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VINTAGE RADIO
By RODNEY CHAMPNESS, VK3UG
The Intriguing Philips “Philetta”
Every so often, a radio appears that is quite
different from the usual fare of vintage radio
receivers. The Philips “Philetta” is one such
set. It was not only a multi-band AM receiver
but also came complete with an FM band.
The Philips Philetta fits into the
mantle set category but it’s the inclusion of FM that really got my
attention. It is not a large set and has
only four valves but despite this, it
still delivers good performance on
FM (more on that later).
Unfortunately, I don’t own this set;
Geoff, its owner lent it to me so that I
could share this story with you.
I first saw this set playing at a
vintage radio club meeting and was
immediately attracted to it. But what
really impressed me was that it was
receiving the local FM stations on just
a few metres of wire – and it used only
four valves! I just had to have a much
closer look at this set and Geoff agreed
that I could take it home for a couple
of weeks so that I could examine it
at my leisure.
The Philetta is a small-to-medium
The Philetta is housed in an attractive veneered plywood cabinet and is very
nicely made. There’s just one problem – it isn’t mine!
78 Silicon Chip
sized set in an attractive veneered
plywood cabinet. It features a recessed front panel and escutcheon,
which means that it can be tipped
onto its front without damaging the
controls. It really is quite attractive
and the wooden cabinet would have
been considered unusual in Australia
at the time, as most of our sets were
residing in plastic cabinets. However,
this set is a quality receiver with lots
of worthwhile features.
Having admired it, I proceeded to
put it through its paces. The front panel escutcheon is labelled in German,
as is the back panel, but the function
of each control is still quite apparent.
This leads me to suspect that it was
brought into Australia by a migrant
during the 1960s. Eventually, it was
sold to a secondhand dealer because
it didn’t work at times. Geoff bought
it from the dealer and quickly found a
dry solder joint on the mains switch.
The various radio bands that the set
operates on are selected using a bank
of piano-style switches in the lower
centre of the front panel. These are as
follows: LW (Long Wave) 150-270kHz;
MW (Medium Wave), 515-1630kHz;
KW (Short Wave) 5.8-12.4MHz; and
UKW (Frequency Modulation) 88107MHz. However, the dial calibrations show slightly different tuning
ranges, indicating that it was probably
tweaked to work on our bands out
here, particularly the FM band which
shows 88-104MHz.
The last switch is marked AUS
which means power off. Pressing LW
and KW at the same time actuates the
record player terminals.
The two front panel rotary controls
are actually dual concentric controls.
The lefthand one is for volume and
tone, while the one on the right
consists of two tuning controls –
one for the AM bands and the other
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The rear panel is well-labelled – even if it is in German! Fortunately, the
symbols make it easy to work out what’s what. The back is removed by undoing
just two screws, while another four screws underneath release the chassis.
exclusively for the FM band. This
means that it is possible to set both a
favourite AM station and a favourite
FM station and just switch between
them by pressing the appropriate
band change switch. Nifty!
Performance
Having worked out the function
of each control, I soon had it up and
running on the AM broadcast band.
On local stations, I found that it work
ed quite satisfactorily using only its
ferrite rod antenna.
When an external antenna and
earth were connected, it proved to be
quite a performer, with 10µV signals
being heard. On the long-wave band,
the set was just as sensitive with an
external antenna connected but didn’t
pick up much using just the ferrite rod
antenna. A number of non-directional
beacons (NDBs) were heard over quite
some distance with the antenna connected but unless you are able to read
Morse code, it is difficult to determine
what the callsigns are or where the
stations are located.
On the shortwave band, the results
were not as impressive, the sensitivity varying between 30µV and
300µV across the band. Perhaps the
alignment was out on this band but
it wasn’t my set, so I didn’t have the
right to fiddle. Still, the band provided some worthwhile listening – Radio
Australia booms in here, being only
10km away, just north of Shepparton.
FM performance
Now to the FM band. I was curious
to find out how well a 4-valve FM
receiver would work.
For the FM band, there are two
sockets for a balanced antenna of 240
ohms – not 300 ohms as generally
specified in Australia. The difference
in impedance is not important and an
FM antenna with a 300-ohm twin lead
will work very well with the set. The
receiver was connected to just a few
metres of wire initially and later to
my outside FM antenna. It proved to
be quite sensitive on the FM band and
all the local stations were received at
good strength, along with a few more
distant stations.
One handy little item at the
lefthand end of the escutcheon is
a bar-type magic eye valve. This is
used for tuning the set for maximum
signal strength and works on both
AM and FM.
I was most impressed with the
audio quality of the set, this being
noticeably better than from Australian-made plastic mantle sets of the
same era. The speaker was around 150
x 100mm and remarkably well baffled for such a small set. The output
transformer uses “C” core construction and is obviously a good-quality
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November 2000 79
There’s quite a lot of circuitry built onto the chassis – not surprising considering
the AM & FM bands that the set covers. Most of the parts, including all the
valves and the tuning gang, are mounted on a large PC board.
unit, as there is plenty of bass and
treble in the audio output. In short,
it sounded good.
A look inside
My next step was to take the back
off and remove the chassis, so that
I could get a really good look at the
works. Undoing two screws allows
the back to be removed and this reveals a chassis with a PC board that
holds most of the parts. The chassis is
then released by undoing four screws
underneath the cabinet, after which it
can be removed by tilting the back up
and sliding it out. It comes out with
all the controls and the escutcheon
attached.
Good one Mr Philips – it’s a pity
that a lot more sets aren’t like this
as it make alignment so much easier. Another nice feature is that the
speaker remains in the cabinet but the
red and white leads running to it are
long enough to permit the removal of
the chassis while leaving the speaker
connected so that the set can still be
operated.
Because the set is able to tune three
AM bands and one FM band, there’s
quite a lot of circuitry. As a result, it
wouldn’t be easy to service without
80 Silicon Chip
a circuit diagram but unfortunately,
this isn’t included with the set.
As shown in the photos, the parts
are all mounted on pheno
l ic PC
board. One drawback with this board
is that you cannot see the tracks from
the component side when you hold it
up to the light. This makes it harder
to trace circuit paths, although the
board appears to be of good quality.
On a similar theme, the wave-change
switches are all enclosed, so it’s not
easy to work out the switch connections from the copper side of the PC
board.
Circuit technicalities
A quick look around the set soon
revealed the valve complement. For
the AM bands, there’s a 6AJ8/ECH81
converter (arguably the best AM
converter of its type), a 6DC8/EBF89
460 kHz IF amplifier and detector,
and a 6GW8/ECL86 2-stage audio
amplifier. The tuning indicator is an
6FG6/EM84 and is used on both the
AM and FM bands.
The FM section uses an ECC85/6AQ8 twin triode in the front
end, the first triode wired as an
RF amplifier and the second as a
self-oscillating converter. The output
from the converter is nominally on
10.7MHz.
By the way, the much higher IF
used for FM as compared to AM
(455kHz) serves two purposes: (1) it
means that “double-spotting” is unlikely to occur, as the image is 21.4
MHz away (compared to just 910kHz
in an AM receiver); and (2) it provides
the necessary bandwidth (180kHz) to
receive the FM signal without clipping the higher amplitude (ie, louder)
audio signals.
Following the 6AQ8, the signal is
applied to the 6AJ8 converter valve.
In this case, however, it is configured to act purely as a 10.7MHz IF
amplifier and its output is applied
to the 6DC8 which acts as the second
IF amplifier. From there, it goes to a
pair of germanium diodes connected
in a frequency discriminator circuit.
Finally, the detected audio is fed
to the 6GW8 audio output stages, as
in the AM mode.
The FM IF has no limiting circuitry
and there is no inter-station muting –
two features that are commonly found
on later sets with FM tuners.
Power supply
The power supply is quite conventional and uses a transformer with
a tapped primary for 110-127V and
220V AC. In Australia, the receiver
has 240V AC applied to it, so it is
being operated above its rated mains
voltage. Despite that, it has worked
well for many years without any
problems or signs of overheating, so it
can obviously tolerate this situation.
The high-voltage AC output from
the transformer is fed to a block selenium rectifier which uses the chassis
as a heatsink. This gives an output
voltage of about 245V DC, so with
220V AC mains the output would be
about 225V DC.
Ancillary circuits
The tuning indicator is mounted
upside down at the left front of the set
and is held in place with a close-fitting metal sleeve. As a result, the
valve socket that the indicator plugs
into is “floating”, with the leads running away to the PC board. It’s quite
safe but is rather unusual since we
are used to valve sockets being firmly
attached to the receiver chassis.
On the back of the chassis are two
DIN sockets, one for a record player
input and the other an output for a
tape recorder. Certainly very little has
been left to chance in this little set.
Safety blemish
From all the foregoing, it might be
thought that I think this set is without
blemish. Not so! European receivers
often have mains wiring exposed
when the chassis is removed from the
cabinet, often just where you might
be tempted to place your hand to turn
the set over! This set is not as bad
as some but the power transformer
terminals are exposed along one edge
of the chassis.
Repositioning these deadly termi-
The PC board assembly is quite well-made, although it is rather difficult to
determine which tracks go to the components mounted on the top of the board.
This makes signal tracing rather difficult and this would not be an easy set to
service without a circuit diagram.
nals or at least putting a cover over
them would not have been all that
difficult.
Another small problem is the effect
that the heat from the output valve has
on the cabinet above it. It has caused
the veneer to split slightly. Including
some method to dissipate the heat
above the audio valve would have
eliminated this problem.
Summary
As you will have gathered, I was
very impressed with this little mantle
receiver. In my opinion, it’s the best
European-made set that I have seen.
That’s not to say that it has the best
performance, looks the most elegant
or has the most features. It was, after
all, designed as a medium-quality
receiver that could be sold for a relatively low price.
It has a nice cabinet, is easy to disassemble, works well and has most of
the frequency ranges that were (and
still are) used in Europe. However,
at the time this set was brought to
Australia, we did not use the FM band
for domestic radio broadcasting. The
same goes for the long-wave band.
What failings does the set have?
Well, we mentioned the lack of a
circuit diagram, the exposed mains
terminals and the heat damage to the
top of the cabinet. That said, I have
been quite picky about the faults and
had to look hard to find any.
The only real problem I have with
this set is that it isn’t mine. If you see
one, grab it; it’s worth collecting. SC
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