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Have Disc,
Do you have an old hard disc drive
lying in a cupboard somewhere,
unused and unloved? Here’s a way to
put it to good use for next to nothing
and perhaps give you the flexibility
you’ve always dreamed about!
By ROSS TESTER
A
RECENT JAYCAR advertise-
ment in SILICON CHIP caught
our eye be
cause it appeared
that it might solve a couple of problems we were having transporting
very large files between two remote
computers. And it did!
But first, our problem. As you
probably realise, SILICON CHIP and its
sister magazine ZOOM are produced
entirely on computer. The first time
the printer sees any part of these
maga
zines is as finished computer
files. Unfortunately, those files, particularly a colour page, can easily be
fifty megabytes (50Mb) or more.
We have used a number of methods
to transport these files to the printers.
We’ve “modemed” them (is there such
a word?) but that’s really only feasible
The “Mobile Rack” comes in two versions, one for IDE
drives and the other for SCSI drives. It’s just the shot for
transferring large amounts of data from one computer to
another, or for taking a backup copy of valuable office
data home with you at night.
4 Silicon Chip
for relatively small files – large files
simply take too much time. The most
usual method is to copy the files to
88Mb Syquest discs and to send these
to the printer. However, after years of
faithful service our Syquest drive was
starting to become less than 100%
reliable and, in any case, 88Mb is no
longer really big enough. It needed
replacement.
Will Travel
Step 1: remove the faceplate covering a spare drive bay.
But which way to go? Take a look at
a typical computer products catalog
and you’ll see that a myriad of portable storage devices is now available.
Along with Syquest drives (themselves now available in at least four
different configurations), there are
high capacity floppies, magneto-optical drives, Zip drives, Jaz drives, Syjet
drives and recordable CD-ROM drives
(some now re-writable) – to name but
a few. Would you believe that there’s
even one called a Shark?
Each has its own advantages and
disadvantages. We’ll look at a few.
Zip drives are now quite popular.
The discs are cheap but they only hold
100Mb – not much more than our old
Syquest discs. The Jaz drive, the Zip’s
“big brother”, is much better in this
regard – up to a gigabyte per disc.
However, the drives and discs are still
relatively expensive and not, as yet,
particularly common. And of course,
both Zip and Jaz discs (like Syquests)
can be erased by stray magnetic fields
– so that’s a negative.
Step 2: plug the data cable into the socket on the frame.
High capacity (120Mb) floppy
disc drives are now available. Backward-compatible with the old faithful
but now-almost-useless 3.5-inch floppy disc, they will probably catch on
but as yet they’re almost unheard of.
They’re also pretty expensive (about
$350 for the drive and $70 for the
discs compared to about $40-$50 for
a 1.44Mb floppy drive and cents for
the discs!).
Magneto-optical drives looked like
a pretty good bet for a while. Robust
and unaffected by magnetic fields, the
discs hold up to 640Mb but they are
also expensive and much less common than most other storage devices.
Alas, we bought an MO drive some
time ago but very few others did. It’s
an orphan!
How about CD-ROM – both the
recordable variety and the new re-recordable units?
Yes, they’re very attractively priced
(the drives and the CDs themselves
have dropped dramatically in price in
the past year, perhaps due to supply
and demand but just as likely because
a new standard – DVD – has arrived).
Of course, there is no problem in
anyone else reading a CD because
just about every PC made in the last
couple of years has a CD-ROM drive
built in. CDs are also quite robust and
unaffected by magnetic fields.
We also purchased a CD-ROM writer
and have used this very successfully.
The one big drawback is time: you
can’t easily add files to a CD-ROM as
you can, say, to a hard disc or a Syquest
disc. And where large amounts of data
are involved, it can take more than an
hour to test, write and verify the CD.
Sometimes that’s an hour we can’t
spare when the presses are waiting!
So you can see, the decision is not
at all simple. Or at least it wasn’t until
we spotted a rather interesting item
in the aforementioned Jaycar advert.
Mobile rack
The item advertised was a “Mobile
Rack”, or removable hard disc carrier
and frame for $39.95. As the name sugOctober 1997 5
Step 3: plug a spare power cable into the power socket. Use a Y-adaptor if you
don’t have any spare power cables.
manded!). What was a perfectly good
hard disc drive a couple of years ago,
with a capacity of 100Mb or 200Mb,
has become today’s paperweight.
A quick search soon turned up a
couple of old IDE hard discs sitting in
the bottom drawer of a filing cabinet
(mainly ‘cos no-one had the heart to
throw out a perfectly good hard disc!
But then again, I still have my first-ever 20Mb MFM drive in a cupboard
at home. Call me a sentimentalist if
you will).
Anyway, we reasoned, what if we
resurrected one of these IDE discs and
used it one of these frames? For less
than forty bucks, our problems could
be solved. (Naturally, we would also
have to convince our printers to make
the same huge investment).
Knowing only too well our file
transfer problems, which of course
were also their problems, they baulked
at spending such a princely sum for
only a millisecond or two. And then
our file transfer problems were over!
Here’s how we did it, how they did
it, and how you can do it too. Even if
it’s only to take work home at night
that you should have finished during
the day, this little device is a gem!
Fitting the disc drive
Step 4: carefully slide the frame into the drive bay.
gests, the device is designed to allow
any standard size 3.5-inch or 2.5-inch
disc drive (half height or less), which
would normally be mounted inside a
computer, to be made removable. The
frame comes in two types, one to suit
standard IDE hard disc drives and the
other to suit SCSI drives.
There are two very obvious uses for
such a device. The first is file security
and we’ll have more to say on this
a little later. The second is to allow
6 Silicon Chip
the computer’s hard disc drive to be
transported from one computer to
another, allowing files, programs and
so on to be transported. Aha! Exactly
what we were looking for!
But did we really have to use one of
the hard disc drives in our computers?
Why not another one altogether?
Like most computer users, we have
upgraded our hard disc drives many
times as our needs increased (no, make
that read as the programs we use de-
Before doing anything with the
drawer, have a good look at your disc
drive. Make a note of its type number
and any information printed on it –
especially such information as its size
and the number of cylinders, heads,
sectors, landing zones, precompress
ion and so on.
If this information isn’t printed
on your drive (and on many older
drives it may not be), you will need
to find it out – either from the manufacturer’s data sheet which came
with the drive, from the distributor,
a friendly computer techie (who will
probably have one of those handy
programs which list hard disc drive
parameters) or – if you have access to
it - the manufacturer’s web site on the
Internet. And while you’re about it,
you will also need to find out about
the various jumper settings that are
applicable to the drive.
The jumpers are normally changed
by moving a small header onto various
sets of pins. These may be mounted
on the disc drive PC board itself or
they may be elsewhere on the drive.
You may or may not need to change
a jumper: if this is the only drive in
your computer and you are simply
making it portable, you won’t have
to bother. It would have been set as a
“master” – keep it that way.
However, if you are adding another
IDE drive to your computer, it will
probably need to be set as a “slave”.
Each drive brand and even types
within a brand differ in the way this
is done.
Finally, if fitting a SCSI drive, you
really do need to refer to the manufacturer’s data for the correct settings
(see separate panel).
Once the jumpers are selected or
checked, put the drive aside for a
moment.
Slide the drawer from the frame
and remove its top and bottom metal
covers. At first glance, there appears
to be no easy way to do this because
there are no screws but all you have
to do is gently prise the cover off the
drawer (even a fingernail will do it).
Inside the drawer, you will find a
little bag of screws, the front lock keys
and a bag of silica gel which says “do
not eat” (so don’t – but remember to
dispose of it where the littlies won’t
get at it either!). You will also see
two cables – a flat ribbon data cable
and a 4-pin power cable. In 99.9%
of circumstances, they are the only
connections needed.
Connect the cables to the drive before placing the drive into the drawer
– it’s much easier. You will note a
red stripe along one edge of the data
cable – this is pin 1 (usually, but not
always, marked on the disc drive PC
board). In nearly all cases, the drive
will mount the right way up (ie, PC
board to the bottom), with the data
cable the right way around.
Next, fit the power cable. It is usual
for the red lead of the power cable
to be closest to the red lead of the
data cable; in any case, the plug and
socket are keyed which make getting
it the wrong way around quite difficult. (Note that we said difficult, not
impossible: forcing the cable in the
wrong way around will have a briefly
spectacular effect as your drive makes
its way to hard disc heaven with a
puff of smoke and that rather horrible
smell of money burning!).
Now ease your hard disc drive into
the drawer. Older style half height
drives are a tight fit, newer low
profile drives are easier. Move the
drive backwards and forwards until
its mounting holes line up with the
Step 5: secure the frame in the drive bay using the mounting screws supplied.
mounting holes in the drawer. Using
the screws supplied secure the drive
to the drawer.
Finally, pop the top and bottom covers back on – and that part is finished.
Mounting the carrier frame
This step is virtually identical to
fitting a standard hard disc drive to a
PC. If you haven’t done that before,
the steps are as follows (obviously we
don’t have to tell you to turn off your
computer and remove its cover!):
• Select a suitable drive bay. It will
need to accept a standard 5-25-inch
half-height disc drive and it will need
to be close enough to the first, or master, disc drive to connect to the second
socket on the data cable. If you find
your data cable has only one socket,
you’re up for a new data cable. Don’t
worry, they’re cheap! Also note that
either socket can be used for either
hard disc drive, so if you have to swap
the connector over to make it reach,
no problem.
• Remove the faceplate covering
the chosen drive bay. This faceplate
Should you use an old hard disc drive?
W
HILE WE HAVE talked about
resurrecting an old drive, there
are a few points to keep in mind.
Old drives are quite possibly
poorer performers than to
d ay’s
drives, so you might find that disc-intensive tasks take a little longer to
do. However, we don’t see that as
too much of a problem.
We’ve already mentioned possible incompatibility problems. That’s
for you to discover all for yourself
(lucky you!).
The area of most concern is that
the drive might be worn out (or
close to it). With the price of hard
discs today a tiny fraction of what
they were a few years ago, you
might find that it is a lesser risk to
invest in a new drive, particularly if
important information is to be stored
on it. There are some real bargain
drives around – one or two gigabyte
drives for just a couple of hundred
dollars or so!
Having said that, there is still a
case for using an old drive. If it spins
up properly when it’s turned on (ie,
the bearings aren’t shot), if it doesn’t
report loads of bad sectors, if it
doesn’t make a ghastly scratching
sound when you turn it on or off (ie,
the heads aren’t contacting the disc
surface), and if you can run Scandisk or Checkdisk and get a clean
bill of health after the full surface
scan, then go ahead and use it.
Perhaps, though, there is even
more of a case for updating your
current drive to a new higher-capacity model and using the old one
as the transportable!
October 1997 7
Step 6: fit the disc drive to the drawer and fit the top and bottom covers. You can
leave the covers off if they foul the drive – see text.
Step 7: slide the drawer with the disc into the frame and push it all the way
home so that it mates with the socket on the carrier.
is usually plastic (occasionally metal)
and either pops out or has screws
holding it in place. Sometimes,
though, there is a metal plate which
needs to be unscrewed or broken
away from the main case (the latter
is occasionally used on “tower” cases
which have a separate, removable
front panel).
• Check to see if you have a spare
power cable fitted with a large 4-pin
white plastic plug. If you don’t, you
will need to buy a “Y” adaptor – a
8 Silicon Chip
power cable with a socket and two
plugs. These are readily available
but prices vary enormously. We nor
mally pay about $5 for these but some
stores have asked us, unsuccessfully
of course, for $24.95 each! To fit this,
simply remove the same type of power plug from some other device (eg,
a floppy drive), plug this into the Y
adaptor socket and push one of the
plugs back into the device you just
took it from. The other plug, naturally,
goes to the mobile rack frame.
• Carefully push the data cable
socket onto its mating plug on the
frame. Remember that the red stripe
goes to pin 1 (clearly marked on the
back of the frame). Check that you
have the socket correctly mated otherwise the drive won’t work.
• Now it’s time to slide the frame
into its correct position in the drive
bay, so that the front of the frame is
flush with the front of the computer
case or with other drives. Most drive
bays have long slots in them to allow
you to accurately position the frame.
Install two screws on each side to
hold it in place and nip the screws up
firmly. It is important that you don’t
skimp on the screws here because
the sides of the frame need to be held
rigidly in position so that the drawer
slides in and out properly.
If your drive bay is the type that
uses sliders which clip into place (as
on one of our computers), you have no
choice but to use them but these can
cause a bit of a problem. The pressure
of the spring clips causes the edges of
the frame to flex inwards, making it
difficult to fit the drawer. However,
the drawer will slide in with a little
jiggling and juggling!
• Slide the drawer containing the
disc drive into the bay to check that
it fits correctly. If you find that it is
too tight a fit, perhaps because you
are using an older drive which is a
tight fit in the drawer, it is perfectly
acceptable to use the drive without
its top and bottom covers. You might
be sacrificing a little disc protection
when it is outside the computer but
you will save the vertical space. The
drive would probably be happier
working without covers anyway – it
would stay cooler, although the covers
are well ventilated.
• Make a final check to ensure you
haven’t dislodged any other cables –
it’s very easy to do, particularly when
working in confined spaces and especially so with easily removed cables
such as on floppy drives.
Setting up the drive
If you are simply making the only
drive in your machine removable
then you won’t have any setting-up
to do, because electrically nothing’s
changed. But if you’re adding another
drive, as we did, it’s a slightly different story. And it also depends on the
age of your computer.
On a modern computer with a
“Plug‘n’Play” BIOS and Windows
95, you may find that the disc is auto
detected when you turn the computer
on. Watch the screen carefully before the Windows 95 sign-on screen
appears.
Even if that doesn’t work, many
new computers have an option in the
CMOS Setup to auto detect hard discs
(see below). Try it!
On an older computer (eg, a 486
or older), you’re going to have to tell
it that you’ve changed the disc by
going into the CMOS setup just after
you turn the machine on. With most
ma
chines, you will probably get a
message such as “Press DEL to enter
setup” not too long after the machine
is turned on.
Even older machines such as 386s
and earlier (what – you’re still using
one?) were not quite so standardised.
Watch the screen or refer to your
manual to see which keys you need to
press to enter setup. Control +, Alt +,
Control Escape and Alt Escape were
often used but there were others!
When you enter Setup you are usually presented with a range of options.
The one you want is typically the
first one: “Standard CMOS Setup”.
Press enter and next you will see a
warning screen threatening you with
mortal injuries if you dare to make
any adjustments. Ignore it!
The next screen shows you what
the computer believes is fitted – for
example, a 3.5-inch “A” drive, a 5.5inch “B” drive and a 980Mb “C” drive
(hard disc) but with nothing listed for
hard drive “D” (the new removable
drive). You must manually change
the “D” drive parameters to that of the
hard disc you’ve just fitted. Where do
you get those parameters? That’s why
we had you write them down before!
Note that the arrow keys get you to
where you want on the screen, while
page up and page down modify the
parameters. You will need to change
drive “D” to a type 47, the option
which allows you to manually enter
parameters.
Enter the parameters asked for,
except for the size. Setup works this
out for you and you should check this
to confirm that you listed everything
else correctly. This done, follow any
instructions on the screen to leave
the setup area (you typically press
the “Escape” key) and return to the
opening CMOS setup screen. This
time, select the option which writes
SCSI – What Does It Mean?
as “scuzzi”)
SCSI (pronounced
stands for Small Com-
puter Systems Interface
and is a very popular method of
connecting peripherals to a PC.
Apart from its speed (the latest
SCSI disc drives are very fast), it
has the advantage of being device
independent – you can connect up
to seven SCSI devices on the one
cable without having to worry about
what those devices are.
You could have a scanner, tape
backup, a hard disc or two, CDROM reader or writer and so on in
the chain. As long as each device
has its own unique identification,
the system can cope with it. The
devices can be internal or external
and are simply “daisy chained” from
one to the next.
External devices have the luxury
of being removable. As long as the
cabling is properly terminated at
either end, you can remove SCSI
devices from the system at will.
One advantage SCSI drives have
over standard (IDE) drives is that
it is very easy to assign new drive
letters to the drives, particularly
under Windows 95 and Windows
NT. If you have a Plug‘n’Play BIOS ,
your PC won’t tie itself in knots when
you remove an IDE drive. However,
it can be mentally flexing, to say
the least, to try to remember what
drive is what because the operating
system automatically assigns the
next letter of the alphabet to the next
drive it finds.
With SCSI drives, though, you can
change the drive letter to any letter
of the alphabet (except, of course,
those already is use). If you make
your SCSI disc drive “X”, for example, it will stay drive X.
You set the drive letter through
the setup to CMOS memory (probably
something like “Write to CMOS and
exit”).
You will need to reboot the computer for the changes to take effect. Once
done, check to see that everything
works as intended. (If you enter the
CMOS setup again, just for a “looksee”, you should find that “D” drive
the Control Panel. To do this, double-click System, select Device Manager, click on the hard disc you want
to change and check the “removable
drive” box. The system will now allow
you to change the drive letter by
entering the same (wanted) drive
letter in the start and end reserved
drive letter boxes. When you reboot,
the drive will have that drive letter.
That’s one of the advantages. The
downside is that most SCSI devices, especially hard disc drives, are
significantly more expensive than
equivalent IDE drives.
One point to note about SCSI is
that it requires proper termination:
the devices on the ends of the
chain need to be terminated, either
physically with a terminator or via a
DIP switch on the device PC board
(some devices may use software
termination). If they aren’t terminated, operation is at best unreliable
(usually it won’t work at all) and if
the wrong devices are terminated,
those following on the chain have
little chance of working.
Just remember that the SCSI
controller card is itself a SCSI device
and if it is at the end of the SCSI
cable (eg, if you have all internal or
all external SCSI devices), it must
be terminated just like the SCSI
device at the other end of the cable.
If you have a mixture of internal and
external SCSI devices, the card is
simply another SCSI device on the
cable and must not be terminated.
SCSI devices have a reputation
(only partially deserved) for requiring more setting up than, say, IDE
disc drives. Typically, a SCSI controller card needs to be fitted and
drivers loaded to run that card. Once
installed, though, a SCSI system is
very reliable and easy to use.
is now listed. You can then exit the
CMOS setup without changing anything by selecting the “Do Not Write
to CMOS and Exit” option. It sounds
like double dutch but that’s the one
you want).
What if it doesn’t work?
Woops! Something’s wrong – an
October 1997 9
How Many Drives Can you Fit?
O
N OLDER (most 486 or earlier)
machines, only two IDE drives
can be fitted – one as a primary, the
other as a slave.
If your computer is a modern type
(ie, Pentium or equivalent), you can
normally run up to four IDE hard
discs. Two can be run in the normal
“master/slave” arrangement we have
talked about here on the “Primary
IDE Port” and another two can be
similarly run on the “Secondary
IDE Port”.
On a Pentium, the portable drive
could be fitted as either the Primary Master (if it is the only drive) or,
error message such as “HDD or controller failure” usually means that
the parameters are incorrect or that
the cable or jumper is wrong. Try
going back into the CMOS Setup and
telling the computer you don’t have
a “D” drive and see if that removes
the error message. If it does, you have
a problem with the drive. Check its
connections or jumpers and if these
are OK, check the drive parameters.
If you don’t get any joy, tell CMOS
you have no hard disc drives and try
booting from a bootable floppy - just
to start eliminating possibilities. You
might have accidentally dislodged
the floppy disc cable for example, or
replaced the cable incorrectly if you
had to temporarily remove it.
If your computer used to work with
one hard disc but now doesn’t work
with two, restore it to what it was
(ie, disconnect the new drive) and
try booting again. If it doesn’t work,
the chances are pretty good that you
have dislodged a cable.
Go back over all the cables and the
changes you’ve made – a common
fault is when power cables are not
pushed in far enough, especially a
plug and socket (eg, the ”Y” adaptor).
Systematically eliminate possibilities
and you should find the fault.
If a known good drive simply
refuses to work, you could have incompatibility problems. This mainly
occurs with older drives. There have
been many cases when a drive will not
work with a certain model (or models)
of another brand and yet will work
with other models or brands.
10 Silicon Chip
assuming a two drive system, the
Primary Slave OR the Secondary
Master. Note that most CD-ROM
drives these days are also an IDE
device and may take the place of a
hard disc drive. They are jumpered
as master or slave in exactly the
same way as a hard disc.
If you have an older machine and
wish to run two disc drives and a
CD-ROM drive, the easiest way to
do it is to buy a sound card with an
IDE CD-ROM driver. They cost very
little (from about $50) and give you
sound capability as well as freeing
up one of your IDE ports.
In some cases, a drive combination
might not work on one computer but
the same setup will work fine on
another computer. Fortunately, disc
drive incompatibilites are fairly rare
these days but it can occasionally be
a problem if using an old drive!
What if you want to use
the computer and the drive
is elsewhere?
In a modern computer, this won’t
matter unless, of course, the drive is
the only one in which case you’re
up the proverbial creek! Yes, it will
probably give you an error message
saying that the drive is not there – just
say thank you very much and keep
working!
In the case of computers which
auto detect, it will auto detect that
there is nothing there and continue
on its merry way. Next time you plug
the drive in, it will auto detect that it
is back again (naturally, you’d never
think of removing or inserting the
drive with the computer power on,
would you?).
Note that these comments only
apply if the disc drive is the same
type, master or slave, on both computers. If you want to change from
being a master drive on one computer
to a slave drive on another, you will
almost definitely have to change the
jumper to suit.
Security
Using the mobile rack also has
major pluses as far as security of information is concerned. If you handle
sensitive or valuable information, you
would be aware of the problems in
ensuring that only your eyes see it!
Even worse, industrial espionage is on
the increase and we’ve all heard the
horror stories about hackers getting
in to company information.
With the Mobile Rack, when you go
home at night, the whole hard disc can
go home with you. No-one, not even
the world’s best hacker, can open up
your files if they aren’t there!
Even if you don’t have this type of
problem, you should have a backup
copy of your company data off site.
The mobile rack makes it delightfully
simple because as far as the computer
is concerned, the hard disc it contains
is just that – another hard disc that
can be copied to. When the backup
is done you simply remove it for safe
storage.
Looking at the other side of the coin
for a moment, what about the security
of the hard disc itself? Doesn’t making
it removable make it easier to steal?
Thankfully, the makers of the mobile
rack are one step ahead: they’ve included a keyed lock which holds the
frame (and therefore the disc drive)
firmly in place. To remove, simply
turn the key and withdraw it.
Be warned, though – just like all
those millions of disc boxes out there
which secretaries around the world
dutifully lock up each night, it would
appear that one key fits all. So if you
have a really determined thief . . .
(nah, forget it: if he’s that determined
he’d simply knock off the whole damn
SC
computer, anyway!).
Where To Buy the HDD Carrier & Frame
The “Mobile Rack” (or removable hard disc carrier & frame) is available from
any Jaycar Electronics store. It comes in two versions: (1) Cat. XC-4670 for
IDE drives; and (2) Cat. XC-4671 for SCSI drives. Both versions cost $39.95.
For further information, contact Jaycar Electronics, 8-10 Leeds St, Rhodes,
NSW 2130. Phone (02) 9743 5222; fax (02) 9743 2066.
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