This is only a preview of the Performance Electronics for Cars issue of Silicon Chip. You can view 38 of the 160 pages in the full issue, including the advertisments. For full access, purchase the issue for $20.00. Items relevant to "Smart Mixture Meter":
Items relevant to "Duty Cycle Meter":
Items relevant to "High Temperature Digital Thermometer":
Items relevant to "Versatile Auto Timer":
Items relevant to "Simple Voltage Switch":
Items relevant to "Temperature Switch":
Items relevant to "Frequency Switch":
Items relevant to "Delta Throttle Timer":
Items relevant to "Digital Pulse Adjuster":
Items relevant to "LCD Hand Controller":
Items relevant to "Peak-Hold Injector Adaptor":
Items relevant to "Digital Fuel Adjuster":
Items relevant to "Speedo Corrector":
Items relevant to "Independent Electronic Boost Controller":
Items relevant to "Nitrous Fuel Controller":
Items relevant to "Intelligent Turbo Timer":
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Chapter 10
When used with the LED display, a heatsink needs to be
attached to the regulator. The thermometer is shown
here with a stainless steel probe thermocouple.
High Temperature
Digital Thermometer
It uses an LCD or LED readout, can measure to an incredible 1200°C
and can switch devices on or off at a set temperature.
Main Features
• Uses readily available K-type
thermocouples
• Measures to +1200°C (range
depends on probe)
• Adjustable trip point relay and
high-intensity LED
• Dual double-pole changeover 5A
relay contacts
• Switches on rising temperature
• Adjustable hysteresis
• High-intensity LED or low-current
LCD readout
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PERFORMANCE ELECTRONICS FOR CARS
L
OOK IN THE CABIN of any
high-performance machine running a piston engine and you’ll find
gauges for exhaust gas and cylinder
head temperatures. For example, all
piston engine aircraft use exhaust
gas temperature and cylinder head
temperature displays, while serious
race cars also log or display these
temperatures.
An overly high cylinder head temperature can indicate cooling problems, while too high an exhaust gas
temperature usually shows that the
engine is running lean – or is working so hard that it’s on the edge of
destruction! On a turbo car, exhaust
gas temperature (usually abbreviated
to EGT) is also a great indication of
how hot the turbine is running.
Why don’t more people use these
gauges? There are two problems. First,
exhaust gas runs at up to 900°C – hot
enough to make the exhaust manifold
glow bright red and hot enough to
melt most temperature sensors into
a pathetic congealed pool of plastic.
What’s needed is a high-temperature
thermocouple mounted in an inconel
or stainless steel sheath.
While these are commonly available
(being widely used in industrial furnace applications), another problem
then looms: the electrical output of a
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Parts List
Fig.1: this shows where each of the components is placed on the main PC board.
Use this diagram, the photos of the completed board and the parts list to help you
assemble it correctly. Link LK1 is normally in the “TEMP” position – see text.
1 PC board coded 05car041, 106
x 61mm
1 plastic case, 130 x 68 x 42mm –
optional, not in kit
1 LCD panel meter or LED panel
meter
1 K-type insulated thermometer
probe
5 PC-mount 2-way screw terminals
with 5mm pin spacing
1 12V PC-mount DPDT 5A relay
(Relay1)
1 3-way header with 2.54mm
spacing
1 jumper shunt with 2.54mm spacing
2 2-way pin header plugs
2 2-way pin header sockets
1 1MΩ multi-turn top adjust trimpot
(VR5)
4 10kΩ multi-turn top adjust trimpots
(VR1-VR4)
3 PC stakes
1 100mm length of 4-way rainbow
cable
1 50mm length of 0.8mm tinned
copper wire
Semiconductors
When constructed, your circuit board should look like this. When assembling the PC
board, make sure that you insert the polarised components the correct way around
(the diodes, ICs, LED, transistors, voltage regulator and electrolytic capacitors are
the easiest to make mistakes with).
1 LT1025CN thermocouple cold
junction compensator (IC1)
2 OP07CN op amps (IC2, IC3)
1 7805 3-terminal regulator (REG1)
1 BC337 NPN transistor (Q1)
2 LM336-2.5 reference (REF1,REF2)
1 5mm red LED (LED1)
1 16V 1W zener diode (ZD1)
1 10V 1W zener diode (ZD2)
2 1N4004 1A diodes (D1,D8)
6 1N4148 diodes (D2-D7)
Capacitors
thermocouple is tiny. Before you can
read the output on a meter, the signal
must be amplified and have other
compensations applied. And the result
of that complexity is cost; displays for
thermocouples are normally expensive
– $200 for a fairly cheap one!
But as you may have gathered from
this preamble, what we have here is
a much more cost-effective way of
displaying temperature. Depending
on the type of thermocouple housing
that you select, temperatures from
-500°C to an incredible 1200°C can be
shown on an LCD or LED display! And
it gets even better than that – you can
also set a temperature at which a relay
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switches over and a high-intensity
LED lights.
So not only can you read off the temperature, you can also turn another
device on or off when the temperature reaches a preset level.
For example, in a high-performance
turbo road or race car where you are
measuring exhaust gas temperature,
you can set the relay to click over
at 850°C to sound a loud warning
buzzer. Alternatively, at the other
end of the temperature range, you
can use a fast response (and tiny!)
bead thermocouple to monitor the
internal temperature of your sound
system’s amplifier. Not only can you
2 100µF 16V PC electrolytic
7 10µF 16V PC electrolytic
2 100nF MKT polyester (code 104
or 100n)
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
1 120kΩ
2 82kΩ
1 68kΩ
1 22kΩ
1 15kΩ
4 10kΩ
1 9.1kΩ
1 2.2kΩ
2 1.8kΩ
1 220Ω
1 100Ω 0.5W
1 10Ω
then read off the temperature on a fast
reacting digital display, you can also
automatically switch on fans when the
temperature rises excessively.
PERFORMANCE ELECTRONICS FOR CARS
59
How It Works
K-type thermocouples comprise two
dissimilar metal wires (Chromel and
Alumel) which are alloys and are joined
at the measuring end of the probe. The
other end of the wire pair is normally
connected to a 2-pin plug. The voltage
at the plug provides a nominal 40.6µV
(microvolts) per °C output, which is the
difference between the probe end and
the plug end of the wire thermocouple.
If the plug end is at 0°C, we can directly
read off the temperature measured by
the probe since we know that the output
will be 40.6µV per °C.
In practice, it is impractical to
keep the plug end at 0°C and so we
simply compensate for the plug end
temperature instead. In our circuit, we
use a Linear Technology LT1025 thermocouple cold junction compensator
(IC1), which provides a pre-calibrated
40.6µV per °C output to offset the
thermocouple voltage.
Op amp IC2 amplifies the thermocouple output by a factor of 2.4652,
converting the 40.6µV per °C output to
0.1mV per °C. This provides the meter
with the required voltage so that the
display reads directly in °C. The OP07
op amp is a very low drift type with
high gain and high input impedance,
which ensures that the measurement
remains stable with changes in ambient
temperature.
IC2 is powered from a 10V supply
(pin 7) and its pin 4 is connected to
0V. However, the op amp’s output is
not able to swing down to the 0V rail
but only to about +2V. Consequently,
we have biased the thermocouple to a
+2.49V reference which means that the
op amp output will be at around +2.5V,
allowing it to operate correctly since its
output is now well above the 0V rail.
The problem with this is that the
meter reading also needs to be compensated for the output voltage offset.
This is simply achieved by connecting
the INLO input of the meter to the same
+2.49V reference. The meter then
reads the difference between INLO
and the output of IC2, connected to
the INHI input.
Trimpot VR3 provides offset adjustment for IC2, so that the meter can
precisely read 0V at 0°C. Without this
adjustment the meter may have an error
of up to ±2°C.
Note that the meter can read
voltages below the +2.49V reference
which means that the meter can theoretically show negative temperatures.
The 68kΩ resistor connecting pin 3
of IC1 to ground effectively gives the
output a means to go below +2.49V
and provides the facility to continue
compensation below 0°C.
IC3 is another OP07 op amp, this
time connected as a comparator to
compare the output of IC2 with a reference voltage from VR4. Its output is low
Here’s another view of the completed PC
board. You can leave the relay out if you
don’t need to switch other equipment.
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PERFORMANCE ELECTRONICS FOR CARS
when its pin 3 is below pin 2.
When IC2’s output goes above the
threshold set by VR4, the output (pin 6)
of IC3 goes high. This drives transistor
Q1 and the relay. LED1 also lights to
indicate that the temperature threshold
has been exceeded. The diode across
the relay coil is there to quench the
reverse voltage that is generated by the
collapsing magnetic field of the relay
coil when it is switched off.
To prevent the relay from erratically
opening and closing at or around the
threshold temperature, IC3 has positive
feedback from its output to the noninverting input, pin 3, via two 10kΩ
resistors, trimpot VR5 and diode D6.
When IC3’s output goes high, closing
the relay, this hysteresis has the effect
of pulling the pin 3 voltage higher than
IC2’s output level. This means that the
temperature must drop by a reasonable
amount before pin 6 of IC3 goes low
and the relay opens again.
Diode D7 clamps the top of VR5 to
+5.6V. This ensures that the hysteresis
does not alter with changes in the 12V
supply.
Voltage Reference
Two series-connected LM336-2.5
references (REF1 & REF2) are used to
provide a 4.98V reference. Temperature compensation is included, comprising the series diodes and trimpots
VR1 & VR2. Each sensor is stable with
temperature changes when its trimpot
is adjusted for 2.49V.
The 4.98V reference is critical to
the thermometer’s performance and it
must remain stable over temperature
so that the reading does not drift. The
4.98V reference provides IC3’s temperature trip point (via trimpot VR4).
The 4.98V supply is derived from a
10V rail which is itself provided from
10V zener diode ZD2.
Power for the circuit is obtained from
the car’s battery and diode D1 gives
reverse connection protection. The 10Ω
resistor, 100µF capacitor and zener
diode ZD1 provide transient protection
at the input of 3-terminal regulator REG1
which provides a +5V rail to power the
LCD or LED display module. The op
amps, relay and LED1 are driven by the
+11.4V (nominal) rail.
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PERFORMANCE ELECTRONICS FOR CARS
61
Fig.2: the circuit uses op amp IC2 to amplify the thermocouple output to provide a 0.1mV per °C output at pin 6. This output if then fed to either
an LCD module or to a LED module to display the result. IC3 is wired as a comparator; its output goes high when IC2’s output exceeds a threshold
voltage set by VR4 and this then turns on transistor Q1 and Relay1 to switch another piece of equipment (ie, at a preset temperature). IC1 is the
thermocouple cold junction compensator (see text).
Use It To . . .
• Display any car temperatures:
oil, exhaust gas, coolant, intake
air, brakes, etc.
• Trigger alarms, warning lights,
fans, etc at a selectable temperature.
If you wish, even real-time brake
temperatures can be monitored with
this display!
Construction
Fig.3: here is a typical connection set-up, with the Digital Thermometer shown
measuring exhaust gas temperatures (EGT) via a high-temperature thermocouple.
This temperature is displayed in real-time on the LED display. In addition, a
warning alarm is wired to the relay so that if the EGT exceeds 800°C, the driver is
alerted by the buzzer (as well as by LED1). To power the buzzer, one of the relay’s
normally open (NO) connections is made to an ignition-switched +12V rail, while
the adjacent Common terminal is connected to the buzzer itself. The other side of
the buzzer is earthed.
This engine dyno test shows just how hot the exhaust system gets on an engine working
under sustained full load. Measuring the exhaust gas temperature requires a top quality
thermocouple and a dedicated thermocouple display, like the one described here.
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PERFORMANCE ELECTRONICS FOR CARS
The design is easy to build and fits
on a compact PC board – see Fig.1.
Either an LCD or LED display can
be used – each has advantages and
disadvantages, depending on the
situation in which you are going to
use the meter.
The advantage of the LED display is
that it can be readily seen at night – in
fact, it’s a very bright display that will
also be visible in nearly all daytime
conditions except direct sunlight.
However, when the LED display
is used, the 5V regulator will need
to be fitted with a heatsink and this
can be provided in a number of ways.
You can use a sheet of aluminium
at least 100 x 60 x 2mm in size or a
heatsink similar to the one shown in
the photos (this heatsink was salvaged
from an old car radio).
Alternatively, you can use the car’s
body as a heatsink and bolt the regulator directly to the metalwork.
The alternative LCD (liquid crystal
display) module can be seen even in
direct sunlight but will need to be
externally lit at night (eg, by white
LEDs). It draws less current than the
LED display and so a heatsink is not
required for the regulator if you use
this option.
The decision about which type of
display to use can be made after the
design is built; apart from the presence or absence of the heatsink, it is
identical in either configuration.
When assembling the PC board,
make sure that you insert the polarised components the correct way
around. These parts include the diodes, ICs, LED, transistors, voltage
regulator and electrolytic capacitors.
The three PC stakes are installed at
TP1, TP2 and TP GND.
Most thermocouples are provided
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The High Temperature Digital Thermometer can
use any K-type thermocouple. Here it is shown
with a low-temperature bead type thermocouple
and LCD readout.
with a plug already installed on the
lead. This will need to be removed so
that the wires can be inserted into the
screw terminal strip on the PC board.
(Note: if the reading goes down when it
should go up and up when it should go
down, reverse the thermocouple lead
connections).
Calibration
The Digital Thermometer needs to
be calibrated when construction is
complete. This is easy to do, needing
only a multimeter and, as an option,
a glass of water mixed with ice:
(1). Connect a wire between TP2
and the thermocouple + input. With
the meter display module installed,
RESISTOR COLOUR CODES
Value
4-Band Code (1%)
5-Band Code (1%)
120kΩ
82kΩ
68kΩ
22kΩ
15kΩ
10kΩ
9.1kΩ
2.2kΩ
1.8kΩ
220Ω
100Ω
10Ω
brown red yellow brown
grey red orange brown
blue grey orange brown
red red orange brown
brown green orange brown
brown black orange brown
white brown red brown
red red red brown
brown grey red brown
red red brown brown
brown black brown brown
brown black black brown
brown red black orange brown
grey red black red brown
blue grey black red brown
red red black red brown
brown green black red brown
brown black black red brown
white brown black brown brown
red red black brown brown
brown grey black brown brown
red red black black brown
brown black black black brown
brown black black gold brown
Fig.4: these two diagrams show the wiring to the LCD module (left) and the LED display module (right). Your choice of
module will depend on the conditions under which the Digital Thermometer is to be used (see text).
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PERFORMANCE ELECTRONICS FOR CARS
63
The panel meter is connected to the PC board by flying leads.
These can be made long enough so that the display can be
remote mounted; eg, on the dashboard, with the PC board in
a box tucked away elsewhere.
adjust trimpot VR3 for reading of 0
on the meter.
(2). Use a multimeter to measure between TP1 and TP2. Adjust trimpot
VR1 for 2.49V
(3). Use a multimeter to measure
between TP2 and TP GND. Adjust
VR2 for 2.49V
(4). Further refinement: adjust VR3
for a reading of 0 when the thermocouple is placed in and stirred in an
ice and fresh water solution. Alternatively, if you live near sea level, place
the thermocouple in boiling water and
adjust VR3 for a reading of 100.
Note that when power is first applied, it will take about 10 seconds for
the display to settle.
Trip Point & Hysteresis
Thermocouples are available with different lead lengths and in different housings.
Industrial suppliers are the best bet for really high temperature designs. This thermocouple (complete with extension lead) is suitable for measuring up to about 250°C. For
higher temperatures, you’ll need a thermocouple with a stainless steel braided lead. Note:
the thermocouple probe must be insulated to prevents shorts to the vehicle’s chassis.
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PERFORMANCE ELECTRONICS FOR CARS
When link LK1 is placed in the
“SET” position, the temperature at
which the relay trips can be read
off the display. To set this trip point,
move the link to this position and
adjust trimpot VR4 until the desired
trip temperature is shown. Turning
this pot clockwise will increase the
temperature at which the relay trips.
The hysteresis (the difference between the switch-on and switch-off
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The heatsink attached to the regulator was salvaged from an old car radio. Any heatsink
of around this size is suitable for when the LED meter is being used.
temperatures) is set by trimpot VR5.
Start off with this trimpot fully clockwise; this gives minimum hysteresis.
If you find that the relay chatters, or
you’d like the relay to stay on longer
after the temperature starts to fall,
turn this trimpot anti-clockwise.
Fitting
In most applications, the LED or
LCD will be mounted on the dashboard, connected to the PC board by
flying leads. This allows the PC board
to be mounted where there is plenty
of space and access is easy for when
the trip point or hysteresis needs to be
changed. Note that the high-intensity
LED indicator can also be mounted
on the dash – make sure that you get
the polarity of the LED wiring correct
when extending the leads.
Thermocouples are available in a
wide variety of configurations and
any insulated K-type thermocouple (ie,
the probe is insulated from the outer
sheath) will work with this unit.
Bare bead-type thermocouples react
to temperature changes very quickly
but are relatively fragile and their
cable insulation is not usually rated
for very high temperatures. They
can be used for monitoring ambient,
heatsink and intercooler core temperatures, provided the probe doesn’t touch
the chassis (or connect to the chassis
via other parts).
Thermocouples mounted in stainless steel probes are also available.
Real time brake temperatures can be
monitored using a thermocouple. On this
brake pad research vehicle, the yellow
lead running to the thermocouple mounted
behind the brake pad can be clearly seen.
These are suitable for higher temperatures (eg, engine and transmission oil)
but again are often let down by their
insulation.
For really high temperatures (eg,
exhaust gas and brake temperatures),
you need a specific high-temperature
thermocouple. These are normally
sold in a stainless steel or inconel
sheath, complete with special hightemperature braided cable.
Note that you cannot extend the
length of a thermocouple lead without
using the correct metals in the cable.
If a long reach is required, you will
need to buy a thermocouple complete
with a long lead. Industrial controls
often use K-type thermocouples and
companies specialising in this area
are the best sources for good quality,
high-temperature thermocouples.
Ambient Temperature
This Toyota 1G-GTE turbocharged engine is fitted with several thermocouples – one
on each exhaust and another mounted after the turbo. Usually, a single thermocouple
mounted either before or after the turbo is sufficient to indicate what’s going on.
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Want to measure just the ambient
temperature? Its easy to do.
If the thermocouple is replaced
with a copper wire link, the meter
will show the ambient temperature
reading as measured by IC1, the
thermocouple ice-point compensation chip.
PERFORMANCE ELECTRONICS FOR CARS
65
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