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VINTAGE RADIO
By JOHN HILL
How to solve unusual problems
When one's hobby is restoring old radio receivers,
it is inevitable that every now and then a set comes
along with an unusual problem. Solving some of
these odd problems is often easier said than done
and the new chum to the vintage radio scene may
find some repairs quite difficult.
Some time ago, I reworked a few
of the sets in my collection. These
receivers were ones that l had
restored several years ago but, in
some instances, the restoration
work was not as good as I would do
today.
The reasons are many. First, I
did not know then what I know now.
Second, some recently acquired
test equipment (such as a valve
tester, a radio frequency generator
and an output meter] now makes it
possible to perform much more
precise tune-ups than in the past.
These reworked sets included a
number of 4-valve receivers ,
several of which responded extremely well to the fine tuning they
received. A 4-valve radio, in particular, requires spot on alignment
if it -is to perform well.
There was still another set that
needed attention and I had been
well aware of its shortcomings for
quite some time. While it looked a
nice enough receiver, it was a terrible performer due to poor alignment. This mid-1950s 5-valve
Mullard was so far out of tune it
was "double spotting". As the dial
pointer was moved across a station,
Small JOpF trimmer capacitors can be used to tune an IF transformer when
the normal tuning slugs are immovable. The alternative is to replace the IF
transformer but suitable replacements are not always available.
4
SILICON CHIP
the station would tune in, tune out,
then tune in again, thus occupying
two side-by-side positions on the
dial.
It was a problem I could not handle at the time because the iron
cores in the IF transformers had
been butchered. The screwdriver
slots had been gouged out by someone trying to get the rather stiff
slugs to move.
When I last worked on the
Mullard, I did manage to move the
slugs a little but it appears that they
were moved in the wrong direction
because the alignment got worse. In
desperation, the chassis was put
back into the cabinet and the set
placed in the "too hard basket".
Alignment techniques
Anyone familiar with old radios
will know that IF transformers can
be tuned by two methods. The
method used in the Mullard and
most other more recent receivers is
by means of adjustable iron cores.
However, back in the early days of
superhets, the IF transformers
were tuned with small trimmer
capacitors.
It therefore seemed reasonable
to assume that the Mullard could be
pulled back into alignment by adding some 30pF trimmer capacitors
to the base connections of the
transformers. Four trimmers were
soldered into the circuit to see if the
theory would work - and work it
did!
As it happened, four trimmers
were unnecessary and two were
removed from the circuit for the
better. Such a modification is a bit
of a trial and error affair.
To cut a long story short, the set
tuned up really well and the double
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Intermediate frequency (IF) transformers can be tuned by either adjustable
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This is the rear view of the old Seyon receiver mentioned in the text . Note the
2.5V SX245 output valve (centre) in the 4V socket (see text). You should always
be prepared to improvise to restore an old set to full working order.
spotting disappeared. While there
were other ways of solving the problem (eg, replace the IF transformers), the simple capacitor trick
got me out of trouble and that is
what this story is all about.
Harsh sound
Another problem often encountered when restoring valve
radios is harsh sound in a set that
lacks a tone control.
Quite often a set will restore OK
but the tone is either harsh or, at
the other extreme, dull and lacking
treble response. This change of
tone is often noticeable after a
loudspeaker has been replaced and
so some tone adjustment is necessary in order to give the set a
more pleasant sound.
This is easily done by installing a
high voltage capacitor between the
anode of the output valve and the
chassis. A capacitor in this position
has the ability to bypass the harsher high frequencies and they are
shunted off to earth instead of going
through to the loudspeaker. The
larger the capacitor, the greater
the effect.
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]ULY 1990
5
This is the Mullard receiver with the
butchered IF transformers. It lived in
the "too hard" basket for quite some
time until a remedy was found.
Always use a high voltage capacitor (400V minimum) in the plate circuit of the
output valve. By changing the capacitor value, you can alter the tone of the
radio to give the best result.
These heavy wattage wirewound resistors are the types to use as filament
resistors when using a 2.5V valve in a 4V or 6.3V socket. You can calculate
the resistor value using the technique described in the text.
tone can be varied by trying
capacitors of different sizes. A
0.022µF capacitor would be a good
starting point. On the other hand, if
a set sounds dull and lifeless, then it
is most likely due to too large a
capacitor in this anode to chassis
position. When this is the case, the
capacitor must be located (it could
also be on the first audio valve) and
replaced with one of less capacitance.
Most receivers without a tone
control have a bypass capacitor
which serves as a fixed tone control. In some instances, it may be
switched in or out of circuit by a
tone switch.
However, remember that a set
6
SILICON CHIP
sounds a good deal different on the
bench compared to when it is in its
cabinet. The baffling effect of the
cabinet greatly improves the sound,
so any adjustments to the tone
should be done with this point in
mind.
The old Seyon
One of my very early sets is an
old Seyon, an electric model with
4V valves (not counting the 5V rectifier). Replacement valves for such
radios can be a problem for they
are indeed a rarity today.
When I first bought the set, the
output valve was a B406. Being
fairly green about such things at
the time, I didn't realise that the
B406 was in fact a battery valve
and as such, was not suited to an
AC filament supply. The original
output valve could have been any of
a number of valves and I have since
discovered that an E406 works
quite well.
However, before the E406 came
along I was faced with the problem
of using an appropriate output
valve. Although the B406 worked, it
didn't look the part and it produced
a certain amount of hum due to its
lightweight battery filament.
It so happened that I had several
SX245 and CX345 valves in my collection. These were appropriate
output triodes for such a radio except that they had 2.5V filaments
instead of the required 4V filament.
To solve this problem, a resistor
was placed in series with the filament, after which the 2.5V valve
worked quite happily in the 4V
socket. Mind you, there was a surprising amount of heat generated in
the resistor but it did get me out of
trouble and that's what this particular article is about.
Now if you are clever and know
the filament or heater rating of the
valve, the value of the resistor required can be worked out by Ohm's
Law. On the other hand, if you're
not clever or have no specifications
on ancieut valves, there is another
way.
All one needs is an old wirewound rheostat (a 200 one or less)
and a multimeter.
The rheostat and the valve filament are connected in series and
placed across the filament supply
voltage, making sure that the
rheostat is set to maximum resist-
If you want to use a 2.5V valve in a 4V socket, the required resistance can be
determined using a rheostat and a multimeter. You simply connect the
rheostat (set to maximum) in series with the valve heater, and connect the
multimeter (set to AC volts) across the valve heater. The rheostat is then
wound back until the meter indicates 2.5V and its value measured to obtain
the resistance.
odes in the form of a fairly heavy
filament. Because these valves used
an AC supply, a special centretapped cathode resistor was used
across the filament to reduce mains
hum. The amount of resistance used
on a 4V valve would be different to
that used on a 2.5V or 6.3V valve
and the resistor should be replaced
if the filament voltage is changed.
Substituting a 4V valve with a
2.5V valve, as was done in the
Seyon, would require a centretapped resistor of a slightly lower
value. Not having the appropriate
resistor meant that it wasn't changed at all and that didn't seem to
make the slightest difference. It
also meant that no alteration was
necessary when the set was converted back to 4V operation.
There are numerous situations
whereby one can get out of trouble
by using a resistor and a valve with
a lower filament or heater voltage.
Such a method is quick and easy
and does not involve separate
transformers or other inconveniences. It is also applicable to both
AC and DC-powered receivers.
Warning signs
Some radios, such as this 5-valve Philips mantle set, have a tone switch at the
back which cuts in a capacitor that is used as a fixed tone control. Altering
the size of the capacitor affects the degree of tonal response.
ance. This done, the multimeter (set
to AC volts) is connected across the
filament of the valve.
The rest is straightforward: you
simply adjust the rheostat until the
meter reads 2.5V. The rheostat
resistance is then measured with
the multimeter to get the required
value for the filament resistor.
In the case of my valve substitution in the Sey on, there is a 4V supply with 1.5 amps flowing through
the filament resistor and the 2.5V
valve. Therefore, the potential
across the resistor is 1.5 volts.
Since Watts = Volts x Amps, the
wattage of the resistor required
must be 2.25 watts.
A 5W wirewound resistor would
do nicely, even if the valve drew
two amps. The 10W one I used was
more than adequate.
Most of the old 2.5V output
triodes had directly heated cath-
Although this story is about getting out of trouble, ignoring certain
warning signs can also get one into
trouble.
For example, my old Seyon has a
potential problem that I have ignored for years - one that could
give rise to a serious short circuit.
The 240 volt supply to the power
transformer is platted rubber
covered wire and over the years the
insulation has decomposed, merged
into a single mass and gone quite
brittle. Just how close those wires
are to each other is anyone's guess
and if there is a big zap one day and
a fuse blows then I will know that
they were a little closer than I
thought.
In my defence, there are two
reasons why I have not replaced
this old wiring. First, it has not been
disturbed and is in working order.
Second, the wires are not just rubber covered but also cotton
covered. That layer of cotton seems
to make all the difference and I
doubt if it will ever give trouble. Only time will tell.
~
JULY 1990
7
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