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VINTAGE RADIO
By JOHN HILL
Getting out of trouble again
Some time back I wrote an article about getting
out of trouble. No it wasn't about some domestic
problem or a brush with the law; it was about
getting out of the sort of trouble that vintage radio
restorers frequently run into. Repairing old
radios is not always easy!
The previous story was well received so I have decided to do another one along similar lines, but solving different probl ems. The first example is a good illustration of the
troubl es one can encounter when tinkering around w ith ancient radios.
The receiver in this case was not
min e. It belonged to a guy I know who
runs an antique shop. He usually
doesn 't stock old radios in his shop
because he claims that they are too
troubl esome , but h e bought this particular set because h e liked the look of
it. In fact, h e liked it so much that it
went into his house and not the shop.
Both he and his wife enjoyed their
old radio for a while, until it started to
crackle and make strange noises. In
due course, it ended up on my workbench for repair. The radio was a 5valve German Saba, a large table model
with a tuning indicator and a timber
cabinet.
As is typical of some European sets,
it required more than the usual time
and effort before the chassis and loudspeaker were on the benchtop, ready
German metal valves were nothing like their American counterparts. Finding
replacements for these valves was a problem for servicemen over many years &
led to many substitutions.
82
SIUCO,\J CIIII'
to be worked on. And it was obvious
from the start that the radio had been
serviced on several previous occasions. The strange mixture of valves
alone was enough to attract anyone's
attention. There were two original
metal valves, one miniature 7-pin
valve and one octal valve.
In addition, the rectifier valve was
missing and had been replaced by
solid state diodes.
The loudspeaker and several other
components WEffe dated February,
1939. No doubt this particular radio
had relayed the rantings and ravings
of the Fuhrer himself to some German
family during the war years.
German metal valves
The two original metal-cased valves
in the receiver were an ECHl 1 and an
EBFl 1 . I twigged to the valve problem
straight away because I had read about
German metal valves only a few days
before.
These valves were Germany's answer to the American octal metal
valves. However, the valves were by
no means interchangeable because the
German 8-pin base configuration was
nothing like the American octal configuration (see photograph).
The valve construction was different too. Instead of the valve elements
being arranged vertically as was the
established pattern of the times, the
German metal valves were made with
the electrodes running horizontally.
While .this made no difference to the
operation of the valves, it made a big
differenc e to their size and they were
much larger _in diameter than the
American metal types.
Apparently, the German valves did
not become popular (although Philips
produced some) and the intervention
of the war only made this situation
worse. German metal valves, it seems,
/
/
Only one of the these three valves in the old Saba is an original. At left is the
substitute 7-pin IF amplifier, at centre the original EBF11 duo diode triode
(AGC, detection & first audio), and at right the substitute 6V6 audio output
valve.
tally and a resistor rating of 5 watts
will usually be necessary.
(Editorial note: the cathode/plate
impedance of a vacuum rectifier, such
as an 80 or 5Y3, is relatively high. At
typical current drains (80-1 00mA), the
DC voltage from the rectifier is approximately equal to the RMS supply
voltage.
On the other hand, the loss across a
silicon diode is of the order of only a
volt or less, regardless of current drain.
As a result, the voltage across the first
filter capacitor can approach the peak
value supply voltage or 1.4 times the
RMS voltage) .
The ECHl 1 frequency converter
valve was still working OK, so this
part of the receiver had not been altered. However, the intermediate frequency (IF) amplifying valve had most
definitely been tampered with. As
shown in the accompanying photograph , the original valve has been replaced with a 7-pin miniature type.
This valve is mounted above the old
socket, with leads running down
through the old socket to the circuit
underneath the chassis.
This conversion may look a bit
makeshift but it is effective and the
substitute valve can be replaced as
easily as the original.
The next valve was the EBF11, a
duo diode triode which handles the
automatic gain control, detection and
first audio functions. These operations
were still being looked after by the
original valve and again there were
no modifications to this part of the
circuit.
6V6 transplant
The rectifier valve had been replace<;l with high voltage solid state power
diodes. This is not the sort of thing a vintage radio restorer would do unless
he had no alternative.
were used mainly by the Germans.
As a result, the receiver on my workbench was a hard one to buy valves
for. Now I'm not saying that they are
unobtainable, but the chances of obtaining a set of these oddball valves
would be pretty slim. They would be
quite costly too!
Interesting solutions
The interesting aspect of this set is
the ways in which presumably different servicemen have overcome this
valve replacement problem.
As previously stated, the rectifier
replacement was easily solved by substituting solid state diodes. Some
power diodes are rated at 400 or 1000
volts and these are suitable substitutes for a thermionic rectifier valve.
However, this modification will increase the high tension (HT) voltage
significantly above that available from
a normal rectifier valve setup. For
this reason, the HT voltage should be
checked and resistance added to the
supply line, ideally between the rectifier and the first electrolytic, to restore a reasonable value. The actual
value is best determined experimen-
The final stage, the audio output,
was another substitution job and it
was done in a different manner to the
IF valve and the power rectifier. In
this case, the original valve socket
had been replaced with a standard
octal socket and a common and easily
obtainable 6V6 valve installed in its
place.
This 6V6 transplant is perhaps the
neatest way to go about this type of
modification. While the little IF valve
mounted up on stilts works OK, it is
not as neat a job as the output valve
set up.
Likewise with the diodes soldered
to the empty rectifier socket. Admittedly it is a satisfactory repair, but not
the type of thing a vintage radio man
would go for. An empty valve socket
A UGUST 1991
83
done with considerable care.
First, the substitute valves will need
to be fairly close equivalents to the
originals. Second, each new socket
must be fitted and rewired in accordance with the original socket connections. Any foul-ups here could be very
difficult to locate later on.
So a job of this nature requires a
systematic routine. As each socket
connection is disconnected, the lead
or leads should be taped together and
labelled. Perhaps the serviceman's not
so neat techniques are not so bad after
all.
\
Curing the problem
This particular receiver can be converted from 2.5V to 6.3V valve operation
simply by plugging in the new valves & adding a 6.3V heater transformer. Not
all sets can be converted this easily, however. It all depends on the original
valve complement.
looks as though something is missing.
If a repair of this nature has to be
done, then at least leave the old valve
in its socket and install the diodes
und erneath the chassis where they
are out of sight.
Naturally, the serviceman and the
vintage radio restorer see things differently. The serviceman is only concerned with getting the receiver working again . The vintage radio enthusiast, on the other hand , not only wants
it working but also wants the set to
continue looking as it did before.
In the case of the old Saba with its
oddball metal valves, originality cannot be easily achieved. Perhaps a conversion to octal valves would not be a
bad modification in this instance. In
fact , a set of octal metal valves would
surely be a reasonable compromise.
But while it's easy to suggest altering the set to suit readily available
valves, converting the receiver is a big
job. Not only would the changeover
be time consuming but it must also be
Many valuable old valves can be reclaimed by replacing
missing top caps. This involves resoldering the top cap to
the lead where it emerges from the glass & then securing
the cap to the glass with a couple of drops of Superglue®.
84
SILI CON CH/I'
To finish off the story on the Saba,
replacing a suspect electrolytic and a
couple of sick looking paper capacitors solved the crackling problem. The
set was then returned to its owner
with the advice to sell it either to his
worst enemy or to someone with the
time and resources to restore it to
original condition.
It's not that bad really, but the old
Saba could be an awkward one to
repair the next time something else
goes wrong.
Continuing along in the same vein,
any type of valve modification is OK
if it allows a receiver to be repaired
satisfactorily. If an obscure type of
valve can be easily replaced with a
more common type, it can save a lot
of trouble and expense.
A receiver with hard-to-get 2.5 volt
A small transformer such as this will suffice for a heater
transformer. In some sets, converting from 2.5 volt valves
to 6.3 volt equivalents is one way of solving difficult valve
problems.
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Old 2.5V & 4V series valves such as these are often difficult to obtain and
substituting other valve types is one way of getting a set going again.
valves can be converted to early 6.3volt valves without too many hassles
due to the fact that the valve bases are
the same. In favourable circumstances,
all that is required is a 6.3 volt transformer for the valve heaters in place
of the original 2.5 volt supply.
There is often plenty of room under
the chassis to mount another transformer and special "heaters only "
transformers for that specific purpose
were made in the past.
In many cases, no other rewiring
may be required. Many of the early
6.3 volt valves were direct equivalents to their 2.5 volt brethren, the
heater voltage being the only difference.
In other cases, careful consideration must be given to the existing
valve types and to those that will replace them. The job may not be as
easy as first thought. For example, a
2.5 volt 59 output valve with its 7-pin
base has no convenient 6.3 volt equiva-
lent. On the other hand, a 2A5 can be
replaced with a 42, the heater voltages
being the only difference with these
valves.
Missing top caps
There is just enough space left for
one more valve hint and it concerns
valves with missing top caps. Usually
another top cap can be soldered back
on and a couple of drops of superglue
will hold it firmly in place. But sometimes the grid wire breaks flush with
the glass and there is nothing to solder to.
When this is the case, the glass can
be nibbled away with a knife or some
other suitable tool until it exposes a
short length of the wire. With care, an
extension can be soldered onto the
stump and, in turn, soldered to the
top cap. This process may be a bit
fiddly but it effectively restores an
otherwise useless valve to working
order again.
SC
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AUGUST 1991
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