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Over the years, SILICON CHIP has presented
many timers – they are amongst the most
popular of school projects. Here’s how a
reader “made” a timer for a darkroom
enlarger – the parts are readily available
from council cleanups or rubbish dumps!
F
or what they do – basically, turn
an enlarger lamp on for a certain (controllable) time and back
off again, darkroom timers are very
expensive beasts.
Perhaps part of the reason is that
the popularity of do-it-yourself photo
processing is nothing like it was in
years gone by – hence less timers are
made – but that doesn’t change the fact
that they are expensive.
Come to think of it, they have always
been pretty exe!
Yet timers per se are now made in
(probably) the hundreds of millions
every year. Just about every commercial
84 Silicon Chip
appliance these days seems to have
a timer of some sort. Just take a look
around you. They’re everywhere!
Which leads us directly into this
article...
One of our readers, Jess Benning,
was asked by a workmate to make an
economic enlarger timer for her daughter, who was studying photography
at school.
“Too easy,” he thought. “A microprocessor controlling a transistor
switching a relay . . .” Then he added
up the cost. By the time added a power
supply and put it in a suitable box, it
would probably be a good fifty dollars
Words by Ross Tester
From an idea
(and photos) by
Jess Benning
or so. Surely there was a cheaper way?
With that thought in the back of his
mind, he forgot about the project for a
few days; that is, until he happened to
visit a recycling centre at the local tip.
There, sitting on the shelf, were
several microwave ovens, all with
inbuilt timers. “What’s that? Timers?
I wonder if . . .”
People mainly throw out microwave
ovens for two reasons. The obvious
one is that they don’t work – or at
least they don’t heat (more often than
not it is a relatively simple fix but we
won’t go into that – microwave ovens
are lethal devices).
www.siliconchip.com.au
The less obvious reason is that the
microwave oven still works perfectly
– but they have broken the (usually
glass or ceramic) platter.
If you have ever tried to replace one
of those as a spare part, you’ll know
what we mean when we say it’s often
more economic to buy a whole new
microwave oven!
Back to our story: if the microwave
oven doesn’t heat, it’s usually the
high voltage supply which has failed.
Sometimes it’s the magnetron but that
is much less likely. But the timer, powered by its own low voltage supply,
usually still works.
“The timer . . . still works?” You’re
probably one jump ahead of us, right?
Of course – use the microwave oven
timer as an enlarger timer.
All you have to do is find a suitable
microwave oven!
Wait! They’re dangerous!
But hang on a sec: didn’t we say a
minute ago that microwave ovens are
lethal devices?
Yes we did – and for that reason we
are going to say very clearly: NEVER
take the lid off a microwave oven and
apply power (or work on a live one!).
Even if the magnetron is not working,
you have a high voltage mains transformer which can very easily kill (and
indeed has done so in the past).
Please read that last paragraph
again, out aloud.
Even qualified technicians don’t
like working on microwave ovens because they know just how dangerous
they can be – the 5000VDC or so high
tension of a microwave is dramatically
more dangerous than the 20-30,000V
high tension of a colour TV set. The
difference is the microwave high tension is designed to supply real current!
Here’s a tip. If (as we are doing here)
you want to “rat” the timer from a microwave oven, once you’ve established
that the timer section still works (ie,
the display works), unplug the oven
and then cut the mains cord off. That
way, you (or someone else) won’t be
caught dead. Literally.
Even then, a microwave oven is not
100% safe. We’ll look at other precautions you should take with a “dead”
microwave oven shortly.
What’s in a microwave oven?
We’re getting a little ahead of ourselves here. Let’s go back and have
a look at a typical microwave oven.
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Here’s the pushbutton control pad as removed from the microwave oven. It is a
pretty simple job as long as you are careful with the flexible keypad and ribbon
cable. Almost hidden inside the box, alongside the transformer, is one of the two
relays from the microwave oven: this switches power to the enlarger lamp supply.
Inside, there are six main parts:
1. low voltage power supply
2. timing circuitry / display / keypad
3. high voltage power supply
4. door interlocks
5. magnetron
6. light, fan(s) and platter motor
All that is needed for this project are
parts 1 and 2 – and yes, they are quite
easily distinguishable. Or more to the
point, the high voltage components and
magnetron are very easily distinguishable – you need what is left.
Incidentally, if you cannot readily
work out which bits are which in the
microwave, you shouldn't be attempting to reproduce this project.
The microwave oven was bought for
$15.00 from “Revolve” (the recycling
centre at the local tip. Pretty apt name
for selling microwave ovens, eh?).
A relatively late model Sharp was
chosen because the timer gave a couple of nice features: a digital clock
(of course!) which you could see in
the dark and an “auto start” function
which was intended to turn the oven
on for one minute – a feature which
would be very handy for focussing.
Even dead microwaves can bite!
The magnetron power supply basically consists of a high voltage transformer (circa 3000V AC), a diode and
a capacitor, yielding about 5000V DC.
Usually there is some form of control to vary the proportion of time the
magnetron is turned on, thus varying
the output power. It’s pretty simple.
But there is a catch for young (and
not-so-young) players. The capacitor
can sometimes retain its charge for a
very long time after turn-off.
In many (most?) ovens there is a
bleed resistor across the capacitor to
help discharge it after turn-off but there
is no guarantee that the resistor has
done its job or is even still intact.
If the bleed resistor is open circuit,
(or non-existent) the high voltage capacitor could still easily have several
thousand volts on it days, weeks or
perhaps even months after its last use.
Such a high level of charge could
still be lethal, or at best give you a
very nasty bite.
It’s not just uncomfortable – the
shock can make you suddenly jerk your
hand away and possibly jag it on some
close metal. Trust us, it happens.
The moral of this part of the story
is to never trust a microwave oven
power supply, dead or alive. Again,
let’s reiterate – NEVER poke around a
live microwave oven and be extremely
careful poking around a dead one.
We would ALWAYS discharge the
high voltage capacitor before working
on a microwave. The most usual way
to do this is to short out the terminals
with a large, well insulated screwdriver (note we said the most usual way, not
necessarily the best way!). Beware the
risk of bits of molten metal flying off if
August 2003 85
Fitting the timer into a case: this was nice and easy. A
suitable cutout in the lid lets us read the display, while
the pushbutton control pad was transferred to the case lid
complete with its multi-way flexicable. The photo at right
shows the finished project, complete with the (red) mini
power outlet fitted to the side of the case. All you have to
do is punch in the time required, hit “start” and voila!
there is significant charge. Of course we would always wear
insulated gloves and a pair of goggles doing this.
And here’s yet another trap for young players: you’ve
discharged the high voltage capacitor and then left the microwave for, say, a couple of days. You touch the capacitor
terminals and get a real bite!
What can happen is that the charge can build back up
again over time – and it could be several hundred volts or
so. To prevent this, a clip lead should be used to short out
the capacitor terminals, once discharged.
What to do now?
OK, so you’ve made sure the oven is off, the power plug
is disconnected and (preferably) the lead cut off. You have
also made sure that the high voltage capacitor is discharged
and cannot recharge or be touched.
Now you have to identify the low-voltage supply and
timer circuit. Fortunately, this is usually fairly easy: it
Inside a Sharp microwave oven. The high voltage supply
is under the white cover. The wanted timer and control
circuitry is clearly separate on the left side.
86 Silicon Chip
almost always has a separate (much smaller) transformer
and power supply and you will probably find in most
microwave ovens the timer circuitry is modular – often
directly attached to the display/timer settings (but if not,
certainly connected via a wiring loom or ribbon.)
Inside the microwave, there are usually two relays – one
controls the magnetron and the other the turntable motor
and blower fan (if fitted). Because these are both controlled
by the timer circuit, you should be able to use one of these
relays virtually “as is” to control the enlarger lamp.
It’s then simply a matter of connecting the relay contacts
so they switch the enlarger lamp supply.
Because the low-voltage supply is mains powered and
in all probability the enlarger lamp supply is also run
either directly off the mains or via a mains power supply,
the timer/display/relay assembly should be mounted in a
suitable case to make it completely safe. Our reader also
chose to fit a small mains outlet to the side of the case to
make it all self-contained – that is entirely up to you.
Not all of the keypad is used – only the digits and “start”
buttons are really needed. Other oven-specific keypad
contacts which are not used can be left out.
The oven selected had a semi-flexible keypad. When
fitting the keypad, to be able roll the unused pads up, the
layers of backing need to be removed. To make it able to
be rolled up the stiff layer should be cut and removed.
To stop the unused buttons from staying on permanently
once you roll up the unused bit, the carbon conduction layer
needs to be removed and some contact or tape put over the
switch layer to stop it from shorting to anything else.
If the LED display is too bright for your darkroom, it’s
quite easy to layer the display with filter film and cut it
back to an appropriate level. That is much easier than
trying to dim the display.
Of course, this timer (which can be set to 99 minutes
and 99 seconds) doesn’t have to be used in the darkroom.
It’s handy for a wide variety of mains-powered timing
applications.
www.siliconchip.com.au
How does a microwave oven work?
Most people are aware that microwave ovens
cook or warm food very quickly. But just how do
they do it?
Let’s look at the easy part of the answer first.
Microwave energy inside a microwave oven excites
molecules of water and fat (which are present in
practically all food). As the molecules get excited,
they give off energy – in the form of heat. Excite
the molecules enough and collectively they give off
enough energy to warm or cook the food.
Microwave energy doesn’t penetrate the food
very deeply – and in many foods penetrates to
different levels. That’s why you can get food cooked Basic arrangement of a typical microwave oven. Microwave
on the outside but not on the inside. However, a output from the magnetron is stirred up and fed into the oven
microwave oven normally does do a better job than chamber where it interracts with the water and fat molecules
a standard oven which cooks from the outside in, in the food, result in heat and cooking.
by conduction.
Incidentally, the air inside a microwave oven is only
Because microwaves tend to travel in straight lines, they
marginally above room temperature. Therefore it plays no need to be “stirred” to ensure they cover every nook and
part in the heating/cooking process (unlike a conventional cranny of the oven. This is done with either a fan in the
oven, where the air is heated).
microwave’s path, or by turning the food to be heated on a
And microwave energy does not affect most plastics, turntable or in many ovens, both.
glass, ceramics, etc (although some may have additives
Finally, a system of door interlocks ensures that if the
which are affected). That’s why you can usually use these door is opened while the microwave oven is on, power is
materials in a microwave oven without their melting!
immediately cut to the magnetron to avoid cooking anything
else (or anyone else) in front of the door.
How do the microwaves get there?
Microwaves are a type of radio wave; a super high fre- Who invented the microwave oven?
quency radio wave. They are generated by a special type
The correct answer is no-one!
of vacuum tube diode called a magnetron.
The effect was discovered quite by accident just after
In the tube, electrons are emitted by a heated cathode the second world war when a radar engineer at Raytheon
and, being negatively charged, are repelled by the neg- Corporation, Dr Percy Spencer, noticed that a candy bar
atively-polarised cathode. Instead of travelling straight in his pocket melted when he was experimenting with a
towards the positively-polarised anrelatively new kind of vacuum tube (you
ode (as in a normal diode tube) the
guessed it, the magnetron). He tried
electrons are deflected by the magplacing popcorn kernels near the tube
netic fields of very powerful magnets
– and they promptly started popping.
around the device (hence its name,
The magnetron, by the way, was
magnetron).
invented back in 1940 by two English
They actually start to spiral, or spin,
scientists as a major (and successful)
towards the cathode. Now the anode
component of the Allies’ radar system
in a magnetron is not a plate, like a
during the war.
diode – it is in fact a number of high-Q
Next day, Spencer was demonstrating
resonant LC circuits, called cavities,
this to a colleague by placing an egg
effectively connected in parallel.
near the tube. If you’ve ever placed an
What happens when a resonant
egg in a microwave oven, you’ll know
LC circuit intersects the path of an
what happened next: it exploded –
electron flow? It generates an eleccooked – all over the colleague!
tromagnetic field – radio waves, if you
Dr Spencer then made a metal box,
like – in this case, at microwave level
into which he directed all of the micro(the actual frequency, usually about
wave energy. Unable to escape, the
2.4GHz, is controlled by the cavities). A typical domestic oven magnetron.
density of microwaves became even
The magnetron has a small trans- The socket at right applies power; the
greater and food placed in the box
mitting antenna, designed to radiate cylinder at the top is the antenna.
cooked quickly. The microwave oven
the microwave energy from the caviwas “born”, even though it took some
ties at maximum efficiency. But the microwaves aren’t allowed
twenty years before the first domestic microwave oven was
to get out into free space. They are collected by a waveguide released.
and “piped” into the microwave oven, itself designed for
Now you’d be hard-pressed to find too many homes in
SC
maximum efficiency at microwave frequencies.
the developed world without one!
www.siliconchip.com.au
August 2003 87
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