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Ultrasonic
PARKING RADAR
Do you park by the “touch and go” method – touch the
car behind you, go forward a bit, touch the car in front,
go back a bit . . . ? Shame, shame, shame!
But even if you’re not a careless parker, this little radar
warning unit could help get you into tight spots!
Parking a car is a real problem for
many people. They can’t!
Unless there is a shop window to
reflect off they simply have no idea
how to judge the distance between
the back of their car and the front of
the next.
They either make life very hard for
themselves, making what should be
a three-point parking a ten or twenty
point saga (you think we’re joking?) or,
worse still, stop reversing when their
tow bar has made a nice little scallop
in the number plate of the car behind.
Even a slight touch on a modern
car can cost thousands of dollars to
38 Silicon Chip
repair, especially where integral,
moul-ded (or non-existent) bumper
bars or too-sensitive air bag sensors
are involved.
So what’s the answer?
Here it is – a small ultrasonic
transmitter/receiver which warns
you when you’re getting too close.
It’s designed to fit to the back bumper
(or other suitable location) of your car
and sounds a buzzer or closes a relay
when you’re within the range you set
– anything from about a metre down
to just a few centimetres.
While designed for the specific
purpose of parking, there are other
Design by
Branco
Justic*
applications where you might want to
sense objects that come within range –
security is one which springs to mind,
perhaps even things like vehicles or
other objects going past or through a
small opening.
It’s all housed on one PC board (even
the ultrasonic transducers) which can
all fit into a small disposals plastic
case, ready for mounting on the car.
Circuit description
The circuit can be divided into
three sections – a high gain amplifier
based on transistors Q1 & Q2 and
the ultrasonic transducers, a rectifier
(D1&D2) and an output switch (actually two output switches) based on
IC1c and IC1d.
Two cascaded amplifier stages
based on Q1 and Q2 form a potentially
high gain amplifier, with its gain set by
VR1. This amplifier has a 40kHz ultrasonic receiver transducer connected
to its input and a 40kHz ultrasonic
transmitter transducer connected to
its output (ie, Q2’s collector). So there
is a potential feedback path between
output and input.
Normally, the overall loop gain is
set to be less than one but if an object
comes into reasonably close proximity
and reflects enough energy from the
ultrasonic transmitter to the ultrasonic receiver, the gain increases to
the point where it exceeds one and
the amplifier will then break into
oscillation.
The loop gain includes the acoustic
feedback between the transducers
(loss) and the gain of the amplifier
(gain). The distance at which the oscillation will first occur depends on the
mechanical setup, acoustic isolation
between the ultrasonic transducers
and the setting of VR1. We'll look
at the mechanical considerations
shortly.
The oscillator output is rectified
by C4, D1, D2 and C5 which form a
“diode pump”.
The detected voltage across C5 is
added to the voltage across C6, which
is set by trimpot VR2 connected across
the 6.2V supply.
The total voltage is applied to the
input of NAND gate IC1d. When this
exceeds approximately 3.1V (half the
supply voltage), IC1d’s output goes
low which allows capacitor C7 to
quickly charge via diode D3.
When C7 is charged the input to
IC1c goes low so its output goes high.
Transistor Q3 is turned on, energising
the load connected to its collector.
This load could be an electro-mechanical buzzer or a relay with diode D5
connected across it. At the same time,
the LED connected to Q3’s collector
lights up.
The high output from IC1c also
enables the 3kHz oscillator based on
gates IC1a and IC1b and therefore the
buzzer “buzzes”.
C7 will begin to discharge via R6
after the input amplifier (Q1 & Q2)
stops oscillating; ie when the object
that caused the oscillation is moved
away from the transducers. When the
Ready to mount on the bumper bar or other suitable location, the Ultrasonic
Parking Radar is simple to build, automatic in use and could save you $$$!
voltage falls below 3.1V the output
from IC1c goes low and the LED,
buzzer and/or relay turn off.
There is a test link on the PC board
to assist in setting the unit up. With no
test link it takes C7 about 10 seconds to
discharge. With the test link in place
R10 is in parallel with R6 and the time
is reduced to about one second.
If you wish to adjust the time later,
it is simply a matter of changing R6 –
smaller values for shorter times, larger
values for longer times.
Construction
Start by checking the PC board for
any flaws, defects or undrilled holes.
Then it is simply a matter of mounting
and soldering the lowest components
(resistors and diodes) first, followed
by the capacitors, the trimpots and
finally the transistors, IC and LED.
Note that all semiconductors and
electrolytic capacitors are polarised
and must be inserted the way shown
on the component overlay.
The test link should be installed
at this stage – use one of the resistor
pigtail cut-offs.
PC stakes can be used for external
connections – the + and - power wires
and the wires to the buzzer and/or
relay. The ultrasonic transducers can
be soldered directly to the PC board or
mounted remotely via suitable lengths
of shielded (coaxial) cable.
If you mount them on the board,
they can be on either the component
side or copper side of the board. On
the component side, though, you will
need PC stakes as the leads will not
be long enough to allow mounting
on edge (ie, facing off the edge of the
board).
The transducers are not polarised
but there is a difference between
the transmitter and receiver: one is
branded “S” and the other “R”. Guess
which is which? (A clue: R stands for
receive).
The ultrasonic transmitter and receiver transducers are mounted flush with the
case edge. Alternatively, they could be mounted externally to give even wider
acoustic separation, thus increasing the range of the unit.
FEBRUARY 2000 39
Fig. 1: the complete Ultrasonic Parking Radar. It's
your choice whether the output is a relay or buzzer.
Fig.2 (above): the PC board component layout. Use this in
conjunction with the same-size photograph below and you
should have no problems at all assembling the board.
40 Silicon Chip
Setting up
The range of this unit depends to some degree on the acoustic
separation between the transducers. With them mounted as
shown in the plastic box, the circuit works quite satisfactorily
but it would probably work even better with more separation.
Some experimentation may be necessary to achieve maximum
range. We have also found that, in this box, a small piece of
polyurethane foam placed between the transducers will improve the range of the system.
Before you get to that point though, you will need to set the
trimpots (VR1 and VR2) to at least get the circuit operational.
Turn VR1 and VR2 fully anticlockwise. These settings correspond to minimum amplifier gain (VR1) and minimum trigger
threshold voltage (VR2). Rotate VR2 clockwise until the LED
just lights, then back it off slightly until the LED extinguishes.
This procedure sets the threshold of the trigger point.
At this stage the unit still cannot be triggered by approaching objects as the amplifier gain is set to zero (VR1 is fully
anticlockwise). Increase VR1 (clockwise) by small increments,
checking with a solid object brought in front of the transducers
at a distance of say, 500mm. You should find that a point is
reached where triggering is reliable. If you want a shorter range,
back VR1 off a little.
Conversely, a longer range can be achieved by increasing the
amplifier gain (ie, increasing VR1) but beyond a certain point
the unit will be permanently triggered, even with no objects
placed in front of the transducers. This is because the loop gain
Parts List
1 Ultrasonic Radar PC board, 96
x 50mm
1 plastic case to suit
1 panel label to suit
1 piezo or electro-mechanical
buzzer and/or 12V coil relay
(see text)
2 10mm M3 screws and nuts
2 5mm M3 spacers
Here’s how it all fits together in the disposals case from Oatley Electronics. The
buzzer shown is mounted under the dash or similar location inside the car.
is now greater than one, producing
permanent oscillation.
If you need higher range, the only
way that this oscillation can be
stopped is to introduce more acoustic
separation between the transducers.
When the desired settings are
achieved, the test link can be removed
and the unit mounted in an appropriate position on the vehicle.
Note that both the case (or the transducers if mounted remotely) will need
to be fairly well waterproofed if placed
in a position where they can be rained
on or splashed (and that’s most useful
positions on the rear of the car!).
Waterproof ultrasonic transducers
may be available shortly but at a
higher cost.
Power for the unit is most sensibly
taken from the reversing light circuit,
so that it is powered only when you are
reversing. Identifying a reversing light
Where to get the kit
This kit is available only from *Oatley
Electronics, who hold copyright on the
design and PC board. A complete kit of
parts including the case, label and some
cable is available for $24.00. A short-form
kit, including the PC board, all on-board
components and transducers, is $19.00
Oatley Electronics sell by mail, phone
and email/internet. You can contact them
on (02) 9548 3563, Fax (02) 9584 3561,
PO Box 89, Oatley NSW 2233, or by email
sales<at>oatleyelectronics.com. The website
is located at www.oatleyelectronics.com
shouldn’t be too difficult and you can
tap into the wiring using a “Scotchlok”
or similar connector. These need no
soldering – they pierce the wiring
insulation and make contact as you
squeeze them into position with a
pair of pliers.
A fuse is probably unnecessary
as the reversing light circuit itself is
fused.
The buzzer will need to be mounted
within hearing range – under the dashboard seems to make sense. Ordinary
(thin) figure-8 cable is quite OK for
this purpose. The buzzer shown in our
photographs is probably inadequate
for most cars because of its limited
output. However, there are plenty of
piezo and electro-magnetic buzzers
around which would be more than
loud enough.
We wouldn’t suggest using an alarm
piezo though – not if you value your
hearing, that is. With most of these
alarms designed to make a lot of noise
(around 100-110dB output), that’s just
a bit too loud for comfort!
SC
Semiconductors
1 4093B quad 2-input NAND
gate (IC1)
3 C8050 NPN transistors
(Q1, Q2, Q3)
2 1N60 germanium signal diodes
(D1, D2)
2 1N914 silicon signal diodes
(D3, 34)
1 GIG or 1N4004 power diode
(D5)
1 6.2V 400mW zener diode
1 5mm LED (any colour)
1 MA40A3S or equivalent
ultrasonic transmitter
transducer (TX1)
1 MA40A3R or equivalent
ultrasonic receiver
transducer (RX1)
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
3 1MΩ 1 100kΩ
1 12kΩ
3 10kΩ 2 2.2kΩ
1 470Ω
2 10kΩ trimpots
Capacitors
1 10µF 25VW PC electrolytic
3 10µF 16VW PC electrolytic
1 0.1µF polyester
(code: 104 or 100n)
4 .012µF polyester
(code: 123 or 12n)
Miscellaneous
Suitable lengths of hookup wire,
figure-8 cable and shielded cable,
“Scotchlok” or similar wiring
connectors, suitable mounting
nuts and bolts, solder, etc.
Resistor Colour Codes
No.
3
1
1
3
2
1
Value
1MΩ
100kΩ
12kΩ
10kΩ
2.2kΩ
470Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black green brown
brown black yellow brown
brown red orange brown
brown black orange brown
red red red brown
yellow violet brown brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black yellow brown
brown black black orange brown
brown red black red brown
brown black black red brown
red red black brown brown
yellow violet black black brown
FEBRUARY 2000 41
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