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Curing thumps in
subwoofer amplifier
I have recently built the Plastic
Power amplifier module from the
April 1996 issue and an active
crossover for subwoofers and
have coupled them together to
make quite a powerful mono subwoofer system. The problem I am
experiencing is speaker “turn-on
thumps”. I noticed Jaycar stocked
a kit called a “Universal Loudspeaker Protector” (Cat. KC-5220)
which eliminates turn-on thumps
and so I bought the kit.
I was wondering if you could
tell me which wiring diagram I
should be following in the instruction guide so as to achieve
the result I’m after. I am not sure
how to go about hooking up the
unit to a mono mains amplifier
current. You need a bigger heatsink.
The Drill Speed Controller of Septem
ber 1992 is not suitable because it will
not let your router run at full speed
(about 80% at no load) and nor will
it give a soft start.
You need our 10A Speed Control
published in November 1997. This
will let power tools run at full speed
(as well as being variable over a wide
range) and will also give a current-limited start which stops the kick from
routers, circular saws etc. We can
supply the November 1997 issue for
$7.70 including postage.
Excessive hash from the
sine/square generator
I recently bought and built the
Sine/Square Generator described in
the February 2000 issue. I followed
the layouts and instructions to the
such as mine. (L. B., via email).
• The loudspeaker protector you
have was described in the April
1997 issue of SILICON CHIP and
should be assembled as per Fig.5
on page 58 of the same issue. Its
power requirements can be obtained from the power amplifier
positive supply rail. Connect the
protector PC board power connections to the GND and positive
supply of the power amplifier.
Note that the supply resistor RY
should be 220Ω 5W.
Since your amplifier is a mono
unit, you need only use one side
of the relay. Connect the amplifier output to the Amplifier
1 output connection on the PC
board. The GND goes to amplifier
GND and the Speaker 1 output on
the PC board is for the speaker
connection.
letter but the final result was pretty
well unusable for my requirements
of testing aspects of my home-built
stereo system.
There was appalling audible hash
and at some frequency settings really
messy waveforms were produced.
Inspection with a CRO showed that
the output from the TL071 was dirtier than the input! This was traced
to the -5V rail which had nearly 1V
p-p hash on it. This was cured with a
47µF capacitor across the 0.1µF which
is clearly inadequate on its own. The
+5V rail has a 100µF bypass; why not
the -5V rail?
This mod basically turned the unit
into a usable one, although further
reduction of very high frequency
hash requires some shielded cabling –
which again should really be included
in the kit. (M. S., via email).
• The oscilloscope waveforms from
WARNING!
Fig.3 to Fig.8 in the February 2000
issue show that the output from our
prototype is rela
tively clean from
hash. Perchance you have a low-spec
79L05 regulator.
Having said that, we agree that
there could be improvements made by
using shielded cable for the level and
range controls and from the output
to prevent pickup from the switching circuitry. This would make the
circuit more suited to critical audio
applications.
Combiner needed for
two UHF antennas
I have recently moved to an area
where television is all in the UHF
region. I need two antennas pointing
in different directions. Is there a preferred method of joining the output
from these two? Commercial joiners
seem to be UHF + VHF not UHF +
UHF. (T. S., via email).
• You need a splitter/combiner. Normally used as a splitter, if you use it
the other way, you can combine two
signals into one, instead of splitting
one signal into two. Get it? When you
go to purchase your splitter, ensure
that it can also be used as a combiner,
eg, Altronics Cat L-1310 2-way.
Notes and Errata
12/24 Hour Giant Clock, March 2001:
The 10µF capacitor on the overlay
adjacent to ZD1 should be a 100µF
as shown on the cir
cuit. Also the
LDR should be a Jaycar RD-3480 not
RD-3485.
The description for easy daylight
saving setting is incorrect. Changing
to daylight saving requires the hour
switch to be pressed once to set it to
the next hour. Returning to standard
time requires the hour switch to be
pressed until the previous hour is
SC
selected.
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage. All such
projects should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely. Readers are warned that high voltage wiring should be
carried out according to the instructions in the articles. When working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do
not accidentally come into contact with mains AC voltages or high voltage DC. If you are not confident about working with projects
employing mains voltages or other high voltages, you are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd
disclaims any liability for damages should anyone be killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue of
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liability for the infringement of such patents by the manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also disclaims
any liability for projects which are used in such a way as to infringe relevant government regulations and by-laws.
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