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For Sound-Off competitions, neon underbody
car lighting is a fantastic visual effect. Now
you can make it pulse on and off with the beat
of the music. (Photo: Julian Edgar).
Neon tube modulator
for cars & light systems
This little circuit will modulate the 12V neon
tubes which are now available for lighting
systems in cars. It connects to the subwoofer signal from the car sound system and the
neon light is modulated by the bass signal.
By RICK WALTERS
These days it is impossible to miss
the evidence that some cars are fitted
with very fancy and expensive sound
systems. Often, the sound systems are
worth more than the cars and owners
go to great lengths when competing in
“Sound-Off” competitions.
One of the more unusual ways to
dress up a car is to use neon tubes
to light up the under body, the cabin
and the boot space of the car. The
neon tubes we are talking about are
24 Silicon Chip
955mm long overall and are housed
in a tough plastic pipe for protection.
At one end of the pipe is a plastic
case housing a high voltage inverter
running from 12V DC. These tubes
are available from Jaycar Electronics
at $49.95 (Cat. ST-3126).
Connection is simple: you just
connect the tube up to 12V DC and it
runs. Well, pretty neon lights are OK
but they’re a bit static aren’t they? We
thought to ourselves, “Why not make
them pulse in time to the bass beat
of the music?” That should give the
gawkers at Sound-Off shows something to look at!
The solution is a small PC board
which will drive one or two of these
neon tubes. There is an onboard trimpot to set the sensitivity and that’s
about it; set and forget.
Circuit description
The circuit of the Neon tube modulator is shown in Fig.1. The subwoofer
audio signal from the car’s sound
system is applied to the input level
trimpot VR1. From there, the signal
is coupled via a 10µF capacitor to the
base of transistor Q1.
Q1 is lightly biassed on by the
330kΩ resistor and this means that
its collector voltage is normally close
to 0V. Provided that the audio signal
is more than about 1V peak-to-peak,
Fig.1: transistor Q1 is fed with the subwoofer signal and acts to trigger the 555
timer in 15ms bursts to extinguish the neon tube.
PARTS LIST
1 PC board, code 05105971, 60
x 28mm
1 8-pin IC socket (optional)
5 PC stakes (optional)
1 10kΩ horizontal mount trimpot
(VR1)
it will be sufficient to turn transistor
Q1 on and off.
The resulting signal at the collector of Q1 will be a poor square wave
with a rounded rising edge, due to
the 0.1µF capacitor across the 6.8kΩ
collector resistor, but with a much
faster falling edge, as shown in the
waveform of Fig.2. The capacitor rolls
off any higher frequencies that may be
present since we’re only interested
in subwoofer frequencies; ie, 100Hz
and below.
Q1 is used to control IC1, a good old
reliable 555 timer wired as a triggered
monostable oscillator. Its output, pin
3, will normally be close to 0V and
this will turn on transistor Q2 via its
1kΩ base resistor. Q2 will then feed the
+12V battery voltage through the neon
tube’s inverter and it will light up. This
is the situation with no audio input.
If a negative trigger pulse is applied
to pin 2 of IC1, its output at pin 3 will
go high, turning off Q2 and therefore
the neon tube. The length of time the
output is high is controlled by the
150kΩ resistor and 0.1µF capacitor
connected to pins 6 and 7. With these
values, the time the output is high is
15 milliseconds, after which the output pin will go low again. This turns
Q2 on again and the neon lights up
once more.
Semiconductors
1 555 timer (IC1)
1 BC549 or equivalent NPN
transistor (Q1)
1 BD140 PNP power transistor
(Q2)
1 1N4001 or 1N4004 power
diode (D1)
Capacitors
1 100µF 25VW PC electrolytic
1 10µF 25VW PC electrolytic
4 0.1µF MKT polyester
1 .01µF MKT polyester
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
1 330kΩ
2 6.8kΩ
1 150kΩ
1 1kΩ
1 10kΩ
The PC board should only take a few minutes to assemble. It can be housed in a
small plastic case.
Fig.3: use this diagram when wiring up the PC
board.
Fig.4: actual size artwork for the PC
board.
May 1997 25
You simply hook the little PC board in
series with a 12V neon tube to make
the light pulse on and off in time to
the bass beat of the music.
PC board. Use one of these pigtails
for the link. If you wish to use an IC
socket, fit it next along with trimpot
VR1, then fit the MKT capacitors and
transistor Q1.
Finally, fit the electrolytic capacitors and transistor Q2. If you use
PC pins solder them in now and if
you used an IC socket, plug the IC
into it, making sure it faces the right
direction.
Testing
Fig.2: this is the waveform at the collector of Q1 when the
circuit is fed with a low-frequency audio signal.
This negative trigger pulse comes
from Q1’s collector via a 0.1µF coupling capacitor.
To recapitulate, audio signals from
the subwoofer are shaped and clipped
by Q1 then applied to the trigger input
of IC1. The negative-going edge will
trigger IC1, turning Q2 and therefore
the neon tube off. After a short time
IC1 will reset and the neon will ignite
again.
As the audio input is taken from the
subwoofer feed, only the low frequencies are present and these tend to be
a repetitive beat effect. If normal full
range audio were to be applied, the
555 would be triggered continuously.
Thus, Q2 would be permanently held
26 Silicon Chip
off and the tube would never be lit.
The circuit as shown is capable of
driving two neon tubes in parallel at
its output. Diode D1 provides protection against accidental reversing of the
12V supply.
Board assembly
It is always wise to check the etching of the PC board before you begin
any assembly. Look for open circuits
(breaks) in the tracks or areas where
the copper pattern may not be fully
etched away. Any repairs needed
should be done first.
Begin by fitting all the resistors and
diode D1. Solder each lead in turn,
then cut off all the pigtails below the
You can use a 12V battery or a DC
power supply for the test. Connect
the supply negative wire to the PC
board earth. Connect the tube’s red
wire to the neon tube + terminal on
the PC board and the tube’s black
wire to the PC board earth. When you
connect the 12V positive lead to the
+12V battery input on the PC board
the tube should light.
If it doesn’t, check the orientation
of IC1 and Q2, then double check the
wiring as detailed above.
Once you get the tube to light,
connect your subwoofer signal to the
audio terminals, making sure that the
signal wire is connected to the top of
VR1. This done, set your car stereo to
the normal listening level and adjust
VR1 until the neon pulsing effect
suits you.
Don’t turn the control up too far
or the tube will spend most of its life
turned off. Also heed the warning on
the tube and don’t run it continuously
for more than two hours and probably
for even shorter periods in very hot
SC
weather.
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