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A Sharp in Pye clothing
What's in a name? So goes the popular adage and
the implication is: not much. Even the Bard was
moved to suggest that "a rose by any other name
would smell as sweet". Maybe so, but a TV chassis
made under one name and sold under another can
smell sour indeed if the original name is not
immediately apparent.
This story started when one of
my regular customers called into
the shop and announced that his TV
set had finally packed it in. This
was no surprise really because he
had been complaining for some time
that it was "getting a bit cranky",
although the fault never seemed to
be definite enough to justify his
bringing the set in.
Now it had stopped completely so
at least I would have something
tangible to look for.
When he brought the set in it
turned out to be a 34cm Pye Model
14G4. This was a set which, as far
as I could recall, I had not encountered before. What was more,
I doubted whether I had a manual
for it and a search through my Pye
manuals confirmed this, the closest
one being for a Pye 14G 1.
This didn't help much. The 14G1
is actually a Toshiba chassis which
was also marketed under the Precedent label. More to the point, it was
obviously nothing like the set in
front of me. There was little doubt
in my mind that the chassis had
come from another manufacturer
but, for the life of me, I couldn't
identify it.
Stop laughing
Such a situation can be serious.
If the fault is relatively simple it is
sometimes possible to muddle
through on the basis of one's
general knowledge. But if it's a
sticky one, it may be wiser to knock
it back before becoming involved.
58
SILICON CHIP
Time is money and such sets are
best left to someone who has more
experience with that particular
model.
But I wasn't going to give up immediately. I decided to give the set
a quick once over for anything obvious and, if this showed promise,
approach some of my colleages in
the hope that I could borrow a
manual. Time enough to panic when
all else failed, I reckoned. In the
meantime, I felt sure that I should
be able to recognise the chassis, if
only I could tap into the right
memory bank. Hopefully, working
on the chassis might provide a clue.
A preliminary check revealed an
immediate reason why the set
would not work - both mains
fuses, 2A delay types, were blown.
From here I moved to the power
TETIA TV TIP
National CP2000
Symptom: Hum bars. Vertical lines
in the picture waver from side to
side and sometimes black patches
can be seen at the edges of the
screen . Only 1V difference between collector of TR806 and
TP-S1, instead of 8V. TR851
(2SC64 7) leaky or short circuited.
Cure: Replace TR851 and also
TR806 (2SC582), 0814
(EQB01-15) and 0812 (SV04) .
Any or all of these components
can break down under load and
destroy TR851 .
supply, a fairly conventional arrangement consisting of a bridge
rectifier, main filter capacitor and
a 2SC2365 chopper-cum-regulator
transistor.
The latter was an obvious
suspect and sure enough, it was a
top-quality short circuit. Based on
experience, my next suspect was
the horizontal output transistor, a
2SD869. Right again. Which was all
very gratifying up to a point but
gave little indication as to what had
caused all this; which transistor
had failed first and taken out the
other one?
I decided to replace both transistors, then sneak up on the set
and try to find any other faults
without doing any more damage. I
replaced the chopper transistor
with a 2SD380 and the horizontal
output transistor with a 2SD898.
Sneaking up
With two new fuses in place it
was time to start my sneaking up
procedure. I connected the set to a
Variac and gradually increased the
input voltage while monitoring
what was fairly obviously the main
HT rail. Nothing happened - good
or bad. There was no sign of any HT
voltage, nor were there any signs of
distress at a moderate input
voltage. But there was obviously
another fault lurking somewhere.
A resistance check between the
HT rail and chassis confirmed my
suspicions - a dead short. But
where? Now I really did need a circuit; the idea of trying to track
down a short of this kind, on a rail
which would undoubtedly wander
all over the place, did not appeal
one little bit.
Then suddenly the memory bank
came good; the chassis I was looking at was a Sharp. With spirits
revived I began searching through
my Sharp manuals, hoping that I
might have the right one and that I
.
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Having made that deduction,
checking the zener (ZD702} was
largely a formality and explained
the HT rail-to-chassis short. It also
suggested a likely sequence of
events. My bet is that the chopper
transistor failed first and the zener
made the supreme sacrifice as a
result - but not before the horizontal output transistor had also
succumbed.
That much established I simply
lifted the zener and started from
scratch again with the Variac . This
time I was rewarded with a rail
voltage and some signs of life, in the
form of a raster. Well, that was
something but there was no sign of
a picture and no sound. Also, the
raster was very bright, with visible
flyback lines and some evidence of
hum. The brightness control also
appeared to be inoperative.
Other damage
...
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would be able to recognise it if I did.
It so happens that, some time ago,
a colleague retired from his
business and I was able to buy a
stack of manuals from him at a very
modest price. This now paid off
handsomely. The first clue was the
photograph on the cover, even
though this was not necessarily
conclusive. But what was conclusive was a notation above it, in
my colleague's handwriting, "Pye
14G4".
With the circuit in front of me,
everything made a lot more sense. I
had done everything right so far, including picking the HT rail, which I
now learned operated at 115V.
More importantly I was reminded of a design trick used on many
Sharp models; that of fitting a
sacrificial zener diode between the
HT rail and chassis to protect the
rest of the set · in the event of a
voltage regulator failure in the
power supply. (This is not the only
protective circuit in this set}.
The zener is normally rated
about 10V above the rail voltage
and, in the event of a minor
overload, will simply load the rail
and hold the voltage down. But
there is very little protective
resistance in its circuit and a major
fault will cause it to break down
permanently.
All the evidence suggested that
there had been a major fault. The
circuit is such that a shorted chopper transistor will put the full
bridge rectifier voltage, some 300V
plus, on the HT rail; more than double its intended value. And that
could do a lot of damage.
All in all, the situation didn't look
too good. With no picture or sound I
began speculating on what other
damage the excessive rail voltage
may have caused, particularly to
the front end components such as
the tuner, the IF signal processing
IC (!201}, and the video signal processing IC (!401}. This latter includes the brightness control
circuit.
I searched through my stock of
!Cs and to my surprise found that I
had both the 1201 unit (0062CE} and
the !401 unit (0118CE} in stock. I
had apparently bought them at
some time for a now long-forgotten
job but had never used them. Well,
at least it would not be hard to provide replacements if further checking supported such a move.
But I had no intention of taking
such a drastic step at this stage. To
begin with, I was more concerned
with the excessive screen brightness. The neck board of this set carries an adjustment called a
"screen" control. This consists of a
pot, R878, which varies the G2
voltage on the picture tube. It is used as an auxiliary brightness control during setting up procedures.
On an impulse I wound this control back as far as it would go. It
had some effect but not much. Then
I had another inspiration; I wound
back the bias controls - R851 ,
FEBRUARY1989
59
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Fig.I: power supply and horizontal output circuitry for the Pye 14G4. The chopper transistor (Q701) failed and
took out several other components with it. The neck board is supplied from point H2 at the bottom of the circuit
(ie, from the HT rail via ZD702).
R856 and R863 - on the red, green
and blue driver transistors (Q850,
Q851 and Q852). This reduced the
brightness much more effectively,
even though I wasn't sure just what
this was supposed to prove.
In fact, it proved something very
important because a closer look at
the screen revealed that I now had
a faint picture. Perhaps "proved"
was too strong a word but it at least
suggested that my fears about
damage to front end components
were groundless.
Thus encouraged, I began a more
detailed examination of the neck
board operating conditions and it
didn't take long to establish that the
collectors of the three driver transistors (red, green and blue) had no
voltage on them. Small wonder that
the screen was excessively bright.
These collectors are fed from the
60
SILICON CHIP
115V HT rail via a 100 safety
resistor, R725, which connects to a
line marked "HZ" (shown at the
bottom of the circuit). This resistor
was open circuit and replacing it
brought the picture tube operating
conditions back to normal. Of
course, I had to reset the screen
and bias pots back to near their
original settings because the screen
was now much too dark. (I subsequently did a complete grey scale
adjustment).
This left the lack of sound as the
only remaining problem although I
had no inkling of what solving this
would entail. The sound section is
contained in IC 1301 (0096CE) and
my first move was to check the supply voltage to this IC, which is supposed to be 12.BV applied to pin 10.
In fact, it was zero. This voltage is
derived from the secondary wind-
ing of the power supply transformer, T701, via diode D706 and
filter capacitor C716.
I checked across the filter
capacitor but there was no voltage
there either. I checked the diode
and it was OK. There is also a safety resistor, R719, in the circuit and
this checked OK. By this time, there
was little left to suspect other than
a lack of voltage across the
transformer winding and this proved to be the case.
But why? The winding was intact
so why wouldn't it produce voltage?
(you'll never guess the answer).
One thing was obvious - there was
something very silly going on in the
power supply. As well as the lack of
secondary voltage, there were two
other symptoms: a quite obvious
hum pattern on the screen (which I
mentioned earlier) and, I now
mode at the correct voltage by
courtesy of the Variac (which
meant that there was no voltage
regulation). Had I paid more attention to the setting of the Variac, I
might have woken up sooner.
It also explained why there was
no voltage across the secondary
winding; there was only DC flowing
in the primary instead of the chopped current from the chopper
transistor.
I fitted another 2SD380 - they
are not cheap, by the way - refitted Q702, Q703 and ZD702, tidied
everything up and tried again. I
paid more attention to both the input voltage from the Variac and the
behaviour of the HT rail this time
and was gratified to note that the
latter pegged at 115V as the input
approached 240V. What's more, it
remained constant as I simulated a
typical range of mains voltage
variation.
And, of course, the sound came
good, thus bringing the set virtually
back to normal. As I mentioned
earlier, it needed a grey scale adjustment and I found that the
volume control was horribly noisy
and had to be replaced.
Otherwise, that was it. The set
has now been running for several
weeks and hasn't missed a beat. So
that was another happy ending but
that's about the only part of it that
was happy. I don't want too many
more like that.
I WAS N\~e. CONc£RI\JE:D WITI-1 TH£.
From the Apple Isle
E:XCE.SSIV~ SG~E.E.N ~RIGH1tJE.SSoo• To change the pace,
realised, a total lack of regulation
within the supply. It was sitting on
115V simply because I had adjusted
the Variac to produce this voltage.
Regulator checks
I switched the set off and began a
systematic check of all the components involved in the regulator
section. I pulled out transistors
Q702 and Q703 and these checked
OK. While they were out I checked
some half dozen diodes and a zener
diode in this section, along with
the various resistors, but found
nothing. That seemed to leave only
the capacitors, since the chopper
transistor (Q701) had already been
replaced.
Nevertheless, on a hunch, I
checked the transistor again. And
would you believe it, it was a dead
short. How or why I don't know.
The only explanation I can offer is
that it failed when I first attempted
to energise the HT rail, before I
discovered that zener ZD702 had
broken down (which is surprising
because I advanced the Variac only
marginally before I realised that
there was unlikely to be any HT
voltage).
Still, this discovery explained a
lot of things. As I mentioned earlier,
a shorted chopper transistor in this
set puts the bridge rectifier DC
voltage directly on the HT rail, so
the set had been operating in this
here are
three shorter stories from my colleague, J. L., in the Apple Isle. They
emphasise the variety of problems
a serviceman is expected deal with.
Here's how he tells it.
A customer brought in a Teac
stereo amplifier, complaining that it
continually blew fuses. In more
detail, it had occasionally blown
one of its two fuses for no obvious
reason. But recently it blew both
and now would not work at all.
A quick examination showed that
one fuse was identified on the
board as a 3.15A 2AG type and the
other as a 4A 2AG type. The reason
for the difference was not clear
because both seemed to be
associated with the DC supply. I
guessed that they might protect two
FEBRUARY1989
61
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
separate rails - the output stage guitar amplifier. The guitar faults
and the rest of the works.
were obvious and easy to fix but the
I put the job aside until I could amp problem took a little ingenuity
get a circuit or service manual. This to sort out.
proved to be a lengthy exercise but
Both guitars were suffering from
eventually I had both. And five the same fault. The 6.5mm phono
minutes later I knew all about this output sockets had been forcibly
particular amplifier and its history. torn from their bodies and one of
This amplifier was a Teac A-515 them had taken the tone control pot
38W per channel model. Teac also with it.
made a 25W model, the A-313, usI understand that this is a coming the same circuit board. The mon problem. Young musicians try
larger unit requires two 4A fuses in to emulate the on-stage antics of
the feed lines to the bridge rectifier. their rock-and-roll heroes and a
The smaller one uses 3.15A fuses in 2-metre lead will not stretch to
this position. And rather than over- · three metres without something givprint different boards for each ing way. Either the plug comes off
model, Teac printed the one board the lead or the socket comes out of
to suit both types.
the guitar.
It seems that, in this amplifier, a
One of these guitars had been in
fuse had failed and it just happened for the same repair some time ago
to be the one in the holder marked and I had made a new mounting
3.15A. It was replaced, not with plate for the socket from a heavier
another 4A type but with a 3.15A plastic sheet than used on the
type as marked on the board.
original. The students had still
Of course, this didn't last all that
managed to break it so this time I
long and was soon replaced with made a plate from 1.5mm-thick
yet another 3.15A fuse. This ac- aluminium sheet. They won't break
counted for the history of fuse that in a hurry.
failures.
The amplifier was reported to be
When I examined the board more "distorting", though I couldn't
closely, I found that the fuse holder understand how anyone would hear
marked for a 3.15A fuse also had a that in the complex signals it was
tiny rectangle alongside with the being asked to process.
number A-313 inside it. The other
I connected one of the guitars
fuse, the 4A one, had a similar symand strummed a few chords. The
bol marked A-515.
output at workshop level sounded
It could be argued that these
quite clean. But then, who ever
markings are adequate but this pre- heard of a rock guitarist playing at
supposes the knowledge that there
workshop level? So I wound up the
are two similar model amplifiers, wick to loud, then to very loud, then
using the same circuit board with to glass-shattering level - and
different fuses. I didn't know that,
finally I heard it.
nor did the owner or whoever
I wasn't quite sure what it was
replaced the fuse on those previous
but
it sounded very like something
occasions. Not a really creditable
loose
inside the amplifier cabinet.
arrangement, is it?
What
I needed was a steady, high
The reason for the failure of both
level
tone
that would keep the rattle
fuses was simply that the power
going
while
I searched for the
amplifier IC, an STK465, had
source.
My
audio
oscillator providshorted internally. A replacement
ed
a
suitable
signal
and I soon had
IC put the amp back into first class
lO0Hz
bouncing
around
the shack
condition. And I scratched the
and
rattling
even
the
books
on the
misleading fuse rating from the cirshelves.
But
it
didn't
rattle
the
amp.
cuit board. That mistake won't hapSo I ran the oscillator up towards
pen again.
lkHz. Then I found it. At about
School work
250Hz the cabinet back began to
vibrate so strongly that it disapThe local high school sent up a
peared into a black blurr. When I
couple of electric guitars and a
62
SILICON CHIP
looked more carefully, I found that
each of the 16 screws holding the
back was undone by about half
turn. That bit was easy to solve.
I continued to crank up the frequency and at about 800Hz there
was another strong, noisy vibration. This time it was one of the tone
controls on the front panel. It had
come loose and the lock nut was
free on the shaft. This was a little
harder to secure but it was eventually done and the high school can
now start next term with a distortionless rock band.
a
Customer problems
I wish customers could be more
accurate in their description of TV
faults but I suppose that's hoping
for too much.
I've just spent the best part of a
week going backwards and forwards to an old Precedent that was
supposed to be suffering from erratic fine tuning. In fact, fine tuning
was only incidental to the real
fault.
The customer rang one evening
and said that her picture had gone
all wriggly, then had bent in the
middle and finally dissolved into
masses of dots. I asked her if the
other channel was also affected.
She hadn't even looked at that
before asking for help. She had to
leave the phone to check.
Back on the phone, she said the
other channel was OK but her
favourite program was still all dotty. Would I come and have a look at
it? I suggested that it sounded like a
fine tuning problem which she
could probably fix herself. I told
her what to do and to ring me back
only if that would not fix the
trouble.
I heard no more that evening, and
it was later the next day tbat she
rang to say that "the fine tuning fixed the fault last night but now it's
back again and this time the fine
tuning won't work. What's more,
both channels are the same now! "
There was nothing I could do but
put her on the list for a visit the
next day.
When I finally fronted the set,
the owner rather shamefacedly appologised because the set had been
perfect since the previous morning.
It was displaying quite a good
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v_w_,_,_ ,.
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Panel Cutout 65mm x 20mm
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Height
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But, as they say on the box,
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GEOFF WOOD ELECTRONICS PTY LTD
229 Burns Bay Road , (Corner Beatrice St.) iNc IN Nsw
Lane Cove West , N.S.W. P. 0. Box 671, Lane Cove N.S.W. 2066
Telephone: (02) 4271676, Fax: (02) 428 5198.
8.30am to 5.00pm Monday to Friday, 8.30am to 12 noon Saturday.
Mail Orders add S5.00 to cover postal charges .
Next day delivery in Sydney add $5.00.
Were
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• 640W Continuous
• 1280W 15 minutes
e aoov DC 750V RMS
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$174.90
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are available to special order on
short lead times.
HSG-0022 0-250V 0-1.2A $94.00
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SILICON CHIP
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0
I CONN~CT'E-t> ON& OF 11-1~ 6U\~'R.~
8t St'RUN\H\E:'0 ~ ~ CHORDS oo•
picture, except for some worminess
in the yellows. This is usually seen
in sets that are tuned almost into
sound bars. This seemed to confirm
my feeling that it was a fine tuning
problem, though I had yet to see the
full-blown symptoms as described
by the owner.
I tried fine tuning the set but
nothing happened. Then I noticed
that the AFC switch was on so it
was no wonder that the fine tuning
wouldn't work. With the AFC
switch off, I tried again and this
time it worked. As luck would have
it, I tuned deeper into sound and as
the picture broke up the owner
cried, "That's it! Thafs what it did
the other night!"
Adjusting the fine tuning "the
other night" had apparently cured
the fault. I asked her if the AFC
switch had been on or off when she
tried to tune the set. She couldn't
remember but thought it had been
on. If that had been the case, how
was she was able to tune the set?
In the circumstances all that I
could do was to carefully retune the
set, then advise her to call me if the
trouble recurred. She was back on
the phone that evening.
The next day and the day after
that were repeats of the first one more or less perfect pictures, with
only slight maladjustment of the
fine tuning.
In the end, I decided that the only
way to come to grips with this fault
was to run the set in my workshop.
It could sit there for days if
necessary and I would be on hand
when the symptoms reappeared.
And so a few days later I
delivered a loan set and collected
the villain. The loan set turned in a
first class picture which removed
any doubt that the customer's
antenna system might have been
contributing to the fault.
Next morning I positioned the set
on the bench and set it to channel 2.
This was the customer's usual
channel so it was the one most likely to show up the symptoms.
Again, the fine tuning seemed to
be slightly out but it responded to
adjustment. I couldn't work out why
it was just a little different every
day and always in the same direction. The way things were going, we
would eventually run out of
adjustment!
Still, the set had been running for
only about two hours when the real
cause of the trouble was revealed.
Although I was working on another
job at the time, I just happened to
look in the right direction when the
Precedent decided to play up.
First, the colour disappeared.
Then vertical lines in the picture
started to weave from side to side.
Finally, the whole picture collapsed
into diagonal lines as the horizontal
hold lost its grip.
So that was the real symptom loss of horizontal sync - and not
tuning drift . Of course, the
customer couldn't tell the difference between the sound bars I
had created while testing and loss
of horizontal sync.
Once I had seen the fault, I found
that I could easily provoke it by tapping the chassis in the vicinity of
one of the auxiliary boards, the
video IF module. These Precedent
sets use a Toshiba model C8.10
chassis which is well known for its
dry joints on both the mother board
and the plug-in modules. They use
double sided boards with numerous
pin-throughs which are notorious
for bad solder joints.
In this case, the dry joints were
on the video IF module (FM-106) in
the vicinity of the video detector
(IC-102). The result was a crushing
of the video output which reduced
the amplitude of the horizontal sync
pulses. Also, the video detector provides the control voltage for the
AFC module, so the fault had to
have some affect on the fine tuning.
Fixing the fault was easy, once I
had seen it. A few minutes work
with a hot iron on the IF module
cleared up the trouble. But like
most intermittent faults, it wouldn't
show up during the brief periods I
could spend in the customer's
home. And of course, the customer's description didn't help a bit! ~
FEB RUA RY1989
65
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