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Get an extra octave of bass
with this . . .
Bass
Extender
This Bass Extender circuit can give you as
much as an extra octave of bass response
from your existing hifi speakers, as long as
you are not running them near full power.
Design by RICK WALTERS
T
HIS MAY SOUND like black
magic. Just how is it possible to get
an extra octave of bass response from
a hifi loudspeaker? Well, the theory
supporting this idea originates from
Neville Thiele’s 1961 paper (1) on
loudspeakers and vented enclosures.
He postulated that the response of a
loudspeaker in a vented enclosure
was similar to a fourth-order high-pass
filter, rolling off in the bass region at
-24dB per octave. For a sealed enclo-
Fig.1: the response in a vented enclosure is similar to a fourth-order
high-pass filter, rolling off in the bass region at -24dB per octave (red
trace). Similarly, the response in a sealed enclosure rolls off at -12dB per
octave (green trace), much like a second-order filter. This graph plots the
response of hypothetical speakers with a cutoff frequency of 70Hz.
60 Silicon Chip
sure, the response was similar to a
second order high-pass filter, rolling
off at -12dB per octave.
Fig.1 shows this for hypothetical
speakers that are -3dB down at 70Hz
(the cutoff frequency), in each type
of enclosure. Now if we apply bass
boost with an amplitude of +3dB at
70Hz, rising to a maximum boost of
around 11dB or so (for a sealed enclosure), it will partially compensate for
the speaker’s rolloff and thus extend
the bass response by as much as an
octave.
As we’ll see later, the Bass Extender
can be tailored for either type of
enclosure, applying less boost to a
vented enclosure than a sealed enclosure. This is the opposite of what
you might expect but is necessary
because the speaker cone in a vented
enclosure has little loading below the
box resonance.
There is a limit to the amount of bass
compensation we can apply anyway.
A speaker’s cone excursion increases
as frequency decreases, so large bass
boost levels would test the mechanics
of the speaker as well as the damping ability of the enclosure. Also, it
is likely that some power amplifiers
would run into clipping.
Even with all these limitations, we
can usually gain an extra octave without major problems. This is much more
precise than merely boosting the bass
with your amplifier’s tone controls, as
it’s compensating for the loudspeaker’s
natural rolloff.
Note this does not mean that the
overall bass from the speaker will
increase for all music. Since the bass
response will be extended to a lower
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.2: the circuit includes two identical channels, each consisting of an input buffer followed by an equal component
Sallen-Key filter. As shown, the circuit is configured for vented enclosures but will also work with sealed enclosures
by changing the indicated resistor values.
frequency (say, 35Hz instead of 70Hz)
you will only hear the difference if the
music signal includes bass content at
these low frequencies. Incidentally,
if your loudspeakers have a response
down to 50Hz or better, there is no
point in building the Bass Extender.
Speaker specifics
The catch in this process is that you
need to know the rated cutoff frequency for your speakers. Once you know
this, you need to calculate a particular
resistor value for the bass boost circuit.
Apart from that, the circuit is simple
and foolproof.
So, what is the rated cutoff frequency
for your hifi loudspeakers? If you have
the manufacturer’s original specs, it
is easy. They should give a frequency
response curve and you just look to see
where the bass response is 3dB down
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.3: the cutoff frequency of your speakers can be determined from the
manufacturer’s data sheets. Here, the frequency response curve from a VAF
DC-7 G4 shows a -3db point around 25Hz. In this case, there is absolutely
no point in building the Bass Extender!
April 2005 61
Fig.4: the performance of the prototype when set up for speakers with a
70Hz cutoff frequency. The green trace shows the boost curve for a sealed
enclosure, whereas the red trace is for a vented enclosure.
with respect to the output at a higher
reference frequency, say 200Hz. An
example frequency response curve is
shown in Fig.3 (this example has a very
good low-frequency response).
Failing that, have a look at the
speaker’s impedance curve, if you have
it. For a bass reflex (vented) enclosure,
the impedance curve will have a double hump in the bass region. The -3dB
point is usually to be found in the dip
between the two humps.
Similarly, if you have a sealed enclosure, the impedance curve will have a
single peak (the system resonance) in
the bass region and the -3dB point will
be about 10% below that. For example,
if the system resonance for a sealed
enclosure is at 80Hz, the -3dB point
will be around 70Hz. If we wanted
to compensate a vented enclosure,
we need to boost the bass by 3dB at
70Hz, rising to a maximum of 6dB at
around 35Hz.
Circuit details
Fig.2 shows the circuit details. It
uses two op amps per channel, all in a
TL074 quad op amp package. We will
discuss only one channel, since both
channels are identical.
The input signal for the left channel is fed through a 1mF capacitor
and a resistive attenuator to the noninverting input (pin 5) of op amp IC1a,
which is wired as a unity gain buffer.
The 68kW and 39kW resistors at pin 5
result in a loss of 2.74 times (-8.76dB).
To compensate for this loss, op amp
IC1c provides a gain of 2.74 (+8.76dB)
so that the overall circuit gain is unity;
ie, zero gain.
Apart from providing some gain,
IC1c is configured as an equal compo-
SPECIFI CATION S
Frequency response................... -3dB <at> 61kHz (see graph for bass response)
Signal to noise ratio....................... -70dB unweighted, -83dB A-weighted (with
respect to 1V, 20Hz - 20kHz bandwidth)
Total harmonic distortion........................ 0.02% at 1kHz and 20kHz (1V input)
Signal handling....................... 2.5V RMS maximum input level (12V DC supply)
Crosstalk................................................................................ 60dB (typical)
62 Silicon Chip
nent Sallen-Key filter. How it works is
quite complex but in simple terms, the
resistors from the output (pin 8) to the
junction of the two 100nF capacitors
provide positive feedback below a certain frequency. Thus the gain increases
to provide the bass boost characteristic
we want. This is shown in Fig.4.
Naturally, the shape of the bass boost
curve will need to vary, depending on
whether we are compensating for a
sealed enclosure or a vented enclosure
(bass reflex) and the rated cutoff (-3dB
point) of the loudspeaker system.
Accordingly, the values of resistors R1, R2 & R3 on the circuit are for
vented enclosures. If you have sealed
enclosures (bass reflex), R1 should be
changed to 27kW, R2 to 47kW and R3
to 39kW.
Similarly, the value of the four
resistors marked RS depends on your
speaker’s cutoff frequency and this is
calculated using the formula:
RS = RT - 33kW
where RT = 3,180,000 ÷ fc and fc =
speaker cutoff frequency.
This formula applies to both sealed
and vented enclosures. For example,
if your speakers have a cutoff frequency (-3dB point) of 70Hz, RT =
3,180,000 ÷ 70 = 45.4kW. Subtracting
33kW from this figure gives a value of
12kW for RS.
You will have to do the calculations
for your own system before you can
assemble this project.
Power supply
The circuit can be powered from
12-20V DC. Diode D1 provides input
polarity protection.
Two 10kW resistors divide the supply rail in half (VCC/2). This is used
as a bias voltage for IC1, necessary to
allow the op amp to work with AC
signals when running from a single
supply rail.
Provision has been made for a power
indicator (LED1) but we expect that
most readers will not install this. It
should not be installed if the board is
to be powered from a DC plugpack, as
the extra current drain will increase
supply hum.
Construction
All parts for the Bass Extender
mount on a small PC board, measuring 74 x 56mm (code 01104051). As
usual, begin by checking the PC board
for defects. Now is also a good time
to enlarge the mounting holes for the
siliconchip.com.au
Par t s Lis t
1 PC board, code 01104051, 74
x 56mm
1 UB3 size plastic case (Jaycar
HB-6013 or similar) (optional)
2 dual PC-mount RCA sockets
1 2.1 or 2.5mm PC-mount DC
socket
2 6G x 6mm self-tapping screws
for RCA sockets
1 16-pin IC socket
Fig.5: use this
diagram as a guide
during assembly.
Take care with the
orientation of the
diode (D1), op amp
(IC1) and the 100mF
& 330mF capacitors.
The 1mF & 2.2mF
capacitors are nonpolarised and can go
in either way.
Semiconductors
1 TL074 op amp (IC1)
1 3mm or 5mm red LED
(optional; see text)
1 1N4004 diode (D1)
Capacitors
1 330mF 25V PC electrolytic
1 100mF 16V PC electrolytic
2 1mF 16V non-polarised
PC electrolytic
2 2.2mF 16V non-polarised PC
electrolytic
4 100nF 50V metallised
polyester (MKT)
1 100nF 50V monolithic ceramic
2 10pF 50V disc ceramic
Right: this view
shows the prototype
PC board assembly.
Note that there
are some minor
differences between
this prototype and
the final version
shown in Fig.5 above.
Resistors (0.25W 1%)
2 1MW
2 27kW
2 68kW
2 22kW
2 47kW
2 10kW
2 39kW
1 1.5kW
6 33kW
2 100W
RCA sockets and/or power socket, if
required.
Next, install the single wire link,
diode (D1) and all of the resistors,
using the overlay diagram (Fig.5) as a
guide. It’s a good idea to check resistor values with a multimeter before
installation. Note that the banded
(cathode) end of the diode must be
oriented as shown.
Follow up with the IC socket and all
of the capacitors. The larger 100mF and
330mF electrolytic capacitors are polarised and must be inserted with their
positive leads oriented as indicated
by the “+” markings on the overlay.
The two RCA sockets and power
socket can be left until last. Push them
all the way down on the PC board before soldering them in position. That
done, plug in the TL074 (IC1), watch-
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
siliconchip.com.au
No.
2
2
2
2
6
2
2
2
1
2
Value
1MW
68kW
47kW
39kW
33kW
27kW
22kW
10kW
1.5kW
100W
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black green brown
blue grey orange brown
yellow violet orange brown
orange white orange brown
orange orange orange brown
red violet orange brown
red red orange brown
brown black orange brown
brown green red brown
brown black brown brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black yellow brown
blue grey black red brown
yellow violet black red brown
orange white black red brown
orange orange black red brown
red violet black red brown
red red black red brown
brown black black red brown
brown green black brown brown
brown black black black brown
April 2005 63
DIY Loudspeaker Measurements
H
ow do you measure your speaker’s
resonance in its enclosure? For
both types of enclosures, you will need
an audio oscillator, an analog multimeter, AC millivoltmeter or oscilloscope and a 47W resistor. A frequency counter can be used to set
your oscillator’s output if it lacks an
accurately calibrated scale.
Bass reflex (ie, with a vent): connect
the oscillator’s output to the speaker
terminals, running one of the connections via the 47W resistor. That
done, monitor the voltage across the
speaker terminals (set your meter to
its lowest AC range) and slowly reduce
the oscillator frequency, starting off
at about 200Hz. The reading should
rise to a maximum then fall then rise
again. The middle of the dip is the
resonant frequency of the speaker
and enclosure combination.
Sealed (closed box or infinite baffle): the same setup is used as for a
bass reflex design but instead of a
dip between two peaks, your meter
should rise to a maximum then fall.
The peak is the resonant frequency
of the system.
In most cases, the system resonance will be near your speaker’s
free-air resonance but can be a little
higher or lower depending on the
enclosure size.
If you cannot get a reasonable
reading on your multimeter, perhaps
due to the low output level from your
oscillator, you will have to feed the oscillator into an audio amplifier. Place
the resistor (preferably 5W or so) in
series with the ungrounded output of
the amplifier and the speaker.
Connect the multimeter across the
speaker terminals and set the oscillator output to give about 1V on the
multimeter at 200Hz (with the amplifier turned on, naturally). Then follow
the relevant procedure above.
ing that you have the notched (pin 1)
end around the right way.
Testing
Fig.6: this is the full
size etching pattern
for the PC board.
To test the Bass Extender you will
need an audio oscillator and a multimeter or oscilloscope.
Start with the oscillator set to about
1kHz, with 450-500mV RMS output.
Check the output of the oscillator with
your multimeter (or millivoltmeter) if
it doesn’t have a calibrated amplitude
scale.
Apply power and connect the oscillator to the left and right RCA inputs
in turn. Measure the amplitude of the
signals at the corresponding RCA outputs; they should be almost identical
to the inputs.
Now set the oscillator to your speaker’s resonant frequency; eg, 80Hz.
Fig.7: if you’re installing
your board into a case,
a photocopy of this
drilling guide will make
life much easier.
64 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
The PC board can either be mounted inside
an existing stereo amplifier or it can be
mounted inside a small “UB3” size plastic
instrument case as shown here. You will
need to drill holes in one side of the case
for the RCA sockets and to provide access
to the DC power socket (see Fig.7).
Measure each channel again and this
time you should find that the outputs
read about 40% higher (+3dB).
Finally, measure each channel while
tweaking the oscillator frequency to
obtain the maximum possible reading. For a bass reflex (vented) enclosure, the maximum output should be
around twice the input (+6dB), while
for a sealed enclosure it should be
about 3.5 times higher (+11dB), in line
with the performance of our prototype
(see Fig.4).
If the results aren’t what you expect,
then go back and re-check your resistor calculations. If you don’t get any
bass boost, it is likely that the value
calculated for RS is much too large.
For those without the appropriate
test gear, a listening test will quickly
tell whether the Bass Extender is doing its job. Simply hook the project
into one channel of your hifi system
and listen to the bass with a suitable
music program; the difference between
channels should be noticeable.
Housing
The Bass Extender could be used
in a variety of ways. For example,
it could be installed inside a stereo
amplifier and patched into a tape loop
or inserted between the preamp and
power amplifier stages. It could also
be used in a car sound system.
siliconchip.com.au
Where a separate enclosure is
required, the board can be installed
inside a small “UB3” size plastic instrument case. Mounting details for
this option are as follows:
Photocopy the drilling template
(Fig. 7) and place it centrally along the
open edge of the plastic case, fixing it
in place with adhesive tape. Mark and
drill the holes, starting with small pilot
holes and working up to the final size
in several steps. A tapered reamer can
also be used to enlarge the holes.
The three ribs on the inside of the
case should be removed with a sharp
knife or chisel to allow the power
socket to fit flush with the inside. The
bottom 5mm or so of the three ribs on
the other side may need to be removed
if the board is reluctant to fit.
Drop the PC board into the case and
then slide the board backwards. The
sockets will drop into their holes and
the two self-tapping screws can then
be fitted to hold the RCA sockets and
PC board in place.
References
(1). A. Neville Thiele, “Loudspeakers
in Vented Boxes,” Proceedings of the
IRE Australia, August 1961; reprinted
Journal of Audio Engineering Society,
SC
May & June 1971.
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