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COMPUTERS:
Adding memory
To your PC
Troubleshooting
Your PC; Pt.4
Want to add some more memory to your
computer but don’t know what type to use?
This article will help you decide which type
of memory is right for you.
By BOB DYBALL
Selecting RAM for your system used
to be simple. Neglecting the video
card, there were just two choices:
static RAM for the cache memory and
regular DRAM, or dynamic RAM, for
the main memory. Unfortunately, it’s
no longer quite so easy.
As computer speeds have increased,
so the memory choices have become
more complicated. There are now several different types of DRAM and it’s
important to select the correct type if
you are adding extra memory to your
computer, otherwise it may not work
correctly. As for video RAM, well that’s
a whole new ballgame again.
But that’s not the end of the story.
40 Silicon Chip
The system motherboard will also
have an EPROM (erasable programmable read only memory), which
contains all the BIOS settings so that
the machine can boot up. And some
of the expansion cards may include an
EPROM or a ROM as well.
As you might expect with computers, memory has it’s fair share of
buzzwords and jargon to confuse the
uninitiated. In this article, we’ll sort
out what the jargon really means so
that you can decide what sort of RAM
is best for your PC.
RAM versus ROM
As most people know, the word
RAM stands for “Random Access
Memory”. This type of memory is
known as read/write memory because
you can both read data from it and
write data to it (although not necessarily at the same time). This contrasts
with ROM, which is read only memory except when it is initially being
programmed.
The main differences between Static
RAM, Dynamic RAM and ROM chips
are summarised in Table 1.
It’s worth noting that there are a
number of different types of DRAM
and ROM. To make matters more interesting, when someone says “ROM”, it
might be a mask programmed ROM (ie,
one programmed when it was made in
the factory) or it could be an EPROM
or Flash ROM and they are simply
using “ROM” as a generic term. Most
motherboards now have a Flash ROM
for their BIOS.
Older PCs either had a PROM or an
EPROM for the system BIOS. A PROM
(Programmable Read Only Memory)
is designed to be programmed just
once. An EPROM (erasable PROM),
on the other hand, has a small window which allows you to erase the
contents by exposing the chip to UV
light for a short time. A special UV
lamp is normally used for this but
it is also possible that a chip might
be erased, or partly erased, when
exposed to sunlight or artificial light
over a longer period of time. For this
reason, the window is usually covered
with an opaque sticker to prevent
accidental erasure.
The E2ROM is an electrically
erasable PROM. This means that the
memory can be erased electrically,
which makes it more convenient to
reprogram. A Flash ROM is an E2ROM
and most motherboards now use this
type of device to store the system BIOS
since it is easy to update it with new
BIOS versions. All you have to do is
run a small DOS utility to load the new
version code into BIOS.
A word of warning here – you must
be careful when repro
gramming a
Flash ROM because if you mess things
up and the new code is crook, the
computer might not boot. Similarly
you’ll be in for trouble if you interrupt
the writing to a Flash ROM. It may be
possible to “hot-swap” the crook unit
with the Flash ROM from an identical
motherboard after boot up and then
re-burn it but you cannot rely on this
somewhat dodgy procedure to work
all the time.
If you don’t have a couple of similar
PCs around to try this trick, then you
will need to remove the Flash ROM
and have it reprogrammed in a special
EPROM programmer instead.
Table 1: RAM vs. ROM
Feature
Retains information when
power is removed?
Power Consumption
Dynamic RAM
(DRAM)
Static RAM
(SRAM)
ROM
No
No
Yes
Moderate
H i gh
Low
Access Speed
Fast
Very Fast
S l ow
Main Use In PC
System RAM
L2 Cache RAM
BIOS ROM
of capacitors etched into the silicon of
the IC. Like all capacitors, these “leak”
and, after a couple of seconds, will
“forget” what was in them. To prevent
this, the memory cells are refreshed
every few millisec
onds (during the
“refresh cycle”), so that the charges
on the tiny capacitors in the chip are
constantly topped up.
The obvious drawback of this type
of memory is the overhead dictates
of the refresh cycle. Essentially, for
a part of the overall time, the system
will be busy doing nothing except
refreshing the memory. Most BIOSes,
however, do have options to modify
what happens in DRAM. For example, some have a “hidden refresh”
that’s carried out while the PC is also
busy elsewhere. Other BIOSes can
allow a change in the time between
refreshes.
Note, however, that while it’s often
possible to squeeze an extra ounce of
performance out of a PC by increasing
the refresh time, you should be careful
here. Too long a time between refreshes
can result in errors as Alzheimer's sets
in – the memory literally “forgets”
the data written to it before the next
refresh cycle comes along.
Video RAM
Do you remember “CGA snow?”
Back before VGA, in the days of EGA,
MGA and CGA video cards, you would
often see some flickering on the screen.
This was caused by interruptions to
the video card when it was scanning
the video RAM to produce its screen
output.
This problem was overcome in time
by better video drivers, better video
cards and faster memory, especially
through newer “dual-ported” memory
chips (more on this shortly). By the
way, if the RAM on your VGA card
can be expanded, check upgrade costs
Static RAM or SRAM
The memory cells or individual
storage locations in static RAM are
made up of TTL gates. Its main advantage is that it is fast but there are
drawbacks. The larger the chip the
more power it consumes and the more
heat it must dissipate. And that adds
considerably to the cost, as well as
placing some restraint on the size of
the memory chip.
Because SRAM is considerably
more expensive than DRAM, it is
used in places that need moderate
amounts of high-speed RAM, such
as the motherboard level 2 cache (or
secondary cache).
Dynamic memory or DRAM
The memory cells in DRAM consist
The RAM used on video cards is often dual-ported which means that it can be
written to and read from at the same time to speed up operation. This 3-year old
Diamond Stealth card uses 2Mb of VRAM, with provision for another 2Mb to be
plugged into adjacent sockets.
August 1998 41
Table 2: Matching RAM To Your Motherboard
CPU
Memory Bus
S peed
Non Parity?
Parity?
DRAM Type
486 (1)
33MHz
Yes (5)
Yes (5)
FP DRAM
Pentium (2)
66MHz
Yes (5)
Yes (5)
FP DRAM
Pentium (3)
Up to 83MHz
Yes (6)
N/A
ED O D R A M
Pentium II (4)
66-125MHz
Yes (6)
N/A
SDRAM (7)
Notes:
(1). With the exception of a couple of 486 chipsets designed for EDO,
you should use FP DRAM to avoid instability in these PCs.
(2). Older Pentium PCs will usually use FP DRAM.
(3). If supported, EDO RAM will be faster than FP DRAM, though EDO
RAM might prove unstable at 83MHz (or higher) memory bus speeds.
(4). SDRAM DIMMs are the memory of choice for faster Pentium based
PCs.
(5). Some older 486 PCs have no option to disable parity, so memory
upgrades require parity SIMMs. More recent 486 PCs and most Pentiums
that support parity will often have an option to disable it (this is saved in
CMOS and changed in the BIOS setup options).
(6). Many motherboard chipsets, including the popular Intel Triton, no
longer support parity and default to a non-parity mode. You can easily
mix parity SIMMs and non-parity SIMMs in these PCs because parity
is ignored anyway.
(7) Make sure you specify that these are for a Pentium II, since they will
usually need to have “Serial Presence Detect” EEPROMs. If you don’t
use this type of SDRAM module in a Pentium II machine, the memory
won’t work.
before you buy. Buying the extra RAM
with the card is often cheaper than
buying it separately later on.
As you increase the resolution and
number of colours with newer VGA
cards, using ordinary DRAM on the
card can create all sorts of problems.
Between the DRAM needing to be
refreshed, your system trying to write
to it and the VGA card trying to write
to the screen to display the picture,
things can either get slow or ugly, or
both!
The factor here is called memory
bandwidth – there is simply not
enough of it to spare with the slower
types of RAM at higher resolutions.
So, to overcome this problem, special
types of RAM have been introduced
to cater for the needs of VGA cards.
These include VRAM, WRAM and
SGRAM.
means that it can read and write data
at the same time. This makes VRAM
ideal for use in video cards because
the RAMDAC (ie, the digital to analog
converter) can read the data it needs
to display the next pixel without any
interruption – even if the system is
busily updating the same areas of RAM
containing this data.
If you are upgrading a VGA card that
has VRAM, check the user manual for
the VRAM chips you need for your
board as there are many different configurations on the market. If you have
lost the manual, check the other chips
nearby as the empty RAM upgrade
sockets on the VGA card will usually
be in parallel with the existing chips.
Apart from VGA cards, VRAM is
also often used for image capture,
in high speed printers and for signal
processing.
VRAM
WRAM, SGRAM, MDRAM
Ordinary RAM doesn’t allow reads
and writes to be carried out simultaneously. However, VRAM or video RAM
does, as it is “dual ported”, which
Often, the newest types of video
RAM are “vamped up” versions of the
latest DRAM, sometimes with some
extra features thrown in. Usually,
42 Silicon Chip
it’s just the latest DRAM but made
dual-ported and given a fancy new
acronym. For example, WRAM (or
“Win-dowed RAM”) is simply dual
ported RAM for use on VGA cards.
It’s based on EDO type RAM, which
means that it offers better performance
than older types based on FP (fast
page) DRAM. MDRAM is Multi-Bank
Dynamic RAM.
SGRAM (Synchronous Graphic
RAM) is single (not dual-ported)
SDRAM that is designed for use on
VGA cards. Many SGRAM chips include on-chip functions to speed up
line drawing operations!
Parity
In addition to handling data bits,
some DRAM modules use an extra bit
of memory to check for errors. This
type of memory is known as parity
RAM. Most companies now ship PCs
without parity RAM but many older
PCs can and do use parity memory.
Once it was unusual to find a PC
without parity RAM. Then, a few
years ago and not long after SIMMs
were introduced, some manufacturers
found that they could shave costs by
replacing the parity chip on the SIMM
with another chip known as a “parity
generator”. They could then sell this
RAM cheaper than genuine parity
RAM or for the same price but at a
greater profit.
With genuine parity RAM, the system detected any memory errors and
warned if there was a problem. Conversely, if a parity generator was used,
a parity check always returned an OK
result, even if it wasn’t. This meant
that the user wouldn’t be warned
of any problems until much further
down the track, when the problems
had become much worse and affected
the PC quite dramatically.
These days, memory is considered
very reliable and virtually all systems
ship with non-parity RAM. On some
motherboards, there is provision in the
system BIOS to enable or disable parity
checking and it’s simply a matter of
selecting the correct option to suit the
type of RAM installed.
DIMMs & SIMMs
Two other terms that you will commonly hear in relation to memory are
“DIMMs” and “SIMMs”. These terms
simply refer to the type of module
that the memory is mounted on (the
packaging, if you like). SIMM stands
for “single inline memory module”,
while DIMM stands for “dual inline
memory module”. In plain English, a
SIMM has a single row of pins and a
DIMM has two rows of pins.
The buzzword used to be “DIP”,
which is an acronym for “dual inline
package”. This type of memory (now
obsolete) looked just like conventional ICs and the chips were slotted
en masse into rows of sockets on the
motherboard, sometimes occupying
up to a third of the total area. Unfortunately, the DIP sockets sometimes
became dusty and corroded over time
and the overall reliability suffered
because of the sheer number of RAM
ICs requiring sockets.
SIMMs come in two basic sizes: 30pin and 72-pin. Both types are keyed
with a notch at one end, so that they
can only be installed the right way
around on the motherboard. The 72pin SIMMs are used in more recent
equipment but there are still plenty
of older 286/386 PCs and 486 PCs that
accept 30-pin SIMMs.
Most 30-pin SIMMs used for PCs
had 9 bits (8 data bits plus 1 bit for
parity). 72-pin SIMMs are perhaps
the most common RAM package used
today but are now being superseded
by DIMM SDRAM.
DIMMs
Featuring 64-bit data, the 168-pin
DIMM package has been used for
some time in the Apple Mac and is
currently the standard type of RAM
for most new PCs.
Since the popular SDRAM (synchronous DRAM) usually comes in
a DIMM package, the terms DIMM
and SDRAM are often used inter
changeably. A “DIMM” is merely the
JEDEC standard package, just like 30
or 72-pin SIMMs, and can come fitted
with FP (fast page), EDO (extended
data out) or SDRAM chips.
Common DRAM types
Although SIMMs and now DIMMs
have made it easier and cheaper to
upgrade RAM than ever before, you
do have to choose what type of DIMM
or SIMM memory you need. And that
depends on your motherboard. Let’s
take a look at the three basic types:
(1) FP or “Fast Page” RAM: part of
the delay in getting data out of RAM
is simply getting the addresses loaded
into the RAM to begin with. This lead
to the development of FP DRAM which
provides faster reads from the same
“row” (or page) than conven
tional
DRAM. Many older PCs use FP DRAM
but later, faster PCs will experience
RAM access bottlenecks because the
RAM is unable to keep up.
(2) EDO or “Extended Data Out”
RAM: faster than FP DRAM, 72-pin
EDO SIMMs are currently the most
common type of DRAM used in Pentium family motherboards. Although
EDO DRAM outperforms FP DRAM,
your system needs to “know” how to
“talk” to it – ie, both the motherboard
and the system BIOS must be designed
for the job.
Unfortunately, most 486 PC users
must upgrade using FP DRAM since
using EDO would cause timing problems. On the other hand, if you’ve
upgraded a Pentium processor or if
you’re doing a little overclocking to
tweak it up a notch, you should consider using SDRAM since higher clock
speeds could run EDO DRAM close to
(or beyond) its speed limits.
(3) SDRAM or “Synchronous
DRAM”: SDRAM is the latest and
greatest but it’s not for everyone.
If you already have EDO RAM and
don’t have stability problems, stick
with it. On the other hand EDO RAM
might not be too stable at bus speeds
of 83MHz, while SDRAM with the
correct speed rating can run at up to
100MHz or more.
Although the most common DIMMs
used in PCs are 3.3V unbuf
fered
SDRAM types, Pentium II users should
check when buying DIMM RAM as
they will likely need it with a “Serial
Presence Detect” EEPROM. Ordinary
DIMM memory might not be suitable
in such machines.
Which type of memory?
So which type of RAM should you
buy if you want to add extra memory
to your PC’s motherboard? The obvious answer is check the manual. The
same goes if you wish to add memory
Table 3: Number Of SIMMs
CPU
DRAM Type No. Per Bank
386S X
30-pin SIMM
2
386D X
30-pin SIMM
4
486
30-pin SIMM
4
486
72-pin SIMM
1
Pentium
72-pin SIMM
2
Pentium 168-pin DIMM
1
to a video card (it really pays to store
those manuals in a safe place).
If you’ve lost the motherboard manual, Table 2 will provide a useful guide
as to what type of RAM should work
in most situations. You should also
check the RAM that’s already fitted to
the machine for further clues.
You can usually identify the speed
of the DRAM fitted to your motherboard by looking at the labelling
on the individual memory chips.
Usually, you will see a number such
as -60 or -70 after the main type number and this gives the speed of the
RAM in nanoseconds; ie, 60ns and
70ns respectively for the examples
just quoted. Sometimes, however,
you have to multiply the number
shown by 10ns; eg, if you just see -6,
the speed of the DRAM is 6 x 10 =
60ns.
The above applies to both 30 and
72-pin SIMM modules and to the
older DIP RAM ICs. SDRAM is also
labelled with a rating related to the
access speed, either in x1ns or x10ns.
For example a -1 would mean 10ns. .
Installing more RAM
In 486 or earlier systems, you will
often have to go to CMOS, select standard setup, then exit and save to have
the system recognise the extra RAM
you have added to the motherboard.
In later 486 and Pentium machines,
simply adding the memory is enough
– the amount of RAM is checked each
time the machine is booted up.
The amount of RAM you should
add to an existing system depends
on the applications you wish to run.
If you are running a 486 with 4Mb
or 8Mb of memory and would like
to run Windows 95, then you should
definitely go to 16Mb or, even better,
32Mb of RAM. At this level, an upgrade in the RAM department is also
usually more cost effective than a
CPU upgrade.
Of course, a new computer with a
Pentium processor and lots of RAM
is better again but if your budget
won’t stretch that far, a simple RAM
upgrade to your existing system can
be very worthwhile. RAM is now
quite cheap, so there’s no reason to
run a system that’s crippled by lack
of memory.
Table 3 is a general guide to the type
of DRAM used in various computers
and shows the number of modules
needed in each memory “bank”. Some
August 1998 43
The system RAM is plugged into sockets on your motherboard, as shown here.
Be careful when handling the memory modules, as they are easily damaged by
static electricity.
older motherboards will require you
to fit the same size RAM modules to
all banks, while others might allow
you to have different size modules.
You must, however, fill all the slots
in a bank.
It’s generally OK to mix parity and
non-parity RAM in the same bank but
if you do this, be sure to disable parity
checking in the system BIOS. Be careful here – many older 486 and earlier
machines have no option to disable
parity, so you have no choice but to
use parity RAM in these systems.
As before, the table is a guide only
– you should consult the manual for
the correct memory configuration for
your particular motherboard. That’s
because the requirements can vary
from one motherboard to another. For
example, in PCs running a fast CPU,
extra RAM might be needed in a bank
to allow “interleaving” to increase the
effective RAM access speed.
If upgrading VGA card RAM, again
check the user manual for the type of
RAM chips required. If you have lost
the book, check the RAM chips that
are already on the card. These should
be quite easy to find as they will be in
parallel with the empty RAM upgrade
sockets.
Troubleshooting
If adding extra memory and other
hardware, try to do things one step at
a time. Don’t go adding a new VGA
44 Silicon Chip
card, a faster CPU and extra RAM all
at once! Also, try to use the same type
of RAM in all the memory banks; eg
all FP or all EDO.
Many motherboard chipsets do not
allow FP and EDO RAM to be mixed
in the same bank, although some
might allow EDO in one bank and FP
in another. If you start getting errors,
try going back to using the same type
of SIMMs in all banks.
Similarly, if you have a motherboard
that takes both DIMM and SIMM memory modules, don’t be surprised if you
can’t use them together. Your motherboard manual will usually advise you
of any such limitations.
Now let’s take a look at some of
the more common problems that are
encountered with memory upgrades.
(1). Parity problems: most new
motherboards will not even have
a parity option, as many chipsets
no longer have this feature. On the
other hand, a parity error can occur
in an older PC if you mix parity and
non-parity SIMMs.
On some systems, you will not be
able to get into the CMOS setup after
installing non-parity RAM into a
system that’s set for parity checking
(ie, it creates a catch-22 situation by
not letting you into the CMOS setup
to turn parity checking off). The trick
here is to get into the CMOS setup
and disable parity checking before the
non-parity RAM is installed.
It’s generally not too hard to distinguish parity RAM from non-parity
RAM. Non-parity SIMMs will usually
be fitted with 2, 4 or 8 DIP chips, while
parity memory will instead have 3, 5
or 9 chips.
(2). System fails to recognise extra
RAM: it’s impossible to install SIMM
or DIMM RAM modules back to front.
Both 30 and 72-pin SIMMs are keyed
with a small notch at one end, while
DIMMs are keyed by having asymmetrical plug-in connectors.
A common “fault” is that the extra
RAM is not recognised because the
modules are not fully clipped in. If you
strike problems, check that the SIMM
or DIMM modules are correctly seated
in their connectors and that they are
retained by the clips.
(3). System recognises some extra
RAM but not all of it: it is usually
quite OK to upgrade a system with
different brands of RAM and even use
RAM with different speeds, as long as
you remember not to mix EDO and FP
RAM in this way. Your system will
recognise the lowest common denominator though, so mixing a 4Mb SIMM
with an 8Mb SIMM in one bank will
result in only 4Mb being recognised.
Mixing RAM modules with different speeds, say 60ns and 70ns, is not
the evil thing some people make it
out to be – just don’t try running it all
at 60ns! In normal use, you can only
expect the system to work reliably at
the slower speed (ie, 70ns), so be sure
to select this memory speed in the
SC
CMOS setup.
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