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Salvage It!
BY JULIAN EDGAR
Build a $2 battery charger
Battery chargers needn’t cost a fortune. Here’s
one you can build for a couple of bucks – or
even less if you’re a good scrounger!
R
ECENTLY, WE’VE described a
very sophisticated lead-acid battery charger in SILICON CHIP – in fact,
perhaps one of the most sophisticated
DIY designs in the world. But hey, it
might be good but it also costs a lot
more than a few dollars.
This design? Well, it’s right at the
other end of the scale – the $2 trickle
battery charger! Sure, it takes a bit of
fiddling to initially set up but after that
you’re laughing.
The components
This battery charger comprises just
a plugpack, a resistor and a fuse.
For charging a 12V battery, a plugpack with a nominal rating of around
13-14V and a current capacity of
about one amp (1A) is fine. Low-cost
plugpacks matching these specs can
be found wherever consumer goods
are being thrown away or being sold
cheaply secondhand. Those with the
required ratings were often used to
power printers and older scanners.
Make sure when selecting the plugpack it has a DC (direct current) output.
Some higher-powered plugpacks have
an AC (alternating current) output as
they’re designed for garden lights and
so don’t need to rectify the AC to DC.
The plugpack shown here was sourced
from a shop at the local tip – half a
dozen of them for $5.
The resistor needs to be a high
power design (eg, 5W) with a resistance around 5Ω. Lots of junked goods
use high power resistors so always
keep an eye out for these components
– they’re amongst the few individual
electronic components always worth
collecting.
Chassis-mount fuseholders can
be found in amplifiers and in-line
fuseholders in the supply wiring to
A 1A 13.5V plugpack
makes an ideal
foundation for
a trickle battery
charger. Plugpacks
like this can be
picked up for nearly
nothing at the tip and
where secondhand
electrical goods are
sold.
90 Silicon Chip
A high-power resistor limits the
charging current flow, especially
when the battery is well down in
voltage. Always be on the lookout
for high power resistors – they’re
amongst the few individual electronic
components always worth salvaging.
car radios and amplifiers. The fuses
themselves? Well, they’re in nearly all
goods – and like high power resistors,
fuses are always worth salvaging, sorting and storing.
Building it
Fig.1 shows the trickle charger circuit. It’s really very simple.
An unregulated 13-14V DC plugpack has a no-load output of up to 18V.
Connect that straight to a flat battery
and more current will flow than is
healthy for the plugpack – hence the
need for the resistor. To set up the
system (a once-only event), you’ll need
your multimeter, a fairly flat 12V battery, the plugpack and a resistor with
a rating of around 5Ω 5W.
Cut off the original low-voltage plug
and use the multimeter to work out
the polarity of the output – mark the
positive lead. Then wire the plugpack
to the battery as shown in Fig.2 – don’t
forget to include the resistor! Switch
on and use the multimeter to check
the current flow.
If for example the plugpack is rated
at 1A (the rating will be written on
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&
Fig.1: the charger circuit is simplicity itself. The plugpack charges the
battery through a high-power resistor, with a fuse providing additional
protection.
Fig.2: the required value of the resistor is found by measuring the current
flow when charging a fairly flat battery. The measured current in this
situation should be less than the rating of the plugpack.
P
These binders will protect your
copies of S ILICON CHIP. They
feature heavy-board covers & are
made from a dis
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green vinyl. They hold 12 issues &
will look great on your bookshelf.
H 80mm internal width
it) and in this test condition the flat
battery is drawing more than 1A, increase the value of the resistor. If the
current is a lot less than the maximum
the plugpack is capable of, reduce the
value of the resistor. If you find that
there’s no current flow, even with the
resistor completely removed, you need
a better plugpack.
Once an appropriate amount if current is flowing, leave the system charging for a few minutes and then feel the
temperature of the resistor. Careful: it
may be very hot! If it is too hot to touch,
increase the resistor’s power dissipation. For example, if you are using a
5Ω 5W resistor, you could try two 10Ω
5W resistors in parallel (resulting in a
5Ω 10W combination).
Size the value of the fuse to match
the peak current flow that you’ve
measured – eg, a 1A fuse if you’ve
measured a maximum of 1A. If you
don’t have any fuses of that value, go
smaller rather than larger.
Using it
In practice, the trickle charger works
very well. Feeling the temperature of
the resistor gives an immediate indication of battery voltage – if the resistor
is warm, the battery’s voltage is still
low and so charging can continue. If
it is cold, measure the voltage of the
battery to see how high it is. After a
few charging events it’s easy to get a
good feel (groan) for what’s happening
SC
in the system.
Rat It Before You Chuck It!
Whenever you throw away an old TV (or
VCR or washing machine or dishwasher
or printer) do you always think that surely
there must be some good salvageable
components inside? Well, this column is
for you! (And it’s also for people without
a lot of dough.) Each month we’ll use
bits and pieces sourced from discards,
sometimes in mini-projects and other
times as an ideas smorgasbord.
And you can contribute as well. If you
have a use for specific parts which can
siliconchip.com.au
easily be salvaged from goods commonly
being thrown away, we’d love to hear
from you. Perhaps you use the pressure
switch from a washing machine to control
a pump. Or maybe you salvage the highquality bearings from VCR heads. Or
perhaps you’ve found how the guts of a
cassette player can be easily turned into
a metal detector. (Well, we made the last
one up but you get the idea . . .)
If you have some practical ideas, write
in and tell us!
H SILICON CHIP logo printed in
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& cover
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February 2005 91
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