This is only a preview of the April 1995 issue of Silicon Chip. You can view 29 of the 96 pages in the full issue, including the advertisments. For full access, purchase the issue for $10.00 or subscribe for access to the latest issues. Articles in this series:
Items relevant to "Build An FM Radio Trainer; Pt.1":
Items relevant to "A Photographic Timer For Darkrooms":
Items relevant to "Balanced Microphone Preamplifier & Line Mixer":
Items relevant to "50W/Channel Stereo Amplifier; Pt.2":
Articles in this series:
Articles in this series:
Articles in this series:
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Build a 50W/channel
stereo amplifier; Pt.2
Last month, we introduced our new high
performance 50W/channel stereo amplifier &
described the circuit operation. This month,
we conclude with the presentation of the
construction details.
By LEO SIMPSON & BOB FLYNN
Most of the construction of the new
amplifier is quite straightforward.
The work mainly involves mounting
components on the five printed circuit
board assemblies. These are the power
amplifier board, the input selector
board, the selector switch board, the
tone control board and the optional
RIAA preamp board.
The first job is to assemble the
input selector board which is shown
in Fig.7(a). This board is coded
01103951 and carries the RCA input
and output sockets. Before mounting
any of the parts, it is a good idea to
carefully check the copper pattern
on the underside of the board. You
should especially check for shorts
between the long parallel tracks to
the selector switch.
42 Silicon Chip
Don’t just rely on a visual check
here – switch your multimeter to a
high Ohms range and use it to confirm
that the tracks are isolated from each
other. This test will quickly locate
faults on any board that has not been
correctly etched. You will need to go
through a similar checking procedure
with each of the other boards when
you come to them.
Now install the parts as shown in
Fig.7(a). The first job is to install the
25 PC pins. Fourteen of these support
the selector switch assembly and these
should be installed from the copper
side of the PC board; ie, so that the
shoulder of each pin sits against its
respective copper pad. The remaining
pins are located at the left and right
channel outputs, the tape inputs and
the optional RIAA preamp inputs. If
you’re not building this latter board,
you can forget the pins for the preamp
inputs but install a couple of links
instead. These links are shown dotted
on the diagram.
This board is completed by soldering in the three 3 x 2-way RCA
socket panels. One of these, at the end
adjacent to the selector switch, is cut
down to a 2 x 2-way, so that a total of
16 RCA sockets is provided.
Fig.8(a) shows the selector switch
board (code 01103952). Position the
switch with the locating spigot towards the top and push the body of
the switch all the way down onto the
board before soldering the terminals.
The pads along the bottom edge of the
switch board can now be soldered to
the 14 PC pins on the input selector
board.
Tone control board
Fig.9(a) shows the parts layout
on the tone control PC board (code
0110
3953). Commence assembly by
installing PC pins at the external
wiring points, then fit the wire links,
resistors, capacitors and semiconductors. Check the orientation of polarised
Fig.7(a): the input
selector board.
Note that if the
optional RIAA
preamp is not
included in the
amplifier, the two
links shown dotted
should be included
& the associated PC
pins omitted.
TAPE
IN
TAPE
OUT
AUX2
AUX 1
VCR
TUNER
CD
PHONO
GND
IF RIAA PREAMPLIFIER IS FITTED: REMOVE
LINKS SHOWN DOTTED. R AND L CONNECT
TO INPUTS AND RR AND LL CONNECT TO
OUTPUTS OF PREAMP BOARD
LL
R
L
RR
1k
1k
PCB PINS SOLDERED TO TRACKS OF SWITCH BOARD
LEFT GND RIGHT
TO TAPE INPUT
OF CONTROL BOARD
LEFT GND RIGHT
TO SOURCE INPUT
OF CONTROL BOARD
Fig.7(b): this is the fullsize etching pattern for
the input selector board.
parts carefully when installing them
on the board. These include the ICs,
diodes, transistors and electrolytic
capacitors. The 6.8µF and 22µF capacitors are bipolar types and can be
installed either way around.
The headphone socket, pots and
pushbutton switches should be left till
last. Be sure to push them all the way
down onto the board but don’t solder
all the leads at this stage. Instead, tack
solder diagonally opposite pins at
either end of each component.
The tone control assembly can now
be tested in the chassis to ensure that
everything aligns properly. Adjust the
alignment of the pots and switches
as necessary before soldering the remaining pins.
Balance control
Fig.10 shows the wiring of the
switch for the balance control. The
resistors are wired around the switch
pins together with three short lengths
of hook-up wire. These are soldered
to the tone control board which can
now be mounted in the chassis. It is
mounted to the front panel using the
pot nuts and lockwashers. The rear
of the tone control board is secured
using two 12mm tapped spacers and
screws.
Don’t fit the dress panel to the chassis at this stage. It should be left in
its protective wrapping for as long as
possible, to protect it from scratches.
When all the pot nuts are secured,
use your multimeter to check that all
the pot cases are electrically connected
together, via the chassis. If not, it might
be necessary to remove the board from
S1
Fig.8(a): the selector switch board.
This mates up to the 14 pins on the
input selector board & is soldered at
right angles to it.
Fig.8(b): the etching pattern for the
selector switch board. Check that it
has been trimmed correctly along the
bottom, so that there are no shorts.
April 1995 43
MONITOR
S2
3
2
BALANCE
S4
1
1k
1k
MODE
S3
1k
SOURCE
INPUT
L GND R
TAPE
INPUT
L GND R
1k
1uF
1
22uF
22uF
100uF
100pF
VOLUME
VR1
100pF
100uF
1uF
15k
4.7k
1k
100k
IC1
LM833
15k
4.7k
1k
100k
4.7k
4.7k
TREBLE
VR3
.0047
33pF
22k
22k
.0047
100uF
4.7k
100uF
1
33pF
IC2
LM833
.0047
.0047
4.7k
-15V
LED K
22k
GND
.01
0.1
3.9k
.01
+15V
LED A
BASS
VR2
22k
0.1
22k
82
82
Q2
5.6k
Q1
6.8uF
HEADPHONES
D2
5.6k
Q2
6.8uF
1
D1
5.6k
47k
33pF
15
15
100
100
Q1
22k
10k
10k
15
15
OUTPUT TO
POWER
AMPLIFIERS
R GND L
22k
D1
5.6k
D2
47k
33pF
10k
10k
IC3
TLO72
TONE
DEFEAT
S5
100uA
100uF
22k
44 Silicon Chip
Fig.9(a) (left): the tone control board. Note that
while the balance control (S4) looks like a single
potentiometer, it is actually a rotary switch, as
shown in Fig.10 on the facing page. Fig.9(b) (above)
shows the PC pattern for this board. This is shown
70% of actual size & may be reproduced full size
by enlarging it by a factor of 1.41 on a photostat
machine.
RIAA preamp board
As noted previously, this preamp
board is optional and we assume that
many readers will not need it. The
parts layout is shown in Fig.11(a).
It’s best to start with the smaller parts
(resistors and wire links) first. Take
care with the orientation of the LM833
IC and the electrolytic capacitors. The
two input inductors (L1) are each made
by winding four turns of 0.4mm enamelled copper wire on a ferrite bead
(Philips type 4330 030 3218).
Power amplifier board
This board is identical to that presented in the February 1995 issue
but we are repeating the assembly
instructions here for the sake of
completeness. The component layout
is shown in Fig.13(a). To begin, first
install the PC pins and links, followed
91k
7
6
7k
4.
4.
7k
91k
5
1.6k
4
9
1.6k
8
3
S4
82 0
A
10
2
11
6k
1.
12
82 0
the chassis and then take a round file to
lightly clean off any paint or anodising
from around the pot mounting holes.
The reason for making sure that the
pots are properly earthed is to keep
hum and noise to a minimum.
Don’t forget to strip the enamel off
the ends of the lead wires before the
inductors are soldered into the PC
board.
1
1.
6k
This photo gives a good general view of the tone control board and the power
amplifier board.
1
3
2
CONNECT TO PINS 1, 2 AND 3
ON CONTROL BOARD
The balance control is an 11-position rotary switch with resistors wired around
its terminals. This arrangement gives much better separation between channels
than a potentiometer.
Fig.10: here’s how the rotary switch is
wired with the resistors to provide the
balance control.
April 1995 45
10uF
22uF
1M
RIGHT OUTPUT
GND
150
RIGHT INPUT
.015
390W
100pF
100k
100
100k
GND
200k
16k
.0047
1
L1
100k
LEFT OUTPUT
100pF
1M
10uF
390
GND
100
100k
0V
-15V
16k
150
GND
0.1
47uF
.0047
0.1
IC1
LM833
LEFT INPUT
+15V
47uF
L1
200k
.015
22uF
Fig.11(a): the optional RIAA preamplifier board. The large
electrolytic capacitors are bipolar types & can be installed
either way around.
by the resistors and capacitors. Make
sure that you install the electrolytic
capacitors with correct polarity. This
done, install the fuse clips and note
that there is a trick to this task. The
clips have little lugs at one end which
stop the fuse from moving longitudinally. If you install the clips the wrong
way around, you won’t be able to fit
the fuses.
HEATSINK
3mm SCREW
DEVICE
MICA
WASHER
INSULATING
BUSH
Fig.11(b): the full-size etching pattern for the optional
RIAA preamplifier board. In most cases, this board
will not be needed.
3mm
WASHER
3mm
NUT
Fig.12: each LM3886
is insulated from
its heatsink using
a mica washer &
insulating bush.
Smear the mating
surfaces lightly with
heatsink compound
before bolting the
assembly together.
The mains switch should have its lugs sleeved with heatshrink tubing to avoid
the possibility of electric shock.
46 Silicon Chip
L1, the loudspeaker filter inductor,
consists of 15 turns of 0.5mm enamelled copper wire wound onto a 10Ω
1W resistor and soldered at both ends.
To wind it, first scrape the enamel off
the start of the copper wire and solder
it to one end of the resistor. Now neatly
wind 15 turns onto the resistor body,
then scrape the enamel off the end
of the wire and solder it to the other
end of the resistor. Finally, install and
solder the assembly into the PC board.
The positive and negative power
supply connections to the right channel should be made with heavy duty
hook-up wire (32 x 0.2mm or better)
which should be twisted as shown on
Fig.13(a). The 0V connections should
be made via the same sort of hook-up
wire but underneath the board.
Finally, you can install the power
ICs. Make sure that the tabs of the devices line up precisely with the back
edge of the PC board so that they can
be properly secured to the heatsinks.
Next, fit 15mm metal standoffs to
the board and line up the heatsinks
against the ICs so that the positions of
the mounting screws can be marked.
After drilling these holes, use standard
TO-3P mounting kits to secure the ICs
to the heatsinks – see Fig.12.
Use your multimeter (switched to a
high “Ohms” range) to make sure that
the IC mounting tabs are isolated from
the heatsinks. The heatsinks we used
are supplied by Altronics (Cat H-0522).
To mount them into the chassis, you
could use small L-shaped brackets or,
April 1995 47
-15V
100uF
47uF
0V
4700uF
0V
+35V
-35V
F3
32 x 0.2 INSULATED WIRE ON COPPER SIDE OF BOARD
+15V
100uF
REG1
330 1W
47uF
4700uF
SPEAKER
GND
1
10 / L1
0.1
SPEAKER
47uF
1k
1uF
GND INPUT
(NC)
1k
22uF
22k
5.6 1W
F2
Fig.13(b): this is the full-size artwork for the power amplifier PC board. Check all PC boards carefully for
possible etching defects (compare them with the published patterns) before installing any of the parts.
-35V
F3
+35V
0.1
100uF
SPEAKER
GND
1
47uF
GND INPUT
(NC)
1k
22uF
22k
IC1 3886
SPEAKER
0.1
5.6 1W
0.1
100uF
39k
100uF
10 / L1
IC1 3886
220pF
22k
Fig.13(a): this is the parts layout on the power amplifier board. Use PC stakes to terminate external
connections & note the twisted supply connections for the righthand channel. The leads shown dotted
are underneath the board. The two LM3886 audio amplifier ICs must be insulated from the heatsinks, as
shown in Fig.12.
REG2
25VAC
BR1
330 1W
100uF
39k
CT
330 1W
330 1W
0.1
220pF
22k
25VAC
0.1
1k
1uF
F2
LEFT
F1
1A
RIGHT
SPEAKER
OUTPUTS
CORD
GRIP
GROMMET
EARTH
A (BROWN)
POWER
TRANSFORMER
EARTH
LUE)
N (B
TRANSFORMER SECONDARIES
GREY
BLACK, BLUE AND GROUND CONNECTION
ACTIVE
RED
POWER AMPLIFIER BOARD
-35V
WHITE
+15V
0V
G
(NC) L
-15V
WHITE
GND
(0V)
-35V
LEFT
OUTPUT
DO NOT EARTH
SIGNAL BRAIDS AT
POWER AMPLIFIER
+35V
+35V
R G L
OUTPUT TO
POWER
AMPLIFIER
EARTHED TO CASE
A
LED1
K
-15V
TWO SOLDER LUGS
+15V
0V
.01
250VAC
MAINS
TERMINAL
STRIP
CONTROL BOARD
TONE DEFEAT
S5
HEADPHONES
BASS
VR2
POWER
S7
K
LED1
48 Silicon Chip
A
TREBLE
VR3
VOLUME
VR1
as we did, blind-tap holes into the edge
to secure them directly.
EXTERNAL
EQUIPMENT
GROUND
PHONO
CD
TUNER
VCR
AUX 1
AUX 2
TAPE IN
TAPE OUT
Chassis wiring
GND R
L
L
INPUT BOARD
R
SELECTOR
S1
G
(NC) R
RIAA-IEC PREAMPLIFIER
BOARD
BALANCE
S4
GND
RIGHT OUTPUT
+15V
0V
MONITOR
S2
-15V
MODE
S3
GND
RIGHT INPUT
LEFT INPUT
L G R
SOURCE
INPUT
GND
GND
L G R
TAPE
INPUT
LEFT OUTPUT
RIGHT
OUTPUT
Fig.14 shows the chassis wiring details. The mains cord enters through a
hole in the rear panel and is securely
clamped using a cord-grip grommet.
Strip back the outer sheath of the
mains cord by about 80mm. The Active
(brown) lead goes to the fuseholder
while the Neutral (blue) lead goes to
the mains terminal block. The other
side of the fuseholder goes to the
mains terminal block and then to the
mains switch.
The Earth lead (green/yellow) is
soldered to one of the adjacent solder
lugs. The second solder lug terminates
the earth lead which is run along the
rear panel from the binding post terminal adjacent to the RCA input sockets.
Don’t alter the earth wiring – you may
get a hum loop if you do.
The primary leads of the transformer
are connected to the mains terminal
block, as shown, while the 25V secondary leads are connected to the
screw terminal block on the power
amplifier board. Be careful to use the
correct phasing of the secondary leads,
otherwise you will not get any DC
output from the bridge rectifier.
Be sure to use mains-rated 250VAC
cable for the connections to the power
switch. We used heatshrink tubing to
cover the switch lugs after the wires
had been soldered on. We also sleeved
the connections to the fuseholder. This
avoids the possibility of an electric
shock from the switch terminals.
Note that the .01µF 250VAC “anti-thump” capacitor connected at the
mains terminal block must be rated
at 250VAC.
Do not install the shielded signal
cables at this stage. The next step is
to power up each board in turn and
check that it is operating correctly. We
start with the power amplifier board,
since it the most involved. But first,
Fig.14 (left): the chassis wiring details.
Take care when installing the mains
wiring & sleeve all exposed terminals
on the fuseholder & mains switch with
heatshrink tubing to avoid accidental
contact. Make sure also that the mains
cord is securely clamped by the cord
grip grommet.
April 1995 49
RESISTOR COLOUR CODES
❏
No.
❏ 2
❏ 2
❏ 2
❏ 2
❏
12
❏ 2
❏ 4
❏ 4
❏ 8
❏ 1
❏ 4
❏
12
❏ 2
❏ 4
❏ 2
❏ 2
❏ 4
❏ 2
❏ 2
Value
100kΩ
91kΩ
47kΩ
39kΩ
22kΩ
15kΩ
10kΩ
5.6kΩ
4.7kΩ
3.9kΩ
1.6kΩ
1kΩ
820Ω
330Ω
100Ω
82Ω
15Ω
10Ω
5.6Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black yellow brown
white brown orange brown
yellow violet orange brown
orange white orange brown
red red orange brown
brown green orange brown
brown black orange brown
green blue red brown
yellow violet red brown
orange white red brown
brown blue red brown
brown black red brown
grey red brown brown
orange orange brown brown
brown black brown brown
grey red black brown
brown green black brown
brown black black brown
green blue gold brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black orange brown
white brown black red brown
yellow violet black red brown
orange white black red brown
red red black red brown
brown green black red brown
brown black black red brown
green blue black brown brown
yellow violet black brown brown
orange white black brown brown
brown blue black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
grey red black black brown
orange orange black black brown
brown black black black brown
grey red black gold brown
brown green black gold brown
brown black black gold brown
green blue black silver brown
OPTIONAL RIAA PREAMP
❏
No.
❏ 2
❏ 2
❏ 4
❏ 2
❏ 2
❏ 2
❏ 2
Value
1MΩ
200kΩ
100kΩ
16kΩ
390Ω
150Ω
100Ω
check all your work carefully against
the associated wiring diagrams of
Fig.13(a) and Fig.14.
Power amplifier testing
Before checking the power amplifier board, connect a 1kΩ 0.5W resistor
between the +15V and 0V rails at the
3-way terminal block (adjacent to
the 3-terminal regulators). This 1kΩ
resistor will draw a 15mA current
from the +15V supply rail and thus
ensure that the input voltage to the
7815 regulator does not exceed the
ratings (ie, 35V).
Now apply power and check the
supply rails. They will nor
m ally
be around ±37V, depending on the
value of the AC mains voltage. Now
check the quiescent current in each
channel. This can be done in one
of two ways. The first is to remove
50 Silicon Chip
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black green brown
red black yellow brown
brown black yellow brown
brown blue orange brown
orange white brown brown
brown green brown brown
brown black brown brown
one fuse (while the power is off) and
connect your multimeter, switched
to an “Amps” range, across the fuse
clips. With no input signal and no
load, the quiescent current should
typically be around 30mA but may
range up to 70mA.
Alternatively, you can connect a
100Ω 1W resistor across the positive
rail fuse clips and measure the voltage across it. For a current of 30mA,
the voltage across the 100Ω resistor
should be 3V DC. The DC voltage at
the output of each channel should be
within ±15mV of 0V DC.
Next connect suitably rated loudspeakers and check that you can get an
output. With no signal, both channels
should be very quiet. If you touch the
input PC pins on the PC board you
should get an audible “blurt” from the
relevant loudspeaker.
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black yellow brown
red black black orange brown
brown black black orange brown
brown blue black red brown
orange white black black brown
brown green black black brown
brown black black black brown
If the circuit isn’t working, check
all the audio paths from the input
through to the output for continuity.
You should also check that the PC pins
are well soldered into position, as is
link LK1. If LK1 is open circuit, the
amplifier will be muted.
If all is well, switch off, connect the
±15V supply wires to the tone control
board and check the voltages on it.
This done, connect the supply wires
to the RIAA preamp (if fit
ted) and
check the voltages on it. If all these
checks are OK, you can complete the
wiring of the amplifier by running all
the shielded cable, as shown in Fig.14.
You will also need to fit the extension
shaft to the selector switch.
Troubleshooting
If the above measurements are not
OK, the most likely causes are broken
Compare this photo of the amplifier with the chassis wiring diagram of Fig.14.
Note that the RIAA preamp in the righthand front corner is optional & if left out,
it leaves an extra pair of high level inputs.
tracks or solder bridges between IC
pins. For example, if you have the
correct supply voltages on an IC but
its output is close to +15V or -15V, it
is most likely that there is a break in
the feedback network or to the inputs
to that IC.
You can follow this up by measuring
the voltage at the input pins of the ICs.
Again, these should all be very close
to 0V. If not, check for breaks in the
copper track, poor solder joints, and
that the IC is not in the wrong way
around.
Note: if you’ve put the IC in the
right way around, it is most unlikely
that any malfunction will be due to a
faulty IC. So don’t immediately rush
out and buy new ICs if you strike
problems.
What happens if one of the power
amplifiers is not working? If the other
channel is working correctly, then you
have an ideal crosscheck. Check the
voltages in the good channel and then
in the bad channel and you can usually get a fair idea of what the problem
is. It is unlikely that you will get the
same fault in both channels, unless
you have made the same assembly
mistake in both!
Listening tests
No, we’re not going to listen to
music – yet. The idea of the next few
checks is to make sure that everything
is really working as it should. You’ll
need a pair of headphones. Plug them
into the headphone socket, turn on the
power and listen.
With the Volume at minimum you
shouldn’t be able to hear anything. If
you now select the phono input and
wind up the Volume to maximum, you
will hear some hiss and a small amount
of hum. That is normal.
If you now switch to the other inputs
(CD, Tuner, etc), the noise should drop
to extremely low levels (we doubt
you’ll be able to hear anything, even
in a very quiet room). Now wind the
Volume control back, switch to the
CD inputs and try poking a small
screwdriver into the left channel input
socket. You should hear a “blurt” in
the left channel. Now try the test for
the right channel.
If you repeat this test for extreme
CAPACITOR CODES
❏
❏
❏
❏
❏
❏
❏
Value
1µF
.01µF
.0047µF
220pF
100pF
33pF
IEC
1u0
10n
4n7
220p
100p
33p
EIA
105
103
472
221
101
33
OPTIONAL RIAA PREAMP
❏
❏
❏
❏
❏
Value
1µF
.015µF
.0047µF
100pF
IEC
1u0
15n
4n7
100p
EIA
105
153
472
101
settings of the tone controls (eg, full
bass boost, full bass cut, etc) you can
confirm that they are working as well.
Similarly, you can check the operation
of the Mono/Stereo switch and the
Balance control.
If all is well, the front panel can
now be mounted but be careful – one
scratch and you’ll ruin the appearance
of the whole project. Fit the lid to the
SC
case and the job is finished.
April 1995 51
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