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Clean up the clicks & pops on your vinyl records with the
LP DOCTOR
Building the LP Doctor sure is a lot easier
than understanding how it works. All the
parts are mounted on a single PC board and
this is installed in a rack case to produce an
attractive unit.
Pt.2: By JOHN CLARKE
The PC board for the LP Doctor is
coded 01101011 and measures 311
x 160mm. Begin construction by
checking your board for any shorts
between tracks or breaks in the copper traces. Check also that the holes
sizes are correct. You will need 3mm
holes for the board mounting screws,
1mm holes for the 1N4004 diodes and
1.5mm holes for the terminals of the
two potentiometers (VR1 & VR2).
Finally, check that the PC stake
76 Silicon Chip
holes are the correct size for the
stakes that you are using. In most
cases, everything will be correct but
it’s always a good idea to check before
installing any of the parts.
Fig.9 shows the parts layout for
the PC board. You can now start the
assembly by installing the links and
resistors. The resistor values can be
checked against the colour code table
(Table 2) or you can check their values
using a digital multimeter.
The best approach is to install and
solder 10 or 12 resistors at a time. The
excess lead lengths are then trimmed
close to the board using sidecutters
before moving on to the next batch.
The PC stakes can go in next –
there are 25 stakes in all and these
are installed at the external wiring
points (for the LEDs, power supply,
earth, signal inputs and outputs, and
switch S2). Once these are in, install
inductors L1 and L2. These consist
simply of short lengths of tinned copper wire which are threaded through
5mm-long RF ferrite beads.
Now for the semiconductors. Make
Below: this view shows the general
layout of all the hardware. The rotary
switch terminals are connected to PC
stakes on the PC board using lengths
of tinned copper wire.
The LP Doctor can be used every time you listen to your
LPs or it can be used to clean up the sound from LPs
before transferring them to CD-ROM.
sure that each IC goes in its designated
position and that it is correctly orientated. The ICs all face in the same
direction and pin 1 is always adjacent
to a small dot or notch in one end of
the plastic body of the device.
Similarly, watch the orientation
of the diodes and transistors when
installing them. Take care also not to
get the transistors mixed up – Q1 & Q3
are PNP BC558s, while Q2 & Q4 are
NPN BC338s. Use the 1N4004 power
diodes for D1-D5 and the smaller-bodied 1N4148s for D6-D10.
The three 3-terminal regulators
(REG1-REG3) all face in the same direction but note that these devices are
all different so don’t get them mixed
up. In particular, REG1 is an LM317
type, while REG2 is an LM337. The
third regulator, REG3, is an LM29405. Install them with their metal tabs
positioned as shown on Fig.9
The board assembly can now be
completed by installing the capacitors, trimpots, potentiometers (VR1
& VR4) and the two crystals (X1 &
X2). You will find that the ceramic
and MKT capacitors have their values
marked in code – see Table 1. The capacitors and crystals can go in either
way around but make sure that the
electrolytic capacitors are installed
with the correct polarity.
The exceptions here are the bipolar
(BP) or non-polarised (NP) electrolytic capacitors, which can be installed
either way. There are quite a lot of
these, so check the parts layout diagram carefully for their locations.
Preparing the case
As supplied, the case comes in
pieces and it’s a good idea to drill the
front and rear panels before putting it
together. Use the front panel artwork
(Fig.10), the signal input wiring diagram (Fig.11) and the mains wiring
diagram (Fig.12) as a guide to positioning these holes.
Starting with the front panel, you
have to drill holes for mains switch
S1, potentiometers VR1 & VR4, the
three indicator LEDs and rotary
switch S2. The square hole for the
mains switch (S1) can be made by first
drilling a series of small holes around
the inside perimeter, then knocking
out the centre piece and carefully
filing it to shape.
Don’t make this hole too big – the
mains switch must be a tight fit so
that it is properly secured by its retaining tabs.
The rear panel requires holes for
the safety fuseholder, the mains lead
cordgrip grommet, the 4-way RCA
socket and an adjacent earth lug. Take
care with the hole for the cordgrip
grommet. This hole is not round -
instead, it must be carefully profiled
to match the shape of the grommet,
so that the grommet can not later be
pulled out when the mains cord is
fitted.
Once all the holes have been
drilled, assemble the case without
the lid, using the machine screws
supplied. The next bit is important:
be sure to scrape away the paint at
the countersunk screw points, so
that each section of the case makes
good metal-to-metal contact. This
ensures that each section is properly
earthed to mains earth (important for
safety reasons) and also stops hum
problems.
Next, position the PC board on the
base of the case on 10mm standoffs
with the shafts of the potentiometers
protruding through the front panel.
You can now fit the knobs to the pot
shafts and mark out the locations for
the six standoff mounting holes. You
should also mark out the mounting
holes for the power transformer and
the mains earth lug (4mm hole).
This done, remove the PC board and
drill all the marked holes in the base.
Once the holes have been drilled,
scrape away the paint or anodising
from the area around the two earth
lug mounting holes (ie, adjacent to the
power transformer and 4-way RCA
terminal block). This is necessary to
FEBRUARY 2001 77
10k
1F
0V
9V
25V
AC IN
0V/9V
D1
D2
25V
D3
D4
REG1
470F
470F
.0068F
10k
0.1F
470F
16V
0.1F
11k
22k
150pF
22k
560pF
10k
TP4
150pF
10F
+
100k
220
27k
1k
1k
150pF .068F
BP
10k
SOLDER TO
POT BODY
1M
1M
.0068F
270
10F
5.1k
IC7
M65830P
1
IC14
TL072
VR7
250k
100pF
1
+
SWITCH S2
(REAR VIEW)
9
C
A
R
L
BP
39k
1F
82k
10F
BP
150pF
82k
39k
1F BP
10F BP
82k
100k
150
150
78 Silicon Chip
22k
11k
22k
.068F
27
0.1F
0.1F
22k
150
100k
100k
.0047F
100pF
16k
200k
10F
BP
1k
IC1
LM833
1
0.1F
100k
100k
100k
82k
BP
1
LEFT
IN
BP
SIG
GND
10F
RIGHT
IN
1k
L2 10F
47F
0.47F
10F
LEFT
OUT
GND
SIG
SIG
GND
RIGHT
OUT
SIG
TO CHASSIS
EARTH
L1
47F
150
9
BP
560pF
10F
47F
+
8
L
R
IC9
LM833
560pF
100k
7
3
10F
16k
10
C
150pF
1
390pF
100k
560pF
6
IC5
LM833
BP 10F
10k
.01F
10F
11
5
L
10k
100k
100k
2
PROCESS BYPASS
4
12
FILTER
1
BP
100k
47k
H11F1
10F
10k
BP
150pF
+
2
A
R
10F
11k
1
IC8
100k
1
IC4
BP
200k
.01F
22k
10F
+
3
8
L
OUT
1
R
560pF
10F BP
100k
330pF
0.1F
10k
10k
10k
100k
10F BP
10k
100k
150pF .068F
10F
+
TO
SWITCH S2
PIN NO.
7
470F
16V
+
VR1 10k
330pF
H11F1
SOLDER TO
POT BODY
IC3
M65830P
+
100k
100pF
1
+
BP
+
LEVEL
+
BP
100pF
2MHz
1k
10k
2x
10F
X1
.001F
10k
33F
2.2k
IC2
LM833
+
56k
A
LED1
1M
10F
1
10F
+
K
IC6
LM393
1
+
10F
1k
10k
33F
.015F
BP
56k
560pF
47k
.015F
.0047F
100pF
10k
10k
270
10F
+
100k
47F
10F
+
330pF
Fig.10 (right): this
is the front panel
artwork, reproduced
50% actual size.
10k
10k
.001F
22k
10k
TP3
100pF
2MHz
11k
10pF
4.7k
27k
4.7k
D9 D8
+
+
VR4 50k
X2
BP 10F
1N
4148
VR6
250k
1M
BP 10F
150pF
1N
4148
100k
10pF
10k
10k
TP2
220
47k
47k
.068F
27
100k
1
IC10
TL072
BP
10k
220
SENSITIVITY
1F
0.1F
10k
10F
5.1k
VR3
250k
1
IC11
TL072
LED3
A
Q4
10pF
10F
+
BP
BC338
Q2
+
VR2
250k
10F
BC558
BC338
1N
4148
A
K
TP1
1N
4148
100k
10k
+
220
LED2
Q3
10F
BC558
D7 D6
+
10pF
Q1
K
1
IC16
7555
Fig.9: install the parts on the PC board as shown here. Make sure that all parts are correctly oriented and are mounted in their correct locations.
10k
10k
10F
+
VR5
250k
100k
10k
1
IC13
7555
+
10k
1
IC12
LM393
VR8
250k
100k
1F
REG2
10F
100k
+
1
IC15
LM393
2.2k
LM337
1
IC20
74HC165
22k
47k
D10
22k
6.8k
560pF
1N
4148
+
100k
1F
2.2k
LM317
2200F
100k
REG3
2940-5
+
1k
4.7k
10F
10F
BP
+
100F
100F
0.1F
1
+
10F
10F
IC19
4022
+
+
IC18
4093
4.7k
10F
+
.001F
+
+
IC17
4060
1
D5
1k
+
10F
+
1
2200F
+
10F
Table 1: Capacitor Codes
Value
IEC Code EIA Code
0.47µF 474 470n
0.1µF 104 100n
.068µF 683 68n
.015µF 153 15n
.01µF 103 10n
.0068µF 682 6n8
.0047µF 472 4n7
.001µF 102 1n0
560pF 561 560p
330pF 331 330p
150pF 151 150p
100pF 101 100p
10pF 10 10p
ensure that the earth lugs make good
contact with the bare metal of the case.
Final assembly
The various hardware items – including the power transformer, switch
S2 and the earth lugs – can now be
installed in the case. Use the mounting kit supplied to secure the toroidal
transformer – the large rubber washer
goes directly on top of the transformer,
then the metal washer is positioned
over the top of this and the assembly
secured using the mounting bolt.
Make sure that the mains earth
lug is properly secured – it must be
attached using an M3 screw, nut and
Fig.11: here’s how to wire up the RCA sockets on the rear
panel. These connections must be run using shielded cable.
star washer. We also recommend that
you fit a second lock “nut” to this
assembly, so that it cannot possibly
come loose later on. Once it’s fitted,
use your multimeter to confirm a good
contact between the earth lug and the
various panels of the case. The earth
lug adjacent to the input sockets is
secured using one of the mounting
screws that’s used to secured the
4-way RCA terminal panel.
Begin the wiring by running
shielded cable connections between
the RCA sockets and the PC board
(Fig.11). The adjacent earth lug is
connected to a PC stake on the board
using insulated hookup wire. An additional length of insulated hookup
wire is then run from this point and
soldered to the bodies of potentiom
eters VR1 and VR4.
You will need to scrape away the
Table 2: Resistor Colour Codes
No.
4
2
27
4
2
5
2
2
9
2
4
26
1
2
4
3
8
2
4
4
2
Value
1MΩ
200kΩ
100kΩ
82kΩ
56kΩ
47kΩ
39kΩ
27kΩ
22kΩ
16kΩ
11kΩ
10kΩ
6.8kΩ
5.1kΩ
4.7kΩ
2.2kΩ
1kΩ
270Ω
220Ω
150Ω
27Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black green brown
red black yellow brown
brown black yellow brown
grey red orange brown
green blue orange brown
yellow violet orange brown
orange white orange brown
red violet orange brown
red red orange brown
brown blue orange brown
brown brown orange brown
brown black orange brown
blue grey red brown
green brown red brown
yellow violet red brown
red red red brown
brown black red brown
red violet brown brown
red red brown brown
brown green brown brown
red violet black brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black yellow brown
red black black orange brown
brown black black orange brown
grey red black red brown
green blue black red brown
yellow violet black red brown
orange white black red brown
red violet black red brown
red red black red brown
brown blue black red brown
brown brown black red brown
brown black black red brown
blue grey black brown brown
green brown black brown brown
yellow violet black brown brown
red red black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
red violet black black brown
red red black black brown
brown green black black brown
red violet black gold brown
FEBRUARY 2001 79
INSULATE ALL
EXPOSED MAINS
CONNECTIONS!
250VAC
MAINS
CABLE
F1
CORD
GRIP
GROMMET
LO
W
PANEL
MOUNT
FUSE
HOLDER
SECURE LUG TO
METAL CHASSIS WITH
M3 SCREW, NUT
& STAR WASHER
Fig.12: follow this wiring diagram
exactly to install the mains wiring.
Be sure to use mains-rated cable for
all mains wiring and make sure that
the earth lug makes good contact
with the chassis. All exposed mains
terminations should be sleeved with
heatshrink tubing and the wires
should be laced together using cable
ties – see text and photos.
N
BLU
BR
OW
L
E
E
GREEN/ Y
T1
MT-2082
0V
.001F
250VAC
D5
MAINS RATED
S1
CLASS "X2"
250VAC CAPACITOR
(REAR
VIEW)
passivating coating from the pot bodies so that the solder will “take”. If you
don’t do this, you will get a “dry” joint
for sure and the pot bodies will not be
properly earthed to the signal input.
And that could cause hum problems.
The three LEDs are installed by
pushing them through the holes in the
front panel and then soldering their
leads to the board-mounted PC stakes.
Take care with the lead polarity – the
anode lead is always the longer of the
two and the cathode lead is adjacent
to a flat on the plastic collar of the
LED body.
Switch S2 can be wired to the PC
board using tinned copper wire. Make
sure that the wires are positioned so
that they don’t come in contact with
one another.
Mains wiring
Fig.12 shows the mains wiring details. Exercise extreme caution when
Table 3: Changing Delays For IC3 & IC7 With Linking On IC20
Delay
0.5ms
1.0ms
1.5ms
2.0ms
2.6ms
3.1ms
3.6ms
4.1ms
4.6ms
5.1ms
Pin 12
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
80 Silicon Chip
Pin 13
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
Pin 14
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
+
+
Pin 3
GND
GND
GND
GND
+
+
+
+
GND
GND
Pin 4
GND
GND
+
+
GND
GND
+
+
GND
GND
Pin 5
GND
+
GND
+
GND
+
GND
+
GND
+
9V
0V
9V
D1
D2
D3
D4
470F
+
25V
470F
+
25V
installing this wiring and be sure to
follow Fig.12 exactly – your safety
depends on it.
First, strip back about 380mm from
the outer sheath of the mains cord, so
that the Active (brown) lead has sufficient length to reach both the fuse
and the power switch (S1). This done,
clamp the mains cord into position
using the cordgrip grommet. Check
that the grommet properly clamps the
cord to the chassis; you must NOT be
able to pull the cord back out.
The Active (brown) lead goes to
the centre terminal of the fuseholder
and the excess lead then run between the outside terminal and the
mains switch. Slip a 40mm length
of heatshrink tubing over the two
leads before soldering them to the
fusehold
er. Once the connections
have been made, push the tubing
over the body of the fuseholder (so
that the terminals are covered) and
shrink it down using a hot-air gun.
The connections to the mains
switch are made using fully-insulated female spade terminals. Make sure
that the various leads are all securely
crimped to these terminals before fitting them to the switch terminals (use
the correct crimping tool for the job).
The .001µF 250VAC capacitor is
soldered (using minimum lead length)
directly to the switch terminals, right
at the switch body. It’s important to
solder the leads right at the switch
body, to leave sufficient room for the
spade terminals to be pushed on.
The earth (green/yellow) lead from
the mains cord is soldered directly
to the adjacent earth lug. This lead
should be left long enough so that it
will be the last connection to break if
the mains cord is “reefed” out.
Use four or five cable ties to lace the
mains wiring together, with one tie
close to the mains switch and another close to the fuseholder. This will
ensure that if a lead comes adrift, it
will be secured to the other leads and
the “live” end cannot make contact
with the case.
Finally, connect the transformer
secondary leads to the relevant stakes
on the PC board as shown in Fig.12.
These leads should also be laced
together using cable ties.
Testing, testing
At this stage, you should go over
your work and carefully check the PC
board assembly and chassis wiring.
In particular check that all ICs and
other semiconductors are correctly
orientated and in their correct locations. You should also make certain
that the mains wiring is correct and
that the chassis is properly earthed
(use a multimeter to check for continuity between the chassis and the
earth pin of the mains cord).
Now install the fuse in the fuseholder, then set your multimeter
to the DC volts range and connect
its common lead to the metal tab of
regulator REG3. Apply power and
quickly check that there is +5V at
pin 16 of IC17, +7.5V at pin 8 of IC1
and -7.5V at pin 4 of IC1.
Note that the +7.5V supply rail will
take a second or two to stabilise after
power has been switched on. Also the
voltage could be between 7.3V and
7.9V, depending on the particular
regulator.
If all is OK so far, you can check the
supply rails to the other ICs. There
should be +5V at pin 16 of IC17, IC19
Parts List
1 1U metal rack case (Altronics H
5035 or equivalent)
1 PC board, code 01101011, 311
x 160mm
1 9V 20VA toroidal transformer
(Jaycar MT 2082 or equiv) (T1)
1 SPST mains rocker switch with
neon (S1)
1 2P6W rotary switch (S2)
1 3AG panel-mount safety
fuseholder (F1)
1 150mA 3AG slow blow fuse
1 cordgrip grommet for mains
cable
1 7.5A mains cable and plug
4 rubber feet
1 dual 10kΩ linear 16mm pot (VR1)
1 dual 50kΩ linear 16mm pot (VR4)
6 250kΩ horizontal trimpots
(VR2,VR3,VR5-VR8)
2 RF ferrite beads 5mm long
(L1,L2)
2 16mm black anodised knobs
1 22mm black anodised knob
2 2MHz crystals (X1,X2)
1 7.5A mains power lead and plug
1 35mm length of 15mm diameter
heatshrink tubing
1 4-way RCA socket strip
1 M4 x 10mm screw
1 M4 nut
1 M4 star washer
14 M3 x 6mm screws
2 M3 nuts
6 M3 shakeproof washers
6 M3 tapped spacers 10mm long
1 M4 crimp eyelet lug
1 M3 crimp eyelet lug
3 fully insulated 6.4mm female
spade crimp lugs
1 4m length of 0.8mm tinned
copper wire
1 400mm length of single shielded
cable
1 300mm length of green hookup
wire
6 100mm long cable ties
24 PC stakes
Semiconductors
4 LM833 op amps
(IC1,IC2,IC5,IC9)
2 M65830P or M65830BP (but
NOT 65830AP (IC3,IC7)
2 H11F1 or H11F3 opto FETs
(Quality Technologies QT or
Isocom) (IC4,IC8)
3 LM393 comparators
(IC6,IC12,IC15)
3 TL072, LF353 dual op amps
(IC10,IC11,IC14)
2 7555 timers (IC13,IC16)
1 74HC165 8-bit shift register
(IC20)
1 4022 divide by 8-counter (IC19)
1 4060 binary counter (IC17)
1 4093 quad dual NAND Schmitt
trigger (IC18)
1 LM317T adjustable positive
regulator (REG1)
1 LM337T adjustable negative
regulator (REG2)
1 7805 5V regulator (REG3)
2 BC328 PNP transistor (Q1,Q3)
2 BC338 NPN transistor (Q2,Q4)
3 3mm red LEDs (LED1-LED3)
5 1N4004 1A diodes (D1-D5)
5 1N4148, 1N914 diodes (D6-D10)
Capacitors
2 2200µF 16VW PC electrolytic
2 470µF 25VW PC electrolytic
2 470µF 16VW PC electrolytic
2 100µF 16VW PC electrolytic
2 47µF 25VW electrolytic
2 47µF bipolar electrolytic
2 33µF bipolar electrolytic
21 10µF 16VW electrolytic
15 10µF bipolar electrolytic
6 1µF bipolar electrolytic
1 0.47µF MKT polyester
9 0.1µF MKT polyester
4 .068µF MKT polyester
2 .015µF MKT polyester
2 .01µF MKT polyester
2 .0068µF MKT polyester
2 .0047µF MKT polyester
1 .001µF 250VAC X2 class
polyester
3 .001µF MKT polyester
7 560pF ceramic
4 330pF ceramic
8 150pF ceramic
6 100pF ceramic
4 10pF ceramic
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
4 1MΩ
26 10kΩ
2 200kΩ
1 6.8kΩ
27 100kΩ
2 5.1kΩ
4 82kΩ
4 4.7kΩ
2 56kΩ
3 2.2kΩ
5 47kΩ
8 1kΩ
2 39kΩ
2 270Ω
2 27kΩ
4 220Ω
9 22kΩ
4 150Ω
2 16kΩ
2 27Ω
4 11kΩ
FEBRUARY 2001 81
This is the view inside the completed unit. Keep the mains wiring tidy and make sure that the cord is properly secured.
& IC20, pin 14 of IC18 and pins 1 & 24
of IC3 & IC7. Pin 8 of all the 8-pin ICs
should be at +7.5V. Similarly, pin 4 of
all the 8-pin ICs should be at -7.5V,
except for IC13 & IC16.
IC13 & IC16 should have +7.5V at
pins 4 & 8 and -7.5V at pin 1.
Assuming that all these voltages
check out, you now have to adjust
the voltage offsets using the onboard trimpots. The procedure is as
follows:
(1). Connect a multimeter to test point
TP1 and adjust VR2 slowly until the
voltage is below about ±60mV DC.
This done, connect the meter to TP3
and adjust VR6 for a similar value.
Note: this adjustment is a little tricky,
as the voltage will jump suddenly
from a positive value to a negative
value, so proceed slowly here.
(2) Monitor test point TP2 and adjust
VR3 for 0mV, or as close to this as
possible.
(3) Monitor test point TP4 and adjust
VR7 for a 0mV reading.
(4) Set trimpot VR4 to mid-position
and adjust trimpot VR5 so that the left
blanking LED (LED2) is just past the
threshold of turning off (ie, the LED
should just remain off). Adjust VR8
so that LED3 also just remains off.
82 Silicon Chip
You are now ready to give the LP
Doctor a test run. To do this, connect
a turntable to the inputs and connect
the outputs to an auxiliary (line
level) input on a stereo amplifier
(use shielded leads fitted with RCA
connectors for this job).
Note that you must not connect to
the LP Doctor’s outputs to the phono inputs on your amplifier. That’s
because the LP Doctor has its own
inbuilt RIAA phono preamplifier and
you’ll really mess the sound up if you
then feed the signal through another
phono preamp stage.
Now set the Sensitivity pot (VR4)
fully anticlockwise, play an LP and
adjust the Level pot (VR1) so that the
clipping LED (LED1) just flashes on
high level signals. You can then test
the three positions for rotary switch
S2 – ie, Bypass, Process and Process
& Filter.
In the Bypass mode, any clicks
and pops on the LP will still be
heard since no processing takes
place. Switching to the Process mode
should eliminate many of these clicks
and pops, provided the sensitivity
control is adjusted correctly. This
control should be set so that the
blanking LEDs light when there is
a click or pop but not for normal
program material.
The third position (Process & Filter) should not only reduce clicks
and pops but should reduce high
frequency noise as well.
Changing delay times
Finally, some readers may want
to experiment with different delay
times for the delay chips (IC3 & IC7).
This can be done by changing the
connections to the D1-D6 inputs (ie,
pins 12, 13, 14, 3, 4 & 5) of IC20. Table
3 shows the connections required for
delays ranging from 0.5ms to 5.1ms
in 0.5ms steps, which should be
sufficient for experimenters.
The PC board has been designed
to make these changes easy. All you
have to do is cut the thinned track
sec
t ions which connect each pin
to the +5V or GND rail and solder a
bridge to the alternative rail instead.
Note that the pattern originally sets
the delay to 1ms – ie, pin 5 high and
the remaining pins low.
Note also that the delay times for
7555 timers IC13 & IC16 must be
greater than the set delay time for IC3
& IC7. This means that the .0068µF
capacitor at pins 6 & 7 of IC13 & IC16
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should be changed when longer delays are programmed.
The delay time for IC13 & IC16 is
equal to 1.1RC, where R is the resistor
value (1MΩ) and C is the capacitor
value on pins 6 & 7. Use the next
available capacitor value up from the
SC
calculated value required.
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FEBRUARY 2001 83
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