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For dry beds and
undisturbed sleep . . .
Be instantly alerted
when your toddler is
about to wet the bed.
This device will help
train your child by
immediate waking,
before the bed is wet.
Build this project
and look forward to
a happier child, dry
beds and undisturbed
sleep.
Bed Wetting Alert
by JOHN CLARKE
F
REQUENT BED-WETTING can
be a real problem for many
children. Occasional bed wetting by toddlers and young children
is normal and can be tolerated but it
can be a problem when it becomes a
regular occurrence. Ultimately, it is in
the best interest of the child to learn
how to have a dry night’s sleep without the unpleasantness of waking up
saturated and needing to have all the
bedclothes changed. From the parents’
perspective, there is the constant work
of extra washing of sheets, pyjamas
and bedding after each bed-wetting
incident has occurred.
Commercial bed-wetting alarms are
available but typically they involve the
use of an aluminium foil under-sheet.
They do work but the child and bedding still ends up being wringing wet
30 Silicon Chip
and you still have to go through the
process of changing wet bedclothes
in the middle of the night. This is the
big advantage of our new Bed-Wetting
Alert. It detects the immediate presence of wetness in the child’s nappy
and sounds the alarm to awaken the
child who can then toddle off to the
toilet. If not, the alarm will continue to
sound at a much lower level, indicating to the parent there has been an alert
condition which requires attention.
The Bed-Wetting Alert comprises a
key-fob sized transmitter and a receiver.
The transmitter has an attached Velcro
sensor strip with embedded wires to
sense wetness in the child’s crotch
and this causes the alarm to sound.
The transmitter can be clipped to the
hip section of the nappy or pyjama
pants or placed inside the pocket of
the pyjama pants. The hook side of the
Velcro secures well to brushed cotton
(flannelette) material and nappies.
As soon as the sensor detects even a
small amount of dampness, the transmitter sends a signal to the receiver to
sound the alarm. The alarm sounds
loudly for about 10 seconds before
dropping in level. Should the alarm
not wake the child, it will continue
sounding at a low level until the sensor strap is dry or is removed, or the
receiver is switched off.
In order to be able to use a very compact transmitter module, we decided
to base the circuit on Jaycar’s Secret
Farter (Cat. GH-1088, $19.95). While
this device has a trivial purpose, it is
really a useful transmitter and receiver
that sounds (!) when ever the transmitter button is pushed. As already noted,
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Fig.1: this is the modified transmitter. It uses MOSFET Q4 to turn it on in response to low resistance (moisture)
across the sensor inputs.
the transmitter is housed in a small
key fob style case, while the receiver
is housed in a compact case with four
AAA cells and a 50mm loudspeaker.
The project assembly involves fitting a small PC board into the receiver
case and replacing the transmitter’s
PC board with a new unit which uses
most of the transmitter parts.
Transmitter circuit
The circuit for the Bed-Wetting
Alert transmitter is shown in Fig.1. It
comprises a multivibrator using transistors Q1 & Q2 and an RF oscillator
using transistor Q3 which operates at
304MHz. The circuit is powered from
a 12V lighter battery.
MOSFET Q4 is switched on when
its gate voltage goes above about 3V.
Normally, the gate is held at 0V by the
1MΩ resistor. However, when the sensor wires become wet, current flows
from the 12V supply via the 100kΩ
resistor, between the two sensor wires
and via the second 100kΩ resistor and
this pulls Q4’s gate high so that it can
conduct and turn on the transmitter.
Diode D2 is there to protect the gate
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if the battery is inserted the wrong
way around, while diode D1 protects
the rest of the circuit if the battery is
wrongly connected. The 10nF capacitor is included to prevent noise from
switching on the MOSFET.
When power is applied to the oscillator part of the circuit, the multivibrator starts and produces a 200Hz
signal at the collector of transistor Q2.
This waveform is used to turn on and
off the RF oscillator comprising Q3,
trimmer VC1, the L1 tuned circuit and
the feedback applied to Q3’s base via
the 2pF capacitor. The transmitted
RF signal becomes bursts of 304MHz
signal at a 200Hz rate.
Bed-Wetting Alert circuit
The receiver for the Bed-Wetting
Alert is based on the Secret Farter.
We will not describe its operation
here but suffice to say that whenever
the receiver detects the transmission
signal, it produces a positive voltage
to cause the on-board sound generator/
amplifier to drive the speaker. We use
this positive voltage as the control input for the Bed-Wetting Alert Sounder
The project uses Jaycar’s Secret
Farter to obtain a low-cost transmitter
and receiver.
circuit which is shown in Fig.3. It is
designed to produce a modulated tone
when activated and this signal lasts for
around 10 seconds before dropping
to a lower sound level. The circuit is
September 2004 31
Fig.2: this is the block diagram for the receiver circuit. It requires a few modifications, including the removal of the
sound processor and amplifier (IC2), as shown here.
based on a 4093 quad 2-input NAND
gate Schmitt trigger package.
Two of the NAND gates are connected
as oscillators. IC1c is a tone oscillator
operating at about 500Hz, as set by
the 10nF capacitor, trimpot VR2 and
the 100kΩ resistor from pin 10. IC1c
does not oscillate continuously but is
controlled by IC1a and IC1d, the gating
oscillator which makes IC1c deliver a
beep beep beep (about twice a second)
instead of a continuous tone.
Initially, when the control input is
low (0V), transistor Q1 is off and the
inputs to IC1a will be pulled high via
the associated 1MΩ resistor. Pin 3 of
IC1a is therefore low (0V) as is pin 12,
so IC1d cannot oscillate. Because pin
12 of IC1d is held low, pin 11 stays
high and it lets IC1c oscillate, which
is not what we want. Therefore, D2 is
connected between pin 8 and pin 3 so
that when pin 3 is low, IC1c cannot
oscillate either.
When the receiver picks up a signal
from the transmitter, the control input
goes high, Q1 turns on, pin 3 of IC1a
goes high and both oscillators start
running. The gated tone oscillator
signal is fed to the complementary
buffer of transistors Q2 & Q3 and these
drive the loudspeaker via a 22µF nonpolarised capacitor.
Transistor Q4 provides a volume
control for the Alert Sounder. When
Q1 turns on to allow both oscillators
to run it also pulls pins 5 & 6 low via
the associated 10µF capacitor and so
pin 4 of IC1b goes high. This turns on
Fig.3: the Alert Sounder initially sounds the alarm for 10 seconds in response to the receiver’s control signal. It
then drops to a lower level as Q4 is turned off.
32 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Q4 so that it carries the full speaker
current.
After about 10 seconds, the 10µF
capacitor is fully charged and so pins
5 & 6 are pulled high again via the
associated 1MΩ resistor. Thus, Q4
turns off and the speaker is muted
to a low level, by virtue of the much
smaller current that now flows via its
1kΩ resistor to the +5.4V supply. The
low-level sound continues until the
power is switched off or the control
input goes low.
Construction
As noted above, this project is based
on Jaycar’s Secret Farter. The transmitter needs to be rebuilt onto a new PC
board coded 15109041 and measuring
30 x 45mm. This board then fits into
the original transmitter case and runs
from the same 12V battery. A second
PC board, coded 15109042 and measuring 57 x 42mm, is fitted into the
receiver case behind the loudspeaker.
Before starting, check that your
Secret Farter works by inserting the
batteries, switching on the receiver
and pressing the transmitter switch to
make a “socially inappropriate rude
noise” – we can’t bring ourselves to
say “fart” in this family magazine! If
it doesn’t operate, check the batteries,
as they may be flat.
Having confirmed that the unit operates, construction can proceed. Start
by checking the PC boards for any
undrilled holes or breaks or shorted
connections in the copper tracks. Fig.4
shows the component layouts for both
the transmitter PC board and the Alert
Sound board.
Note that the hole on the transmitter
PC board between the sensor connections and inductor L2 needs to be 3mm
in diameter for the case securing screw.
There are no mounting holes for the
Alert Sounder PC board as it is held in
position behind the loudspeaker once
the case is assembled.
Remove the parts one by one from
the original transmitter and place them
Fig.4: the new transmitter board (left) uses all the components from
the Secret Farter transmitter board, except for the switch, LED
and the 2.2kΩ resistor. At right is the parts layout for the
Alert Sounder board. It uses low profile “skeleton” trimpots,
while three capacitors need to be laid on their sides as
shown in the photo below.
The photo at right shows the completed transmitter
board, while below is the modified receiver unit
fitted with the Alert Sounder board.
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
o
o
o
o
o
o
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No.
3
4
3
2
1
Value
1MΩ
100kΩ
10kΩ
1kΩ
10Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black green brown
brown black yellow brown
brown black orange brown
brown black red brown
brown black black brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black yellow brown
brown black black orange brown
brown black black red brown
brown black black brown brown
brown black black gold brown
September 2004 33
transistors and capacitors. Note that
the electrolytics must be oriented
correctly except for the 22µF NP (nonpolarised) one. The three capacitors
near IC1 also need to be laid over on
their sides to allow clearance for the
loudspeaker – see photo.
Receiver modifications
The sensor strap is made by threading two 0.2mm tinned copper wires (8A fuse
wire) through the loops on a Velcro cable tie – see Fig.5. The wires are then fed
through to the other side of the strap at the end with the pink loop.
Each wire end is terminated to the shorting link in a jumper shunt. They are
then connected via a 4-pin SIL header and 2-wire cable to the transmitter.
This shows the completed
moisture sensor and its
companion transmitter unit.
in the new PC board, making sure they
are placed correctly and mounted as
close to the board as possible, otherwise the lid will not fit. Note that there
will be three parts left over: the switch,
LED and 2.2kΩ resistor. Once all the
original parts from the transmitter are
placed on the new PC board, insert
and solder in the remaining new parts.
MOSFET Q4 also needs to be mounted
squashed down on the PC board.
For the Alert Sounder board, install
the IC, resistors, diodes and trimpots
first. Take care to orient the diodes and
IC correctly. The specified trimpots are
the skeleton type, not cermet. These
are used to keep the component height
as low as possible. The higher cermet
type trimpots will not allow the case
to be assembled since they will foul
the loudspeaker.
Next, install the PC stakes, the
Before installing in the Alert
Sounder board in the receiver, check
that the new transmitter works. Do this
by shorting the two sensor terminals
with a wet finger or a screwdriver. In
some cases, you may need to adjust
trimmer capacitor VC1 ever so slightly
to get the unit to transmit on the right
frequency for the receiver. Do not move
the trimmer by much before testing
again. If the unit doesn’t work by turning the trimmer one way, try moving
it the other way.
Now remove the batteries from the
Secret Farter receiver and then remove
the PC board by taking out the two selftapping screws holding it to the rear of
the battery holder. There are two ICs on
this board, a dual in-line LM324 and
a single in-line 6-pin IC which is the
fart sound generator (IC2). This must
be removed. Fig.6 shows how the board
will look after modification.
Remove the glue around IC2 and
then desolder it from the PC board,
as well as the loudspeaker wires. That
done, replace C16 (4.7µF) with a 100µF
16V PC electrolytic. This capacitor
needs to be laid over at about 45° to
allow the case lid to fit. Make sure its
polarity is correct, then solder a 100kΩ
resistor across resistor R23.
Next, attach wires to the GND and
Control pads where the sound IC was
mounted and to the +6V terminal
on the slide switch. Pass the wires
through the slot in the PC board. Reattach the PC board to the rear of the
battery holder.
Now place the Alert Sound board
into the receiver case and wire up
the GND, Control and +6V wires to
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Parts List
1 transmitter PC board coded
15109041, 30 x 45mm
1 Alert Sounder PC board
coded, 15109042, 57 x 42mm
1 Secret Farter (Jaycar GH1088)
1 pack Velcro cable ties 25 x
140mm (Jaycar HP-1210)
2 shorting plugs for 0.1-inch
spaced header
1 4-way header plug
7 PC stakes
1 600mm length of light gauge
figure-8 flexible wire
1 300mm length of 0.2mm
tinned wire
1 100mm length of red light duty
hookup wire
1 50mm length of white light
duty hookup wire
1 50mm length of brown light
duty hookup wire
1 100mm length of light duty
figure-8 cable
1 10mm length of 3mm diameter
heatshrink tubing
1 10mm length of 20mm diameter heatshrink tubing
1 100kΩ horizontal mount skeleton trimpot (VR1)
1 1MΩ horizontal mount skeleton
trimpot (VR2)
Fig.5: assemble the sensor strap as shown here. It is made from a Velcro
cable tie, 0.2mm tinned copper wire (8A fuse wire), a 4-pin SIL header
and two jumper shunts fitted with shorting links.
the PC stakes. Also connect up the
loudspeaker using the original speaker
wires. Re-insert the batteries and check
that the alarm works when the transmitter sensor contacts are shorted as
before. If it doesn’t work, check the
supply to IC1. There should be about
5.4V between pins 7 & 14. Trimpots
VR1 and VR2 can then be adjusted to
your preferred sound.
Sensor strap
The sensor strap is made using two
Velcro cable ties (Jaycar Cat HP-1210),
a 4-way pin header and two shorting
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plugs. A short length of 2-way rainbow
cable (eg, figure-8) connects between
the transmitter sensor terminals to the
header plugs. The shorting plugs act
as connectors on the sensor strap assembly. Fig.5 shows the details.
The Velcro cable ties consist of a
strip of black Velcro with a square of
yellow Velcro hook material at one
end. The first job is to cut the yellow
square off one strip and sew it onto
the vacant end of another Velcro cable
tie. The Velcro hooks will anchor well
to the inside of flannelette pyjamas or
a nappy.
Semiconductors
1 4093 quad 2-input Schmitt
NAND gate (IC1)
1 BC547 NPN transistor (Q1)
2 BC337 NPN transistors (Q2,Q4)
1 BC327 PNP transistor (Q3)
1 2N7000 N-channel MOSFET
(Q4 on transmitter board)
1 1N4004 1A diode (D1)
2 1N4148 diodes (D2,D3)
Capacitors
4 100µF 16V PC electrolytic (1
required for the Secret Farter
receiver)
1 22µF NP or BP electrolytic
2 10µF 16V PC electrolytic
2 10nF ceramic (.01µF code 103
or 10n)
Resistors
3 1MΩ
4 100kΩ (1 required for the
Secret Farter receiver)
3 10kΩ
2 1kΩ
1 10Ω
September 2004 35
Fig.6: this
diagram shows
the modifications
required to the
Secret Farter
receiver board.
Note that IC2 (the
amplifier) must be
removed.
Fig.7: here are the actual size artworks for the two PC boards.
Now sew two lengths of 0.2mm
tinned copper wire (ie, 8A fuse wire)
to the loop side of the Velcro strip and
terminate each wire at the end with the
material loop tag to a shorting plug. In
each case, loop the wire through the
side hole in the plug and around the
exposed metal bridge.
Note that the shorting plugs are
to be located on the hook side of the
Velcro and are secured to the Velcro
using cotton thread. The two shorting
plugs are placed side-by-side and sewn
securely using the side hole to locate
the piece and covering over with cotton to tie down the plugs. Since the
Velcro cable straps come in packs of
five, you can make two sensor straps,
so that one can be washed while the
other is being used.
The 4-way header is used to make
the connections to the figure-8 cable
from the transmitter sensor terminals.
The wires can be soldered as shown,
with the whole assembly covered in
some heatshrink tubing.
The plug is passed through the
material loop at the end of the Velcro
strap and wrapped around this before
being plugged into the two shorting
plug sockets on the sensor. This will
prevent the cord from pulling out. The
wire length should be only as short as
necessary to avoid it becoming tangled
with the child’s limbs.
The wiring into the transmitter
should be protected with a sheath of
heatshrink tubing at the point where
the cable exits the case. You will need
to file a small diameter hole in the base
and lid of the transmitter case using a
rat-tail file to allow clearance for the
connecting cable.
In use, the child should wear two
pairs of pants or a pair of pants plus
a nappy. The Velcro sensor strap is
placed between the two pants, in the
crotch area, with the hook side of the
strap fastened to the nappy. You can
locate the transmitter case either near
th hip using the clip on the case or it
can go in a pocket.
The receiver should ideally be
placed close by the bed so the child
will hear the alarm. Of course, the
whole procedure should be fully
explained to the child, to help in the
training process. Hopefully, after a
couple of weeks, it can be dispensed
with but if it has to be used for a long
period, battery life in the transmitter
should be quite good. However, the
batteries in the receiver case may have
to be replaced more often, as the alarm
volume drops.
The photo at left shows the modified Secret Farter receiver board, with the external wiring connections to the new
Sounder Board. The photo at right shows how the +6V connection is made to the underside of this board.
36 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
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