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Items relevant to "Automatic Single-Channel Light Dimmer; Pt.2":
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. . . dimming with the power of a PIC
Last month we covered the features and design details of this
completely new high power automatic dimmer. It is controlled
by a PIC16F84 microcontroller. This month, we conclude with the
construction and setting up details and the parts list.
Pt.2: By JOHN CLARKE
58 Silicon Chip
The Automatic Light Dimmer is constructed on three PC boards: a Display
board coded 10104021 and measuring
89 x 102mm; a Controller board coded
10104022 and measuring 84 x 96mm;
and a filter PC board coded 10104023
and measuring 52 x 59mm. These are
housed in a diecast box measuring 171
x 121 x 55mm.
You can begin by checking each PC
board for any possible problems before they are assembled. In particular,
check the pattern against the published
artwork for any shorts or breaks in
the tracks. Also check the hole sizes
drilled to ensure they are suitable for
each component. Note that switches
S2-S4 and S6-S8 need slotted holes to
suit their terminals. The component
overlays for all three boards are shown
in Fig.4.
Start assembly of the Display PC
board by installing the links and diodes. Place the four DIP20 IC sockets
in the LED1-40 positions on the PC
board. The 10-LED bargraphs need to
be inserted with the correct polarity.
One of the corners of the LED bargraph
package has a small chamfer down one
edge. This is the cathode (K) side of
bargraph and should be installed in
the sockets as indicated on the overlay
diagram in Fig.4.
Now install the 8-way right angle
pin headers for connectors CONA, B,
C and D. Switch S5 can be installed
with the “flat” side oriented as shown.
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Fig.4: install the parts on the three PC boards as shown here but don’t initially
mount any of the switches except for S5 (all the other switches are installed on
the case lid first – see photo). Note that the two LED bargraph displays on the
Display board mount in opposite directions.
Do not install the remaining switches.
LED41 is mounted so that the top of
its convex lens is 10mm above the top
of the LED bargraphs.
Work can now begin on the Controller PC board by installing the links and
IC2, IC3 and IC4. IC1 uses a socket.
Take care with orienting the ICs and
socket and note that IC3 is oriented
differently to IC2 and IC1.
When installing the resistors, use
the resistor code table as a check when
selecting each value. You can also use
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a multi
meter to check each value.
The eight 4.7kΩ resistors near IC3 are
mounted vertically, ie, end-on.
Diodes D13 and D14 can be installed
as well as Q1-Q5, taking care with
their orientation. Install the 20MHz
crystal and the capacitors, taking care
to orient the electrolytic capacitors
with the correct polarity, as shown.
Note that the 1µF bipolar electrolytic
can be installed either way.
Install the PC stakes near D13 and
D14. Triac1 and REG1 are mounted
WARNING!
Part of the circuitry used in this
Automatic Light Dimmer operates at
240VAC (see Figs.1 & 6) and is potentially lethal. Do not touch any part of
this circuit while the unit is plugged
into the mains and do not operate the
circuit outside its earthed metal case.
This project is for experienced constructors only. Do not build it unless
you are entirely familiar with mains
wiring practices and construction
techniques.
May 2002 59
Table 2: Capacitor Codes
Value
IEC Code EIA Code
0.1µF 100n 104
.047µF 47n 473
22pF 22p 22
the PC board, the inductor is secured
with two cable ties, each wrapping
around the toroid and through holes
in the PC board.
Install the four 8-way vertical pin
headers as shown.
Making the filter board
The filter PC board is assembled
with the 0.1µF 250VAC capacitor
soldered in place next to the 4.7MΩ
resistor as shown. Inductor L2 has
two windings on the one Philips 4330
0303 4220 toroid, using 1mm diameter
enamelled copper wire.
Wind on 11 turns evenly spaced
on one side of the toroid. The second winding needs to be wound as a
mirror image of the first, so be careful
with the winding direction. In other
words, if the turns on the first winding go clockwise around the core, the
turns on the second winding MUST
go anticlockwise. Make sure you get
this RIGHT!
Wind on 11 turns as before. Terminate the windings after scraping and
tinning the wire ends. We secured the
toroid using two 100mm long cable
ties around it and the bottom of the
PC board. This holds the toroid in
position but also allows some movement, preventing it from shattering if
the assembled Automatic Light Dimmer is dropped. Note that this ferrite
toroid is rather brittle compared to
This view shows the fully assembled Display board. It’s best to attach the four
8-way cables before soldering it to the matching switch hardware mounted on
the lid of the case.
under the PC board as shown in Fig.5.
The leads are bent at right angles
and soldered to the PC board so that
the device tabs are 6mm below the
bottom of the PC board. Bend the
leads over on the top of the PC board
to secure them in position before
soldering.
Inductor L1 is wound on a Neosid
17-730-22 or Jaycar LO-1244 powdered-iron core using 1mm enamelled
copper wire. Wind on 16 turns evenly
spaced around the toroid and terminate the leads in the PC boards holes.
You will need to scrape away the
enamel insulation at each end of the
wires and tin them with solder. After
soldering the leads to the underside of
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
No.
1
1
2
8
2
5
2
1
2
5
60 Silicon Chip
Value
4.7MΩ (VR37)
100kΩ
10kΩ
4.7kΩ
2.2kΩ
680Ω
470Ω
360Ω
220Ω
47Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
yellow violet green yellow
brown black yellow brown
brown black orange brown
yellow violet red brown
red red red brown
blue grey brown brown
yellow violet brown brown
orange blue brown brown
red red brown brown
yellow violet black brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black orange brown
brown black black red brown
yellow violet black brown brown
red red black brown brown
blue grey black black brown
yellow violet black black brown
orange blue black black brown
red red black black brown
yellow violet black gold brown
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Here’s how to wire the four cables:
on each of the “A” and “B” cables, connect pin 1 on one header plug to pin
8 on the header plug at the other end,
pin 2 to pin 7 and so on. Conversely,
for the “C” and “D” cables, connect
pin 1 of one header plug to pin 1 of
the header plug at the other end, pin
2 to pin 2 and so on.
Mark the ends of each cable with
a felt-tipped pen as it is completed,
so that you don’t get them mixed up
later on. That way, when the header
sockets are plugged into the pin headers on the Controller PC board, all the
connections will be correct, since the
headers will only fit one way.
Once the cables have been completed, plug them into the Display PC
board, so that it is ready for mounting
onto the lid of the case. Take care not
to transpose cables “B” and “D” – remember that Fig.4 shows the Display
board from the component side.
Drilling the case
Take care when installing the switches on the lid – they must all be oriented
correctly (see text) and some of the switch styles differ (see photo). The two red
Perspex windows should be a force fit and can be further secured using a few
drops of superglue.
the more robust powdered iron toroid
used for L1.
Making the header cables
There are four cables to be made
up using polarised 8-way pin header
plugs and 8-way rainbow cable. The
“A” and “B” cables are 90mm long,
the “C” cable is 180mm long and the
“D” cable is 135mm long.
The header cables are made up by
first crimping the stripped wire ends
into the pins. You may also wish to
apply a small amount of solder to each
crimp connection to ensure a good
contact. The pins then clip into the
header plug.
Note, however, that the wiring connections to the polarised header plugs
are quite critical. For this reason, be
sure to follow the wiring details set out
in the next paragraph exactly.
The lid of the case will require
drilling for the switches, LED bargraph
displays and the 10mm LED. Use the
front panel artwork as a guide to the
hole locations and use the display PC
board to measure the exact positions.
The rectangular holes for the switches
and LED bargraphs can be made by
drilling out a series of holes within the
cutout area and then filing to shape.
Of course, if you buy a kit, all the
drilling will have been done for you.
We fitted clear red Perspex windows
into the LED bargraph cutouts.
When the drilling and filing of the
lid is complete, attach the front panel
label and cut out the holes with a sharp
hobby knife. Insert the switches into
the holes allocated, making note of
these important points: (1) Switches
S1 and S4 need to be oriented so that
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SOUND GENERATOR.
THESE LOW COST IC’S
ARE USED IN MANY TOYS,
DOORBELLS AND NOVELTY
APPLICATIONS
1-9
$1.10
10-24 $0.99
25+
$0.88
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May 2002 61
Fig.5: both REG1 (7805) and the BTA41 insulated tab Triac are bolted
to the bottom of the case as shown here. Note that the device tabs must
be 6mm below the bottom of the PC board.
the switch contacts are closed when
set to the Flash and Rate B positions;
(2) Switch S2 is oriented so that its
contacts are closed when set to the
Manual dimming position; and (3)
Switch
es S3, S6, S7 & S8 can be
mounted either way but it is best to
orient them all with the same switch
legend positions. We elected to place
these four switches with the double
bar toward the top.
The display PC board is mounted by
soldering it directly onto the switch
terminals.
Now that the lid is finished, the
case itself requires a fair amount of
drilling. Mounting holes are required
for the controller and filter PC boards,
the regulator, Triac, earthing lug and
the transformer. As well, one end of
the case requires holes for the power
switch S9, fuse F1, cord-grip grommet
and the surface mount General Purpose Outlet (GPO) mains socket. Two
Fig.6: this diagram shows the
mounting details for the two
earth lugs. The second nut
locks the first nut, so that there
is no possibility of the earth lug
later working its way loose.
holes are required to mount the socket
and three holes are for the grommets
that allow the wires to pass through the
panel into the GPO terminals.
Transformer T1 is mounted on the
side of the case at an angle so that it
does not foul the display PC board
when the lid is placed on the box. One
of the mounting feet needs to be bent
up so that it fits against the integral
pillar in the case. Use countersunk
screws to mount the transformer so
This is the view inside the prototype with most of
the wiring completed. The headers from the
Display PC board plug into matching header pins
on the Controller PC board.
62 Silicon Chip
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Fig.7: the mains wiring details. Use cable ties to bind the leads and note that inductor L2 (top) is secured with two cable ties that loop
under the PC board (see photo). Be sure to use nylon screws, nuts and spacers where specified.
that they are flush with the outside
of the box.
Installing the hardware
We are now in the final assembly
stage where everything is wired together, as shown in Fig.7.
Install the mains cord first. Strip
back about 200mm of the outer
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sheath of the mains cord so that
there is sufficient lead length for all
the mains wiring. Cut off 50mm and
100mm lengths of the brown Active
wire from the mains cord and solder
the 50mm length to provide the connection between the filter board and
the controller PC board. The 100mm
length provides the connection from
the fuseholder to the controller board
(shown as “X” on Fig.7).
Apply a smear of heatsink compound to the underside of the Triac tab
and regulator tab before bolting them
down. Note that the specified Triac
has an isolated tab which means that
the metal flange on the device is not
connected to any of the pins. You can
May 2002 63
to the case with 8mm long screws and
nuts.
Fit the mains cord into the hole in
the case with a cordgrip grommet.
Make sure that this cord cannot be
pulled out from the case once secured
in place. The green-yellow earth wires
are attached to the case using crimp
eyelets and a screw, two star washers
and two nuts – see Fig.6.
Fit switch S9, fuseholder F1, the
GPO socket and its grommets and wire
switch S9 and fuseholder F1 as shown.
Be sure to sheath the fuseholder terminals, with 10mm diameter heatshrink
tubing and the switch terminals with
5mm heatshrink tubing.
Mount the transformer now. Note
that the switch terminals will need to
be bent over slightly to allow clearance
for the transformer.
Connect the wiring to the filter PC
board and to the GPO before mounting
the filter PC board on 25mm screws
and 15mm Nylon spacers. Note that
a Nylon screw and nut is used for
the corner mounting position on the
filter PC board. Do not use a metal
screw in this position otherwise there
is a risk of flashover. This applies to
any position where we have specified
Nylon screws – see Fig.7.
Connect the transformer secondaries to the Controller PC board as
shown. The mains wiring needs to be
tied so that if one wire should come
adrift it will still be secured in place
with another wire connection. Use
cable ties to strap the wires in place
on the switch, the back of fuseholder
F1 and the wires on the filter PC board.
Finally, attach four rubber feet to
the base of the case.
Here's how to fit the folded
Presspahn insulation into
the case. Note that many
of the parts underneath
the Presspahn insulation
operate at 240VAC.
Presspahn insulation
This view shows how the mains socket, on/off switch and safety fuseholder
are mounted on one end of the case. Make sure that the mains cord is properly
secured using a cordgrip grommet.
check this by measuring the resistance
between the tab and the pins with a
multimeter.
If the resistance shows a short circuit then the Triac is not an isolated
tab type and should not be used. An
open circuit measurement will show
64 Silicon Chip
if the Triac is the correct isolated tab
device.
Mount the controller PC board
on 6mm Nylon spacers using 15mm
long screws. Note that the screw near
Triac1 must be a Nylon screw (see
Fig.7). Secure the regulator and Triac
As shown in the accompanying
photo, a folded piece of Presspahn or
Elephantide insulation is used to cover
the high-voltage section of the circuitry (apart from the mains switch).
This serves to isolate the low-voltage
cable wiring from those components
operating at mains potential when
the lid is attached and is important
for long-term reliability. Fig.8 shows
the cutout and folding details for the
insulation material.
Testing
Check your wiring very carefully,
making sure all the wires are connected to the correct positions. Also check
that the mains Earth lead is connected
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Scope 4: this shows the lamp voltage when the Triac is
fired at the peak of the mains waveform. The resulting
RMS voltage is about half the 250V or 126V as
measured by the oscilloscope.
Scope 5: this is the gate drive pulse as seen at pins 2
and 3 of IC1. This pulse drives the optocoupled Triac
driver IC4 via a 220Ω resistor. The gate pulse width is
82µs.
Fig.8: you can use this diagram as a template for marking
out and cutting the Presspahn insulation material. Fold the
cutout along the dotted lines in the direction indicated.
to chassis and that the Earth terminal on the GPO is also
connected to chassis. You can check that there is continuity
from the Earth pin on the mains plug to chassis and to the
Earth connection on the GPO using a multimeter.
The Automatic Dimmer is best initially tested with the lid
secured in place with its mounting screws. Apply power and
check that the display LEDs light. If the LEDs do not light,
switch off power immediately and disconnect the power
plug. Check that the fuse is intact and that the switch was
turned on.
PLEASE NOTE!
The scope waveforms in this article are shown to explain
the operation of the circuit. DO NOT try to reproduce these
waveforms yourself – it is much too dangerous.
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Scope 6: the yellow trace is the mains waveform at
50Hz and 250VAC. The blue trace is the signal applied
to pin 6 of IC1 to detect the zero voltage crossing point
of the mains waveform. This voltage is clipped at
+5.6V and 0.6V below ground via the internal
clamping diodes of IC1.
May 2002 65
Parts List
1 display PC board, code
10104021, 89 x 102mm
1 controller PC board, code
10104022, 84 x 96mm
1 filter PC board, code 10104023,
52 x 59mm
1 front panel label, 116 x 168mm
1 diecast aluminium box, 171 x
121 x 55mm
2 10mm x 51.5 x 2mm clear red
Perspex or Acrylic
1 sheet of Elephantide or Press
pahn insulation, 100 x 160mm
1 30V centre-tapped 5VA mains
transformer with internal
thermal fuse (T1) (Jaycar MM2007 or equivalent)
1 iron powdered toroid, 25 x 13
x 10mm approx, AL 77 (L1)
(Neosid 17-730-22 or Jaycar
LO-1244)
1 Ferrite toroid, 37 x 22 x 16mm
approx, AL 7390 (L2) (Philips
4330 0303 4220 or Jaycar LO1238)
2 SPST ultra-mini rocker switch
(S1,S4) (Jaycar SK-0975,
Altronics S-3202 or equiv.)
4 SPDT centre off spring return
rocker switch (S3,S6,S7,S8)
(Jaycar SK-0987 or equiv.)
2 SPST mini rocker switch (S2,
S9) (Jaycar SK-0984 or equiv.)
1 snap action keyboard switch
(S5) (Jaycar SP-0721, Altronics
S-1096 or equiv.)
1 20MHz parallel resonant crystal
(X1)
1 10A surface mount mains outlet
(HPM Cat. NO.35)
1 2AG panel-mount safety fuse
holder
1 10A 2AG fuse
1 10A mains plug and lead
1 cord grip grommet to suit mains
lead
4 DIP20 IC sockets (for LEDs1-40)
1 DIP18 IC socket (for IC1)
3 9mm rubber grommets
8 8-way 0.1-inch polarised header
plugs (Jaycar Cat. HM-3408 or
equivalent)
4 8-way 0.1-inch polarised pin
headers (Jaycar Cat. HM-3418
or equivalent)
4 8-way 0.1-inch polarised
right-angle pin headers (Jaycar
Cat. HM-3428 or equivalent)
1 550mm length of 8-way rainbow
cable
2 M3 x 10mm countersunk
screws
2 M3 x 8mm pan head screws
1 M3 x 12mm pan head screw
2 M3 x 20mm pan head screws
1 M3 x 15mm Nylon screw
3 M3 x 15mm metal screws
1 M3 x 25mm Nylon screw
1 M3 x 25mm metal screw
2 15mm M3 tapped plastic
standoffs
4 6mm M3 tapped plastic standoffs
12 M3 nuts
2 M3 Nylon nuts
2 M3 star washers
2 crimp eyelets
4 rubber feet
1 45mm length of 10mm diameter
heatshrink tubing
1 20mm length of 4mm diameter
heatshrink tubing
10 100mm long cable ties
1 2.3m length of 1mm diameter
enamelled copper wire
Check that the LED bargraphs have
been installed correctly. Also you may
need to check the supply voltages
on IC1 and IC2 for 5V. There should
be 5V between pins 5 and 14 on IC1
and between pins 8 and 16 on IC2.
Be careful when checking voltages
since the righthand side of the PC
board has mains voltages on it. This
includes the MOC3021 (IC4), L1 and
the adjacent 360Ω and 470Ω resistors
and the Triac leads.
If the displays are operating, you
should be able to set the dim and flash
levels and the rates using the up and
down set level switches. Also the LED
lamp indicator should light accord
ing to the dimming level. Check
operation of the autodim function
and the flash.
You can set the filament preheat by
connecting up an incandescent lamp
via the GPO socket. Note that you
must use a lamp that is at least 60W.
A smaller bulb rating may flicker since
the Triac holding current is too high
for these.
Press all three lefthand switches
(Store Settings, Set UP and Dim Up
switches) and wait as the slow in-
66 Silicon Chip
1 150mm length of 0.8mm tinned
copper wire
3 PC stakes
Semiconductors
1 PIC16F84A-20P microcontroller
programmed with autodim.hex
(IC1)
1 4017 decade counter (IC2)
1 ULN2803 8-way Darlington driver
(IC3)
1 MOC3021 Triac driver (IC4)
1 7805 3-terminal regulator
(REG1)
1 BTA41.600B 40A 600V insulated
tab Triac (TRIAC1)
5 BC328 PNP transistors
(Q1-Q5)
12 1N914, 1N4148 diodes (D1D12)
2 1N4004 diodes (D13,D14)
4 10-red LED bargraph displays
(LED1-LED40)
1 10mm red LED (LED41)
Capacitors
1 470µF 25VW PC electrolytic
2 10µF 25VW PC electrolytic
1 1µF bipolar electrolytic
2 0.1µF 250VAC X2 class
2 0.1µF MKT polyester
1 .047µF 250VAC X2 class
2 22pF NP0 ceramic
Resistors (0.25W 1%)
1 4.7MΩ Philips VR37 high-voltage
type (DO NOT substitute)
1 100kΩ
2 470Ω
2 10kΩ
1 360Ω
8 4.7kΩ
2 220Ω
2 2.2kΩ
5 47Ω
5 680Ω
Fig.9: the is the full-size etching pattern for the filter PC board.
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Fig.10: this is the full-size front panel artwork.
Fig.11: the full-size etching patterns for the Display PC
board (left) and Controller PC board.
crease in voltage applied to the lamp
is sufficient to provide a soft glow in
the filament. Release the switches
and press the Store Settings switch to
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retain this value of preheat.
Note that the dim up and set up
switches may have altered settings at
the time the filament preheat adjust-
ment was made. You can store the dim
and flash levels and A and B rates that
you set on the display at any time using
the store settings switch.
SC
May 2002 67
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