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VINTAGE RADIO
By JOHN HILL
Converting a battery set to
mains operation
I recently completed a particular vintage radio
project that had been at the back of my mind for
quite some time. A fairly ambitious scheme, it
involved the conversion of a battery receiver to
240V AC operation.
The reason for such an insane idea
is simple. I live in country Victoria
and the area abounds with old battery
receivers of various types. In some
localities, SEC power was not available until the late 1960s, hence the
abundance ofbattery sets. If these battery radios could be successfully c·onverted to mains operation, then such
a conversion could be well worthwhile in some instances. Well, that
was the theory anyway.
There are two ways of going about
such a conversion. One would be to
build a power supply that would duplicate the receiver's battery requirements. Although the receiver would
operate on mains power, it would still
be a battery set in both design and
performance.
The alternative approach is a fullyfledged AC conversion whereby the
set has additions such as a power
transformer, rectifier valve, and a suitable complement of AC-type signal
valves. An appropriate loudspeaker
and output transformer would also be
needed. I was to find out, however,
that this approach was not without its
problems and that it wasn't as easy as
I originally thought.
In theory, battery to AC conversion
should not be that difficult and should
be a straightforward project. After all,
it only involves totally rebuilding
about two thirds of the receiver and
adding a power supply!
The radio I converted was a 1935 4valve table model Radiola. I have two
of these receivers and the idea was
that if one ended up wrecked due to
an unsuccessful experiment, then the
other could still be retained as a battery set. That theory didn't work out
as planned either.
The project was nearly abandoned
at an early stage because I could not
remove the chosen chassis from its
cabinet. Due to mouse infestation, the
much piddled-on mounting bolts were
well rusted into round brass nuts
which were riveted to a turned-under
flange at the bottom of the chassis.
Three of the four bolts "squawked"
their way free but the last one only
turned the nut.
The big hole
A large hole had to be cut in the cabinet of the old Radiola to gain access to a
rusted nut & bolt so that the chassis could be removed. Eventually, the bolt had
to be cut with a hacksaw blade to free the chassis.
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SILICON CHIP
It was at this stage that I realised
why there was a big hole in the bottom of the other cabinet. It hadn't
been' chewed by rats as I had first
assumed. Instead, it had been hacked
in by some distraught serviceman so
that he could obtain access to a problem brass nut that turned with the
bolt.
I did likewise but, despite the size
of the hole and the use of a pair of
locking pliers, I could not prevent the
round nut from turning. Eventually,
All this garbage didn't blow in during the last storm. Mouse infestation can
cause serious problems when it comes to restoring old radio receivers.
This photo shows one of the two 1935
Radiolas mentioned in the text. The
chassis and knobs from this set were
combined with the cabinet of the
other. Both were originally batteryoperated receivers.
adding an additional socket for the
rectifier.
Power transformer
The coils & IF transformers were mounted underneath the original chassis,
leaving the top of the chassis fairly bare. The dial drive mechanism was a
friction type but this was converted to cord drive for more reliable operation.
after cutting through the bolt with a
hacksaw blade, the chassis was freed
from its cabinet.
The original Radiola circuit is typical of the early to mid-1930s. Although
the tuning capacitor is a 3-gang type,
the set does not have any radio frequency (RF) amplification. The extra
tuning gang is for a preselector bandpass stage, which was a fairly common arrangement for a superhet of
that vintage with a 175kHz intermediate frequency. The extra tuned stage
was essential to avoid double spotting, a natural characteristic of the
low IF.
The valve complement of the bat-
tery-powered Radiola was as follows:
1A6, 34, 32 and 33. The 33 output
valve was one I had not encountered
before and while it looks like a 1D4, it
is a little different. According to the
valve specification manual, the 33 has
twice the output; ie, 0.7W as compared to 0.35W. Wow - what power!
Replacement valves
Suitable valves for the AC conversion were next on the list. The following were used: a 6A7 converter; a 6D6
IF amplifier; a 75 detector, AGC and
first audio stage; a 42 output; and an
80 rectifier. Unfortunately, this meant
changing every existing socket and
A power transformer was the next
item to be obtained and I was sure
that I had an AWA type that just might
fit the holes already punched in the
chassis. Unfortunately, it was different and the mounting lugs did not
match the hole positions.
The next transformer to bt3 considered was an old "Red Line" . It had 5V
and 6.3V filament windings and a
290V high-tension winding. It seemed
a bit of an odd one but it would have
to do. A rectangular hole was cut in
the chassis to mount it and it was
relatively easy to install. The 5V winding and the high-tension winding were
connected to the appropriate type 80
valve socket pins.
High tension filtering consisted of
a 550Q resistor with appropriate electrolytics on either side. This produced
a relatively hum-free DC supply of
around 250V, under a 50mA load.
Once into the conversion, it quickly
became apparent that there would be
only one complete receiver at the end
of the project. An open oscillator coil
and IF transformer set a pattern for
stripping the other set for spare parts.
What's more, one of the cabinets had
been previously refurbished and the
NOVEMBER
1992
59
stitution box, components of differing values can be switched in and out
of circuit at the turn of a knob:
IF stages
The AC conversion resulted in the chassis being almost completely stripped.
Note the mounting hole for the power transformer at front left. One of the end
panels is from the other chassis.
The IF transformers and the IF amplifier valve were the next to be wired
and this was a straightforward job.
What was to follow the IF stage was
quite another matter, however.
The AC version of this receiver uses
a reflex circuit whereby a particular
valve amplifies both radio frequency
and audio frequency signals simultaneously. But no way was I going to
invite trouble by converting to a reflex circuit!
I had on hand a 5-valve Airzone
circuit which uses a 6Q7 as a detector, AGC and first audio stage, ahead
of a 6F6 output. This circuit was followed fairly closely and was the basis
for the audio stages of the conversion.
The general wiring layout underneath the chassis ended up a bit of a
mess. There were connections on top
of other connections, joins in the wiring and some of the components used
were far from the 1935 originals. It
would make any purist throw up his
hands in horror, hence there is no
under-chassis photograph accompanying this story.
Next time, I will use a few more tag
strips to make component mounting
neater and more secure. One really
needs to do a few of these AC conversions in order to know where best to
arrange all the components.
Dial mechanism
This old "Red Line" power transformer worked in well with the receiver's
requirements. The 80 rectifier valve is immediately behind the transformer.
veneer had been rubbed down to paper thin.
The plan was to retain the front end
of the receiver as it was. The tuner, its
associated coils and the IF transformers would remain as original. The
leads to the 1A6 and the 34 valve
sockets were disconnected and tagged
with labels -Gl , GZ, A, etc. That way,
they would be easy to reconnect to
the new valves with their different
socket connections.
In the original wiring, the 1A6
pentagrid converter had no dropping
resistors to supply the valve elements.
The plate and screen grid voltages
came straight from the B battery.
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SILICON CHIP
When using a 6A7 converter, grid 2
(anode grid) and grids 3 and 5 (screen)
require dropping resistors from the
HT rail so that they operate at the
correct voltages. The old wiring cannot simply be reconnected to the new
valve without these circuit modifications.
A conversion of this nature requires
such additions so that the substitute
valves will function properly. One
must be prepared to experiment a little, though. Without a suitable circuit
diagram, one plays the trial and error
game and a couple of substitution
boxes (resi~tance and capacitance) are
handy in this regard. By using a sub-
Like many other receivers from the
mid 1930s, the old Radiola had a friction drive dial mechanism that was
chronically lacking in friction. But
although I have repaired many friction drives in the past, this particular
design is not an easy one to fix.
For this reason, I tried a different
app'r oach and converted the dial
mechanism to cord drive. This involved making a new control shaft
and fitting a dial drum to the tuning
capacitor spindle. There were a few
problems (mainly not enough room
for the drum) but eventually it all
went together and worked OK.
When the time arrived for the big
try out, it was a very exciting moment. But optimism soon turned to
despair! The best the set could manage was a few squeals on some of the
stronger stations. What could I expect
RESURRECTION
RADIO
Vintage Wireless Specialists
This rear view of the tuning capacitor shows the dial drum that was fitted in
place of the original friction drive mechanism. Lack of space between the drum
& the front plate of the tuning gang made the conversion difficult.
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counter a few minor problems, and
these must be tracked down and corrected. An additional resistor here and
a capacitor there can make the difference between the receiver just working and working really well.
Well that's the interesting part of
the project finished. The cabinet work
is all that remains to be done. It should
be a good cabinet to work on, due to
The finished battery-AC conversion - it's marvellous what a clean-up and a coat
its flat ;;urfaces and small size, as comof paint can do. The speaker is an 8-inch AWA "permag" from the late 1930s.
pared to a console cabinet.
Note the depth of the chassis.
Finally, a few words of advice. Battery to AC conversion is not as straightfrom such an outfit - part modified to blame for this and the substitution forward as one might think. If conoriginal and part Airzone? Time to boxes worked overtime.
templating such a task, give it plenty
The components causing most of of thought and try to pick a receiver
give it a rest for a while. Tomorrow
the problems were the resistors con- that's more suitable for conversion
would be another day!
After tracing through the web-like trolling the converter valve grids, couthan the one I chose. If it has octal
mess of wiring, it transpired that I pling capacitors in the audio stages
valves, it will be an advantage in that
had overlooked something very im- (0.02µF seems a good all-round figall the valve sockets will be compatportant - there was no bypass capaci- ure) and the plate bypass capacitor on ible with whatever AC valves are used.
the first audio valve. The Airzone cir- Using a proven circuit is also better
tor on the IF amplifier's screen grid.
cuit I was following used a 500pF than making up your own as you go.
Adding this vital component made
all the difference and the receiver burst mica bypass capacitor on the plate.
Converting a battery receiver to AC
This needed to be increased and a operation can be just as involved as
into life.
But although the conversion was value of 3300pF really smoothed out building a receiver from scratch. Unactually working, there were problems the harshness.
less you are prepared for that, then
When converting a battery set to . leave your battery set as you found it
with harshness and distortion. Incorrect component values were mostly AC operation, one must expect to en- and enjoy it for what it is.
SC
NOVEMBER
1992
61
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