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Build this satellite
TV receiver; Pt.2
This satellite TV receiver is based on a prealigned module. By combining it with a dish
antenna & an LNB, you can receive many of
the satellite TV signals (both C & K-band) that
are available in this part of the world.
By JOHN CLARKE
Last month, we looked at the basics
of satellite TV reception and described
the equipment needed for a complete
ground station. As shown in Fig.7 of
that issue, a ground station consists of
a parabolic dish antenna, a low noise
block (LNB) downconverter, a satellite
receiver and a TV set.
The satellite receiver is the one
item amongst this equipment that can
be easily constructed at home. This
particular unit is based on a pre-built
receiver module that comes fully
aligned. All you have to do is add a few
12 Silicon Chip
ancillary circuits plus a power supply
and install the bits in a case.
In operation, the receiver is used
to tune the signals from the LNB.
What happens is that the incoming
satellite signal is first collected by the
dish antenna and directed to a dipole
antenna in the LNB via a waveguide,
after which it is amplified and downconverted.
Downconversion simply refers to
the fact that the incoming satellite
frequency (either in the range from
3.7-4.2GHz or 12.25-12.75GHz) is
converted to a much more manageable
signal in the range from 950-1450MHz.
It is this range of frequencies that are
tuned by our satellite receiver.
Fig.8 shows the block diagram of the
pre-built receiver module. It utilises a
tuner module which initially amplifies
and filters the IF signal from the LNB.
This signal is then fed to a mixer stage
where it is mixed with the signal from
a varicap tuned local oscillator for
second conversion to 479.5MHz. The
“tuned” signal is then fed via a bandpass filter and two further amplifier
stages to a PLL demodulator.
This demodulator stage produces
a “baseband” output which contains
both video and audio information.
Composite video and audio output signals are then recovered using separate
demodulator stages. These signals can
be fed direct to a video monitor and
audio amplifier.
In addition, the composite video and
audio output signals are fed to an RF
TUNER IN METAL BOX
INPUT
FROM
LNB
AMP
AMP
AMP
MIXER
AMP
FILTER
BASEBAND
PLL
DEMODULATOR
BP
FILTER
DC
AMP
RF
MODULATOR
AGC
DETECTOR
VCO
PLL
DEMODULATOR
5MHz-8MHz
RECEIVER MODULE
14/18VDC
TO LNB
VIDEO
TUNING
AGC
+18V
Block diagram
Fig.9 shows the block diagram of
the complete receiver. The pre-built
module forms the heart of the design,
with the extra circuitry all on an auxiliary PC board which you assemble
yourself.
This second board carries the IF
(video) and audio subcarrier tuning
controls, the band switching, the
LNB polarisation circuitry, the skew
controls, and the metering and power
supply circuitry. The two boards are
14/
18VDC
9501450MHz
then linked using ribbon cable and
connectors.
The rear panel of the receiver carries
an IF input socket (to accept the signal
from the LNB) plus the following outputs: VHF Out (this goes to the antenna
socket of a TV receiver), Audio Out,
Video Out and Skew Out. A small
slider switch is also provided so that
either channel 3 or channel 4 can be
selected for VHF Out.
To cater for the different equipment available on the market, we
have included both “dual polarity
switching” and mechanical feedhorn
“skew” functions in the receiver.
Let’s take a closer look at what these
terms mean.
RECEIVER
MODULE
VIDEO
VIDEO
AUDIO
AUDIO
OUTPUTS
+5V
LNB
POL
+18V
240V
A
N
VIDEO
TUNE
VR4
AGC
RF
OUTPUT
AUDIO
OUTPUT
As with terrestrial TV signals,
satellite TV signals are polarised to
minimise interference between adjacent frequencies. This means that
the dipole antenna in the LNB must
be oriented to match the polarity of
the incoming signal – ie, horizontal
for horizontally-polarised signals and
vertical for vertically-polarised signals
(see Fig.10).
Although this could be achieved
by physically rotating the LNB, it is
hardly a convenient solution. Fortunately, the answer to this problem
is quite simple and two methods are
commonly employed.
The first method involves fitting the
LNB with two dipole antennas mounted 90° apart – one horizontal and the
other vertical. Either one of these
dipoles can then be selected at will
(using electronic switching) to match
the signal polarisa
tion. In practice,
RF
RF
INPUT
VIDEO
OUTPUT
+5V
Fig.8: block diagram of the receiver module. The IF signal from the LNB is
amplified & then mixed with the signal from a VCO for second conversion to
479.5MHz. The “tuned” signal is then fed via a bandpass filter & two further
amplifier stages to a PLL demodulator. Composite video & audio output signals
are then recovered using separate demodulator stages.
modulator stage. This then provides an
output which can be fed to the antenna
output of a conventional TV receiver
tuned to either channel 3 or channel 4.
VIDEO
DEMODULATOR
AUDIO
TUNE
VR3
Fig.9: this is the
block diagram for the
complete receiver. It’s
based on the pre-built
receiver module & adds
in the necessary power
supply circuitry, the
tuning controls, a signal
strength meter & the
skew control circuitry.
IC2
POWER
SUPPLY
+18V
S3
PULSE
GENERATOR
E
REG1,D5,
D6
+14V
SKEW
OUTPUT
SIGNAL
METER
SKEW
VR1
June 1995 13
HORIZONTAL POLARISATION
LEFT HAND CIRCULAR POLARISATION
Fig.10: satellite TV signals
can be either horizontally
polarised or vertically
polarised, just like
terrestrial TV signals. In
addition, some satellite
signals on C-band are
circularly polarised &
these are best received
using a servo-controlled
feedhorn.
VERTICAL POLARISATION
RIGHT HAND CIRCULAR POLARISATION
this is achieved by selecting between
two DC voltages (either 14V or 18V)
and feeding this back up the coaxial
cable to the LNB, where the dipoles
are selected using diode switching.
This “dual-polarity” type of LNB
is used primarily for receiving linear signals (ie, signals that are either
horizontal
ly or vertically polarised)
on both C-band and K-band.
However, a complication arises
when we wish to also receive circularly polarised signals. These signals
can be either lefthand or righthand
circularly polarised (see Fig.10) and, in
This pre-built receiver module
carries an outboard tuner
module & forms the heart of
the Satellite TV Receiver.
14 Silicon Chip
this part of the world, are transmitted
only on C-band.
To cater for these signals, a servo-controlled feedhorn is often used.
This type of feedhorn employs a digital proportional servo motor which
rotates a probe through an angle of
about 200° inside the waveguide. This
probe is mutually coupled to a dipole
antenna and is oriented using the skew
controls for best signal pick-up.
In operation, the servo motor requires +5V and ground connections,
plus a continuous “pulse” (Skew Out)
signal. The servo motor then “skews”
to an angle that’s dependent on the
width of the pulses.
The Skew switch and Skew Adjust control on the front panel set
the pulse width and thus the angle
of the probe in the feedhorn. Either
horizontal (H) or vertical (V) orientation is initially selected using the
Skew switch, while the Skew adjust
control allows the probe to be rotated
to suit the signal.
Circuit details
Fig.11 shows the final circuit details
of the Satellite TV Receiver.
The receiver module is nominally
designed to accept centre-tapped 23V
and 15V AC supply rails but we’ve
simplified the supply arrangements
to take advantage of a readily-available transformer. As shown in Fig.11,
power is derived from the 0-17.5V
secondary of an M-6672 mains trans
former and this drives a bridge rectifier
consisting of diodes D1-D4.
The resulting 25V (nominal) DC rail
is then applied to 3300µF and 2200µF
filter capacitors and to separate 18V
and 12V regulator circuits on the receiver module. Note that the input to
the 12V regulator is fed via an external
6.8Ω 5W dropping resistor. This measure is necessary to reduce dissipation
in this regulator.
The 18V regulated output appears
at pin 17 of the module and is applied
directly to one terminal of switch S3
(LNB) and to 3-terminal regulator
A
F1
500mA
POWER
S1
T1
6672
D1-D4
4x1N4004
6. 8
5W 8
0V
6
240VAC
OUTPUTS
RF
18V REG
18
17.5V
14
N
4
BASE PLATE
AUDIO
18V 17
OUT
20
RECEIVER
MODULE
13
12
E
VIDEO
12V REG
AGC
C
IN
+18V
VIDEO
TUNE
VR4
10k
5V 15
OUT
16
10
25VW
REG1
7815
GND
D5
D6
OUT
10
16VW
2x1N4004
+5V
LNB
S3
TO LNB
14/18V
POLARISATION
AUDIO
TUNE
VR3
10k
11
18V
14V
K
BAND
S4
120
10
470
5
SIGNAL
METER
8
IC2a
6 LM358
4
VR5
1k
7
2
1
IC2b
250uA
2.2k
3
1k
B
E
C
VIEWED FROM
BELOW
A
POWER
LED1
ZERO SET
VR6
2k
Q1
BC328 E
B
10k
C
10k
H
SKEW
S2
V
2.2k
SKEW
ADJUST
VR1
10k
D7
1N4148
K
2.2ms
SET
VR2
20k
+5V
10
8.2k
7
150k
4
3 100
IC1
555
6
2
I GO
8
1
SKEW
OUT
GND
0.15
SATELLITE TV RECEIVER
Fig.11: this is the complete circuit for the Satellite TV Receiver. Q1 & 555 timer
IC1 provide the skew pulses, while IC2a buffers the AGC line to drive the signal
strength meter. IC2b & VR6 provide a no-signal DC offset adjustment so that the
meter can be zeroed, while VR5 sets the meter sensitivity.
REG1. The resulting 15V output from
REG1 is then fed to the 14V terminal
of S3 via dropping diodes D5 and D6.
As a result, S3 selects either 18V or
14V and feeds the selected voltage to
the LNB. In the 14V position, the vertical dipole is selected. Conversely, in
the 18V position, the horizontal dipole
is selected.
IC1 forms the heart of the skew
control circuit. This 555 timer is
wired in astable mode and produces
pulse widths ranging from 0.65ms
(for vertical polarisation) to 2.2ms (for
horizontal polarisation). The pulse
repetition rate is about 66Hz.
Looking at this more closely, the
0.15µF timing capacitor on pins 6 and
2 is charged via D7, potentiometer
VR1 and its parallel 8.2kΩ resistor, a
2.2kΩ resistor and either Q1 or VR2.
Switch S2 provides the horizontal and
vertical skew control. When “H” is
selected, Q1’s base is pulled high and
so the transistor is off and the 0.15µF
capacitor charges via trimpot VR2 to
give a nominal 2.2ms charging time.
During this time, IC1’s pin 3 output
is high.
Conversely, when S2 is in the “V”
position, Q1 is on (since its base is now
pulled down to 2.5V). As a result, VR2
is bypassed and the timing capacitor
can charge in just 0.65ms.
When the voltage across the timing
capacitor reaches 2/3Vcc (ie, 2/3 of the
supply voltage), pin 7 of IC1 switches
low and the capacitor discharges via a
150kΩ resistor until its voltage drops
to 1/3Vcc. During this period, the output at pin 3 is also low. At the end of
the discharge period, pin 7 (and pin 3)
switches high again and so the cycle
is repeated indefinitely for as long as
power is applied.
VR1 is there to provide fine adjustment of the skew. This pot allows the
user to adjust the skew to obtain the
best reception.
The +5V supply rail for this circuit
comes from a regulated output on the
receiver module. This supply rail is
also applied to LED 1 via a 470Ω current limiting resistor to provide power
on/off indication.
Signal strength meter
The AGC (automatic gain control)
line from the receiver module is used
to provide a measure of the tuned
signal strength. This line drives the
signal meter via op amp IC2a which
is wired as a unity gain buffer stage.
In addition, the no-signal DC offset
of the AGC line is nulled using trimpot
VR6. This trimpot applies a preset voltage (derived from the 5V rail) to pin 3
of unity gain buffer IC2b, which then
drives the negative side of the meter
via trimpot VR5.
In practice, VR6 is adjusted during
the calibration procedure so that the
meter reads zero under no signal conditions. It simply sets IC2b’s output to
the same level as IC2a’s output, so that
0V appears across the meter.
VR5 sets the meter sensitivity. It is
adjusted so that the meter reads fullscale on a powerful signal.
June 1995 15
16 Silicon Chip
VR2
23 +5V
22 GND
21 OUT
10uF
150k
1
VR3
6
8
4
S4
D2 D4 D6
S3
6. 8
5W
S2
D1 D3 D5
10uF
REG1
7815
10uF
25VW
VR1
2.2k
10k
10k
8.2k
0.15
D7
1
K
A
LED1
Fig.12(b): check your board carefully against this full-size etching pattern before installing any of the parts.
VR6
Fig.12(a): install the parts on the control board as shown here, taking care to ensure that all polarised parts
are correctly oriented. Note that regulator REG1 is installed from the copper side of the PC board.
20
19
18
17
16
15
14
13
12
11
100
Q1
1k
IC2
LM358
AGC
470
AC IN
IC1
555
2.2k
120
LNB
144/18V
METER +
METER -
VR5
10uF
VR4
VR3 and VR4 provide the audio and
video tuning controls. These 10-turn
potentiometers are respectively wired
across the +5V and +18V outputs of the
receiver module and provide variable
DC tuning voltages for varicap diodes
in the tuner module.
Finally, switch S4 selects between
C and K band operation. When S4 is
open, pin 11 of the receiver module
is pulled high by an on-board pullup resistor and the unit operates on
the C-band. Conversely, when S4 is
closed, pin 11 of the receiver module
is pulled low and the unit operates on
the K-band.
Construction
The Satellite TV Receiver is built
into a plastic case measuring 260 x 190
x 80mm. This easily accommodates
the power transformer, the receiver
module and an add-on control PC
board coded 02305951. This add-on
board carries all the ancillary circuitry
described above.
Fig.12 shows the parts layout on the
control board. Begin the assembly by
installing PC stakes at the following
wiring points: the skew outputs (OUT,
GND & +5V), the AC inputs, the AGC
and LNB outputs, and the meter outputs. This done, install the resistors
and capacitors, followed by the ICs,
diodes and the transistor.
Table 1 shows the resistor colour
codes but it is also a good idea to
check each value using a digital multimeter, as the colours can sometimes
be difficult to decipher. Note that the
6.8Ω 5W resistor should be mounted
about 2mm above the board surface to
allow the air to circulate beneath it for
cooling (this resistor runs hot).
Note also that D7 is a small signal
diode while diodes D1-D6 are all 1A
rectifier types.
The trimpots can be installed now.
Take care to ensure that the correct
value is installed at each position (VR2
= 20kΩ; VR5 = 1kΩ; and VR6 = 2kΩ).
PARTS LIST
1 satellite receiver module
(Av-Comm)
1 vented plastic instrument case,
260 x 190 x 80mm
1 PC board, code 02305951, 233
x 51mm
1 self-adhesive front panel label,
254 x 73mm
1 self-adhesive rear panel label
254 x 73mm
1 aluminium baseplate, 1.5 x 220
x 90mm
1 6672 30V 1A transformer (T1)
(DSE M-6672)
1 level meter, 250µA FSD (DSE
Q-2100)
1 10kΩ 24mm PC-mount
potentiometer (VR1)
1 20kΩ (203) miniature vertical
trimpot (VR2)
2 10kΩ multi-turn potentiometers
(VR3,VR4)
1 1kΩ (102) miniature vertical
trimpot (VR5)
1 2kΩ (202) miniature vertical
trimpot (VR6)
1 15mm knob with position marker
2 15mm knobs without position
markers
1 M-205 panel mount fuseholder
1 500mA M-205 fuse (F1)
1 mains cord with moulded plug
1 cordgrip grommet to suit mains
cord
1 SPDT mains rocker switch (S1)
3 SPDT right-angle PC mounting
switches (S2-S4) (DSE P-7686)
1 3mm LED bezel
5 6mm PC board standoffs
1 9mm standoff
1 10-way pin header socket
1 5-way pin header socket
1 6.5mm stereo panel socket
3 solder lugs
1 300mm length of green/yellow
mains wire
1 300mm length of brown mains
wire
1 50mm length of 10-way rainbow
cable (2.54mm spacing)
3 500mm lengths of different
coloured medium-duty hook-up
wire
1 200mm length of 0.8mm tinned
copper wire
9 PC stakes
6 cable ties
The resistance codes for these pots are
shown in the parts list.
Next, install the Skew Adjust pot
(VR1), switches S2-S4 and LED 1. The
LED should be mounted at full lead
length so that it can later be pushed
into its bezel on the front panel. Watch
the orientation of the LED – the anode
lead is the longer of the two.
The two multi-turn pots (VR3 &
Semiconductors
1 555 timer (IC1)
1 LM358 dual op amp (IC2)
1 BC328 PNP transistor (Q1)
1 7815 1A 3-terminal regulator
(REG1)
6 1N4004 1A diodes (D1-D6)
1 1N4148 signal diode (D7)
1 3mm green LED (LED1)
Capacitors
1 10µF 25VW PC electrolytic
3 10µF 16VW PC electrolytic
1 0.15µF MKT polyester
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
1 150kΩ
1 1kΩ
2 10kΩ
1 120Ω
1 8.2kΩ
1 100Ω
2 2.2kΩ
1 6.8Ω 5W WW
Miscellaneous
Heatshrink tubing, machine
screws, nuts, lockwashers.
TABLE 1: RESISTOR COLOUR CODES
❏
No.
❏ 1
❏ 2
❏ 1
❏ 2
❏ 1
❏ 1
❏ 1
Value
150kΩ
10kΩ
8.2kΩ
2.2kΩ
1kΩ
120Ω
100Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
brown green yellow brown
brown black orange brown
grey red red brown
red red red brown
brown black red brown
brown red brown brown
brown black brown brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown green black orange brown
brown black black red brown
grey red black brown brown
red red black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
brown red black black brown
brown black black black brown
June 1995 17
LNB 14V/18V
TUNER
AGC
METER+
METER-
METER
BREAK CONNECTION
TO PCB
20
RECEIVER
MODULE
11
10
8
6
4
2
REAR
PANEL
FRONT
PANEL
8
6
4
ALUMINIUM PLATE
SKEW
OUT
17.5V
REG1
7815
23
POWER
TRANSFORMER
T1
21
22
EARTH
LUG
F1
CORD
GRIP
GROMMET
ACTIVE
BROWN
0V
EARTH
GRN/YEL
EARTH
LUG
23
22
21
NEUTRAL
BLUE
EARTH
ACTIVE BROWN
Fig.13: the transformer is mounted in the case on an aluminium plate which
must be securely earthed – see text. Be sure to use mains-rated cable for all
mains wiring & cover all exposed terminals with heatshrink tubing.
VR4) are connected to the board via
short lengths of tinned copper wire. At
this stage, just install 25mm lengths of
wire into their terminal holes on the
PC board but leave the pots to one side
for the time being.
The 3-terminal regulator (REG1) is
installed on the underside of the PC
board (see photo), so that it can later be
bolted to an aluminium plate. This aluminium plate is fastened to the base of
the case and, in addition to supporting
the power transformer, also provides
heatsinking for the three regulators on
the receiver module.
Before installing the regulator, bend
18 Silicon Chip
AC IN
its leads through 90° so that they mate
with its mounting holes in PC board.
This done, push the leads through the
board (from the copper side) and adjust
the regulator so that its top surface sits
about 1mm below the bottom of the
PC board, then solder its leads – see
Fig.13.
The PC board assembly can now
be completed by soldering a 50mm
length of 10-way rainbow cable to
points 11-20, followed by three 50mm
lengths of hook-up wire to points 4, 6
& 8. The free ends of these leads are
then terminated in pin header sockets.
This simply involves lightly soldering
POWER
S1
ACTIVE
ACTIVE
each lead to a pin and then pushing
the pins down into the socket until
they lock in position.
Take care when connecting the leads
from points 4, 6 & 8 to their header
socket. Assuming the use of a 5-way
header socket, these leads should go to
the two outside pins and to the centre
pin, so that they mate with points 4, 6
& 8 on the receiver module.
Case preparation
The next step is to drill the case so
accept the various hardware items.
This job can be made easy by first affixing the front and rear panel adhesive
labels to the plastic panels. This done,
the labels can then be used as drilling
templates.
Don’t try to drill large holes in these
panels. Instead, it’s best to first drill a
small pilot hole and then enlarge this
carefully using a tapered reamer until
the relevant part is an exact fit.
The cutouts for the meter and power
switch can be made by first drilling
a series of small holes around the
inside perimet
ers of the rectangles.
The centre pieces are then knocked
out and the cutouts filed to the correct
shape. Both the meter and the switch
should be a tight fit in these cutouts.
The rectangular holes in the rear panel
for the two slider switches are made
in similar fashion.
The hole positions for the earth
screw, fuseholder and mains cord
grommet are indicated by crosses on
the righthand side of the rear panel.
Note that the hole for the cordgrip
grommet should be carefully shaped
to suit, so that the grommet will
later securely clamp the mains cord
without any risk of it pulling out of
the panel.
The adhesive labels for the front and
rear panels are made from aluminium
and must be earthed to ensure electrical safety. Make sure that the earth
screws make electrical contact with
the panels by scraping away the top
layer to expose the aluminium around
the hole.
Once the holes have been drilled, fit
the front panel to the control board by
slipping it over the threaded bushes
of the toggle switches and the Skew
Adjust pot. Note that the latter is secured using a nut on either side of the
panel. The control board, along with
the front panel, is then mounted in the
case on five 6mm-long standoffs. These
standoffs in turn sit on integral mounting bushes moulded into the base and
the whole assembly is secured using
self-tapping screws.
If necessary, use adhesive tape to
hold the standoffs in position while
the control board is positioned over
them and the screws installed.
The power switch, signal strength
meter and multi-turn pots can now be
mounted on the front panel, along with
the earth solder lug. Use a roundhead
screw and two starwashers (one under
the head of the screw and the other under the nut) to secure the earth lug and
make sure that the assembly is tight.
Finally, check that the front panel is
indeed electrically connected to the
earth lug by checking for continuity
with your multimeter.
The two multi-turn pots are connected to the control board via short lengths of
tinned copper wire, while the 5W wirewound resistor in the foreground should
be mounted about 2mm above the board surface so that the air can circulate
beneath it for cooling. Note that this resistor normally runs hot.
The existing link between the LNB terminal on the tuner module (ie, the one
nearest the rear panel) & the receiver board must be removed. This can be done
by cutting the top of the link with a pair of side cutters & bending it down onto
the PC board so that it is out of the way.
Next, install the LED bezel and push
the LED into it (bend the LED leads at
right angles). The front panel assembly
can then be completed by wiring VR3,
VR4 and the signal strength meter. A
small amount of epoxy adhesive can
be used to secure the meter.
Moving now to the rear panel, begin
by installing the fuseholder and the
earth lug in their designated positions.
As before, use star washers under the
head of the earth screw and under the
nut, and use your multimeter to check
for electrical continuity between the
lug and the panel after the screw has
been tightened.
This done, the mains cord can be
passed through its access hole and
securely clamped using the cordgrip
grommet. Strip back the outer sheath of
the mains cord by about 80mm so that
you are ready to make the necessary
connections later on.
The receiver module (with its attached tuner) can now be attached to
the rear panel. It is fastened by doing
up the nuts on the two RF sockets (IF
IN & VHF OUT) and by installing a
small screw and nut adjacent to the
audio and video RCA sockets. Check
that the two slider switches operately
freely when this has been done, then
fit the 6.5mm stereo panel socket
(Skew Out).
Drilling the baseplate
The aluminium baseplate measures
220 x 90mm and is positioned so that
June 1995 19
The back of the pre-built receiver module is secured to the rear panel via the RF
input & output sockets, while the front is supported on the aluminium baseplate
by a 9mm standoff & by the heatsink for the 3-terminal regulators. Use cable ties
to secure the mains wiring.
its front edge lines up with the rear
of the control board. You will have to
mark out and drill four or five holes
in this baseplate so that it can be
fastened using self-tapping screws to
the integral mounting posts moulded
into the case.
After drilling these holes, temporarily fasten the baseplate using a couple
of screws, then install the rear panel
The rear panel of the receiver carries an input socket to accept the signal from
the LNB plus the following outputs: VHF Out, Audio Out, Video Out & Skew
Out. A small slider switch is also provided so that either channel 3 or channel 4
can be selected for VHF Out.
20 Silicon Chip
with its attached receiver module.
The following mounting holes
should now be marked on the base
plate: (1) two holes for the heatsink
fitted to the regulators; (2) a hole for
regulator REG1; (3) a corner mounting
hole for the receiver module at front
right (ie, near the 8-pin IC); (4) two
holes for the power transformer (use
the transformer as a template); and
(5) a hole for an earth solder lug – see
Fig.13.
The baseplate can now be removed
from the case and the various holes
drilled. This done, smear the mating
surface of the heatsink with heatsink
compound and bolt it to the baseplate using machine screws, nuts and
washers. Similarly, secure the power
transformer and the earth solder lug
to the baseplate.
The front corner of the receiver module is supported on a 9mm standoff
and is fastened with a screw, nut and
lockwasher.
The entire assembly – consisting of
the baseplate, trans
former, receiver
module and rear panel – can now be
installed in the case. Note that it may
be necessary to temporarily loosen
the mounting screws for the control
board so that the baseplate can be slid
under REG1. Use self-tapping screws
to secure the baseplate to the integral
standoffs moulded into the base and be
sure to re-tighten the mounting screws
for the control board.
It will be necessary to drill a hole
through the bottom of the case to
install the mounting screw for REG1.
Measure out and mark the position of
this hole carefully prior to drilling, to
ensure that it is directly in line with
the mounting hole in the baseplate.
Note that REG1 can be directly bolted
to the baseplate without an insulating
washer.
Final wiring
Refer to Fig.13 for the final wiring
details. Take care with the mains wiring – the Active (brown) lead from
the mains cord goes to the fuseholder,
while the Neutral (blue) lead goes direct to one of the transformer primary
terminals. The other side of the fuse
holder goes to the power switch (S1),
with a further lead then running from
S1 back to the remaining transformer
primary terminal.
Be sure to use mains-rated 250VAC
cable for the connections to the power
switch and for the mains earth wiring.
In addition, heatshrink tubing should
be used to cover the fuseholder and the
mains switch connections – see photo.
This involves slipping suitable
lengths of heatshrink tubing over the
leads before they are soldered to these
parts. After soldering the leads, push
the heatshrink tubing over the switch
and fuseholder and shrink it down
with a hot-air gun.
Similarly, sleeve the transformer
primary connections with small dia
meter heatshrink tubing to avoid the
possibility of accidental electric shock
from otherwise exposed terminals.
The Earth lead (green/yellow) from
the mains cord connects directly
to the earth lug on the aluminium
baseplate. Additional earth leads are
then run from this point to the earth
lugs on the front and rear panels. Use
cable ties to secure the mains wiring,
so that there is no danger of contact
with low voltage circuitry should a
lead come adrift.
Medium-duty hook-up wire can be
used for the low-voltage wiring. This
involves the transformer secondary
Where To Buy The Parts
A short-form kit for the Satellite TV Receiver is available from Av-Comm
Pty Ltd. This kit (Cat K-1000) is priced at $150 & includes the receiver
module, an etched PC board (code 02305951), two 10-turn 10kΩ pots, the
aluminium baseplate (undrilled) & the front & rear panel labels. The case,
meter, power transformer, control-board components & other minor parts
are not included & will have to be purchased separately from parts retailers.
In addition, Av-Comm is offering the following packages to SILICON CHIP
readers at special prices:
(1) For K-band reception: 1.6-metre dish with ground mount stand, dual-polarity LNB, 25 metres RG-6/U coaxial cable & K-1000 short-form Satellite
TV Receiver kit (see above). Price $684.00.
(2) For C-band reception: 3-metre dish with tracking mount, servo-controlled feedhorn, 20°K (noise temperature) C-band LNB, 25 metres
RG-6/U coaxial cable & K-1000 short-form Satellite TV Receiver kit (see
above). Price: $2092.00.
For further information, contact Av-Comm Pty Ltd, 198 Condamine
St (PO Box 225), Balgowlah, NSW 2093. Phone (02) 949 7417; fax (02)
949 7095.
connections, three connections to the
Skew Out socket, and two connections
from the control board to the tuner
module (LNB & AGC). Twist the leads
to the Skew Out socket together and
lace the leads to the tuner module
to keep them tidy – see photos. The
transformer secondary leads should
also be twisted together.
Note that the existing connection
between the LNB terminal on the tuner
module (ie, the one nearest the rear
panel) and the receiver board must be
broken. This can be done by cutting
the wire with a pair of side cutters.
Finally, connect the header sockets
to the receiver module and fit the
knobs to the control pots.
Test & adjustment
Before applying power, go back over
your work carefully and check that
all the wiring is correct. In particular,
check the mains wiring carefully and
check that the front and rear panels
have been properly earthed.
Now apply power and check that
the power LED lights. If it does, check
the output voltages from REG1 and
the three regulators on the receiver
module.
REG1 should have an output of 15V,
while the other three regulators should
have outputs of 18V, 12V and 5V (you
should get readings within 10% of
these nominal voltages).
Note that the 14V rail for the LNB (ie,
the cathode of D6) will not necessarily
read 14V until a load is connected to
this output. Assuming that all is well,
adjust trimpot VR6 so that the meter
reads zero.
If an oscilloscope is available, use
the following proce
dure to adjust
trimpot VR2 to obtain the correct skew
pulse widths:
(1) Connect the oscilloscope probe to
the skew output (pin 21 on the control
board);
(2) Set the Skew Adjust pot (VR1) to
mid-position and the Skew switch (S2)
to horizontal (H);
(3) Adjust VR2 until the skew pulses
are 2.2ms wide;
(4) Flick the Skew switch to vertical
(V) and check that the skew pulses are
now 0.65ms wide
If you don’t have an oscilloscope,
use the following procedure to adjust
VR2 instead:
(1) set VR1 to mid-position, S2 to “H”
and temporarily connect a 47kΩ pullup resistor between the skew output
and the +5V rail;
(2) Connect a multimeter between the
skew output and ground;
(3) Adjust VR2 for a DC reading of
618mV (note: this is an average reading
of the skew pulses)
(4) Flick S2 to “V” and check that the
meter now reads about 200mV DC;
(5) Remove the 47kΩ pull-up resistor.
That completes the adjustment procedure. The unit can now be tested for
proper operation by setting it up with a
dish, an LNB and a TV set. We’ll cover
that procedure and describe how the
SC
unit is used next month.
June 1995 21
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