This is only a preview of the Performance Electronics for Cars issue of Silicon Chip. You can view 38 of the 160 pages in the full issue, including the advertisments. For full access, purchase the issue for $20.00. Items relevant to "Smart Mixture Meter":
Items relevant to "Duty Cycle Meter":
Items relevant to "High Temperature Digital Thermometer":
Items relevant to "Versatile Auto Timer":
Items relevant to "Simple Voltage Switch":
Items relevant to "Temperature Switch":
Items relevant to "Frequency Switch":
Items relevant to "Delta Throttle Timer":
Items relevant to "Digital Pulse Adjuster":
Items relevant to "LCD Hand Controller":
Items relevant to "Peak-Hold Injector Adaptor":
Items relevant to "Digital Fuel Adjuster":
Items relevant to "Speedo Corrector":
Items relevant to "Independent Electronic Boost Controller":
Items relevant to "Nitrous Fuel Controller":
Items relevant to "Intelligent Turbo Timer":
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Chapter 23
Intelligent Turbo Timer
This turbo timer sets the engine idle-down time to
match how hard you have been driving!
T
he trouble with normal turbo
timers is that they usually have a
fixed idle-down time. It doesn’t matter
if you have been driving like a maniac
or just trundling around – either way,
the engine will idle for a preset period
(eg, two or three minutes) after you’ve
come to a halt. However, since a turbo
really only needs a cool-down period
after it has been working hard, a
fixed turbo idle-down period is often
unnecessary.
This Intelligent Turbo Timer doesn’t
have that problem. Instead, it actually monitors how hard the car has
been driven and then sets the idling
time to match. Wiring is easy and the
timer can be configured to suit your
particular application.
What It Does
The Intelligent Turbo Timer uses
a heavy-duty relay that has its con152
PERFORMANCE ELECTRONICS FOR CARS
tacts wired in parallel with the ignition switch. If an idle-down time is
required, this relay quickly closes
when the ignition key is turned to
the “off” position, maintaining power
to the ignition circuit and so keeping
the engine running. When the automatically selected idle-down period
has elapsed, the relay opens, turning
off the engine.
LED1 is illuminated when the
engine is running in its idle-down
configuration. If desired, this LED
can be mounted on the dash or it can
be left out. A manual “reset” switch
can be fitted which allows the engine
idle-down period to be cancelled when
it is pressed. This can also be mounted
on the dash.
The length of time that the engine
idles after the ignition key has been
turned off depends on two factors: (1)
the maximum idle-down period that
Main Features
• Idle period varies according to
driver behaviour
• Adjustable maximum idle period
• Cancel (reset) switch
• LED timing indicator
• Engine load sensor input
• High input impedance for
sensor load input
• Adjustable threshold voltage for
load input signal
• Up or down “sense” selection
for load input signal
• LED over-threshold indicator
• Diagnostic timer voltage output
• Optional second relay for
bypassing alarms
has been selected on a multi-position
switch; and (2) the way that the car
has been driven.
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Fig.1: use this diagram and the photos of the completed project when assembling the PC board. Take particular care with the
components that are polarised – these include the transistors, ICs, diodes, zener diodes, LEDs, electrolytic capacitors, REG1 and
the BCD switch. This diagram also shows the external connections that can be made (see text for details). Note that link LK1 is
not required in most applications.
Switch S1 is used to select the
maximum idle-down period, which
can range from 15 seconds to 15 minutes, in 16 steps (0 to 9, A to F). For
example, if you want the car to have an
idle-down period that is never longer
than five minutes, S1 would be set to
position 9. If you want nine minutes,
set the switch to position C. Table 1
shows the full range of settings.
Load Sensor Input
Just how hard the car is being
driven is monitored by a load sensor
input from the engine. Normally, this
will be the air-flow meter output signal
voltage but in cars with frequencyoutput air-flow meters, this signal
can be taken from the oxygen sensor,
MAP sensor or throttle position sensor.
In fact, any voltage that varies with
engine load within a 0-12V range can
be used on this input.
A multi-turn trimpot (VR1) is provided to adjust the sensitivity so that
the Intelligent Turbo Timer can work
with such a wide range of input load
voltages. To set this sensitivity level,
you need to watch LED2 while the car
is being driven. VR1 is then adjusted
so that LED2 lights only when the car
is being driven hard.
Normally, this point is set so that
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Make sure that all polarised components are
correctly orientated when assembling the PC
board. All external wiring connections are made
via screw terminal blocks.
the LED lights only when the car is
on boost (more on set-up below).
The engine load at which this LED
lights is called the “threshold”. The
Intelligent Turbo Timer monitors
how long the engine load exceeds this
threshold over a 7-minute period. This
information is constantly updated so
that when the ignition is switched
off, the Intelligent Turbo Timer has a
PERFORMANCE ELECTRONICS FOR CARS
153
How It Works
The basic component in the circuit is
the microcontroller (IC1). This monitors
the engine sensor signal via op amp
IC2a and determines the timer period
from this. IC1 also monitors the ignition
voltage at its RA0 input and checks
when the ignition is switched off.
The idle-down time is set by switching on Relay1 to reconnect the ignition
supply. A reset switch connected to
the RB1 (pin 7) input can be used to
cancel the idle-down period and switch
off the engine.
The ignition voltage is monitored
via the normally-closed contacts (30
& 87a) which connect to the ignition
circuit in the car. When the ignition is
switched off, the voltage at the 87a
contact is pulled low via a 1kΩ resistor. This voltage is detected at the
RA0 input of IC1 (pin 17) and so IC1
switches on the relay which closes the
normally-open contacts (30 & 87) and
opens the 87a contact. This keeps the
RA0 input low.
By the way, these rather odd contact numbers are stamped into the
standard automotive relay specified
for this project.
The voltage to the RA0 input is
filtered using a 100kΩ resistor and
100nF capacitor, to prevent short
voltage spikes from triggering IC1. The
39kΩ resistor to ground attenuates
the voltage and is included so that the
ignition voltage required to trigger the
RA0 input is around 2V. If the resistor
was not included, the ignition voltage
would need to fall to below 0.6V before
triggering IC1. The higher voltage
ensures more reliable detection of the
ignition switch off.
IC1 is able to control the ignition by
bringing its RA1 output high to switch
on transistors Q1 and Q2. Transistor
Q1 drives Relay1 which closes the
above-mentioned normally-open contacts (terminals 30 and 87). After the
timing period, the RA1 output goes low
and switches off the relay. This opens
the 87 contact on the relay and the
engine switches off. The diode across
the relay coil is there to quench the
reverse voltage that occurs when the
relay’s coil current is switched off.
Transistor Q2 and Relay2 (if used)
switches on and off at the same time as
154
PERFORMANCE ELECTRONICS FOR CARS
Relay1. LED1 lights when this transistor
is on, indicating that the Turbo Timer
is extending the engine running time.
LED1 goes off after the timing period.
This extra relay can be connected if required, to bypass any ignition disabling
circuitry that may be in place when the
ignition key is removed. If an alarm is
fitted, the ignition input can be taken
from the 87a contact of Relay1.
The maximum timing period is set
using rotary switch S1. This has 16
positions labelled from 0 through to 9
then A, B, C, D, E & F. The selection
on this switch is recorded by IC1 whenever power is applied. If you change
the switch setting, the timing period
will only change after power has been
switched off and turned on again.
As mentioned above, op amp IC2a
monitors the engine sensor signal. It
has a high input impedance, due to the
1MΩ series resistor and 2.2MΩ attenuator. This resistor divider attenuates
the signal level to 0.69 of the applied
input and will reduce a 12V signal to
8.28V. The 100nF capacitor filters the
signal, preventing transient voltages
being detected by IC2a which is connected as a comparator (ie, with no
negative feedback).
Trimpot VR1 has its wiper connected
to pin 2 of IC2a. It is supplied with
10V due to zener diode ZD2, while the
other side of the trimpot is connected
to ground (0V). As a result, the wiper
voltage can be adjusted between +10V
and 0V. When the voltage at pin 3 of
IC2a is above the threshold set by VR1,
the output at pin 1 switches to +12V.
This is monitored by IC1’s RA2 input
via a 3.3kΩ limiting resistor. Internal
clamping diodes at RA2 then limit the
voltage on pin 1 of IC1 to +5.6V.
Link LK1 at pin 6 of IC1 sets the
comparator sense. It’s installed only
if the engine sensor’s output voltage
decreases with rising load. LED2 is
the comparator indicator – it lights
when the threshold has been reached
and the idle-down period increases
accordingly.
Diagnostics
A diagnostic output is available (from
RA3) which indicates the relative idledown period that is current at the time.
It provides a voltage ranging from 0V
up to almost 5V. This voltage increases
as the percentage of over-threshold
increases over the 7-minute period.
If there is an over-threshold for at
least 25% of the seven minutes, the
voltage will be almost 5V at the timing
voltage output. This means that if the
ignition were switched off at this time,
the maximum idle time as set by S1 will
occur. If the voltage is 2.5V, then the
idle time will be half of the maximum
time set by S1. And if the voltage is 0V,
then there will be no idle time.
The diagnostic output voltage is produced using a pulse width modulated
(PWM) signal from the RA3 output of
IC1. If RA3 is set at 0V all the time,
then the voltage will be 0V. If RA3 is at
0V for some of the time and switches
to 5V for the rest of the time, then the
average voltage will depend on the ratio
of how long RA3 is at 0V and how long
it is at 5V. This voltage is filtered using
a 22kΩ resistor and 100µF capacitor.
Power for the circuit comes from the
switched side of the ignition switch and
is applied only when the ignition is on
or while Relay1 is closed (ie, for the
idle-down period). Diode D1 provides
reverse polarity protection, while a 10Ω
resistor and zener diode ZD1 are used
to clamp transient voltages. The 470µF
capacitor also filters the voltage.
REG1 regulates the voltage down to
5V and the 10µF capacitor at REG1’s
output decouples the supply. IC3 is a 5V
supply supervisor which only switches
high when the supply reaches 4.75V.
This ensures that IC1 is reset correctly
at power up.
Finally, the circuit uses a 10MHz crystal to set the operating rate of IC1 and
to provide a reference for the 7-minute
timer and the idle-down period.
Fig.2: the circuit diagram for the
Intelligent Turbo Timer. Op amp IC2a
monitors the engine sensor input signal
and its output is fed to pin 1 (RA2) of
microcontroller IC1. IC1 determines the
cool-down period and controls the car’s
ignition circuit via transistor Q1 and
Relay1. Switch S1 sets the maximum
cool-down period, while Relay 2 is used
to bypass an engine immobiliser (if
fitted) during the cool-down period.
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PERFORMANCE ELECTRONICS FOR CARS
155
RESISTOR COLOUR CODES
Parts List
1 PC board coded 05car031, 123
x 60mm
1 SPDT 12V horn relay, Jaycar Cat.
SY-4070
1 10MHz parallel resonant crystal
(X1)
1 16-position BCD PC-mount rotary
switch (S1)
1 momentary closed pushbutton
switch (reset switch – S2)
5 2-way PC-mount screw terminals
with 2.54mm pin spacing
1 18-pin DIP socket for IC1
1 1MΩ top-adjust multi-turn trimpot
(VR1)
1 2-way pin header
1 jumper plug for 2-way header
2 6.3mm insulated female spade
connectors
2 6.3mm male PC-mount spade
connectors
1 50mm length of 0.7mm tinned
copper wire
1 2m length red automotive wire
1 2m length yellow automotive wire
1 2m length black automotive wire
Semiconductors
1 PIC16F84/20P microcontroller
programmed with turbotmr.hex
(IC1)
1 LM358 dual op amp (IC2)
1 MC34064 5V supervisor (IC3)
1 7805 5V 1A 3-terminal regulator
(REG1)
2 BC337 NPN transistors
(Q1,Q2)
2 3mm red LEDs (LED1,LED2)
1 16V 1W zener diode (ZD1)
1 10V 1W zener diode (ZD2)
3 1N4004 1A diodes (D1-D3)
Capacitors
1 470µF 16V PC electrolytic
2 100µF16V PC electrolytic
2 10µF 16V PC electrolytic
4 100nF MKT polyester (code 104
or 100n)
2 22pF ceramic (code 22 or 22p)
Resistors (0.25W 1%)
1 2.2MΩ
1 1MΩ
1 100kΩ
1 39kΩ
1 22kΩ
1 10kΩ
1 3.3kΩ
156
1 1.8kΩ
2 1kΩ
1 1kΩ 0.5W
1 680Ω
1 150Ω
1 10Ω
PERFORMANCE ELECTRONICS FOR CARS
Value
4-Band Code (1%)
5-Band Code (1%)
2.2MΩ
1MΩ
100kΩ
39kΩ
22kΩ
10kΩ
3.3kΩ
1.8kΩ
1kΩ
680Ω
150Ω
10Ω
red red green brown
brown black green brown
brown black yellow brown
orange white orange brown
red red orange brown
brown black orange brown
orange orange red brown
brown grey red brown
brown black red brown
blue grey brown brown
brown green brown brown
brown black black brown
red red black yellow brown
brown black black yellow brown
brown black black orange brown
orange white black red brown
red red black red brown
brown black black red brown
orange orange black brown brown
brown grey black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
blue grey black black brown
brown green black black brown
brown black black gold brown
record of how hard the car was being
driven for the last seven minutes.
The idle timing period will be at its
maximum if the engine sensor voltage
was over the threshold setting for at
least 25% of the seven minutes. If the
over-threshold period is less than 25%
of the seven minutes, the idle period
will be reduced accordingly.
However, the Intelligent Turbo Timer is even trickier than this. The
actual idle-down period reflects not
only what proportion of time over the
last seven minutes the threshold was
exceeded but also when in that seven
minutes the hard driving occurred.
If the threshold was exceeded just
before switch-off, the idle period will
be longer than if the over-threshold
occurred earlier; eg, five or six minutes
before switch-off.
Specifically, the bias is such that if
an over-threshold occurs within the
final 1.75-minutes of the 7-minute
period, the effect on the idle-down
time is double the effect of an overthreshold occurring before this – ie,
during the first 5.25 minutes of the
7-minute period prior to the ignition
being switched off. Pretty tricky, eh?
But you don’t need to worry about
that – rest assured that all of the time
you’re driving, the “mind” of the Intelligent Turbo Timer is busy thinking
and watching!
Fitting
Only four wiring connections are
needed to get the Intelligent Turbo
Timer up and running. These are chassis ground, engine load sensor input,
battery side of the ignition switch and
ignition side of the ignition switch.
Fig.1 shows these and the other connections.
The chassis ground is easy – just
connect the chassis ground connection
on the Intelligent Turbo Timer to a
good earth point on the car’s chassis.
The load sensor input of the Intelligent Turbo Timer connects to the
air-flow meter signal output (or MAP
sensor, oxygen sensor or throttle
position sensor). This sensor output
can be found by using a multimeter
to back-probe the air-flow meter (or
MAP sensor, etc) until a wire is found
that has a voltage on it that rises with
engine load. (See the “Falling Voltage
with Increasing Load?” panel, if you
want to use a sensor that works the
other way around.)
Normally, just blipping the throttle
is sufficient to vary the engine load
Specifications
Maximum idle periods .............................15s, 30s, 1m, 1.5m, 2m, 2.5m, 3m,
3.5m, 4m, 5m, 6m, 7m, 9m, 11m, 13m, 15m
Engine input signal range ............................................................. from 0-12V
Threshold voltage .........................................................adjustable from 0-12V
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The Intelligent Turbo Timer is easy to build and easy to wire into the car. On the right
is the Reset pushbutton that can be used to stop the engine during its idle-down time.
However, because the Intelligent Turbo Timer always sets the idle-down period to match
how you’ve been driving, it’s something you’ll rarely need to touch.
enough to make identifying this wire
easy. The wire doesn’t need to be cut
– the Intelligent Turbo Timer engine
load sensor wire just “T’s” into it. This
connection can be made either at the
sensor or at the ECU. Note that the
sensor and ECU are unaffected by this
connection.
The two other connections can be
made next. These must be made with
heavy-duty wire as they carry a substantial amount of current. It is easier
to find the right wires if you can access
the back of the ignition switch. Using
the multimeter, locate a wire going to
the ignition switch that always has
battery voltage on it. Then turn the
WARNING!!!
Be sure to use the Turbo Timer
only when your car is parked in
the open. The reason for this is
fairly obvious – your car’s engine
exhausts carbon monoxide (CO)
fumes while it is running and
carbon monoxide gas is colourless, odourless and extremely
poisonous.
Never allow the engine to run on
if the car is parked in a confined
space; eg, a garage. If you do need
to allow the turbo to cool, park the
car outside instead until the engine
cuts out and park the car in the
garage later on.
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ignition key to the “ignition” position
and find another wire that has battery
voltage on it when the key is in this
position but zero volts (0V) on it when
the key is turned off. Both these wires
are likely to be thick, making their
identification easier.
Using a heavy-duty soldering iron or
high-current crimps, connect a heavyduty wire to each of these ignition
switch wires and then insulate these
connections. Remember that battery
voltage is always present on one of
these cables – you should disconnect
the battery when doing this work (and
the rest of the wiring) because if this
wire touches chassis ground, you could
blow a major fuse or fusible link.
For the same reason, never operate
the Intelligent Turbo Timer in “bare
board” form as these connections could
easily short out to a metal component
in the cabin. Instead, always
install it in its box, leaving the
lid off when doing the set-up.
When you have made the connections to either side of the ignition
switch, you can check that you have
got it right by connecting these wires
together when the engine is running.
Then, when you turn off the ignition
switch, the engine should keep running and then stop when you disconnect the wires.
The “Reset” pushbutton can be
mounted where it can be conveniently
reached. It is wired to the terminal
strip, as shown in Fig.1. LED1 can
also be mounted on the dash – it is lit
when the car is in its idle-down period.
Setting-Up
Setting-up the Intelligent Turbo
Timer is easy but you should probably
leave the module accessible for a few
days afterwards so that you can do
some fine-tuning if necessary.
The first step is to set switch S1
Falling Voltage With Increasing Load?
In most applications, where increasing engine load is associated with an
increasing sensor voltage, link LK1 is not installed on the PC board. However,
link LK1 can be installed if the voltage sensing direction needs to be reversed.
This may be the case if you are using an engine sensor that decreases in output
voltage with rising load.
Another use might be if you have an old car that does not have engine management. In this case, the input could be connected to the coolant temperature
sender unit so that the Turbo Timer will only operate when the sender reaches
a certain temperature. Generally, these senders produce an output voltage that
decreases with rising temperature.
PERFORMANCE ELECTRONICS FOR CARS
157
Working With A Burglar Alarm
switch off the ignition. LED1 should
light and the engine should keep
running for a period before switching
itself off. If the engine keeps running
longer than you’d like, increase the
threshold setting of the pot a little.
If the idle-down period is too short,
decrease the threshold setting.
You can also alter the idle-down period by changing the setting of S1 but
start off by adjusting the trimpot. Try
driving the car hard and then more
gently for the last few minutes before
switch-off – the idle-down time should
then be shorter. Driven gently, there
should be no idle-down time at all.
Conclusion
What if you have an alarm fitted? This has been taken into account in the design
of the Intelligent Turbo Timer. A second relay – Relay2 – can be used to bypass
the alarm system’s engine immobiliser. This relay’s coil connects to the bottom
two terminals on the PC board – see Fig.1.
If the alarm system disables the ignition by shorting it out, connect the relay
between the alarm immobiliser output and the ignition system using the 30 and
87a contacts as shown at (a). Alternatively, if the alarm system open circuits the
ignition, use the 30 and 87 contacts to reconnect the ignition as shown at (b).
Finally, if the alarm requires an ignition signal, use the “alarm ignition input”
connection on the Turbo Timer.
to the maximum idle-down time that
you think will ever be needed. Table1
shows the relationship between switch
position and the maximum timing. In
normal road cars, this will usually be
Table 1
158
S1 Setting
Max. Idle Period
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
A
B
C
D
E
F
15s
30s
1m
1.5m
2m
2.5m
3m
3.5m
4m
5m
6m
7m
9m
11m
13m
15m
PERFORMANCE ELECTRONICS FOR CARS
about 5-7 minutes but if you
race your car on a track,
up to 15 minutes may be
required.
LK1
The next step is to
drive the car while an
assistant monitors the
status of LED2. Trimpot
VR1 should be turned
VR1
until the LED lights only
when the car starts being
driven hard. This could be
as the car comes onto boost, or
if monitoring the oxygen sensor
output, when the engine management system goes out of closed loop
(as indicated by a mixture meter, for
example)
At this stage, don’t spend too long
setting this control – you may well
want to change it if the idle-down
times prove to be shorter or longer
than you prefer. By the way, LED2
will not light until a few seconds after
the ignition is switched on.
Test driving is next – drive the
car hard, stop and then immediately
At a cost much lower than commercial turbo timers (let alone intelligent
turbo timers!), this project allows you
to protect your turbo without having to
spend time waiting around while the
car idles unnecessarily. It’s also ideal
if your turbo car is driven by someone
less mechanically sympathetic than
you are – no longer will you need to
go on and on about “turbo cool-down
periods” to someone who couldn’t care
less about them!
S1
LED2
LED1
This photo shows from bottom left then
anticlockwise: trimpot VR1, which allows
adjustment of the engine load at which the
Turbo Timer thinks you’re driving hard;
LED1, which lights when the turbo timer
is in its idle-down period; LED2, which
lights when the engine load threshold is
exceeded; and multi-position switch S1,
which sets the maximum idle-on time. Just
below IC1 is link LK1 which sets whether
the timer senses a high or low voltage on
its input as a high engine load.
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