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VINTAGE RADIO
By RODNEY CHAMPNESS, VK3UG
The “Jelly Mould” STC 205
Mantel/Table Receiver
The 1948 STC 205 dual-wave receiver was a
rather unusual set, especially when it came to
cabinet design. In addition, there were some
rather unusual circuit “quirks” in what was
otherwise a fairly conventional 5-valve superhet.
At first glance, the STC 205 doesn’t
appear to be really any different from
a hundred other 5-valve dual-wave
receivers, circa 1948. But it is different
– the cabinet slips over the top of the
set like a tea-cosy does over a teapot.
In fact, the cabinet style reminds many
people of a jelly mould, hence the
nickname given to the set.
The dial-scale is at the top of the set
and is angled at about 45°. This fact,
coupled with the overall styling of the
cabinet, makes it difficult to decide
whether the set is intended as a table
or mantel set – or is intended to be
both. Certainly, it would not look out
of place on a table as the cabinet style
is almost the same front and back. It
does, however, have a cutout in the
back of the cabinet near the top, which
acts as a carrying handle.
This seems to suggest that it is
primarily intended as a table set.
However, it is small enough and slim
enough to sit happily on a mantelpiece, although viewing the dial-scale
wouldn’t be all that easy.
As shown in the photos, the STC 205
has four control knobs and these are
located on either side of the cabinet.
Each of these is slid onto the shaft and
held in place using a machine screw
which goes through the centre of the
knob and into the end of the control
shaft. I am not aware of any other domestic receivers that use this method
of securing the control knobs.
An unloved STC 205
The STC 205 featured an angled dial-scale and an unusual cabinet that slid over
the chassis from the top.
82 Silicon Chip
My STC 205 receiver was obtained
in fair condition only and needed quite
a lot of work to restore it to working
order. The cabinet was very dull and
scruffy, the dial-scale cover and the
cardboard chassis cover were missing,
the power lead had been “repaired”
with tape and one knob was missing.
Fortunately, mice had not been in residence but the chassis was corroded
and was covered in dirt, cobwebs and
other debris from storage in a less than
ideal environment.
The chassis isn’t all that hard to get
out of its cabinet, although the procedure is somewhat different to normal.
First, the four knobs are removed by
undoing the screws that go into the
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This view shows the bottom of the set with the cardboard cover removed. Access
to the various components is quite good, although the cabinet has to be removed
to allow access to the valves which are on the top of the chassis.
control shafts, then sliding the knobs
off (see photo). That done, you have to
undo the four screws through the rubber buffers on the base of the set, after
which the buffers and the cardboard
bottom plate are removed.
The final step is to undo the four
pillars that hold the chassis to the
cabinet. Once this has been done, it’s
simply a matter of lifting the cabinet
off the chassis.
From the photographs, it can be seen
that the chassis is well-populated with
components and there is not much
spare space. Despite this, access to the
various components and to the valves
is quite easy.
Cleaning up the mess
The speaker cloth was dirty, so it
was removed and washed in soapy
water. It was then thoroughly rinsed,
stretched slightly and laid to dry (the
cloth tends to shrink a little as it dries).
Similarly, the cabinet and knobs were
given a complete clean in the laundry
tub using detergent, warm water and a
good scrub with a nail brush.
Once clean and dry, the cabinet and
knobs were given a cut and polish
using car polish, which restored the
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original sparkle. That done, the speak
er cloth was replaced and glued in
position using contact adhesive.
As mentioned earlier, the clear celluloid dial-scale cover was missing.
This was replaced with a cover cut
from a clear shirt-box lid and glued
into place using epoxy adhesive.
The next job involved cleaning
the chassis and this was mainly
achieved using a kitchen scouring pad
dampened with household kerosene.
However, there are many awkward
nooks and crannies on the chassis
which made this job difficult and the
end result was only satisfactory – it
certainly doesn’t have a pristine, “justout-of-the-factory” look.
If necessary, the pad can be cut up
and pushed into awkward spots with
a screwdriver and moved around.
This helps to get most of the gunk off
the chassis and components and I’ve
found that kerosene-dampened scouring pads are quite effective for this job.
It’s not a good idea to use steel wool,
as small slivers of steel can end up
in the chassis where you don’t want
them and cause shorts and possible
damage to the set.
Anyway, although not perfect, the
end result was quite presentable. As
a final touch-up, the dial pointer was
painted white, as it had discoloured
over the years.
Overhauling the circuitry
The set also had a few electrical
problems. First, the power lead was
replaced with a fresh twin figure-8
lead and because the set doesn’t have
an on-off switch, an in-line mains
switch was fitted. Today, I would be
inclined to fit a 3-core power lead for
extra safety.
The valves were all cleaned using
Each knob is secured using a screw
which passes through the centre and
into the end of the control shaft.
July 2003 83
This rear-view of the chassis show just how easy it is to access the valves once
the cabinet has been lifted off.
soapy water. This was done by holding the valves upside down and only
washing the glass envelopes, to keep
moisture from getting into the base.
It’s also important not to wash any
printing off the glass envelopes (eg,
the type number) during this process.
A lead on the loudspeaker transformer was found to have a dry joint
and this lead fell off as soon as it was
touched. I wonder how many strange
effects occurred over the years because
of this bad solder joint? The speaker
transformer had never been replaced,
so it was not a “new” problem.
Next, the two high-tension (HT)
electrolytics were replaced and an
audio bypass capacitor (C14) – omitted at the time of manufacture – was
added. As a result, with both the
dry joint resoldered and the missing
capacitor fitted, this is one set that
undoubtedly now performs better
than brand new.
There were a few other problems as
well. Resistor R13 had gone open circuit while R15 had gone high in value,
so both were replaced. These defective
resistors would have reduced the bias
on the 6V6GT audio output valve to
zero if the set had been turned on. As
a result, the 6V6GT would have drawn
excessive current if this fault was still
present and this may have destroyed
the valve.
From this, it can be seen that it’s
important to track down and correct
as many faults as possible before deciding to “give ‘er a go”. Faults like
those described above, plus leaky
coupling capacitors and open-circuit
loudspeaker transformers, can create
havoc if not corrected before the set is
switched on.
Four paper capacitors were also
found to be leaky and these were
replaced. These included two HT
bypasses (C13 and C17), the AGC
capacitor (C7) and the audio coupler
(C22). In addition, several perished
grommets were replaced, a new longer
antenna lead was fitted, a dial lamp
was replaced and a dry joint at the
lamp socket was resoldered.
That done, the valves were refitted
to the set so that it could be tested.
First, however, I set my multimeter
to a range greater than the expected
HT voltage (around 250V) and connected it between the output of the
6X5GT rectifier and chassis. The set
was then switched on and the HT
voltage checked. As expected, it was
around 250V with the new electrolytic
capacitors.
Note that if the 6X5-GT rectifier
had been low in emission, the HT
voltage may have been quite a bit
lower.
Anyway, the set did work but the IF
stage was unstable and the earthing of
the valve shield around the 6U7G was
poor. Fixing this problem involved
further cleaning of the chassis around
the base of this valve, to make sure
that the shield was properly earthed.
This eliminated the problem at the
time but the performance of this stage
deteriorated later on and a fresh 6U7G
had to be substituted to eliminate
the whistles and crackles that had
developed.
Alignment
The bottom of the receiver is fitted with a cardboard cover and a sticker that
shows the valve layout.
84 Silicon Chip
Alignment of the STC 205 receiver
was quite straightforward. First, a digital multimeter – set to the 0-20V DC
www.siliconchip.com.au
Watch Out For Asbestos
In Vintage Radios
Over the last few years, there has
been considerable publicity about
the dangers of contracting cancer
and other nasty diseases due to
contact with asbestos. As such,
readers should be aware that some
old radio receivers included sheets
of asbestos, usually fitted close to
valves to prevent damage to heat
heat-sensitive components and to
the cabinet.
Any receivers with asbestos in
them should be treated with extreme caution. Do not work on such
sets until you have sought expert
advice as how to the asbestos can
be safely removed or stabi
lised
within the set.
range – was connected across R9. With
the tuning gang closed, the set was
then switched to the broadcast band
and a signal generator – set at 455kHz
with tone modulation – connected to
the aerial and earth terminals of the
receiver.
The signal generator output was
then increased and the output frequency varied slightly to see if the
intermediate frequency (IF) was exactly 455kHz. In this case, it was close
enough. The IF transformer slugs were
then adjusted for maximum reading on
the multimeter, the signal generator
output being continuously reduced
as each section was aligned.
If you don’t have a signal generator, the procedure is to tune to a
local station and vary the size of the
antenna until the signal into the set
is strong enough to give a reading on
the multimeter. The set doesn’t have
to be exactly on 455 kHz – it’s just a
matter of adjusting the IF stages for
best performance.
Next, the oscillator coil core (slug)
is adjusted so that a station at the
low-frequency end of the broadcast
band (ie, around 600kHz) appears at its
correct location on the dial. The aerial/
antenna coil is then adjusted at around
the same spot on the dial.
That done, you simply tune to
around 1500kHz and adjust the oscillator trimmer capacitor (if necessary) so
that a known station appears at its correct dial location. The aerial trimmer
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Fig.1: the STC 205 is a fairly conventional 5-valve dual-wave receiver with
a couple of unusual features.
is then adjusted for best performance
at the same frequency.
These adjustments interact to some
extent, so it’s a matter of repeating
these adjustments at both ends of the
dial until no further improvements
can be obtained.
By the way, the trimmers in this
model are made out of short lengths
of thick enamelled wire (about 30mm
long), each of which has several turns
of tinned copper wire wound onto it.
July 2003 85
This view shows the chassis from the front. The angled dial-scale is mounted on
an L-shaped bracket which is supported on the chassis base using a couple of
metal pillars.
The actual capacitance is varied by
altering the amount of tinned wire
over the enamelled wire. If you take
too much off, you will have to solder
more thin tinned copper wire onto the
end of the original winding.
This can be a messy business and
so most people tend to leave such
trimmers well alone. If the set does not
appear to be down in performance, I’d
also be inclined to leave them as they
are rather than risk it.
The shortwave band is aligned in
the same way as the broadcast band
except that the frequencies are higher. The low-frequency end should be
aligned at about 7MHz and the high
end at around 16MHz.
Note that on shortwave, problems
can arise with image reception and
this can upset the alignment. For
more detailed alignment procedures,
readers should refer to my article in
the February 2003 issue.
A walk-through the circuit
Fig.1 shows the circuit details of
the STC 205. The first thing to note
is that the antenna tuned circuits are
a little different to other receivers.
For starters, the broadcast-band antenna coil’s primary resonates below
the broadcast band and this gives
improved performance at the lowfrequency end of the dial.
In addition, trimmer C1 (for the
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high-frequency end of the dial) is
wired across the tops of the two wind
ings in the antenna coil. This boosts
the coupling from the antenna to the
tuned circuit, although it is unusual to
have the trimmer in this position. Most
sets have this trimmer going from the
grid of the RF valve to chassis.
By contrast, the shortwave coil has a
capacitor (C3) in series with its primary winding. A capacitor placed in this
position has the effect of electrically
shortening the antenna and perhaps
this was the intent. Using an “average” antenna of around 6-7 metres,
the antenna system would resonate
somewhere near the high end of the
shortwave band.
By the way, if you look carefully at
the two antenna coils you will see a
drafting error – both coils show the coil
adjustment in the untuned winding!
Someone didn’t spot this when checking the circuit diagram.
The oscillator circuit is conventional but there is a right royal blunder
in this circuit too! C13, which has
a value of 50nF (0.05µF), is shown
wired across the feedback windings
of both oscillator coils. However, if
this had really been done, the oscillator would have no feedback due to
the heavy damping of the winding by
the capacitor. The bottom end of C13
should in fact go to earth.
The IF stage is conventional and
uses a 6U7G followed by a 6B6G as a
combined detector, simple AGC and
first audio stage. The 6U7G and the
6B6G share a common cathode bias
resistor and common bypass capacitors. This is unusual, as the 6U7G
will draw less current as the AGC
voltage increases which will mean
that the voltage across R10 will also
drop. This in turn will reduce the bias
on the 6B6G and alter its operating
conditions.
It’s a strange design quirk that appears to have no redeeming features.
The audio output stage is also quite
conventional and uses a 6V6GT audio
output valve. However, I find it puzzling that cathode bias is not used in
this stage, as all other stages of the
receiver use this method. It would
also have been quite practical to use
back bias on all stages instead of just
the 6V6GT stage.
As with a great deal of other STC
equipment, the filter choke is in the
negative power supply lead. This reduces the voltage stress between the
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Photo Gallery: Stromberg
Carlson Model 496 Receiver
VALVES
AUDIO HI-FI
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Manufactured by Stromberg Carlson (Sydney) in 1936, the Model 496 is a 4-valve
superhet housed in a substantial wooden mantel cabinet.
The set used a mixture of valve types which required individual 4V, 5V and 6V heater
windings on the transformer. The valve types used were: 6C6 (autodyne mixer), 6F7 (IF
amplifier and detector), AL3 (audio output) and 80 (rectifier).
The high-gain AL3, with its 4V heater and “P” type base, was probably chosen to compensate for the lack of a separate audio preamplifier stage. It would have been one of
the few high-gain output pentodes available at the time, with a “gm” nearly four times
that of the more commonly-used type 42.
The same chassis was also used in the Model 436 console receiver. (Photo: Historical
Radio Society of Australia, Inc).
choke frame and the winding. And
as is common in other receivers of
this vintage, there is no decoupling
between the audio output plate circuit
and the plate circuits of any other
amplifying stages. As far as I am con
cerned, this is poor design and can
lead to receiver instability.
Hopefully, the faults in mine were an
isolated occurrence.
In summary, this STC receiver is
quite different to many other sets,
particularly when it comes to cabinet
style. As such, it is a collectable item
if only because of its unique style.
Summary
In February 2003, page 81, second
column, the last two sentences in the
last full paragraph should be corrected
to read: “If it improves, more turns
are needed and if it gets worse, either
fewer turns are needed or the stage is
accurately tuned. A brass slug (from
an old volume control) inserted into
the coil should give a slight increase
in performance if the coil inductance
is too high”.
“If the performance deteriorates using
either the ferrite or brass slugs, the tuned
SC
circuit is accurately tuned”.
Although this set has a number of
less than perfect design features, its
performance is quite satisfactory and
it is quite a pleasant receiver to use.
The performance is typical of other
dual-wave 5-valve radios of the era.
And although it has nothing at all to do
with the operation of the set, the errors
in the circuit diagram are annoying
and indicate a lack of care in drafting
and checking.
Did this apply to the on-line testing of individual receivers as well?
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Errata
PO Box 487 Drysdale, Vic 3222
76 Bluff Rd., St Leonards, 3223
Tel: (03) 5257 2297; Fax: (03) 5257 1773
Email: evatco<at>pacific.net.au
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July 2003 87
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