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Large LCD Flat-Screen Monitors: WOW!
SILICON
CHIP
APRIL 2000
6
ISSN 1030-2662
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PROJECTS TO BUILD - SERVICING - COMPUTERS - VINTAGE RADIO - RADIO CONTROL
ROOMGUARD
NIFTY INTRUDER ALARM ADD-ON
FOR A SMOKE DETECTOR
HOTWIRE CUTTER
AUTO TACHO
SLICES THROUGH FOAM RUBBER & STYRO PLASTICS LIKE BUTTER!
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TINY, ACCURATE DIGITAL TACHOMETER FOR YOUR CAR
THERMaLOGGER
PC-PROGRAMMABLE, SELF-POWERED PORTABLE RECORDING SYSTEM
OzTrIP CAR COMPUTER
April 2000 1
BUILDING, INSTALLING AND CALIBRATING OUR NEW DESIGN
SILICON
CHIP
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SILICON
CHIP
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has requested that the page be removed to
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Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
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2 Silicon Chip
Contents
Vol.13, No.4; April 2000
FEATURES
6 Review: Jamo Concert 8 Loudspeaker System
Interested in surround sound? This loudspeaker system has to be heard to
be appreciated – by Louis Challis
10 How To Run A 3-Phase Induction Motor From 240VAC
It can be done but with some loss of efficiency – by Peter Laughton
54 Atmel’s ICE 200 In-Circuit Emulator
You can use it to develop and debug software for the AVR series of microcontrollers. It’s ideal for novices too – by Peter Smith
76 Mitsubishi’s Diamond View DV180 LCD Monitor
A Digital Tachometer For Your
Car – Page 14.
If you see it, you’ll want it – by Peter Smith
PROJECTS TO BUILD
14 A Digital Tachometer For Your Car
Compact design features a 4-digit LED display and a bargraph. It can also
provide gearchange indication and drive a rev limiter – by John Clarke
28 RoomGuard: A Low-Cost Intruder Alarm
Simple design interfaces to a battery-powered smoke detector – by John
Clarke
48 Build A Hot Wire Cutter
RoomGuard Intruder Alarm –
Page 28.
It’s easy to build and lets you cut plastic foam without mess – by Leo
Simpson
64 The OzTrip Car Computer; Pt.2
Building, installing and calibrating this brilliant new car computer – by
Robert Priestley
72 Build A Temperature Logger
Standalone unit can record up to 2048 measurements and display the
results on your PC – by Mark Roberts
SPECIAL COLUMNS
42 Serviceman’s Log
Hot Wire Cutter – Page 48.
The fault that fixed itself – by the TV Serviceman
60 Vintage Radio
The Hellier Award; Pt.3 – by Rodney Champness
DEPARTMENTS
4
53
59
82
Publisher’s Letter
Subscriptions Form
Electronics Showcase
Product Showcase
88 Ask Silicon Chip
94 Market Centre
96 Advertising Index
Temperature Logger – Page 72.
April 2000 3
PUBLISHER’S LETTER
www.siliconchip.com.au
Publisher & Editor-in-Chief
Leo Simpson, B.Bus., FAICD
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ISSN 1030-2662
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4 Silicon Chip
Internet companies an
unknown quantity
Anyone who follows the sharemarket cannot fail to be amazed at what is happening to
company valuations, depending on whether
they are perceived to have an internet strategy
or not. And even companies which are not
internet-based, such as media companies, can
also get a huge lift, because they are perceived
as being sources of “internet content”. And it
seems that every time a big conventional company such as a major retailer, bank, developer
or whatever announces a big profit lift, their
share prices tend to go down rather than up.
While if an internet company announces a loss
(as they generally do) their prices tend to rise.
Frankly, I am as baffled by the whole process as anyone else. It seems crazy to
me that a company such as Ecorp, which is really not much more than a ticketing agency and a discount broker and has yet to make any money, has a bigger
market capitalisation than say, the giant construction firm Leighton Holdings.
Or that Sausage Software should be more highly valued than Caltex which has
real refineries, service stations and so on.
It seems as though large companies which actually make goods or provide
services are no longer valued as they should be. Not that this is confined to
Australia; it is a world-wide trend at the moment.
The pundits put it down to the fact that the internet is seen to be the way of
the future and that those internet companies which are making the running now
and building a large customer base, are the ones that will be positioned to make
big profits in the future. This may well be so but many of those internet type
companies which are losing money in really large amounts right now probably
won’t exist in a few years time.
In fact it appears that the only internet companies which are presently making
any money are those that provide pornography or financial services; interesting
juxtaposition, that.
And while people can now buy all sorts of goods via the internet it does seem
as though it will be a while before a major portion of retail sales becomes netbased. There are problems with deliveries and people still do like to inspect
goods before they buy, in most cases.
So where will the boom in internet business come from? It beats me. If I had
any really worthwhile ideas on the subject I’d be out there hustling along with
all the others. For example, SILICON CHIP could make all its editorial content
available on the net as well as all sorts of related electronics information but
it would seem unlikely that enough people would be prepared to pay for the
services we could provide. It would certainly cost a heap of money to set up.
Ask yourself the question: would I be prepared to pay something like $50 to
$100 a year for wide-ranging access to SILICON CHIP material? If enough of you
answered yes (and are prepared to tell us that) we might have a good chance of
doing it. If not, then as far as we at SILICON CHIP and a great many other companies are concerned, the internet will remain a tantalising vortex, sucking in
huge numbers of people and vast quantities of money.
That is not to say that the internet itself is useless. We use it all the time and
our activities on the internet will naturally continue to grow. And email is quickly
replacing conventional mail and fax as the standard means of communication
to SILICON CHIP. Just look at all the letters in “Ask Silicon Chip” which come in
via email now.
For the moment though, the internet remains enigmatic. For those companies
and organisations who figure it out, the rewards will be large.
Leo Simpson
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April 2000 5
Hifi
Review
JAMO
Concert 8
Loudspeaker System
The Concert 8 Series main front speakers are beautifully
made and give outstanding performance for their size.
Designing loudspeakers has
tended to be more of an art than
a science. However, this review
of the Jamo Concert 8 home
theatre speakers demonstrates
that the Dolby Digital system
encompasses a lot of science
and this is incorporated into the
Jamo design.
Review by LOUIS CHALLIS
6 Silicon Chip
J
AMO HAS BUILT its reputation as Denmark’s preeminent manufacturer of loudspeakers. Having tested
many of its more innovative products, I have been consistently impressed by the manner in which they have
been prepared to break new ground in the “quest for the
Holy Grail”.
To create a good loudspeaker, you have to start with
appropriate drivers and then the cabinet also plays a significant role in the resultant sound quality. The underlying
reason for this interaction between the cabinet and its
drivers relates to cabinet resonances which degrade the
purity and integrity of the reproduced sound.
That interaction is frequently extended beyond the initial transient when the walls of the speaker cabinet exhibit
resonances with minimal damping characteristics. When
that occurs, an initial transient excitation can be extended
for periods of as much as 50 milliseconds or more. The
net result is a pronounced coloration of the sound.
There are many ways through which such problems
can be minimised. B&W in England have developed their
modular foam-filled honeycomb structure, which has
proved very effective. A simpler (and less expensive) way
is to add mass combined with an efficient damping mechanism. Jamo have adopted this strategy and applied it to
the design of some of their latest loudspeaker cabinets.
The Jamo approach involves the use of a double-plastic
layer wall structure, whose internal cavity is filled with a
special mixture of high density mineral sands and what
Jamo describes as “a resonance deadening binding agent”.
This structure results in an extremely heavy cabinet
which then displays very good control of cabinet ‘coloration’ and other less obvious anti-resonant characteristics.
Why am I bothering to tell you all this? Well, the Jamo
Concert 8 and the Jamo Concert Center are the centrepieces as it were of the 5.1 channel loudspeaker system that
I have just been reviewing. Those three speakers were
supported by a pair of small Jamo Concert Surrounds
for the rear speakers of the system, with a Jamo SW3015
Subwoofer providing the low bass content.
Home entertainment is currently undergoing a dramatic
change as more and more homes install a DVD player
with that ubiquitous 5.1 channel audio capability. The
aim of the game is to replicate your local cinema’s Dolby
Digital Sound System in your living room. While that
sounds like a tall order, it is now far easier to achieve
than one might think.
The basic elements that the latest generation of home
theatres have are: a reasonable size screen, a good DVD
player, five channels of sound amplification and the five
speakers that go with it. Lastly, a self-powered or externally powered subwoofer is desirable.
The Jamo Concert series are among the most visually
attractive home theatre loudspeaker systems currently
being marketed in Australia. Each of the cabinets has been
carefully designed to neatly fit on bookshelves, attach to
the wall or to sit on stands. The rear of the Concert Center
features foam backing, whilst the tops and bottoms of
the Concert Surrounds have a soft rubber surface which
allows them to be slid or moved without damaging them
or the supporting surface.
The Concert 8 Series left and right main front speakers
are beautifully veneered, conforming to the highest Danish
furniture standards. At just a modest 380mm high, they
achieve an outstanding level of performance for their
size. They employ a 165mm combined woofer and midrange driver that covers the frequency range from 40Hz
to 2.5kHz. A 25mm diameter fabric dome tweeter then
covers the top end and provides an unusually flat output
response.
The cabinet has a neatly contoured rear port. A rear
ported vented enclosure can be an asset or liability,
depending on how close the cabinet is placed to the
rear wall or bookshelf; too close and the low frequency
response will suffer.
The Concert 8s have four sets of speaker terminals on
the rear panel and they are designed for bi-wiring when
required. With 4Ω impedance and a claimed 180W peak
power rating, they are particularly potent, delivering
sound level peaks that frequently exceed 110dB at your
intended listening position.
The front centre speaker, or Concert Center, as it is
described, is a 3-way system with a cabinet construction
very similar to the Concert 8. It utilises a pair of 165mm
diameter woofers to cover the frequency range of 65Hz
to 1100Hz. A separate 38mm diameter mid-range driver
then covers the frequency range of 1100Hz to 3.5kHz
and a 25mm diameter tweeter serves the top end of the
spectrum. The Concert Center also has a 4Ω impedance
and is similarly designed for bi-wiring where adopted
or preferred. The rear of the cabinet features an impact
absorbent foam lining while the rest of the cabinet is
veneered.
The Concert Surround speakers are based on design
principles laid down by THX. They provide a diffuse
sound field by virtue of their V-front configuration, with
two sets of speakers on each of the angled speaker faces.
The speaker line-up comprises a pair of 130mm diameter
woofer/midrange speakers together with a pair of 25mm
diameter soft dome tweeters.
This composite speaker configuration provides a wide
lateral sound field over the frequency range from 100Hz
to 20kHz. The adoption of a rubber top and bottom surface enables the speakers to be inverted without fear of
damage and provided the most convenient cable feed to
the internally recessed angle speaker terminals.
The acoustical outputs of the five speakers in the Jamo
Concert series line-up are precisely matched, as you
would expect. They only require the addition of a good
The Jamo SW3015 subwoofer uses a 15-inch driver and
has a 300W amplifier. It has no difficulty in providing
wall-shaking sound level over the frequency range from
30Hz to 150Hz
subwoofer to fulfil the more demanding requirements
of a “fully fledged” Dolby Digital or the alternative DTS
Sound Decoding System.
15-inch subwoofer
I already had a Jamo SW3015 subwoofer and this will
team up with the Jamo Concert system. The SW3015
uses a 15-inch motional feedback controlled subwoofer
capable of working without any sign of cone break-up
to a frequency four times its upper intended operating
limit. The voice coil is designed to accommodate a 20mm
movement and is driven by a 300 watt amplifier.
The amplifier has an outstanding 85% efficiency (presumably it is switchmode design) so that the heatsink
and the size of the cabinet may be appropriately reduced.
When producing a 100dB sound pressure (at 1m) the total
April 2000 7
The Concert Center (front, centre) loudspeaker system matches the styling of the Concert 8. The cabinet houses four
drivers: a pair of 165mm diameter woofers, a 38mm diameter mid-range driver and a 25mm diameter tweeter.
harmonic distortion is claimed to be less than 1%. With
that sort of performance, the SW3015 has no difficulty in
providing wall-shaking sound level over the frequency
range from 30Hz to 150Hz. A particularly nice feature
is its “Auto On/Off” function that shuts the unit down
automatically after 10 minutes with no input signal.
each of the side walls and approximately 500mm from
the rear wall of my listening room. The Concert Center
was located directly between the two main speakers and
all with a common height of 1.2 metres above the floor
and 3.5m from the central listening position.
Initial tests
The two Concert Surround Speakers were located at
matching positions at the rear of my listening room,
separated by 5m and approximately 1.6m above the floor
and 2m to the rear of my listening position.
The first test disc I used was “DVD Spectacular” Delos
DV7001 issued by Dolby Laboratories, who worked with
Delos on its development. It makes it possible to test
the swept frequency response of each of the five main
channels, as well as the subwoofer. With all six channels
connected correctly in phase and with inputs correctly
balanced, the measured frequency responses appeared to
be exceptionally good; in fact, almost too good to be true.
What surprised me was that each of the five separate
Jamo speakers appeared to have a uniformly flat response
all the way down to 30Hz. How could this be? It turned
out that the subwoofer was the critical source of all the
low frequency energy.
I then realised that Dolby Laboratories had been more
innovative than I had thought. By deactivating the sub
woofer chan
nel, I confirmed that Dolby Laboratories
had designed a system that did not rely on any of the
five primary channel speakers being flat below 100Hz.
All the output below 100Hz is supposed to come from
the subwoofer.
So if you don’t own a subwoofer, you are forced to rely
on the output from your two main (front, left and right)
speakers to provide an extended low frequency response.
Whilst the Concert 8s are adequate in that regard, they
simply cannot match the performance of the SW3015.
Obviously, Dolby Laboratories haven’t publicised this
feature, as they saw no need. Their licensees however,
are well aware of this critical design characteristic. When
designing their loudspeakers for an integrated 5.1 channel
Dolby Digital compatible system, the five main speakers
only need to cover the nominal frequency range 100Hz
through to 20kHz.
As it happens, the Jamo Concert main speakers offer
a relatively wide frequency response that extends well
below the 100Hz criterion. The Concert 8s provide a
remarkably smooth response down to below 40Hz. That
response was measured with the subwoofer inactive, to
ensure that I didn’t fool myself.
For my initial assessment of the Jamo Concert system,
I connected the five loudspeakers to a Yamaha model
DSP-E492 3-channel amplifier coupled to a Yamaha M80
amplifier which served the two front channels.
The Yamaha audio-visual processor/amplifier has a
neat sequential reference tone to make it easy to adjust
the five channels for equal output. Subsequent checking
with a sound level meter confirmed that my subjective
adjustment was accurate to within 2dB. I placed each of
the Concert 8 loudspeakers on stands at one metre from
The Concert Surround speakers provide a diffuse sound
field by virtue of their V-front configuration, with two
sets of speakers on each of the angled speaker faces. The
driver line-up includes a pair of 130mm diameter woofer/
midrange speakers plus a pair of 25mm diameter softdome tweeters.
8 Silicon Chip
Too good to be true
Fig.1: this graph shows the frequency response of the
Concert 8 left and right speakers, with the sub-woofer
active (red). The green line shows the response of the subwoofer by itself at two metres.
Fig.2: this graph shows the frequency response from the
right front at 1.4 metres with the sub-woofer active (red)
and the right front at 1.4 metres with the sub-woofer
active.
The subwoofer’s high frequency cut-off was set to
100Hz for my testing. However, the SW3015 can cover a
significantly wider frequency range, up to 180Hz.
The Concert series do not incorporate protection circuitry. Instead, each is designed to withstand short-term
transient power inputs exceeding 150W. I used a 300W
per channel stereo amplifier to drive the Concert 8s and
a five-channel amplifier (5 x 150W) and although I subjected the speakers to some pretty nasty input signals,
they never missed a beat.
With peak inputs of 130W there were no problems at
all, although at that input level, harmonic distortion is
readily detectable. With unweighted peak and pressure
levels exceeding 110dB, I was able to replicate the sound
levels currently heard in cinemas.
There is a surprisingly large amount of Dolby Digital
software available in Australia. By contrast, there is relatively little DTS material around, although the first ‘dribs
and drabs’ are now trickling into Australia. Fortunately
I was offered a sample of the latest DTS audio material
produced by Telarc, a 5.1 DTS Surround Sampler with
which I evaluated a Kenwood model D 1888 DE 5-channel amplifier. This provided the opportunity to make
a comparison with comparable Dolby Digital material.
My assessment is that well recorded DTS encoded
material is every bit as good as equivalent Dolby Digital
encoded software. Irrespective of which source input you
choose, the Jamo Concert 8, Concert Center and Concert
Surrounds supplemented by the SW3015 subwoofer
provide an audible performance that has to be heard to
be appreciated.
Irrespective of the software, the frequency response is
impeccable. With a choir singing and organ playing, a
bass drum being struck, a cannon firing or an orchestra
playing, I had no difficulty in replicating the subjective
feelings that I frequently experience when sitting in a
concert hall at the Sydney Opera House.
In short, the Jamo Concert series look impeccable and
sound very impressive. For more information, contact
SC
Jamo Australia on (03) 9543 1522.
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April 2000 9
How to run
a 3-phase
induction motor
from 240VAC
Over the years, many readers have wanted to
run a 3-phase 415V AC induction motor from a
single-phase 240V AC supply. It CAN be done,
although with some loss of efficiency. This article discusses how to do it.
By PETER LAUGHTON
W
HY WOULD YOU want to run a
3-phase 415VAC induction
motor from a single phase 240VAC
supply? The short answer is “because a
3-phase supply is not available!” Other
answers are that 3-phase motors are
typically found on lathes and other
pieces of equipment and are generally
cheaper to buy than equivalent single
phase motors.
Before we talk about how to do it,
let’s look at some of the problems.
The first one is that the starting
torque is reduced from what it oth-
erwise would be. This means that if
the motor is connected to a load that
needs a large starting torque (like an
air compressor that isn’t fitted with
an unloading valve), the motor will
probably just sit there humming and
eventually burn out.
In practice, the starting torque is
typically reduced by about 20%. My
experiments show that some motors
are better than others and indeed it is
the older types that are usually better
than newer ones. This is probably
due to the fact that older motors gen-
erally have a larger laminated core
in the magnetic path and they have
more copper in the windings. In other
words, older motors are more conservatively designed.
Examples of loads that can be
successfully started and run are saw
benches, band-saws and fans that start
up under virtually no-load conditions.
Some types of lathes can also be successfully run because they start with
no load.
Bear in mind that running a 3-phase
motor from a single phase supply is
far less than optimum because the
3-phase rotating fields will not have
the correct 120° relationship to each
other. The motor will therefore make
more noise, will run hotter than normal and will not produce as much
power.
Also the pitch and strength of the
noise will change ac
cording to the
load on the motor, as the phase vector
from the artificially created 3rd phase
Fig.1(a) shows the phasor diagram for an ideal 3-phase system. Each phase has a 120° separation from the
other two. Fig.1(b) shows the likely phasor relationship with the third phase created by the connection of
capacitors across a 3-phase motor with no load. Fig.1(c) is the likely phase diagram when the same motor is
under load. These less than ideal phase relationships mean that the motor will not be as efficient or produce
as much torque and it likely to also produce more noise.
10 Silicon Chip
Fig.2: this is how capacitors are connected across a deltaconnected 3-phase motor to artificially produce 3-phase
operation. Note that the motor must be capable of deltaconnection 240VAC operation. A 415VAC star connected
motor will not have sufficient voltage to start and run
properly. The capacitors should be rated at 440VAC.
changes under load (see Fig.1). This
could induce vibrations into a drive
under certain conditions of load and
might possibly cause damage.
There are commercial devices
which can provide the correct 120
degree spaced phase voltages for a
415VAC motor but we will confine
ourselves to the passive solution
which just uses high-voltage AC-rated
capacitors.
WARNING: DANGEROUS VOLTAGES!
First, we need to make a few safety comments. We are deal
ing with
mains voltages here, so if you are not
a licensed electrician, don’t attempt
to try any of the ideas presented here.
Even when the motor is switched
off and disconnected from the 240VAC
mains supply, there could still be
appreciable voltage left on the capacitors, enough to kill the unsuspecting
person.
Remember that even if you don’t
necessarily have all the leads connected to the motor, the unused ones will
still be energised due to induction and
transformer effects within its windings
and core.
I also suggest that you obtain a secondhand motor to experiment with,
as you may burn it out if you get the
connections wrong.
Also be aware that a 3-phase motor,
driving a load that still keeps it spinning after the power is removed, such
as a drive equipped with a large flywheel, becomes a capacitively-excited
induction alternator. Such a spinning
motor is capable of killing you with the
voltage produced at its terminals, even
though it is completely disconnected
from the mains supply.
As already mentioned, all that is
needed to run a 3-phase motor from
a 240VAC single phase supply is a
few capacitors. But what values? Too
much capacitance and we create a
leading power factor (which doesn’t
usually go down too well with your
local electricity supplier), while too
little capacitance won’t give a strong
enough field when operating under
load and the motor will slow down
and burn out.
How much capacitance do we need?
First, we need to briefly review how
a 3-phase induction motor works. It
has three separate stator windings
which are connected in star or delta
mode to the three phases of the mains
supply. If we are thinking of the star
connection, each phase can be regarded as 240VAC, separated by 120°.
This is shown in the phasor diagram
of Fig.1(a).
This crude method of obtaining
three phases from a single-phase
supply uses a number of capacitors
connected as shown in Fig.2, for
a delta-connected motor. In effect,
we are using the inductance of the
stator winding in conjunction with
the capacitors to provide the desired
phase shifts.
Strictly speaking, the amount of
capacitance required varies with load
because the inductive reactance of
the motor varies as the speed of the
motor varies. This is because of the
varying “slip”.
To explain further, the speed of the
rotating magnetic fields in a 4-pole
motor is 1500 RPM and 3000 RPM for a
2-pole motor, etc. This is the so-called
“synchronous speed”. But the actual
rotor speed isn’t constant, as it varies
with load and even at “no-load” is
always less than the synchronous field
speed due to the stator windings. The
April 2000 11
Fig.3: this is a delta-connected
3-phase motor. Each winding
has 240VAC applied to it.
Most new 3-phase motors
can be run in this mode, as
detailed on their nameplate.
difference between the two is called
“slip” and it typically varies from 2 %
to 10 % or more in specially designed
motors. For example, a motor rated at
1440 RPM will have a synchronous
speed of 1500 RPM and the slip in
this case is 4%.
As the motor is loaded, the slip increases; ie, the rotor runs slower and
slower until it eventually stalls. This
change of speed with load affects the
back-emf of the rotor and is reflected
in the stator inductive reactance and is
why the amount of capacitance needed
varies according to load.
Some commercial units use thyristors to switch in different capacitors
but this is really beyond our aim of
doing things simply. Note that, of
necessity, the above explanation is
much simplified.
How do we work out the inductive
reactance of the windings to allow
us to provide the same amount of
capacitive reactance in order to give
the correct phase shifts?
There are several ways. One is by
measurement. You can use an AC
ammeter and excite the winding from
a low voltage AC supply. You can then
calculate the reactance from Ohms
Law, having measured the voltage and
current flow through the windings.
This gives a starting point for experimentation.
You can also take full load current
and volt ratings from the motor’s
name-plate and use those to calculate
the impedance of the windings. Once
again, this only gives an approximate
figure. Generally though, the calculation is not critical and the range of
tolerances in capacitors is greater than
the error anyway.
For instance, say you want to use a
small motor on a sawbench. It is rated
at 1.1kW, 4.1A, 240VAC (delta-connected) at 2870 RPM (ie, 4.3% slip
relative to 3000 RPM).
We can use these figures to calculate
the inductive reactance of the windings, using the following formula:
Reactance = √[W2 - (VA)2]
= √[(1100)2 - (240 x 4.1)2]
This gives a result of 492Ω. We then
calculate the value of capacitance to
give the same reactance, using the
formula:
Capacitance = 1/(2π.f.Xc)
where f is 50Hz and Xc is 492Ω. The
result is 6.47µF. The voltage rating
should be at least 440VAC and the
capacitor must be rated for continuous
duty. Motor-start capacitors are not
suitable as they are only rated for a
short duty cycle, typically several seconds. Oil-filled motor-run capacitors
should be suitable.
We now have to connect capacitors
to the motor to create a rotating magnetic field. In fact, we only create an
unbalanced field and let the motor’s
Fig.4: a starting switch and extra capacitors will provide
more initial torque from the motor but the additional
capacitors must be switched out when the motor comes up
to speed.
12 Silicon Chip
rotor produce a moving field as it
turns.
How do we unbalance the field?
We connect the capacitors in the ratio
C to 2C, as shown in the diagram of
Fig.2. This creates our unbalanced
field. But this will only work from a
415VAC 2-phase supply which is not
practical when we only have a 240VAC
single-phase supply! How can we run
a 415VAC motor from 240VAC?
Fortunately most new small 3-phase
motors (rated up to 3.7kW or 5 HP)
are now designed to work anywhere
in the world, from 60Hz supplies at
220/240VAC (as in America) to 50Hz,
380VAC to 440VAC supplies (as in
Europe and Australia).
So the solution is to connect one of
these motors to run in “delta” rather
than “star” mode. This is shown in
Fig.3.
Note that the capacitors don’t have
to be connected right at the motor terminals but should be reasonably close
to reduce the effects of lead resistance.
To reverse the rotation, it is simply
a matter of changing any two connections to the motor, as in reversing a
standard 3-phase motor.
Improving the starting torque
The usual way to do this is to
switch in more capacitors at starting
and disconnect them when the motor
is up to speed, to prevent the power
factor problems above (see Fig.4). The
switch could be the motor’s inbuilt
centrifugal throw-out switch or even
a manually-operated toggle switch.
What about operating a bigger
3-phase motor? Once you have the
3-phase field from a small motor, you
can start a larger motor after the small
one is running, as the rotating field is
real and available at the small motor’s
terminals. No extra capacitance is
needed as the already running motor
supplies the field.
Note that there are limits set by
your local supply author
ity on the
size of the motor you can start on the
domestic power grid.
The idea presented above also allows you to run 3-phase motors from
a single phase petrol or diesel generator but it really gives the generator a
workout during the starting period, so
be careful or you may damage the genset. I can successfully start and run the
1.1kW 3-phase motor described above
(on a sawbench) from a 5kVA, 240VAC
SC
single-phase diesel genset.
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
readout
* Digital
plus bargraph
be used as
* Can
a gearchange
indicator
drive a rev
* Can
limiter
auto* Display
dims at night
Keep tabs on engine revs with this:
Digital Tacho
This versatile Digital Tachometer has a
4-digit LED display plus an analog style
bargraph to indicate engine rpm. The
displays automatically dim at night and
there’s even a limiter output, so that you
can limit engine revs.
By JOHN CLARKE
Tachometers are a “must have”
item for driving enthusiasts. If you
prefer a manual car, a tacho lets you
know when to change gear and can
help you keep engine rpm within
the best operating range. An accurate
tachometer is also a vital tuning aid
if you have an old car and you prefer
to do the engine tune-ups yourself.
14 Silicon Chip
Traditionally, analog tachometers
have been circular in shape with a
needle (or pointer) which sweeps in
a clockwise direction as the engine
speed (rpm) rises. The scale behind
the needle is usually marked in 100s
of rpm and there’s also often a colour
scale to indicate the normal rpm range
(green), a high rpm range (orange) and
an “over-the-limit” range (red).
In recent years, digital tachometers have also become quite popular
with car enthusiasts. These directly
show the engine speed on 7-segment
LED displays or on an LCD but they
do have one disadvantage – the
forbidden red zone, where you can
do serious engine damage due to
over-revving, isn’t indicated on the
display. Instead, it’s up to the driver
to remember the where the redline is
and drive accordingly.
This design overcomes that problem by including a bargraph display.
This display operates in conjunction
with the digital display and has 10
LEDs – seven green and three red.
As the engine speed rises, the seven
green LEDs progressively light and
then the three red LEDs all light
together.
In effect, the bargraph has eight
steps – seven for the green (normal)
range and one for the redline. These
eight steps can be programmed to
operate at any value within a 0-9900
rpm range, so the new Digital Tachometer can be used with virtually any
engine (provided its redline is less
than 9900 rpm).
By the way, a reading of 9900 is also
the limit for the digital readout but
that should be more than enough for
any normal engine. Beyond 9900rpm,
the 7-segment LED displays show a
value of “-00” to indicate the over
range.
Basic features
The Digital Tachometer is a compact unit which is much smaller than
any of our previous tachometers. In
fact, it is about as small as you could
expect, considering that there are
four 7-segment displays and a 10-LED
bargraph housed in the case. That’s
all been made possible by basing the
design on a PIC16F84 microcontroller – the same device as used in the
Speed Alarm (November 1999) and
the Digital Voltmeter (February 2000).
In fact, this circuit completes a
trilogy of car project designs based
on the PIC16F84 microcontroller. As
before, the PIC controller has allowed
us to dramatically reduce the required
parts count and this in turn makes the
unit easy to build. Even the circuits
are quite similar – we’ve “simply”
made a few hardware changes and
rewritten the software that’s programmed into the microcontroller, so
that it now functions as a tachometer.
The new Digital Tachometer is also
very easy to install and calibrate. It
connects to the ignition supply and
ground for power and obtains its
signal from the ignition coil or from
an engine management computer. It
shows the engine rpm in 100 rpm
increments on the 4-digit LED display,
while the bargraph indicates engine
rpm in an analog format.
One nice feature is that the display
brightness varies according to the ambient light. In bright light, the display
is at its maximum brilliance so that
it can be easily seen. However, as the
ambient light falls (eg, at night time),
the display automatically dims so that
it won’t be too bright.
Before using the tachometer, you
have to select the calibration profile
for your particular engine and adjust
Main Features
•
4-digit LED display showing up to 9900 rpm; 10-LED bargraph with
redline indication.
•
•
100 rpm display resolution.
•
LEDs 8-10 (red) in bargraph display light up together for redline indication.
•
LED rpm indication thresholds in bargraph can be individually set (eg,
to allow the unit to be used as a gearchange indicator).
•
Automatic calculation and setting of the LEDs 1-7 rpm thresholds
when the LEDs 8-10 rpm threshold is set.
•
•
Optional dot or bargraph display.
•
•
Adjustable rpm hysteresis for limiter output and bargraph display.
•
•
Automatic display dimming during low light conditions.
Works with 4-stroke engines with up to 12 cylinders and 2-stroke engines with up to 6 cylinders.
Rev limiter output signal (can drive the SILICON CHIP Rev Limiter
switcher board described April 1999).
Three switches for setting calibration, bargraph and hysteresis values
(Mode, Up and Down).
Rpm sensing directly from ignition coil or via low voltage signal from
engine management computer.
the bargraph display range. We have
made this process very easy to do
using just three pushbutton switches.
These switches are located on the
circuit board just below the bargraph
display but are not accessible when
the lid is on since calibration is normally a “set and forget” function.
The first time you apply power to
the unit, the unit will be ready to display the engine rpm. In addition, the
internal program loads a number of
default values for the calibration, bargraph display and hysteresis. Initially,
the unit is calibrated for a 4-cylinder
4-stroke engine, the redline is set at
4000 rpm and the hysteresis is set at
100 rpm. The first LED in the bargraph
lights at 0 rpm but you can change
this and the other green LEDs to light
at what values ever you like (eg, to
indicate gear change-down points).
Note that the default values remain
in place unless changed by pressing
the calibration switches. We’ll tell
you how to do this later in the article.
Dot or bargraph display
In case you’re wondering, the
style of the bargraph display can be
changed from bar to dot mode – hey,
we are using a microcontroller after
all! The major difference here is that
in the dot mode, only one LED from
LEDs 1-7 will light at a time. However,
LEDs 8-10 always light together so
that aspect remains the same.
The Dot mode is selected by holding down the Mode switch while power is applied to the unit (ie, when the
ignition is switched on). The display
will then show a “d” to indicate dot
mode. Similarly, the bargraph mode
can be reactivated by again pressing
the Mode switch during power up.
This time, the display will show a
“b” to indicate that the unit is now in
bar mode. Note that the adjacent digit
will also show a “0”, so the display
actually shows “d0” or “b0”.
The dot mode can be used to provide some unique display results.
For example, if you program more
than one LED to light at the same
rpm value, then only the LED that’s
on the right will light. You can use
this feature to set up the tachometer
to provide gearchange indication,
whereby a series of three LEDs light
in sequence to indicate when to
April 2000 15
Fig.1: (left): a PIC microcontroller
does most of the work in the Digital
Tacho. It accepts input pulses from
the coil (via a pulse conditioning
circuit) or from the tacho output of
an engine management computer
and drives the LED displays.
change up. The lower four LEDs can
be blanked out by programming their
rpm settings to the same value as for
LED 5.
The hysteresis for the LED bargraph
display in dot or bar mode can also
be selected to give the best bargraph
display and limiter results. The
hysteresis sets the rpm difference
between when a LED first turns on
and when it is switched off.
If the hysteresis is set at 0, then
each LED and the limiter output will
switch on at the preset rpm and also
switch off at this same rpm value. This
means that a LED will continually
flicker on and off if the rpm remains
fairly constant. Adding hysteresis
(eg, 100 rpm) ensures that the engine
rpm must fall by a preset amount before the LED extinguishes after first
switching on. This prevents display
flicker which can be distracting.
Hysteresis is also useful for the
limiter output. This must stay low
for a certain length of time to give
the ignition limiting circuit a chance
to work.
The hysteresis is initially preset
to 100 rpm and this value should be
suitable for most applications. However, if your engine doesn’t maintain a
constant rpm value at a given throttle
setting, a greater hysteresis value may
be required. In practice, you can set
it to any value from 0-900 rpm in 100
rpm steps.
One feature that is fixed in the
software is the display update time.
This is nominally set at the count
period for the ignition coil pulses
and is 0.3 seconds for a 4-cylinder
4-stroke engine. However, engines
with more sparks per revolution will
have a calibration which gives a faster
count period and this would cause
the display to become a blur as the
digits rapidly changed, particularly
the 100 rpm digit.
The software compensates for this
problem by only changing the display
reading at a maximum of once every
0.3s regardless of the count period
set by the calibration value. The
16 Silicon Chip
bargraph display update time is also
fixed at 0.3s.
The accompanying calibration
table (Table 1) shows the correlation
between the number sparks per revolution, the count period and the
display update time. Note how the
count period becomes very short for
6-12 cylinder 4-stroke engines.
Circuit details
Refer now to Fig.1 for the complete
circuit details. It’s dominated by IC1
which is the programmed PIC16F84P
microcontroller. This device accepts
inputs from the ignition coil (via a
pulse conditioning circuit) or from
the tacho output of an engine management computer and drives the
LED displays.
OK, let’s start with the pulse conditioning circuit. First, the voltage
pulses from the ignition coil are
attenuated by a factor of three using
a voltage divider based on 22kΩ and
10kΩ resistors. The attenuated signal
is then filtered by a .056µF capacitor
which shunts signals above about
400Hz to ground and then AC-coupled via a 2.2µF capacitor to diode
D1 and zener diode ZD2.
ZD2 limits the peak signal level
to 20V, while D1 allows only positive-going pulses to be fed to the
inverting input (pin 2) of IC2a. A
10kΩ resistor between this input and
ground holds the voltage low in the
absence of any signal via D1.
Alternatively, an ignition signal
which swings from ground up to a
maximum of 20V can be applied to
the low input if this type of signal
is available on your vehicle (eg, the
tacho output of the engine management computer).
IC2a functions as an inverting
comparator with hysteresis. Each
time a positive-going pulse is applied
to pin 2, the output at pin 1 swings
low. Alternatively, when no signal is
present, pin 1 of IC2a swings high to
almost 12V.
Pin 3 of IC2a is nominally biased to
about 1.6V by a voltage divider consisting of 4.7kΩ and 2.2kΩ resistors,
while the 47kΩ positive feedback
resistor provides the hysteresis. This
sets the high-going threshold for the
comparator to 1.7V and the low-going
threshold to 1.5V and prevents false
triggering due to noise.
IC2a’s output drives pin 6 (RB0)
of IC1 via a 2.2kΩ limiting resistor.
Specifications
•
•
•
RPM accuracy typically 0.5% plus 100 rpm.
•
Bargraph rpm LED threshold values and limiter output rpm level can be
set at any value from 0-9900 rpm.
•
Bargraph and limiter output hysteresis (rpm on to rpm off) adjustable
from 0-900 rpm in 100 rpm steps.
•
Limiter output time set at a minimum of 0.3s.
Linearity and repeatability within 100 rpm.
Tachometer display update time: 0.6s for 2-cylinder 4-stroke calibration,
0.3s for 4-12-cylinder 4-stroke calibration settings.
This resistor limits the current flow
from IC2a when its output swings
to a nominal 12V, while the internal
clamp diodes at RB0 limit the voltage
on this pin to about 5.6V (ie, 0.6V
above the supply).
Pin 6 (RB0) of IC1 is set as an interrupt and the internal software responds whenever this input goes low.
on and applies power to the common
anode connection of DISP3. Any low
outputs on RB1-RB7 will thus light
the corresponding segments of that
display.
After this display has been on
for a short time, the RA2 output is
taken high and DISP3 turns off. The
7-segment data on RB1-RB7 is then
updated, after which RA1 is brought
low to drive Q2 and display DISP4.
Finally, after a short time, RA0 is
taken low to drive Q3 and LEDs1-7
of the bargraph.
Note that displays DIPS1 and DISP2
always show “00”. These displays
have their a-f segments commoned
and connected to ground via 150Ω
resistors. DISP1 is switched by transistor Q2 and so it lights when DISP4
lights. Similarly, DISP2 is switched
by transistor Q1 and lights when
DISP3 lights.
But why multiplex DISP2 and
DISP1 if they always show “00”?
Why not just leave them on all the
time? The answer is that we multiplex
them so that they will have the same
brightness as the other displays. This
LED displays
The 7-segment LED displays and
the LEDs1-7 of the bargraph are driven
directly from the RB1-RB7 outputs
of IC1 via 150Ω current limiting
resistors. As shown, the corresponding segments of displays DISP3 and
DISP4 are connected together, as are
the segments for DISP1 and DISP2.
In addition, the cathodes of the first
seven LEDs in the bargraph (LEDs17) are each tied to a DISP3/4 display
segment.
The displays are driven in multiplex fashion, with IC1 switching
its RA0, RA1 and RA2 lines low in
sequence to control switching transistors Q1-Q3. For example, when RA2
is switched low, transistor Q1 turns
Table
Table 1:
1: Calibration
Calibration Data/Update
Data/Update Times
Tim es
N o. Of Cyls.
(4-stroke)
1
N o. Of Cyls.
(2-stroke)
2
1
3
4
2
5
Pulses/Rev
Count Period
Update Time
0.5
1.2
1.2
1
0.6
0.6
1.5
0.4
0.4
2
0.3
0.3
2.5
0.24
0.3
6
3
3
0.2
0.3
8
4
4
0.150
0.3
10
5
5
.06
0.3
12
6
6
.05
0.3
April 2000 17
limiting resistors when the reline has
been reached. Second, it provides the
limiter output signal. This output is
normally at +5V but goes low to drive
an external limit circuit whenever the
redline is reached.
Switch inputs
Fig.2: install the parts on the PC boards as shown here. Note that
switches S1-S3 on the display board must be installed with their
terminals oriented as shown, while the electrolytic capacitors must
all be mounted parallel to the board surface (see photo).
is particularly important when the
displays are dimmed. Multiplexing
them also means that we only need
six 150Ω current limiting resistors
for the two displays rather than the
12 that would be needed if they were
not multiplexed.
The output at RA3 performs two
functions. First, it switches low and
drives LEDs 8-10 via 470Ω current
Switches S1, S2 & S3 are all monitored at the RA4 input. The other
sides of the Mode, Down and Up
switches connect to the RA0, RA1 &
RA2 outputs respectively. Normally,
the RA4 input is held high via a 47kΩ
resistor which connects to the +5V
supply rail. However, when a switch
is closed (pressed), the RA4 input is
regularly taken low by one (and only
one) of the RA0-RA2 outputs.
The microcontroller then determines which switch has been closed
by checking to see which one of the
RA0, RA1 & RA2 outputs is low when
RA4 is low. For example, if RA4 is low
when RA0 is low, then it’s the Mode
switch that’s been pressed.
Similarly, if RA4 is low when RA1
is low it’s the Down switch that’s
pressed and if RA2 must be low then
it’s the Up switch.
The 1kΩ resistors in series with
the Mode and Up switches are there
to ensure that the RA0, RA1 & RA2
outputs can not be shorted if more
Capacitor Codes
Value
IEC Code EIA Code
0.1µF 100n
104
0.056µF 56n
563
15pF 15p 15
Resistor Colour Codes
No.
1
1
1
2
1
2
2
1
3
2
13
1
18 Silicon Chip
Value
47kΩ
22kΩ
22kΩ
10kΩ
4.7kΩ
2.2kΩ
1kΩ
680Ω
470Ω
220Ω
150Ω
10Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
yellow violet orange brown
red red orange brown
red red orange brown
brown black orange brown
yellow violet red brown
red red red brown
brown black red brown
blue grey brown brown
yellow violet brown brown
red red brown brown
brown green brown brown
brown black black brown
5-Band Code (1%)
yellow violet black red brown
red red black red brown
red red black red brown
brown black black red brown
yellow violet black brown brown
red red black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
blue grey black black brown
yellow violet black black brown
red red black black brown
brown green black black brown
brown black black gold brown
than one switch is pressed at the same
time. This could otherwise produce
strange display results.
Dimming
IC2b is used to control the display
brightness. This op amp is connected
as a voltage follower and drives buffer
transistor Q4 which is inside the negative feedback loop. Light dependent
resistor LDR1 controls the voltage on
the pin 5 input of IC2b according to
the ambient light level. IC2b in turn
controls Q4 and thus the voltage applied to the emitters of display drivers
Q1-Q3 and to the commoned anodes
of the red LEDs in the bargraph.
The circuit works like this. When
the ambient light is high, LDR1 has
low resistance and so the voltage on
pin 5 of IC2b will be close to +5V.
This means that the voltage at Q4’s
emitter will also be close to +5V and
so the LED displays will operate at
full brightness.
Conversely, in low light conditions,
the resistance of the LDR will be higher and so the voltage on pin 5 of IC2b
is lower than before. In fact, when it’s
completely dark, the voltage on pin 5
is determined by VR1 which sets the
minimum brightness level. As before,
the voltage on pin 5 appears at Q4’s
emitter and so the displays are driven
at reduced brightness.
Note that, in practice, VR1 is adjusted to give the requisite display
brightness at night.
Clock signals
Clock signals for IC1 are provided
by an internal oscillator circuit which
operates in conjunction with 4MHz
crystal X1 and two 15pF capacitors.
The two capacitors are there to provide the correct loading and to ensure
that the oscillator starts reliably.
The crystal frequency is divided
down internally to produce separate
clock signals for the microcontroller
operation and for display multi
plexing. The crystal frequency is also
used to give a precise time period over
which to count the incoming ignition
pulse signals at RB0. The number of
pulses counted in a given time indicates the engine rpm.
Power
Power for the circuit is derived
from the vehicle’s battery rail via the
ignition switch. A 10Ω 1W resistor
and 47µF capacitor decouple this
The display board (in case at top) plugs directly into the pin header sockets on
the processor board (above), eliminating wiring connections between the two.
Notice how the electrolytic capacitors on the processor board are bent over, so
that they lie across the regulator leads and across ZD2.
12V supply rail, while zener diode
ZD1 protects the circuit from transient voltage spikes above 16V. The
decoupled supply rail is then fed to
REG1 to derive a +5V rail and this in
turn is filtered by the 47µF and 0.1µF
capacitors.
The +5V supply rail is used to
power all the circuitry except for IC2
which is powered directly from the
decoupled 12V ignition supply.
OK, so much for the electronic
hardware which is fairly straightforward. As you’ve probably gathered
by now, most of the complicated stuff
takes place inside the microcontroller
under software control. We’ll describe
how this software works next month.
Construction
Fortunately, you don’t have to
understand how the software works
to build this circuit. Instead, it’s all
programmed into the PIC chip. You
just buy the preprogrammed chip
and “plug” it into the socket on the
circuit board.
All the parts for the Digital Tacho
meter are mounted on two PC boards:
a processor board coded 05104001
April 2000 19
The pin headers are installed on the track side of the display board using a finetipped soldering iron. Note that it will be necessary to slide the plastic spacers
along the leads to allow room for soldering.
This view shows how the two boards are stacked together in “piggyback”
fashion to make a compact assembly. Make sure that none of the parts on the
processor board contact the back of the display board.
and a display board coded 05104002.
Both boards measure 78 x 50mm.
They are stacked together and the
connections between them automatically made using pin headers and
cut-down IC sockets.
Fig.2 shows the assembly details.
Begin the construction by checking
both boards for shorts between tracks,
open circuit tracks and undrilled
holes. This done, you can install all
the parts on the processor board as
shown in Fig.2.
First, install all the wire links,
then install the resistors using the
accompanying resistor colour code
table as a guide to selecting the correct
values. It’s also a good idea to use a
digital multimeter to measure each
20 Silicon Chip
one, just to make sure. Note that the
150Ω resistors on the processor PC
board are mounted end on.
The horizontal trimpot (VR1) can
go in next, followed by a socket to
accept IC1 – but don’t install the IC
yet. IC2 is soldered directly to the
board and can go in now. Make sure
that both IC2 and the socket for IC1
are correctly oriented.
Next, install diode D1 and zener
diodes ZD1 & ZD2, followed by transistors Q1-Q4. Be careful here – Q4 is
a BC338 NPN type while Q1-Q3 are
BC328 PNP types, so don’t get them
mixed up.
Now for regulator REG1 – this is
installed with its metal tab flat against
the PC board and with its leads bent
at rightangles to pass through their respective mounting holes in the board.
Make sure that the hole in the metal
tab lines up with its corresponding
hole in the PC board.
The capacitors can now be installed, making sure that the electrolytic types are correctly oriented.
Note that the electrolytics must all
be mounted so that they lie parallel
with the PC board, as shown in the
photograph. The two 47µF capacitors
at bottom right are bent over so that
they lie across the regulator’s leads,
while the 2.2µF capacitor below diode
D1 lies across ZD1.
Crystal X1 also mounts horizontally on the PC board. It is secured
by soldering a short length of tinned
copper wire between one end of its
metal case and a PC pad immediately
to the right of Q1.
The three 7-way in-line sockets can
now be fitted. These are made by cutting two 14-pin IC sockets into single
in-line strips using a sharp knife or
a fine-toothed hacksaw. Clean up the
rough edges with a file before installing them on the PC board.
Finally, install PC stakes at the five
external wiring positions (near the
bottom edge of the board and adjacent
to D1). Once they’re in, trim these
stakes on the component side of the
board to prevent them from shorting
against the display PC board later on.
Also, the coil input PC stake needs to
be shortened to prevent it from arcing
to adjacent tracks on the display board
due to its high voltage.
Display board assembly
Now for the display board. Install
the wire links and the resistors first,
including the six 150Ω resistors that
sit beneath DISP1 and DISP2. The four
7-segment LED displays can then be
installed with their decimal points at
bottom right. Note that all the displays
are mounted slightly proud of the
board because of the 150Ω resistors.
Make sure that they are all correctly
aligned before soldering all their pins.
Switches S1-S3 must be oriented
correctly, so that there is normally
an open circuit between the top and
bottom terminals of each switch.
These switches have leads which are
rectangular in shape and it’s simply
a matter of installing them with their
leads oriented as shown in Fig.2.
The LED bargraph mounts so that
the anode leads are to the left. Install
Fig.3: follow this diagram when stacking the boards together
and be sure to use plastic washers where indicated. Note the
small heatsink attached to the brass spacer.
Fig.4: the full-size artworks for the front panel and PC boards
are shown above and at right.
it so that the green LEDs are to the
left and the red LEDs to the right and
you can’t go wrong. It should also be
installed so that its top face is 19.5mm
above the PC board, so that it will later
sit flush with the front panel.
The LDR should be mounted with
its face about 1.5mm above the displays.
Finally, complete the display board
assembly by inserting the pin headers.
These are installed from the copper
side of the board with their leads just
protruding above the board surface.
You will need a fine-tipped soldering
iron to solder them to the copper pads
on the PC board. It will also be necessary to slide the plastic spacers along
the leads to allow room for soldering.
Final assembly
The plastic case requires a minor
amount of work before installing the
PC boards.
First, use a sharp chisel to remove
the integral side pillars, then slide
the processor PC board into the case
and drill two mounting holes – one
through the metal tab hole of the regulator and the other below the 0.1µF
capacitor near IC2. An oversize drill
can then be used to countersink the
holes on the outside of the case, to suit
the specified M3 x 6mm CSK screws.
Two holes are also required at the
rear of the base of the case for the
power supply wiring and for the ignition coil lead. These holes can be
drilled so that they line up with the
relevant PC stakes.
The next step is to fashion a small
heatsink from sheet copper and solder it to the 6mm brass spacer – see
Fig.3. This heatsink must be shaped
so that the copper sheet cannot make
contact with any components on the
processor PC board and cause a short.
The main component to watch out for
here for is ZD1.
The display board can now be
plugged into the processor board
and the assembly secured exactly as
shown in Fig.3. Be sure to use plastic
washers and spacers where specified
and note that you must use an M3 x
15mm Nylon screw on one side of the
assembly, while the other side uses a
metal screw.
Check that the leads from the parts
on the display PC board do not interfere with any of the parts on the
processor PC board or with the copper heatsink. Some of the pigtails on
the display PC board may have to be
trimmed to avoid this.
The front panel label can now be
affixed to the front panel and used
as a template for making the display
cutouts and for drilling the hole for
the LDR. The main display cutout is
made by first drilling a series of small
holes around the inside perimeter,
then knocking out the centre piece
and filing the job to a smooth finish.
Make the cutout so that the red Perspex or acrylic window is a tight fit.
The window can be further secured by
applying several small spots of super
glue along the inside edges.
Similarly, the cutout for the LED
bargraph can be made by drilling a
row of small holes and then filing so
that the bargraph is a neat fit.
Test & calibration
It’s a good idea to check the power
supply before plugging the microcontroller IC into its socket.
To do this, first unplug the display
board and connect automotive wires
to the +12V and GND inputs of the
processor board. This done, apply
power and use a multimeter to check
that there is +5V on pins 4 & 14 of
IC1’s socket, using the metal tab of
REG1 for the ground connection.
If this is correct, disconnect the
power and insert IC1 in place, ensuring that it is oriented correctly. Now
attach both PC boards together and
reapply power. The 7-segment LED
displays should show “000” rpm,
April 2000 21
Parts List
1 processor PC board, code
05104001, 78 x 50mm
1 display PC board, code
05104002, 78 x 50mm
1 front panel label, 80 x 52mm
1 plastic case utility case, 83 x 54
x 30mm
1 dark red transparent Perspex or
Acrylic sheet, 59 x 20 x 2.5
1 4MHz parallel resonant crystal
(X1)
1 LDR (Jaycar RD-3480 or equiv.)
5 PC stakes
3 7-way pin head launchers
2 DIP-14 low cost IC socket with
wiper contacts (cut for 3 x
7-way single in line sockets)
3 tactile switches (S1-S3) (Jaycar
SP-0730 or equiv.)
1 500kΩ horizontal trimpot (VR1)
1 6 x 20 x 0.5mm sheet copper for
heatsink
1 400mm length of 0.8mm tinned
copper wire
1 2m length of red automotive
wire
1 2m length of black or green
automotive wire (ground wire)
1 2m length of 250VAC wire for
ignition coil connection
3 6mm tapped spacers
2 M3 nuts
2 M3 x 6mm countersunk screws
or Nylon cheesehead cut to
length
3 M3 plastic washers 1mm thick
1 M3 x 15mm Nylon screw
while the first seven LEDs of the bargraph should be lit.
Pressing the Mode switch (at far
left) selects the first calibration function (or mode). This mode shows the
calibration value which is a number
ranging from 1-12, corresponding to
1-12 cylinders for a 4-stroke engine.
Note that the display also shows the
two fixed righthand “00” digits but
these are ignored.
Initially, the display should read
“400” which is the default value for
the number of engine cylinders; ie, the
default is for a 4-cylinder engine (as
previously stated, the two righthand
digits are ignored).
The calibration number is changed
using the Up button (far righthand
side) which selects the next value.
22 Silicon Chip
1 M3 x 15mm brass screw
Semiconductors
1 PIC16F84P microprocessor
programmed with TACHO.HEX
program (IC1)
1 LM358 dual op amp (IC2)
1 7805, LM340T5 5V 1A
3-terminal regulator (REG1)
3 BC328 PNP transistors (Q1-Q3)
1 BC338 NPN transistor (Q4)
4 HDSP5301, LTS542A common
anode 7-segment LED displays
(DISP1-DISP4)
1 10-LED bargraph (Jaycar ZD1702 or equiv.) (LEDs 1-10)
1 16V 1W zener diode (ZD1)
1 20V 1W zener diode (ZD2)
Capacitors
2 47µF 25VW PC electrolytic
1 2.2µF 50VW bipolar electrolytic
2 0.1µF MKT polyester
1 .056µF MKT polyester
2 15pF ceramic
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
1 47kΩ
2 1kΩ
1 22kΩ 1W
1 680Ω
1 22kΩ
3 470Ω
2 10kΩ
2 220Ω
1 4.7kΩ
13 150Ω
2 2.2kΩ
1 10Ω 1W
Miscellaneous
Automotive connectors,
heatshrink tubing, cable ties, etc.
You simply press this switch until
the required value appears. So, if you
have a 6-cylinder car, press the Up
button twice so that the display reads
“600”. The Down switch (middle)
does not operate for the calibration
adjustment.
Note that if you are calibrating for
a 2-stroke engine, you should select
a value that is twice the number of
cylinders.
Pressing the Mode switch again
lights the lefthand LED in the bargraph display. This corresponds to
the lower rpm LED setting which is
initially “000” rpm. It can be adjusted
using the Up and Down switches if
you wish to alter the default value.
Pressing the Mode switch again
cycles to the next LED in the bargraph
display and so on until the final 8, 9 &
10 (red) LEDs of the bargraph display
all light up.
As indicated at the start of the
article, the initial pre-programmed
redline value is 4000 rpm and this
will be indicated on the display. This
value should be altered to suit the
redline limit for your engine using the
Up and Down switches. Once this had
been done, the lower rpm settings for
LEDs 1-7 are automatically calculated
to provide a linear progression. You
can go back and check this by pressing
the Mode switch until you return to
the rpm setting modes (after three
Mode switch pressings) for each LED
on the bargraph display.
Note that you must change the 4000
rpm setting, otherwise the automatic
calculation process won’t take place.
This means that if you wish to set the
redline limit at 4000 rpm (ie, to the
default value), you must first press the
Up switch and then the Down switch
to return to 4000 rpm again. Once
this has been done, the automatic
calculation will take place.
OK, so that’s the basic setup procedure for the Digital Tachometer. Note
that all these settings now remain in
place unless they are altered using
the switches – even if the power is
removed.
Advanced features
While most users will be happy
with the basic setup, there are some
added features for those who would
like to customise their tachometer.
One of the obvious changes that
could be made is to individually adjust the rpm setting for each LED in
the bargraph display. This could be
done to compress the rpm range for
the middle LEDs where most of the
engine action takes place.
For example, the lower LED could
be set to indicate the engine speed at
which to change down, to prevent the
engine from labouring. The middle
LEDs could then be programmed to
light over a narrower range of rpm
values compared to the linear progression that is automatically calculated.
The only thing to note here is that it
is important to adjust the LEDs 8-10
(redline) value first before changing
the lower rpm values for the remaining LEDs. If you don’t do this, the
settings will be overwritten by the
automatic recalculation process that
takes place each time the LEDs 8-10
rpm value is changed.
Simply cycling through the LEDs
8-10 rpm setting using the Mode
switch will not activate the automatic recalculation process, however.
Automatic recalculation only occurs
when the Down or Up switch is
pressed in this mode. In fact, you can
cycle through all the modes without
changing any of the settings.
The hysteresis setting mode is
selected by repeatedly pressing the
Mode switch until the display shows
“H100” (ie, the default is 100 rpm).
If necessary, this can be altered using
the Up switch. As you do this, the
display indicates hysteresis in 100’s
of rpm. Note that the Down switch
does not operate in this mode.
Further tests & installation
You can test the dimming feature
by holding your finger over the LDR
to simulate darkness. Unfortunately,
you will need to unplug the display
board (with the power switched off)
to make adjustments to VR1, so adjustments will have to be done on a
trial and error basis. The best time to
make this adjustment is at night – just
set VR1 to give the correct minimum
brightness in the dark.
You can further test the Digital
Tachometer with a signal generator
set to give a 3V rms sinewave output.
Attach the signal generator output
between ground and the low voltage
input of the tachometer. The unit
should show a reading of 3000 rpm
per 100Hz input (4-cylinder, 4-stroke
calibration only).
Use automotive cable and connectors when installing the unit into a
vehicle. The +12V supply connection
is derived via the ignition switch and
a suitable connection point will usually be found inside the fusebox. Be
sure to choose the fused side of the
supply rail, so that the existing fuse
is in series.
The ground connection can be
made by connecting a lead to the
chassis via an eyelet and self-tapping
screw.
The coil input for rpm sensing can
connect directly to the switched side
of the ignition coil using 250VAC rated wire. Alternatively, you can use a
low voltage signal if this is available
from the vehicle’s computer; eg, a
low-voltage tachometer output signal.
A 0-5V signal will directly trigger the
Digital Tachometer if the signal is
Using The Rev Limiter Output
A
S MENTIONED the Digital Tach ometer limit output can control
an engine limiter. This will reduce the
number of sparks per revolution at the
rpm limit and thus prevent the engine
from revving past this limit.
We published a suitable Rev Limiter circuit in the April 1999 issue but
note that you don’t have to use the
whole circuit. Instead, you only have
to use the Ignition Switcher circuit
which was assembled on a separate
PC board.
The Ignition Switcher uses a single
555 timer IC and several transistors
to drive a high-voltage Darlington
output transistor. When the rev limit
is reached, this transistor shorts out
the main switching transistor in the
car’s ignition system for about 50% of
time, thus reducing the engine power
and thereby limiting the engine rpm
to the redline.
The two circuits are easy to marry –
all you have to do is connect the limit
output from the Digital Tachometer
directly to the terminal marked “From
Rev Limit Controller” on the Ignition
Switcher. A suitable value for C1 must
be chosen for the Ignition Switcher
from the table published in the April
issue. This sets the requisite number
of sparks that are blocked out during
the limiting action.
Note that if the Digital Tachometer
derives its input signal from the coil, it
will sense that the rpm has dropped
as soon as the coil is prevented
from sparking via the limiter action.
This means that the limit action may
not be as smooth as it would be if
the tachometer signal was derived
from a different source, such as the
tachometer output from the engine
computer.
However, the limit output from
the tachometer will remain low to
disable the spark for at least 0.3s,
regardless of the input source for the
tachometer. This should provide
sufficient time for the limit action to
take place.
The limiter output from the Digital Tacho can be used to drive this Ignition
Switcher board (SILICON CHIP, April 1999), to restrict engine revs to the
“red-line” setting.
connected to the low voltage input.
Note that some cars, including
late-model Holden Commodores and
Ford Falcons, use double-ended ignition coils, with each coil simultaneously firing two spark plugs (ie, three
coils are used for a 6-cylinder engine).
Similarly, some cars use individual
coils for each cylinder and these are
usually located at the ends of the HT
leads, directly on the spark plugs.
Invariably, these types of coils are
fully encapsulated and their terminals are not accessible. The answer
here is to use the tacho output from
the engine management computer.
You will need to refer to the wiring
diagram for your vehicle to identify
the correct lead or check with an auto
SC
electrician.
April 2000 23
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
How to Protect Life
AND Property:
ROOMGUARD
Smoke alarms are very common
nowadays – in fact, in many states
they’re required by law in all new
homes. But why have just a smoke
alarm? Here’s how to make one do
double duty as an effective but
low cost intruder alarm.
by JOHN CLARKE
F
ITTING A SMOKE ALARM
makes a lot of sense. For not
much more than $10 – including
a battery – they offer peace-of-mind
and security, especially while the
family sleeps.
Typically though, the one place they
are not normally fitted is the one place
they should be – in bedrooms. That
extra few minutes (or even seconds)
of warning time could literally be the
difference between life and death.
But smoke detectors in bedrooms,
especially teenage kid’s bedrooms,
aren’t cool. They don’t want ’em! What
they really want is something to keep
little brother or sister out while they’re
not home. The “keep out” sign on the
door doesn’t work real well, even if it
does threaten some exotic disease to
anyone entering except the occupant.
Where is all this leading? Well, how
do you think they’d like an alarm system which will keep a sibling at bay?
It just happens to look like a smoke
detector and yes, it will shriek its
head off if there is smoke in the room
28 Silicon Chip
(darn! now they can’t smoke in their
bedrooms...).
Well, here it is. The SILICON CHIP
ROOMGUARD looks and works just
like a typical smoke detector – mostly
because it is a typical smoke detector
with its normal action completely
unchanged! But it’s much more.
By wiring in a suitable control circuit (and even pinching power from
the detector’s 9V battery) we can make
the detector sound an alarm when
triggered by virtually any alarm detection device – switches on the doors or
windows, pressure mats outside the
door, light beam relays, even passive
infrared (PIR) movement sensors and
so on.
But more on these devices anon.
The features available on low-cost
smoke alarms include a loud siren, a
test input to sound the alarm, a low
battery warning and of course a battery
supply. These are all used as the main
alarm section for the RoomGuard.
Connections to the smoke alarm
are deliberately kept very simple.
Take one low-cost battery-operated smoke detector, add a little extra circuitry and an intruder detection device or two . . .
and you have a low cost, battery-operated smoke detector which screams its head off when there’s smoke or intruders.
It’s simple to build, too!
They include the battery connections
mentioned above and just two other
connections which go to the “test”
button. Normally this button is simply
used to sound the alarm and so check
the battery. We bridge it out to sound
the alarm to indicate an intruder.
What we have added to the smoke
alarm to make up the RoomGuard
system are two instant alarm inputs,
a delayed input, an exit delay and
an arm/disarm switch. The instant
inputs make the smoke alarm sound
immediately while the delayed input
gives you time to get in and turn off
the alarm side before the smoke alarm
sounds.
Alarm sensors are usually one of
two types: at rest they are open circuit and they close when tripped or
triggered – this is the normally open
(NO) variety. The opposite, normally
closed or NC type, is normally a short
circuit which opens when triggered.
The inputs to this alarm can be either normally open (NO) or normally
closed (NC) types and more than one
can be used per input if connected
in parallel or series respectively. You
cannot mix NO and NC types together
on one input but you can have NO
sensors on one input and NC sensors
on the other input circuit.
The intruder circuit has been
designed to minimise current consumption so as to conserve the smoke
alarm battery as much as possible.
Actual life of the battery will depend
on the amount of use the RoomGuard
is given. It typically draws 250µA
when armed and zero current when
disarmed. A 1Ah (1000mAh) alkaline
battery will provide a nominal 5.5
months of continuous use.
In practice, if the RoomGuard
is armed for 12 hours per day you
could expect the battery to provide
over eight months of use, including
the consumption of the smoke alarm
itself. This is significantly longer than
the recommended time for batteries
in smoke alarms: fire authorities say
they should be changed every time you
change your clocks for daylight saving
(ie, roughly every six months). What
readers in states without daylight
saving do we’re not sure!
The RoomGuard circuit is housed
in a small plastic case which can be
mounted anywhere practical: inside a
cupboard, behind a bedhead, in fact, in
any “hidden” location. The wires from
the RoomGuard to the smoke alarm
need to be hidden as much as possible
– ideally, they should be taken up the
wall and into the ceiling cavity. The
wires could then be brought out to the
smoke alarm unit (which is normally
mounted on the ceiling).
Wires to the sensor inputs could run
down the wall to the floor and then
under the floor to the sensor switches – or perhaps these could also run
through the ceiling cavity, especially
if they went to devices such as PIR
detectors.
Anyway, we’re getting a little ahead
of ourselves. Let’s look at how the
system works.
The block diagram (Fig.1) shows
the general arrangement of the Room
April 2000 29
Fig.1: follow this
block diagram and
the text – and you
should have no
trouble working
out just what the
RoomGuard does.
Guard alarm. It consists of three sensor
inputs and three timers – a delay timer
for one of the inputs, an exit delay
timer and an “alarm on” timer which
keeps the alarm sounding even if the
input sensor is quickly returned to its
normal state.
The two instant alarm inputs (IC1a
and IC1b) directly trigger the alarmon timer (IC2) immediately while the
delayed input (IC1c) activates the delay timer which triggers the alarm-on
timer after about 25 seconds. When
activated, the alarm-on timer drives an
optocoupler which is used to short out
the “Test” switch on the smoke alarm
to sound the siren.
The arm/disarm switch (S1) incorporates an exit delay so that the
RoomGuard is initially disabled for
a short time (about 24 seconds) to allow exit from the room; this stops the
sensors from having any effect even if
they are triggered. After this delay the
RoomGuard becomes fully active. A
bi-colour LED (LED1) shows the two
states – disabled and armed.
The delay circuits do not affect the
smoke alarm operation in any way – if
there was a fire in that 24 seconds (or
any time thereafter) the smoke detector would scream its head off!
Of course the siren is shared between the smoke alarm and the Room
Guard and so when the siren sounds,
you have to decide if it is an intruder
or a fire that caused the alarm. Here’s
a clue: fires are hotter than intruders
and have lots of smoke.
The circuit for the RoomGuard is
shown in Fig.2. It uses just four lowcost ICs, several resistors, capacitors
and diodes, a switch and the bi-coloured LED.
IC1 contains four exclusive-OR
gates. The output of these gates (eg,
pin 4) is only high whenever one
of its inputs (eg, pin 5 and 6) is at a
different logic level to the other. So
if pin 5 goes high before pin 6, we
get a short-duration high output. If
pin 6 reaches the same logic level (its
upper threshold voltage), the output
then goes low.
Both instant inputs work the same
way, so we will concentrate on Input
1. It can operate with either normally
open (NO) or normally (NC) contacts
in the sensors. If the contact is initially
closed both inputs to IC1a are low and
the output is low.
When the switch opens, the 0.22µF
capacitor and 1µF capacitor both start
to charge to the positive supply voltage
via the 1MΩ resistor. But the smaller
0.22µF capacitor charges faster than
Inside the RoomGuard controller box. Everything is mounted on a single PC board with connections to both the smoke
detector (left side) and alarm sensor devices (right side) via on-board terminal blocks. At this stage no sensors were fitted.
30 Silicon Chip
the 1µF capacitor and so pin 5 reaches its upper threshold before pin 6.
Therefore the output (pin 4) goes high.
Should the switch close again, pin
5 will be low but pin 6 will stay high
until the 1µF capacitor discharges via
the 100kΩ resistor. Thus we get a high
output when the switch closes. Note
that for this type of circuit to work
we must have the delay from the 1µF
input longer than the delay for the
0.22µF input.
The time constant (the time it takes
for the capacitor to charge to 63% of
the applied voltage) is set at 0.22 seconds for the 0.22µF capacitor (time
constant T = R x C where R is in ohms
and C is in Farads – or 1,000,000 x
.00000022) when the switch opens.
Similarly, the 1µF capacitor time
constant is 1.1 seconds when the
switch opens ([1,000,000 + 100,000]
x .000001). When the switch closes,
the 0.22µF input goes low virtually
instantly, while the 1µF capacitor
must discharge via the 100kΩ resistor,
giving a time constant of 100ms.
A reverse operation occurs if the
sensors have normally open contacts.
Both gate inputs are held high by the
charged capacitors but if the sensor
contacts close, pin 5 goes low immediately while the capacitor at pin 6 must
discharge through the 100kΩ resistor.
Therefore the gate output goes high.
The outputs of IC1a or IC1b drive
gate IC1d via diode D1 and/or D2.
IC1d is set up as a buffer so when pin
9 goes high, so does pin 10. When this
happens, pin 10 charges the 0.15µF
capacitor to the 9V supply rail. When
pin 10 goes low, pin 2 of IC2 is pulled
low to trigger the alarm-on timer.
The .015µF capacitor charges via the
560kΩ resistor so that the trigger input
goes high after about 10ms. Diode D5
prevents the pin 2 (trigger) input from
going above the 9V supply whenever
pin 10 of IC1d goes high. Without
D5, the trigger input to IC2 could be
damaged by excessive voltage.
IC2 is a 7555 connected as a mono
stable timer. The 220µF capacitor at
its threshold input (pin 6) is charged
via the 560kΩ and 10kΩ resistors
towards the positive supply. During
the charging period, the output (pin
3) is high. After about 138 seconds, or
a little over two minutes, the 220µF
capacitor is charged to 2/3rds the supply voltage. Pin 3 then goes low and
the 220µF capacitor is discharged via
the 10kΩ resistor and pin 7. The 10kΩ
resistor limits the discharge current
through pin 7.
IC4 is an optocoupler which contains a LED and a phototransistor.
When the LED is off, the photo
transistor is off and when the LED is
on, the phototransistor is on. But there
is no electrical connection between
the two devices.
Fig.2: there’s not a great deal to the RoomGuard because the alarm itself is actually in the smoke detector. All we need to
do is sense the intruder and tell the smoke alarm’s siren to sound. Operation of the smoke detector remains unaltered.
April 2000 31
3*
2*
Parts List
1 battery-operated smoke
detector (see text)
1 PC board, code 03303001,
62mm x 105mm
1 front panel label 127 x 63mm
1 plastic case 130 x 68 x 44mm
1 6-way PC terminals
1 4-way PC terminals
1 SPDT toggle switch, S1
1 50mm length of 0.8mm tinned
copper wire
2 10mm rubber grommets
3 PC stakes
Semiconductors
1 4030 quad XOR gate (IC1)
2 7555, LMC555CN, TLC555CN,
CMOS 555 timer (IC2, IC3)
1 4N28 optocoupler (IC4)
6 1N4148, 1N914 switching
diodes (D1-D6)
1 5mm bicolour (red/green) LED
(LED1)
Capacitors
1 220µF 16VW PC electrolytic
1 100µF 16VW PC electrolytic
2 47µF 16VW PC electrolytic
2 10µF 16VW PC electrolytic
3 1µF 16VW PC electrolytic
3 0.22µF MKT polyester
2 0.1µF MKT polyester
2 .015µF MKT polyester
Resistors (0.25W 1%)
5 1MΩ
5 560kΩ1 470kΩ
3 100kΩ
3 10kΩ 1 1kΩ
1 470Ω
Misccellaneous
Suitable length 4-core cable
Suitable alarm detection devices
(see text and panel)
32 Silicon Chip
1*
The high pin 3 output of IC2 drives
the LED within IC4. This in turn
switches on the internal transistor
which is connected across the “test”
switch in the smoke alarm. The smoke
alarm is tricked into believing the test
switch has been pressed – and sounds
its siren.
The output transistor in IC4 is fully
floating with respect to the power supply, which means that it can operate
the test terminals of the smoke alarm
regardless of whether it is connected
to switch to ground or to the positive
supply. However, it is important to
have the polarity correct when connecting to the test switch terminals
so that the optocoupler transistor will
operate. This can be easily determined
with a multimeter.
Entry delay
Timer IC3, which is triggered by the
delayed sensor circuit (IC1c), operates
in a similar manner to IC2, charging
a 47µF capacitor to give a nominal
24-second time period which gives
you enough time to enter and turn off
the (hidden!) “arm” switch, S1. Like
the other input circuits, its output also
triggers IC2 (the alarm-on timer), in
this case via diode D4 and IC1d. The
100kΩ resistor holds pin 9 of IC1d low
when the diodes are not conducting,
preventing false alarms.
Exit delay
The exit delay is provided by holding the pin 4 reset inputs to IC2 and
IC3 low for a short period. This prevents these timers from being triggered
immediately after the circuit is armed.
To initiate the exit delay, when S1
applies power the 100µF capacitor
(C1) charges via the 1MΩ resistor
Fig.3: this is the component
overlay of the RoomGuard with
the PC board pattern shown
underneath. Use this diagram in
conjunction with the photograph
when assembling the PC board.
toward the positive supply. When
the reset inputs of IC2 and IC3 (pin
4) reach about 1V, the timers are free
to operate normally. Moving S1 to
off disconnects the exit delay circuit
from the 9V supply and connects it to
ground. This will discharge capacitor
C1 via the 10kΩ resistor and D6.
LED1 is included to indicate the
RoomGuard status. When switched
to the armed position, the red LED in
the bicoloured LED1 lights briefly as
the 47µF capacitor charges towards
the ground supply rail via that LED
and 1kΩ resistor. When the switch
is moved to off, the +9V supply is
removed and the green LED within
LED1 lights momentarily as the 47µF
capacitor discharges through it.
Note that the bicolour LED only
confirms the status of the RoomGaurd
as you switch it on or off. At all other
times the LED is off.
If you use a key operated switch
instead of the toggle type, it will only
have a single pole switch contact.
Connect it between the common and
armed positions for S1.
A 1MΩ resistor will be required to
discharge capacitor C2 when power is
switched off. The green disarmed LED
will not momentarily flash with this
arrangement but the red armed LED indication will still operate. The resistor
has been catered for on the PC board
and is designated R1. In this case, the
more expensive bicolour LED could be
substituted with a standard red LED.
Construction
The RoomGuard is housed in a plastic case measuring 130 x 68 x 44mm.
The components are mounted on a PC
board coded 03303001 and measuring
62 x 105mm.
Begin construction by checking the
PC board for shorts between tracks
and for any hairline cracks. Check
that the PC board is a neat fit into
the integral side clips in the case (no
screws are required for mounting the
PC board). The sides may need to be
filed slightly so that the PC board fits
easily in the case.
You can begin assembly of the PC
board by inserting the resistors and
link. Use the accompanying resistor
colour code table to assist you in
selecting the correct value for each
position. A digital multimeter could
also be used to measure the values.
Insert the diodes and ICs next, taking care with their orientation. The
capacitors can be installed next. The
accompanying capacitor code table
shows the possible labelling for each
value. The electrolytic capacitors are
marked directly in µF and must be
oriented with the polarity shown on
the overlay diagram.
Solder in PC stakes for switch S1
and the 6-way and 4-way PC terminals. LED1 is mounted so that the
top of its lens is 31mm above the PC
board, while switch S1 is mounted by
soldering the terminals to the top of
the PC stakes.
Resistor R1 will only be required if
you intend to use a single pole single
throw (SPST) switch for S1 (for example, a key-type switch). Connect the
switch between positions 1 & 3.
Testing
You can test the RoomGuard operation without connecting it to a smoke
alarm. First, connect power between
the +9V and 0V terminals using a 9V
battery or power supply. (Any voltage
from about 6-12V can be used without
changing the circuit operation).
Check that the ICs have power by
measuring between the 0V terminal
and the positive supply pin. This is
pin 14 on IC1 and pin 8 on IC2 & IC3.
Check that LED1 lights when switch
S1 is toggled between on and off and
note the comment earlier in the article
about the LED operation if a single
throw key-switch is used for S1.
Connect your multimeter between
the test terminal outputs with the
plus side to the positive lead on the
multimeter. Set the multimeter to read
resistance. Switch off the alarm and
then switch it to the armed position.
The meter should read over 10MΩ.
Try to trigger the alarm by momen-
We haven’t been too specific about how to connect the RoomGuard to a Smoke
Alarm because there are so many on the market. However, all have “Test” buttons
to check the battery. We simply wire across this switch and to +9V and 0V.
tarily shorting the GND and input 1
terminals. These are the instant terminals but do not expect anything to
happen since the delayed exit timer
should still be operating.
Continue to short these terminals
every second or so until the multi
meter reads a low resistance value.
This should occur after about 20-25
seconds. The low resistance indicates
that the circuit has triggered. The multimeter reading should be about 4.7kΩ.
Check that this alarm time lasts for
about two minutes after which the
resistance reading should again go
high. Now switch the alarm off again
and then on to arm the circuit. Check
the second input by waiting for 25 seconds and triggering between ground
and input 2. The resistance should
again go low.
Finally, the delayed input can be
tested by waiting until the resistance
goes high again and retriggering the
alarm by shorting the ground and input 3 terminals. Check that the resistance goes low after about 24 seconds
from triggering.
The case will require drilling at each
end for the wire entry grommets. Also
the lid needs two holes – one for the
LED and the second for the switch. Use
the front panel artwork as a guide to
the positioning of these holes or refer
to the photograph if using the Jaycar
plastic case with the grid on the lid.
The label can now be glued to the
front panel.
Installation
Before we look at the alarm detection devices, we’ll examine how
the RoomGuard is connected to your
smoke alarm.
First of all, though, we should
point out that the RoomGuard is
designed to be used with a low-cost
battery-only powered unit – it should
not be installed on a mains-powered,
battery-backed smoke alarm.
Having said that, the RoomGuard
should operate with virtually any battery-operated smoke alarm available.
It will be very difficult, if not impossible, to attach the wiring to the smoke
alarm in situ (ie, on the ceiling). So if
you’re connecting to an existing smoke
alarm, first of all carefully remove the
April 2000 33
At left is a full-size front panel which can be glued to the case lid, shown above.
You can see how the “armed” switch and indicator LED holes have been lined
up on the lid’s dot grid in this plastic case from Jaycar. If you use another case
(without a grid) use the label as a drilling template.
screws holding your smoke alarm in
place (some smoke alarms simply
twist to remove them).
Take out the smoke alarm battery
then carefully remove the PC board.
Sometimes this is a little tricky – there
are often hidden catches which must
be pushed back. Few modern smoke
alarms use screws to hold the PC board
in place (screws cost money!)
There are four wires which connect
the RoomGuard to the smoke alarm.
The first two, the “+” and “-” battery
connections, are very easy. Simply
solder the wires to the points on the
smoke detector PC board where the
battery wires connect. Some smoke
alarms use an integral battery connector but even this is not hard to identify.
Just make sure you get the polarity
right: “+” to “+” and “-” to “-” (or red
to red and black to black).
Now for the more difficult (though
not too difficult) part – identifying
the test button connections. In many
cases you will find little more than a
piece of spring metal which shorts out
when a tab or button on the outer case
is pressed. Line up the PC board with
the test button and see where it lies
on the PC board. Turn the board over
to the track side and identify which
two points are shorted when the test
button is pressed.
As we mentioned before, you need
to know if the test button connects
power to the test button, or whether
it shorts to ground. With a multimeter
(preferably digital) check the polarity
of the two terminals of the test button.
The more positive terminal connects
to the + terminal of connector 2 in the
RoomGuard and obviously the more
negative terminal to the – terminal of
connector 2.
Some test buttons short to the radioactive smoke detector case itself which
is often stainless steel or aluminium.
Resistor Colour Codes
No.
5
5
1
3
3
1
1
Value
1MΩ
560kΩ
470kΩ
100kΩ
10kΩ
1kΩ
470Ω
34 Silicon Chip
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black green brown
green blue yellow brown
yellow violet yellow brown
brown black yellow brown
brown black orange brown
brown black red brown
yellow violet brown brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black yellow brown
green blue black orange brown
yellow violet black orange brown
brown black black orange brown
brown black black red brown
brown black black brown brown
yellow violet black black brown
This may be difficult (or impossible)
to solder to so an alligator clip might
be used to clip to the case.
Alarm sensors/detectors
You will need to install the Room
Guard in a hidden place that is also
convenient for access. Note the method of wiring normally open (NO) or
normally closed (NC) switches: NO
types all connect in parallel while NC
types connect in series.
Some types of sensor are only available in one type but if you have the
choice of using either normally open
or normally closed sensors, we recommend normally open devices because
these will have the lowest current
drain in our circuit, thus making the
battery last longest.
While we have called this alarm a
RoomGuard, it can protect a whole
home. You should divide the house
or home unit into three sectors for the
three inputs on the alarm.
The instant inputs can be used for
the windows and most doors except
for the main door that you need to
make your entry. This door sensor
should be connected to the delayed
entry input.
Reed switches are commonly used
for alarm sensors. These are tiny, magnetically-activated switches which
can be hidden inside door jambs and
window frames, with small magnets
hidden in the door or windows them-
Capacitor Codes
Value
0.22µF
0.1µF
.015µF
EIA
224
104
153
IEC
220n
100n
15n
Fig.4: the full-size artwork for the PC board pattern. This can be used to
make your own board or as a checking aid for commercial boards.
selves.
Reed switches are (usually) normally open but when the magnet is
brought close by, they close. Thus an
opening window or door can remove
the magnet and so cause the reed
switch to open, triggering the alarm.
Note, however, that some reed switch-
es are normally closed and some even
have both NO & NC contacts.
Another possibility, usually even
easier to mount, is one of the small
passive infrared (PIR) detectors
which detect the movement of people. These can be either normally
open or normally closed devices
but the disadvantage is that they
will require their own power supply
(usually 12V). Any passive infrared
unit which will be triggered when
you enter the house to switch off the
alarm must be also connected to the
delayed entry input.
There are many other types of detection devices – pressure mats which go
under carpets or doormats, light beam
relays which you can buy or make
yourself, even the old spy novel trick
of tying a piece of very, very fine wire
across a doorway or entrance so that
anyone walking through will break it.
(It has to be extremely fine so they cannot see it and also to ensure it breaks
when disturbed). You may come up
with even more ideas to protect your
room.
Finally, when you’ve completed
installation of both the RoomGuard
and your alarm sensors, testing the
unit is simply a matter of triggering
all of the sensors you have connected.
Get ready to turn it off quickly,
though: smoke detector sirens are
SC
designed to be loud!
Alarm Intruder Detection Devices
Here are a few devices from the Jaycar Electronics catalog (free in this issue of SILICON
CHIP) which are commonly used to trigger alarm systems.
As mentioned in the text, magnetic reed
switches are commonly used to alert an alarm
system when an intrusion takes place.
As their name suggests, these switches
are magnetically activated – when a magnet
is brought into close proximity to the switch
a reed inside it makes (or less usually breaks)
a contact, which activates the alarm.
Where wood-framed doors and
windows are used, a completely
“invisible” reed
Photo 1
switch
can be used, as shown in
photo 1. The magnet is housed in a hole
drilled in the door or window itself while the
reed is housed in the architrave or frame so
that when the door or window is closed, the
two parts line up. The connecting cables can
go inside the cavity and no-one
will know there is an alarm
in place.
Where aluminium or steel doors
or windows need
protection, the reed
Photo 2
switches can be the surface-mount type shown
in photos 2 and 3. Naturally these can be seen
which usually means slightly less security.
Reed switches are usually normally-open
(NO) devices but the reed switch set shown
in photo 3 is different: it is both NO and NC
– you select which way you
want it to work by wiring the appropriate
terminals.
The door
Photo 3
switch shown in
photo 4 is similar to
that found in cars to turn their interior lights
on and off. It is actually a nor-mally closed
device but is held in the “NO” position by the
closed door.
When the
door opens a
Photo 4
spring causes two parts to short
together.
These are cheap, reliable switches but
are sometimes more difficult to fit than other
types.
The last detection device shown here is
a Passive Infrared (PIR) detector (photo
5) which senses
the movement of
people.
They used to
be very expensive but are now
relatively cheap.
PIRs usually
have both NO
and NC contacts
but also require
Photo 5
a 12V DC supply. They can
also sometimes be triggered
by pets, etc.
Finally, note how NO and NC devices are
wired: NO are always wired in parallel, while
NC are always wired in series
April 2000 35
Silicon Chip
Back Issues
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January 1993: Flea-Power AM Radio Transmitter; High Intensity LED
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May 1991: 13.5V 25A Power Supply For Transceivers; Stereo Audio
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June 1991: A Corner Reflector Antenna For UHF TV; Build A 4-Channel
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Active Filter For CW Reception; Tuning In To Satellite TV, Pt.1.
September 1993: Automatic Nicad Battery Charger/Discharger; Stereo
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+5V to ±15V DC Converter; Remote-Controlled Cockroach.
July 1991: Loudspeaker Protector For Stereo Amplifiers; 4-Channel
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October 1993: Courtesy Light Switch-Off Timer For Cars; Wireless
Microphone For Musicians; Stereo Preamplifier With IR Remote
Control, Pt.2; Electronic Engine Management, Pt.1.
September 1991: Digital Altimeter For Gliders & Ultralights; Ultrasonic
Switch For Mains Appliances; The Basics Of A/D & D/A Conversion;
Plotting The Course Of Thunderstorms.
November 1993: High Efficiency Inverter For Fluorescent Tubes; Stereo
Preamplifier With IR Remote Control, Pt.3; Siren Sound Generator;
Engine Management, Pt.2; Experiments For Games Cards.
October 1991: Build A Talking Voltmeter For Your PC, Pt.1; SteamSound
Simulator For Model Railways Mk.II; Magnetic Field Strength Meter;
Digital Altimeter For Gliders, Pt.2; Military Applications Of R/C Aircraft.
December 1993: Remote Controller For Garage Doors; Build A LED
Stroboscope; Build A 25W Audio Amplifier Module; A 1-Chip Melody
Generator; Engine Management, Pt.3; Index To Volume 6.
November 1991: Build A Colour TV Pattern Generator, Pt.1; A Junkbox
2-Valve Receiver; Flashing Alarm Light For Cars; Digital Altimeter For
Gliders, Pt.3; Build A Talking Voltmeter For Your PC, Pt.2; Build a
Turnstile Antenna For Weather Satellite Reception.
January 1994: 3A 40V Adjustable Power Supply; Switching Regulator For Solar Panels; Printer Status Indicator; Mini Drill Speed
Controller; Stepper Motor Controller; Active Filter Design; Engine
Management, Pt.4.
December 1991: TV Transmitter For VCRs With UHF Modulators;
Infrared Light Beam Relay; Colour TV Pattern Generator, Pt.2; Index
To Volume 4.
February 1994: Build A 90-Second Message Recorder; 12-240VAC
200W Inverter; 0.5W Audio Amplifier; 3A 40V Adjustable Power
Supply; Engine Management, Pt.5; Airbags In Cars – How They Work.
January 1992: 4-Channel Guitar Mixer; Adjustable 0-45V 8A Power
Supply, Pt.1; Baby Room Monitor/FM Transmitter; Experiments For
Your Games Card.
March 1994: Intelligent IR Remote Controller; 50W (LM3876) Audio
Amplifier Module; Level Crossing Detector For Model Railways; Voice
Activated Switch For FM Microphones; Engine Management, Pt.6.
March 1992: TV Transmitter For VHF VCRs; Thermostatic Switch For
Car Radiator Fans; Coping With Damaged Computer Directories; Guide
Valve Substitution In Vintage Radios.
April 1994: Sound & Lights For Model Railway Level Crossings; Discrete
Dual Supply Voltage Regulator; Universal Stereo Preamplifier; Digital
Water Tank Gauge; Engine Management, Pt.7.
April 1992: IR Remote Control For Model Railroads; Differential Input
Buffer For CROs; Understanding Computer Memory; Aligning Vintage
Radio Receivers, Pt.1.
May 1994: Fast Charger For Nicad Batteries; Induction Balance Metal
Locator; Multi-Channel Infrared Remote Control; Dual Electronic Dice;
Simple Servo Driver Circuits; Engine Management, Pt.8.
May 1992: Build A Telephone Intercom; Electronic Doorbell; Battery
Eliminator For Personal Players; Infrared Remote Control For Model
Railroads, Pt.2; Aligning Vintage Radio Receivers, Pt.2.
June 1994: 200W/350W Mosfet Amplifier Module; A Coolant Level
Alarm For Your Car; 80-Metre AM/CW Transmitter For Amateurs;
Converting Phono Inputs To Line Inputs; PC-Based Nicad Battery
Monitor; Engine Management, Pt.9.
SPECIAL STOCK CLEAROUT:
4 ISSUES FOR $10 (incl. p&p)*
June 1992: Multi-Station Headset Intercom, Pt.1; Video Switcher For
Camcorders & VCRs; IR Remote Control For Model Railroads, Pt.3;
15-Watt 12-240V Inverter; A Look At Hard Disc Drives.
August 1992: Automatic SLA Battery Charger; Miniature 1.5V To 9V
July 1994: Build A 4-Bay Bow-Tie UHF Antenna; PreChamp 2-Transistor
DC Converter; 1kW Dummy Load Box For Audio Amplifiers; TrouPreamplifier; Steam Train Whistle & Diesel Horn Simulator; Portable 6V
bleshooting Vintage Radio Receivers; The MIDI Interface Explained. *Offer
SLA applies
Battery Charger;
Electronic
Pt.10.
to all issues
upEngine
to andManagement,
including December
1994. Applies to Australian orders only and subscriber
discounts do not apply. Offer closes 31st May, 2000.
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Detach and mail to:
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Collaroy, NSW, Australia 2097.
Or call (02) 9979 5644 & quote your credit card
details or fax the details to (02) 9979 6503.
Email: silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au
August 1994: High-Power Dimmer For Incandescent Lights; Microprocessor-Controlled Morse Keyer; Dual Diversity Tuner For FM
Microphones, Pt.1; Nicad Zapper; Engine Management, Pt.11.
September 1994: Automatic Discharger For Nicad Battery Packs;
MiniVox Voice Operated Relay; Image Intensified Night Viewer; AM
Radio For Weather Beacons; Dual Diversity Tuner For FM Microphones,
Pt.2; Engine Management, Pt.12.
October 1994: How Dolby Surround Sound Works; Dual Rail Variable
Power Supply; Build A Talking Headlight Reminder; Electronic Ballast
For Fluorescent Lights; Build A Temperature Controlled Soldering
Station; Electronic Engine Management, Pt.13.
November 1994: Dry Cell Battery Rejuvenator; Novel Alphanumeric
Clock; 80-Metre DSB Amateur Transmitter; Twin-Cell Nicad Discharger
(See May 1993); How To Plot Patterns Direct to PC Boards.
December 1994: Dolby Pro-Logic Surround Sound Decoder, Pt.1;
Easy-To-Build Car Burglar Alarm; Three-Spot Low Distortion Sinewave
Oscillator; Clifford – A Pesky Electronic Cricket; Remote Control System
for Models, Pt.1; Index to Vol.7.
January 1995: Sun Tracker For Solar Panels; Battery Saver For Torches;
Dolby Pro-Logic Surround Sound Decoder, Pt.2; Dual Channel UHF
Remote Control; Stereo Microphone Preamplifier.
February 1995: 50-Watt/Channel Stereo Amplifier Module; Digital
Effects Unit For Musicians; 6-Channel Thermometer With LCD Readout;
Wide Range Electrostatic Loudspeakers, Pt.1; Oil Change Timer For
Cars; Remote Control System For Models, Pt.2.
March 1995: 50 Watt Per Channel Stereo Amplifier, Pt.1; Subcarrier
Decoder For FM Receivers; Wide Range Electrostatic Loudspeakers,
Pt.2; IR Illuminator For CCD Cameras; Remote Control System For
Models, Pt.3; Simple CW Filter.
April 1995: FM Radio Trainer, Pt.1; Photographic Timer For Dark
rooms; Balanced Microphone Preamp. & Line Filter; 50W/Channel
Stereo Amplifier, Pt.2; Wide Range Electrostatic Loudspeakers, Pt.3;
8-Channel Decoder For Radio Remote Control.
May 1995: Build A Guitar Headphone Amplifier; FM Radio Trainer, Pt.2;
Transistor/Mosfet Tester For DMMs; A 16-Channel Decoder For Radio
Remote Control; Introduction to Satellite TV.
June 1995: Build A Satellite TV Receiver; Train Detector For Model
Railways; 1W Audio Amplifier Trainer; Low-Cost Video Security System;
Multi-Channel Radio Control Transmitter For Models, Pt.1.
July 1995: Electric Fence Controller; How To Run Two Trains On A
Single Track (Incl. Lights & Sound); Setting Up A Satellite TV Ground
Station; Build A Reliable Door Minder.
August 1995: Fuel Injector Monitor For Cars; Gain Controlled Microphone Preamp; Audio Lab PC-Controlled Test Instrument, Pt.1; How
To Identify IDE Hard Disk Drive Parameters.
September 1995: Railpower Mk.2 Walkaround Throttle For Model
Railways, Pt.1; Keypad Combination Lock; The Vader Voice; Jacob’s
Ladder Display; Audio Lab PC-Controlled Test Instrument, Pt.2.
October 1995: Geiger Counter; 3-Way Bass Reflex Loudspeaker
System; Railpower Mk.2 Walkaround Throttle For Model Railways,
Pt.2; Fast Charger For Nicad Batteries; Digital Speedometer & Fuel
Gauge For Cars, Pt.1.
November 1995: Mixture Display For Fuel Injected Cars; CB Transverter
For The 80M Amateur Band, Pt.1; PIR Movement Detector; Dolby Pro
Logic Surround Sound Decoder Mk.2, Pt.1; Digital Speedometer &
Fuel Gauge For Cars, Pt.2.
December 1995: Engine Immobiliser; 5-Band Equaliser; CB Transverter
For The 80M Amateur Band, Pt.2; Subwoofer Controller; Dolby Pro
Logic Surround Sound Decoder Mk.2, Pt.2; Knock Sensing In Cars;
Index To Volume 8.
January 1996: Surround Sound Mixer & Decoder, Pt.1; Magnetic Card
Reader; Build An Automatic Sprinkler Controller; IR Remote Control
For The Railpower Mk.2; Recharging Nicad Batteries For Long Life.
February 1996: Three Remote Controls To Build; Woofer Stopper
Mk.2; 10-Minute Kill Switch For Smoke Detectors; Basic Logic Trainer;
Surround Sound Mixer & Decoder, Pt.2.
March 1996: Programmable Electronic Ignition System; Zener Diode
Tester For DMMs; Automatic Level Control For PA Systems; 20ms
Delay For Surround Sound Decoders; Multi-Channel Radio Control
Transmitter; Pt.2; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.1.
April 1996: Cheap Battery Refills For Mobile Telephones; 125W
Audio Power Amplifier Module; Knock Indicator For Leaded Petrol
Engines; Multi-Channel Radio Control Transmitter; Pt.3; Cathode Ray
Oscilloscopes, Pt.2.
May 1996: Upgrading The CPU In Your PC; High Voltage Insulation
Tester; Knightrider Bi-Directional LED Chaser; Simple Duplex Intercom
Using Fibre Optic Cable; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.3.
September 1996: VGA Oscilloscope, Pt.3; IR Stereo Headphone Link,
Pt.1; High Quality PA Loudspeaker; 3-Band HF Amateur Radio Receiver;
Feedback On Programmable Ignition (see March 1996); Cathode Ray
Oscilloscopes, Pt.5.
September 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.5 (Software Problems
& DOS Games); A Blocked Air-Filter Alarm; A Waa-Waa Pedal For Your
Guitar; Build A Plasma Display Or Jacob’s Ladder; Gear Change Indicator
For Cars; Capacity Indicator For Rechargeable Batteries.
October 1996: Send Video Signals Over Twisted Pair Cable; Power
Control With A Light Dimmer; 600W DC-DC Converter For Car Hifi
Systems, Pt.1; IR Stereo Headphone Link, Pt.2; Build A Multi-Media
Sound System, Pt.1; Multi-Channel Radio Control Transmitter, Pt.8.
October 1998: CPU Upgrades & Overclocking; Lab Quality AC Millivoltmeter, Pt.1; PC-Controlled Stress-O-Meter; Versatile Electronic Guitar
Limiter; 12V Trickle Charger For Float Conditions; Adding An External
Battery Pack To Your Flashgun.
November 1996: Adding A Parallel Port To Your Computer; 8-Channel
Stereo Mixer, Pt.1; Low-Cost Fluorescent Light Inverter; How To Repair
Domestic Light Dimmers; Build A Multi-Media Sound System, Pt.2;
600W DC-DC Converter For Car Hifi Systems, Pt.2.
November 1998: The Christmas Star (Microprocessor-Controlled
Christmas Decoration); A Turbo Timer For Cars; Build A Poker Machine,
Pt.1; FM Transmitter For Musicians; Lab Quality AC Millivoltmeter, Pt.2;
Setting Up A LAN Using TCP/IP; Understanding Electric Lighting, Pt.9;
Improving AM Radio Reception, Pt.1.
December 1996: CD Recorders – The Next Add-On For Your PC; Active
Filter Cleans Up CW Reception; Fast Clock For Railway Modellers; Laser
Pistol & Electronic Target; Build A Sound Level Meter; 8-Channel Stereo
Mixer, Pt.2; Index To Volume 9.
January 1997: How To Network Your PC; Control Panel For Multiple
Smoke Alarms, Pt.1; Build A Pink Noise Source (For Sound Level Meter
Calibration); Computer Controlled Dual Power Supply, Pt.1; Digi-Temp
Monitors Eight Temperatures.
February 1997: Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.6; PC-Controlled
Moving Message Display; Computer Controlled Dual Power Supply,
Pt.2; Alert-A-Phone Loud Sounding Alarm; Control Panel For Multiple
Smoke Alarms, Pt.2.
March 1997: Driving A Computer By Remote Control; Plastic Power
PA Amplifier (175W); Signalling & Lighting For Model Railways; Build
A Jumbo LED Clock; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.7.
April 1997: Avoiding Win95 Hassles With Motherboard Upgrades;
Simple Timer With No ICs; Digital Voltmeter For Cars; Loudspeaker
Protector For Stereo Amplifiers; Model Train Controller; A Look At
Signal Tracing; Pt.1; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.8.
May 1997: Teletext Decoder For PCs; Build An NTSC-PAL Converter;
Neon Tube Modulator For Light Systems; Traffic Lights For A Model
Intersection; The Spacewriter – It Writes Messages In Thin Air; A Look
At Signal Tracing; Pt.2; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.9.
June 1997: PC-Controlled Thermometer/Thermostat; Colour TV
Pattern Generator, Pt.1; Build An Audio/RF Signal Tracer; High-Current
Speed Controller For 12V/24V Motors; Manual Control Circuit For A
Stepper Motor; Fail-Safe Module For The Throttle Servo; Cathode Ray
Oscilloscopes, Pt.10.
July 1997: Infrared Remote Volume Control; A Flexible Interface Card
For PCs; Points Controller For Model Railways; Simple Square/Triangle
Waveform Generator; Colour TV Pattern Generator, Pt.2; An In-Line
Mixer For Radio Control Receivers.
August 1997: The Bass Barrel Subwoofer; 500 Watt Audio Power
Amplifier Module; A TENs Unit For Pain Relief; Addressable PC Card
For Stepper Motor Control; Remote Controlled Gates For Your Home.
September 1997: Multi-Spark Capacitor Discharge Ignition; 500W
Audio Power Amplifier, Pt.2; A Video Security System For Your Home;
PC Card For Controlling Two Stepper Motors; HiFi On A Budget; Win95,
MSDOS.SYS & The Registry.
October 1997: Build A 5-Digit Tachometer; Add Central Locking To Your
Car; PC-Controlled 6-Channel Voltmeter; 500W Audio Power Amplifier,
Pt.3; Customising The Windows 95 Start Menu.
November 1997: Heavy Duty 10A 240VAC Motor Speed Controller;
Easy-To-Use Cable & Wiring Tester; Build A Musical Doorbell; Relocating Your CD-ROM Drive; Replacing Foam Speaker Surrounds;
Understanding Electric Lighting Pt.1.
December 1998: Protect Your Car With The Engine Immobiliser Mk.2;
Thermocouple Adaptor For DMMs; A Regulated 12V DC Plugpack; Build
Your Own Poker Machine, Pt.2; Improving AM Radio Reception, Pt.2;
Mixer Module For F3B Glider Operations.
January 1999: The Y2K Bug & A Few Other Worries; High-Voltage
Megohm Tester; Getting Going With BASIC Stamp; LED Bargraph
Ammeter For Cars; Keypad Engine Immobiliser; Improving AM Radio
Reception, Pt.3; Electric Lighting, Pt.10
February 1999: Installing A Computer Network (Network Types, Hubs,
Switches & Routers); Making Front Panels For Your Projects; Low
Distortion Audio Signal Generator, Pt.1; Command Control Decoder
For Model Railways; Build A Digital Capacitance Meter; Remote Control
Tester; Electric Lighting, Pt.11.
March 1999: Getting Started With Linux; Pt.1; Build A Digital
Anemometer; 3-Channel Current Monitor With Data Logging; Simple
DIY PIC Programmer; Easy-To-Build Audio Compressor; Low Distortion
Audio Signal Generator, Pt.2; Electric Lighting, Pt.12.
April 1999: Getting Started With Linux; Pt.2; High-Power Electric
Fence Controller; Bass Cube Subwoofer; Programmable Thermostat/
Thermometer; Build An Infrared Sentry; Rev Limiter For Cars; Electric
Lighting, Pt.13; Autopilots For Radio-Controlled Model Aircraft.
May 1999: The Line Dancer Robot; An X-Y Table With Stepper Motor
Control, Pt.1; Three Electric Fence Testers; Heart Of LEDs; Build A
Carbon Monoxide Alarm; Getting Started With Linux; Pt.3.
June 1999: FM Radio Tuner Card For PCs; X-Y Table With Stepper
Motor Control, Pt.2; Programmable Ignition Timing Module For Cars,
Pt.1; Hard Disk Drive Upgrades Without Reinstalling Software; What Is
A Groundplane Antenna?; Getting Started With Linux; Pt.4.
July 1999: Build The Dog Silencer; A 10µH to 19.99mH Inductance
Meter; Build An Audio-Video Transmitter; Programmable Ignition
Timing Module For Cars, Pt.2; XYZ Table With Stepper Motor Control,
Pt.3; The Hexapod Robot.
August 1999: Remote Modem Controller; Daytime Running Lights For
Cars; Build A PC Monitor Checker; Switching Temperature Controller;
XYZ Table With Stepper Motor Control, Pt.4; Electric Lighting, Pt.14;
DOS & Windows Utilities For Reversing Protel PC Board Files.
September 1999: Automatic Addressing On TCP/IP Networks;
Wireless Networking Without The Hassles; Autonomouse The Robot,
Pt.1; Voice Direct Speech Recognition Module; Digital Electrolytic
Capacitance Meter; XYZ Table With Stepper Motor Control, Pt.5;
Peltier-Powered Can Cooler.
October 1999: Sharing A Modem For Internet & Email Access (WinGate); Build The Railpower Model Train Controller, Pt.1; Semiconductor
Curve Tracer; Autonomouse The Robot, Pt.2; XYZ Table With Stepper
Motor Control, Pt.6; Introducing Home Theatre.
December 1997: Build A Speed Alarm For Your Car; Two-Axis Robot
With Gripper; Loudness Control For Car Hifi Systems; Stepper Motor
Driver With Onboard Buffer; Power Supply For Stepper Motor Cards;
Understanding Electric Lighting Pt.2; Index To Volume 10.
November 1999: USB – Hassle-Free Connections TO Your PC; Electric
Lighting, Pt.15; Setting Up An Email Server; Speed Alarm For Cars,
Pt.1; Multi-Colour LED Christmas Tree; Build An Intercom Station
Expander; Foldback Loudspeaker System For Musicians; Railpower
Model Train Controller, Pt.2.
January 1998: Build Your Own 4-Channel Lightshow, Pt.1 (runs off
12VDC or 12VAC); Command Control System For Model Railways, Pt.1;
Pan Controller For CCD Cameras; Build A One Or Two-Lamp Flasher;
Understanding Electric Lighting, Pt.3.
December 1999: Internet Connection Sharing Using Hardware; Electric
Lighting, Pt.16; Index To Volume 12; Build A Solar Panel Regulator;
The PC Powerhouse (gives fixed +12V, +9V, +6V & +5V rails); The
Fortune Finder Metal Locator; Speed Alarm For Cars, Pt.2; Railpower
Model Train Controller, Pt.3.
February 1998: Hot Web Sites For Surplus Bits; Multi-Purpose Fast
Battery Charger, Pt.1; Telephone Exchange Simulator For Testing;
Command Control System For Model Railways, Pt.2; Demonstration
Board For Liquid Crystal Displays; Build Your Own 4-Channel Lightshow, Pt.2; Understanding Electric Lighting, Pt.4.
April 1998: Automatic Garage Door Opener, Pt.1; 40V 8A Adjustable
Power Supply, Pt.1; PC-Controlled 0-30kHz Sinewave Generator;
Build A Laser Light Show; Understanding Electric Lighting; Pt.6; Jet
Engines In Model Aircraft.
May 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.1; Build A 3-LED Logic Probe;
Automatic Garage Door Opener, Pt.2; Command Control For Model
Railways, Pt.4; 40V 8A Adjustable Power Supply, Pt.2.
June 1996: BassBox CAD Loudspeaker Software Reviewed; Stereo
Simulator (uses delay chip); Rope Light Chaser; Low Ohms Tester
For Your DMM; Automatic 10A Battery Charger.
June 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.2; Understanding Electric
Lighting, Pt.7; Universal High Energy Ignition System; The Roadies’
Friend Cable Tester; Universal Stepper Motor Controller; Command
Control For Model Railways, Pt.5.
July 1996: Installing a Dual Boot Windows System On Your PC; Build
A VGA Digital Oscilloscope, Pt.1; Remote Control Extender For VCRs;
2A SLA Battery Charger; 3-Band Parametric Equaliser; Single Channel
8-bit Data Logger.
July 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.3 (Installing A Modem And
Sorting Out Problems); Build A Heat Controller; 15-Watt Class-A Audio
Amplifier Module; Simple Charger For 6V & 12V SLA Batteries; Automatic Semiconductor Analyser; Understanding Electric Lighting, Pt.8.
August 1996: Electronics on the Internet; Customising the Windows
Desktop; Introduction to IGBTs; Electronic Starter For Fluorescent
Lamps; VGA Oscilloscope, Pt.2; 350W Amplifier Module; Masthead
Amplifier For TV & FM; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.4.
August 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.4 (Adding Extra Memory
To Your PC); Build The Opus One Loudspeaker System; Simple I/O
Card With Automatic Data Logging; Build A Beat Triggered Strobe; A
15-Watt Per Channel Class-A Stereo Amplifier.
January 2000: Spring Reverberation Module; An Audio-Video Test
Generator; Build The Picman Programmable Robot; A Parallel Port
Interface Card; Off-Hook Indicator For Telephone Lines; B&W Nautilus
801 Monitor Loudspeakers (Review).
February 2000: Build A Multi-Sector Sprinkler Controller; A Digital
Voltmeter For Your Car; An Ultrasonic Parking Radar; Build A Safety
Switch Checker; A Sine/Square Wave Oscillator For Your Workbench;
Marantz SR-18 Home Theatre Receiver (Review); The “Hot Chip”
Starter Kit (Review).
March 2000: Doing A Lazarus On An Old Computer; Ultra Low Distortion
100W Amplifier Module, Pt.1; Electronic Wind Vane With 16-LED Display; Glowplug Driver For Powered Models; The OzTrip Car Computer,
Pt.1; Multisim Circuit Design & Simulation Package (Review).
PLEASE NOTE: November 1987 to August 1988, October 1988 to March
1989, June 1989, August 1989, December 1989, May 1990, August
1991, February 1992, July 1992, September 1992, November 1992,
December 1992 and March 1998 are now sold out. All other issues are
presently in stock. For readers wanting articles from sold-out issues,
we can supply photostat copies (or tear sheets) at $7.00 per article
(includes p&p). When supplying photostat articles or back copies, we
automatically supply any relevant notes & errata at no extra charge. A
complete index to all articles published to date is available on floppy
disc for $10 including p&p, or can be downloaded free from our web
site: www.siliconchip.com.au
April 2000 37
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
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SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au
DON’T
UTER
COMP
MISS OMNIBUS
THE
’BUS!
www.siliconchip.com.au
SILICON
CHIP’S
132 Pages
$ 95 *
9
ISBN 0 95852291 X
9780958522910 09
9
780958
522910
IN
LINCLUDES
FEA U
TUR X
E
A collection of computer features from the pages of SILICON
CHIP magazine
Hints o Tips o Upgrades o Fixes
Covers DOS, Windows 3.1, 95, 98, NT
o
RT
Do you feel a little “left behind” by the latest advances and developments
in computer hardware and software? Don’t miss the bus: get the ’bus!
THIS IS IT: The computer reference you’ve been asking for!
SILICON CHIP's Computer Omnibus is a valuable compendium of the most-requested
computer hardware and software features from recent issues of SILICON CHIP magazine
- all in one handy volume. Here's just a sample of the contents:
Troubleshooting your PC: what to do when things go wrong
NO
Choosing, installing and taming computer networks
AVA W
Upgrading and overclocking CPUs
DIRE ILABLE
C
Hard disk drive upgrades, tune-ups and tips
SILIC T FROM
Windows 3.1, 95, 98 and NT tips and tricks
ON
just $ CHIP
The Y2K Bug - and how to swat it
125O*
INC
All about Linux
GST
& P&
P
And much more!!!
ORDER NOW: Use the handy order form in this issue or call
(02) 9979 5644, 9-5 Mon-Fri with your credit card details.
* Price includes GST
09
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
The fault that fixed itself!
In this game, frustration comes with the job.
Apart from the purely technical aspects such
as tracking down weird faults, there are the
incidental frustrations – the search for a rare
spare part or a vital circuit, to say nothing of
awkward customers.
All of these problems are par for
the course. One tackles them as
they come, normally to a successful
conclusion. But that doesn’t always
happen.
Mrs Shirley brought in her 1990
Panasonic NV-F70A VCR which had
been involved in a lightning strike,
along with her TV set, which was
dead. This VCR had the unusual
symptom of not having any sound in
the E-E (tuner) mode. It could play
and record sound via its AV inputs
but there was nothing coming from the
tuner – neither was there any stereo
LED display.
Being a stereo machine, the sound
IF is taken from IC701 (M51366SP) on
the TV demodulator pack and fed into
the audio decoder where it is split into
5.5MHz and 5.74MHz signals before
going to separate sound IF amplifiers
and FM detectors. The outputs of
these are then fed into IC7301 (TDA
3803A), which is the Zweiton stereo
decoder.
Knowing how something works is
one thing; fixing it, another. Unfortunately, I have no equipment that can
accurately indicate whether the sound
IF is working correctly although I do
have an RF probe that just gives a lot
of noise and there is the CRO, which
shows the same.
The decoder module is almost
totally inaccessible when soldered
into the main CBA (Circuit Board
Assembly VEP1353B). All I could do
Fig.1: part of the sound IF circuitry in the Panasonic NV-F70A VCR. All the
symptoms suggested that IC701 was the culprit but in the end, there was no
way to be sure.
42 Silicon Chip
was measure the inputs and outputs
of the module but that indicated only
that the +12V was present and that
the mute Audio Off was in the right
mode. And before anyone asks “what
about the simulcast mode switch”,
yes, I checked that first and it was OK.
At this stage, I felt that the decoder
IC (IC7301) could be faulty and decided to change it. Doing this meant
removing the entire module before
unsoldering and replacing it with a
new one. This all took time and patience and as is my wont, I scrubbed
the module with methylated spirits to
remove any unwanted flux and check
for faulty joints. Everything looked
fine and eventually I was able to solder it back into the main CBA. I also
checked for faulty joints on the de
modulator module, especially around
the metal screening cans where they
are soldered onto the board.
I switched it on and was disappointed to find it still didn’t work. There
were two possible courses of action
now. One was to check the +12V rail
and any other rails for ripple that
might be affecting associated circuits;
the other was to check the sound IF.
I had already checked the +12V and
+11V rails associated with the voltage
stabiliser circuit, involving Q7305, on
the decoder module and they were
spot on.
I turned my attention to the power
supply. Many technicians use an
oscilloscope to measure the extent
of ripple on each of the rails while
simultaneously reading the DC level. However, I’ve had many cases of
misleading results and it requires
too much mental agility to calculate
the percentage and type of ripple to
be expected on each rail – as well as
recalling which rail is on load or on
standby.
My preferred approach is to examine the entire switchmode power supply and measure the ESR (Effective
Series Resistance) of all the electros
as, by now, most are probably in need
of attention. In this case, the usual
culprits, C1109, C1118 and C1121,
measured faulty but the rest were
reasonable. This approach is quite
quick and I hoped that that would be
the end of the matter.
I fitted the power supply back into
the machine and powered it up but
it still wouldn’t work. To make sure,
I checked all the voltage rails with a
digital multimeter and then the CRO.
This was a wasted effort; they were
all correct. I had already checked the
main CBA for cracks and faulty joints,
especially all the modules, so I was
now left with just the sound IF.
I had already checked the 9V stabiliser Q712, so I reasoned it was
probably IC701 (M51366SP), a jungle
IC on the demodulator module that
was the main suspect. I discounted
the two IF amplifiers and FM detectors – IC7302 and IC7303 (AN5213)
– on the decoder, as I thought the
chance of both failing simultaneously
was unlikely. So I put aside the VCR
while I ordered a replacement IC701
and went on with other jobs. In the
meantime, I contemplated making an
FM IF detector probe to deal with such
problems but in the end decided that
it really wasn’t worthwhile.
The other thing that plagued my
mind was the line marked SYNC L
between the decoder and TV demod
ulator modules. This is a 4.3V line
from pin 9 of IC7651 (AN5421) to the
two SIF Limiter Amps via transistors
QR7301 and QR7302. IC7351 checks
whether the video sync pulses are
OK before deciding whether or not
to cut off the sound IF, presumably
to reduce unwanted noise in other
modes; eg, AV input or playback, as
well as multipath stereo distortion.
The replacement IC701 finally arrived and I psyched myself up to fit it
and try out some of my theories. However, before doing this, I set everything
up to make sure it was functioning as
before. And it was but then, just as I
was about to switch it off to replace
the new IC, it suddenly decided to
work! The stereo light came on and
both audio channels were in stereo
on all TV stations.
I couldn’t believe it. I checked all
the tape functions, switched it on and
off repeatedly, hit it, tapped it and
kicked it. You name it; I did it and it
still worked.
I know lightning does some strange
things, as it also took out the lady’s
Sony TV set, but it is hard to believe
that a lightning strike could cause
this condition.
More to the point, it is impossible
to describe my frustra
tion at this
turn of events. It is bad enough to
have to battle through a complex
and time-consuming problem like
this without knowing what fixed it.
Furthermore, what sort of warranty
can one give for an unknown cure?
I put the machine on soak test for
a few weeks and it never missed a
beat. After that, all I could do then
was return it to the customer and it
is still working after several months.
Only time will tell whether the
“fix” is temporary or whether it will
return to haunt me. Such is life; watch
this space!
Sony TV set
As already indicated, that was
only half of Mrs Shirley’s problem;
her Sony KV-2964AS TV set (GP-1A
Sets Covered This Month
•
•
•
Panasonic NV-F70A VCR
Sony KV-2964AS TV set
Sony KV-C2911D TV set
chassis SCC-D23H-A) was completely
dead from the same storm. The effect
of lightning strikes can vary from just
blowing the main fuse to hitting every
component, so one never knows what
to expect.
In this case, the main 4A fuse F601
had blown violently, smashing the
glass, which was a bad omen. I began
by checking for DC shorts with the
ohmmeter around bridge rectifier
D601 on the F board. This wasn’t
easy as the board is tucked behind the
AV jack module K and is next to the
motherboard (“A”) and its horizontal
output transformer.
However, I could find nothing of
significance. The dual posistor THP
601 to the degaussing coils sometimes
gives trouble on this series, probably
more due to faulty joints than anything else but unlike other makes and
models, if these degaussing coils are
unplugged the circuit is not disabled
and this can cause R601 to get extremely hot and smelly.
This dual posistor can often cause
intermittent failure of the fuse too.
The output of the bridge rectifier
plugs into the motherboard via F4/A6,
supplying 340V to the switchmode
power supply, but I couldn’t detect
April 2000 43
any low resistance across this with
my multimeter. Eventually, I decided
to substitute a 200W globe in place of
F601 before switching the power on.
As the average power consumption
for this set is 170W, I knew this might
be inconclusive, especially with the
degaussing coils consuming even
more at switch on.
With some trepidation I watched
the globe as the set powered up. Initially, the globe glowed brightly but
after 15 seconds or so it began to dim
and with a few pulsations it remained
at approximately quarter brightness.
There were signs of life within the
set – not enough to produce sound or
picture but I could hear the horizontal
15,625kHz whistle and the EHT static
charge rush to the final anode of the
tube. This was promising – I now
knew that the bridge rectifier and
main electrolytic capacitor were OK
and that the degaussing circuit and
44 Silicon Chip
the switch
mode primary were not
drawing excessive current.
I now felt that it was fairly safe to
replace the 4A fuse but I was wrong.
The set did its best to start and then
there was a very loud bang and a
bright light as the fuse exploded. So
it was back to square but I did wonder
if the power surge had caused any
extra damage.
I repeated my original series of
checks and was gratified (and somewhat surprised) to find that everything
was still OK. This done, I disconnected the motherboard via plug F-4, replaced the fuse and switched on again.
Nothing adverse happened; the fuse
held and there was 340V across pins
1 & 4 of F-4. This meant this circuit
had to be OK but I now had to use the
globe to discharge the main electrolytic, C607, before reconnecting it to
the main chassis.
During the last fuse “explosion”,
I thought I detected a puff of smoke
coming from behind the switchmode
chopper transis
tor Q601 and near
transformer T602. This made me
wonder whether some component,
including the IC, had spat the dummy
while under full load. The only way to
confirm this is to completely remove
the “A” board for a close examination
and this would also give me a chance
to re-solder any suspect joints.
Removing the “A” board completely is a fair undertaking, with lots of
plugs to remove and plastic subframes
to unclip and unscrew.
Once the board was out, I resoldered it to within an inch of its life.
It may have been dead but it was now
well soldered – a bit like a healthy
corpse. Anyway, I examined the
power supply and checked its DC
resistance everywhere but everything
measured fine. However, capacitor
C420 (2.2µF 400V) looked a little
sorry for itself, with its aluminium
end bulging slightly, so I thought that
it would be a good idea to change it
while it was still a cheap and easy
operation.
This time, instead of the globe/
fuse arrangement, I tried a different
tack and used the Variac instead. I
gingerly wound it up, expecting it
to strike in at about 110V, which it
did. As I continued to wind it up and
monitor the 135V rail at TP91/R340,
more and more signs of life appeared
until eventually a raster came up on
the screen. Finally, I reached 240V AC
and still had 135V on R340.
Encouraged by this, I tried selecting
a TV station using the remote control but nothing further happened.
However, I was happy that the power
supply was now OK.
It was now time to track down the
secondary faults and I hoped there
weren’t too many. I started by checking the other voltage rails from the
switchmode supply, namely the 22V
rail and the 14V rail to the microprocessor. Both were correct, so it was on
to the horizontal output transformer
(T602) for the 17V and 28V rails (it
was obvious that the 200V, 1000V
and EHT supplies were OK or there
wouldn’t be a raster).
Finally, there were various tertiary
rails: 83.6V on the emitter of Q602,
12V on TP96 at the output of IC602
(17V on the input) and 9V on TP94 at
the output of IC603 (derived from the
12V rail). Everything was fine until I
reached IC001, which converts 14V
into 5V for the microprocessor but
there was no output.
I checked for shorts but found nothing, so I concluded it was the IC itself.
This is an unusual 5-pin 5V IC regulator (LM78LR05D) which also provides
the reset 5V for the microprocessor. It
is not the sort of component I keep in
stock but I was able to “borrow” one
from a colleague, mainly to determine
what else might be wrong with the set.
But that was it! The microprocssor
was in good working order and the
picture, sound and on-screen display
were now all OK. And the 68cm picture was just great.
Reflecting on the whole repair
once again, it is extraordinary how
lightning destroys some components
and not others. C410 is in parallel
and rated the same as C607 – why
one and not the other? Similarly, the
5V regulator is a small component in
the midst of hundreds of others. Why
did the lightning select this one on
which to vent its wrath? Mortals such
as you and I can only speculate but
my money is on the theory of chaos
and random selection!
Christmas rush
The prospect of no TV (despite the
dearth of quality programs) is next
to the end of life as they know it for
many customers. Even large organisations can run out of resources around
Christmas time (which is when this
was written) and are only too happy
to pass disgruntled, impatient, clients
on to those of us not so well fed.
So it was that a local service organisation passed on to me a few house
calls involving monstrously heavy
TV sets, just to keep the demanding
public off their back. And as much as
I hate doing service calls on such big
sets, my bank balance demands I go
forth and earn my keep.
Mrs Staniforth (not her real name)
was a frail old lady to look at but not to
listen to. Her home is right near the sea
and I was welcomed enthusiastically.
Her set was a 1989 Sony KV-C2911D
with an AE-1C chassis. The fault was
that it took “only” an hour for the
picture to come on. Apparently one
of the service agent’s technicians had
recom
mended me highly and suggested it was probably only a faulty
solder joint in the tube filament circuit
and that someone as experienced as
myself would fix it easily.
I didn’t really need all this
empty praise at that moment.
And it was empty because anyone could see, without even
taking the back off, that the
fault was not a filament
problem – the tube
was fully alight. But
there was no picture,
no display, no nothing.
(Whoops! – sorry about
the double negative.
There was nothing).
The set was situated in
a dark corner surrounded
by expen
sive Ming vase
lookalikes. Removing the
back without smashing
the vases was a feat in
itself, especially as I kept
tripping over the tangle
of power leads that
were overloading the
mains socket. Finally,
I removed the back and
shorted one cathode to
chassis to make sure
there was a full raster –
and there was.
I fumbled around
trying to measure this
and that and wait
ing
for the picture to appear
but nothing happened.
As I was doing all this
I was constantly being
asked, “have you fixed
it yet? Do you know what the problem
is? The other technician said it was
only the filament circuit”. I fielded
these questions as best I could but the
confidence in my voice was beginning
to falter – not that the customer would
know what a filament was, even if it
hit her in the face!
At this stage, I thought I would
have a go at resoldering several of
the low-voltage regulators that are
sprinkled through the main chassis
and modules. However, this turned
out to be a mistake as it was so dark I
couldn’t really see what I was doing.
On top of that, although I prepared
by bringing a service manual for an
AE-1 chassis, this set used a later
AE-1C variant which is significantly
different in layout.
Finally, after an hour, I had to admit
defeat and announced that it would
have to go to the workshop. Mrs Staniforth played the same record once
again but I had reached the take it or
leave it stage by then.
Surprisingly, she allowed me to
take it, provided I loaned her a set (I
had a 34cm portable). And that led
to the next problem. The Sony set
weighs 52kg and as I said earlier, the
lady was quite frail. It was quite out of
the question to expect her to do more
than hold a door open.
The problem was to lift this beast
and get it through the door. Although I
could lift it (just), the set’s dimensions
are such that both it and I together had
problems getting through the door and
I was beginning to despair. However,
a little lateral thinking solved that
problem. There was a small piece of
carpet handy, so I lifted – or rather
half-dropped – the set onto it so that
I could drag it outside.
Unfortunately, this dislodged the
front control panel lid, right in full
view of the client. Rather sheepishly, I
assured her that it was nothing serious
and that all would be fixed but I was
praying that the hinges on the front
panel lid hadn’t broken. Finally, I got
April 2000 45
result. Eventually, however, I was surprised to find
that it was board C, which
carries the CRT socket,
that actually responded
to heating and freezing.
This was mostly around the
area bounded by plug C-72, Q702
and D713. It was difficult to be more
precise than that but the fault was
probably around D701, a 9.1V zener
diode. I connected an oscilloscope
and a DVM on pin 1 (Auto Cutoff)
of connector C-72 and noticed that
there was no waveform and no voltage
when there was no picture. When the
picture came on there was a 100V p-p
pulse on a 6.5V DC level.
Suddenly, the wheels and cogs
began to turn – I was sure I had
seen this circuit before. The penny
dropped when I followed connector
C-72 back to the decoder B board and
IC301, which is a Philips TDA4580
video processor. This features an auto
cutoff circuit and is used in Philips
2B-S chassis and others to control
the picture drive. It turns the drive
on only when the beam current lies
within a certain range. This is monitored by transistors Q704, Q707 and
Q710 on the CRT board, in each gun
output circuit.
Prime suspect
the set into the truck, gasped that I
would be back with the loan set and
drove off.
When I returned with the promised
34cm set, the customer was “under
whelmed” to say the least. I was
greeted with all sorts of unhappy
comments about its size; that it was
really not much bigger than a postage
stamp and hardly worth it, though
why she didn’t say so earlier, I have
no idea. As a further complication, I
had to retune the set because some
channels were better on the UHF
translator station than the VHF main
transmitter. I also had to retune an
ancient JVC HR7650EA VCR on which
the display was no longer functioning
(due, no doubt, to a faulty -28V supply
internally).
When I recovered back at the
workshop, I opened the set as soon
as possible. I didn’t think I could take
any more whinging but I was wrong.
46 Silicon Chip
Mr Staniforth was now back home
and he phoned to give his informed
gratuitous advice as to exactly what
was wrong with the set. I had to restrain myself from asking him why he
hadn’t fixed it himself if he knew so
much about it.
My first approach was a blanket
resoldering job but this didn’t fix the
problem. I then figured out a plan because it took an hour or so to come
on, it was most likely a heat problem.
Therefore, if I waited, I could freeze
parts of the circuit and it would rapidly kill the picture; or so I surmised.
When the picture finally came on,
I could see it was washed out with
poor greyscale, which is synonymous
with a sick tube. The freezing idea
almost didn’t work because I initially sprayed everywhere I thought the
problem might be – the power supply,
video and chrominance decoder, the
Teletext circuitry and so on – without
So apart from anything else, the
CRT board was still a prime suspect. It
had been affected by the salt air from
the nearby sea, although the freezer
had cleaned or diluted it to the extent
that it was now taking only minutes
for the picture to appear. I decided
on a three-pronged course of action.
First, I removed, re-soldered and
cleaned the CRT board, scrubbing it
with methylated spirits and CRC2-26
before blowing the excess off with the
air compressor.
This done, I fitted a 150kΩ resistor from the 12V rail to pin 1 (Auto
Cutoff) of C-72. This modification is
necessary if the tube has low emission
and the auto-cutoff circuit operates
(and disables the drive) because the
beam current doesn’t fall within the
required range. Basically, it fools
the auto-cutoff circuit by increasing
the apparent beam current, thereby
restoring the drive to the tube.
Finally, I boosted the CRT slightly
with the rejuvenator (I had already
checked the CRT filaments at 6.3V).
The final effect was magic – the pic-
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email: truscott<at>acepia.net.au
www.electronicworld.aus.as
P.C.B. Makers !
•
•
•
Fig.2: this diagram shows part of the neckboard circuitry (board C) in the
Sony KV-C2911D TV set. The CRT socket is at top, while connector C-72 is
at bottom left.
ture came on in about 10 seconds
from cold and the picture quality was
excellent. I refitted the front control
panel lid I had knocked off during the
move – thankfully, it had not been
damaged.
The remote control, an RM-673 type
3, was dead and rattling. After opening it, I removed the leaking batteries
and a broken loose crystal (Z1) and
washed off all the liquid corrosion
under the rubber switch pads. It was
then that I noticed that the board was
drilled and punched to take an extra
LED, to indicate that it was transmitting. I fitted an appropriate red LED
with a series 47Ω resistor to pin 6 of
IC1 and drilled a small hole through
the case where it was marked. Finally, the remote was reassembled and
tested – it worked like a charm.
I made sure that there was someone
young and fit to accompany me when
I returned the set, to help me carry it
inside and lift it onto its stand. Mrs
Staniforth, although still very suspicious, kept her composure during
this procedure. She really couldn’t
believe that her beautiful set which
had gone out in pieces with a supposed incompetent (me) two days
earlier was now working better than
ever. And the remote control now
even had the bonus of a little light in
it – or perhaps that is what she was
SC
probably expecting all along!
•
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KALEX
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CARDS ACCEPTED
April 2000 47
Build a
for styrofoam, foam rubber &
Are you into modelling or upholstery? Then you
probably have often wanted a hot-wire cutter for
foam plastics – but didn’t know how to build one.
Wonder no more as we show you how to build a
very cheap hot-wire cutter from odds and ends.
By LEO SIMPSON
M
ANY PEOPLE have a need
to cut expanded polystyrene
foam (you probably know
it as “styrofoam” or “coolite”), foam
rubber (which isn’t rubber at all!) and
many other soft plastic materials.
Generally they resort to using a
Stanley knife, handsaw, bandsaw, jigsaw or even an electric carving knife
. . . and the result is generally a lot of
mess for not much cut!
The ideal way to fashion this material is with a hot-wire cutter. Actually,
that’s a bit of a misnomer. It should be
called a hot-wire melter because that’s
what it does – but invariably they’re
called hot-wire cutters so we’ll stick
to that name.
The cutter will go through most
types of soft plastic just like a hot
knife through butter (same principle really) and the result is a very
smooth cut with no debris to sweep
up afterwards. You also can do the
most intricate cuts which would be
impossible using any other method.
And the cuts can be angled.
In addition, you can also cut very
48 Silicon Chip
thick material. Our prototype cutter
would easily cut foam over 400mm
thick and it’s not hard to make a much
larger one if you wished.
A hot-wire cutter is made from a
length of resistance wire which is
held taut and heated to just below
red-heat. At this temperature you can
slowly feed the material through and
you will get a very smooth cut.
As you can see from the photos,
we made our hot-wire cutter from
a variety of materials we had lying
around the place. The baseboard was
made from Laminex-coated chipboard
left over from a kitchen installation.
The vertical element was made
from a scrap of 16mm Formply while
the horizontal 5/16-inch threaded rod
came from a cable reel. The hinge,
screw eyes, spring and other bits were
also hauled out of the junk box.
The important point to note about
this project is that it does not have to
look good; it just has to work.
For example, we could just as easily
have used some raw chipboard for the
base and a piece of hardwood decking
for the vertical element. Or we could
have used a piece of 3mm steel strap
bent at rightangles and hinged from
the base to carry the vertical cutter
wire.
No doubt you have other bits and
pieces which could be pressed into
service just as effectively. But where
do you get the resistance wire?
Fortunately, that is easily answered
as it comes in small packs of 28 B &
S Nichrome or Cuprothal from Dick
Smith Electronics and Jaycar. Three
types are available and just which
type you use will depend on what
power supplies you have available
and how big you want the cutter to be.
We made our cutter quite big
because we envisaged using it to
cut quite thick styrofoam for use in
scenery for a model railway layout. If
you want yours to cut thinner sheet
materials then you may opt for something smaller.
The active length of wire used in
our cutter is 430mm and is probably
just a bit longer than we need. But
let’s say you want a similar length,
other plastics
400mm. What we found is that you
need about 40-45 watts to heat the
wire adequately. More than 50 watts
will make the wire glow brightly and
that is not want you want as it could
set fire to some materials.
Anyway, if you have a power supply capable of around 50 watts you
are in business.
Your power supply could be a
conventional adjustable DC power
supply such as the 40V 3A supply we
described in the January & February
1994 issues of SILICON CHIP.
Alternatively, if you have a computer power supply capable of 200W or
more, it can probably be pressed into
service. Or you could even use a 12V
car battery. Either way, if the supply
you use is not adjustable, you will
need a means of adjusting it. After
all, the amount of heat for effective
cutting will depend on the type and
thickness of material so you do need
to be able to adjust the available voltage over a small range.
Now you need to consider how
much voltage and current your power supply can provide because that
determines what type of resistance
wire you need to use.
OK. Let’s consider the easy approach first and that involves using an
adjustable power supply such as the
40V 3A unit referred to above. Since
this unit can only supply a maximum
of 3A, that meant that the resistance
would have to be reasonably high.
OK, so it’s not pretty – but it works! We scrounged the baseboard from an old kitchen cupboard, the spring from an old
bed, the screw eyes and hinge from the junk box . . . we’re sure you get the picture. Here we’re about to cut through this
thick block of polystyrene foam in just a second or so. The result: a beautifully clean, straight cut with no mess!
April 2000 49
Like a hot knife through butter . . . that’s exactly how our hot wire cutter works. On the left we’re cutting a complex shape
from a sheet of polystyrene foam, with a hunk of foam rubber waiting its turn. To prove the point, on the right is that same
hunk of foam rubber being cut. Notice how straight, clean and mess-free the cut is? You can’t do that with a Stanley knife!
For this example, we decided to
use some 28 B&S Nichrome from Dick
Smith Electronics. This comes in a
small pack with a few metres of wire
(Cat. W-3205). This has a nominal
resistance of 13.4Ω ±5% per metre
and so a 400mm length will be 5.4Ω.
We jury-rigged up a 400mm length
of this wire under tension and found
that we needed about 40W to get it to
satisfactorily cut a range of styrofoam
in various thicknesses.
That translated to a voltage setting
of around 15V at 2.7A, comfortably
within the 3A limit of the power
supply under discussion.
If you don’t have an adjustable
power supply of sufficient current
capacity, you might consider using a
computer power supply or perhaps
even a 12V car battery. Either way, you
will need some means of adjusting the
voltage fed to the cutting wire. We
have a simple solution for that problem too and we’ll discuss that later.
Diving into our junk box again,
we came up with a 200W PC power
supply that could deliver +12V at up
to 8A and +5V at up to 20A. Such
power supplies can be picked up
very cheaply these days or salvaged
from computers tossed out for council
Fig.1: modified from the Glow-Plug Driver last month, this “power supply”
enables you to heat the wire to just below red heat.
50 Silicon Chip
cleanups.
If we elect to use the 12V option
(from a computer supply or car battery), it is appropriate to use the 28
B&S Cuprothal resistance wire pack
from Dick Smith Electronics (Cat.
W-3200). This has a nominal resistance of 6.09Ω per metre and so a
400mm length will be just under 2.5Ω
(2.44Ω to be more precise).
With 10V DC applied, the current
will be just over 4A and again we have
the right result of between 40W and
45W to achieve a clean cut with this
length of wire. How do we get 10V
from a 12V supply? Patience, now;
we’ll come to that in a moment.
But perhaps the computer supply
you have scrounged cannot supply 4A
from the +12V – some of them are a
bit skimpy for this rail. The answer
is to go to the 5V rail which even in a
fairly modest machine will typically
be able to supply 12A or more.
So if we’re going to use the +5V rail,
we need lower resistance wire again
and in this case the 28 B&S wire from
Jaycar could be the answer (Jaycar Cat.
WW-4040). This has a nominal resistance of 3.77Ω per metre. A 400mm
length will have a resistance of 1.5Ω.
In this case we are in trouble because 5V across 1.5Ω will result in a
current of only 3.33A and a power dissipation of 16.7W; not enough cutting
power for a 400mm length. Clearly,
we have to make other arrangements.
One possibility is to double up, or
better still, triple the wire. With three
400mm lengths paralleled up, we get
Fig.2: the modified PC board component layout with the PC
board itself at right for comparison. Both are reproduced
same size.
a total resistance of 0.5Ω. With 5V
applied we’ll get 10A (in theory), or a
power dissipation of 50W, more than
enough for the job.
Shorter cutting wire
Alternatively, you could always
compromise and go for a unit with a
shorter cutting wire. We know that we
need around 40W for adequate cutting
from a 400mm length of resistance
wire. That translates to 1W per centimetre. So if we decide on a 250mm
cutting wire, we’ll only need 25 watts.
Going back to that 28 B&S wire from
Jaycar, a 250mm length will have a
resistance of just under 1Ω (0.94Ω
to be more precise) and when 5V is
applied across it, the current will be
around 10A and the power dissipation
around 25W, right on the money for a
25cm cutting length.
We could also repeat the exercise
for the higher resistance wire. Using a
25cm length of the 28 B&S Nichrome
wire from Dick Smith Electronics, we
get a resistance of 3.35Ω. With 9.5V
applied, we get just over 2.8A and a
total power dissipation of 27W, which
is OK for this cutting length.
By now you should see how you can
choose the length of the cutting wire
and its resistance to suit the capabilities of your power supply.
Of course, if you want a 1-metre
cutting wire, you will need a cutting power of 100W and your power
supply will need to be beefed up
accordingly.
(Hint: if you used the 6.1Ω/m
Cuprothal wire, you would need a
supply capable of about 25V and just
over 4A).
computer supply. It just so happens
that we published a suitable circuit in
last month’s issue under the guise of
a “GlowPlug Driver” (see SILICON
CHIP, March 2000, page 72). With
a few minor changes, that circuit is
ideal for our purpose. Fig.1 shows the
modified circuit while Fig.2 shows the
component overlay.
If you compare the circuit of Fig.1
with the GlowPlug Driver circuit on
page 73 of the March 2000 issue, you
will notice that we have made three
modifications. First (and second), we
Adjusting the voltage
We mentioned the need to adjust
the voltage to the cutting wire if you
are using the +12V or +5V rail from a
This photo gives a good idea of the construction and in particular the tensioning
method. The resistance wire “cutter” must be kept under tension to achieve a good
straight cut. A healthy “twang” when plucked means the tension is about right!
April 2000 51
swapped the positions of resistors R1
& R2 to change the output duty cycle.
Whereas before the desired duty cycle
was around 17% to obtain around
2V from a 12V supply, the modified
circuit will give a range of duty cycles
from around 75% to 85%.
This is about right, if you want to
use the examples quoted above and
want around 9.5V to 10V from a 12V
PC power supply or car battery.
Our third modification was to remove the 0.1Ω 5W wirewound resistor
R5 and replace it with a link. This
resistor will otherwise cause too much
voltage drop when you are using it
from a 12V or 5V supply. Note that
if you are using it on the 5V supply
you probably will need to fit a small
flag heatsink to the BUK453 Mosfet.
You may also want to replace the
10kΩ trimpot with a conventional
potentiometer if you want to easily
adjust the wire temperature from time
to time. It would also be a good idea to
fit an in-line 5A fuse if you are going
to power your hot-wire cutter from a
12V car battery.
Foot-operated switch
Another refinement to our circuit
could be the inclusion of a suitable
foot-operated switch to apply power
to the hot wire at the appropriate time,
leaving both hands free to guide the
work. We’ll leave that part to you –
just make sure any switch you use has
high enough ratings (say 10A at 30V
WATCH THE FUMES!
When heating or melting any
type of plastic (eg, with a hotwire cutter!), beware of the fumes
which are given off. Always use
the cutter in a well-ventilated
area (preferably fan assisted)
and avoid breathing the fumes.
DC) and use heavy-duty connecting
cables (again, at least 10A).
Building the cutter
While you can see the construction
details from the photos, there are few
points that need to be covered so we’ll
briefly describe how our prototype
was made.
First, we made the baseboard from
a piece of Laminex coated chipboard
measuring about 700 x 300 x 18mm
thick. The precise measurements are
not important but ours was quite
large so that it would have a large
“throat” for cutting big slabs of material. Laminex or melamine coated
pyneboard is ideal as it easily cleaned
and suitable for sliding the material
through the cut. It is also fairy heavy
which means that the cutter does not
move about when you are pushing
material against the wire.
We used an ordinary 100mm steel
butt hinge for the vertical support
which was made of 16mm Formply
measuring 450 x 70mm. For the hori-
zontal wire support, we used a 500mm
length of 5/16-inch threaded rod. This
has the advantage that it is easy to
make the wire connections to it.
The wire connection to the baseboard can be via a countersunk screw
with the external wire connection
underneath the board but we took the
simpler approach with our prototype,
as can be seen in the photos.
The 28 B&S wire is held under
quite a bit of tension by the small
spring attached to the screw eyes on
the baseboard and vertical support.
Our spring came from an old wire
bed frame.
The vertical support needs to be
hinged and under spring tension for
two reasons. One, you need a fair
amount of tension so that the cutting
wire is not deflected as you push the
foam onto it. Second, the resistance
wire expands by about 10mm from
cold to hot and the spring tension
needs to take this up.
A look at the photos will show
that the threaded rod is under a fair
amount of tension and can be seen to
be noticeably bent against the load.
Mind you, the wire should not
be too tight otherwise it will tend
to break. Ours made a pronounced
“twang” when it was plucked.
Inevitably though, the wire can be
expected to break from time to time,
so make sure you keep the leftover
resistance wire in a safe place. Incidentally, the hotter you run the wire,
the more likely it is to break.
Finally, by using the threaded rod
and the hinged vertical support, the
hot-wire cutter can be easily dismantled and stored as a flat package.
Where do you get it?
It mightn’t look like the best cut in the world but hey, it was our first-ever attempt
– and it’s a darned sight better than you could get with a knife! One trap for young
players we found was to cut too slowly or leave the work in the one place too long.
If you do this, the polystyrene starts to melt (as you can see happening near the hot
wire). Adding a foot-switch to turn the power on and off could help prevent this.
52 Silicon Chip
We’ve told you where to scrounge
all the bits from in the cutter itself but
so far haven’t said where to get the
power controller. As we mentioned,
this was published last month as a
Glow-Plug Driver and the kit is exclusive to Oatley Electronics.
So if you want to build the controller, simply buy the Glow-Plug Driver
kit from Oatley Electronics (it sells
for $14.95 including a case). They can
be contacted on (02) 9584 3563, fax
(02) 9584 3561, email sales<at>oatleyelectronics.com or visit their website:
www.oatleyelectronics.com.au
Just don’t forget to swap resistors
R1 & R2 and leave replace R5 with a
SC
wire link.
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April 2000 53
This photo shows the Atmel ICE 200 (at right)
plugged into an STK200 development board.
The development board is also available from
Atmel.
Atmel's ICE 200
in-circuit emulator
What’s the best way to develop and debug
microcontroller software? Answer – use an
in-circuit emulator (ICE) that interfaces to a
PC. An ICE offers all sorts of useful debugging
tools and there’s no need to add water!
By PETER SMITH
The Y2K problem highlighted
something that many of us weren’t
previously fully aware of – just how
many pieces of equipment contain
embedded computer chips.
With so much equipment now relying on computer control, if you’re
involved in electronics then you will
almost certainly be involved with
embedded systems in some way.
Most embedded designs are based
on microcontrollers (MCUs). These
devices integrate a microprocessor
core with memory and input/output
(I/O) ports, as well as a variety of other
54 Silicon Chip
commonly used functions. Effectively,
this means that what once would have
occupied an entire PC board now fits
in a single chip, consumes a fraction
of the power and runs perhaps 10-100
times faster!
Due to their ever-increasing memory
size and speed, microcontrollers can
now be programmed effectively using
high-level languages such as C and
BASIC. Of course, serious design calls
for serious debugging tools and in this
review we look at the ICE 200. This is
an “entry-level” in-circuit emulator
(ICE) for Atmel’s range of popular AVR
Enhanced RISC microcontrollers and
should also appeal to novices.
Atmel AVR microcontrollers
In my opinion, Atmel has a real
winner with their AVR series of microcontrollers. Using a modified RISC
(Reduced Instruction Set) architecture, the AVR series is specifically optimised for running complied C code.
Other key features such as in-circuit
programmable flash memory (up to
128KB), EEPROM data memory, high
throughput (all instructions are single-cycle) and low power consumption make this series hard to beat.
As is common with all micro
controllers today, it includes functions like A-D converters, serial ports
(UARTs), real time clocks (RTCs),
pulse width modulation (PWM) outputs, 16-bit timers and brown-out
detectors.
Do I need an ICE?
When a microcontroller program
Fig.1: the major components
of the ICE 200 in-circuit
emulator. Connection to
your PC is via a standard
serial port.
doesn’t work as expected, how do
you find out why? One way is to
debug the program with a software
simulator.
Simulators do just that – they simulate the operation of a microcontroller
in PC-based software. Your compiled
program runs just as it would on a real
microcontroller, the advantage being
that you have control over the execution of each line of code. Instructions
can be executed line-by-line (called
single stepping), or “breakpoints”
can be inserted at desired points to
halt a running program. In addition,
resources such as registers, memory
and I/O ports can be examined and
modified at will.
The major disadvantage of simulators is that they are isolated from the
devices that a typical microcontroller-based system would interface with.
For example, if a design includes a
pulse width modulated (PWM) output
to control servo motors, the best that
you can do is view the PWM registers
– a poor substitute for seeing actual
servo movement.
The answer to this dilemma is
in-circuit emulation. This approach
replaces the microcontroller chip with
hardware that emulates its operation
and at the same time allows the pro-
grammer to “get inside” to see what’s
happening.
The Atmel ICE 200 kit includes both
hardware and software components.
Let’s take a look at the hardware first.
ICE hardware
The kit consists of several major
hardware components (see Fig.1). A
small PC board called a “pod” contains the actual emulation hardware
– all in a single chip mounted on the
Fig.2: the Project window keeps
all related files and settings nicely
organised. Source files can be edited,
compiled and run directly from this
window.
Fig.3: doubleclicking on an
error in the Project
Output window
takes you directly
to the problem line
in your source file.
underside of the board. The pod plugs
into the microcontroller socket on the
system to be debugged via a so-called
“personality” adapter.
The ICE 200 supports 11 different
microcontrollers from the AVR series,
so adapters are required to convert the
varying package types and pinouts to
suit the pod. Note that the kit only includes personality adapters for dualin-line (DIL) microcontroller packages
(8, 20, 28 & 40 pin). If your application
uses surface mount packages, you will
need to obtain suitable SMD-to-DIL
adapters or purchase the Atmel SMD
personality adapter kit.
The pod automatically detects
which micro it should emulate and
configures itself internally, so there
are no jumpers or switches to be set.
A “tiny” exception to this rule is the
ATtiny 12/13 microcontroller, which
has special oscillator pin features.
Two 0Ω resistors on the pod must be
set accordingly – the user guide has
the full details.
The pod connects to the main ICE
200 board via two flexible cables. The
main board measures just 70 x 90mm
but Atmel has squeezed on the program memory, pod control and host
PC communication logic, as well as a
power supply. A standard DC socket
accepts input power, which is regulated and filtered to 5V on the board.
Note that although the ICE 200 starter kit documentation states that 9-12V
DC or 9V AC can be applied, more
up-to-date information on the Atmel
web site recommends applying 9V DC
only. Atmel has included a length of
cable with a DC jack on one end for
connection to a lab supply but a trusty
April 2000 55
9V DC 500mA plugpack would probably be the preferred choice.
Also of note is that as the pod
draws power from the target board
it is connected to, its supply voltage
can be anywhere from 2.7V to 5.5V.
On the other hand, the main board
has a 5V supply, so level converters
on the main board do the necessary
logic level shifts.
Finally, the ICE 200 kit includes a
9-pin serial cable (about two metres
long) to connect the main board to
your PC.
ICE software
A brilliant set of software tools
called AVR Studio controls the whole
show. AVR Studio runs on Windows
95, 98, NT 3.51 and NT 4.0 and is
supplied on CD-ROM, along with a
bunch of useful product guides and
technical data sheets.
Our kit also included a copy of AVR
Studio on diskette but both it and the
CD-ROM version were out of date as
Atmel has just released version 3.00.
We downloaded our copy from At
mel’s website at www.atmel.com
AVR Studio provides all you need
to edit, compile and debug your code.
A macro assembler is included in the
package and an optional C compiler is
also available. Third party compilers
and assemblers can be plugged in too
but if you want to debug at the source
code level, they must be object file
compatible.
Fig.4: the first time an object file is
loaded, AVR Studio detects the ICE
200 and displays this Configuration
window.
The first step towards a working
program is to enter the source file. AVR
Studio includes a project manager that
helps you keep source files associated
with a particular project together (see
Fig.2). A handy assembler source file
editor is included (see Fig.3) and this
can be launched directly from the
Project window.
Source files in a project can be
assembled/compiled with a single
keystroke, with the results displayed
in the Project Output window. If one
or more errors occur during assembly,
finding the problem line of code is a
simple matter of double-clicking on
the error and the line is immediately
highlighted in the Source window
(see Fig.3).
Once you’re ready to debug the
code, the output from the assembler/
compiler (called an object file) can be
loaded manually from the File menu.
Fig.5: a typical debugging session in AVR Studio. The real work begins here!
56 Silicon Chip
Alternatively, the source file(s) can be
assembled/compiled and the object
file loaded in one step by selecting
Build & Run from the Project menu.
The first time an object file is
loaded, AVR Studio automatically
detects and configures the ICE 200
and a configuration window appears
to confirm a few important settings
(see Fig.4). If an in-circuit emulator
can’t be detected, AVR Studio enters
software simulation mode instead. After closing the configuration window,
various debug windows can be opened
from the menu bar in preparation for
the actual emulation session.
The emulation display
Fig.5 shows what a typical emulation session might look like. Naturally,
window positions and sizes can be
set according to personal preference
and the settings are saved between
sessions.
If you’re a newcomer to emulators
the display in Fig.5 might look a little
intimidating, so let’s talk briefly about
the function of each window.
The largest window, titled avr910.
asm, is the source window – it lists the
program being debugged. The small
arrow on the left sidebar indicates the
next line to be executed. Right-clicking on any line allows you to set or
clear a breakpoint at that position, or
a bookmark can be placed for easy
location at a later stage. Note the
small brown squares – these indicate
the positions of active breakpoints.
Breakpoints can be cleared globally
from the main menu bar.
Labels (or symbols) are listed in the
source window just as they appear in
the original program. This information is retrieved from the assembly
or object file. If a file without this
information is loaded (eg, a hex file),
AVR studio lists the program in disassembly mode.
The Memory window displays the
contents of program, data, EEPROM or
I/O memory. A drop-down menu lets
you select one of the four types. Memory contents can be edited directly in
this window by double-clicking on
the desired location and typing a new
value. Multiple Memory windows can
be open at the same time.
The Registers window displays all
32 general-purpose microcontroller
registers and like the memory window, these can be edited by double-clicking on the desired entry.
The Watches window provides a convenient way of displaying all the memory
locations that you would like monitor. Rightclick in this window to enter a new location
in symbolic form. AVR Studio updates the
“Value” column each time program execution stops. If you are debugging a C program,
both simple and complex (eg, structures and
arrays) data types can be displayed.
Key emulation information is displayed
in the Processor window. The Program
Counter field displays the address of the
next instruction to be executed, while the
Cycle Counter field displays the total number of cycles since the last reset. The Stack
Pointer, Flags and X, Y and Z Register fields
are all self-explanatory. As you’ve probably
guessed, the Frequency field displays the
target’s clock speed. All values except time
elapsed and frequency can be changed when
the program isn’t running.
The I/O window is used to examine and
alter the various I/O registers. Multiple I/O
windows can be opened at the same time.
Executing the code
Basically, these windows are our view
“inside” the microcontroller. They display
the current state of every resource within
the chip, as well as giving us the ability to
modify many of them.
Just as importantly, AVR Studio allows
complete control over program execution.
Using buttons on the menu bar or shortcut
keys, you can single-step the program (execute a single line at a time) or run until a
breakpoint is encountered or you click on
the Break button. You also have the option
of executing a subroutine (function call)
until it ends (Step Out) or skip a subroutine
completely (Skip Over).
Other versatile options allow execution
of a defined number of instructions (Multi
Step), or executing each instruction and
pausing for a predefined period before going
on to the next (Auto Step).
Fig.6: on-line help that really helps! All help menus should work like
this.
Documentation
Documentation is often the weak link in
technical products but Atmel have excelled
with their HTML-based on-line help system
(see Fig.6). We found it to be comprehensive,
well organised and easy to navigate.
Wrap up
We mentioned before that AVR Studio
enters simulation mode if an emulator (in
our case, the ICE 200) is not detected. Simulation control and display is deliberately
very similar to emulation, so much of the
previous description still applies. Of course,
simulation is very limited in comparison to
emulation (as described above) but it does
The underside of the pod reveals just one 100-pin IC and this is
responsible for emulating all supported microcontrollers. Note the
connectors on either side – these plug into the personality adapters.
April 2000 57
T
This photo shows a selection of the available DIL
“personality” adapters supplied with the kit.
provide an ideal introduction to the
software and would be an excellent
learning tool.
AVR Studio is available for free
download from the Atmel web site at
www.atmel.com Sample assembler
files are included with the installation (look in the Avrstudio\Appnotes
directory), so you don’t even need to
know AVR coding to give the simulator a go!
Where to next?
Experienced ICE users will have
noticed that we haven’t mentioned
tracers or triggers.
To explain, in-circuit emulators often provide a program tracing feature.
This feature records detailed information about the execution of each
instruction (or even each machine
cycle on some systems) in dedicated
memory called a trace buffer, all in
real time.
The idea here is to allow detailed
analysis of sections of code without
interrupting program execution –
something that can be important in
real-time systems. In addition, trace
buffer contents can be written to a file
for later scrutiny.
Triggers are associated with physical input and output pins, usually
made available on a connector on the
ICE pod. Output triggers are often used
to trigger external test instruments
like oscilloscopes and logic analysers.
Markers are placed in the code to signal when the corresponding output
pin should go high (or low).
Input triggers can be used to halt
program execution. They can also be
used for simply logic analysis, as the
pins are sampled and recorded in the
trace buffer every cycle.
Tracing and triggering is often used
to solve difficult hardware and software design problems in advanced
systems, hence it has not been included in the entry-level ICE 200.
However, these features are available
on the more advanced Atmel ICE Pro
for those who need them. And the
good news it that AVR Studio supports
the ICE Pro and traces and triggers
too, so there’s no need to learn a new
platform if you decide to upgrade to
the big guns later!
Want further info?
The main board shown approximately full size. All components except for the
9-pin D connector are surface-mounted.
58 Silicon Chip
Further information on the Atmel
ICE 200 in-circuit emulator kit, phone
the REC Electronics office in your state
(see advert on inside back cover for
phone numbers). You can also visit
their website at www.rec.com.au SC
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April 2000 59
VINTAGE RADIO
By RODNEY CHAMPNESS, VK3UG
The Hellier Award, Pt 3: Simple Superhets
This month, we take a close look at the three
winning sets in the Hellier Award and describe
the technical details. The sets are all simple
superhets using a converter, a regenerative IF
on 455kHz and one stage of audio feeding a
loudspeaker.
The size of the three winning sets
varied considerably, from a small
brick-sized set to a very large mantle
set. They were built by Gary Newton,
Des Nunan and Harvey Utber and all
three sets worked very well indeed.
Of the three, the mid-sized set built by
Des would probably be the easiest for
anyone wanting to build a near copy.
The little brick
Gary’s brick-sized set is compact
and utilitarian in concept, which
aided construction, operation and service. Because it is small, it took a great
deal of planning to get everything into
the case while ensuring that inputs
and outputs were kept apart.
The set has “hand-span” tuning
with a knob fitted directly onto the
tuning gang shaft. This made tuning
a little more exacting compared to
the other two sets but it wasn’t really
a problem.
By the way, the overall IF (intermediate frequency) skirt selectivity
of all three sets isn’t as good as that
from a conventional superhet with
four tuned IF coils (ie, two IF transformers). This meant that when tuned
This is the view inside the giant’s mantle set, made by Harvey Utber. This set is
large for a 2-valve receiver and its performance matches its size.
60 Silicon Chip
to a weak station, a strong station on
a nearby frequency could be heard
behind the wanted station. That said,
the overall performance of all three
sets was very good, considering their
simplicity.
The circuits of the three radios were
all very similar so only one generic
circuit diagram is included with
this article – see Fig.1. Gary used a
6AN7 converter which was fed from
a loopstick antenna, as well as being
connected to an external antenna/
aerial. The twin tuning gang was a
padderless type which means that the
two sections have different capacit
ances and so no padder capacitor is
required.
A 6AB8 triode pentode was used for
the regenerative IF and audio stages.
The 6AB8 is not commonly used, having a triode with a gain of around 11
and an output pentode similar to half a
6AQ5 (it requires similar voltages but
draws less than half the current). The
cathode is common to both sections
which makes the circuitry a little more
complex to obtain correct biasing.
All sets required a modified IF
transformer and this involved adding
a feedback winding. The reaction
was controlled with a series trimmer
capacitor, with another parallel capacitor across the trimmer to make
adjustment easier in the conventional
Reinartz circuit. It’s interesting to note
that all the simple superhets used this
system although there are a number
of other methods for achieving regeneration that work well too.
As mentioned previously, almost all
the contestants who built the simple
superhet receivers had trouble getting
the regeneration working to their satisfaction. This problem was solved by
jumble-winding the feedback winding
close to the grid winding of the IF
transformer as shown in Fig.2. In
6AN7-A
REGEN.
27pF
7
15410pF
.047F
5k LIN
VOLUME
100pF
9
3
47k
1M
6GW8
.047F
1
47k
2
15-410pF
.047F
3
8
.022F
1M
220k
15k
1W
10F
16VW
7
220
2.2k
1W
180V
.047F
7k
6
470pF
47pF
220
425pF
3-30pF
10k
9
8
1
2
3-30pF
3-30pF
90V
* CAPACITOR MAY BE
IN POWER SUPPLY
H.T.
200 to
250V DC
* 10F
300VW
10F
300VW
Fig.1: a typical simple superhet radio receiver circuit. All three sets described here used this general scheme.
practice, this feedback winding consisted of 100-150 turns of about 37B&S
(0.125mm) enamelled copper wire.
The audio output stage of Gary’s set
is conventional and uses the pentode
section of the 6AB8. Although slightly
lacking in performance compared to
6BM8, 6GW8 and 6GV8 output stages,
this is hardly noticed and the heater
drain is only 0.3A. The plate impedance is quite high, varying between
about 10kΩ and 17.5kΩ, depending
on the supply voltage. It’s not easy
to find speaker transformers with a
primary impedance in this range but
using a 7kΩ:3.5Ω transformer into an
8Ω loudspeaker will give a reflected
impedance for the valve plate circuit
of (nominally) 16kΩ.
The bass response of the transformer may not be wonderful but a small
set like this with a small loudspeaker
doesn’t have a good bass response
anyway.
The set is quite a reasonable performer but Gary realised during discussion after the judging that there
were a few things that could be altered
around the aerial circuitry to improve
its performance. These modifications
will, I believe, make Gary’s set a very
good performer.
The 1940s wooden mantle set
Des stuck to a more conventional
layout from the 1940s and achieved a
set that is impressive in both looks and
performance. To dismantle the set, it
is necessary only to remove the knobs
and two screws under the bottom of
the cabinet and slide the chassis out –
simple but effective. The converter is
again the ubiquitous 6AN7(A) which
This “under-the-hood” view of the giant’s mantle set reveals a well-laid out
chassis, with all parts readily accessible.
April 2000 61
Fig.2: this diagram shows how the IF
transformer in each set was modified
by adding a feedback winding close to
the grid winding.
The triode is used as a regenerative
IF stage with the pentode once again
the audio output. The IF stage is
similar to Gary’s, the main difference
involving the use of an old HMV screw
adjustment beehive type trimmer as
the regeneration control. This is extremely smooth – in fact, I don’t think
I’ve seen such a smooth regeneration
control before but this is probably
unimportant as it is a “set and forget”
control. However, due to variations in
mains voltages, it did initially break
into oscillation at times and had to be
backed off a little to ensure reliable
operation under all circumstances.
Unlike Gary, Des used a conventional cord-drive dial system which
works well. The layout of the chassis
is quite conventional and the wiring
is very open and easy to work on (see
photo). By the way, this is the only
set to use a 6X4 as the rectifier – the
other two sets used solid-state diodes
in the power supplies.
The “Little Brick” made by
Gary Newton was compact
and utilitarian in concept.
The giant’s mantle set
This 1940s-style mantle set was made by Des Nunan and has a conventional
layout. It uses a 6X4 rectifier valve, a 6AN7(A) for the converter and a 6GW8
triode/pentode output stage. A feature of the set is its very smooth regeneration
control.
is fed from a conventional aerial coil
attached to an outside aerial. The
second valve is a 6GW8 which is a
62 Silicon Chip
triode-pentode originally intended
for audio use in hifi amplifiers and
TV audio stages.
Harvey had a 12-inch speaker going
begging so he decided to build his
2-valve receiver around it. This set is
large but it its performance matches
its physical size and it can easily
receive most Melbourne stations in
Mooroopna some 150km away during
daylight hours. Indeed, the volume
and quality of the sound from the
12-inch speaker was quite impressive.
Who said that regenerative detectors
have too much distortion for normal
use?
Harvey’s receiver uses a 6AN7(A)
and 6GW8 in a similar circuit to the
other two sets. In this set, however,
there is extensive decoupling of the
high tension (HT) supply. In addition,
Harvey played around with the operating conditions of the converter to
get the best conversion efficiency. The
performance of the radio frequency
(RF) section of a set depends on the
operating conditions of the valves
and the quality and matching of the
wound RF components (coils and
transformers). In my opinion, Harvey
got everything just right and the performance certainly is impressive for
such a simple set.
By the way, most of the simple superhets used a resistor in series with
a potentiometer in the cathode circuit
of the converter to control the volume
– see Fig.1. This was used as it would
be easy to overload the detector near
strong stations due to the fact that
no automatic gain control (AGC) was
generated in these sets.
This meant that the volume control
had to be “ridden” when tuning across
the band from one station to another.
However, this isn’t particularly difficult and in any case, most people
usually listen to one favourite station
most of the time.
The inductance-tuned set
As mentioned last month, one of the
All parts are readily accessible in the 1940s mantle set and the layout is easy to
work on. The conventional cord-drive dial system works well.
other simple superhets (the one in the
ice-cream container) used inductance
tuning and this worked quite well.
The inductance tuning system was
originally designed for a Philips set
from the early 60s. Apart from this, the
circuitry was similar to the other three
sets describe here and used 6AN7(A)
and 6GW8 valves.
Hopefully, this series will have
whetted your appetite to build your
own valve receiver, just for the fun
of it. We’ll move onto another topic
SC
next month.
ELECTRONIC VALVE & TUBE COMPANY
The Electronic Valve & Tube Company (EVATCO) has relocated to new premises at 76 Bluff Rd, St Leonards on Victoria’s
Bellarine Peninsula. EVATCO has been specialising in the supply of
vacuum tubes to the audio and music industries for hifi and guitar
amplifiers since 1995. They also stock a large range of valves for
vintage radio, amateur radio, industrial and small transmitting use.
Major current brands such as SOVTEK and SVETLANA are always
stocked and they are able to supply some rare NOS (New - Old stock) brands
such as Mullard, Telefunken, RCA and Philips.
To assist designers, experimenters and hobbyists, they stock a wide range of books
covering valve specifications and design or modification of valve audio amplifiers. Hard
to get high-voltage electrolytic capacitors and valve sockets are also available.
Proprietor Arthur Courtney has over 40 years of experience in the valve industry. For
advice or assistance, call Arthur on (03) 5257 2297 or 0417 143 167.
PO Box 487 Drysdale, Victoria 3222. Tel: (03) 5257 2297; Fax: (03) 5257 1773
Mob: 0417 143 167; email: evatco<at>mira.net
New premises at 76 Bluff Road, St Leonards, Vic 3223
April 2000 63
By Robert Priestley
Part 2: Building It!
Last month we introduced our new OzTrip Car
Computer – arguably the best car computer ever
published. In this final part, we’ll look at some
of the other features and then move onto
construction, installation and calibration.
As we mentioned last month, the
OzTrip Computer can most easily be
used in cars with standard electronic fuel injection (EFI) systems. The
computer uses data already available
within the EFI system.
With modifications (involving the
use of an optional PC board) it can also
be used in vehicles with carburettors
or non-standard EFI. This entails the
fitting of a fuel flow sensor – not a
difficult job at all.
EFI operation
The OzTrip Computer measures the
fuel flow of an EFI engine by measur-
The OzTrip Car Computer is easy to build, easy to fit and easy to calibrate. The
best part: you save money!
64 Silicon Chip
ing the time one injector is open.
The main components of the fuel
delivery system in an EFI engine
include the fuel pump, pressure regulator, fuel rail and fuel injector valve.
The fuel injectors are under the
control of the engine management
computer (EMC). This adjusts the time
the injector is open and therefore the
amount of fuel sprayed into the cylinders, according to the speed of the
engine and the load on it, attempting
to achieve maximum efficiency at all
times.
The pressure in the fuel rail, which
feeds the injectors, is kept constant
by the pressure regulator. Because
of this, the fuel flow through each
injector can be assumed to be the
same (on average) so we only need
to measure one injector to determine
the total fuel flow.
The fuel flow is directly proportional to the injector open time and by
measuring the injector open time we
can calculate the fuel consumption.
Before we can determine fuel flow,
the computer needs to be calibrated
so it can relate fuel consumption to
injector open time.
This is achieved by measuring the
total injector open time over a full tank
of fuel, then entering the total fuel
used during the calibration process
into the computer. The computer has a
special calibration mode which makes
This photo of an early prototype shows the back-to-back method of construction.
The microcontroller used in this shot was actually a reprogrammable type to
assist in development, as distinct from the one-time programmable chip finally
used. Some resistor values may also be slightly different – use the component
overlays for construction!
this easy to do. Calibration can be performed over several days if required.
The greater the volume of fuel used
during calibration the more accurate
the calibration process is.
The 68HC705C8A microcontroller
has a timer input pin which is used
to measure the pulse width of the
injector signal. The computer’s fuel
input can be directly connected to the
injector. The injector has two connections: one side of the injector coil is
connected to +12V DC and the other
to the engine management computer
(EMC). The OzTrip Computer must
be connected to the EMC side of the
injector.
It is sometimes easier to make the
injector connection directly across
the vehicle’s EMC, which is usually
located in the front passenger foot
well or under the dashboard.
Note that this method of fuel
measurement is only suitable for EFI
engines with one injector per cylinder and constant fuel rail regulation.
Other engine setups may have to be
treated as a carburetted engine and a
fuel flow sensor fitted.
terminals of the fuel sensor is connected to the input terminals via shielded
cable – the shield itself connects to the
“ground” terminal.
There are various types of fuel flow
sensors (or meters) available but the
flow sensor used by Oztechnics produces 780 pulses for every 100ml of
fuel which flows through it.
This is its calibration number. The
OzTrip Computer needs the calibration number entered into it (via the
Fuel Calibration menu) so it can calculate the fuel flow.
The flow sensor should be mounted
in a vertical position with the fuel
entering at the bottom of the sensor
and leaving at the top for optimum
operation.
Diagnostic/calibration menus
In addition to the 81 functions
which can be selected, two-sub menus
are available for Diagnostic and Calibration functions.
When the diagnostic menu is accessed with the UP + Set/Clear key
Speed alarm
The speed alarm has a piezo siren
and a visual “SLO” message to warn
you that you are exceeding the speed
limit. The alarm sounds 5km/h above
the set speed – for example, if you set
the alarm at 60km/h, it will trigger
when your speed reaches 65km/h.
The speed alarm can be set and
cleared when the “speed” is displayed, using functions 1, 28 or 55.
Pressing the SET/CLEAR key when
the speed is above 40km/h will set
the speed alarm at the current speed.
To disable the speed alarm the SET/
CLEAR key is pressed when the speed
is below 40kmn/h.
Sprint timer
Flow sensor operation
Fitting a fuel flow sensor for non-EFI
or non-standard EFI vehicles is quite
simple: the fuel line is broken somewhere between the fuel pump and
the carburettor and the fuel sensor is
connected in series, securely clamped
to the line by worm-drive hose clamps.
Connection to the OzTrip computer
is via optional PC board 3. Each of the
sequence a “diAg” message is briefly
displayed then the ENTER LED lights.
You must enter a value between 1-5
into the computer to select the appropriate diagnostic function. The Diagnostic functions are listed in Table 4.
When the calibration menu is accessed with the Down + Set/Clear key
sequence a “CAL” message is briefly
displayed then the ENTER LED lights.
You must enter a value between 1-7
into the computer to select the appropriate calibration function. The
Calibration functions are listed in
Table 3.
This fuel flow sensor is available from
Oztechnics for those with carburetted
or non-standard EFI vehicles.
The sprint timer is used to calculate
the time it takes for the vehicle to
travel over a preset distance. Typically
this distance would be 400m (roughly
the old “quarter mile”) because that is
the usual distance drag races cover.
But if you want to time your vehicle
over any distance – 100m or 100km,
all you have to do is tell the computer.
When the Sprint Timer option is
selected from the Cal Menu/Option 7,
April 2000 65
This photo and the
diagram show the
assembly details
for board 1 (the
display board). The
connections all go to
PC board 2, with links
A-H actually 1kΩ
resistors. All other
connections are short
wire links. Note the
10mm spacer position
on the PC board.
the computer asks for the distance to
be timed (“Dist”) and then a 9-second
countdown starts.
When the count down reaches 0000,
a BEEP is heard and the timer starts.
When the vehicle has travelled the
entered distance the timer is frozen,
displaying the time duration with an
accuracy of tenths of a second.
Pressing the Mode/Enter Key
returns the computer to normal operation.
Journey counter
The Journey counter is the main distance/timer counter and is represented by the Trip 1 Counter, F5 (distance)
& F20 (time). The functions which are
derived from the Journey counter are
F2, F9, F11, F13, F15, F18 & F21.
Parts List
2 PC boards, each 135 x 31mm,
coded QIP1 & QIP2
1 4MHz crystal
4 PCB pushbutton switches (S1
-S4)
1 case
1 red acrylic (filter) front panel
1 10mm spacer
2 screws
Semiconductors
1 68HC705C8A programmed
microcontroller (IC4)
1 40106 quad Schmitt trigger
inverter (IC3)
1 LM317 variable regulator
(REG1/IC1)
1 LM78L05 5V positive regulator
(REG2/IC2)
20 BC559 PNP transistors (Q1Q20)
1 BC547 NPN transistor (Q21)
3 1N914 diodes (D3, D4, D6)
3 1N4004 diodes (D1, D2, D5)
66 Silicon Chip
3 1N4733 5V zener diodes (ZD1ZD3)
4 FND506 7-segment LED
displays (SEG1-SEG4)
8 3mm red LEDs (LED1-LED8)
Capacitors
1 1000µF (C7)
2 100µF (C10, C12)
1 10µF (C11)
6 0.1µF (C5, C6, C8, C9, C13,
C14)
2 .001µF (C1, C2)
2 22pF (C3, C4)
Resistors (1%, 0.25W)
1 10MΩ (R5)
2 33kΩ (R1, R3)
9 10kΩ (R2, R4, R9, R11-R13,
R33-R36)
23 2.2kΩ (R8, R14-R25, R37-R44,
R58-R59)
10 1kΩ (R6, R7, R60-R67)
8 22Ω (R26-R32, R45)
When the computer is RESET using
the Mode/Enter + Set/Clear combinations, the Distance Travelled on the
Trip1 counter is copied to the Distance
Remaining Function (F6) and the
Trip1 counters are cleared ready for
a new journey.
If the same trip is being travelled
then the distance remaining in F6 is
already set, otherwise it will have to
be entered for correct operation.
If the distance remaining of journey
is not entered or is incorrect then the
distance remaining of journey (F6) &
Time remaining at current/average
speed to complete journey (F23/F24)
will be incorrect.
That completes the description of
the various functions of the OzTrip
Computer. Now we’ll put it together!
You may need to refer to the circuit
diagram published last month if any
of the following is unclear. There are
some differences in the way components are marked on the PC board and
in the text. For example, we refer to
transistors as “Q1, Q2,” etc but the PC
board shows them as “TR1, TR2,” etc.
Likewise regulators REG1 and REG2
are labelled “IC1” and “IC2”, the 7-segment displays DISP1-4 are labelled
“SEG1-4”, the LEDs are labelled “L”
and some capacitors shown in µF on
the circuit may be shown in nF.
Construction
There are two PC boards to assemble.
This is made easy by following the component mask printed onto the PCBs.
Here are the
assembly details
for PC board 2.
The RED leads
go to PC board 1,
while the GREEN
leads go to PC
board 3 if it is
used. The parts
shown in red are
installed first, on
the reverse side
of the PC board.
IC5, R58 & R59
(shown in blue)
are optional and
not included in
the kit. Note also
that some of the
parts adjacent to
IC3 on the prototype are not
used in the final
version.
Before mounting any components,
check that the PC boards fit into the
case and the case closes properly. It
may be necessary to round the corners
of the boards slightly with a file to
en-sure the cases halves fits together.
Start with PC board 1, the display
board. This is the easier of the two
main boards because all components
are mounted on one side.
Solder in the lowest profile components first (resistors), followed by
the LEDs and transistors, taking care
with the polarity of the LEDs (in all
cases, the anodes or longer legs go to
the right). The LEDs should all mount
so that they are about 3mm above the
PC board. The transistors mount hard
down on the board.
Next solder in the four LED displays – the decimal points all go to
the bottom – and the four pushbutton
switches or keys. Again, these must be
inserted the right way for switching
action to occur – the notches go to
the top and bottom. The LED displays
and switches mount right down on
the PC board.
Note that there are four diode positions marked on the PC board which
are not used.
PC board 2, the one containing
the ICs, has components mounted
on both sides. You must solder the
components on the bottom side first
as IC1 hides resistors R26, R37-R44
and transistors Q13-Q20, which are
mounted directly under it. Resistors
R37-R44 are mounted on their ends.
Proceed with the assembly as per
board 1. The piezo buzzer can either
be mounted on the board or externally
(eg, on the case) via flying leads.
Note that there is provision for
mounting a serial EEPROM (IC5) and
two resistors (R58 & R59) on the bottom of the board but they are not used
in this particular application.
Eight 1kΩ resistors and 21 wire
links are used to bridge the two PC
boards (component lead offcuts can
be used for the links).
After carefully inspecting both
boards for the usual soldering mishaps
place both boards back to back and
use the spacer and screws to join both
Parts List For Non-EFI
Option (PC Board 3)
1 PC board (coded QIP3)
10 63mm lengths tinned copper
or hookup wire
Semiconductors
1 4020 (IC8)
1 MAX232 (IC6)
1 TL082
(IC7)
Capacitors
6 10µF (C15 - C20)
Resistors
4 10MΩ (R46, R49, R54, R57)
8 1kΩ (R47-R48, R50-R53,
R55-R56)
1 22Ω (R60)
boards together. This done, install
resistors R60-R67 (1kΩ), then install
the wire links.
The boards have plated-through
holes so all soldering can be done from
the outside but before final soldering
make sure both boards are parallel
to each other and aligned correctly.
There should be exactly 10mm between the PC boards.
If the third PC board is being used,
assemble it in the same way. PC stakes
should be installed on the back of
the board for external connections.
PC board 3 is mounted with its components facing forward and linked to
PC board 2 via long lengths of tinned
copper wire. The two boards should
be exactly 60mm apart.
There is an obvious danger of the
tinned copper wire shorting but when
assembled in the case, the wires can
be bent out of each other’s way. They
are rigid enough to stay in the same
position. However, if you have any
doubts at all, some or all of the tinned
copper wire can be replaced with
insulated hookup wire or you could
slide an insulation sleeve over each
length of tinned copper wire before
soldering it in.
Mounting in the case
Before installing the two or three PC
boards in the case, the bottom screw
lugs need to be removed from inside
the case so that the display board is
clear of them. The lugs can be drilled
or filed down.
April 2000 67
This is the optional PC
board 3 for non-EFI
vehicles, also shown samesize. The connecting links
(shown in green) back
to PC board 2 need to be
about 63mm long to allow
the boards to mount 60mm
apart and so fit into the
slots in the case.
IC8, shown in blue, is not
required in this project nor
included in the kit. Its job
was to divide and shape
incoming pulses but was
found to be unnecessary. If
the computer is to be used
for general-purpose data
logging applications (as it
can be) this facility could
be quite handy!
You will need to drill out a small
hole on the back panel of the case so
that the 6-core cable can enter the
computer from behind. Use a grommet
on the back panel to secure and protect
the cable. A logical colour code for the
6-core cable is given in Table 1.
Testing
Much of the testing is undertaken
using the computer’s own diagnostic
functions. These tests are undertaken
BEFORE the computer is installed in
a vehicle. Follow the steps below for
a thorough testing procedure:
Step 1: apply +12VDC and ground to
the respective inputs. Nothing should
happen
Step 2: apply +12V to the accessory
input. You should hear a BEEP out of
the computer and a message displayed
on the display “tRiP 1.0” – Trip computer, version 1.0. Disconnecting the
accessory input from the +12V should
shut the computer down.
Step 3: check that the keyboard
is functioning correctly by pressing
every key; a BEEP should be heard
every time a key is pressed. Use the
Diagnostic Menu Option 4 to check
all the key combinations.
Step 4: check the display and use
Diagnostic Option 5 to cycle through
all of the display.
Step 5: check the speed input by
using Diagnostic Option 1 and pulsing the speed input with a voltage of
5-12VDC. The display should register
the pulses. Remember the display
might jump up very quickly because
the input is very sensitive.
Step 6: check the fuel input by using
Diagnostic Option 2. If the computer
has been configured for EFI operation,
pulse the input with a 5-12VDC signal
to trip the counter. If a Flow Sensor is
connected blow into the sensor and it
should register on the display.
Step 7: test the display-dimming
feature by connecting +12VDC to the
headlight input.
Testing is now complete. If all tests
were satisfactory the computer can
now be installed into a vehicle and
calibrated.
Speed calibration
Speed sensor calibration can be
achieved in two ways. The first method involves using the Cal Menu Option #1 automatic calibration mode.
This requires you to drive a known
distance while the computer counts
the pulses from the speed sensor.
Your local motor registry or transport department should be able to
tell you where an accurate “speedo
calibration” stretch of road is located
(most are on freeways). Alternatively,
most taxi companies have a known
length of road for calibrating taxi meters. Also most new cars have a quite
The two boards have to be exactly 10mm apart and exactly parallel. Here you can see how the 10mm spacer, resistors
(which are actually 1kΩ now) and the wire links (cut-offs from resistors) achieve this spacing. It’s very rigid, too.
68 Silicon Chip
Table 1: Wiring Colours
Colour
Connection
Orange
Green
Blue
Brown
Black
White
+12V DC
Ground
+12V DC Accessories
Speed Sender
Fuel Injector
Headlight
accurate speedo (odometer) but older
cars may not be so good.
During calibration, the computer
displays the message “DiSt”, “CAL”,
“value” where “value” represents the
number of pulses received from the
speed sensor.
Once the known distance has been
travelled, the Mode/Enter key is
pressed to end counting and the distance travelled is entered. The computer divides the distance travelled by the
number of pulses counted and stores
the value as a calibration number.
It is a good idea to record the Distance Calibration number using Cal
Menu Option #2 – View Modify Speed
Sensor Calibration number, so that if
power is lost you can manually enter
the number into the computer without
having to repeat the entire calibration
process.
The second calibration method
is to manually calculate how many
millimetres each pulse from the speed
sender represents and entering the
value in number of mm’s using Cal
Menu Option #2.
This number can be calculated by
measuring the diameter of the tyre and
dividing that by the number of sensor
pulses per wheel revolution. This
method is not normally as accurate
as the first method.
EFI Calibration
Follow these steps to calibrate the
Table 2: Resistor Colour Codes
No.
1 (or 5*)
2
9
23
10 (or 18*)
8 (or 9*)
Value
10MΩ
33kΩ
10kΩ
2.2kΩ
1kΩ
22Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black blue brown
yellow yellow orange brown
brown black orange brown
red red red brown
brown black red brown
red red black brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black green brown
yellow yellow black red brown
brown black black red brown
red red black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
red red black gold brown
(* extra resistors required if PC board 3 is used)
April 2000 69
Here are the three PC boards mounted in the case, complete with the red acrylic filter. Note that the filter is in the first
slot. The display PC board is not in any slot but is held in place by the second PC board 10mm behind it in the second
slot. The optional third PC board is in the third slot with the back panel in the fourth.
computer for EFI operation:
Step 1: fill the fuel tank (ie, all the
way to full.
Step 2: ensure the “EFI” Mode is
selected (Cal Menu Option #7).
Step 3: select the Fuel Calibrate
Mode from the Cal Menu Option 3 to
start calibration. During calibration
the message “Fuel”, “CAL”, “EFI”,
“value” will be displayed. The “value”
represents the total pulse width time.
This value must not exceed “4294”.
Drive the vehicle for as many trips
as required until 80-99% of the fuel
tank is used or the value approaches
“4294”. If you exceed the value of
“4294” then an error message will be
displayed and you will have to start
calibration again. When the value
reaches “3500” the computer will
beep to indicate that it is approaching
the end of its calibration range.
Step 4: fill the tank to the same point
again and note exactly how much fuel
was used. Press the Mode/Enter key
and then the computer will ask you to
enter the Fuel Used. This completes
fuel calibration.
It is a good idea to take a note of
the fuel calibration number using Cal
Menu Option 4 in case the computer
loses its settings – you can manually
input the calibration number without
having to recalibrate the computer.
Fuel flow sensor calibration
To calibrate the computer for Flow
70 Silicon Chip
Sensor Operation you will need to
know the calibration number of the
sensor being used which is number
of pulses the sensor emits per 100ml
of fuel used. The sensor used by
Oztechnics, for example, has a fuel
calibration factor of 780.
Step 1: ensure the “FLO” Mode is
selected (Cal Menu Option #7).
Step 2: select the Fuel Calibrate
Mode from the Cal Menu Option
Step 3: enter the flow sensor calibration factor.
That's all there is to sensor calibration.
Engine tacho calibration
(EFI mode only)
The Engine Tacho is only operational in the EFI mode as the injector
frequency is also used to determine
the RPM of the engine. A calibration
number, which for most engines
will be 120, must be entered into the
computer.
Enter this number using the CAL
Menu option #5. The maximum value
is 255. The calibration number may be
different for some EFI systems which
fire the injectors more than once per
cycle. The calibration number for
these engines may need to be determined by trial and error.
If the flow sensor mode is used, you
can enter 1 to display the frequency
of the flow sensor or 60 to display the
RPM of the sensor.
Serial data link & logging
A Windows 95/98 Virtual Dashboard application can be used to display the OzTrip Computer’s Telemetry.
It is also possible to control the OzTrip
from this application.
A 2-way serial data link is used between the OzTrip Computer and a PC
and the data from the microcontroller
needs to be RS232-translated. This is
achieved via optional PC board 3. This
PC board and the optional software are
available separately.
The Virtual Dashboard Visual Basic
source code is also available separately so that it can be customised for
individual applications.
We plan to present another part
to the OzTrip Computer in a future
issue detailing the use of the Virtual
Dashboard and describing remote
monitoring/control.
Errata
The following recent amendments
should be noted for the circuit diagram
published on pages 90-91 of the March
2000 issue: the 10kΩ resistors to the
bases of Q5-Q12 and Q13-Q20 have
now been changed to 2.2kΩ.
Also, power to the TL082 (IC7) pin
8 on board 3 has been changed: it is
now taken not from the +5V rail as
shown but from +12V via the ignition
switch, through a 22Ω resistor (R60)
decoupled by a 10µF electrolytic capacitor (C15).
Finally, the 5V supply to the MAX232 (IC6) goes direct to pin 16, not pin
SC
2 as shown.
Where To Buy The Parts
A full kit of parts can be purchased from
Oztechnics Pty Ltd. You can place your
order on-line from the Oztechnics secured
web server or make inquiries via email.
Visa, MasterCard and Bankcard accepted.
All components, case and laser cut front
panel filter are included in the kit.
Note: this project and software is copyright
to Oztechnics Pty Ltd.
Description
OzTrip Computer Kit (boards 1 & 2).......................................................$129
PC board 3 Kit........................................................................................$59 (a)
(Signal Conditioning & Serial Data Comm’s PCB kit + PC software)
Fuel Flow Sensor....................................................................................$119 (b)
Proximity Switch (speed sensor)...........................................................$30
Oztechnics V2.0 Car Computer Kit (LCD Model)....................................$179
P&P........................................................................................................$10
(a) & (b) are required for fuel flow installation. (a) is required for data logging.
Oztechnics Pty Ltd, PO Box 38, Illawong, NSW 2234. Phone: 02 9541 0310; Fax: 02 9541 0734.
Website: www.oztechnics.com.au Email: info<at>oztechnics.com.au
April 2000 71
Do you need to track
temperatures inside a coolroom, a shipping container
or inside a factory or
warehouse? This low-cost
logger is set up using a PC
and can record up to 2048
measurements. The
accompanying software lets
you display the results as a
table or in graphical form.
Design By MARK ROBERTS
Temperature Lo
L
OW COST, portability and versatility are the key features of
this temperature recorder project. All components are mounted on
a single PC board measuring only 57
x 60mm, which means that it could
be placed just about anywhere that
temperature monitoring is required.
No external connections are required
during operation, as the recorder
is powered by an on-board battery
and all measurements are logged in
non-volatile memory.
The recorder board plugs directly
into the parallel port of your PC to
allow setup and data retrieval. Windows-based software makes the task
straightforward and even includes
charting and graphing facilities.
The measurement range is from
-40°C to +85°C in 0.5°C increments
and a total of 2048 measurements can
be logged in memory. Also included is
a histogram feature which provides 63
data bins with 2°C increments. Both
temperature logging and histogram
tabulation can be programmed for
72 Silicon Chip
sampling intervals of once per minute
to once every 255 minutes.
Circuit details
A Dallas DS1615 temperature
recorder IC does all the work (see
Fig.1). The actual temperature sensor
is contained on-chip, as is a real time
clock/calendar, non-volatile memory,
a serial interface and the associated
control logic (see Fig.2).
The DS1615 can source power from
either its VCC or VBAT pins. When the
VCC pin is higher than VBAT, the entire chip is powered from VCC. When
the VBAT pin is higher than VCC, the
VBAT pin powers everything except
the serial interface circuitry.
Two TTL output lines from the
PC parallel port supply power to the
VCC pin via a 100µF capacitor. At
first glance this might seem to be a
rather unorthodox approach but as
the DS1615 draws little current it
does the job.
A 3.6V lithium battery powers the
temperature recorder when it’s not
connected to a PC. With the serial
interface powered down, current is
really only consumed during a temperature conversion cycle, when it
peaks at a maximum of 600µA. This
drops to a couple of µA between
conversions, which is probably less
than normal battery leakage. As you
can see, the sample rate ultimately
determines battery life.
Communication with the DS1615 is
via the PC parallel port and a 3-wire
synchronous serial bus. Transfers are
initiated when the RST pin is driven
high. Data is clocked in/out of the I/O
pin by high-low-high pulses on the
SCLK pin, with a maximum transfer
speed of 2Mbps.
On the PC side, data is received
on parallel port pin 10 and transmitted on parallel port pin 6. When
the DS1615 is transmitting data, the
software writes a low to pin 6 of the
parallel port to reverse bias diode D1.
As a matter of interest, the DS1615
also provides an asynchronous serial
interface (on pins TX and RX), suita-
Fig.1: the circuit is based on the Dallas DS1615 temperature recorder IC. The device is self-powered and is plugged
into the parallel port of a PC for setup and data retrieval.
ogger
ble for interfacing to a PC serial port
or modem. However, neither the PC
board nor software provide support
for this connection method.
Pushbutton switch S1 performs
double duty. When it is pressed, data
logging is initiated and the red and
green LEDs flash simultaneously four
times to indicate acknowledgment.
Alternatively, if data logging is
already under way, pressing S1
instructs the DS1615 to check its
temperature alarm status. If all the
samples recorded to that point are
within the lower and upper temperature range (programmed during setup), the green LED flashes four times
(INSPEC). If any sample exceeded the
thresholds, the red LED flashes four
times (OUTSPEC).
Of course, the software can also
perform all these functions and more
but the switch and LEDs provide a
quick way of checking temperature
alarm status without having to plug
the recorder into a PC.
What about the yellow LED? This
LED illuminates whenever the INT
pin is driven low in response to a
temperature and/or time of day alarm.
Once active, the INT pin remains so
until cleared under software control.
You will probably want to disable
this feature to maximise battery life.
Alternatively, the INT output could
be interfaced with other low-power
CMOS logic for remote temperature
alarm monitoring.
Finally, a 32.768kHz watch crystal
together with an internal oscillator
provides the timebase for the DS1615s
clock/calendar circuitry.
If you would like to delve more
deeply into the internal workings of
the DS1615, the complete datasheet
is available for download from the
Dallas Semiconductor website at
www.dalsemi.com
Construction
With only a handful of components,
this could be the simplest project
you’ve ever constructed!
First, carefully check the PC board
for shorts between tracks. This is particularly important as the battery is a
high-energy lithium type and won’t
cope well with a short circuit!
Fig.3 shows the full-size compo-
Fig.2: block diagram of the DS1615 Temperature Recorder IC
internals. Even the temperature sensor is located on-chip.
April 2000 73
you must, a word of warning - it
will probably need to be quite short
due to the low-cost design of the
interface.
Another point we should mention is that if you come in contact
with any of the connections on
the PC board while the DS1615
is recording, data corruption may
result. To reduce the chances of
this happening, a piece of insulating material could be attached
to the solder side of the board, or
you might opt to fashion a simple
enclosure (open to free air, of
course!).
Fig.3: the full-size component overlay
for the Temperature Recorder. Link L1
functions as the on/off switch.
nent overlay. As usual, install the
links, resistors and diode first, followed by the crystal and LEDs. Note
that depending on the revision of PC
board you receive, you may notice a
diode (D2) shown on the silk screen
overlay next to IC1 – do not install
anything in this position.
We recommend socketing the
DS1615, so install the IC socket next.
The D-connector and 2-way header
pins for LK1 can be installed next but
don’t install the jumper shunt just yet.
Now install the capacitors, switch and
battery. Finally, plug in the DS1615
IC (carefully noting its orientation)
and install the jumper shunt on LK1.
The Temperature Recorder PC
board is designed to plug directly
into the parallel port connector on
your PC. We don’t recommend using
a cable to make the connection but if
Software
Software suitable for Windows
95/98 and Windows NT is provided
on four floppy disks. To install it, run
the Setup.exe file on the first disk and
follow the on-screen instructions.
Click on the Start button and select
Programs, DS1615 Temperature Recorder to launch the program. Every
time the software is launched, a dialog
box appears that allows you to select
which port the recorder is connected
to (LPT1 or LPT2).
A total of six tabulated windows
provide easy access to all software
functions. First stop is the Time/
Alarm window, as this allows us to
set the DS1615’s clock and calendar
(Fig.4). Clicking on the red circle
at the bottom of the calendar automatically sets the date to match the
current PC date. The time must be set
manually using the up/down arrows
next to the time display.
The Time/Alarm window also al-
Fig.4: clicking on the red circle at the bottom of the
calendar automatically sets the date to match the current
PC date.
74 Silicon Chip
Parts List
1 PC board, 57 x 60mm
1 DB-25 PC-mount male
connector (CON1)
1 3.6V PC-mount Lithium battery
1 16-pin IC socket
1 32.768kHz crystal (X1)
1 4-disk software package
Semiconductors
1 DS1615 temperature recorder
IC (IC1)
1 1N4148 diode (D1)
1 subminiature red LED (LED1)
1 subminiature green LED (LED3)
1 subminiature yellow LED (LED2)
Capacitors
1 100µF 16VW PC electrolytic
1 0.1µF monolithic ceramic
Resistors (0.25W, 5%)
4 2.7kΩ
1 1kΩ
Where To Buy The Parts
Full kit (hardware & software.....$65
PC board only.............................$6
Payment by cheque or money order
to Softmark, PO Box 1609, Hornsby
NSW 2077. Phone/fax (02) 9482
1565; email softmark<at>ar.com.au
Please add $6 for postage.
Website: www.ar.com.au/~softmark
lows us to alter the DS1615 control
register bits. Let’s briefly examine
each of these settings:
(a) The Disable Oscillator setting
Fig.5: the temperature alarm is set here. If an alarm
condition occurs, the respective indicator changes colour.
The settings can’t be altered once recording is under way.
The DB-25M connector mounts on the PC board, so that
you can plug the unit directly into the PC’s parallel port.
shuts down the DS1615s internal
oscillator if it’s not in the process of
logging data. The chip enters standby
mode, drawing only about 0.2µA.
(b) The Clear mem-Enable setting
enables clearing of all internal memory including datalog and histogram
memory (a clear memory command
can be issued from the Graph window).
(c) Pushbutton switch S1 (see hardware section) can be enabled or disabled with the Start Ext-Enable setting.
(d) The Roll Over setting, if select
ed, allows data recording to “wrap
around” when memory is full (ie after
2048 samples).
(e) Finally, hitting the SAVE NEW
button saves the current settings
(including the alarm time) in a file
called DS1615.ini in the C:\Windows
Fig.6: temperature sampling is set up and initiated from
this window. Note that if a recording is in progress,
clicking in the START LOGGING button actually stops
recording.
directory. This initilisation file is automatically loaded each time the software is started. Note that if recording
is in progress when you change any
of the settings, it will be terminated
when the software writes the changes
to the DS1615.
As mentioned in the hardware
description, the DS1615 includes a
temperature alarm feature. This is
programmed in the Temperature window (Fig.5). The indicators marked
“THigh”, “TLow” and “Time” display
current alarm status. Note that the
“Time” indicator is associated with
the time of day alarm, which is set in
the Time/Alarm window.
Recording settings are found in
the Graph window (Fig.6). Both the
sampling interval (Sample Ratio) and
delay until first sample can be set
Fig.7: a variety of graph types and colours are supported
in the histogram-plotting feature.
here. Clicking on the START LOGGING button initiates the recording
cycle. Once at least one sample has
been performed, clicking on the READ
button retrieves datalog memory and
displays the readings on the graph.
Note that the Total Samples value
is the total number of samples ever
performed. This value can be zeroed
by disconnecting the battery.
Histogram memory is retrieved and
displayed in the Histogram window
(Fig.7). There are no surprises here,
so let’s skip over to the Logging window (Fig.8). Clicking on the Read Log
button reads datalog memory and
creates a log file called DS1615.txt
in the root directory of your C: drive.
This file could easily be imported into
a spreadsheet or database for further
SC
processing.
Fig.8: log files can be created, viewed and printed from
the logging tab.
April 2000 75
Large-screen
LCD monitors
have arrived and
they look great.
We review the
Diamond View
DV180, the latest
generation in
flat-screen
displays from
Mitsubishi
Australia.
By PETER SMITH
Mitsubishi Diamond View
DV180 LCD Monitor
A
FTER USING A LAPTOP computer with a liquid crystal display (LCD) for a number of
months and then moving back to a
standard CRT monitor, I immediately
became aware of just how easy on the
eyes a good LCD can be. So naturally,
I wasn’t complaining when one of the
latest LCD monitors arrived on my
desk for review.
Not too long ago, the high cost of
LCD panels prohibited their use in
desktop monitors, at least for the mass
market. In addition, design improvements needed to be made in areas like
colour saturation, image persistence
and viewing angle before they could
76 Silicon Chip
compete directly with CRT displays.
All that is now changing as improving manufacturing methods and
technological advances push the price
down and the display quality up.
If you’ve been on the lookout for a
new computer or monitor lately, you
will probably have noticed the steady
increase in the variety of LCD monitors being offered for sale. Manufacturers such as Dell, IBM and Compaq
are now offering LCD monitors as
options with their systems.
Prices are on the way down but
are still rather high by comparison –
you’ll typically pay as much as 2-4
times more for an LCD monitor than
for the “equivalent” conventional
type. That’s outrageously expensive, I
hear you say. But you do get a lot more
(or should I say less?) for your money.
So what are the advantages of LCDs?
Well, they don’t suffer from the many
alignment problems that plague CRTs,
like pincushion distortion, colour
misconvergence, poor focus, etc.
What’s more, they don’t emit potentially harmful radiation, they consume
much less power and perhaps best of
all, they’re incredibly thin!
Big screen
If you prefer a large-screen monitor
for work or play, until very recently
you had no choice but to stick with
the CRT variety. From a display viewpoint, the large-screen advantages are
obvious but take a tape measure with
you when you go to buy one – it might
not fit on your desk (hey, this thing’s
bigger than my bar fridge!).
The good news is that LCD monitors
with screen sizes of 21 inches or more
are now available – and their image
quality is nothing short of amazing!
The Diamond View DV180 reviewed
here has a generous 18.1-inch (46cm)
screen size. Note that this is the actual
viewable size, measured diagonally.
By contrast, CRT monitors are not listed by their viewable size but rather the
tube size, which is usually somewhat
larger. This means that the DV180’s
18.1 inches is roughly equivalent to
a conventional 19-inch monitor in
viewable size.
One of the first things you notice
about LCD monitors is their size. In
comparison to CRT monitors, they occupy only a fraction of the desk space.
Of course, this also means that they
weigh a lot less – a welcome change
from my 21-inch CRT monitor, which
is a two-person lift!
Setting it up
Unpacking and setting up the Mit
subishi DV180 was a snap. It accepts
analog (as opposed to digital) video
input, so it simply plugs into your
standard SVGA card. Driver software
for Windows 95 & 98 is included on
diskette, along with a utility that
allows automatic adjustment of the
display. Unlike some other models
that have a separate power pack, the
DV180 has an inbuilt power supply –
the 240V cable plugs directly into the
base of the stand.
Having installed the driver software, we went into “Display Properties” to set the display resolution to
1280 x 1024 pixels – the monitor’s
“native” resolution. As with most LCD
monitors, the DV180 automatically
expands lower-resolution images (800
x 600, for example) to fill the entire
screen. Unfortunately, expanded images are nowhere near as clear as those
displayed in native mode. Scaling images to fill the entire screen while still
retaining reasonable picture quality is
apparently quite difficult and there is
some variation in the results between
manufacturers.
If necessary, auto-expansion (called
“Zoom” in the DV180) can be disabled
LCD panels lack the sheer bulk of conventional monitors which means that
they’re far easier to fit on the desktop. They’re considerably lighter too!
in the DV180’s on-screen set-up. Not
all monitors allow you to disable this
feature, so the DV180 scores here.
The only other settings to consider
are the refresh frequency and colour
palette. The refresh frequency setting
is not critical, as LCD monitors do not
suffer from the annoying flickering
that haunts CRTs at the lower (60Hz
and below) rates, especially under
fluorescent lighting. We set ours to
75Hz since the DV180 can handle this
quite comfortably.
Finally, the DV180 can display 16.7
million colours, so we selected the
closest setting – True Colour.
Adjustment
The DV180’s auto-adjust feature
makes display adjustment a simple
task. The first step is to run the AUTO.
EXE program to display the full-screen
alignment pattern. You then push
the “Auto” button on the front of the
monitor and you’re done!
Manual adjustment is also possible
with the aid of the On-Screen Display
(OSD) system and a single wheel
located on the lower, righthand side
of the display panel. This wheel also
functions as a pushbutton, operating
in a very similar manner to the scroll
wheel on many mice.
Pushing the wheel brings up the
on-screen display (OSD) and it also
enters your selection (like pressing
the Enter key) within the OSD menus.
Rotating the wheel moves among the
various options, as well as allowing
you to increase or decrease any setting
you choose.
I was about to complain about the
lack of separate brightness and contrast controls (these can be varied
from within the OSD menu, of course),
when I discovered that simply rotating
the wheel when the OSD menu isn’t
on the screen does the job. Move the
wheel in the anticlockwise direction
and the contrast setting appears; move
it clockwise and the brightness setting
appears – brilliant! Next time, I’ll read
the manual first, I promise!
Subjective impressions
Did we mention that the picture
April 2000 77
DV180. We didn’t notice it during
normal use but then we don’t run
video applications.
Another problem with some LCD
monitors is that variations in the
backlighting can cause light and dark
spots across the face of the panel. We
didn’t notice any evidence of this on
the DV180 although we did notice
some shimmering (or noise) when
displaying certain fine-line dark images. This is probably an artifact of the
analog-to-digital conversion process
and was easily corrected by performing the auto-adjust procedure or by
tweaking the “clock phase” setting in
the OSD menu.
Audio & USB
The rear panel of the DV180 carries the audio input and output sockets plus
four powered USB ports. A pair of multimedia speakers is also included in the
stand, along with a 1W stereo amplifier.
quality is outstanding? The high
brightness and excellent contrast of
the DV180 results in a really crisp,
clear image that just can’t be matched
on a conventional monitor. Lack of
refresh-induced flicker is noticeable
by its absence too, as images are rock
steady.
A common complaint about LCDs
in the past concerned their narrow
viewing angle – shift your body position slightly and the display appeared
to fade. However, this is no longer a
problem because current high-quality
monitors have a wide viewing angle
– 160° or more horizontally for most
large-screen panels (the DV180 has
180°).
CRTs still have the edge over LCD
panels when it comes to image persistence. Fast-moving objects, such
as those in video clips or animations
can cause a slight smearing effect on
an LCD monitor. This is due to the
speed at which the crystal elements
themselves can be switched (or polarised) and although this effect has
been minimised, it is still apparent
to a small degree on the latest panels.
This effect seemed small on the
LCD Monitors & Interface Standards
The majority of LCD monitors
on the market today accept analog
video input. While this means that
they connect directly to existing VGA/
SVGA graphics cards, the LCD panel
is a digital device, so the incoming
analog signal needs to be converted
to digital.
As you may be aware, the reverse
process occurs at the PC side. The
graphics card receives information in
digital form and converts it to analog
at the output stage (CRT monitors
are analog devices).
The downside to this double conversion (digital to analog to digital),
78 Silicon Chip
apart from the cost of the redundant
electronics, is some loss of signal
information. This can result in lower-than-possible picture quality and
side effects like pixel “jitter”.
The solution, of course, is to use
an all-digital system. Graphics cards
based on a new standard called DVI
(Digital Visual Interface) that provide
both analog and digital support will
be available in the near future. In
the meantime, a few digital LCD
monitor and graphics card bundles are available but the choice is
limited and the cost is higher than
otherwise.
Included within the monitor stand
is a pair of multimedia speakers and
a 1W stereo amplifier. Input to the
amplifier is via a standard 3.5mm
stereo socket, situated at the rear of the
stand. The volume control is located
on the side of the stand and can be
accessed without too much difficulty
by reaching under the display panel.
Two additional 3.5mm sockets are
to be found at the rear of the stand;
one is the headphone output and the
other the microphone output. The
microphone itself is hidden behind a
tiny pinhole at the top of the display
panel.
Adding to its list of impressive features, the DV180 also includes a powered USB hub with four downstream
ports – just the ticket for connecting
up that ZIP drive, mouse, etc. The
USB connectors are also positioned
at the rear of the stand and while you
need to reach around the back to hook
things up, it’s not too difficult due to
the super-slim LCD casing.
Warranty
The Diamond View DV180 is supplied with a full 3-year warranty,
which includes the LCD backlight.
This is a distinct advantage, as many
other manufacturers cover the back
light for the first year only.
Why only one year? The backlight is
actually one or more fluorescent tubes
that have a limited life in comparison
to the LCD panel itself. They are also
quite fragile, although this concern
applies more to portables than to
desktop displays.
It follows that to get the longest life
out of your LCD monitor, you should
set up power saving in Windows so
Diamond
D
iamond View
View DV180
DV180 Specifications
Spec wications At
At AA Glance
Glance
Displ ay type
Thin film transistor (TFT) acti ve matrix panel
Max. vi ewabl e size
46cm (18.1 i nches) diagonal
Max. resolution
1280 x 1024 pixel s at up to 75Hz refresh rate
Displ ay size
359mm (H) x 287.2mm (V)
Pi xel pitch
0.28mm
Colour depth
Quasi-full colour (16.7 mil lion colours)
Luminance
200 Cd/m2 (typical)
Contrast ratio
200:1 (typical)
Vi ewing angl e
±80° horizontal, ±45° verti cal
Video
We couldn’t help taking a peek inside
the rear panel. The large vertical
board is a switchmode power supply
for the LCD panel.
that it is powered down when not
in use.
By the way, it is probable that
your LCD monitor will arrive from
the manufacturer with one of more
defects on the display panel. Defects
occur when a cell is stuck on (creating
a bright spot) or stuck off (creating a
dark spot). Each pixel is composed of
a group of three cells and with 1280 x
1024 pixels in all, that’s a total of over
3.9 million cells, so the chances of a
defect must be high. Often, manufacturers consider not just the number
of defects to be important but also
their grouping and whether they are
bright or dark.
Generally, a maximum of about six
defects is considered acceptable but
policies and specifications do vary.
Contact Mitsubishi Australia for a
copy of their “Pixel Defect Specification” if you would like the whole
picture.
Horizonta yrequency
31.5 - 80.5kHz, auto scanning
Verti ca yrequency
56 - 75Hz, auto scanning
Synchroni sation
Separate
Vi deo bandwidth
135MHz
Input signal
Vi deo analog RGB (positi ve)
Plug & Pl ay
Compatible with Windows 95, Windows 98 and
Windows 2000 (DDC-1 and DDC-2B)
User control s
On-Screen Displ ay (OSD)
Audio
Speaker output power
1W per channel (stereo)
Input impedance
50k
S/N ratio
50d B
Mi crophone sensiti vity
-68dB
Frequency response
100Hz ~ 20kHz
Power Requirements
Power input
90-264 VAC (47/63Hz)
Power consumption
75W maximum (supports VESA DPMS power saving
modes)
Input Connectors
Vi deo
15-pin mini D-sub
Audio
Stereo audio input - 3.5mm jack
Headphone j ack
3.5mm
Mi crophone output j ack
3.5mm
U SB
1 upstream, 4 downstream ports
Physical Characteristics
Dimensions (H x W x D)
457mm x 469mm x 217mm
Weight
9.8kg net
Final say
The Diamond View DV180 is a fine
example of current large-screen, stateof-the-art LCD monitors but at $6229
(incl. tax) it’s not for everyone. If you
see one, you’ll almost certainly want
it on your desk but of course, it will
need to fit your budget too!
Also available is the Diamond View
DV150, a 15.1-inch LCD monitor with
a more affordable price tag of $2440
(shop around for the best deal). Check
out Mitsubishi Electric Australia Pty
Ltd’s website at www.mitsubishi-electric.com.au for more details or phone
(02) 9684 7777.
SC
April 2000 79
NOW WITH 30 E
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s
s
e
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PER M
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VIC
Bacchus Marsh, Ballarat, Balliang, Bendigo, Cranbourne, Emerald, Geelong, Gisborne, Healesville, Kilmore, Kinglake, Lara,
Melbourne, Mornington , Nunawading, Pakenham , Romsey, Shepparton
NSW
Albury, Armidale, Bathurst, Camden, Campbelltown, Coffs Harbour, Dubbo, Gosford, Grafton, Lismore, Mulgoa, Newcastle,
Nowra, Penrith, Port Macquarie, Sydney, Tamworth, Taree, Wagga Wagga, Windsor, Wisemans Ferry, Wollongong
QLD
Brisbane, Bundaberg, Cairns, Gladstone, Gold Coast, Mackay , Maroochydore, Maryborough, Mt Isa, Rockhampton,
Toowoomba, Townsville
WA
Broome, Bunbury, Geraldton, Kalgoorlie, Katanning, Perth, Rockingham
SA
Adelaide, Gawler, Mt Gambier, Port Augusta
ACT
Canberra
NT
Darwin
TAS
Hobart
80 Silicon Chip
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your own email address
your own website space
100% peace-of-mind
100% satisfaction g'tee
You’ve seen all those other low-cost Internet access offers?
The ones which look great until you read the fine print?
Well, here's one without fine print!
The only restriction to this service is a $10 minimum per month
(5 hours included free) and payment may only be made by credit
card. All capitals and many larger cities covered.
INTERESTED? Call SILICON CHIP, totally obligation free,
on (02) 9979 5644, 9am - 5pm Mon-Fri for more details.
(We'll even call you back if STD). Or fax us on (02) 9979 6503.
Or if you already have web access,
April 2000 81
email silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au or www.silchip.com.au
PRODUCT SHOWCASE
Dual is back!
Jamo Australia has
recently been appointed
the Australian distributor
for the range of Dual turntables, made in Germany.
Dual, founded in 1900, is
celebrating 100 years of
manufacturing.
There are five models
in the DUAL range. The
midi size CS-400 retails
for $349. The ‘standard
width’ turntables start at
$499 retail for the CS-415,
a fully automatic, belt-driven model.
The CS-435, also a fully automatic
belt-driven model, sells for $599.00.
The next model up, the CS-455, is
supplied with an Ortofon cartridge and
will also play ‘78’ records. Available in
Low-cost DMM is
packed with features
gold or silver, it sells for $699.
The CS-505, now in its Mark 4 version, sells for $899 and is also supplied
with an Ortofon cartridge.
For more information, contact Jamo
Australia on (03) 9543 1522.
External case runs IDE drives from parallel port
Jaycar Electronics have recently
introduced a product which allows
any IDE device (hard disk drives,
CD-ROMs, Zip/Jazz drives, etc) to
be run outside the host computer
via its parallel printer port.
While removable drive drawers
for IDE devices have been available
for some time, they require access
to the internals of the computer, not
to mention a spare 5.25-inch drive
bay. This is a similar system, allowing various devices to be fitted, but
the computer does not have to be
opened. All that is required is connection to the parallel printer port
socket on the rear of the computer.
The existing printer cable then
plugs into the rear of the external
IDE box in “pass through” mode.
The box can stand horizontally
or vertically and suits half-height
5.25-inch devices, or 3.5-inch
devices with an optional 5.25 to
3.5 adaptor. It features an easily
removable tray so the device can
be mounted in a matter of seconds. Separate fascias are supplied
suiting both hard disk drives (as
photographed) or with a cut-out
82 Silicon Chip
to suit CD-ROM and other devices
with removable media.
The 270 x 210 x 60mm case has
its own 50 watt universal AC supply
and inbuilt cooling fan and comes
complete with all screws, connecting cables, plugs and sockets – even
down to twin RCA sockets for
CD-ROM audio outputs. A floppy
disk containing appropriate driver
software is also included.
The XC-4572 External IDE Expansion Enclosure sells for $179
and is available through any Jaycar
Electronics store, Jaycar mail orders
(phone 02 9743 5222 or www.jaycar.com.au) or most resellers.
A near-pocket-sized digital multimeter recently introduced by Altronics
Distributors would be a most suitable
choice for anyone
wanting to buy
their first digital
multimeter – and
for the more advanced student,
hobbyist, technician or professional looking
for a meter that
is packed with
features at a low
price.
The Q-1059
multimeter has
all the usual DC and AC ranges –
200mV to 600V DC, 200 to 500V AC,
2mA to 10A DC and five resistance
ranges to 20MΩ.
It also features diode testing, a continuity tester with buzzer, transistor
hFE and a temperature range with
K-type thermocouple supplied suitable for 0-250°C. A “hold” button in the
centre of the rotary selector freezes any
reading currently displayed.
The meter measures 135 x 70 x
35mm and is very comfortable in the
hand with its sculptured case.
Priced at $32.95 it represents very
good value for money, especially considering a thermocouple is supplied.
It is available from Altronics Distributors retail and mail order centre
at 174 Roe St, Perth WA 6000 (Phone
08 9328 1599, website www.altronics.
com.au) or through their authorised
resellers.
Test & measurement
brochure is free
The National Instruments Automated Test & Measurement Solutions brochure describes how test
management software, test programs,
instrument drivers and I/O interfaces
efficiently work together. Also included is information on several I/O inter-
PCB POWER
TRANSFORMERS
CCTV monitoring
system from DSE
The micromark CCTV Camera
System from Dick Smith Electronics is a fully self-contained camera
designed not only for indoor and
outdoor use but day and night
operation. With six infrared LEDs
to improve night-time vision and
a built-in microphone, the system
allows the user to not only watch
what is happening but listen as well.
A wide-angle 92° glass lens gives
a high quality picture. The system
includes the camera itself with a
17m screened cable, fully adjustable
mounting bracket, wall plugs, cable
clips and a 9V DC power adaptor.
Dual IGBT and
MOSFET gate driver
The new WSL2106 driver from
Westcode will drive two IGBTs as a
half bridge or as two independent
switches. The IGBTs are provided with
a ±15V and a 0-15V suppy in standard
version. Saturation of the IGBTs is
monitored and all logic inputs are of
the Schmitt trigger type. Input level
can be selected – 5V for HCMOS or
15V for CMOS. Error feedback can
be activated by the driver or by an
external signal.
For more information contact Westek Industrial Products Pty Ltd, Tel (03)
9369 8802, Fax (03) 9369 8006; website
www.westek.com.au
faces from Nation
al Instruments.
For your free
copy, call National Instruments
Aust on (03) 9879
1566, fax (03) 9879
6277, email info.
australia<at>ni.com
Website is www.ni.com/australia
1VA to 25VA
The system is available through
all Dick Smith Electronics stores,
mail order centre and PowerHouse
stores at a retail price of $199 (Cat.
L-5880). For further information
visit any store or the DSE website,
www.dse.com.au
Manufactured in Australia
Harbuch Electronics Pty Ltd
9/40 Leighton Pl. HORNSBY 2077
Ph (02) 9476-5854 Fx (02) 9476-3231
Power boards with a difference
Two new mains power devices from
PowerQwest will be of interest to
businesses, hobbyists and home users.
First is the Zapcatcher, a heavy-duty
power and telephone line filter intended for computers and peripherals, fax
machines and modems, shop cash
registers and POS terminals, and cordless phone and answering machines,
etc. Built into a 215 x 97 x 37mm case
and fitted with a 1.2m mains lead, it
has four standard 3-pin outlets along
with telephone line input and output
sockets (standard RJ-12 connectors).
The unit is designed to suppress
power line surges and spikes with a
peak rating of 6500A (8 x 20µs). An
indicator neon and LED show normal
operation, with a “strike” LED showing if the internal metal-oxide varistor
protection circuit has been damaged
by excessive surges. Fault conditions
in the power outlet are revealed by
another neon globe. A 10A circuit
breaker is also included to protect
against excessive loading. Maximum
loading is 2400W (10A).
There are also two large toroidal
inductors for mains-borne noise suppression and these give better than
40dB of noise rejection.
Second item is the Teleswitch, a
music muting system which automatically cuts power to any mains-operated device when the phone rings
and reconnects it when the call ends.
Similar in size to the Zapcatcher, it
also has spike suppression built in but
does not have the range of indicators.
Along with the four standard mains
outlets, this also has an IEC outlet
built in.
Only one of the four outlets is cut
off when the phone rings – presumably this would be the amplifier or
other audio source. All four outlets
have surge protection. A 10A thermal
circuit breaker is also included while
phone line connection is via standard
RJ-12 connectors
The Teleswitch is designed to work
with the normal analog phone network. It may not operate with some
PABX or digital phone systems.
The Zapcatcher3 and Teleswitch
are manufactured in New Zealand and
both carry Australian electricity and
Austel approval. They are available
from selected retailers throughout
Australia. Trade enquiries should be
directed to PowerQwest: phone (02)
9979 4811; fax (02) 9979 4833.
April 2000 83
80 minute minidisc and CD-R from TDK
TDK has released
new 80-minute versions
of its popular MiniDisc magneto-optical
recording media and
its audio recordable CD
(CD-R). The MiniDisc is
claimed to be more portable and durable than
either cassette tapes or
CD-R and is considered
to offer sound quality
comparable to CD and DAT.
TDK guarantees that the MiniDisc
is capable of more than one million
re-recordings due to its tough outer
polycarbonate resin coating.
To achieve the 80-minute playing
time, the track pitch was reduced while
still meeting the stringent specifications
of the format.
The 80-Minute
MiniDisk (MD-XG80)
sells for $7.95 at selected
TDK dealers.
The new recordable
CD offers six minutes
more recording time
than a conventional
recordable CD. It is designed specifically for
home recording but contains a pre-formatted table of contents
(TOC) and Serial Copy Management
System (SCMS) which inhibits making
copies from copies.
The CD-RXA80 is compatible with all
existing CD audio recorders. For more
information contact TDK on (02) 8437
0600 or visit www.tdk.com.au
Highly accurate
Hioki power meters
Hioki have introduced two new
“Power HiTesters” ideally suited
for the accurate evaluation of power
drawn by a large range of electrical
and electronic products, not only at
full power but also on stand-by.
They have applications in a wide
range of home, communication and
industrial electronic equipment.
The Hioki 3331 is for single and
3-phase use and can measure power
from as little as 7.5W single phase to
60kW, 3-phase, while the 3332 is for
single phase only and can measure
power from as low as 15mW to 120W.
Both instruments can measure line
voltage as high as 600VAC, line current
as high as 60A and active power, apparent power, reactive power, power factor and phase angle, accepting a wide
range of frequency inputs to 100kHz.
D/A outputs provide waveform data
which can be displayed on waveform
recorders.
For more information contact Nilsen
Technologies, freecall 1800 623 350,
freefax 1800 067 263.
New acquisition systems reduce testing times
The release of three new multi-channel data acquisition systems
from Acqiris promises to reduce test
times for applications that involve
high frequency electronic signals.
The Cougar systems, which are suited
to monitoring signals up to 500MHz
in frequency, deliver an exceptional
measurement throughput, reducing
test times by a factor of up to 10 when
compared to using conventional test
instrumentation (oscilloscopes, transient recorders, data loggers, etc.) or
VXI based test systems.
Typical applications include tele
communications, LIDAR, radar, auto84 Silicon Chip
motive, chemistry, computing, power
measurement, ultrasonics, mechanics,
physics, military and explosive-weapons and ballistics testing.
This Acqiris’ Cougar 2000 system
uses ultra-fast real-time digitiser
technology and offers four full channels each with 2GS/s sampling rate,
500MHz analog bandwidth and long
(up to 16 Mpoints) acquisition memories. Each channel input has a full
front-end buffer/amplifier that can
handle voltage ranges from 50mV
to 5V full scale, with 50Ω and 1MΩ
input loading, variable offset, internal
calibration (that allows 1% voltage
Mitsubishi’s tiny,
bright LCD projector
The new Mitsubishi LVP-X70U Multimedia LCD data projector might only
weigh 3.2kg but it offers a brightness
of 1100 ANSI lumens.
Distorted images caused by projecting images from the wrong angle have
been eradicated with the projector’s
digital keystone correction system. It
corrects the trapezoid effect within a
range of 15°.
High quality images with clear
definition are achieved with the projector’s “Cineview” line-doubler. It
stores the previous and next-image
fields and processes the signals with
extra motion detection to smooth out
horizontal and vertical lines for finer,
sharper moving images.
Mitsubishi claim the projection of
RGB and YMC colour spectra that are
equal to those of CRTs – and all six colours can be manually adjusted. Other
features include a built-in USB mouse
port, a laser pointer built into the
remote control and a long-life lamp.
Recommended retail price of the
projector is $8900 plus sales tax.
For more information contact Mit
subishi Electric on (02) 9684 7777 or
visit their website at www.mitsubishielectric.com.au
measurements), full input protection
and fast recovery from out-of-range
signals. Underneath the Cougar 2000
are the 1000 and 500 systems which
offer four channels with 1GS/s and
500MS/s sampling rates respectively.
The Cougar systems are housed in
small 6U CompactPCI crate (around
one-third the size of a regular benchtop oscilloscope) and come complete
with all necessary software and a highspeed CompactPCI to PCI interface that
boasts an impressive 100 Mbytes/s
transfer rate.
For more information, contact Acqiris Pty Ltd, phone (03) 9877 9322;
fax (03) 9849 0861; website www.
acqiris.com
Video stabiliser fixes jittery pix!
A recently
released Australian-made
video stabiliser is claimed
to be the best
available, offering features
not found on
any other model.
The VCS2 Stabiliser is made in
Australia by a new designer, Bamb! G
(pronounced Bambi-G) and is the first
in a new range of processors.
It has both S-video and composite
video inputs and outputs allowing
high levels of connectivity. Both outputs are available from either input but
if an S-video and composite video are
connected to the inputs, the composite
video signal takes precedence.
More importantly, though, the device stabilises the video signal and removes any non-standard components
in the signal. Conversion is undertaken
in a “perfect filter” – and one of the
features of this type of filter is that the
output signal is a completely standard,
rock-solid waveform. Any non-standard components of the video signal
which may have
been added along
the way – either
deliberately or
accidentally – are
removed, allowing a great deal
of versatility in
its use.
One application of the stabiliser is with video projectors and the
like which often fail to lock properly
on signals from a DVD player or other
device which has had proprietary components added. When fed through the
VCS2 Stabiliser the signal is returned
to standard video and video projectors
work perfectly.
Similarly, DVD signals can be fed
through the VCS2 Stabiliser and into
a VCR, allowing DVDs to be viewed on
any TV set, not just those with video
and audio inputs.
The Bamb! G VCS2 is currently
available from Questronix, Phone (02)
9477 3596, Fax (02) 9477 3681, with
more information on their website,
www.questronix.com.au Trade enquiries should be directed to Bamb!
G via email: bambi_g<at>bigpond.com
VCR springs ’n’ things from DSE
Every now and then, a product
comes along which makes you
think “finally!” We’re sure service
technicians, developers and even
many hobbyists will think exactly
the same about these VCR hardware assortments from Dick Smith
Electronics.
There are seven packs in the range
covering a myriad of the small parts
needed to repair VCRs (and many
other devices).
You’ll find compression springs,
tension springs, washers and circlips, screws . . . all labelled in handy
trays with see-through lids.
No more searching, no more
sorting to find that elusive spring
or washer!
Cat H-1670 pack contains 246
washers, circlips, springs and
screws and sells for $16.80. The
H-1671 pack has washers and
circlips only, selling for $15.50.
The H-1677 pack contains tension
springs and sells for $19.70 while
the H-1678 pack contains compression springs and also sells for $19.70.
Not shown are various drive belts:
Cat H-6016 contains 14 video drive
belts for $10.75; a set of 11 belts
for turntables (yes, that’s audio
turntables!) selling for $29.40 (Cat
H-6018) and the last pack is a set of
10 cassette player belts selling for
$6.70 (Cat H-6015).
The packs are available through
all Dick Smith Electronics stores
and most dealers, or through the
DSE mail order service or website
(www.dse.com.au).
SMART FASTCHARGERS®
2 NEW MODELS WITH OPTIONS
TO SUIT YOUR NEEDS & BUDGET
Now with 240V AC + 12V DC operation
PLUS fully automatic voltage detection
Use these REFLEX® chargers for all your
Nicads and NIMH batteries: Power tools
Torches Radio equip. Mobile phones
Video cameras Field test instruments
RC models incl. indoor flight Laptops
Photographic equip. Toys Others
Rugged, compact and very portable.
Designed for maximum battery capacity
and longest battery life.
AVOIDS THE WELL KNOWN MEMORY EFFECT.
SAVES MONEY & TIME: Restore most Nicads with
memory effect to capacity. Recover batteries with
very low remaining voltage.
CHARGES VERY FAST plus ELIMINATES THE
NEED TO DISCHARGE: charge standard batteries in
minimum 3 min., max. 1 to 4 hrs, depending on mA/h
rating. Partially empty batteries are just topped up.
Batteries always remain cool; this increases the total
battery life and also the battery’s reliability.
DESIGNED AND MADE IN AUSTRALIA
For a FREE, detailed technical description please
Ph (03) 6492 1368; Fax (03) 6492 1329; or
email smartfastchargers<at>bigpond.com
2567 Wilmot Rd., Devonport, TAS 7310
New Jaycar store for
Nth Queensland
Jaycar Electronics has opened a new
store in Townsville, Qld. Gary Johnston, Managing Director of Jaycar, said
that Jaycar was pleased to be a part of
this major administrative, defence and
education-based city.
The full range of Jaycar products
will be available including components, alarm systems, test equipment,
video surveillance, car audio, electrical and electronic tools, wire, cable
and accessories. “Jaycar is known
for its extensive range of electronic
hobbyist kits and these will also be a
feature of the new Townsville store,”
said Mr Johnston.
The store, employing up to five local staff, is located at 177 Ingham Rd,
West End, Townsville. Phone number
SC
is (07) 4772 5022.
April 2000 85
REFERENCE
GREAT BOOKS FOR
AUDIO POWER AMPLIFIER DESIGN HANDBOOK
NEW
NEW
NEW
NEW
77
95 NEW
$
By Douglas Self. 2nd Edition Published 2000
A uniquely detailed and practical text on the design of audio amplifiers
from one of the world’s most respected audio authorities. The new 2nd
edition is even more comprehensive, includes sections on load-invariant
power amps, distortion residuals, diagnosis of amplifier problems, reactive loads on amplifiers, how to make speakers draw higher currents and
the practical side of variable temperature coefficient bias generators.
368 pages in paperback.
VIDEO SCRAMBLING AND DESCRAMBLING for
SETTING UP A WEB SERVER
If you've ever wondered how they scramble video
on cable and satellite TV, this book tells you! Encoding/decoding systems (analog and digital systems),
encryption, even schematics and details of several
encoder and decoder circuits for experimentation.
Intended for both the hobbyist and the professional.
290 pages in paperback.
NEW 2nd
Covers all major platforms, software, links and
web techniques. It details each step required to
choose, install and configure the hardware and
software elements, create an effective site and
promote it successfully. 273 pages, in paperback.
Satellite & Cable TV by Graf & Sheets
By Simon Collin. Published 1997.
59
$
Edition 1998
TCP/IP EXPLAINED
95
90
Assumes no prior knowledge of TCP/IP, only a
basic understanding of LAN access protocols,
explaining all the elements and alternatives. Combines study questions with reference material.
Examples of network designs and implementations are given. 518 pages, in paperback.
By Tim Williams. First published 1991
(reprinted 1997).
$
59
Includes grounding, printed circuit design and
layout, the characteristics of practical active and
passive components, cables, linear ICs, logic
circuits and their interfaces, power supplies, electromagnetic compatibility, safety and thermal
management.302 pages, in
paperback.
95
LOCAL AREA NETWORKS:
An Introduction to the Technology
ELECTRIC MOTORS AND DRIVES
Want to become more familiar with local area
networks (LANs) without facing the challenge of
a 400-page text? . Gives familiarity with the
concepts involved and provides a start for reading
more detailed texts. 191 pages, in paperback.
For non-specialist users – explores most of
the widely-used modern types of motor and
drive, including conventional and brushless DC,
induction, stepping, synchronous and reluctance
motors. 339 pages, in paperback.
By Austin Hughes. Second edition
published 1993 (reprinted 1997).
By John E. McNamara. 2nd edition 1996.
O
R
D
E
R
H
E
R
E
65
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AUDIO POWER AMPLIFIER DESIGN..................$77.95
VIDEO SCRAMBLING/DESCRAMBLING.............$59.95
TCP/IP EXPLAINED.............................................$90.00
LOCAL AREA NETWORKS..................................$65.00
SETTING UP A WEB SERVER.............................$65.00
THE CIRCUIT DESIGNER’S COMPANION...........$59.95
ELECTRIC MOTORS AND DRIVES......................$59.95
UNDERSTANDING TELEPHONE ELECTRONICS....$55.00
AUDIO ELECTRONICS........................................$79.00
GUIDE TO TV & VIDEO TECHNOLOGY...............$55.00
EMC FOR PRODUCT DESIGNERS.......................$95.00
THE ART OF LINEAR ELECTRONICS..................$80.00
INTERNET HOME PAGES MADE SIMPLE...........$24.95
DIGITAL ELECTRONICS .....................................$59.95
ESSENTIAL LINUX..............................................$85.00
ORDER TOTAL: $.............
86 Silicon Chip
65
$
THE CIRCUIT DESIGNER’S COMPANION
By Philip Miller. Published 1997.
$
NEW
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5995
$
Your Name_________________________________________________
PLEASE PRINT
Address ___________________________________________________
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Daytime Phone No. (______) __________________________________
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PLUS P&P (if applic.): $..............
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ALL TITLES SUBJECT TO AVAILABILITY. PRICES VALID FOR MONTH OF MAGAZINE ISSUE ONLY.
BOOKSHOP
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SILICON CHIP SUBSCRIBERS
AUTOMATICALLY QUALIFY FOR A 10%
DISCOUNT ON ALL BOOK PURCHASES!
ENQUIRING MINDS!
(To subscribe, see page 65)
UNDERSTANDING TELEPHONE ELECTRONICS
THE ART OF LINEAR ELECTRONICS
By Stephen J. Bigelow.
Third edition published 1997 by Butterworth-Heinemann.
$
By John Linsley Hood. First published
1993. NEW SECOND EDITION 1998.
A very useful text for anyone wanting to
become familiar with the basics of telephone
technology. The 10 chapters explore telephone fundamentals, speech signal processing, telephone line interfacing, tone and pulse
generation, ringers, digital transmission
techniques (modems & fax machines) and
much more. Ideal for students. 367 pages,
in soft cover at $55.00.
55
80
DESIGNING INTERNET HOME PAGES
MADE SIMPLE
AUDIO ELECTRONICS
By John Linsley Hood. First published 1995.
Second edition 1999.
This book is for anyone involved in designing,
adapting and using analog and digital audio equipment. It covers tape recording, tuners and radio
receivers, preamplifiers, voltage amplifiers, audio
power amplifiers, compact disc technology and
digital audio, test and measurement, loudspeaker
crossover systems, power supplies and noise
reduction systems. 375 pages in soft cover at
$79.00.
$
By Lilian Hobbs. First published 1996.
Second edition 1999.
All you need to get started. Create and design
your own Internet home pages that include
both text and graphics, using this practical,
easy to follow, jargon free guide. This edition
has been enhanced and updated and now
covers HTML 4.0. 182 pages, in paperback,
at $24.95.
79
$
GUIDE TO TV & VIDEO
TECHNOLOGY
Eugene Trundle has written for many years in
Television magazine and his latest book is right
up to date on TV and video technology. The book
includes both theory and practical servicing
information and is ideal for both students and
technicians. 382 pages, in paperback, at $55.00.
55
EMC FOR PRODUCT
DESIGNERS
By Richard Monk. Published 1998.
59
95
By Steve Heath. Published 1997.
Widely regarded as the standard text on EMC,
this book provides all the information necessary
to meet the requirements of the EMC Directive.
It includes chapters on standards, measurement techniques and design principles, including layout and grounding, digital and analog
circuit design, filtering and shielding and
interference sources. The four appendices
give a design checklist and include useful tables,
data and formulae. 299 pages, in soft cover at $95.00.
95
$
P&P
$
With this book you can learn the principles and
practice of digital electronics without leaving your
desk, through the popular simulation applications,
EASY-PC Pro XM and Pulsar. Alternatively, if you
want to discover the applications through a thoroughly practical exploration of digital electronics,
this is the book for you. A free floppy disk is
included, featuring limited function versions
of EASY-PC Professional XM and Pulsar. 249
pages, in paperback, at $59.95.
ESSENTIAL LINUX
By Tim Williams. First
published 1992. Second edition 1996.
Add $A5.00 per book –
Orders over $100 P&P free in Australia.
NZ: Add $A10 per book, $A15 elsewhere
24 95
$
DIGITAL ELECTRONICS –
A PRACTICAL APPROACH
By Eugene Trundle. First published 1988.
Second edition 1996.
$
This practical handbook from one of the
world’s most prolific audio designers has
been updated and amended to make it the
leading practical source of information for
those interested in linear electronics and
its applications, particularly in the world of
audio design. 348 pages, in paperback, at
$80.00.
Provides all the information and software that
is necessary for a PC user to install and use the
freeware Linux operating system. It details,
setp-by-step, how to obtain and configure the
operating system and utilities. It also explains
all of the key commands. The text is generously
illustrated with screen shots and examples
that show how the commands work. Includes
a CD-ROM containing Linux version 1.3 and
including all the interim updates, basic utilities
and compilers with their associated documentation. 257 pages, in paperback, at $85.00.
85
$
POST TO: SILICON CHIP Publications, PO Box 139, Collaroy NSW, Australia 2097.
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April 2000 87
ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Write to: Ask Silicon Chip, PO Box 139, Collaroy Beach, NSW 2097.
Tacho regulator
burnout
A friend of mine recently bought
his second Digital Tachometer which
I think was in SILICON CHIP. The
first one he tried he fried and on this
second one he burnt out the voltage
regulator. For some reason it was getting too hot so I replaced it and put a
heatsink on it.
I tested it on a power pack set to
12V and the three zeros flashed up
and all the voltages tested out OK,
so we tried it on his car. He assured
me it was calibrated. It worked once.
The second time we tried we got
8000 revs without the engine running.
So I set it up with the power pack
again and it showed 8000.
He is really annoyed because he
has paid a total of $60. What could be
wrong? (Damien, via email).
• Without really knowing, we assume
that you are referring to the 4-Digit
Tachometer published in the August
1994 issue.
The regulator should not burn out as
these are short circuit proof. Perhaps
there is a short circuit on the PC board
somewhere causing the regulator to
overheat. Also the short could be
causing the display to show an “8” if
FM Mini-mitter
misbehaviour
I have purchased and built
three of the FM Mini-mitter kits
(SILICON CHIP, October 1988) over
the past 10 years, along with one
Baby-minder. Most have been successful, bar this and the previous
one. The previous problem was a
centre frequency off the FM band
and was solved by increasing the
47pF capacitor on pin 10 to 59pF.
Now I’ve built the third unit. It
delivers a stronger signal than the
others but does not trigger the stereo lock on receivers. I’ve checked
that the capacitor on pin 12 is
88 Silicon Chip
there is a connection between the “g”
segment and another segment on the
most significant display.
How to charge
lithium ion batteries
I have just built the Multipurpose
Fast Charger from the February &
March 1998 issues of SILICON CHIP
and it works well. Now how can I get
it to charge li-ion batteries which are
popular in phones and cameras? (N.
S., via email).
• We published information on using
the charger with li-ion batteries in the
Circuit Notebook pages of the June
1998 issue. We can supply the back
issue for $7 including postage
Cordless phone
backup battery project
I’m keen to build the backup battery unit described in the October
1999 issue, for my new Panasonic
cordless phone. The plugpack is nominally 13.5V but is actually putting
out 22.5V. The base station handset
charger puts out 8.75V (no load) with
a 3.5V NiMH battery in the handset.
I’m unsure how to set up the LM317
to achieve an output equivalent to
.001µF as per the errata. I’ve also
checked the components around
the mixer (pins 12, 13 & 14). Also,
there are about five points on the
receiver dial around the best signal
where a reasonable signal is heard.
This leads me to suspect that I
may be receiving a harmonic of
the main signal and that the centre
frequency is again off the band. I
tried increasing the 47pF capacitor
in the main oscillator to 59pF by
adding a 12pF in parallel. This only
gave about 10MHz shift. Can you
suggest steps for further diagnosis?
I have no CRO. (J. C., via email).
• You are probably correct in assuming that the receiver is locked
the existing plugpack. The R1 and R2
values in the article are all for lower
voltages. What values should I use?
(G. T., via email).
• As far as we can see there is no
simple solution to your problem since
the plugpack output is a great deal
higher than a 12V SLA battery.
Reluctor problem with
Multi-spark CDI
I have just put together the Multis-park Capacitor Discharge Ignition
as published in the September 1997
issue of SILICON CHIP and I have come
across some problems. There is no
output from the coil (standard type)
and the transformer I wound makes a
buzzing sound.
Here are the DC voltages I measured
(all taken from left to right (Q1 on
the left) looking down on the devices
bolted to the heatsink):
Q1 – 9.5V, 12.3V, 15.5mV.
Q2 – 1.4V, 12.1V, 17.1mV.
Q6 – 13.8V, 298.3V, 14.1V.
Q7 – 9.4mV, 14.2V, 9.1mV.
IC1 – pin 1 8.3V, pin 2 8.0V, pin 3 0.9V,
pin 4 14.7V, pin 5 1.5V, pin 6 15.7mV,
pin 7 8.12V, pin 8 8.3V.
IC2 – pin 1 15.3V, pin 2 22.2V, pin 3
12.5V, pin 4 9.1mV, pin 5 9.1mV, pin
onto a harmonic. Try carefully
tuning across the FM band with
the receiver well away from the
transmitter. You will find several
spots where the signal is received.
Select the one which gives stereo.
If you cannot find any other
positions on the receiver, then try
retuning the transmitter to another
frequency and try again.
Another possible problem with
lack of stereo reception concerns
the 38kHz crystal. In the past
some kits were supplied with
40kHz types by mistake. If you do
not have any means of checking
this frequency, try another crystal
(38kHz).
6 13.2V, pin 7 13.2V and pin 8 15.1V.
The current draw without the coil
is about 3.04A. The ignition pickup
is a standard magnet/reluctor from a
late-model Chrysler 360 engine. (M.
K., via email).
• The 300VDC supply is being correctly produced by your cir
cuit as
there is 298V at the drain of Q6. This
means that all the circuitry, including
IC1 and Mosfets Q1 & Q2, is operating
correctly. It is normal for the transformer to buzz as it is switched on
and off to maintain regulation. We
assume that the 14.7V at pin 4 of IC1
is actually 14.7mV as it should be
close to zero.
It would seem likely that your problem is in the reluctor pickup circuit.
Check that ZD5 has 5.1V across it
and that you have the correct value
resistors inserted. You can simulate
firing the coil by connecting a momentary short between collector and
emitter of Q8. Alternatively, connect
a momentary short between chassis
and the anode of diode D12.
The coil should give a spark provided that there is a pathway from
the high tension output to ground. To
provide that, insert a paper clip into
the coil’s high tension output and
bend it so that there is about a 2mm
gap to the coil’s negative terminal. We
do not recommend having an open
circuit high tension output (no spark
pathway) as the coil may break down
internally.
Revised software
for Speed Alarm
I have constructed the Speed Alarm
as published in the November &
December 1999 issues and it is great
other than the 159km/h limit on the
speedometer. I take my car out on
the track occasionally and would
like to use it to check the accuracy
of my speedo at 200+ km/h and the
888 display isn’t really of great help.
Have you written any software for the
PIC that can accomplish this? (B. C.
via email).
• We have now revised the software
so that it allows the speedometer to
operate up to 254km/h. Speeds above
254km/h will be displayed as 888 to
indicate overrange. The speed alarm
feature can now be incremented in
5km/h steps from 0 to 255km/h. The
255km/h setting will prevent alarm
operation for speeds up to 254km/h.
LED ammeter has high
earth strap resistance
I built the LED Ammeter (SILICON
CHIP, January 1999) which uses the
earth strap voltage to display current status. I can’t fault the theory
behind it but I can’t get it to work
properly.
On the bench it works perfectly
using the testing method set out in
the instructions, In the car I turn
VR1 fully anticlockwise and adjust
VR2 for the green and yellow LEDs.
I then turn on the parking lights and
try to adjust VR1 so that the yellow
LED is on. This is where it all goes
out the window be
cause when
you adjust VR1 it immediately
progresses up the red LEDs; ie, the
wrong way.
I thought the circuit must have
too much gain but looking at the
input circuit (IC1a) it only has a
gain of 10. So I changed the 10kΩ
The hysteresis between the alarm
switching on and switching off is
now 1km/h rather than the previous
1.25km/h.
Options such as repeat alarm and
upper and lower alarm threshold selection as well as speedometer disable
are still available. The calibration
procedure remains the same.
The revised software is called
SPEED254.ASM and SPEED254.HEX
and is available for download from our
website at www.siliconchip.com.au
Electronic house number
with large LED displays
Has SILICON CHIP ever published a
circuit for an electronic house num
ber? Something along the lines of a
rechargeable battery powered circuit
would be good, using those large
70mm LED displays, either flashing
or stable. The circuit would come on
automatically at night and the battery
could then be charged by solar cells
during the day. Is there any plan for
such a project? It doesn’t sound too
complicated. (P. L., via email).
• We published a “LED light House
Number” in the October 1988 issue.
It could be adapted to 70mm displays
without problems. It was powered
from a plugpack but could be run from
feedback resistor to 5kΩ and it
worked better but still adjusting
VR1 is of no use at all and turning
on the headlights sends the meter
off the scale.
My vehicle has an extremely
short earth lead of about 10cm but
I thought this would mean that we
would just need more gain, not
less. I then swapped the two leads
across the earth lead around and it
did adjust up in the exact opposite
way. Is there anything I can do to
make this work? (K. S., via email).
• Possibly the short earth strap in
your vehicle has a higher impedance than the design allows for. This
would mean you need less gain and
the value for VR1 is way too large.
Try using a link for the 10kΩ resistor
at pin 2 of IC1a and change VR1 to
a 22kΩ trimpot.
Alternatively, you could try increasing the input resistor from 1kΩ
to 10kΩ to reduce the gain.
a solar charged battery. We can supply
a photostat copy of the article for $7
including postage.
Pro-Logic surround
sound decoder
I built the Prologic Surround Sound
Decoder published in the November &
December 1995 issues of SILICON CHIP
and I have a weird fault.
The processor seems to be switching between two modes all on its own.
Hooking up a CD player into the 5200
and then some speakers out through
the surround terminals, you would
hear the CD playing for a few seconds
and then it would seemingly switch
into another mode.
The switching is pretty obvious, as
it is louder and clearer in one of the
modes. The processor will stay in
each mode the same length of time
before clicking into the other. What
do you suspect may be the problem
and what are your suggestions? (M.
L., via email).
• The mode changing problem in
your Prologic Decoder does seem to
be a strange fault. You do not say at
what rate the mode changes from one
to another. At this stage we can only
assume that it at the noise sequencer
rate.
April 2000 89
Fence tester
only works at night
I recently built the Fence Voltage
Tester (SILICON CHIP, May 1999)
which I purchased from Dick Smith
Electronics. It works perfectly but
there is one drawback. I finished
building it at night and I wanted to
test it out straight away. So I went
and tested it out on one of our
fences and for some unexplained
reason you can only see the neon
light flashing when there is a light
source present.
When you take that source away
and it is pitch black, the neon light
either does not work or is not visible. I tested out my theory with a
torch and also with a light globe
inside a shed and I found the same
result.
I am puzzled at this and would
Check that the pushbutton switches
(S5, S6 & S7) are not sticking on when
pressed. Also check the mode switch
S4b. The wiper of S4a will connect pin
31 of IC1 to 4V when in the surround
mode and to 0V when in stereo mode.
S4b should apply 5V to pin 33 of IC6
when in surround mode and 0V when
in 3-stereo or stereo mode.
Finally, check the wiring between
processor IC6 and IC1, particularly
the noise test inputs at pins 23, 24 &
25 of IC1.
Connecting a ceramic
phono cartridge
Is the auxiliary (AUX) input on a
modern audio amplifier suitable for
the direct connection of a ceramic
cartridge (for playing 78 rpm records)
or is some additional circuitry advantageous or necessary? (L.B., Aspley,
Qld).
• Depending on the output of the particular cartridge and your amplifier’s
gain, it may be possible to use the AUX
input, provided each channel of the
cartridge is shunted with a capacitor
of say 470-1000pF to improve the bass
response. This would be a “quick and
dirty” connection which may be good
enough.
However, it is more likely that you
will need a high impedance preamplifier with a gain of around 5 or so.
90 Silicon Chip
appreciate it greatly if you explain
it. (T. H., via email).
• It turns out that since the high
voltage pulses are so short, they
are not enough to cause the tester
to light up in total darkness. It
actually needs the extra photons
from daylight (or from your torch)
for the neon gas to break down and
discharge!
Apparently, there is a similar
problem in gas arrestors used for
transient voltage protection. These
devices have a relatively long response time and will not work with
very short spikes. Some manufacturers incorporate a small amount
of radon gas (a radioactive emitter)
in the gas arrestors to improve their
response times.
Anyway, the circuit does work
but only if there is some ambient
light!
To give good bass, typical ceramic
cartridges need an input impedance of
at least 2MΩ. It would be possible to
produce a suitable stereo preamplifier
using a dual low-noise FET-input op
amp such as a TL072.
Audio signal generator
amplitude problem
I have completed constructing the
Audio Signal Generator from the
February & March 1999 issues and it
appears to be working, at least as far
as my frequency counter and milli
voltmeter can tell. However, without
being “picky”, I do have some ques
tions regarding its setting up.
(1) Should VR4’s setting be critical?
For mid-frequencies, the display either locks or it doesn’t. However, if
VR4 is set for reliable operation on
the highest frequency range (>50kHz)
then for the lowest frequency range
(<20Hz) it needs to be readjusted so
that the display reads correctly; but
then the display doesn’t lock on the
highest frequency range.
On the three highest ranges, frequency coverage is a multiple of
about 77-106Hz (this after adding a
0.82µF capacitor to pin 2 of the 555).
However, I cannot get the lowest
range to work/display reliably below
about 20Hz.
Below 20Hz my millivoltmeter in-
dicates a slightly rising low frequency
output but the display shows all zeros.
Adjusting VR4 will restore the display
but then I have problems at the highest
end of the high frequency range (as
mentioned).
(2) The amplitude of the output
signal rises as frequency decreases; in
fact, at 20Hz it is up by about 2-3dB
compared to 1kHz. Attempting to adjust VR3 either kills the low frequency
oscillation or allows the circuit to oscillate supersonically (the AC output
hits 10V on the millivoltmeter).
For stability (25Hz and up), trimpot
VR3 is hard clockwise.
(3) Using a digital frequency meter,
I had to add a .082µF capacitor to pin
2 of the 555 timer to get the display
to read within 5% of the frequency.
Would you expect to need this amount
of capacitance increase?
I have checked component values
and the DC voltages are all within
spec. Incidentally, for the benefit of
other constructors, my kit failed to
function at switch-on because a track
on the PC board was missing; it was
the +5V supply to IC3 pin 11. (N. H.,
via email).
• You cannot expect to obtain a flat
response if the oscillator is not set up
to operate over all the ranges. Some
constructors of the Jaycar kits have
needed to change the 12kΩ resistor
connecting to LDR1 to a 560kΩ resistor with a .0047µF capacitor placed
in parallel with it. This will allow the
oscillator to be set up to oscillate over
the full frequency range.
VR4 will be critical to set if the
output level does vary with frequency. Once you can set the oscillator
correctly, this adjustment will be less
critical.
The capacitance change at pin 2
of IC11 to obtain a satisfactory frequency accuracy does seem extreme.
Perhaps the original values are out
of tolerance.
VHF PAL
demodulator circuit
Have you published an RF VHF
PAL demodulator circuit or project
in SILICON CHIP? What I need is to
convert a VHF signal in RF mode back
to composite and/or S-video (Super
VHS) output(s) so that they can be
connected to a video camera for recording. Video cameras do not have
a TV tuner built in. S-video output is
not important; composite video output is mandatory. (M. O., via email).
• We have not published a VHF
PAL demodulator. In fact, what you
are asking for is virtually a complete
TV set front end. Have you thought
about using a VCR to do the job? Even
a machine in which the transport is
no longer working could be used for
your job.
TVI caused by
FM receiver
Last year I became a listener to ‘tube
radio’ in my home. The FM stereo
decoder is solid-state, from Studio12
in
. Wales UK. The receiver is a modified and realigned Kenwood W8, a
stereo valved receiver, originally only
‘mono’ on FM, from the 1960s.
The problem is as follows: when I’m
listening to just one FM stereo station,
on 102.3MHz, I get TVI (interference)
on one VHF TV channel (TEN, picture centred on 182.258MHz) and on
one UHF channel (UHF 31 picture
548.25MHz). Note that the FM stereo
sound via the Kenwood on this station
remains excellent, notwithstanding
the RFI it is generating.
The interference disappears if I
disconnect the antenna lead from
the Kenwood to the wall outlet. It
is a “shot-silk” effect, very like FM
transmitter sourced interference as
pictured in various books on this
subject. The tuner does not have this
effect on any other local FM station.
It seems to be the local oscillator
in the stereo tuner, not the IF in the
TV receiver. The tuned frequency is
102.3MHz and with an IF of 10.7MHz
the local oscillator is 91.6MHz; its
second harmonic = 183.2MHz, slap
in the middle of VHF10 and the 5th
harmonic is slap in the middle of
UHF 31.
A friend of mine says that the
strength of the station is probably
irrelevant and I’ve since confirmed
this, at least with a variable attenuator.
That particular frequency, 102.3MHz
or very nearly, may be triggering some
resonances somewhere in ‘my’ circuit.
So is there really a resonant problem with the local oscillator when
tuned at or near 102.3MHz?
The following actions are possible. I
could use separate FM cables from the
TV cables, use two separate splitters
and use single rather than combined
wall-plates everywhere. Apart from
Parking radar has
low sensitivity
I have built the Ultrasonic Parking Radar kit (SILICON CHIP, February 2000) with mixed results. I find
the unit has low sensitivity due to
the hysteresis on pins 12 and 13 of
IC1d. This gate switches from high
to low when the voltage on its input
pins reaches 3.8V but will not turn
off again until the voltage drops
back to 2.5V. The result is very low
sensitivity with poor long-range
detection.
Also, the LED on the output
refuses to conduct with the values
shown in circuit. Q3 switches OK
but does not fully saturate. Also,
I am only getting 5.7V across the
zener diode instead of 6.2V. I cannot make out the zener numbers
and it may be an incorrect zener as
supplied in the kit. Any ideas? (B.
C., via email).
• The sensitivity of the radar is set
by VR1 rather than the hysteresis
of IC1d.
You can obtain more range by
separating the ultrasonic transduc-
the extra expense, the disadvantages
of this solution are having to crawl
about under the house and get up on
the roof and lastly, it doesn’t actually
fix the RFI/TVI near the source.
Alternatively, I could get someone
skilled in the art to fiddle with the
operating characteristics of the valve
tuner. Unless it is radiating from the
tuning gang, extra HT bypasses might
help.
I could also filter the harmonics
from the FM stage so it doesn’t go back
up the coax to the splitter, without affecting the signal strength going in; ie,
a steep low-pass from about 109MHz
up into the UHF band to 600MHz.
Maybe Kingray could help here. What
do you think? (T. B., via email).
• We doubt very much that you
can easily suppress the harmonic
radiation from your tuner’s local oscillator. Valve local oscillators had a
much stronger signal than transistor
oscillators and they didn’t have a
clean waveform; ie, harmonics were
present.
In fact, it is doubtful whether
the designers actually ever saw the
ers as described on pages 40 and 41
and increasing the value of VR1.
To some extent the gain is set by
adjustment of VR2 which sets the
threshold trigger point for IC1d. Set
this too high, however, and IC1d
will remain triggered (output low)
as its lower input threshold will
never be reached.
Perhaps your low sensitivity
is due to the low supply voltage.
You would expect the LED to light
when powered from 12V and 2.2kΩ
resistor even if Q3 does not fully
saturate. Check that the LED is inserted the right way around on the
PC board. You could reduce this
value to 1kΩ for more brightness
if you want.
A 6.2V 400mW zener will probably be marked as 1N753A while a
5.6V zener will be marked 1N752.
You can check the zener by placing
it in series with a 2.2kΩ resistor
across a 12V supply. Measure
the zener voltage with a meter. If
the zener voltage is OK, you may
need to supply it with a little more
current in the radar circuit. Try
reducing R8 to 390Ω.
waveform on an oscilloscope since
that would have required scopes with
bandwidth out to beyond 200MHz –
such scopes probably did not exist
when your tuner was designed. Even
today, with a good scope you might
have great trouble improving the
oscillator’s waveform sufficiently to
remove harmonic interference.
Our first suggestion is to try the
separate splitter approach and if that
doesn’t work, an approach to Kingray
might be the only solution.
Spring reverb unit
has phase reversal
I have purchased and assembled the
Spring Reverb unit described in the
January 2000 issue of SILICON CHIP. I
have achieved successful reverberation but now have a polarity reverse/
out of phase problem with respect
to the input source. All connections
seem correct. Do you have any suggestion to solve my dilemma? (A. C.,
via email).
• The Spring Reverb module does
invert the signal at IC2b which is an
April 2000 91
Spring reverb
frequency response
I recently constructed the Spring
Reverb kit for use with an electric
guitar. The construction and electrical testing of the unit seemed to
go pretty much by the book. However, I found that when it came to
a comparison between plugging directly into the guitar amplifier and
plugging in via the reverb unit, I did
notice an appreciable attenuation
of top end frequencies, although I
was quite happy with the quality
of the reverb effect itself for a unit
in this price range, .
I realise that this is not a highend professional unit but am
wondering whether this is an idiosyncrasy of the circuit itself or
maybe I’ve missed some detail in
the construction. Any ideas? (C.
M., via email).
• The frequency response of the
reverb signal is limited to 5kHz, as
detailed in the specifications panel
inverting mixer stage. You would need
to add another inverting stage at the
output to return the phase to the same
as the original input.
However, the phase inversion of the
signal by the spring reverb should not
present any problems. In fact many
amplifiers invert the signal, as do
mixers and preamplifiers.
Increasing the turbo
timer period
I have just bought a Turbo Timer kit
from Jaycar (SILICON CHIP, November 1998). Could you tell me how to
on page 32 of the January 2000 issue. The response of the undelayed
signal is up to 19kHz which should
be more than adequate. Without too
much reverb, the overall response
will be dominated by the 19kHz
bandwidth.
If you find the high frequency
end is dropping off without much
reverb being mixed into the signal,
you have possibly used an incorrect capacitor value across one of
the feedback resis
tors. Check in
particular the capacitor between
pins 1 & 2 of IC2b. It should be
33pF. The capacitor will either
be marked as 33 or 33p. Also the
capacitor across VR1 should be
.0039µF (3n9 or 392 on the capacitor).
There is no point in trying to
increase the frequency re
sponse
of the reverb signal itself as the
response of the spring unit is
limited anyway; any increase in
bandwidth would just increase the
residual noise.
modify it so that it makes my car idle
longer, or even make it adjustable
like the really expensive ones? (I. B.,
via email).
• You can change the idle period by
altering either the 220µF capacitor at
pin 6 of IC1 or the 390kΩ resistor. Increasing either value will extend the
period and reducing it will shorten
the idle time. The capacitor should
not be increased much past 1000µF
in value while the resistor should
be in the range from say 10kΩ up
to 1MΩ.
If you want to make it adjustable,
you could use a 1MΩ potentiometer
in series with a 10kΩ resistor, in place
of the 390kΩ resistor.
Query on cordless
phone backup
In the article entitled “Backup
Battery for cordless phones” from the
October 1999 issue of SILICON CHIP
you have shown the charging circuit
as simply being a diode and a 100Ω
resistor. Would this be OK if the unit
is working 24 hours a day; ie, charging
the SLA battery continuously?
I thought that SLA batteries should
be charged gradually and when they
reach full charge, the charger switches
to trickle charge. I understand that
the 100Ω resistor provides that trickle
charge continuously. Isn’t that damaging to the SLA battery? It would take
quite a while to initially charge the
SLA, wouldn’t it? (O. N.)
• It is OK to trickle charge an SLA
battery and that is what this circuit
does. Yes, it would be a good idea to
have the battery fully charged before
installing it in the circuit.
Plastic stereo power
amplifier wanted
I like the 175W amplifier modules
described in the April 1996 issue. Can
I use two modules to a make a stereo
amplifier? How do I go about it? (T.
W., via email).
• You would need to use the suggested power supply circuit on page
28 of the April 1996 article but with
a 300VA transformer. The modules
would need to wired up in the same
sort of layout as we used for the stereo power amplifier featured in the
February 1988 issue. We can send
you a photocopy of this article for $7
SC
including postage.
WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage. All such
projects should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely. Readers are warned that high voltage wiring should be
carried out according to the instructions in the articles. When working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do
not accidentally come into contact with mains AC voltages or high voltage DC. If you are not confident about working with projects
employing mains voltages or other high voltages, you are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd
disclaims any liability for damages should anyone be killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue of
SILICON CHIP magazine. Devices or circuits described in SILICON CHIP may be covered by patents. SILICON CHIP disclaims any
liability for the infringement of such patents by the manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also disclaims
any liability for projects which are used in such a way as to infringe relevant government regulations and by-laws.
Advertisers are warned that they are responsible for the content of all advertisements and that they must conform to the Trade
Practices Act 1974 or as subsequently amended and to any governmental regulations which are applicable.
92 Silicon Chip
Own an EFI car?
Want to get the
best from it?
Youll find all you
need to know in
this publication
April 2000 93
MARKET CENTRE
Cash in your surplus gear. Advertise it here in Silicon Chip.
FRWEEBE
YES!
Place your classified advertisement in
SILICON CHIP Market Centre and your
advert will also appear FREE in the
Classifieds-on-the-Web page of the
SILICON CHIP website,
www.siliconchip.com.au
And if you include an email address or
your website URL in you classified advert, the
links will be LIVE in your classified-on-the-web!
S!
D
E
I
F
I
S
C LAS
EXCLUSIVE TO SILICON CHIP!
CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING RATES
Advertising rates for this page: Classified ads: $11.00 (incl. GST) for up to 12
words plus 55 cents for each additional word. Display ads: $27.50 (incl. GST) per
column centimetre (max. 10cm). Closing date: five weeks prior to month of sale.
To run your classified ad, print it clearly in the space below or on a separate
sheet of paper, fill out the form & send it with your cheque or credit card details
to: Silicon Chip Classifieds, PO Box 139, Collaroy, NSW 2097. Or fax the details
to (02) 9979 6503.
Taxation Invoice ABN 49 003 205 490
_____________ _____________ _____________ _____________ _____________
_____________ _____________ _____________ _____________ _____________
_____________ _____________ _____________ _____________ _____________
_____________ _____________ _____________ _____________ _____________
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FOR SALE
ELECTRONIC/MECHANICAL DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION: we offer
a complete design service for electronic
and mechanical devices. Most work is
done in house and you deal directly with
the designers. No job is too small and
can be to prototype or “turn key” stage,
in one offs or for future production.
Simply send us an email at vladimir<at>
u030.aone.net.au with your questions
or requirements and we will get back
to you.
PC-CONTROLS: Receiver 144148MHz (PLL), 2GHz Frequency Meter, Temperature Recorder (DS1615),
Audio Generators, I/O Cards, Data
Logging, ActiveX. http://www.ar.com.
au/~softmark
RAIN BRAIN AND DIGI-TEMP KITS: 8
station sprinkler controllers, 60 channel
temp monitor uses DS1820s over 500
metres. Has PC Data logging. Mantis
Micro Products,
http://www.home.aone.net.au/mantismp
WEATHER STATIONS: Windspeed &
direction, inside temperature, outside
temperature & windchill. Records highs
& lows with time and date as they occur.
$420.00 complete plus sales tax if appli
cable. Optional rainfall and PC interface.
Used by Government Departments,
farmers, pilots, and weather enthusiasts.
Other models with barometric pressure,
Enclosed is my cheque/money order for $__________ or please debit my
❏ Bankcard ❏
Visa Card ❏ Master Card
Card No.
Signature ________________________ Card expiry date______/______
Name _____________________________________________________
Street _____________________________________________________
Suburb/town _________________________ Postcode______________
94 Silicon Chip
Circuit Ideas Wanted
Do you have a good circuit idea.
If so, sketch it out, write a brief
description of its operation &
send it to us. Provided your idea is
workable & original, we’ll publish it
in Circuit Notebook & you’ll make
some money.
We pay up to $60 for a good circuit
so send your idea to:
Silicon Chip Publications, PO
Box 139, Collaroy, 2097.
humidity, dew point, solar radiation, UV,
leaf wetness, etc. Just phone, fax or
write for our FREE catalogue and price
list. Solar Flair/Ecowatch ph: (03) 5968
4863 fax: (03) 5968 5810, PO Box 18,
Emerald, Vic., 3782. ACN 006 399 480.
HI-RES better than SUPER-VHS
Quality QUADS 4 Pix 1 screen from
$208 * DOME CAMERAS from $88
- SONY CCD $107 - COLOUR $164
* Video BALUNS from $7 * DIY PAKS
4 Cameras, Switcher & Supply from
$461 with 12" Monitor from $575 *
4 COLOUR CAMERAS, SWITCHER
& POWER SUPPLY from $769 - with
COLOUR QUAD 4 Pix 1 Screen from
$1168 * COLOUR QUADS from $474
* COLOUR DUPLEX MUX from $1329
* 14" MONITORS from $203 - with
Inbuilt 4 Ch SWITCHER from $236 *
SEE-in-the-DARK CAMERAS & INFRARED 120 mW LED ILLUMINATOR Kits
from $19 * COVERT Camera in PIR
or Smoke Detector case from $94 *
FREE PC VIDEO RECORDER - TIME
LAPSE - MOTION DETECTION Software with 4 Ch Capture Card from $113 *
Video Transmitter KitSets & Systems
from $142 * Camera, Microphone &
Timer/Controller in PIR DETECTOR
from $129 * BULLET 480 Line 0.05
lux SONY CCD or DSP COLOUR
from $132 * PCB Modules from $76
COLOUR Pinhole from $155 * MINI
CAMERAS 36 x 36 from $85 - SONY
CCD $102 - COLOUR $162
www.allthings.com.au * 08 9349 9413
C COMPILERS: everything you need
to develop C and ASM software for
68HC08, 6809, 68HC11, 68HC12, 68
HC16, 8051/52, 8080/85, 8086, 8096
or AVR: $155.00 each. Macro Cross
Assemblers and Disassemblers for
above CPUs + 6800/01/03/05, 6502
and 68HC12 for $78. Debug monitors:
$78 for 6 CPUs. All compilers, XASMs
and monitors: $480. 8051/52 Simulator
(fast, now incl. 80C320): $78. Try the
C-FLEA Virtual Machine for small CPUs,
build a “C-Stamp”. Demo desk: FREE.
All prices + $5 p&p.
Atmel Flash CPU Programmer: Handles the 89Cx051, 89C5x and 89Sxx
series, and the new AVRs in both DIP
and PLCC44. Also does most 8-pin
EEPROMs. Includes socket for serial
ISP cable. $199, $37 tax, $10 p&p.
SOIC adaptors: 20-pin $90, 14-pin
$85, 8-pin $80. Credit cards accepted.
GRANTRONICS PTY LTD, PO Box 275,
Wentworthville 2145. Ph (02) 9896 7150;
ROLA Australia (08) 8270 3175
www.bettanet.net.au/GTD
Silvertone’s RC Receiver
Still the best little performer available!
MP3-CD Player: $699
Plays standard CDs & MP3s
as well.
Plays MP3 CDs made with a
CD writer.
Up to 2200 songs per CD.
Car adapter available.
ROLA 15U & 15UX: $325
Size: 15" (380mm).
Freqency response: 30-3,000Hz
(15U); 30-12,000Hz (15UX).
Power handling: 250 watts RMS.
SPL: 97db/1 metre.
FS (resonant frequency) 30Hz.
Satellite TV Reception
International satellite TV reception in
your home is now
affordable. Send for
your free info pack
containing equipment
catalog, satellite lists, etc or call for
appointment to view. We can display
all satellites from 76.5° to 180°.
Still only $129.50 AM or $149.50 FM.
May be used with most ppm transmitters. This and many other radio control
products available from:
Silvertone Electronics, PO Box 580,
Riverwood 2210.
Phone/Fax (02) 9533 3517.
www.silvertone.com.au
AV-COMM P/L, 24/9 Powells Rd,
Brookvale, NSW 2100.
Tel: 02 9939 4377 or 9939 4378.
Fax: 9939 4376; www.avcomm.com.au
Need prototype PC boards?
We have the solutions – we print electronics!
Four-day turnaround, less if urgent; Artwork from your own
positive or file; Through hole plating; Prompt postal service; 29
years technical experience; Inexpensive; Superb quality.
Printed Electronics, 12A Aristoc Rd,
Glen Waverley, Vic 3150.
Phone: (03) 9545 3722; Fax: (03) 9545 3561
Call Mike Lynch and check us out!
We are the best for low cost, small runs.
Fax (02) 9631 1236; or Internet:
http://www.grantronics.com.au
SOLAR PANELS: 120 watt $995.00,
80 watt $650.00, 60 watt $510.00, 40
watt $395.00 (all with 25 year guarantee). UNBREAKABLE PANELS:
64 watt $550.00, 42 watt $420.00,
32 watt $340.00, 11 watt $190.00, 5
watt $120.00, 1.25 watt $80.00. WIND
GENERATORS: 400 watt $950.00.
INVERTERS: sinewave inverters, inverter/chargers, mod. Sinewave inverters,
call with requirements. AUSTRALIA
WIDE DELIVERY (Free on orders over
$500.00). TASMAN ENERGY: (03)
6362 3050 Fax (03) 6362 3054.
TELEPHONE EXCHANGE SIMULATOR, SC February 1998. Test equipment without the cost of telephone lines.
Melbourne 9806 0110.
KITS KITS AND MORE KITS! Check
‘em out at www.ozitronics.com
Positions At Jaycar
We are often looking for enthusiastic staff
for positions in our retail stores and head
office at Rhodes in Sydney. A genuine
interest in electronics is a necessity. Phone
02 9743 5222 for current vacancies.
New Component Supplier
A new company, SQ Sources Pty Ltd,
has recently been formed to supply
active and passive electronic components to the Australian market,
including: flash memory and EPROMs,
microcontrollers, optocouplers, relays,
logic devices, telecom circuits, power
devices, PLA devices and tantalum
and ceramic capacitors. The director
of the company is Keith Chan and their
Sydney head office is at Suite 22, Unit
4-5, Penrith Small Business Centre,
9-11 Abel St, Penrith, NSW 2750. Phone
(02) 4732 5044; fax (02) 4732 5066.
RCS Radio is MOVING. For information, ring 0408-613-300.
KIT ASSEMBLY
ANY KITS assembled/repaired: professional, speedy service. Phone Neville
Walker (07) 3857 2752.
April 2000 95
Silicon Chip Binders
Keep your copies safe, secure and
always available with SILICON CHIP
binders: they’re cheap insurance!
Advertising Index
Acetronics....................................59
REAL
VALUE
AT
Altronics................................. 38-40
PLUS P
&P
Dick Smith Electronics........... 24-27
$12.95
Heavy board covers with
2-tone green vinyl covering
Av-Comm Pty Ltd.........................95
EMC Technologies.......................59
Electronic Valve & Tube Co..........63
Each binder holds up to 14
issues so that you can include
catalogs
Harbuch Electronics....................83
Instant PCBs................................95
SILICON CHIP logo printed
in gold-coloured lettering on
spine & cover
Jamo Australia.........................OBC
Jaycar .........................................13
Kalex............................................47
Price: $12.95 plus $5 p&p each
(available Aust. only)
Kits-R-Us.....................................95
Order by phoning (02) 9979 5644 & quoting your credit card number;
or fax the details to (02) 9979 6503; or mail your order with cheque or
credit card details to Silicon Chip Publications, PO Box 139, Collaroy,
NSW 2097.
Microgram Computers...................5
MicroZed Computers...................59
Mitsubishi Electric................... IFC,1
Printed Electronics...................... 95
Questronix...................................59
DON’T MISS
THE ’BUS
Do you feel left behind by the latest
advances in computer technology? Don’t
miss the bus: get the ’bus!
Includes articles on troubleshooting your
PC, installing and setting up computer
networks, hard disk drive upgrades,
clean installing Windows 98, CPU
upgrades, a basic introduction to Linux
plus much more.
Rall Electronics............................59
REC Electronics........................IBC
www.siliconchip.com.au
SILICON
CHIP’S
132 Pages
$ 95 *
9
ISBN 0 95852291 X
9780958522910 09
09
9
780958
522910
COMPUTER
OMNIBUS
Robotic Education Products........59
RobotOz......................................59
Rocom Electronics.......................59
R.T.N............................................11
Silicon Chip Back Issues....... 36-37
INC
LUD
ES
FEA
TUR
E
LIN
UX
Silicon Chip Binders....................96
Silicon Chip Bookshop........... 86-87
A collection of computer features from the pages of SILICON
CHIP magazine
SC Internet Access................ 80-81
o Hints o Tips o
Upgrades o Fixes
NOW
Covers DOS, Windows 3.1, 95, 98,ANT
V
A
DIRE ILABLE
C
SILIC T FROM
ON
just $ CHIP
125
ORDER NOW: Use the handy order form in this issue or call
(02) 9979 5644, 8.30-5.30 Mon-Fri with your credit card details.
SC Computer Omnibus...............41
SC EFI Tech Special....................93
Silicon Chip Subscriptions...........53
RT
INC
O
P&P
Silvertone Electronics..................95
Smart Fastchargers.....................85
Solar Flair/Ecowatch....................95
Truscott’s Electronic World...........47
HELP SAVE THE NIGHT SKY!
We are losing our heritage of starry night skies. Poor, inefficient
outdoor lighting is causing glare and “light pollution”. This wastes
energy and increases greenhouse gas emissions.
You can help by joining SYDNEY OUTDOOR LIGHTING IMPROVEMENT SOCIETY (SOLIS). SOLIS aims to educate and inform about
quality outdoor lighting and its benefits. We also lobby councils, government and other bodies to promote good lighting practice. SOLIS meetings
are held third Monday night of each month at Sydney Observatory.
Individual membership is $20 pa. Donations are also welcome. Cheques payable
to “SOLIS c/- NSAS”, PO Box 214, West Ryde 2114.
Email: tpeters<at>pip.elm.mq.edu.au
96 Silicon Chip
Vass Electronics..........................59
Wiltronics.......................................2
_____________________________
PC Boards
Printed circuit boards for SILICON
CHIP projects are made by:
• RCS Radio Pty Ltd, 651 Forest
Rd, Bexley, NSW 2207. Phone (02)
9587 3491.
• Marday Services, PO Box 19-189,
Avondale, Auckland, NZ. Phone (09)
828 5730.
April 2000 97
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