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Items relevant to "Two Simple Servo Driver Circuits":
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REMOTE CONTROL
BY BOB YOUNG
How to service servos & winches, Pt.2
Some servos must be regarded as throwaway
items not able to be serviced but even defunct
servos can be cannibalised to keep others going.
This month, we continue with this topic &
include an interesting if unusual description on
how these circuits work.
The development of the modern
integrated circuit servo goes back a
long way. To my knowledge, Orbit
Electronics in America commissioned
the first IC amplifier in about 1969.
I remember bringing back a bag full
of them from the World Aerobatic
Championships in 1971. They were
a stunning innovation at the time,
replacing an 11-transistor discrete
amplifier which chewed up lots of
space in the servo.
As a result of this chip, Orbit introduced the PS-4 servo which rocked
the R/C world at the time. We had
never dreamed of servos so small.
These days they still look small but
the new miniature servos are an or-
Fig.1: up until a few years ago, the Signetics NE544 was used in many
servos but it is no longer available.
88 Silicon Chip
der of magnitude down in size again
and make them look very ordinary.
However, in 1970 they were simply
amazing.
By modern standards the Orbit
amplifier was not very good and it
was prone to several shortcomings no
longer encountered in the modern IC
servo. They tended to dither around
neutral due to the dead band being
too small. This tended to raise servo
current and made the neutralising a
little less precise than it should have
been. They also exhibited temperature drift which we ultimately cured
with the addition of a diode in the
feedback path. They were also inclined to non linearity, a very serious
fault in a servo.
New ICs followed in quick succession as other manufacturers scrambled
onto the bandwagon in order to maintain their position in the R/C marketplace. Each learned from the preceding
and gradually the flaws disappeared.
With the arrival of the NE544 IC
(Fig.1), servo design came of age but
not however without a struggle! The
first two NE544 masks were duds. The
“B” mask in particular was prone to
latch up on the output bridge. This
resulted in a short circuit through the
bridge and the heat generated usually
blew the top off the IC.
With the arrival of the “C” mask, all
difficulties and defects were overcome
and I had a long and happy association
with this amplifier. Linear, accurate
and reliable, it was all we could ask
for in a servo amplifier.
Then they went and discontinued
it. Why do manufacturers do these
things? This is particularly upsetting
when they offer no direct replacement
and people with equipment designed
around these devices are left stranded
with no alternative.
The Japanese in the meantime were
pressing on with their own development and Futaba came up with a twochip solution, as shown in Fig.2. The
logic was in one chip and the bridge
in another. These were also prone to
blowing out the side of the chip. (They
were vertical mount).
Manufacturers do tend to skimp on
epoxy at times. They seem to forget
that electronic devices are driven by
smoke under pressure and that if the
case ruptures and the smoke escapes,
then the device will no longer function. (Editor’s note: we are indebted
to Bob Young for this illuminating
explanation of the workings of electronic components. Designing circuits
will now be so much easier!)
Futaba finally came up with a new
single chip solution (with thicker
epoxy?) and went on to produce some
very popular and reliable servos.
These days surface mount components
have reduced the servo amplifier to
a mere shadow of the old massive
shoulder-to-shoulder discrete servo
amplifiers. A couple of SM resistors
and capacitors and a teensy IC, and
that is it. Not like the good old days
at all.
From a servicing point of view,
there have been some nasty techniques
introduced by modern assembly methods which make servicing very tedious. Mounting the servo motor directly
on the PCB is probably the nastiest.
This means complete stripping of the
servo to get inside to the amplifier. The
completely sealed pot which has now
become a throwaway item is another
although the scales seem to have been
balanced by the improved reliability
of these pots.
All in all, there is little that can be
serviced in the modern servo and one
must be careful not to be drawn into
servicing something that is really a
throwaway item. All you can do with
cheap servos is to cannibalise them
for parts.
Fig.2: Futaba’s first integrated circuit servo
used two ICs, one for the logic & the other
for the motor drive bridge.
the servo for crash damage, etc (see
last issue) and then plug the opened
servo into the analyser. Servo neutral
and travel length are checked against
the manufacturer’s specs and a note
taken of the servo motor current con
sumption. Modern servo standards
usually call for 1-2ms at extremes with
a 1.5ms neutral. The old Futaba was
0.65-1.90ms and I have seen examples
of sets swinging around 1.2-2.5ms although this was rare. If in doubt, check
the manufacturer’s specifications – if
you can get them, that is.
with a lint free cloth and a smear of
Vaseline will help minimise wear on
the track. Check the wiper for tension
and cleanliness.
Servo motor current consumption is
a bit of a headache as motors of various
types draw widely differing current.
Your best bet is to note the current
on a new servo and use it as a guide.
What you are looking for is a marked
increase in motor current when the
motor is free running. Typically, a
new 11Ω permag motor will run free
(unloaded) at around 80-100mA. As
“All in all, there is little that can be serviced in
the modern servo and one must be careful not to
be drawn into servicing something that is really
a throwaway item. All you can do with cheap
servos is to cannibalise them for parts”.
Routine chores
That said, there are routine chores
which should be carried out regularly and there are some not so routine
techniques which may be helpful in
unusual circumstances.
At Silvertone, we use a servo analyser which consists of a pulse generator with variable rate auto-sweep, a
pulse width meter with LED display
and a current meter. We begin the
service with a visual inspection of
The servo is then checked for
smoothness over the entire arc of
travel. This will pick up any flaws in
the potentiometer track. If the servo
jumps or dithers around one spot
this usually indicates a hole in the
track or a dirty pot element. The pot
is replaced or cleaned as appropriate
and re-neutralised. Where it can be
done, pots are cleaned routinely as
part of a general service. Clean them
they age, the current will creep up,
sometimes to as high as 300mA. The
causes are many and varied and include dry sintered bronze bearings,
dirty commutator, bent shaft, broken
brushes and sometimes pinions which
have been pushed against the bearings.
Lubrication
Some motors can be stripped down
for inspection and repair or cleaning,
May 1994 89
REMOTE CONTROL – Servicing the servos
and some cannot. A simple way to
brighten up a tired motor is to start
the motor running and spray CRC-226
onto the bearings (front and rear). This
will soak into the bronze bushes and
some will work its way into the commutator, cleaning it as well.
Be sure to run the motor in both
directions for about five minutes. I
have seen motors respond well to this
treatment, with current consumption
falling from around 170mA to 100mA.
In a model with four servos, this
amounts to a significant reduction in
battery load.
Motor problems
Motor problems are still a worry
due to engine vibration pounding
away at delicate brushes. One rule to
remember in this regard is to never
connect the case of the servo motor
directly to ground. If the armature
insulation breaks down then you
have a dead short from motor drive
positive to ground. Scratch one servo
amplifier. The servo amplifier IC case
will rupture immediately, fill the
model with escaping smoke, blind
whilst monitoring the detector output
with an oscilloscope. Noisy servos
will show up as noise bursts in the
sync pause or even obliterated control pulses. If you lack a scope, then
remove the Tx antenna and do a range
check. With the model at the extreme
of controllable range, move each servo
in turn. A noisy servo will kill the
signal and control will be lost, whereas
good servos will function normally.
Once you are satisfied that all is
well electronically, reassemble the
servo and check for smooth operation
and that the servo neutral and current
draw have not changed. Sometimes
tightening the screws in the servo case
can distort the case or load the gears,
causing increased current drain.
Finally, before we close on the servo,
servicemen are often asked routine
questions or required to perform
non-standard modifications on servos
for special projects. Here are a few
hints on these problems.
Reversing servos
One common inquiry is how do you
reverse a servo. Virtually all transmit-
potentiometer element.
Do not touch the wiper wire. The
tricky bit comes about because the
wiper usually does not sit in the centre
of the pot element. Therefore, after
reversing, the wiper must be reset so
that the angle/resistance (whichever
is easier for you to measure) is the
same between the wiper and whichever of the two leads you used as a
reference. Once the wiring has been
swapped, reset the wiper so that the
angle/resistance between the wiper
and the reference end or colour is the
same as the original. If you get this
wrong, the servo will jam at one end
of the track, possibly damaging the
gears, amplifier or the motor. Plug the
servo in and switch the Tx and Rx on.
The servo should take up a position
roughly around neutral and work in
the reverse rotation. Reset neutral and
seal up the servo.
Stay alert during this procedure
and take the phone off the hook. If
you get interrupted, all hell can break
loose. I have seen people come into
my workshop with servos in pieces
and unable to get normal operation
in either direction. Usually they have
reversed one pair of wires and not the
other, forgotten to reset the wiper angle
or moved the wiper wire by accident.
Changing angle of rotation
“One rule to remember is to never connect
the case of the servo motor directly to ground.
If the armature insulation breaks down then you
have a dead short from motor drive positive to
ground”.
the pilot and almost certainly result
in a crash.
Checking for interference
Finally, one last note on servo
motors. One common cause of radio
interference is servo noise getting into
the receiver. This can be caused by a
dirty commutator but is more usually
caused by broken noise suppression
capacitors on the servo motor. These
sometimes get broken in a crash and
can cause problems to the less experienced or alert serviceman.
The best way to check for this is to
reduce the Tx signal level to a minimum and run each servo separately
90 Silicon Chip
ters these days are fitted with servo
reversing switches and these are a
good thing too. There are, however,
many old transmitters still in use
without this feature and the request
still comes at regular intervals. The
change is tricky at times and some
care is called for.
Firstly, write down or draw the location of the original wiring before you
disturb it. Next, before you touch the
pot wiring, measure the angle/resistance between the wiper and one end
of the pot element – this becomes your
reference end or colour. Now reverse
the two commutator leads on the motor
and the two wires at the ends of the
Another common request is for
the angle of rotation of the servo to
be changed. Some applications call
for very small or very large angles of
rotation. The request for 180° of travel
for flaps, undercarriage, etc is still a
common one. Again, modern transmitters can sometimes accommodate this
or servos can be purchased with 180°
of rotation as standard. If, however,
you live on a desert island and need
to doctor an existing standard servo,
the procedure is as follows.
Most servo ICs have external components to set such parameters as travel
length, minimum impulse and pulse
stretching, so check the specifications
for this information. Small variations
of rotation angle can be achieved by
changing the value of the one-shot
timing resistor.
Large variations are best done by
placing a resistor in series with the
pot element. Done very carefully,
rotation angles of up to 250° can be
achieved. Do not forget to remove
the output gear over-travel stops in
SC
the gearbox.
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