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VINTAGE RADIO
By JOHN HILL
Making a few odd repairs
It often only takes a few simple repairs to
keep an old vintage radio in working order.
It helps if the valves are in their correct
sockets, though.
About five years ago, I had a visit
from my sister-in-law, Doris, who fell
in love with – no, not me – my radio
collection. She just had to have an
old radio and wouldn’t take no for an
answer. What’s more, it wasn’t just
any old radio she wanted; it had to be
a nice big console model.
So we went to my storage shed and
I dragged out a few likely contenders.
Doris chose one that appealed to her
and she seemed pleased with her
choice because, even at that unrestored
stage, the receiver was working and it
sounded rather good.
I was to restore the radio part while
Doris’ friend, Shirl, would refurbish
the timber cabinet. It was not long
before the fully-restored receiver was
the pride and joy of the lounge room.
Being a 1940 model (unbranded), it
was made at a time when superhet
development had reached its peak and
this dual-wave set was indeed a very
good radio.
In fact, as far as 5-valve receivers
go, this particular one gives exceptional performance and it is really
well designed. Its 10-inch (250mm)
electrodynamic loudspeaker produces
This little 5-valve Philips receiver has been operating on a Silastic repaired
speaker cone for the past seven years.
86 Silicon Chip
a good sound and Doris was more than
pleased with her old radio.
However, what I didn’t know for
quite some time was that the old 5-valver was turned on at around 7.30 most
mornings and was on all day until the
TV news at night.
When I heard about that I nearly had
a heart attack! I just couldn’t help worrying about that half-century old power transformer running for 10 hours a
day, not to mention the fine winding
of the field coil and the valves which
were only good secondhand units at
the time of the restoration.
Well, to cut a long story short, the
old receiver eventually packed it in
and had a minor relapse. So after
about five years of daily use, it found
itself once again on my workbench
for repairs. What I found was most
interesting and well worth reporting.
Weak sound
The main problem with the receiver
was weak and distorted sound, which
was quickly traced to an open screen
resistor. Once the defective component
was replaced the set fired up as it had
always done and the ailment was
completely cured.
When I originally restored this
receiver, I had marked the valve test
readings on the valves. Despite the
heat of the rectifier and output valves,
the Texta pen markings were still there
to read, as though they were written
only yesterday.
The interesting aspect of this is that
when the valves were tested again,
they all gave much the same readings
as five years ago. The 6V6 output
valve had dropped from 80 to 75, the
6B6 first audio was down by a similar
amount and the other valves were
much the same as before.
This gives a good practical indica-
Dow Corning’s Silastic is ideal for
speaker cone repairs. It is tough,
flexible and adheres to the paper cone
very well.
tion of how long a radio valve can be
expected to last, especially when it
operates in a receiver that is working
properly.
The original restoration saw the
replacement all the paper and electrolytic capacitors. The resistor values
were all OK and, as a result, the set
has been working as it was designed
to work. It was only the failure of a
screen resistor that brought this good
run to a halt.
Loudspeaker repairs
The console receiver that Doris “adopted” is a 1940, 5-valve, dual-wave unit
with good performance. Shirl’s cabinet restoration was a top job!
This particular speaker cone was split from rim to centre. The repair has not
had any apparent adverse effect on its performance.
Another point of interest is the loudspeaker. Five years ago the speaker
cone was starting to split at the outer
edge and these splits were repaired
using Dow Corning “Silastic”. The
type used was the automotive gasket
formula – the one that smells like
vinegar.
In this instance, the repair was still
intact and looked as though it would
remain that way for quite some time
to come.
When applying Silastic to a speaker
cone, it needs to be rubbed well into
the paper for good adhesion and used
as thinly as possible. Whilst this repair
method has been mentioned before in
this column, it was comforting to see
a repair which has been in service for
many years and showing no signs of
lifting or cracking.
The speaker in our kitchen radio (a
late 1950s 5-valve Philips) was also
“bogged up” with Silastic about seven
years ago. Although this repair has
not been checked since, the set is still
working OK so it is, presumably, another successful speaker cone repair.
Once again, the little Philips receiver is on for at least four hours a day
and gets constant use.
I recently received a letter from
July 1996 87
This Radiola console chassis was sent to me for repair by someone in
Queensland. Unfortunately, it was sent in without its loudspeaker and output
transformer, which complicated the troubleshooting procedure.
a reader seeking informa
tion about
speaker cone repairs. In this case the
speakers belonged to an old Hammond
valve organ (drool!) and the inquiry
sought my advice on a suitable repair
method. Cigarette paper and shellac
had been recommended but the person
concerned was hoping I could suggest
something better.
Once again, I recommended the
Silastic treatment but what a test it
will be in an organ. A nice loud 16
foot bass note will just about shake
anything loose and that could include
a smear of silicone rubber. Only time
will tell?
According to some old repair men,
speaker cones were tradi
t ionally
repaired with paper and nail polish
or paper and shellac. As far as I’m
concerned, such a repair should be
satisfactory on the main conical part
but not on the outer edge or rim where
the paper actually flexes.
Quite often the outer edge of the
cone simply wears out and the rim
starts to separate from the cone. This
area needs to be mended with something strong and flexible and I have yet
to find anything better than Silastic to
do the job.
If the Silastic repair can be done
before the rim starts to separate, it
will be a better job than if the rim has
already split. If the rim has split half
way around the cone, then it is more
difficult to do a neat repair job.
88 Silicon Chip
Incidentally, a wet finger will
smooth out the Silastic and help to
finish off the job more neatly.
The old Radiola
Quite recently, someone I have
never met sent a radio for me to repair
all the way from sunny Queensland.
This person assumed that there
must be a repair man associated with
the “Orpheus” Radio Museum in
Ballarat who could fix his valve radio. So he sent the set to his brother
in Ballarat who, in turn, eventually
brought it to me.
In a letter to see if I would be interested in doing the job, it was stated
that others had already looked at the
receiver and the “expert” opinion was
that it needed two new valves, a 6SQ7
and a 6V6 (apparently on the basis
that these valves did not light up). If
I could supply these valves, it should
be all that was needed to fire up the
old receiver once again.
I agreed to at least look at the radio
and arranged a time. The set arrived
and much to my dismay it was just a
chassis without its loudspeaker.
The chassis was from an early postwar Radiola console, being a large
dual-wave type with GT octal valves.
A speaker lead wired directly into the
chassis had a 5-pin socket on the end
of it which connected to a 5-pin plug
fixed to the speaker frame – a typical
Radiola set up of that era.
As anyone who tinkers around with
valve radios would know, one likely
cause of failure in these receivers
is the output transformer which is,
more often than not, attached to the
loudspeaker.
My immediate thought was, “I bet
it is the output transformer that is at
fault”. But as it was interstate, I had
no way of knowing!
I suggested that the chassis be left
with me while I tried to work out the
problem of the missing loudspeaker, the two valves that supposedly
wouldn’t light up, and anything else
that might ail the non-functioning
receiver.
When I finally found time to work
on the old 5-valver, I was able to work
through some of the mysteries quite
easily.
First, there were only three connections to the 5-pin speaker socket,
with one of them going to chassis.
This immediately indicated a permag
speaker and not an electrodynamic
type, as first thought. And a high
tension filter choke mounted on the
chassis confirmed this. It is amazing
what you fail to notice until you
have time to quietly check things
out, without having some concerned
person present suggesting what might
be wrong.
The main problem was solved when
it was discovered that the 6SQ7 and
the 6V6 valves failed to light up because some “expert” along the way
had put them into the wrong sockets.
And yes, you guessed correctly!
When the valves were changed over
and a speaker and output transformer
substituted, the set burst into life without replacing a single component. So,
once again, that left the output transformer as the number one suspect.
Now it is very difficult dealing with
someone you don’t know through a
third person who may not be all that
enthusiastic about being involved.
Even so, I requested through the third
party that the loudspeaker be sent to
me so that I could check it out and fit
another output transformer, assuming that my assumption was correct.
In the meantime, I would go ahead
with the repair and replace the remaining paper capacitors, test the
valves, renew the wiring that had
perished natural rubber insulation,
give it a tune up, a new dial cord
and whatever else the old Radiola
may require.
A rear view of the Radiola chassis. The old receiver wasn’t working because
two of its valves (the 6V6 and 6SQ7) had been transposed in their sockets. Once
the valve problems were sorted out, it worked quite well, even with its original
paper capacitors.
Several weeks went by before I
was made aware that the owner was
reluctant to send the speaker because
he was sure that there was nothing
wrong with it. The chassis was to be
picked up that afternoon and returned
to Queensland.
The Radiola was set up on the
workbench for a final run so that it
could be demonstrated when picked
up later in the day. It was working
OK sometime later when I left the
workshop for morning tea but it was
not working when I returned. What’s
more, there was a smell in the air that
suggested something was cooking at a
fairly high temperature. I was right! It
was wax that was cooking and it was
bubbling out of the high tension filter
choke very nicely.
A high tension short was suspected – what else could it be? A likely
suspect was the electrolytic capacitor
on the output side of the filter choke.
It checked out OK!
After eliminating a number of other
possibilities, the fault turned out to
be in the filter choke itself. While the
winding was still intact, it was short
ing to the core laminations which was
most undesirable to say the least. A
replacement choke solved the problem
and the Radiola chassis was on its way
to Queensland that afternoon.
I asked to be informed as to whether
the loudspeaker worked when the time
came to try things out. Eventually, I
will find out if my original diagnosis
was correct.
No guarantees
Wasn’t it a stroke of luck for all
concerned that the faulty filter choke
croaked while it was still on my workbench? My reputation could have been
ruined!
The choke failure is also a good reason why it is unreasonable to expect
a guarantee with vintage radio repairs
unless one replaces all suspect and
likely-to-fail components and charges
accordingly. Few are prepared to pay
the price.
I work on a standard kerbside warranty. Once the owner’s vehicle leaves
SC
the kerb, it’s out of warranty!
EVATCO
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Industrial Users
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PO Box 381 Chadstone Centre 3148
Tel/fax (03) 9571 1160 Mob: 0411 856 171
Email: evatco<at>werple.net.au
July 1996 89
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