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COMPUTER BITS
BY GEOFF COHEN
gcohen<at>pcug.org.au
Upgrading your old PC – is
it worthwhile?
Is it worthwhile upgrading your old PC or
should you put the money towards a new
one? The answer depends on the state of your
old PC and the applications you wish to run.
There are a swags of old 286, 386
and even 486SX PCs floating around
now and a question I often get asked
is “is it worthwhile upgrading my old
PC to run Windows, or should I buy
a new one?”. The answer depends, of
course, on what sort of PC you have
and how much you want to increase
the performance – and thus how
much you are prepared to spend on
the upgrade.
The options are: (1) do a minimal
upgrade and recycle the old PC so
the kids can run Windows (word processing and games); or (2) go for a full
upgrade by replacing the motherboard,
CPU and hard disc.
Is it worth it?
First, you have to decide if it is
worthwhile upgrading your PC. If you
have a PC with a mono screen, a hard
disc smaller than 80Mb and less than
4Mb of RAM, upgrading the PC to run
Windows (especially Windows 95) is
not really an economic proposition.
In addition, if you have a major
brandname PC (IBM, Compaq, etc),
you will need to check if the beast
uses a standard size motherboard,
with normal plug in cards. Many
brand- name computers use specialised components and cannot accommodate some of the standard parts
used in clone PCs.
However, if you your PC has a
minimum of a VGA card, a colour
monitor and at least 4Mb of RAM, it
may be worthwhile upgrading it. At
the time of writing (November 1995),
Fig.1: the SimmVerter from Cameleon Technology accepts four 30-pin memory
modules (either 4 x 1Mb or 4 x 4Mb) and effectively converts them to a single
4Mb or 16Mb 72-pin memory module that plugs into the latest motherboards.
32 Silicon Chip
the cost of upgrading to a 486DX2-66
motherboard (including the CPU) is
around $300.00, while a 545Mb hard
disc drive and controller can be had
for just $280.00.
The cost of RAM is not too bad
either, with the price of a 4Mb 72-pin
RAM module currently around $230.
What should I upgrade to?
The answer to this question depends
on what you want to do. Here are a
couple of alternatives to consider:
(1) Windows/games PC. If you only
want to run Windows 3.1 at a reasonable speed – eg, so that the kids can
run Word and a few games – I would
recommend upgrading to:
(i) a 486DX2-66 CPU (these are so
cheap it’s not worthwhile using a
slower CPU);
(ii) 4Mb RAM; and
(iii) an 80Mb or preferably bigger
hard disc.
(2) Microsoft Office/Windows 95
PC. These programs require a bit more
firepower than the system listed above.
To run Microsoft Office the minimum
system would be:
(i) a 486DX2-66 or 486DX4-100/120
CPU, a Pentium being even better;
(ii) 8Mb RAM for Windows 3.1 or
16Mb for Windows 95;
(iii) a 540Mb, 850Mb or even a 1Gb
hard disc.
In addition, a CD ROM drive is
handy for installing pro
grams like
Office and Windows 95 , as it saves
having to install from multiple flopp
ies.
I have noticed that there are still
suppliers advertising Windows 95
systems with only 8Mb of RAM. I have
tried this and it is very slow with Office
95. In fact, you need at least 16Mb for
better performance and allow more
programs to be opened. 16Mb is a
good size for Windows 3.1 and 32Mb
for Windows 95.
Parity or non-parity RAM
Most new motherboards have a
CMOS option to enable or dis
able
parity RAM, the default option being
non parity in the motherboards I have
tried. Unless the PC is going to be
used as a network server, non parity
RAM should be adequate, as a RAM
test is performed every time the PC
is switched on. In any case, I cannot
remember the last time I had a faulty
RAM chip – it was, at least, several
years ago.
Disc controllers
Some motherboards have two sets of 72-pin RAM sockets and four sets of
30-pin sockets. This photo shows a SimmVerter module, itself carrying four 30pin SIMMs, plugged into one of the 72-pin sockets at the rear.
a Windows 95 system if it is to operate
at a reasonable speed.
Using your old memory
A major problem used to be that
while older motherboards used 30-pin
SIMM RAM, the latest 486 and Pentium motherboards only have sockets
for the new 72-pin SIMM RAM. This
meant that upgrading to a new motherboard with 72-pin sockets necessitated
throwing out (or selling cheaply) any
existing 30-pin RAM, which was a tad
annoying.
Fortunately, a new device in now
available which overcomes this problem. It’s called a “SimmVerter” and it
effectively allows four 30-pin SIMMs
(1Mb or 4Mb) to be converted to one
4Mb or 16Mb 72-pin SIMM module.
All you have to do is plug four 30-pin
SIMMs into the sockets on the SimmVerter. The SimmVerter itself then
plugs into a 72-pin RAM socket on
the motherboard.
SimmVerters cost around $30 each,
which is far less than the cost of having to replace 4Mb of RAM. They are
available in four different shapes so
that you can easily accommodate four
SimmVerter modules adjacent to each
other, if necessary – see Fig.2.
Another approach is to see if there
is any secondhand RAM available,
either on the Net (eg, aus.ads.forsale.
computers) or in the Saturday paper.
An important difference with the Pen-
tium is the need to fit 72-pin SIMMs
in groups of two. I won’t mention
who fell for that trap the first time he
installed a Pentium motherboard and
used a single 8Mb SIMM, instead of
two 4Mb SIMMs, and then complained
that the !<at>#$%^&* thing wouldn’t
work.
If you want to improve Windows
performance, the cheapest option
is to increase your RAM. Upgrading
from 4Mb to 8Mb makes the biggest
difference and Word 6, for example,
loads many times faster with this
simple upgrade. Increasing the memory even further will provide even
MODEL B
MODEL A
MODEL C
MODEL D
Fig.2: SimmVerters come in four
models (A, B, C and D) so that they
can be fitted to adjacent memory
sockets.
An upgraded disc controller card
may be necessary if you are upgrading
the hard disc. Assuming that you are
going to stick with an IDE disc, you
can purchase a multi-I/O card for
around $25.
As well as running your floppy
drives and two IDE hard discs, this will
also generally provide two serial ports,
a parallel printer port and a games
port. If you have (or are upgrading to)
a VESA motherboard, then you should
buy a VESA multi-I/O card, as they are
much faster than a standard ISA card.
Note, however, that most new Pentium PCI motherboards will already
have the floppy, hard disc and I/O
controllers on board. In that case, you
don’t have to worry about a separate
I/O card.
Hard discs
Depending on your requirements,
you could stay with an existing 80200Mb hard disc and buy a used 100200Mb drive. However, a new 500Mb
hard disc is only around $200 and a
minimum of 150Mb is needed to run
the full Windows 3.1 and Microsoft
Office suite of software.
If you are fitting a hard disc of
500Mb or above and have thousands
of files, you need to consider how to
partition it. For drives under 512Mb,
a one byte file will take 8192 bytes.
This increases to 16,384 bytes for 5121024Mb drives, and so on.
In other words, the larger the logical
drive, the larger the space that a one
byte file effectively takes up and this
wastes space. For example, if you
have an 850Mb disc with 10,000 files,
this will waste (on average) 10,000 x
January 1996 33
The ZIP Drive – 100Mb On A $33 Disc
speed at which Windows updates the
screen may not be all that fast if an
old ISA video card is fitted. Starting
at around $120, a VESA or PCI video
card will speed things up considerably. Typical examples, using ATPERF
for relative performance details, are:
Old ISA 2
VESA
12
PCI
20
Another item to consider, if you
want to use high resolution (ie, 1024
x 768 or larger), is the amount of video
RAM. A new video card should have
a minimum 1Mb of RAM (preferably
with sockets to accept more), or you
can just bite the bullet and get a video
card with 2Mb of RAM for even better
performance.
Installation
Most computer users don’t consider backing up the large hard discs
that are now being sold. There’s an
old saying that there are only two
types of computer users: those who
have lost data and those who will
lose data. The truth is that backing
up onto floppy discs is often too cumbersome, while tape drives have the
capacity but are quite slow when it
comes to retrieving files (unless you
have a DAT tape drive).
External drive
An external drive is the answer to
backup problems. One interesting
new device is the Zip drive which has
recently been released by Iomega.
This is a (relatively) cheap 100Mb
removable disk drive which retails for
around $370, with the 100Mb discs
selling for around $99 for a pack of
three. When installed, it is assigned
a drive letter and is treated just like
any other disc drive.
I have been using the parallel
port version for several weeks now.
It really is quite nifty – you just plug
it into a parallel port, run GUEST.
16,384/2 bytes, or around 80Mb.
However, if this disk was configured
into two 425Mb partitions, you would
save over 40Mb of space. So consider
carefully how you should partition the
34 Silicon Chip
EXE and copy to/from the ZIP disc.
A SCSI version is also available for
the same price and is reported to be
three times faster than the parallel
version. On the downside, the SCSI
version isn’t as portable and you
have to buy a SCSI controller for it.
Testing
I did some testing and found that
large database files copied to the
Zip drive at about 4.5Mb per minute. Alternatively, by using Norton
Backup and saving to a logical disc
drive, I was able to copy at an effective 8-10Mb per minute and fit over
250Mb (before compression) on one
100Mb disc. So, at just $33 per disc,
the Zip drive is good for archiving
applications.
Assuming that it stands up to prolonged use, the Zip drive is a good
product. I tested mine by copying
files to and from it for over 20 hours
without any problems. Zip drives are
imported by Polaroid Australia (1800
066 021) and are available from
computer dealers and from Harvey
Norman retail stores.
disc (using FDISK), before you actually
start using it.
Video cards
Even with a Pentium processor, the
For timid souls, there are many
computer shops and technicians who
will upgrade your PC for a reasonable
labour cost. If you are more adventurous, replacing a motherboard is a
relatively straightforward job.
First, remove all cables from the
PC (including the power cord) and
remove the cover (this is usually done
by removing a number of self-tapping
screws). Once inside the PC, remove
all the plug-in cards from the mother
board.
Depending on the age of the PC, the
motherboard itself will probably be
secured by two or more screws that
will need to be removed. Once this
has been done, the motherboard will
then either lift or slide out.
The next step is to swap the nylon clips from the old to the new
mother
board, after which the new
motherboard can be installed in the
case and the plug-in cards reinstalled.
An important point to note here is
that if you have two connectors that
go to the power connector on the
motherboard, the black wires should
be next to each other when they are
plugged in.
Another option that you may want
to consider is a new case, especially
if the old one is looking a bit tacky.
A complete mini-tower case and
power supply can be purchased for
less than $100 and would certainly
improve the value of the PC if you
wanted to sell it.
Finally, if you have any problems
locating a SimmVerter, I purchased
mine from The Logical Approach in
Canberra – phone (06) 251 6511. SC
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