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Stereo preamplifier
with IR remote control
Despite its circuit complexity, the Studio
Remote Control Preamplifier is easy to build.
This month, we conclude with the
full construction details.
PART 3: By JOHN CLARKE
The Studio Remote Control Preamplifier is housed in a 1-unit high black
rack-mounting case. This is fitted with
a screen-printed front panel which incorporates a smoke-coloured (neutral)
Perspex window for the LED displays.
A plastic film mask is fitted over the
LED displays so that only the segments
that have been lit are visible through
the Perspex window.
Inside the case, most of the parts
are accommodated on two PC boards:
a main board coded 01308931 (350 x
230mm) and a display board coded
01308932 (243 x 25mm).
The handheld transmitter is housed
56 Silicon Chip
in a small plastic case which has
a front panel label measuring 73 x
63mm. It uses two PC boards, one for
the electronic circuitry and the other
to provide the necessary contacts for
the switch membrane. This switch
membrane is acted upon by 15 plastic-chrome buttons which pro
trude
through the front panel.
Before starting construction, check
all three PC boards for breaks in the
copper tracks or shorts between tracks.
Any defects should be repaired immediately. Check that all holes have been
correctly drilled also.
Begin assembly of the main PC
board (01308931) by installing all the
PC stakes (at external wiring points),
wire links and resistors – see Fig.7.
Keep all the wire links straight to
avoid shorts to neighbouring components. The 27Ω 5W resistor should be
mounted about 1mm above the board
to allow the air to circulate beneath it
for cooling.
The ICs can be installed next,
taking care to ensure that they are
all correctly oriented. In particular,
note that IC17-21, IC23 and IC15 are
oriented differently to the remaining
ICs, so check these carefully. We do
not recommend using sockets for any
of the ICs except for IC14 (the microprocessor IC), as this could prejudice
the audio performance.
Once the ICs are in (do not plug IC14
in yet), install the diodes, regulators
and capacitors, again taking care to ensure that all polarised components are
correctly oriented. Note that the two
4700µF capacitors must be mounted
on their sides as shown on Fig.7, so
crystal. Do not mount LEDs 10-18 at
this stage – that step comes later.
Finally, tack solder the six 6mm
standoffs to their mounting points on
the underside of the PC board. This is
best done by first bolting the standoffs
to the board, so that they are held in
the correct positions.
Display board
that they don’t foul the lid.
Exercise caution when mounting
the three 3-terminal regula
tors, to
make sure you don’t get them mixed
up. Each regulator is fitted with a
heatsink and fastened to the PC board
with a screw and nut. Use the largest
heatsink for REG1 and smear all mating surfaces with heatsink compound
before bolting each assembly to the
board.
The relay, bass and treble pots, tone
switch and headphone socket can now
be mounted, followed by the 500kHz
ceramic resonator and the 3.58MHz
Below: a plastic film mask is fitted
over the LED displays so that only the
display segments are visible through
the Perspex window. The photodiode
sits behind a window in the mask
to prevent reflections from the LED
displays.
Fig.8 shows the assembly details for
the display board (01308932). Begin by
installing the wire link, then install the
PC stakes from the copper side of the
PC board at the 1, 2 and 3 locations.
This done, install the three 7-segment
LED displays and the pushbutton
switches. Be sure to orient each switch
with the flat side of its body facing to
the left and take care with the orien
tation of the LED displays (ie, bevel
towards top left).
The infrared photodiode (IRD1) is
mounted with its leads at full length
and bent at right angles so that its
front face sits vertically – see photo.
LEDs 1-9 should only be inserted
and not soldered at this stage, so that
their height can be adjusted later.
Be careful with their orientation, as
LEDs 4-6 are different to the others.
You can easily identify their leads
because the anode lead is always the
longer of the two.
Mating the boards
The main board is butted to the
back of the display board at right
angles and the two soldered together
via matching connector tracks. Before
doing this however, push LEDs 10-18
through their holes in the display
board, then bend their leads downwards about 3mm away from the LED
bodies, ready for insertion into the
main board.
Now offer the front panel to the
main board and insert the LED leads
into their respective holes. This done,
arrange the main board so that its
underside is 1mm above the bottom
edge of the display board, then lightly tack solder the boards together at
a couple of mounting points. Check
that the two boards are at right angles
before soldering the remaining tracks
together.
Finally, LEDs 10-18 can be soldered
to the main board. Position them so
that they sit flush against the display
board before soldering their leads, and
align them in a straight line to make a
good bar display.
Transmitter assembly
Fig.9 shows the wiring details for
the two transmitter boards.
Before installing any of the parts,
check that the two boards fit inside
the case. In particular, the 01308933
board should be fitted to the base to
check that the clips hold the board
correctly and that the plastic alignment pin passes through the hole in
the centre of the board. If the board is
too wide for the clips, carefully file it
down to size.
Once the board fits correctly inside
the case, snip the top off the alignment
CAPACITOR CODES
❏
❏
❏
❏
❏
❏
❏
❏
❏
❏
❏
❏
❏
Value
IEC Code EIA Code
0.22µF 220n 204
0.15µF 150n 154
0.1µF 100n 104
.068µF 68n 683
.015µF 15n 153
.01µF 10n 103
.0047µF 4n7 472
330pF n330 331
100pF n100 101
39pF 39p 39
22pF 22p 22
10pF 10p 10
November 1993 57
10k
1
BASS
22k
22k
1
1k
100W
10pF
100W
1
10uF
1
IC14
MC68HC705C8P
IC2
4051
47k
47k
REG3
7915
330
330
330
330
330
330
330
330
1
IC20
4511
4.7M
IC102
4051
47k
330
330
330
330
330
330
330
REG2
7815
1
10uF 10uF
0.1
X1
D3
10uF
47k
47k
330
100W
10uF
10uF
39pF
47k
47k
0.1
330
1
ZD2
47k
47k
330
330
330k
1k
1
1
330
39pF
10uF
D13
D14
10k
1uF
D12
10k
D11
330
330
330
330
330
330
330
1
IC19
4511
100
0.1
330
1
0.1
100
IC108
5534
10pF
10pF
IC15
AD7112CN
ZD1
IC104
5534
IC8
5534
1 0.1
330
0.1
100pF
1
1k
47k
100pF
330
IC17
ULN2003
0.1
K
A
K
A
K
A
K
A
K
A
K
A
K
A
K
A
K
A
330
IC21
4511
4.7k
330k
330k
1
LED10-18
1
10pF
10pF
1
IC18
ULN2003
1
IC6
5534
0.1
IC116
OP27
1
0.1
1k
1
0.1
IC16
OP27
0.1
IC4
5534
S5
IC106
5534
100
10pF
100k
IC3
4053
4.7k
1k
470uF
.01
1
D15
10k
330W
4700uF
0.1
4700uF
1
D9
27
5W
0.15
10uF
330
58 Silicon Chip
D5-D8
15V 15V CT
0.22
1
0.1
IC23
MV601
IC9
ULN2003
4.7k
0.1
1
100k
REG1
7805
10k
10k
10k
10k
10k
10k
10uF
330
0.1
IC11
4051
IC12
4013
10uF
10uF
.0047
1
1
D16
22uF
120
10k
D4
.01
10uF
120
10uF
IC10
4042
IC13
4011
330
10k
10k
100k
100pF
X2
100pF
47
47uF 6.8uF
1
1
3
IC22
SL486
2
.015
Fig.7: parts layout for the main PC board. Make sure that all polarised parts are correctly oriented & note that a
socket is used for IC14. We recommend replacing IC6 & IC106 with an OP27GP or LM627 and removing the 10pF capacitors between pins 5 & 8.
22k
.01
330pF
0.1
10pF
.01
R OUT
GND
GND
IC107
5534
10k
W
100W
22k
22k
22k
1.5k
330pF
10pF
1k
10uF
10pF
GND
VCR R
GND
CD R
GND
TUNER R
GND
AUX1 R
GND
AUX2 R
4.7k
1k
1.5k
Q1
10k
10pF
GND
VCR L
GND
CD L
GND
TUNER L
GND
AUX1 L
GND
AUX2 L
Q101
1k
TREBLE
4.7k
10k
33
4.7k
4.7k
330k
47k
100
47k
100
GND
OUT R
22pF
D101
47k
100uF
BP
100
100
TAPE
4x.0047
33
IC105
5534
100k
IC101
5534
16k
.068
.0047
100
0.1
33
33
22pF D1
PHONES
Q102
1
Q2
1
1
390
1M
1M
GND
IN L
TAPE GND
IN R
GND
OUT L
D2
100pF
.015
200k
100uF
BP
D102
IC5
5534
L101
10pF
10pF
47uF
BP
150
0.1
10k
IC7
5534
GND
PHONO L
100k
390
10k
10pF
47k
10k
16k
200k
100uF
BP
100
6.8uF
BP
0.1
100uF
BP
6.8uF
BP
RELAY
10k
1
0.1
.015
D10
10k
100
100pF
100k
10pF
100k
PHONO R
IC1
5534
L1
.068
.0047
GND
10k
L OUT
47uF
BP
150
LED1
LED4
LED7
K
A
A
K
K
A
LED2
K
A
LED5
A
K
LED8
K
A
K
A
LED3
A
K
LED6
K
2
S4
A
S2
1
3
A
S3
A K
IRD1
DISP1
DISP2
LEDS10-18
K
DISP3
LED9
Fig.8: parts layout for the display PC board. The infrared photodiode (IRD1) is mounted with its leads at
full length & bent at right angles so that its front face sits vertically – see photo.
pin with a pair of sidecutters so that
it is flush with the top of the board.
This will allow the IC to sit over the
alignment pin.
The switch matrix board (code
01308934) can now be tested in the lid
of the case. It mounts with the copper
side towards the keys and is oriented
so that the wire entry points are to
wards the front (see photo). Check that
the PC board fits between the integral
guides and is located correctly by the
four alignment pins. File down the
sides of the board if it does not fit
comfortably.
When everything is correct, begin
the assembly of the components board
by installing the IC, the links and
resistors. This done, install the two
100pF ceramic capacitors, the 0.1µF
capacitor, the 500kHz resonator and
the battery clip leads. The 220µF capacitor must be mounted on its side,
so that it will fit into the case.
Transistor Q1 is mounted with its
leads bent at right angles and is bolted
to the PC board using a screw and nut.
The two LEDs are mounted without
shortening their leads so that they can
be bent to sit on the plastic cup rests
at the front of the case.
Assembly of the switch matrix
board (code 01308934) simply involves installing the seven wire links.
Once these are in, connect the 8-way
100mm-long rainbow cable to positions 1-8 and the 3-way 100mm-long
rainbow cable to positions 9-11. The
other ends of the rainbow cables are
connected to matching positions on
the components board.
The next step is to attach the front
panel label to the case lid. This done,
cut out the rectangular switch holes
with a sharp knife and clean up the
edges with a small file. The 15 chrome
buttons are now installed from inside
the lid and the membrane placed in
position over these buttons.
The contact pads on the switch
matrix board should be cleaned before
it is installed in the case. Use some
steel wool (not the soap pads) for this
This close-up view shows how the infrared photodiode is mounted. Make sure
that the bevelled edge of the photodiode is at upper right.
The metal cases of the two tone control pots are earthed by connecting them
together as shown here & running a lead back to the EXT EARTH socket on the
rear panel.
job. Polish each copper switch pad
area, then apply a smear of heatsink
compound over the polished areas.
This step will prevent the copper from
tarnishing, which in turn would lead
to intermittent operation of the remote control. Note that this treatment
should also be applied to tin-plated
boards.
Now for the final assembly. Attach
the switch matrix board to the case
lid with six small self-tapping screws,
then clip the components board into
the bottom half of the case and bend
the LED leads so that the LEDs sit on
the plastic cup rests. Finally, feed
the battery clip leads through to the
battery compartment, then clip the
case together and secure it with the
self-tapping screw supplied.
Chassis assembly
Work can now begin on the preamplifier chassis. Assuming that all the
chassis holes have been pre-drilled,
you can secure the side and rear panels to the baseplate but leave the front
panel off at this stage. The four rubber
November 1993 59
LED2
LED1
TO BATTERY
A
K
A
11 10 9
K
220uF
Q1
2. 2
8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
100pF
10
100pF
9 10 11
10k
IC1
MV500
X1
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
0.1
Fig.9: this is the parts layout for the transmitter PC board & its companion
switch matrix board. The two are linked together via 8-way & 3-way lengths
of rainbow cable. Note that the two infrared LEDs (LED1 & LED2) are installed
with their leads at full length.
feet should be attached to the underside of the baseplate at this stage, to
prevent scratches both to the chassis
and to the bench top.
The 18 RCA sockets on the rear panel must be insulated from the chassis,
either by using insulated sockets or
by using non-insulated sockets which
mount on an insulated subpanel. The
earth terminal associated with these
sockets (EXT EARTH) must also be iso-
lated from the chassis.
Once these parts have been mount
ed, install the fuseholder, mains
cord and cord grip grommet on the
rear panel, then mount the power
transformer, earth solder lugs, mains
terminal block and power switch.
Note that it will be necessary to scrape
away the paint (or anodising) from the
area surrounding the mounting hole
for the earth lugs, in order to ensure
a good chassis contact. Use a screw,
nut and star washer to secure the earth
solder lugs, then use a multimeter to
confirm that they are indeed connected to chassis (the meter should read
zero ohms).
Check also that the rear and side
panels are electrically connected to
earth by measuring the resistance between the chassis earth terminal and
each panel. If the panels are insulated
from the baseplate, you may have to
remove some of the anodising from
around their mounting holes.
The next step is to fit the film mask
to the LED displays using double-sided tape. Arrange the mask so that only
the LED displays are visible through
the windows and position IRD1 so
that it is centred behind its allocated
window – see photo. When this has
been done, fit the front panel to the
chassis and push the PC board assembly towards it, so that the various
switches and the two tone control
pots protrude through their respective holes.
Assuming everything fits, the PC
board can now be secured in position
using machine screws and nuts. In
some cases, however, it may be necessary to either file or shim the board
standoffs so that all the components
pass through their front panel holes
without fouling.
RESISTOR COLOUR CODES
❏
No.
❏ 1
❏ 2
❏ 4
❏ 2
❏ 7
❏
14
❏ 6
❏ 2
❏
23
❏ 7
❏ 2
❏ 8
❏
35
❏ 2
❏ 2
❏
10
❏ 1
❏ 4
❏ 1
❏ 1
60 Silicon Chip
Value
4.7MΩ
1MΩ
330kΩ
200kΩ
100kΩ
47kΩ
22kΩ
16kΩ
10kΩ
4.7kΩ
1.5kΩ
1kΩ
330Ω
150Ω
120Ω
100Ω
47Ω
33Ω
10Ω
2.2Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
yellow violet green brown
brown black green brown
orange orange yellow brown
red black yellow brown
brown black yellow brown
yellow violet orange brown
red red orange brown
brown blue orange brown
brown black orange brown
yellow violet red brown
brown green red brown
brown black red brown
orange orange brown brown
brown green brown brown
brown red brown brown
brown black brown brown
yellow violet black brown
orange orange black brown
brown black black brown
red red gold brown
5-Band Code (1%)
yellow violet black yellow brown
brown black black yellow brown
orange orange black orange brown
red black black orange brown
brown black black orange brown
yellow violet black red brown
red red black red brown
brown blue black red brown
brown black black red brown
yellow violet black brown brown
brown green black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
orange orange black black brown
brown green black black brown
brown red black black brown
brown black black black brown
yellow violet black gold brown
orange orange black gold brown
brown black black gold brown
red red black silver brown
These photos show how the rubber membrane fits in
position over the switch buttons in the transmitter
case. The copper contact areas on the switch matrix
board are smeared with heatsink compound to
prevent corrosion & ensure reliable operation.
Once the board is finally secured,
LEDs 1-9 can be pushed into the front
panel holes and their leads soldered
and trimmed. The bass and treble
control knobs can also be fitted.
Chassis wiring
All that remains now is to complete
the chassis wiring – see Fig.10. By
far the most tedious part of the job
involves the wiring between the RCA
input sockets and the main PC board.
This wiring must all be run using
shielded cable, to prevent hum pickup and minimise crosstalk between
channels.
Note that the metal cases of the bass
and treble control pots are earthed by
running a lead back to the EXT EARTH
terminal on the rear panel. This measure prevents the preamplifier from
picking up hum whenever the tone
controls are touched. It will be necessary to scrape away the anodising
from the bodies of the pots in order
to make good solder joints.
Be sure to use 250VAC-rated cable
for the wiring to the mains switch,
fuseholder and the transformer primary. The Active (brown) and Neutral (blue) leads from the mains cord
are connected to the terminal block,
while the green/yellow earth wire is
soldered directly to one of the earth
solder lugs.
Insulated sleeving such as heat
shrink tubing should be used to cover
the bare terminals of the fuseholder
and the mains switch, to prevent accidental contact. Note that a 0.0047µF
capacitor is soldered directly across
the mains switch and this should also
be covered in heatshrink tubing.
The wiring can now be completed
by connecting the secondary terminals
of the transformer to the PC board.
This done, use cable ties to secure
the internal wiring at various points.
This is particularly important for the
mains wiring, since it prevents any
leads from coming adrift and shorting
to the chassis.
Testing
Before applying power to the circuit,
check your wiring carefully and re-
check the PC board against the overlay
diagram. Now apply power and check
the supply rails at the output of each
regulator. You should get +5V from
REG1, +15V from REG2 and -15V from
REG3. In addition, check that there is
about 7.5V across each of the zener
diodes (ZD1 & ZD2).
If you don’t get the correct readings,
switch off and correct the problem
before switching on again.
Assuming that everything is OK,
check that +5V is present at pins 1, 3,
37 & 40 of IC14’s socket. If this checks
out, switch off and install IC14, then
The switch matrix board is secured to the lid of the case using six small selftapping screws, while the components board clips into position. Arrange the
LEDs so that they sit in the small cups at the front of the case.
November 1993 61
17
1
16
PHONES
LEFT
RIGHT
PHONO
1
EXT
EARTH
TAPE
IN
TAPE
OUT
VCR
VR1
2
3
S5
5
4
3
AUX 1
AUX 2
6
9
8
11
10
13
12
5
6
8
15
14
17
DISP3
TUNER
7
10
12
16
14
DISP2
CD
LED10-18
4
7
DISP1
9
11
OUTPUT
13
1
15
2
3 IRD1
S3
S2
S4
LED7-9
1
2
3
2
LED4-6
FUSE
LED1-3
CORD CLAMP
GROMMET
A BRN
POWER
TRANSFORMER
N BLU
MAINS
TERM.
EARTH GRN/YEL
SOLDER
LUGS
62 Silicon Chip
.0047
240VAC
15V
15V
240V
S1
Fig.10: be sure to use mains-rated cable for all connections to the mains terminal block, fuseholder & power switch.
VR2
Use cable ties to secure the wiring at various locations, as shown in this
photograph. Either insulated RCA sockets can be used or you can use noninsulated types mounted on an insulated sub-panel, as shown here.
apply power again. The Attenuation
display should now show a reading
of 48.0dB and the 0-9dB balance LEDs
should all be lit. The CD LED should
also be lit.
Now press the Mute switch on the
preamplifier and check that all the
balance LEDs except the 0dB LED
extinguish. If this works, pressing the
Up and Down switches should now
alter the Attenuation display in 1.5dB
steps. Note that pressing the Up switch
will decrease the attenuation reading,
while the pressing the Down switch
will increase the attenuation reading.
The remote control handpiece can
now be tested for correct operation.
Check that the ACK (acknowledge)
LED on the receiver lights when
one of the remote control switches
is pressed and that the appropriate
LED lights when each of the Source
switches (Phono, CD, Tuner, VCR,
Aux1 & Aux2) is pressed. Finally,
Below: the rear panel carries nine
pairs of RCA sockets for the input &
output connections, an earth terminal
& the fuseholder.
check that the Up, Down and Mute
switches operate the displays correct
ly. Note that the balance adjustment is
only available when the preamplifier
is unmuted.
Note also that the balance display
can show two LEDs lit at the same
time. For balance settings of 0dB, 3dB,
6dB, 9dB and infinity, only one LED
is lit but for in-between settings, two
LEDs will be lit. For example, both the
0dB and 3dB LEDs will be lit for the
1.5dB setting.
The Tape Monitor, Source, Mono
and Stereo selection re
quires some
explanation. Initially, when power is
applied, the selection is Source Stereo.
You can then select Source Mono by
pressing the lefthand Source switch
and Source Stereo again by pressing
the righthand Source Switch.
The Tape Monitor selection can be
either “Tape Mon Mono” (by pressing
the lefthand Tape Mon switch) or
“Tape Mon Stereo” (by pressing the
righthand Tape Mon switch).
Connecting it up
plifier connects between the signal
sources (Phono, CD, Tuner, VCR,
Aux1, Aux2 & Tape) and the power
amplifier. In fact, it’s no different from
any other stereo preamplifier in this
respect.
When all the connections have been
made, switch on and check that you
can listen to each source. Check that
the volume, balance and tone controls
function correctly and that plugging
in a set of headphones switches out
the loudspeakers. The sound from the
headphones should be clean and there
should be virtually no background
noise.
Finally, check that there are no loud
clicks and plops from the loudspeakers
when the power to the preamplifier is
switched on and off. A faint clicking
sound as the volume level is changed
SC
is normal.
Where To Buy Kits
Readers are advised that kits for
this project are not expected to
be available until late November
1993 at the earliest. Kits will be
available from Altronics, Dick
Smith Electronics and Jaycar.
The Studio Remote Control Pream-
November 1993 63
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