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Dual diversity tuner for
FM microphones; Pt.2
Construction & alignment of the Dual Diversity
Tuner does not require any special equipment
or tools apart from an alignment tool & a tuning
wand which can be easily made. There is little
wiring involved since most of the parts are
assembled onto PC boards.
By JOHN CLARKE
The prototype for the SILICON CHIP
Dual Diversity Tuner was built into a
1-unit high black anodised rack case
with screen printed front and rear
panels. Two PC boards are used to
accommodate the components: (1) a
main board coded 06307941 and meas
uring 207 x 161mm; and (2) a satellite
board coded 06307942 and measuring
28 x 49mm. The latter carries the
RF preamplifier components and is
shielded by a boxed section made from
15mm-high single-sided PC board. A
further strip of single-sided PC board
divides this box into two sections, to
provide additional shielding for the
RF preamplifier components.
Following assembly, the shielded
RF preamplifier module is mounted
66 Silicon Chip
directly on the main PC board.
Begin construction by comparing
your PC boards against the published
patterns to verify that all tracks are
intact and that there are no shorts
between tracks. Some holes may need
to be enlarged to accept the relevant
components; eg, the mounting holes
for L10, T1, T2, VC2 and for the PC
stakes. The hole used to secure the tab
of REG1 to the PC board may also need
to be enlarged to accept the mounting
screw.
Note that there are only four holes
in the RF preamplifier board. These
allow short lengths of tinned copper
wire to pass through from the track
(top) side of the board and through
the main board for both mounting and
earthing purposes. Unlike the main
PC board, all components in the RF
preamplifier are mounted on the track
side of the board.
Main board assembly
Fig.7 shows the overlay diagram for
the main PC board. Begin construction
by inserting PC stakes at all external
wiring points and at test points TP1 &
TP GND. This done, install all the low
profile components such as the links,
resistors and ICs. Table 2 shows the
resistor colour code but it’s also a good
idea to check them on your multimeter
as some of the colours can be difficult
to decipher.
Take care to ensure that the ICs are
all oriented correctly and that each is
mounted in the correct location. The
5W resistor is mounted about 1mm
proud of the PC board to allow the
air to circulate beneath it for cooling.
Mount the diodes next but again
be sure to use the correct type at each
location. Diodes D1-D4 are marked
with the BA482 type number and are
smaller than the 1N4148 diodes used
for D6-D8. D5, the BB119 varicap,
looks very similar to a 1N4148, so be
sure to check its type number carefully
6
1
5
4
2
BASE DIAGRAM
TOP VIEW
L1-L4
6T, 0.5mm DIA ENCU WIRE ON
PHILIPS 4313 020 40031 BALUN COR
3
5
before installing it on the board. Take
care with the orientation of each diode
and note particularly that D2 and D3
face in opposite directions.
The capacitors can now be installed. There are several different
types used on the PC board, so make
sure that you always use the correct
type at each location. Ceramic capacitors are mostly used in the FM
tuner section of the board, while
MKT and electrolytic capacitors are
used throughout the remainder of the
circuit. Table 1 lists the relevant capacitor codes and their corresponding
values. Make sure that the electrolytics are correctly oriented.
Note particularly that the 10µF
electrolytic and 0.1µF MKT capacitors near IC3 are installed with their
bodies flat against the PC board. You
will need to bend their leads through
90° to do this, however. The capacitors are mounted in this way so that
the leads to LEDs 1-3 in the bargraph
display can pass over the top of them
– see photo.
Similarly, the 4700µF capacitor near
REG1 is also installed lying down –see
Fig.6. Its body should be secured to
the PC board using silicone rubber
compound to prevent possible lead
damage due to vibration.
The 3-terminal regulator (REG1) is
mounted on a small heatsink. Smear
the mating surfaces with heatsink
compound before bolting the assembly
to PC board.
Coils
Fig.6 shows the coil winding details.
L1-L4 are wound onto a balun former
4
2
3
6
1
2
3
L10
F1,
S1
WINDING: PINS 6 AND 1,
S2
10.5T, 0.5mm DIA ENCU WIRE
T2
WINDINGS: PINS 1, 2 AND 3,
3T, BIFILAR 0.25mm DIA ENCU WIRE
PINS 5 AND 4, 4T, 0.5mm DIA
ENCU WIRE
COILS T1, T2 AND L10 WOUND ON NEOSID TYPE 'A' COIL ASSEMBLY
99-007-96 (BASE, FORMER, CAN AND F29 SLUG)
4
5
6
T1
WINDINGS: PINS 4 AND 6,
3.5T, 0.5mm DIA ENCU WIRE
PINS 3 AND 2, 2T, 0.5mm
ENCU WIRE
NOTE: WIND COILS IN SAME
SENSE AS ABOVE
L5
1.5T
L6
6.5T
1
F2
L7
8.5T
L5-L9 WOUND ON 4mm DIA MANDREL
USING 0.6mm DIA ENCU WIRE
L8
1.5T
L9
6.5T
Fig.6: this diagram shows the winding details for all the coils in the Diversity
Tuner. Be sure to use the wire diameter specified for each coil & make sure
that each winding is wound in the direction shown. A complete description on
winding each coil also appears in the text & this should be closely followed.
(six turns of 0.5mm-dia. ECW), while
L5-L9 are air cored and are made by
winding the appropriate number of
turns of 0.6mm ECW onto a 4mm
(5/32-inch) mandril. You can use a
drill bit for this.
Note that L5, L6 and L7 are wound
in a clockwise direction, while L8 and
L9 are wound anticlockwise. Wind
each turn close to the previous turn
as shown in the diagram.
T1, T2 and L10 are wound on the
Neosid coil formers. Begin by inserting
the coil formers into the bases, then
wind T1 using 0.5mm ECW exactly
as shown. Note that the two windings
are wound in opposite directions and
should be immediately adjacent to
each other. Make sure that you get the
winding phases (directions) correct,
otherwise the local oscillator won’t
work.
Note that the enamelled copper wire
is easily terminated on the base pins by
August 1994 67
S2
.01
D7
10k
.01
1
.01
47
0.1
0.1 0.1
.033
K
1.5k
220k
IC3
LM3914
GND
10uF
1
A
10k
10k
220k
10k
LED1 LED2 LED3 LED4 LED5 LED6 LED7 LED8 LED9 LED10
0.1
2.7k
1.2M
10k
10k
TP
GND
VR3
1
0.1
3.9K
10uF
2.7k
1
330k
IC5
LM393
0.1
VR2
82
5W
10k
2.7k
TP1
VR1
1uF
IC4
LM358
10
300
4.7k
56k
4.7k
1.5k
0.1
47k
220k
.001
0.33
27k
1
1
IC2
TDA1576
750
10k
D8
0.1
0.1
0.1
33pF
.0068
100k
33k
22k
IC6
LF353
100k
560pF
39k
IC11
4017
X1
X2
33pF
L10
100k
SHIELD
47k
10
47uF
1
T2
T1
D5
REG1
7812
0.1
3.3k
33pF
10
0.1
.01
15pF
10
390pF
1
.01
390pF
1.8pF
33pF
6.8pF
L9
IC1
TDA1574
220k
.01
10
.01
220k
VC2 6.8pF
L8
47uF
IC8
74C14
.001
33pF
10uF
.01
10
3.9pF
.01
1
.01
.001
SHIELD
L6
10
SHIELD
VC1
IC12
7555
L5
27pF
.001
4700
0.1
Q1
.001
1
.01
220k
390
L7
2.2k
22k
.01
IC7
4066
.001
SHIELD
D9-D12
.018
IC9
7555
.01
2.2k
12.6VAC
0.1
D4
.01
D6
L4
D1
SHIELD
10k
ANT B
L3
.01
L1
D3
10k
.01
L2
2.2k
.01
.01
IC10
4013
D2
.01
2.2k
ANT A
10
GND
10
GND
O/P
10uF
1
47pF
VR4
A K
A K
LED11
RED
LED12
GREEN
1
Fig.7: install the parts on the main PC board as shown in this wiring diagram.
The RF preamplifier board (top, left) is also mounted on the main board
& is enclosed in a shield made from single-sided blank PCB material (see
Fig.9). Note that the parts in the RF preamplifier are installed on the copper
side of the board, with connections to the main board made via feedthrough
capacitors & wire links.
68 Silicon Chip
Keep all component leads as short as possible when assembling the PC board,
particularly around the FM tuner stages at the top of the PC board. The 4700µF
electrolytic capacitor at bottom right should be secured to the board using
silicone rubber compound to prevent its leads from breaking.
heating the wire with your soldering
iron until the enamel melts and then
applying solder.
T2 must be wound with extreme
care. To wind this coil, first take the
250mm-length of 0.25mm ECW, cut it
in half and twist the two wires together
using a hand drill and a vyce until
there is about one twist per millimetre.
This done, solder one wire end (S1) to
pin 3 of the base and the adjacent end
(S2) to pin 2. Wind on three turns as
shown, then use your multimeter to
identify the other end of the wire connected to pin 3. Solder this end (F1) to
pin 2 and connect the remaining end
(F2) to pin 1.
The other winding between pins 4
& 5 uses four turns of 0.5mm ECW. It
must be wound in the opposite direction to the bifilar winding.
Note that Fig.6 shows a gap between
each turn for the bifilar winding but
this has only been done for the sake
of clarity. In practice, the turns should
all be close-wound (ie, immediately
adjacent to each other), while the top
winding should be immediately adjacent to the bifilar winding.
Coil L10 (the quadrature coil) consists of just a single winding. Wind it
in the direction shown and terminate
the top and bottom leads to pins 1 &
6 respectively.
Once wound, the coils can all be
installed on the PC board. Mount L8
& L9 so that they sit about 1mm above
the board surface.
T1, T2 and L10 can only be installed one way on the PC board since
their middle pins are offset, but make
sure that you don’t get them mixed
up. A metal can is then fitted over
each coil and is secured by soldering
its lugs to the earth pattern of the
board. Finally, the ferrite slugs can
be screwed into the formers using a
plastic alignment tool (available from
TABLE 1: CAPACITOR CODES
Value
0.33µF
0.1µF
.033µF
.018µF
.01µF
.0068µF
.001µF
560pF
390pF
47pF
33pF
27pF
15pF
6.8pF
3.9pF
1.8pF
IEC
330n
100n
33n
18n
10n
6n8
1n0
560p (n56)
390p (n39)
47p
33p
27p
15p
6p8
3p9
1p8
EIA
334
104
333
183
103
682
102
561
391
47
33
27
15
6.8
3.9
1.8
your electronic parts retailer). Do not
use a screwdriver for this job since
this will crack the ferrite.
August 1994 69
S1
NEUTRAL
(BLUE)
CORD GRIP
GROMMET
FRONT PANEL
SECONDARY
LED12
K
ANTENNA
'A'
PAL
SOCKET
LEDS1-10
50 COAX
A
ANTENNA
'B'
PAL
SOCKET
LED11
AUDIO
OUTPUT
RCA
SOCKET
12.6VAC
C
NO
S2
NC
REAR PANEL
VR4
COVER WIRING OF S1 AND F1
WITH INSULATING SLEEVING
BROWN
BLUE
POWER
TRANSFORMER
EARTH
LUG
EARTH
(GREEN/
YELLOW)
ACTIVE
(BROWN)
ACTIVE
(BROWN)
250mA
FUSE
PRIMARY
Fig.8: use 240VAC-rated cable for all mains wiring & insulate all exposed terminals on the fuseholder
& switch S1 using heatshrink tubing (see text) to prevent any possibility of accidental shock. The mains
cord earth lead (green/yellow) must be soldered to an earth lug which is securely bolted to chassis.
70 Silicon Chip
The LED bargraph display and LEDs
11-12 can be installed now. The 3mm
LEDs used for LED 11 and LED 12 are
installed with their leads untrimmed,
so that the LEDs can later be bent over
and pushed through matching holes in
the front panel. Watch the polarity of
the LEDs – the anode lead is the longer
of the two.
The bargraph (LEDs 1-10) must be
mounted so that the front of the display
is 14mm from the edge of board. This
is done to ensure that it will later sit
flush with the front panel – see Fig.8.
To achieve this, it will be necessary to
extend each lead using a short length
(about 25mm) of tinned copper wire.
Bend the leads at right angles about
6mm above the board before soldering
the bargraph in position.
As before, take care with the polarity of this device. As with individual
LEDs, the anode lead of each LED in
the bargraph is the longer of the two
and it is a good idea to mark the anode
end of the device before extending the
lead lengths.
RF preamplifier
The RF preamplifier board can be
assembled now – see Fig.7. Before
This photo shows the method used to mount the bargraph LEDs (LEDs1-10). The
lead lengths must all be extended using short lengths of tinned copper wire &
the leads must all be bent through 90° after soldering so that the bargraph mates
with its front panel cutout.
mounting any of the parts, it must be
mounted copper side up on the main
PC board and secured by passing short
wire links through the four mounting
points (indicated by solid dots on
Fig.6). Solder these links at each end
to the surrounding copper pattern to
secure the two boards together.
This done, the parts can be mounted
onto the preamplifier board by soldering their leads directly to the undrilled
copper lands (ie, the parts are mounted
on the copper side of the board). Keep
all leads as short as possible and take
TABLE 2: RESISTOR COLOUR CODES
❏
No.
❏ 1
❏ 1
❏ 6
❏ 3
❏ 1
❏ 2
❏ 1
❏ 1
❏ 1
❏ 2
❏
10
❏ 2
❏ 1
❏ 1
❏ 3
❏ 4
❏ 2
❏ 1
❏ 1
❏ 1
❏ 1
❏ 9
Value
1.2MΩ
330kΩ
220kΩ
100kΩ
56kΩ
47kΩ
39kΩ
33kΩ
27kΩ
22kΩ
10kΩ
4.7kΩ
3.9kΩ
3.3kΩ
2.7kΩ
2.2kΩ
1.5kΩ
750Ω
390Ω
300Ω
47Ω
10Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
brown red green brown
orange orange yellow brown
red red yellow brown
brown black yellow brown
green blue orange brown
yellow violet orange brown
orange white orange brown
orange orange orange brown
red violet orange brown
red red orange brown
brown black orange brown
yellow violet red brown
orange white red brown
orange orange red brown
red violet red brown
red red red brown
brown green red brown
violet green brown brown
orange white brown brown
orange black brown brown
yellow violet black brown
brown black black brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown red black yellow brown
orange orange black orange brown
red red black orange brown
brown black black orange brown
green blue black red brown
yellow violet black red brown
orange white black red brown
orange orange black red brown
red violet black red brown
red red black red brown
brown black black red brown
yellow violet black brown brown
orange white black brown brown
orange orange black brown brown
red violet black brown brown
red red black brown brown
brown green black brown brown
violet green black black brown
orange white black black brown
orange black black black brown
yellow violet black gold brown
brown black black gold brown
August 1994 71
iron for this job and run generous fillets of solder along the joints to hold
the shield pieces in position. It is not
necessary to solder along the complete
perimeter; just solder the boards together where you can.
The internal 38 x 12mm board
should be installed with its copper
side facing L5 and L6. Note that the
bottom edge of this board sits about
2mm above the preamplifier board,
to provide clearance for one of the
transistor leads.
With the shield assembly completed, the leads of the ceram
ic
feedthrough capacitors can be connected to the main board and to the
RF preamplifier board using short
lengths of tinned copper wire. The
exception here is the .001µF feed
through capacitor that’s connected
to Q1’s source; it only has one end
connected to the RF preamplifier
board. The lead at the end of the capacitor on the outside of the shield
is simply snipped off.
The two link connections are made
using 0.6mm ECW.
Solder the shield pieces to the RF preamplifier board as shown in this photo &
note that the internal shield piece is installed with its copper side facing L5 &
L6 (to the right). The ceramic feedthrough capacitors are connected to the main
board & to the RF preamplifier board using short lengths of tinned copper wire.
72 Silicon Chip
8
15
A
12
25
15
A
8
care with the orientation of Q1 – its
label should face upwards and the
longest lead should be adjacent to L7.
Do not install the .001µF ceramic
feedthrough capacitors yet, since
these mount into the shield pieces.
Instead, install vertical tinned copper
wire links at each capacitor position
so that these can later be soldered to
the capacitor leads.
The two longest shield pieces can
now be drilled to accept the four
feedthrough capacitors and the two
feedthrough links. Fig.9 shows the
drilling details. Clean away the copper from around the two link holes
using an oversize drill to prevent any
possibility of the links shorting to the
copper. The copper surrounding the
capacitor feedthrough holes should
be left intact and tinned with solder.
You are now ready to install the
feedthrough capacitors. These should
be pushed through so that their
flanges are on the copper side of the
shield pieces – see photos. This done,
the metal bodies of the capacitors
should be soldered to the surrounding
copper.
9
22
27
41
53
COPPER SIDE AT REAR OF PANELS
ALL HOLES 3mm DIA.
REMOVE COPPER AROUND HOLES 'A'
DIMENSIONS IN MILLIMETRES
Fig.9: here are the drilling details for
the two long shield pieces used in the
RF preamplifier.
Once all the feedthrough capacitors are in, the shield pieces can be
soldered to the perimeter of the preamplifier board to form a complete
enclosure. Use a fine-tipped soldering
Final assembly
The completed board assembly is
now ready for installation in the case.
To simplify the description, we will
assume that you are building the unit
from a kit which has pre-punched
holes and screen-printed front and
rear panels. If you are building the
unit from a short-form kit, you will
have to drill the holes yourself using
the PC board and wiring diagram as
a guide.
Assuming that the holes have all
been drilled, assemble the case and
attach the four rubber feet to the base.
This done, install the various items of
hardware on the front and rear panels,
then mount the PC board onto the
baseplate using 5mm standoffs and
3mm screws and nuts. Check that the
LED bargraph display fits neatly into
the slot provided in the front panel
and insert the two 3mm LEDs into
their respective holes.
The transformer can be mounted
next; it is secured using 4mm screws
and nuts. The earth lug is secured
using a 4mm screw, nut and star
washer. Tighten this assembly firmly,
so that there is no possibility of the
earth lug coming adrift. Important:
scrape away the paint or anodising
from around the earth lug mounting
hole before installing the earth lug
This view clearly shows the three feedthrough capacitors & the feedthrough
link on one side of the shield box. Note that the feedthrough capacitor on the
other side of the shield box is not directly connected to the main PC board.
assembly to ensure a good earth
contact.
Fig.8 shows the final wiring details
for the tuner. Exercise extreme care
with the mains wiring. Begin by stripping back the outer mains cord sheath
so that the leads are free to reach from
the back panel to the mains switch (S1)
on the front panel. This done, push
the mains cord through the entry hole
until about 40mm of the outer sheath
is inside the case and clamp it securely
using a cordgrip grommet.
The Neutral (blue) mains lead goes
directly to power switch S1, while the
Active (brown) lead goes to S1 via the
fuse. The transformer primary connections go to the remaining switch
contacts, while the secondary leads
are twisted together and connected to
the 12.6V AC input on the PC board.
Note that the lead from the centre tap
of the transformer is not used and can
be cut off.
Use heatshrink tubing to insulate
the bare fuse and switch contacts to
prevent accidental shock. This is done
by sliding some heatshrink tubing over
the leads before soldering them. After
the connections have been made, the
tubing is pushed over the switch and
74 Silicon Chip
fuse bodies and shrunk into place
using a hot air gun.
The green/yellow lead from the
mains cord is soldered directly to the
earth lug. Leave a loop in this lead so
that it will be the last lead to come
adrift if the mains cord is wrenched
out of the grommet.
Be sure to use shielded audio cable
for the wiring to the pot and to the
output RCA socket – see Fig.8. This
shielded audio cable should be kept
well away from the power transformer to prevent hum injection into the
audio signal.
The antenna test switch (S2) can
be wired using 3-way rain
bow cable. Note that some switches do not
have the same Common, Normally
Open, Normally Closed (C NO NC)
pin arrangement as shown in Fig.8,
so check your switch before making
the connections. The PAL sockets are
wired with 50Ω RF cable.
Finally, use cable ties to secure the
wiring as shown in the photographs.
Note that the mains leads should be
laced together so that if one lead comes
adrift, it cannot come into contact with
the case.
Before applying power, it is a good
idea to check your work carefully for
wiring and component placement
errors. In particu
lar, check that the
mains wiring is correct, that all parts
are correctly oriented, and that there
are no vacant holes on the PC board.
Note that there are two test points
on the PC board: TP1 and TP GND.
You can connect the negative lead
of your multimeter to TP GND for all
subsequent measurements.
Voltage checks
Apply power and check that +12V
appears at the output of REG1. If it is
below this, switch off immediately
and check the regulator circuit and for
shorts on the +12V rail. If the voltage
is correct, check that +12V is present
on the supply pin of each IC (ie, pin
15 of IC1; pin 1 of IC2; pins 3 & 9 of
IC3; pin 8 of IC4, IC5, IC6, IC9 & IC12;
pin 14 of IC7, IC8 & IC10; and pin 16
of IC11).
The source of Q1 should be at about
4V, which sets the quiescent current
through the device at about 10mA.
You should also be able to measure
4V at G1 of Q1 (and on the other side
of the 220kΩ gate resistor). G2 of Q1
should be at about +12V unless the
tuner happens to be tuned to a very
strong signal. This is very unlikely at
this stage since the tuner has not been
aligned and no antenna is attached.
Fig.10 (above) shows the full-size etching pattern for the main PC
board, while Fig.11 at left shows the etching pattern for the RF
preamplifier board. Check your boards carefully for etching defects
by comparing them with these patterns before mounting any of the
parts.
August 1994 75
Lace the internal wiring together using cable ties & note that the mains leads
should be laced together so that if one lead comes adrift, it cannot come into
contact with the case. The shielded audio cable should be kept well away from
the power transformer to prevent hum injection into the audio signal.
The drain of Q1 should be close to
+12V.
At this stage, one of the active
antenna LEDs should be lit or they
may be alternately flashing at about a
1-second rate. In addition, check that
the Neon lamp in the on/off switch
is glowing but do not expect the signal level LEDs to light at this stage.
Assuming that all is well so far, you
can now move on to the alignment
procedure.
Alignment
Alignment of the tuner requires only
a few simple tools. You will need a
screwdriver-type alignment tool, a
tuning wand, a multimeter and an FM
wireless microphone.
An alignment tool has a plastic
handle and a small tip made of either
brass of tough plastic. It must be used
because an ordinary screwdriver
would detune the coil being adjusted
and, as previously mentioned, could
easily crack the ferrite cores.
The tuning wand (see photo) is used
for aligning the RF preamplifier stage.
It consists of a short length of plastic
tubing with a ferrite core at one end
and a brass screw at the other. This
tool can easily be made as shown in
the accompanying photograph. It decreases the inductance when the brass
end is introduced into an air-cored
76 Silicon Chip
coil and increases the inductance
when the ferrite core is introduced
into the coil.
During alignment, the multimeter
is used to monitor the signal level at
TP1, while the wireless microphone
is used as the signal source. The
step-by-step alignment procedure is
as follows:
(1). Connect a simple antenna to the
antenna A input. A 300mm length of
copper wire plugged into the antenna
socket will do the job.
(2). Adjust VR1 so that the first LED
in the bargraph is just extinguished or
is very dim (FM microphone off). This
will set the meter signal output range.
Adjust VR2 and VR3 so that the wiper
of VR2 is at 0.8V and the wiper of VR3
is at 0.3V.
(3). Connect the multimeter between TP1 and TP GND and set it so
that it will read a 0-3V range.
(4). Switch on the FM microphone
and place it close to the antenna.
Now press and hold the antenna test
switch to select antenna A and adjust
the slug in T1 using the alignment
tool until a voltage appears on the
multimeter.
Depending on the initial state of
tune, the signal strength meter will
either show full scale or only a few
LEDs will be lit. Adjust T1 for a maximum voltage reading.
Note: this maximum voltage must
be less than 2.5V, otherwise the meter
circuit may overrange and a false maximum may be obtained. To overcome
this problem, simply move the FM
microphone further away from the
receiving antenna.
(5). Adjust T2 for a maximum
reading, then adjust L10. This done,
adjust T1 again (this is necessary since
adjustments to L10 retune the local
oscillator due to the AFC).
(6). Repeat step 4 to obtain the maximum signal. Note that it is difficult
to tune L10 if the slug is adjusted too
quickly – tune the slug slowly to avoid
missing the signal peak. Note also that
all three coils may have a small range
over which the signal remains at maximum. In each case, find the centre of
this adjustment range and set the slug
to this position.
(7). L6 and L9 can now be adjusted
for maximum signal. Begin by spreading L6 and L9 so that there is about
0.5mm between each winding turn
and adjust VC1 and VC2 for maximum
signal.
(8). Insert the brass end of the tuning wand into L6. If the signal level
decreases, try the ferrite end of the
wand. If the signal decreases again,
then the coil is correctly tuned. More
than likely, the coil will not be tuned
and will need to be stretched or closed
slightly so that both ends of the tuning wand produce a drop in signal
strength.
If the signal goes down with the
brass end of the wand and increases
with the ferrite end, close the coil
slightly by squeezing it gently with
your fingers. Repeat the above test to
see if the coil is now tuned.
Conversely, if the signal goes up
with the brass end and down with the
ferrite end, then the coil will need to
be stretched slightly. Retest the coil
with both ends of the wand after each
adjustment until the tuning is correct
(ie, both ends of the wand cause the
signal level to decrease).
(9). Repeat step 7 for coil L9, then
repeat the entire alignment procedure
again to make sure that everything is
spot on.
(10). Switch off the FM microphone
and set VR2 (the mute threshold trimpot) fully clockwise. Now adjust VR2
anticlockwise until pin 7 of IC5a just
goes low.
Antenna installation
The antenna requirements for the
SILICON CHIP Dual Diversi
ty Tuner
are not particularly difficult. You can
use commercial FM dipole antennas,
TV “rabbit ears” or 1/4-wave whip
antennas. It is not necessary to use
antennas with gain such as multi-element Yagis.
Dipole and rabbit ear antennas
usually have a characteristic impedance of 300Ω, so you will need to use
a balun transformer (for TV sets) to
match these antennas to the 75Ω input
sockets on the rear panel of the tuner.
TV balun transformers are available
for a few dollars from your local parts
retailer.
A 1/4-wave whip is simply a 300400mm length of wire which plugs
into the rear of the tuner. You can make
one up by connecting a suitable length
of stout enamelled copper wire to the
centre pin of a PAL plug. The second
antenna must be separated from the
first by at least three metres and this
is best done using a PAL plug to PAL
socket extension lead.
When installing the tuner, the antennas should be mounted above the
stage or the audience to minimise
signal attenuation due to people
and room objects. Adjust the audio
level pot so that the signal output
level matches the mixer or amplifier
requirements.
After each setup, always test the
unit by having somebody move
around with the FM wireless microphone. The signal strength meter
on the tuner will give you a good
indication of the signal strength from
each antenna. Use the test switch to
select the second antenna to verify
its performance and check that the
Diversity Tuner automatically switches between the two antennas as the
microphone is moved around.
SC
This home-made tuning wand is used for aligning the RF preamplifier stage
& consists of a short length of plastic tubing with a ferrite core at one end &
a brass screw at the other. It decreases the inductance when the brass end is
introduced into an air-cored coil & increases the inductance when the ferrite
core is introduced into the coil.
August 1994 77
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