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A low-cost electric
fence controller
Based on an automotive ignition coil,
this Electric Fence Controller is ideal for
controlling livestock. It’s easy to build and
can power fence lines up to 1km long.
•
•
Low cost a
nd easy to
build
Based on
an automo
ti
v
e
ignition co
il
• 2mA avera
ge c
• 12V battery urrent drain
operation
• Suitable fo
r fence run
s up to
1km
By JOHN CLARKE
Electric fences are often used on
farms to provide a temporary fenceline
or to add security to a fence that is in
disrepair. Their main advantages are:
(1) they are relatively cheap (compared
to permanent fences); (2) they are easily moved from place to place; and (3)
they are very effective when it comes
to containing livestock. Electric fences are also very effective for keeping
animals out of restricted areas, such
as keeping cattle out of one section in
a paddock that has been given over
to lucerne.
There are many different types of
electric fence controllers on the market today and each suits a particular
purpose. Some can operate fencelines
up to 100km long, while others are
only suitable for up to 1km lengths.
20 Silicon Chip
The main difference between one
controller and another is the amount
of power which can be delivered to
the fence.
Of course, the longer the fence
the greater the losses incurred along
its length. These losses are due to the
impedance of the wire, its capacitance
to ground and the load on the fence.
This load can be provided by a number
of factors, including long wet grass,
wet insulators and animals contacting
the wire. Consequently, considerable
power is required to overcome these
losses and maintain a satisfactory
voltage on the fence so that it can still
do its job over long distances.
On the other hand, the SILICON CHIP
Electric Fence Con
troller is only a
low-power unit capable of powering
Main Feat
ures
•
•
Complies w
ith Australia
n
Standard 3
129.1-199
3
Reverse p
olarity prote
ction
less than 1km of fence. It is designed
to operate from a rechargeable 12V
battery and this could range from a
1.2Ah (or larger) gel cell battery to a
conventional 12V car battery.
Ignition coil
Because it is only a low-power unit,
the circuit is built around an automotive ignition coil. This eliminates the
need for complicated inverter circuitry
and greatly simplifies the construct
ion. In addition, an ignition coil is
cheap compared to a purpose-wound
47
12V
D1
1N4004
470
16VW
2.7M
7
1.5k
6
4
B
C
E
B
C
8
IC1
7555
2
E
L1
IGNITION
COIL
6. 8
1W
F1
500MA
1
GND
Q1
BC327 E
3 2.2k B
Q2
MJ10012 C
C 100
B
5
0.1
0.68
VIEWED FROM BELOW
HT TO
FENCE
E
Fig.1: the circuit uses 7555
timer IC1 to pulse transistors
Q1 & Q2 on & off. Q2, in turn,
switches the ignition coil
which delivers a high-voltage
pulse to the fenceline.
ZD1
75V
1W
ZD2
75V
1W
ZD3
75V
1W
ELECTRIC FENCE CONTROLLER
transformer and this keeps the cost to
a minimum.
In fact, you don’t even have to purchase a new ignition coil. A second
hand unit scrounged from a wrecking
yard will do the job quite nicely. The
circuit has been designed to suit an
ignition coil intended for use with a
ballast resistor.
One problem in building an Electric
Fence is coming up with a suitable
waterproof enclosure to house the control circuitry. We solved this problem
by installing the circuit in a length of
90mm-diameter PVC tubing. End caps
were then used to seal the tube from
the weather. In addition, one endcap
holds the fence terminals while the
opposite endcap carries a cordgrip
grommet which clamps the twin lead
that goes to the battery.
The advantages of this type of enclosure are that it is completely weatherproof, is quite cheap compared to
other enclosures and can be mounted
using standard 90mm clamps. In fact,
you may even have some scrap 90mm
tubing in your garage which can be
pressed into service. All you have to
do is purchase a couple of endcaps
from your local hardware store and
the enclosure is complete.
How it works
Take a look now at Fig.1 – this shows
the complete circuit details for our
Electric Fence Controller. Apart from
the ignition coil, it uses just one IC, a
couple of transistors and a handful of
other minor components.
IC1 is a CMOS 7555 timer wired to
operate in astable mode. When power
is initially applied, its 0.68µF timing
capacitor (on pins 6 and 2) charges
via the 1.5kΩ and 2.7MΩ resistors
until it reaches 2/3Vcc (ie, 2/3rds the
supply voltage). At this point, pin 7
(previously open circuit) goes low and
the 0.68µF capacitor discharges via the
1.5kΩ resistor until its reaches 1/3Vcc.
Pin 7 now goes open circuit again
and so the timing capacitor charges
once more towards 2/3Vcc. This cycle
is repeated indefinitely while ever
power is applied to the circuit.
IC1’s pin 3 output follows pin 7; ie,
it is high while the timing capacitor
charges and low while it discharges.
As a result, pin 3 alternately goes high
for about 1.3 seconds and low for about
0.7ms. This very brief low period is
due to the relatively low value of the
resistor (1.5kΩ) connected between
pins 6 and 7 of IC1.
Pin 3 of IC1 is used to drive transistors Q1 and Q2. Q2 is an MJ10012
power Darlington transistor, designed
specifically as a coil driver in automotive ignition systems. It switches the
heavy currents through the coil and so
can be regarded as the workhorse of
Below: the ignition coil is firmly
secured to the PC board using cable
ties. Note that you don’t have to buy a
new coil – a secondhand coil obtained
from a wrecker’s yard will do the job
quite nicely. A plastic cap is fitted
to Darlington transistor Q2 to help
prevent unexpected shocks during
testing.
July 1995 21
coil. This voltage is about 5kV (across
a 1MΩ load) and is applied directly to
the fenceline.
As a result, a brief (0.7ms) high-tension pulse is applied to the fence approximately every 1.3 seconds. This
operation is basically similar to the
ignition system in a car, in which the
coil primary current is periodically
interrupted by a switching transistor
or a set of points. In a car, however, the
resulting HT voltage is used to fire the
selected sparkplug.
Despite the fact that Q2 is a very
rugged device, it is possible that it
could be damaged by excessive backEMF voltages from the coil. To guard
against this situation, three 75V 1W
zener diodes (D2-D4) have been connected in series across Q2. These limit
the collector voltage to 225V which is
well within its 500V rating.
Note that the circuit is designed to
deliver about 5kV by dint of a very
brief charging pulse through the coil.
In a normal automotive setup the coil
would deliver a much higher voltage
but this would not be desirable in this
case. Electric fences must comply with
the Australian Standard (AS 31291981) which sets strict limits on the
output voltage, pulse duration and
output impedance.
PARTS LIST
1 PC board, code 11306951,
171 x 79mm
1 adhesive label, 125 x 50mm
(Electric Fence Controller)
1 adhesive plastic label, 85mm
diameter (Fence Terminals)
1 adhesive plastic label, 85mm
diameter (Input Voltage)
1 230mm length of 90mm
diameter PVC tubing
2 90mm diameter end caps
1 12V automotive ignition coil
3 280 x 5mm cable ties
5 PC stakes
2 3AG PC board fuse clips
1 500mA 3AG fuse
2 large binding posts (1 red, 1
black); eg, DSE Cat. P-1731/33
2 5mm ID crimp eyelet terminals
1 TO-3 transistor insulating cap
2 3mm x 6mm-long screws, nuts
& star washers
1 red battery clip to suit
1 black battery clip to suit
1 cord grip grommet
1 brass EHT ignition coil
connector
1 2-metre length of twin red/
black automotive wire
1 60mm length of red heavy duty
hookup wire
1 60mm length of blue heavy
the circuit. Q2 also has a high voltage
rating (500V) to allow it to withstand
the high voltages developed across the
ignition coil primary.
The circuit works like this. When
pin 3 of IC1 is high, PNP transistor
Q1 is held off and so Q2 is also held
off. Conversely, when pin 3 pulses
low, Q1 switches on because base
current can now flow via its associated 2.2kΩ resistor. And when
duty hookup wire
1 120mm length of green heavy
duty hookup wire
1 60mm length of 240VAC
insulated wire
Semiconductors
1 7555, LMC555CN, TLC555
CMOS timer (IC1)
1 BC327 PNP transistor (Q1)
1 MJ10012 NPN Darlington
transistor (Q2)
1 1N4004 silicon diode (D1)
3 75V 1W zener diodes (D2-D4)
Capacitors
1 470µF 16VW PC electrolytic
1 0.68µF MKT polyester
1 0.1µF MKT polyester
Resistors (0.25W 1%)
1 2.7MΩ
1 100Ω
1 2.2kΩ
1 47Ω
1 1.5kΩ
1 6.8Ω 1W
Miscellaneous
1 12V 1.2Ah battery (minimum);
2 x 90mm mounting clamps (to
secure the controller to a fence
post); 1 x 2-metre long galvanised
ground stake; insulators; fence wire
(see text).
Power supply
Power for the circuit is derived
from a 12V battery via fuse F1, a
47Ω decoupling resistor and reverse
polarity protec
tion diode D1. The
resulting supply line is then filtered
using a 470µF electrolytic capacitor
to ensure that supply line glitches
cannot false-trigger IC1. In addition, a
0.1µF capacitor is connected to pin 5
of IC1 and this filters the trigger point
voltage to further guard against false
triggering.
The primary of the ignition coil is
supplied directly from the fuse via a
6.8Ω resistor. This resistor will limit
Q1 turns on, Q2 also turns on and
current flows through the primary of
the ignition coil (L1) via fuse F1 and
a 6.8Ω resistor.
When pin 3 of IC1 goes high again
(ie, after 0.7ms), Q1 and Q2 both turn
off and the current through the coil is
suddenly interrupted. As a result, the
collapsing magnetic field produces a
very high voltage across the high tension (HT) secondary winding of the
TABLE 1: RESISTOR COLOUR CODES
❏
❏
❏
❏
❏
❏
❏
No.
1
1
1
1
1
1
22 Silicon Chip
Value
2.7MΩ
2.2kΩ
1.5kΩ
100Ω
47Ω
6.8Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
red violet green brown
red red red brown
brown green red brown
brown black brown brown
yellow violet black brown
blue grey gold brown
5-Band Code (1%)
red violet black yellow brown
red red black brown brown
brown green black brown brown
brown black black black brown
yellow violet black gold brown
blue grey black silver brown
EHT TO
FENCE
GND TO
GROUND
STAKE
FENCE
TERMINALS
Fig.2 (left): install the parts on the PC board as
shown in this wiring diagram, making sure that
all polarised parts are correctly oriented. The EHT
connection to the coil is made using a brass EHT
ignition coil connector.
Fig.3 (below): check your PC board for defects by
comparing it against this full-size etching pattern
before installing any of the parts.
CABLE TIE
IGNITION
COIL
CABLE TIE
CABLE TIE
6. 8 W
47W
100
Q1
IC1
7555
F1
D1
2.7M
1.5k
12V
BATTERY
POSITIVE
Q2
2.2k
0.1
1
0.68
ZD1-ZD3
470uF
12V
BATTERY
NEGATIVE
July 1995 23
Solder the mounting nuts for Q2 to
their surrounding copper pads, as
shown here. This is necessary to
ensure reliable connections for the
collector of this transistor.
A brass ignition coil connector (soldered to a length of mains-rated cable) plugs
into the ignition coil output. The connections to the primary terminals are made
by terminating the leads using 5mm eyelet connectors.
the coil current until fuse F1 blows
if Q2 short-circuits between collec
tor and emitter. F1 also protects the
battery in the event of a circuit fault
by limiting the maximum current to
500mA.
The overall current drain of the circuit is about 2mA, so a fully charged
battery should be able to provide many
weeks of operation (depending on its
size). Note that the overall current
consumption has been kept low by
specifying a 7555 CMOS timer for IC1
rather than a standard 555 type. A 555
typically draws 10mA compared to
about 150µA for a 7555 and so would
increase the current consumption by
a factor of 6.
Construction
The control circuit is built on a PC
board coded 11306951 and measuring
171 x 79mm. This board, together with
the ignition coil mounted on it, fits
Two large binding posts are used to terminate the EHT
& ground connections from the control circuit. Note that
the two end caps should by sealed with silicone sealant to
prevent water damage to the circuitry housed inside the
plastic conduit.
24 Silicon Chip
neatly inside the 90mm plastic conduit. Fig.2 shows the assembly details
for the PC board.
Begin the assembly by installing
PC stakes at the five external wiring
points. This done, solder in all the
low profile components such as the
IC, diodes and resistors. Table 1 lists
the resistor colour codes but it is also
a good idea to check the resistor values using a digital multimeter before
soldering them into position.
Take care to ensure that the semiconductors are correctly oriented. In
particular, note that D1 (1N4004) faces
in the opposite direction to the three
zener diodes (ZD1-ZD3). Pin 1 of the
IC is adjacent to a notch in one end of
the plastic body – see Fig.2.
The battery is connected to the circuit via a length of twin
red/black automotive wire. Make sure that the battery
lead is firmly secured to the end cap using a cord grip
grommet. A 12V battery with a minimum rating of 1.2Ah
is required to power the fence controller.
Fig.4: the circuit
can be used to
power either
single or multiple
stands of fence
wire, or you can
use metallised
tape which is
specially designed
for the job. This is
generally white or
orange coloured
so that it is easily
seen.
INSULATOR
ELECTRIC FENCE
CONTROLLER
ELECTRIC
FENCE
HIGH
TENSION
CLAMPS
GROUND
POST
GALVANISED
GROUND
STAKE
12V
BATTERY
Now solder in the capacitors,
taking care to ensure that the 470µF
electrolytic is oriented as shown.
The two transistors are next – push
Q1 down onto the board as far as it
will comfortably go before soldering
its leads. Q2 is secured directly to the
board (ie, no insulating washer) using
3mm machine screws and nuts.
As well as securing Q2 in place,
these mounting screws and nuts also
connect Q2’s collector (ie, the case) to
FENCE TERMINALS
+
+
GROUND
HIGH TENSION
(TO EARTH
STAKE)
(TO FENCE)
a track on the PC board. To ensure reliable connections, use
star washers under the screw
heads and solder the nuts to
their surrounding copper pads.
This done, fit an insulating cap
to Q2 – this will prevent any
nasty shocks during the testing
procedure.
The fuse clips can now be
installed. Note that these each
have a little lug at one end to
retain the fuse after it has been
installed. These lugs must go
to the outside ends, otherwise
you will not be able to fit the
fuse.
The ignition coil is secured
to the PC board using three
cable ties, after which the leads
can be run to its primary terminals. These leads should be
terminated using 5mm eyelet
connectors to allow for easy
connection to the coil. Don’t
just crimp the connectors to
these leads – solder them as
well to ensure long-term reliability.
The ground lead can also
be installed at this stage. This
can be run using a 150mm-length of
medium-duty hookup wire.
The end caps will need to be drilled
for the fence terminals and the cord
grip grommet to secure the battery
leads. The locations of these holes
INPUT VOLTAGE
12VDC <at> 2mA AVERAGE
(BATTERY ONLY)
RED (+) BLACK (-)
Fig.5: here are the full-size artworks for the two end caps. These labels should be made from plastic Dynamark® material.
July 1995 25
ELECTRIC FENCE CONTROLLER
Fig.6: this full-size artwork can be used to make the main identifying label that’s
attached to the side of the conduit.
can be determined by fitting the two
endcap labels and then using them as
drilling templates.
Large binding posts are used for
the two fence terminals (red for the
EHT output, black for ground). Mount
these in position, then install the high
tension lead. This must be run using
a 90mm-length of mains-rated cable.
One end is soldered to the EHT binding
post, while the other end is attached
to a brass ignition coil connector and
plugged into the ignition coil output.
Similarly, connect the ground lead
to the ground (black) binding post,
then install the twin battery cable (red
to posi
tive, black to negative). The
other end of this cable is fitted with
large (30A) battery clips.
Testing
Now for the smoke test. Apply power and check that there is 12V between
pins 1 and 8 of IC1. If all is well, you
should hear a short click from the coil
at 1.3-second intervals.
Stay away from the EHT output from
the coil and avoid touching the PC
board assembly during this test. This
FROM
NEW N CHIP
O
SILIC
The connections to the battery can
be made using heavy-duty clamps, or
suitable screw terminals can be used.
circuit can deliver a “bite” which is
exactly what it is designed to do.
If everything works OK, disconnect
the battery leads and carefully slide the
assembly into its plastic housing. This
done, feed the battery cable through
the hole in its end cap, secure it using
a cordgrip grommet and reconnect the
leads to the PC board.
The board assembly will be held in
position when the end caps are fitted
and, generally, this should be sufficient. However, if you wish the board
to be held even more securely, wrap
a small amount of foam rubber
around the top of the coil so that
the assembly is a tight fit within
the conduit.
Finally, use a suitable silicone
sealant (eg, Silastic®) to waterproof all joints around the end
caps, the fence terminals and the
power cord entry point.
Installation
Where possible, the controller should be installed inside a
building (eg, a shed) so that it
is protected from the weather.
If used outdoors, it should be
mounted on a fixed structure (eg, a
fence post) where it is free from the
risk of mechanical damage. Use 90mm
clamps to secure the controller in
position.
The controller should be fitted with
a separate earth elec
trode and this
should not be connected to any other
earthing device. Fig.4 shows a typical
installation. Note that all fence wiring
should be kept well away from any
electrical or telephone cables and from
radio and TV antennas.
A bare metal conductor can be used
for the fence wire. Alternatively, you
can used metallised tape which is
specially designed for the job. This is
available from farm equipment suppliers and is generally white or orange
coloured so that it is easily seen.
Do not install the unit in any location where people are likely to come
into inadvertent contact with it. In
addition, any installation should be
clearly identified with warning signs
posted at intervals not exceeding 90
metres. These signs should carry the
words “ELECTRIC FENCE” in block
letters no less than 50mm high. SC
20 Electronic
Projects For Cars
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