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VINTAGE RADIO
By JOHN HILL
Those never-ending repair problems
This month, I have a couple of special repairs to
discuss; you know the type – those nasty, hardto-find problems that nearly drive you crazy
trying to locate them.
The first one was for a collector
friend who had a 1938 dual-wave
console type receiver with no maker’s
name on it. It was a well-made set
with a big 12-inch electrodynamic
loudspeaker and a magic-eye tuning
indicator. It worked fairly well too
–but only on shortwave. My job was
to replace all of the original paper
capacitors and get the broadcast band
working again.
At first glance, it seemed an easy
job – probably a dirty wave-change
switch. Usually, the problem is reversed; the broadcast band works but
the shortwave band doesn’t. As the
wave-change switch may not have
been used for the last 20-30 years, it
is not surprising that the contacts become dirty and no longer make reliable
connections.
On the other hand, I was a little
apprehensive about some aspects of
the job because someone had recently worked on the set. The original
electrolytics had been replaced with
modern 450V units and the dial light
wiring had been altered. There is nothing worse than trying to troubleshoot
someone else’s mistakes.
The usual solution to dirty switch
contacts is to give them a good squirt
Access to the far side of the wave-change switch in the old console receiver was
not easy. The troublesome switch contacts were bypassed by using an unused
section of the switch.
94 Silicon Chip
with contact cleaner while rotating the
switch back and forth. This treatment
usually brings the dead band back to
life again and all is well. But in this
instance, no amount of contact cleaner
made any difference.
Naturally, the next step was to check
a few other components, namely the
broadcast band aerial and oscillator
coils. These checked out OK, so that
turned my attention back to the wavechange switch again.
Prodding and probing at each individual contact revealed that the
broadcast band would work when
pressure was brought to bear on
certain switch contacts. As Murphy
would have it, these contacts were on
the most awkward side of the switch
to work on.
Unused contacts
Fortunately there were two other
unused sets of contacts on the switch.
They were originally used to switch
the dial lights so that different sections
of the dial would light up depending
on the position of the wave-change
switch. This dial wiring had been disconnected at some time in the past and
rewired to a common circuit that lit all
the lamps, regardless of the position
of the wave-change switch.
Nothing is ever as simple as it first
appears. After disconnecting the leads
from the faulty section of the switch,
I soon discovered that they were too
short to reach the alternative contacts.
All three wires had to be extended by
joining on extra lengths. Success at
last! On completion of the change over,
the receiver worked on the broadcast
band – but not for long. After three or
four switch operations, the broadcast
band went dead once again.
At this stage, I decided to check each
set of contacts on the wave-change
switch with a multimeter. This showed
The troublesome padder capacitor (right) compared to a similar undamaged
unit. A small nut & bolt proved to be an adequate replacement for the broken
rivet. The author had not encountered this sort of problem before & it took quite
some time to locate.
that there were no faulty contacts
and each set cut cleanly in and out
of circuit. After double checking, the
wave-change switch was given a clean
bill of health.
By now, I was in a quandary. What
seemed a straightforward job at first
had developed into quite a puzzling
mystery. There had been a fault in
the switch but after fixing it another
problem had arisen somewhere else.
A puzzling intermittent
Then came the big breakthrough. I
dropped a pair of pliers on the workbench and the set burst into life. There
was a loose contact somewhere and it
did not take much of a jolt to trigger
it on or off.
The mysterious loose connection
was so sensitive it was hard to locate.
The slightest tap anywhere would
send static-like reverberations through
the speaker. Tapping the broadcast
band oscillator coil can seemed to have
the most effect so the can was removed
to see if there was something shorting
out inside. Nothing – all was in order
and by this stage everything had gone
quite dead.
A pair of long-nose pliers was then
used to wrench all the wiring joints
(insulated handles of course). This
seemed to indicate that the trouble
spot was in or around the padder.
The receiver had a typical 1930s
padder – one of those white porcelain
ones as fitted to so many old sets. But
how often does one find a defective
padder?
Well, this was one such time! The
tubular rivet that holds the moveable
plate to the body of the padder had
broken and had let the plate come
adrift. This wasn’t very noticeable
because the wire that was soldered to
the loose part was short and thick and
held everything in place fairly well.
The rivet head was also still in place
and everything looked normal.
However, after removing the padder
and replacing the broken rivet with a
small nut and bolt, my problems were
over. I have never encountered a faulty
padder before, so there is always a first
time for everything.
A dangerous repair
The next problem was one that
made me feel ill when I saw it. It was
the most dangerous and irresponsible
repair I had ever seen and who ever
did the job should be lined up in front
of a firing squad and shot!
The repair involved a power transformer change-over where a considerably different unit to the original
was used as a substitute. While the
transformer’s voltages were OK, the
mounting method used was dreadful.
All the transformer connections were
above chassis, completely unprotected
Oh what a feeling! – if
you happened to touch
those transformer
connections. The near
side row of connections
are for the 240V
primary winding. It’s a
very makeshift repair
that has been done
without thought or
consideration for the
well being of others.
October 1993 95
would do a job that has the potential
to kill.
IF transformers
This intermediate frequency (IF) transformer has been repaired by bridging
a corroded lead-out wire. Similar problems are also often found in the aerial
& oscillator coils of old radios & are enough to stop a set dead. A satisfactory
repair can usually be carried out on such coils, although it can be a fairly
tedious job.
On another tack, I have recently had
a run on faulty IF transformers and, in
every case, it was easier and possibly
quicker to repair the transformer, rather than scrounge around looking for a
suitable replacement.
In the case of the unit in the accompanying photograph, corrosion in
one of the leads rendered the bottom
winding open circuit. It is often possible to bridge the break with a piece of
copper wire and the unit will function
once again.
If repairing a transformer that uses
Litz wire, a thick piece of joining wire
would be better than a thin piece. If
it is an earlier type of transformer
using single strand copper wire, then
it doesn’t matter much what gauge of
wire is used.
These fiddly repair jobs are often
in the microsurgery class and a small
soldering iron tip and a low-powered
magnifying glass are handy tools
to have. Good light comes into the
equation too!
A repair of this nature will frequently solve an IF transformer problem.
It is always advisable to disconnect
the transformer and remove it from
the chassis before doing any further
work. Attempting the repair while the
transformer is on the chassis is usually
quite difficult.
It should also be mentioned that
exactly the same problem is often
found in aerial and oscillator coils
and they usually respond to similar
treatment.
Loudspeaker repairs
A 5-valve Radiola receiver from the early post-war era. A common problem
with this model is a “rattly” loudspeaker, caused by the cone detaching itself
from the frame. Fortunately, this problem is usually repairable & a replacement
loudspeaker is not necessary.
and within easy reach of an unsuspecting victim.
As shown in the photograph, the
nearest row of connections are for the
240V primary winding. What a lethal
booby trap!
Any repairer who had even the
slightest regard for his customers
would have mounted the transformer
properly. The guy who did this job
96 Silicon Chip
simply couldn’t be bothered to cut the
necessary rectangular shaped hole in
the chassis so as to accommodate the
replacement transformer in the correct
manner.
As radio repairers – vintage or otherwise – it is our responsibility not to
make repairs in such a manner that
they are a danger to others. Whether a
qualified person or not, only a half-wit
My final tip involves repairing those
“rattly” loudspeakers that are so common in early post-war AWA Radiolas.
The problem is caused by the speaker
cone detaching itself from the frame,
allowing it to buzz, rattle and produce
distorted sounds.
The speakers at fault include both
electrodynamic and permag (permanent magnet) types covering from
about 1946 through to the late 1950s.
The first step in the repair process
involves removing the speaker from
the set. This amounts to a little more
work than one might initially expect,
because the whole front of the receiver
has to be removed and that includes
the dial and grille cloth.
VINTAGE
RADIO
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These intermediate frequency (IF) transformers are from mid-1930s radio
receivers. It is often easier & quicker to repair these items than look for
replacements. A visual check with a magnifying glass will soon locate a
corroded section of lead-out wire.
WANTED: Valves, Radios, etc.
Purchased for CASH
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RADIO
Call in to our NEW showroom at:
242 Chapel Street (PO Box 2029),
Prahran, Vic 3181.
Phone: (03) 5104486; Fax (03) 529 5639
D & K WILSON ELECTRONICS
An old loudspeaker can often be salvaged simply by gluing its cone back into
position using a suitable adhesive & a handful of clothes pegs. Detached cones
are a common problem in post-war Radiola mantle radios.
Once the speaker is out, the problem
is obvious and in bad cases the cone is
free of the frame all the way around.
The remedy is simple – glue the cone
back where it belongs. Use a rubbery
type of contact cement (eg, Selleys
Kwikgrip®) and hold the cone in place
with clothes pegs until the glue has
set – see photo.
Often a bit of manoeuvring is required to position the cone centrally
and a spot must be found where the
cone moves freely without the voice
coil fouling on the magnet.
While the speaker is on the workbench, it is a great oppor
tunity to
clean the dial glass (be careful not
to remove the markings) and, if necessary, fit a new dial cord and grille
cloth. If the grille cloth is fitted to the
cabinet instead of to the cardboard
speaker mounting baffle, it gives easy
access to the speaker if it needs to be
removed or replaced at some time in
the future.
That’s it for Vintage Radio this time.
I hope you will join me again next
SC
month.
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October 1993 97
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