
temperatures by increasing the value
of the 100W resistor to 150W. You can
also reduce the value of the 33kW resistor to 27kW. Both of these changes will
increase the positive feedback around
the comparator and hence increase its
hysteresis.
Telephone exchange
simulator wanted
I am trying to find an article or kit on
how to hook up two telephones without hooking them into the Telecom
exchange. The kit I have in mind was
powered by an external power supply
and used two standard telephones. (A.
J., via email).
• Have a look at the Telephone
Exchange Simulator featured in the
February 1998 issue.
Wind the Micromitter
coils correctly
I purchased and built the Micro
mitter kit from the December 2002
issue and I am having a couple of problems. First, in the test and adjustment
section, it mentions to set the voltage
at TP1 to around 2V by adjusting L1.
All I seem to get is 0.61V, no matter
what adjustment I make.
Second, even though I only get
0.61V at TP1, I still manage to get an
output when I connect a stereo signal
to the RCA input but the output is
mono not stereo. Can you please help?
(W. P., via email).
• The problem most people are
having with this project is with the
adjustment of the PLL voltage for the
RF oscillator. The cause is usually that
coil L1 is not wound in the correct
direction. You must wind it in the
direction shown in the photo, with the
coil close to the PC board and the turns
touching each other. In addition, the
siliconchip.com.au
ECG Software Troubleshooting
I have built the USB Electrocardiograph described in the February
2005 issue. I have managed to set up
the ECG machine and have attached
RCA leads to it.
The problem lies mainly in
obtaining an actual reading using
the supplied and recommended
software. There seems to be continuity in the RCA leads and although
attached to a laptop (via USB), it
doesn’t seem to produce any sort
of signal; ie, there is no indication
that an ECG is actually being read. I
was just wondering what I can do in
order to obtain any sort of reading.
(A. F., via email).
• From the information you have
supplied, it’s not easy to suggest exactly why your USB ECG unit isn’t
working. However, it does sound
like a software problem.
Does the FTDI USB virtual port
driver seem to install properly? If it
has, you should be able to go into
Control Panel > System > Hardware
> Device Manager and find that it
has set up a USB serial port, which
it should say is “working properly”
bottom of the former should be flush
with the bottom of the PC board. If this
is not done, the coil’s inductance will
be too high.
Humongous DC
supply wanted
I have a major dumb question for
you guys, which with the amount of
electrical and electronic work I do,
makes me seem like a complete idiot,
but here goes. I do a lot of car stereo
work, mainly way overpowered systems for DB Drag and SPL competition
cars and I need to rig the stands for a
few show cars at this year’s December
AutoSalon car show in Sydney.
As part of this, I am going to need
a ridiculous supply of 13.8V DC to
run each of these cars. I have access
to 3-phase mains and will be using a
distribution board to run single phase
but I need to be able to build power
supplies that can supply roughly 300A
or so (that is not a typo) per car!
In my limited experience with
and you should be able to set this to
COM5 and for a data rate of 38,400
bps with 8 data bits, 1 stop bit and
no parity.
Once you’re happy that the USB
port driver is working properly, start
up the ECG controller software and
make sure it too is set for COM5 and
the same data rate, etc. Then click
on the “Start Sampling” button. You
should see the green LED on the
rear of the ECG Sampler blink very
briefly and the red LED blink for a
few seconds. After this, the software
should display the sampled ECG
waveform in the screen window.
If the FTDI USB port driver hasn’t
installed properly, none of this
will happen because the software
won’t be able to communicate with
the sampler. Similarly, if the ECG
Controller hasn’t been installed
properly or isn’t able to communicate with the virtual COM port set
up by the USB driver, this will also
prevent correct operation.
In each case, though, the lack of
communication will be shown by
the failure of the LEDs to blink.
building power supplies, I am assuming that I should run toroids, bridge
rectifiers and smoothing caps and then
run a bunch of these in parallel to get
the required amount of amps all up.
The way I plan to set it up is to run
maybe one to four “sets” of toroids
and associated gear in a 19-inch rackmount case and then have a full rack
of them. I am also thinking about
running those IEC panel sockets that
have inbuilt EMI/RFI suppression to
give some protection from the noise
on the mains line. Once all of these
power supplies have been joined in
parallel by something like 4-gauge or
2-gauge cable running from case to
case in piggyback style, I then intend
running roughly five metres of 2-gauge
cable to the car. Sitting underneath the
car, I plan to have more rack cases with
roughly 12 1-farad car audio capacitors
and then have that running into the
battery bank of each car.
I would just like to know what you
guys think I should do, how I should
wire the individual power supplies,
December 2005 107
Notes & Errata
Programmable Flexitimer, August
2005: on some timers built up by
readers, the LCD module does
not initialise correctly. Instead, it
displays just a single row of black
squares and does not progress to
showing the opening greeting and
then the timer settings.
As a result, we have revised
the PIC firmware to prevent this
problem, which occurs on modules that are “slow to wake up”.
The updated firmware file is designated PICTIME2.hex and can be
downloaded from the SILICON CHIP
website (www.siliconchip.com.au).
Some readers have also asked
how to give the timer a continuous
cycling mode. This has now been
achieved and the continuous cycling mode is set simply by entering
zero (00) as the setting for “Cycles”.
The second line of the display
shows “Cont” when the timer is
in this mode. It can be returned to
finite multiple cycle mode simply
by setting the number of “Cycles”
to any allowed non-zero value – ie,
1-99.
PICAXE iButton Reader (October
2005): on the circuit diagram, pin
1 of the serial socket (CT1) should
connect directly to pin 7 of the
PICAXE chip, not to the anode of
the LED as shown. The circuit board
and overlay are correct.
Serial IO Controller & Analog Sampler, November 2005: the 10kW resistor going to the base of transistor
Q3 on the circuit (Fig.3) should be
changed to 4.7kW. The parts layout
diagram (Fig.4) is correct. In addition, the parts list should show 4 x
4.7kW resistors, 2 x 10kW resistors
and 16 x 100nF MKT capacitors.
Programmable Continuity Tester
(July 2003): to protect the tester in
the case of accidental use on live
circuitry, a 4.7V 1W zener diode
and 330W resistor can be added to
what gear I should use, what voltages
the toroids need to be, what voltage
and farad ratings I would need to have
for the smoothing caps, etc.
108 Silicon Chip
SC480 50W Amplifier, January/
February 2003: a number of readers
have asked how to add a volume
control to the SC480 amplifier, so
that it can be used directly with a
line-level music source. This can be
achieved very simply, using just a
50kW dual-gang log potentiometer,
some shielded audio cable and the
appropriate connectors, as shown
in the above diagrams.
The same technique can be used
on other amplifier modules too,
although you’ll need to verify that
the signal source is sufficient to generate the volume levels you expect.
If not, a preamplifier might be part
of the solution.
the probe positive input circuit.
These additional components
limit the voltage applied to the
non-inverting input (pin 10) of the
LM324, to protect it from reverse
and over-voltages.
A fragment of the circuit showing
the additional two components is
shown in Fig.1. These components
can be added to existing PC boards
by first breaking the track leading to
Fig.1: R17 and zener diode ZD1
pin 10 of IC1. The 330W resistor is
protect the LM324 op amp input.
then soldered between
pin 10 and the positive probe input. The
cathode (banded) end
of the zener also goes
to pin 10, while its
anode end goes to the
negative (GND) probe
input.
A revised PC board
design (marked “Rev
B”) that includes these
two parts has been
provided to the usual
suppliers. An overlay
diagram for the revised design appears
Fig.2: this is the revised PC parts layout for the
in Fig.2.
Programmable Continuity Tester.
Currently I’m using the 40A switchmode power supplies from Jaycar but
they just aren’t enough and at roughly
$500 each, running enough of them in
parallel to amount to roughly 300A per
car would just be utterly ridiculous
price-wise. (D. B., via email).
• What you are talking about is a
siliconchip.com.au
power supply with about 5kVA input,
for each car. The only practical way to
do this is to use a 3-phase transformer
coupled with a big 6-diode bridge
rectifier and a large bank of electros.
Using 3-phase will give much lower
ripple but you will still need a big
bank of electros.
Having said that, this is not an area
where we can help in the design.
How long to
rejuvenate a battery
I found the Lead-Acid Battery
Zapper in the July 2005 issue to be
interesting. One question though: how
does one know when the battery is
rejuvenated (after using the project)?
(M. P., Christchurch, NZ).
• Good question. It could take several days or more of zapping to get a
result. Then you need to test whether
the battery will accept a charge; ie, a
charge that takes a reasonable time
for the battery voltage to come up to
14V or so. Then you need to check
the battery’s capacity by giving it a
known load such as a 60W headlamp
bulb and checking how long it takes
to discharge to 11V or so.
As stated in the article, not every
battery will be capable of being rejuvenated.
Valve RIAA
preamplifier
I have assembled two of your valve
preamps for instruments (high gain)
because I want the preamp for phono
gain. They will be driving a valve
power amplifier but I require RIAA
compensation. Can you provide a
circuit diagram for what I require and
Charging Batteries In The Rain Gauge
I am writing in relation to the
Rain Gauge project (SILICON CHIP,
June 2000), specifically with respect to the way the 220W resistor
is used in the “Nicad or NiMH type
batteries only” part of the circuit.
According to the article this resistor should only be installed if you
intend to use rechargeable cells for
the battery backup.
Was the use of a small PCmounted switch (SPST) or pin/plug
header, in series with this resistor,
considered during the design process? If so, why was it decided not
to include this option?
Simply being able to switch the
where it goes. I have tried the Internet
but have not found what I need. (R. P.,
via email).
• We do not have an RIAA version of
the preamp and we doubt whether this
preamp would be quiet enough for a
magnetic cartridge. Have a look at our
RIAA preamp from the March 2002
issue. It is an op amp design.
If you are really set on producing a
valve RIAA preamp with 12AX7s, we
have gone back through the archives
and found a preamp back in the June
1954 issue of Radio & Hobbies. We can
supply a photostat copy of this article
for $8.80 including postage.
Multiple cycles
for the Flexitimer
Can the Flexitimer featured in the
August 2005 issue be made to run for
resistor in or out of circuit as required would remove the need to
remove and then possibly have to
reinstall it at a later time, or visa
versa. (P. M., via email).
• We did not include a jumper
or switch for the recharging resistor because we envisaged that
constructors would use either
rechargeable or non-rechargeable
cells, not both.
You can include a switch or
jumper link if you wish. The resistor
can be included on the back of the
switch and wired to the resistor lead
positions. Any single-pole switch
is suitable.
more than 99 minutes by increasing
the number of cycles to run concurrently? (D. P., Glenfield Park, NSW).
• The Flexitimer can effectively be
made to run for longer than 99 minutes
and 59 seconds by setting the number
of cycles to greater than 1 (the default).
However this only applies if you have
only Time A programmed, not Time B
as well. This is because when you only
have Time A programmed, extra cycles
result in Time A being effectively restarted immediately after its has ended
(until the end of the last cycle).
So the effective time for Time A
becomes the programmed time multiplied by the number of cycles you
have programmed.
Finally, we recently have modified
the software to give the unit a continuous cycling mode – see Notes & Errata
SC
on page 108
WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage.
All such projects should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely.
Readers are warned that high voltage wiring should be carried out according to the instructions in the articles.
When working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do not accidentally come into contact with
mains AC voltages or high voltage DC. If you are not confident about working with projects employing mains voltages
or other high voltages, you are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd disclaims any
liability for damages should anyone be killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue
of SILICON CHIP magazine. Devices or circuits described in SILICON CHIP may be covered by patents. SILICON
CHIP disclaims any liability for the infringement of such patents by the manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also disclaims any liability for projects which are used in such a way as to infringe relevant
government regulations and by-laws.
Advertisers are warned that they are responsible for the content of all advertisements and that they must conform to the Trade Practices Act 1974 or as subsequently amended and to any governmental regulations which are
applicable.
siliconchip.com.au
December 2005 109
MARKET CENTRE
Cash in your surplus gear. Advertise it here in Silicon Chip.
CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING RATES
Advertising rates for this page: Classified ads: $22.00 (incl. GST) for up to 20
words plus 66 cents for each additional word. Display ads: $36.00 (incl. GST) per
column centimetre (max. 10cm). Closing date: five weeks prior to month of sale.
To run your classified ad, print it clearly in the space below or on a separate sheet
of paper, fill out the form & send it with your cheque or credit card details to: Silicon
Chip Classifieds, PO Box 139, Collaroy, NSW 2097. Alternatively, fax the details
to (02) 9979 6503 or send an email to silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au
Taxation Invoice ABN 49 003 205 490
_____________ _____________ _____________ _____________ _____________
_____________ _____________ _____________ _____________ _____________
_____________ _____________ _____________ _____________ _____________
_____________ _____________ _____________ _____________ _____________
_____________ _____________ _____________ _____________ _____________
_____________ _____________ _____________ _____________ _____________
_____________ _____________ _____________ _____________ _____________
_____________ _____________ _____________ _____________ _____________
_____________ _____________ _____________ _____________ _____________
Enclosed is my cheque/money order for $__________ or please debit my
o Bankcard o Visa Card o Master Card
Card No.
Signature__________________________ Card expiry date______/______
Name _____________________________________________________
Street _____________________________________________________
Suburb/town ___________________________ Postcode______________
Phone:_____________ Fax:_____________ Email:__________________
110 Silicon Chip
FOR SALE
TURN AN OLD PC INTO A PLC
(Process Logic Controller) using
ULTRAsmart’s inexpensive software
and Dick Smith Electronics’ K-2805
kit with digital and analog outputs and
analog inputs. (The software allows
the analog inputs to also be used as
digital inputs.) Automate your home,
greenhouse, model railways, and
amateur radio controllers. FREE demo
software at www.ultrasmart.org
MORE CONTROL SOLUTIONS for you:
Tachometer Panel Meter Display:
Fully programmable you can monitor
engine speeds and other frequency
sources
RF Coax Adaptor Kit: 40 piece gold
plated adaptor kit for N, F, BNC etc
connectors
Stepper Motors: we have a selection
of Stepper motors for hobby and
high torque CNC applications
DC Motors for both hobby and high
torque applications
DC, Stepper and Servo Motor controller
kits
Labjack Ethernet/USB Data Acq
uisition Module: features 14 16bit
analog inputs, 23 digital I/O, 2 analog
outputs and 2 high speed counter. Free
software, Labview driver and ActiveX
component.
Counter and Timers: 7-digit and 10year battery operated
Multi Function Timer and Cyclic
Timer/Pulse Generator
Proximity sensors: industrial grade
Photoelectric sensors: up to 15 metres
Serial and Parallel port relay controller
cards
Pump and Trip Alarm Controller card.
Duty-Standby operation.
PIC MicroProgrammers: serial and
USB port operated.
2,4 & 8 Relay Cards: suitable for TTL
and Open Collector Outputs
Switch Mode, Battery Chargers and
DC-DC converters.
Full details and credit card ordering
available at www.oceancontrols.com.
au. Helping to put you in control.
siliconchip.com.au
New New New
Mark22-SM
Slimline Mini FM R/C Receiver
WANTED
OlD TrANsmiTTiNg
VAlVEs
• Working or not working
• Preferably 150 to 280mm
in length
• Required for exhibition
purposes ONLY
•
•
•
•
•
6 Channels
10kHz frequency separation
Size: 55 x 23 x 20mm
Weight: 25gm
Modular Construction
Price: $A129.50 with crystal
Please contact Maree at Jaycar
on +02 9741 8555 or via email
mmazzoni<at>jaycar.com.au
Log Periodic
Antennas
Laceys.tv
™
42 Brunel Rd Seaford VIC 3198
Tel (03) 9776 9222 web:www.laceys.tv
also Sydney, CoffsHarbour, Ulverstone
CLEVERSCOPE
USB OSCILLOSCOPES
100MSa/s 10bits each channel
4M samples per input
100MHz bandwidth
8 digital inputs
Sig-gen option
Spectrum analyser
Windows 98/Me/NT/2k/XP
Electronics
PO Box 580, Riverwood, NSW 2210.
Ph/Fax (02) 9533 3517
email: youngbob<at>silvertone.com.au
Website: www.silvertone.com.au
Reliable Digital Reception
Best high end DIY audio kits
on the planet!
www.aksaonline.com
GRANTRONICS PTY LTD
Select your microcontroller kit
and get started...
Fax a copy of
Foam surrounds,voice coils,cones and more
Original parts for Dynaudio,Tannoy and others
Expert speaker repairs – 20 years experience
Australian agents for
products
Trade welcome – email for your user ID
Phone (03) 9647 7000
From
$295*
this ad and
receive a
5% discount
on your order!
RCM3400
Feature rich, compiler, editor & debugger
with royalty free TCP/IP stack
Tel: + 61 2 9906 6988
Fax: + 61 2 9906 7145
S-Video . . . Video . . . Audio . . . VGA
distribution amps, splitters, standards
converters, tbc’s, switchers, cables, etc,
& price list: www.questronix.com.au
68HC08, 68HC11, 68HC12, 68HC16.
from $330.00
Atmel Flash CPU Programmer: Handles the 89Cx051, 89C5x, 89Sxx in
both DIP and PLCC44 and some AVR’s,
most 8-pin EEPROMS. Includes socket
for serial ISP cable. $220, $11 p&p.
SOIC adaptors: 20 pin $132.00, 14 pin
$126.50, 8 pin $121.00.
Full details on web-site. Credit cards
accepted. GRANTRONICS PTY LTD,
PO Box 275, Wentworthville 2145. (02)
9896 7150 or http://www.grantronics.
com.au
ImageCraft C Compilers: 32-bit
Windows IDE and compiler. For AVR,
siliconchip.com.au
You have the Circuit - We can Package it?
4007
USB KITS: Gas Sensors (CO, LPG,
Alcohol), GPIB Interface, Thermostat
Tester, LCD Module Interface, Stepper
Motor Controller, PIO Interface, DTMF
Transceiver, Thermometer, DDS HF
Generator, Compass, 4 Channel Volt-
Call Mike for PCB Layout
Prototyping, Small Runs
and Production Runs
Product & Panel Labelling - Call Martin for Full
Colour on
Clear, White, Brushed
Aluminium, or Gold Label.
• Prices exclude GST and delivery charges.
www.dominion.net.au
SUPERBRIGHT LEDS from just 15
cents each, including new wide angle
range! 12 volt LED lightbars, great for
solar/camping. Nixie tubes and nixie
clock kits. Lots of other stuff, and always
more items being added. New webshop
now online! www.ledsales.com.au
www.grantronics.com.au
Printed Circuit Boards -
speakerbits.com.au
PCBs MADE, ONE OR MANY. Any
format, hobbyists welcome. Sesame
Electronics Phone (02) 9593 1025.
sesame<at>sesame.com.au
www.sesame.com.au
PO Box 275, Wentworthville. 2145.
Ph: 02 9896 7150
Mi Mar
Resources
FACTORY 3 / 26 STAFFORD STREET
HUNTINGDALE 3166
Tel: (03) 9 562 7030 Fax: (03) 9 562 7040
e-mail: pcbs<at>alphalink.com.au
meter, I/O Relay Card, USB via LabVIEW. Also available: Digital Oscillo
scope, Temperature Loggers, VHF
Receivers and USB ActiveX (and
USBDOS.exe file) to control our kits
from your own application. www.ar.com.
au/~softmark
December 2005 111
Do You Eat, Breathe and Sleep TECHNOLOGY?
Opportunities for full-time and part-time positions all over Australia & New Zealand
Jaycar Electronics is a rapidly growing, Australian
owned, international retailer with more than 39 stores in
Australia and New Zealand. Our aggressive expansion
programme has resulted in the need for dedicated
individuals to join our team to assist us in achieving our
goals.
We pride ourselves on the technical knowledge of our
staff. Do you think that the following statements describe
you? Please put a tick in the boxes that do:
Knowledge of electronics, particularly at component level.
Assemble projects or kits yourself for car, computer, audio, etc.
Have empathy with others who have the same interest as you.
May have worked in some retail already (not obligatory).
Have energy, enthusiasm and a personality that enjoys
helping people.
Appreciates an opportunity for future advancement.
Have an eye for detail.
Why not do something you love and get paid for it? Please
write or email us with your details, along with your C.V.
and any qualifications you may have. We pay a
competitive salary, sales commissions and have great
benefits like a liberal staff purchase policy.
Send to:
Retail Operations Manager - Jaycar Electronics Pty Ltd
P.O. Box 6424 Silverwater NSW 1811
Email: jobs<at>jaycar.com.au
Jaycar Electronics is an equal opportunity employer and
actively promotes staff from within the organisation.
Advertising Index
555 Electronics.............................51
Altronics.............80-81, loose insert
Aspen Amplifiers........................111
Av-Comm...................................112
BitScope Designs.........................71
Conference Plus...........................65
Delta Audio...................................95
Dick Smith Electronics........... 16-21
Dominion Electronics............27,111
Eco Watch..................................112
Elexol...........................................51
Satellite TV Reception
International satellite
TV reception in your
home is now affordable.
Send for your free info
pack containing equipment catalog, satellite
lists, etc or call for appointment to view.
We can display all satellites from 76.5°
to 180°.
AV-COMM P/L, 24/9 Powells Rd,
Brookvale, NSW 2100.
Tel: 02 9939 4377 or 9939 4378.
Fax: 9939 4376; www.avcomm.com.au
Furzy Electronics........................111
Grantronics.................................111
Harbuch Electronics.....................93
Instant PCBs..............................112
Jaycar ...........IFC,53-60,94,111,112
JED Microprocessors................5,94
Laceys TV..................................111
Lexicorp Electronics.....................65
Microbric......................................43
Microgram Computers....................3
MicroZed Computers....................49
NewTek Instruments.....................37
Ocean Controls..........................110
TAIG MACHINERY
Micro Mini Lathes and Mills
From $489.00
Stepper motors: 200 oz in $89.00, 330 oz in $110.00
Digital verniers: 150mm $55.00, 200mm $65.00
59 Gilmore Crescent
(02) 6281 5660
Garran ACT 2605
0412269707
SMD COMPONENTS: 1 Watt SMD
LEDs & specials. Go to www.lazer.
com.au
WEATHER STATIONS: windspeed &
direction, inside temperature, outside
temperature & windchill. Records highs
& lows with time and date as they occur.
Optional rainfall and PC interface. Used
by government departments, farmers,
pilots and weather enthusiasts. Other
models with barometric pressure, humidity, dew point, solar radiation, UV,
leaf wetness, etc. Just phone, fax or write
for our FREE catalog and price list. Eco
112 Silicon Chip
Watch phone: (03) 9761 7040; fax: (03)
9761 7050; Unit 5, 17 Southfork Drive,
Kilsyth, Vic. 3137. ABN 63 006 399 480.
RCS RADIO/DESIGN is at 41 Arlewis
St, Chester Hill 2162, NSW Australia
and has all the published PC boards
from SC, EA, ETI, HE, AEM & others.
Ph (02) 9738 0330. sales<at>rcsradio.
com.au, www.rcsradio.com.au
WANTED TO BUY
DESTITUTE RETIREE RECORDIST
will give good home to unwanted tape
reels 10½ NAB or 7 or 8¼ Ferrograph.
Free or very cheap. Pay postage or
freight. Buy or beg Ferrograph recorder
or Tandberg or Sony in working order.
Phone (02) 4990 6271.
KIT ASSEMBLY
NEVILLE WALKER KIT ASSEMBLY
& REPAIR:
• Australia wide service
• Small production runs
• Specialist “one-off” applications
Phone Neville Walker (07) 3857 2752
Email: flashdog<at>optusnet.com.au
Ozitronics.....................................47
Prime Electronics...........................7
Quest Electronics..................94,112
Radio Parts................................IBC
RCS Radio.................................112
RF Modules.............................29,94
RF Probes....................................47
Rockby Electronics................. 38-39
SC Perf Elect. For Cars................84
Silicon Chip Binders.....................27
Silicon Chip Bookshop....... 104-105
Silicon Chip Subscriptions.........103
Silvertone Electronics................111
Siomar Batteries..........................95
Speakerbits................................111
Taig Machinery...........................112
Telelink.........................................94
VAF..........................................OBC
____________________________
PC Boards
Printed circuit boards for SILICON
CHIP projects are made by:
RCS Radio Pty Ltd. Phone (02) 9738
0330. Fax (02) 9738 0334.
siliconchip.com.au
Address
http://www.radioparts.com.au/
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AVS500 > DOSS 2.4GHz Multi-Sender
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December 2005 113
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