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VINTAGE RADIO
By JOHN HILL
Scrounging bits and pieces
One problem confronting the newcomer to
vintage radio is the apparent lack of
replacement parts for old radio receivers.
One way around this problem is to scrounge
and repair secondhand parts.
Although resistors, high voltage
capacitors and some radio valves
can still be bought from various
sources, it is wise to stock up on as
many secondhand parts as can be
found. Wrecking derelict radios
and scrounging usable parts has
been mentioned before in this column and its importance cannot be
overstressed. Many secondhand
components are quite serviceable;
often they are the only ones
available.
Early in my collecting career I
went to considerable trouble to buy
some of those hard-to-get high
voltage electrolytic capacitors.
These new capacitors have caused
me a fair amount of trouble
however, because most of them lack
capacitance.
I recently discovered that some
of my cherished 16µF 500V electrolytics (which were being saved
for replacements in my more
valuable receivers) aren't much
good. These capacitors are of South
Korean manufacture and, on
average, measure only 2-3µF. This
simply means that they are not of
much use. In many cases, far better
capacitors were being removed
than were being replaced.
This experience has made me
take another look at the alternative
- old electrolytics of the secondhand variety. I know this subject
has been touched on before but
high voltage electrolytics can be
quite a problem in valve radios and
such problems need to be discussed
in detail. At one stage I was all in
favour of discarding old electrolytics but now I find that many of
them are more serviceable than
some of the new ones I have bought.
Electrolytic capacitors vary
greatly regarding their useful 1ife
span. Some will still be working
after 40 or more years, while others
will not last half that time.
Therefore, if old electrolytics are to
be reused they must be thoroughly
checked out first. In some cases,
"repairs" will be required.
There are a number of malfunctions that will put an old electrolytic out of action or considerably decrease its efficiency.
These faults are: internal short circuits, internal disconnections, partial short circuits (high leakage) and
drying out of the electrolyte.
Simple checks
These relatively new high-voltage electrolytic capacitors measured only about
3µF when tested for capacitance, so they were hardly a bargain. An
alternative approach is to scrounge parts from sets that cannot be restored
and from old b&w TV sets.
8
SILICON CHIP
The first two problems are easily
detected by using a multimeter set
to the lkO scale. Short circuited
capacitors will show full pointer
deflection on the meter while an
open circuit capacitor will show no
movement at all. Such capacitors
are instant candidates for the rubbish bin.
condition and can be used.
Incidentally, an analog type
multimeter with a pointer is a more
convenient instrument than a
digital meter for checking electrolytics. Although it is possible for
a digital meter to be used, a moving
pointer gives an easily understood
indication that can be seen at a
glance.
These capacitor tests require no
accurate measurements. All that
needs to be seen is the quick
· response of the rising pointer
followed by a drop off to zero or
thereabouts.
Test lead polarity
All these components were salvaged from a black and white (valve type) TV
set. Most of the capacitors are serviceable and have high voltage ratings just right for valve radio replacements. Other useful parts in a b&w TV set
are valve sockets and high wattage resistors.
Partially short circuited (high
leakage) electrolytics can also be
detected with a multimeter. Such
capacitors will show up on the
meter by a rapid rise in the pointer
as the capacitor is charged by the
meter battery. The pointer will then
slowly slide back towards zero
ohms, stopping somewhere between
100k0 and lMO, depending on the
amount of electrical leakage in the
capacitor.
However, don't throw these
capacitors away just yet. They may
still be usable as we shall see later
on.
Finally, an electrolytic in good
condition should behave in the
following manner when tested with
an ohmmeter. First, the pointer
should rise quickly to about half
scale deflection for a. 16µF capacitor. Once a state of full charge
has been reached the pointer will
then drop back to almost zero.
Any electrolytic of 8-24µF that
reads 5MO or more while in this
charged state is in reasonably good
An electrolytic capacitor in this condition can usually be
salvaged by applying a coating of glue to the neoprene
seal. Check the capacitor for capacitance and leakage
before using it, as a faulty electro can cause big troubles.
If you are using an analog
multimeter to test electrolytics, connect the red meter lead to the
negative end of the capacitor under
test and the black meter lead to the
positive end. This is most important. If one cares to check these
meter leads with a voltmeter, the
reason for this soon becomes apparent. You will find that the.
positive meter lead (red) has a
negative voltage on it and the
negative lead (black) has a positive
voltage, when in the ohms mode.
The reverse applies to digital
meters. In this case, you connect
the red meter lead to the positive
end of the capacitor and the black
lead to the negative end.
N~ let's get back to those electrolytics with a high leakage
problem and see what can be done.
Selleys "Kwik Grip" is a suitable glue for resealing
suspect end seals. Provided they are carefully patched
up and checked out, old electrolytics should give years of
reliable service.
DECEMBER 1989
9
If they're like this, throw them out! These old Ducon electrolytic capacitors
are beyond repair and are typical of the units found in early valve radios.
position, the capacitor can be considered perfectly reusable.
On the other hand, if the
voltmeter drops 20-30 volts or
more, the capacitor has a leakage
problem. However, in many cases,
the meter pointer will slowly rise as
the dielectric reforms and will
usually keep doing so until it
reaches the normal HT voltage.
Some electrolytics respond to this
treatment very well and a few
minutes on the test rig quickly fixes
any problems. Others require more
time and will still have a bit of
leakage afterwards, although it will
be nowhere near as bad as it was
before.
On odd occasions an electrolytic
is too far gone and the amount of
electrical leakage is such that the
capacitor heats up, which is a fair
indication that things are not well
inside. In these circumstances, continued application of HT will only
make things worse and the
capacitor should be discarded.
By the way, always make sure
that the capacitor is fully discharged before attempting to remove it
from circuit or you could get a nasty
shock. Don't just short-circuit the
terminals though. Instead, discharge the capacitor through a tkn
5W resistor.
Checking capacitance
Many digital multimeters now include several capacitance ranges as a
standard feature. Alternatively, you can buy a specialised capacitance meter
if you are into serious restoration work.
Electrolytics that pass too much
current are possibly inefficient
because they have been out of service for a prolonged period of time.
Although such capacitors appear to
be a bit sick, they often respond
favourably to being connected to a
DC supply for a short time. When
given this treatment the oxide
dielectric of the capacitor will
usually reform, thus greatly reducing the leakage.
Perhaps the easiest way to put a
DC potential on an old high-voltage
electrolytic is to temporarily connect it across the high tension supp10
SILICON CHIP
ly of a radio in good working condition - but take care because 250
volts DC can deliver a very potent
electrical shock. I have an old
radiogram chassis on my work
bench which serves this purpose
quite well.
It is interesting to note the
behaviour of a voltmeter connected
across the high tension when an old
electrolytic is placed into the circuit. It will give a very good indication of capacitor condition.
If the pointer falls slightly (about
5-10 volts) when the electrolytic is
put on test, then rises to its original
If old electrolytics are to be put
back into service they should also
be checked for capacitance at some
stage of the proceedings. This can
be easily done on a multimeter that
has a capacitance range.
A capacitance check should be
made prior to the HT treatment
described above. There is no better
way to wreck a perfectly good
multimeter than to check the capacitance of a charged capacitor particularly a high voltage electrolytic.
Sealing the ends
Anyone familiar with old electrolytics will have no doubt noticed
that a good many of them
deteriorate at the seal end.
Deterioration can take the form of
cracking in older electros or a
blister-like bulge in more recent
types. Quite often such a capacitor
will still be in good working order
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These old electrolytic capacitors were scrounged from various sources. A fair
percentage of them will check out OK and can be pressed into service but it is
a good idea to reform the oxide dielectric first by connecting them across a
DC supply.
but once the seal breaks down, it's
not long before the capacitor dries
out and gives trouble.
The seal at the positive end of an
electrolytic gives plenty of warning
that it will eventually fail. Cracks or
blistering will start to show years
before the final breakdown of the
capacitor. Therefore a little bit of
preventive maintenance can greatly extend the life of such a
capacitor.
The neoprene or fibre seal can be
substantially reinforced with a
generous application of a suitable
glue. Selleys "Quickgrip" appears
to be ideal for this job and several
coats on the seal will prevent further trouble. In fact, this treatment
can extend the life of a doubtful
electrolytic by many years.
Other capacitors
Valve radios also use a considerable number of high voltage
capacitors apart from the electrolytics just discussed. These
smaller paper ca_pacitors usually
range from around .002µF to 0.5µF.
Once again, suitable replacements
can be scrounged.
When one considers the price of
new high voltage capacitors, this
procedure is not such a bad idea.
At the time of writing, a 0.1 µF 630V
capacitor can cost between $1 and
$1.50. Such prices can make the
cost of a radio restoration a bit
more expensive than it need be.
Old black and white TVs (valve
types) are an excellent supply
source of modern polyester high
voltage capacitors. These obsolete
receivers can often be picked up for
nothing, yet they contain handfuls
of usable components - mainly
capacitors, resistors and the odd
electrolytic.
Although old b&w television sets
and other discarded electronic
equipment may be a good source of
usable spares, every secondhand
component must be thoroughly inspected before it is installed in
some other piece of equipment. A
faulty capacitor can cause a good
deal of trouble in a vintage radio.
In practice, about 99% of parts
check out OK and are quite serviceable - but they must be
checked!
In conclusion, there are heaps of
usable spares for the taking if one
is prepared to spend a little time
and effort chasing them up. If
money is a problem with your
restoration work, then try scrounging a few secondhand parts on the
cheap. By using carefully selected
secondhand components, you can
considerably reduce the cost of vintage radio restoration.
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DECEMBER 1989
11
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