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Car Sound, Pt.3:
Building A Tube
Sub-Woofer
Car sub-woofers are now very widely
used by those who wish to listen to music
containing sub-100Hz frequencies. In
this article, we show you how to build a
car sub-woofer capable of reproducing
frequencies down to 25Hz.
By JULIAN EDGAR
The vented tube-type sub-woofer
design shown here has several advantages over a conventional, built-in
box design. These advantages are as
follows:
(1). compact size compared to many
sub-woofer installations;
(2). portability – the sub-woofer can
be easily removed when more boot
space is required;
(3). can be used in cars with folddown rear seats, hatchbacks, station
wagons, and mid-engine cars;
(4). low cost (around $200 each);
(5). effectiveness, with response down
to 25Hz; and
16 Silicon Chip
(6). good power handling capability,
allowing the use of high-pow
ered
bridged amplifiers.
Subwoofer design
A large diameter, suitably enclosed
woofer will generate good bass.
However the problem is in fitting the
required large enclosure into a car.
As an example, the recommended
vented box size for a typical 15-inch
sub-woofer is 222 litres. That’s equivalent to a box size of 100 x 50 x 44.4cm,
which means goodbye to the back seat
or boot!
On the other hand, a 10-inch driver
with suitable specifi
cations can be
accommodated in a vented enclosure
of just 50 litres. That’s less than one
quarter the size required for a 15-inch
driver! If two such 10-inch sub-woofers are used, their enclosures occupy
less than half the volume of the 15-inch
unit with only a slight reduction in
effective cone area.
Consequently, I decided to use two
10-inch sub-woofers, each with an
enclosure volume of about 50 litres
in my own car. However, the in-car
results were so good that only one unit
is really required – unless you want to
shake the rear vision mirror so much
that it is impossible to use! But how do
you build-in two enclosures of about
50 litres each and still leave room to
carry luggage if required?
The answer is to build the sub-woofers into two 12-inch diameter tubes,
one running down each side of the
boot. The accompanying photos show
how the tubes were fitted into the boot
of my Subaru Liberty. The tubes are
held in place by aluminium straps
and, when bulky loads need to be
carried, can be easily removed in just
a few minutes.
Plastic storm-water pipe (78cm long) is used for the main
body of the enclosure. The end-pieces are cut from 16mm
MDF & the speaker end-piece is shown here being trialfitted before being finally attached. Make sure that the end
pieces are not undersized – it’s better to have to sand them
back to ensure a tight fit. A sealant/glue such as “Liquid
Nails” should be used to form an airtight seal & at least 16
countersunk screws (see text) should be installed around
the periphery of the tube.
The drivers are mounted at the front
of the tubes and normally pump bass
through the back of the rear seat. Alternatively, if the rear seat is folded,
the sub-woofers pump bass straight
into the cabin.
Building the unit
The bass tubes are made from heavywalled (5mm thick) 32cm diameter
plastic stormwater pipe. The cost
from a plumbing supply house was
$55 a metre. Note that this material
The vents were made from 50mm-diameter plastic pipe
fitted with an outside ring cut from a plumbing adapter
fitting. Each vent was cut to a length of 54mm & sprayed
with black paint before being fitted to the end-piece
opposite the driver.
is also available in sewer pipe form
with a slightly thicker wall but the
cost escalates to almost $80 a metre!
The bass tubes were each cut to
78cm long, giving an internal volume of about 60 litres with the end
pieces in place. Once these pieces
had been cut, the two 32cm-diameter
end pieces for each tube were cut
from 16mm-thick medium-density
fibreboard (MDF). One end-piece
has a hole cut into it to accommodate the driver, while the other has
This view shows the completed enclosure, before the installation of the driver.
The inside of the enclosure was lined with acoustic material to damp out
reflections. This material is actually dressmaker’s quilt wadding, which is about
a quarter of the price of Innerbond. In addition, a thin layer of car carpet has
been used to cover the outside of the tube & this was glued into place using
contact adhesive.
Parts List & Costs
1 10-inch sub-woofer, Jaycar
Electronics Cat. CW-2166,
$109
1 1-metre length of 32cm-dia.
stormwater pipe, $55
1 10-inch speaker grille, Jaycar
Electronics Cat. AX-3522, $14
1 1-metre length of 150cm-wide
quilt wadding, $5
1 1-metre length of car carpet,
$5
Miscellaneous: screws, “Liquid
Nails” glue, scrap 16mm-thick
medium-density fibreboard
(MDF) for tube end pieces,
loudspeaker terminal, speaker
cable, $20
Total Cost: $208 each
a 50mm-diameter hole to accept the
vent tube. An electric jig-saw was used
to make these cutouts.
The end pieces are held in place by
countersunk wood screws inserted
from the periphery of the pipe, with
16 screws and a sealant/adhesive (eg,
“Liquid Nails”) used to ensure an airtight seal at each end. Note that screws
with parallel sides (not tradition
al
woodscrews) should be used to get
maximum purchase when screw
ing
March 1995 17
The two bass tubes are
held in position inside
the boot using brushed
aluminium straps. On
the left is the amplifier
which drives both the
bass tubes & also the
rear deck-mounted
3-way loudspeakers.
into MDF. The large number of screws
(16) proved necessary to ensure an
airtight seal. Even tiny leaks can allow
whistles and buzzes.
Each tube was lined with a soft
acrylic filling. This prevents reflections within the tube, which colour
the sound and give the bass a hollow
timbre. Innerbond speaker-box filling
is available for about $9 a metre but
very similar material can be bought
from dressmaking shops under the
name of quilt wadding. In this form,
it’s about a quarter of the price.
After testing various drivers, it was
decided that the Jaycar CW-2166 had
the right mix of low cost ($109) and
performance. This woofer uses a rigid
cast frame and has a polypropylene
cone. Its free air resonance is 31Hz,
while its power handling capability
is quoted as 120 watts RMS and the
sensitivity as 91dB. In addition, its Qts
is a low 0.33, allowing it to be used in
compact enclosures.
In fact, the enclosure design recommended by Jaycar is perfect for use
as a bass tube – a volume of 45 litres
(with the acrylic filling, the tube I used
would be very close to this figure),
coupled with a vent 50mm in diameter
and 54mm long. The speaker’s impedance is 6 ohms.
Testing
Testing was initially done using an
Akai 45W RMS/channel home stereo
amplifier and a standard graphic
equalizer. Also used was a frequency
generator. By feeding the frequency
generator output to the sub-woofer
via the amplifier, the frequency re
Fig.1: this graph plots the performance of the author’s system. With the +12dB at 45Hz amplifier
equalization switch activated, there is a peak in the frequency response of about 12dB at 31.5Hz.
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This is the view from the inside of the cabin when the rear seat is folded down.
The sub-woofers are reasily removed when the full volume of the boot is needed
by undoing eight wing-nuts & unplugging two cables. Even with the seat back in
its normal position, the bass is sufficient for most people!
sponse (and any peaks or troughs)
could be roughly determined by ear.
In a domestic situation, the response
sounded smooth but with plenty of
punch. The next step was to mount
one of the tubes in a car.
My car sound system uses a mix of
original and aftermarket equipment.
The original Subaru front-end comprising a radio-cassette player and
single CD player has been retained.
The two front channels of this original
system are used to drive the original
dual-cone 6-inch speakers mounted
in the front doors, along with a pair
of Jaycar Super Tweeters which have
been added to the front door sail areas
(the triangular areas where the rear
vision mirrors are).
The two rear channels are used
to drive the speaker-level inputs
of a Coustic AMP-268 4 x 45W car
amplifier and two of its outputs in
turn drive rear deck-mounted Jaycar
6 x 9 3-way speakers. The other two
channels of this amplifier were used
to drive the twin sub-woofers via a
built-in variable low-pass crossover
network.
With just one of the bass tubes connected, the bass was superb. The driver
A steel mesh grille costing $14 was
used to protect the driver. It is held
in place using brackets & roundhead
screws.
showed no signs of being overloaded,
even when driven by the amplifier in
high-power bridged mono mode. In
fact, my reaction was that if the bass
was this good with just one bass tube,
what would it be like with two? The
answer is even better.
Frequency response plot
A visit to Adelaide car sound dealer
Cartronics was made so that a Coustic
Real Time Analyser could be used to
check the system. This is effectively a
spectrum analyser which records and
prints the system’s in-car response.
With the system being driven by a
CD-recorded pink noise signal, and
with the +12dB at 45Hz amplifier
equal
ization switch activated, the
graph showed a peak in the frequency
response of about 12dB at 31.5Hz.
Being the sort of person who likes
lots of bass, I am happy to leave the
system with this boosted low-frequency response. On the other
hand, purists could simply reduce
the switched amplifi
er bass boost
to achieve a flatter response. Either
way, the sub-woofers showed that
they were capable of reproducing low
SC
frequencies with ease.
March 1995 19
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