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LIGHTNING
DISTANCE METER
Have you ever wondered just how close that
bolt of lightning was? Well, don’t wonder
about it; check it out with this Lightning
Distance Meter instead. The device uses
common components & measures flash
distances up to 19 kilometres.
By DARREN YATES
There are many situations where it
can be useful to know the distance to
an approaching thunderstorm. Perhaps you’re just the curious type who
likes to keep an eye on the weather or
maybe you have a far more practical
reason for wanting to know, such
as when you’re ploughing a field or
you’re out on the footy oval or golf
course. Being caught out in the open
in the middle of a thunderstorm is not
a pleasant experience.
Of course, you could always abandon the game when the first lightning
flash appears or you could use the old
“1001” rule that you learnt as a kid.
40 Silicon Chip
Whenever you saw a flash of lightning,
you would count 1001, 1002, 1003
and so on, and when you heard the
thunder you divided the last digit by
five to determine how many miles
away the “bolt” was. Armed with this
information, you could then elect to
do a runner when the lightning got too
close for comfort – five miles if you
were chicken or five feet if you were
more adventurous!
Unfortunately, in this metricated
age, most youngsters don’t know
what a mile is! So unless we apply a
metric conversion to the 1001 rule, we
either run the risk of getting zapped
or abandoning a perfectly good game
for nothing.
Alternatively, we could apply a
more scientific approach to the problem. The answer is this Lightning
Distance Meter. With a bit of eye, ear
and hand coordination, you can work
out the distance to a lightning flash
within a kilometre of so.
There’s nothing complicated about
using the unit. Apart from the power
switch, there are just three pushbutton
controls and these are labelled Start,
Reset and Stop. In addition, the front
panel carries a row of LEDs and these
are numbered from 1-10.
The principle of operation is quite
simple. The speed of sound in air is
about 1207km/h, which is equivalent
to 1km every 3 seconds. So all the
circuit does is light each LED in turn
at 3-second intervals when the Start
button is pressed. To use the unit, you
simply press the Start button when you
see the lightning flash and then press
the Stop button when you hear the
thunder. The LED that’s lit then gives
the distance to the flash (eg, if LED 6
is lit, then the distance is 6km).
D1
1N4004
S4
+6V
RESET
S3
680k
IC1
555
2
2.2
16VW
VR1
500k
8
6
1
14
CLK
4
IC2
4017
1
2
1k
6
5
7
6
100k
1k
A
A
K
6
S
C
IC3a
5 4013 2
D
Q
R
4
1k
A
K
13
8
6V
3
9
11
1k
A
A
K
K
8
9
1k
1k
A
A
K
K
CE
5
1
1k
1k
A
A
K
4
10
1k
1k
A
LEDS 1-9
3
7
2
4
100
16VW
15
RST
12
CO
16
3
.01
LED 10
K
K
K
+6V
14
13
Q
IC3b
7
S
R
START
S1
8
STOP
S2
D2
1N4148
.01
10
A
100k
K
100k
LIGHTNING DISTANCE METER
Fig.1: the circuit uses 555 timer IC1 to clock decade counter IC2. IC2's decoded
1-9 outputs go high in turn & drive the indicator LEDs. On the 10th count, the
CO output goes high & this toggles flipflop IC3a to light LED 10. IC3b controls
IC1 to start & stop the count.
If the distance is greater than 10km,
the circuit first counts to 10 in the
usual manner. LED 10 then remains
lit while the circuit cycles through
the first nine LEDs again. In this way,
the circuit can effectively count up to
a maximum value of 19. Thus, if both
LED 4 and LED 10 are alight when the
Stop button is pressed, for example,
the distance to the flash is 14km.
When a count of 20 is reached,
LED 10 goes out and the count starts
all over again from zero (ie, the count
continually cycles). So, for all practical
purposes, the maximum count is 19.
This is not really a problem however,
since it is unlikely that you will be
able to hear individual thunderclaps
at distances greater than 19km.
The Reset button clears the counter
used in the circuit and effectively
“freezes” the circuit so that all LEDs
are off. This reduces the current consumption to a bare minimum and is
useful for maximising battery life if
there is a substantial delay between
each measurement.
However, the circuit is also automatically reset each time the Start button
is pressed. This feature is handy if you
are taking a number of measurements
in quick succession, since you don’t
have to continually press the Reset
switch.
How it works
Refer now to Fig.1 for the circuit
details.
IC1 is a 555 timer which operates as
an astable oscillator. It is wired here
in a somewhat unconventional manner, however. Normally, the timing
capacitor charges from the positive
supply rail via a resistive network and
discharges (via part of that network)
into pin 7. In this circuit though, the
timing capacitor (2.2µF) charges when
IC1’s pin 3 output goes high and discharges when pin 3 goes low.
PARTS LIST
1 PC board, code 08103951,
102 x 54mm
1 plastic case, 130 x 68 x 41mm
3 momentary normally-off
pushbutton switches (S1-S3)
1 SPDT toggle switch (S4)
1 front panel label, 125 x 63mm
4 AA alkaline cells
1 long 4 x AA cell holder
1 500kΩ miniature horizontal
trimpot (VR1)
4 15mm-long spacers
4 3mm x 25mm machine screws
4 3mm hex nuts
Semiconductors
1 NE555 timer (IC1)
1 4017 CMOS decade counter/
decoder (IC2)
1 4013 dual D flipflop (IC3)
1 1N4004 silicon diode (D1)
1 1N4148 signal diode (D2)
5 5mm red LEDs (LED1-5)
5 5mm green LEDs (LED6-10)
Capacitors
1 100µF 16VW electrolytic
1 2.2µF 16VW electrolytic
2 .01µF MKT polyester
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
1 680kΩ
3 100kΩ
10 1kΩ
Miscellaneous
Light duty hook-up wire, tinned
copper wire for links
March 1995 41
START
S1
POWER
S4
1
STOP
S2
1
3
2
4
.01
IC1
555
680k
100uF
RESET
S3
VR1
IC2
4017
IC3
4013
1
2.2uF
D2
1
D1
LED3
LED5
LED6
LED7
1k
1k
1k
1k
1k
1k
1k
1k
LED4
LED8
LED9
100k
LED1 LED2
1k
1k
100k
100k
1
2
3
4
.01
LED10
6V BATTERY PACK
Fig.2: make sure that all polarised parts, including the LEDs, are correctly
oriented during the PC board assembly. VR1 is used to adjust the 555 timer so
that the circuit counts to 10 in 30 seconds.
The circuit works like this: at
switch-on, pin 3 of IC1 goes high and
the 2.2µF timing capacitor charges
via VR1 and a 680kΩ resistor. When
the capacitor voltage reaches 2/3Vcc
(ie, 2/3 the supply rail voltage), pin
3 switches low and the capaci
tor
discharges until it reaches 1/3Vcc.
At this point, pin 3 switches high
again and so the cycle is repeated
indefinitely.
As a result, IC1 produces a square
wave pulse train at its pin 3 output.
VR1 is adjusted so that oscillator operates at a nominal 0.33Hz, which is
equivalent to one positive going pulse
every 3 seconds.
This signal is used to clock IC2,
which is a 4017 decade counter. Its
decoded 1-9 outputs are normally
low but sequentially switch high in
response to the clocking signal (ie,
Fig.3: this is the full-size etching pattern for the PC board.
42 Silicon Chip
one output goes high at a time for the
duration of each clock cycle). These
outputs, in turn, drive LEDs 1-9 via
1kΩ current limiting resistors.
The tenth LED in the sequence (LED
10) is driven from the CO (carry out)
output of IC2 via flipflop IC3a (4013).
In operation, the CO output goes high
once every 10 clock cycles and this
in turn clocks IC3a which operates
in toggle mode. This ensures that
LED 10 remains lit as the counter
cycles back through again after first
counting to 10.
When power is first applied, both
IC2 and IC3a are reset by virtue of
the 0.01µF capacitor across the Reset
switch (S3). This briefly pulls pin 15
(reset) of IC2 and pin 6 (set) of IC3
high. As a result, outputs 1-9 of IC2
and Q-bar of IC3a are all initially low
and so the LEDs are all off. Only the
decoded ‘0’ output of IC2 is high but,
as this output is unused, this is of no
consequence.
IC3b, along with switches S1 & S2,
provides the start\stop control function. When power is applied, its reset
input (pin 10) is briefly pulled high via
the .01µF capacitor across S2 and this
ensures that the Q output (pin 13) is
initially low. This, in turn, holds pin
4 (reset) of IC1 low and prevents IC1
from operating.
Pressing the Start button (S1) now
pulls the set input of IC3b high and
this toggles pin 13 high and releases
the reset on IC1. IC1 now oscillates
and clocks IC2 at 3-second intervals
to light the LEDs in sequence. The
count continues until the Stop button
is pressed, at which point the Q output of IC3 goes high again and stops
IC1. The count is now effectively
frozen until either the Start button
is pressed again or the Reset button
is pressed.
Diode D2 is necessary to make the
circuit start counting correctly. Without this diode, IC2 would be clocked
by a high going pulse from IC1 as soon
as the Start button was pressed and so
the first LED would light immediately
instead of after the required 3-second
delay.
By including D2, IC2 and IC3 are
reset when the Start button is pressed,
which means that IC2 ignores the
initial high-going pulse from IC1 and
thus counts correctly.
There’s one important point to note
here, though. IC2 and IC3 are held
reset for as long as the Start button is
held down. This means that the circuit will not start counting until the
Start button is released, so it should
only be pressed briefly when you see
a lightning flash.
Power for the circuit comes from a
6V battery (4 x 1.5V AA cells) and this
is applied via power switch S4 and
reverse polarity protection diode D1.
A 100µF capacitor is used to provide
supply decoupling.
Construction
The prototype Lightning Distance
Meter was built on a small PC board
coded 08103951 and is housed in a
plastic utility case. Fig.2 shows the
assembly details.
Before starting construction, check
the board carefully for any shorts or
breaks in the copper tracks by comparing it with the published artwork.
Repair any defects that you do find
(generally, there will be none), then
install PC stakes at the eight external
wiring points.
This done, install the six wire links,
followed by the resistors, diodes,
capacitors and the ICs. Take care to
ensure that the polarised components
are correctly oriented and be sure to
use the correct type numbers for D1
and D2.
Trimpot VR1 can now be installed,
followed by the 10 LEDs. Just load the
LEDs into the board as shown on Fig.2
but don’t solder or trim their leads at
this stage. That step comes later, after
the front panel has been attached.
Take care to ensure that each LED
is correctly oriented – the anode lead
is the longer of the two. We used red
LEDs for LEDs 1-5 and green LEDs for
LEDs 6-10, since we reckoned that any
flashes within 5km were too close for
comfort.
The plastic utility case can now be
drilled to accept the PC board, the four
switches and the LEDs. The first step
is to attach the front panel artwork to
the lid. This can then be used as a template for drilling out the LED mounting
holes. It’s best to drill small pilot holes
first and then carefully enlarge them
using a tapered reamer until the LEDs
are a good fit.
Once this has been done, use the
PC board as a template for marking
out its four mounting holes on the
lid. Drill these holes to 3mm, then
fasten the PC board to the back of the
lid using 15mm spacers and machine
screws and nuts. The 10 LEDs can
This view shows the completed PC board assembly, before it is mounted on the
lid of the case. Note that the final version differs slightly from this prototype (ie,
D2 & the two .01µF capacitors were added after this photo was taken).
The completed PC board is mounted on the lid on 15mm spacers & secured
using machine screws & nuts. Arrange the LEDs so that they just protrude above
the surface of the front panel.
now be pushed into their respective
front panel holes and their leads
soldered. Adjust each LED so that it
just protrudes above the surface of
the front panel.
The front panel can now be used as
a guide for marking out the holes for
the switches. The three pushbutton
switches are mounted on the top of
the case, while the power switch is
mounted on the lefthand side. They
must all be posi
tioned towards the
back of the case so that they clear the
PC board when the lid is fitted.
Once the holes have been drilled,
mount the switches in position, then
March 1995 43
Start
Reset
On
Lightning
Distance Meter
Power
Off
Stop
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
Pressing the Start button again
should now clear the display and
restart the count.
Finally, check the operation
of the Reset button. It should
only be pressed after the Stop
button has been pressed and
should clear the display. Do not
use the Reset button to restart
the count if a count is already
in progress, as this will give
inaccurate results.
Calibration
Kilometres
Assuming that everything
works correctly, the unit can now
be calibrated so that its counts at
Fig.4: this full-size artwork can be used as a drilling template for the front panel. It
the correct rate. As mentioned
should also be used as a guide for marking out the switch mounting positions.
earlier, the sound from a lightning flash travels about 1km in 3
remove the PC board from the lid and on after a brief delay, followed by each seconds. So, to calibrate the unit, simcomplete the wiring. You can use light of the remaining LEDs in turn. Check ply adjust VR1 so that the unit takes
duty hook-up wire for this job.
that the unit counts correctly to 10 30 seconds to count up to 10km. This
and that LED 10 then remains on as will have to be done on a trial and erSmoke test
the count cycles through the first nine ror basis. Rotating VR1 anticlockwise
The test procedure simply involves LEDs again. If any of the LEDs fail to increases the time, while rotating VR1
switching the unit on and checking light, it has probably been installed clockwise reduces it.
Once thus has been done, you can
that everything works correctly. First, the wrong way around.
Now press the Stop button and complete the final assembly and wait
check that all the LEDs are out immediately after switch-on, then press the check that the display “freezes”, with for that next southerly-buster to blow
SC
Start button. LED 1 should now come the current LED(s) remaining on. up.
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1. Power switch
2. LED
3. Graticule illumination
switch
4. Trace rotation
5. Trace focus
6. Trace intensity for B
sweep mode
7. Brightness control for
spot/trace
8. Trace position
9/10/11. Select input
coupling & sensitivity of
CH3
12. Vertical input terminal
for CH3
13. AC-GND-DC switch for
selecting connection mode
14. Vertical input terminal
for CH2
15/22. Fine adjustment of
sensitivity
16/23. Select vertical axis
sensitivity
17/24. Vertical positioning
control
18/25/38. Uncal lamp
19. Internal trigger source
CH1,CH2,CH3,ALT
20. AC-GND-DC switch for
selecting connection mode
21. Vertical input terminal
for CH1
26. Select vertical axis
operation
27. Bezel
28. Blue filter
29. Display selects A & B
sweep mode
30. Selects auto/norm/single
sweep modes
31. Holdoff time adjustment
32/51. Trigger level
adjustment
33/50. Triggering slope
34/49. Select coupling mode
AC/HF REJ/LF REJ/DC
35. Select trigger signal
source Int/Line/Ext/Ext÷10
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36. Vertical input terminal
for CH4
37. Trigger level LED
39. A time/div & delay time
knob
40. B time/div knob
41. Variable adj of A sweep
rate & x10 mag
42. Ready lamp
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43. Calibration voltage
terminals
44. Horizontal positioning
of trace
45. Fine adjustment
46. Vertical input terminal
for CH5
47. Delay time MULT switch
48. Selects between
continuous & triggered
delay
52. Trace separation
adjustment
53. Ground terminal
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