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Replace your car’s filament lamps with
LEDs for improved safety
By PETER SMITH
LED Lighting
For Your Car
I
NCREDIBLY BRIGHT Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs) have recently
become available in standard 5mm
packages – bright enough, we believe,
to rival incandescent bulbs in some
applications.
This month, we present five simple
and easy-to-build modules based on
these new, ultra-bright LEDs. These
modules can be used to replace or
supplement a variety of existing automotive lights to improve safety.
Safer, huh?
Do you know why the centre highmount stop lights of some vehicles
use LEDs rather than conventional
filament lamps? For the “high-tech”
look, perhaps?
Maybe, but there’s a much more
important reason; LEDs reduce the
22 Silicon Chip
incidence and severity of rear-end
collisions!
So how is this possible? The answer
is based on the fact that filament lamps
typically take between 120ms and
250ms to ‘light up’ when you hit the
brakes. If that doesn’t sound like much,
Convert These to LEDs
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
High-mount stop lights
Trailer lights
Breakdown lights
Clearance lights
Interior (festoon) lights
Bayonet lamps
Wedge lamps
Almost anything!
then consider the distance travelled in
200ms at 100km/h:
100km/h x 1/3600 x 200ms = 5.5m
Those 5.5 metres could make all the
difference in an emergency braking
situation – a serious accident or none
at all!
The good news is that you can get
that distance back with LED-based
stop lamps, because LEDs ‘light up’
almost instantaneously. Not only that
but the fast turn-on of LEDs makes
them more conspicuous; they have
greater attention-getting power.
LEDs have a number of other advantages over filament lamps, too. They
load vehicle electrical systems by at
least one third less, generate little heat,
require less space and have a very long
service life.
siliconchip.com.au
With all these positives, it seems ludicrous that most new vehicles aren’t
fitted with the latest high-brightness
LED technology. Sure, you’ll see them
in high-end vehicles like the Jaguar
and Maserati. Less-expensive vehicles,
such as Holden’s Monaro, use them
in the centre high-mount stop light
(CHMSL) but generally speaking, their
use in tail, stop and turn indicators is
not widespread.
We’re ignoring spoiler-mounted
CHMSLs here, by the way, because
they’re available only on a limited
number of models and are usually
optional.
As far as we can determine, the
only reason for this apparent short
sightedness is cost. And that, of course,
is poised to change in the very near
future, as LED prices come down (and
intensities go up). But why wait? You
can now convert your old-technology
CHMSL to the latest and greatest with
the aid of our LED CHMSL module and
a few simple tools.
This particular module consists of
a single, 150mm-long PC board strip
carrying 16 high-intensity red LEDs,
four resistors and two diodes. It should
fit inside most CHMSL housings without too much difficulty, replacing the
standard 21W filament lamp. But before we describe how that’s done, let’s
take a look at how it works.
How the modules work.
All modules are of the simplest design possible. They consist of one or
more strings of LEDs, current limiting
resistor(s) and in most cases a diode
or two as well.
Referring to the circuit diagram for
the CHMSL module (Fig.1), you can
see than the LEDs are arranged in four
strings. Each string consists of four
LEDs in series with a current limiting
resistor. The resistor sets the current
through the string, as follows:
I = V/R
= VBATT – VDIODE – (4 x VLED) / R
= 12.8V – 0.7V – (4 x 2.0V) / 150Ω
= 27.3mA
VLED is the forward voltage of the
LEDs at the intended current, in our
case about 27mA. This value will
vary between LED types, so you may
need to adjust your resistor values for
optimum results.
Although the high-brightness red
LEDs we’ve specified can be driven
at much higher current levels (up to
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Fig.1: circuit diagrams for all of the red LED modules. Note that we’ve
reduced LED current on the Multidisc and Wedge lamp modules by
increasing the resistor values from 150Ω to 180Ω. This is to allow for the
higher temperatures present in tightly grouped LED arrays.
50mA), we recommend derating to a
maximum of 30mA to allow for the
high temperatures found in automo-
tive interiors. If you’re using different
LEDs, then derate even further to
25mA.
March 2003 23
Fig.2: follow this diagram when assembling your centre high-mount stop lamp board.
This view shows the fully-assembled CHMSL board,
ready for installation inside
the housing. Note that this
particular unit is fitted with
a “wedge” plug, made by
sandwiching two blank PC
boards together as described
in the text.
VDIODE is the forward voltage of the
1N4004 diode. The purpose of this
diode is to protect the LEDs from the
large negative voltage transients (up
to 400V) often present in automotive
electrical systems.
Typical LED reverse breakdown
voltage is somewhere in the region
of 5-6V, so with four LEDs in series
the best we could hope to “stand off”
without the additional diode would
be about 24V.
In cases where there are less than
three LEDs in a string, the 1N4004 also
provides reverse polarity protection.
Without protection, accidental lead
reversal could cause your megabuck
LED bank to glow brighter than the
Sun for a few milliseconds!
An example
OK, let’s look at an example. Suppose you’re using different LEDs to
those shown in the parts list and
you’ve determined that they drop
about 1.8V at 25mA (the forward voltage can be determined from the LED
data sheets or by trial and error). What
value resistors would you use on the
CHMSL module?
24 Silicon Chip
R = V/I
= 12.8V – 0.7V – (4 x 1.8V) / 25mA
= 196Ω
The closest readily available value
to 196Ω is 200Ω, so that would be your
final choice. A 0.25W power rating is
sufficient in most cases.
So far, we’ve only talked about the
CHMSL module but there is little dif-
WARNING
If you have a late-model car, it may
have a lamp failure detector in the brake
lamp circuit. If you convert just the
CHMSL to LED operation, it is unlikely
to be affected. However, if you also convert the stop lamps to LED operation,
the lamp failure detector will almost
certainly operate each time you press
the brake pedal. The fault may even be
recorded in the computer’s diagnostic
memory.
In some prestige cars, such as the
Lexus LS400 and LS430 models, the
CHMSL also has a lamp failure detector
and it will “detect” a lamp failure if the
LED conversion is present. At present,
we have no solution for this problem.
Fig.3: you
may need to
trim away
the standoffs on the
LED leads
so that they
can be positioned right
down on the
PC board
surface.
ference in operation between the five
modules. Some have less LEDs per
string, some have just one (the 10mm
LED on the wedge lamp, for example)
and one requires the diode to be fitted
externally.
Note, however, that we’ve listed
LED colours with each module. This
is because white and blue LEDs have
a significantly higher forward voltage
than red (and other colours) and therefore will not work on modules that
have four LEDs in series.
Likewise, reds (and other colours)
cannot easily be used on the modules
specified for white and blue without
considering the increased resistor
power dissipation requirements.
CHMSL module assembly
Referring to the overlay diagram
in Fig.2, begin by installing the two
diodes and four resistors. Take care
with diode orientation, noting that D1
and D2 go in different ways around.
Next, install all 16 LEDs, aligning
the side with the ‘flat’ (the cathode) as
indicated. This should also be the side
with the shorter lead. We mention this
because the 10mm LEDs we received
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Converting A High-Mount
Stop Light To LEDs
Fitting the CHMSL module (shown at left) to
an existing housing can be achieved with a
little ingenuity. Here’s how we did the job on a
late-model Honda Accord.
(1). The Accord’s CHMSL sits on the parcel shelf and
is retained with two clips accessible from within the
boot space. The entire assembly came away in less
than 10 seconds!
(3). In our case, the replacement LED module was
just the right length for the job. We made a couple
of small right-angle brackets to hold the board
and screwed these to the top of the reflector. Many
other mounting methods are possible, depending
on shape and available space; eg, nylon stand-offs,
cable ties, M2.5 screws, neutral cure silicone sealant, etc. Make sure that the rear of the PC board
cannot contact anything metallic, though.
(2). Once we had the assembly on the bench, it was a
simple matter to separate the red lens from the
reflector to get to the insides. Be careful with the
clips that hold these parts together, as the plastic is
very brittle.
recently were incorrectly polarised;
the flat side was next to the anode
(longer lead). If you’re not sure, use
your multimeter on “diode test” to
verify polarity.
The LEDs should be seated right
down on the PC board surface. Some
LEDs have large standoffs formed into
their leads, making this impossible. If
you have this problem, then measure
between the underside of the LED and
the start of the standoffs (see Fig.3). If
you measure 2.5mm or more, then you
can cut the leads off right at the edge of
the standoffs, as there will be sufficient
length remaining for soldering. Try just
one LED first, though!
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If the standoffs are closer than
2.5mm to the body, then shorten the
leads to about 4mm and using a fineedged pair of electronics sidecutters,
carefully snip away the shoulders of
the standoffs (see Fig.3).
To finish, install the +12V link and
two 150mm flying leads for the +12V
and 0V connections. Any light duty
multi-strand hook-up wire will do.
CHMSL module installation
We chose a late model Honda Accord for our prototype installation
– see photos. We didn’t hack off any
“unnecessary” bits along the way,
thus allowing return to the standard
(4). We didn’t want to
modify the vehicle’s
wiring, so we powered
the LED module
directly from the old
filament lamp socket.
A suitable plug can be
fashioned from two
pieces of PC board,
some glue and a length
of tinned copper wire
(see wedge lamp
details). Be sure to tin
all bare copper areas to
prevent corrosion.
filament lamp configuration if need
be. Adapt our methods to suit your
particular vehicle.
If the module is too long for your
housing but there is plenty of vertical
space, then you can cut it in half and
mount one section directly above the
other. This is possible because we’ve
designed the two sides of the board in
“mirror image”. These smaller sections
could be useful for other applications
as well.
Multidisc module assembly
As the name suggests, the Multidisc
module has multiple uses, some of
which will require the PC board to be
March 2003 25
Fig.4: the overlay diagram for the Multidisc module.
Form the leads of each resistor so that its body sits
directly between adjacent LEDs.
circular in shape. Manufacturers will
probably supply this PC board as a
square, so if you need it to be round,
now is a good time to cut and/or file
it to shape.
That done, install the LEDs, aligning
all cathodes (flat sides) towards the
centre of the board. The LEDs must be
mounted right down on the PC board
surface. If your LEDs have large standoffs that prevent this, then refer to the
assembly instructions for the CHMSL
module for the solution.
Install the three resistors next. Now
turn the board over to the copper side
and install an insulated wire link as
shown on the overlay diagram (Fig.4).
Finally, solder two lengths of light
duty hook-up wire to the +12V (+) and
0V (-) points and pass the ends through
the cable hole.
Unlike the other modules, this one
doesn’t have a diode in series with
the supply. We recommend installing
a 1N4004 diode in series with either
the positive or negative lead and insulating it with heatshrink tubing.
tube with a fine scouring pad or ink
rubber and clean with alcohol. Insert
the tube 2-3mm into the base rim and
solder in place.
(4). Centre the Platform PC board
over the end of the tube and solder in
place. Apply your iron to the copper
tube rather than the PC board so as not
to overheat the latter.
(5). Trial fit an assembled Multidisc
module on the Platform board to de
termine the required lead length. Trim
the +12V wire to length and strip and
tin the end. Pass it through the centre
hole in the Platform board and solder
it to the base tip, building up the solder as needed to get a nicely curved
“bump”.
(6). Pass the 0V (GND) wire through
the outer board hole and trim to 1015mm in length. Stip and tin the end.
(7). Trim both leads of a 1N4004 diode to about 6mm in length and solder
the anode end to the 0V (GND) wire.
Slip a length of heatshrink tubing over
Bayonet lamp assembly
Below are the instructions for the
bayonet lamp assembly, presented in
a step-by-step format to help make the
job easier – see Figs.5 & 6.
(1). Remove the glass bulb and filament from a standard 21W automotive
bayonet lamp. Clean the glue from
around rim of base and several millimetres into the interior. Polish the area
with a fine scouring pad or ink rubber
and clean with alcohol.
(2). Remove solder from the tip.
(3). Cut a standard 14.5mm O.D.
copper water pipe joiner in half and
chamfer one end with a file. Polish the
26 Silicon Chip
Fig.5: the Platform PC board is
unetched (blank copper). To make
one, cut the 26.5mm disc from
blank circuit board material and
drill six 2.5mm holes as show
here. The Multidisc PC board can
be used as a template.
the diode to insulate the connection.
Solder the other (cathode) end of the
diode to the underside of the Platform
PC board.
(8). Attach the Multidisc assembly
to the Platform board using small cable
ties, or for a more permanent job, use
several ‘blobs’ of neutral cure silicone
sealant.
Wedge lamp “skeleton”
assembly (Fig.7)
(1). Prepare the blank (non-copper)
sides of two wedge PC boards so that
all edges are free of burrs and the
surfaces are completely smooth and
clean.
(2). Bond the blank sides together
(copper sides facing out) using a very
thin smear of cyanoacrylate-based
adhesive. Pay particular attention to
alignment; the boards must be exactly
aligned, such that they appear to be
one single unit after bonding.
(3). Touch up the sides with a fine
jewellers file to bring the edges into
perfect alignment. Also, file the shoulders if necessary to ensure that they
are horizontal and in line.
(4). Trial fit the assembly to a wedge
lamp socket. A small chamfer on the
leading edges of the wedge assembly
may make insertion easier.
(5). As supplied, the Disc PC board
may have a series of three holes rather
than a slot in the middle. You’ll need
to file a slot that is just large enough to
accept the head of the wedge assembly.
Make the fit as firm as possible. You
may also need to cut and/or file the
board outline into a circular shape, as
some manufacturers will undoubtedly
supply it as a square.
(6). Assemble the boards, making
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Bayonet Lamp Assembly Details
Fig.6: follow this diagram and the step-by-step instructions in the text to make the Bayonet lamp assembly. The
Multidisc assembly can be fixed in place with neutral cure silicone sealant.
sure that the shoulders of the wedge
assembly firmly contact the underside
of the Disc board. Solder the three pads
on the wedge assembly to the pads on
the underside of the Disc board. Repeat
for the second side.
If the Disc board is double-sided
(has copper on both sides), then repeat
on the top side.
(7). Mount all components as per
the overlay diagrams in Fig.8 and the
text that follows.
The LED bayonet lamp is made by
scrounging the base from a conventional
bayonet lamp and fitting it with a
Multidisc module. Note that the latter
sits on top of a Platform PC board (the
two are secured using silicone sealant).
Wedge lamp assembly
With the wedge lamp “skeleton”
complete, it’s time to mount all the
components. Begin with the eight
5mm LEDs on the Disc board, aligning
the cathode (flat) sides towards the
centre of the board.
Fit the 10mm (centre) LED last. The
flat (cathode) side must be aligned
towards the “dot” side of the board.
The “dot” side is marked with a small
copper dot (pad without a hole) on the
underside. Form the leads as shown
in Fig.7 and push the LED down until
it makes contact with the head of the
Response Times: LEDs Versus Conventional Filament Lamps
After upgrading the Honda’s CHMSL to LEDs, we decided to “get technical” and actually measure the difference
in response between the old and the new. We made up a
couple of phototransistor-based sensors and positioned
one behind the CHMSL and the other behind one of the
stop lights. Our Tektronix scope captured the waveforms
at right when we tapped the brake pedal.
As you’d expect, the blue trace represents the LED
CHMSL light output whereas the yellow represents the
conventional stop light. A rough estimate shows the
filament lamp to be about 150ms behind the LEDs, with
full brilliance at least 200ms later. The rounding on the
leading edge of the LED waveform is caused by voltage
drop in the wiring loom, a result of the stop lamps’ cold
filament current, which momentarily exceeds about 40A.
siliconchip.com.au
March 2003 27
Wedge Lamp Skeleton
Fig.7: here’s how to put together the Wedge lamp “skeleton”. After soldering the Wedge and Disc boards together,
inspect your work for potential solder bridges between pads. This is only important on the “dot” side, as all pads
on the opposite side will be connected with a wire link anyway (see Fig.8).
wedge board assembly.
The three resistors and 1N4004
diode can go in next (see Fig.8). Note
that it is vital that these components
go on the right sides of the wedge
assembly. As shown in Fig.7, the resistors mount on the “dot” side and
the diode on the other.
Component mounting is unconventional in that the leads should not pass
through both PC boards and protrude
from the opposite side. The PC board
holes have been deliberately offset to
prevent this from happening. You’ll
need to bend the leads of each component and trial fit it in place, trimming
back lead lengths just enough so that
they enter their respective holes before
soldering in place.
Finally, solder lengths of tinned copper along the tracks exactly as shown
in Fig.8. The vertical lengths at the
bottom take the place of the filament
Fig.8: the Wedge lamp assembly
details. Be sure to assemble the
“skeleton” before mounting any of
these components. Orientation of
the Disc board can be determined
by a dot on the copper side. This,
strangely enough, is the “dot” side!
The wedge lamp is made up using the Disc board and two
identical Wedge boards. It all goes together as shown in
Figs.7 & 8.
28 Silicon Chip
The LED-powered wedge lamp can be used to replace a
conventional filament lamp in some situations and will
generate much less heat.
siliconchip.com.au
31mm & 41mm
Festoon Lamp Assemblies
Fig.9: the circuit details for the
41mm & 31mm festoon lamps.
Fig.10: the assembly details for the 31mm (left) & 41mm (right) festoon
lamp modules. The end caps are soldered to the PC boards after the parts
have been installed.
The completed festoon lamp assemblies can be plugged
straight into a conventional festoon lamp holder but must
be oriented with the LEDs facing outwards.
lead-outs on the base of a wedge lamp
and need to be positioned so that they
mate with the contacts in the wedge
socket. The horizontal lengths replace
the “bump” on the wedge bulb base
that is captured by a spring clip in the
socket in order to retain the bulb.
The three current-limiting resistors
are mounted vertically on the wedge
assembly and can be insulated with
heatshrink tubing if desired.
The diode goes on the other side of the
wedge assembly. The three long pads
on both wedge boards are soldered to
matching pads on the disc board.
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Festoon lamp assembly
This LED equivalent of the festoon
(interior) lamp can be built in either
a 31mm (2 LED) or 41mm (3 LED)
version. As mentioned previously, you
have the choice of using either white
or blue LEDs.
Referring to Fig.10, begin by installing the LEDs, aligning the flat (cathode)
sides as shown. Be sure that you have
the PC board oriented as shown on the
overlay; the positive side must be on
the left. The “+” and “-” symbols on
the copper side allow you to determine
correct polarity.
Now flip the board over and install
the resistor and diode on the copper
side. Both of these components should
be insulated with heatshrink tubing to
prevent short circuits. However, only
the leads of the resistor should be insulated (not the body), otherwise heat
dissipation will be impaired.
Next, solder 10mm lengths of
0.71mm tinned copper wire to each
end of the board, forming axial “pigtails”. These wires will make the
March 2003 29
Parts List
High-Mount Stop Lamp (HMSL) Module
1 PC board, code 05103033, 11.45mm x 149.2mm
16 5mm 20,000mcd red LEDs (LEDs1-16) (Vishay TLCR5800)
2 1N4004 diodes (D1, D2)
4 150Ω 0.25W 1% resistors
200mm length of red light-duty hookup wire
150mm length of black light-duty hookup wire
Multidisc Module
1 PC board, code 05103036, 26.5mm diameter
12 5mm 20,000mcd red LEDs (LED1 - LED12) (Vishay TLCR5800)
1 1N4004 diode (D1)
3 180Ω 0.25W 1% resistors
10mm length of 0.71mm tinned copper wire
20mm length of 5mm-diameter heatshrink tubing
150mm length of red light-duty hookup wire
150mm length of black light-duty hookup wire
Wedge Lamp
1 PC board, code 05103031, 22mm diameter (Disc)
2 PC boards, code 05103032, 31.5mm x 16mm (Wedge)
8 5mm 20,000mcd red LEDs (LEDs1-8) (Vishay TLCR5800)
1 10mm 6,000mcd (min.) red LED (LED9)
1 1N4004 diode (D1)
1 470Ω 0.5W 1% resistor
2 180Ω 0.25W 1% resistors
60mm length of 0.71mm tinned copper wire
Cyanoacrylate-based adhesive (super glue)
Bayonet Lamp
1 assembled Multidisc module
1 PC board, code 05103037, 26.5mm diameter (Platform)
1 14.5mm O.D. copper water pipe joiner
1 12V 21W single filament automotive bayonet lamp
31mm Festoon Lamp
1 PC board, code 05103034, 8mm x 24mm
2 5mm 15,000mcd white LEDs (LED1, LED2)
1 1N4004 diode (D1)
1 220Ω 0.5W 1% resistor
1 31mm automotive festoon lamp
20mm length of 0.71mm tinned copper wire
35mm length of 5mm diameter heatshrink tubing
5-minute epoxy
41mm Festoon Lamp
1 PC board, code 05103035, 8mm x 33mm
3 5mm 15,000mcd white LEDs (LED1 - LED3)
1 1N4004 diode (D1)
1 82Ω 0.25W 1% resistor
1 41mm automotive festoon lamp
20mm length of 0.71mm tinned copper wire
35mm length of 5mm-diameter heatshrink tubing
5-minute epoxy
30 Silicon Chip
connections to the end caps.
With the board assembly complete,
the next step is to fit the end caps.
Begin by removing the glass cylinder
and filament from a standard festoon
lamp. Take care to remove all glass
fragments from inside the caps.
Desolder the holes in the cap peaks
and then slip them over the pigtails.
Push the PC board as far as it will go
into each cap. The assembled size
should be close to the 31mm (or 41mm)
mark. Snip the wires off so that they
only just protrude through the cap
peaks. Now solder in place and smooth
off with fine glass paper or similar.
Check that your completed lamp
works in-situ and, assuming all is well,
fill the end caps with 5-minute epoxy
to make the job permanent.
Automotive lamps vs. LEDs
The extremely narrow emission
angle of these ultra-bright LEDs (4°)
makes them well suited for use in
high-mount stop lights. However, in
the case of conventional tail, stop
and turn indicators, there are some
potential visibility issues.
When viewed on-axis, a tight grouping of these LEDs certainly appears to
equal (or even surpass) the intensity of
a 21W filament bulb. The bulb, however, emits light over a much larger
area, resulting in good visibility over
more than 180°.
Naturally, the reflector and diffuser
in light housings is designed to take
this into account, so if we were to
simply switch the standard bulb for
a bunch of LEDs, the resultant light
pattern would be entirely different.
Simply put, direct replacement of
filament lamps with LED lamps in
existing automotive tail, stop and
turn assemblies will not always be
possible. This applies particularly
to “wraparound” styles, which must
provide light to both the rear and side
of the vehicle. This problem is easily
solved by designing the assemblies
Where To Get The LEDs
Jaycar Electronics stock suitable
5mm red LEDs (20,000mcd), Cat.
ZD-1790. Oatley Electronics have
the 5mm white LEDs (15,000mcd)
and a good selection of other colours as well. Our 10mm red LEDs
came from Dick Smith Electronics,
Cat. Z-4067.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.11: here are the full-size etching patters for all the PC boards. Check your boards carefully for
defects before installing any parts.
specifically for LEDs, a task best left
to the experts.
Having said that, we believe that
our modules have a multitude of
highly practical uses. Here are just a
few examples:
Where to use LED lamps
Why not add a centre-mount stop
light to your trailer or van? The small
size and shape of the Multidisc module will allow it to fit neatly within
commonly available trailer stop light
assemblies. Do you own a motorcycle?
What about a truck? Install LED lamps
and get noticed!
A couple of these hooked up to a
simple flasher circuit and mounted under the boot lid or on a moveable panel
would make the ultimate emergency
beacon for late-night breakdowns.
They will flash for days without running your battery flat!
In addition, the Multidisc module
could be fitted with IR LEDs for use
with CCD cameras and night viewers.
The LED festoon lamps don’t put
out as much light as the originals but
they don’t get hot and they won’t run
your battery flat in a hurry. Fit a couple under the hood, in the boot, along
siliconchip.com.au
Although not readily apparent from the photo, the modified high-mount stop
lamp with the LEDs is brighter than the conventional lefthand & righthand stop
lamps. Its response time is quite a bit shorter as well (ie, it turns on much faster
when the brakes are applied).
the floor line or in the door panels. For
that high-tech look, try blue (or even
true green) LEDs instead of white.
If you don’t want to modify existing
light housings, then the LED wedge
or bayonet lamps are a good option.
They’re plug-in replacements for two
popular auto lamp styles. If your vehicle uses different lamp styles, then
you may be able to modify our designs
to come up with something suitable.
SC
Have fun!
March 2003 31
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