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Digital Sine/Square
Wave Generator; Pl.2
This month we present the constructional
details on our new Sine/Square Wave
Generator. The parts are all installed on two
PC boards which are soldered together at
right angles and mounted in a plastic
instrument case.
By JOHN CLARKE
Very little point to point wiring is
used in this project as it is virtually
all on the two printed circuit
boards. What little wiring there is,
is mostly associated with the mains
transformer.
The two printed boards occupy
just about all the floor space inside
the standard instrument case
which measures 263 x 190 x 84mm.
The main board measures 225 x
162mm and it has the power
transformer mounted directly on it,
which does away with the need for
a separate transformer baseplate.
The front panel is made from a
sheet of red Perspex measuring 250
x 75mm, the lower half of which is
covered with a Dynamark label. We
expect that kitsets will be supplied
with screen printed red Perspex
front panels. Behind the Perspex
front panel is a black plastic film
which masks all but the four digit
The main regulator (REG2) is mounted on a U-shaped heatsink which is bolted
lo the PC board. Notice how the plastic insulating sleeving fitted over the
power switch leads is extended back past the heatsink.
52
SILICON CHIP
displays so that components on the
display board are not visible. The
display PCB measures 227 x 75mm
and is mounted at rightangles to the
main board.
The complete 2-board assembly
is secured into the case by four selftapping screws which thread into
integral pilla rs in the base. The vertical display board is held rigid by
slots in the front of the case, along
with the red Perspex panel.
Board assembly
Before you start work on the
boards, check them carefully for
any open circuit or short circuited
tracks by comparing them with the
PC artworks included in this article. Also check for any undrilled
component holes - it is a pest to
have to drill holes in a partly
assembled board.
Note that three of the tracks on
the display board around S1 and S2
are open circuit at one end. This is
not a mistake - these tracks are
there to provide shielding
We suggest you start work on the
main board first. There are a large
number of links on the board and
these should be installed first.
Many assembled kit boards we
see don't look good because the
links are all untidy and crooked.
The way to make them look good is
to take a length of the tinned copper
wire and straighten it by putting
one end in a vyce and pulling the
other end with a pair of pliers to
stretch it slightly. You can then take
this length of nice straight wire and
cut it to length for each link. The
ends of each link should be neatly
bent with pliers so that they fit into
position nicely on the board. A little
care in this aspect can help make
your boards look a lot better.
Incidentally, some people may
question why we have produced a
board with a relatively large
number of links. Why not go to a
REAR
PANEL
CORO GRIP
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(BROWN)
HEAT SHRINK
TUBING
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double sided board and eliminate
them entirely? That could be dohe
but it would be a good deal more expensive and make no difference at
all to the final result. Double sided
boards are a good idea for mass
produced gear where labour costs
must be kept low but for this project
they would be a waste of money.
The four PC stakes are optional
but should be installed now if you
intend to use them. There are three
in the power supply section of the
board and one near IC7.
The resistors can now be installed. Note that all of the resistors
shown with a star in the circuit
presented last month and the wiring diagram of Fig.5 are 1 % types.
The 5-band colour coding for these
can be difficult to decipher. To help
\
FRONT PANEL
t NPO SEE TEXT
Fig.5: here's how to install the parts on the main PCB. Be sure to use 1%
resistors where indicated and take care with component polarity. All wiring to
the mains switch & to the power transformer must be run using 240V AC
cable. Note the wire link under VR3.
in this regard, we have included a
table of the all resistor codes but if
you are not sure about any resistor
value, check it with your multimeter before installing it.
Now the ICs can be installed and
when they are all in, the board will
look more than half complete. Don't
hurry the job though, as you could
make mistakes. Make sure that all
the ICs are placed in the correct
position and oriented correctly they all face the same way except
for IC2, the 74HC42.
Note that the parts list and circuit diagram presented last month
give a choice of 74LS (low power
Schottky TTL) or 74HC (high speed
CMOS) for a number of the ICs. The
only other permissible IC substitution is to use a TL071 instead of an
LF351 for IC5 .
Now install the diodes and transistors, making sure that each is
correctly oriented. The capacitors
and trimpots can then be added,
again making sure that the electros
are correctly polarised.
Cut the shafts of the two dualgang potentiometers (VR2 & VR3) to
a length of 29mm. They are
soldered directly into the board
although note that you might have
to make some fine adjustments to
AUGUST 1990
53
Cut the shafts of the switches and the single gang pot to 13mm before
mounting them on the display PCB. The pot is mounted on three PC stakes.
them later when the time comes to
mate the two boards together.
Regulators REGl and REG3 (at
the back of the board) are installed
upright, while the main regulator,
REG2, is mounted horizontally on a
U-shaped heatsink. Apply a smear
of heatsink compound between the
regulator base and the heatsink to
improve the heat transfer. Both the
regulator and heatsink are secured
to the PCB using a machine screw
and nut.
Display board
Work can now begin on the
display PCB. First, install the PC
stakes, noting that the PC stake
marked A should be installed from
the copper side of the PCB. Note
that there are three stakes for the
connections to the single gang pot,
VR5. The links and all the resistors
can now be installed. The displays
are mounted onto Molex pins so
that they are raised from the PCB
by about 4mm, to be closer to the
Perspex panel.
The transistors, trimpots and
capacitors go in next, followed by
the rotary switches and the single
gang pot, VR5. The rotary switches
and the single gang pot should have
their shafts cut to 13mm before
they are soldered to the board.
RESISTOR CODES
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
54
No
1
1
1
1
2
1
2
3
8
3
1
1
9
2
SILICON CHIP
Value
330k0 1%
270k0 1%
120k0 1%
82k0 1 % .
47k0 1%
39k0 1%
33k0 1%
22k0 1%
20k0 1%
18k0 1%
15k0 1%
10k0 1%
10k0
4 .7k0
2.2k0
2700
470
330
4-Band Code (5%)
not applicable
not applicable
not applicable
not applicable
not applicable
not applicable
not applicable
not applicable
not applicable
not applicable
not applicable
not applicable
brown black orange gold
yellow violet red gold
red red red gold
red violet brown gold
yellow violet black gold
orange orange black gold
5-Band Code (1%)
orange orange black orange brown
red violet black orange brown
brown red black orange brown
grey red black red brown
yellow violet black red brown
orange white black red brown
orange orange black red brown
red red black red brown
red black black red brown
brown grey black red brown
brown green black red brown
brown black black red brown
brown black black red brown
yellow violet black brown brown
red red black brown brown
red violet black black brown
yellow violet black gold brown
orange orange black gold brown
Finally, the DPDT switch (S3) can
be installed.
Mating the boards
The display PCB is joined to the
main PCB by soldering the underside of the main PCB bus to the
display bus. The first step in this
process is to fit the display board
over the shafts of the two ganged
pots, VR2 & VR3, and secure it with
lock washers and nuts.
Now ensure that the PCBs are
square and that the bus pattern on
the main PCB lines up with the bus
pattern on the display board. Tack
solder the boards together at
several points along the mating bus
patterns and then test the boards
for fit in the case. Do the same
check with the front panel fitted
(we're assuming here that the front
panel is finished and ready to fit) to
make sure that everything lines up
in the case. Finally, solder the two
PCBs together.
The wiring can now be completed. A short wire runs from the
Fig.6: install the wire links and PC stakes on the display PCB first, before
mounting the other components. The PC stake at point A is installed from the
copper side of the board. Point B on the earth pattern is wired to the bodies of
the rotary pots (see photo).
"A" PC stake on the main PCB to
the corresponding "A" stake on the
display PCB. Solder wires from the
VR2 & VR3 pot bodies to the B track
on the display PCB. This earths the
bodies of these pots.
Transformer wiring
The transformer is mounted on
the main PCB as shown in Fig.5 .
You will need to run hookup wire
from the OV, 7.5V and 15V AC
secondary connections on the
transformer to the three PC stakes
on the main board.
If you are working from scratch
and not from a kit you will need to
drill and file a hole in the rear panel
of the case to accept a cordgrip
grommet. This is to anchor the
mains cord. We suggest you use a
3-core flex which comes with a
moulded 3-pin plug.
Fit the cord and check that it is
held securely by the cordgrip grom-
Right: here's how to mount the single gang pot. Bend the
pot terminals so that they fit over the PC stakes and
make sure that the pot body sits flush against the PCB.
CAPACITOR CODES
□
□
□
□
□
□
□
□
Value
AH Value
IEC Code
Ell Code
0.1uF
.022uF
220pF
100pF
22pF
12pF
10pF
100nF
22nF
100n
22n
220p
100p
22p
12p
10p
104
223
221
101
22
12
10
met. The Earth lead of the mains
connects to a solder lug which is
secured by one of the transformer
mounting screws.
The Neutral wire goes directly to
one of the transformer primary connections while the Active wire goes
to the power switch on the front
panel. Don't connect it to the switch
at this stage though because you
need to go through a test procedure
before final assembly. Instead, connect the mains Active wire to the
other primary terminal of the
transformer. Fit heatshrink sleeving over the two primary terminals
or tape them up so that there is no
chance of accidental contact.
If not supplied ready made in the
kit, the Perspex front panel can be
cut to size and drilled for the switches, pots and BNC output socket.
To do this, first attach the
Dynamark label, then punch out or
cut out the holes in the front panel.
GO
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Figs.7-10: here are actual size artworks for the
two PC boards, the front panel and the light mask.
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VOLTAGE TABLE
The four 7-segment LED displays are mounted using Molex pins so that they sit
close to the front panel. Be sure to install each display with its decimal point
at lower right.
IC1
IC2
IC3
IC3
IC4
IC4
IC5
IC5
IC6
IC?
ICB
IC9
IC10
IC11
IC12
Q1
Q2
pins 11, 16
pin 16
pin 7
pin 4
pins 7,8, 12
pins 6, 1 3, 1 4
pin 7
pin 4
pins 6,10,14
pin 14
pin 16
pins 2, 1 o, 1 6
pins 4, 11, 1 6
pin 14
pin 18
collector
collector
+5V
+5V
+10V
-10V
+5V
-5V
+10V
-10V
+5V
+5V
+5V
+5V
+5V
+5V
+5V
+10V
-10V
do not read waveforms much
beyond lkHz. If there are problems,
check the component overlay
against your circuit for incorrectly
placed components and for short
circuits beneath the PCB.
In our experience, most problems
in kits of this sort are due to soldering and little else.
Setting up
Solder tack the two boards together in a couple of places and test the
assembly in the case before soldering all the edge connector pads. Make sure
that you don't create shorts between adjacent pads.
The masking film is installed directly behind the Perspex panel and
will also require matching holes for
the switches and pots.
Test the front panel for fit in the
case [see above) but do not fit it to
the board assembly yet since it will
interfere with the trimpot adjustments required for the setting
up procedure.
Power up
Before switching on, check the
mains wiring carefully. When you
are satisfied that everything is correct, switch on and check that the
58
SILICON CI-IIP
power supply voltages on each IC
are correct. This should be + 5V
for all ICs except for IC3 & IC5
which have a + 10V supply. You
should also check the - 5V supply
to IC4.
Most of the relevant voltages are
shown in the accompanying table.
The display will also be lit if all is
well.
If the circuit checks out so far,
check that there is an output on
both sine wave and square wave
using either an oscilloscope or
multimeter set to read AC volts.
Note that many digital multimeters
There are three setting up procedures required for the generator.
You will need a multimeter and frequency meter. As an alternative, an
oscilloscope can be used although
its accuracy will be limited if used
for the frequency adjustments.
The first operation is to set the
offset voltage at the output of the
generator when it is in the
sinewave mode. This is done by
measuring the DC level of the
sinewave when set to about lkHz.
At this stage, the output frequency
shown on the display will not be accurate but this is not important for
this procedure.
Set your multimeter to a low DC
voltage scale and measure the
voltage at the wiper (2700 resistor)
of VR5 (the output level control).
Now adjust VRl for a minimum DC
reading on the multimeter. You
should be able to set VR 1 for a
reading of less than 50mV DC the closer to OV, the better.
The se_cond procedure is to accurately set the frequency display
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This view shows how the metal bodies of the dual gang pots are connected to
earth (point B) on the display PCB. Also shown in the lead that connects from
point A on the display board to point A on the main board.
why not go for the maximum frequency possible? The reason that
500kHz should be the maximum obtainable frequency is because this
gives the best possible hash reduction with the tracking filter, which
operates in tandem with the coarse
and fine frequency controls.
If you have to change the value of
the lOpF capacitor, increase its
value to reduce the maximum possible frequency and reduce its value
to increase the frequency. Note that
there is space on the PCB to add a
parallel capacitor if necessary.
Now select the 1-lOOkHz range
with switch S2 and the O.lHzlOOkHz range with Sl.
Check the maximum frequency
obtainable with the coarse and fine
frequency controls set fully anticlockwise. Adjust VR4 until the
output frequency approaches
lOOkHz. If VR4 needs to be adjusted
almost fully anticlockwise, the 22pF
capacitor will have to be increased
in value. If the frequency cannot be
set close to lOOkHz, the 2 2pF
capacitor have to be reduced.
In the final result, you should be
able to adjust VR4 so that the frequency range is slightly beyond
lOOkHz. This will allow some
overlap between ranges.
Note that there will be some interaction between all these adjustments and so you may have to
repeat them to get the final result.
Final assembly
The two transformer mounting nuts should be soldered to the copper pattern
of the main board to ensure a good earth connection.
meter. VR6 adjusts the O. lHzlOOkHz range readings, while VR7
adjusts the 100-500kHz range.
Connect a frequency meter or
oscilloscope of known accuracy to
the output of the generator and
select the 0. lHz-lOOkHz range. Set
the output to a high frequency, say
90kHz, and adjust trimpot VR6 so
that the frequency display reads
the same as the external meter.
Similarly, select the 100-500kHz
range and set the output to a high
frequency, say 450kHz. Adjust
trimpot VR7 for the same reading
on the frequency display as on the
external meter.
60
SILICO N CHIP
Finally, the overall frequency
range of the generator needs to be
set. Select the 100-500kHz range
and determine the maximum frequency you can obtain from the
generator with VR4 set to about
half way. This frequency should be
about 500kHz. If this frequency is
reached well before the coarse and
fine frequency adjust pots have
reached their full travel or does not
reach anywhere near this figure ,
then the lOpF capacitor at pin 3 of
IC7b will require changing.
If you are obtaining a frequency
well in excess of 500kHz, you may
think you have a bonus. After all,
Now the front panel can be installed. Before you do that though,
fit the BNC socket which is retained
with a single nut. Don't forget the
earth lug for the BNC socket - it
fits under the retaining nut. Make
the connections to the BNC socket
with two short pieces of the hookup
wire, then fit the front panel and
the light mask to the display PCB.
Secure the panel by fitting the nuts
and lockwashers to the switches.
Now you need to wire the mains
switch. The Active wire from the
mains cord goes to one side of the
switch while the other side goes the
transformer primary. Fit heatshrink tubing over the switch to
make the mains connections safe
from accidental contact.
Finally, fit the lid onto the case
and you are finished.
~
|