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Another song about Sam
Following last month's introduction to
Samsung TV sets, I have another story
involving this brand; a really rare fault and
for several reasons, an elusive one to boot.
And from the Apple Isle - well, all is not
apples!
As with last month's Samsung
stories, this one involved a CB515F
from a local motel. And this meant
that I had less background to the
problem than if the set had come
from a private home.
This is a serious problem with
motel sets, as noted last month; it is
seldom that one person watches the
set for more than a few hours one night usually - and if they
complain at all, this is often forgotten by motel staff or written off as
incompetence on the part of the
guest.
Anyway, this story started when
the manager complained that one of
their sets was "hard to tune - or
hard to keep in tune". Given such
meagre information, I could only
suggest that he bring the set in
when business was a bit slack.
In fact, it was several weeks
before anything happened but the
set turned up eventually. I set it up,
switched to each channel in turn
and checked the tuning. They all
responded more or less normally,
except that the tuning adjustment
seemed to be marginally more
critical than on other versions of
the same model. But it was only an·
impression and I couldn't be
certain.
The truth is, sets which use trimpots to control a voltage to a
varicap tuner system are fairly
critical to adjust, particularly on
the UHF bands. If it were not for
good AFC systems, which take over
where the manual adjustments
leave off, setting up would be
almost impossible.
Anyway, having set up the channels, I closed the door in front of the
adjustments - which switches in
the AFC circuit - and switched
through all the channels again as a
final check. All seemed well so I
pushed the set to one side and left it
playing.
It played perfectly for the rest of
the day and for most of the following day. Then, late that day, I decided to go through the channels
again. And this was my first
sighting of the problem; one channel was off tune, having obviously
:,,, -- --- --- -- ---- --------- --------- - _,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - """ -
__ 1
:
,,
,,
.,
,:
PWB-MAIN-BOARD
.....
M,
,..
JCllt
Fig.1: channel selector and tuner circuit of the Samsung CB515F. The selector is at left
while the tuner, TU001, is immediately to the right on the main board. Resistor SR105
and zener diode SD101 are near the top of the main board section.
44
SILICON CHIP
l
dritted outside the range of the AFC
system, and had lost colour.
I retuned it and it seemed to hold,
at least for the moment. This
behaviour was then repeated
several times during the next few
days and not just on the one channel. In fact there seemed to be no
pattern to the problem; it came and
went at random. And even those
channels which held under AFC
control appeared to have drifted
when this was switched off.
Likely suspects
Well, at least I'd seen the fault
and knew what I was seeking.
There were two likely suspects:
either the tuner (TU00l) or the
selector unit with the channel selector switches, trimpots, etc which
delivers the signal control voltages
to the tuner. Both have given trouble in the past in a number of
brands and of the two, I tended to
favour the selector unit.
Just why these give trouble is
something of a mystery. They consists of two parts: a PC board carrying the channel selector switches
plus the various other user controls
(volume, contrast, brightness and
colour), and a block containing the
pots, etc. It is this block which
usually develops a fault and since it
is a sealed, non-repairable unit, it is
normally discarded without the exact fault being pinpointed. My
guess is that they suffer from either
internal leakage or faulty (dry?)
joints.
Anyway, the first step was to
determine which of these two sections was the likely culprit. This
was done by monitoring the tuning
control voltage at pin VT on the
tuner. If this remained steady while
the tuning drifted, then the tuner
would be at fault. But if it drifted
the selector would be suspect.
Although this is fine in theory,
such monitoring can be a time consuming procedure in the ordinary
way. Fortunately, I have a Fluke 87
multimeter and this features a
monitoring facility. The existing
voltage is used as a reference and
the meter then detects a rise or fall
from this value, and gives an audible beep. It's worth its weight in
gold for problems like this.
Anyway, it quickly clarified the
situation - the voltage to the tuner
~,," SE,S WH\Ct-\ use: 'TR \~'PO,S
-f"O CON""rROL A VARl CPtP TVNE.-R
'S ¼'STE:M A.'R~ 'F~\'RLY
C'R\1\CAL- TO AD:!"u'S, "".,
was varying. This virtually ruled
out the tuner and cast suspicion on
the selector block. Since the set was
still under warranty, I simply
ordered a new unit from Samsung.
This arrived in a couple of days
and I lost no time in fitting it. The
only snag was it made no difference. So was there a faulty
batch and had I been saddled with
a second faulty unit? Stranger
things have happened but I needed
help.
I repacked the new unit and
returned it to the service department with an explanation of the
problem and a request that it be
checked. The response was a
telephone call a couple of days later
from one of the technicians, who insisted that there was nothing wrong
with the unit. And while I was trying to digest the full implications of
this, he went on to suggest that the
fault was probably in the IF section.
I wouldn't buy that. Although not
impossible, there was the varying
voltage to the tuner which could not
be ignored and the fact that the
drift occurred on individual channels. When I raised these points,
the technician tended to brush them
aside. As far as he was concerned,
I should look at the IF section.
There seemed to be little point in
arguing; that was his idea and he
was stuck with it. More to the point,
I was on my own. But I had to concede that, if there was nothing
wrong with the replacement unit,
then the chances were that the
original unit was also in the clear
and I had to look further afield.
My problem now was that the
replacement selector was back at
Samsung and all I had was the
original. But luck was with me.
Almost immediately, another
CB515F came in for one of the
routine faults described last month.
FEBRUARY1990
45
SERVICEMAN'S LOG -CTD
That was soon fixed and I had a
golden opportunity to try another
selector, which I knew was OK.
It was a simple job to swap the
units and that settled it; the fault
was just as much in evidence as
before.
This was gratifying technically
but a bit of blow to my pride; I'd
been so sure that this was another
selector fault that I had hardly considered any alternatives. Now I was
forced to.
The most likely alternative putting aside suggestions that it
was the IF strip - was the supply
rail to the selector. According to the
circuit, this is derived from the
main HT rail (125V) via a 12k0 2W
resistor (SR105) and zener diode
SDl0l (UPC574) which delivers a
nominal 33V to the selector. The exact voltage isn't critical - just so
long as it is stable.
So how stable was it? A convenient check point was at plug and
socket combination SN0l which
feeds the selector, at the pin marked 33V. But the reading was
nothing like 33V; it was 70V plus
and quite apart from the main fault,
was clearly the reason I had found
the pot settings unduly critical.
pick this up. The set would work, all
channels could be tuned, and only
ari astute tester would pick the
marginally more critical adjustment. So out it went into the field.
Fortunately, I had a suitable
zener diode on hand and this gave a
rock steady 33V rail. Naturally, I
had to retune all the channels but
that done, the set was literally better than new.
So the technician at Samsung
was both wrong and right. He was
wrong about the IF system but right
about the selector. When I contact
him again, I'll put him in the picture. Who knows, there might be a
few more sets out there with the
same problem.
But enough of my problems here's the latest effort from J.L. in
the Apple Isle.
How to make work
A moment's carelessness · can
cause hours of unnecessary toil.
This happened with a Thorn 9503
but it could equally have been any
AW A or Thorn "G" chassis.
The initial complaint was bad
horizonatal sync and I tackled the
job in the customer's home. The picture was weaving from side to side
What's missing?
I wasn't really familiar with this
part of the board layout but I spotted the 12k0 resistor easily enough.
I checked it as a matter of course
and it was OK. I couldn't find the
zener diode, though. I scanned the
board a couple of times without success, then happened to glance at
the board in the other set.
And there was the zener, not far
from the 12k0 resistor, in a TO92
package. Closer inspection of the
faulty board revealed a couple of
holes and the marking "SD101" in
small print - but no zener. What
was more, an examination of the
copper side of the board confirmed
what I already suspected; there
never had been anything connected
to that part of the board.
In simple terms, somebody omitted to fit the zener diode during
board assembly and it is unlikely
that there was any test that would
46
SILICON CHIP
TETIA TV TIP
Kriesler 37-104 (Sharp 9C140
chassis)
Symptom: Set hiccupping, just like
earlier Kriesler and Philips sets
with a shorted line output transistor. This one shows some
leakage to ground but it is one way
only and is due to an internal diode
- the transistor is quite good.
Cure: R644 (2.20 ½W) open circuit. This resistor feeds the 115V
rail to the line stage and when it
opens it takes the line load off the
power supply. This supply hiccups
with over-voltage, not over current
as do most other Krieslers.
TETIA TV Tip is supplied by the
Tasmanian branch of The Electronic Technicians' Institute of
Australia. Contact Jim Lawler, 16
Adina St, Geilston Bay, Tasmania
7015.
like a hula girl in full swing.
Sometimes it broke up completely;
at other times it was almost stable
with only the slightest flicker.
My first thought was that it was
another manifestation of the "edge
connector gunk" used on these sets.
I have found an extraordinary
number of different faults that can
be cured just by cleaning the edge
connectors of the various plug-in
boards.
I pulled each of the boards and
cleaned their contacts and the
sockets. This seemed to be enough
at first, because the set came good
and played perfectly for the rest of
the day. But that night the customer
called to say that the set was as bad
as ever.
This time the problem showed
itself to be mechanical. It would
shift between "weaving" and
"breakup" each time I tapped the
board, which seemed to indicate a
broken joint of some sort.
In this model, the sync separator
is on the video/chroma output board
so I pulled that board and gave the
contacts an extra good scrubbing,
just for luck. I didn't have any (luck)
though; the fault was as bad as
ever.
I pulled the board again and
began a detailed search. The first
thing I looked at was the sync
separator transistor, Q401. A
multimeter test showed the transistor to be OK but while I was
checking the board from the copper
side, my fingers on the component
side felt something that wasn't at
all right.
In fact, I knew what I had found
without even looking. It was a old
style half watt resistor that had
once been very hot. It had swollen
in the middle and split along its
length. When I traced its tracks, I
found that it was the feed resistor
to the emitter of the sync separator,
R405 . Its value is nominally 1000
but was in fact varying between a
few thousand ohms and infinity.
It took very little time to change
the resistor and replace the board
for a test run. Only I wasn't careful
enough and my carelessness cost
me dearly.
A loud "psst"
The set was standing against the
wall in a fairly bright room.
However, the back of the set was in
shadow and I couldn't see all that
well as I pressed the board into its
socket. I have fitted these boards
many times before and wasn't particularly worried. But I should have
been more careful because when I
switched on, there was a "psst"
from inside the set and then
nothing.
I realised straight away that I
hadn't installed the board correctly. When I turned the set around into better light, I saw that it was sitting high in its socket and more importantly, it was about half the
width of a contact out of line. At
least some of the contacts were
touching adjacent pads as well as
their own.
I refitted the board, properly this
time, but no joy. There was a faint
raster and a quiet hiss from the
speaker but nothing else. Whatever
I had done, it was a workshop job
from here on.
Back at the shop, my first test
was to see if there was any video information coming into the video/
chroma board from the IF board,
PCB-HF. I didn't expect anything
because of the lack of sound so I
wasn't really disappointed when I
found no signal.
Next, I pulled plug FA, which is
the input to the IF board from the
tuner. I tried injecting a 1MHz
square wave from a small function
generator into the IF. In many sets,
the harmonics from the square
wave will pass through a functioning IF system and give an idea of
how well it is working.
In this case there was only a click
as the contact was made and then
nothing. Either the strip was totally
dead or the harmonics weren't
strong enough. It was time for some
better test gear. Among my homemade test gear is a portable TV set
with a modified link between the
tuner and IF board. It enables me to
extract IF direct from the portable' s tuner or to feed the portable
with IF from a suspect tuner. It's an
I
:;~ It
~
©•
g~
~
<.
r,.- -- ;,
.1 ---- :
~
o
l~~~-;i~,~
s~ ~
g8,
r=-:-...:.·1
~L. ___J
::,
~ <t
g~
~;g
>
- - - - ---+-'V\1\----+-'jf----t
i~
C
!
!
~ :~·
~ ~..
r-
-~~~-·~
-~--J
- ---'J
.';.~~~~~~~~~"!.~~~~
.
Fig.2: video IF and sync separator
circuitry for the AWA "G" chassis.
The tuner input is at top left, the
video IF IC below it, and the IF and
1st video transistors to the right. The
video/chroma hoard and sync
separator are at extreme right.
FEBRUARY1990
47
This signal then passes to Q101 (a
2SC383 HF transistor) and then to
the video detector, in can T108.
The first video amplifier, Q102
ideal tool for this type of inAlong with audio, H and V sync,
(2SC710),
is also on this board and
vestigation.
and an adjustable negative bias
from
it
the
signal passes through
In this case, a signal from the
supply, it comes close to delivering
pin
3
on
plug
FD to the video/
portable's tuner would not activate
every signal needed to test any part
chroma output board.
the big set, nor could the big set's
of a TV set.
I had to probe my way through
tuner drive the portable. It looked
this signal chain in an attempt to
Dead IF strip
as though both the IF strip and the
locate the trouble. In the event, the
In this case, I needed the variable
tuner had suffered a major blowup.
multiple outputs of the TV analyser
Way back in the closing days of IF output. . I fired up the old
proved
quite valuable although,
analyser,
connected
its
output
to
monochrome TV, I had bought a
looking
back,
I realise I could have
piece of equipment called a ''B & K the IF input and switched on.
found
the
fault
with nothing more
Television Analyser". It was
Nothing. I adjusted the input level
than
a
simple
multimeter.
from 500µV to lOmV. Still nothing. I
designed for testing valve type
Another thing that was working
monochrome sets but is still useful
swept the IF from 30MHz to
against me was that bloke Murphy.
40MHz. Still no response. The IF
for working on modern colour sets.
He made sure that I started at the
The analyser provides a monostrip was totally dead.
wrong end of the chain and wasted
chrome video pattern on a variable
This IF strip consists of one IC
an hour in fruitless poking and
IF, or on any selected VHF channel.
(IC101) and one transistor (Q101).
prodding.
It also supplies variable amplitude
IC101 is an M5183P which accepts
My first test was of the 20V rail
positive or negative video at an adinput on pin 1 and puts out a proto
the IF board and the 12V rail
justable horizontal sweep rate.
cessed signal between pins 7 and 8.
derived from it. Both were correct
and the specified voltages were
present on pin 11 of the chip and
the collectors of both transistors.
Next, I injected IF into pin 1 of
the IC. This produced no response,
so I moved the probe to test point
12, the output (pin 8) of the chip.
This did produce a result but not
quite what I expected; an extraordinarily loud burst of sound from
the speaker but no picture. (I must
learn not to leave the volume control flat out when working on this
kind of fault!)
This was a bit confusing at first
because the sound is usually taken
off with the video at the video
detector. This set is different in that
the sound IF is generated in a
separate detector attached to the
collector of the video IF amplifier
transistor.
At first I considered that the
video detector diode might be shot
as this would account for the loss of
picture information. I found the
. diode to be undamaged, then realised that this had been a silly deduction. If this diode was the cause,
then the sound would have been
normal because of the two
detectors.
Next, I injected video at test point
~WA.'1 'jsACK lN 1'\-\~ CLOSING "DA'-(S
15, at the input to the 1st video
amplifier. There was still no sign of
OF IV\ONOC-H'R0IV\E:. TV, 'I HA"C> ts0UGl-\".,a picture. Finally, I fed the video to
p.._ '°Pl!ZCE:" 0~ E"Q~W'('(\E..l\.lT CP-.LLED
pin 3 on plug FD, the input to the
A ":B&\<. TELEV\'StON AN~LYSE:."R'~ ••
video/chroma board. (This is where
SERVICEMAN'S LOG -CTD
48
SILICON CHIP
I would have started if Murphy had
not poked his nose into my affairs).
Immediately, the screen lit up not with any recognisable picture
but with some kind of scrambled information that looked as though it
could be resolved into a picture.
This was better than anything I had
seen so far.
Transistor checks
I pulled out the IF board and
tackled the video amplifier transistor. A static test with a
multimeter showed no problems it had no leakage and normal junction resistances. The resistors on
base, emitter and collector all read
close to the circuit values, and I had
already checked the collector
voltage as correct. So what was going on?
I refitted the board and freed
some of the cables so that I could do
some dynamic measurements with
the board clear of the cabinet. And
this time I beat Murphy. The first
check was at pin 3 of plug FD,
which is effectively the emitter of
the video transistor.
It was supposed to be 6.3V but
was in fact only 0.8V. I then went
right to the transistor and found
that although the collector voltage
was correct at 13V, both base and
emitter were very wrong at 0.8V
each. This was another one of those
transistors that passes a static test
but shorts when working voltages
are applied.
A minute later and I had a new
transistor in place and a picture, of
sorts, on the screen. I say "of sorts"
because there was no sign of sync,
either horizontal or vertical. And
there was no colour either. I had
cured the IF problem but still had
the original sync troubles, or
something very like them.
As mentioned earlier, the sync
separator transistor is on the
video/chroma board and this is not
easily accessible when the set is
operating. What is needed is an extension lead to enable the board to
be operated outside the set.
I had recognised this need some
years ago and used parts from a
junked set to make up my own extension leads. I was showing my
handywork to a colleague who surprised me by saying "I've got a full
AUDIO TRANSFORMED
set of those leads and I've never used 'em. Do you want 'em?" Murphy
again! Why didn't I ask before I
spent hours making my own?
Anyway, I soon had the board out
and powered up. First, I used the
CRO to check the video into the
noise canceller Q205 and then into
the sync separator. Both were
perfect, as near as I could judge.
But the output of the sync separator
showed nothing. Even with the CRO
turned up to maximum there was
only a faint ripple on the trace and
nothing resembling separated sync.
Again, a static check of the transistor showed nothing wrong but it
was a different story when it was
checked dynamically. The failure
was exactly the same as in the case
of the video amplifier transistor.
And because this was in a pulse
type circuit, it was harder to prove
that the transistor was faulty.
The emitter voltage was just on
19V as shown on the circuit and the
base was also around 19V because
the sync separator stage is normally biased off except when a sync
pulse is present. The sync pulse
continued on page 91
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(AUSTRALIAN MADE)
SHORTED TURNS TESTER
Built in meter to check EHT transformers
including split diode type, yokes and drive
transformers.
$78.00
+ $3.00 p&p
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Built in meter reads positive or negative 0-50kV.
For checking TVs, microwave ovens.
$84.00 + $5.00 p&p.
1
,.i
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Removes cathode grid shorts & rejuvenates
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12 months warranty.
$420.00 + p&p.
FOR PROFESSIONAL, OEM OR AMATEUR
Broadcast quality audio transformers ex-stock
More th an 70 standard types available
Fast prototyping service for non-standard types
Comprehensive data available on request
Locally manufa ctured
Competitively priced
HARBUCH ELECTRONICS PTY LTD
90 George St .. HOR NSBY NSW ~077 Phone (0~)476-5854
NEW PRODUCT
DEGAUSSING WAND: A must for all workshops. Efficient
design, strong magnetic field, low heat, double insulated with
momentary on/off.
$75.00 + $1 o p&p.
ALSO TUNER REPAIRS FROM $17.00.
Cheque, Money Order, Bankcard or MasterCard
-:r.V.TuNERs)
216 Canterbury Road,
Revesby, NSW 2212.
Phone (02) 77 4 1154
FEBRUARY1990
49
The Serviceman Know About Capacitors; Telephone Bell
Monitor/ Transmitter; 32-Band Graphic
Equaliser, Pt.2; Led Message Board, Pt.2;
Fluke's New 80-Series Multimeters.
May 1989: Electronic Pools/Lotto Selector;
Synthesised Tom-Tom; Biofeedback Monitor
For Your PC; Simple Stub Filter For
Suppressing TV Interference; LED Message
Board, Pt.3; Electronics for Everyone - All
About Electrolytic Capacitors.
June 1989: Touch-Lamp Dimmer (uses
Siemens SLB0586); Passive Loop Antenna
For AM Radios; Universal Temperature
Controller; Understanding CRO Probes; Led
Message Board, Pt.3; Coherent CW - a
New Low Power Transmission Technique.
July 1989: Exhaust Gas Monitor (uses
TGS812 Gas Sensor); Extension For the
Touch-Lamp Dimmer; Experimental Mains
Hum Sniffers; Compact Ultrasonic Car Alarm;
NSW 86 Class Electrics; Facts On the
PhaxSwitch - Sharing Your Phone Line With
A Fax Machine.
August 1989: Build A Baby Tower AT
Computer; Studio Series 20-Band Stereo
Equaliser, Pt.1; Garbage Reminder - A
7-day Programmable Timer; Introduction to
Stepper Motors; GaAsFet Preamplifier For
the 2-Metre Band; Modern 3-Phase Electric
Locomotives.
September 1989: 2-Chip Portable AM Stereo
Radio (uses MC13024 and TX7376P) Pt.1;
Alarm-Triggered Telephone Dialler; High Or
Low Fluid Level Detector (uses LM1830N);
Simple DTMF Encoder (uses Texas
TMC5089); Studio Series 20-Band Stereo
Equaliser, Pt.2; Auto-Zero Module for Audio
Amplifiers (uses LMC669); A Guide to Hard
Disc Drives.
October 1989: Introducing Remote Control;
FM Radio Intercom For Motorbikes (uses
BA 1404 and TDA7000) Pt.1; GaAsFet
Preamplifier for Amateur TV; 1 Mb Printer
Buffer; 2-Chip Portable AM Stereo Radio,
Pt.2; Installing A Hard Disc in the PC; A Look!
at Australian Monorails.
November 1989: Radfax Decoder For Your
PC (Displays Fax, RTTY and Morse); Super
Sensitive FM Bug; Build A Low Cost Analog
Multimeter; FM Radio Intercom For
Motorbikes, Pt.2; 2-Chip Portable AM Stereo
Radio, Pt.3; Floppy Disc Drive Formats &
Options; The Pilbara Iron Ore Railways.
December 1989: Digital Voice Board
(Records Up To Four Separate Messages,
Uses Texas TMS3477NL and 256K RAMs);
UHF Remote Switch; Balanced Input &
Output Stages; National Semiconductor
LM831 Low Voltage Amplifier IC Data &
Applications; Install a Clock Card In Your PC;
Index to Volume 2.
January 1990: Service Tips For Your VCR;
Speeding Up Your PC; Phone Patch For
Radio Amateurs; High Quality Sine/Square
Oscillator; Active Antenna Kit; The Latest On
High Definition TV; Speed Controller For
Ceiling Fans.
Note: November 1987, December 1987 &
January 1 988 are now sold out.
continued from page 49
drives the base more negative, turning the transistor on.
In fact, the transistor was leaking internally with normal operating voltages applied, and was
turned on permanently. Under
these conditions, the collector
voltage fell from the correct figure
of 4.1 V to something like 0.1 V.
I fitted a new transistor and
found that the set now worked
perfectly; stable sync, full colour
and all.
Post mortem
But why had the set been dead
from the tuner on? That 6.3V at the
emitter of the 1st video amplifier
also supplies a bias to the video IC
at pin 6. So the whole IF strip was
inactive when the fault was really
in the video amplifier. And the
tuner was inoperative because it
needs an AFC voltage which is
developed from a signal provided
by the IF chip.
Which brings me back to the
point made earlier. If I had been a
little more careful when replacing
the board in the first place, then
none of this story would have
eventuated.
~
Bose noise cancelling headphones for obvious reasons, maintained a
tight seal to the pilot's head.
The ear surround seal in the Bose
headset uses a combination of
silicone gel and soft foam which
follows the contours of the head to
create a better seal, with only a
slight amount of headband pressure.
Even without the noise-cancelling
electronics, the Bose headsets still
boast better passive noise attenuation than many of the ordinary
types on the market, especially at
low frequencies.
Specifications
Each earpiece has its own independent noise-cancelling system,
allowing for both mono and stereo
use. The sound pressure servo
system has been built using
surface-mount technology, allowing
Circuit Notebook -
from page 11
it to fit inside the earcup.
The impedance of the earpiece is
1500 and the system has a frequency response of 100Hz to 6kHz. The
power supply required is 150mA at
11-16V or 22-32V DC.
Applications
A number of helicopter and aircraft manufacturers are now offering Bose ANG headsets as an optional feature but Bose see the product as having wide application in
any situation where people have to
work for long periods while subjected to high levels of noise. And
who knows, maybe in the future
your W alkman will come with noise
cancelling headphones.
l!t]
Acknowledgement: our thanks to
Bose Australia Inc, for their
assistance in preparing this article.
continued from page 26
represent a variable inductance.
By varying dual gang pot VR1,
the resonant frequency of the inductor is changed and so the circuit can vary the frequency to be
boosted or cut. The filter is an LC
type based on the .001µF
capacitor and the variable
inductance.
Note that VR1 is wired so that
when VR 1 a increases its
resistance, VR1b reduces its
resistance. As shown, the centre
frequency can be tuned from
around 32Hz to 17kHz and the
available boost and cut is about
± 12dB.
The output of the circuit is
taken from pin 7 of IC1b via a
1k0 resistor and 1µF capacitor.
Darren Yates,
French's Forest, NSW. ($30)
(Editor's note: while the circuit
shown here is run from a single
supply, there is no reason why it
could not be modified to run with
balanced positive and negative
supplies).
FEBRUARY1990
91
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