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SERVICEMAN'S LOG
Symptoms don’t seem to help any more
Is it my imagination or is it becoming more
& more difficult to relate the symptoms to the
fault? Time was when most symptoms gave at
least a hint as to the area involved. But in both
this month’s stories, they were no help at all.
This is the third story in the Contec
saga and must be regarded as weirder
that most, if only because even the
customer’s complaint was weird. And,
as I’ve already hinted, the symptoms
gave no clues at all.
As usual, it was the motel proprietor himself who fronted up to the
counter, lugging the offending set with
him. And in answer to my query as to
the nature of the problem, he replied
(somewhat facetiously I now realise),
“It’s the remote control system – it only
half switches the set off”.
40 Silicon Chip
My private reaction was, “Don’t be
silly – how can you half switch a set
off? It’s either on or it’s off”. However,
when I spoke to the customer, I was
a little more circumspect: “How do
you mean?”
He grinned. “Turn it on and I’ll
show you”.
So we hooked the set up to a power point, connected an antenna and
turned it on. And up came a first
class picture. I flicked through all the
channels, tried the various controls,
and everything seemed fine. So it was
over to the customer to explain further.
He produced the remote control
unit and pressed the OFF button. And
I had to admit the his description of
what happened wasn’t all that silly
after all. There was still a picture on
the screen but there was a total loss
of colour. There was also some loss of
brightness and a noticeable shrinkage
in picture size, amounting to about
12mm on all four sides.
Pressing the ON command on the
remote control unit brought everything
back to normal. There is no standby
control on the set itself, as with some
sets; only a normal ON/OFF switch
directly in the mains circuit. And of
course, this functioned normally.
Well, I had no quick answer to that
one. So the set was left with me to
tackle when I felt a little stronger.
Power supply checks
I went first to the power supply and
to the HT rail coming from it – see
Fig.1. This is derived from pins 5 and 6
of T502, the switch mode transformer,
via diode D516, 100µF capacitor C523,
and series transistor Q507. It goes out
on pin 1 of plug/socket C.
This rail is shown as 114.9V – a
rather unnecessary order of precision,
I felt, but at least we did have a figure.
Checking this when the set was operating normally confirmed that it was
very close to this value.
I then tried to turn the set off via the
remote control. This should have reduced the HT rail to zero but it didn’t.
That in itself didn’t surprise me but
I did imagine that it might drop by
some amount.
But no; it actually rose very slightly,
by about 1.5V. The amount was not
significant in itself but the fact that it
was the opposite of what one would
expect made the whole situation that
much more puzzling.
With no obvious clues, I decided
to trace out the remote control path
and check for possible faults in this
section. It wasn’t a particularly dif-
-31V
TO PIN 27
OF IC 801
5V
4
F
3
F
1
F
12V
2
F
1
E
2
E
8
1
D510 C514
47
7
6
240V
D511
3
4
2
5
R519
1k
IC
510
IC502
330
C515
470
0.1
Q506
T501
Q505
T502
Fig.1: the Contec MSVR-5383
power supply again. The on/
off control signals from pin
27 of IC801 come in on pin 1
of socket F & go to the base of
transistor Q509. This transistor
then controls Q508 & Q507. When
pin 27 goes high, Q507 turns on
& delivers the HT voltage to pin
1 of socket C. Conversely, when
pin 27 goes low, Q507 turns off &
removes the HT rail.
ficult exercise. Infrared pulses from
the remote control unit are picked up
and processed by the infrared receiver,
IC601.
The resultant signals come out on
pin 2 of this IC and go to pin 35 of
IC801, the central processing unit.
This, in turn, toggles pin 27 between
4.5V and 0V at each press of the ON/
OFF button on the remote control to
switch the HT rail on and off respectively. In fact, this is the only function
that this signal performs.
Jumping ahead a little, the actual
switching is performed by series
transistor Q507. This, in turn, is
controlled by transistors Q508 and
Q509. When the voltage from pin 27
of the CPU goes to +4.5V, Q509 turns
on and so Q508 & Q507 also turn on
to provide the HT rail. At the same
time, Q505 & Q506 also turn on to
provide the 12V rail.
Conversely, when the voltage on
pin 27 of the CPU goes low, Q509,
Q508, Q507, Q505 & Q506 all switch
off and the HT and +12V rails are
removed.
At least, that is what should happen.
In fact, there was no change of voltage
Q507
114.9V C
5
6
D516
C
C523
C
1
2
3
Q508
Q509
at the base of Q507 as the on/off function was initiated. I was able to trace
the signal to the collector of Q509 and
from there to the base of Q508 but no
further. There was no change at the
collector of Q508 and, of course, none
at the base of Q507.
So it looked as though either Q508
or Q507 was faulty. I pulled Q508 out
and checked it and it appeared to be
OK. I then did the same with Q507
and found that it appeared to be a
dead short. But I must confess that,
as a result of subsequent thinking, I
did wonder whether the fault was
more subtle than that. But more on
that later.
The immediate requirement was for
a replacement transistor. I didn’t have
the Q807 type (a 2SC3310) or any of its
direct equivalents in stock but I finally
settled for a 2SD841 which has slightly
higher ratings. This, I felt, should be a
suitable substitute.
And that was the answer. It wouldn’t
have surprised me if there had been
more than one fault, considering the
various symptoms, but the set came
good immediately, and responded
quite positively to the remote control
signals. So, at a practical level, that
was the end of the exercise.
Puzzling symptoms
But I couldn’t help wondering why
the set behaved as it did. Why the
loss of colour, the reduced brightness
and the picture shrinkage? And why
the slight increase in HT voltage, in
response to the remote control signal?
And the truth is, I’m still wondering.
I spent a lot of time going over the
circuit – and the set itself, before I re
turned it – analysing the circuit and
making measurements in an effort to
rationalise its behaviour. I didn’t make
much progress.
At one stage, I wondered whether
the slight increase in HT voltage
was due to some subtle aspect of the
transistor failure but I was eventually
forced to discard that theory. I am
now convinced that Q807 was simply a dead short and was not able to
respond to the signal from the CPU
in any way. The observed symptoms
were due to some other mechanism
and had nothing to do with the voltage
on pin 27.
As I mentioned earlier, the line from
January 1995 41
SERVICEMAN’S LOG – CTD
pin 27 of the CPU goes only to the base
of Q509. Granted, there is another
function derived from this. The 12V
rail, derived from the 50Hz transform
er T501, is turned on and off from the
HT rail by means of transistors Q505
and Q506. Unfortunately, as far as
any explanation goes, it doesn’t help;
the 12V rail supplies only the audio
IC, IC904.
And that apparently leaves only one
possible explanation; that the signal
coming out on pin 27 performs a number of switching functions within the
CPU or comes out on some other pin(s)
and controls other external functions.
A prime suspect here would be IC701,
which handles most of the video and
colour processing.
Building on this theory is the idea
that, if some functions were turned
off (colour processing, for example),
then there could be a reduction in HT
current drain. This could be sufficient
to cause the extra 1.5V or so which I
observed.
And the picture shrinkage? Again,
this could be tied to the higher HT rail
voltage. I had my doubts about this
idea initially; doubts that such a small
change in HT voltage could have such
an obvious affect on picture size. So I
pulled a swifty. The HT rail voltage is
set by a regulator network within the
power supply and, more specifically,
by potentiometer VR501.
So, with a crosshatch pattern on the
screen, I fiddled VR501 to produce
an increase of around 1.5V. And the
result was a degree of shrinkage very
close to that which accompanied the
fault.
So there it is; these are the best
theories I can advance. If anyone is
closer to this circuit and can offer a
more detailed explanation, then be
my guest.
That’s enough from me for this
month. I’ll now pass you over to my
colleague, J. L., from latitude 42 degrees south, or thereabouts. This is
how he describes his latest weirdo.
Just a stereo amplifier
Now here’s one you are going to find
hard to believe!
Most stereo amplifiers are just that
– stereo amplifiers. But not when it’s
a Sony STR-AV1070X.
42 Silicon Chip
The 1070X is an integrated AM-FM
stereo receiver, with no less than six
speaker outlets, left and right for front,
centre and back! And for inputs, it can
accept two phono players, two cassette
tape decks, a CD player, a digital audio
tape deck, an external equaliser, and
three video decks!
The entire system can be remote
controlled with a “Remote Commander”, featuring buttons to work the radio
and amplifier, as well as TV and VCR,
CD player and DAT recorder! It can
operate Sony equipment with builtin codes and can also learn the codes
of other brands if one should be so
crass as to connect them to such an
elaborate unit.
The remote control carries two
small slide switches and 80 buttons.
Yes, that’s right, 80 function buttons!
And its all packed on a handpiece just
200mm long, 70mm wide, and 20mm
thick. That’s hardly larger than an
ordinary TV/VCR controller!
Pardon the exclamation marks, but
this amplifier has everything!!
My customer spent half a day
removing all the input and output
connections, then staggered into my
workshop with the monster cradled
in both arms – it weights something
like 20kg – and gingerly placed it on
the bench.
I had been alerted to his approach
with what was supposed to be “... just
a stereo amplifier”. But I expected
nothing like this and I very nearly
asked him to take it somewhere else.
Later, when I had heard a list of all his
problems, I was even more convinced
that if he wouldn’t take it elsewhere,
then I would.
It appeared that he had an intermittent problem. Sometimes when
he tried to adjust the volume with
the remote control, the process would
start normally but then the controller
would apparently lose contact with
the set and the volume would continue to increase up to maximum. And
since this amplifier has an output
rating of 250W + 250W into 4-ohms,
his neighbours were thinking of taking up a petition.
But there was more. At the same
time as the volume control took off on
its own, the front panel display would
go crazy, indicating wrong functions
or no functions at all. Similarly, there
were times when nothing at all would
work and the set had to be switched
off at the mains to restore normal
operation.
On the basis of his description of
the symptoms, I suspected that the
entire system was microprocessor
controlled and that it was this section
that was causing the problems. And
since it was intermittent, with the
system working normally for much
of the time, I guessed the fault was
going to involve dry joints or something like that.
The owner brought along a 44-page
user manual for the unit and although
it gave lots of detail about operating
the set, there was nothing at all of a
technical nature. Fortunately, I am
on good terms with the local Sony
specialists so next day I visited their
workshop and was able to consult their
service manual.
A real eye-opener
This was a real eye-opener. It included several 6-page foldout schematic diagrams, as well as minutely
detailed PCB diagrams. The “circuit
board location” diagram reproduced
here – see Fig.2 – gives some idea of
the complexity of this amplifier. There
are no less than 18 separate PC boards
(and I can’t even find one labelled
“tuner board”!).
Honestly, I’ve seen video cassette
recorders with less complexity than
this stereo amplifier. And a colour TV
set is a snack after this thing!
A quick glance through the manual
convinced me that I was going to have
to study the circuitry long and hard
before I could ever come to grips with
it. So I made arrangements to borrow
the manual for the weekend and was
about to leave for home when their
audio technician entered the work-
shop. After exchanging greetings and
other pleasantries, I asked him if he
had ever had to work on an AV1070X.
“Not often”, was his reply, “but what’s
wrong with yours?”
I started to explain that the volume
control ran up to full and he continued “... when you use the remote
commander, and the displays go
crazy and the set has to be turned off
to reset everything?” It was almost
word for word as my customer had
explained it.
Quite obviously, it was a fault that
had been around for a while. The 1070X
is not a common stereo amplifier, so
January 1995 43
TRANSFORMER-3 BOARD
(1070X : E MODEL)
SPEAKER OUT BOARD
VOLTAGE SELECTOR BOARD
(1070X) : E MODEL
POWER BOARD
TRANSFORMER-1 BOARD (970X0)
TRANSFORMER-2 BOARD (1070X)
REAR BOARD
SURROUND SPEAKER
BOARD
HEADPHONE
BOARD
VIDEO
BOARD
SURROUND
BOARD
DISPLAY BOARD
MAIN BOARD
POWER IC BOARD
EQUALISER BOARD
MUTE BOARD
RELAY BOARD
BALANCE VR BOARD
VOLUME BOARD
Fig.2: this “Circuit Boards Location” diagram for the Sony STR-AV1070X
audio/video amplifier gives some indication of the physical complexity of the
assembly. The main board, identified on the right, is underneath everything else.
it’s not surprising that only the Sony
specialists knew about the fault. What
is surprising is that the fault should be
so common as to be instantly recognisable, even to a specialist.
Washers & wire
For all that, my colleague’s next
statement was probably the most
unexpected thing I’ve ever heard. He
said, “all you need to cure the problem
is five spring washers and a piece of
wire!”
He went to a drawer and took out
an A4-sized plastic bag containing, as
far as I could see, one sheet of paper.
The paper carried a Sony heading
and outlined a list of symptoms, just
like those my customer had reported.
The document gave no indication
as to what causes the problem but it
proceeded to give details of where and
how to fit five spring washers and a
short length of wire.
I asked if I could have a photocopy
of the paper and was told I could have
that one. Then I started to remove it
from the plastic bag, only to be told
that I would “... need that because the
washers are special!” It was only then
that I noticed the five tiny internal star
washers in one corner of the bag.
And on the other side of the paper was a 150mm length of wire to
44 Silicon Chip
complete what must be the simplest
modification kit I’ve ever seen.
I thanked my friend for the information and the kit, then returned to my
workshop to see if I could complete
the job before lunch.
The five spring washers were to be
fitted under the heads of two of the
self-tapping screws that secured the
main circuit board to the chassis and
between the circuit board and the chas
sis where it was secured by three more
self-tapping screws. The length of wire
was to link an earth track on the front
display panel to the main earth track
near the microprocessor.
That sounds easy enough but when
I pulled the cover off the chassis,
my heart sank. One end of the frame
was occupied by an enormous power
transformer and the rest of it was filled
with circuit boards and massive finned
heatsinks. The main board, the one
secured by the aforementioned screws,
was at the bottom of all that lot and
virtually inaccessible.
There is no point in trying to tell
exactly how I did the job. Suffice to say
that I had to remove three of the power
transistors and their associated heatsink to get at two of the screws. The
other three were almost as difficult,
since the washers had to go between
the board and the chassis – pushed
into position through a small hole in
the side panel of the chassis.
Lining them up was a nightmare
but the job was eventually done and
the screws retightened. I then had to
remove the front panel to get at the
track that was to be connected to one
end of the length of wire.
The points to be joined by the wire
were only 30-40mm apart and I wondered why Sony had packed a 150mm
length of wire in the modification kit.
I soon found out!
With the wire attached to the front
panel and the panel replaced on
the chassis, there was absolutely no
way I could reach the wire to pull it
through to the main board. I had to
remove the front panel, thread the wire
through a gap some distance from the
actual earth points, and then replace
everything and pull the wire up to
reach the second point. I could then
cut off the surplus and make the joint.
Fitting three of the spring washers
and the wire link had taken me something over an hour. I then had to test
the thing!
Fortunately for my neighbours, I
don’t have six large loudspeakers, so
I couldn’t do a dynamic test. However,
the owner had suggested that the intermittent front panel display always
accom
panied the volume problem
and, since the volume control was
motor driven and one could see if it
was operating correctly, I was happy
enough to sit there pressing the remote
control buttons and watching for any
signs of distress.
No more malfunctions
Fortunately, there were no malfunctions and the customer has reported no
problems in the three months since he
took the monster home again. So I’d
say it’s cured.
But what a tale of woe about something as supposedly simple as a stereo
amplifier! I still don’t know exactly
what was wrong with the unit but it
was obviously something to do with
ineffective chassis connections for the
circuitry associated with the microprocessor. And what an awkward, fiddly
process it proved to be to fit such a
simple modification kit.
Thanks J. L. Your story only confirms my impression that the game
is getting harder all the time. And, of
course, the hills are getting steeper,
the print’s getting smaller, and everySC
body’s mumbling!
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