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SERVICEMAN'S LOG
All the same – only different
It’s not often that one set of notes deals almost
exclusively with the same make of set.
However, that’s the case this month because I
had quite a few Sony TV sets to fix. Even so,
each model is still a separate device, with its
own quirks and problems.
It’s really been quite a month, with
TV set repairs predominating. Computer repairs tend to be confined to
older ma
chines – machines which
their owners can’t bear to throw away.
It is hard to overcome the perception
that most electronic appliances have
a life-span of around 10 years and
computers only about three years.
This is not because they are not well
made or because the manufacturers
have incorporated “built-in obsolescence”. Instead, it is dominated by
the demand for more features and, of
course, faster operation – all ultimately involving the latest technology. I am
happy to oblige by fixing older devices, provided the customer is prepared
to accept the non-availability or high
cost of spare parts.
As already stated, this month I dealt
with quite a few Sony TV sets. These
are normally very reliable sets and
the number of repairs that came in
simply reflects their popularity in
the marketplace. Unfortunately, apart
from the brandname, the only thing
they had in common was the diffi-
Fig.1: the
microcontroller
circuitry in the
Sony KV-2064EC
colour TV set.
Disconnecting
R068 restored
all the set’s
functions but
it was the
microcontroller
(IC001) itself
that had to be
replaced.
18 Silicon Chip
culty I had in analysing and solving
the problems.
The KV-2064EC
The first Sony was a 1983 stereo TV
set, model KV-2064EC (XE 3 chassis),
with no picture. Mr Hardy had already
previously taken it to the local service
agent but had become annoyed about
the 3-week backlog, a non-refundable
quote fee of $35 upfront, and an estimate of $290. I didn’t have the heart to
tell him that some companies charge
twice that price and require even
longer queues.
Although there was no picture, the
sound was quite OK which seemed to
suggest a straightforward problem. I
don’t normally service TV sets more
than 10 years old but I thought that
this would probably be a piece of cake.
And I even had the original service
manual!
Unfortunately, my optimism was to
be short-lived.
With the set on the bench, it didn’t
take long to confirm that all the voltage
rails were spot on, that the EHT, focus
and screen voltages were correct, and
that the CRT filaments were at 6.3V
and glowing – in short, all the main
“life signs” were there. The only
voltages that were wrong were the
tube cathodes. These were high which
indicated that they were being cut off
by the video processing circuits.
I thought I would take a quick short
cut here although I don’t really recommend it to others, on the grounds
that there is a fair risk of damaging
other components. By momentarily
shorting each cathode to chassis in
turn, there should be an intense single
colour raster on the screen. This will
indicate whether there is full vertical
and horizontal scanning and if the
tube is working.
If, for example, the vertical timebase
has failed, many sets will blank off
the raster to prevent screen burn. In
this instance, all was OK, with three
bright fully scanned coloured screens.
and Q316 (BLK). The base of Q316 is
shown on the circuit diagram as 0V
but was in fact at 5V, thus switching it
hard on. Tracing back further, I found
this same 5V on pin 9 of the micro
controller IC (IC001) but this point is
also shown on the circuit diagram as
0V – see Fig.1.
Disconnecting pin 9 made no difference but removing R068 (22kΩ) which
goes from pin 9 to the 5V rail restored
everything, with a perfect picture on
the screen. The set even continued to
work OK when pin 9 was resoldered
but with R068 left disconnected.
So what is the purpose of R068 and
what does it do? Well, I really don’t
know; there is no block diagram or
description of the IC. Furthermore, the circuit shows IC001 to
be a CX519-004P but I found a
CX523-110P fitted. Worse still,
neither IC is now available as a
spare part, which isn’t unusual
for a 16-year old set.
Fortunately, I found a CX519004P in a scrapped Sony KV-2764.
When fitted, this IC held its pin 9 low
even when R068 was reconnected. I
have no idea what caused the problem, which is very frustrating – but at
least I had another satisfied customer.
Mrs Mulligan’s KV-F29SZ2
It was now time to get really technical and bring the big guns into play.
Using a signal generator and a CRO,
I soon established that the video was
getting as far as the colour decoder,
IC301 (UPC1365), but was going no
further. I checked all the waveforms
on all the pins, especially pins 19
and 23 where I measured the shape
of the horizontal pulses. Apart from
no output on pins 26, 27 & 28, out
of the RGB matrix block (which was
understandable), all was correct. The
video could be seen as far as pin 6 on
the video amplifier part of IC301.
Next, I measured the DC voltages
on this IC, concentrating on the luminance section, especially the bright
ness, contrast, blanking (BLK) and
beam current limiter (ABL) circuitry.
I found that the voltage on pin 4 was
only half the 8.5V shown on the circuit
and neither the remote controller nor
the set controls could correct it.
I now followed the circuit back
from pin 4 to transistors Q308 (ABL)
Items Covered This Month
•
•
•
•
•
Sony KV-2064EC stereo TV set
Sony KV-F29SZ2 TV set
Sony KV-2585AS TV set
Sharp SX-51F7 TV set
Sony KV-S29SN1 TV set
The next Sony lived by the sea in
a lovely unit overlooking the beach.
The only trouble was that the onshore
breezes blew the salt atmosphere right
into the back of Mrs Mulligan’s 1995
KV-F29SZ2 (G3F chassis) TV set.
When I called, she complained that
all she could receive was channel
2 and play back the video cassette
recorder. The on-screen display
showed that it was switching bands
and searching, with lots of snow on
the screen.
I checked the antenna and the video
leads and they were all OK. The VCR
could receive all channels perfectly
and from all of this, I guessed that it
was either the tuner or the IF module.
However, I would have to take it back
to the workshop.
When it finally ended up on the
bench, I removed the IF module block
and resoldered a number of suspected
dry joints around the coils and filters.
Unfortunately, this produced no miracle cures so I laid the set on its front
to provide access to the “A” board
and started making measurements.
And this provided the first clue – the
DECEMBER 1999 19
band-switching voltages to the tuner
weren’t changing, even though the
on-screen display said they were.
(Sony uses an alphabetical code to
identify various PC boards. An “A”
usually indicates the main board,
while smaller boards may be desig
nated down to “V”.)
I traced the relevant PC track back
to the microprocessor. Everything
was perfect on the underside of the
“A” board but it was a different story
on top. Although everything looked
fine from a casual glance, a closer inspection revealed that the fine copper
tracks disappeared beneath the green
solder mask.
By scraping away the mask in several places and testing with a continuity
meter, I found breaks in two of the
tracks and narrowed them down to
within a few centimetres. Connecting
links across these breaks fixed the
problems and the set could now tune
all the Band III and UHF stations.
Finally, I wiped the boards and
sprayed them with a fine mist of CRC
2-26 to try to prevent further corrosion. However, considering where the
set is located, I fear it was a fruitless
task. Almost certainly, the set will be
a write-off in a few years.
Picking up the pieces
The third Sony had been all over
the place before finally landing on my
20 Silicon Chip
bench. I hate taking on jobs like this;
inevitably, I have to fix the previous
technicians’ faults before getting on
to the real repair.
This set, a KV-2585AS, has a GP1A chassis, designated SCC-F35A-A
according to the label stuck on the
CRT metalwork. However the service
manual says the same model uses a
chassis designated as SCC-D23L-A.
It may appear that I am being pedantic but this set had spent the better part
of a year in various workshops and
many parts had been replaced – not
necessarily with the right ones. The
main question mark hung over IC601,
in the switchmode power supply. An
STRS6708 was fitted but my circuit
said it should be an STRS5941. And
just to confuse matters, another GP-1A
set that came in had an STRS5741.
In this case, the set was dead and
the main fuse was open, due to IC601
having gone short circuit between
pins 1 and 2 (ie, between collector
and emitter of the internal switching
transistor). Unfortunately, these ICs
aren’t cheap, costing around $30 each.
The chassis itself was a mess; several parts were either unsoldered or
missing and others were quite clearly
the wrong types. Fortunately, it wasn’t
difficult to identify the components
that had been replaced, from the fresh
soldered joints.
As it turned out, there were over
half a dozen incorrect parts fitted. I
replaced these with the correct types
and I also replaced the horizontal
output transistor, Q802 (2SC4927),
which had a short circuit.
Finally, I was ready to fire the set
up but as an additional precaution, I
connected a 200W globe where the
main fuse should be. The set came on
with both sound and picture but before I could measure the main voltage
rail there was a loud bang and it died
again, the globe turning very bright.
This exercise cost the horizontal
output transistor (Q802), a 1.2Ω feed
resistor (R340) and the switchmode
IC (IC601).
I replaced all these parts and I tried
again, this time using a Variac to wind
up the voltage, a 100W globe and a
meter across test point TP91 (135V) to
chassis. As a further precaution, the
base and emitter leads of Q802 were
shorted. The 100W globe lit without
stress and the voltage levelled at 139V.
As there is no control to adjust this, I
felt that the 3% error was within the
design limitation of the set.
Feeling much more confident, I removed the base-emitter short from the
horizontal output transistor and again
wound up the Variac. Once again, the
picture and sound were good and
there appeared to be no problems, although the test point was still at 139V.
It ran for over half an hour and then,
just as my back was turned, there was
another loud bang followed by silence.
There was a smell of electrical
burning and the same com
ponents
had died again. And although I hadn’t
seen what happened, I suspected the
horizontal output transformer, T851.
Once again, I had a problem deciding
which was the correct one for this set,
as the one fitted (NX-M 1601 1-439423-32) didn’t match the circuit or the
other GP-1A set on hand.
Eventually, I chose an NX-1604
1-439-416-41 and fitted it, along with
all the other parts. This time the set
came on and remained stable. I left it
on for days, keeping an eye on it, and
it performed faultlessly.
Tube failures
Just recently, I have had two cases
of picture tube failure, both in modern sets. The first was a 1995 Sony
KV-F29SZ2 G3F chassis. I was called
to this set, with the customer com
plaining that there was no blue and
that the set was “burning”. When I
arrived, the symptoms I saw were no
green and a burnt 1.5kΩ resistor, R713.
This didn’t surprise me as it fed the
green cathode. However when I asked
the customer about this, he replied
“Ah, well – I’m colour blind!”
I replaced the resistor and all
was well. However, I knew there
could be only one reason why it had
burnt and that was because the tube
(M68KZT
10X) had an intermittent
heater-to-cathode short.
I told him the bad news and suggested that he “whinge” to Sony about it
because, realistically, he had blown
$1700 odd in four years on this largescreen “deluxe” TV set. At the same
time, I pointed out that the set was
well and truly out of warranty and
so that would probably be the end of
the story.
A month later I bumped into him
in the street and asked about the
outcome. As it turned out, Sony had
instructed him to take it to one of
their service agents and if it really was
faulty, they would replace the tube –
he would have to pay for the labour
costs only. He is still in the process of
having this done.
All I can say is, good for him and
good for Sony.
The second set was even younger,
a 51cm Sharp SX-51F7. This set was
only about two years old and the
owners were watching it when it went
“boom” and died. I was expecting
something spectacular when I called
and I was surprised when I couldn’t
find anything visually wrong on the
circuit boards. All that was happen
ing was that the picture tube (ASIK
PD12SX) was arcing internally within
the gun assembly.
Obviously, it was “down to air”
which is just another way of saying
that the tube had lost its vacuum. I
checked the power supply rails and
the EHT. The HT was spot on at 115V
and the EHT did not exceed 25kV. If
either of these rails had momentarily
gone high, they might have caused a
flashover inside the tube, creating a
fracture in the glass. However, both
rails were steady and as there was no
visible damage to the tube, I could
only presume that there was a problem
with the frit seal or with a part of the
tube which cannot be seen.
I thought that this too would be
the end of the story but Sharp said
it would come to the party with a
free tube if the owners paid for an
Fig.2: a section of the V board circuitry in the Sony KV-S29SN1. IC02 is at
the top, while plug/socket CN01 is at left. Pin 3 (video) on the socket goes
to pin 8 of IC02, while pin 2 (ST TV) goes to Q03’s emitter via R13. Fuse
PS01 is at middle left, in the 8V line to the collector of Q02.
authorised service agent (not me) to
fit the tube. So full marks for customer
service to Sharp as well.
The giant Sony
As soon as I saw this next set in
Mrs Marsden’s home, I knew it was
destined for the workshop. It was a
5-year-old 73cm Sony set with a KVS29SN1 G1 chassis and with lots of
features, such as picture-in-picture,
teletext and stereo sound.
The set had developed two separate faults, one being intermittent no
picture and the other no horizontal
or vertical sync in the main picture
(although the picture-in-picture was
locked perfectly). To make matters
worse, at least from a service view
point, the set is big and heavy and
access to the main module chassis is
rather difficult.
So there I was, on a Monday morning in the workshop, contemplating
which was worse – fixing this set or
working out how the GST was going
to ruin me. I settled on the easier of
the two problems and took the back
off the set but even with a photocopy
of the service manual, it was difficult
to know where to start.
In the end, I began by confirming
that the “no sync” problem persisted
even if I injected a composite video
waveform from a colour bar generator into the AV socket. I then took a
look at the circuit diagram of the “A”
board and quickly counted at least 10
devices marked SYNC this or SYNC
that – there is even a module marked
A2 SYNC.
Unfortunately, the block diagram
was too small and too badly copied to
read. The only thing was to start somewhere – anywhere – and track down
a sync signal. After that, I should be
able to trace the signal until it disappeared and then figure out what the
problem was.
Now unless the reader has access to
a manual or circuit, this description
will not be easy to follow. It is set out,
as much as anything, to give some idea
of the frustrating chase involved in
tracking down this most elusive fault.
So bear with me.
I placed the set face down but at a
slight angle so that, by using a small
mirror, I could see part of the screen.
I then unscrewed the main chassis,
pulled it out by about 150mm and
wedged it on the bottom of the cabinet. The whole thing was incredibly
precarious and the neck of the tube
could be knocked off at any moment.
Next, I fired up the CRO and started
DECEMBER 1999 21
at the output of one of the twin IF modules. This went to transistor Q1101,
designated sync-detect, and then to
plug CN1108 and micro
controller
board “M”. (Note: Sony uses the
prefix CN to denote plug and socket
assemblies).
There was plenty of composite video signal on CN1108. Similarly, there
was video signal on transistor Q1130,
also designat
ed sync-detect, which
came from board B, plug CN301. I
then noticed IC1101, marked sync-selection, and started measuring the
inputs and outputs of six transistors,
all marked “SYNC”. In the course of all
this measuring, I encountered several
dry joints and resoldered them, each
time praying that this would fix the
22 Silicon Chip
problem. It didn’t.
To add to my woes, the picture was
now displaying the second fault - ie,
no picture – on a regular basis, thus
disrupting my efforts to track down
the missing sync signal. Trying to
follow the video often meant going to
a module where the circuit is marked
“SYNC IN” and “SYNC OUT” – the
only problem is from which board’s
perspective? There are also several
plug/socket combinations where the
plug was marked one thing and the
socket something else.
As I continued my somewhat random quest, I was also pulling out
modules, soldering them, reinstalling
them and where possible, measuring
any voltages. Gradually I was getting
a feel for the thing – the intermittent
picture appeared to be caused by the
J board/B board connection, a rather
clever plug and socket combination
(CN308/2301 CN309/2302) that also
acts as a hinge. This was either noisy
due to dirty contacts or had dry joints.
Anyway, I cleaned the contacts and
resoldered all the joints around this
assembly and that fixed the intermittent picture problem.
Getting back to the sync problem,
I eventually found that there was
video coming out of IC1101 into pin
3 of CN1113 but no video was coming
out of SYNC pin 2. This pin in turn
connects to pin 3 of CN1107 (marked
SYNC IN), after which the signal goes
to sync module A2 CN4401 and then
back to IC3501 on the A board, via
Q3512 SYNC 3, etc.
CN1113 is connected to CN01 of the
Teletext “V” board and the circuit, on
page 107 of the service manual, designates pin 2 as ST TV. I took the board
out and did a routine dry joint check
but could find nothing untoward at
first glance.
However, the circuit shows a 0.6A
fuse (PS01) connected between an 8V
rail (pin 6 of CN01) and the collector
of 5V regulator transistor, Q02 (Fig.2).
This transistor delivers a regulated 5V
at its emitter and this rail feeds pin 10
of IC02. The PS01 fuse, by the way, is
called a “circuit protector chip” and
looks like a two-legged transistor with
N15 marked on it.
Anyway, as luck would have it,
this fuse measured open circuit,
meaning that there was no 5V on pin
10 of IC02 or on the collector of Q03
(SYNC-OUT). Replacing it restored
the composite video and gave a perfect picture.
Subsequently, I was talking to a
Sony service centre a few days later.
After concluding other business, I
mentioned my saga and its victorious outcome only to be promptly
informed that it was a well-known
problem. However, my informant
did admit that he didn’t know why
it happened.
In effect, this was a classic example
of the effort which can be involved in
tracing a fault in an unfamiliar chassis.
The fault was simple enough in itself
but the symptoms provided few clues
and in the absence of someone who
says “that’s a well known problem”,
there is nothing for it but to do it the
SC
hard way.
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