This is only a preview of the February 2000 issue of Silicon Chip. You can view 34 of the 96 pages in the full issue, including the advertisments. For full access, purchase the issue for $10.00 or subscribe for access to the latest issues. Items relevant to "A Digital Voltmeter For Your Car":
Items relevant to "Build A Safety Switch Checker":
Items relevant to "A Sine/Square Wave Oscillator For Your Workbench":
Articles in this series:
Purchase a printed copy of this issue for $10.00. |
Build a
“Safety Switch”
Checker
By JOHN CLARKE
Many homes now have “Safety Switches” installed on their mains
switchboards and these give a high level of protection against
electrocution from faulty appliances. But how do check that the
safety switch is protecting every power point? By using our
RCD Checker which is simple to build and even simpler to use.
S
INCE THE INTRODUCTION of
mandatory installation of RCDs
in all new homes, there has been
a huge increase in the availability of
these products. There is no doubt that
RCDs increase overall safety when using mains power and are a vital piece
of equipment when using power tools.
Indeed, under WorkCover regulations,
all tradesmen on building sites are
required to use RCDs when running
power tools.
Before we go too far in this article,
we should explain what an RCD is.
Features
* Suitable for home use, tradesmen, electricians, musicians, etc
* Creates an Earth leakage current to test RCD
* Push to test operation
* Neon indicator shows presence of power and checks internal components
* Neon indicator to check Earth connection and Active/Neutral terminals
* Suitable for type II RCDs (10-30mA rated residual current)
* Applies residual test current from 32.5mA at 192VAC to 45.5mA at 264VAC.
* Complies with Australian Standard AS 3190-1994 for RCD to trip at or
above rated residual current of 100% +5% -0% between 80% of rated
supply to 110% of rated supply (240VAC).
FEBRUARY 2000 53
Our RCD or “Safety Switch” checker is built into a plugpack supply case. It
simply plugs into the outlet to be checked.
“RCD” is an acronym for “Residual
Current Device”. While sometimes
called a “Current-operated Earth leakage device” most people refer to them
as a “safety switch”.
They protect the user from electrocution by disconnecting the 240VAC
supply if there is current flow to Earth.
The RCD does this by monitoring the
current flow between the Active and
Neutral lines for the 240VAC mains
supply. In a normally operating appliance there is current flow from the
Active lead through the appliance
and then back through the Neutral
lead. This is shown in Fig.1a. Both
currents i1 and i2 should be exactly
the same value.
If there is a fault in the appliance, as
shown in Fig.1b, some of the current
flowing from the Active lead may flow
to Earth (i3) instead of to Neutral. If
this is the case it may be that either
there is a breakdown in the appliance
between Active and Earth or someone
is conducting current away from Neutral via their body. In other words they
Fig.1a shows an appliance in normal
condition – earthed but with no
leakage. Fig.1b shows the same device
with a fault. Fig.1c shows the “self
test” in an RCD and Fig.1d shows how
our checker can tell whether the RCD
is operating correctly. All of these
diagrams are fully explained in the
text.
54 Silicon Chip
are suffering electrocution.
The RCD detects this difference between the Active and Neutral current
and disconnects the power should
the difference reach a predetermined
level. The difference between the
Active and Neutral current is called
the residual.
An RCD cannot protect against electrocution if the current flow through
the person is between Active and Neu-
tral. This is because the RCD cannot
differentiate between appliance current and current through your body.
(The moral of this is never to work on
an appliance which is connected to
the 240VAC mains supply!)
Note that any appliance with exposed metal parts can become an
electrocution hazard and this includes
many appliances which are labelled
as “double insulated”. All that has
to happen is a for a leakage path to
develop between the Active mains
terminal in the equipment and the
exposed metal parts; ie, usually the
case. Then, if the case is not earthed,
it will be live and a potential cause of
electrocution if a person touches it.
There are several types of RCDs.
Type I RCDs have a rated residual
current of 10mA and a 40ms tripping
time. Type II have a rated residual
current of between 10 and 30mA and
40ms tripping time at 500% residual
over-current. It takes some 300ms to
trip at the rated residual current.
Type III RCDs have a rated residual
current of between 30 and 300mA
and a 50ms tripping time at the 500%
residual current. Finally, type IV has
type III current characteristics with
selectable tripping times. Type II RCDs
are the most frequently encountered.
You should test your RCDs periodically with their own self-test switches.
But this does not tell the whole story.
Firstly, the self-test switch on the RCD
merely tests its own operation. It does
Fig. 2: the circuit of
the RCD Checker
could hardly be
simpler: three
resistors, two neons
and a switch!
Just remember that
all this is at mains
potential and no
RCD Checker can
protect you against
an active/neutral
path. Never work
on a plugged-in RCD
Checker.
not tell you which power points are
protected.
If you have an RCD installed in
your switchboard, you can use the
checker to test each power point for
its operation; not all power points will
necessarily be connected.
Secondly, power points which include an RCD do protect other power
points connected to it but only those
that are “down line” from it – that
is, further along the mains circuit
from the switchboard than the power
point concerned. You can use the RCD
Checker again to find out those which
are protected and those which are not.
Third, if you are using power in
a premises where you are uncertain
about the presence of an RCD, you
can test for this on each power point.
Finally, electricians can use the
RCD Checker to verify that their installation is effective on each power
point. Using the RCD Checker to trip
out an RCD is a very convincing test
of its effectiveness.
there is no access to the Neutral input
side of the RCD at the power point.
The full circuit is shown in Fig.2. It
comprises two Neon indicators, some
resistors and a pushbutton switch.
The “Valid Earth” Neon connected
between Active and Earth lights to
show there is an Active supply and a
connection to Earth. This indicator is
useful to verify that the Earth circuit
exists on the power point. If there is
no Earth connection, the RCD Checker
cannot trip the RCD under test and
the power point should be checked
before using it.
The “Power/Test” Neon monitors
the Active and Neutral supply via the
test current resistors, R1, R2 & R3. The
Parts List
1 3-pin plugpack case (Jaycar
HB-5900 or equivalent)
1 RCD Checker label, 40 x 32mm
1 250VAC plastic pushbutton
momentary SPST switch (S1,
Jaycar SP-0716, DSE P-7568,
Altronics S-1080)
2 plastic Neon bezels with
resistor (Jaycar SL-2630, DSE
P-8116, P-8117, Altronics
S-4016)
1 small cordgrip grommet to fill
hole in case
1 100mm length of blue 250VAC
7.5A 250VAC wire
1 200mm length of brown
250VAC 7.5A 250VAC wire
1 100mm length of green/yellow
250VAC 7.5A 250VAC wire
1 20mm length of 1mm insulating
tubing
1 20mm length of 3mm
heatshrink tubing
1 100mm length of 12mm ID
heatshrink tubing
1 small cable tie
Resistors
2 2.2kΩ 5W wirewound resistors
1 1.5kΩ 5W wirewound resistor
Miscellaneous
Neutral-cure silicone sealant
Test method
So how does the test switch for an
RCD work? Fig.1c shows the circuit
for the internal self-test method used
on an RCD. When the test switch
is closed, the Active current passes
through resistor R1 to the Neutral on
the input side of the RCD. Thus all the
current through R1 is assumed by the
RCD to be the residual. R1 is chosen
to trip the RCD between 80% to 110%
of rated voltage (eg, from 192VAC to
264VAC for a unit rated at 240VAC).
Fig.1d shows the circuit for the
SILICON CHIP RCD Checker. In this case
the test current flows from the Active
to Earth. We have used this method for
two reasons. First, because it simulates
a true Earth fault and also because
Compare this “opened out” photo of the RCD Checker with the wiring diagram
(Fig.3,) while building your checker. While it is very simple, take extra care – it
is a mains device, after all!
FEBRUARY 2000 55
Neon will only light if the three resistors are in circuit and there is power
from the Active to Neutral. When the
test switch is pressed, the Power/Test
Neon will go out and residual current
will flow from Active to Earth. The
Valid Earth Neon will stay alight until
power is disconnected.
So if you are using the RCD Checker
and you press the button, both Neons
will go out for an RCD that is working
properly. Note that the switch must be
held down for at least 300ms (1/3rd
of a second) to ensure that the RCD is
given sufficient time to trigger.
Construction
The RCD Checker is constructed
in a plugpack case with the switch
and two Neons mounted on the case
lid. The three resistors mount around
the mains pins inside the case. Fig.3
shows the wiring details.
Begin construction by drilling the
holes for the switch and two Neons.
These are drilled as shown in Fig.4.
Insert and secure the two Neons and
pushbutton in place. The front panel
label (Fig.5) fits into the rectangular
moulding above the Neons and switch.
Use the wiring diagram of Fig.4
when connecting up the components.
Assembled and ready to go, this side-on shot shows how neat a package the
plugpack case makes. The cord entry grommet (on the bottom) is not used and
for safety, the hole should be sealed with silicone sealant.
The resistors are placed around the
plug pins with a short length of insulating sleeving on the resistor lead
connecting to the Active pin. Solder
the resistor leads together and secure
a brown mains wire to the free end of
the 1.5kΩ resistor and insulate it with
a short length of heatshrink tubing.
The wiring to the Neons and switch
must be followed carefully and use
250VAC-rated wire. Slip a short length
of heatshrink tubing over the Neon
and switch body before connecting
the wires. Then pull the tubing up
over the terminals and shrink it with
a heat gun.
Secure the resistors with some silicone sealant (neutral-cure acid free,
eg, roof and gutter sealant) and cover
the resistor wires with a dob as well.
Leave to cure overnight. Secure the wires together with
a cable tie.
The case has a cord entry
point at the lower righthand side which must be
filled to prevent accidental
contact with any internal
wiring. We used a small cord
grip grommet in the hole
which effectively sealed off
the opening. Alternatively,
the hole could be “plugged”
with some more silicone
sealant.
Secure the case together
using the supplied screws,
with the two longer ones at
the top.
Checking operation
Fig.3: wiring the checker should take no more than about half an hour – ten minutes
to assemble, then twenty minutes to check your work before it is plugged in.
56 Silicon Chip
Plug the RCD Checker
into the power point and
switch on the power point
switch. Both Neons should
light. The power/test Neon
will light to indicate supply
between the Active and
Neutral and that the test
resistors are in circuit.
If it does not light, check
SMART FASTCHARGERS®
2 NEW MODELS WITH OPTIONS
TO SUIT YOUR NEEDS & BUDGET
Now with 240V AC + 12V DC operation
PLUS fully automatic voltage detection
Fig. 4 (left): drilling details
for the front half of the
Jaycar HB-5900 case.
Use these REFLEX® chargers for all your
Nicads and NIMH batteries: Power tools
Torches Radio equip. Mobile phones
Video cameras Field test instruments
RC models incl. indoor flight Laptops
Photographic equip. Toys Others
Fig. 5 (above): the samesize label which fits the
cut-out in the Jaycar
HB-5900 plugpack case.
the resistors for continuity and correct
value and that there is power available.
The Earth Neon will light to show
there is an Earth connection on the
power point. If this does not light,
you either have the Active and Neutral connections in the power point
transposed or there is a faulty earth
connection.
Either way, you should
engage a licensed electrician
to correct the problem.
Pressing the Test switch
for half a second (ie, more
than 300ms) should trip the
RCD. Both Neons should extinguish and the RCD should
show that it has tripped.
If it has not tripped, check
that the RCD can be tripped
with its own self-test switch.
Any faulty RCD should be
immediately replaced.
If the RCD can be tripped with its
own test switch but not with the RCD
Checker, check the rated trip current.
The SILICON CHIP RCD Checker is for
use with 10-30mA RCDs only and
will not test type III RCDs which will
take a higher residual current before
SC
tripping.
Rugged, compact and very portable.
Designed for maximum battery capacity
and longest battery life.
AVOIDS THE WELL KNOWN MEMORY EFFECT.
SAVES MONEY & TIME: Restore most Nicads with
memory effect to capacity. Recover batteries with
very low remaining voltage.
CHARGES VERY FAST plus ELIMINATES THE
NEED TO DISCHARGE: charge standard batteries in
minimum 3 min., max. 1 to 4 hrs, depending on mA/h
rating. Partially empty batteries are just topped up.
Batteries always remain cool; this increases the total
battery life and also the battery’s reliability.
DESIGNED AND MADE IN AUSTRALIA
For a FREE, detailed technical description please
Ph (03) 6492 1368; Fax (03) 6492 1329; or
email smartfastchargers<at>bigpond.com
2567 Wilmot Rd., Devonport, TAS 7310
Silicon Chip
Binders
REAL
VALUE
AT
$12.95
PLUS
ACTIVE/NEUTRAL TRANSPOSITION
Until fairly recently, the connection of the Active and Neutral lines to a
power outlet was not given the careful attention that it is today. In many older
houses (say, pre 1950) you often find the Active and Neutral lines transposed,
or swapped at the power point. (In a correctly wired outlet, when you look at
the three “holes” from the front, the active is on the left side and the neutral
on the right. Earth, of course, is ALWAYS at the bottom (vertical).
Indeed, until the late 1960s "double adaptors” were sold which themselves
transposed Active and Neutral! Of course, devices still work when plugged
into transposed outlets and RCDs also work. It’s normally only a combination
of appliance and earth faults which brings out the horrors of an Active/Neutral
transposition.
This device will not check RCDs where the Active and Neutral are transposed.
However, it is very useful for determining whether you have an Active/Neutral
transposition. If you have a power point which is known to work but the “valid
earth” neon does not light, treat it with suspicion. It could be a broken or high
resistance earth – which of course must be fixed immediately – or it could be
an Active/Neutral transposition.
It’s worth having the outlet checked out by a licenced electrician – for your
piece of mind and your safety.
P&P
Heavy board covers with 2-tone
green vinyl covering
Each binder holds up to 14 issues
SILICON CHIP logo printed on spine
& cover
Price: $A12.95 plus $A5 p&p each
(Australia only)
Just fill in & mail the handy order form
in this issue; or fax (02) 9979 6503;
or ring (02) 9979 5644 & quote your
credit card number.
FEBRUARY 2000 57
|