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SILICON
Australia’s
World-Class
Electronics Magazine!
UNWIRED:
CHIP
WIRELESS
BROADBAND
HAS ARRIVED!
NOVEMBER 2004
ISSN 1030-2662
11
9 771030 266001
7
$ 90* NZ $ 8 75
INC GST
INC GST
PRINT POST APPROVED
-PP255003/01272
3-STAGE AUTOMATIC BATTERY CHARGER
DRIVEWAY SENTRY - Magnetic field sensor
siliconchip.com.au
November
2004 1
USB-UP - USB-controlled 240V power
switch
42V ELECTRICS - the future of vehicle power
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
Contents
Vol.17, No.11; November 2004
www.siliconchip.com.au
FEATURES
8 Look Mum: No Wires
Want broadband Internet access without waiting for an ADSL or cable
connection? “Unwired” does it without fuss – by Ross Tester
20 The New Era In Car Electrical Systems
The first cars using 42V batteries are now being released. Find out what’s
behind the move to higher voltages – by Julian Edgar
94 Emergency Power When All Else Fails
Is this one of Stan’s wind-ups? You’d better believe it . . . just wind the handle
for some emergency battery charging – by Stan Swan
Look Mum; No Wires For HassleFree Broadband – Page 8.
PROJECTS TO BUILD
28 USB-Controlled Power Switch
Build this and automatically power up all your PC’s peripherals when you start
the computer. It works via the PC’s USB port – by Jim Rowe
34 A Charger For Deep-Cycle 12V Batteries, Pt.1
That’s not a charger . . . this is a charger! If you want to charge deep-cycle 12V
batteries correctly, this 16.6A unit is the way to go – by John Clarke
66 The Driveway Sentry
Detect vehicles coming down your driveway and automatically open gates or
sound an alarm with this reliable unit. It works just like the detectors used for
traffic-lights – by Jim Rowe
USB-Controlled Power Switch –
Page 28.
74 SMS Controller, Pt.2
Second article tells you how to complete the circuit checks and describes
how the unit is used – by Peter Smith
90 Picaxe Infrared Remote Control
Here’s how to add infrared remote control to all your PICAXE-08M projects
(including Rudolph) – by Clive Seager
SPECIAL COLUMNS
80 Circuit Notebook
(1) Low-Coolant Alarm For Falcon EF & EL Models; (2) One-Second Darkroom
Ticker; (3) Simpler PC Power-Up; (4) Micro Timer With LED Readout; (5) Water
Pump Monitor; (6) Reducing The Effective Mains Voltage
44 Serviceman’s Log
It’s time I bought a new TV set – by the TV Serviceman
96 Vintage Radio
12V 16.6A Charger For Deep-Cycle
Batteries – Page 34.
Those troublesome capacitors, Pt.2 – by Rodney Champness
DEPARTMENTS
2
4
65
87
89
Publisher’s Letter
Mailbag
Order Form
Product Showcase
Silicon Chip Weblink
siliconchip.com.au
106
109
110
112
Ask Silicon Chip
Notes & Errata
Market Centre
Ad Index
Driveway Sentry – Page 66.
November 2004 1
PUBLISHER’S LETTER
www.siliconchip.com.au
Publisher & Editor-in-Chief
Leo Simpson, B.Bus., FAICD
Production Manager
Greg Swain, B.Sc.(Hons.)
Technical Editor
Peter Smith
Technical Staff
John Clarke, B.E.(Elec.)
Ross Tester
Jim Rowe, B.A., B.Sc, VK2ZLO
Reader Services
Ann Jenkinson
Advertising Enquiries
Phil Benedictus
Laurence Smith
Benedictus Smith Pty Ltd
Phone (02) 9211 9792
Fax: (02) 9211 0068
info<at>benedictus-smith.com
Regular Contributors
Brendan Akhurst
Rodney Champness, VK3UG
Julian Edgar, Dip.T.(Sec.), B.Ed
Mike Sheriff, B.Sc, VK2YFK
Stan Swan
SILICON CHIP is published 12 times
a year by Silicon Chip Publications
Pty Ltd. ACN 003 205 490. ABN 49
003 205 490 All material copyright
©. No part of this publication may
be reproduced without the written
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Printing: Hannanprint, Noble Park,
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Distribution: Network Distribution
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Subscription rates: $83.00 per
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Editorial & advertising offices:
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Fax (02) 9979 6503.
E-mail: silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au
ISSN 1030-2662
Fixed line phones no longer
a necessity
This month’s feature story on “Unwired”
internet access must worry anyone who has
Telstra shares. Why? Because Telstra’s customers
no longer need a fixed line telephone service to
obtain internet access. Up till now, if you wanted
internet access, whether dial-up via a 56K modem
or an ADSL broadband service, you had to have
a fixed line telephone service. The exceptions
would be if you had cable TV, in which case you
could have a cable modem for internet or you
might have used a satellite internet service. For
the vast majority of people though, a fixed line telephone was a necessity.
Of course, if you don’t need internet access and you already have a mobile phone, you have not needed a fixed line telephone service for some
time. In fact, tens of thousands of people living in rented accommodation
throughout Australia have long ago opted not to bother with a fixed line
service. In doing so, they avoid installation charges which are hard to justify,
since they normally only require a few minutes work by a technician at the
local exchange. They also avoid monthly rental charges, high STD phone
charges and so on.
For a person who makes very few phone calls, a prepaid mobile is definitely
the way go. There are no rental charges, you only pay for the calls you make
and incoming calls are free. Why bother with a fixed line telephone?
This is a world-wide trend, with the number of mobile phones rapidly
exceeding the number of fixed line installations. In fact, many developing
countries look to be leap-frogging the large infrastructure cost of fixed lines
and just adopting mobile phone services instead.
In Australia, one could foresee a situation where most private individuals
do not have fixed line phones – they would be confined to businesses and
organisations. And then you have to factor in the concept of “Voice over IP”
as described in last month’s issue – for virtually any telephone calls. Large
businesses are already migrating to VOIP for long distance calls and small
business and private individuals will largely follow in the future. So even
if they keep their fixed line telephone systems, they will be using VOIP and
ADSL to cut their long-distance phone costs.
All of which does not augur well for Telstra. It has an enormous investment
in its fixed line network in which it has a monopoly. But it doesn’t have a
monopoly in mobile phones where it is being buffeted by intense competition
by some very aggressive players. So unless there is some new development
which encourages customers to take up more services involving fixed line
telephones, one can only see Telstra’s fixed line revenues being severely
eroded in the future. Sooner or later, and probably sooner, the investment
pundits will realise this and the shares will go down accordingly.
This is yet another example of the inexorable march of technology. At
one time, steam engines and horseless carriages had a very big market but
they fizzled to nothing.
What can Telstra do? In the short term, it might like to buy Unwired
Australia!
Leo Simpson
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2 Silicon Chip
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MAILBAG
Video formats:
why bother?
Jim Rowe is a braver man than I,
in attempting to explain the reasons
behind all those different video input configurations (August 2004), to
even reasonably technically “fluent”
electronics enthusiasts. I’ve given
up trying to explain how and why
you use the “16 x 9 scan” facility on
TV sets with standard 4:3 tubes, in
conjunction with the “16 x 9 output”
facility on DVD players and digital
set-top boxes!
And nobody seems to have any idea
what I’m talking about when I try to
demonstrate the differences between
Composite, Component and Y-C video.
Even I have trouble telling the difference sometimes!
There are a couple of small errors
in his explanation of the use of luminance filtering in TV receivers. He
states: “The problem here (in early
TV sets) was that the low-pass filter
... had to have a cutoff frequency no
higher than about 3.2MHz...” In fact, I
have never encountered a luminance
low-pass filter used in any colour TV
receiver, nor is one necessary. With a
proper “sync-coherent” colour subcarrier (ie, for PAL, one that is locked
to precisely 283.75 times the line frequency plus half the field frequency),
the visibility of the colour subcarrier
on the screen is quite small.
In most cases, a simple 4.43MHz
tuned notch filter is all that is required, simply removing some of the
dot pattern from large areas of colour.
Although this leaves the chroma
sidebands untouched, you really only
notice these on colour bar signals
and similar electronically generated
patterns.
The reality is, a well-designed
standard PAL TV receiver will quite
happily display luminance frequencies right out to 5MHz. The notch
filter produces a small dropout at the
colour subcarrier frequency but this is
normally quite unnoticeable. This applies equally to the latest AV monsters,
as to sets nearly 30 years old. (And yes,
a surprising number of those old warriors are still going strong!) It is true
4 Silicon Chip
that in recent years some el-cheapo TV
sets have had some truly atrociously
designed video output amplifiers, giving some pretty ordinary pictures, but
this trend has now reversed with the
proliferation of single-chip CRT drivers
in even the cheapest models.
Low-pass filters have to be used
with VCRs on the other hand, because
the colour recording and playback
process involves some extremely
rigorous processing to enable the recovered chroma signal to be displayed
on an unmodified TV set. If any of the
original chroma signals managed to get
recorded along with the luminance,
you would wind up with a mixture of
processed and unprocessed chroma,
which would produce unsightly patterning on the colour image.
When VCRs were first introduced,
it’s true there was simply no practical means of doing this, other than
using simple low-pass filtering. Even
low-end broadcast formats such as
High Band U-Matic suffered from this
limitation. In virtually all cases, the
luminance bandwidth is flat to about
2.5MHz and then drops to zero by
3MHz. Using the “80 lines per megahertz” rule of thumb, 2.5MHz equates
to about 200 lines.
Although VCR playback signals
have lost the subcarrier/sync coherency, the savagely reduced replay chroma bandwidth (typically ±300kHz)
means that the TV set’s notch filter
can effectively filter this out, so it all
works happily enough.
S-VHS (“Super VHS”) and the
concept of Y-C signals actually dates
back to a 1979 proposal by JVC for a
“turnkey” portable video theatrette
system that would allow currentrelease movies to be shown in remote
districts. This proposal sank without a
trace and S-VHS was then reinvented
as a “Vi-Fi” consumer format that
never really went anywhere and was
finally massaged into a reasonably
successful professional and low-end
broadcast format!
Because there is never any time
when the luminance and chroma
signals are mixed together during the
playback process, it’s perfectly OK for
the luminance signal to have residues
of the original colour subcarrier in it,
which means that you can record and
play back a virtually full 5MHz luminance bandwidth from off-air signals.
(Of course you get even better results
if the luminance is recorded directly
inside the camera without ever “seeing” the chroma signal, which was the
basis of S-VHS camcorders).
When DVD players came along,
some manufacturers started to take
advantage of the “S-Video” (Y-C)
inputs available on some high-end
TV receivers. Technically this was
a mere detail: the analog luminance
and chroma signals are generated
separately in the MPEG decoder chips;
all they had to do was divert some of
these signals to the Y-C connector as
well as combining them to produce a
composite video output.
Y-C inputs are capable of quite good
results; the problem is that they were
only really designed to handle the
300kHz chrominance bandwidth of
VHS signals. Although a DVD player
could easily provide chroma signals
with a wider bandwidth, certain peculiarities of the NTSC system limit
any such improvement to only 500kHz
(at least without major changes to the
decoder circuitry).
Component video inputs on the
other hand will deliver the full theoretical 1.5MHz chrominance bandwidth of NTSC signals, and in the
present climate of international set
design, this is the real reason TV set
(and chip) manufacturers have gone
for this system, even though S-Video
is considerably simpler and cheaper to
implement, on both ends. Otherwise
S-Video would have been all there
ever was!
siliconchip.com.au
Also, there seems to be a bit of
confusion about the “Zone Plate” test
signals shown in the article on the
Video Enhancer and Y-C Separator. In
theory, there should be no difference
between the Y-C and Component input
images. The reason we see a difference
has more to do with the economics
of DVD player design than the signal
systems themselves!
This is understandable if you appreciate what actually goes on in the
MPEG decoder/PAL encoder chips. In
an old-fashioned (20th century) analog
chroma encoder, the colour difference
signals are fed to a pair of analog balanced modulators to generate the two
suppressed-carrier AM signals. These
are then combined with the luminance
signal to give composite video.
In a modern DVD player, the entire modulated colour subcarrier is
synthesised directly, by some very
fancy software. This may not sound
all that awesome, until you realize
that the PAL 4.43361875MHz (and
NTSC 3.579545MHz) colour subcarrier
frequencies have no direct numerical
relationship to the 27MHz master clock
frequency most commonly used!
How do they do it? Well, consider
an ordinary 4.43MHz unmodulated
sinewave being fed to an 8-bit
analog-to-digital converter, clocked
at 27MHz. What you would get is a
27MHz stream of bytes which if then
decoded by a DAC would reproduce
the original carrier. There would be
no immediately recognisable pattern
to the numeric values of the string
of bytes though, because the 27MHz
clock would be continually sampling
at different points on the waveform.
However, there is a definite mathematical relationship involved and a
fast enough computer can reproduce
this pattern with a suitable mathematical algorithm.
From there it is a relatively simple
matter to digitally multiply the samples with the values of R-Y and B-Y
coming from the MPEG decoder, add
the colour burst and voila: a complete
modulated PAL subcarrier, direct from
the DAC!
While this works very well, they
have to cut a few corners, and so very
few (if any) DVD players produce a
true broadcast-quality sync-coherent
colour subcarrier. Unfortunately this
siliconchip.com.au
means that their wide luminance
bandwidth is more prone to generating “cross-colour” artefacts. However,
they can cheat somewhat; it is possible
to identify and filter out just those luminance components which are most
likely to cause cross-colour and that is
what most manufacturers do.
I can assure you, if that zone plate
was generated by pointing a TV camera
at an actual printed chart, the colour
artefacts would be much worse!
The reason why the Y-C and Component input displays look different is that in virtually all cases the
luminance fed to the “Y-C” output is
merely the “doctored” (pre-filtered)
“Composite” luminance sans chroma!
Apparently, generating a separate
unfiltered “Y” signal for the “Y-C”
output is simply too hard. I suspect
the reason they don’t simply use the
Y from the YUV output is that most
DVD players also allow you the option
of RGB output from the same sockets
and the potential for user stuff-ups is
simply too large!
Keith Walters,
via email.
Atmel’s AVR, from
JED in Australia
JED has designed a range of
single board computers and
modules as a way of using the
AVR without SMT board design
The AVR570 module (above) is a way of
using an ATmega128 CPU on a user base
board without having to lay out the intricate,
surface-mounted surrounds of the CPU, and
then having to manufacture your board on
an SMT robot line. Instead you simply layout
a square for four 0.1” spaced socket strips
and plug in our pre-tested module. The
module has the crystal, resetter, AVR-ISP
programming header (and an optional JTAG
ICE pad), as well as programming signal
switching. For a little extra, we load a DS1305
RTC, crystal and Li battery underneath,
which uses SPI and port G.
See JED’s www site for a datasheet.
AVR573 Single Board Computer
Caution on CFL driver
power to TV
With regard to the CFL Driver in the
September 2004 issue, if it is to be used
to power a TV, first understand that the
power switch on the TV is designed
for use on AC where any tendency
to contact arcing is quenched during
the zero crossings. These switches
arc notoriously when switching more
than about 100V DC, even on a 2-pole
switch.
Some TVs use a small power transformer to power the remote control
receiver and CPU. This type of receiver
MUST NOT be used on DC. It would
seem to be a sensible idea to increase
the value of the 6.8kΩ resistor to about
7.3kΩ by putting a 470Ω resistor in series with the original component. This
should reduce the maximum voltage
from the converter to around 335V
while the unit is supplying standby
power only or if the 12V line rises to say
14.5V as it could do while the battery
is being charged in a vehicle.
The reason for doing this is because
most switch-mode power supplies
work at about this value when operating from a nominal 240VAC mains
This board uses the AVR570 module and
adds 20 An./Dig. inputs, 12 FET outs, LCD/
Kbd, 2xRS232, 1xRS485, 1-Wire, power reg.
etc. See www.jedmicro.com.au/avr.htm
$330 PC-PROM Programmer
This programmer plugs into a PC printer
port and reads, writes and edits any 28 or
32-pin PROM. Comes with plug-pack, cable
and software.
Also available is a multi-PROM UV eraser
with timer, and a 32/32 PLCC converter.
JED Microprocessors Pty Ltd
173 Boronia Rd, Boronia, Victoria, 3155
Ph. 03 9762 3588, Fax 03 9762 5499
www.jedmicro.com.au
November 2004 5
Mailbag: continued
supply; higher voltages can cause
premature power supply failure.
The degausser can be converted to
operate from DC by charging a 150nF
500V capacitor from the 335V supply
through a 330Ω resistor and discharging it through the degaussing coil
manually with a robust pushbutton
switch. The resistor can be left connected permanently. When the coil
is shunted across the capacitor, the
circuit will oscillate in a decaying
fashion for a short period and in so
doing the flux reversals will demagnetise the CRT.
The values are those I have used in
the past with great success on professional portable monitors converted for
battery operation. I have no idea if the
values will work for the set mentioned
in your article, however I see no reason
why one could not experiment.
Note if a new TV is modified or
even if the back is removed, one is liable to void the warranty. Also fitting
a manual degausser with a pushbutton switch and then using the set on
the 240VAC mains would render the
safety certification for operation null
and void so BEWARE.
Victor G Barker, VK2BTV,
via email.
Slander on
CFLs unjustified
Your editorial that CFLs aren’t
economic, in the August 2004 issue,
deserves a response. Until early this
year I was on the body corporate of a
large multi-story block of home units
with 11 stair-wells that relied on artificial lighting.
The cleaner, who was responsible
for changing light globes, came to me
asking whether it would be a good idea
to fit CFLs instead of incandescent
globes. We tried it. He had previously
been having to replace all the bulbs at
an average of every six weeks. None
of the CFLs had failed at the point
at which equal cost was reached; ie,
purchase price plus cost of power used
for both was equal.
Only one CFL had failed within 48
weeks of being fitted, indicating that
they met and exceeded the 8000-hour
life their manufacturers claimed. In
6 Silicon Chip
the end, it worked out that by using
CFLs the body corporate was saving
$600 per year just on the basis of globe
costs and power, plus the cleaner’s
time savings.
I have used CFLs virtually since
they came on the market and have had
only one obvious premature failure.
You really ought to be asking why you
had the problems you did rather then
slandering a good product.
Secondly, I must comment on your
answer in “Ask Silicon Chip” to D. K.,
of Innisfail, who asked whether the
Smart Mixture Display would work
with a diesel engine.
If you were trying to be funny you
should be more obvious, otherwise
readers might conclude you give answers when you have no idea what you
are talking about. Yes, the device will
work with a diesel engine if it has an
oxygen sensor but of course they don’t,
for reasons that are obvious to anyone
who knows the basic principles that
diesel engines run on. Detecting a lean
mixture on a diesel would be pointless.
They run lean by design. That’s how
they work.
Gordon Drennan,
Burton, SA.
Comment: sorry Gordon, but the answer concerning the diesel motor was
fair dinkum and oxygen sensors can
be fitted. Properly adjusted, diesels
are supposed to run lean. Many don’t.
Voltage warnings supported
I fully support your September
2004 editorial regarding the voltage
warnings added to the projects in SILICON CHIP. Having some 45 plus years
experience in electronics, I have seen
(and been guilty of myself) too many
accidents ending in smoke and tears.
It is not only the beginner but the
experienced technician and engineer
that have the accidents that can put
life and limb at risk.
I spent the early part of this year
working in an electrical safety testing
lab which, excuse the pun, brought
me down to earth with a thud! Me,
with all the years of experience, had
the basics brought home to me in no
uncertain terms.
Most of my time at the lab was
spent testing mains voltage CFLs
where the voltages could be in excess
of 2500kV peak. Some voltage waveform measurements were carried out
with respect to mains earth using an
isolation transformer on the CRO and
when measurements between output
terminals were required, two isolation
transformers were used, one on the
CRO and one for the CFL. All this with
a high-voltage probe to boot!
As you correctly stated in your Publisher’s Letter, the main concern is the
accidental transposition of neutral for
active, which could render the earthy
side of the CRO BNC connector live,
with disastrous results.
So big and bold warnings please.
If I skipped them before, after my six
months in the testing lab, I will read
them now.
Michael Abrams,
Capalaba, Qld.
Novices will make mistakes
The letter by Otto S. Hoolhorst concerning unnecessary voltage warnings,
in the September 2004 issue, has me
a bit steamed up. To me, he appears
to have no regard for safety, possibly
his own but obviously not for novices.
The old saying that “there are two
things in life that are guaranteed, death
and taxes” should have a third one
added: “Novices will make mistakes”.
Lots of times. That’s how we all learn.
Most of us are lucky and no real harm
is done.
I have 30 odd years in the electronics game, both military and civilian
and even now I screw up sometimes.
I screw up through complacency, a
novice because of lack of experience.
We are only talking about a cautionary note but they are critical. A novice must be made doubly aware that
incorrect actions can lead to disaster,
especially with higher voltages. It’s
no big deal if you let the smoke out of
some component, it’s easily replaceable. But if you fry yourself in the
process, maybe Otto is invulnerable
but I’m sure not!
Yes, that project may not really be
one suitable for a novice but no doubt
they will attempt to build it, if it fits a
need. Therefore it’s best to err on the
side of caution and safety.
The thing Leo may have been too polite to mention in his “Publishers Letter
siliconchip.com.au
is the legal aspect. Would Otto like to
be in Leo’s shoes if he has to explain
to a prosecuting attorney why there
was no warning that the project was
potentially dangerous? Would Otto
like to pay the fine/serve the time if
someone died because they were not
warned of potential hazards. I think
not! Yet these days, a Publisher can
be held accountable if an article they
approved for printing is found to be
a contributing factor in someone’s
injury/death.
Sorry Otto, those cautionary notes
are there for a good reason. If they
bother you that much, then too bad.
Ralph Teichel,
via email.
Separating SMPS
transformer core halves
I read Keith Farmer’s letter on the
subject of separating SMPS transformer core halves with much interest
(Mailbag, July 2004). I have rebuilt several computer power supplies and as
Mr Farmer found, not all transformers
come apart after soaking in paint stripper. I found that after the paint stripper
treatment, dunking the transformer in
boiling water released the glue holding
the core halves together.
I would be reluctant to put an SMPS
transformer core in a microwave oven
in case the microwave energy caused
high enough flux densities in the ferrite to produce an irreversible change
in the magnetic characteristics. However, if Mr Farmer’s treatment worked
and the power supply subsequently
operated without a problem, well
and good.
Keith Gooley,
Edinburgh, SA.
Off switch is the best
energy saver
Your recent articles on energy conservation and compact fluorescent
lighting are timely and welcome. With
regard to the former, I found during an
energy audit that standby loads were
using 1.5kWh per day. As such, I have
been promoting the “off switch” as the
cheapest energy saver available for
some years now. Additional benefits
include lower fire risk in the home and
longer appliance life.
I have always been a little suspicious of the actual saving achieved
siliconchip.com.au
by using compact fluorescent lights.
Apart from the high cost and short
lifespan issues, I believe they may not
be as efficient as the label indicates.
At a demonstration I attended at the
Central Queensland University in
Rockhampton, it was shown that the
power consumption of a 15W CFL was
actually 35-40VA in some cases.
I concur with your view on using
fluorescent tube lights where possible.
I find that low wattage incandescent
globes, 25W & 40W, used in suitable
locations for short periods are far more
economical in the long term. Your
advice to return CFL lights that fail
prematurely is the only way we can
expect product improvement.
Perhaps LED lighting will be a suitable replacement in the future.
Brian Bartlett,
Rockhampton, Qld.
CFL build quality
is the key
I have to agree that many CFLs die
early. I have even had them fry the
instant they were turned on for the first
time but as one of the letters in your
latest issue also mentioned, certain
brands are much better than others.
I have not had a Philips unit fail
before around 6000 hours and have
generally been very happy with them.
The ones I have owned have certainly
saved me a lot of money over the
years. Another good brand is Osram,
although they seem to be making their
lamps in two places now; the cheap
version comes from China while the
better version still comes from Europe.
You can buy the cheap ones in a pack
of two for $5.99 in Coles supermarkets
at the moment. And they are a nice
warm white. I’m not sure how long
they will run – will know that in a
year or two I expect!
Back when the Osram lamps were
called Wotan (I believe you can still
get them under that brand), they were
made in Germany and were just about
unkillable. I know of two people here
who have Wotan lamps dating back
over 10 years that are still running (one
home has several lamps that age and
they are all working fine). How many
hours these lamps have on them is
anyone’s guess, but it would be well
over 10,000.
Anyway, I pulled apart one of my
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Wotan lamps after I got tired of waiting it to die after three years. It had
much better rated components than
any Asian made unit I have seen. For
instance, 550V-rated transistors compared to 400V in the cheap lamps, and
a 450V filter cap compared to 350V to
400V (there is not much margin on a
350V capacitor on a 250VAC supply!).
At the time I pulled it apart it had
already paid for itself, despite costing
$30 at the time, but had I not killed it
during the disassembly then it would
have saved me a lot more.
So the problem is one of specification more than anything but build
quality also comes into it. I had one
lamp that was dead when bought, so I
opened it up and found two of the tube
leads touching each other. Separating
them fixed it, and it is still going strong
two years later.
So my advice is to buy the better
quality units, because like most things,
you get what you pay for.
Lance Turner,
Templestowe Lower, Vic.
SC
November 2004 7
Want to go
broadband
anywhere . . .
without waiting for
ADSL or Cable
connection?
Look Mum:
No Wires!
A
ustralians are amongst the
world’s largest users of the Internet. These days, if you have
a computer, the chances are you have
an Internet connection. And chances
are also that it is dial-up, sharing the
phone line with your existing voice
phone service.
With the price of broadband ever
falling, huge numbers of people have
taken the plunge and signed up for
one of the countless offerings available from an almost equally countless
number of suppliers.
8 Silicon Chip
If you have ADSL broadband, well
done. As we have found, it’s not always as easy as the suppliers make
it out to be.
If you could get over the hurdle
of ADSL availability (eg, signing up
for anything on the Telstra network
meant living within just a couple of
kilometres of the telephone exchange)
you then had to wait for Telstra to let
you know that first of all your line
By Ross Tester
was capable of handling ADSL (and
apparently there are many that aren’t,
mainly due to cost-cutting installations in earlier, less-digitally-enlightened times). Then, some time (possibly
weeks) later, you were informed that
you had been connected to ADSL and
you could plug in your broadband
modem, sign up with an ISP and away
you’d go. Hopefully.
Many consumers have been caught
out with “bargain” broadband connections, finding that the usage limits
(and in some cases both upload and
siliconchip.com.au
downloads count) are unrealistically
low. While 300 or 400MB sounds a lot
for a dial-up user, it doesn’t take long
to gobble that up – and then some.
Most people find that when they
connect the always-on broadband, usage increases dramatically (why look
up a phone book when you can find the
info on the net?) and the usage limits
are very quickly exceeded. And that’s
when some of the broadband ISPs really start earning bulk income: many
ISPs charge downright exorbitant rates
once you exceed your monthly limit.
But that part of broadband is really
another story (solutions for which
we hope to look at in more detail in a
future issue).
Cable broadband has of course been
an alternative – if (a) you could get it
(and there are still vast areas which
have not been “cabled”) and (b) if you
could afford it. Cable broadband has, at
least until recently, been significantly
more expensive than ADSL.
An aside: a mate of mine is an Optus
cable broadband customer because
ADSL isn’t available at his place. He
pays about seventy dollars a month
for the privilege. Not long ago, Optus
magnanimously told him they were
upping his limit from the current
plan’s three gigabytes a month to ten.
He very seldom uses any more than
one gigabyte. Would they lower the
monthly rate and keep him at three?
Last time I saw him he was still whistling Dixie.
OK, so what if you could bypass
the whole ADSL/cable rigmarole and
have a broadband connection literally
within minutes? One that is at least
competitive with Telstra/Optus offerings? And perhaps more importantly,
one that doesn’t charge you extra for
your excess usage?
The Unwired system: in front is the Unwired “rabbit” modem, plugging into the
ethernet connection on the laptop (USB versions are also available). It really is
as simple as plugging in and turning on . . . providing you have wireless access.
Enter Unwired
If you live in Sydney, you could
hardly have missed the ads for Unwired on commercial radio (OK,
maybe you listen to the ABC . . .).
Unwired is a one of the large number of
service providers offering broadband
Internet connection.
But Unwired is different. As its
name suggests, Unwired doesn’t rely
on Telstra (or Optus cable, or any other
copper) to connect you. It is totally
wireless – all done via a network of
3.4GHz radio towers spread throughout Sydney, which (at the moment)
cover about 90% of the population.
siliconchip.com.au
Unwired’s coverage of the Sydney area is pretty good, considering the
topography. They cannot say how long the yellow bits will take to come on line.
November 2004 9
and other key regions in Australia for
service expansion. They aren’t saying
when but we’d be surprised if it’s not
sooner rather than later, because Unwired has a very heavy investment in
the spectrum space needed to provide
the service. How much investment? A
cool $100 million+ is the figure being
talked about.
So how does it work?
Run, rabbit, run: the back end of
the Unwired modem shows just two
sockets, one for power and one for (in
this case) PC Ethernet connection.
Right now there are 69 of these towers; shortly that will extend to 73 and
cover closer to 95%.
Note that said population, not area.
There is a big difference!
Of course, due to Sydney’s topography
there will always be some pockets not
reached but according to Unwired, these
will be relatively few and far between.
It’s not the same coverage as mobile
phones but it’s not too dissimilar.
And while it is only available in Sydney right now, Unwired has targeted
Brisbane, Melbourne, Adelaide, Perth
We’ve published several articles
in SILICON CHIP about WiFi – digital
wireless “networking” using (mainly)
the 802.11b or 802.11g standards on
2.4GHz. Well, Unwired is not WiFi –
although it is similar in some respects.
For a start, it is significantly higher in
frequency – around 3.4GHz.
Wifi, via a wireless network card
inside your desktop PC, or a PC card
or USB stick attached to your laptop,
links to a local access point, itself
“hard wired” to ADSL or cable in the
normal way.
Hence your connection to the ’net
is based on standard copper wire
technology until the last little “hop”
via wireless. It also depends on that
access point being and staying connected. Often (usually?) you have to
pay for the privilege of using it and in
some cases, it can be as expensive as
using an internet café!
Unwired users have an entirely different type of connection – it uses a
special wireless modem (often called
a “rabbit” – and if you look at the photos, you’ll see why!) to connect to one
of their strategically-placed towers. It
doesn’t even have to be line-of-sight
but it does have to be within range.
They talk about a range of around 10km
Setup is as simple as following the step-by-step screens that
appear when you run the setup CD which comes with the
modem.
10 Silicon Chip
The front end of the Unwired Modem
showing the fold-up rabbit ear
antenna plus the three indicator LEDs
and power switch.
(which, at 3.4GHz, is not too shabby!).
Unwired is based on a proprietary
(and patented) system called “MultiCarrier Beamforming Technology”
(MCSB) from Navini Networks in
the USA. It’s also known as Nomadic
Wireless Broadband Access, bringing
wireless not just to an antenna or dish
on the roof (as some other systems do)
but right to the user’s computer (or at
least to the modem close by).
To connect to Unwired, you simply
plug in the modem. That’s either
via a USB port or an Ethernet port,
Naturally, you have to sign up to one of the Unwired plans
before you can start surfing – but you can do this on line as
part of the setup procedure. It’s delightfully simple to do.
siliconchip.com.au
depending on the type of modem
purchased.
The modem cost, by the way, is
about $189, either on-line (direct from
Unwired or via several agents) or retail
from technology chain Harvey Norman.
If you’re in a reception area, after
a few seconds one of three coloured
LEDs on the unit glows steady. You
then sign up for a plan using your
credit card, and you’re on line.
Total elapsed time? You’d hardly
have enough time to get the egg out of
the fridge, let alone boil it . . .
Speed
Once connection is established (and
we’ll look at that in a moment), there
appears to be little difference between
apparent speeds loading and browsing sites I was familiar with using
Unwired or using ADSL/cable. Given
the fact that I was using a computer
which would have little if any cached
sites, I was pleasantly surprised by the
speed and smoothness of the wireless
system.
The three plans on offer run
at 256/64Kbps, 512/128Kbps and
1024/256Kbps (download/upload
speeds – like ADSL, Unwired is not
synchronous).
Unwired does not run at a constant
speed; it varies according to usage of
the system at any given time in much
the same way as cable broadband varies: more users, lower speed. For the
two weeks or so I played with Unwired,
I cannot say speed ever dropped to
“too low” levels, although I have read
many reports of people complaining
of sluggishness at certain times of the
day (especially early evening).
Also, I experienced none of the
dropouts which have been reported
in other media, although given the
minimal signal strength in my area I
would not have been surprised to find
dropouts a problem.
There have also been reports of
massive variations in signal strength
on different floors of the same building – one report, surprisingly, said that
on the fourth floor there was no signal
while on the ground floor there was.
Not wireless?
Believe it or not, there has been
comment in the popular press (and
on newsgroups) that Unwired really
isn’t a wireless system because you
have to connect the modem to your
PC and also to a power outlet.
Sheesh!! What do they want? Taking
the second point first, they’re wrong,
because the Unwired modem contains
an internal rechargeable battery which
will give you up to an hour’s connection away from a power source – as our
lead photo (and front cover) shows!
The other objection really doesn’t
warrant a comment, except that it
points up a very good reason for
not having non-technical journalists
And here’s the proof: the SILICON CHIP website on screen less than three minutes
from the time we turned the computer on. Speeds on the service we had were
commensurate with our mid-range ADSL service at the SILICON CHIP office.
siliconchip.com.au
What about
iBurst?
While we have been concentrating
on Unwired, other wireless contenders
have recently launched on the Australian market, or are in the process of
doing so even as this issue goes to
press.
The most prominent of these is
iBurst, backed by the large ISP Ozemail.
Their Personal Broadband service was
launched in late September (although
it would appear that Ozemail have
renamed theirs Metrowide Wireless).
Unfortunately, we couldn’t look at
iBurst as we have Unwired, because as
yet it doesn’t have much coverage of
Sydney’s Northern Beaches at all!
iBurst uses a different system (Arraycom’s IntelliCell technology) to
achieve a somewhat similar result.
Like Unwired, it will offer broadband
coverage over a wide area of Sydney
(though not yet as wide as Unwired) but
is already launching into interstate markets. Most of the northern Gold Coast is
already on line (sorry, wrong choice of
words – not on line, on wireless!) and
iBurst was promising to have Brisbane,
Melbourne and Canberra up and running
within a matter of weeks.
In fact, iBurst will offer two versions
of its wireless service – one is a mobile
system in the true sense of the word,
capable of giving a seamless connection to a notebook computer in a car
travelling at up to 50km/h. Tests we
have seen haven’t been quite so good
as the marketing hype suggests but still
relatively good, nevertheless. Prices
are relatively steep at $99/month for a
1MB per second/1GB limit service and
$199 per month for a 1MB per second
unlimited service. Still, if mobility is
important to you, you’re probably
prepared to pay the price.
The second service is similar to
the ADSL/cable alternative offered by
Unwired – ie, portable, not mobile.
Prices are more reasonable (though
slightly higher than Unwired), starting
at $49.95 a month for a 256KB service
and $99 for a 1GB service.
Ordering is via the web (www.
ozemail.com.au) with modem delivery
within 24 hours. Ozemail promise to
have your account activated by the
time you receive your modem.
November 2004 11
nificant degree when the wavelength
approaches the raindrop size. 3.4GHz
signals have a wavelength of about
0.09 metres or 9cm, a tad larger than
even Noah-sized rain.
For all intents and purposes, you
can use the figure of 10GHz as the
minimum affected frequency (for the
same reason, Ku-band [11-13GHz]
satellite signals can be affected by rain
while C-band [4-5GHz] are relatively
immune).
How well does it work?
After you’ve purchased the wireless modem (about $189, which is significantly
more than an ADSL/cable modem), the plans are not dissimilar to the plans
offered by wired broadband ISPs. The minimum plan is $34.95 per month.
talking about matters technical in the
non-technical press! And now I have
that off my chest . . .
What affects Wireless
strength?
The location of the antenna can
often make the difference between no
signal at all and wall-to-wall signal...
or anywhere in between. Because in
the case of Unwired the antenna is
an integral part of the modem, that
means placing the modem in the most
advantageous position.
Filing cabinets, steel-reinforced
concrete walls, aluminium-backed
wall or ceiling insulation . . . even
someone walking between your modem and the wireless tower (wherever
that might be) can cause degradation
or even total loss of signal. That’s why
you might need to experiment somewhat for best signal level.
It’s quite common to read reports
of rock-solid signal on one side of a
building and low or no signal on the
other. Low signal levels mean that data
speeds are reduced or sometimes data
disappears and the link drops out.
The USB or Ethernet (crossover)
cables supplied with the modem are
only a couple of metres in length. But
you might need to place the modem
(say) on the other side of the room for
best signal strength.
The Ethernet modem would be
the best option here because you can
buy significantly longer cables (many
12 Silicon Chip
metres long) which will have little
apparent effect (if any at all) on your
system speed.
Naturally, your system will need an
Ethernet card for this to be practical
– either on-board, as most late-model
desktops and laptops are, or an add-in
Ethernet card (fortunately now VERY
cheap!).
The USB option, on the other
hand, does limit you to a fairly short
distance. You can buy USB extension
cables but your maximum is just a
couple of metres more. Otherwise you
would have to start looking at amplifiers – our advice is to stick with the
Ethernet version.
Is Wireless affected by rain?
Mmm – good question. There’s a lot
of discussion about this point, with
some saying it is (a little) and some
saying it isn’t at all.
Because wireless signal strength
DOES vary significantly due to any
number of factors, we believe that rain
might often be the innocent victim –
eg, signal strength’s down a bit today.
Yep, it’s raining. Therefore it must be
the rain causing it.
(Corollary: the bank robber was described as having blue eyes and blonde
hair. There’s a blue-eyed blonde. He
must be a bank robber . . .).
The truth is (at least according to
many satellite websites that we’ve
looked at) that rain normally only
starts affecting radio signal to any sig-
Here’s where we came across the
first stumbling block. Unwired’s marketing people suggested we try the
system “both at home and in the office”
because they were selling Unwired as
suitable for both home use and small
office use.
OK, first thing I did was had a look
at the Unwired coverage map on
their website. Like many ADSL/cable
websites you can type in your street
name and suburb and you’ll get a map
showing availability (www.unwired.
com.au/availability/current.php).
I did – type my street name in, that
is. Aaaaaagh!!!! Not in the service area.
Strike one. (Of course I tried – just
one street away I managed excellent
reception. One lousy street!).
I have seen several comments about
being able to use Unwired well outside
their “official” service area. But not
in my case.
So I thought I’d try the SILICON CHIP
office and typed in the address.
Aaaaagh!!!! Strike two. In fact, the
whole of the Mona Vale area, one of the
major retail, business and industrial
centres of the Northern Beaches, is not
covered. That was a surprise.
When I raised this anomaly with the
people from Unwired, they informed
me that there was a site available for a
tower which would solve the problem
for both areas.
But thus far they had been stymied
by some misguided tree-hugging souls
who maintained that those electromagnetic thingies would make them glow
in the dark or something. (So they used
their mobile phones to call all their
friends to the protest . . .)
No strike three!
What to do? Fortunately, my “home
away from home”, Narrabeen Beach
Surf Lifesaving Club, was in an area
with coverage (it is in a pink area on
the Unwired website map).
siliconchip.com.au
So – down to the club, plugged the
modem into the Ethernet socket on
the club’s PC, turned it on and . . . no
signal.
You can tell whether you have signal
by the three LEDs on the front of the
unit. Green means a very strong signal,
orange a strong signal and red a good
signal. Flashing red means no signal.
As advised in the setup, I moved
the modem slightly closer to a window and, joy of joys, the LED stopped
flashing – “good” signal. Elsewhere in,
and outside, the club (away from the
foil-covered roof insulation), the signal
was green – excellent.
The setup via the supplied CD was,
thankfully, a doddle and I was on the
net literally three minutes from when I
turned the PC on – including entering
the password and user names which
Unwired had thoughtfully provided.
Mr or Mrs Average Citizen would
get their password and user names
when they first log on and purchase
their plan.
Unwired in use
Quite simply, I found using Unwired
broadband very similar in performance to the two other broadband
services I regularly use: ADSL here at
SILICON CHIP and cable at home.
Regrettably, I wasn’t in a position to
do any actual speed tests (I was about
to but the trial period ran out!) but
purely by observation, I would have
to say I was pretty happy with the way
Unwired broadband behaved.
That feeling was further backed
up when one of my colleagues here
at SILICON CHIP took the Unwired
modem home for a few days. He’s in
the north-western suburbs of Sydney
and reported an instant “green” signal
(excellent level) when he plugged in
Unwired and no problems whatsoever
with surfing the ’net.
Unlike me, he is close enough to the
exchange to theoretically get ADSL
but suffers from the Telstra “pair gain”
bogey so it’s back to the “incompatible
infrastructure” excuse. Though Foxtel
cable is available in his street, given
his success with Unwired, he’s pretty
firmly convinced which way he is
going to go.
Is Unwired safe?
A few moments ago, I made somewhat flippant comment about electromagnetic radiation. But is that a
concern with the Unwired system?
siliconchip.com.au
Given the fact that Unwired is “up
there” on 3.4GHz (much higher than
mobile phones, WiFi or even microwave ovens!) AND the fact that you
have a device emitting e-m radiation
very close to where you are working,
perhaps it is something to be wary of.
Where I was being sarcastic was
in objections to electromagnetic radiation from Unwired towers: sure,
transmitted energy levels will be
higher but the inverse square law
tells me that the radiation at ground
level would be diminished to virtual
background levels.
Having said that, I would be wary
about having an Unwired modem in
close proximity to where I’m sleeping
(and let’s face it – a lot of kids would
have their PC, ergo their Unwired
modem, on a desk next to their bed).
In fact, I’d want to keep the distance
between it and me as far as practical.
Even Unwired themselves have a
warning with the modem that it should
not be used within 20cm of a person.
It’s probably more of a “protect your
butt” clause than anything else but it’s
something to keep in mind.
Do you really need a phone
line any more?
Many of Sydney’s (and, obviously,
Australia’s) young, mobile population
live in rented accommodation which
may or may not include a phone line.
Even if it does, there’s the cost and hassle of having the phone connected, rent
to pay, not to mention (in the majority of
cases) the inconvenience of a different
phone number when you move.
That’s why so many people have
given away the fixed phone line,
instead relying on their mobiles to
stay in touch. If and when they move,
their phone number goes with them.
And there’s no re-connection fee, line
rental, bond, whatever.
Now even that is set to change as we
enter the Wireless Broadband era.
Last month we featured Voice Over
IP, (VoIP), explaining how it could
dramatically lower your phone bills –
especially if you were on broadband.
Unwired is broadband. You are
already paying for the connection
(without time constraints) so why
not use Unwired in conjunction with
a Netphone or headset on your PC
to make ALL your “phone” calls.
Hey, this could even replace mobile
phones!
Admittedly, calls are costed by time
but if you’re not one to sit on the phone
for hours, it is a completely viable option. As we pointed out last month,
quick local calls can even cost less than
what you currently pay. Long distance
is where VoIP really starts to shine.
So there it is: a new service which
we believe will revolutionize not just
the way we surf the net but the way we
use our telecommunications systems
and infrastructure.
For more information, visit www.
unwired.com.au
SC
COMING NEXT MONTH
Satellite TV reception – the downside of Unwired
Those who remember the first
(VHF) television bandplan implemented in Australia will remember
that it was a total debacle, with
channels 3, 4 and 5 bang-smack in
the middle of the international FM
broadcast station allocation.
“It’s OK,” they said at the time.
“Australia doesn’t have any FM radio
stations. . .” Not then, we didn’t.
It’s taken the best part of fifty
years to unscramble those particular eggs.
Believe it or not, the Government
has done it again, with wireless
broadband.
Our satellite TV writer, Garry Cratt,
will tell how the powers-that-be have
managed to auction off chunks of
the international C-band Satellite TV
spectrum for data communications.
The net result is that people who
have gone to considerable expense
to set up their own C-band receiving
systems (dishes, LNBs, receivers and
so on) are now complaining long and
loud about wireless broadband.
The spread of frequencies is again
right on top of many of their favourite
satellite signals and in this case,
Goliath wipes out David every time.
“Too bad” say the authorities.
“You’re not supposed to be watching
overseas satellite television programs
anyway. . .”
In some cases, the problems can
be cured, or at least eased, as Garry
explains next month.
November 2004 13
SILICON
CHIP
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The GM Silverado/Sierra
hybrid is a full-sized pickup truck. Unlike the Toyota
Crown, it doesn’t use an
electric motor as a traction
motor or for mechanically
powering accessories
when the engine is not
running. Instead, it uses
a conventional 5.3-litre
V8 and 4-speed automatic
transmission with a 14kW,
3-phase induction AC starter/
generator sandwiched
between the transmission
and the engine. Energy
storage is by a 36V lead-acid
battery. [GM]
The New Era in Car
Electrical Systems
The first cars using the new 42V standard
are now being released. So why the move
from 12V and what are the implications for
the design of higher voltage car electrical
systems?
By JULIAN EDGAR
B
ACK IN OUR JULY 2000 issue, we
briefly looked at the way in which
vehicle electrical systems are changing. The use of high-output alternators
and 42V electrical systems were being
mooted as technical solutions to the
ever-increasing electrical power demands in cars. What’s happened since?
Well, in a few words – a lot!
Toyota in Japan currently sells a car
with a 42V electrical system, while
GM in the US is this year releasing a
42V pickup truck – and some organisations are already using pre-delivery
vehicles. New technical standards are
being developed to cover everything
from 42V battery terminal and fuse
20 Silicon Chip
design to the colour-coding of 42V wiring. Automotive component suppliers
have developed 42V alternators, starter motors, circuit breakers and other
components. Some are predicting that
by 2010 as many as half of all vehicles
will use 42V electrical systems. In 20
years, the forecasts suggest that all cars
will use this voltage.
Even more interesting is the relationship developing between “mild”
petrol/electric hybrids and 42V electrical systems. Throw in the increasing
availability of mains power in cars
(yes, that’s right – in the USA you
can now have a factory-fitted mains
power socket in your car!) and the
whole area of car electrical systems is
undergoing a change of a magnitude
never seen before.
Power-hungry cars
The trends in automotive technology can be summarised as:
• Better fuel economy
• Reduced exhaust emissions
• Improved safety
• Better comfort and convenienc
Each of these has implications for
the load placed on car electrical systems. For example, improvements in
fuel economy can be gained by applying systems such as automatic engine
stop/start capabilities, electricallyassisted acceleration from a standstill,
electric engine cooling pumps and
fans, and electric power steering and
air-conditioning.
Also being thoroughly investigated
is the electromechanical operation of
engine valves. While it could bring
about significant increases in engine
power and efficiency, this approach
looks likely to be electrically power
hungry, with estimates of up to 2.4kW
peak loads on a six-cylinder engine.
siliconchip.com.au
Table 1
•
•
•
•
•
Daimler Chrysler
Renault/Nissan
General Motors
Peugeot/Citroen
Ford
•
•
•
•
•
Fiat
BMW
Toyota
VW/Audi
Honda
Car manufacturers in North America,
Europe and Japan currently developing
42V cars
Reductions in emissions can come
from electrically heated catalytic
converters (some cars already have
these), while dynamic safety can be
improved by the use of active electric
power steering, active suspension
and high-powered electric de-icing
of glass. Finally, increasing comfort
and convenience can lead to the use
of electrically heated and cooled seats,
electrically heated steering wheels,
high-end sound systems, in-car computers, navigation systems and the
provision of mains-power sockets.
Even without including electrical
propulsion, components supplier
Delphi expects the growth in electrical
loads in cars to be 5% per year over
the next 20 years. If electric propulsion is included, that estimate rises
to 8% per year. Fig.1 shows the past
and estimated future increases in car
power demands.
The consumer acceptance of the
latest model Toyota Prius – this year
Toyota expects to sell 50,000 in the
USA alone – has given car manufacturers the confidence to start thinking
seriously about incorporating electricassist into otherwise conventional designs. These so-called “mild hybrids”
use electric assistance only in certain
conditions. For example, in a mild
hybrid, the petrol engine is turned off
whenever the vehicle is stationary. The
electric motor then helps the car accelerate as the petrol engine re-starts.
The gains in fuel economy are not as
great as in high-voltage full hybrids but
the manufacturing and development
costs are much lower.
This acceptance of mild hybrids
makes the rate of growth in electrical
power demand likely to be close to
Delphi’s 8% per year estimate.
42V systems
Prior to 1955, vehicles used 6V elecsiliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: past and estimated future increases in car power demands (note the
logarithmic vertical axis). The massive increase in electrical power loads is
seeing a move to 42V systems. [Delphi]
ACCESSORIES
BELT
STARTER
(INITIAL START)
PULLEY
MAGNETIC
CLUTCH
ENGINE
GEAR
MOTOR/GENERATOR (MG)
INVERTER
36V BATTERY
DC/DC CONVERTER
DRIVE WHEELS
12V BATTERY
ECU
CONTROL UNIT
Fig.2: the mild hybrid Toyota Crown is the first car in the world to feature
the new 42V standard. It uses a 3kW 3-phase AC synchronous motor/
generator in conjunction with a 147kW petrol engine. The transmission is
a conventional 5-speed automatic. The motor/generator, which is larger
than a conventional starter motor but not as large as the traction motor
used in a full hybrid, charges a 20Ah 36V battery via a water-cooled
inverter. [Toyota]
trical systems. However, recognition
in the US that higher ignition energy
would be required for the high compression V8s then being introduced
prompted the adoption of a higher
voltage system. In addition, the introduction of higher power headlights,
radios and higher-powered starter
motors were all showing the limitations of the 6V system. 12V systems
– using 13.8V regulation – were then
introduced, with most manufacturers
achieving the transition within two
years.
November 2004 21
STARTER
MOTOR/
GENERATOR
CONTROL
UNIT
12V BATTERY
OIL PUMP
36V BATTERY
Fig.3: in the Toyota Crown, the 12V battery is charged via a DC/DC converter
and the 36V battery from the generator inverter. Both batteries are mounted
over the rear axle of the car in the forward section of the boot. [Toyota]
36V VALVE REGULATED LEAD ACID BATTERY
INVERTER, ECU
DC-DC CONVERTER
MG
AT OIL PUMP
ELECTROMAGNETIC CLUTCH
Fig.4: the use of an electromagnetic clutch allows the Toyota’s motor/generator
(MG) to drive the accessory belt even when the engine is off. By engaging the
clutch, the motor generator can start the engine and even help propel the car.
[Toyota]
The increasing power demand of
current cars has now caused a similar
situation to develop – a higher voltage is needed. However, the situation
isn’t quite the same – there are far
more devices of vastly greater sophistication working on the current 12V
standard than there were working on
22 Silicon Chip
6V in 1955.
The new standard is termed a 42V
system. That is, battery voltage is 36V
with the bus regulated at 42V. Basing
the standard on the 42V running-car
voltage, rather than the 36V lead-acid
battery voltage, was done to cater
for future developments that might
displace lead-acid batteries and traditional charging systems.
One benefit of increasing the voltage
to 42V is a reduction in wiring gauges.
A current mid-size car has a wiring
loom that weighs 35kg or more and
contains 2km of wire, 1000 cut leads
and 300 connectors. With the potential
for loads of many kilowatts (the catalytic converter heating in the BMW
750iL requires a short-term power
of 17kW!), the current flow required
at 13.8V becomes very high indeed.
As a result, conductor sizes are large,
adding cost and weight. Increasing the
voltage reduces the current flow and
so smaller conductors can be used.
In addition to reducing conductor size, adopting a 42V standard
allows the development of powerful
combined starter/generators, more
compact and powerful electric motors,
and other actuators that are smaller,
have a lower mass and improved
performance. Table 3 shows some of
the benefits of adopting 42V systems.
Another advantage of the higher
voltage is in the field of semiconductors. The cost of semiconductor
switches, which are expected to be
used very widely in cars, depends on
the current and voltage ratings of the
device. The current-handling capability is related to the semiconductor’s
area, while the voltage rating is tied
to the device’s thickness and doping
profile. A reduction in required current capability results in a smaller chip
area, decreasing costs.
For example, an electric powersteering controller may need to handle a power of 600W. At 14V with
an assumed electronic efficiency of
85%, the switch is required to handle
50A. However, at 42V the required
current handling drops to less than
17A, reducing the cost of the powerdependent components by 60%.
But why just 42V? If reductions in
conductor and electric motor size are
the criteria, why not use 500V, say, as
does the current model Toyota Prius?
There was widespread consensus that
the new voltage standard should be
sufficiently low to ensure the personal
safety of those that come in contact
with it. During the development of the
new standard, the Society of Automotive Engineers performed an in-depth
study of the research that had been
carried out on human tolerance to electrical shocks. The society concluded
that protection against direct contact
siliconchip.com.au
Toyota Crown Running Modes
The petrol engine switches off whenever the car is
stationary. On restart, the electric motor/generator
drives the car and starts the engine.
In normal driving the petrol engine propels the vehicle.
If battery charge is low, the electric motor/generator is
used to charge the battery.
During braking or any other time that the fuel supply
to the engine is cut, the electric motor/generator
regeneratively brakes and so charges the battery.
When the vehicle is stopped, the engine is turned off and
the electric motor/generator powers the accessories such
as the air-conditioning compressor. [Toyota]
was not required if the voltage did
not exceed 65V DC, including ripple.
Subsequently, the German standards
body VDE reduced this to 60V. The
specification of 42V systems suggests
that a maximum bus voltage of 55V
is permitted during dynamic overvoltage conditions.
Table 1 shows car manufacturers
in North America, Europe and Japan
currently developing 42V cars, while
Table 2 lists the automotive component suppliers currently developing
42V components.
The first 42V cars
The first two cars featuring 42V
technology are mild hybrids that run
dual 12/42V electrical systems. The
Toyota Crown mild hybrid has been
produced in small numbers in Japan
siliconchip.com.au
since 2001 and initial deliveries of
the General Motors Silverado/Sierra
hybrid twins are occurring now, with
full sales to begin later this year.
(1). The Toyota Crown Mild Hybrid:
the Crown uses what Toyota dubs
a “Toyota Hybrid System – Mild”,
or THS-M. Fig.2 shows its layout. A
belt-driven motor/generator comprising a 3kW 3-phase AC synchronous
motor is used in conjunction with
a 147kW 3-litre in-line 6-cylinder
petrol engine. The transmission is a
conventional 5-speed automatic. The
motor/generator, which is larger than
a conventional starter motor but not
as large as the traction motor used in
a full hybrid, charges a 20Ah 36V battery via a water-cooled inverter. The
motor/generator is used to:
• restart the stopped engine (initial
starting is by a conventional 12V
starter motor).
• help drive the vehicle when moving away from a standstill.
• generate all electrical power.
• provide regenerative braking on
deceleration.
• drive engine auxiliaries when the
engine is stopped.
The 12V battery is charged via a
DC/DC converter. Both batteries are
mounted over the rear axle of the car in
the forward section of the boot (Fig.3).
The motor/generator, which is located
where a conventional belt-driven alternator normally would be, is able to
drive the accessories with the petrol
engine stopped because in this mode
a magnetic clutch is used to decouple
the accessory belt drive system from
the engine.
November 2004 23
Just some of the parts developed for the mild hybrid Toyota Crown (clockwise
from top left): the engine; 36V battery; inverter & electronic control unit; and
electric motor/generator.
Fig.4 shows an overview of the
engine bay. In stop/start urban conditions, fuel consumption is improved
by about 15%.
(2). GM Silverado/Sierra hybrid
the GM Silverado/Sierra hybrid is a
full-sized pick-up truck. Unlike the
Toyota Crown, the GM mild hybrid
does not use the electric motor as a
traction motor or for mechanically
powering accessories when the engine
is not running. It uses a conventional
5.3-litre V8 and 4-speed automatic
transmission – the design criteria
required that an existing GM engine
be used and that the transmission had
only minor modifications for its new
hybrid vehicle role. Overall driveline
length also needed to remain the same
as non-hybrid versions.
In order that these criteria could be
met, the starter/generator (GM call it
simply the ‘electric machine’ - EM) is
inserted between the engine and the
transmission, with the torque converter being reduced in diameter to create
the space. To overcome problems of
excessive heat resulting from a smaller
torque converter, the transmission
control strategy is revised to allow
Table 2
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Bosch
Motoral SPS
Aisin
Motoral AIEG
Continental Teves
Siemens VDO
Delco Remy America
Infineon
Delphi
Table 1
•• Daimler
•
Yazaki Chrysler
•• Renault/Nissan
•
Denso
•• General
Motors
•
Valeo
•• Peugeot/Citroen
JCI (Johnson Controls)•
•• Ford
•
Visteon
Fiat
BMW
Toyota
VW/Audi
Honda
• Lear
Car
manufacturers in North America,
Europe
and Japan currently developing
• Varta
42V cars
• Magneti Marelli
Some of the automotive component suppliers currently developing 42V components. Delphi,
for example, state that they can now provide a complete 42V generation, conversion,
storage, distribution and usage system.
24 Silicon Chip
earlier-lock-up of the torque converter
clutch. The EM is then used to reduce
poor driveability resulting from this
early lock-up.
The EM is a 14kW, 3-phase induction motor. The rotor is bolted to the
engine’s crankshaft and surrounds
the torque converter. This approach
allows the crankshaft’s bearings to
support the rotor.
The stator is located around the rotor and is supported by an assembly
positioned by existing dowels projecting from the rear of the engine block. It
is clamped between the transmission
and the engine. The stator is watercooled via a thermostat-controlled
feed from the engine coolant system.
Changes made to the transmission
included the use of a unique bellhousing and flex-plate and an alteration to the hydraulic valve body that
allows the transmission to drive the
engine (and so the EM) on over-run in
second and third gears. In addition, a
small electric pump is used to provide
hydraulic pressure within the transmission until the transmission pump
is rotating quickly enough to provide
normal working pressures.
The GM mild hybrid uses these
strategies to reduce fuel consumption:
• deceleration fuel cut-off much more
frequently used, with the EM smoothing the resulting torque fluctuations.
• automatic engine stop during stationary and very low speed vehicle
operations.
• lower speed torque converter lockup clutch engagement.
• regenerative braking.
A 42V electro-hydraulic power
steering pump replaces the traditional
engine-driven unit, while air conditioning requirements with the engine
stopped are met by “careful management of refrigerant capacity already
in the system prior to the stop”. The
traditional starter motor is deleted.
42V challenges
The change in such a universal and
long-standing car standard as 12V has
some major challenges – technical and
financial. Taking the latter first, why
should customers feel any urge to pay
more for a car that has a 42V electrical
system?
General Motors puts it like this: “A
42V system is only an enabler. It is
not something that consumers will
be willing to pay for directly – so it
absolutely must deliver the capabilisiliconchip.com.au
MAINS OUTLETS
General Motors see the inclusion of
110VAC power sockets in their mild
hybrid pick-up truck as a major
selling point of hybrid technology. The
circuits are protected by ground fault
detection and up to 14kW is available.
ties and features that customers desire
and value.”
The company suggests examples
of such customer-desirable features
are mains-power outlets, new entertainment systems, electrically heated
windscreens, fast heating and cooling
systems and “by-wire” chassis and
engine controls. They also suggest
the thinner wiring looms and smaller
components will provide space for
more features likely to appeal to the
consumer.
The fuel economy achieved by 42V
combined starter/generator systems
will also have immediate consumer
appeal. It’s for customer justification
reasons that GM has highlighted the
availability of mains power (there are
four outlets!) in its promotion of the
Silverado/Sierra hybrid.
General Motors delivered its first hybrid pick-up truck on May 3, 2004. The
mild hybrid uses a combined electric motor/generator and boasts 10-12%
improved fuel economy. The car is only the second to use the new 42V standard.
[GM]
12V/42V possibilities
What about cars where a 42V electrical system is introduced in conventional engine form? As with the two
hybrid cars that we’ve looked at, it’s
very likely that cars will continue to
have both 42V and 12V systems for
some time to come. In fact, it is suggested that incandescent lighting will
stay at 12V because of bulb durability
issues associated with the automotive
use of higher voltages.
Three 12V/42V architectures are
likely to be used:
• Single voltage generation and
single voltage energy storage – a 42V
alternator charges a 36V battery which
services 36V loads, with a DC/DC
converter used to charge a 12V battery
siliconchip.com.au
The GM mild hybrid control system incorporates an inverter to generate
110VAC mains power (four mains power outlets are provided on the truck),
a DC/DC converter to operate the 12V loads and an inverter that operates the
starter/generator. [GM]
that services 12V loads;
• Dual voltage generation and single voltage energy storage – a dual
14V/42V alternator charges two
separate systems, one 12V and the
other 36V;
• Dual voltage generation and dual
voltage energy storage – a dual
14V/42V alternator charges a dual
12/36V battery.
In all cases the inclusion of 42V car
systems poses challenges in controlNovember 2004 25
Table 3
Current Technology
Benefits of 42V Architecture
Electric power steering
More power, improved fuel economy
Electric brakes
Redundant power supplies
Power windows, power seats, power
hatchback lifts
Reduced size and mass of motors; more
efficient operation
Heated catalytic converter
Lower emissions; quicker light-off time
Heating, ventilation, air-conditioning
blower motors and cooling fans
Greater efficiency; smaller/lighter units;
flexible packaging
Mobile multimedia
More power available for video, mobile
phones, navigation systems, audio amplifiers, fax machines
Water pumps
Improved efficiency; longer service life
Selected engine management system
components (eg, exhaust gas recirculation valves, ignition systems, control
actuators)
Reduced size and mass; increased
performance
Fuel pumps
Reduced size and mass
Heated seats
Faster heating, more efficient operation;
increased power
The benefits to current automotive electrical technology of adopting a 42V
system. [Delphi]
ling arcing and corrosion, especially
in the presence of contaminants like
salt water. (An example? – consider
a boat trailer’s electrical system that
can be under water quite frequently!)
Another “real-world” problem is the
use of jumper leads. To prevent people
with 42V cars attempting to jump-start
12V vehicles, 42V vehicles will have
non-accessible batteries and use a
dedicated jump-starting connection
with a unique, fused connector. 42V
jumper leads will be specific to the
application and incorporate microprocessor control. One proposal sees the
use of 42V jumper-leads occurring in
the following manner:
• Connect terminations to each car or
car and boost pack.
• Units activates (wakes up) and
checks polarity – both LEDs flash.
• LED flashes red if either or both
batteries are reversed.
• Low current circuit is activated and
checks for conductivity.
• If all is OK then green LED flashes.
• Switch is pushed and internal relay
is activated – green LED on.
• Relay is opened if either battery is
disconnected – green LED flashes.
• If both batteries are below 36V or
either battery is below 18V, relay will
Super-Capacitors For 42V Systems
Super-capacitors suitable for 42V automotive systems are being developed.
These capacitors can be used to meet peak loads and then be recharged
over a period from an existing battery or at a fast rate through regenerative
braking.
A 10kJ, 42V super-capacitor has sufficient energy to operate the combined
starter/generator of the 5.7-litre V8 GM Silverado/Sierra hybrid for two
consecutive engine starts (the engine starts in 0.3–0.5 seconds). Compared
with a lead-acid battery, a combined super-capacitor-battery prolongs battery
service life with its ability to handle high recharge/discharge events typical of
a mild hybrid car.
However, at this stage super-capacitor costs remain high when compared
with traditional battery technology.
26 Silicon Chip
Suppliers have already developed a
complete range of 42V automotive
components. Here are two 42V
compatible bimetallic circuit
breakers, available in 5 - 30 amp
ratings. [First Technology]
not activate – red LED on.
Fuses also need redesigning. Testing was carried out of normal 12V
blade-type fuses on 42V and it was
discovered that when subjected to
overload, terminals could melt away
(probably through arcing) and the
plastic fuse housing was subjected to
intense heat, resulting in carbonisation
and melting. New 42V fuses use polyamide housings and feature a slightly
different shape to 12V fuses, preventing 12V/42V fuse inter-changeability.
Circuit breakers suitable for 42V operation are already available.
Wiring standards also need to be upgraded. The current proposal is that all
42V wiring is coloured amber. Because
of the potential problems of arcing, all
42V terminal connections will need to
be correctly seated and locked. More
sealed connectors will be used.
Note that not all wiring will be
reduced in conductor size – in many
cases those wires that are 0.35mm2
will remain that size even when working on 42V, as this is the minimum size
for mechanical durability.
Conclusion
While it was initially thought that
the first 42V cars would be luxury
cars with very high electrical power
loads, mild hybrids have beaten them
to the punch. In addition, a report that
Daimler Chrysler has put 42V system
development on hold appears to be a
temporary setback for that company.
However, over the next few years a
wide range of cars will appear with
12V/42V systems and as they become
common, it won’t be long before dediSC
cated 42V cars appear.
siliconchip.com.au
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12VDC CHARGER:
modules.Band width limited to
240VAC - 12VDC <at>
1.2kbs.
2300mA: (SCC12) $17
(TX434) $9
(RX434LC)$9
24VDC CHARGER:
240VAC - 24VDC <at>
POWERFUL DC MOTORS / GENERATORS:
The 200W motors are the same as used in our scooters. 1300mA: (SCC24) $17
They are very powerful for there size, 24V use, but
produce lots of torque at 12V. They start rotating at only COMING SOON
0.5VDC. These motors make great generators . When 30mW+ GREEN
driven at a low speed with a cordless drill they produced
6V open circuit, 5V <at> 5A & 4V <at> 8A; Very reasonable LASER HEADS.
Requires a constant
freight costs to most Australian capitals.
DANGER!!!
current source only,
(NEW) 100W DC MOTOR:
For experienced
typical 500mA<at>1.8V
100W output as used in our
laser users only
small scooter. 24VDC. Rated
speed: 2300 RPM Rated current:
6.0A Measures: 67mm X 97mm
LOW INTRODUCTORY PRICE $350!!!
(+ shaft) Shaft: 8mm "D" shaped end
Also coming. complete laser light show kit using these
with cir-clip groove. Weight: Approx. 1.1kg. $22 (SC100) laser heads.
2.2M
(NEW) CHARGER / DISCHARGER + 40 Ni-MH CELLS
New in original box with instructions. This unit was
designed to charge and discharge NI-CD & NI-MH mobile
phone batteries of 4.8V, 6.0V and 7.2V. Operates from
12-24V DC input. Features include processor control &
multi stage charge indicator. Includes cigarette lighter
lead, 12V / 1A DC plugpack (worth around $30) &
instructions for modifications for higher voltages. All of
this plus 10 packs of Toshiba 4 cell pack 1.2V <at> 800mAh
NI-MH Batteries. Each cell measures 10mm x 50mm
(same length as AA & same diameter as AAA batteries).
Pack size: 12.5mm x 64mm x 48mm. (ZA0100PK) $20
REDUCED PELTIER
DEVICE PRICES!!!
Dim: 40 x 40 x 4mm.
GP1 4.0A Device / D T 65° / Qmax 42W, $10
GP2 6.0A Device / D T 65° / Qmax 60W: $13 GP3 8.0A
Device / D T 65° / Qmax 75W: $16
NEW
ELECTRIC BIKE
Size: 1130 x 390
LY
N
O 00
$3
x 1000mm Brake:
hand brake, rear
wheel drum brake.
Battery capacity:
12AH, 24V.
Battery charger:
240V Motor power:
200W. Charging
period: 4-5 hours.
Speed: 20km/h.
Range: 15km.
Wheels: inflatable.
Frame: painted
steel. Weight: 21kg.
Maximum load: 100kg. Forget waiting for trains and
busses that don't come, the regulations on the NSW RTA
website indicate that they can be ridden under the same
rules as a bicycle. Come complete with batteries, lights
and charger. $300 (SC3)
More info on these and more items on our website.
ELECTRIC BIKES/SCOOTERS
SC1 (NEW) 100W
ELECTRIC SCOOTER:
This portable light weight
IAL
scooter folds up for easy
EC
carrying and storage. Ideal SP EW
N CE
Christmas gift for the kids.
I
Features variable speed
PR 94
$
control and hand lever style
brake. Material: aluminium &
steel painted with lacquer.
Brake and throttle can be
swapped from side to side. Telescopic handlebars to suit
most riders. It comes complete with mains charger and
batteries. Unlike a lot of others these have Australian
electrical approvals including C-TICK. Speed: 12km/h
Motor: 100W Battery: 2x 12V, 4.5A Range: 10-15km G.W:
10kg N.W: 8kg Size: 740 x 130 (deck) x 930mm.
www.oatleyelectronics.com Suppliers of kits and surplus electronics to hobbyists, experimenters, industry & professionals.
Orders: Ph ( 02 ) 9584 3563, Fax 9584 3561, sales<at>oatleyelectronics.com, PO Box 89 Oatley NSW 2223
OR www.oatleye.com
major credit cards accepted, Post & Pack typically $7 Prices subject to change without notice ACN 068 740 081 ABN18068 740 081
SC_OCT_04
Tired of having to switch the power to your PC’s peripherals on
and off manually, as well as switching the PC itself? Here’s a
simple way to make life easier by having the PC control the power
to its peripherals automatically via one of the USB cables. There’s
only a handful of components involved and they can be built right
inside a low-cost multi-way power distribution board.
USB
By JIM ROWE
UP
A USB-controlled Power Switch
M
ost of the first generation of
personal computers had an
‘IEC’-type 240V outlet on
the back of the box, which provided
power switched by the PC’s own power
switch.
This allowed you to control the
power to the computer’s monitor,
printer and other peripherals simply
by plugging in a power distribution
board to this outlet and plugging the
peripheral power cords into the distribution board outlets.
The power switch on the front or
side of the PC then controlled everything, which was very neat and
convenient.
Unfortunately this handy switched
power outlet disappeared from later
models, presumably because it became
harder to implement when PC manufacturers changed over to softwarecontrolled power supplies.
So, with most newer PCs, if you
wanted to control everything with a
single switch, you’ve been forced to
use a power distribution board with
its own master power switch.
There is a way to get true singleswitch operation, though, if you’re
using a recent model PC with at least
one USB port (and that means just
about any PC made in the last few
years or so).
This is to control the power fed to
the peripherals using an electronic
switch triggered by low-voltage DC
from the PC itself, via its USB port.
The electronic switch then turns the
peripherals on when the PC is turned
on, and turns them off when it’s
turned off.
Here’s the completed project, mounted (in this
case) inside a Kambrook KPB6 Powerboard.
One outlet is sacrificed in this version to
accommodate the USB-UP PC board and a label
is fitted over the unused outlet.
28 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
PLEASE NOTE:
This project involves opening and
modifying a mains powerboard.
Do not attempt this project unless
you are experienced in mains
wiring and construction. Contact
with the mains can cause severe
injury or death. Never work on a
power board with the plug in an
outlet, let alone turned on.
ALSO: While the original
powerboard is rated at 10A, 240V
(2400W) the modifications made
limit the total loading to around
700-750W, or 3A. This limit should
be more than adequate for the
intended application: switching
computer peripherals.
Forgive the mess of cables: normally
these would of course be behind or
under the desk, out of sight. But then
we wouldn’t be able to show you
the USB-UP powering the monitor,
amplified speakers, external IDE/
USB disk, printer, even a phone
charger . . .
The electronic switch needs to be
optically isolated, so there’s no risk
of 240VAC getting back into the low
voltage circuitry of the computer via
the USB port. But a high-voltage optocoupler neatly solves that problem.
In this article we’ll show you how
to build a USB-controlled electronic
power switch right inside a low-cost
power distribution board, for maximum safety and convenience.
How it works
When a PC is powered up, +5V DC
appears on pin 1 of each of its USB
port sockets. We simply tap off a few
milliamps from this convenient source
of 5V DC, to trigger a 240V Triac via
an optocoupler. The Triac therefore
switches power to your peripherals
whenever the PC is powered up.
The circuit is shown in Fig.1. A
pair of standard USB sockets, CON1
and CON2, allow the circuit to be
connected in series (ie, daisy-chained)
with any normal USB peripheral cable.
All of the USB connections go ‘straight
through’, so the added circuitry is
essentially transparent as far as USB
communication is concerned.
The connections to the USB port are
to pin 1, the +5V line, and pin 4, the
ground (0V) line. Across the two we
connect the input LED of OPTO1, an
MOC3021 opto-isolated Triac driver,
with a 220W resistor in series to limit
the current to 15mA – just sufficient
to ensure reliable triggering.
The optical isolation inside the
MOC3021 is rated to withstand voltage
‘spikes’ of up to 7.5kV peak, which
reduces the risk of flashover to a very
low level.
The 470W and 390W resistors and
the 47nF ‘X2’ rated capacitor ensure
that when OPTO1 is triggered on it in
turn switches on the BT137F Triac, at
very close to the zero crossings of every
240V AC power half-cycle.
Finally, a series combination of a
10nF capacitor and a 39W resistor is
connected directly across the Triac to
form a ‘snubber’ circuit. This protects
the Triac against spurious triggering
caused by mains spikes or switching
spikes produced by inductive loading
of some of the peripheral device power
supplies.
Construction
We have a designed a small PC board
which fits into typical 6-way distribution boards like the Jaycar/Powertech
MS4031 or the Kambrook KPB6.
The Jaycar Powerboard has the
advantage of having room inside the
case for mounting without “surgery”
and also contains spike and noise suppression; however it is more expensive
than the Kambrook Powerboard.
The only way to fit the PC board
inside the Kambrook unit is to sacri-
The alternative power board from Jaycar, the Powertech MS4031. It is more expensive than the Kambrook but does
not need any “surgery” to fit the USB-UP PC board inside (so you retain all six outlets) and also has very worthwhile
surge/spike protection built in.
siliconchip.com.au
November 2004 29
WARNING: WIRING & COMPONENTS IN THIS AREA
ARE AT 240V MAINS POTENTIAL WHEN THE
CIRCUIT IS OPERATING. CONTACT MAY BE LETHAL!
220Ω
OPTO1
MOC3021
1
390Ω
2
47nF
275VAC
X2 CLASS
4
MAINS ACTIVE IN
TRIAC1
6
λ
470Ω
10nF
275VAC
X2 CLASS
A1 BT137F
G
39Ω
A2
MAINS ACTIVE OUT
CON2
USB SKT
TYPE A
CON1
USB SKT
TYPE B
1
Vbus
4
GND
USB IN
FROM PC
2
D–
2
3
D+
3
1
4
USB OUT
TO
PERIPHERAL
BT137F
USB-up POWER SWITCH
SC
2004
A2
A1
G
Fig.1: the circuit diagram shows that the USB connectors are wired “straight through” so USB devices connected are
unaffected. The circuit steals a few milliamps from the USB to turn on a fully isolated triac and thus the powerboard.
fice one of the six outlets and mount
the board in its place. We’ll explain
how shortly.
The PC board measures 48 x 43mm
and is coded 10111041. The board
has rounded cutouts in two adjacent
corners, to allow them to be fitted
between pillars inside typical distribution boards.
Fitting the components to the PC
board shouldn’t present any problems
if you follow the overlay/wiring diagram carefully.
Just make sure you fit the two USB
sockets in the correct positions, as
they are different in terms of their pin
layout. Take care with OPTO1 and
TRIAC1, to fit them the correct way
around. The Triac body is held down
against the PC board using a 6mm M3
machine screw and nut.
Before mounting the PC board in a
typical 6-way distribution board, you
have to open up the board by removing the ‘tamper proof’ screws which
fasten the upper and lower halves
together. These screws can usually be
removed fairly easily using a matching
hex-shank bit from one of the multi-bit
sets available from many electronics
suppliers and bargain stores.
Or you can make your own “tamper
proof screw” screwdriver by filing a
small (2mm or so deep) notch in the
centre of a spare flat-bladed screwdriver of suitable size.
Once you have the board opened,
there will be a different procedure,
depending on whether you are installing the PC board into the Jaycar/
Powertech MS4031 or the Kambrook
KPB6. Let’s talk about the Jaycar distribution board first.
Jaycar MS4031 Powerboard
You can see the general arrangement
from the internal photos which were
taken inside a Jaycar MS4031 board.
There is just enough open area in the
end of these units to fit the PC board
assembly.
Making the connections is as follows: the short brown wire connecting
the ‘Active’ bus bar of the six outlet
sockets to the original RFI filter board
(at the cord entry end of the case) is
removed, and replaced with a 300mm
length of similar brown 250VAC-rated
wire running from the existing RFI
filter board down to one of the mains
MAINS ACTIVE OUT
MAINS ACTIVE IN
10111041
10nF
14011101
275V AC
470Ω
47nF
275VAC
USB IN
CON1
3
2
4
1
39Ω
390Ω
OPTO1 MOC
3021
220Ω
TRIAC1
BT137F
CON2
4
1
3
2
USB OUT
Fig 2 (left): the PC board overlay, with the PC board pattern itself shown at right.
In the centre is the completed PC board for comparison.
30 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Parts List – USB-UP
1 PC board, code 10111041,
48 x 43mm
1 6-way power distribution
board (see text)
1 Type B USB socket,
PC-mounting (CON1)
1 Type A USB socket,
PC-mounting (CON2)
3 25mm x M3 Nylon machine
screws (Kambrook) or 9mm
6G self-tappers (Jaycar)
1 6mm M3 metal screw
4 M3 nuts & lockwashers
Semiconductors
1 MOC3021 opto-isolated
Triac driver
1 BT137F 600V/8A isolated-tab
Triac
STEP-BY-STEP: Modifying the Kambrook powerboard
The Jaycar powerboard is similar but note the differences as explained in the text!
After checking (twice!) that the powerboard is not plugged in to an outlet,
remove the back and identify the active (brown) wire between the overload
switch and the active bus (left pic). Cut this wire at both ends and remove it.
Capacitors
1 47nF 275V ‘X2’ rated
metallised polypropylene
1 10nF 275V ‘X2’ rated
metallised polypropylene
Resistors (0.25W 1%)
1 470W
1 390W
1 220W
1 39W
connections on the new USB switch
board.
Then an additional 30mm length
of the same wire is used to connect
the second mains connection on the
switch board to the adjacent ‘other
end’ of the long brass strip forming the
Active contacts of the outlet sockets.
The board is mounted in the end
of the case using three 9mm long 6G
self-tapping screws, which mate with
pillars already moulded into the inside
of the upper part of the case.The only
work required on this part of the case
is to trim down a couple of these pillars to the same height as the shortest
original one, so they form a stable support trio. This can be done quite easily
using a sharp hobby knife.
The Triac body is held down against
the PC board using a 6mm M3 machine
screw and nut.
At the opposite end of the powerboard, cut the Active, Neutral and Earth bus
bar straps immediately after the fifth outlet. Remove these, then cut away the
plastic supports for the sixth outlet. Grind them down until they are nearly level
with the case body.
Cut away the appropriate slots for the
USB sockets, using the drawing below
as a guide. Fill in the empty outlet
holes with silicone sealant.
Drill the three 3mm holes in the
bottom of the case to accept the three
Nylon mounting screws.
The completed project in the top of
the Jaycar powerboard (immediate
right) and the bottom of the Kambrook
powerboard (far right). The Jaycar
version is by far the easier to make.
siliconchip.com.au
November 2004 31
UPPER HALF
ALL DIMENSIONS
IN MILLIMETRES
11.5
10
2.5
12
18
24
14.0
JAYCAR POWERBOARD
LOWER HALF
SIDE VIEW
UPPER HALF
END VIEW
ALL DIMENSIONS
IN MILLIMETRES
11.5
12
18
24
10
14.0
KAMBROOK POWERBOARD
REMOVE LIP ONLY
LOWER HALF
SIDE VIEW
END VIEW
These diagrams should assist you with the USB slot cutouts. At the top are the
cutouts for the Jaycar powerboard with the Kambrook powerboard below.
It will be necessary to make cutouts
for the USB connectors in the lower
half of the case. A slot is cut in the
end of the case half to clear the Type
A output socket, while a square hole
is cut in the side for the Type B input
socket.
I found it fairly easy to cut the slot
using jeweller’s files, but it was necessary to drill some holes in the side
to ‘start off’ the rectangular hole. The
idea is to work slowly and carefully,
so you don’t make either cutout any
larger than is necessary to clear the
two sockets.
That’s about it. After fitting the
USB switch board into the case and
making the two connections, you can
reassemble the case again using either
the original ‘tamper proof’ screws or
some ordinary self-tappers.
Kambrook 6-way powerboard
The procedure in the Kambrook
power board is different because there
is no space at the end as in the Jaycar
example.
To make space, we cut the brass
connecting strips between the fifth
and sixth 3-pin sockets and discarded
them, then removed all of the plastic
contact supports for the 3-pin socket.
The easiest way to do this is to carefully break out small pieces with a pair
of pliers, then smooth the whole lot
with a rotary grinder.
To be sure, to be sure, we filled the
now-vacant 3-pin socket holes with
some silicone sealant to make sure
nothing could be put into the holes.
The other main difference between
the Kambrook and Jaycar boards is that
we found it much easier to mount the
PC board in the base of the Kambrook
unit (rather than the top as was used
in the Jaycar board).
The reason for this is that there
is a continuous plastic barrier strip
moulded into the base of the Kambrook
unit which turned out to be 9mm high
– the same height as the mounting
spacers we used.
So there was no need to cut away
any of this barrier – the PC board sits
on top of it, held in place by the three
Nylon screws, nuts and 9mm spacers.
The Nylon screws need 3mm holes.
After you’ve drilled the three holes and
removed any burrs, push the Nylon
screws through from the outside, fit
metal spacers, then the PC board.
The same square cutouts need to be
made to give access to the USB sockets;
in the Kambrook power board matching cutouts are needed in the lip on
the bottom section.
In some ways, the cutouts are easier
on the Kambrook case top. We simply
cut down the required amount using
a hacksaw blade (see diagrams for
distances), then bent the waste back
and forth with a pair of pliers until it
snapped off. One piece snapped off
nice and cleanly but Murphy’s law
ensured that the other needed cleaning
up with a fine file.
Because the slots in the base are so
shallow, the same fine file can be used
to make them.
Once the slots are cut and the
screw-holes drilled, the board can be
installed and wired up.
A label is then fitted to the case
to block off the slots for the now
Here’s the Kambrook powerboard, completed but not yet screwed back together.
32 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
unused 3-pin socket. The original
‘tamper proof’ case assembly screws
can be re-used again if you wish,
or replaced with normal 6G selftapping screws.
Using your USB power board
Putting your USB power board to
work is easy. All that you need to do
is connect the USB ‘upstream’ socket
(on the side) to one of the USB ports
on your PC, using a standard USB
connection cable.
The power leads of your peripheral
devices then plug into the distribution board’s outlets, so their power is
controlled by it. Just bear in mind the
Finally, the powerboard closed up again, immediately before we fitted the label
over the now-unused sixth outlet. You can see the difference between the two
types of USB socket in this photo. The label is shown below left, same size.
USB-UP
USB-Controlled Mains Switch
240 Volts, 700 Watts MAX
SILICON
CHIP
750W (3A) total loading.
If you have USB leads from peripheral devices already plugged into
all of the PC’s USB ports, that’s no
problem. Simply remove one of them
from a USB port socket, and plug the
lead from the USB Power Switch into
that socket.
The lead from the peripheral can
now be plugged into the output or
‘downstream’ socket on the Power
Switch, so it’s reconnected to the same
USB port.
And Bob’s your uncle! Your peripherals will now be automatically turned
on and off with the computer.
SC
THE AMATEUR SCIENTIST
Two incredible CDs with over 1000 classic projects from the
pages of Scientific American, covering every field of science...
See the review in the October 2004 issue
(read on line at www.siliconchip.com.au)
SOL
Arguably THE most AMAZING collection of
scientific projects ever put together! This is
version 2, Science Fair Edition from the
pages of Scientific American. As well
as specific project material, the CDs
contain hints and tips by experienced
amateur scientists, details on building
science apparatus, a large database of
chemicals and so much more.
“A must for every science student,
science teacher, science lab . . .
or simply for those with an enquiring mind . . .”
ONLY
49
$
00
PLUS $7 Pack and Post
1st Shipment:OUTD
SO
Use the handy order form
Exclusive in SILICON
2nd Shipment:OULTD
on page 65 of this issue, or
SOLD
www.siliconchip.com.au call (02) 9979 5644 (bus hrs)
Australia
to:
CHIP
OUT
3rd Shipment:
4th Shipment Due This Month. Order now to avoid disappointment!
siliconchip.com.au
November 2004 33
Pt.1: By JOHN CLARKE
A charger for
deep-cycle
12V batteries
If deep cycle batteries are not properly
charged, they will never be able to deliver
their full capacity and their life will be
greatly reduced. You can’t use a generalpurpose 12V car battery charger. This 3-step
charger is specially designed for deep cycle
batteries and will charge at up to 16.6A.
D
EEP CYCLE BATTERIES are
expensive and are designed for
a long life. If properly charged and
looked after, they should last 10 years
or more. Their chemistry is quite different from that of car batteries and
if you use a charger intended for car
batteries, you will definitely not get
their maximum capacity.
34 Silicon Chip
Furthermore, if deep cycle batteries
are consistently under-charged, they
will have a short life. By compari
son, car batteries are seldom charged
above 70% of their capacity but they
are designed for “shallow” discharge.
If they are subjected to frequent deep
discharge, they will have a very short
life.
Deep cycle battery manufacturers
specify that their batteries should be
charged up to a fixed value called the
“cyclic voltage”. Once the battery is
charged to this level, the voltage must
be reduced to the “float” voltage and
then it can be left permanently connected to the charger. Continuous
charging at the cyclic voltage will
damage the battery.
The cyclic voltage is usually different for each type of lead acid
battery. For example, standard lead
acid batteries should be charged to
14.2V and floated at 13.4V, while
Gel-Cell (Sealed Lead Acid) batteries should be charged to 14.1V and
13.3V respectively. These voltages
are for a battery temperature of 20°C.
At higher temperatures, the voltages
must be reduced and the amount of
compensation is also dependent on
siliconchip.com.au
battery chemistry. Typically, lead
acid batteries require a temperature
compensation of -20mV/°C while
Gel-Cell batteries require -25mV/°C
compensation.
Clearly, a low-cost charger has no
means for setting the required cyclic
voltage and nor can it provide the
float voltage setting or temperature
compensation for these voltages.
Our new charger provides a 3-step
charge cycle comprising an initial bulk
charge, an absorption phase and then
a float charge. A separate equalisation
charge mode is available after the
absorption phase, if required. Equalisation is important for deep-cycle
batteries and should be run three to
four times a year.
Our charger includes an LCD that
shows charging mode and temperature
plus battery voltage and charging current. The display can be set to show
the battery amp-hour (Ah) setting,
battery type and whether equalisation
has been selected.
Fig.1: this graph shows the battery voltage during charging. There are
three steps to the charging cycle: an initial bulk charge, an absorption
phase and then a float charge. An optional equalisation charge phase is
also available for deep-cycle batteries.
Battery capacity
A charger must not supply too much
charging current to the battery. The
optimal charging current is related to
the capacity of the battery and its internal chemistry. Our charger sets the
initial charge to 25% of the battery’s
amp-hour (Ah) capacity. For example,
for a 40Ah battery, the initial charging
current will be 10A. For higher capacity batteries, the charging current will
be limited to 16.6A, the maximum that
the charger can deliver.
During the initial charging phase,
the display shows BULK on the top
line, while the second line shows
the temperature, voltage and current.
For example, the display might show
26 Deg C, 14.2V and 15.0A. The °C
reading is measured by an external
temperature probe, normally placed
on the battery case. The voltage and
current readings are the battery terminal voltage and the charging current,
respectively.
During bulk charge, battery voltage will gradually rise from an initial
12V (or whatever the initial no-load
voltage is) towards the cyclic voltage.
The battery voltage is continuously
monitored and the charger detects
when it reaches the cyclic voltage
threshold. The cyclic voltage is the
value selected for the particular battery
type and is compensated with respect
to temperature.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.2: the battery current during charging. The charging current is
maintained at 25% of Ah during the bulk charge and then tapers off
during the absorption phase. It is then fixed at 5% of Ah during the
(optional) equalisation process. When the battery reaches the float
voltage, a small charging current maintains it at this level.
When the battery reaches the cyclic
voltage, the charger switches over to
the absorption phase. This is shown as
ABSORPTION on the display, while
the second line continues to show
temperature, voltage and current.
During this phase, the cyclic voltage
is maintained by adjusting the current.
The initial stages of the absorption
phase maintain the charging current at
a similar value to that during the bulk
charge. However, as time goes on, the
current will be reduced so as to maintain the constant cyclic voltage across
the battery. This reduction in current is
an indication of battery charge so that
when the current falls to around 2% of
charge, the battery can be considered
to be around 90% charged.
At this point, the charger switches
to float or equalisation.
Equalisation sets the current to 5%
of the battery Ah and charges for an-
other three hours. Equalisation breaks
down sulphation on the plates and
thus extends the life of the battery. It
also makes sure that each cell within
the battery is fully charged, to equalise
the cells.
During this phase, the display shows
EQUALISATION and also shows the
temperature, voltage and current. The
battery voltage is likely to rise above
16V during this phase and this will
cause the display to show --.-V. The
maximum battery voltage is restricted
to the setting of the over-voltage limit.
Equalisation should be run only a few
times per year since it will reduce battery capacity if used too often.
Finally, the charger switches to float
and the display shows FLOAT. This
takes place at a lower voltage to that of
the absorption phase and is temperature compensated. The battery is then
left connected to the charger to further
November 2004 35
Main Features
• Suitable for 12V lead acid bat•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
teries
LCD shows charging phase and
settings
Temperature, voltage and current metering
3-step charging
Optional equalisation phase
Battery temperature compensation
16.6A charge capacity
Initial trickle charge when battery voltage is low
4 preset battery chemistry
settings
2 adjustable specific battery
settings (can be set for 6V
batteries)
Correction for voltage drop
across battery leads
Wide battery capacity range
(4-250Ah) in 18 steps
increase the charge by a few percent
and also to prevent self-discharge. The
entire charging process is shown in the
accompanying graphs (Fig.1 & Fig.2).
Fig.1 shows the battery voltage during charging while Fig.2 shows the
battery current. As shown in Fig.2, the
charging current is maintained at 25%
of Ah during the bulk charge and then
tapers off during the absorption phase.
It is then fixed at 5% of Ah during the
(optional) equalisation process.
The current subsequently normally
drops to near zero immediately after
absorption (or equalisation) and then
the battery drops to its float voltage
level. This may take some considerable
time. When the battery reaches the
float voltage, a small charging current
maintains it at this level.
Note that Gel-Cell (SLA) and AGM
batteries can accept a higher charge
rate than the 25% of Ah delivered by
the charger. To achieve this, the Ah
setting on the charger can be increased
to a value that is about 1.6 times the
actual Ah of the battery.
For example, for a 40Ah battery
you can use the 60Ah setting. This
will increase the current to about
40% of Ah during bulk charge. In addition, the point at which the charger
switches from the absorption phase to
36 Silicon Chip
float charge will increase by the same
proportion – ie, from 2% to about 3%
– but should be of no consequence.
The equalisation current will also
be increased by a factor of 1.6. As a
result, if equalisation is selected, the
Ah reading should be set to the correct value.
Note that there is no point in increasing the Ah setting for batteries
that are above 40Ah in capacity because the charger can only deliver a
maximum of 16.6A, as noted above.
Safeguards
There are various safeguards incorporated into the charger to prevent
possible damage to the battery. First,
at the beginning of bulk charge, the
battery voltage is checked to see if it
is above 10.5V. If it is below 10.5V, the
charging current is limited to 2% of
the selected Ah value, until it rises to
a level where it is safe to apply 25% of
Ah current. Note that there is a facility
to charge a 6V battery and the equivalent safety threshold is then 5.2V.
Second, the duration of the absorption phase is not just set by a timer,
as in some commercial designs. A
timer on its own would not prevent
the absorption phase re-running for
the duration again should the battery
be recharged before it has been discharged. Excessive recharging at the
cyclic voltage will cause grid corrosion in the battery, leading to reduced
battery life.
So as well as timeout, our charger
incorporates a low current detection
set at 2% of the battery Ah, at which
point float charge is initiated. This
feature means that if the battery is
recharged before it is discharged, the
bulk charge and absorption phase will
be short and float charge will happen
almost immediately.
In addition, equalisation will not
occur unless it is selected manually. As
a further precaution, if the battery temperature rises above 40°C, equalisation
will not occur after the absorption
phase, even if it is selected. Similarly,
if the battery temperature rises above
40°C during equalisation, the charger
will switch over to float mode.
Finally, if the battery voltage rises
above the over-voltage setting, the
charger will switch off and show BATTERY ? on the display.
User settings
When the charger is switched on,
the display prompts the user to select
the battery settings: Ah, battery type
and whether equalisation is required.
Selecting Ah (battery capacity) sets
the correct charge rate. The display
shows BATTERY AMP HOUR on the
first line and <200Ah>, for example,
on the second line. At this stage, the
charger is not delivering current and
the desired battery Ah is set using the
“<” and “>” switches.
The second battery setting is the
battery type and should also be selected or checked by pressing the
set switch again. The display now
shows BATTERY TYPE on the first
line and <LEAD ACID>, for example,
on the second line. The battery type
can be selected using the “<” and “>”
switches to change the settings. For
example, the Gel-Cell, AGM, Calcium/
Lead, Specific #1 or Specific #2 batteries could also be selected.
The third battery setting is for
equalisation. Pressing the set switch
will have the display show EQUALISATION on the first line and <OFF>
on the second line. Pressing either the
“<” or “>” switch will change this to
<ON>. Equalisation will then occur
after the absorption phase.
Charging will not begin until the
start switch is pressed. If the battery
is not connected, the charger will not
place any voltage on the battery clips.
This prevents any sparking at the terminals when connecting the battery
while the charger is switched on.
Note that after charging has started,
the switches become locked so that the
settings cannot be changed. This feature will prevent any tampering with
the settings during charging. The set
switch will only operate if it is pressed
before 25% of Ah current is reached. If
the switch is pressed during this time,
charging will cease. Charging can then
be restarted with the start switch.
A jumper can be removed from
within the charger for automatic starting when power is applied. Automatic
starting is a useful feature in the event
that the charger is only ever used on
one particular battery. Should the battery settings require changing, the set
switch can be pressed as soon as power
is applied to bring up the battery settings on the display. Again, this will
prevent charging until the start switch
is pressed.
Another jumper must be removed
from within the charger in order make
changes to the Specific #1 and Specific
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Fig.3: the block diagram of the charger. The power transformer feeds
18VAC to bridge rectifier BR1 and the resulting unfiltered DC is fed
via a power controller circuit to the battery via fuse F2. The power
controller is controlled by a PIC microcontroller (IC5), in conjunction
with IC3, IC4 and IC1b.
#2 battery parameters. This prevents
tampering with the parameters.
Should the battery clips be removed from the battery terminals
during bulk charging, the charger
will either go to the absorption
phase or charging will stop and
the display will show BATTERY ?.
The charger will then need to be
switched off and on again using the
mains switch to initiate the original
charging phase.
Fail-safe protection has been incorporated for battery temperature compensation. If the temperature probe
is not connected or has gone open
circuit, then the battery temperature
is assumed to be 40°C. This reduces
the cyclic and float voltages to prevent
damage to the battery, even in high
ambient temperatures. The display
also shows two dashes (--) in place of
the temperature reading, to indicate a
fault in the temperature reading.
Finally, the circuit is protected
against reverse battery connection by
a 20A fuse.
Charger protection
A 3A slow-blow fuse protects
against failures in the mains transformer and the charger circuit, while
the abovementioned 20A fuse protects
against output short circuits. Fan cooling for the heatsink is provided, with
siliconchip.com.au
a thermostat cutting in and switching
the fan on when the temperature rises
above 50°C. If this cooling system fails,
a second thermal cutout set at 70°C
shuts down the charger.
Over-voltage and over-current limiting are also provided, via the circuit
itself and via software control. The
software is arranged to switch off the
charger if the output goes above 16V
during normal charging (except during equalisation) or the charging current rises above 20A. An over-current
fault will cause the display to show
<OFF>.
The over-voltage and over-current
thresholds are set using trimpots, to
17V and 18A respectively.
Voltage sensing
When charging a battery, it can be
difficult to obtain an accurate reading
of the voltage right at the battery terminals. This is because there will be
a voltage drop along the leads due to
the current flow. Some battery chargers
overcome this problem with separate
voltage sensing leads but unless the
leads are moulded together, they can
be a nuisance and become tangled.
Reserve Capacity
Some battery manufacturers use the
term reserve capacity (RC) to specify
battery capacity and this is distinct
from the more readily understood
amp-hour (Ah) rating of the battery.
The two specifications are not directly
interchangeable.
The Ah capacity refers to the current
that can be supplied over time (in hours)
and is usually specified over a 20-hour
period. So a 100Ah battery should supply 5A for 20 hours, by which time the
battery voltage will be down to 10.5V.
At higher currents, the capacity will
be less than 100Ah due to increased
losses within the battery.
Reserve capacity (RC) is specified in
minutes. It specifies how many minutes
the fully-charged battery can deliver
25A before the voltage drops to 10.5V.
For example, a battery with an RC of
90 will supply 25A for 90 minutes (1.5
hours). This can be converted to Ah
by multiplying RC (in this case 90) by
the current (25A) and then dividing by
60 to convert from minutes to hours.
Thus a battery with an RC of 90 has a
capacity of 37.5Ah. In practice, the Ah
capacity would be considerably higher
if measured at the 20-hour rate.
November 2004 37
38 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.4: the power section of the 3-Step Battery Charger. The output from the bridge rectifier (BR1) supplies the power controller which consists
of transistors Q1-Q5. This circuit is controlled by op amp IC1b, in turn controlled by IC2a, IC2b and microcontroller IC5 (see Fig.5).
For our battery charger, we use a
pseudo remote sensing technique to do
away with the need to have separate
sensing leads. This method calculates
the voltage drop produced by the
charging current and subtracts this
from the voltage measured inside the
charger (it assumes a certain resistance
in the battery leads and the current
sensing resistor). The result is a very
close approximation of the true voltage
at the battery terminals.
Specific battery parameters
As mentioned, the Specific #1 and
Specific #2 battery selections can
be adjusted to suit particular battery types. The parameters that can
be altered are the cyclic voltage, the
float voltage and the temperature
compensation. The cyclic voltage and
float voltages can be obtained from the
manufacturer and must be specified at
20°C (68°F).
In order to change these parameters,
jumper JP2 must be removed from inside the charger. When this is done and
power is applied, the charger function
will be off and the display will show
SPECIFIC #1 on the first line and then
14.3V CYCLIC 20 Deg C on the second
line. This is the initial cyclic voltage
set for the Specific #1 battery at 20°C.
You can then change the cyclic voltage using the “<” and “>” switches in
100mV steps over a range from 0.0V to
15.7V. Note that this range also allows
charging a 6V battery.
Pressing the set switch will cause
the display to show the float voltage
for the Specific #1 battery type. This
will initially be 13.3V and can be set
in 100mV steps over a range of 0.0V
to 15.7V.
Pressing the set switch again will
show the temperature compensation
value for the Specific #1 battery. Initially, the display will show -36mV/
Deg C. This can be changed in 1mV
steps from 0mV/°C to -63mV/°C
using the “<” and “>” switches.
Pressing the set switch again will
show the cyclic and float voltages and
the temperature compensation value
for the Specific #2 battery. Adjusting
these is the same as changing the Specific #1 settings. When adjustments are
complete, JP2 can be replaced inside
the charger for normal operation.
Block diagram
Fig.3 shows the block diagram of the
charger. The power transformer feeds
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Temperature Compensation
The temperature compensation
required by manufacturers is usually
shown as a graph of voltage versus
temperature. You need to convert this
to mV/°C. To do this, take the difference between the voltages at two different temperatures and divide by the
temperature difference.
For example, a battery graph may
show the cyclic voltage at -10°C to
be 15V and at 40°C it may 14.2V. So
(14.2 - 15)/50 is -16mV/°C.
Some graphs of batteries show the
18VAC to bridge rectifier BR1 and the
resulting unfiltered DC is fed via a
power controller to the battery via fuse
F2. Should the battery be connected
the wrong way around (reverse polarity), bridge rectifier BR2 will conduct
and blow the 20A fuse (F2).
The power controller section is itself
controlled by a PIC microcontroller
(IC5), in conjunction with IC3, IC4
and IC1.
Circuit description
The circuit for the 3-Step Battery
Charger is split into two sections –
Fig.4 (Power) and Fig.5 (Control).
This is a linear design rather than
switchmode. We opted for this approach in order to use more readily
available components and to simplify
construction, without the need for specialised high-frequency transformer
assemblies, coils and high-frequency
capacitors.
A linear circuit is not as efficient as
a switchmode design but it is easier to
build and is more rugged. Also, much
of the heat generated by the charger is
due to losses in the main bridge rectifier and this would be much the same,
regardless of whether we had used a
switchmode or a linear design.
Looking at Fig.4 (Power) first, the
power transformer is a 300VA toroidal
type feeding 18VAC to the bridge rectifier which then supplies the power
controller which comprises transistors
Q1-Q5, connected as a compound
emitter follower. Q1 is a power Darlington and it drives the commoned
bases of four TIP3055 NPN power
transistors (Q2-Q5). These power transistors each have 0.1Ω emitter resistors
to help equalise the load current.
float temperature compensation to be
slightly different to the cyclic compensation. In this case, the compensation
will need to be a compromise between
the two values.
Note that it may be possible to
obtain a better value, that is closer to
the requirements for both voltages, if
the graph is interpreted over a smaller
temperature range, consistent with
the temperature conditions under
which you would expect to be using
the charger.
In operation, the emitters of transistors Q2-Q5 “follow” the voltage
applied to the base of Q1 (hence the
term “compound emitter follower”).
Adjusting the base voltage on Q1
controls charging so that the higher
the voltage on Q1’s base, the more
the power transistors conduct and the
greater the current into the battery.
The 220nF capacitor between the base
and collector of Q1 prevents bursts of
oscillation that would otherwise occur
as the transistors begin to conduct on
each cycle of the pulsed DC voltage
from the bridge rectifier.
Op amp IC1b supplies the base current to Q1 via a 3.3kΩ limiting resistor. This amplifier has a gain of 6.6
to multiply the control voltage range
at pin 5 from 0-5V to 0-33V. The 30V
supply to IC1b and its limited output
swing does restrict the range to more
like 0-28V but this is more than enough
to fully drive the output transistors.
The 1µF capacitor across the 5.6kΩ
feedback resistor provides rolloff
above 28Hz to prevent op amp IC1b
from oscillating.
A 70°C thermostatic switch, TH2,
provides over-temperature protection. This is mounted on the main
heatsink and when it closes (when the
temperature exceeds 70°C), it shunts
base drive from IC1b to ground and
this stops the charger from supplying
current to the battery.
Note that IC1b’s output is prevented
from being directly shorted by a 3.3kΩ
current limiting resistor.
Current monitoring
The charging current flow is measured by amplifying the voltage produced across a 0.005Ω resistor (R1)
November 2004 39
40 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.5: the control section is based on PIC microcontroller IC5. It works in conjunction with IC3, a 4051 analog 1-of-8 selector which monitors
the battery voltage, current and temperature (via Sensor 1). IC4 converts the selected analog data from IC3 into 8-bit serial data which is
then processed by the microcontroller. The microcontroller produces the control signal for IC1b, drives the LCD module and processes the
inputs from switches S1-S4.
using IC1a which has a gain of 44.
Filtering is included at the input and
across the feedback path for IC1a, to
convert the pulsating charge current
to an average value. Hence, the 10μF
capacitor at pin 3 filters the current by
rolling off signal above 16Hz, while
the 10μF capacitor across the 43kΩ
feedback resistor rolls off frequencies
above 0.37Hz.
IC1a’s output is applied to pin 2 of
the over-current comparator, IC2a, via
a voltage divider comprising two 22kΩ
resistors and a 100µF filter capacitor.
The non-inverting input, pin 3, is connected to trimpot VR2. VR2 is adjusted
so that IC2a’s output goes low when
the charge current goes above 18A.
When IC2a’s output goes low, it
pulls pin 5 of IC1b low. This causes
pin 7 of IC1b to go low, removing the
drive to Q1 and to the battery.
Over-voltage protection
The battery voltage is monitored
at point A on the circuit – ie, at the
junction of the four 0.1Ω resistors (for
Q2-Q5) – and fed via a voltage divider
to pin 6 of comparator IC2b. This is
compared to a reference voltage on pin
5, from the wiper of trimpot VR1. This
is set so that IC2b’s output goes low
when the battery voltage goes above
17V. The low output of IC2b will shut
down the drive to Q1, as before.
Note that IC2a and IC2b are comparators with open-collector outputs.
When their outputs are off, they do
not affect the drive to pin 5 of IC1b.
Note also that when the output of
IC2a or IC2b goes low to stop the drive
to Q1 (via IC1b), the over-current or
over-voltage condition will cease. As a
result, the relevant comparator output
will go open circuit again to restore
the drive to Q1’s base. If the fault still
exists, drive will again be removed
and so this cycle will continue – ie,
the charger will cycle on and off at a
slow rate.
Zener diode ZD3 provides a 5.1V
reference supply for trimpots VR1 and
VR2 and this is further reduced by a
3.3kΩ resistor so that each trimpot has
a nominal 0-3V range.
DC supply rails
The 25V supply for IC2 and the fan
is derived from the rectified output of
BR1 via diode D1. This rail is filtered
using a 2200µF 50V capacitor.
Diodes D2 and D3 form a voltage
doubler which is fed from the AC input
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Specifications
Bulk Charge: constant current charge at 25% of Ah.
Absorption Phase: constant voltage charge at cyclic voltage until current
drops to 2% of Ah or timeout of 2.5 hours (which ever comes first).
Float Charge: constant voltage charge at float voltage.
Equalisation: optional after absorption phase. Constant current at 5% of Ah
for three hours. Equalisation switched off if temperature rises above 40°C.
Battery Ah Settings: 4, 8, 12, 16, 22, 24, 30, 40, 60, 80, 90, 100, 125,
150, 175, 200, 225 & 250Ah.
Battery Type: Lead Acid, Gel-Cell (Sealed Lead Acid or SLA), AGM (Absorbed
Glass Mat) and Calcium Lead, plus adjustable settings with Specific #1 and
Specific #2 battery selection.
Lead Acid Parameters <at> 20°C: cyclic 14.2V, float 13.4V, compensation
-20mV/°C.
Gel-Cell Parameters <at> 20°C: cyclic 14.1V, float 13.3V, compensation
-25mV/°C.
AGM Parameters <at> 20°C: cyclic 14.4V, float 13.3V, compensation
-36mV °C.
Calcium/Lead Parameters <at> 20°C: cyclic 15.0V, float 13.8V, compensation -20mV/°C.
Adjustable parameters (Specific #1 and #2): cyclic 0.0V to 15.7V in
100mV steps, float 0.0V to 15.7V in 100mV steps, compensation 0mV/°C
to -63mV/°C in 1mV steps (changed with JP2 out).
Low Battery Voltage Detection: 10.5V for 12V battery (5.2V for 6V battery).
Low Battery Charge Current: 2% of Ah.
Temperature Compensation: operates from -10°C to 99°C (voltage fixed at
-10°C setting for temperatures below this).
Open Circuit Temperature Probe Default: compensates assuming 40°C.
Display shows (--).
Temperature Measurement: display shows from –9°C to 99°C in 2°C steps.
Temperatures below –9°C show as a LO. Temperatures above 99°C shown
as (--). Display refreshes reading every 0.2 seconds.
Voltage Measurement: from 0-16.0V with 100mV resolution. Display shows
--.-V above 16V. Display refreshed every 0.2 seconds.
Current Measurement: from 0-25.5A with 100mA resolution. Display readings refreshed approximately every 1 second.
Fan Cut In Temperature: 50°C.
Fan Cut Out Temperature: ~40°C.
Over-Temperature Cutout: 70°C.
Hardware Over-Voltage Limit: adjustable.
Hardware Over-Current Limit: adjustable.
Software Monitored Over Voltage Limit: 16V at charger output (not operational during equalisation).
Software Monitored Over Current Limit: 20A.
November 2004 41
This is the view inside the prototype. Most of the parts are mounted on three
PC boards: a power board, a control board and a display board which mounts
vertically behind the front panel. The assembly details are in Pt.2, next month.
of the bridge rectifier via a 22µF capacitor. The voltage across the following
220µF capacitor is then limited to 30V
by series-connected zener diodes ZD1
& ZD2 and a 10Ω resistor.
Note that the two zener diodes are
rated at 5W because the peak current
through them is too high for 1W devices. The 10Ω resistor in series with
the zener diodes is included to reduce
the peak current.
Why use a zener diode shunt rather
than an adjustable 3-terminal regulator
(such as an LM317) to obtain the 30V
rail? Because the wide range of transformer loading means that an LM317
could not do the job.
By the way, the reason we need a
30V supply for IC1 is so that IC1b can
drive the base of Q1 above the 25V
peak voltage of the unfiltered DC supplying the power transistors.
The heatsink cooling fan is powered
42 Silicon Chip
from the 25V supply rail via a 56Ω 5W
resistor when ever the 50°C thermostat
switch is closed. The 56Ω resistor reduces the fan supply to around 12V
when the fan is running.
Control circuit
Fig.5 shows the control circuit
which comprises IC3, IC4, PIC microcontroller IC5, the LCD module and
associated components. IC3 is a 4051
one-of-eight analog switch. In our
circuit, we use only three of the eight
inputs. One selects the battery voltage
at pin 2, the second selects the current
signal at pin 1 and the third takes the
temperature signal at pin 13.
The voltage input comes from the
positive battery terminal via 22kΩ and
10kΩ resistors which divide by a factor of 0.31. Voltages above 5V at pin 2
are clamped using D4, while voltages
below 0V are clamped using D5. The
latter is required to protect IC3 against
reverse battery connection.
The current signal comes directly
from the output of IC1a (see Fig.4) via
a 10kΩ series resistor. Battery temperature is measured using an LM335
(Sensor 1). This provides an output
that is a nominal 10mV/°C. The offset
voltage at 0°C is typically 2.73V. Trimpot VR3 divides the Sensor 1 output
so the voltage can be set to vary by
9.8mV/°C. This adjustment is required
to cater for individual variations in the
output of these devices.
The temperature, voltage and current signals to IC3 are selected by
using the B and C inputs at pins 10
and 9, respectively. When the B and
C inputs are set to 0V, the temperature
signal (pin 13) is selected. When B is
low and C is high, the current signal
(pin 1) is selected and when B and C
are both high, the voltage signal (pin
2) is selected.
The selected signal is fed to IC4, an
8-bit analog-to-digital (A/D) converter.
IC4 produces serial data at its pin 6
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output and this is fed to the RA4 input
(pin 3) of PIC microcontroller IC5. The
RA2 and RA3 lines from IC5 drive the
clock and chip select inputs on IC4.
IC5’s internal oscillator runs at
4MHz. This gives a timebase accuracy
of about 2%, which is more than adequate for this application.
LCD & pushbuttons
The LCD module is driven from the
RB4-RB7 outputs of IC5, while control
over the display is provided by driving
the Register Select (RS) and Enable (E)
inputs at pins 4 and 6 respectively.
The RB4-RB7 data lines also connect
to switches S1-S4. When a switch is
closed and its data line is high, it can
pull the RA6 input (pin 15) high.
Diodes D7-D9 are included to prevent the data lines from being shorted
should more than one switch be
pressed at a time.
The RB0 and RB2 inputs provide
the jumper options (JP1 and JP2). Normally, these inputs are pulled high via
internal pullup resistors and pulled
low if the relevant jumper is installed.
JP1 is removed for auto start and JP2
is removed for the parameter change.
In response to its stored software,
IC5 produces a pulse-width modulation (PWM) output at pin 9. This
swings between 0V and 5V at about
4kHz, with a duty cycle ranging from
100% (fully high at 5V) through to zero
(fully low at 0V).
By filtering this waveform, the
resulting output will be a DC voltage
which can be varied in steps of around
5mV (ie, 10-bit resolution). The filtering is provided by a 10kΩ resistor
and 1µF capacitor and this becomes
the control voltage fed to IC1b on the
power circuit of Fig.4.
The control circuit runs from a
5V supply derived from an LM317
adjustable regulator (REG1). It is fed
from the +25V rail via a 330Ω resistor which reduces power dissipation
in the regulator. Trimpot VR4 is set
so that the output voltage is as close
to 5V as possible. This calibrates the
voltage and current readings measured
by IC3.
The chassis and circuit ground are
connected together via a 470nF capacitor, included to shunt any noise signals
present on the supply.
Next month, we will give the full
parts list, assembly details and set-up
SC
procedure.
Looking For More Info?
For more information on battery
charging, readers can refer to
“Motorhome Electrics – And Caravans Too!” by Collyn Rivers. We
reviewed this in the February 2003
issue of SILICON CHIP.
In this book, Collyn spells out
the desirable charging methods for
lead-acid batteries. Specifically, he
makes note of the requirement to
compensate charging with respect
to temperature and with respect to
battery chemistry.
In Australia, temperature compensation is a mandatory requirement
for a quality charger. This is because
we have a wide range of temperatures across the continent and into
Tasmania. Typically, temperatures
can extend from the minus figures
through to well above 40°C in the
shade.
The book is available from the
Caravan & Motorhome Books, PO
Box 3634, Broome, WA 6725.
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BRISBANE
22 Campbell Street
Bowen Hills
QLD 4006
Telephone: (07) 3252 7466
Facsimile: (07) 3252 2862
SOUTHPORT
11 Brickworks Cntr,
Warehouse Rd
Southport QLD 4215
Telephone: (07) 5531 2599
Facsimile: (07) 5571 0543
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Homebush
NSW 2140
Telephone: (02) 9704 9000
Facsimile: (02) 9746 1197
November 2004 43
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
It’s time I bought a new TV set!
It’s really time I got myself a new TV set and
threw the old one out. Then again, maybe
not – my rare 9-year-old set recently came
in handy when an identical set came in for
repair.
My own personal TV at present is
a 1995 Philips 32PW977/75 (GFL2.2A
chassis) which is a fully-featured
widescreen set. The reason I own it is
that it has an annoying intermittent
contrast level problem which over
the years successive technicians – including myself – have failed to repair.
However, the general consensus is that
it’s the picture tube that’s causing the
problem and this is far too expensive
to replace.
Most of the time though, the picture
is perfectly acceptable to watch and it
44 Silicon Chip
only plays up occasionally.
Recently, I had an identical set come
in for repair. This was somewhat surprising, as this fully-imported model is
as expensive as it is rare. The fault with
this particular set was no picture.
When removing the back from this
set, you must remember to unscrew
and remove the sub-woofer cover first.
That’s because the connecting lead is
rather short and you can otherwise end
up ripping it out of the PC board.
This set, commensurate with its
features, has a lot of electronics on
board. This meant that the easiest way
for me to locate the problem area was
to initially try swapping modules with
my own set.
I did this and it didn’t take long to
trace the problem to the CRT socket
board (R). With my board in this set,
the picture was excellent and the intermittent contrast fault did not move
over from my set.
An examination of the faulty board
soon revealed that R3273 (10Ω) which
supplies the 200V rail was open circuit,
as was R3272 which supplies the 12V
rail. The circuit shows the latter to be
6.8Ω but the set had an 18Ω unit fitted
(by the factory) in this location.
The reason these two fusible resistors had failed was because all three
TDA6111AQ/N3 output ICs (7230,
7240 & 7250) were short circuit to
ground. I ordered and replaced all
these parts and then fitted the board
to my own set to test it.
Surprisingly, the intermittent low
contrast problem I previously had
was now suddenly permanently
low contrast. What’s more, when I
swapped the boards over, my set was
still permanently suffering from low
contrast.
My next step was to check the
BC-INFO (Beam Current) line. This
measured 5.2V, which is roughly what
it is supposed to be. However, the EHTINFO line (beam limiting from
the flyback transformer)
measured 0V and a
quick check with
an ohmmeter indicated that this line
was short circuited
directly to the chassis ground.
Now this line also
goes directly to the
CRT aquadag and disconnecting the lead
(plug R35) from this to
the CRT socket indicated
that the short was actually between
the tube and chassis. As a result, I disconnected all the earth leads between
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Items Covered This Month
•
•
•
•
•
•
Philips 32PW977/75 TV set
(GFL2.2A chassis)
JVC video cassette recorder
JVC AV-28S4E TV set (MXIV
chassis)
Telefunken SDX290
Hitachi HMV-8300 Stereo
Amplifier
NAD 317 Stereo Amplifier
the chassis and the picture tube (in fact,
all the leads I could see) but the meter
still showed a short circuit between
the aquadag and the chassis.
How could this be? To the naked eye,
the tube looked completely isolated
from the TV chassis but the meter was
telling me the opposite. As a result,
I cast my net wider and examined
the CRT mounting brackets and the
loudspeakers but nothing immediately
caught my eye.
I then went through the motions of
completely isolating everything from
the front shell of the cabinet and the
TV chassis. I unplugged the righthand
set of loudspeakers while watching the
meter – no change. However, when I
unplugged the lefthand set of speakers,
the short suddenly cleared.
So how was this possible if there
is absolutely no connection between
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the tube and the speakers? Well, of
course there had to be. The set has two
elliptical speakers on each side plus a
tweeter and the tweeters are connected
via a 4.7µF 50V bipolar capacitor. And
as I subsequently discovered, the lefthand side capacitor was tucked down
hard between the speakers and the
tube, with one of its leads touching
the rim-band of the tube.
Moving the capacitor just a fraction
was enough to clear the short (the
impedance of the tweeter is only 6Ω
to ground), which accounted for why
it was intermittent. Reconnecting
everything brought the EHT-INFO line
up to 9V for zero beam current (black)
and 5V for 3mA (peak white). And the
contrast was now strong and steady.
Just why the other set destroyed its
video amplifier IC is hard to determine,
as the picture tube measured perfectly
(no intermittent shorts) with the analyser. One possible reason is that the
SCAVEM board shorted against the
CRT socket panel. This board is held
on with a plastic band around the CRT
neck and this band fractures with age
and heat.
The slow JVC video
An old friend of mine brought in his
beloved JVC video complaining about
intermittent no or slow rewind. Having
done many of these over the years, I
said I could fix it for him.
The problem is caused by dried-up
grease in the idler clutch assembly
and the fix is easy: remove the old
grease, clean the area, re-lubricate the
assembly and reassemble everything.
To do this, I first had to remove the
deck, which isn’t difficult, after which
November 2004 45
Serviceman’s Log – continued
the job was quite straightforward apart
from reconnecting a couple of the
connectors.
However, I was amazed to find when
I switched it on afterwards that there
was no display. This was because
when I had re-inserted one of the worn
flat ribbon cables, one of the conductors had bent back and shorted out.
That was easily fixed but then I
noticed that the playback picture was
snowy, as though the heads were faulty
or worn. I was sure I hadn’t damaged
the heads in any way but the envelope
waveform on the CRO was awful – so I
quickly replaced the heads with those
from another machine but the problem
remained the same.
Feeling somewhat miffed by this, I
pulled the deck out again and examined the head assembly. And when
I removed the head amplifier plug,
I noticed that not all the pins were
level – one was sitting 1mm lower
than the others.
Examining this more closely, I found
it had been pushed through the board
and broken the solder land to the
copper (the solder is all that holds it
46 Silicon Chip
in place). I resoldered it and pushed
the pin through before using hot melt
glue to keep it in place. I then reassembled everything and this time it
all worked fine.
What I should have done in the first
place was sell my mate a new video.
I never learn.
The old JVC set
I was called out to a 1994 JVC AV28S4E (MXIV chassis), its owner complaining of intermittent (at first) and
now no vertical deflection (horizontal
white line) before the set went dead.
Now I had never seen this model
before but fortunately managed to
bludge a circuit off a mate of mine
before calling around. I wouldn’t
normally have agreed to a house call
on a 10-year-old set such as this but
logistics and hunger forced me to
have a go.
The only advice my friend (a JVC
technician) gave me when he lent
me the circuit was watch for the on/
off switch shaft which, apparently, is
really easy to break when the set is in
the service position.
It didn’t take long to work out why
the set was dead. Q521 (BU508AFI)
– the line output transistor – was
short circuit and of course I didn’t
have one with me. I could go back
to the workshop and get one but in
the end I decided to take the chassis
with me.
I ordered and fitted the correct transistor when it arrived but I had no idea
as to why the original transistor had
failed. Nor did I know what was causing the vertical deflection problem.
Examining the chassis, I noticed
that C543 – a 2200µF 16V electrolytic
capacitor – looked suspect. Its heatshrink covering had been shrunk by
excessive heat and so it was replaced.
This is the main smoothing capacitor
for the 12V rail.
Of course, the flyback transformer
could also have failed but my shorted
turns meter suggested it was OK. I then
checked for and soldered miscellaneous dry joints, especially around the
crystals to the jungle IC (IC201), which
can cause intermittent drive pulses
and destroy the line output transistor
as in other JVC models.
I also found a dry joint underneath
some glue at the junction of C508 and
C509, which are part of the AFC filter
circuits. And I replaced filter capacitor C514 (10µF 50V), which is on the
15V supply to the horizontal drive
transformer.
Now what to do about the vertical
deflection stages? I decided to play
safe and change anything that might
be likely to cause a problem. After
all, the parts are cheap and the labour
isn’t, so now was the easiest time
to change everything in sight. As a
result, I replaced IC441 (TDA 3654)
and electrolytic capacitors C443,
C444, C446, C448, C467 and C542 –
ie, all the electrolytics in the vertical
output stage.
When I returned with the chassis,
I managed to refit everything back
together again without breaking the
power switch. And because of space
restrictions and the need to refit AV
leads, I had to completely reassemble
the set and fit it back into its entertainment centre before switching it on.
It really was a relief to see the set
come on with a fully-scanned picture.
However, after a few minutes, I did
notice a problem – one colour was
missing, which was annoying. When
I removed the back again, I found that
this was due to a dry joint on the CRT
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panel to one of the output transistors. Resoldering this
finally restored the set to full operation.
The dead Telefunken
I sold a secondhand Telefunken SDX290 (Thompson
ICC7000+) TV set some years ago to Frank Rogers, a young
man in his late twenties who works in the city. Recently,
he phoned to say his set had died and just prior to that he
could hear “crackling” and smell acrid smoke.
From his description it sounded like the flyback transformer had failed, especially as he lived near the beach.
He didn’t want to spend much on it (have you ever met
anyone wanting to spend money on repairs?), so I suggested he bring the set in and I would check it out.
Frank jumped at this and said he would be round directly. Well, actually he didn’t “rock up” for a couple of
hours (and he just lives around the corner) but when he
did, his face was a picture – a mixture of sheepishness
and anger.
Apparently, he had had an accident on the way here.
He had placed the set in the back of his station wagon and
in his eagerness to get here had reversed really quickly
down his driveway before stopping to turn and drive up
the road.
The problem was that in his haste, he hadn’t closed
the tailgate properly. So when the car stopped abruptly,
the set didn’t. As a result, the tailgate opened and the set
tumbled out onto the road!
Being of solid Teutonic construction, the cabinet didn’t
break but both it and the tube sustained deep scratches.
And that meant that Shauna, his wife, no longer wanted
his pride and joy back in their lounge room, so he donated
the wreck to me.
Being curious, I removed the back and checked the set
out. The flyback transformer was OK but the horizontal
coupling capacitor – CW01 0.68µF 250V (mounted on
sub-board DFH7070) – had failed big time. Replacing it
fixed the picture and sound perfectly but nothing could
be done about the deep scratches.
I tried asking a few local glaziers about polishing out
the scratches on the front of the picture tube but no-one
would touch it with a barge pole – they wouldn’t even
look at it. This is a perennial problem for me as often I get
tubes with scratches and as yet, I haven’t found a satisfactory method of buffing them out.
Of course, I didn’t phone Frank back to tell him that
the cost of the repair would have been quite minor – that
really would have been rubbing salt into an already gaping wound.
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Standards conversion
A Panasonic TV from Brazil came in to be modified
so that it would work in Australia. In the old parlance,
CCIR System M is a mixture of American and European
TV systems. It uses the American channel frequencies
and spacing, plus 525 lines and 60Hz, and the German
PAL-D colour system. Its usable voltage range is from
100V to 250V AC.
Modifying it to work in Australia (System B/G) is
fairly straightforward until you get to the colour system.
In Brazil, the sub-carrier is 3.576MHz, whereas we are
4.43MHz, so we had no colour. Changing the ceramic
filters for the RF, IF and decoder section was relatively
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November 2004 47
Serviceman’s Log – continued
easy but trying to get the jungle IC to
lock into colour finally defeated us,
as it requires changes to the microprocessor and EEPROM to switch the
multiplier/divider connected to the
16MHz reference crystal.
In the end, the work-around was to
get a digital set top box with colour
difference outputs that could plug into
the DVD input sockets.
Dead Hitachi amplifier
A dead 1997 Hitachi 200 watt “Dynaharmony” series E amplifier (HMV8300) was brought in for repair. The
reason it was dead was because the
protection circuit had been enabled, as
the left channel had a 15V DC output
offset voltage.
The power supply was giving the
correct voltages at ±39V, ±95.8V, 14.7V
and 10.6V.
Careful measurements using a multimeter then revealed that R711 (100Ω)
was open circuit. Unfortunately, replacing it and then powering up this
big amplifier with a 100W light globe
in series with the AC input didn’t fix
the problem.
This time, the offset voltage was -4V
but at least the globe didn’t light up,
so there didn’t appear to be any major
faults that could cause catastrophic
damage. Further measurements using
a multimeter then showed that R710
measured 1.5kΩ, whereas it should
have been 100Ω. Hoping that this
would solve the riddle, I replaced it
and switched the amplifier on – forgetting to put the safety globe in circuit.
Big mistake – after the smoke had
cleared, I found I had blown Q714,
Q715 and Q710, all expensive output
transistors.
When I got back to square one again,
I switched on but this time with the
globe in place. The output offset was
still at -4V and the globe showed that
too much current was being drawn. I
then found that the output stage bias
was too high, at 200mV instead of
10mV.
As a result, I took a closer look at
the Bias Control/Idle Current Adjust
area of the circuit. And I hit pay-dirt
– a 12V zener diode (CR721L) on the
other side of the board was short circuit. Replacing this finally fixed the
amplifier.
48 Silicon Chip
While I was at it, I decided that it
would be a good idea to also examine
the righthand channel of the amplifier. This revealed that the same two
resistors were also high in this channel, even though it was still fully
functional.
My theory is that the lefthand
channel’s 100Ω fusible resistors are
what caused the zener diode to fail.
As a result, they were replaced in the
righthand channel as well, to ensure
long-term reliability.
Another audio amplifier
Another 1997 amplifier, this time an
English-made 80-watt NAD 317 (worth
about A$1200), was also brought in.
And like the Hitachi unit, it too had a
protection problem.
In this case, the protection circuit
was being triggered due to a 6V DC
output offset in the lefthand channel.
Unfortunately, this time I had no circuit
diagram, which meant it was going to
be difficult, but at least I had one good
channel to compare it with.
I began by checking the power supply. This revealed unregulated ±90V
rails which were then regulated down
to ± 55V, 52V and -12V. These figures
all seemed perfectly reasonable at the
time. The DC offset for the righthand
channel was 0V which is correct, while
and the lefthand channel was at +6V
as previously stated.
My next step was to check all the
transistors and I even replaced the
small signal transistors in case of
intermittent noise due to breakdown.
However, this made no difference and I
finally realised that I needed the circuit
diagram to make further progress.
As a result, I ordered the service
manual and when it arrived, I immediately realised that the power supply
voltages were incorrect – even though
one channel was still working correctly. There should have been ±52V
rails instead of +52V and -12V.
From this information, I found a
100Ω resistor (not marked on the circuit) that was open circuit. This had
probably failed due to a large number
of leaky capacitors in the power supply
(around 20, in fact). I replaced all these
and for a while did have sound coming
out of the amplifier but then the slow
muting circuit cut in intermittently.
I spent a very long time trying to
fix this new fault and get this simple
circuit to work. The circuit uses IC202
(TA7317) and its output at pin 6 drives,
via two thermistors, a relay and Q208
(2SC2240). This, in turn, drives Q207
(2SA970) via a time-constant capacitor
(C222), then Q206 and Q205. These
then drive the “Protect-On” LED and
muting transistors Q101 and Q102
– ie, the muting transistors for each
channel.
The problem lay around Q207,
which was being randomly switched
on. This transistor appeared to be
still on even when there was only
0.07-0.055V varying between its base
and emitter. However, hitting any
component with freezer would make
the circuit work.
In the end, I replaced all the components in this circuit and it still kept
playing up! Even replacing or shorting
Q208 made no difference.
It’s the economy, stupid
After spending a prodigious amount
of time trying to resolve this problem,
it reached the stage of being well
beyond economic repair. As a workaround, I simply removed the slow
switch-on muting circuit transistor
(Q207), resulting in a slight audible
click when the amplifier was turned
on or off. This wasn’t really a big deal
and at least the rest of the amplifier
now worked!
Sometimes you just have a bad hair
day – this was one! It’s funny how
simple circuits are often more troublesome than complex ones. Of course,
it’s possible that the transistors, which
have a GR suffix, may require higher
gain than the ones I fitted and this may
SC
be critical in this circuit.
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See the separate page listing those currently available on page 100.
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November 2004 65
*ALL ITEMS SUBJECT TO AVAILABILITY. PRICES VALID FOR MONTH OF MAGAZINE ISSUE ONLY. ALL PRICES IN AUSTRALIAN DOLLARS AND INCLUDE GST WHERE APPLICABLE.
11/04
The
Driveway
Sentry
By JIM ROWE
Here’s a low cost, easy to build and install sensor
system for detecting moving vehicles like cars,
trucks, tractors or other farm machinery. It can also
be used to detect the opening and closing of metal
gates and roller doors.
U
nlike other sensing systems
that use light, heat or ultrasonic
sound waves to detect motion,
the Driveway Sentry operates by sensing small changes in the Earth’s magnetic field – the same magnetic field
that is sensed by a compass.
Since cars, trucks and similar vehicles contain a significant amount
of ferrous metal (iron, steel etc), they
inevitably produce small temporary
66 Silicon Chip
changes in the Earth’s magnetic field
when they move into or through an
area.
That’s how the Driveway Sentry
detects them, using a special high-sensitivity shielded remote sensor unit.
Because it doesn’t generate any
sensing fields of its own, the Driveway
Sensory produces no environmental pollution of any kind; it’s quite
‘clean’.
Also, because it only senses moving
iron and steel objects like vehicles,
it is much more selective than other
kinds of sensor.
This makes it immune to false
alarms from birds, dogs, cats, sheep,
cattle and other animals, falling tree
branches, rain and snow, people walking past and so on.
At the same time it can be used to
detect the movement of vehicles which
siliconchip.com.au
MAIN FEATURES
Exit Delay: Allows the system to be
switched to non-sensing ‘sleep mode’
for a period of about six minutes, to
allow the owner’s vehicle to exit from
the property without activating the
Driveway Sentry. At the end of the Exit
Delay period, the system returns to its
movement sensing mode.
Test Button: Allows the system to be
manually triggered into ‘movement detected’ alarm mode, without having to
drive a vehicle past the remote sensing
unit. This makes system adjustment
much easier and more convenient.
be disabled if you prefer the system to
respond silently.
onds and a maximum of about 25
seconds.
Relay Contacts: The Driveway Sentry
control box includes a DPDT relay
with two sets of changeover contacts.
These are activated when the system
detects movement, allowing the Sentry
to be connected to security systems,
telephone diallers, radio transmitters and so on. It can also be used to
control mains lighting, electric gates
or other equipment, via an external
mains-rated relay.
Probe Sensitivity Control: Allows the sensitivity of the Sentry’s remote sensing
unit to be adjusted over a wide range,
so it can be set for reliable vehicle (or
gate or door) movement detection without being too sensitive and susceptible
to false alarms.
Piezo Buzzer: Produces a high-pitched
sound to attract your attention when
movement is detected. This sound can
Alarm Duration Control: Allows the
duration of the system’s ‘movement
detected’ alarm mode to be adjusted
between a minimum of two sec-
contain very little ferrous metal – like
aluminium trailers, boats and caravans
- simply by attaching a strong magnet
to the underside of their frame. The
magnet ensures that if they’re moved
past the Driveway Sentry’s remote sensor unit, the Earth’s magnetic field will
be disturbed locally and the system
will activate.
The Driveway Sentry can also be
used to detect the opening or closing
of a ferrous metal gate, or a roller door
made from the same material, simply
by placing the remote sensor unit in
the appropriate position.
It can even be used to detect the
opening and closing of non-ferrous
(ie, timber or aluminium) gates or
roller doors, again simply by attaching a magnet to them. In short, the
Driveway Sentry has a multitude of
motion-sensing uses around the home,
farm or industrial facility.
By the way, the remote sensor unit
doesn’t have to be mounted directly
under the driveway or gateway, so
there’s no need to cut a trench in your
concrete drive. It’s sufficiently sensitive to detect moving vehicles within
a range of about 3-5 metres, so it will
work quite well when buried in a shallow trench alongside the driveway or
gateway.
The system operates from 12V DC
and draws very little current: less than
30mA when ‘armed’ and waiting, and
no more than 70mA when it senses
movement and is ‘alarmed’.
This means it’s very economical
and can easily be operated from a
12V battery and/or solar power, as an
alternative to an AC plugpack supply.
The Driveway Sentry has been developed by Jaycar Electronics, and as
a result the kit will only be available
from Jaycar.
Low Power Consumption: Operates from
12V DC power, with a low current drain
and power consumption – less than
70mA (0.84 watts), even in ‘movement
detected’ alarm mode. This means that
the system can be operated from a 12V
battery and/or solar power in rural and
other remote situations.
Because the project’s remote sensing unit uses a special construction
and involves many thousands of turns
of fine wire, this will be supplied
pre-built and sealed in a waterproof
housing with 30m of special shielded
cable attached. This should be sufficient to connect the sensor back to
the Driveway Sentry in most home or
business situations.
However if you need to monitor
vehicle movement much further away
from your house or office (say at a
remote entrance gate or machinery
shed), its alarm outputs can be connected back to your main security
system via a VHF or UHF radio link.
How it works
The heart of the Driveway Sentry is
its remote sensor, which as we said has
many thousands of turns of fine wire
wound on a long rod of ‘soft’ iron.
He’s the Sentry you don’t have to pay, feed or even be nice to . . . but he’s ready and rearing to go 24 hours a day! This
photo shows the control box and behind that, the sensor which is buried in the ground alongside your driveway.
siliconchip.com.au
November 2004 67
68 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
2004
SC
K
A
7
IC3c
IC3b
14
ZD1
16V
1W
A
K
1nF
10
4
C B E
PN100
10nF
11
RS
27k
12
13
11
10k
10k
330nF
9
CT
+1.4V
K
K
A
K
B
K
A
9
10
560Ω
16V ZENER
A
1N4004
A
1N4148
8
Vss
IC3a
3
+6V
1nF
1k
100nF
O13
3
2
1
+1.4V
BALANCE
VR1
1k 10T
33k
IC4 4060B
IC3d
100nF
68Ω
68Ω
10
RT
16
Vdd
MR
470k
12
IC3: 4011B
A
K
K
A
D1,D2: 1N4148
DRIVEWAY SENTRY
LEDS
100nF
8
S2
5
6
100k
9
D3
1N4148
A
K
EXIT
DELAY
100k
C1
G
C2
30m SCREENED
2-CORE CABLE
FARADAY
SHIELD
SENSOR
COIL
E
C
8
Q1
PN100
220k
2
7
6
220 µF
25V
5
3
100nF
8
A
LED1
POWER
K
D4
1N4004
1
IC2
7555
4
100nF
+3.0V
1k
220k
ALARM
DURATION
47 µF
25V
RBLL
47k
CON1
12V DC IN
VR3
500k
EXIT
DELAY
λ LED2
470nF
470k
IC1c
4
IC1: LM324
K
λ
A
1k
12
13
11
IC1d
470 µF
25V
IN
OUT
GND
E
C
A
B
+6V
E
C
7
TRIGGER
IC1b
100nF
RELAY1
100Ω
47 µF
16V
Q2
PN100
K
180k
5
6
68k
PIEZO
BUZZER
100Ω
Q3
PN100
–
+
REG1 7806
4.7k
+11.4V
B
TEST
S1
+4.4V
1k
PROBE
SENSITIVITY
D5
1N4004
10k
14
VR2 500k
LK1
BUZZER
ON/OFF
4.7k
470nF
+6V
OUT
GND
IN
7806
NO
COM
NC
NO
COM
NC
+11.4V
S2
EXIT DELAY
ZD1
C2
G
COM NC NO NO NC COM C1
NO
NC
POWER
100Ω
1k
PIEZO
BUZZER
+
16V
10k
68Ω
1nF
100nF
4148
D1
D2 4148
68Ω
1k
NO
REG1
7806
47 µF
a level where they are capable of being
applied to IC1b, which compares them
with a reference voltage of +4.4V from
the voltage divider formed by the 68kW
and 180kW resistors.
When the peak value of the amplified sensor signals exceeds the +4.4V
reference level, the output of comparator IC1b switches low.
This negative-going pulse is used to
trigger IC2, a 7555 timer IC configured
as a one-shot. The output of IC2 (pin 3)
then switches high, for a time period
set by the RC time constant connected
to pins 6 and 7. Trimpot VR3 allows
you to adjust this alarm duration time
between about two and 25 seconds.
When IC2 triggers on, it switches on
transistor Q3 and operates the relay.
The relay contacts can then be used
CON1
LED1
+
470 µF 25V
1N4004
COM
ALARM
TIME
33k
10k
Q2
PN100
100Ω
NC
COIL
LK1
100nF
MKT
100nF
NO
47k
100k
100nF
LED2
NC
RELAY1
4.7k
BUZ/NOBUZ
560Ω
Q1
PN100
Q3
PN100
D4
VR3
500k
EXIT DELAY
1k
470nF
1k
IC2
7555
4011B
10k
100nF
100nF
100k
4148
D3
100nF
27k
470k
+
47 µF
LL
+
330nF
IC3
100nF
VR1
PROBE
SENSITIVITY
10nF
MKT
IC4 4060B
IC1 LM324
D5 1N4004
NC
470k
220k
4.7k
1k
180k
68k
220k
4002 C
NO
1nF
100nF
220 µF
COM
This makes the coil very sensitive to
small changes in the Earth’s magnetic
field, of the type produced by a vehicle moving nearby. As a result of the
magnetic field changes, the coil generates tiny low frequency AC voltages,
and it’s these that are fed back to the
Control Box via twin shielded cable.
They are then amplified and used to
trigger the alarm circuit.
Because the sensor coil also tends to
pick up a significant amount of electrical noise and mains hum, it must be
fitted with a Faraday shield. This is a
thin sheet of metal foil encasing the
coil, providing it with an electrostatic
shield (without also forming a shorted
turn). The shield is connected back to
the Control Box ground via the cable
screening braid. The full circuit is
shown in Fig.1.
Inside the box, the small voltages induced in the sensor coil are amplified
by about 470 times in a DC amplifier
stage using IC1c – one section of an
LM324 quad op-amp.
Because of the high gain, this stage
is provided with fine manual control
over bias balancing, using 10-turn
trimpot VR1. Diodes D1 and D2, along
with zener diode ZD1 are used to
protect IC1c from blocking or damage
caused by induced voltage ‘spikes’.
The output from IC1c is further amplified by IC1d, configured as an AC
amplifier stage with gain adjustable
between about 5 and 500 times using
trimpot VR2.
This brings the peak amplitude of
the amplified sensor coil signals up to
siliconchip.com.au
470nF
YRTNES YAWEVIRD
VR2
500k
S1
TEST
100nF
+
Fig. 1 (left): the
complete circuit
diagram, and
Fig.2 (right):
the PC board
overlay. As you
can see, various
size piezo
buzzers can be
accommodated
on this board.
Note the
comments about
the relay in the
text: neither its
contacts nor the
PC board tracks
are rated to
handle 240VAC
– however, it
can be used
to switch an
external 240VAC
rated relay.
SENSOR COIL
CONNECTIONS
RELAY
CONTACTS A
RELAY
CONTACTS B
NOMINAL
12VDC
INPUT
to switch power to a siren, turn on
security lights or trigger your main
security system.
At the same time, the high level on
pin 3 of IC2 can be used to turn on
transistor Q2 which controls the small
piezo buzzer mounted in the Driveway
Sentry control box. If you don’t want
this internal buzzer to sound, it can
be disabled by moving link LK1 over
to the earthy side.
Note that pushbutton switch S1 can
be used to temporarily ground the
positive input of comparator IC1b.
This forces the output of IC1b low,
triggering IC2 in the same way as a
signal peak from IC1d.
So S1 provides a handy Test function, allowing you to do things like
adjust the alarm duration without
The completed PC board, as mounted in the jiffy box.
November 2004 69
Parts List – Driveway Sentry
1 PC board, code DRIVSENT, 133 x 83mm
1 Jiffy box, UB1 size (158 x 95 x 53mm)
1 Magnetic Sensor potted coil assembly (Jaycar)
1 12V DPDT relay, 5A contact rating
1 piezo buzzer
2 DPDT pushbutton switches (S1,S2)
3 3-way terminal blocks, PC-mounting
1 2.5mm concentric power connector, PC-mounting
1 3-pin SIL header strip, with jumper shunt
1 19mm square U-shaped heatsink
4 M3 tapped spacers, 25mm long
4 M3 machine screws, 9mm long countersunk head
5 M3 machine screws, 9mm long round head
1 M3 hex nut and star lockwasher
Semiconductors
1 LM324 quad op amp (IC1)
1 7555 CMOS timer (IC2)
1 4011B quad NAND gate (IC3)
1 4060B binary counter (IC4)
1 7806 +6V regulator (REG1)
3 PN100 NPN transistors (Q1,Q2,Q3)
1 16V 1W zener diode (ZD1)
1 5mm green LED (LED1)
1 5mm red LED (LED2)
3 1N4148 silicon diodes (D1,D2,D3)
2 1N4004 1A silicon diodes (D4,D5)
(SOIL)
REMOTE SENSOR
IN SHALLOW TRENCH
ALONGSIDE DRIVEWAY
1 68kW
2 4.7kW
WHERE TO GET THE KIT:
This project was designed and developed for Jaycar
Electronics, who own the copyright to the circuit, PC
board and illustrations.
A kit of parts will be available exclusively from all
Jaycar Electronics stores shortly after this issue goes
on sale.
The kit (KC5402) has all components listed above,
including the unique sensor coil and retails for $179.00
including GST.
Contact your nearest Jaycar Electronics store or visit
www.jaycar.com.au
70 Silicon Chip
SOIL USED TO
COVER SENSOR,
HIDING IT AND CABLE
DRIVEWAY
Capacitors
1 470mF 25V RB electrolytic
1 220mF 25V RB electrolytic
1 47mF 16V RB electrolytic
1 47mF 25V RBLL electrolytic
2 470nF MKT polyester
1 330nF greencap or MKT
8 100nF multilayer monolithic ceramic
2 100nF MKT
1 10nF MKT
2 1nF disc ceramic
Resistors (0.25W 1%)
2 470kW 2 220kW 1 180kW 2 100kW
1 47kW
1 33kW
1 27kW
3 10kW
4 1kW
1 560W
2 100W
2 68W
1 1kW trimpot, horizontal 10-turn (VR1)
2 500kW trimpots, horizontal (VR2,3)
The remote sensor, potted inside its PVC pipe protective
cover. Don’t try to remove it – the chances are very high that
you will damage or destroy it!
The drawing below shows how the sensor can be located in a
trench alongside the driveway – you don’t have to cut a hole
in the concrete to use the Driveway Sentry.
having to drive a vehicle near the remote sensor unit.
All of the remaining circuitry around IC3 and IC4 is
used to provide the Driveway Sentry’s ‘exit delay’ function. This operates quite simply by holding the reset pin
(pin 4) of IC2 low for a fixed period of about six minutes,
after power is first applied to the Driveway Sentry or after
pushbutton S2 is pressed at any later time. With its reset
pin held low, IC2 is prevented from triggering during that
time, allowing you to drive out in your own vehicle before
the Sentry is re-armed.
The exit delay circuit consists of a simple R-S flipflop using IC3b and IC3c, two of the gates in a 4011B quad NAND
gate. When power is first applied or when S2 is pressed,
the flipflop is switched into its reset state (pin 4 low), by
the temporary low on pin 8. This low is applied to the reset
pin (12) of IC4, a 4060B oscillator/14-stage binary divider
IC. IC4 is thus allowed to begin oscillating and counting.
This proceeds for around six minutes, after which IC4’s
pin 3 (output O13) finally drops to the low logic level. This
negative-going edge is coupled via the 10nF capacitor back
to pin 6 of IC3b, which switches the flipflop back into its set
state. In this state pin 4 goes high, holding IC4 in its reset
state and stopping its oscillator and counter.
At the same time, gates IC3d and IC3a (used as inverters)
apply a logic high to the reset pin of IC2, allowing it to be
triggered again. So the Driveway Sentry is re-armed.
Notice that during the exit delay time, there is a logic high
on pin 10 of IC3c, the lower flipflop gate. This is used to
turn on transistor Q1, which allows current to flow through
LED2. This LED is therefore only illuminated during the
exit delay period.
The power supply section of the Driveway Sentry is
straightforward. Diode D4 provides reverse polarity protection on the 12V DC input, while regulator REG1 provides
siliconchip.com.au
a stable +6V supply for all of the electronics apart from the relay. LED1 gives
indication that the Driveway Sentry
has +12V power and is operating.
Construction
Apart from the remote sensor unit,
all of the Driveway Sentry’s components and circuitry are mounted on a
small PC board measuring 133 x 83mm
and coded DRIVSENT. It is mounted in
a standard UB1 jiffy box measuring 158
x 95 x 55mm, which forms the control
box. The remote sensor unit connects
to it via the 30m shielded cable.
Since the remote sensor unit will be
supplied fully built up, you will only
have to wire up the control box - ie,
fit the components to the PC board.
This should be quite straightforward
if you use the PC board overlay diagram (Fig.2) and the internal photo
as a guide.
Begin assembly by fitting the two
wire links to the board. These are
near IC2 in the centre and they are
both 0.4” long (so you can use ‘0W’
dummy resistors if you prefer). Also fit
the three-way SIL header strip for LK1
at this time – it goes between IC2 and
the relay location. Then fit the three
3-way terminal blocks, which go on
the right-hand end of the board. The
2.5mm DC input socket can be fitted
as well, down in the lower right-hand
corner.
Now fit the resistors. Follow these
with the smaller unpolarised capacitors, then the larger unpolarised and
polarised capacitors. Make sure you
fit the latter with the correct orientation, as shown in the overlay diagram.
Note that there are two different
47mF electrolytics: one a low leakage
(RBLL) type, usually in a case with an
orange coloured sleeve, and the other
a standard RB type in a black sleeved
case. The low leakage unit goes near
IC2 in the centre of the board, while
the standard electro goes just to the
left of REG1.
Next mount the three trimpots, the
relay and the piezo buzzer. Note that
the PC board provides multiple holes
for the buzzer, to cope with different
buzzer pin spacings.
The two pushbutton switches can
be fitted after this, but you may need
to slightly enlarge the PC board holes
for these with a jeweller’s file, to allow
their lugs to pass through the board
sufficiently for soldering.
Begin fitting the semiconductors
siliconchip.com.au
The completed PC board mounted in
a UB1 Jiffy Box. Note the hole and
slot cut in the ends of the box – the
hole (right) is for the plugpack mains
adaptor, while the slot allows the
wiring from the sensor unit and
the wiring to external alarm/
controlled devices to enter
the box.
by adding the
various diodes, making sure you fit
them in the correct
locations and with the
correct polarity. Then fit the
three transistors, watching their
orientation also.
Follow these with REG1, which is
mounted horizontally with a 19mm
U-shaped heatsink. Its three leads are
bent downwards 6mm from the device
body and soldered underneath.
The regulator body is held firmly
down in contact with the heatsink
using a 9mm long M3 machine screw
with a star lockwasher and M3 nut.
The four DIL ICs are fitted next, making sure you fit each one the correct
way around as shown in the overlay
diagram.
As three of the ICs are CMOS, take
the usual precautions to minimise
the risk of electrostatic damage. Use
an earthed soldering iron, and ideally
earth yourself before picking up these
devices. Also solder their supply pins
to the PC board pads first, before soldering the other pins.
The final components to fit are the
two LEDs, which are both 5mm types.
The green LED fits in the LED1 position just below the relay, while the
red LED fits in the LED2 position just
above pushbutton S2.
Both mount vertically with the
lower surface of their body 20mm
above the board, so they will protrude
through matching holes in the box
front panel when it’s assembled. They
are also both orientated with their ‘flat’
side downwards, and their longer anode lead towards the top of the board.
Your Driveway Sentry board assembly should now be complete, and
ready for testing.
Testing and setup
For the initial testing, there’s no
need to connect the remote sensor unit
to the PC board assembly. Just connect
a 330W resistor temporarily between
terminals C1 and C2 at upper right on
the board, as a passive ‘stand in’.
Then connect a plugpack or another
source of 12V DC to CON1, the board’s
DC input connector at lower right.
If all is well, both LEDs should immediately light – LED1 because power
is present and LED2 because the exit
delay timing circuit has already begun
counting. LED2 should remain on for
about six minutes after power-up,
just as it should do after you press
button S2.
Next, connect a DMM to pin 8 of IC1,
and measure the voltage. It should be
between +2.5V and +3.0V. If it isn’t
inside this range, adjust trimpot VR1
until it is.
Now set trimpot VR3 to about midrange and check that link LK1 is in the
‘buzzer on’ position. Also wait until
LED2 is off, showing that the exit delay
circuit has timed out. Then press Test
button S1, which should make the
relay operate and the buzzer sound.
If the buzzer operating time is not
to your liking – ie, it’s too short or too
long – this can be changed quite easily
by adjusting trimpot VR3. The adjustNovember 2004 71
A couple of
keyhole slots cut
in the rear of the
Jiffy Box makes
it easy to mount
the box on a wall.
Naturally, these
need to be cut
before the PC
board is installed
in the box.
ment range is from about two seconds
up to about 25 seconds.
The only other adjustment to be
made to the Driveway Sentry is to vary
the sensitivity of the sensor probe. This
is done in much the same way as for
the alarm duration, but by adjusting
trimpot VR2. The adjustment must be
done later though, when the system
has been installed and the remote
sensor unit connected. For the present, simply set VR2 to its midrange
position.
Final assembly
The final step in building the
Driveway Sentry is to fit the PC board
assembly inside the main part of the
box. It mounts via four 25mm long M3
tapped spacers, using four 9mm long
M3 countersink head screws to fasten
the spacers in the box, and four 9mm
long M3 round head screws to attach
the PC board.
When the board is mounted inside
the box the pushbuttons will protrude
through matching holes in the front
panel, as will the two LEDs. The Probe
Sensitivity (VR2) and Alarm Duration
(VR3) trimpots can also be adjusted using a small screwdriver through their
labelled adjustment holes.
A 10mm diameter hole in the righthand end of the box allows the 12V
DC cable to enter, while an adjacent
rectangular slot allows entry of the
various sensor unit and relay contact
cables.
As you can see from the diagram
of Fig.3, the rear of the box has two
elongated holes to allow the completed
control unit to be mounted on a wall
using two 8G x 25mm self-tapping
screws or similar. The screws should
be fitted to the wall exactly 100mm
apart, in horizontal alignment and
72 Silicon Chip
screwed in with their heads only
2.5mm away from the wall.
Mount the control box in a position
where it’s unobtrusive, yet easy to access so you can press the Exit Delay
button before leaving.
Locating the sensor
The remote sensor unit is housed in
a sealed plastic tube 50mm in diameter
and 370mm long. It’s designed to be
placed in a shallow trench alongside
your driveway, so that it’s out of sight
while still being near any vehicles
moving on the driveway. If there’s
a steel-framed gate at the driveway
entrance, you can mount the remote
sensing unit under the area where the
gate is swung open, so it will detect the
gate being moved as well as a moving
vehicle.
Note that the remote sensing unit
doesn’t have to be mounted directly
under the driveway, because it’s quite
sensitive. So there’s no need to cut a
trench in your concrete drive – just
bury the sensor a small distance down
in a lawn or garden bed alongside the
drive.
The sensor is connected back to the
control unit via its attached 30m long
screened cable. The two inner wires of
the cable connect to terminals C1 and
C2, while the earthing screen connects
to the centre ‘G’ terminal.
There’s no need to dig a deep trench
for the probe. It only needs to be about
100mm below the surface, where it
should be hidden and protected from
damage. The cable can be run back to
the nearest building in a narrow trench
of about the same depth.
Sensitivity adjustment
Once the sensor unit has been fitted
in position and connected back to the
control unit, you’re ready to make the
final adjustment: probe sensitivity. As
explained earlier this can’t be done
using the Test button; it can only be
done using a vehicle moving along
the driveway, or someone opening or
closing the gate or roller door for you.
Trimpot VR2 is turned clockwise
to make the probe more sensitive, or
anticlockwise to make it less sensitive.
The best setting is where the probe
reliably detects the smallest moving
vehicle likely to enter or leave via the
driveway, without being more sensitive than this.
If you simply adjust VR2 for maximum sensitivity (ie, fully clockwise),
the Driveway Sentry may then be
prone to giving ‘false alarms’ due to
passing radio transmitters or mobile
phones, or during electrical storms.
Putting it to use
When the Driveway Sentry is
‘armed’ and detects movement, it immediately produces an alarm sound
from the buzzer and operates the relay.
The relay contacts can be connected to
another security system, so that when
the relay operates this can initiate further action like triggering a loud siren,
dialling a security firm, dialling your
own mobile phone or whatever action
you choose.
Please note that the relay contacts
in the Driveway Sentry control box
are NOT rated for switching 240V AC
mains power.
So if you want to have the Sentry
turn on high power floodlights or other
mains-operated equipment when it detects vehicle or gate movement, you’ll
need to do this via a second external
relay with mains-rated contacts (or a
mains-rated solid state relay).
The Driveway Sentry’s relay contacts can activate the external relay,
to control the mains-powered lighting or equipment. Jaycar can supply
a mains-rated solid state relay which
would be quite suitable for this: the
SY-4080, which can switch up to 3A
at 240V (ie, 720W).
The main external connection options for the Driveway Sentry are
illustrated in the diagram of Fig.3. As
you can see it’s very easy to hook the
Sentry up to a larger security system,
using a length of two-wire cable. One
wire connects to either COM terminal
on the control box, and the other wire
to either the NO (normally open) or
NC (normally closed) terminal in the
siliconchip.com.au
CONNECT
CORRESPONDING
CONTACT PAIRS
COM
NC
NO
COM
NC
NO
INPUTS
2
PHONE LINE
12VDC
NC
COM
NO
NO
COM
NC
1
TRIG
PHONE DIALLER
SECURITY
SYSTEM
DRIVEWAY
SENTRY
A
DRIVEWAY
SENTRY
CONNECTING TO A SECURITY SYSTEM
SOLID
STATE
RELAY
NO
NC
COM
B
CONNECTING TO A PHONE DIALLER
ESR2102400300
3–32 VDC
INPUT
4
– +
3
MAINS
PLUG &
CABLE
3A 240VAC
OUTPUT
2
1
ACTIVE
(BROWN)
WIRE
TO FLOODLIGHTS
OR SIREN, ETC
DRIVEWAY
SENTRY
0V
C CONNECTING TO A SOLID-STATE
RELAY FOR SWITCHING MAINSPOWERED LIGHTS, ETC.
EARTH (GRN/YELLOW) WIRE
+12V
NEUTRAL (BLUE) WIRE
INSULATE
THESE RELAY PINS
AND JOINTS
WITH HEATSHRINK
SLEEVING OR SIMILAR
EARTH
NEUTRAL
ACTIVE (BROWN) WIRE
ACTIVE
Fig. 3: connecting the Driveway Sentry to various external devices.
same group – depending on the security system input you
connect it to at the other end.
If the security system input expects NO contacts, connect
to the NO terminal; if it expects NC contacts, connect to the
NC terminal.
Connecting the Sentry up to a phone dialler is just as
easy. Again you simply use a two-wire cable, connecting
it to a COM terminal and either of the matching NO or NC
terminals depending on the type of contact action needed
to trigger the dialler.
When you want to connect the Driveway Sentry so it
can switch on external floodlights or a high-power siren
powered by the mains, this can be done by connecting one
of the Sentry’s relay contact sets so that it can operate an
SY-4080 solid state relay, or some other relay rated to switch
240V power.
As you can see, the positive input (control) terminal of
the solid state relay is connected to the +12V supply, while
its negative input is connected to the NO terminal of the
Sentry contacts.
The COM terminal of the same set of contacts is then
connected to 0V, so the solid state relay will be operated
(turned on) when the Driveway Sentry detects a moving
vehicle or gate.
The solid state relay’s output connections are then used
to switch 240V power to your siren or floodlights, etc. SC
siliconchip.com.au
8G x 25mm
SCREWS
(WALL)
1
OFFER LARGE ENDS OF
HOLES IN BOX REAR UP
TO SCREWS, THEN SLIDE
BOX DOWN TO FASTEN IT
2
DRIVEWAY SENTRY
CONTROL BOX
FRONT
PANEL
Fig.4: mounting the Driveway Sentry on a wall.
November 2004 73
Control equipment from anywhere, any time, using SMS
and an old Nokia mobile phone! – By Peter Smith
SMS
Controller Pt.2
L
ast month, we described the circuit for the
SMS Controller and gave the assembly
details. This month, we tell you how to
complete the circuit checking and describe how
the unit is used.
Having carried out the power supply
checks described last month in Part 1,
the next step is to check out the serial
interface and the microcontroller.
First, disconnect the power and
insert IC1 and IC3 into their sockets.
If the microcontroller needs to be
programmed, then you should do that
next. Refer to the “Microcontroller
Programming” panel for more details
on this.
Next, install jumper shunts on
JP4-JP7. These should always be in
place when the inputs (IN1 - IN4) are
not connected, otherwise the micro’s
74 Silicon Chip
port pins will be “floating” in an indeterminate logic state.
Conversely, remove all jumper
shunts from JP1-JP3 if installed earlier
and apply power. The “Comms Error”
LED (LED1) should illuminate, while
all other LEDs (except the “Power”
LED) should be off. This indicates
that the micro cannot communicate
with the phone, which of course isn’t
connected yet. However, it does tell us
that the micro is doing what it should.
Note: the very first time you apply
power, all red LEDs may come on for
one second and then go out, with just
the “Comms Error” LED remaining on.
This sequence indicates that the micro
has automatically erased its on-board
EEPROM, ready for programming.
If you get a different result, the
problem is most likely due to one or
more pins of the micro having missed
their sockets and bent underneath
the chip.
If bent pins aren’t the problem,
then check out the oscillator circuit,
consisting of crystal X1 and the two
22pF capacitors. If you have access
to an oscilloscope, you can observe
the operation of the oscillator on pin
18. In addition, check the voltage on
the micro’s RESET input (pin 9). This
pin should measure close to +5V during normal operation, going low only
during power up and power down.
The final step involves a quick
checkout of the RS232 interface circuit.
Measure the voltage between pin 2 of
IC4 and ground and pin 6 of IC4 and
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ground. You should get around +9.5V
and -9.3V, respectively. These voltages
are generated by the MAX232’s internal
charge pumps, in conjunction with the
four 1µF capacitors.
If your board passes all the tests,
you can now connect the data cable
between your board and phone. Note
that’s it’s a good idea to power off both
devices when connecting and disconnecting this cable.
Suitable case
If desired, the completed module
can be housed in a “UB1” size plastic
jiffy box or similar, with a slot cut in
the side of the box to accommodate
the terminal block wiring.
The mobile phone must be positioned at least 50cm from the controller and associated wiring so that RF energy from its antenna doesn’t interfere
with the circuit operation. This is very
important! If this separation cannot be
attained in your application, then the
controller must be housed in a metal
case or shielded from the phone with
a large metal plate.
Alternatively, both the 5110 & 6110
models support connection of an external antenna, which would allow
good separation and improve signal
strength in some areas.
Operational basics
System operation is quite straightforward – when any of the digital
inputs change state, the controller
sends a pre-programmed SMS message to the nominated mobile number.
Conversely, when you want to turn
any of the outputs on or off, you send
a message to the controller.
The messages used in both directions are programmed during the
setup procedure. This allows the use
of messages related to the task at hand.
For example, you might want to assign
the message “pump” to turn on the
first output and “nopump” to turn it
off. This means that you don’t need to
remember which output the pump is
connected to or which state (high or
low) is on or off.
The controller also recognises a
number of unique messages, called
“in-built commands”, that can be
sent from another mobile to program
the system during setup, as well as
modify system behaviour during
normal operation. A summary of all
these commands appears in Table.2.
Before we look at how to set up the
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On the 3310 model, the serial interface is accessible through a hole in the rear
of the case, underneath the battery. The data cable is terminated with a plastic
head assembly that includes a set of spring-loaded contacts as well as tabs to
retain the battery that it partly displaces.
controller, let’s look at each command
in detail.
In-built commands
ACKON – this command forces the
controller to respond to every message
that it receives. If a received message is
deemed valid, the controller responds
with “OK”. If a message is unknown,
the response is “bad cmd”.
ACKOFF – the opposite of ACKON.
All further acknowledgments are
disabled.
CHARGE{number} – this command
allows you to modify the battery
charging parameters, dependent on
the model of phone in use.
For the 5110 & 6110, the {number}
value defines the battery level at which
the on-board charger is switched on.
Only values between 0 and 4 are valid.
A value of 4 instructs the controller
to continually charge the phone and
is therefore not recommended. The
default level is 1.
For the 3210 & 3110, a timed charge/
discharge scheme is used instead, as
battery level information is not available to the controller. The {number}
value defines the charge time in minutes, with the discharge time being
fixed at 8 hours. Only values between
10 and 240 are valid. The default
charge time is 40 minutes.
COUNT – Use this command to get
the total number of messages sent and
received by the controller, as well as
the firmware version number. The
returned message is in the format
“r=nnnnn s=nnnnn v=nn.nn”, where
“r” and “s” are the total number of
received and sent messages, respectively.
DIS{string} – in some situations, you
may not want to be informed when a
particular input changes state but still
want to receive notification on the
remaining inputs. An example of this
might be when one sector of an alarm
system is faulty and has been isolated.
Using this command, you can disable
notification on either or both states of
any input.
For example, suppose a message of
“SECTOR1ALARM” is programmed
to be sent when an input goes low
and a complementary message of
“SECTOR1IDLE” is programmed to
November 2004 75
The 3210 interface is also accessible under the rear cover but unlike the 3310,
there’s no need to remove the battery. Once in place, the connector and cable
extend at right angles from the rear of the phone, which may make mounting
awkward in some cases.
be sent when it returns high. To stop
receiving these messages each time
the input toggles, you could send the
commands “DISSECTOR1ALARM”
followed by “DISSECTOR1IDLE”.
EN{string} – the opposite of
DIS{string}, this command reinstates
notification on the input and state
designated by {string}.
LOGIN{pass} – essentially, this
command tells the controller your current mobile phone number. You don’t
actually need to enter the number, as
it’s automatically gleaned from the
incoming message. All messages are
forwarded to the mobile phone that
sent the last LOGIN command, which
remains valid until another LOGIN or
LOGOUT command is received.
If a password had been set, it must
immediately follow the LOGIN command. An exception to this is in
programming mode (JP3 in), where
password checking is not performed.
LOGOUT – this command disables
all outgoing messages. It’s wise to send
this command to the controller before
you switch off your phone. If your
phone’s battery goes flat, or it’s stolen
or misplaced, use a friend’s phone to
first LOGIN and then LOGOUT. If you
don’t, a malfunctioning system could
see you rack up a phone bill of astronomical proportions – a compelling
reason to use only a prepaid plan for
the phone connected to the controller
(see panel in Pt.1)!
PASS{string} – sets a new password
of 1-8 characters long. Passwords
longer than 8 characters elicit a “bad
pass” response. The initial password
is programmed during the setup procedure. Once set, it can be changed
at any time but only from the currently logged-in phone (see LOGIN
command).
Table 2: Command Summary
Command
Function
ACKON
Enable acknowledge messages
ACKOFF
Disable acknowledge messages
CHARGE{number}
Modify battery charge level (5110 & 6110) or charge time (3210 & 3310)
COUNT
Get SMS sent & received counters & firmware version number
DIS{string}
Disable state change messages on input defined by {string}
EN{string}
Enable state change messages on input defined by {string}
LOGIN
Enable message transmissions to your current mobile number
LOGOUT
Disable further message transmissions to your mobile
PASS{string}
Set new password to {string} (8 characters max.)
STAT
Get snapshot of digital inputs & open-collector outputs
The following commands are valid only in programming mode (JP3 in):
IN{n}{L}{message}
Define the message the controller sends when input {n} goes low
IN{n}{H}{message}
Define the message the controller sends when input {n} goes high
OUT{n}{L}{message}
Define the message you send to drive output {n} low
OUT{n}{H}{message}
Define the message you send to drive output {n} high
OUT{n}{P}{message}
Define the message you send to pulse output {n} low
Here’s a summary of the commands recognised by the controller. The curly braces are used here for clarity and should
not be included in your messages. Note: do not use spaces after command words.
76 Silicon Chip
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A complete lineup of the supported models, from left to right: 5110, 6110, 3210 and 3310.
STAT – returns the current state of
the digital input and open-collector
output ports. The displayed format is
“XXXX YYYYYYYY”, where “X” and
“Y” are “H” for logic high or “L” for
logic low. The input port is displayed
first, followed by the output port, with
the most-significant bits (IN4 & OUT8)
displayed first.
For the output port, an “H” (high)
indicates the driver is switched off,
whereas an “L” (low) indicates it in
on. Note that external circuits may
invert this logic.
A response from the STAT command
looks like this: “HHLH HLHHHHHH”.
In this case, IN2 is low and IN1, IN3
& IN4 are high. On the output side,
OUT7 in on (low) and all other drivers
are off (high).
The following commands operate
only in programming mode (JP3 in):
IN{n}{L}{message} – defines the message that will be sent by the controller
when input {n} goes low. For example,
suppose you’ve connected a switch
to the first input (IN1), as shown in
Fig.7(b). When the switch is closed, the
input changes state from a logic high
(+5V) to a logic low (0V). To receive
the message “SWITCH CLOSED”, the
required command would be IN1LSWITCH CLOSED.
Of course, you can use any message
you like, as long as it’s no more than
16 characters long.
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IN{n}{H}{message} – defines the message that will be sent by the controller
when input {n} goes high. Using the
previous example, to receive the message “SWITCH OPEN” when the first
input (IN1) changes from a logic low
to a logic high, the required command
would be: IN1HSWITCH OPEN.
OUT{n}{L}{message} – defines the
message that you send to the controller
to drive output {n} low. For example,
suppose you’ve connected a relay to
OUT1, as shown in Fig.6(a). A low
on this output grounds one end of the
relay coil, switching it on. Assuming
you want to use the message “RELAY
ON”, the required command would be
OUT1LRELAY ON.
OUT{n}{H}{message} – defines the
message that you send to the controller to drive output {n} high. From
the previous example, to switch the
relay off with the message “RELAY
OFF”, the required command would
be OUT1HRELAY OFF.
OUT{n}{P}{message} – defines the
message that you send to the controller
to pulse output {n}. When the controller
receives this message, the specified output will be driven low for one second,
after which it returns high. Again from
the previous examples, to pulse a relay
on OUT1 using the message “PULSE
RELAY”, the required command would
be OUT1PPULSE RELAY. It’s important to note that when any output is
defined as a “pulsed” output, you cannot also define it with the OUT{n}{L} or
OUT{n}{H} commands.
Message syntax
Messages used in the “IN” and
“OUT” commands can be composed
from any characters in the available
repertoire but the total length must
be limited to 16 characters. Longer
messages are automatically truncated.
Spaces can be used in the body of messages but not adjacent to the command
or password strings (ie, DO NOT use
spaces after command words).
In addition, all user-defined messages, including the password, are
case sensitive. This is a trap for the
unwary; “PUMP ON” and “pump
on” are not the same message! Inbuilt
commands, on the other hand, are not
case sensitive.
Finally, your messages must not
start with the in-built command words
ACKON, ACKOFF, CHARGE, COUNT,
DIS, EN, LOGIN, LOGOUT, PASS or
STAT.
Example setup
Let’s look at a fictitious system setup
so that you can see how it all works.
The specifications for this system are
as follows:
• All commands to the controller
must be acknowledged.
• The system is to be password proNovember 2004 77
LED Indicators
Five LEDs are provided to indicate
system status; four red (LED1 - LED4)
and one green (LED5). The red LEDs
indicate error conditions, so during
normal operation, none of them
should be on.
LED1 – Comms Error: when illuminated, this LED indicates a controller
to phone communications problem.
Normally, it comes on for 6 seconds
after power on and then goes out. If
it doesn’t go out, check for problems
with the controller to phone cable connection. In addition, check that phone
security (PIN) has been disabled and
that the phone comes up ready for
use at power on.
LED2 – No Service: indicates that
the phone is not registered within
the mobile network (check signal
strength) or that an outgoing message has been disallowed. The latter
is typically due to an empty pre-paid
account.
tected. The initial password will be
“REDDWARF”.
• A relay is connected to OUT1, as
shown in Fig.6(a). The relay controls
a pump motor.
• The relay is to be switched on by
sending “PUMP ON” to the controller.
• The relay is to be switched off by
sending “PUMP OFF” to the controller.
• A switch is connected to IN1, as
shown in Fig.7(b). The switch detects
water level in a tank.
• When the switch closes, we want
to receive the message “TANK OVERFLOW”.
• When the switch opens, we want
to receive the message “LEVEL NORMAL”.
We start in programming mode by
installing a jumper on JP3 and powering up. After the “Comms Error” LED
goes out (about 6 seconds), we can
send our programming commands
from a second mobile phone, as follows:
LOGIN (the green LED illuminates)
ACKON
PASSREDDWARF
OUT1LPUMP ON
OUT1HPUMP OFF
IN1LTANK OVERFLOW
78 Silicon Chip
Note that although your service provider will block outgoing messages
when an account expires, most still
allow inbound messages for a certain
length of time.
LED3 – Send Error: when illuminated, the controller has failed to send
one or more messages. This can
be caused by a variety of problems,
including mobile network overload,
momentary signal dropout, an empty
pre-paid account, phone malfunction
or an intermittent controller to phone
connection.
LED4 – Delete Error: indicates that
the controller cannot delete a message from SIM memory. Cycle the
phone power to correct this problem.
If the error persists, then there may
be a problem with the SIM card or
phone.
LED5 – In Use: this LED comes on
when you login to the system and
goes out when you logout.
IN1HLEVEL NORMAL
This completes the programming,
so JP3 must now be removed, returning the system to operating mode.
We can now control the pump by
“SMSing” the following messages to
the controller:
PUMP ON (switch the pump on)
PUMP OFF (switch the pump off)
If our imaginary tank overflows
and the switch closes, we’ll receive
the message:
TANK OVERFLOW
When the level subsides and the
switch opens, we’ll receive the message:
LEVEL NORMAL
Now suppose we don’t want to
receive the “LEVEL NORMAL” message again. Instead, we only want to be
informed when there is an overflow.
We can disable the “LEVEL NORMAL”
notification by sending:
DISLEVEL NORMAL
To later reinstate notification, we’d
send:
ENLEVEL NORMAL
To change the password to “STARGATE” and disable acknowledgments,
we could send:
PASSSTARGATE
ACKOFF
To log out of the system and prevent
further messages being sent by the
controller:
LOGOUT (the green LED goes out)
Finally, note that all future logins
will require the current password, as
follows:
LOGINSTARGATE
Each command is sent as a separate
message. After the ACKON command,
the controller will acknowledge all
subsequent commands; you should
wait until you receive these before
sending the next command. Although
you don’t need acknowledgments
turned on, it’s the only way to be certain that the controller has received
and processed your commands. This
is much more important during normal operation, when you’re far from
the controller and can’t see what’s
happening.
The password and all user-programmed messages are stored in the
micro’s EEPROM, so you only need
to program the system once. The
same goes for the output port state. If
a power failure occurs, the last state
will be automatically reinstated when
power is restored.
You can reprogram the system at
any time simply by repeating the steps
outlined above. When you redefine a
message for any input or output, the
old message is automatically overwritten.
If you’d like to start from scratch,
then all of the previously programmed
messages can be deleted in one operation by erasing the microcontroller’s
EEPROM. This is achieved by powering off and installing a jumper on JP1.
When you power up again, all four red
LEDs come on to indicate that erasure
is complete.
Note that this operation also wipes
the password and all other parameters,
including the “SMS sent” and “SMS
received” counters.
Finally, you can erase just the password by powering off and installing a
jumper on JP2. At the next power on,
the password will be erased. Be sure to
remove JP2 when done, otherwise the
PASS command will have no effect!
Security
While it’s not strictly necessary to
program a password during setup and
testing, we recommend that you do so
before “going live”. A password is an
effective way of preventing someone
else taking control of the module
without your knowledge.
siliconchip.com.au
Microcontroller Programming
If you’re building this project from
a kit, then the microcontroller (IC1)
will have been programmed and you
can ignore the following information.
Alternatively, if you’ve sourced all the
components separately, then you’ll
need to program the microcontroller
yourself.
A 10-way header (CON5) has
been included on the PC board for
connection to an “in-system” type
programmer. We described a suitable
low-cost programmer in the October
2001 edition of SILICON CHIP. Kits for
the programmer are currently available from Altronics (Cat. K-2885), on
the web at www.altronics.com.au.
Note that if you are using this
particular programmer, the “Atmel
AVR ISP” software described in the
instructions is no longer available. A
suitable alternative, named “PonyProg”, is available free from www.
lancos.com. Set up PonyProg for the
“AVR ISP (STK200/300)” parallel port
interface as described in the included
documentation for compatibility with
the programmer.
Some readers may also be familiar
with the more recent “AVR ISP Serial Programmer”, described in the
October 2002 edition. This newer
programmer will do the same job
but connects to your PC via a serial
(rather than parallel) port. Kits for
this programmer are available from
Jaycar Electronics (Cat. KC-5340) –
see www.jaycar.com.au
As published, the AVR ISP Serial
Programmer can successfully program the AT90S8515 microcontroller.
However, to program many of the
newer generation micros, including
the ATMega8515, the code in the
programmer’s on-board micro must
first be updated. An update is available
from the SILICON CHIP web-site.
Once you have a suitable programmer, together with the necessary
cables and Windows software to drive
Once you’ve successfully logged in,
the controller will only accept messages from your mobile phone number.
Messages from all other numbers are
simply ignored. An exception to this is
the LOGIN command itself, which can
siliconchip.com.au
it, all you need to complete the job is
a copy of the microcontroller program
for the SMS Controller. This can be
downloaded from our web site in a
file named “SMS.ZIP”.
“SMS.ZIP” contains the file “SMS.
HEX”, which needs to be programmed into the micro’s program
(FLASH) memory. Just follow the
instructions provided with the programmer and software to complete
the task.
Fuse bits
We’ve specified either AT90S8515-8
or ATMega8515-16 microcontrollers
for this project. Although it has many
improvements over its predecessor,
the ATMega8515 is a pin-for-pin
replacement for the AT90S8515. In
fact, we’ve tested this project with
both devices to ensure compatibility.
The only additional requirement
when using the ATMega8515 is to
ensure that the fuse bits are correctly programmed (see Figs.10 &
11). The default fuse settings in the
AT90S8515 are OK and should not
be altered.
The AT90S8515 & ATMega8515
Fig.10: if you’re programming your
own ATMega8515 micro, you must
also program the fuse bits. Here’s
how they’re configured in AVR
Prog, as used with the AVR ISP
Serial Programmer. Once you’ve set
all of the options exactly as shown,
click on the “Write” button.
micros are both stocked by Jaycar.
The ATMega8515 is also available
from Dontronics, on the web at www.
dontronics.com
Fig.11: the parallel port programmer (October 2001) uses PonyProg, which
has an entirely different fuse configuration menu. Again, copy this example
and hit the “Write” button. Don’t be tempted to experiment with different fuse
settings unless you know exactly what you’re doing, as certain combinations
can render the micro inoperable!
be issued from any mobile number at
any time, regardless of whether you’re
already logged in or not. This allows
you to regain control of the system
using a second phone should your
SC
current phone be lost or stolen.
Credits
Thanks go to the gnokii team, who
kindly published details of their work
with the Nokia serial bus protocols.
You’ll find their web site at: www.
gnokii.org
November 2004 79
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions from
readers are welcome and will be paid for at standard rates.
Low coolant alarm
for Falcon EF & EL
Many vehicles have some sort of
coolant high-temperature warning
gauge or lamp. However, a water
level switch is the best detector of
sudden coolant loss, if catastrophic
engine damage is to be avoided.
Ford Falcon GLi EF and EL models have provision for installation
of a low-coolant sensor in the surge
tank. The Fairmont and Fairlane,
which have the sensor as standard,
operate an instrument panel warning light via the instrumentation
computer. However, to retrofit this
to other models, a simple electronic
interface is required.
The proprietary Ford magnetic
level switch (Fig.2) measures 180Ω
at correct (high) water level and
1380Ω at low water. These resistances are too high to operate typical
automobile 85Ω relay coils, which
draw about 150mA at 13.8V DC.
To solve this problem, a simple
transistor circuit can be used to
One-second
darkroom ticker
An audible 1-second ticker is
80 Silicon Chip
buffer the output from the level
switch, as shown in Fig.1.
D1 ensures that the circuit does
not prematurely trigger with high
battery voltages, while LED1 provides low water indication. The
latter should be sufficiently bright
under most daylight conditions. Q1
& Q2 can be any general-purpose
small-signal switching transistors.
Modern vehicles perform a selfcheck of the warning lights when the
ignition is first switched on. Ideally,
a fail-safe test of the water level
circuit should also occur but in this
case, the magnetic switch is always
closed. That’s the reason for pushbutton “test” switch S2 – it turns
Q1, Q2 and LED 1 on when pressed
to show that the circuit is working.
It’s not fail-safe but satisfactory if
you remember to occasionally press
the switch.
All components except the LED
and S2 can be built on a tag strip,
which can then be mounted behind
the clock panel. The panel facia
is drilled to take a suitable rubber
grommet or bezel to accommodate
the LED. The circuit operates from
10-15V, which is taken from the
fused side of the ignition circuit.
The Ford sensor kit includes
an “O” ring seal and locking nut.
Before removing the proprietary
electrical connector, thoroughly
test the sensor and circuit by moving the float up and down. This is
important, as Ford will not refund
a damaged or modified unit!
Obviously, the surge tank has
to be drained below the threaded
mounting point and a hole cut
through this existing mount with
a hole saw. Take care not to damage the threads. Retrieve all swarf
to prevent pipe blockages. Refill
with correct coolant and check for
leaks under normal engine working
conditions.
Warning: header and surge tanks
operate at pressures in excess of
100kpa (15psi) and up to 125°C
using 33% Glycol coolant!
Robert Gott,
Toowoomba, Qld. ($30)
easier to use in the darkroom than
a visible clock. It enables the photographer to watch what he or she is
doing when making test strips or the
final print, rather than watching the
clock. This device provides those
ticks and is easily constructed.
Begin by extracting the circuit
board from a discarded quartz
clock and disconnect the coil. The
accompanying circuit shown at
left can then be connected to the
coil pads.
The coil outputs are normally
“high”, pulsing “low” for 30ms
every two seconds in an alternate
fashion. The two diodes (D1 & D2)
perform an “OR” function, pulling
the base of Q1 low briefly once every
second. Each low pulse switches Q1
off and Q2 on, briefly sounding the
piezo buzzer.
And there’s your 1-second ticker!
A. J. Lowe,
Bardon, Qld. ($30)
siliconchip.com.au
CONTRIBUTE
AND WIN!
We pay good money for each of
the “Circuit Notebook” contributions published in SILICON
CHIP. But now there’s an even
better reason to send in your
circuit idea: each month, the
best contribution published
will win a superb Peak Atlas
LCR Meter valued at $195.00.
So don’t keep that brilliant
circuit secret any more: sketch
it out, write a brief description
and send it to SILICON CHIP
and you could be a winner!
You can either email your idea
to silchip<at>siliconchip.com.
au or post is to PO Box 139,
Collaroy, NSW 2097.
Simpler
PC power-up
Here is an even simpler alternative to the auto power-up of ATX
PCs mentioned in the June 2004
issue; it requires no parts at all!
In ATX PCs, the motherboard controls
the power supply by switching the
“PS_ON” signal high (+5V) to enter
standby mode or low (0V) for normal
operation. The “PS_ON” signal appears on pin 14 of the motherboard’s
power supply connector, as shown on
the accompanying diagram.
To prevent the power supply from
entering standby mode, the “PS_ON”
signal can be strapped permanently
low. This can be achieved by cutting
the track leading to pin 14 of the connector on the motherboard. A wire
link can then be soldered between
siliconchip.com.au
pin 14 and pin 15 (“COM”) of the
connector.
If you don’t want to modify your
motherboard, you may be able to
remove the respective pin from the
rear of the power supply connector
housing and splice it into one of the
“COM” return wires.
Obviously, this will disable standby
functionality completely, including
front-panel power button control. This
is great for auto power-up of servers
on resumption of power after a UPS
low-battery shutdown. I have my file
server in the roof at home and this
saves getting the ladder out after the
all too frequent power failures.
Before getting the tools out, it pays
to check that your motherboard does
not already have provision for automatic power-up when mains power
is applied. This might be in the form
of a jumper or settings in the BIOS,
as detailed in “Mailbag” on page 4 of
the September 2004 issue.
Tarek Heiland,
via e-mail. ($20)
November 2004 81
Circuit Notebook – continued
Micro timer with
LED readout
This circuit measures short duration events ranging from 10µs to
655ms, in 10µs increments. It has
two logic-level (TTL) inputs that
can be used to measure the high or
low time of a pulse, or the time difference between two pulses.
Applications include measuring
the execution time of a microcontroller program, the time difference
between output signals in a circuit,
or the changeover time in switches
& relays. It is particularly useful for
measuring one-off events that can be
difficult to catch on a scope.
The circuit uses three 7-segment
common-cathode LED displays for
the readout. Two individual LEDs
indicate whether the reading is in
microseconds or milliseconds, with
the software automatically selecting
the correct range.
The circuit requires +5V at approx. 25mA in standby and 100mA
with all 18 segments turned on. In
82 Silicon Chip
many cases, this can be sourced
from the circuit under test.
A PICAXE microcontroller measures the length of high-going pulses
applied to pin 11. This pin is driven
by the output of a 74LS86 XOR gate
(IC2a). Two 74LS04 inverters (IC1a
& IC1f) feed the XOR gate and act as
buffers for the two inputs. Additionally, one of the inputs had a second
inverter that can be switched in or
out of the circuit with S2.
Timing starts as soon as the signals applied to the two inputs differ,
generating a high-going pulse on pin
11 of the micro. When both inputs
again match, timing stops and the
pulse length is displayed. Timing is
also terminated if the pulse width
exceeds the maximum measurement period (0.65s).
When only one input is required,
the signal should be applied to input 2 and input 1 grounded. LED3
indicates the state of the signal
on the PICAXE input. Prior to the
measurement, it should be off. If
not, toggle switch S2 to invert the
signal. The switch therefore allows
the measurement of both high and
low-going pulses.
Referring now to the program listing, the PICAXE pulsin command
is used to measure the pulse high
time, which is stored in the variable
word w5. This part of the program
loops until a value greater than zero
is detected.
Measurement is in 10µs steps,
so when the number 1 is returned,
it corresponds to a time of 10µs.
Be aware that a 43µs pulse will be
read as a 4 and displayed as 40µs.
This loss of precision only occurs in
measurements under 1ms. Measurements over 1ms are correct.
When a pulse is detected, w5
is tested to see if it is greater than
99 (990µs). If not, simple division
splits the first 2 digits into b1 and
b2. The “µs” indicator (LED2) is
then turned on by setting pin 13
(portc 2) low.
If the value is greater than 99, the
software jumps to the “ms:” section.
First, the “ms” indicator (LED1) is
siliconchip.com.au
turned on by setting pin 13 (portc 2)
high. Next, a check is made to see if
w5 is less than 99ms. If so, there must
be a decimal place, so the decimal
point is turned on (portc 3). Division
of the returned value occurs, with the
results in b1, b2 and b3.
If w5 is greater that 99ms, then
the “high_ms:” routine is executed.
The value in w5 is divided by 1000,
placed in b0, and the first two digits
divided into b1 and b2. To get the
third digit, b0 is multiplied by 1000
and placed in w4. Again, the results
are returned in variables b1-b3.
Finally, the results from the “decode:”, “ms:” or “high_ms:” sections
are displayed on the readout by the
“display:” routine. This part of the
program loops back on itself, so that
the last measurement is held on the
display until the reset switch (S1) is
pressed.
Seven of the PICAXE-18X’s dedicated output pins (out1 - out7) are
used to drive the segments in each
of the displays via 150Ω currentlimiting resistors. The value for each
digit is stored in the variables b1,
b2 & b3, as described above. Using
the lookup command, the program
converts these values into a binary
pattern needed to illuminate the
correct segments. The result is then
written to the output port using the
pins command.
As the anode pins of all three displays share the same seven output
lines, a multiplexing technique is
used to sequentially enable each
display for 3-5ms at a time. This is
achieved in the circuit by turning
on transistors Q1, Q2 & Q3 in turn,
grounding the common-cathode pins
of the displays. Three portc output
pins drive the transistors via 1.8kΩ
biasing resistors.
A secondary use for this circuit and
software is as the basis for any project
where 7-segment readouts need to be
driven by a PICAXE. This is achieved
simply by omitting the input circuit
and indicator LEDs. Also, delete the
program lines prior to the “display:”
routine.
In its present form, the “display:”
routine will drive three 7-segment
displays, though a fourth is easily
added.
Brett Cupitt
Ashfield, NSW. ($60)
siliconchip.com.au
'Pulse length measurement and display for PICAXE-28X
'Registers,b10,b11 (w5) = pulse length
'b5 = 7 segment display, segment config data
'b0 = temporary/working register
'b1-b4 = digits to be displayed; b1=MSB, b3=LSB
init:
let w5=0
'clear w5 value
measure:
pulsin 0,1,w5
if w5>0 then decode:
goto measure:
'pulse length measure routine
'read pulse length on input 0 into w5
'if we have a reading, process it
'loop if no value
decode:
if w5>99 then ms:
low portc 2
let b1=w5/10
let b2=w5//10
let b3=0
goto display:
'are we measuring us or ms
'if its a value in ms, go to ms section
'OK, its a value in us, turn us LED on
'MSB
'2nd digit
'LSB
'now display it
ms:
high portc 2
if w5>9999 then high_ms
high portc 3
let b0=w5/100
let b1=b0/10
let b2=b0//10
let b3=w5//100/10
goto display:
'turn ms LED on
'is it a big or little number?
'decimal point on
'get the 1st 2 digits
'MSB
'2nd
'LSB
'now display it
high_ms:
let b0=w5/1000
let b1=b0/10
let b2=b0//10
let w4=b0*1000
let w4=w5-w4
let b3=w4/100
'get 1st 2 digits
'get MSB
'get 2nd digit
'calculate the 1000’s
'take these away from the total
'the hundreds are left, get the MSB
display:
'start of data display routine
lookup b3,($7e,$0C,$B6,$9E,$CC,$DA,$FA,$0E,$FE,$DE),b5
low portc 6
'turn off MSB
let pins=b5
'output 7 segment display sequence
high portc 4
'turn on LSB
pause 6
'hold for 6ms
lookup b2,($7e,$0C,$B6,$9E,$CC,$DA,$FA,$0E,$FE,$DE),b5
low portc 4
'clear LSB
let pins=b5
'output 7 segment display sequence
high portc 5
'turn on 2nd digit
pause 4
'hold for 4ms
lookup b1,($7e,$0C,$B6,$9E,$CC,$DA,$FA,$0E,$FE,$DE),b5
low portc 5
'turn off 2nd digit
if b1=0 then display:
'blank leading zeroes
let pins=b5
'output 7 segment display sequence
high portc 6
'turn on MSB
pause 4
'hold for 4ms
goto display:
'cycle
November 2004 83
Circuit Notebook – continued
Jeff M
is this monegal
winner onth’s
Peak At of the
las L
Meter CR
84 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Water pump
monitor
' Water Pump Controller v1.00
' PICAXE-08
This circuit is designed to stop a
fresh water pump from running too
long. When you live on the land, your
water supply is stored in tanks and you
tend to be more vigilant about water
use. If, for example, a pipe ruptures or
a tap is left open, loss of pressure in
the line will cause the pump to start.
If the owner does not know this or is
away, then the pump could empty a
full tank within a short time.
The project was conceived when
a water pipe burst while I was away
for the weekend. Luckily, a neighbour
noticed the water spout and shut the
pump off. If the tank had emptied that
would have been bad enough but the
cost of a burnt-out pump would have
been much worse.
Another use is as a timer for watering the garden. Pick a time and turn
on the tap. This unit will shut off the
pump and sound an alarm at the end
of the selected time. Perhaps you have
teenagers that like to take long showers. Set the time to 10 minutes and
watch them complain!
Five different times are available
and these can be altered to suit your
needs by editing the microcontroller
program. To reset the pump after a time
out, simply press the reset button for
two seconds.
The circuit works by detecting the
vibrations from the pump while it
is running. When the pump starts, a
timer is started and after the set time
has elapsed the pump will be shut off
and an alarm sounded.
If the pump you have is quite powerful, pressure in the line can build up
high enough to stop the pump. If a tap
is still open, the pump will start again
when the pressure drops. The software
takes all this into consideration and
is not fooled by the pump switching
on and off. The pump must be off for
more than 20 seconds for the program
to reset the timer and think that the tap
has been closed.
A PICAXE-08 microcontroller runs
the whole show. It knows the pump
is running because a piezo sensor is
physically mounted on the pump. Motor vibrations excite the piezo sensor,
generating a small AC voltage across
its terminals. This signal is amplified
continued next page
start:
symbol cntr = b2
symbol time = w0
symbol pump = 2
symbol bell = 0
symbol reset = pin3
siliconchip.com.au
one:
time = 900
return
begin:
low pump
cntr = 0
main_lp:
if pin4 = 0 then run
goto main_lp
run:
pause 2000
if pin4 = 1 then main_lp
gosub read_time
'make sure pump is enabled
'clear the “pump off time” counter
'if pin 4 goes low the pump is running
'debounce the pump for 2 seconds
'if pin4 = 1 then false start
'read the “time set switch”
time_loop:
time = time - 1
if time = 0 then alarm
if pin4 = 1 then is_pump_stopped 'pump off for > 20 secs?
cntr = 0
goto all_ok
is_pump_stopped:
pause 100
if pin4 = 0 then all_ok
cntr = cntr + 1
if cntr = 20 then begin
'pump debounce delay
'if pump still on the continue
'count seconds pump is off
'if > 20 secs put system in standby
all_ok:
pause 1000
goto time_loop
alarm:
high pump
loop:
pulsout bell,50
pause 300
pulsout bell,50
if reset = 0 then begin
pause 3000
goto loop
'disable the pump
'sound the buzzer
'sound the buzzer again
'if reset switch pressed, reset system
'This routine looks at the select time switch (S1)
'and loads required value into “time” variable
read_time:
readadc 1,b0
if b0 > 30 then four
time = 5400
return
four:
if b0 > 55 then three
time = 2700
return
three:
if b0 > 83 then two
time = 1800
return
two:
if b0 > 110 then one
time = 1200
return
November 2004 85
Circuit Notebook – continued
Reducing the effective mains voltage
Would you like to use a particular power transformer in an amplifier or
some other project you’re building but its secondary voltage is just a little too
high? Or perhaps you have an imported piece of equipment with a power
transformer rated for a mains voltage of 220V, so it gets too hot and bothered
running from 240V? It’s easy to solve these and similar problems by using a
standard off-the-shelf low voltage transformer as a DIY autotransformer, to
reduce the effective mains voltage fed to your equipment.
The idea is to connect some or all of the secondary winding of the extra
transformer in series with the mains voltage fed to your equipment, with its
polarity chosen so that its voltage subtracts from the 240V input (see circuit
A). Here a standard transformer with a 12V-0-12V secondary winding is connected with the full secondary in series with the active output lead, so the
effective output voltage becomes 240V - 24V, or 216V. This exact arrangement
would be fine for any application where you need to reduce the mains voltage
for equipment by about 10%, to make its power transformer run cooler or to
bring its secondary voltage down so your power supply electros can be run
within their ratings.
Of course, if you don’t need to reduce the mains voltage by a full 10%,
you could use only half the secondary winding connected in series with the
active output lead. This will give an output voltage of 240V - 12V, or 228V
(a reduction of 5%). Or you could use a transformer with a multi-tapped
secondary voltage, which would allow you to reduce the output voltage in
steps of 1.5V or 3V.
When you’re choosing the transformer for this kind of use, make sure that
its secondary winding is rated to handle the full-load primary current of the
main power transformer in the equipment it’s to be used with. So if your amplifier has a 300VA power transformer, for example, its full-load primary current
will be around 1.25A (300/240V). In this case, you’d pick a mains-reduction
transformer with a secondary winding rated to handle 1.5A or 2A and with a
voltage equal (or close) to the mains voltage reduction you want.
Can you use the same kind of transformer to step up the effective mains
voltage by 10% or so? Yes, simply by connecting its secondary winding (or a
part of it) in series with the active mains lead with its polarity reversed, so the
secondary voltage adds to the output instead of subtracting. This is illustrated
in circuit B, where the same transformer is connected with half its secondary
in series, to add 12V to the mains input and deliver an output of 252V.
Note that because both of these circuit configurations use the additional transformer as an autotransformer, they do not provide any
isolation. For safety reasons, fit the transformer in a sturdy metal box,
and connect both the box and the transformer frame to mains earth.
SILICON CHIP.
86 Silicon Chip
Water pump monitor:
continued from page 85
by op amp IC2a, which is set for a gain
of about 85. From here, the signal is
rectified by a diode pump circuit and
then compared with the voltage on the
wiper of VR1 by op amp IC2b. When
the voltage on pin 5 exceeds that on
pin 6, the output of the op amp swings
high, turning on Q3. This turns on the
LED and pulls pin 3 of the micro (IC1)
to a logic low level via D4.
Next, the micro reads the voltage on
pin 6 as selected by S1. As this pin is
an ADC (analog-to-digital converter)
input, the voltage read will vary according to the position of the switch.
The result is used by the program to
select one of five times from a look-up
table stored in memory.
The pump “run” timer now starts
and if the signal on pin 3 remains
low (pump on) for longer than the
selected time period, the micro drives
pin 7 high to switch on Q2, sounding
the alarm. More importantly, it also
drives pin 5 high, switching on Q1
and energising the relay, which in turn
opens the normally-closed contacts to
disconnect the pump motor.
To reset the pump, just press the
reset button (S2). The pump will now
start again because there will be no
pressure in the line. Once pressure
has built up again the pump will stop,
assuming you have turned off the offending tap or fixed the fault with the
lines.
The five selectable times are determined by the number stored in the
“time” variable. Each unit equals one
second. For example, to set a time of
30 minutes, the number 1800 would
be used. As it stands, the program
has been set for 90, 45, 30, 20 and 15
minutes.
When mounting the piezo sensor,
make sure that it is physically touching the pump. Most pumps have
removable end plates. The disc can
be inserted between the end plate and
the pump body.
Any single-plate piezo transducer
can be used for the job. Many piezo
transducers come with a plastic surround. Remove the disc by prising it
out of the surround before mounting.
Oatley Electronics sells discs that are
ideal for this application.
Jeff Monegal,
North Maclean, Qld.
siliconchip.com.au
PRODUCT SHOWCASE
New look “ergonomic” digital multimeters
Tenma have released
a new range of ergonomic and modern-looking
digital multimeters.
The range includes
the 72-7720 (pictured),
a full function multimeter offering a variety
of ranges for every service application and
meeting 1000V CAT II
standards.
A rugged overmoulded housing stands up to
the daily rigors of field
service use and large
backlit LCD display is
easily read from several
feet away.
Measurements include AC/DC
voltage, AC/DC current, resistance
and capacitance. The 3-1/2 digit,
1999- count display features
22mm digits for easy at-aglance reading.
Additional features include continuity buzzer,
data hold, full icon display,
sleep mode and low battery
display.
Standard test leads are
included, along with separate short leads for accurate
capacitance checking, a 9V
battery and owners manual.
The multimeter is distributed by Farnell InOne (order
code 743-0582).
Contact:
Farnell InOne
PMB 6, Chester Hill NSW 2162
Tel: 1300 361 005 (NZ 0800 90 80 80)
Website: www.farnellinone.com
World’s first large-screen OLED display
Seiko Epson Corporation has used
its original inkjet printing technology
to successfully develop the world’s
first large-screen (40-inch) full-color
organic light-emitting diode (OLED)
display prototype.
Self-luminescent OLED displays,
which offer outstanding viewing characteristics, including high contrast,
wide viewing angle and fast response
times, are widely seen as the leading
candidate for the next generation of thin,
lightweight displays.
One of the major obstacles to their
realisation, however, has been the difficulty of forming organic layers on
large-sized TFT (thin film transistor)
siliconchip.com.au
substrates.
Epson has been actively working to develop and commercialise
next-generation OLED displays.
The company, a leader in inkjet
printers, has developed an original inkjet process for depositing
organic layers on large-size TFT
substrates.
By establishing an OLED
display manufacturing system
and process that can handle
oversized substrates, Epson has
beaten a path to large-size OLED
displays, as well as to lower cost small
and medium-sized panels cut from
larger TFT substrates.
Epson believes that the characteristics of OLED displays make them
the ideal device for entertainment
applications, whether in equipment
for the road or living room.
The company is gearing up towards
commerial production in 2007.
Contact:
Seiko Epson Corp
Locked Bag 2238 North Ryde BC1670
Tel: (02) 8899 3666 Fax:(02) 8899 3777
Website: www.epson.co.jp
Hard-to-find wireless
LAN adapters/pigtails
Microgram has a range of normally-hard-to-get adapters and pigtails
for wireless LAN applications.
Included are:
Reverse SMA to type N female
adapter (Cat No. 15154-14, rrp
$27.00). Connects the majority of
access points directly to low-loss
(LMR-400) antenna cable
I.Pex MHF to N female pigtail
(Cat No. 9191-14; rrp $35.00) These
connects a mini PCI 802.11a/g card
to an N female connector. Consists
of an I.PEX MHF series plug, also
known as U.FL (Hirose), to N female
bulkhead mount.
Male N to reverse F MMCX pigtail (Cat No. 9219-14; rrp $30.00)
– connects 200mw PCMCIA wLAN
cards to low loss (LMR-400) antenna cable.
Wireless RF adapter set (Cat No.
9211-14 RF; rrp $239). Need an RF
adapter? Make the one you need.
There are two by 16 different connectors that can be assembled in
any combination.
Contact:
Microgram Computers
1/14 Bon Mace Cl, Berkeley Vale 2261
Tel: (02) 4389 8444 Fax: (02) 4389 8388
Website: www.microgram.com.au
AUDIO MODULES
broadcast quality
Manufactured in Australia
Harbuch Electronics Pty Ltd
9/40 Leighton Pl. HORNSBY 2077
Ph (02) 9476-5854 Fx (02) 9476-3231
November 2004 87
Preamp kit, sinewave
inverter from DSE
Dick Smith Electronics have submitted their version of the Balanced Mic
Preamp with 3-band equaliser (August
04 SILICON CHIP).
The kit is quite different in appearance from that published – it’s housed
in a black instrument case, for example
– but is electrically identical.
The case is silk-screened and prepunched front and back, making assembly very simple and giving a very
professional result.
The kit (K7219) retails for $59.87
The other item of note is a 300W True
Sinewave Inverter (M5113) which, as
its name suggests, supplies 230V AC,
50Hz from a 12V DC source.
Many cheap inverters provide
chopped or modified DC output – and
many electronic devices do not like
this one little bit! The output of this
inverter however is a true sinewave
(very close to that of a normal mains
supply). It will therefore operate most
240V equipment (within its 300W
output limit). It has two standard 240V
outlets on the front panel.
The high-efficiency inverter has
overload protection and low battery
warning.
It retails for $294.00 and is available from all DSE stores, PowerHouse
stores and via on-line and mail orders.
Contact:
Dick Smith Electronics (all stores)
Reply Paid 500, PO Box 500,
Regents Park DC NSW 2143.
Tel: 1300 366 644 Fax: (02) 9642 9155
Website: www.dse.com.au
88 Silicon Chip
Special offer on Altronics pro-quality cans
Altronics distributors were
so happy with the quality
and performance of their
new CD-90 studio quality
headphones they sent us
a pair to try out . . . and
they do live up to their
claims.
As well as being
exceptional performers,
suitable for use as studio
monitors or high
fidelity music appreciation,
these lightweight ’phones are extremely comfortable, with earpieces
that can swivel through both axes.
With Neodymium magnets in the
50mm drivers, they have a frequency response of 100Hz to 30kHz with
a rated SPL of 100dB.
Nominal impedance
is 32W.
For November and Dec e m b e r, A l t r o n i c s
stores and mail/online
orders are offering
these headphones (Cat
C9014) at a special price
for SILICON CHIP readers:
$90.00 instead of the
usual $99.00. Don’t forget
to tell them you saw the
’phones in SILICON CHIP!
Contact:
Altronics Distributors
Box 8350, Perth Business Centre 6849
Tel: 1300 797 007 Fax: (08) 9428 2187
Website: www.altronics.com.au
European-styled LCD TVs from Baumann Meyer
It’s not a name you’d instantly
recognise but for the past few years
Baumann Meyer has been building a
reputation as a supplier of stylish and
technologically advanced LCD televisions to the Australian market.
The company has now released
what is arguably the most stylish and
distinctively European looking 66cm
(26inch) widescreen (1280 x 768 pixels) LCD television - the DT-2600. In
airbrushed aluminium surrounds, the
new Baumann Meyer DT-2600 LCD
television features a 96 channel multizone analog tuner, plus matching SD
set top box to receive the best in both
analog and digital transmissions.
The DT-2600 has a 500:1 contrast
ratio and enhanced brightness (450cd)
that translates into picture detail
and colour brilliance that
makes for the most realistic
and natural picture colour
available.
The built-in 12W stereo
amplifier can be set for stereo,
pseudo stereo and surround
via its 2-channel output.
Video features include, Teletext, Digital Action Freeze,
Picture-in-Picture mode, and
PC compatibility. For connection to the latest in a/v
equipment, the DT-2600 offers
RGB via SCART, Component, S-Video,
Composite video/audio and RF.
With its centre of gravity strategically centred to offer a very stable
footprint, it’s suitable for coffee table
and side table placement as well as
wall mounted.
Available at selected retailers, the
DT-2600 has a recommended retail
price of $3999 (includes digital Set
Top Box).
The DT-2600 is just one in the range
of Baumann Meyer’s lifestyle LCD TVs.
Other models include the 80cm (32
inch) widescreen at $4999 for release
in October, the 51cm (20 inch) WTP20B2 at $1850, and the 38cm (15 inch)
WTP-15B2 at $950.
Contact:
Baumann Meyer
PO Box 594, Balgowlah NSW 2093
Tel: 1300 656 369 Fax: (02) 9977 6007
Website: www.baumannmeyer.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
SILICON CHIP WebLINK
How many times have you wanted to access a company’s website but cannot remember their site name?
Here's an exciting new concept from SILICON CHIP: you can access any of these organisations instantly by going to the
SILICON CHIP website (siliconchip.com.au), clicking on WebLINK and then on the website graphic of the company you’re
looking for. It’s that simple. No longer do you have to wade through search engines or look through pages of indexes – just
point’n’click and the site you want will open!
Your company or business can be a part of SILICON CHIP’s WebLINK . For one low rate you receive a printed entry each
month on the SILICON CHIP WebLINK page with your home page graphic, company name, phone, fax and site details plus
up to 50 words of description– and this is repeated on the WebLINK page on the SILICON CHIP website with the link of
your choice active. Get those extra hits on your site from the right people in the electronics industry – the people who
make decisions to buy your products. For information, call BENEDICTUS SMITH Pty Ltd today on (02) 9211 9792
JED designs and manufactures a range of
single board computers (based on Wilke Tiger
and Atmel AVR), as well as LCD displays and
analog and digital I/O for PCs and controllers.
JED also makes a PC PROM programmer and
RS232/RS485 converters.
Jed Microprocessors Pty Ltd
We endeavour to provide a range of
technical books of interest to the Radio
Amateur as well as electronics enthusiasts,
at competitive prices. Special discounts are
offered to WIA members. We are the only
bookshop of this type in Australia.
Tel:(02) 9689 2417 Fax: (02) 9633 1525
Our website is updated daily, with over
5,500 products available through our
secure online ordering facility.
Features include semiconductor data
sheets, media releases, software
downloads, and much more.
For everything in radio control for aircraft,
model boats and planes, etc. We also carry
an extensive range of model flight control
modules including GPS, altitude and speed,
interfaces, autopilot and groundstation
controllers. More info on our website!
JAYCAR
JAYCAR ELECTRONICS
ELECTRONICS
Tel:
Tel: 1800
1800 022
022 888
888
WebLINK: www.jaycar.com.au
WebLINK:
www.jaycar.com.au
TeleLink Communications
Wireless Institute of Australia (VK2)
Tel: (03) 9762 3588 Fax: (03) 9762 5499
WebLINK: jedmicro.com.au
We specialise in providing a range of
Low Power Radio solutions for OEM’s to
incorporate in their wireless technology
based products. The innovative range
includes products from MK Consultants, the
world-renowned specialist manufacturer.
Tel:(07) 4934 0413 Fax: (07) 4934 0311
WebLINK: telelink.com.au
WebLINK: wiansw.org.au/bookshop/
Silvertone
Silvertone Electronics
Electronics
Tel:(07) 4639
1100
Tel/Fax:
(02)Fax:
9533(07)4639
3517 1275
WebLINK:
www.silvertone.com.au
WebLINK:
silvertone.com.au
International satellite TV reception in your
home is now affordable. Send for your free
info pack containing equipment catalog,
satellite lists, etc or call for appointment
to view. We can display all satellites from
76.5° to 180°.
Av-COMM Pty Ltd
Tel:(02) 9939 4377 Fax: (02) 9939 4376
Tel:(02)
WebLINK: avcomm.com.au
WebLINK:
avcomm.com.au
A 100% Australian owned company supplying
frequency control products to the highest
international standards: filters, DIL’s, voltage,
temperature compensated and oven controlled
oscillators, monolithic and discrete filters and
ceramic filters and resonators.
Hy-Q International Pty Ltd
Tel:(03) 9562-8222 Fax: (03) 9562 9009
WebLINK: www.hy-q.com.au
.
Elexol offers SILICON CHIP readers 10% discount on I/O USB add-on boards
Last month we introduced
SILICON CHIP readers to the
new range of USB modules
from Elexol.
The Elexol USBIO24 V3
is the second generation
of a low-cost integrated
module for the input and/
or output of digital signals
from a computer system by
connection to the USB port.
The USB port also supplies
power to the module.
siliconchip.com.au
Elexol now also have a range of
add-on boards for the I/O module,
significantly extending an already
very versatile system.
Included in the range are an
opto-isolated input board, aconnector/LED board, a switch/push
button board and a 50-pin IDC
connector board.
All can be viewed on the
Elexol website, www. elexol.
com.au/IO_Modules, along
with their specifications.
Even more importantly, if you order
any of these boards via their online
store and quote the code SIL1104,
Elexol will give you 10% off for the
month of November.
While you’re on line, check out
Elexol’s other goodies!
Contact:
Elexol Pty Ltd
PO Box 5972, Bundall Qld 4217
Tel: (07) 5574 3988 Fax: (07) 5574 3833
Website: www.elexol.com.au
November 2004 89
Here’s how to add infrared remote
control to all your PICAXE-08M projects!
PICAXE infrared
remote control
By Clive Seager
I
N THE SEPTEMBER 2004 issue,
we showed you how to assemble
“Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer”. Rudolph is a simple Christmas
decoration with flashing LEDs that
can play a variety of tunes, including
mobile phone ring tones. As promised, this month we assemble the
infrared remote transmitter and add
the receiver components to Rudolph’s
PC board.
Before we describe how to assemble
the various pieces, let’s first take a look
at the basics of infrared transmission
on the new PICAXE-08M.
Infrared remote control
The PICAXE-08M includes two
commands for sending and receiving
data over an infrared link. The infraout
command sends data on pin 7, whereas
the infrain2 command receives data
on pin 3. Data is transferred using a
simple modulation technique based
on the well-documented Sony Infrared Remote Control System (SIRCS)
protocol.
The SIRCS protocol uses a 38kHz
modulated infrared signal consisting
of a start bit (2.4ms) followed by 12
data bits (7 data bits and 5 device ID
bits). Logic level “1” is transmitted
as a 1.2 ms pulse, logic ‘0’ as a 0.6ms
pulse. Each bit is separated by a 0.6ms
gap (see Fig.1).
When used within Sony production
devices, the 5 device ID bits represent
the type of equipment (1 = TV, 2 =
video, 26 = DVD, etc). The 7 data bits
represent different commands (1 =
channel 2, 2 = channel 3, 16 = channel up, 20 = mute, etc). Within this
PICAXE project the Sony-allocated
commands are not relevant, but a
full list is provided in
the PICAXE manual for
those interested in controlling their own Sony
hardware!
Fig.1: basics of the SIRCS protocol, showing
the composition of each serial transmission.
A logic “1” is represented by a 1.2ms burst
of the 38kHz carrier, whereas a logic “0” is
represented by a shorter 0.6ms burst. Each bit
is separated by a gap of 0.6ms.
90 Silicon Chip
Sending data
To transmit infrared
data, the PICAXE command is:
infraout device,data
For example, to send
the Sony command “TV - mute”, the
command would be infraout 1,20.
Note that device should always be 1
when used in PICAXE projects and
data can only be between 0 and 127,
as the SIRCS protocol only specifies
7-bit capability.
The full program for the transmitter is shown in Fig.6. As infrared
signals are easily corrupted, the data
is actually sent 10 times to increase
reliability. This matches commercial
remote controls that tend to transmit
the data at 45ms intervals whilst the
button is held down.
Note that the program uses codes
“1”, “2” and “3” for the three switches,
but you can edit these to any number
between 0 and 127. This would be useful when you want to control multiple
units in the same room, using different
data commands for each unit.
Building the transmitter
As hinted at in September, the various tunes played by Rudolph can be
triggered remotely using an infrared
transmitter. This simple project uses
a PICAXE-08M micro, three pushbutton switches and an infrared LED
to make a complete hand-held remote,
the circuit for which appears in Fig.2.
A second visible LED is included for
user feedback.
siliconchip.com.au
Parts List
1 infrared PC board
3 miniature pushbutton switches
(S1 - S3)
1 battery clip
1 3 x AA battery holder
1 8-pin IC socket
Semiconductors
1 PICAXE-08M (IC1)
1 Vishay TSOP4838 infrared
receiver IC
1 5mm yellow LED (LED)
1 5mm infrared LED (IRLED)
Capacitors
1 4.7µF 16V PC electrolytic
Fig.2: circuit diagram for the simple infrared transmitter. As no serial link
socket is provided, the PICAXE chip must first be plugged into the “Rudolph”
PC board (described in September 2004) for programming.
Resistors (0.25W 5%)
3 10kΩ
2 330Ω
Also required (not in the kit)
Rudolph kit (part no. AXE107S)
PICAXE Programming Editor
software (v4.1.0 or later)
PICAXE download cable (part
no. AXE026)
3 x AA alkaline cells
Obtaining kits & software
The design copyright for this
project is owned by Revolution
Education Ltd. Complete kits
(Part No. AXE108S) and/or the
Vishay infrared receiver (Part No.
LED020) for this project are
available from authorised
PICAXE distributors – see
www.microzed.com.au or
phone Microzed on (02) 6772
2777.
The PICAXE Programming Editor software can be downloaded
free of charge from www.picaxe.
co.uk or ordered on CD (part no.
BAS805).
Fig.3: the overlay
diagram for the
infrared remote
transmitter. Install
the wire link (under
IC1) first, then all the
other parts, making
sure that the IC
socket is around the
right way.
Assembly is very straightforward
and should only take a few minutes.
Begin by installing a wire link in the
position indicated by a dotted line on
the overlay diagram (Fig.3). An off-cut
resistor leg is ideal for the job. Note
that as an IC socket will be mounted
over the link, it must be lying flat on
the PC board before soldering.
Install all of the resistors, switches
and IC socket next, making sure that
you have the notched (pin 1) end of
the socket around the right way.
Install the two LEDs next, noting
that the infrared LED (IRLED1) leads
must be bent at 90 degrees so that it
points away from the PC board (see
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.4: transmission range can
be increased by adding an
external transistor circuit to
drive the infrared LED.
photo). Make sure that you have the flat
(cathode) sides of the LEDs oriented
correctly. The infrared LED may be
supplied in either a “black” or “water
clear” epoxy package.
Finally, solder the battery leads to
the positions indicated after threading
through the adjacent hole. Note that
the board runs from a 4.5V (3 x AA)
battery pack – do not connect a 9V
PP3 battery!
To reduce overall size, a serial link
socket is not provided on the transmitter PC board. Therefore, the PICAXE08M chip must be programmed on
the main Rudolph PC board and then
transferred to the transmitter board.
After assembly and programming,
November 2004 91
pin and the LED, as shown in Fig.4.
Fig.5: any
PICAXE-08M
can receive
infrared
remote control
signals with the
addition of just a
few components,
as shown here.
you can check transmitter operation by
looking at the infrared LED “end-on”
through a webcam or digital camera
(such as a mobile phone camera).
Although the LED is not visible to the
naked eye, these camera are sensitive
to infrared light and so the infrared
LED will display a faint glow on the
camera screen whilst operating.
Extending transmitter range
A 330Ω resistor is used in series
with the infrared LED to limit current
flow from the PICAXE port pin to an
acceptable level. This gives a transmission range of about 4-5 metres, which
should be enough for most users.
However, infrared LEDs can typically be driven with a much higher
current, thus extending the potential
transmission range. If you need the
maximum possible range, then a
transistor driver circuit can be added
between the PICAXE infrared output
Fig.6: Transmitter Program Listing
' Wait until switch press
main:
if pin1 = 1 then tx_1
if pin2 = 1 then tx_2
if pin3 = 1 then tx_3
goto main
Legs Versus Pins
tx_1:
let b1 = 1
goto tx_ir
'Code 1
tx_2:
let b1 = 2
goto tx_ir
'Code 2
tx_3:
let b1 = 3
goto tx_ir
'Code 3
In PICAXE BASIC, “pin”
refers to a logical input or
output port number, not a
physical pin. Conversley,
physical pins are referred to
in the PICAXE documentation
as “legs”. Confused? We’re
not surprised.
When describing a PICAXE
circuit, SILICON CHIP will continue to refer to physical pins
as “pins”, just as we do for
all our projects. We’ll leave
the legs for the organic world!
(Editor.)
' Transmit code 10 times for increased reliability
tx_ir:
high 4
'visual LED on for user feedback
for b2 = 1 to 10
'send infrared code 10 times
infraout 1,b1
pause 45
next b2
low 4
'LED off
goto main
92 Silicon Chip
Receiving data
The infrared receiver portion of the
“Rudolph” circuit from last month is
reproduced in Fig.5. Any PICAXE08M project can receive infrared
remote control signals with the additional of these four components.
A Vishay TSOP4838 infrared receiver IC demodulates the 38kHz
carrier wave to give a logic output. It
also contains filters to suppress noise
signals from devices such as fluorescent lights. The block diagram of the
receiver is shown in Fig.8.
To receive infrared data, the PICAXE
command is simply: infrain2
This command waits for a valid
input signal and then stores the data
in a variable named “infra”. This variable can then be used to play different
tunes, as shown in the full receiver
program in Fig.7.
As the PICAXE-08M uses the standard SIRCS protocol, the receiver will
also work with commercial “universal” style infrared remote transmitters.
These are widely sold as “one-for-all”
replacements for use with home audio
and video equipment. All you need
to do is program them with one of the
Sony-compatible equipment codes
from the supplied list of manufacturers codes.
Rudolph upgrade
Only two parts remain to be added
to the Rudolph PC board. The receiver
IC is soldered into the “IR” position,
with the leads bent over so that it lies
flat on the board.
A 4.7µF capacitor is also added to
filter the supply, noting that the positive lead goes in as indicated by the
“+” marking on the overlay diagram.
The 330Ω and 4.7kΩ resistors should
already be installed on the board,
as they were part of the original assembly.
Finally, reprogram Rudolph with
the BASIC code listed in Fig.7, which
adds the necessary infrared remote
control functions. That done, you
should be able to choose between three
tunes using the buttons on your remote
control board!
Summary
With a minimum of external components and the new infraout and
infrain2 commands, you can add remote control capability to all of your
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.7: Receiver Program Listing
' ***** main loop *****
main:
infrain2
'debug infra
'wait until infrared signal
'optional display on screen for testing
Silicon Chip
Binders
REAL
VALUE
AT
$12.95
PLUS P
&
' ***** play tune *****
'play tune depending on light level
if infra = 3 then play_xmas
if infra = 2 then play_rudolf
if infra = 1 then play_jingle
goto main
play_jingle:
P
'internal tune Jingle Bells
play 1,3
goto main
play_silent:
play 2,3
goto main
'internal tune Silent Night
play_rudolf:
'internal tune Rudolf The Red Nosed
'Reindeer
play 3,3
goto main
play_xmas:
These binders will protect your
copies of S ILICON CHIP. They
feature heavy-board covers & are
made from a dis
tinctive 2-tone
green vinyl. They hold up to 14
issues & will look great on your
bookshelf.
H 80mm internal width
'external ring tone tune
'We Wish You a Merry Xmas
tune 3, 4,($22,$27,$67,$69,$67,$66,$24,$24,$24,$29,$69,$6B,$69,$67,
$26,$22,$22,$2B,$6B,$40,$6B,$69,$27,$24,$22,$24,$29,$26,$E7,$22,
$27,$67,$69,$67,$66,$24,$24,$24,$29,$69,$6B,$69,$67,$26,$22,$22,
$2B,$6B,$40,$6B,$69,$27,$24,$22,$24,$29,$26,$A7,$22,$27,$27,$27,
$E6,$26,$27,$26,$24,$E2,$29,$2B,$69,$69,$67,$67,$02,$22,$22,$24,
$29,$26,$E7)
goto main
H SILICON CHIP logo printed in
gold-coloured lettering on spine
& cover
H Buy five and get them postage
free!
Price: $A12.95 plus $A7 p&p per
order. Available only in Aust.
Silicon Chip Publications
PO Box 139
Collaroy Beach 2097
Or fax (02) 9979 6503; or ring (02)
9979 5644 & quote your credit
card number.
Use this handy form
Enclosed is my cheque/money order for
$________ or please debit my
Bankcard
Visa Mastercard
Card No:
_________________________________
Fig.8: this diagram reveals the basic functional blocks within the
TSOP4838 infrared receiver. As well as the actual PIN (photo) diode,
it includes amplifier, discrimination and demodulation circuits to
reconstruct the original digital data, which appears on the “OUT” pin.
Card Expiry Date ____/____
Signature ________________________
Name ____________________________
Address__________________________
PICAXE-08M projects. “Rudolph the
Red-Nosed Reindeer” demonstrates
siliconchip.com.au
how it all works, and might even be a
party favourite come Christmas! SC
__________________ P/code_______
November 2004 93
Is this one of Stan’s wind-ups?
Emergency power,
when all else fails...
B
ack in the 20th century, it used to
be said that you really knew you
were a parent when battery costs
for your kid’s toys exceeded monthly
power bills.
Fortunately, recent spectacular improvements in rechargeable technology now offer cost-effective secondary
batteries and chargers – and at keen
prices.
NiMH “AA” cell energy capacities
have near tripled from 750mAh to well
over 2000mAh since the year 2000.
It’s assumed you’ll have a nearby
mains outlet for recharging – but many
occasions arise (commuting in a peakhour train maybe) when you’re away
from such facilities but with hi tech
toys crying for a top up.
Such an occasion arose recently,
when bad weather meant a mate on
a weekend walkabout, hunting in
a nearby but isolated NZ mountain
region became hut-bound for nearly
a week – trapped by a flooded river.
Although warm and dry indoors,
the batteries in his mobile phone,
radio and torch all progressively ran
flat. Even his digital camera, intended
for the 12-pointer deer he’d hoped to
shoot, gave up!
Perhaps a solar panel would have
helped, although the scudding winter rain clouds, which caused the
flood in the first place, rather hinted
otherwise.
In despair at his “Joule less” plight,
he even took to the old trick of warming batteries in the oven and chewing
their outer casings to persuade a few
more electrons to flow…
At least he had an ultra bright white
LED torch! Let’s face it – these efficient
lighting devices have been one of the
most benevolent developments in
94 Silicon Chip
by Stan Swan
Above: the Benex Dynamo
Torch, from Jaycar, which forms
the basis of our emergency power plant.
Below, winding the handle produces
the power to charge the batteries.
siliconchip.com.au
The opened-up
torch, showing
where we “tapped
in” to the rectified
dynamo supply
(blue arrows).
It’s not difficult
to do and the full
functions of the
torch are retained.
Of course any neat output socket
could be used but simple red and
black banana types were found most
versatile – space inside the torch just
allows for these – and likely to be the
most useful with cold hands or broken
connectors.
The torch’s existing lighting circuitry remains quite unchanged, so
naturally it still operates as a very
bright and ergonomic LED torch.
Performance?
decades. But even they typically only
offer 80 hours on “lite” mode – perhaps
a week of evening use if half charged.
Yes, all very inconvenient – but
fortunately just as Search and Rescue
were being briefed the lost hunter
reappeared.
Improvise . . . or starve!
Back at civilisation, the challenge
was put to me: “Fix me up a reliable
charger, or no venison next trip”. A
past SILICON CHIP article on modified
disk drive generators sprang to mind
but their output looked limited to LED
lighting only.
Additionally, bush tramping demands near-bullet-proof devices,
otherwise rain and mud may rule over
fine engineering. Marine emergencies
further throw their own brand of cruelty and inconvenience…
Short of carrying in a generator, PV
panel and SLA gel cell, rigging a thermocouple to the fireplace or poking a
wind turbine above the bush line, just
what other ready approaches exist to
generate a few crucial watts? Digital
smoke signals?
output of a good half amp.
Impressive, although perhaps rather
optimistic unless the LEDs are pulsed
and actually draw less current!
Disassembly of the torch revealed a
sturdy brushed geared electric motor,
measured as providing about 9V DC
at some 200-300mA to a simple 12V
lamp dummy load. While not 0.5A, this
output (say 6V <at> 0.25A) hence satisfies the magical 1W energy budget our
emergency quest demands.
A 4-diode rectifier bridge on the
lamp’s PC board ensures unidirectional
generator output (along with two 0.6V
voltage drops), and soldering across two
diodes readily allows external connections to be made.
For even more efficiency you could replace the four diodes with suitably rated
Schottky diodes, with their much lower
(~0.1V) forward voltage drop. However,
these devices are fairly expensive.
Many mobile phones and UHF
transceivers now idle at just a few
milliamps on squelched receive, so
almost a 50:1 energy benefit could
result.
Typically, a minute’s winding (about
all you’d get away with on a peakhour train before dirty looks develop!)
should extend reception by about half
an hour.
Outgoing transmissions will be
power hogs, so text messages may be
the best energy investment (although a
“minutes winding for a minutes talk”
may be tolerable in an emergency).
As a bonus the 5V or so delivered
by this modified “1 Watt Wonder” can
also charge up to four normal AA or
AAA NiMH/NiCds.
You need to appreciate charging
maths – dead flat cells, of say 1200mAh
capacity, will need hours of unrealistic
winding to bring to full charge.
But even five minutes may be enough
to persuade your digital camera to snap
that trophy shot, find your dropped car
keys, phone your mates or – phew – call
the rescue chopper.
SC
I see the light!
Here’s where I got lucky: a call
to Jaycar Electronics revealed a
Swiss-designed BENEX Dynamo
LED torch – Cat ST3337 – amongst
their superb lighting range, priced
around $AU30.
Aside from the torch’s normal multiple 15,000mCd lighting options, a
sturdy handle folds out to hand charge
the unit’s internal 3.6V Li-Ion battery.
Claims that “1 minute wind-up = 30
minutes lighting” imply a 30:1 charge/
discharge ratio, so that a 20-30mA
drain LED may indicate a dynamo
siliconchip.com.au
We found a pair of banana sockets (polarised of course) with matching banana plugs
gave the best result. There’s room inside the torch for a variety of small sockets.
November 2004 95
Vintage Radio
By RODNEY CHAMPNESS, VK3UG
Those troublesome capacitors, Pt.2
Some vintage radio receivers are far more
tolerant of leaky capacitors than others. It
all depends on the circuit configuration and
the role of each individual capacitor.
L
AST MONTH, WE LOOKED at
the problems paper capacitors can
cause in vintage radios, often because
they have become electrically leaky.
Paper capacitors are troublesome and
require replacement more often than
other components, although perhaps
not as often as many people believe.
We also looked at the Healing
R401E, a vintage radio receiver that
can operate successfully with quite
leaky capacitors. This month, we take
a look at the Healing 505E, which isn’t
quite so forgiving.
The Healing 505E
As shown in Fig.2, this set is quite
different to its older brother. We’ll
start by considering capacitors C5
and C12. These are screen bypasses
and the leakage across C12 should not
be less than 20 x R4 (ie, 20 x 100kΩ)
which is equivalent to 2MΩ. If C12’s
resistance is much less than this, the
voltage on the 6BA6’s screen will be
noticeably less than intended and the
performance of the set will suffer.
By contrast, C5’s leakage can be
somewhat greater (less resistance), as
R2 is only 22kΩ.
C4 (the AGC bypass) is supplied
with AGC voltage via R7 (1MΩ) and
both the 6BE6 and 6BA6 valves receive
back bias via a combination of R7 and
R8. If C4 were to become leaky to any
extent, the bias on the valves would
A high-voltage tester is necessary for
testing capacitor leakage resistance.
96 Silicon Chip
be reduced. As a result, they would
work harder and the set could become
unstable and oscillate.
Basically, if C4 is leaky, the voltage
across R7 increases. If the leakage is
bad enough, little AGC bias will be
applied to the two valves and this will
cause distortion and other problems.
In fact, I have always considered
the AGC bypass capacitor to be a very
important. In this case, it should have
a minimum leakage resistance of 20 x
(1 + 1)MΩ, or 40MΩ (R7 and R8 are
both 1MΩ resistors).
My practice is to replace the AGC
capacitor without even testing it and I
like it to have a leakage resistance of at
least 100MΩ. In fact, I usually replace
AGC bypasses with 50V disc ceramic
capacitors. They are reliable and easily
hidden under other components.
An interesting fault
We now come to capacitor C15
which couples the audio from the detector to the first audio stage (6AV6).
The maximum voltage across this
capacitor will be no more than about
20V and yet it is rated at 600V! Note
also that the grid resistor (R11) for the
6AV6 is a 10MΩ unit.
Why so high you might ask? The
answer is that the valve itself develops
contact potential bias and the desired
bias is obtained by connecting a 10MΩ
resistor from grid to earth/cathode.
However, such a high resistance means
that the leakage across C15 must be
around 200MΩ or more, if the valve
bias is not to be upset.
Note that most multimeters will be
struggling to measure this amount of
resistance. This is a very high impedance part of the receiver circuit.
OK, I’ve said that the voltage across
this capacitor is no more than around
20V and that’s with a very strong
station tuned in. An interesting fault
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: unlike the Healing R401E, the circuit operation of the 505E model is easily upset by leaky capacitors.
shows up when this capacitor is
moderately leaky. With a relatively
weak station, everything appears to
be normal – the volume increases as
the volume control is advanced. However, when a strong station is tuned in,
the volume decreases as the volume
control is advanced and it may even
completely disappear as the control is
rotated to maximum. Now that is an
interesting fault!
Let’s see how this occurs. As shown
on Fig.1, the volume control (R6) wiper
taps off a variable amount of audio and
negative voltage relative to earth. This
variable negative voltage is applied to
the bottom end of C15, while the top
end has around -1V on it relative to
earth (ie, the contact potential bias).
Now let’s assume that the voltage
developed at the top of R6 (relative to
earth) is -15V and that the wiper is at
this position (ie, maximum volume).
Further, let’s say that the leakage resistance across C15 is RL. In operation, RL
siliconchip.com.au
and R11 will act as a voltage divider
across R6. As a result, the voltage at
the junction of C15 and R11 is [R11/
(RL + R11)] x -15V.
OK, now let’s assume that C15’s
leakage resistance (RL) is 50MΩ. By
plugging this figure into the above
equation, we get [10MΩ/(50MΩ +
10MΩ)] x -15V = -2.5V.
If this is added to the existing -1V
contact potential bias, it means that the
there could be as much as -3.5V of bias
on the 6AV6. In practice, however, the
voltage will be probably be somewhere
between -2.5V and -3.5V. But even
-2.5V is enough to cut off a 6AV6 in
this circuit, resulting in no output on
a strong signal at “full” volume!
In fact, even 100MΩ of leakage
resistance in C15 will dramatically
alter the operating conditions of the
6AV6.
Second audio coupler
Capacitor C19 – the audio coupler
Disc ceramic capacitors are ideal
for use as AGC bypasses. They are
reliable, have very low leakage
and easily hidden under other
components.
between the plate of the 6AV6 and
the grid of the following 6BV7 – also
needs to have quite low leakage (ie,
high resistance). This is necessary for
the 6BV7 to work correctly.
Resistor R13 is 470kΩ, so by my
normal rule of thumb, C19 must not
November 2004 97
Photo Gallery: General Electric Duette
Manufactured in 1934 by AWA, the “Duette” was a 5-valve reflexed
superhet receiver that was electrically equivalent to the AWA
Radiolette Model 27. The valve line-up was as follows: 78 RF amplifier, 6A7 frequency changer, 6B7 reflexed IF/audio amplifier/detector/
AVC rectifier, 42 audio output and 80 rectifier. Photo: Historical Radio
Society of Australia, Inc.
have less than 20 times this resistance
to be satisfactory – ie, about 10MΩ.
However, in this case, the rule breaks
down.
Let’s find out why. First, the plate
of the 6AV6 is at about +70V and, assuming that C19 has a leakage resistance of 10MΩ, this means that +3.3V
will be developed across R13 (this is
calculated using the same formula
listed above). This means that with
-4.5V of bias on the 6BV7’s grid and
+3.3V R13, the 6BV7 will have around
-1.2V of bias.
In reality, it will actually be higher
than this, as the valve will draw excessive current through the back bias
network. As a result, both the power
supply and the 6BV7 will be considerably overloaded and expensive
98 Silicon Chip
fireworks could easily occur.
So my rule of thumb of allowing a
resistance of 20 times the value of any
resistor associated with the capacitor
is seriously in error in this case - just
as it was with the coupling capacitor to
the first audio grid. Even if the leakage
resistance were 200 times the value of
R13, the voltage developed across R13
would still be +0.33V, which is enough
to slightly upset a high-gain short grid
base valve such as the 6BV7.
As a result, in this location, I expect
to see at least 100MΩ of leakage resistance. You can now see why I am rather
paranoid about the condition of the
audio coupling capacitors.
Other critical capacitors
C18, a 400V mica capacitor, is
intended to filter out most of the remaining 455kHz energy in the audio
amplifier. Mica capacitors are usually
quite reliable but when they do play
up, they can be difficult to fault-find.
In this position, the usual effect is
a “crackle” in the sound. Tested with
a normal multimeter, it may show no
leakage resistance and its capacitance
may be at the marked value. However,
a high-voltage tester will often detect
abnormal and varying leakage resistance across the capacitor.
C23 from the plate of the 6BV7 to
earth has the normal HT voltage applied across it plus the peak audio
voltage. This means that this capacitor
needs to be rated much higher than
the circuit’s HT voltage and about
double this voltage is the recommended figure. As a result, a 600V
paper capacitor is usually fitted here.
If its leakage resistance is relatively
low, this capacitor can get quite hot
and can go short circuit.
C17 is the RF bypass across the HT
line and has the full HT DC voltage
applied across it at all times. Theoretically, it can be very leaky and still
function OK. However, if a capacitor
is too leaky, it will behave as though
there is also a resistor inside its case.
As a result, it will heat up and this can
have a cumulative effect – as it gets
hotter, its resistance drops and so it
gets even hotter.
This can easily develop into a runaway scenario and the capacitor needs
to be replaced “pronto”.
A word of caution is needed here.
Before checking whether a capacitor
has become warm to the touch, do the
following things for your safety:
(1.) Turn the set off and remove the
power plug from the power point (if
the set is left connected to the power
point, 240VAC could still be lurking
in the receiver waiting for an unwary
finger to touch it!);
(2.) Make sure that the high-tension
(HT) voltage has disappeared (check
the HT line with your multimeter).
Only then can you can put your
“pinkie” on the insulated case of the
capacitor to check whether it has become warm or not. A time-honoured
technique is worthy of mention here
– when probing around the inside of a
set, keep one hand in your pocket. This
is particularly important when using
a test instrument on a live receiver.
Finally, C22 in the tone control
circuit can be quite leaky and will
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Polyester capacitors come in all sorts of sizes and voltage ratings. They have
low leakage (although not as good as polystyrene types), are generally very
reliable and can be easily hidden inside the cases of defunct paper capacitors.
have little effect on the operation of
the control.
In summary, unlike the older R401E
model, the Healing 505E generally
cannot tolerate leaky paper capacitors. The audio coupling capacitors in
particular are critical and these and a
number of others need to be carefully
tested. In some cases, it even pays to
replace them as a matter of course.
Replacement capacitors
A 1nF (.001µF) capacitor must have
a lot less leakage current through it
than, say, a 270nF (0.27µF) capacitor. My rule of thumb is that no paper capacitor should have less than
2MΩ leakage resistance, while a 1nF
capacitor should have at least 1020MΩ minimum leakage resistance
(as should other similar low-value
capacitors). However, it does depend
on just where it’s going to be used in
the circuit.
Some brands of capacitors were
more prone to leakage than others.
Ducon capacitors in the 1940s, 1950s
and early 1960s were notorious for
becoming leaky. UCCs were also
sometimes leaky but more commonly
became intermittent.
By contrast, the older Chanex capacitors seem to be more reliable and
some of the “moulded mud” AWAs
were OK as well, although many split
their cases.
So what caused some brands of capacitors from certain periods to have a
bad reputation? Frankly, I don’t know,
although I do have some thoughts on
siliconchip.com.au
the matter. Perhaps someone who was
employed in that part of the industry
could enlighten me.
The Philips polyester capacitors
that came onto the market in the
early 1960s were a quantum leap forward as a replacement for the paper
capacitors. Their reliability and low
leakage is well known, although I had
a polyester unit unexpectedly blow
up just recently. There was smoke
every-where from it and the resistor
that also burnt out when it failed (it
went off like bunger).
However, that’s just something that
happens sometimes and polyester
capacitors really are very reliable.
There is no doubt that valve radios
would have carried on for much
longer if they had been available
much earlier (ie, when the radios were
manufactured).
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Tel: (03) 5257 2297; Fax: (03) 5257 1773
Email: evatco<at>pacific.net.au
www.evatco.com.au
Testing capacitors
There are two test procedures that
will usually sort good paper capacitors from the bad ones. A check of
the resistance between the two terminals of the capacitor is one such
test. However, a normal multimeter
will not give a reliable indication of
the leakage resistance, as the applied
voltage will be no higher than around
9V. Instead, it must be done using a
high-voltage tester.
Altronics have such a high-voltage
tester as a kit (Cat. K-2555) and the
price is quite reasonable. It can test
capacitors for leakage at either 500V
or 1000V and is invaluable for test-
ing nearly all capacitors other than
electrolytics.
A high-voltage test will usually
show up any capacitor with a leakage
resistance of 200MΩ or less. 200V
capacitors can be tested on the 500V
range, as they usually have a peak
rating well in excess of their normal
operating voltage. Similarly, 400V
units can be tested at 500V, while
600V (or 630V) capacitors can tested
at 1000V.
Heat also has quite an effect on the
leakage resistance of a capacitor. Some
November 2004 99
earth when the capacitor was used as
a bypass – or alternatively, the end that
should connect to the lower impedance part of the circuit.
Why was that? Well, the band indicated the pigtail lead that was connected to the capacitor’s outer foil.
This outer foil (when earthed) acts as
a shield, thereby reducing RF radiation when the capacitor is used as a
bypass or filter.
Summary
A selection of mica capacitors. Mica capacitors are usually quite reliable but
when they do play up, they can be difficult to fault-find.
time ago, I salvaged all the paper capacitors from an old valve b&w TV set.
To test them, I first heated them in an
oven to about 70°C then checked them
using a conventional ohmmeter.
Did I get a shock – they had all tested
OK when cold but it was an entirely
different story after they came out of
the oven. I ended up throwing the lot
in the bin. By contrast, the polyester
capacitors I had salvaged from the
same set were quite OK.
Checking in-situ
Checking capacitors in-situ (eg, in
an old radio) involves first lifting one
end of each capacitor in turn before
checking it with the high-voltage
tester. They can also be heated with a
hair-drier so that they are warm (but
not hot) and the checks repeated. You
will soon discover whether a capacitor
is worth leaving in the set or not.
A larger-value capacitor acting as
(say) an HT RF bypass can be left in
the set after passing a leakage test. It
can then be reconnected, after which
the set can be switched on and the
HT voltage checked. If the HT is OK,
wait a few minutes, then switch the
set off and disconnect it from the
mains. Finally, check that the HT rail
has disappeared (use a multimeter)
before checking the HT bypasses
and electrolytic capacitors to see if
any are warm. If they are, it signals
that the units are too leaky and need
replacing.
Why the high voltage?
As mentioned earlier, the Healing
505E uses several high-voltage paper
capacitors in relatively low-voltage
sections of the circuit. The reason for
this is that the high-voltage units had
better insulation and therefore less
leakage (ie, higher resistance) than
low-voltage types. As a result, highvoltage capacitors were used where
low leakage was critical to the set’s
performance.
By the way, I have also found that
paper capacitors have less leakage
when only a low voltage is applied
across them. As the voltage across
them increases, so does their leakage.
“Earthy” end
A selection of polystyrene capacitors
made by Ducon. Polystyrene capacitors have extremely low leakage.
100 Silicon Chip
Paper capacitors often had a (black)
band at one end of the capacitor. This
indicated the end that should go to
(1.) The leakage resistance of a paper capacitor depends on the voltage
across it, its voltage rating, its capacitance and its temperature.
(2.) The circuit position dictates
how leaky a paper capacitor can be
and still be considered satisfactory.
Audio coupling capacitors and AGC
bypasses, in particular can have very
little leakage, with a leakage resistance
of around 100MΩ or more being the
minimum acceptable resistance. This
is to ensure that there is little or no
alteration to the operating conditions
of the part of the circuit they connect
to.
By contrast, bypass capacitors can
be quite leaky (a cathode bypass can
be down to several kilohms in some
cases and still operate satisfactorily).
However, I recommend a minimum
resistance of around 2MΩ for these
capacitors.
(3.) A capacitor’s leakage resistance
will reduce (ie, the current through it
will increase) when used in a set due
to internal heating, particularly if the
capacitor is relatively leaky. I consider
a leakage resistance of at least 1-2MΩ
to be the minimum for a large paper
capacitor but this should considerably
higher for low-value capacitors.
(4.) The circuit design will dictate
how leaky the paper capacitor can be
in certain location for the receiver to
operate normally. Note the comparison
between the Healing 505E and the
Healing R401E described last month.
(5.) To ensure authenticity, keep at
least some non-critical paper capacitors in a set. A good trick is to remove
the internals of paper capacitors and
fit polyester capacitors (which are
physically smaller) inside the cases
of the old capacitors.
That’s it on the subject of paper
capacitors. We’ll cover electrolytic,
mica and other lesser-known capacitors in a future article a little further
SC
down the track.
siliconchip.com.au
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November 2004 101
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Amplifier For TV & FM; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.4.
September 1996: VGA Oscilloscope, Pt.3; IR Stereo Headphone Link,
Pt.1; High Quality PA Loudspeaker; 3-Band HF Amateur Radio Receiver;
Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.5.
October 1996: Send Video Signals Over Twisted Pair Cable; 600W
DC-DC Converter For Car Hifi Systems, Pt.1; IR Stereo Headphone
Link, Pt.2; Multi-Channel Radio Control Transmitter, Pt.8.
July 1994: Build A 4-Bay Bow-Tie UHF TV Antenna; PreChamp 2-Transistor Preamplifier; Steam Train Whistle & Diesel Horn Simulator; 6V
SLA Battery Charger; Electronic Engine Management, Pt.10.
August 1994: High-Power Dimmer For Incandescent Lights; Dual Diversity Tuner For FM Microphones, Pt.1; Nicad Zapper (For Resurrecting
Nicad Batteries); Electronic Engine Management, Pt.11.
September 1994: Automatic Discharger For Nicad Batteries; MiniVox
Voice Operated Relay; AM Radio For Weather Beacons; Dual Diversity
Tuner For FM Mics, Pt.2; Electronic Engine Management, Pt.12.
October 1994: How Dolby Surround Sound Works; Dual Rail Variable
Power Supply; Talking Headlight Reminder; Electronic Ballast For
Fluorescent Lights; Electronic Engine Management, Pt.13.
November 1996: 8-Channel Stereo Mixer, Pt.1; Low-Cost Fluorescent
Light Inverter; Repairing Domestic Light Dimmers; 600W DC-DC
Converter For Car Hifi Systems, Pt.2.
December 1996: Active Filter For CW Reception; Fast Clock
For Railway Modellers; Laser Pistol & Electronic Target; Build
A Sound Level Meter; 8-Channel Stereo Mixer, Pt.2; Index To Vol.9.
January 1997: How To Network Your PC; Control Panel For Multiple
Smoke Alarms, Pt.1; Build A Pink Noise Source; Computer Controlled
Dual Power Supply, Pt.1; Digi-Temp Monitors Eight Temperatures.
February 1997: PC-Controlled Moving Message Display; Computer
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Controlled Dual Power Supply, Pt.2; Alert-A-Phone Loud Sounding
Telephone Alarm; Control Panel For Multiple Smoke Alarms, Pt.2.
March 1997: Driving A Computer By Remote Control; Plastic Power
PA Amplifier (175W); Signalling & Lighting For Model Railways; Build
A Jumbo LED Clock; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.7.
April 1997: Simple Timer With No ICs; Digital Voltmeter For Cars;
Loudspeaker Protector For Stereo Amplifiers; Model Train Controller;
A Look At Signal Tracing; Pt.1; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.8.
May 1997: Neon Tube Modulator For Light Systems; Traffic Lights For
A Model Intersection; The Spacewriter – It Writes Messages In Thin
Air; A Look At Signal Tracing; Pt.2; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.9.
June 1997: PC-Controlled Thermometer/Thermostat; TV Pattern
Generator, Pt.1; Audio/RF Signal Tracer; High-Current Speed Controller For 12V/24V Motors; Manual Control Circuit For Stepper Motors.
July 1997: Infrared Remote Volume Control; A Flexible Interface Card
For PCs; Points Controller For Model Railways; Colour TV Pattern
Generator, Pt.2; An In-Line Mixer For Radio Control Receivers.
August 1997: The Bass Barrel Subwoofer; 500 Watt Audio Power
Amplifier Module; A TENs Unit For Pain Relief; Addressable PC Card
For Stepper Motor Control; Remote Controlled Gates For Your Home.
October 1997: 5-Digit Tachometer; Central Locking For Your Car; PCControlled 6-Channel Voltmeter; 500W Audio Power Amplifier, Pt.3.
November 1997: Heavy Duty 10A 240VAC Motor Speed Controller;
Easy-To-Use Cable & Wiring Tester; Build A Musical Doorbell; Replacing Foam Speaker Surrounds; Understanding Electric Lighting Pt.1.
December 1999: Solar Panel Regulator; PC Powerhouse (gives +12V,
+9V, +6V & +5V rails); Fortune Finder Metal Locator; Speed Alarm For
Cars, Pt.2; Railpower Model Train Controller, Pt.3; Index To Vol.12.
January 2000: Spring Reverberation Module; An Audio-Video Test
Generator; Parallel Port Interface Card; Telephone Off-Hook Indicator.
November 2002: SuperCharger For NiCd/NiMH Batteries, Pt.1;
Windows-Based EPROM Programmer, Pt.1; 4-Digit Crystal-Controlled
Timing Module; Using Linux To Share An Optus Cable Modem, Pt.1.
March 2000: Resurrecting An Old Computer; Low Distortion 100W
Amplifier Module, Pt.1; Electronic Wind Vane With 16-LED Display;
Glowplug Driver For Powered Models; The OzTrip Car Computer, Pt.1.
December 2002: Receiving TV From Satellites; Pt.1; The Micromitter
Stereo FM Transmitter; Windows-Based EPROM Programmer, Pt.2;
SuperCharger For NiCd/NiMH Batteries; Pt.2; Simple VHF FM/AM Radio;
Using Linux To Share An Optus Cable Modem, Pt.2.
May 2000: Ultra-LD Stereo Amplifier, Pt.2; LED Dice (With PIC
Microcontroller); Low-Cost AT Keyboard Translator (Converts IBM
Scan-Codes To ASCII); 50A Motor Speed Controller For Models.
June 2000: Automatic Rain Gauge; Parallel Port VHF FM Receiver;
Switchmode Power Supply (1.23V to 40V) Pt.1; CD Compressor.
July 2000: Moving Message Display; Compact Fluorescent Lamp Driver;
Musicians’ Lead Tester; Switchmode Power Supply, Pt.2.
September 2000: Swimming Pool Alarm; 8-Channel PC Relay Board;
Fuel Mixture Display For Cars, Pt.1; Protoboards – The Easy Way Into
Electronics, Pt.1; Cybug The Solar Fly.
April 2003: Video-Audio Booster For Home Theatre Systems; Telephone
Dialler For Burglar Alarms; Three PIC Programmer Kits; PICAXE, Pt.3
(Heartbeat Simulator); Electric Shutter Release For Cameras.
October 2000: Guitar Jammer; Breath Tester; Wand-Mounted Inspection Camera; Subwoofer For Cars; Fuel Mixture Display, Pt.2.
May 2003: Widgybox Guitar Distortion Effects Unit; 10MHz Direct
Digital Synthesis Generator; Big Blaster Subwoofer; Printer Port
Simulator; PICAXE, Pt.4 (Motor Controller).
December 2000: Home Networking For Shared Internet Access; White
LED Torch; 2-Channel Guitar Preamplifier, Pt.2 (Digital Reverb); Driving
An LCD From The Parallel Port; Index To Vol.13.
June 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.2; Universal High Energy
Ignition System; The Roadies’ Friend Cable Tester; Universal Stepper
Motor Controller; Command Control For Model Railways, Pt.5.
July 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.3; 15W/Ch Class-A Audio
Amplifier, Pt.1; Simple Charger For 6V & 12V SLA Batteries; Auto
matic Semiconductor Analyser; Understanding Electric Lighting, Pt.8.
August 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.4; I/O Card With Data Logging; Beat Triggered Strobe; 15W/Ch Class-A Stereo Amplifier, Pt.2.
September 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.5; A Blocked Air-Filter
Alarm; Waa-Waa Pedal For Guitars; Jacob’s Ladder; Gear Change
Indicator For Cars; Capacity Indicator For Rechargeable Batteries.
October 1998: AC Millivoltmeter, Pt.1; PC-Controlled Stress-O-Meter;
Versatile Electronic Guitar Limiter; 12V Trickle Charger For Float Conditions; Adding An External Battery Pack To Your Flashgun.
November 1998: The Christmas Star; A Turbo Timer For Cars; Build
A Poker Machine, Pt.1; FM Transmitter For Musicians; Lab Quality AC
Millivoltmeter, Pt.2; Improving AM Radio Reception, Pt.1.
December 1998: Engine Immobiliser Mk.2; Thermocouple Adaptor
For DMMs; Regulated 12V DC Plugpack; Build A Poker Machine, Pt.2;
Improving AM Radio Reception, Pt.2; Mixer Module For F3B Gliders.
February 2003: PortaPal PA System, Pt.1; SC480 50W RMS Amplifier
Module, Pt.2; Windows-Based EPROM Programmer, Pt.3; Using Linux
To Share An Optus Cable Modem, Pt.4; Fun With The PICAXE, Pt.1.
March 2003: LED Lighting For Your Car; Peltier-Effect Tinnie Cooler;
PortaPal PA System, Pt.2; 12V SLA Battery Float Charger; Little Dynamite Subwoofer; Fun With The PICAXE, Pt.2 (Shop Door Minder).
January 1998: 4-Channel 12VDC or 12VAC Lightshow, Pt.1; Command
Control For Model Railways, Pt.1; Pan Controller For CCD Cameras.
May 1998: 3-LED Logic Probe; Garage Door Opener, Pt.2; Command
Control System, Pt.4; 40V 8A Adjustable Power Supply, Pt.2.
January 2003: Receiving TV From Satellites, Pt 2; SC480 50W RMS
Amplifier Module, Pt.1; Gear Indicator For Cars; Active 3-Way Crossover
For Speakers; Using Linux To Share An Optus Cable Modem, Pt.3.
August 2000: Theremin; Spinner (writes messages in “thin-air”);
Proximity Switch; Structured Cabling For Computer Networks.
November 2000: Santa & Rudolf Chrissie Display; 2-Channel Guitar
Preamplifier, Pt.1; Message Bank & Missed Call Alert; Protoboards –
The Easy Way Into Electronics, Pt.3.
April 1998: Automatic Garage Door Opener, Pt.1; 40V 8A Adjustable
Power Supply, Pt.1; PC-Controlled 0-30kHz Sinewave Generator;
Understanding Electric Lighting; Pt.6.
October 2002: Speed Controller For Universal Motors; PC Parallel Port
Wizard; Cable Tracer; AVR ISP Serial Programmer; 3D TV.
February 2000: Multi-Sector Sprinkler Controller; A Digital Voltmeter
For Your Car; Safety Switch Checker; Sine/Square Wave Oscillator.
December 1997: Speed Alarm For Cars; 2-Axis Robot With Gripper;
Stepper Motor Driver With Onboard Buffer; Power Supply For Stepper
Motor Cards; Understanding Electric Lighting Pt.2; Index To Vol.10.
February 1998: Multi-Purpose Fast Battery Charger, Pt.1; Telephone
Exchange Simulator For Testing; Command Control System For Model
Railways, Pt.2; Build Your Own 4-Channel Lightshow, Pt.2.
September 2002: 12V Fluorescent Lamp Inverter; 8-Channel Infrared
Remote Control; 50-Watt DC Electronic Load; Spyware – An Update.
January 2001: How To Transfer LPs & Tapes To CD; The LP Doctor –
Clean Up Clicks & Pops, Pt.1; Arbitrary Waveform Generator; 2-Channel
Guitar Preamplifier, Pt.3; PIC Programmer & TestBed.
February 2001: An Easy Way To Make PC Boards; L’il Pulser Train
Controller; A MIDI Interface For PCs; Build The Bass Blazer; 2-Metre
Groundplane Antenna; The LP Doctor – Clean Up Clicks & Pops, Pt.2.
March 2001: Making Photo Resist PC Boards; Big-Digit 12/24 Hour
Clock; Parallel Port PIC Programmer & Checkerboard; Protoboards –
The Easy Way Into Electronics, Pt.5; A Simple MIDI Expansion Box.
April 2001: A GPS Module For Your PC; Dr Video – An Easy-To-Build
Video Stabiliser; Tremolo Unit For Musicians; Minimitter FM Stereo
Transmitter; Intelligent Nicad Battery Charger.
May 2001: 12V Mini Stereo Amplifier; Two White-LED Torches To
Build; PowerPak – A Multi-Voltage Power Supply; Using Linux To
Share An Internet Connection, Pt.1; Tweaking Windows With TweakUI.
June 2003: PICAXE, Pt.5; PICAXE-Controlled Telephone Intercom;
PICAXE-08 Port Expansion; Sunset Switch For Security & Garden
Lighting; Digital Reaction Timer; Adjustable DC-DC Converter For Cars;
Long-Range 4-Channel UHF Remote Control.
July 2003: Smart Card Reader & Programmer; Power-Up Auto Mains
Switch; A “Smart” Slave Flash Trigger; Programmable Continuity Tester;
PICAXE Pt.6 – Data Communications; Updating The PIC Programmer
& Checkerboard; RFID Tags – How They Work.
August 2003: PC Infrared Remote Receiver (Play DVDs & MP3s On
Your PC Via Remote Control); Digital Instrument Display For Cars,
Pt.1; Home-Brew Weatherproof 2.4GHz WiFi Antennas; PICAXE Pt.7.
September 2003: Robot Wars; Krypton Bike Light; PIC Programmer;
Current Clamp Meter Adapter For DMMs; PICAXE Pt.8 – A Data Logger;
Digital Instrument Display For Cars, Pt.2.
October 2003: PC Board Design, Pt.1; JV80 Loudspeaker System; A
Dirt Cheap, High-Current Power Supply; Low-Cost 50MHz Frequency
Meter; Long-Range 16-Channel Remote Control System.
November 2003: PC Board Design, Pt.2; 12AX7 Valve Audio Preamplifier; Our Best Ever LED Torch; Smart Radio Modem For Microcontrollers; PICAXE Pt.9; Programmable PIC-Powered Timer.
June 2001: Universal Battery Charger, Pt.1; Phonome – Call, Listen In &
Switch Devices On & Off; Low-Cost Automatic Camera Switcher; Using
Linux To Share An Internet Connection, Pt.2; A PC To Die For, Pt.1.
December 2003: How To Receive Weather Satellite Images; Self-Diagnostics Plug For Cars; PC Board Design, Pt.3; VHF Receiver For Weather
Satellites; Linear Supply For Luxeon 1W Star LEDs; MiniCal 5V Meter
Calibration Standard; PIC-Based Car Battery Monitor; PICAXE Pt.10.
July 2001: The HeartMate Heart Rate Monitor; Do Not Disturb Telephone
Timer; Pic-Toc – A Simple Alarm Clock; Fast Universal Battery Charger,
Pt.2; A PC To Die For, Pt.2; Backing Up Your Email.
January 2004: Studio 350W Power Amplifier Module, Pt.1; HighEfficiency Power Supply For 1W Star LEDs; Antenna & RF Preamp
For Weather Satellites; Lapel Microphone Adaptor For PA Systems;
PICAXE-18X 4-Channel Datalogger, Pt.1; 2.4GHZ Audio/Video Link.
August 2001: DI Box For Musicians; 200W Mosfet Amplifier Module;
Headlight Reminder; 40MHz 6-Digit Frequency Counter Module; A PC
To Die For, Pt.3; Using Linux To Share An Internet Connection, Pt.3.
September 2001: Making MP3s; Build An MP3 Jukebox, Pt.1; PCControlled Mains Switch; Personal Noise Source For Tinnitus; Directional Microphone; Using Linux To Share An Internet Connection, Pt.4.
February 2004: PC Board Design For Beginners, Pt.1; Simple Supply
Rail Monitor For PCs; Studio 350W Power Amplifier Module, Pt.2;
Fantastic Human-Powered LED Torches; Shorted Turns Tester For
Line Output Transformers; PICAXE-18X 4-Channel Datalogger, Pt.2.
March 2004: PC Board Design For Beginners, Pt.2; Build The QuickBrake For Increased Driving Safety; 3V-9V (or more) DC-DC Converter;
ESR Meter Mk.2, Pt.1; PICAXE-18X 4-Channel Datalogger, Pt.3.
January 1999: High-Voltage Megohm Tester; A Look At The BASIC
Stamp; Bargraph Ammeter For Cars; Keypad Engine Immobiliser.
November 2001: Ultra-LD 100W/Channel Stereo Amplifier, Pt.1; Neon
Tube Modulator For Cars; Audio/Video Distribution Amplifier; Build A
Short Message Recorder Player; Useful Tips For Your PC.
March 1999: Build A Digital Anemometer; DIY PIC Programmer;
Easy-To-Build Audio Compressor; Low-Distortion Audio Signal
Generator, Pt.2.
December 2001: IR Transceiver For PCs; 100W/Ch Stereo Amplifier,
Pt.2; Pardy Lights Colour Display; PIC Fun – Learning About Micros.
April 2004: PC Board Design For Beginners, Pt.3; Loudspeaker Level
Meter For Home Theatre Systems; Shut That Mutt (Electronic Dog
Silencer); Smart Mixture Display For Cars; ESR Meter Mk.2, Pt.2; PC/
PICAXE Interface For UHF Remote Control.
January 2002: Touch And/Or Remote-Controlled Light Dimmer, Pt.1;
A Cheap ’n’Easy Motorbike Alarm; 100W /Channel Stereo Amplifier,
Pt.3; Build A Raucous Alarm; FAQs On The MP3 Jukebox.
May 2004: Amplifier Testing Without High-Tech Gear; Component Video
To RGB Converter; Starpower Switching Supply For Luxeon Star LEDs;
Wireless Parallel Port; Poor Man’s Metal Locator.
February 2002: 10-Channel IR Remote Control Receiver; 2.4GHz
High-Power Audio-Video Link; Touch And/Or Remote-Controlled Light
Dimmer, Pt.2; Booting A PC Without A Keyboard; 4-Way Event Timer.
June 2004: Dr Video Mk.2 Video Stabiliser; Build An RFID Security
Module; Fridge-Door Alarm; Courtesy Light Delay For Cars; Automating PC Power-Up; Upgraded Software For The EPROM Programmer.
June 1999: FM Radio Tuner Card For PCs; X-Y Table With Stepper Motor
Control, Pt.2; Programmable Ignition Timing Module For Cars, Pt.1.
March 2002: Mighty Midget Audio Amplifier Module; 6-Channel
IR Remote Volume Control, Pt.1; RIAA Pre-Amplifier For Magnetic
Cartridges; 12/24V Intelligent Solar Power Battery Charger.
July 2004: Silencing A Noisy PC; Versatile Battery Protector; Appliance
Energy Meter, Pt.1; A Poor Man’s Q Meter; Regulated High-Voltage
Supply For Valve Amplifiers; Remote Control For A Model Train Layout.
July 1999: Build A Dog Silencer; 10µH to 19.99mH Inductance Meter;
Audio-Video Transmitter; Programmable Ignition Timing Module For
Cars, Pt.2; XYZ Table With Stepper Motor Control, Pt.3.
April 2002:Automatic Single-Channel Light Dimmer; Pt.1; Water Level
Indicator; Multiple-Output Bench Power Supply; Versatile Multi-Mode
Timer; 6-Channel IR Remote Volume Control, Pt.2.
August 2004: Video Formats: Why Bother?; VAF’s New DC-X Generation
IV Loudspeakers; Video Enhancer & Y/C Separator; Balanced Microphone Preamp; Appliance Energy Meter, Pt.2; 3-State Logic Probe.
August 1999: Remote Modem Controller; Daytime Running Lights For
Cars; Build A PC Monitor Checker; Switching Temperature Controller;
XYZ Table With Stepper Motor Control, Pt.4; Electric Lighting, Pt.14.
May 2002: 32-LED Knightrider; The Battery Guardian (Cuts Power When
the Battery Voltage Drops); Stereo Headphone Amplifier; Automatic
Single-Channel Light Dimmer; Pt.2; Stepper Motor Controller.
September 2004: Voice Over IP (VoIP) For Beginners; WiFry – Cooking
Up 2.4GHz Antennas; Bed Wetting Alert; Build a Programmable Robot;
Another CFL Inverter.
September 1999: Autonomouse The Robot, Pt.1; Voice Direct Speech
Recognition Module; Digital Electrolytic Capacitance Meter; XYZ Table
With Stepper Motor Control, Pt.5; Peltier-Powered Can Cooler.
June 2002: Lock Out The Bad Guys with A Firewall; Remote Volume
Control For Stereo Amplifiers; The “Matchless” Metal Locator; Compact
0-80A Automotive Ammeter; Constant High-Current Source.
October 2004: The Humble “Trannie” Turns 50; SMS Controller, Pt.1;
RGB To Component Video Converter; USB Power Injector; Remote
Controller For Garage Doors & Gates.
October 1999: Build The Railpower Model Train Controller, Pt.1;
Semiconductor Curve Tracer; Autonomouse The Robot, Pt.2; XYZ
Table With Stepper Motor Control, Pt.6; Introducing Home Theatre.
July 2002: Telephone Headset Adaptor; Rolling Code 4-Channel UHF
Remote Control; Remote Volume Control For The Ultra-LD Stereo
Amplifier; Direct Conversion Receiver For Radio Amateurs, Pt.1.
November 1999: Setting Up An Email Server; Speed Alarm For Cars,
Pt.1; LED Christmas Tree; Intercom Station Expander; Foldback Loudspeaker System; Railpower Model Train Controller, Pt.2.
August 2002: Digital Instrumentation Software For PCs; Digital Storage
Logic Probe; Digital Therm./Thermostat; Sound Card Interface For PC
Test Instruments; Direct Conversion Receiver For Radio Amateurs.
April 1999: Getting Started With Linux; Pt.2; High-Power Electric
Fence Controller; Bass Cube Subwoofer; Programmable Thermostat/
Thermometer; Build An Infrared Sentry; Rev Limiter For Cars.
May 1999: The Line Dancer Robot; An X-Y Table With Stepper Motor
Control, Pt.1; Three Electric Fence Testers; Heart Of LEDs; Build A
Carbon Monoxide Alarm.
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PIC MICROCONTROLLERS: know it all
SELF ON AUDIO
Multiple authors $85.00
The best of subjects Newnes authors have written over the past few years,
combined in a one-stop maxi reference. Covers introduction to PICs and their
programming in Assembly, PICBASIC, MBASIC & C. 900+ pages.
PROGRAMMING and CUSTOMIZING THE
PICAXE By David Lincoln (2nd Ed, 2011) $65.00*
A great aid when wrestling with applications for the PICAXE
See
series of microcontrollers, at beginner, intermediate and
Review
April
advanced levels. Every electronics class, school and library should have a
copy, along with anyone who works with PICAXEs. 300 pages in paperback. 2011
PIC IN PRACTICE
by D W Smith. 2nd Edition - published 2006 $60.00*
by Douglas Self 2nd Edition 2006 $69.00*
A collection of 35 classic magazine articles offering a dependable methodology for designing audio power amplifiers to improve performance at every
point without significantly increasing cost. Includes compressors/limiters,
hybrid bipolar/FET amps, electronic switching and more. 467 pages in paperback.
SMALL SIGNAL AUDIO DESIGN
By Douglas Self – First Edition 2010 $95.00*
The latest from the Guru of audio. Explains audio concepts in easy-to-understand language with plenty of examples and reasoning. Inspiration for audio
designers, superb background for audio enthusiasts and especially where it comes to
component peculiarities and limitations. Expensive? Yes. Value for money? YES! Highly
recommended. 558 pages in paperback.
Based on popular short courses on the PIC, for professionals, students
and teachers. Can be used at a variety of levels. An ideal introduction to the
world of microcontrollers. 255 pages in paperback.
PIC MICROCONTROLLER – your personal introductory course By John Morton 3rd edition 2005. $60.00*
A unique and practical guide to getting up and running with the PIC. It assumes no knowledge of microcontrollers – ideal introduction for students,
teachers, technicians and electronics enthusiasts. Revised 3rd edition focuses entirely
on re-programmable flash PICs such as 16F54, 16F84 12F508 and 12F675. 226 pages
in paperback.
AUDIO POWER AMPLIFIER DESIGN HANDBOOK
by Douglas Self – 5th Edition 2009 $85.00*
"The Bible" on audio power amplifiers. Many revisions and
updates to the previous edition and now has an extra three
chapters covering Class XD, Power Amp Input Systems and
Input Processing and Auxiliarly Subsystems. Not cheap and not a book
for the beginner but if you want the best reference on Audio Power Amps,
you want this one! 463 pages in paperback.
DVD PLAYERS AND DRIVES
by K.F. Ibrahim. Published 2003. $71.00*
OP AMPS FOR EVERYONE
By Bruce Carter – 4th Edition 2013 $83.00*
This is the bible for anyone designing op amp circuits and you don't
have to be an engineer to get the most out of it. It is written in simple language
but gives lots of in-depth info, bridging the gap between the theoretical and the
practical. 281 pages,
A guide to DVD technology and applications, with particular focus
on design issues and pitfalls, maintenance and repair. Ideal for
engineers, technicians, students of consumer electronics and
sales and installation staff. 319 pages in paperback.
by Sanjaya Maniktala, Published April 2012. $83.00
Thoroughly revised! The most comprehensive study available of theoretical and practical aspects of controlling and measuring
EMI in switching power supplies.
Subtitled Exploring the PIC32, a Microchip insider tells all on this powerful
PIC! Focuses on examples and exercises that show how to solve common,
real-world design problems quickly. Includes handy checklists. FREE CD-ROM includes
source code in C, the Microchip C30 compiler, and MPLAB SIM. 400 pages paperback.
By Garry Cratt – Latest (7th) Edition 2008 $49.00
Written in Australia, for Australian conditions by one of Australia's foremost
satellite TV experts. If there is anything you wanted to know about setting up
a satellite TV system, (including what you can't do!) it's sure to be covered
in this 176-page paperback book.
See
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Feb
2004
SWITCHING POWER SUPPLIES A-Z
PROGRAMMING 32-bit MICROCONTROLLERS
IN C By Luci di Jasio (2008) $79.00*
PRACTICAL GUIDE TO SATELLITE TV
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March
2010
ELECTRIC MOTORS AND DRIVES
By Austin Hughes & Bill Drury - 4th edition 2013 $59.00*
This is a very easy to read book with very little mathematics or
formulas. It covers the basics of all the main motor types, DC
permanent magnet and wound field, AC induction and steppers and
gives a very good description of how speed control circuits work with these
motors. Soft covers, 444 pages.
NEWNES GUIDE TO TV & VIDEO TECHNOLOGY
By KF Ibrahim 4th Edition (Published 2007) $49.00
It's back! Provides a full and comprehensive coverage of video and television technology including HDTV and DVD. Starts with fundamentals so is
ideal for students but covers in-depth technologies such as Blu-ray, DLP,
Digital TV, etc so is also perfect for engineers. 600+ pages in paperback.
RF CIRCUIT DESIGN
by Chris Bowick, Second Edition, 2008. $63.00*
The classic RF circuit design book. RF circuit design is now more important
that ever in the wireless world. In most of the wireless devices that we use
there is an RF component – this book tells how to design and integrate in a
very practical fashion. 244 pages in paperback.
AC MACHINES
By Jim Lowe Published 2006 $66.00*
Applicable to Australian trades-level courses including NE10 AC Machines,
NE12 Synchronous Machines and the AC part of NE30 Electric Motor
Control and Protection. Covering polyphase induction motors, singlephase motors, synchronous machines and polyphase motor starting. 160
pages in paperback.
PRACTICAL VARIABLE SPEED DRIVES &
POWER ELECTRONICS
Se
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by Malcolm Barnes. 1st Ed, Feb 2003. $73.00* Review
An essential reference for engineers and anyone who wishes
to design or use variable speed drives for induction motors.
286 pages in soft cover.
Feb
2003
BUILD YOUR OWN ELECTRIC MOTORCYCLE
PRACTICAL RF HANDBOOK
by Carl Vogel. Published 2009. $40.00*
by Ian Hickman. 4th edition 2007 $61.00*
A guide to RF design for engineers, technicians, students and enthusiasts.
Covers key topics in RF: analog design principles, transmission lines,
couplers, transformers, amplifiers, oscillators, modulation, transmitters and
receivers, propagation and antennas. 279 pages in paperback.
Alternative fuel expert Carl Vogel gives you a hands-on guide with
the latest technical information and easy-to-follow instructions
for building a two-wheeled electric vehicle – from a streamlined
scooter to a full-sized motorcycle. 384 pages in soft cover.
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PIC MICROCONTROLLERS: know it all
SELF ON AUDIO
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The best of subjects Newnes authors have written over the past few years,
combined in a one-stop maxi reference. Covers introduction to PICs and their
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PROGRAMMING and CUSTOMIZING THE
PICAXE By David Lincoln (2nd Ed, 2011) $65.00*
A great aid when wrestling with applications for the PICAXE
See
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Review
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PIC IN PRACTICE
by D W Smith. 2nd Edition - published 2006 $60.00*
by Douglas Self 2nd Edition 2006 $69.00*
A collection of 35 classic magazine articles offering a dependable methodology for designing audio power amplifiers to improve performance at every
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SMALL SIGNAL AUDIO DESIGN
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AUDIO POWER AMPLIFIER DESIGN HANDBOOK
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DVD PLAYERS AND DRIVES
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OP AMPS FOR EVERYONE
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SWITCHING POWER SUPPLIES A-Z
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PRACTICAL GUIDE TO SATELLITE TV
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AC MACHINES
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PRACTICAL VARIABLE SPEED DRIVES &
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send an email to silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au
USB interface
for PICs
I would like to know a good starting point for interfacing a PIC-based
project to a USB port? I understand
how to do the serial port with a PIC
as there are only a few lines and the
protocol isn’t too tricky. Is there some
snazzy chip that will do most of the
protocol with a little bit of set-up from
the PIC? (M. S., via email).
• If all you need is a high-speed USB
serial connection, the FT245BM and
FT232BM devices from FTDI are the
way to go. Check out their web site at
www.ftdichip.com for more information.
To make life even easier, these
chips are available mounted on small
plug-in modules that include all the
necessary support logic, including
the USB socket. You’ll find examples
at www.elexol.com.au/USB_Modules
and www.dontronics.com, who also
stock the FDTI chips.
If your needs are more specific,
then Microchip offer the PIC16C745
& PIC16C765 with in-built USB ports.
Alternatively, you could opt to interface your micro to one of many singlechip USB peripherals. A good place to
start looking is www.beyondlogic.org
Headlight as
WiFi reflector
I have a question regarding the article about “WiFry: Cooking Up 2.4 GHz
Antennas” in the September 2004 issue. You say to use a parabolic shaped
cooking scoop. Could a car headlight,
with the glass removed do the same
job? I’m pretty sure they are the correct shape and you could just replace
the globe with the USB “dongle” and
that would be it.
I’m not sure if the reflective material in the headlight is enough but I
guess it could be lined with foil? (D.
L., Rye, Vic).
• Provided the headlamp reflector is
circular, it is a fair bet that it will be a
paraboloid and therefore suitable for a
WiFi antenna. The headlight metallisation should also work as a satisfactory
reflector at 2.4GHz. On the other hand,
most irregularly shaped headlight
reflectors result in asymmetric light
beams so they might not work as well
with WiFi.
Transformer for
6-channel amplifier
I wish to build six 50W amplifier
modules (SILICON CHIP, January & February 2003) for use in a home theatre
system. These would be coupled
with the 6-channel volume controller
from the March & April 2002 issues.
I am looking to build only one power
supply for the six modules but the
question arises, what capacity should
my power transformer be? (W. N., Kurrajong, NSW).
• You need a single transformer with
a rating of at least 300VA. Unfortunately, the closest readily available transformer is the Altronics M-5530 300V
30V-0-30V. This could be reduced by
RFID module: installation security concerns
I have recently purchased the
RFID module (SILICON CHIP, June
2003) and have successfully assembled and tested it. This is an
excellent device, with many possible uses and was easy to construct
and use.
However, there are areas where
it may be improved. First, the
Reader Module could be closer
to the outer panel (of whatever
container is used) to maximise
the operational range. At present,
this is limited by the height of the
output connectors.
Second, in the case of an external installation, the security of the
door strike function is considerably
reduced by the exposure of the
connector terminals. It would be
a simple matter for anyone who is
“tech savvy” and attempting entry
106 Silicon Chip
to jumper terminals until the strike
was activated. The fact that an
alarm is triggered (if present) may
not deter a serious attempt.
The time allocated for door opening is about five seconds, which
seems too short. It could be doubled to about 10 seconds without
decreasing security very much.
In my situation I only need the
door strike function, but the unit
needs to be installed externally. I
intend removing the connectors
and hard-wiring the outputs to inline insulated bullet connectors,
which will connect to the external
cabling behind the PC board.
The Reader Module will be
placed as close as possible to the
outer panel by lowering the higher
components. The initialising can
be done pre-installation (on the
bench). (K. M., via email).
• We can’t see how security of the
door strike is reduced by the exposure of the connector terminals.
Even if the module was completely
encapsulated, the wiring would still
be open to tampering.
The door strike “on” time is
indeed set to five seconds. If you
are knowledgeable about AVR microcontrollers and have access to a
programmer, you can increase this
time by altering the relevant parameter in the source code (RFID.ASM)
and reassembling it.
Look under the heading “CONSTANTS”. There you’ll find a line
that reads:
.equ LOCK_ON_TIME =10
The maximum possible “on”
time is 16 seconds – ie, change 10
to 32.
siliconchip.com.au
using a 12V 2A transformer (Altronics
M-256L) in auto-transformer reduce
mode, to reduce the input voltage to
the 300VA transformer. The method is
explained in this month’s Circuit Notebook item on page 86. Alternatively,
you could get one custom wound to
28V-0-28V from Harbuch Electronics,
Phone (02) 9476 5854.
Reconnecting an LCD
to a PC board
I have a talking clock radio that
I rather like. Unfortunately, when I
recently dismantled it to clean the
switch contacts, the LCD detached
itself from the circuit board and
the attaching rubber strip of microconductors. This has caused me great
distress considering how I will repair
the connection.
Is my only solution to get out the
microscope and some conductive
epoxy glue and try to repair it? Or am
I able to purchase a replacement LCD
mounted on a board that I can solder?
(D. V., Newcastle, NSW).
• You should be able to sandwich the
elastomeric strip back between the PC
board and the LCD and it should all
go again.
Controller for
10-channel remote
I have brought and made up a
10-channel IR remote receiver kit from
the February 2002 issue. I called Jaycar
to get a kit to build a controller for it
but they said they don’t have one. I
would like to know if there is such a
kit or the wiring diagram, etc. (G. M.,
Moura, Qld).
• There is no kit for the controller. As
outlined in the article, the circuit is
designed to work with just about any
pre-programmed remote that can control a satellite receiver. Have another
look at the article.
Class-H amplifiers
switch supply rails
It has come to my attention that
some audio push/pull amplifiers have
an extra switching transistor next to
the main output transistors. Now having built a few amplifiers and studied
electronics, I simply do not know what
this extra transistor does. After looking
at the old ETI-480 100W amplifier and
a couple of other different amplifier
siliconchip.com.au
Extending a video monitor connection
I wish to locate my computer
screen an increased distance from
the computer chassis. The required
cable length is of the order of seven
to eight metres.
Can the average video card drive
the signals this far? If not, can
multiplexers/repeaters be used for
the faster signals; ie, the R, G and
B lines. Also, what type of cable
would be required and are there
any other issues involved with the
increased distance?
Alternatively, can the keyboard
and mouse be extended by same
distance? (E. R., Rye, Vic).
• We’re not aware of the maximum
cable length for such a connection
but believe that it would vary con-
modules, I cannot see how a switching
transistor could possibly be used. Is it
a different way of biasing the output
transistors?
• You are probably referring to ClassH amplifiers (originally developed
by Hitachi) which switch the output
stages to higher supply rails to enable
much higher short-term power.
Have a look at the Mighty Midget
power amplifier in the March 2002
issue. This used class-H.
Courtesy light
delay for cars
I have built and tested the Courtesy
Light Delay kit as described in the June
2004 edition of SILICON CHIP. I have
installed it into my 1989 Mitsubishi
Magna Station Sedan (12V, negative
earth). This model is fitted with a
small light on the dashboard to show
when the doors have not been properly closed.
The kit passes all tests when the motor is off; ie, the interior lights switch
off after a delay of about 35 seconds or
when the car lights are activated. My
problem is that after the delay period
upon entering the car, the interior
lights then come on and dim to a lesser
degree continuously while the motor
is running and I am driving. Switching
on the parking lights of course solves
the problem. When the car is parked
and the motor is off, all is OK.
I have disconnected the tail-light
siderably from manufacturer to
manufacturer.
We’d suggest initially trying the
hookup using one or two good
quality monitor extension cables
(available from most computer
resellers). If the results are unsatisfactory, then you have a couple
of options.
You could purchase a purposebuilt SVGA video extender, such
as the “Belkin OmniView”. These
are available from various computer resellers in Australia.
For a do-it-yourself solution,
check out the “Video & Pulse
Distribution Amplifier” described
in the December 1997 edition of
“Electronics Australia”.
connections to the kit but the problem
is still there. By disconnecting all four
wires to the kit the interior lights work
perfectly, as was always the case.
This has me confused and I would
greatly appreciate any help you can
offer. (R. C., via email).
• The circuit should not be triggered
while the door switches are open.
Capacitor C1 needs to be discharged
fully via a closed door switch before
the circuit can be triggered when the
switch opens.
To solve your problem, you could
connect the “to tail lights” terminals
to the ignition supply. In this way, the
courtesy lights would be held off via
the optocoupler pulling the gate of Q1
to the source terminal.
Switching whine
from speed controller
I am using a 12V Motor Speed
Control, as described in the June 1997
issue of SILICON CHIP, on a vehicle
windscreen wiper motor. I get a high
pitched noise from the motor (and others) when power is supplied through
the control unit. This does not occur
if 12V power is supplied direct to the
motor. Any ideas on what is causing
the noise and how to get rid of it? (G.
O., via email).
• All switch-mode speed controls
cause motor whine. If your car has
electric windows, you will probably
hear some whine just as the motors
November 2004 107
Playmaster 300W amplifier hums & thumps
I’m hoping someone can shed
some light on a couple of problems
I have with a power amplifier for
a 500W subwoofer. It’s from the
April 1995 issue of “Electronics
Australia”.
Ever since I built it six years ago,
it has had a weird quirk: about one
minute after switching power off,
the attached speaker starts thumping. It starts off slowly (around two
thumps per second) and loudly
(about 10mm speaker excursion)
and over the course of five minutes
the thumping speeds up (maybe
six thumps per second) and dies
off. Somewhere in the middle,
the thumping seems to switch to
double-time.
The amplifier also has a “clipping” LED on the front panel, which
is meant to show if you’re driving
the amplifier too hard. During its
thumping routine, the LED flashes
in time with the thumping.
Yes, I have checked for animals
and small people trapped in the
box!
The other quirk may be related –
loud humming. Not when a source
come to a stop. The noise is caused by
the high-frequency switching signal
which applies DC to the motor. You
may be able to reduce the noise by
altering the frequency a little. Try
replacing the 10kΩ resistor at pin 6
of IC1 with a 20kΩ trimpot in series
with a 4.7kΩ resistor. Then adjust
the trimpot for the least noise from
the motor.
Studio 350
fried resistors
I have built a Studio 350 amplifier module (SILICON CHIP, January &
February 2004) and upon powering it
up, I found that the voltage readings
across the speaker terminals were
nearly equal to the output voltage of
the power supply. I have checked all
the board parts and connections three
times and can find no faults with the
construction.
Later, as I was trying to adjust the
voltages to zero as described, the resistors in the area of the audio input (Q2,
108 Silicon Chip
is plugged in but only when you
touch the signal terminal of the input RCA lead with a finger. I don’t
know what frequency the hum is
(no oscilloscope) but it sounds low,
like a truck horn. It might be 50Hz
but I don’t really know what 50Hz
sounds like.
The humming is quieter if you
touch the shielding of the RCA lead
with the same finger or if you touch
the amplifier case with your other
hand. Is this expected/normal? As
I said, it only happens under these
conditions. The amplifier operates
noiselessly and as expected when
plugged into my preamp and playing music. Thanks very much for
any insight! (C. C., via email).
• The hum is probably due to
instability in the Mosfet output
stages; they’re probably oscillating
at 100MHz or more (you can check
that with an FM radio). Check all
the Mosfet gate capacitors.
The slow oscillation could be
related to the above; ie, motorboating. Perhaps some of the bypass
capacitors on the supply rails are
open-circuit.
Q3) fried, damaging the board surface
somewhat. Can you suggest what to do
next? (P. C., via email).
• Our guess is that you have swapped
a pair of transistors or you have an
open-circuit solder connection somewhere. Replace the fried resistors and
power up the board again, with the
resistors across the fuseholders, and
check each transistor for a base-emitter
voltage of about 0.7V. An incorrect
reading indicates a fault in the transistor or its associated components.
Dr Video has
dark rectangle
I have just finished building the Dr
Video kit (SILICON CHIP, June 2004)
and I have a dark rectangle block in
the top lefthand corner of the screen.
Any ideas? (S. J., via email).
• It sounds as if your vertical blanking pulse circuit (around IC6b, IC6c
and IC5b) is generating a pulse longer
than the correct 1.1ms. This is probably due to within-tolerance compo-
nent variations, so we suggest you try
replacing the 8.2nF capacitor with one
of 6.8nF or 5.6nF. This should remove
the “dark rectangle”.
Volume control for
valve preamp
I have a question regarding the Valve
Preamp For Hifi (SILICON CHIP, February 2004). In the article you place the
volume pot after the preamp. I was
wondering if it could be placed before
the preamp and would this change
performance in any way? (R. D., Doncaster, Vic).
• There are arguments for and against
putting the volume control in front of a
preamp. Putting it in front means you
reduce the chance of overload but it
also means the signal to noise ratio of
the final signal may not be as good.
Energy Meter can
measure to 15A
Why did you limit your Energy Meter (SILICON CHIP, July & August 2004)
to only 10A? I want to measure my air
conditioner. How could I modify your
design to go to (at least) 15A, please?
(P. B, Turramurra, NSW).
• The Energy Meter was limited to
10A because this is the maximum rating of a general purpose mains outlet
(GPO). You can still use the meter to
measure 15A if your GPO, the fuse and
power cords are rated for this. It would
be wise to bypass the relay for 15A
measurements, to prevent damaging
the relay contacts. Otherwise, the meter can operate at 15A (3600W) without
any software or hardware changes.
Micromitter’s
filter is faulty
The last time I was in Australia,
I purchased an FM Micromitter kit
(SILICON CHIP, December 2002) in
Brisbane. I have now built the kit and
have a problem – there is very little
RF output.
I looked at the Rohm website and
found an Application Circuit for the
BH1417F chip employed in the kit.
It shows a 1nF DC blocking capacitor between the chip output and the
GFWB3 filter. The data indicates that
there should be typically (Vcc - 1.9)
volts on pin 11.
In my version there was no voltage
on pin 11 because pin 1 of the filter has
siliconchip.com.au
DC continuity to ground. I have fitted a
1nF capacitor and the unit now works
correctly, with about 3.1V on pin 11.
However, I wondered afterwards if the
filter input is actually pin 3, which
does not have DC continuity to ground
and perhaps I could have just reversed
the filter on the board.
Have you encountered this problem
before. (D. D., Cheltenham Spa, UK).
• There should be no need to have a
DC blocking capacitor before the filter
as the filter is capacitive. Perhaps your
filter has a fault, causing DC to flow
to ground.
No secret code for
LED marking
Like many readers I have been experimenting with a variety of LEDs.
Given the state of my workbench, I
now have quite a random collection
– all unmarked!
Is there any way of finding out LED
characteristics from scratch? And is
there any logical reason why manufacturers refuse to mark LEDs with type
numbers (or have I missed some secret
inscription)? After all, if transistors
were unmarked where would we be?
(J. B., Dalton, NSW
• Short of testing all your LEDs with
a low-voltage DC source, there is no
way of knowing their characteristics.
And if you can find the “secret way”
of LED marking, please let us know
and we will pass it on to the world
at large!
240V halogens still
have UV output
I know you never were too keen on
12V down-lighting with inefficient hot
transformers but have you seen the
new 240V halogens that K-mart and
other chains now sell? They are glass
encased, so no UV radiation and are
rated at 50W.
I am wondering if these kinds of
halogens are OK to use with normal
light dimmers. Mine dim OK but I am
worried if I am reducing the life of the
halogens that may need to run hot like
other halogens.
• 240V halogens have been available
for some time but we are not aware
that the types you refer to have zero
ultra-violet output. Given the very
high filament temperatures, that seems
highly unlikely. In any case, using a
dimmer with any halogen has the effect of reducing their efficiency as well
as reducing life. Also 240V halogens
tend not to last as long as 12V types
because their much higher resistance
filament is nowhere near as rugged.
Fridge causes TV
interference
I have a new GE fridge which creates TV interference. There are waves
across the screen which vary depending on the fridge motor speed. How can
this be fixed? (B. C., via email).
• First, you must determine the
mechanism of the interference. Is the
interference visible on all channels?
If so, it is possible that the motor’s
magnetic field is directly affecting the
picture tube. Is the fridge close to the
TV? If so, the cure is to move the TV
away from the fridge.
On the other hand, if the interference is present only on one channel
then the source is possibly some electronic circuit within the fridge. If so,
it may well be a fault since consumer
Notes & Errata
Programmable Robot, September 2004: there is an error in the
circuit diagram of Fig.1 on page
65, concerning the programming
cable socket (CON1). Earth should
go to the tip of the 3.5mm socket,
while the junction of the 22kΩ &
10kΩ resistors goes to the ring. The
sleeve connection is correct, as is
the PC board layout on page 66.
Garage Door Controller, October
2004: some readers want to use
smaller motors with this kit and
Oatley Electronics has advised
that if R22 and R17 are changed
to 82kΩ, the current is adjustable
from 0-4A. Initially, set trimpots
VR1 and VR2 to their centre positions, as the circuit may prematurely trip at the most sensitive
settings.
Video Formats: Why Bother?,
August 2004: a number of readers
have asked where the PAL DVD
test disc mentioned in the article
can be obtained. Sanity currently
stock the disc, on the web at www.
sanity.com.au or phone 1300 722
121. Ask for the “Digital Video
Essentials” DVD.
Universal Power Supply Board,
August 1988: the 1000µF capacitor in Fig.8 (parts layout) is shown
with reversed polarity.
equipment is supposed to meet EMC
standards. We would then make a
complaint to the distributor, or in the
SC
first instance, to the retailer.
WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage.
All such projects should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely. Readers are warned that high
voltage wiring should be carried out according to the instructions in the articles. When working on these projects
use extreme care to ensure that you do not accidentally come into contact with mains AC voltages or high voltage
DC. If you are not confident about working with projects employing mains voltages or other high voltages, you are
advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd disclaims any liability for damages should
anyone be killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue of SILICON CHIP magazine.
Devices or circuits described in SILICON CHIP may be covered by patents. SILICON CHIP disclaims any liability
for the infringement of such patents by the manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also
disclaims any liability for projects which are used in such a way as to infringe relevant government regulations
and by-laws.
Advertisers are warned that they are responsible for the content of all advertisements and that they must conform to the Trade Practices Act 1974 or as subsequently amended and to any governmental regulations which are
applicable.
siliconchip.com.au
November 2004 109
MARKET CENTRE
Cash in your surplus gear. Advertise it here in Silicon Chip.
CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING RATES
Advertising rates for this page: Classified ads: $22.00 (incl. GST) for up to 20
words plus 66 cents for each additional word. Display ads: $36.00 (incl. GST) per
column centimetre (max. 10cm). Closing date: five weeks prior to month of sale.
To run your classified ad, print it clearly in the space below or on a separate sheet
of paper, fill out the form & send it with your cheque or credit card details to: Silicon
Chip Classifieds, PO Box 139, Collaroy, NSW 2097. Alternatively, fax the details
to (02) 9979 6503 or send an email to silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au
Taxation Invoice ABN 49 003 205 490
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_____________ _____________ _____________ _____________ _____________
_____________ _____________ _____________ _____________ _____________
_____________ _____________ _____________ _____________ _____________
Enclosed is my cheque/money order for $__________ or please debit my
Bankcard Visa Card Master Card
Card No.
Signature__________________________ Card expiry date______/______
Name _____________________________________________________
Street _____________________________________________________
Suburb/town ___________________________ Postcode______________
Phone:_____________ Fax:_____________ Email:__________________
110 Silicon Chip
FOR SALE
Logbox and FieldLogger universal
input dataloggers
sPlan Windows electronic schematic
software and Sprint Layout Windows
PCB layout software are feature packed
but low in price
Labjack USB Data Acquisition Module features 8 12bit analog inputs, 20
digital I/O, 2 analog outputs and high
speed counter. Free software, Labview
driver and ActiveX component.
DAS005 Parallel Port Data Acquisition Module features 8 12bit Analog
inputs, 4 Digital I/Ps & 4 Digital O/Ps.
Free windows software and source code.
Pixel Programmable Controller with 4
analog inputs, 8 digital inputs and 8 relay
outputs. Can use a 28A or 28X Picaxe.
Programmed in basic or Flow chart.
2, 4 & 8 Relay Modules suitable for TTL
and Open Collector Outputs.
Programmers for Atmel and PIC microcontrollers.
Stepper Motor and Servo Motor controller kits.
Switch Mode and Linear Power Supplies and DC-DC converters.
Full details and credit card ordering available at www.oceancontrols.com.au
RCS RADIO/DESIGN is at 41 Arlewis
St, Chester Hill 2162, NSW Australia
and has all the published PC boards
from SC, EA, ETI, HE, AEM & others.
Ph (02) 9738 0330. sales<at>rcsradio.
com.au, www.rcsradio.com.au
Satellite TV Reception
International satellite
TV reception in your
home is now affordable.
Send for your free info
pack containing equipment catalog, satellite
lists, etc or call for appointment to view.
We can display all satellites from 76.5°
to 180°.
AV-COMM P/L, 24/9 Powells Rd,
Brookvale, NSW 2100.
Tel: 02 9939 4377 or 9939 4378.
Fax: 9939 4376; www.avcomm.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
ELNEC IC PROGRAMMERS
Universal and
specialised models
High quality
Realistic prices
Large range of adaptors
Free regular software updates
Windows 95/98/Me/NT/2k/XP
GRANTRONICS PTY LTD
PO Box 275, Wentworthville. 2145.
Ph: 02 9896 7150
New New New
Foam surrounds,voice coils,cones and more
Original parts for Dynaudio,Tannoy and others
Expert speaker repairs – 20 years experience
Australian agents for
products
Trade welcome – email for your user ID
Phone (03) 9647 7000
Mark22-SM
Slimline Mini FM R/C Receiver
speakerbits.com.au
www.grantronics.com.au
TAIG MACHINERY
Micro Mini Lathes and Mills
From $489.00
•
•
•
•
•
6 Channels
10kHz frequency separation
Size: 55 x 23 x 20mm
Weight: 25gm
Modular Construction
Price: $A129.50 with crystal
Electronics
Stepper motors: 200 oz in $89.00, 330 oz in $110.00
Digital verniers: 150mm $55.00, 200mm $65.00
59 Gilmore Crescent
(02) 6281 5660
Garran ACT 2605
0412269707
NIXIE TUBES, including IN-18 with
40mm digits and IN-17 with 8mm
digits. Also see my nixie clock kit, just
$140 including tubes! 5mm superbright
LEDs from 35 cents each. New 12mm
superbright LEDs! Huge 4-inch, 4 digit
green LED clock displays just $32. Other
great stuff including Russian components. www.ledsales.com.au
DIRECTIONS to find information about
semiconductors, projects, valves and
more, referenced in Silicon Chip 90-04,
EA 86-94, most TE, some ETI. Easyfind
groupings on CD-ROM. Requirements:
PC or MAC capable of opening web
pages from CD. AUD$15.00 includes
postage Australia wide. Ian Mullins, 174
Pinnacle Drive, Condon, 4815.
PIC/AXE PROJECT PCBs for home
automation and robotics, POWERMATE
energy meter. Your home DVD, YH
Technical Manual, Nixie Clock. All OZ
designs. info<at>techbits.com.au, www.
techbits.com.au
PHILIPS N1700 VCR: have several
to dispose of with spares and tapes.
Adelaide, SA. Phone (08) 8255 0025
BUY FROM HONG KONG, PAY IN OZ.
Get many common components direct
from Hong Kong but pay in Oz. www.
kitsrus.com/bits.html
siliconchip.com.au
PATENT LICENCES USA, Aust. for
sale. Electronic machine vibration tester.
Manufacture to untapped market. Phone
AH (03) 5979 8303.
PO Box 580, Riverwood, NSW 2210.
Ph/Fax (02) 9533 3517
email: youngbob<at>silvertone.com.au
Website: www.silvertone.com.au
2.4 GHz WiFi Antennas
PCBs MADE, ONE OR MANY. Any
format, hobbyists welcome. Sesame
Electronics (02) 9593 1025.
sesame777<at>optusnet.com.au
http://sesame_elec.tripod.com
S-Video . . . Video . . . Audio . . . VGA
distribution amps, splitters, standards
converters, tbc’s, switchers, cables, etc,
& price list: www.questronix.com.au
ImageCraft C Compilers: 32-bit
Windows IDE and compiler. For AVR,
68HC08, 68HC11, 68HC12, 68HC16.
from $330.00
Atmel Flash CPU Programmer: Handles the 89Cx051, 89C5x, 89Sxx in
both DIP and PLCC44 and some AVR’s,
most 8-pin EEPROMS. Includes socket
for serial ISP cable. $220, $11 p&p.
SOIC adaptors: 20 pin $132.00, 14 pin
$126.50, 8 pin $121.00.
Full details on web site. Credit cards
accepted.
GRANTRONICS PTY LTD, PO Box 275,
Wentworthville 2145. (02) 9896 7150 or
http://www.grantronics.com.au
KITS KITS AND MORE KITS! Check
’em out at www.ozitronics.com
Web:
Email:
Tel:
Fax:
Also Available
Panel Antennas
Ceiling Antennas
Low Loss 50 ohm cable
Connectors
Pigtails
Access Points
Masts
Amplifiers
Power over Ethernet
External Enclosures
www.freenet-antennas.com
sales<at>freenet-antennas.com
+61 (8) 9319 3275
+61 (8) 9319 1720
STOCK REDUCTION SALE: Every
Friday 12pm to 5pm. Electronic components, switches, LEDs, displays,
enclosures, connectors, crystals, relays,
neons and many more. At Switches
Plus Components, Unit 1 - 2 Sibthorpe
Street, Braeside, Victoria. Phone (03)
9587 4044.
November 2004 111
Do You Eat, Breathe and Sleep TECHNOLOGY?
Opportunities for full-time and part-time positions all over Australia & New Zealand
Jaycar Electronics is a rapidly growing, Australian
owned, international retailer with more than 39 stores in
Australia and New Zealand. Our aggressive expansion
programme has resulted in the need for dedicated
individuals to join our team to assist us in achieving our
goals.
We pride ourselves on the technical knowledge of our
staff. Do you think that the following statements describe
you? Please put a tick in the boxes that do:
Knowledge of electronics, particularly at component level.
Assemble projects or kits yourself for car, computer, audio, etc.
Have empathy with others who have the same interest as you.
May have worked in some retail already (not obligatory).
Have energy, enthusiasm and a personality that enjoys
helping people.
Appreciates an opportunity for future advancement.
Have an eye for detail.
Why not do something you love and get paid for it? Please
write or email us with your details, along with your C.V.
and any qualifications you may have. We pay a
competitive salary, sales commissions and have great
benefits like a liberal staff purchase policy.
Advertising Index
Alternative Technology Assoc........7
Altronics........................ loose insert
Send to:
Retail Operations Manager - Jaycar Electronics Pty Ltd
P.O. Box 6424 Silverwater NSW 1811
Email: jobs<at>jaycar.com.au
Av-Comm...................................110
Jaycar Electronics is an equal opportunity employer and
actively promotes staff from within the organisation.
Eco Watch..................................112
Dick Smith Electronics........... 14-19
Elexol...........................................47
Evatco..........................................99
Grantronics.................................111
WEATHER STATIONS: windspeed &
direction, inside temperature, outside
temperature & windchill. Records highs
& lows with time and date as they occur.
Optional rainfall and PC interface. Used
by government departments, farmers,
pilots and weather enthusiasts. Other
models with barometric pressure, humidity, dew point, solar radiation, UV,
leaf wetness, etc. Just phone, fax or write
for our FREE catalog and price list. Eco
Watch phone: (03) 9761 7040; fax: (03)
9761 7050; Unit 5, 17 Southfork Drive,
Kilsyth, Vic. 3137. ABN 63 006 399 480.
WANTED
WANTED TO BUY: original Philips 12inch bass speaker. It’s used in the ETI
4000 speaker kit. (08) 8087 2592.
WANTED: CIRCUIT DIAGRAM for AWA
Pilotphone IX marine radio, plus display
in good order. Also, control head for
Philips FM900 series radio. Phone (03)
6427 9340.
Harbuch Electronics.....................87
Hy-Q International........................89
Instant PCBs..............................112
Jaycar ..................49-64,89,112,IFC
WANTED: EARLY HIFI’S, AMPLIFIERS, Speakers, Turntables, Valves,
Books, Quad, Leak, Pye, Lowther,
Ortofon, SME, Western Electric, Altec, Marantz, McIntosh, Goodmans,
Wharfedale, Tannoy, radio and wireless.
Collector/Hobbyist will pay cash. (02)
9440 1267. johnmurt<at>highprofile.
com.au
KIT ASSEMBLY
NEVILLE WALKER KIT ASSEMBLY
& REPAIR:
• Australia wide service
• Small production runs
• Specialist “one-off” applications
Phone Neville Walker (07) 3857 2752
Email: flashdog<at>optusnet.com.au
JED Microprocessors................5,89
Microgram Computers....................3
MicroZed Computers...............45,89
Oatley Electronics........................27
Ozitronics..............................45,111
Prime Electronics.........................43
Quest Electronics..................89,111
RCS Radio.................................110
RF Probes....................................99
Silicon Chip Back Issues.... 102-103
Silicon Chip Binders.....................47
Silicon Chip Bookshop....... 104-105
SC Car Projects Book................101
NOW
AVAILABLE
FROM
Silicon Chip Subscriptions...........65
Silvertone Electronics................111
Speakerbits................................111
www.siliconchip.com.au
Taig Machinery...........................111
Telelink Communications....89,OBC
VAF Australia..............................IBC
Project Reprints – Limited Back Issues –Limited One-Shots
If you’re looking for a project from ELECTRONICS AUSTRALIA, you’ll find it at SILICON CHIP! We can now
offer reprints of all projects which have appeared in Electronics Australia, EAT, Electronics Today,
ETI or Radio, TV & Hobbies. First search the EA website indexes for the project you want and then
call, fax or email us with the details and your credit card details. Reprint cost is $8.80 per article
(ie, 2-part projects cost $17.60). SILICON CHIP subscribers receive a 10% discount.
We also have limited numbers of EA back issues and special publications. Call for details!
visit www.siliconchip.com.au or www.electronicsaustralia.com.au
112 Silicon Chip
WIA..............................................89
____________________________
PC Boards
Printed circuit boards for SILICON
CHIP projects are made by:
RCS Radio Pty Ltd. Phone (02) 9738
0330. Fax (02) 9738 0334.
siliconchip.com.au
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