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“433” Revisited
We touched on 433434MHz wireless data
back in the July 2003
Picaxe article but here’s
an updated workout
focusing on the dirt
cheap “get you started”
modules now around.
by Stan Swan*
S
O YOU WANT to cut the cable clutter and go
wireless on your project? WiFi? Bluetooth?
ZigBee? Infrared? All offer very fast data
speeds but have “fish hooks”, not the least of which
is infrared’s need for a totally unobstructed link.
Or the other’s need for a computer or two!
So how about – gulp – just 2400 bps?! In an age
when wireless datacomms push speed boundaries
to WiFi’s “g” 54 Mega bps, such a few kilobits per second
may seem downright pedestrian and akin to dial-up modems in the XT/AT ’80s!
But when crucial data items need sending, for example to
unlock your car or raise the garage door, sheer speed is often
incidental to module size, convenience and reliability.
Naturally, tight budgets and ease of project integration
feature too. You don’t want to have to fire up a WiFi PC
every time you need to open the garage door !
New cheap modules
To cater for experiments with simple-but-reliable shortrange wireless control, Jaycar have recently released a
budget pair of 433MHz UHF wireless data modules suiting
both experienced users and even perhaps novices needing
stimulating “21st century crystal sets”.
Classic crystal sets of course were popular in the presemiconductors 1920s-50s and stimulated many a school
student (yes, myself included – again) into exploring
wireless mysteries when parts were costly and AM radio
was king.
Given the lament that today’s electronic goodies come
so pre-built that users lack investigative curiosity, these
433MHz units may be just the motivational ticket to crack
siliconchip.com.au
technical inertia. Everyone should build a “crystal set” at
least once!
Jaycar’s sub-$10, tiny stamp-sized ZW-3100 transmitter
and matching ZW-3102 receiver are similar to assorted
“key fob” ASK (Amplitude Shift Keying) OOK (On Off
Keying) serial data units that have of course been widely
marketed for some time.
Enhanced FM data transceiver multi-channel versions
costing A$30-$100 (such as those sold by Oatley Electronics) are better suited to more demanding or professional
data work, therefore have not been considered
We mentioned a TX433/RX433 pair from WA firm Computronics back in the July 2003 Picaxe datacomms article.
Typically retailing for just A$8 each, they’re often labelled
TWS/TLP and RWS/RLP 433 or the like via makers such
as Rentron or Laipac.
A Google on “433 ISM”, etc, will locate many offerings.
Superior Ming or Chipcon versions also exist but being
enhanced FM transceiver multi-channel versions, stretch
to more like A$40 – rather beyond the scope (and budget!)
of this article.
All occupy the 433.920MHz licence-free ISM (Industrial,
Scientific and Medical) UHF band actually some 1.7MHz
wide (433.050-434.790MHz). The alternative LIPD title
(Low Interference Potential Device) relates to the very low
December 2005 85
SUITABLE ANTENNA:
~170mm WHIP OR
YAGI
TRANSMITTER
(TO PC
SERIAL PORT)
CON2
DB9
C1
100nF
2
22k
3
10k
5
I/O
PINS
1
2
3
IC1
PICAXE-08M
4
7
0
330Ω
6
1
330Ω
5
8
2
330Ω
ON
λ
LED
λ
LED
3
λ
PIEZO
TRANSDUCER
(OPTIONAL)
10kΩ
433.92MHz
ISM
TRANSMITTER
MODULE
(JAYCAR
ZW-1300
OR SIMILAR)
ANT
+V
DATA
4.5V
GND
LED
4
4
1
RECEIVER
PIEZO
SOUNDER
(OR EVEN
32 Ω
PERSONAL
STEREO
HEADPHONE)
LED
433.92MHz ISM RECEIVER MODULE
(JAYCAR ZW-1302
OR SIMILAR)
+5V
DATA
DATA
GND
Using the cheap 433-434MHz modules (a
selection of which is shown on the previous
page, not far off life-size) really is child’s
play, especially when teamed up with our
new best friend, the Picaxe! Above is the
transmitter – the LEDs and their associated
resistors (plus of course the piezo) could
be considered optional if you want to keep
it simple. At right is the receiver – a single
transistor amplifier is all that is needed to
drive the piezo/headphone). It’s rough – but
it works more than satisfactorily!
SUITABLE ANTENNA:
~170mm WHIP OR
YAGI
ANT
GND
GND
+5V
8
C
B
10kΩ
E
DS547, etc
(ANY G/P NPN
TRANSISTOR)
ON
4.5V
power transmitter restriction of just 25mW. Most run even
offerings and for this alone Jaycar’s units may be worth
lower that this, with 5mW being typical! Although just ~1%
paying a little bit extra for (you can sometimes find similar
of cheap half watt 477MHz UHF CB sets, such flea power
items at disposals sources for perhaps $5-$8).
will normally still yield a range of a 20-50 metres in builtThey originate, as RXB1 and TXC1, from Taiwanese
up areas and even several hundred metres unobstructed.
makers Keymark (www.keymark.com.tw) and thankfully
A simple “cotanga” Yagi antenna, styled after the
turn out to be virtually pin-for-pin compatible with ear477MHz design shown in our February 2005 UHF CB article, can push
this to around a kilometre line of sight
(LOS), and may be especially useful for
crossing valleys or water (perhaps at a
marina or lake).
Although 433MHz is not so obstructed by buildings and trees as 2.4GHz
WiFi, the far lower power means
ranges, all up, are much the same.
Jaycar’s pair appeal both for their
rumoured superior performance and
– gasp – quality labelling! In a nanotechnology age when molecules can
be stacked like Lego, it’s most frustrating to be faced with devices devoid of
details that makers could have readily
silk-screened on.
Although a close inspection of the
units reveals many receiver pins are
duplicated and linked on the small PC
board, the multiple connections can
bewilder even old hands.
Knowing here “which pin does Here’s the Picaxe-powered 433MHz transmitter from the circuit above, mounted
what” is reassuring after confusion in our new “PICNIK” box. In this case, only one LED is included, driven by the
with absent markings on other 433MHz Picaxe data line which also drives the transmitter and piezo.
86 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
this has become the default Picaxe supply as well).
OK – power needs are now sorted out
and the modules fitted to our ever faithful
protoboards.
For those who’ve just come in and are
unaware of my enthusiasm(!) for Picaxe
microcontrollers, they really look the
data engine of choice for the 433MHz
modules.
I’ve recently been developing a more
compact and cheaper kit for the Picaxe
08M in fact and have managed to squeeze
these ISM units into the new Mk.2 PICNIK
box as well. See the ~800kB animated gif
“slide show” at www.picaxe.orcon.net.
nz/picnik2.gif
The initial supply detective work lead
to further productive tinkering with the
modules’ data lines.
The receiver protoboard is very simple, with just the module, one transistor,
one LED and one resistor – plus, of course, the external connections.
lier 433MHz ASK modules I’ve used. Simple swap-over
tests with the ZW-3102 receiver (being a quality Himark
RX3400-based PLL superhet rather than a super-regen)
showed it noticeably more sensitive than cheaper units,
which further justify the slightly higher price.
Don’t believe the specs!
Instead of “boring” old serial data, we
can have assorted tones, Morse beacons
and even tunes handled by these units!
A benefit of this is that any old UHF scanner can receive
the info as plain audio. Naturally, this may suit a hidden
transmitter “fox hunt”, a simple location/proximity beacon
or even audible telemetry and security.
Line of sight ranges were some 300m with simple
(¼-wave) 170mm whips, but to around 1km when paired
with a simple “cotanga” antenna (www.picaxe.orcon.
net.nz/yagi433.jpg) at the ZW-3102 receiver. The long
established “70cm” (420-450MHz) amateur band brackets
the ISM slot, meaning numerous sensitive UHF receivers
probably lurk in broom cupboards just awaiting such a
fresh task anyway.
In spite of other diverse warbling and croaking tone
signals at 433MHz, especially originating from keyless
car remotes (readily heard near a supermarket car park!),
the UHF spectrum has a low background noise level and
receivers can be very sensitive indeed.
It’s beyond the scope of this article to go into the maths
involved but below is a simple table relating RF (radio
frequency) signal strengths (in microvolts across a 50W
load) to dBm (milliwatt) and communication receiver “S”
readings.
A 6dB change is equivalent to signal strength (and thus
range) doubling or halving. Hence a simple 6dB gain “cotanga” Yagi should double distance, while a 12dB gain
antenna (feasible at this frequency) will “double x double”
Initial testing of the Jaycar units was most satisfactory,
in spite of misleading details provided in both their 2005
catalog (p73) and support web page.
The receiver doesn’t just run on the stated 3V but is instead designed for a nominal 5V supply – nicely handled
by three fresh alkaline or four NiMH AA cells, delivering
around 4.8V. Only very small currents of around 5mA are
taken (meaning batteries should last weeks).
Much lab and web sleuthing verified this supply and
the error must be causing lots of hassles to bright sparks
thwarted at 3V power-up stage.
Annoyingly the Jaycar support .pdf is mostly in Chinese,
limiting even the ready reading of diagrams unless language
extras are downloaded. Grrr... Fortunately I have several
Chinese-speaking (and reading!) students who were able
to help.
Happily, the receiver, in common with other such modules, runs well outside the “tight” 5V specification, to as
high as 6V or as low as 4.3V before cutout.
ISM receivers will normally end up mounted indoors
in a garage (or car etc) powered by a
mV
dBm
regulated supply but in contrast, the
companion transmitters are destined
50.0
-73
for portable key-fob mounts powered
8.0
-89
by small coin or 12V batteries.
4.0
-95
Because of the associated battery run
(2.24
-100)
down with use, the transmitter supply
2.0
-101
is usually much more flexible, and they
1.0
-107
were found to work to well between
0.5
-113
2V and 6V, with 12V even a possibil0.25
-119
0.125
-125
ity. A 4.5V (3 x AA) battery supply is
(0.1
-127)
ideal for them too (and conveniently
siliconchip.com.au
Abracadabra!
Traditional “S” Meter Reading
S9 (by definition)
S6
S5
S4
S3
S2
S1
S0
(a typical 434 Rx sensitivity)
(about the limit of Jaycar’s 434 module)
(about 1 strength “bar” on a scanner)
(almost lost in scanner background noise)
December 2005 87
2x
10kΩ
1kΩ
C
1kΩ
100nF
100nF
100nF
ON
OUTPUT
R2
10k
C
PIEZO
TRANSDUCER
(OPTIONAL)
B
B
2x
DS547, etc
E (ANY G/P NPN TRANSISTOR) E
4.5V
OSCILLATION FREQUENCY (f) ~
~ 700Hz
ANT
+V
ON
DATA
GND
10kΩ
INPUT
FROM
OSCILLATOR
6
2
8
ON
4
3
555
5
1
4.5V
100nF
OUTPUT
PIEZO
TRANSDUCER
(OPTIONAL)
4.5V
1.44
(R1 + 2R2) x C1
WITH VALUES SHOWN: f ~
~ 400Hz
If you want to drive a transmitter module direct (ie, without PICAXE
control), here’s how to do it. The two circuits above, with their protoboarded pics above that again, are for simple oscillators – at left is an
astable multivibrator which was one of the mainstays of oscillators
until the 555 timer came along (above right). As you can see, it is even
simpler and doesn’t cost much more – 555s are really cheap! The
curly wire disappearing from the photos is the antenna – a piece of
wire 170mm long. It’s curled to reduce the overall height.
At left is one of the transmitter modules wired to work directly from
the oscillator output, via the 100nF capacitor.
(or x 4) both this and signal strength.
Most of these cheap 433MHz ISM receivers have rated
sensitivities around -103dBm to -106dBm (about 1.5mV)
and although impressive (for the size and price!), the low
UHF spectrum noise means even a 1mV (-107dB) signal
is considered quite strong at these frequencies. Modern
radio scanners, or more professional ISM receivers, will
readily detect signals down to 0.15mV (~-124dBm) with
corresponding range extensions to perhaps several km.
Audio transmitter circuit
Any of the 433MHz transmitters are able to be turned
(and held) on by simply pulling their data input line high
with a 10kW resistor to the positive supply. Assorted tones
can then be fed into this input via a 100nF capacitor (for
DC isolation) and served to acceptably modulate the output
as FM, rather than the normal On/Off keying. Although
88 Silicon Chip
C1
120nF
7
OSCILLATION FREQUENCY (Hz) =
SUITABLE ANTENNA:
~170mm WHIP OR
YAGI
433.92MHz
ISM
TRANSMITTER
MODULE
(JAYCAR
ZW-1300
OR SIMILAR)
R1
10k
the transmitter could be supplied tones by a transistor
oscillator or 555 IC (refer to diagrams and pictures), such
an approach is now almost redundant given the versatility
of a Picaxe-08M instead.
Splutter – you’ve not heard of a Picaxe? Where have you
been? These darlings are now almost as indispensable as
can openers! Easy software readily rustles up pulsating
tones, Morse ID or even simple tunes (08M pin 2) and also
allows battery saving “sleep” power-downs.
Given the 20mA sink/source limit of a Picaxe, it is easily
able to deliver the 10mA needed. Even power to the entire
transmitter module can be controlled by an output (here
channel/pin 4), so as to further save batteries and make
hidden transmitter hunts more lively!
Check the pictures and schematic for the suggested
Morse ID layout and port across the code (433txcw.bas) to
the Picaxe-08M. For convenience the code can be copied
siliconchip.com.au
RECEIVER
TRANSMITTER
PIEZO OR
HEADPHONE
ANTENNA
(170mm)
A
LED
K
10kΩ
A G G +V
C
E
RECEIVER
MODULE
+V D D G
B
TRANSISTOR
4.5V
Protoboard wiring for the receiver (left) and transmitter (right).
The Picaxe needs to be coded with 433txcw.bas – and when you start to play with it, you can change the code to your
heart’s content. The Picaxe programming is done via the RS232 port on your PC – pins 5, 3 and 2 of the D9 connector
are used. If this is your first time with the remarkable Picaxe chips, refer to the Picaxe series run in SILICON CHIP
during 2003-2004. The piezo lets you hear the outgoing signal, if you wish.
and pasted from the web sites www.siliconchip.com.au or
www.picaxe.orcon.net.nz/433txcw.bas
Naturally adjust the beacon code to suit your ID needs
– it’s presently sending .... .. (Morse for “HI”) about every
10 seconds.
Audio receiver circuit
Again any of the 433MHz receiver offerings worked in
the simple setup shown. Outputs at the piezo sounder and
LED however were weak, so a very simple 1-transistor NPN
amplifier was used to boost these to acceptable levels. Of
course, this common emitter amplifier should have further
biasing resistors etc, but its performance was well suited
to the task here.
For convenience, even a 32-ohm personal stereo headphone could be used instead of the piezo. Note that the
circuit has no squelch, and thus background “hiss” may
annoy on weak signals and during transmitter power
down. Naturally, a more sophisticated UHF scanner will
address this.
Applications
We’ll extend these basic ISM circuits in a later article but
once working here, it’s suggested you use them initially for
simple “Easter Egg” hunting of hidden transmitters. Especially in a more open region such as a park, several hidden
“fox” transmitters – each sending different IDs – could be
activated for the “hounds” to locate. Simple (coiled) 170mm
whips can be body shielded (or even removed) when close
to the signal, although Yagi beams (see overleaf) offer fair
direction finding and triangulation.
NB: be careful of poking yourself in the eye with these
antenna elements when in scrub and bush – perhaps put
blobs of silicon seal or hot melt glue on the wire ends to
prevent this happening.
siliconchip.com.au
Are you into model aircraft/balloons/rockets? How about
a 433MHz beacon payload as well, perhaps with a white
LED for after-dark locating up a tree.
We’re not suggesting you pester your pets but a compacted (35mm film canister?) transmitter could even be
attached to a dog’s collar as a DF (direction finding) aid to
his whereabouts when chasing rabbits or other dogs!
Incidentally, since ACMA regulations specify 25mW
effective radiated power, it’s perhaps best to keep the transmitter antenna omni-directional to avoid infringing this
limit and put constructive zeal into the receiver antenna.
There’s no reason why the circuits have to be as large
as shown here – for more compact designs, the receiver
especially could be squeezed into a tiny case and powered
by a 9V battery suitably 7805-regulated to 5V.
You may not even need a PC board; just “dead bug” the
transistor and resistor to the receiver module!
The more involved (Picaxe-driven) transmitter could
even be powered by small PV cells, perhaps rescued from
cheap solar garden lamps now flooding hardware stores.
Most of these deliver 2V at 30mA in bright sun, so a couple
in series will power the entire transmitter, the Picaxe and
even charge a couple of NiMH cells for night-time duty.
Given the ease of linking in switches, LDRs, thermistors
and DS18B20 temperature sensors to a Picaxe-08M, it’d be
a breeze to rig up a simple security, proximity or telemetry
application sending distinctive audio tones.
Mmm – Hellschreiber? Naturally the fundamental DATA
handling nature of these 433MHz modules shouldn’t be
forgotten either. Stay tuned!
References
For convenience these are all hosted at web site www.
picaxe.orcon.net.nz/433txrx.htm
* s.t.swan<at>massey.ac.nz
December 2005 89
Want to build a quick-n-easy 433/434MHz Antenna?
Here’s the latest antenna that Stan Swan has come up with
for fox hunting and general 433/434MHz work. It’s a fourelement yagi built, of all things, from telescopic magnetic
pickup tools. They’re cheap and make the antenna very
easy to adjust. Gain is approximately 6dB.
Being a Yagi, it is directional – it transmits in, and receives
from, the direction of the arrow at the top of the picture. It has
a driven element, two directors (the shorter elements in front
of the driven element) and one reflector. The slight offset of
the elements won’t make much practical difference.
Since 433.92MHz signals have a conveniently compact wavelength of 692mm (300,000,000/433,920,000),
all manner of desktop-sized UHF antenna can be readily rustled up using common materials and household
tools. The short coax lead to your 433 RX module can
be just video grade that’s probably already at hand as
well – however, don’t pinch the family TV antenna cable!
For transmitting work, strict attention to impedance
matching and the like is needed, but for reception (as
here) things can be dead simple. For openers, consider a
convenient telescopic element Yagi made from magnetic
pickup tools, allowing easy tweaking of element lengths
that compact for storage.
Element group spacings (starting from the rear reflector) of 123mm, 110mm and 159mm are not critical, but
match those of our earlier rigid “cotanga” version. Ensure
the driven element pair are NOT touching but that the
centres of the other pairs DO connect – perhaps with
wire or solder to the (chromed) brass tubes.
An even simpler RDF (Radio Direction Finding) style
loop can be suprisingly effective too.
Simply cut and shape some sturdy wire to suit (it
doesn’t have to be an exact circle!) and secure to the
coax via “chocolate block” connector strip. Initially, try a
wavelength (692mm) but snip the wire shorter – perhaps
to eventually 650mm – and retest.
Such loops are best suited for finding a “null” when
pointing at the transmitter, since they’re bi-directional.
Simply step aside some distance for another bearing that
should confirm the true direction by triangulation.
A “body shielding” technique can be useful too – just
hold the antenna close to your chest while you slowly
revolve. The weakest signals should be when your back
is to the transmitter and you are facing away from it. In
built-up areas, many reflections from metallic objects may
confuse this a bit!
90 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Here’s what you’ll need:
8 telescopic magnetic pickup tools (we sourced ours
from a bargain shop for $2.00 each)
1 length PVC builder’s channel (about half a metre – make
sure you don’t use a metal channel!)
1 “chocolate block” terminal block (2-way)
8 solder lugs
Hidden transmitter RDF techniques can be very sophisticated but fun – there’s even talk that they may lead to a
new Olympic orienteering sport!
We suggest that you refer to the references back in the
“433” article for more insights.
At a serious level, they’ve found extensive use homing in
on 121.5/243MHz EPIRB (Emergency Position Indicating
Radio Beacon) emergency channels – such as “man overboard” or even boat sinking, lost bushwalker or emergency
crashed aircraft beacons.
Incidentally, by 2009 the service will become GEOSsatellite based on 406.025MHz, speeding response and
reducing the legendary false alarm rate.
At present, a common RDF chore involves using a
direction finding antenna and receiver to locate which
of the safely parked (and usually locked!) aircraft has
accidently-activated its 121.5MHz when the pilot made a
little-rougher-than-normal landing...
siliconchip.com.au
8 screws to suit the end of the magnetic pickup tools
(if the tools don’t come with them)
Short lengths of hookup or tinned copper wire
Suitable length 75W coax cable (thin is easiest to
handle but is usually lossiest at UHF)
Insulation tape (to secure coax to ducting
Construction
This is a very easy antenna to construct because
the dimensions aren’t critical. And it has a couple of
major advantages over other types: (a) the telescopic
“whips” can be fully closed for transportation; and
(b) the large knobs on the of the antennas make poking
eyes out or other injuries less likely (cut coathanger
wires can be quite dangerous).
The telescopic whips mount right through the edges
of the ducting – drill one side to suit the whip diameter;
the other to suit the screw diameter. Try to mount them
as close as possible while keeping a bit of “meat” around
the holes so they don’t break.
The halves of each director and reflectors need to
connect electrically (that’s the point of the short length
of wire under the solder lugs). However, the driven
element halves must not touch – if necessary insulate
SC
them with tape.
December 2005 91
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