This is only a preview of the May 2001 issue of Silicon Chip. You can view 33 of the 104 pages in the full issue, including the advertisments. For full access, purchase the issue for $10.00 or subscribe for access to the latest issues. Articles in this series:
Items relevant to "Using Linux To Share An Internet Connection; Pt.1":
Articles in this series:
Items relevant to "Powerful 12V Mini Stereo Amplifier":
Items relevant to "Two White-LED Torches To Build":
Items relevant to "PowerPak: A Multi-Voltage Power Supply":
Purchase a printed copy of this issue for $10.00. |
Getting lots of power from an amplifier when you only have 12V to play with
Powerful, 12V
Mini Stereo
Amplifier
by JOHN CLARKE
Many commercial 12V amplifiers can’t deliver much power,
despite sometimes amazing claims to the contrary. This little
stereo amplifier can: up to 18W per channel into 4Ω speakers
and with the added bonus of volume, bass and treble controls.
I
(wryly!) is when we see consumer
t’s small and compact and can de- the output devices with a 12V supply
liver quite a punch to your loud- is 6V in the positive direction and 6V “hifi” claiming 50W output or more
– and they take six “C” cell batteries.
speakers. Controls are simple, with in the negative direction. This equals
bass and treble controls which can about 4.25V RMS (6/1.4142).
Oh yeah?
be used to brighten up your listening
Power output equals the square of
So how can this stereo amplifier
pleasure and a volume control to set the RMS voltage divided by the load
produce any more output power?
you rocking.
resistance (P=I2/R), so we get 4.25 x
The trick is to use two amplifiIt makes a great little amplifier for your
4.25 / 4, or about 4.5W.
ers, one to push current one direcWalkman, persontion through the
al CD or mini-disc
speaker and the
SPECIFICATIONS
player, etc. And it
other to push curPower output :
see graphs
can be operated from
rent the opposite
see graphs
a 12V battery or good Distortion:
direction.
Tone controls:
see graphs
12V power supply.
When one amW h e t h e r y o u Frequency response:
plifier drives the
-3dB <at> 10Hz and 100kHz
want an amplifier Sensitivity for full power output: 50mV RMS
loudspeaker in
for your car, boat, Signal to noise ratio:
a positive volt-69dB with respect to full output power
caravan or for some
age direction, the
(20Hz to 20kHz filter, -78dB A weighted)
other 12V appli-
second amplifier
-46dB at 100Hz, -36dB at 1kHz and 10kHz
cation, it is often Channel separation:
drives the louddifficult to find a
speaker in a negdesign which will
ative voltage direction.
produce very much power output.
However, even this 4.5W is a theThis means that the voltage across
oretical maximum and the output the loudspeaker is effectively double
It is just an unfortunate fact of life
that at 12V the very absolute maximum power is more likely to be closer to 3W
that of a single amplifier driver.
power that can be delivered into a 4Ω due to losses in the output devices of
Now from the formula above, we can
the amplifier.
load is 4.5W.
see that doubling the voltage swing efAs an aside, one of those little
The reason for this is that the maxfectively quadruples the output power.
imum voltage “swing” possible from mysteries of life which make us smile So if we use two typical amplifiers
28 Silicon Chip
which on their own can only deliver
4.5W into 4Ω we can expect to obtain
about 18W into the same load (but with
a 14.4V supply).
Again, there are a few limiting factors which mean we cannot get this
theoretical maximum without a fair
bit of distortion but this little amp delivers about 14-15W before it “hits the
hump” and, if you’re prepared to put
up with distortion, up to about 18W – a
lot better than 4.5W, you would agree!
(Having listened to many, many
car stereos and ghetto blasters being
driven into massive distortion, it’s
not unreasonable to suggest that many
users don’t care. As long as it’s LOUD!)
You might have noticed that we call
this a “12V” amplifier yet our tests
were done using a 14.4V supply.
The 12V is a “nominal” figure. This
is quite legitimate because virtually all
vehicles run with more than 12V DC
when the motor is running. That extra
couple of volts is also handy in giving
us an extra few watts!
and treble controls to the front of the
amplifier to improve its versatility.
Most components mount onto a single PC board. It’s just the right size for
mounting in a small plastic instrument
case so you can really dress up your
project if you want to.
The circuit
The circuit for the stereo amplifier is
shown in Fig.1. Only the left channel
is shown, based on IC2, with the right
channel (IC3) pin numbering shown in
brackets. Both channels “share” IC1,
each using two of its four op amps.
Signal is applied to the left channel
via the 10µF bipolar capacitor and
10kΩ log volume potentiometer, VR1.
Output from the wiper of VR1 is
AC-coupled to the non-inverting input
of one of IC1’s op amps (pin 10) via a
0.22µF capacitor in series with a 1kΩ
AUDIO PRECISION SCTHD-W THD+N(%) vs measured LEVEL(W)
10
30 APR 100 06:34:48
1
Special IC
The 12V Stereo Amplifier uses a
hybrid IC package which incorporates all the amplifier circuitry into
the one unit. All we need to make it
fully operational is to add a few extra
components, connect up a speaker and
input signal, apply power and we have
a ready-built amplifier.
It could be that simple – but we
have added a volume control and bass
0.1
0.1
1
10
20
Here’s proof: with a 14.4V supply and a 4Ω load, the amplifier does indeed
produce up to 18W, albeit with a fair bit of distortion. The horizontal scale is
output power (in watts); the vertical is total harmonic distortion (THD).
MAY 2001 29
Believe it or not, this photo of the inside of the amplifier is actually larger-than-life, so you can get a good idea of just how
tiny it is! The photo also shows all the component locations in glorious living colour.
stopper resistor. This resistor helps
prevent RF pickup.
The 100kΩ resistor connects to the
half-supply rail, which biases op amp
IC1a at mid-supply voltage. This sets
up the op amp to provide symmetrical
voltage swing about the mid voltage.
The tone controls
IC1a is connected as a unity gain
buffer to provide a low impedance
drive to the following tone control
circuitry. The tone controls are based
on op amp IC1b and potentiometers
VR2 & VR3. These pots and their as30 Silicon Chip
sociated resistors and capacitors form
the feedback between the op amp’s
inverting input and output.
Each of the bass and treble stages
can be considered separately since
they are connected in parallel between
the signal input following IC1a and the
inverting input (pin 2) to IC2 which is
a virtual ground.
Operation of the bass control is as
follows: with VR2 centred, the same
value of resistance is connected between the input from IC1a and the
inverting input to IC1b as is between
IC1b’s output and inverting input.
Thus the gain is set at -1 (the minus
symbol doesn’t mean less than zero
in this case, it means that the output
is inverted with respect to the input).
The .01µF capacitor has no effect
since it is equally balanced across the
potentiometer.
However, if we move the wiper
of VR2 fully toward the input side
(toward the IC1a output), the resistance becomes unbalanced and there
is a 22kΩ resistance between input
and the inverting input to IC1b and
122kΩ (100kΩ + 22kΩ) between the
inverting input and output. (We can
ignore the other 22kΩ resistor in the
wiper as its job is simply to isolate the
two pots). Also the .01µF capacitor
is across the 100kΩ resistance in the
feedback between IC1b’s output and
inverting input.
Without the capacitor the gain
would be -122kΩ/ 22kΩ or -5.5 at all
frequencies. The .001µF capacitor and
100kΩ resistance forms a rolloff above
100Hz so that below this frequency
the gain remains at -5.5 or 14.8dB but
above 100Hz the gain reduces towards
-1 as the frequency increases. Thus we
have boost at and below 100Hz.
When the wiper is brought to the
IC1b output side, the resistive gain
becomes 22kΩ/122kΩ or -0.18 or
-14.8dB. The capacitor is now on the
input side and provides less gain at
frequencies below 100Hz but with gain
increasing to -1 at frequencies above
100Hz. Thus we have bass cut. Various
settings of VR2 between these two extremes will provide less boost or cut.
The treble section works in a similar manner except that there is now
a .0047µF capacitor in series with the
input and output. This produces a
high frequency boost or cut at 10kHz.
The 10pF capacitor between IC1b’s
inverting input and output provides
high frequency rolloff, preventing
instability.
The amplifier(s)
The High Power 12V Amplifier is
based on IC2 (or IC3), a Philips TDA1519A car radio power amplifier
module. This incorporates all the
complexity found in much higher
power amplifiers.
It has output protection against
short circuits, good supply ripple
rejection, overheating protection, reverse polarity protection, overvolt-age
shutdown and is protected against
static discharge. The best part is that
it is virtually indestructible within
its limits.
The TDA1519A contains the two
power amplifiers. The first power amplifier is non-inverting with its input at
pin 1 and output at pin 4. The second
amplifier is inverting with its input
at pin 9 while its output is at pin 6.
When both these amplifiers are fed
Fig. 1: not much to it, is there? The
amplifier modules (one for each channel) do most of the work. Only the left
channel is shown here as the right
channel is identical.
MAY 2001 31
Fig. 2: all the components, including the three
potentiometers, mount
on the one PC board, so
once you’ve finished the
PC board off you’re about
90% of the way to sitting
back and listening to your
handywork! The final wiring diagram is overleaf.
the same signal, their outputs have
amplified signals which are effectively
“mirror images” of each other, or 180°
out of phase. This is described as
“bridge mode” operation.
The pin 3 input is for decoupling
of a half-supply rail internal to the
amplifier module. Pin 7 is the positive
supply input while pins 2 and 5 are
the signal and power grounds.
Pin 8 is a mute and standby input
which selects the amplifier to be ac-
tive or on when connected to the pin
7 supply. When pin 8 is open circuit,
the amplifier is effectively turned off
and the quiescent current drawn by
the circuit is around 100µA.
This input is best used to provide the
on and off switching since pin 8 draws
a low current and we can use a lowcost switch. If we were to switch the
12V supply on and off with a switch,
then we would need a switch rated at
4A or more.
Signal input to the amplifier is applied to both the non-inverting amplifier input and the inverting amplifier
input via a 1µF coupling capacitor.
Input impedance is 25kΩ for this
bridged mode of operation and so the
low frequency rolloff is at 6Hz.
The series 10Ω resistor provides
some protection against RF pickup
which could otherwise be amplified
by IC2. The 12V supply is decoupled
by a 2200µF and 0.1µF capacitor for
each amplifier IC.
The outputs of IC2 and IC3 appear
at pins 4 and 6 and are connected
to Zobel networks comprising 10Ω
resistors and 0.1µF capacitors. These
help prevent instability in the power
amplifiers.
Construction
The front panel components of the amplifier, taken from the rear. Note the green
earth wire which solders to the shield, the three pots and back to the PC board.
32 Silicon Chip
The 12V Stereo Amplifier is constructed on a PC board coded 01105011
and measuring 117 x 100mm. It is
housed in a small plastic instrument
case measuring 140 x 110 x 38mm.
Begin by installing the wire links
and the resistors on the PC board. Use
the accompanying resistor colour code
Parts List – 12V Amplifier
Both the amplifier modules mount on the heatsink/rear panel but must be
insulated from it. Note also the insulation on the wires which go through the
rear panel to the speaker connectors. You don’t want a short here!
table as a guide to selecting the correct
value or use a digital multimeter to
measure each one.
Now insert the PC stakes for the
three input terminals, the power inputs and for the switch.
Capacitors can be inserted next
–take care to correctly orient the electro-lytics with the polarity as shown.
Diode D1 and IC1 are also polarised
and inserted as shown.
The amplifier ICs can be mounted
by firstly bending the leads at 90°
about 12mm away from the body of
the package. These can be inserted into
the PC board holes. Do not solder the
amplifiers in position yet.
The potentiometer shafts are first cut
to length, suitable for the knobs used,
their distance from the front panel
and the type of box (if any) you will
be mounting the amplifier in.
Before you insert and solder the pots
directly into the PC board holes, scrape
away a small portion of the coating on
the top of each potent-iometer. You
will shortly need to solder an earth
wire to the pots and it can be very
hard to solder to the passivated metal
surface.
The heatsink
We don’t use the rear panel of the
case; instead, it is replaced by an integral panel/heatsink made from 1.5mm
aluminium. Its dimensions are shown
in Fig.5.
Before folding the heatsink/panel,
you will need to drill holes for the DC
socket, the fuseholder, the loudspeaker
terminals and mounting screws and
for the RCA sockets. Holes are also
required for the amplifier ICs.
A shield is also required on the
base of the case. This can be made
from either insulated aluminium foil
glued to the case, or from a piece of
single- sided PC board. Drill holes to
This straight-on view of the rear panel/heatsink gives you a good idea of where
the various sockets and the fuseholder are located. By the way, you can connect
just about anything from a Walkman or minidisc to a CD/DVD player or tuner
into the input sockets. You could even plug an electric guitar in for practice!
1 PC board coded 01105011,
117 x 100mm
1 plastic instrument case, 140 x
110 x 38mm
1 piece of aluminium, 50 x 135 x
1.5mm
1 100 x 115mm single sided PC
board or insulated aluminium
foil (for shield – see text)
1 10kΩ dual-ganged 16mm log
pot (VR1)
1 100kΩ dual-ganged 16mm
linear pot (VR2)
1 50kΩ dual-ganged 16mm linear pot (VR3)
1 dual insulated RCA panel
socket
1 4-way loudspeaker terminal
strip 64 x 17mm
1 SPST rocker switch
1 M203 fuse holder
1 5A M203 fast blow fuse
1 DC power socket
2 TOP3 insulating washers
5 M3 x 6mm screws
6 M3 x 10mm screws
2 M3 x 15 Nylon screws
10 M3 nuts
2 M3 solder or crimp lugs
1 150mm length of 0.8mm tinned
copper wire
1 230mm length of green
hookup wire
1 80mm length of red hookup
wire
1 100mm length of black hookup
wire
1 100mm length of blue hookup
wire
Semiconductors
1 TL074 quad op amp (IC1)
2 TDA1519A or TDA1519C 12V
stereo amplifiers (IC2,IC3)
1 IN5404 3A diode (D1)
Capacitors
2 2200µF 25VW PC electrolytic
2 100µF 16VW PC electrolytic
1 10µF 16VW PC electrolytic
4 10µF bipolar electrolytic
2 1µF bipolar electrolytic
2 0.22µF MKT polyester
6 0.1µF MKT polyester
2 .01µF MKT polyester
4 .0047µF MKT polyester
2 10pF ceramic
Resistors (0.25W 1%)
4 100kΩ 4 22kΩ
2 10kΩ
4 4.7kΩ
4 1kΩ
6 10Ω
MAY 2001 33
Fig.3 (left): there’s very
little wiring to do as most
is taken care of by the PC
board. Don’t leave the
earth wire out (shown in
green) or forget to solder
to the pot bodies as your
amplifier could be very
sensitive to hum and
noise.
Fig.4 (above): here’s
how to mount the power
amplifier ICs to both the
PC board and the rear
panel/heatsink.
Fig.5: use this diagram as a template to both
cut and fold your rear panel/heatsink but drill
the holes for the connectors and fuses first.
accommodate the integral standoffs in
the base of the case.
You will require a securing screw
and nut plus a solder lug to make
contact with the aluminium foil. For
a PC board shield you can simply
solder a wire directly to the board. Fit
insulation (eg, a sheet of self-adhesive
plastic) to the top side to prevent con34 Silicon Chip
tact with the amplifier PC board (if you
use a PC board for the shield, simply
fit it upside down).
Drill holes in the front panel for the
power switch and pot shafts using the
front panel label as a guide to the hole
positions. Attach the front panel label
in position.
Attach the components to the heat-
sink making sure that the RCA sockets
are insulated from the metal, and stand
the loudspeaker terminals off the
heatsink with an extra M3 nut. This
will allow extra cooling area for the
heatsink. Secure the heatsink to the
amplifier PC board using the screws
and nuts as shown in the amplifier
mounting details in Fig.4.
The insulating washers are made
from TOP3 insulators which are cut
to shape. Cut a notch in the side of
the washers in the positions required
for the securing screws. If you use a
mica washer, use heatsink compound
between the two mating surfaces of the
heatsink and amplifier package. No
compound is necessary for silicone
washers.
Place the shield into the base of the
case and the PC board and heatsink
into the case. Note which of the inner
mounting bushes in the case foul any
of the pigtails on the underside of the
PC board and cut them off or grind
them down.
Place the front panel in position.
and secure the PC board in place with
the corner mounting screws.
Wire up the amplifier PC board as
shown. We used heatshrink tubing
over the loudspeaker terminal wiring
to prevent shorting to the case. Also
don’t forget to connect the wire which
connects to the DC socket, negative
Here’s how the heatsink/rear panel looks when folded up and secured to the PC
board. The screws which hold the power amps in place also hold the heatsink
in place. Drill the holes for these and the input/output sockets before folding.
terminal on the PC board, the three
pots and the shield.
Testing
Full testing of the amplifier will require a 12V supply which can deliver
This photo shows the scrap of thin aluminium we used to make the shield for
the bottom of the plastic case – you could use a scrap of PC board if you wish.
Insulate the alumininium with plastic sheet. The doodles are an optional extra.
Resistor Colour Codes
No. Value 4-Band Code (1%) 5-Band Code (1%)
4 100kΩ brown black yellow brown brown black black orange brown
4 22kΩ red red orange brown red red black red brown
2 10kΩ brown black orange brown brown black black red brown
4 4.7kΩ yellow violet red brown yellow violet black brown brown
4 1kΩ
brown black red brown brown black black brown brown
6 10Ω
brown black black brown brown black black gold
up to 4A but a lower current supply
can be used for initial testing. Most
12V SLA (sealed lead acid) batteries,
even those rated lower than 4A, will
deliver 4A for a short time.
Also note that most “12V” car battery chargers deliver significantly more
than 12V (they have to, to charge!) but
more importantly do not include any
filtering and so are unsuitable for use
as a DC supply.
Without a speaker connected at this
stage, apply power and check that
there is 12V between pins 2 and 7 of
IC2 and IC3. This voltage should also
be between pins 4 and 11 of IC1. Check
for about 6V at pins 3 and 5 of IC1 and
at pin 3 of IC2 and IC3.
Further testing is done by listening:
connect a speaker to the outputs and
apply a signal to the input. Turn the
volume pot to minimum and apply
power. Check that the amplifier can
be switched on and off at the power
switch and that the amplifier does amplify – ie, the volume control works!
Also check that the tone controls
operate as expected.
Note that if you are using a power
supply to drive the amplifier, it may
prevent the amplifier delivering full
power during transients. If this hap-
Capacitor Codes
Value IEC code EIA code
0.22uF
220n
224
0.1uF
100n
104
.01uF
10n
103
.0047uF
4n7
472
10pF
10p
10
MAY 2001 35
Figs.6 & 7 (right): Full-size artwork
for the PC board and front panel.
You can make your own PC board
using this artwork (see how in March
2001 SILICON CHIP) or use it to check
commercial boards. The front panel
artwork can also be used as a drilling
template.
pens, the signal may go off as the
muting voltage threshold is reached
when the power supply level drops.
This occurs at around 8.5V.
Using a 12V battery should allow
the amplifier to drive the loudspeakers to full power.
The amplifier can be run from
slightly higher voltage and will give
even more power output if it is.
Car electrical systems normally
don’t run at 12V, at least healthy ones
don’t – most run at 13.8V or even
14.4V when the motor is running.
This amplifier is designed to
handle that voltage. The absolute
maximum voltage rating of the power
amplifier ICs is 17.5V so make sure
your supply cannot ever exceed this
or you may do some permanent damage.
Speakers
You can use a huge variety
of speakers with this little
amplifier – in fact, just about
anything you can lay your
hands on!
AUDIO PRECISION FREQRESP AMPL(dBr) vs FREQ(Hz)
20.000
26 APR 100 08:33:40
15.000
10.000
5.0000
0.0
-5.000
-10.00
-15.00
-20.00
20
100
1k
10k
20k
This graph shows the tone control responses with full bass boost, full treble
boost, full bass cut and no boost. Note the flat response when the controls
are set flat.
36 Silicon Chip
Even speakers rated at less than
the 18W output power can be used,
just as long as you don’t wind the
wick up too far!
The amplifier is designed to use
4Ω speakers and will deliver maximum power into 4Ω. Most car audio
speakers are 4Ω for this reason.
However, the amplifier will operate quite happily into 8Ω speakers
but you will only get half the power
output of 4Ω speakers.
There is a common misconception
that large speakers require more
power to drive than small speakers.
This is not usually the case – a
larger speaker tends to be more efficient than a small one of similar
ratings so all else being equal, will
sound louder when driven by the
same amplifier.
If you have an old pair of hifi
speakers gathering dust somewhere,
try them with this amp – you could
be pleasantly surprised at both the
volume and the sound quality! SC
|