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Clean up your video signals with this:
Video-audio booster
for home theatre
If your home theatre setup involves sending
video signals over fairly long cables, you’ll
really appreciate this project. It’s a wideband
amplifier that can boost both composite and
S-video signals, or even component video
signals with the right cables. And it handles
stereo audio signals as well.
By JIM ROWE
W
HEN SETTING UP a home theatre, there’s often a need to run
fairly long video cables between your
signal sources (DVD player, VCR and/
or laserdisc player) and your big screen
display. The reason for this is simple it isn’t always convenient to have the
signal sources and the display at the
18 Silicon Chip
same end of the room.
Of course, there’s no great problem
feeding audio signals over long cables,
provided that the cables are of reasonable quality. However, that’s not the
case with video signals due to their
much greater bandwidth. Video signal
frequencies can range up to 5MHz or
more (as against just 20kHz for audio)
and can suffer quite noticeable degradation when fed through cables longer
than about five metres.
This signal degradation is due mainly to cable capacitance. This causes
high-frequency losses and occurs even
when you use high-quality coaxial cable that has been correctly terminated
at each end. The resulting pictures
lack contrast and colour saturation,
and also become noticeably “softer”
(ie, lacking in fine detail) due to the
lower bandwidth.
Video booster
The best way to tackle this kind of
problem is to use a video “booster”
every five metres or so. Basically, you
take a 5-metre cable run and plug it
into the booster – essentially a wideband video amplifier. The booster
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Fig.1: this diagram shows how the video booster is connected for composite video signals (top), S-video signals centre
and component video signals (bottom). It’s basically a matter of buying (or making up) the necessary cables.
restores the incoming signal so that it
is close to original before feeding it to
the next 5-metre cable run and so on.
A booster for conventional “composite” video signals needs just a single wideband video amplifier channel.
However, if you want to take advantage
of the higher quality available from
the “S-video” output of your DVD
player, the booster needs two chan
nels. That’s because, in S-video, the
luminance (“Y”) or black-and-white
picture information is not combined
with the chrominance (“C”) or colour
information. Instead, the two signals
are fed along separate cables to prevent
them interacting – see Fig.1(b).
The video booster described here
can handle either composite or S-video
signals as required, because it uses
an IC which actually contains four
wideband amplifier channels. This
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allows us to devote one channel to
the composite video input and output,
while two more are dedicated to the
S-video input and output sockets.
This means that there’s no switching
and the composite video and S-video
channels can even be used at the same
time; eg, to pipe composite signals to
another room while you’re watching
S-video signals to your home theatre
display.
The fourth channel is spare and can
only be accessed internally.
What about handling the even higher quality “component video” signal
outputs? With this type of signal, as
well as the luminance (Y) being kept
separate, the two “colour difference”
signals (R-Y or “Cr” and B-Y or “Cb”)
are also kept separate – ie, instead of
being combined as the chrominance
(C) signal.
If your DVD player provides these
outputs and your display can also handle them, the video booster can help
here too. All you need to do is buy or
make up some adaptor cables, so that
the three component video signals can
be fed through the three main booster
channels – see Fig.1(c).
Audio amplifier
As well as the video amplifier channels, the booster also includes a pair
of low-noise audio line amplifiers.
This means that it can also be used to
handle any stereo audio signals which
accompany the video, so these too will
reach the far end of the cables in good
condition.
Probably the main use for the audio
channels will be where you’re feeding
the video and audio to a different
room. They’ll also come in handy if
December 2005 19
Parts List
1 PC board, code 02104031,
117 x 102mm
1 plastic instrument case, 140 x
110 x 35mm
2 PC-mount 4-pin mini-DIN
sockets
6 PC-mount RCA sockets
1 PC-mount 2.5mm concentric
male “DC” connector
1 9V AC plugpack (500mA) with
2.5mm female connector
Semiconductors
1 MAX497 quad video amplifier
(IC1)
1 LM833 dual op amp (IC2)
1 LM7809 +9V regulator (REG1)
1 LM7909 -9V regulator (REG2)
1 LM7805 +5V regulator (REG3)
1 LM7905 -5V regulator (REG4)
1 3mm green or red LED (LED1)
2 1N4004 1A diodes (D1,D2)
Capacitors
2 2200µF 16V RB electrolytic
2 100µF 16V RB electrolytic
2 10µF 10V RB electrolytic or
tantalum
2 2.2µF 35V TAG tantalum
2 1.0µF MKT
2 220nF MKT
4 100nF monolithic ceramic
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
4 100kΩ
8 75Ω
2 47kΩ
2 10Ω
3 1kΩ
Where to buy a kit
The design copyright for this project is owned by Jaycar Electronics.
Complete kits will be available from
Jaycar Electronics by the time this
article appears in print.
you need to send one or more of the
signals in a 5.1, 6.1 or 7.1-channel
surround sound system to remote
power amplifiers; eg, you might want
to send the SB (surround back) signals
from your 6.1/7.1-channel decoder to
the rear of your home theatre room,
to drive a power amplifier for the rear
centre speaker.
Alternatively, you might want to
drive an active subwoofer with the
LFE (low frequency effects) channel
signals.
Presentation
As you can see from the photos, the
20 Silicon Chip
The A/V output sockets are all accessible from the rear of the unit. They include
a 4-pin mini-DIN socket for the S-video signals, plus three RCA sockets for the
composite video and left & right channel audio output sockets. The socket at far
right is the DC power connector.
booster is very compact. Everything
fits in a small ABS instrument case
measuring just 140 x 110 x 35mm.
Power comes from a 9V AC plugpack.
Incidentally, Jaycar Electronics
will be making a complete kit for the
booster available, so you should be
able to build it up very easily and at
an attractive price.
How it works
The booster’s video amplifier channels are all provided by IC1, a Maxim
MAX497. This high-performance device is designed expressly for handling
video signals. It includes four closedloop buffer amplifiers, each operating
with a fixed voltage gain of 2.0.
Other features of the MAX497 include a full-power -3dB bandwidth
of over 200MHz, exceptional gain
flatness (±0.1dB up to 120MHz),
low distortion, very low differential
phase/gain error between the four
channels and the ability to drive four
back-terminated 75Ω (or 50Ω) output
cables simultaneously.
As shown in Fig.1, we’re using one
amplifier for the com
posite video
channel and another two amplifiers for
the Y and C channels for S-video. Each
amplifier has a 75Ω resistor across its
input and these ensure correct termination of the cables from the video
source. In addition, 75Ω resistors are
used in series with each output to
give correct “back termination” of the
output cables.
As mentioned, the amplifiers in the
MAX497 have a feedback-controlled
gain of exactly two. This compensates
for the attenuation produced by the
interaction between the back termination resistors and the termination
resistors at the far end of the output
cables.
In effect, the Video Booster “restores” the incoming signal before
feeding it to the next cable segment.
The input and output connections
to the composite video amp channel
are made via RCA sockets, as these are
now standard for domestic equipment.
Similarly, the connections for the
S-video channels are made via 4-pin
“mini DIN” sockets, as these too are the
accepted standard for S-video.
Note that the fourth “spare” amplifier in the MAX497 is also provided
with input and output termination
resistors. This is done to ensure that
it doesn’t interact with the three active
channels. The resistors will also make
it easy to use the spare channel if you
ever need it.
The two audio line amplifier channels are provided by the two halves
of an LM833 dual low-noise op amp
(IC2). As shown, these two stages are
identically connected as non-inverting buffers, with the 100kΩ resistors
providing negative feedback for a gain
of two.
The performance of these audio
buffers is quite respectable. They have
a frequency response from 30Hz to
120kHz at the -1dB points, a THD (total
harmonic distortion) below .006% for
2V RMS output, a signal-to-noise ratio
of better than 91dB relative to 2V RMS
output, and an output clipping level
of just on 14V peak-to-peak (5V RMS).
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The audio buffers operate with a
gain of two to ensure sufficient signal
to drive your remote power amplifiers,
etc. However there may be cases where
even this small amount of gain could
cause problems - producing distortion
due to input stage overloading, for
example.
If that turns out to be the case with
your particular application, there’s
a simple modification which can be
done to solve the problem. All you
need do is remove the 100kΩ resistors connecting pins 2 and 6 of IC2
to ground. This turns the buffers into
unity-gain voltage followers, increasing the overload margin by 6dB.
Power supply
The power supply section is quite
straightforward, even though the video and audio amplifiers require four
separate DC supply rails. The MAX497
requires ±5V supply rails, while the
LM833 require ±9V rails.
Because the overall current drain
is quite low (about 100mA total), two
simple half-wave rectifier circuits
(D1 & D2) are used to derive nominal
±12.8V DC rails from 9V AC plugpack.
These rails are filtered using two
2200µF capacitors and then fed to
3-terminal regulators REG1 and REG2.
REG1 and REG2 produce the +9V
and -9V rails respectively. They also
drive 3-terminal regulators REG3 and
REG4 which produce the ±5V rails.
LED1 is driven from the +9V rail via
a 1kΩ current-limiting resistor and
provides power on/off indication.
The associated 100µF and 10µF capacitors are used to filter the regulator
outputs. The ±9V supply rails are then
further decoupled using 10Ω resistors
and 2.2µF capacitors before being fed
to IC2. Four 100nF capacitors provide
additional filtering for the ±5V rails
to IC1.
Construction
All the parts are mounted directly
on a small PC board, so the unit is easy
to build. This includes all the connec
tors, so there’s no off-board wiring at
all inside the booster box.
The PC board measures 117 x
102mm and is coded 02104031. It’s
double sided, with copper tracks
on both top and bottom, but the top
pattern is mainly an earthed ground
plane. Only a handful of component
leads are soldered to this top pattern,
so we don’t need a board with expensiliconchip.com.au
Fig.2: the booster circuit is based on a Maxim MAX497 quad video buffer
IC (IC1). One amplifier in IC1 is used for the composite video channel,
while another two are used for the Y and C channels for S-video. Op amps
IC2a & IC2b (LM833) boost the left and right channel audio signals.
December 2005 21
This photo shows how the
power indicator LED is
mounted on the PC board
and pushed through a
matching hole in the front
panel.
Left: inside the completed
booster unit. Keep all
component leads as short as
possible and be sure to
solder the leads to both sides
of the board where
necessary, as indicated by
the red dots on Fig.3.
sive plated-through holes.
Fig.3 shows the assembly details.
Begin by fitting all the input and
output connectors, as they often need
a small amount of juggling and pin
straightening before they’ll mount
without stress. Make sure that they’re
pushed down hard against the board,
while you make the solder connections
underneath.
Next, fit the two PC board terminal
pins (for the input and output of the
spare video channel), followed by the
resistors and the diodes D1 and D2. Be
sure to fit each diode the correct way
around as shown on Fig.3.
Note that some of the resistors have
their “earthy” ends soldered to the top
copper pattern as well as to the pad
underneath. The leads concerned are
shown with a red dot on the board
overlay diagram.
The four voltage regulators can go
in next. These are all TO-220 packages
and are mounted horizontally on the
top of the board. Be sure to fit each one
in the correct position, as all four are
different and mixing them up could
result in component damage when
you apply power.
All regulator leads are bent downwards 6mm from the package body.
This allows you to mount them by
pushing the leads down through the
mating holes and then fastening their
tabs down against the copper using
6mm x M3 machine screws and nuts.
The leads are then soldered to the pads
underneath and, in some cases, to the
top pads as well - see Fig.3.
The two 2200µF capacitors and the
two 100µF capacitors adjacent to REG1
and REG2 can go in next. Make sure
you fit all of these polarised parts the
correct way around, as shown in Fig.3.
LED1 is fitted with its “flat” cathode
side to the left (ie, furthest away from
CON4). To install it, first bend both
its leads bent down 90°, 6mm away
from the LED body. That done, it can
be soldered into place with its axis
exactly 8mm above the PC board.
Power supply checks
At this stage, it’s a good idea to
check all of the power supply wiring
by plugging the lead from your 9V AC
plugpack into CON9 and turning on
the power. LED1 should immediately
light and you can now check the regulator outputs. You should get +9V
from REG1, -9V from REG2, +5V from
REG3 and -5V from REG4.
These voltages are all measured relative to earth and at the righthand pin
of each regulator, as indicated on Fig.3.
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
o
o
o
o
o
o
No.
4
2
3
8
2
22 Silicon Chip
Value
100kΩ
47kΩ
1kΩ
75Ω
10Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black yellow brown
yellow violet orange brown
brown black red brown
violet green black brown
brown black black brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black orange brown
yellow violet black red brown
brown black black brown brown
violet green black gold brown
brown black black gold brown
siliconchip.com.au
Table 2: Capacitor Codes
o
o
o
o
Value
IEC Code EIA Code
1.0µF 1u0 105
220nF 220n 224
100nF 100n 104
If everything is correct, you can
switch off and continue fitting the
remaining parts to the PC board.
Conversely, if one or more of the
regulator outputs is incorrect, switch
off immediately and check for wiring
errors. Most likely, you’ll have made
a mistake fitting D1 or D2, one of the
electrolytic capacitors or one of the
regulators. With a bit of luck, you’ll be
able to fix the problem and not have
to replace any parts.
Completing the PC board
The remaining parts can now be
fitted to the board, starting with the
MKT audio coupling capacitors, the
2.2µF tantalum bypass capacitors and
the 10µF electrolytic capacitors. The
two ICs can then be installed, taking
care that you fit each one the correct
way around.
Note that the pins for IC2 (the
LM833) are only soldered to the copper
pads underneath, while some of the
pins for IC1 (the MAX497) are soldered
to the top copper pattern as well. This
applies to pins 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11 & 13.
The next components to fit are the
two 100nF bypass capacitors, which
are at each end of IC1. These mount
with their “earthy” leads soldered to
the top copper pattern as well as the
pads underneath. That done, fit the
two remaining 100nF bypass capacitors for IC1 and the remaining 10µF
electrolytic capacitor for the -5V rail.
As before their leads are soldered to
pads on the top of the board, with their
“earthy” leads soldered to the bottom
pads as well.
Final assembly
All that remains now is to fit the
booster board to the case.
First, you have to fit the front and
rear panels over their respective RCA
connectors, before lowering the three
items together into the bottom of the
case. That done, LED1 can be pushed
into its 3mm mating hole on the front
panel and the board secured to integral
pillars in the bottom of the case using
eight 6mm self-tapping screws.
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Fig.3: install the parts on the double-sided PC board as shown here. The red
dots indicate where component leads must be soldered to the copper tracks on
the top of the board (and usually underneath as well).
Be sure to use all eight screws to
secure the PC board. These are necessary to give the board added support
in the vicinity of the various input and
output connectors.
The final step of all is to fit the top
of the case, using the two long countersink-head self tappers provided. Don’t
lose these screws by the way, because
they’re a special size and surprisingly
hard to get.
Your Video & Audio Booster is now
be finished and ready for use.
Component video cables
Before we end up, let’s take a look
at the adaptor cables required if you
want to use the booster for component
video signals.
There’s nothing terribly complicated about this. All you need to do is
buy or make up four cables - two for
the luminance (Y) signals and two for
the chrominance (Cb and Cr) signals.
The cables for the Y signals each
consist of single lengths of coax with
an RCA plug at each end. These connect to the booster’s composite video
channel, as shown in Fig.1(c).
The other two cables are each of
double coax, with a mini-DIN plug
connected at one end and a pair of
RCA plugs at the other. They are used
to carry the Cb and Cr chrominance
signals and are connected to the booster’s S-video channels.
Note that both RCA-RCA and 2 x
RCA-miniDIN video cables are available from many suppliers. However,
you may want to make up your own
using high quality coaxial cable, to
ensure lower signal degradation - especially if you have fairly long cable
runs. Some prewired cables leave a bit
to be desired in this respect.
By using the correct adaptor cables,
the booster will operate just as effectively with component video as it does
with composite video or S-video.
Happy home theatre viewing! SC
December 2005 23
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