This is only a preview of the June 2002 issue of Silicon Chip. You can view 28 of the 96 pages in the full issue, including the advertisments. For full access, purchase the issue for $10.00 or subscribe for access to the latest issues. Articles in this series:
Items relevant to "Remote Volume Control For Stereo Amplifiers":
Items relevant to "The Matchless Metal Locator":
Items relevant to "Compact 0-80A Automotive Ammeter":
Articles in this series:
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Keep tabs on your
car’s battery charge
and discharge currents
with this dual-display
ammeter. It includes
a 3-digit display to
indicate the current
in amperes, as well
as a bargraph to show
the charge/discharge
trend at a glance.
By JOHN CLARKE
I
T’S NOW RARE TO SEE an ammeter installed in a car. Instead,
virtually all modern (and not so
modern) cars have an “idiot” light to
indicate battery charging. Normally,
this light is off when the engine is
running and only comes on if the
alternator fails; ie, when no charge is
being delivered.
Apart from that, it doesn’t provide
any other information during normal
driving.
This means that when the light
is out, you have no idea how much
current is going into the battery or is
being pulled out. And even when an
ammeter was fitted, it was hardly what
you would call a precision instrument.
Most only gave a very rough idea of
what happening.
However, if you are an enthusiast,
you will want to know more about battery charge and discharge rates. This
Automotive Ammeter can provide
62 Silicon Chip
this information with a high degree
of accuracy.
Why is it important?
Knowing the charging state of the
battery is important since it’s a major component of the cars’ electrical
system. If the battery isn’t charging
properly, you could be left stranded.
When the engine is running, the
alternator normally provides all the
power for the electrical loads and
keeps the battery topped up. However,
if there is insufficient charging current,
the battery will gradually discharge.
This can typically occur if the electrical load is high while the engine
is idling, or if the connections to the
battery are faulty or the battery itself
is on the way out.
Measuring the battery current involves measuring the current flowing
in all the leads to one of the battery’s
terminals. In addition, it’s necessary to
MAIN FEATURES
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Compact size
Includes 7-LED bargraph display plus 2-digit readout
±0-30A indication on bargraph
in 5A steps
1A resolution on 2-digit display
Typical 80A maximum reading
Dual indication for charge and
discharge
Automatic display dimming in
low light conditions
determine the direction of the current,
so that we know whether the battery is
being charged or discharged.
Hall effect sensor
The SILICON CHIP Automotive Amwww.siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: the PIC microcontroller (IC1) processes the signal from the Hall effect
sensor (Sensor 1) and drives the 7-segment LED displays and the LED bargraph.
LDR1, VR1 & IC2b automatically vary the display brightness according to the
ambient light conditions.
meter measures the battery current using a Hall effect sensor. This monitors
the magnetic field produced by current
flow in the battery leads.
Fig.2 shows the sensor details.
A ferrite core is placed around the
battery leads, with the Hall sensor
positioned in the air-gap. The leads
from the battery produce a magnetic
flux when ever current flows and this
is induced into the ferrite core. This
magnetic flux then passes through the
sensor, which in turn produces a voltage that’s proportional to the current
in the leads.
What’s more, the output of the
Hall effect device goes positive for
one direction of current and negative
for the other. So the same sensor can
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determine both the magnitude of the
current and its direction.
Main features
The SILICON CHIP Automotive Ammeter is housed in a small plastic case
and matches the style of our previous
PIC-based automotive projects. As
before, the readout uses LED displays
set behind a Perspex window in the
lid. In this unit, there are three 7-segment LED displays and one bargraph
display. The 7-segment displays show
the current, with the lefthand digit
showing a minus sign when the battery
is being discharged.
The vertical LED bargraph on the
righthand side of the front panel consists of seven LEDs and operates in dot
mode. The centre LED indicates zero
amps (0A) while the three LEDs above
this progressively light in 10A-steps
for currents of 10-19A, 20-29A and
30A and above.
The bargraph resolution is increased
somewhat by making it possible for
more than one LED come on at a time.
Thus, the 0A and 10A LEDs both light
for currents from 5-9A; the 10A and
20A LEDs both light for currents from
15-19A; and the 20A and 30A LEDs
both light for currents from 25-29A.
The three LEDs below the 0A LED
indicate the discharge cur
rent and
operate in exactly the same manner –
but in the opposite direction.
As with our previous instruments,
we’ve included automatic dimming
and this varies the display brightness
according to the ambient light level.
That way, the displays are nice and
bright for daytime viewing but are
June 2002 63
Parts List
1 microcontroller PC board, code,
05106021, 78 x 50mm
1 display PC board, code,
05106022, 78 x 50mm
1 Hall Effect PC board, code
05106023, 20 x 12mm
1 front panel label, 80 x 53mm
1 plastic case utility case, 83 x 54
x 30mm
1 Perspex or Acrylic transparent
red sheet, 56 x 20 x 3mm
2 plastic spacers, 1.5mm thick
(12 x 7mm)
1 Ferrite core suppressor for
12.5mm cables (DSE D-5375,
Jaycar LF-1290 or similar)
1 4MHz parallel resonant crystal
(X1)
1 LDR (Jaycar RD-3480 or
equivalent)
8 PC stakes
3 7-way pin head launchers
1 5-way 2.54mm DIL jumper
launcher
1 jumper shunt (2.54mm spacing)
2 DIP-14 low cost IC sockets
with wiper contacts (cut for 3 x
7-way single in-line sockets)
1 9mm long x 3mm ID untapped
brass spacer
1 6mm long x 3mm ID untapped
brass spacer
2 6mm long Nylon M3 tapped
spacers
2 M3 x 6mm countersunk screws
2 Nylon M3 washers (1mm thick)
or 1 Nylon M3 nut (2mm thick)
2 M3 x 15mm brass screws
4 150mm cable ties
1 2m length of red automotive
wire
1 2m length of black or green
automotive wire (ground wire)
1 2m length of 2-core screened
cable
turned down at night so that they
don’t become distracting. The degree
of display dimming is adjustable with
a trimpot.
The accompanying panel shows the
other features of the unit. In particular,
the maximum reading is 80A and the
resolution is 1A. If the current goes
above 80A, the unit overloads and
displays “OL” on the middle and left
7-segment readouts.
Best of all, you don’t need to be a
64 Silicon Chip
1 500kΩ horizontal trimpot (code
504) (VR1)
Semiconductors
1 PIC16F84P microcontroller with
AMMETER.HEX program (IC1)
1 LM358 dual op amp (IC2)
1 UGN3503 linear Hall Effect
sensor (SENSOR1)
1 7805 5V 1A 3-terminal regulator
(REG1)
4 BC327 PNP transistors (Q1-Q4)
1 BC337 NPN transistor (Q5)
3 HDSP5301, LTS542R common
anode 7-segment LED displays
(DISP1-DISP3)
1 10-LED red vertical bargraph
(Jaycar Cat. ZD-1704 or equiv.)
1 16V 1W zener diode (ZD1)
Capacitors
1 100µF16VW PC electrolytic
1 10µF low leakage (LL) 16VW
PC electrolytic or tantalum
1 10µF 16VW PC electrolytic
3 0.1µF MKT polyester
2 15pF ceramic
Resistors (0.25W 1%)
3 100kΩ
1 1kΩ
1 47kΩ
4 680Ω
1 10kΩ
7 150Ω
1 3.3kΩ
1 10Ω 1W
1 1.8kΩ
Calibration parts (optional)
1 8m length of 0.25mm diameter
enamelled copper wire
1 56Ω 5W resistor
1 3.9Ω 5W resistor
Miscellaneous
Automotive connectors, automotive
cable, neutral cure Silicone sealant,
heatshrink tubing, cable ties, etc.
rocket-scientist to use it, as there are
no controls to operate. It’s turned on
and off with the ignition and you just
read the displays. Simple!
Circuit details
As already indicated, the circuit is
based on a PIC microcontroller which
minimises both the cost and the parts
count. In fact, the circuit is similar to
our previous PIC-based automotive
projects. It’s the bits that hang off the
microcontroller and the embedded
software that make it perform its intended role.
Refer now to Fig.1 for the circuit
details. IC1 – a PIC16F84 microcontroller – forms the basis of the circuit.
It accepts input signals from the sensor
(Sensor 1) via comparator IC2a and
drives the 7-segment LED displays and
the LED bargraph.
Most of the circuit complexity is
hidden inside the PIC microcontroller
and its internal program. That’s the
beauty of using a microcontroller –
we can easily do complicated (and
not so complicated) things with very
few parts.
A-D converter
Among other things, IC1 operates as
an A/D (analog-to-digital) converter. In
simple terms, this converts the analog
voltage produced by the sensor to a
digital value which is then used to
drive the LED displays. Let’s see how
this works.
First of all, the DC signal output
from the Hall sensor (pin 3) is fed to
pin 2 of comparator stage IC2a via
a filter consisting of a 47kΩ resistor
and 10µF capacitor. This filter circuit
removes any ripple voltage from the
Hall sensor output.
The output from the Hall sensor is
nominally at 2.5V when there is no
magnetic field applied to it. At the
same time, pin 3 of IC2a is biased to
2.5V using two series 100kΩ resistors
across the 5V supply.
The associated 100kΩ resistor to
RA3 of IC1 (pin 2) pulls IC2a’s pin 3
input to 1.67V when RA3 is at ground
or to 3.33V when RA3 is at 5V. However, if RA3 is repeatedly switched
between +5V and ground at a fast rate,
it follows that pin 3 of IC2a can be
set to any voltage between 1.67V and
3.33V, depending on the duty cycle of
the switching waveform.
In operation, the A/D converter uses
IC1 to ensure that the voltage applied
to pin 3 of IC2a matches the sensor
output vol
tage applied to pin 2. It
does this by producing a 1953Hz pulse
width modulated (PWM) signal at its
RA3 output, the duty cycle of which
is continually adjusted to produce the
required voltage on pin 3 of IC2a.
For example, if the duty cycle at
RA3 is 50%, the average voltage output will be 2.5V. This is filtered by a
0.1µF capacitor and applied to pin 3.
Other voltages are obtained by using
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different duty cycles, as indicated
above.
IC2a simply acts as a comparator.
Its pin 1 output switches low or high,
depending on whether the voltage on
pin 2 is higher or lower than the voltage on pin 3. The output from IC2a is
then fed to RB0 via a 3.3kΩ limiting
resistor. This is included to limit the
current flow from IC2a when its output
goes high; ie to +12V. The internal
clamp diodes at RB0 then limit this
voltage to 0.6V above IC1’s 5V supply
(ie, to +5.6V).
Note the 10kΩ pulldown resistor on
RB0. This ensures that the signal on
RB0 is detected as a low when pin 1
of IC2a goes low.
The A-D conversion process uses
a “successive approxima
tion” technique to zero in on the correct value.
This all takes place inside the microcontroller, with the duty cycle for each
successive approximation (and thus
the valued stored in an internal 8-bit
register) controlled by the software.
Initially, RA3 operates with a 50%
duty cycle and the internal register in
IC1 is set to 10000000. IC1 then checks
the output of comparator IC2a to see
whether it is high or low. It then adjusts
the duty cycle at RA3 by a set amount,
updates the register and checks the
output of IC2a again.
This process continues for eight cycles, each step successively adding or
subtracting smaller amounts of voltage
at pin 3 of IC2a. During this process,
the lower bits in the 8-bit register are
successively set to either a 1 or a 0 to
obtain an 8-bit A-D conversion.
Following the conversion, the binary number stored in the 8-bit register
is processed (we’ll look at this in more
detail shortly) and converted to a decimal value so that it can be shown on
the 3-digit LED display. Once again,
this takes place inside the PIC microcontroller.
Note that the possible range of
values for the 8-bit register is from
00000000 (0) to 11111111 (255) – ie,
256 possible values. However, in practice we are limited to a range of about
19-231. That’s because the software
must have time for internal processing to produce the waveform at the
RA3 output and to monitor the RB0
input.
Processing the register data
OK, let’s now take a closer look at
how the PIC microcontroller processes
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Fig.2: the current sensor consists of a ferrite core placed around the
battery leads, with a Hall effect device positioned in the air-gap. A magnetic flux is induced in the ferrite when ever current flows through the
leads and this flux passes through the Hall effect device which generates
a proportional output voltage.
the data in the 8-bit register following
con
version. To do this, it requires
several items of information.
First, it needs to know the voltage
produced by the Hall effect sensor
when there is no current flow. This is
nominally half the supply voltage (ie,
2.5V) but could be anywhere between
2.25V and 2.75V. This value is determined during the setting up procedure
by installing Link 1 which pulls the
RB1 line low via a 1.8kΩ resistor.
Second, the processor needs to
know what the output voltage from
the Hall effect sensor is for a known
current. This is measured at either
17A, 25A or 30A by installing either
Link 2, Link 3 or Link 4 on the RB2,
RB3 and RB7 outputs.
The Hall effect device’s quiescent
output voltage is then subtracted
from this measured value to derive a
calibration number.
For example, let’s say that the Hall
effect sensor’s output is 2.5V at 0A
and 3.0V at 17A (ie, we are calibrating
at 17A). In this case, the calibration
factor would be 3 - 2.5 = 0.5 and this
is stored by the processor along with
the calibration amperage (17A in this
case).
Once the processor knows this information it can calculate other currents,
depending on the output from the Hall
sensor. First, it subtracts the sensor’s
quiescent voltage from its new output
voltage (note: this provides values
that can be either positive or negative,
depending on the current direction).
The result is then multiplied by the
calibration amperage and divided by
the calibration factor to get the final
result.
This is best illustrated by another example. Let’s assume that the
calibration factor is 0.5 and that the
calibration amperage is 17A. Further,
let’s assume that the sensor output is
at 3.4V. In this case, the current would
be (3.4 - 2.5) x 17/0.5 or 30.6A.
This result (to the nearest amp) is
shown on the LED displays and on
the bargraph.
Driving the displays
The 7-segment display data from IC1
appears at outputs RB1-RB7. These
directly drive the display segments
via 150Ω current-limiting resistors,
while the RA0, RA1, RA2 & RA4 outputs drive the individual displays in
multiplex fashion via switching tran
sistors Q1-Q4 (more on this shortly).
As shown, the corresponding display segments are all tied together,
while the common anode terminals
are driven by the switching transistors.
Similarly, the cathodes of the LEDs
in the bargraph display (LEDBAR1)
are also connected to the display
segments.
What happens is that IC1 switches
its RA0, RA1, RA2 & RA4 lines low
in sequence to control the switching
transistors. For example, when RA0
goes low, transistor Q4 turns on and
applies power to the common anode
connection of DISP3. Any low outputs
on RB1-RB7 will thus light the corresponding segments of that display.
After this display has been lit for a
short time, RA0 is switched high and
June 2002 65
DISP3 turns off. The 7-segment display
data on RB1-RB7 is then updated,
after which RA1 is switched low to
drive Q3 and display DISP2. RA2 is
then switched low to drive DISP1 and
finally, RA4 is switched low to give the
LED bargraph its turn.
Note that IC1’s RA4 output has a
1kΩ pullup resistor connected to the
emitter supply rail for transistors Q1Q4. This is necessary to ensure that
Q1 switches off fully, since RA4 has
an open-drain output.
Between driving DISP1 and the LED
bargraph, the RB1-RB7 outputs are set
as inputs. These have internal pullup
resistors that hold them high unless
pulled low via one of the links (ie,
Links 1-4) and the associated 1.8kΩ
resistor. By monitoring the state of
these RB inputs, we can determine
whether one of the links has been
installed for calibration.
Link 1 tells the processor that the
voltage from the Hall effect sensor is
at the quiescent level (ie, when there
is no current flow through the battery
lead). The other three links set the
current level used for calibration (you
only have to choose one).
For example, if Link 2 is installed,
the processor knows that the voltage
output from the Hall sensor corresponds to a 17A current flow. Links
3 and 4 are respectively used for the
alternative 25A and 30A current calibration levels.
This view shows the fully assembled display board. Note that the three 7-way
pin headers are all mounted on the copper side of the board, with their leads
just protruding through from the top.
Display dimming
Trimpot VR1, light dependent resistor LDR1 and op amp IC2b are used
to control the display brightness. As
shown, IC2b is wired as a voltage follower and drives buffer transistor Q5
to control the voltage applied to the
The pin headers on the display board plug into matching in-line sockets on the
microcontroller board. Note that the three electrolytic capacitors are mounted
so that they lie horizontally across other components.
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
No.
3
1
1
1
1
1
4
7
1
66 Silicon Chip
Value
100kΩ
47kΩ
10kΩ
3.3kΩ
1.8kΩ
1kΩ
680Ω
150Ω
10Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black yellow brown
yellow violet orange brown
brown black orange brown
orange orange red brown
brown grey red brown
brown black red brown
blue grey brown brown
brown green brown brown
brown black black gold (5%)
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black orange brown
yellow violet black red brown
brown black black red brown
orange orange black brown brown
brown grey black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
blue grey black black brown
brown green black black brown
not applicable
www.siliconchip.com.au
Fig.3 (left): install the
parts on the micro
controller PC board as
shown here.
Table 2: Capacitor Codes
Value
IEC Code EIA Code
0.1µF 100n 104
15pF 15p 15
emitters if the display driver transistors (Q1-Q4).
When the ambient light is high,
LDR1 has low resistance and so the
voltage on pin 5 of IC2b is close to the
+5V supply rail delivered by REG1.
This means that the voltage on Q5’s
emitter will also be close to +5V and
so the displays operate at full brightness.
As the ambient light falls, the LDR’s
resistance increases and so the voltage at pin 5 of IC2b falls. As a result,
Q5’s emitter voltage also falls and so
the displays operate with reduced
brightness.
At low light levels, the LDR’s resistance is very high and the voltage
on pin 5 of IC2b is set by VR1. This
trimpot sets the minimum brightness
level and is simply adjusted to give
a com
fortable display brightness at
night.
Fig.4: the parts layout
on the sensor board is
shown above, while
at left is the display
board.
Clock signals
Clock signals for IC1 are provided by
an internal oscillator which operates
in conjunction with 4MHz crystal
X1 and two 15pF capacitors. The
two capacitors are there to provide
the correct loading for the crystal, to
ensure that the oscillator starts reliably.
The crystal frequency is divided
down internally to produce separate
clock signals for the microcontroller
and for display multiplexing.
Power supply
Power for the circuit is derived from
the vehicle’s battery via a fuse and
the ignition switch. This is fed in via
a 10Ω resistor and decoupled using
0.1µF and 100µF capacitors. Zener
diode ZD1 provides transient protection by limiting any spike voltages to
16V. It also provides reverse polarity
protection – if the leads are reversed,
ZD1 conducts heavily and blows the
10Ω resistor.
The decoupled supply is fed to
3-terminal regulator REG1 to derive a
+5V rail. This rail is then further filtered using 0.1µF and 10µF capacitors
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and applied to IC1, Sensor 1 and the
collector of Q5. Op amp IC2 derives its
power from the decoupled +12V rail.
Software
We don’t have space to describe
how the software works here but if
you really must know, you’ll find the
source code posted on our website.
Of course, you really don’t have to
know how the software works to build
this project. Instead, you just buy the
preprogrammed PIC chip and plug it
in, just like any other IC. So let’s see
how to put it all together.
Construction
Fig.3 shows the assembly details.
Most of the work involves assembling
three PC boards: a microcontroller
board coded 05106021, a display board
coded 05106022 and a sensor board
coded 05106023. The latter carries
just three parts: the Hall effect sensor
(Sensor 1), a 0.1µF capacitor and three
PC stakes and can be built in next to
no time at all.
The assembled display and microcontroller boards are stacked together
piggyback fashion using pin headers
and cut down IC sockets to make all
the interconnections. This completely eliminates the need to run wiring
between the two boards.
Begin by inspecting the PC boards
for shorts between tracks and for
possible breaks and undrilled holes.
Note that a “through-hole” is required
on the display board to accommodate
a screwdriver to adjust VR1 which
mounts on the microcontroller board.
This hole is just below the decimal
point for DISP3 (see photo).
Note also that the two main boards
need to have their corners removed,
so that they clear the mounting pillars
inside the case.
The sensor board can be assembled
first. Install the capacitor and the three
PC stakes first, then complete the
assembly by mounting the Hall effect
sensor. Mount the sensor with its leads
at full length and be sure to mount it
with the correct orientation.
June 2002 67
microcontroller board to do this – just
connect a 12V supply to the board and
check that there is +5V on pins 4 & 14
of the socket.
If this is correct, disconnect power
and install IC1 in its socket, making
sure that it is oriented correctly.
Display board assembly
Fig.5: this diagram shows how the two PC boards are stacked together
and secured to the bottom of the case using screws, nuts and spacers. Be
sure to use nylon spacers and washers where specified.
This is the completed board assembly, ready for mounting in the case. The top
of the LDR should be about 3mm above the displays.
The microcontroller board is next.
Being by installing the nine wire links,
then install the resistors. Table 1 lists
the resistor colour codes but we recommend that you check each value
using a digital multimeter, just to be
sure.
Note that the seven 150Ω resistors at
top right are mounted end-on.
Trimpot VR1 can go in next, followed by a socket to accept IC1 – make
sure this is installed the right way
around but don’t install IC1 just yet.
IC2 is soldered directly to the board
– install this now, followed by zener
diode ZD1 and transistors Q2-Q5.
Watch out here – Q5 is an NPN
BC337 type, while Q2-Q4 are all PNP
BC327s. Don’t mix then up.
REG1 is mounted with its metal tab
flat against the PC board and its leads
bent at right angles to pass through
their respective holes. Make sure that
its tab lines up with the mounting hole
in the PC board.
The capacitors can go in next but
make sure that the electrolytics are
mounted with the correct polarity.
Note that the 10µF capacitor below
VR1 must be a low-leakage (LL)
68 Silicon Chip
type. It is installed so that its body
lies horizontally across the adjacent
680Ω resistors. It’s a good idea to
bend its leads at rightangles using
needle-nosed pliers before mounting
the capacitor on the board.
Similarly, the two electrolytic capacitors below REG1 must be installed
so that their bodies lie over the regulator’s leads (see photo).
Crystal X1 mounts horizontally on
the PC board and can go in either way
around. It is secured by soldering a
short length of tinned copper wire to
one end of its case and to a PC pad
immediately to the right of Q3.
Finally, you can complete the
assembly of this board by fitting PC
stakes to the external wiring points
and installing the three 7-way in-line
sockets. The latter are made by cutting down two 14-pin IC sockets into
in-line strips. Use a sharp knife or a
fine-toothed hacksaw for this job and
clean up any rough edges with a file
before installing them.
Before plugging in IC1, it’s a good
idea to check the supply rails on
its socket. You don’t need to have
any other circuitry connected to the
Now for the display board. Install
the eight wire links first (note: six
of these mount under the displays),
then install the three 7-segment LED
displays. Make sure that these are
properly seated and that their decimal points are at bottom right before
soldering them
The LED bargraph can go in next –
this mounts with the corner chamfer at
bottom right (ie, labelled side towards
the edge of the PC board). This done,
install LDR1 so that its top face is about
3mm above the displays.
The remaining parts, including the
5-way DIL pin header, can now be
installed. The shorting jumper can
be installed in the “OFF” position (at
right) for safe keeping, at this stage.
The three 7-way pin headers are
installed on the copper side of the
PC board, with their leads just protruding above the top surface. You
will need a fine-tipped soldering iron
to solder them in. Note that you will
have to slide the plastic spacer along
the pins to allow room for soldering,
after which the spacer is pushed back
down again.
Final assembly
Work can now begin on the plastic
case. First, remove the integral side
pillars with a sharp chisel, then slide
the micro
controller board in place.
That done, mark out two mounting
holes – one aligned with REG1’s metal
tab and the other diagonally opposite
(to the bottom left of IC2).
Now remove the board and drill the
two holes to 3mm. They should be
slightly countersunk on the outside of
the case to suit the mounting screws.
In addition, you will have to drill
two holes in the bottom of the case
to accept the power leads and the
shielded cable for the Hall effect sensor. These two holes should be located
so that they line up with the relevant
PC stakes.
The display board can now be
plugged into the microcontroller board
and the assembly fastened together
and installed in the case as shown
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Another view of the completed PC board assembly, prior
to mounting in the case. Make sure that the displays are
oriented correctly (decimal point to bottom right).
in Fig.4. Be sure to use a 2mm nylon
washer (or spacer) in the location
shown.
Once it’s all together, check that
none of the leads on the display board
short against any of the parts on the
microcon
troller board. Some of the
pigtails on the display board may have
to be trimmed to avoid this.
The front panel artwork can now
be used as a template for marking out
and drilling the front panel. You will
need to drill a hole for the LDR plus a
series of small holes around the inside
perimeter of the display cutout.
Once the holes have been drilled,
knock out the centre piece and clean
up the rough edges using a small file.
Make the cutout so that the red Perspex
window is a tight fit. A few spots of
superglue along the inside edges can
be used to ensure that the window
stays put.
That done, you can affix the front
panel label and cut out the holes with
a utility knife.
The power supply and sensor leads are soldered directly
to their respective terminals on the back of the micro
controller board.
be +5V on pin 1, 0V on pin 2 and
nominally 2.5V on pin 3 (this could be
between 2.25V and 2.75V, depending
on the particular sensor).
You can test the dimming feature
by holding your finger over the LDR.
Adjust VR1 until the display dims to
the correct level. This trimpot is best
adjusted when it’s dark, to obtain the
correct display brightness.
Calibration
The first calibration setting to be
made is for the quiescent Hall effect
output level. This is done by placing
the jumper shorting plug across the “0”
DIL launcher located on the display
PC board. Just make sure the sensor
is not located near any magnets when
this is done.
The display should indicate “CAL”
and the 0A LED should be lit on the
bargraph display. Now remove the
shorting plug after about one second
and place it in the off position. The
display will now return to normal operation and show a “0”. Note that the
off position is just a position to store
the shorting plug and it does not form
any connection to the circuit.
The unit must now be calibrated
using a known current flow. The first
step is to position the Hall effect sensor in the air gap of the ferrite core as
shown in Fig.7.
In this case, the ferrite core is sim-
Testing
Before testing the unit, you have to
connect the Hall sensor leads to the
microcontroller board. These connections, along with the power supply
connections are made on the copper
sides (see photo).
Now apply power – the display
should show two dashes (- -). After
about 5 seconds, the display should
then show a value on the 7-segment
LED displays and one or more LEDs
should light in the bargraph. If this
doesn’t happen, check the voltages on
the Hall effect sensor. There should
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The PC board assembly fits neatly into a small plastic utility case and matches
the style of our previous PIC-based automotive projects.
June 2002 69
Table 4: Total Load With Lights On (Typical)
Parking Lights + licence plate....................................................25W (2.1A)
Reversing Lights.........................................................................42W (3.5A)
Main brake Lights.......................................................................42W (3.5A)
Main brake light + high level brake light.....................................60.4W (5A)
Headlights (high beam, no low beam) + all brake lights +
parking + licence plate...........................................................205.4W (17A)
Headlights (high beam with low beam) + all brake lights +
parking + licence plate...........................................................315.4W (26A)
ply a voltage spike protector which
is designed to clip over power leads
to limit noise spikes. This unit uses a
split core encased in a plastic housing
that can be opened to accept the lead
and then clamped shut again.
Fig.7 and the accompanying photos
show how the Hall effect sensor is installed sandwich fashion between the
two ferrite cores. The sensor board can
be encapsulated in heatshrink tubing
and attached to the side of the plastic
case using a cable tie.
By the way, it’s good idea to glue a
couple of 1.5mm-thick plastic spacers
either side of the Hall effect sensor, to
prevent stressing the ferrite core when
the case is closed.
Once the current sensor has been
made up, clamp it to the battery
lead(s). You can now calibrate the
ammeter using either of two methods:
(1) the “rough ‘n ready” way using the
current drawn by the car’s headlights;
or (2) the precise way by winding turns
through the core to simulate a higher
current.
We’ll look at the rough ‘n ready
way first. Tables 3 & 4 show typical
lamp ratings in cars and the currents
drawn with various combinations of
lights switched on. If you want better
accuracy, check the ratings for the
various lights in your vehi
cle, You
should be able to get this information
from the owner’s handbook or from a
service manual.
As stated previously, you need to
Fig.6: this is the full-size artwork for the front panel.
Discharge
Current (A)
(cutout for LED displays)
Charge
Parking lights (front)............................................................................... 5W
Tail lights................................................................................................ 5W
Licence plate.......................................................................................... 5W
Dashboard parking indicator............................................................... 1.4W
Reversing lights.................................................................................... 21W
Main brake lights.................................................................................. 21W
High level brake light......................................................................... 18.4W
Dashboard brake indicator.................................................................. 1.4W
Headlights (high beam/low beam)................................................ 60W/55W
Dashboard high beam indicator.......................................................... 1.4W
30
20
10
0
10
20
30
Table 3: Typical Lamp Ratings In Cars
calibrate at either 17A, 25A or 30A.
From Table 3, you can see that if
you switch on the headlights at high
beam along with the brake lights and
the parking lights, you will get a total
current drain of about 26A (assuming
a 12V battery).
This value should be satisfactory
for calibrating the unit at 25A – just
place the shorting jumper into the 25A
position. The display will show “CAL”
and the 25A discharge LEDs will light
on the bargraph. That done, remove
the jumper plug and replace it in the
OFF position.
And that’s it – the calibration is
completed!
Note: some cars switch the lowbeam lights off when the headlights are
at high-beam and so the total current
will only be around 17A. In this case,
you calibrate the unit by placing the
shorting plug in the 17A position.
Precise calibration
A more accurate calibration can be
Fig.5: here
are the fullsize etching
patterns
for the PC
boards.
70 Silicon Chip
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This view shows how the Hall effect
sensor and the adjacent plastic spacer
(or washers) are attached to the ferrite
core.
at 214mA and the 80 turns simulates
17A through the core.
In this case, calibrate the unit using
the 17A shorting position, then remove
the jumper shorting plug after about
one second.
Fig.7: you can accurately calibrate the unit at low current using the
set-up shown here (see text). Use silicone sealant to seal the assembly
after clamping it to the battery leads and to protect the sensor board.
made at much lower cur
rent using
either the car’s battery or an adjustable or fixed 12V power supply. In this
case, we simulate a higher current
flow by winding many turns of wire
through the ferrite core (see Fig.7). For
example, if you want to simulate 30A,
wind 30 turns on the ferrite core and
set the current through these turns
to 1A.
If you have an adjustable power
supply, install a 3.9Ω 5W resistor in
series with the power supply and the
winding and set the output voltage
to 3.9V. If you’re really fussy, add a
multimeter in series with the wiring
and set the current to exactly 1A by
adjusting the supply voltage.
When the current is at 1A, install
the jumper in the 30A position. The
display will show “CAL” and the 30A
discharge LED will light. Remove the
jumper short after about one second
and the unit is accurately calibrated.
If you are using a fixed 12V supply,
you can connect a 56Ω 5W resistor in
series with 80 turns around the ferrite
core. The 56Ω resistor sets the current
The current sensor
clamps onto the battery
lead(s) as shown here.
Make sure that all the
leads to one battery
terminal are included.
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Installation
The Ammeter can be installed into
a vehicle using automotive style terminators to make the connections to
the ignition supply and ground. Note
that the ignition supply connection
must be made on the fused side. The
ground connection can be made to the
chassis with an eyelet and self tapping screw.
Use twin core shielded cable for the
3-wire connection to the Hall sensor.
The Hall effect sensor should be
attached to the ferrite core as shown
in Fig.7, with the spacers installed
and the assem
bly clipped together
place. You can attach the core to either the positive or negative battery
lead but all wires connecting to one
battery terminal must pass through
the core.
Check that the ammeter display
shows the “-” sign when the battery
is discharging. You can check this by
switching on the headlights when the
engine is off. If the minus sign is off,
simply open the ferrite core, flip the
assembly 180° and replace it over the
wire or wires.
Finally, the Hall effect sensor assembly should be tied together with
cable ties and covered with a layer
of silicone sealant to keep dirt and
moisture out. The PC board and wiring
should also be covered with the Silicone and the lead secured with cable
SC
ties.
June 2002 71
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