This is only a preview of the June 1996 issue of Silicon Chip. You can view 23 of the 96 pages in the full issue, including the advertisments. For full access, purchase the issue for $10.00 or subscribe for access to the latest issues. Items relevant to "A High-Performance Stereo Simulator":
Items relevant to "A Low Ohms Tester For Your DMM":
Articles in this series:
Items relevant to "Automatic 10-Amp Battery Charger":
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10-Amp
A
Battery Charger
Have you tried to start your car or boat
recently and found the battery wouldn’t
do its job? Do you need a fast charger
for the battery? This new automatic 10amp charger should fit the bill.
By RICK WALTERS
Although it’s possible to buy a commercial battery charger for just $30, it
won’t get you out of trouble in a hurry
if you have a flat battery. These chargers usually have a maximum current
rating of just 4A continuous, which
means that it can take many hours to
bring a flat battery up to scratch.
Often, it’s a case of connecting the
charger and letting the battery charge
70 Silicon Chip
for the rest of the day or overnight.
Many low-cost commercial chargers
also lack any useful indication of the
charging rate. What’s more, they often only have a single fixed charging
voltage and come with rather flimsy
clamps and cables. When it comes to
battery chargers, the old adage “you
get what you pay for” is quite true.
By contrast, this design is capable
of pumping out a hefty 10A on a continuous basis and can automatically
charge 6V, 12V or 24V batteries. You
don’t have to manually set the charging
voltage either. When connected to a
battery, this unit measures its voltage
and then automatically selects the
correct charging rate.
This scheme works because a “flat”
battery is generally only a few volts below its nominal voltage. For example,
a flat 12V battery generally would be at
about 10V while a 24V battery would
drop to about 20V.
The only drawback of this scheme is
that the charger will not automatically
recognise a 12V battery that has gone
below 8V or a 24V battery that has gone
below 16V. That’s because the sensing
circuit assumes that anything under
8V is a 6V battery, while anything
between 8-16V is a 12V battery.
Most of the components, including the main PC board, the power transformer,
the electrolytic capacitors and two bridge rectifiers, are mounted on an
aluminium baseplate. This provides an excellent heatsink and simplifies
mounting the various components. Note the heatshrink tubing covering the
mains switch and fuseholder terminals.
We don’t think this will happen very
often but if it does, the solution lies in
the “override” pushbutton switch on
the back panel. All you have to do is
hold this pushbutton down for short
periods until the correct voltage indicator LED stays on. We’ll talk about
this function later.
Because of its high current rating,
this battery charger is just the shot for
quickly topping up a battery that’s not
quite up to the job. It can really get
you going again on those cold winter
mornings. It’s also ideal for getting
your boat or recrea
t ional vehicle
battery up to speed, if it’s been lying
around neglected for a while.
Seven front panel LED indicators
give you a good idea as to what’s going
on. First, the BATTERY CONNECTED
LED lights whenever a battery is connected, even if the power is off. Three
more LEDs indicate whether a 6V, 12V
or 24V battery is being charged, while
the remaining three LEDs indicate
FEATURES
✔ Automatic selection for 6V,
12V or 24V batteries
✔ Manual override button for
single voltage setting
✔ 10A maximum charging
current
✔ Automatic change over from
high through medium to trickle
charge
✔ Battery voltage and charge
status indicator LEDs
✔ Output short circuit protection
✔ Reverse polarity protection
the charging rate (trickle, medium or
high).
How it works
Refer now to Fig.1 for the circuit
details. This circuit can be split into
four blocks:
(1) a battery voltage sensing and
reference voltage summer (IC1);
(2) a switching regulator (IC2 and
associated circuitry) which regulates
the battery charging voltage. This circuit block also senses and limits the
battery charging current;
(3) a power supply based on transformer T2, full-wave bridge rectifier
BR1 and 3-terminal regulator REG1;
and
(4) charging and voltage indicators
based on transistors Q5-Q7 and LEDs
1-7.
Let’s take a closer look at each of the
various circuit functions.
The battery voltage sensing circuit
consists of three comparators: IC1a,
IC1b and IC1c. As shown, pins 3
& 5 of IC1a & IC1b respectively are
June 1996 71
Fig.1: comparators IC1a-IC1c provide the automatic battery voltage sensing function, while IC2
is the switching regulator. The latter generates a PWM (pulse width modulated) waveform and
drives Mosfet Q4 via a buffer stage (Q2 & Q3) and isolating transformer T1. IC1d monitors the
voltage across the 0.01Ω current sensing resistor and drives the charge indicator LEDs.
72 Silicon Chip
PARTS LIST
1 plastic instrument case with
plastic front & rear panels, 260
x 180 x 65mm (Jaycar HB5984
or equivalent)
1 self-adhesive front panel label,
250 x 60mm
1 PC board, code 14105961, 145
x 83mm
1 PC board, code 14105962, 51
x 48mm
1 160VA toroidal power
transformer with 18V
secondaries (Jaycar MT2113 or
equivalent)
1 mains lead with moulded 3-pin
plug
1 mains switch with plastic rocker
& neon indicator (S1) (Jaycar
SK0985 or equivalent)
1 pushbutton momentary contact
switch (S2)
2 3AG panel-mount fuseholders
(Jaycar SZ2020 or equivalent)
1 2A 3AG slow-blow fuse (F1)
1 16A 3AG fuse (F2)
1 10A battery clip - red (DSE
P-6420 or equivalent)
1 10A battery clip - black (DSE
P-6422 or equivalent)
5 TO-3 insulating bushes
2 TO-220 insulating washers
1 E-type ferrite transformer
complete with bobbin - Jaycar
LF-1270 or equivalent (T1)
3 190mm cable ties
1 ETD29 transformer assembly
(Philips 2 x 4312-020-37502
ferrite cores; 1 x 4322-02134381 former; 2 x 4322-02134371 clips) (L1)
1 1.5-metre 30A battery cable
(red)
1 1.5-metre 30A battery cable
(black)
7 5mm LED clips
1 3mm x 10mm tapped spacer
4 3mm x 6mm tapped spacers
2 3mm x 15mm bolts
5 3mm x 12mm bolts
8 3mm x 6mm bolts
16 3mm hex nuts
11 3mm flat washers
12 3mm spring washers
2 mains cable clamps (Jaycar
HP0716 or equivalent)
3 6PK x 10mm screws
4 6mm female solder quick
connectors (BR1)
1 260mm length 20 B&S
enamelled copper wire (for
.01Ω resistor)
1 6-metre length 21 B&S
enamelled copper wire (for L1)
1 9-metre length 30 B&S
enamelled copper wire (for T1)
connected to the positive terminal of
the battery via a 20kΩ resistor and to
ground via two series 10kΩ resistors.
This arrangement ensures that half the
battery voltage appears on pins 3 & 5,
while one quarter of the battery voltage
appears on pin 10 of IC1c.
A voltage divider string fed from the
+15V output of REG1 is used to set the
bias voltages on the inverting inputs
of IC1a-IC1c. As shown, pin 6 of IC1b
is biased to +2V, while pins 2 & 9 of
IC1a & IC1c are biased at +4V.
If a 6V battery is connected, the
output of IC1b will switch high,
turning on Q7 and lighting LED7
(the 6V indicator LED). Similarly, a
12V battery will cause the outputs of
both IC1a and IC1b to switch high.
Because pin 1 of IC1a is now high,
LED7 turns off and LED6 turns on (via
Q6), indicating that a 12V battery is
being charged.
Finally, a 24V battery causes all
three comparator outputs to switch
high. LEDs 6 & 7 will now both be off,
while LED5 will be on to show that the
battery is being charged to 24V.
Semiconductors
1 LM324 quad op amp (IC1)
1 TL494 or TL594 switching
regulator (IC2)
1 BS170, BS170P or VN10KM
N-channel IGFET (Q1)
1 BD139 NPN transistor (Q2)
1 BD140 PNP transistor (Q3)
1 MTP75N05 N-channel IGFET
(Q4)
3 BC548 NPN transistors (Q5-Q7)
1 7815 3-terminal regulator
5 1N914 switching diodes
Switching regulator
IC2 is a TL494 PWM switching
regulator IC from Texas Instruments.
(D1,D2,D5-D7)
1 BYV32-200 ultra-fast diode (D3)
1 1N4004 power diode (D4)
1 400V 35A bridge rectifier (BR1)
1 400V 6A bridge rectifier - P04
(BR2)
7 5mm red LEDs (LED1-LED7)
1 15V 400mW zener diode (ZD1)
Capacitors
3 4000µF 63VW chassis mounting
electrolytic
1 470µF 63VW PC electrolytic
1 220µF 25VW PC electrolytic
1 100µF 16VW PC electrolytic
2 22µF 16VW PC electrolytic
3 10µF 16VW PC electrolytic
1 4.7µF 16VW PC electrolytic
3 0.1µF 100VW monolithic
ceramic
1 .0022µF 100VW MKT polyester
Resistors (0.25W 1%)
1 10MΩ
7 4.7kΩ
1 1MΩ
1 2.2kΩ
2 220kΩ
1 1.8kΩ
1 100kΩ
2 1.5kΩ
3 56kΩ
6 1kΩ
2 27kΩ
1 910Ω
1 20kΩ
1 470Ω
1 15kΩ
1 330Ω
3 10kΩ 1W
1 100Ω
2 10kΩ
1 91Ω
2 8.2kΩ
1 0.01Ω
1 5.6kΩ
Miscellaneous
Red, orange & black hook-up wire;
heatshrink tubing.
This device contains an on-board
oscillator, a reference regulator, two
error amplifiers, and a pair of output
driver transistors.
In operation, this device monitors
the voltage between its pin 1 and pin
2 inputs and adjusts its output duty
cycle accordingly, to give the correct
charging voltage.
In greater detail, pins 1 & 2 are the
non-inverting and inverting inputs
respectively of an internal error amplifier (designated A1). Pin 1 monitors the battery voltage via a voltage
divider (5.6kΩ and 910Ω), while pin
2 monitors the output of the reference
June 1996 73
Fig.2: most of the parts are installed on these two PC boards.
Make sure that transformer T1 is correctly oriented, as it’s
easy to install it back-to-front. In addition, the two round
plastic corner lugs on the base of this transformer must be cut
off so that the pins go through the PC board.
voltage summer formed by IC1a-IC1c.
When a 6V battery is connected, pin
7 of IC1b goes high as we’ve already
described. As well as driving Q7, this
output is also applied to a voltage divider consisting of 56kΩ, 4.7kΩ and
330Ω resistors. As a result, +1V DC is
applied to pin 2 of IC2.
When a 12V battery is connected,
the output of IC1a goes high as well
and so the two 56kΩ resistors at the
comparator outputs are effectively in
parallel.
This means that a signal of +2V is
now applied to pin 2 of IC2 and this
jumps to +4V for a 24V battery (all
three comparator outputs high).
Thus, depending on the voltage of
the battery connected to the charger,
the comparators apply a fixed DC
voltage to pin 2 of IC2 (ie, to amplifier
A1’s inverting input).
This voltage is then compared with
the divided battery voltage on pin 1
74 Silicon Chip
of IC2 (the non-inverting input of the
A1 error amplifier). As a result, IC2
adjusts its pulse width output accordingly so that the battery is charged to
the correct voltage.
This works out to be 7.2V for a 6V
battery, 14.4V for a 12V battery, and
28.8V for a 24V battery. Note that
these full-charge voltages respectively
equate to 1V, 2V and 4V signal voltages
on pin 1 of IC2.
Override function
Pushbutton switch S2 provides
the override function. As explained
previously, this is used in situations
where the battery is so flat that it is
no longer automatically recognised
by the charger.
To simplify the circuit, however,
S2 provides just one override voltage
(either 6V, 12V or 24V). That’s because
most individual users will only want
to charge one type of battery (usually
12V). The actual override voltage is
determined by the value of resistor
R1 and this is selected when the unit
is built.
When S2 is pressed, it simulates
the relevant comparator output(s) going high and applies the appropriate
voltage to pin 2 of IC2. This forces
switching regulator IC2 to charge
the battery at the correct voltage,
even though the automatic detection
circuitry has failed to identify the
battery.
Assuming that the battery is OK,
this will very quickly bring its voltage up to a level where the automatic
detection circuit can take over. The
battery will then charge to the cor
rect voltage.
In practice, it’s simply a matter of
holding down S2 for short periods
until the correct charge indicator
LED remains on when the switch is
released.
Note, however, that it should rarely be necessary to use the override
switch. Only batteries that have been
severely discharged will have an output that’s so low that they will not be
automatically recognised. And any
battery that’s left in this state for too
long will quickly deteriorate.
Current limiting
The need for current limiting is obvious – without it, a discharged battery
could attempt to draw 30-40A or more.
This would certainly be no good for the
battery or for the charger itself.
In this circuit, the maximum charging current has been limited to 10A.
This is done by monitoring the voltage developed across a .01Ω current
sensing resistor and applying it to
the non-inverting input (pin 16) of
a second error amplifier (A2) inside
IC2. This voltage (ie, on pin 16) is
then compared with a fixed 10mV
reference on the inverting input of
A2 (pin 15).
As long as the charging current remains below 10A, the voltage across
the .01Ω resistor remains below 10mV
and no current limiting takes place.
However, if the current attempts to rise
above 10A, the voltage on pin 16 will
rise above the voltage on pin 15. The
A2 amplifier then generates an error
signal and this in turn reduces the duty
cycle of the pulse width modulated
(PWM) output at pins 9 & 10.
As a result, the maximum output
current is effectively limited to 10A.
If the current does try to rise above
this, the error amplifier immediately
reduces the PWM duty cycle to reduce
the current again.
Mosfet Q1 and its associated components provide a delayed start-up for
the switching regulator (IC2). This is
necessary to give IC1a-IC1c sufficient
time to apply the correct reference
voltage to pin 2.
When no battery is connected, Q1’s
gate is at ground and so it is turned
off. As a result, pin 4 (Inhibit) of IC2
is held at the pin 14 reference voltage
(5V) via a 4.7kΩ resistor and diode
D2 – ie, the 22µF capacitor between
pins 4 & 14 will be discharged. This
prevents the switching regulator from
producing any output.
If a battery is now connected, the
output of IC1b (and perhaps IC1a &
IC1c as well) will go high after a short
delay, as set by the 22µF capacitor at
pin 5. This high turns on Mosfet Q1
The LED indicator board is mounted on the front panel by pushing the six
charge indicator LEDs into matching plastic bezels. Note the 10mm spacer
attached to the middle of the board – this ensures correct spacing between the
board and the front panel.
(via D1) and so the 22µF capacitor on
pin 4 of IC2 charges via the 100kΩ
resistor in Q1’s drain.
As a result, the voltage on the Inhibit
pin slowly reduces as the capacitor
charges. This allows the output pulse
width at E1 and E2 to increase slowly
from zero to a width which is con
trolled by the battery voltage.
Note that pressing the override
switch (S2) also applies a high (+15V)
to the gate of Q1 (via D7). This ensures
that IC2 starts when S2 is pressed,
even if the battery voltage is so low
that none of the op amp outputs has
gone high.
Buffer stage
The paralleled emitter outputs
from IC2 drive a buffer stage based on
complementary emitter followers Q2
& Q3. From there, the PWM signal is
fed to transformer T1. The transformer
secondary then drives Mosfet Q4 via
a 0.1µF capacitor. ZD1 is included to
protect Q4’s gate circuit from voltages
in excess of 15V.
T1 is necessary to isolate the
switching regulator circuitry (IC2, Q2
& Q3) from the output circuitry. This
is because Q4 operates as a source
follower and its source is effectively
at the battery voltage.
In operation, Q4 is switched on and
off by the waveform applied to its gate.
Each time it turns on, it applies a DC
pulse to the positive battery terminal
via inductor L1. When Q4 turns off,
the field around L1 collapses and D3
conducts so that the energy stored in
the inductor can continue charging
the battery.
Note that although Q4 switches a
+55V rail, the average voltage applied
to the battery is determined by the duty
cycle of the PWM waveform from IC2.
The pulse widths are at their narrowest
for 6V batteries and at their widest for
24V batteries.
Bridge rectifier BR2 is there to
protect the circuit against reverse
polarity connection of the battery.
Using a bridge rectifier may seem a
little odd here but we are really only
just connecting the top two diodes
in parallel and with reverse polarity
across the output. The bridge rectifier
is simply a low-cost way of obtaining
two diodes with adequate current
ratings.
If the battery is connected the wrong
way around, the two top diodes inside
the bridge become forward biased and
conduct a heavy current. This blows
15A fuse F2, thereby disconnecting
the battery from the charger before
any damage can occur (other than to
the fuse itself).
Charge indicators
Op amp IC1d, together with LEDs
2-4, provides the charge rate indication – either trickle, medium or
high. It does this by monitoring the
June 1996 75
Fig.4: the
winding details
for transformer
T1. Wind the
primary first,
cover it with
insulating tape,
then wind on
the secondary.
Fig.3: the core halves in inductor L1 are
separated using washers cut from TO3
mounting insulators.
voltage developed across the .01Ω
current sensing resistor. This voltage
is applied to pin 12 of IC1d which
operates with a gain of 214, as set by
the 1MΩ and 4.7kΩ feedback resistors
on pin 13.
The output from IC1d appears at
pin 14 and is applied to the charge
LED indicators. If the charging rate is
greater than about 3.5A, then IC1d’s
output will be above 7.5V and both
the HIGH and MEDIUM LEDs will be
lit. At the same time, the TRICKLE LED
(LED4) will be reverse biased and so
it will be out.
As the battery charges, the output of
IC1d gradually reduces. Because the
cathode of the HIGH current LED is
biased to about 5.5V, it will gradually
dim and then extinguish as IC1d’s
output falls. The MEDIUM LED now
remains lit until the charging current
drops to about 0.75A. It then dims
and goes out, by which time LED4
has come on to indicate the trickle
charge mode.
Note that the output from IC1d must
76 Silicon Chip
Fig.5: install the power switch on the front panel with the
ring on the rocker oriented as shown here.
drop to about 2.4V before LED4 begins
to turn on. That’s because LED4’s
anode is biased to about 4.8V using a
voltage divider and diode D6.
In summary, LEDs 2 & 3 both light
when the charging current is above
3.5A; LED3 lights when the charging
current is in the range 0.75-3.5A; and
LED2 lights when the charging current
is below about 1A. Note that there is a
transition period when both LED3 and
LED4 are on (ie, LED4 gradually turns
on as LED3 dims).
Power supply
Power for the circuit is derived from
the mains via T2, a 160VA toroidal
transformer with 18V secondaries.
This drives full-wave bridge rectifier BR1 which, together with three
4000µF filter capacitors, produces a
+55V rail for the drain of Q4.
The three 4000µF filter capacitors
are required in order to provide an adequate ripple rating so that the charger
can deliver 10A.
A neon indicator wired across the
primary of the transformer provides
power on/off indication, while fuse F1
provides overload protection. D4 and
3-terminal regulator REG1 provide a
regulated +15V rail to power the rest
of the circuitry.
Construction
Most of the parts for the Autocharger
10 are installed on two PC boards: (1)
a main board coded 14105961 (145
x 83mm); and (2) an indicator board
coded 14105962 (51 x 48mm).
Fig.2 shows the parts layout on
the two PC boards. Before installing
any of the parts, carefully check both
boards for etching defects (in most
cases there will be none). If everything
is OK, start the main board assembly
by fitting PC stakes to the 12 external
wiring points, then install the six
wire links.
The diodes and resistors can be
installed next, followed by the ICs,
capacitors and transistors. Be sure
to orient transistors Q2 and Q3 with
their metal tabs facing away from T1.
Fig.7: the mains cord must be anchored securely and the wiring installed
exactly as shown here. Be sure to cover the switch and fuseholder terminals
with heatshrink tubing. The thick lines indicate heavy-duty (30A) cable.
No heatsinks are required for these
two devices.
As explained previously, resistor R1
is selected to set the desired override
voltage. Use 56kΩ to provide a 6V
override, 27kΩ for 12V override and
15kΩ for 24V override.
Care is required when mounting
Q4, D3 and REG1, since their metal
tabs must later line up with matching
holes in a metal baseplate. Note that
these devices are all mounted on the
June 1996 77
copper side of the board, as shown
in Fig.7. The mounting procedure is
as follows:
(1) Bend the device leads upwards
at a suitable distance from the bodies
(note: the holes in the metal tabs must
match the relevant baseplate holes if
this has been pre-drilled);
(2) Install the devices so that the bottom faces of their metal tabs are exactly
6mm below the PC board. This can be
checked out by fitting 6mm spacers
to the PC board and then placing the
assembly on a flat surface. Make any
adjustments as necessary before cutting the device leads off flush with the
top of the board.
Inductor L1 consists of six lengths
of wire, all wound together on a
Philips 4322-021-34381 former (as
one winding). This is done to achieve
a high current capacity using a small,
manageable gauge of wire.
The winding procedure is as follows:
(1) cut the 21 B&S wire into six
1-metre lengths;
(2) tin one end of each wire, form
it into a hook and solder each hooked
end to a separate pin on the 6-lug side
of the former;
(3) bundle the wires together and
wind on 20 turns (the direction doesn’t
matter);
(4) check that the ferrite core halves
fit the former, then terminate the six
ends on separate pins on the other side
of the transformer;
(5) cover the windings with a couple
of layers of insulation tape, then slip
one of the ferrite core halves into the
side of the former with the six lugs and
secure it with one of the clips;
(6) cut three TO-3 mounting insulators as shown in Fig.3 (these serve as
Fig.8: the mounting details for D3 and
Q4. Make sure that the area around
their mounting holes is smooth and
free of metal swarf, to avoid punching
through the insulating washers.
spacers between each leg of the two
core halves);
(7) fit the second ferrite core half
to the former, along with one of these
insulating washers as a spacer between
the two centre legs;
(8) push the other two spacers into
the gap between the outer legs of the
core halves, then secure the assembly
using a 190mm plastic cable tie.
Fig.4 shows the winding details
for driver transformer T1. This is
wound on a plastic bobbin using 30
B&S enamelled copper wire. Be sure
to wind the turns in the direction
shown in Fig.4, as the phasing of this
transformer is critical.
The primary is wound first. To do
this, terminate the start of the wire
on pin 2, wind on 100 turns and ter-
NOTE: THE OVERRIDE SWITCH ON THE REAR PANEL
IS FOR USE WITH _____ VOLT BATTERIES ONLY.
PRESS THIS SWITCH IF . . .
(1) No charging voltage is indicated; or
(2) The indicated charging voltage is too low.
Release override switch every 10 seconds until the correct charging
voltage is indicated.
WARNING! – MAKE SURE THAT THE BATTERY IS BEING CHARGED
AT THE CORRECT VOLTAGE BEFORE LEAVING THE CHARGER
UNATTENDED & ALWAYS CHARGE IN A WELL-VENTILATED AREA.
Fig.9: this label should be attached to the top of the charger. Be sure to fill in the
value for the override voltage in the space indicated (either 6V, 12V or 24V).
78 Silicon Chip
minate the finish on pin 1. Cover this
winding with a layer of insulating tape,
then wind on the 110-turn secondary,
starting at pin 5 and finishing on pin
7. Note that the secondary must be
wound in the same direction as the
primary.
The last item to make is the 0.01Ω
resistor, as follows:
(1) take a piece of 20 B&S enamel
wire and cut it to 260 mm;
(2) clean each end with a knife or
emery paper and tin for about 5mm;
(3) wind the wire into a coil (we
used a pencil as a former and ended
up with nine turns).
T1, L1 and the .01Ω resistor can now
be installed on the PC board, as shown
on Fig.2. Be sure to match the start and
finish windings of T1 to their designated locations. It will be necessary to cut
off the two plastic lugs on the botton
of T1, so that it can be pushed all the
way down onto the board.
LED indicator board
The LED indicator board will only
take a few minutes to assemble. Begin
by installing PC stakes on the copper
side of the board at the external wiring
points, or if you wish just solder flying
leads into the holes as shown in one
of the photographs. This done, fit the
resistors, transistors Q5-Q7, diode D1
and the six indicator LEDs.
Note that the LEDs must be mounted
so that the bottom of each LED is 6mm
above the board. The easiest way to do
this is to cut a 6mm-wide cardboard
jig. This jig is then inserted between
the LED leads as they are being pushed
down on the board.
Finally, a 10mm spacer is fitted to
the top of the board – see photo.
Case assembly
A standard plastic instrument case
with plastic front and rear panels is
used to house the circuitry. Most of the
components, including the main PC
board, power transformer, electrolytic
capacitors and the two bridge rectifiers, are mounted on an aluminium
baseplate. This provides an excellent
heatsink and simplifies mounting the
various components.
Begin by attaching the label to the
front panel, then use this as a drilling
template for the LED indicators (6.57mm), the fuseholder and the battery
cable clamp. Note that larger holes
are best made by first drilling a small
pilot hole and then carefully enlarging
Fig.10: this full-size artwork can be used as a drilling template for the front panel.
them using a tapered reamer or, for the battery cable clamp
hole, a small file.
The cutout for the mains switch is made by drilling a
series of small holes around the inside circumference, then
knocking out the centre piece and carefully filing the hole to
shape. Don’t make this hole too big – the mains switch must
be a tight fit so that it is held securely.
The LED bezels, fuseholder F2 and the mains switch (see
Fig.5) can now be fitted to the front panel. The battery cables
consist of 1.5-metre lengths of 30A cable (red for positive
and black for negative). These are each fitted with a large
battery clip at one end. Secure them using a cordgrip clamp,
leaving a length of about 250mm for each cable at the back
of the panel.
The LED indicator board is now fitted by pushing the LEDs
into the bezels, until the spacer contacts the front panel.
Once the front panel assembly has been completed, the
rear panel can be drilled to accept the mains cord clamp,
fuseholder F2 and pushbutton switch S2. The locations of
these holes can be gauged from the photographs and from the
wiring diagram (Fig.6). Note that the mains cord hole should
be carefully profiled to match the cordgrip grommet.
The next step is to drill the baseplate. This will need to be
drilled for the transformer mounting bolt, the two bridge rectifiers, three filter capacitors, the PC board mounting screws,
the three TO-220 devices (Q4, D3 & REG1), and the three
fixing points to secure the baseplate into the base of the case.
The latter three holes take self-tapping screws into integral
pillars in the base of the case. One of these is adjacent to the
front-panel power switch, while the other two are just in front
of the three filter capacitors. When the drilling is done, all the
hardware is mounted on the baseplate before it is mounted
into the case.
Transformer T2 is secured using a large bolt, two rubber
washers and a large metal washer. One of the rubber washers
sits under the transformer, while the second sits under the
metal washer at the top.
The main PC board, the bridge rectifiers and the electrolytic
capacitors can now be installed on the baseplate. The board
is secured at the front and rear using the 6mm spacers and
12mm long bolts.
Note that Q4 and D3 must be isolated from the baseplate
using standard TO-220 mounting kits – see Fig.8. After mounting, check that the device tabs are indeed isolated using a
multimeter switched to a high ohms range.
REG1 can be bolted directly to the baseplate, since its metal
tab is at earth potential.
Final wiring
Fig.6 shows the final wiring details. Exercise extreme care
when installing the mains wiring, as your safety depends on
it. In particular, make sure that the mains cord is securely
anchored by the cordgrip grommet on the rear panel and that
it cannot be pulled out.
The Active (brown) and Neutral (blue) wires from the mains
cord go directly to the mains switch, while the Earth (yellow/
green) wire is soldered to an earth lug which is bolted securely
to the baseplate.
Use a star washer and an additional lock nut to ensure that
the earth lug cannot come loose.
The terminals of the fuseholder and mains switch should
be covered with heatshrink tubing to prevent accidental
contact with the mains. This involves slipping a length of
June 1996 79
Fig.11: the full-size etching patterns for
the two PC boards are shown here. Check
your boards carefully for etching defects by
comparing them with these patterns, before
installing any of the parts.
heatshrink tubing over all the leads
before they are soldered to the terminals. After soldering, the heatshrink
tubing is pushed over the fuseholder
and mains switch bodies and shrunk
using a hot-air gun.
The two thin orange wires from
the transformer are the primary leads
and these go to the mains switch and
the fusehold
er, as shown. The low
voltage secondary leads are much
thicker. Twist the ends of the pink
and yellow leads together (to form the
centre tap) and solder a short length of
hook-up wire to them. The resulting
joint should then be sleeved using
heatshrink tubing.
The red and white transformer
leads go to the AC terminals of the
bridge rectifier via spade terminals,
while the lead connected to the
transformer centre-tap goes to D4 on
the PC board.
All leads between BR2, the fuse
WARNING!
Lead-acid batteries generate hydrogen gas which is explosive. This charger
should only be used in a well-ventilated area and you should always connect
the battery to the charger before turning the mains switch on. This is done to
prevent sparks from being generated.
If the BATTERY LED does not light when the battery is connected, check
the 15A fuse and the battery polarity. This fuse will blow if the battery is
connected the wrong way around and is there to protect the internal circuitry.
Finally, always turn the charger off before disconnecting the battery leads.
Again, this is done to prevent sparks from causing an explosion.
80 Silicon Chip
holder and the PC board must be run
using 30A cable. The only exception
is the lead between the fuseholder
and the battery sense terminal on the
PC board. The connection between
the positive terminal of BR2 and the
fuseholder is made using the bridge
rectifier lead – it’s simply bent over to
contact the fuseholder terminal.
Again because of the currents involved, three separate leads are run
from the +55V terminal on the PC
board to the positive terminals of the
4000µF capacitors. Three more leads
are run from the GND point to the
negative terminals. Similarly, separate
leads are run from the plus and minus
terminals of the capacitors to the corresponding terminals on bridge rectifier
BR1 (see Fig.6).
Note the 10kΩ resistors across the
capacitors – they’re there to discharge
the capacitors after switch off. Warning: don’t touch the capacitor terminals as they can give you a shock.
The remainder of the wiring be-
tween the LED indicator board, LED1
and the main PC board can be run using light-duty hook-up wire. Complete
the construction by fitting the fuses in
the fuseholders. The 2A fuse goes in
fuseholder F1, while the 15A fuse goes
in fuseholder F2.
Testing
Before plugging the unit in and
switching it on, it is a good idea to
check the mains wiring using an
ohmmeter.
To do this, first check that there is
an open circuit between the Active
and Neutral pins of the mains plug
when switch S1 is off and a resistance
of about 13Ω when it is on. If this is
OK, check that there is an open circuit
between each of these two pins (Active
& Neutral) and the earth pin.
Finally, check that the meter reads
zero ohms when connected between
the Earth pin on the plug and the metal
baseplate.
If everything checks out, plug the
charger into the mains and turn it on.
Both the mains switch neon and the
TRICKLE LED (LED4) should light. If
they don’t, switch off immediately,
pull the mains plug and locate the
problem before proceeding further.
Now turn the mains switch off and
connect a 6V or 12V DC battery to the
charger leads (positive to positive,
negative to negative). Check that the
BATTERY CONNECTED LED lights.
Next, disconnect the battery, switch
on the mains and (carefully) measure
the voltage across the 4000µF electrolytic capacitors (warning: do not
touch or short any of the terminals).
You should get a reading of about 55V.
The voltage on pin 8 of IC2 should be
around 15V, while pin 14 should read
around 5V.
If everything is OK so far, the unit
is ready for its first trial.
To do this, turn the charger off and
connect it to a car battery (disconnect
the battery from the car’s electrical system first). The BATTERY CONNECTED
LED should immediately light. Now
switch on the mains and check that
the 12V LED lights (assuming that a
12V battery is connected).
Depending on the state of the battery, one of the charge indicator LEDs
should also illuminate. If the HIGH
LED lights it will probably only be for
a short period of time, then the charger
will switch to MEDIUM. Eventually,
depending on the condition of the
The wiring connections to the LED indicator board can either be run directly to
the copper pads on the back of the board, as shown here, or to PC stakes. Use
cable ties to keep the wiring neat and tidy.
Heatsinking is provided for REG1 (left), D3 and Q4 by attaching them to the
baseplate. After mounting these devices, use a multimeter to confirm that the
metal tabs of D3 and Q4 are correctly isolated from the heatsink.
battery, the charger should switch to
TRICKLE.
Using the override button
Before concluding, here are a few
tips on using the override pushbutton.
First, remember that you have only
one override voltage available. So if
you selected a 27kΩ resistor for R1,
the override function is only available
for 12V batteries.
Of course, you can easily get around
this if by adding a 3-way switch to select between the three possible resistor
values. That way, you can provide an
override function for all three battery
types.
The override function is easy to use.
If the battery does not start charging at
the correct voltage, hold the pushbutton down for 10 seconds, then release
it and check to see if the correct charge
indicator LED stays alight. If it doesn’t,
repeat this procedure until it does.
The battery should then charge to the
correct voltage.
Finally, note that the power transformer specified for the charger is
rated at 160VA. While it is suitable for
topping up 24V batteries, if prolonged
high current charging of these batteries
is envisaged, a 300VA transformer
should be used. This will necessitate
SC
using a bigger case.
June 1996 81
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