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SILICON
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JANUARY 2005
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ISSN 1030-2662
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01
At last! A V8 DOORBELL
that sounds like a REAL V8!
Simple
Summer
FUN
Project:
Save
water &
power with
this neat
PRAWNLITE SHOWER TIMER
SILICON
CHIP
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Contents
Vol.18, No.1; January 2005
www.siliconchip.com.au
FEATURES
8 VAF DC-7 Generation 4 Kit Speakers
They’re smaller and more affordable than the DC-X model but still offer
excellent sensitivity and performance – by Philip Vafiadis & Simon Wilde
12 Build Yourself A Windmill Generator, Pt.2
A washing machine motor makes a cheap and effective alternator but first you
need to make a few modifications – by Glenn Littleford
VAF DC-7
Generation 4
Kit Speakers –
Page 8.
40 Review: Tektronix TPS2000 Series LCD Oscilloscopes
They’re battery-powered, fully-isolated and are ideal for power measurements
and analysis, as well as all the usual tasks – by Peter Smith
PROJECTS TO BUILD
24 Build A V8 Doorbell
Is the sound of a V8 engine music to your ears? This project will give a deepthroated V8 rumble when your front doorbell is pressed – by John Clarke
V8 Doorbell –
Page 24.
34 IR Remote Control Checker
Check your remote controls with this simple project. It will quickly tell you if the
remote is dead or if one or more buttons has stopped working – by Jim Rowe
60 4-Minute Shower Timer
The sound of running water starts a 4-minute countdown to an annoying alarm.
It’s easy to build too, as the PC board comes pre-assembled – by Ross Tester
66 Wanna Go Prawning? You’ll Need The Prawnlite
You can pay twenty or thirty bucks for a kilo of prawns. Build our Prawnlite and
you can catch the little beggars yourself – by Branko Justic & Ross Tester
76 Simon Says . . .
Nostalgia – it ain’t what it used to be! Here’s a PIC-based update of a popular
game from the 1970s – by Clive Seagar
SPECIAL COLUMNS
44 Serviceman’s Log
What’s cooking? It’s just the TV set – by the TV Serviceman
82 Vintage Radio
Outback communications: the Flying Doctor radios – by Rodney Champness
92 Circuit Notebook
IR Remote Control
Checker – Page 34.
(1) Lithium-Polymer Peak Charger; (2) Efficient Fan Speed Controller; (3)
Simple White Noise Generator; (4) PICAXE-Based Toy Traffic Lights With
Battery Saver; (5) 12V Halogen Lamp Dimmer
DEPARTMENTS
2
4
57
59
65
Publisher’s Letter
Mailbag
Product Showcase
Silicon Chip Weblink
Order Form
siliconchip.com.au
89
97
100
101
103
Book Review
Ask Silicon Chip
Notes & Errata
Market Centre
Ad Index
Build A
Prawnlite –
Page 66.
January 2005 1
PUBLISHER’S LETTER
www.siliconchip.com.au
Publisher & Editor-in-Chief
Leo Simpson, B.Bus., FAICD
Production Manager
Greg Swain, B.Sc.(Hons.)
Technical Editor
Peter Smith
Technical Staff
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Ross Tester
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Reader Services
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Advertising Enquiries
Phil Benedictus, Laurence Smith
Benedictus Smith Pty Ltd
Phone (02) 9211 9792
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Regular Contributors
Brendan Akhurst
Rodney Champness, VK3UG
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Grad.Dip.Jnl
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2 Silicon Chip
Cheap audio equipment
is no bargain
At least 25 years ago, the American Federal
Trade Commission (FTC) issued rules to the hifi
industry which effectively stopped manufacturers from making outrageous claims about audio
power output. For example, the FTC set a onehour pre-condition test at 40% of the amplifier’s
power rating as one of the criteria to be met. In
other words, if an amplifier was to be rated at 100
watts per channel, it had to be able to withstand
testing at 40 watts per channel for an hour, before
the full power test was performed.
There were screams of protest from the manufacturers at the time, because
it just so happened that the 40% test condition was quite onerous and not
far off the maximum power dissipation in an amplifier. It meant that the
amplifiers needed good power supplies and generous heatsinks to be able to
meet the testing regime. But it was good for consumers. In a very short time,
outrageous power output claims disappeared and amplifier designs became
much more conservative in their engineering which ultimately resulted in
long life and very good performance.
As in so many other aspects of technology, Australia benefited from these
overseas regulations but now, since the vast majority of consumer electronic
equipment comes from Asia, the benefits of those regulations have disappeared. We now have the ludicrous situation where flea-powered home
theatre equipment can come with claims of 5000 watts output, even though
its true output is only a few watts per channel. If you want evidence of this,
visit one of the consumer electronics stores at your local shopping mall – or
have a look at what’s being offered on Ebay.
If you look more closely, you might find that such huge power ratings are
accompanied by the letters “PMPO”, standing for peak music power output. I
am not even going to try to explain or justify these fictitious ratings – they are
just nonsense. In fact, if a piece of audio or home theatre equipment makes
any reference to “PMPO”, it is fair bet that it is junk and if you buy it, it will
end up on the council clean-up in a very short time.
The same comments can made about a lot of after-market car equipment.
Some of the claims about car speakers defy logic. People are buying car
speakers on the basis that a 400W speaker must be better and louder than a
100W speaker and of course the retailers seldom provide any useful guide.
In fact, it is entirely possible that a 400W loudspeaker could be less efficient
than a competing 100W speaker and therefore will not be as loud for a given
power input.
Sadly, it seems as though there is no government consumer advocate who has
the skill or willingness to make regulations or guidelines for most consumer
electronic equipment. In the absence of guidelines or regulations, consumers
are buying a lot of junk and it soon ends up in land-fill.
Unfortunately, even when there are no outrageous power claims, a great
deal of low-cost electronic audio equipment sold these days is junk anyway
and it seldom lasts for more than a year. For example, in many small audio
systems, the CD player packs up after not a lot of use and it is not worth getting it repaired after the warranty has run out.
As an informed reader of SILICON CHIP, you can help less informed people by
advising them to stick to the better known brands of equipment which comes
with a one or two-year warranty and avoid the stuff that is really cheap.
Leo Simpson
siliconchip.com.au
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MAILBAG
42V car electrics
a labour hazard
Your article on 42V car electrics in
the November 2004 issue was most
enlightening (no pun intended).
However, it brings to mind possible
problems with regard to the qualifications of people.
In Queensland, there is a specification for ELV (Extra Low Voltage).
To the best of my knowledge, this is
defined as 32V AC. At or below this
ELV, no licence is required to install
or maintain wiring and equipment.
Above this voltage, an electrician’s
licence is required.
The ELV specification allowed the
installation of 32V electrical systems
in remote homesteads, etc. I wonder
what the licensing authorities will
make of the 42V DC systems in cars.
Will all motor mechanics have to have
qualifications as electricians?
Brian Clancy,
Roma, Qld.
Comment: no doubt the poor misguided Queensland authorities will
seek to put some further hobbles on
industry there.
Unwired coverage
map not real
I read Ross Tester’s November 2004
report on the “Unwired” wireless
broadband modem with considerable interest. A quick check on the
“Unwired” website revealed that I
was in a “pink” area; ie, one with sufficient signal for reliable operation. I
purchased a unit.
Alas, despite diligent efforts, I
could not detect a signal in my computer room, nor any other convenient
locations. Murphy’s Law prevailed,
however, and I obtained a weak, intermittent signal in a most inconvenient
location!
I called the technical hot-line and
it became apparent that my modem
transceiver was capturing a tower in
Lidcombe in Sydney, approximately
15km from my house, bypassing two
nearer towers. No matter what we
did, we could not encourage the unit
to capture the nearest tower (in Ryde)
and secure a more reliable signal.
4 Silicon Chip
On reflection, it became clear to me
that the pink – “so you can purchase”
region is simply a computer-generated
“prediction” of the coverage area. It
probably has some basis in theory
but actual signal strength? Unlikely.
A look back at the relevant website
page reveals quite a few disclaimers!
I love the idea of high-speed Internet
access. I just hope that many of your
other readers do not waste their time
as I have.
Gary Johnston,
Hunters Hill, NSW.
Rural mobile phone
coverage is poor
Re your editorial entitled “Fixed
Phone Lines No Longer A Necessity”
in the November 2004 issue. Widen
your horizons a little. Out here in the
rest of Australia, mobile phone service
is at best patchy and for anything like
internet without landlines, you had
better have really deep pockets and
very long arms.
We actually live on Highway A32
(the only one from Adelaide to Sydney
through Broken Hill) and in this town
mobile phone coverage is essentially
non-existent. How about helping the
rest of Australia with your editorials
instead of painting a silly and very
misleading picture of everything being
just peachy?
Art Clarke,
Manoora, SA.
Comment: The editorial is in no way
an endorsement of mobile phone coverage in the country. For those people
who do have a reasonable mobile
phone service where they live (and
the vast majority do), the editorial is
correct and is backed up by Telstra’s
own recent report that fixed line revenue is falling.
As you state, country coverage is
poor and unwired broadband services
in rural areas may never happen.
Hidden danger in
autotransformer connection
The circuit shown in the November
issue page 86 is very elegant. However,
there is one very important warning
which I was given over 30 years ago
when I tried the same arrangement for
work. If one of the primary leads comes
adrift with the secondary still connected, then the voltage on the loose
wire will be the voltage drop across
the secondary winding multiplied by
the turns ratio. This could be a very
high voltage in the order of a thousand
volts with a 20 to 1 turns ratio.
This is another reason to enclose
the transformer in a secure box. My
design was refused for safety reasons.
Paul Niehoff,
Blackburn, Vic.
PICAXE pin
terminology justified
Following the recent discussions
over port/pin/leg terminology (See
SILICON CHIP, November 2004, page
92) I would like to provide some background to the situation.
The first microcontroller BASIC
language was developed by Parallax
for their Stamp system around 1992.
They used the word pin within input
decisions such as ‘if pin0 = 1 then’.
Unfortunately, this has now become
the universal standard used within at
least a dozen microcontroller BASIC
applications that I am aware of.
We don’t particularly like this terminology but unfortunately it has become
the standard that most users expect.
Note also that the word PORT has a different usage within this original BASIC
language and so cannot be used.
Within the PICAXE system, we have
always provided an alternative to the
BASIC terminology ‘pin0’ in the form
of ‘input0’. Therefore users can type
‘if input0 =1 then’ to achieve the same
task as ‘if pin0 = 1 then’. This is our
preferred terminology that we tend
siliconchip.com.au
Atmel’s AVR, from
JED in Australia
Autotransformer connection
not ideal
Your circuit for an autotransformer as published
on page 86 of the your
November 2004 issue of
SILICON CHIP does not show
the recommended manner
of connecting up an autotransformer.
You have achieved a
voltage reduction by connecting the secondary of
the transformer in such a
way that its voltage opposes the primary voltage. Although it works,
it is not the most effective
way of reducing the mains
voltage.
It is easier to see the
problem if your circuit
is redrawn as in Fig.1, so
that the autotransformer
resembles a tapped coil
such as is often used in
high frequency circuits
(which is effectively what
an autotransformer is).
In this case, once the
“tapping” is made, the remainder of
the “coil” is wound in the reverse
direction (the same way that a non
inductive resistor is wound). The primary of the transformer has to carry the
full mains voltage and the secondary
has to bear the full load current. For
a 21.6Ω load, the transformer would
need to be rated at 240VA.
The more logical (and usual) way
to connect an autotransformer is to
connect the secondary so that its
voltage adds to the primary voltage.
For a voltage reduction, the load is
connected to the “tapping”. This is
shown is Fig 2.
Neither winding carries the full
mains voltage nor bears the full load
current so the voltage and current
in each winding of the transformer
have been reduced by 9.1% and the
transformer now needs to be rated at
200.3VA – a reduction of 16.5% over
your circuit.
If a full 10% voltage reduction was
needed then you would need a 240V
to 26.67V transformer and it would
need to be rated at 216VA.
Greg Schoenmakers,
via email.
to use in our educational datasheets
when possible. It is of interest to note
that most other BASIC languages don’t
even offer an alternative as we do.
Due to the historical confusion over
the term pin (which is beyond our
control), we took the decision to not
to refer to ‘physical external pins’ via
the term ‘pin’ within our educational
projects as we felt it could confuse
the target audience (13-14 year olds).
I feel using the term ‘leg’, although not
necessarily “professional”, does cor-
rectly describe to a 13-year old child
what we are talking about (without any
confusion over the term ‘pin’).
I fully appreciate that electronic engineers may not like the ‘leg’ term but
we believe it is in the best interest of
the target audience of the educational
worksheets. Within SILICON CHIP I
fully understand why you and your
readers would prefer not to use the
term ‘leg’ and so I would recommend
that in the future authors talk about
‘physical pins’ and use the terminol-
siliconchip.com.au
JED has designed a range of
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The AVR570 module (above) is a way of
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January 2005 5
Mailbag: continued
ogy ‘if input0 = 1 then’ in programs.
This avoids any historical ‘pin’ word
confusion which, unfortunately, is
beyond our control.
Clive Seager, Technical Director,
Revolution Education Ltd.
Electric fence revives battery
I have recently revived a discarded
car battery by connecting it to an
electric fence for a month. Maybe this
is old hat. Before the fence treatment
the battery would not retain enough
charge to start a car overnight. After
treatment it retains charge for a week.
A month might seem a long time
to wait for a result but hey, it doesn’t
cost anything.
Frank Murphy,
via email.
Comment: that’s interesting. It is similar in concept to the Battery Desulphator circuit published in the February
2003 issue.
Upload/download discrepancy
causes problems with VoIP
Thank you for publishing that
informative article on VoIP internet
telephony in the September 2004
issue. Telstra should be quaking in
their boots! However, those readers who like me are still waiting for
broadband to become available might
be well advised to check their dial-up
connection speeds in both directions
before rushing in. With many service
providers and Telstra/Bigpond in
particular, there is a large discrepancy
between download and upload connection speeds.
When testing the “Skype-Out”
internet telephone operation on my
system, I could hear the other side
(downloaded) clearly after a short time
delay (0.5 seconds or less) but in the
other direction there was a time delay
of several seconds – up to 10 seconds
in effect and very often it was broken
up or garbled. I tested this by ringing
up my own mobile phone from the
internet phone.
Having an alternative service provider to Bigpond, I tried that as well
and I was having much better results
although there was still a noticeably
different time delay between the trans6 Silicon Chip
mission directions. I think the bottom
line is: use broadband if you want to
use internet telephony and ask your
service provider about the difference
in upload and download connection
speeds before signing up.
Gunter Seidel,
Alice Springs, NT.
Fixed line phones lower in cost
I would like to comment on some
of the points raised in your editorial
and the article on wireless broadband
in the November 2004 issue. The
suggestion that having only a mobile
phone is cheaper than a fixed line
phone certainly isn’t true for me and
my family. I looked at my most recent
phone bill and worked out what it
would have cost if we had made all
our calls (excluding dial-up internet)
by mobile.
The cost came to more than three
times what we paid for making the
calls on our fixed line phone, including line rental, etc. I looked at a few
different mobile plans – not just the
pre-paid plan we have on our mobile
but none came even close to being
comparable to the fixed line cost.
I find it rather objectionable that
someone would choose to have only
a mobile phone and then expect me
to pay the high call cost if I want to
call them from my fixed phone. This
is especially so with businesses. If I’m
looking for a particular product and
have a choice of companies to call,
those that only give a mobile phone
number don’t get my call, especially if
I need to ask lengthy questions about
the product, etc.
I’m not so sure that Telstra should
be so worried by the increase of wireless communication since their wired
network is still needed. After all, if I
use my mobile to call another mobile
on the other side of the city, the “wireless” part of the signal path is quite
short – from my mobile to the nearest
base station and from the nearest base
to the phone I’m calling. The signal is
still mostly carried by the copper and/
or fibre-optic network.
I would imagine that the wireless
broadband internet system would be
the same. An employee of Telstra once
quipped to me, “Optus is our biggest
customer”.
Is there enough spectrum space
available? If we all decided to ditch
our fixed line phones, our ADSL and
cable internet and go wireless, would
there be enough spectrum capacity to
cope or would spectrum pollution rise
to the point where the system became
unreliable?
I belong to an organisation that
uses wireless microphones on the PA
system at our meeting place. A visitor
from the USA said that over there people are abandoning radio mikes and
going back to cords because spectrum
pollution is making wireless mikes too
unreliable.
I realise that the analog FM system
used on radio mikes is different to
the sophisticated spread-spectrum
digital systems of today’s wireless
communication networks but I still
think that the more wireless gadgets
we embrace, the more cluttered and
noisy our spectrum space will become.
Ray Chapman,
via email.
Wanted: a laptop with
a bright screen
On the front cover of the November
2004 issue there is a picture of a man
using a laptop computer in bright
sunlight with an obviously very visible
colour screen. Are you able to tell me
what brand the computer is and the
type of screen please?
I ask the question because I have a
back porch where I would like to go on
nice days and be able to do computing
and soak up some of the supposedly
useful reflected sun’s rays! Two previous laptops did not perform well in
the bright light; they were back-lit
screens.
My present desk-top computer is a
powerful machine, as I use it for graphics, photographs and text. I know there
are laptop computers out there which
are just as powerful as this one but I am
principally interested in what appears
to be an outstanding screen.
Eric Jamieson,
Meningie, SA.
Comment: Oops! We’ve been caught
doing something that photographers
and graphic artists have been doing for
many years – artificially embellishing
video screens.
siliconchip.com.au
It’s done to just about every photograph you ever see, in newspapers
and magazines, of any type of video
monitor, including TV sets.
The reason it is done is that it is very
difficult to adequately photograph a
monitor with its screen on and get a
good result for both the monitor (in
this case a computer) and the screen.
You have to overexpose significantly
to get the screen detail which of course
doesn’t make the rest of the picture
look much good.
Therefore, two exposures are taken,
one of the screen and one of the rest,
with computer software used to marry
the two shots. Or if it’s a computer
monitor, it’s likely to be a “screen capture” that is dropped in, rather than a
second photographic exposure.
In the case of the cover you are talking about, the image on the screen in
direct sunlight was very subdued, as
you would expect. So as far as your
enquiry is concerned, that computer
won’t do what you want. It’s on a par
with most other laptops/notebooks as
far as brightness is concerned.
TVs should have
digital tuners
Keith Walters has quite correctly
described the mess that is digital television (Mailbag, December 2004 issue). But there are other aspects of the
situation which I find quite as bizarre.
How is it that, nearly three years after
the introduction of digital TV, very few
receivers are sold with digital tuners?
Even if you pay thousands of dollars
for a big plasma TV you will still be
expected to accommodate another box
to house the receiver.
As it happens, my personal gripe
is not with the display as I can’t afford a big screen set and I am happy
with my 28-year old 4:3 set. I have a
digital set top box which has proved
to be an excellent investment to avoid
the intermittent electrical interference
which often spoils my reception of the
VHF channels. But I also like to record
broadcasts for time-shifting. Although
I have a DVD recorder and a recentmodel VCR, neither has a digital tuner
and neither can record the output of
the set-top box using its timer.
So either I use the timer to record
broadcast plus interference or I have
to be on hand to press the record butsiliconchip.com.au
ton when using the digital signal. How
stupid is this?
The Federal government has done
its best to cripple digital TV and it
seems to me that it has been aided and
abetted in this task by the equipment
manufacturers.
Sometimes life gives us an unexpected bonus. I bought the set-top
box to avoid interference but I was
delighted to find that I could use it to
fill the screen with a 600-line picture
instead of the 500 (or less) that the
broadcasters expect me to use. Mostly
it doesn’t matter that I lose a bit at the
sides of the picture.
Similarly, I replaced my old VCR
because I was fed with having to reset
the clock every time we had a momentary power cut. The new machine
holds its settings for three years. But
I find it has a couple of other useful
features. I never expected to use the
“extended play” setting but during
the Olympics it was useful to record
up to nine hours on 3-hour tape and
play some of it the next morning with
quite reasonable quality.
And the indexing feature which
locates the beginning of a recording
rapidly and accurately is really useful.
It may be a mature technology but it
still has a lot going for it.
John Neate,
via email.
RFID implants
While reading the Publisher’s Letter
in the December 2004 edition, I was
amazed that anyone could seriously
entertain the idea of implanting RFID
chips into people. Human nature being
what it is would mean that this technology would be exploited by various
groups in society, leading to an era of
inequality and discrimination not seen
in this country before.
If the chips were made mandatory,
either as an implant or built into a
smart version of a driver’s license,
two things would be guaranteed to
happen. First, the government would
ultimately end up placing RFID readers
in every public place to help with “the
war on terror”, raising the question of
why they would want to know where
everybody is all the time.
More of an issue would be the use of
RFID readers by business. There would
be companies that would pay shops to
place the readers in every store and allow them to collect data on what shops
you go to and what and how often you
buy. Before anyone talks about legislation only allowing the government to
access the data, financial institutions
would call for the data to stop credit
card fraud, prove ID, etc and most
probably they would get it.
This data on your spending habits
would be used to push products that
you may be interested in (although
not necessarily needing or wanting).
Imagine going into a car dealer, only
to get an SMS about a “special limited
time only” finance deal. If you think
telemarketers are bad now, then this
may be your worst nightmare.
With an RFID system, you have no
control over who reads your number
and the associated data that marketing
companies may have collected. At the
moment, you can choose whom you
give this data to but with an RFID tag
under your skin you most definitely
can not. Having a form of identification that can be read without your
knowledge or consent would open a
vast array of issues that would make
even George Orwell cringe.
Jay Herbert,
via email.
Comment: like it or not, marketing
companies already have lots of data
about you and your socio-economic
group and they use it however they
wish, without any choice by you.
Halogen lamps and UV
I want to comment on previous
discussion about halogen down-lights
and their high UV content (see page
109, November 2004 issue). I needed
some UV to harden some plastic. I
went to the major hardware retailer
and could only find covered dichroic
lamps in stock.
Single 12V 50W halogen lamps were
labelled as zero UV. I purchased a 240V
150W halogen lamp but when tested,
zero UV was present. Amazed at this,
I eventually found an old uncovered
dichroic lamp mounted in the ceiling
and it proved to have significant UV
output. The manufacturers must have
changed the glass type to eliminate
the UV. The moral of this story is that
things change.
Leigh Brown,
via email.
January 2005 7
The new
VAF DC-7
Generation 4
Kit Speakers
This new speaker from VAF Research looks very similar to their highly
regarded DC-X Generation IV but this model is smaller and much more
affordable. It will fit more easily into smaller rooms but still offers a
high level of accuracy and high sensitivity.
By Philip Vafiardis & Simon Wilde
8 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
The 170mm black composite Kevlar woofers are specially
made to VAF’s specifications.
D
Note the unusual vented voice coil & vented spider
arrangement significantly reducing thermal compression
and secondary resonance issues.
id you admire and drool over the new Generation
4 version of VAF’s legendary DC-X loudspeaker
presented in the August 2004 issue of SILICON CHIP?
Maybe you liked the speakers but their imposing size
and price presented some big hurdles. The new DC-7 G4
described here should be considered as a DC-X on a smaller
scale. Still very accurate, with high sensitivity and low
distortion, the DC-7 G4t is more compact and room friendly.
In essence, the new VAF DC-7 G4t consists of two woofers,
one tweeter and a slim floor -standing cabinet, in a design
along the same general lines as the DC-X series. However,
there is more to it than that.
First of all the woofers and tweeters are far from ordinary.
The 170mm diameter Black Composite Kevlar cone woofers have been specially made to VAF’s specifications. They
feature T-shaped pole pieces and large, high-temperature
voice coils.
The spider and voice coil are also vented using the same
method as in the larger woofers in the DC-X series. This
provides dramatically improved voice coil cooling which
significantly reduces thermally related compression.
An additional benefit is that no air is trapped behind the
voice coil. This motor structure offers exceptional dynamic
linearity, providing a linear excursion of 7mm and a total
excursion of over 12mm.
The composite cone has been moulded using resins that
provide exceptional damping. VAF then fit the cones with
two proprietary pads to further enhance propagation of
sound through the cone.
The cone edge is terminated in a very compliant high
loss soft rubber surround and specially treated with a
proprietary decoupling ring. In addition, these drivers are
magnetically shielded.
Finding a single tweeter sensitive enough for the new
DC-7 G4 but still being of very high quality proved to be a
challenge. All the tweeters that were originally tested were
Cumulative Spectral Decay of the DC-7 G4. Note how fast
and even the initial decay is. The faster the speaker decays,
the more easily a new sound it reproduces can be heard.
The step response is almost ideal. The steep vertical rise
indicates that the woofers and tweeter have good time
alignment.
siliconchip.com.au
January 2005 9
Note the unusual heatsink fitted to the DC-7 G4 tweeter.
The speaker connection terminals are capable of biamping: removing the straps between the pairs allows you
to use separate amplifiers for bass and treble.
either not sensitive enough or not accurate enough.
The specified tweeter has a high temperature-resistant
voice coil, rare-earth magnets, a 25mm treated silk diaphragm, a high-loss surround and Ferro-Fluid cooling for
the voice coil. An integral shallow horn in front of the dome
is carefully shaped to provide a flat overall response and
efficient air-coupling.
The tweeter is deeply recessed in the cabinet baffle to
ensure time alignment. This ensures that signals from the
tweeter and woofers reach the listener’s ears at precisely the
same time. This is shown by the step response measurement
which has an almost perfect vertical lead-in with a smooth
return to reference level. This is a text-book result.
The heavy cabinet also features angled bracing to minimise resonances in the panels and to act as reflectors to
minimise the acoustic reflections inside the enclosure. In
a normal cabinet this reflected energy eventually returns
to the woofers and is radiated into the room. This is can
mask the direct sound being reproduced by the woofers
and can compromise fidelity.
VAF have targeted Stored Energy in other ways too. As
any tweeter radiates its sound forward it also radiates some
of its sound across the baffle. If this sound reaches a cabinet
edge it will be re-radiated and this will muddy the sound.
These effects are combatted by the soft pads around the
tweeter; these are highly efficient acoustic absorbers. They
have two separate layers which have distinct individual
shapes to effectively eliminate cabinet-related diffraction
from the tweeter.
A large quantity of VAF’s Hypersoft III Foam also fills
the cabinet in critical areas, ensuring that internal reflections at higher frequencies are well attenuated. This is
demonstrated by the very fast Cumulative Spectral Decay
response.
VAF believe that if acoustic problems are dealt with
fundamentally and directly at their source, the resulting
The Impulse response settles in under 0.4mS.
Frequency Response of the DC-7 G4. Note how flat and
smooth this response is even around the transition 3KHz to
8kHz crossover area.
10 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
A close up view of the
tweeter area (centre
of photo) showing the
two individual layers
of diffraction control.
Specifications
Frequency response... 43Hz–20kHz (1/3-octave smoothed)
Phase response........... ±15° from 200Hz–20kHz
Harmonic distortion.... 0.3% from 40Hz-20KHz at 93dB
Nominal Impedance..... 8W (4W minimum)
Sensitivity..................... 93dB/1W <at> 1m
Dimensions.................. 1050 x 193 x 300mm (wxhxd)
Weight........................... 36kg pair
Standard finishes
include Book
Matched, Crown Cut
Oak (as shown here)
or Jarrah (as shown
on page 8). Genuine
Black Oak is also
available.
fidelity will be superior to the more normal design approach
of using complex electrical crossovers to cover them up.
This attention to detail enables the use of a far simpler
crossover which even so, uses 1% tolerance resin-bound,
air-cored inductors, close-tolerance polypropylene capacitors and non-inductive close-tolerance resistors.
VAF supply the crossovers fully assembled with the
labelled wiring loom already attached so assembly is very
straightforward.
The set of hardware supplied with the speaker kits goes as
far as a spanner to do up the floor spikes!
siliconchip.com.au
Kit prices & how to buy
VAF make these new speakers in three different forms.
First, kits without cabinets: these include all the parts
required to build a full pair of speakers but without the
cabinets or cabinet materials. CAD drawings are provided
for those who want to make the cabinets themselves. This
is the lowest cost option at $799 per pair.
A full kit including precision made, fully assembled and
finished cabinets can be bought for just $1399 per pair.
Standard finishes include book matched, crown cut oak,
jarrah and genuine black oak.
The DC-7 G4t loudspeakers can also be purchased bought
fully assembled for $1599 pair in the same finishes. $42
fully insured freight applies to each kit option and covers
most locations in Australia.
Kits can only be purchased directly from VAF Research,
Phone 1800 818 882 (free call) or fax 08 8363 9997. They
are not available in shops.
Email orders can be directed to vaf<at>vaf.com.au
VAF make a wide variety of loudspeakers. See the full
range at www.vaf.com.au
SC
January 2005 11
BUILD YOURSELF A
WINDMILL
GENERATOR
Part 2 - the alternator
by Glenn Littleford*
Have you ever wanted to build a decent-sized wind turbine to help
charge those batteries? Are you handy with basic hand tools and
a welder? Well, here’s Part 2 of our Windmill project, based on a
motor from a washing machine, a few odd car parts, some timber for
the blades and a kit “platform” to hold it all together.
12 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Warning: please note
the following!
Inside the Fisher & Paykel Smartdrive washing machine motor – top left is the
magnet hub, top right the stator, centre is the drive shaft, while at the bottom are
the retaining plates and nut. We need all these parts for our windmill.
I
started this windmill project a
couple of years ago as an experiment and it has since developed
into not only a reliable wind generator
but a rewarding hobby.
Please note that what is described
here is not a complete system but an
ideas platform, to allow you to develop
your own windmill.
The results depend on your own
abilities and the final location of
the windmill. But with care in construction, especially the propeller
blades and a position with 20km/h or
higher wind speeds, you can expect
to achieve output powers of 300W
or better.
Construction will be divided into
three sections: alternator, platform,
and blades.
This month we will concentrate on
the alternator. Next month will be for
the platform to support the alternator,
propeller and tail assembly and after
that we will show you how to make
a set of high-performance timber
blades.
But first up a reality check: are you
sure you want to build a windmill of this
scale? You’re going to need at leasT an
acre of land – it’s not a good idea erecting a two-metre diameter windmill on
*www.thebackshed.com
siliconchip.com.au
a six-metre mast in your suburban back
yard, unless you get along VERY well
with your neighbors!
Some people consider windmills
visual pollution and will complain.
And you should get approval from
the local authorities before putting up
the mast. In addition, you will need
good average winds and a location
with a clear view (from the windmill’s
perspective). This windmill won’t
generate any useful power unless the
wind speed is over 20km/h.
Noise
Despite what many think, windmills
are not noisy. You will not normally
hear any noise from a windmill unless
you are almost standing next to it (or
Windmills can be dangerous if
not constructed carefully.
While the windmill described
here was designed to be
strong, we have no control
over the handyman capabilities
of the builder or the effects of
mother nature and therefore
offer no guarantee of safely or
durability.
Also note that the alternator
described here can produce
dangerous voltages, even when
spun at low speed.
Treat all electrical terminals
as dangerous at any time the
alternator is rotating.
We recommend the following:
Obtain local government
approval before erecting your
windmill.
Obtain an engineer’s approval for any windmill you build,
especially the tower and footings.
(Local government approval will
probably require it anyway).
Don’t scrimp on safety
equipment (eg, guy wires) or
on protection from the elements
(especially rust and corrosion
protection).
Don’t place your windmill
where a failure could cause
injury, as towers can fall over
and blades can break free. It is
recommended that the ground
around the windmill be clear of
buildings, kid’s play areas, etc, to
at least the height of the windmill
(including the blades) and that it
be placed at least that distance
from your property boundary.
A badly corroded drive shaft. This might be OK for bench testing but I
wouldn’t stick a big propeller on it!
January 2005 13
Exploded view of the motor from
a F&P service manual. We need
everything with the exception of item
2, a hall effect sensor used to detect
the hub (item 5) position.
unless the bearings are shot!).
In high winds there is a distinctive
“whooshing” noise but it’s not any
louder than the wind blowing through
the trees.
There is, however, always some
vibration produced by the alternator
and this can travel down the mast.
For this reason I recommend you
don’t mount your windmill on the
roof of your house – the drone could
be unbearable.
Sourcing the motor
The heart of the windmill is the
Fisher & Paykel Smartdrive motor,
as used in Fisher & Paykel washing
machines manufactured since the late
The F&P
Smartdrive stator
before modification.
1990s. The Smartdrive is basically a
huge stepper motor, wired in a 3-phase
star configuration and consists of a
fixed stator and a hub containing magnets that rotates around the stator. The
stator consists of 42 poles constructed
of steel laminations embedded in
plastic. Stator diameter is 250mm.
The hub has 36 magnets embedded in
plastic, with hidden steel laminations
to complete the magnet circuit.
For our windmill we use the stator, hub, and also the stainless steel
drive shaft, bearings and stator
retainer plates from the washing
machine. In this article the Fisher
& Paykel motor will be referred to
as the “Alternator”
Use a screwdriver to lift up the interconnecting leads to
make cutting easier.
14 Silicon Chip
As the Smartdrive has been around
for several years now, they are starting to show up in recycling yards and
dumps and can often be picked up for
a few dollars.
If you can get hold of a complete
washing machine, all the better, as
there is a collection of springs and
bits that could come in handy for future projects. Removing the motor is
a relatively simple task, requiring no
special tools.
And the motor controller has some
fancy electronics, including a pressure
sensor and power mosfets which could
come in handy. Electrical repair shops
are another source for Fisher & Paykel
parts: find your local repair agent
Lay down the first bus lead and solder the first coil lead from
each group.
siliconchip.com.au
First cut and strip 6 lengths of 20A insulated wire as shown.
These will form our new bus bars.
The original stator had 3 sections, each with 14 poles.
The modified stator will be divided into 7 sections, each
with 6 poles.
The windings are cut as shown above and reconnected to the
six bus bars as shown below. Use different colour wires for the
buses to make life easier!
and offer them universal currency (a carton of beer) in
exchange for a couple of used Smartdrive motors from
their scrap bin. You might get lucky!
Or you can buy the motor parts new from Fisher &
Paykel agents at a reasonable cost.
What to avoid
There are a couple of things to look out for when
sourcing your motor parts.
Shorted Windings: Water ingress into the windings
causes copper corrosion and shorting between the
coils, or to the steel laminations, making the stator
worthless.
Corroded Shaft: The shaft needs to support the weight
and thrust of the propeller, so make sure there is no serious corrosion or pitting. Another concern is cracking in
the plastic hub or stator. If not too severe, a few small
cracks can be fixed with epoxy adhesive.
Once all bus wires are connected, you can use cable ties to
secure it all together.
siliconchip.com.au
Fit a terminal strip to the finished stator. This makes it
easier to change from star to delta configuration.
January 2005 15
01-A
DELTA CONFIGURATION
02-A
03-A
01-B
02-B
03-B
01-A
STAR CONFIGURATION
02-A
03-A
01-B
02-B
03-B
The difference between delta and star configurations. How you connect them
is up to you – basically, you get more current but lower voltage with a delta
configuration and more voltage but less current with a star configuration.
Some windmills are arranged to switch from one to the other on demand.
Warning: do not place the stator in
the hub! The hub has a plastic spline
and retaining nut designed to slowly
feed the hub over the stator while it is
still attached to the washing machine
(or windmill!). There is a strong magnetic attraction between the two and
its easy to get your fingers jammed.
And if you do end up with a stator
and hub stuck together, it’s quite difficult to separate them.
Rewiring the stator
In factory form, the stator is wound
as a 3-phase star winding, each leg
consisting of 14 poles wired in series
to give 42 poles total.
There are currently three basic types
of Fisher & Paykel stators available.
The early models were wound with
1mm wire and are not recommended
16 Silicon Chip
for this project.
Next, Fisher & Paykel released a
0.8mm wire version and the latest
model is wound with 0.6mm wire.
These are the most common and
both versions are ideal for our wind
generator.
When spun by hand the alternator
can produce over 100VAC. Even at this
low speed the voltage is too high for
charging a battery bank, not to mention dangerous. We need to make a
few changes to get this voltage down
to a useful level and, at the same time,
increase output current.
This is done by cutting the interconnecting wires between the stator
poles and reconnecting them into a
new configuration. By doing this the
alternator can be wired for charging
12V, 24V or 48V battery banks.
We will look at a configuration for
charging 12V batteries, this being the
most common. Once again, remember
this series of articles is designed to
let you experiment with windmill
generators, so the following is a suggestion only.
For our 12V setup we need to rewire
the stator into seven pole groups, each
with six poles. Each group generates
3-phase power and by connecting the
groups in parallel, we can increase the
output current seven times.
We also have the option of connecting the 3-phase groups as either a star
or delta configuration. Put simply, star
produces more voltage, less current
and delta produces less voltage and
more current. It is possible to automatically switch from star to delta as the
windmill speeds up but we will leave
this for another day.
Starting from the factory-fitted spade
connectors, cut the stator windings
as shown. You might find it helpful
to use a small screwdriver to lift the
interconnecting wires for easier access.
You should end up with 42 wire ends,
each about 20mm long.
Strip 5mm of the enamel coating
from each wire with a sharp knife,
sandpaper, or you can do what I do
and use a small blow torch to carefully burn off the enamel and then
sandpaper to finish.
Next you need six lengths of wire,
about 700mm long. Use wire capable
of 20A (a length of 7-core trailer wire is
perfect). Use different coloured wires
if possible as it will make identification of the phases a lot easier. Each
wire needs to be stripped in seven
places at 70mm intervals – these will
be our bus wires.
Now lay down the first bus wire and
solder the first lead of each pole group.
Repeat the process for the remaining
5 wires.
After you have soldered all the
groups to the bus wires, use some cable
ties to secure the bus wires together.
Finally, add a terminal block to the
end of the bus wires.
Once the stator has been re-configured, you need to protect it from the
weather with a couple of coats of paint.
The plastic used in the F&P motors is
subject to UV damage.
That’s not much of a problem when
hidden under a washing machine but
it’s a real concern on a windmill. So
paint the stator and hub with a UV
resistant exterior paint. Make sure the
siliconchip.com.au
+
“DC”
OUTPUT
3-PHASE
AC
INPUT
–
6 AUTO
K
DIODES
(EG FROM
CAR
ALTERNATOR) A
Above: two 35A bridge rectifiers, mounted on suitable heatsinks, can be
connected to rectify the 3-phase output of the alternator. Note that two of
the diodes in the second bridge are unused but this is a cheap way to go!
Delta vs Star configurations
There are two possible ways to connect the six output leads. From the
factory, the F&P motor is configured
as a star winding, so I would leave it
in this configuration and use it as a
starting point.
Once you have completed and tested
your windmill, you can try changing
the connection to a delta to see how
it affects performance.
Rectifying the output
Now that we have our 3-phase AC
alternator, we need to convert this to
DC for charging batteries.
If you have a old car alternator
sitting in the junk pile, then pull it
K
A
A
3-PHASE
AC
INPUT
2 BRIDGE
RECTIFIERS
poles ends are properly sealed against
water ingress, as the laminations can
easily rust.
K
+
“DC”
OUTPUT
K
K
K
A
A
A
apart and use the diode pack as your
rectifier. These diode packs are built
very tough (they need to be to survive
in an engine bay) and can handle 50A
or more.
Another option is to use two
heavy duty bridge rectifiers (such
as a 3504), or you could just buy six
single automotive diodes and wire
them together.
Either way, the rectifier needs to
be able to handle 30A or more. And
remember, all diodes will need a
heatsink.
Next month we will look at the construction of the windmill platform and
tail. The platform is supplied as laser
cut steel components and requires
some welding.
Once assembled, it provides a strong
mounting frame between the alternator, propeller and mast and includes
–
Left: use this
configuration
if you have a
rectifier assembly
from an old
car alternator
or wish to use
individual highpower rectifier
diodes. The
diodes need a
rating of at least
35-40A or more.
a self-furling tail to safely turn the
windmill out of the wind during strong
gusts or storms.
SC
NEXT MONTH:
The windmill platform
Another commercial wind turbine alternative: Airmarine Australia
In amongst scads of really neat alternative energy gear
on their website (www.airaus.com) Aimarine Australia
have a number of wind turbine alternators ranging from
the 300W Ampair Pacific, through the 1.6kW Bergey XL.1
(pictured right) and right up to 3, 5, 10 and 20kW Westwind
Wind Turbines.
The Bergey model shown has a rotor diameter of 2.5m
and is intended for the off-grid home market. Rated power
is 1kW, or 1.6kW peak, with an output of 24V DC.
The XL.1 combines a number of advanced technical
features, including a completely new airfoil, to provide the
highest efficiency yet achieved in a small wind turbine.
The XL.1 is an up-wind, horizontal-axis, three-bladed
turbine. The blades are pultruded fibreglass, a material that
is over ten times stronger than the injection-molded plastic
used on most small wind turbines. In fact, pultrusions have
a breaking strength exceeding 100,000 psi, which is twice
as strong as normal steel.
The blades attach directly to a specially-designed verylow-speed permanent magnet alternator which uses stateof-the-art neodymium super-magnets.
Low wind speed per-formance is greatly enhanced by
a low-end-boost circuit that optimally loads the wind tursiliconchip.com.au
bine down to wind
speeds as low as
2.5m/s. Combined
with the new blade
system, this circuitry
allows the XL.1 to
produce useful power
more than 6000 hours
a year at a typical
site. For reference, a
typical solar system
produces power 3500
hours a year at a typical site.
The XL.1 is priced
at around $3500 (various options are available) and is offered with an easy-toinstall tubular tilt-up tower kit in heights from 9m to 32m,
offering a complete “ready to install” kit. Price of a 10m
tower, engineer-certified to withstand howling gales, is
about $1800
Contact Airmarine Australia on (03) 9459 2888, website
www.airaus.com, or email grd<at>hotkey.net.au
January 2005 17
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
dicksmith.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
dicksmith.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
dicksmith.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
dicksmith.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
dicksmith.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
dicksmith.com.au
By JOHN CLARKE
V8
Is the sound of a V8 music to your ears? Does
the roar and deep rumble of a V8 engine
raise your pulse rate? With the SILICON CHIP
V8 doorbell you can impress your friends
and neighbours. You can have the sound of
a V8 without even starting your car. In fact,
you don’t even need a car.
H
AVE YOU SEEN the Repco V8
Doorbell advertised on TV? Does
the sound of a powerful V8 instead
of a boring 2-tone doorbell appeal to
you? Then forget the Repco doorbell
– it sounds puny. The SILICON CHIP V8
doorbell really does sound like a V8
and it is loud as well, with an inbuilt
5-watt amplifier.
Not only does it sound like a proper
V8, it also lights up an 8-LED “V” display, each time you press the doorbell
pushbutton. In fact, you can have a
V8-LED display at your front door and
another on the doorbell case.
The V8 Doorbell is housed in a plastic case and is powered by a plugpack.
24 Silicon Chip
For normal use, the internal 100mm
loudspeaker can be used and this
provides a good simulation of the V8
sound, particularly if the loudspeaker
is tuned using a length of PVC pipe –
more on this later. For more volume,
you can use a larger loudspeaker or
if you want to go the whole hog, connect a bigger power amplifier and
loudspeaker.
If the V8 Doorbell does not sound
quite how you like it, you can easily tailor the circuit to make small
changes to the way the V8 sounds.
Altering the software can make even
greater changes. That way, you may
be able to reproduce the Cleveland
engine, Holden Monaro, Corvette or
something else.
We even allow for simulation of V6
engines. Well, grudgingly, and there
are some restrictions on the settings
that can be used. But enough of pony
engines; let’s get back to V8s.
That “luvverly” V8 burble
V8s have a characteristic sound that
makes them stand out from smaller
engines. Each marque has its own
“sound” that distinguishes it from the
others and much effort is made by the
manufacturers to ensure that their V8
has the most appealing “signature”.
The characteristic V8 sound is
mainly determined by the way the
exhaust system is configured. In a
typical V8, each cylinder of the engine
is connected to an exhaust outlet pipe
with four pipes merging into one, on
each side of the engine.
Some V8s have completely separate
left and right exhaust systems (twin
exhausts). The lengths of pipe between
the engine and muffler affect the way
the sound is mixed from the two sides
of the engine. In a single exhaust system, one exhaust pipe must be longer
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: the block diagram of the V8 Doorbell. Most of the action takes place inside the microcontroller but there’s also
some fancy filtering and mixing to get the V8 “burble” sound we want.
than the other, to reach to the one side
of the car body. In a twin exhaust, the
mixing happens in the air and at our
ears.
Block diagram
We have simulated the sound of a V8
with the above principles in mind. The
block diagram of Fig.1 shows how it
is done. When the doorbell is pressed,
the microcontroller begins to produce
signals from eight ports to simulate
the firing of the eight cylinders. They
produce tones in a sequence similar to
the firing in a real engine. Typically,
there can be an overlap between when
one cylinder fires and the next so in
effect there can be two sources of signal
at any one time.
In this design, you can select several
overlap options and the degree of overlap between the cylinders will affect
the sound of the simulated engine. The
overlaps that can be selected are a 60°
overlap, a 30° overlap, zero overlap or a
30° gap between cylinder firing.
Cylinder outputs 1-4 produce their
tones with different phasing to that of
cylinder outputs 5-8. This is to simulate mixing of the left and right side
siliconchip.com.au
exhausts of the engine. You can alter
the phase from its initial 180° setting
to any other value in steps of about 20°.
Cylinder outputs are mixed together in IC2b and then fed through
a low-pass filter. This filter acts like
a muffler in that it attenuates high
frequency noise but allows through
some low frequency noise. The accelerate filter control (Q1) and the
snarl filter control (Q2) alter the way
the filter works. These make changes
to the filter characteristics to allow
more high frequency signals to pass
during acceleration and at high RPM
simulation.
The microcontroller’s RA2 port
functions as a gated noise source,
generating random noise only during
part of each cylinder’s firing cycle.
This simulates valve, tappet, drive
train and air inlet sounds. This is fed
to bandpass filter IC3a and then mixed
with the cylinder signal by IC3b.
Q3 provides for an increase in volume level at higher RPM, under control of a pulse width modulated (PWM)
signal from port RB3 of the micro. After
filtering, the PWM signal becomes a
DC voltage to drive Q3. This DC voltage also controls a voltage controlled
oscillator (VCO) which alters its frequency depending on the input voltage. The VCO’s output is fed to port
RA4 of IC1 and it therefore determines
the effective engine RPM.
The final signal is fed to the volume
control pot and amplifier IC5a. This is
Where To Buy The Parts
Jaycar Electronics has sponsored the development of this project and they
own the design copyright. A full kit of parts will be available from Jaycar – Cat.
KC-5405. This kit includes a screen-printed and solder-masked PC board;
all on-board parts; and a case with pre-punched front and rear panels and
screened lettering. Alternatively, you can purchase a short-form kit with just the
PC board and all on-board parts (does not include loudspeaker or pushbutton
switch) – Cat. KC-5405. The 12V DC plugpack is available separately.
January 2005 25
26 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.2 (left): the complete circuit
of the V8 Doorbell. A PIC16F628
microcontroller (IC1) produces the
simulated V8 engine signals. These
signals are then processed and fed to
audio amplifier stage IC6.
muted so that there is no signal until
the doorbell is pressed. Power amplifier IC6 drives the loudspeaker.
Circuit details
Fig.2 shows the complete circuit.
IC1 is a PIC16F628 microcontroller
that produces the simulated V8 engine
signals. IC1 operates at 20MHz, as set
by crystal X1.
The doorbell input at RA5 is normally low (0V) when the switch is
open since the 1kΩ resistor pulls it
to ground. When the switch is closed,
the input is pulled to +5V. A 100nF
capacitor across the resistor removes
noise picked up by the doorbell wiring
while the 2.2kΩ resistor acts to restrict
current to the RA5 input if there is a
transient voltage spike. The closed
switch is detected by IC1 and so it
begins to produce the engine sound
sequence.
The port outputs at RB0 to RB2, RA3
and RB4-RB7 are applied via 2.2kΩ
resistors to op amp IC2b, connected
as a mixer with its gain set by trimpot
VR1. These ports also drive LEDs
1-8 via 560Ω resistors to give the V8
display. Op amp IC2a is the low-pass
filter stage. In its normal state, this
filter acts to sharply roll off the signal
above 600Hz when Mosfets Q1 and Q2
are both switched on.
When Q1 is switched off, its associated 220nF capacitor is effectively
switched out of circuit and this reduces the filter’s effectiveness at
rolling off signal level above 185Hz.
Similarly, when Q2 is switched off,
the 100nF capacitor is out of circuit and the filter action is further
reduced.
The 1MΩ resistors tying the capacitors to ground are included to
maintain the DC voltage across these
capacitors so that there is no DC shift
in signal when they are switched in
or out. Q1 and Q2 are controlled by
the RA1 and RA0 outputs of IC1 respectively. The 10kΩ resistor and 1µF
capacitor on the gate of each Mosfet
slow down the switch-on and switchoff rates of the Mosfets to eliminate
switching noise.
In practice, both Mosfets are switchsiliconchip.com.au
Parts List – V8 Doorbell
1 main PC board, code 05101051,
171 x 105mm
1 display PC board, code
05101052, 56 x 48mm
1 plastic utility box, 197 x 113 x
63mm
1 12VDC 1A plugpack
1 4Ω 100mm loudspeaker
1 130mm length of 100mm diameter PVC tubing1 doorbell
switch (S1)
1 20MHz crystal (X1)
1 8-way right-angle pin header
1 8-way pin header
2 8-way pin header sockets
1 2-way PC-mount screw terminal
block
1 2.5mm DC socket
1 panel-mount RCA socket
1 knob to suit potentiometer
1 80mm length of 8-way rainbow
cable
1 150mm length of 3-way rainbow
cable
1 80mm length of hookup wire
1 80mm length of single core
shielded cable
1 80mm length of figure-8 light
duty wire
1 suitable length of figure-8 doorbell wire
1 150mm length of 0.8mm tinned
copper wire
4 12mm M3 tapped spacers
13 M3 x 10mm screws
5 M3 nuts
9 PC stakes
Semiconductors
1 PIC16F628 microcontroller programmed with engine3.hex (IC1)
3 LM358 dual op amps (IC2, IC3,
IC5)
1 7555 CMOS timer (IC4)
ed on during idle to provide the full
effect of the filter. When the “engine”
speed is increased, Q1 is switched
off to produce the noise of acceleration and as RPM rises further, Q2 is
switched off for the “snarl” effect at
high RPM. The low-pass filter output
at pin 1 of IC2a is fed to op amp IC3b,
another mixer, via a 2.2kΩ resistor.
Gated noise
Gated noise from the RA2 output
of IC1 is attenuated via a voltage
1 TDA1905 5W amplifier (IC6)
3 2N7000 Mosfets (Q1-Q3)
1 BC547 NPN transistor (Q4)
1 7805 5V regulator (REG1)
1 1N4004 1A diode (D1)
1 1N4148 switching diode (D2)
8 5mm red high intensity LEDs
(LED1-LED8)
Capacitors
2 1000µF 16V PC electrolytic
1 470µF 16V PC electrolytic
3 100µF 16V PC electrolytic
1 47µF 16V PC electrolytic
10 10µF 16V PC electrolytic
2 2.2µF 16V PC electrolytic
3 1µF 16V PC electrolytic
3 220nF MKT polyester
5 100nF MKT polyester
2 10nF MKT polyester
1 5.6nF MKT polyester
2 2.2nF MKT polyester
1 1nF MKT polyester
1 100pF ceramic
3 22pF ceramic
Resistors (0.25W 1%)
4 1MΩ
2 4.7kΩ
5 100kΩ
13 2.2kΩ
2 47kΩ
1 1.2kΩ
1 33kΩ
5 1kΩ
1 22kΩ
8 560Ω
11 10kΩ
1 100Ω
1 8.2kΩ
1 1Ω
Potentiometers
1 1kΩ multi-turn side adjust screw
trimpot (code 102) (VR1)
1 500kΩ horizontal trimpot (code
504) (VR2)
1 10kΩ log 16mm potentiometer
(VR3)
1 10kΩ horizontal trimpot (code
103) (VR4)
divider comprising a 1MΩ resistor
and a 10kΩ resistor in series with
a 10µF capacitor. The 10nF capacitors and 1.2kΩ resistor form a half-T
filter that allows a relatively narrow
band of frequencies centred on about
6.6kHz to pass through. The 100kΩ
resistor between pin 2 and pin 1
broadens the bandwidth of the filter
to allow a wider range of frequencies
to pass than if the resistor was not
present. The output of IC3a is fed to
mixer IC3b via a 1MΩ resistor.
January 2005 27
Table 1: Capacitor Codes
Value
220nF
100nF
10nF
5.6nF
2.2nF
1nF
100pF
22pF
μF Code
0.22µF
0.1µF
.01µF
.0056µF
.0022µF
.001µF
NA
NA
IEC Code
220n
100n
10n
5n6
2n2
1n0
100p
22p
EIA Code
224
104
103
563
222
102
100
22
The output from IC3b is passed
through a 2.2kΩ resistor and 10µF DC
blocking capacitor. Mosfet Q3 shunts
this signal to ground when conducting
but has no effect on the signal throughput when it is switched off.
Q3 is controlled via the filtered
PWM signal from pin 9 of IC1. The
1kΩ resistor and 10µF capacitor filter
this 19kHz signal and the filtered DC
voltage is applied via trimpot VR2 to
the gate of Q3.
Op amp IC5a is a non-inverting
amplifier with a gain of 11. It amplifies the signal taken from the wiper
of VR3 so that the level is suitable
for the following power amplifier.
IC5a is biased at +5V so that when
there is no signal, its pin 1 output
sits at 5V. This allows a large voltage
swing before the output clips. High
frequency roll-off for the amplifier
is set at around 16kHz to prevent
high-frequency instability. Its output
is coupled to power amplifier IC6
via a 4.7kΩ resistor and 10µF DC
blocking capacitor.
Transistor Q4 provides muting of the
output signal and it is controlled by
comparator IC5b and the filtered PWM
signal from pin 9 of IC1. IC5b operates
in the following way. When the circuit
is quiescent (ie, not producing any V8
sounds), the filtered PWM signal is at
5V. This is monitored at pin 5 of IC5b
and is compared with the voltage set
by trimpot VR4, fed to pin 6. VR4 is
set so that pin 6 is at about 4.7V and
so pin 7 of IC5b will be high at around
11V. This high signal drives the base of
Q4 which therefore shunts any noise
signals to ground.
When the doorbell is pressed, the
microcontroller begins to produce
the V8 sounds and the PWM signal
immediately drops to 4.5V and so pin
7 of IC5b goes low and Q4 is switched
off. The signal at IC5a’s output now
passes to the line output socket and
to IC6, the power amplifier.
vides high-frequency filtering.
IC4 is a CMOS 555 timer set up as
a voltage controlled oscillator (VCO).
Its output is fed to port RA4 (pin 3) of
the microcontroller to determine the
audible engine RPM.
Pin 5 (threshold control) is used to
set the output frequency. When pin
3 of IC4 is low, diode D2 discharges
the 220nF capacitor at pins 2 and 6
relatively quickly via the series connected 2.2kΩ resistor. When pin 3 goes
high, the 220nF capacitor only charges
via the 33kΩ resistor since D2 is now
reversed-biased.
The resulting pulse waveform at pin
3 has a relatively short low period and
a longer high-level period; ie, a high
duty cycle. We then vary the voltage at
pin 5 to control the output frequency.
When pin 5 is up around 5V, the frequency is low and if pin 5 is low the
frequency is higher.
Power for the circuit is provided by
a 12V DC plugpack. Diode D1 prevents
damage if the supply is connected the
wrong way around while the 470µF
capacitor provides extra filtering. The
12V supply feeds IC5 and IC6 while
REG1, an LM7805 5V regulator, supplies the rest of the circuit.
Power amplifier
IC6 is a TDA1905 power amplifier
rated to produce 5W into 4Ω with a 14V
supply. It includes thermal shutdown if
it overheats and a very low noise output.
For the intermittent use it gets in this
circuit, it is ideal. Gain of the amplifier
is set at 11 by the 100Ω and 1kΩ resistors
connected between pin 1 and ground,
with the feedback signal AC-coupled to
pin 6 via a 2.2µF capacitor.
The 100µF capacitor at pin 7 provides supply ripple rejection while
the 47µF capacitor between pin 1 and
pin 3 provides classic bootstrapping
between the amplifier’s output and
driver stages. A 1000µF capacitor
across the 12V supply provides a
reserve for transient power output
while a 100nF bypass capacitor pro-
Construction
The V8 Doorbell is built onto two PC
boards: a main board coded 05101051
(171 x 105mm) and a LED display board
coded 05101052 (56 x 48mm). The two
PC boards and the 100mm loudspeaker
are housed inside a plastic utility box
measuring 197 x 113 x 63mm.
Before installing any of the parts,
check the two PC boards for any shorts
between the copper tracks or for any
Table 2: Resistor Colour Codes
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
No.
4
5
2
1
1
11
1
2
13
1
5
8
1
1
28 Silicon Chip
Value
1MΩ
100kΩ
47kΩ
33kΩ
22kΩ
10kΩ
8.2kΩ
4.7kΩ
2.2kΩ
1.2kΩ
1kΩ
560Ω
100Ω
1Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black green brown
brown black yellow brown
yellow violet orange brown
orange orange orange brown
red red orange brown
brown black orange brown
grey red red brown
yellow violet red brown
red red red brown
brown red red brown
brown black red brown
green blue brown brown
brown black brown brown
brown black gold gold
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black yellow brown
brown black black orange brown
yellow violet black red brown
orange orange black red brown
red red black red brown
brown black black red brown
grey red black brown brown
yellow violet black brown brown
red red black brown brown
brown red black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
green blue black black brown
brown black black black brown
brown black black silver brown
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.3 install the parts on the two PC boards as shown here. Make
sure that you install each part in its correct location and take care
to ensure that all polarised parts go in the right way around. Note
that there are two 8-way pin headers on the main board. This lets
you drive two separate display boards if required.
breaks in the connections. Also check
the hole sizes. You will need 3mm
holes for the mounting positions in
the four corners of the display PC
board and for the regulator screw on
the main PC board.
That done, begin the assembly by
installing the links and resistors on
the main PC board – see Fig.3. Use
the resistor colour table as a guide to
selecting each resistor, then check each
siliconchip.com.au
value using a digital multimeter.
Once the resistors are in, the diodes
can be installed, taking care with their
orientation. Follow these with ICs
2-6, make sure that each IC goes in the
correct position and is mounted the
right way around.
An IC socket should be used for IC1.
Install it now, then solder in the three
Mosfets (Q1-Q3) and transistor Q4.
The trimpots and capacitors can go
in next. When installing the capacitors, note that the polarised types must
be installed with the correct polarity.
Note also that three electrolytic capacitors have to be placed on their side, so
that there is room for the loudspeaker
later on (see layout diagram photos).
Regulator REG1 is mounted with
its metal tab flat against the PC board.
This involves first bending its leads at
right-angles so that they pass through
January 2005 29
Fig.4: you can change the sound
produced by your V8 Doorbell by
making the connections shown
here and then applying power –
see text for further details.
their matching holes in the board. That
done, the regulator tab is secured to
the board using an M3 screw and nut
and the leads soldered.
The following parts can now all be
installed: the 2-way terminal block, the
DC socket, the eight PC stakes (at the
external wiring points shown) and the
2 x 8-way pin headers (the right-angle
header is installed on the display PC
board).
You will need to connect the two
header socket shells using 8-way rainbow cable. This is done by stripping
the wire ends and crimping them to
the pins supplied. These pins are then
slid into the header shells.
have to drill the holes yourself. This
involves drilling eight holes in a “V”
pattern for the eight LEDs, plus four
mounting holes each for the display
board and the loudspeaker. In addition, you will also have to drill holes
in the lid in front of the loudspeaker
cone area, to allow sound to escape.
Another hole is required in the front
panel for the volume control pot. And
finally, two holes are required in one
end of the base for the RCA output
socket and the DC power plug, plus
another hole in the opposite end for
the doorbell switch wire entry.
The four 12mm tapped Nylon
spacers can now be fastened to the
lid at the display board mounting
points. These are secured using four
M3 x 6mm screws. That done, slip the
eight LEDs into their mounting holes
on the PC board (make sure you get
them the right way around), then secure the board to its spacers. It’s then
simply a matter of pushing the LEDs
through their respective holes in the
front panel and soldering their leads.
Finally, the loudspeaker and pot can
be secured to the lid and the wiring
completed as shown in Fig.3. Don’t
forget to run the wire lead from the
PC stake near the 8-way header on
the main board to the PC stake on the
display board.
Test & adjustment
Now for the smoke test. First, apply
power to the circuit and check for 5V
between pins 4 and 8 of both IC2 &
IC3, between pins 1 & 4 of IC4 and
between pins 5 & 14 of IC1. That
done, check for about 12V
between pins 4 & 8 of IC5
and pins 2 & 9 of IC6.
If these voltages are correct, switch
off and install IC1. However, if there
are no voltages, check the polarity
of the DC plug on the plugpack. The
centre pin should be positive.
OK, now let’s see if it actually works.
To do this, connect the doorbell switch
to the terminal block (using figure-8
wire) and adjust the various trimpots
as follows:
(1). set VR1 fully anticlockwise;
(2). set VR2 & VR3 fully clockwise;
(3). set VR4 so that its wiper voltage is
at +4.7V with respect to ground.
Now press the doorbell and slowly
adjust multi-turn trimpot VR1 clockwise. The engine sound should start to
increase in volume. The final setting
for VR1 depends on personal preference – set it too far clockwise and
the sound will become very harsh. A
lower setting will produce a cleaner
engine sound.
Trimpot VR2 is set so that you obtain
the required idle volume, compared to
the “rev up” volume. It’s just a matter
of slowly adjusting this pot until the
idle volume is suitably lower than the
“revved-up” volume.
If required (ie, if you want more
“ooomph”), a 100mm PVC pipe
joiner (or 120mm length of pipe) can
be secured to the lid in front of the
loudspeaker using silicone sealant.
This tuned pipe makes the sound more
resonant and penetrating. If you like,
you can try different lengths of pipe
The unit gives a good
V8 sound on its own
but it’s even better
with the tuned pipe
installed.
Display board assembly
The display PC board can now be
assembled. For the time being, it’s just
a matter of installing the resistors, the
right-angle header plug and a PC stake.
Don’t install the LEDs just yet – that
step comes later.
If you buy a complete kit, then the
case will be supplied pre-drilled, with
screen printed lettering. If not, you will
30 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Here’s how it all goes together inside the plastic case. You can use light-duty
hook-up wire to make the connections to the volume pot and the loudspeaker.
to vary the effect.
Note that you may need to file some
slots in the pipe so that it clears the
loudspeaker mounting screws.
Individual preferences
There are seven setting changes that
can be made to IC1’s software to produce different sounds. This involves
connecting a wire and a series 1kΩ
resistor between the +5V terminal (for
the doorbell switch) and one of seven
terminals on the 8-way header pin, as
shown in Fig.4.
When a connection is made to one
of these pins during power up, the
required software change is made
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automatically. Note, however, that it’s
important that the +5V supply rail is
fully discharged to 0V before powering
up if the change is to take effect.
In fact, it’s a good idea to measure
the voltage between the +5V terminal
of REG1 and ground after the power is
switched off, to ensure the power has
been completely removed.
Note also that the resistor only has to
be connected at power up. It can then
be disconnected when you are satisfied
with the new sound. The options available are summarised below:
Terminal 1: you can adjust the V8
sound to simulate different lengths
of exhaust pipe between the lefthand
January 2005 31
the rev range. However, it takes many
applications of power to make large
changes to the frequency.
The frequency can be reset to its
default value using Terminal 2.
Terminal 7: this selects whether the
doorbell includes an idling period
before the two revving sequences.
Other changes
The PC board is secured by clipping it into the integral slots in the side of the
case. Power comes from a 12V DC 1A plugpack.
and righthand sides of the engine.
This is the phasing adjustment. Phasing can be altered in steps of about
20°, from its original default of 180°.
Terminal 2: the 180° default setting
of the phase and the exhaust note frequency can be reset using this input
(see Terminals 5 & 6 below).
Terminal 3: this terminal alters the
amount of overlap for the sound generated by each cylinder firing. It can be
altered in sequence from 60° to 30° to
0° and finally to a 30° gap.
Terminal 4: the 6 or 8-cylinder selection is made using this input. This
alternatively selects either setting,
with the LED display showing which
cylinders are firing.
Note that only the 0° and 30° gap settings should used in 6-cylinder mode.
Do not use the 60° and 30° overlap
settings, as this will simulate a 6-cylinder engine with an erratic seventh
cylinder. The correct setting will be
seen on the “V” display when only six
LEDs light. If seven LEDs light, change
the overlap setting using Terminal 3.
Terminals 5 & 6: these inputs allow
the exhaust frequency to be altered
slightly. Terminal 5 increases the frequency, while Terminal 6 lowers it.
If the frequency is increased too far
from the original value, the sound will
have a “raspy” quality at the top of
Brand New From
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The idle RPM can be set by changing
the 33kΩ resistor at pin 3 of IC4 – a
larger resistance will lower the RPM or
you can use a 50kΩ trimpot to adjust
this to your liking.
The ambient noise can be increased
in frequency by decreasing the 1.2kΩ
resistor in the “twin-T” filter of IC3a
and vice versa. In addition, the 10kΩ
resistor at pin 3 of IC3a sets the degree
of mixing with the cylinder firing
sound. A lower value will reduce the
ambience and vice versa, or you can
use a 22kΩ trimpot to adjust this.
You can also make major changes
to the doorbell sound characteristics
by altering the software. To do this,
you will need to be able to modify the
software, reassemble the code and reprogram IC1. Some PIC programming
experience will be necessary.
A much fuller sound is available if
you use a large loudspeaker housed
in a suitable box. For more volume,
you may want to use a more powerful
amplifier and this can be connected
using the RCA line output socket.
If you do this, you can either disconnect the internal loudspeaker or
you can leave it connected so that it
SC
operates as an extension.
160 PAGES
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From the publishers of
Completely NEW projects – the result of two years research & development
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Available from selected newsagents
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32 Silicon Chip
Intelligent
turbo timer
I SBN 095852294 - 4
9 780958 522946
$19.80 (inc GST) NZ $22.00 (inc GST)
TURBO BOOST
& nitrous fuel controllers
How engine
management works
siliconchip.com.au
POWERFUL DC MOTORS / GENERATORS:
200W & 100W motors as used in our scooters.
4 brush, 4 magnet, 16 pole. 11 tooth
sprocket to suit a chain pitch around
7mm. Double ball bearing for long
life. Mounting bracket with 4 treaded
holes 6mm X 1mm (M6) 100mm Dia.
x 80mm L (+ shaft) Shaft: 27mm x
8mm (8mm x 1.25mm. (M8) 2kg.
200W 24VDC, 11.0A, 2750 RPM, $30 (SC200)
300W 24VDC, 16.4A, 2650 RPM, $36 (SC300)
(NEW) 100W DC MOTOR:
$22 (SC100)
See throttles on our website
SPEED CONTROLLERS
TO SUIT FROM $14
USED LIBERTY brand UPS units
TITY
UAN D JAN
Q
I
D
ITE
EM
LIM ILABL
A
AV
(UPS01)Model No. GXT700MT-230 VA/
Watts (max.) 700VA -490W
Input Voltage 230 VAC; variable based upon output load
RS232 interface for auto shutdown etc.
Input plug IEC320-10A
Output Voltage 230 VAC, +/-3%; sinewave
Output plugs 4 X IEC320-10A
Battery Time (FL/HL) 6 min./18 min.
Dim.: mm WxDxH 162 x 397 x 225 Weight: kg 13.6
These units are sold with guaranteed functional batteries,
new batteries for just $15ea with the sale of each of these
units, (this offer is good for 2 years after purchase).$150
PB12 (NEW) 12V / 12AH
GELL CELL BATTERY: $
TWO NEW TV ANTENNA / AMPLIFIER KITS
TV ANTENNA & MASTHEAD AMP KIT.
This small antenna measuring 1460mm X
330mm contains a pre-built mast-head
amplifier module with separate adjustments
for UHF & VHF & is powered via the
antenna's co-ax. It gives amazing results and
seems to work where others can't. Quick to
assemble (PCB assembly is already done for
you), easy connections. Kit includes Antenna
kit with built in amp module, DC/signal
combiner (built into the TV connector),
connectors. No cable supplied, see below.
(K219 ) $19... Suitable power adaptor only $4
extra if purchased with the kit.
TV MASTHEAD AMP MODULE KIT.
Connect to an existing antenna or raid your
wardrobe for a coat hanger. This kit will give
great results from just a coat hanger cut in
half to make a dipole, it covers UHF, VHF and
FM bands. Specification: Channel 1-68, Gain
26-23dB, Noise 1,75dB!!!, Input 300 Ohm
(with balun), Output 75 Ohm, DC 10-15V. No circuit board
assembly required . Easy to connect. Includes amp
module and DC/signal combiner (built into the TV
NEW STEREO FM TRANSMITTER KIT
COMING SOON
This small kit is ideal for use as a radio microphone and connector). No cable supplied, see below. (MHAM)
30mW+ GREEN
uses a small pre-buit crystal locked stereo FM transmitter $9...Suitable power adaptor only $4 extra if purchased
module that connects to a PCB with a stereo pre-amplifier with the kit.
LASER HEADS.
onboard. This kit has pushbutton selectable tuning, uses
Requires a constant
2-6VDC or 7-15VDC supply. Kit contains FM module, 2
current source only,
More info on these and more items on our website.
microphones, pcb and all onboard components.
typical 500mA<at>1.8V
These fantastic
bikes can be ridden
NEW Extralite
under electric
LOW INTRODUCTORY PRICE $350!!!
brand downlights
p o w e r, p e d d l e
Also available. complete laser light show kit in original packing.
power or both at
using the above laser heads.
Box includes one 12V
once and can be
50W enclosed halogen
folded in half to
PRICE BREAKTHROUGH
transport or store.
dichroic lamp, one
NEW COLOUR CAMERAS with AUDIO & IR LEDs.
Featuers include
electronic transformer
This CMOS camera is fully
inflateable tyers.
housed in a small neat dieand one gimble mount
front and rear wheel brakes, parcel rack and basket,
cast housing.
lamp holder. (DL50W)
lights and more. Motor power: 200W Max speed: 30km/h
Just a couple of quick
$14
Max load capacity: 100kg Charging period: 6 - 8 hours
connections and your on
Distance: 40km Battery capacity: 12V/12Ah x 2 Weigh:
your way. Camera body
ECHO CHIP
27kg (SC4) $
36(W) X 27(H) X 14(D)
Digital echo chip (SM7183) just $6
+15mm extra for the lens.
Size: 1130 x 390
Data available on our website.
Includes swivel mount.
x 1000mm Brake:
(CAM9) $39
hand brake, rear
THE ITEMS LISTED BELOW ARE JUST A
wheel drum brake.
FEW OF THE MANY IN OUR $2 SHOP
Battery capacity:
100W SCOOTER REAR DRIVE PARTS ASSEMBLY
SEE OUR WEBSITE FORMORE DETAILS
12AH, 24V.
These are the drive components
(NEW) TRACK BALLS:
Battery charger:
from our 100W scooter incBased on an Alps TB6026F IC and two opto-couplers, 240V Motor power:
luding the motor, toothcontrolled by a Xtal oscillator module. (Pack of 3) $5 200W. Charging
ed belt, pullies, rear
period: 4-5 hours.
2D0051 INFRARED RECEIVER MODULES:
wheel, brake
Part # SB1038A, Universal IR Receiver modules, 5V Speed: 20km/h.
assembly.
Range: 15km.
operation, (Pack of 3) $5
Ideal for
Wheels: inflatable.
robotics
2D0052 ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITORS:
Frame: painted
projects
1000uF/35V electro's, body has a diameter of 15mm
steel. Weight: 21kg.
lelectric
and a height of 20mm: (Pack of 3) $1.50
Maximum load: 100kg. Forget waiting for trains and
skate
2D0054 LIGHT DEPENDENT RESISTORS:
busses that don't come, the regulations on the NSW RTA
boards and 5mm diameter LDR's, around 100ohms in bright light
website indicate that they can be ridden under the same
other electric and over 10Mohms in the dark, 3.6mm lead spacing:
rules as a bicycle. Come complete with batteries, lights
vehicles etc
(Pack of 5) $3
and charger. $300 (SC3)
(SCD2) $32
2D0038 MECHANICAL COUNTER:
HEADLAMP KIT:
Made in the USA by WEEDER-ROOT, non resetable
SC1 (NEW) 100W
Great kit for caving, fishing or
the count is set to a high value so several hundred
anything that needs a bit of
counts would reset the count to 00000: (Pack of 2) $2 E L E C T R I C S C O O T E R :
This portable light weight
light. Uses energy efficient
L
2D0057 OPERATIONAL AMPLIFIERS:
scooter folds up for easy
CIA
super bright LEDs. Features
E
OP-27GZ Precision low noise Operational Amplifier
P
carrying and storage. Ideal S
W
include adjustable elastic
IC-s: (Pack of 4) $3
NE CE
Christmas gift for the kids.
straps, pushbutton on/off,
I
R
2D0058
GOODSKY
RELAYS:
Features
variable
speed
P 94
adjustable tilt angle and more.
$
Goodsky
MI-SS-212D,
DPDT
12V
relays,
5A/250VAC,
control
and
hand
lever
style
The straps can be removed to use
has many different approvals: (Pack of 2) $3
brake. Material: aluminium &
the kit as a torch. Comes with all the parts supplied inc.
2D0063 (NEW) RELAY:
steel painted with lacquer.
the 2x AA batteries required. Partially assembled, some
Nais brand, Part # ST1-DC48V. High capacity & high Brake and throttle can be
soldering is required to complete the kit. $12.50
sensitivity in sub-miniature size. 8A / 250VAC, 5A /
swapped from side to side. Telescopic handlebars to suit
PICAXE-08M MICROCONTROLLER CHIP
30V DC. 32 x 14 x 11mm high. (Pack of 4) $3
most riders. It comes complete with mains charger and
NOW IN STOCK
2D0060 (NEW) NI-MH HIGH CAPACITY BATTERY: 4 batteries. Unlike a lot of others these have Australian
This is the new version with in-built tunes
cell pack 1.2V <at> 800mAh. Each cell 10mm x 50mm electrical approvals including C-TICK. Speed: 12km/h
and 10 bit A-D converter. $4.70
(same length as AA and same dia. as AAA batteries). Motor: 100W Battery: 2x 12V, 4.5A Range: 10-15km G.W:
Check our web site for more PICAXE chips. Pack size: 12.5mm x 64mm x 48mm. (Pack of 4) $5 10kg N.W: 8kg Size: 740 x 130 (deck) x 930mm.
(NEW) 240Vac - 12V /
24V CHARGERS:
12VDC:
(SCC12) $17
24VDC:
(SCC24) $17
NEW E-BIKES
JU
$1 ST
4
0
5
$3
0
0
$3
2
3
$
ELECTRIC BIKES/SCOOTERS
www.oatleyelectronics.com Suppliers
of kits and surplus electronics to hobbyists, experimenters, industry & professionals.
Orders: Ph ( 02 ) 9584 3563, Fax 9584 3561, sales<at>oatleyelectronics.com, POJanuary
Box 89 Oatley
NSW 2223
2005 33
major credit cards accepted, Post & Pack typically $7 Prices subject to change without notice ACN 068 740 081 ABN18068 740 081
OR www.oatleye.com
siliconchip.com.au
SC_JAN_05
By JIM ROWE
IR
Remote Checker
Do your remote controls often fail? Is it
due to dead batteries, poor contacts under
the switch buttons or a more serious fault?
How would you know if it was working
anyway? Here is the answer – a Remote
Control Checker. It lets you very easily
check whether an infrared (IR) remote
control is sending out a code when each
of its buttons is pressed, so you can avoid
opening the thing up for cleaning or
repair if it “ain’t really broke”.
34 Silicon Chip
N
OWADAYS, JUST ABOUT every
item of home entertainment gear
has its own remote control, so you can
control its operation without ever having to get up from your easy chair – if
you don’t want to, that is. Most homes
have plenty of remotes but in most
cases their reliability isn’t wonderful.
Probably that’s because they have to
take quite a lot of physical pounding:
easily dropped, squashed, kicked,
trodden on, splashed with drink and
otherwise abused.
When a remote fails completely,
it’s usually just a matter of replacing
the battery and away it goes again for
another year or two. But what about
when replacing the battery doesn’t fix
it or one or two of the buttons seem to
have stopped working? Then it can get
a bit tricky and you want to be sure the
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: the complete circuit for the IR Remote Checker. Infrared pulses from the remote are picked up by sensor receiver
IRR1 and fed to gate IC1a. IC1a then drives gates IC1b & IC1c which in turn activate the piezo transducer and LED1.
fault is in the remote rather than in the
equipment it’s supposed to control.
Unfortunately most of the remotes
made in the last few years don’t seem
to be made for easy access to the
insides, without damaging the case.
They’re clipped together using a series
of tiny lugs, moulded into the inside
edges of the case top and bottom. The
lugs can be hard to find from the outside and even harder to unclip without
breaking one or more of them. So you
don’t want to open up a remote unless
it’s absolutely necessary.
The little IR Remote Checker described here is designed to help in
such cases, letting you quickly find out
whether or not any suspect buttons are
sending out codes from the remote’s IR
LED. This will let you decide whether
the fault is in the remote or in the
equipment itself.
You simply point the remote’s invisible output beam at the Checker’s
sensor window and then press the
various buttons. If the sensor picks
up any codes, it gives you immediate
confirmation by flashing a visible LED
and sounding a small piezo beeper.
The Checker can be operated from an
internal 9V battery or an external DC
siliconchip.com.au
plugpack power supply. As a bonus, it
also provides an electrical copy of the
control code pulses received from the
remote, so you can feed them to a scope
or logic analyser for further analysis.
This would also make the Checker
a handy tool for anyone developing
custom remote controls.
The Checker uses only a handful of
low-cost parts, all mounted on a small
PC board which fits into a UB-3 size
jiffy box. You should be able to assemble it in a couple of hours, especially
if you build it from a kit.
How it works
Fig.1 shows the circuit diagram of
the IR Remote Checker. The infrared
pulse trains from the remote are picked
up by sensor/receiver IRR1, which
strips them from their supersonic
carrier signal (usually about 38kHz)
and provides them as negative-going
electrical pulses from its output pin 1.
We feed these pulses to pin 1 of gate
IC1a, used here as an inverting buffer.
The output of IC1a then drives one
input each of two further gates, IC1c
and IC1b.
IC1c is also used as an inverter, to
drive transistor Q1. Q1 is then used to
switch current to LED1, so it flashes
for the duration of each code pulse.
IC1b is used as an oscillator which
is gated on by the pulses from IC1a.
The oscillator’s frequency is dependent on the 22nF capacitor and the
total feedback resistance, so trimpot
VR1 allows it to be adjusted over a
reasonable range.
The output from the oscillator is
used to drive transistor Q2, which in
turn drives the piezo transducer with a
5V peak-to-peak waveform. The 4.7kΩ
resistor across the transducer is used
to provide a DC load for the transistor,
and also to discharge the piezo transducer’s capacitance between pulses.
The idea of having trimpot VR1 is so
that you can adjust the oscillator’s
frequency to match the transducer’s
resonant frequency, for maximum
“beep” output.
IC1’s fourth gate (IC1d) is used as
another inverting buffer, driven directly from the output of IRR1. The
output of this inverter is then fed to
output socket CON1 via a series 4.7kΩ
resistor, to provide the IR Remote
Checker’s output pulses so they can
be measured by an oscilloscope.
All of the IR Remote Checker’s
January 2005 35
Fig.2: install the parts on the PC board as shown here, taking care to ensure that all polarised go in the right way
around. Note the mounting details for IRR1 and the 470µF electrolytic capacitor.
circuitry operates from 5V DC and
draws very little current even when
responding to IR pulses. The 5V supply is provided by regulator REG1, a
low-power 78L05 device.
The raw input for REG1 is controlled
by power switch S1 and comes from
the internal 9V battery or from an
external 9V DC plugpack. Diode D1
ensures that the circuitry can’t be
damaged if the plugpack polarity is
reversed.
Construction
Apart from the 9V battery, all of the
components used in the Checker are
mounted on a small PC board measuring 112 x 57mm and coded 04101051.
The component overlay diagram is
shown in Fig.2.
The board is designed to fit inside
a standard UB-3 size utility box (130
x 67 x 34mm) and mounts on the rear
of the box lid using four 15mm x M3
tapped spacers with eight M3 x 6mm
long screws (4 x countersink head).
The 9V battery is held in the bottom
of the box using a length of gaffer tape.
Both external connectors are accessed
by holes in the end of the box, when
it’s assembled.
You should be able to see the location and orientation of all the components on the PC board from the internal
photos and the overlay diagram of
Fig.2. Note that the piezo transducer
is attached to the top of the board near
the centre, using M2 machine screws
and nuts.
Begin the board assembly by fitting
This view of the fully-assembled PC board shows just how easy the unit
is to build. The sockets mount directly on the board, so the only external
wiring is to the 9V battery.
36 Silicon Chip
the two connectors to the end. Then
fit the four PC terminal pins, two of
which go on the far end of the board
for the battery lead connections. The
other two go near the centre, for the
piezo transducer leads.
Next, fit toggle switch S1, which
mounts with its connection lugs
passing down through the matching
slots in the board as far as they’ll go,
before soldering underneath. After
this, fit trimpot VR1, near the battery
terminal pins.
The resistors come next; all fit horizontally. Diode D1 fits in the same way
just behind CON2, with its banded
cathode end towards switch S1.
Now fit the capacitors. These all
mount in the usual vertical fashion
except for the largest 470µF electro,
which is fitted lying on its side, with
its leads bent down at 90° about 2mm
from the body. Make sure you bend
them the right way, so the positive
lead ends up closer to switch S1
as shown. Watch the polarity of
the other electrolytics too, as
they are all polarised.
Regulator REG1 and the two
transistors are fitted next, with
all three having their leads cranked
outwards to mate with the board holes.
That done, fit the IR sensor device.
As shown in the photos and diagrams, this mounts with all three leads
bent carefully downwards by 90°,
about 2.5mm from the body. The very
ends of the leads are then passed down
through the matching board holes and
soldered, so the sensor ends up facing
directly upwards and with the top of
siliconchip.com.au
Parts List
1 PC board, code 04101051,
112 x 57mm
1 plastic utility box, 130 x 67 x
34mm (UB-3)
1 mini toggle switch, SPDT (S1)
1 PC-mount RCA socket (CON1)
1 PC-mount 2.5mm DC socket
(CON2)
1 9V battery, 216 type
1 9V battery snap lead
1 piezo transducer, 30mm dia. x
5mm high
4 PC board terminal pins, 1mm
diameter
4 M3 x 15mm tapped spacers
4 M3 x 6mm machine screws,
csk head
4 M3 x 6mm machine screws,
round head
2 M2 x 10mm machine screws,
round head
2 M2 nuts with star lockwashers
1 10kΩ mini horizontal trimpot
(VR1)
Semiconductors
1 IR receiver, RPM1738 or
IS1U60 (IRR1)
1 4093B quad Schmitt NAND
gate (IC1)
1 78L05 low power +5V regulator (REG1)
2 PN200 PNP transistors (Q1,
Q2)
1 3mm red LED (LED1)
1 1N4004 power diode (D1)
The PC board is secured to the lid of the case using 15mm tapped spacers and
M3 screws. Note that a prototype board is shown here (the wire link is not
necessary on the final version).
its hemispherical lens 15.5mm above
the board.
Next fit the IC, making sure that it’s
mounted the correct way around as
shown in Fig.2. Because it’s a CMOS
device, make sure you use an earthed
soldering iron and earth yourself
when you solder its pins to their
pads, to avoid damage due to static
discharge.
Mounting the piezo device
Now cut the two leads of the piezo
transducer to about 50mm long, assuming you’ve already mounted the
transducer itself to the board in the
right position using the M2 screws and
nuts. Then bare about 4mm of wire on
the end of both leads, and carefully
solder them to the two PC terminal
pins just to the left of the 470µF electrolytic cap. Note that the red positive
lead should connect to the pin nearest
to the 4.7kΩ resistor.
The LED can also be fitted at this
stage but not with both leads soldered.
Solder only one lead to its pad with a
bare minimum of solder, so it will be
held in place temporarily until final
positioning when the board is attached
to the box lid.
The last step at this stage is to solder
the battery snap leads to the terminal
pins on the end of the board, making
sure that the red positive lead solders
to the upper pin near IRR1.
Capacitors
1 470µF 16V PC electrolytic
1 100µF 10V PC electrolytic
1 47µF 10V PC electrolytic
1 100nF (0.1µF) multilayer
monolithic (code 100n or 104)
1 22nF (.022µF) MKT polyester
(code 22n or 223)
Resistors (0.25W 1%)
2 10kΩ
1 220Ω
3 4.7kΩ
1 47Ω
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
o
o
o
o
o
siliconchip.com.au
No.
2
3
1
1
Value
10kΩ
4.7kΩ
220Ω
47Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black orange brown
yellow violet red brown
red red brown brown
yellow violet black brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black red brown
yellow violet black brown brown
red red black black brown
yellow violet black gold brown
January 2005 37
Fig.3: this full-size artwork can be photocopied onto an adhesive label
and covered with clear “Contact” film for a professional finish.
end of the box as well, for the access
holes for CON1 and CON2. Remove
any burrs which are left on the inside
and outside of all holes in the box and
lid, to make a tidy job.
Once the lid has been prepared,
attach the four board mounting
spacers to the rear of it using the four
countersunk-head M3 screws. Tighten
these up quite firmly, so the top of each
screw head is flush with the top surface
of the lid itself. This will then allow
you to stick on a front panel, made
by photocopying the artwork (Fig.3)
we’ve provided onto an adhesivebacked label.
With the front panel attached, you
can cover it with a piece of clear “Contact” or similar adhesive film for protection. It’s then just a matter of neatly
cutting out holes in this double-layer
panel escutcheon using a sharp hobby
knife, to match the holes already cut
in the lid underneath.
Mounting the PC board
Fig.4: check your PC board against this full-size etching pattern before
installing any of the parts.
Now prepare the box lid, by cutting
the various holes in it, as shown in the
drilling diagram of Fig.5. Note that the
four outermost 3mm holes should be
countersunk to allow for the heads of
the board mounting spacer screws.
While you’re preparing the box lid
you can also cut the two holes in the
The PC board assembly is mounted
on four 15mm-long tapped M3 spacers
behind the front panel, with the
threaded ferrule of switch S1 passing through a matching 6.5mm hole.
Check that IRR1’s lens just touches
the rear of the front panel and that it
is in line with its 6.5mm “viewing”
hole. Once everything is in position,
fasten the board to the spacers using
four round-head M3 screws.
Now you can unsolder the temporary joint holding the LED in place on
the board. This will allow you to slide
it forward until its body just passes
through the 3.5mm hole in the box
lid/front panel immediately above.
Fig.5: this diagram shows the drilling details for the case lid and for the end panel of the base.
38 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
That done, you can solder both leads to their board
pads permanently. Trim off any excess leads which
may be left.
Checkout time
Your IR Remote Checker should now be complete,
apart from fitting it into the box and screwing it all
together using the lid attachment screws. Before you
do this, connect a 9V battery to the snap lead (or
plug the output of a 9V DC plugpack into CON2, if
you prefer).
That done, turn on switch S1, and you should notice a very brief flash of light from LED1 before it goes
dark again.
Now bring an IR remote control (one that you
know is working!) within a couple of metres of the IR
Remote Checker, pointing it roughly at the IR sensor
“window”. Then try pressing any of the buttons on the
remote and you should be rewarded with a series of
flashes from LED1 and simultaneous beeps from the
piezo transducer.
The pattern of flashes and beeps may change with
the various buttons or they may all seem very similar
– it depends on the coding used by the remote control
concerned. But you should get a series of flashes and
beeps when each button is pressed, if the remote is
working correctly.
So if this is what you get, all that’s left to do is the
final assembly of the IR Remote Checker. Fit the 9V
battery into the bottom of the box using a length of
gaffer tape to hold it down, then manoeuvre the lid/
PC board assembly into position by sliding the RCA
connector (CON1) into its matching 11mm hole before
swinging the assembly down into position.
Fit the four small self-tapping screws supplied with
the box to hold it all together and finally fit the soft
plastic bungs into each screw recess. Your IR Remote
Checker will then be complete and ready for use.
Finally, you might want to adjust trimpot VR1 using a small screwdriver, with its shank passing down
through the “Beep Freq Adjust” hole in the front panel.
As explained previously, this sets the Checker’s oscillator frequency to match the resonant frequency of
the piezo transducer, to give the loudest and clearest
beeps. This adjustment can be done at any time and
is basically a matter of taste.
Troubleshooting
Of course, if you are NOT rewarded with any flashes
and beeps when you send IR codes to the Checker from
a known good remote, you must have a fault in the
Checker itself. In this case, you’ll have to unscrew the
PC board assembly from the box lid and start searching for the fault.
You may have fitted one of the polarised components
(diode D1, electrolytic caps, transistors Q1 or Q2, LED1,
REG1, IRR1 or IC1) the wrong way around, or accidentally left a component lead unsoldered. Or perhaps
you’ve left a solder bridge shorting between two pads
or tracks on the board, when you were soldering one
of the component leads.
It’s really just a matter of searching for whatever your
SC
fault happens to be and then fixing it.
siliconchip.com.au
Silicon Chip
Binders $12.95
REAL
VALUE A
T
PLUS P&
P
H S ILICON C HIP logo
printed in gold-coloured
lettering on spine & cover
H Buy five and get them
postage free!
Available only in Australia. Buy five & get
them postage free!
Just fill in the handy order form in this issue; or fax
(02) 9979 6503; or ring (02) 9979 5644 & quote your
credit card number.
Silicon Chip Publications, PO Box 139, Collaroy 2097
January 2005 39
Tektronix
TPS2000 Series
Digital Storage
Oscilloscopes
. . . the first four-channel-isolated, batterypowered oscilloscopes that are equally at
home in the lab or in the field.
T
ektronix continues to expand its
range of “¼-VGA” liquid crystal
display DSOs with three new models
targeting the industrial power sector.
The TPS2012 and TPS2014 models
have a bandwidth of 100MHz (1GS/s),
whereas the TPS2024 doubles that at
200MHz (2GS/s). Four fully-isolated
measurement channels are provided
on the latter two models, whereas
the lower-cost TPS2012 has only two
channels.
Other common specifications include a vertical resolution of eight
bits, a maximum sensitivity of 2mV/
div and a record length of 2.5K points.
As reported in our earlier reviews
We used the Tektronix A621 Current
Probe for our power measurements.
This little beauty can handle up to
1000A.
40 Silicon Chip
(July 2001 and July 2002) of Tektronix
DSOs, the company has succeeded in
packaging their fully featured scopes
into an amazing “shoebox” form factor, measuring just 336W x 161H x
130D and weighing in at only 3.2kg.
This time around, they’ve even found
space for two battery packs but more
on that later.
These scopes are exceptionally easy
to use. Most-used functions such as
horizontal and vertical scaling and
trace position are instantly accessible
using traditional analog-style knobs.
Less-used functions are accessed with
pushbuttons and simple on-screen
menus.
In fact, most users won’t need a
manual to drive any of Tek’s DSOs.
Nevertheless, context-sensitive, onscreen help is available at any time
simply by pressing the “help” button.
peak and cycle RMS are all built in,
improving the usefulness of the instrument and easing the strain on the
grey matter.
A Fast Fourier Transform (FFT)
maths function is also provided as
standard on all three models. Hanning,
Flat Top and Rectangular window
types are supported, spanning 2048
sample points.
Yet another useful feature in these
instruments is their ability to capture
glitches and edge anomalies that
would not normally be detected with
traditional sampling techniques. Tektronix call this digital real-time (DRT)
sampling technology and it’s available
on all four channels simultaneously.
Familiar features
Full isolation
Not surprisingly, all of the features
that made the earlier models a pleasure
to use are included on these models
as well. For example, pressing the
“Autoset” button performs an instant
setup, automatically dialling in the
horizontal, vertical and trigger settings
for each channel.
Eleven commonly used waveform
measurements, including period, frequency, rise and fall times, peak-to-
Each measurement channel is
isolated from all others as well as
the chassis and mains power supply.
The buzz word is “IsolatedChannel”
technology and it provides a perfect
solution for both grounded and floating high-voltage measurements in
three-phase power and other circuits
with different ground references.
Up to 30V RMS floating can be
measured when using the standard
siliconchip.com.au
Tektronix TPS2000 The New Isolated
Channel Battery
Operated Scope.
P2220 passive probes. When equipped with the P5120
passive high-voltage probe (optional), the TPS2000 Series
measures up to 1000V RMS (CAT II) from the probe tip to
earth ground and floating voltages up to 600V RMS (CAT
II, 300V RMS CAT III) on all channels simultaneously.
Safe solution
The channel isolation offered in these models is unique
in a combined bench-top and portable instrument. Readers familiar with the challenges of measuring circuits that
Do you face these Power
Measurement Challenges?
• Make multi-channel floating
measurements
• Measure current and voltage
distortion and their spectral content
• Measure harmonics, instantaneous
power, power factor, switching loss
to characterise power electronics
circuitry
• Measure 3-phase currents & voltages
• Validate compliance to regulatory
standards
• Work in an environment without
AC Power
• Document and Save your
measurement results
For more information about
the TPS2000 family...
Talk to NewTek Instruments:
Ph: 02 9888 0100
email: info<at>newtekinstruments.com
NewTek Instruments Pty Ltd - Sydney - Melbourne
www.newtekinstruments.com
Fig.1: up to the 50th harmonic, along with THD,
individual harmonic levels display, individual harmonic
phase to fundamental and RMS values are all calculated
for you by the Harmonics function.
siliconchip.com.au
January 2005 41
Fig.2: the optional power measurement and analysis
software allows you to make accurate power
measurements at the touch of a button, eliminating
the need for manual calculations. In this example, the
Waveform Analysis function displays basic but useful
information at a glance.
are not referenced to mains earth will
immediately recognise the benefits.
A method sometimes used when
measuring such circuits with a benchtop scope is to disconnect mains earth
from the instrument, so “floating” it
above ground. This method has two
serious side effects. First, it means that
the entire chassis of the scope is at the
same potential as the equipment under
test. Even if the equipment is deemed
Fig.3: the Power Analysis function takes voltage and
current measurements from two channels and displays
true and reactive power, power factor and phase angle.
Here, the top two traces show voltage and current in the
circuit under test, whereas the bottom trace is generated
by the function itself and represents instantaneous power.
low voltage and therefore “safe”, a primary to secondary breakdown could
expose the user to life-threatening
voltages.
Second, mains-powered scopes exhibit high parasitic inductance and capacitance when floated, which distorts
signal measurements. By contrast,
each channel in the TPS2000 series
is specified at just 37pF capacitance
to chassis.
As well as providing a safe means of
measurement, individual channel isolation allows you to measure multiple
signals simultaneously with different
ground references, all without ground
loop interference!
Perhaps best of all, this scheme
enables the use of low-cost passive
probes, rather than the expensive differential variety.
Battery powered
Being small and lightweight, these
scopes are meant to travel. A lithium-
Tek’s TPS2PBND power bundle includes their power measurement and analysis
software option. Physically, this consists of a small electronic key and a printed
user’s guide. The key is simply inserted into a slot in the front of the scope to
enable the software option. Also included in the bundle are four P5120 passive
high-voltage probes (only one probe shown here). The CompactFlash card
shown is not part of the bundle and can obviously be obtained for a variety of
sources.
42 Silicon Chip
Two battery compartments are
accessible at one end and accept one
or two lithium-ion battery packs for
up to eight hours running time.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.4: turn-off, turn-on and conduction times are easily
measured in power switching circuits using the Switching
Loss function. Here, channel 1 is being used to measure
drain voltage in a MOSFET switching circuit and channel
2 drain current. Other pages allow you to adjust dv/dt and
di/dt cursors for maximum measurement flexibility.
ion battery pack provides about four
hours of continuous use. A second battery compartment (see photo) allows
the use of two batteries for double the
run time and also means that when one
pack runs flat, it can be swapped out
without switching the machine off (ie,
“hot-swapped”).
PC connectivity
Getting your measurements onto a
PC for analysis and documentation is
straightforward. An up-front slot accepts standard CompactFlash cards
for storing setups, measurement data
and graphics images of the screen.
Most popular PC graphics file formats
are supported.
In addition, a 9-way socket is provided on the rear for connection to a
Fig.5: by using the Phase Angle function in the power
measurement and analysis software, the relationship
between multiple phases can be easily determined. Note
that these waveforms were not captured from a 3-phase
power generation grid but rather from a demonstration
board.
PC serial port. In conjunction with
the supplied OpenChoice software,
data can be saved to disk or acquired
directly in Excel for viewing and
processing.
A Centronics type parallel port is
also provided for those that wish to
print screens directly. Once again,
many popular printer formats are
supported.
Complete solution
For additional cost, Tektronix offer
power measurement and analysis software that significantly expands the capabilities of the TPS2000 scopes. This
upgrade allows you to make power
measurements at the touch of a button
in the appropriate units, eliminating
the need for manual calculations.
Measurements include true power,
reactive power, phase angle, crest
factor, harmonics and switching loss
(including turn-on, turn-off and conduction losses), among others.
To seal the deal for power designers and technicians, the power
measurement and analysis software
(TPS2PWR1) and four new P5120
passive high-voltage probes can
be purchased together as a bundle
(TPS2PBND).
More information
For more information on the new
range of TPS2000 scopes, contact
the Australian distributors, NewTek
Instruments on (02) 9888 0100 or
point your browser to their web site
at www.newtekinstruments.com SC
Car Projects, Volume 2
THE PROJECTS: High-Energy Universal Ignition System; High-Energy Multispark CDI
System; Programmable Ignition Timing Module; Digital Speed Alarm & Speedometer; Digital
Tachometer With LED Display; Digital Voltmeter (12V or 24V); Blocked Filter Alarm; Simple
Mixture Display For Fuel-Injected Cars; Motorbike Alarm; Headlight Reminder; Engine
Immobiliser Mk.2; Engine Rev Limiter; 4-Channel UHF Remote Control; LED Lighting For
Cars; The Booze Buster Breath Tester; Little Dynamite Subwoofer; Neon Tube Modulator.
Or order by phoning (02) 9979 5644 & quoting your credit card number; or fax the details to (02)
9979 6503; or mail your order with cheque or credit card details to Silicon Chip Publications, PO
Box 139, Collaroy, NSW 2097.
siliconchip.com.au
Mail order prices:
Aust: $14.95 (incl. GST & P&P)
NZ/Asia Pacific: $18.00 via airmail
Rest of World: $21.50 via airmail
January 2005 43
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
What’s cooking? – just the TV set!
You hear some bizarre stories in this business,
from TVs getting cooked to a VCR that spat out
its motor control chip. So how does a TV get
cooked? Just have your floor-boards sanded!
Mr Cleary was having his wooden
floor-boards sanded, sealed and polished in his small but expensive ultramodern kitchen and lounge room.
Naturally, everything had to be lifted
off the ground in order for the sander/
polisher to do its work.
Being such a small apartment, space
was at a premium. Most things were
put in spare rooms or on shelves, but
also on the kitchen benchtops and
sink.
He left his Panasonic TX68PS72A
(MX12) flat-screen TV until last but by
now, there was no room left to stow
it. Ever resourceful, he eventually
decided to put it face down on a soft
thick blanket on top of his high-tech
induction cooktop – but only after
making sure the cooktop was turned
off. Not wanting to take any chances,
he also turned off the circuit breaker
to the cooktop – just in case.
Now, this TV is pretty heavy and
requires a lot of effort to lift, manoeuvre and roll over onto its front.
This meant that is was impossible
determine whether any of the cooktop
controls had moved under the blanket
but if they had, the circuit breaker was
still off.
When he had finished, he checked
and covered everything up before leaving just as the floor polishers arrived.
The men wasted no time and after a
couple of hours, the job was nearly
done when the old sanding machine
decided to stop – it was pretty hot after
a good workout.
The operator cleaned out the dust
that was clogging the machine but
could find nothing otherwise wrong
with it. However, it still wasn’t working so he went over to the fusebox
to check things out. Here he found
that not only one circuit breaker
had tripped but two. Unaware of Mr
Cleary’s failsafe approach to safety and
not knowing which circuit breaker did
what, he reset both.
Well, his sander was now back in
business so he completed his task
unaware of any other problem.
Predictably, Murphy’s Law kicked
in – the cooktop controls had moved
when the TV was placed on top of it
and unbeknownst to anyone, was now
powered on and cooking.
In operation, an induction cook
plate runs cool and only warms up
metallic objects placed on top of it
to cook. The problem was, the metal
shadowmask of the M68LVQ087X realflat picture tube was only centimetres
away and it got hot.
After a while, there was suddenly
a very large bang, followed by a loud
hissing noise. When the TV was lifted
up and the screen was visible, there
was a large crack roughly in the shape
of the cook top. The plastic cabinet was
in perfect condition but the picture
tube had been completely destroyed!
I’m not sure of the insurance implications but it does look as though the
high cost of installing a new picture
tube will render this set a complete
write-off. So despite Mr Cleary’s precautions, this has been what you might
call a first-rate high-tech accident!
Fussy audiophile
David, our main man when it comes
to audio, had a very fussy audiophile
who brought in his Technics SE-A5KXL amplifier, complaining that the
righthand channel was distorting and
intermittently cutting out.
David insisted that he also bring
in his S4-A6K-XL preamplifier as
well, despite Tony’s assurance that it
was working perfectly and couldn’t
possibly be the problem. Eventually,
David prevailed and the preamplifier
was brought in.
Despite its 23 years, the SE-A5KXL amplifier is still an impressive
piece of equipment to look at. It also
performs pretty well, with 100 watts
44 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Items Covered This Month
•
Panasonic TX68PS72A TV set
(MX12 chassis)
• Technics SE-A5K-XL amplifier
and S4-A6K-XL preamplifier
• Boston Acoustic P0054 SA1
VR2000 Subwoofer
• Sanyo CP28WF2 widescreen
TV set (FAW-128 chassis)
• Loewe Concept 770 TV
set (Art. No. 53470 Chassis
C9003)
• Toshiba 50D9UXE rear projection TV set (RB9731 chassis)
• Panasonic TC48M90A TV set
(MX5A chassis)
• Philips VR6740/75 VCR
true RMS per channel into 8Ω at just
0.001% THD.
It didn’t take long for “super-tech”
to trace the reason why the amplifier
was intermittently cutting out – the
tone defeat switches were dirty and
creating noise, causing the main
protection circuit in the amplifier to
activate. David 1, Tony 0.
The distorted amplifier was a bit
more tricky and very intermittent after
5-10 minutes operation. Dave went for
the heat/freeze approach but you have
to be very careful with this because
sometimes the ensuing condensa-
siliconchip.com.au
tion can switch the amplifier into an
avalanche that the protection circuits
cannot save.
What he did was squirt freezer onto
a cotton bud and then touch individual
active components until he found
the most sensitive one. That done, he
then reheated the device with the hot
air from our Hakko 852 desoldering
station.
This approach soon narrowed the
problem down to driver transistor
Q316, a 2SC2632. Replacing it completely fixed the problem.
After soak testing both units with
various sources, it was ready to be collected. Tony was still arguing the toss
as he departed with his precious gear
but at least he was happier now.
Woof, woof
I had an expensive 1996 Boston
Acoustic P0054 SA1 VR2000 Subwoofer come in, where a transistor
insulating pad had punctured under
one of the transistors (Q12, 2SD1138)
and had in turn blown all nine output
transistors, along with nine resistors.
The repair work was really straightforward and I made extensive DC checks
of all the components in the circuit.
I fitted the output transistors with
large mica wafers (cut to size) and
smeared all mating surfaces with
silicone heat transfer compound for
good measure. The only difficult part
was soldering the output transistors
onto the copper side of the PC board,
because the copper tracks were lifting.
Eventually though, I was pretty confident that all was OK and switched
it on.
The subsequent explosion was probably heard in Perth – it was about 10
on the Richter scale!
Back at square one, I measured
the hfe of all the new transistors and
checked the resistors. Exactly the same
components had failed as before. So
what was going on?
This time I wasn’t going to pussyfoot about. Before fitting the output
transistors, I checked the ±80V, ±12V
and ±23V rails but these seemed to
be OK. I also fitted additional fuseholders and 3A fuses and when it
was all reassembled, I connected a
200W globe in series with the 240V
into the power transformer. Finally,
with no preamp or speaker connected,
and with meters monitoring the offset
voltage and the power rails, I gingerly
switched it on.
What an anti-climax! The globe
didn’t light – instead it powered up
perfectly and all the voltages were
correct. I adjusted R29 for 7mV across
the emitter resistors but anything from
8-13mV gives a quiescent current of
35-49mA which is acceptable.
I then checked the subwoofer loudspeaker with another amplifier and it
worked perfectly. That done, I connected it to the subwoofer amplifier
and again switched it on. Once again
it fired up flawlessly. The power rails
measured ±74V but the quiescent current remained the same.
January 2005 45
Serviceman’s Log – continued
were all OK, as were the speakers and
preamp.
I guess I should have got Dave to
fix it!
Intermittent Sanyo
Finally, I connected the preamp and
rechecked everything. The 200W lamp
was only just beginning to glow very
slightly, all the voltages were correct
and there were no bad noises coming
from the speaker. The amplifier was
warm but not hot after half an hour.
And so I decided to turn it off and
reassemble it, happy that everything
was now OK.
My happiness didn’t last long. As I
turned it off, there was an unexpected
loud “pop” from the speaker. I didn’t
like that – it spelt trouble!
I examined the components for
any visible damage and after a few
minutes, I decided to try it once again.
The globe lit up and smoke poured
out of resistors R25, R27 and R36.
Aggghhhhh!
Well, that was that. I couldn’t afford
any more time and it was obvious that
the solder tracks couldn’t handle any
more component replacements. It was
a write-off.
But what had caused all this? Of
all the genuine transistors I fitted, the
hfe values for Q11 and Q13 (2SC3281)
varied widely and were very low compared to the other transistors. I selected
two at hfe = 40 and 55 but some were
a lot lower. The rest of the transistors
measured over 100.
I suspect that these transistors from
my local wholesaler were substandard.
In fact, Q8 was hard to get but eventually I managed to get originals and
they measured OK. The mica washers
46 Silicon Chip
Mr Vincent’s new Sanyo CP28WF2
(FAW-128 chassis) was brought in
suffering from intermittent vertical
deflection. The slightest knock to this
flat widescreen 66cm TV would cause
all sorts of crazy lines as the vertical
scan broke up.
This looked like a straightforward
case of dry joints or a fracture in the
PC board. However, a close inspection
on the workbench under a good bright
light failed to reveal any problems.
I wasn’t unduly fazed by this – after
all, many dry joints and hairline cracks
are invisible to the eye. As a result, I
started soldering everything in sight
around the vertical timebase circuit
and then carefully examined both
sides of the boards for cracks with
a microscope but found absolutely
nothing.
By now, I was convinced that the
problem was around the vertical output IC (IC501, LA7846N). I replaced
it in case of an internal intermittent
problem but even this didn’t fix the
problem. I then spent an awful lot of
time checking, testing and replacing
all the components around this IC.
Unfortunately, measuring the voltages
and waveforms didn’t reveal much because the fault was so intermittent. In
addition, with a feedback amplifier, a
faulty part will cause a ripple-on effect
around the whole circuit, making the
culprit difficult to pinpoint.
Finally, I tried the heating and freezing technique. This was done by propping the boards on edge while the set
was on and then freezing and heating
individual parts while watching the
results in a mirror. And that finally
pinpointed the trouble.
The problem was C503, a surfacemounted 0.01µF capacitor between
pin 6 of IC501 and ground. It had
fractured and I replaced it with an
ordinary tagged ceramic capacitor.
Crook Loewe
I had a Loewe Concept 770 (Art. No.
53470 Chassis C9003) brought in with
a partial vertical collapse.
I began by checking diodes D561,
D562 and D563 in the vertical circuit,
then replaced all the electrolytic capacitors (C561, C563, C574 and C558).
However, the problem persisted so
I figured that the vertical output IC
(IC561, TDA8175) must be faulty. I
ordered a new one from International
Dynamics but as the TDA8175 is no
longer available, I received a TDA8172
and a modification kit of 15 components plus an instruction sheet for each
chassis that took this modification.
If the modification isn’t done, it will
blow the power supply up. As a result,
I followed the information religiously,
which involved removing some components, changing others, and adding
R002, R003 and C002 on the copper
side of the board. These latter parts
bias the reference voltage on pin 7 of
the vertical IC to approximately 1.7V
from the 5V rail. As part of this job,
the track to pin 7 is cut and a resistor
R001 added to pin 1 instead.
Afterwards, the vertical geometry
needs realigning and storing for both
PAL and NTSC. However, the notes
say that if the height is still too great,
then R001 (22kΩ) should be changed
to 39kΩ.
Unfortunately, even after trying all
this, I still ended up with a screen
that was only three-quarters full, with
foldover occupying the bottom quarter
of the picture. And even the top had
poor vertical linearity.
Clearly, I still had a serious problem
but after checking all my work twice
over, I couldn’t find any measurable
problem. In the end, I felt that there
had to be something wrong with the
modifications and so I went back to
International Dynamics.
They soon got back to me and informed me that the factory had made
a few misprints in the instructions!
R578, which was originally 68Ω,
should not be replaced with a 120kΩ
resistor, as noted. Instead, it was R577
that should be changed – from 13kΩ
to 120kΩ. Correcting this fixed the
problem, much to my relief.
Afterwards, I examined the multilingual 16-page instructions and noticed an additional stamp on the front
of the German section, which is also
multilingual on alternate lines. In the
middle it says “At each actual table the
appellation of R578 (120kΩ) must be
R577 (120kΩ)”. That’s pretty torturous
“German-English” for “I meant R577
not R578”, or “please change R578 in
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the instructions to R577”, or “error in
parts list: R578 should read R577”!
Isn’t English hard?
Toshiba rear-projection
One morning, I found this massive
50-inch Toshiba 50D9UXE rear projection set (RB9731 chassis) plonked
right in front of my bench. The note
stuck on it said it was dead but ever
observant me noticed that you could
actually turn it on. However, it would
then click off after a few seconds,
which indicated one or more protection circuits cutting in like last night’s
hangover.
I was told that most faults on these models are on the U909 convergence output
board (P139488). This board is located
on the lefthand side of the chassis and
is hard to remove (the three convergence
coil plugs are a very tight fit). Eventusiliconchip.com.au
ally, however, I eventually got it out and
checked it for dry joints.
I then connected it back in without
the convergence coil plugs (Red P713,
Green P714 and Blue P715). This time
the set came on and stayed on, giving
three separate pictures. It was then a
matter of plugging each pair of coils in
separately to track the problem down.
This indicated that there was a problem
only in the green pair of output amplifiers, which are embedded in two ICs
(along with the other colours) – Q750
and Q751 (both STK392-110).
This meant that it was necessary to
replace them both. Fortunately, that
fixed all this baby’s problems – at
least, after spending a couple of hours
realigning the convergence.
Sick Panasonic
I don’t see many small-size TVs any
more because the price of new sets is
now so cheap. However, I did get a 1999
48cm Panasonic TC48M90A using an
MX5A chassis in for repair.
This set was dead except for the
red Standby LED but it was otherwise
pristine inside and out. It uses the
same type of weird power supply as
the MX3, with the main 90V rail being
derived and delivered to the line output stage all on the hot side (primary)
of the switchmode power supply.
A quick check soon showed that
there was no voltage on this line.
And on the secondary, the 41V rail
was down to 14V and the 24V rail
measured just 7V.
There are two optocouplers in the
power supply, one for voltage regulation using an SE090 IC and the other
controlled by the power on/off function. I briefly dallied with the 90V rail,
January 2005 47
Serviceman’s Log – continued
checking it for shorts and replacing the
IC regulator (IC801) before moving on
to the power-on circuit. In this circuit,
a high from pin 26 of microprocessor
IC1101 (MN1871681TFH) drives Q851,
Q850 and the optocoupler D840.
I shorted out Q851’s collector and
emitter (ground) and the set powered
up but no 5V was coming out of the
microprocessor no matter what I did.
I checked to see that 5V was available
on pin 39 but there was no 5V from
the reset pin of IC1103.
Next, I tried shorting out pins 2 and
1 of IC1103 which was supplying 4.5V
instead of 5V to the microprocessor
on reset pin 34. This told me (and the
ohmmeter confirmed it) that the microprocessor was faulty and drawing
too much current on this pin.
Fitting a replacement fixed the
problem.
Spitting chips
This final story is really weird. It’s
not from my own workbench though –
instead, it comes from J. A. of Canberra.
I’ll let him tell it in his own words . . .
I swear that the following story is
true but you’re going to find it hard
to believe.
I have been in the electronics in48 Silicon Chip
dustry for about 35 years, specifically
in computing. And because I “know”
about electronic things, it automatically
makes me qualified to fix anything that
has a mains cord or batteries!
As anyone in this field knows, when
a mate says (over a few beers) “you
know about computers and electronic
stuff, my [insert name of electronic
equipment here] has blown up. Can
you fix it?”. Being an accommodating
kind of chap, and not wishing to let
them down, much less degrade my
reputation, I usually accept. Even
more so if it’s a “damsel” that’s in
distress.
As you can imagine, this leads to
my fixing some interesting stuff – and
some not so interesting stuff..
In this case, it was a Philips
VR6740/75 VCR. I have had a look
at this machine a few times before. It
belonged to a mate and it originally
suffered interference from a nearby
wireless station, then some time later
it developed what looked like worn
heads. (That was diagnosed by a repair
shop. It turned out to be simply dirty
heads).
Anyway, my mate and his wife split
up some time ago and she scored the
VCR. She dropped it off recently, say-
ing it had the same fault as before – ie,
“doesn’t work”.
It stayed in the corner of my workshop for a few weeks, waiting for me to
get around to it. When I did have a look
at it, the fault was interesting: it would
load a tape OK and fast forward and
rewind worked, as did picture search
in forward and rewind. But if I pressed
Play, it would eject the tape!
Removing the top cover confirmed
that the capstan wasn’t turning. I removed the bottom cover and checked
the belt – it was OK and the motor
turned the capstan when I turned its
shaft. I then checked for voltage on
the capstan motor but it was at 0V at
all times.
Not having a circuit diagram, I
traced the motor leads back to an interconnecting board, then through a loom
to the motor control board. This board
is mounted upside down – ie, with its
solder side uppermost. I could plainly
see the PC tracks from the wiring loom
connector to the motor control chip
(IC704) solder pad but there was no
chip – just a row of holes!
No chip! What the hell was going
on? It looked liked someone had had
a go at this. I quizzed my wife who is
good friends with the VCR’s owner:
“Are you sure she hasn’t had this
looked at by anyone?” A definite “no”
was the answer, “she can’t afford it”.
So where was the chip? Did it fall
out?
I reasoned that if it had indeed fallen
out, then it should be still in the VCR
somewhere. I picked it up and turned
it over and around. At first, I could just
hear a rattle and then a chip fell out!
A close inspection showed some
solder on the pins and some on the PC
pads, as you would expect, but there
were no signs of it being removed
from the board intentionally. Besides,
it was still covered in the same layer
of dust that was on everything else
in the VCR.
Anyway, I cleaned up the solder
pads, replaced the chip and the VCR
worked perfectly. I was very impressed
with the quality of the picture. This
must have been an expensive unit in
its day, with stereo sound, Dolby noise
reduction and so on.
As to how the chip came to fall out,
I can only surmise that it’s proximity to the power supply makes it run
fairly hot and over the years the solder
joints became dry to the point where
SC
it simply fell out.
siliconchip.com.au
NEW YEARS SALE!
Cat. XC-5163
$
.95
89
Shocking Shooting Game
A great skirmish game!
Test your aim, and your nerves!
You and your opponent strap on
the chest targets, set the guns to
‘wimp’ or
‘tough guy’
shock level, and
GO FOR IT! If you
are ‘hit’, you get a
mild shock through the
gun’s handgrip. Two guns and
vests supplied.
Cat. GH-1095
$
.95
49
SAVE
$100
Cat. GH-1098
$
.95
79
As seen on
Channel 9's
Merrick and Rosso
Unplanned,
dubbed... The Pain
Machine!
How many batteries did Santa
bring? Probably not enough!
By now all those Christmas toys are probably
starting to run those batteries flat, and cost you
money!
Buy our rechargeable Ni-MH batteries for years of
use. They will actually save you money!
299
Visible for kilometres!
It uses a super bright
Quartz Halogen globe,
and features a huge
190mm diameter lens.
It is supplied with a
mains and in-car
charger, and the body has
integrated adjustable stands for
various mounting positions.
79
Cat. ST-3305
$
.95
69
KIT OF THE MONTH
Control appliances from anywhere!
Ref: Silicon Chip Nov 2004.
The SMS
controller kit
works with
Nokia 3210,
3310, 5110, and
6110 models to
control
electronic
outputs, and
gives you a host of control options.
The possible uses are almost endless!
Kit includes PCB, pre-programmed
Cat. KC-5400
$
.50
micro, and all electronic components.
Requires Nokia data cable.
49
Remote Controlled Mains Switch
Remote switching of
appliances!
This wireless mains system can
support up to five outlets, each
with their individual On/Off
buttons on the remote control.
They are rated at a maximum of
1000 Watts, so please check the
power consumption of high
current devices. Supplied with one
Cat. MS-6100
$
.95
remote control, and one mains switch.
SAA APPROVED.
Extra mains switches Cat. MS-6102 $29.95ea.
39
1+
$2.95
$3.59
$3.95
$5.25
$12.95
$24.90
$12.95
10+
$2.60
$3.15
$3.45
$4.60
$11.35
$22.35
$11.35
Ever lasting memories!
You can record up to a 10
second voice message to
accompany each photo.
It is great for keeping
25+
$2.30 memories alive, or sending
$2.75 to a distant relative.
$3.15 Holds 24 - 6” x 4" photos
$4.15 Cat. XC-0288
$10.35 Holds 36 - 6” x 4" photos Cat. XC-0288
$19.70 Cat. XC-0289
$
.95
$10.35
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
44
Supplied with PCBs, silkscreened and machined
case, push button bell
switch, speaker, hook-up
wire, and all electronic components. Includes the
optional 120mm length of
Cat. KC-5405
100mm diameter pipe for
$
.95
that extra rumble!
Short Form V8 Doorbell Kit
Contains the working electronics only. Supplied
with PCBs, and all electronic components.
No case, speaker, or
Cat. KC-5406
$
.95
pushbutton etc supplied.
49
In Wall Speakers
A great mounting solution!
If space is limited, or
you simply don’t want
free standing speakers,
then these are a great option for
you. 8 ohm impedance allows
them to be used in an array of
applications. Supplied with
attractive white baffle covers.
2 Way Cat. CS-2440
$99.00
3 Way Cat. CS-2442 $149.00
2 Way Ceiling Speakers
Great quality sound!
Most ceiling speakers
are just simple single
speaker designs.
These dual cone speakers are
superior, suitable for a wide
range of applications. Supplied with
attractive white baffle covers.
Two way 6.5" drivers Cat. CS-2446
Two way 8" drivers Cat. CS-2448
$89.95
$119.95
40 Channel UHF Transceiver
New model, better features!
Due to the outstanding success of our DC-1010
model, we have introduced this new version which
is more compact, and has some great new features.
It has a compact rechargeable battery pack, and is
supplied with a charging cradle that can charge up to
two transceivers at once. If the battery pack runs
flat, you can still use AAA batteries. It has a four step
scrambling function for private communications.
•Transceiver measures 53(W) x 95(H) x 32(D)mm.
One Transceiver with
Charging Cradle
Photo Album with Voice Recorder
Cat
SB-2444
SB-1723
SB-1700
SB-1706
SB-2429
SB-2460
SB-2467
Full V8 Doorbell Kit
Cat. QM-3752
$
.00
SMS Controller Kit
Don’t forget your January
Discount Coupon!
You can find it in the back
of your 2004 Catalogue!
Type
AAA 650mAh
AAA 900mAh
AA 1650mAh
AA 2000mAh
C 4500mAh
D 9000mAh
9V 200mAh
Exclusive
A must for car enthusiasts!
Ref: SC Jan 2004. Be the envy of you mates as they
hear the rumble when they press your doorbell. You
may have seen commercially available units, but
nothing like this. It sounds just like a V8,
and has variable background noise for
tappets and valves etc, for an even
more realistic effect. Two versions
available:
5,000,000 Candle Power Halogen Spotlight
Electric Shock
Reaction Game
How quick are you?
Wait for the light to
change from red to
green, then hit the
button. If you are the
last, you will receive a
mild shock, but don’t
jump the gun or
you will get one too!
In-car viewing at its
best! Connect any
composite video source
such as a DVD player,
games console, camera,
and more. It features
wide viewing angles,
image reverse, on
screen display for
controls, and more! See
our website for details.
Was $399
January 2005
Featuring 1.5" micro
speakers, and an
internal amplifier,
they sound great.
It all folds up to a neat
286g package when
not in use too.
Powered by 4 x AAA
batteries.
V8 Sounding Doorbell Kit Jaycar
7" Widescreen TFT LCD Monitor for Cars
Portable iPod / MP3 Player
Dock and Speakers
Cat. DC-1025
$
.95
89
Extra Transceiver
Cat. DC-1028
$
.95
69
Cat. XC-0289
$
.95
Spare Rechargeable
Battery Packs
Cat. DC-1029
$ .95
9
59
1
Economy Car Alarm
SAVE
$20
99
2.4GHz Portable Video Baby Monitor /
Wireless Monitoring System
Peace of mind!
Keep your ears and eyes on your
child, without wires! It has a
screen to see them and speaker
to hear them! You can also use it
for remote surveillance
applications. Up to three cameras can be
Cat. QC-3280
used with the receiver.
$
.00
SAVE
Was $299
$40
259
B&W Desktop Video Doorphone
Keep an eye on the door while
sitting at your desk!
Its functions are similar to
our popular wall mount
versions, with a 5.5" monitor,
slimline handset, and electric
door strike control. See website
for details.
SAVE
$80
Simple surveillance! Consisting
of a wireless camera with a 5.5"
monitor, with a transmission
distance of up to 100m, it is ideal
for monitoring in a shopfront, home,
or office. The camera also has built in IR Cat. QC-3254
$
.00
LEDs for night viewing. Ltd qty. Was $279
199
4 Camera Plug 'N View Deal
Just plug them in, and off you go! The deal contains
four B&W outdoor cameras with IR illumination, and
a 12" B&W four way quad monitor. It is a great, no
fuss way to get your surveillance covered. Ltd qty.
Was $899
Plug N View B&W Cameras with PIRs
Indoor Camera with Outdoor Camera with
IR Illumination & PIR IR Illumination & PIR
SAVE
$89.95
79
2
SAVE
$50
Pinhole CMOS Colour Camera with Audio
Cat. QC-3454
$
.95
99
960Hr Time Lapse VCR
B&W Video Doorphone
Motion triggering! The built in PIR can trigger an
alarm event, switcher, and more. 5m PIR detection
range. Ltd qty.
Cat. QM-3401
$
.50
SAVE
$100
$40
Cat. QV-3053
$
.00
SAVE
$250
349
Cat. QC-3602
$
.00
199
139
SAVE
$60
Cat. QC-3390
$
.00
249
IP Addressable Capture Box
Simple surveillance solution!
SAVE
You can connect up to
$50
four cameras to this
unit, and broadcast
them online securely
or publicly. Integrated web
server. Also has a local
Cat. QC-3392
composite video output. $
.00
Was $349.00
299
Hassle free installation!
Just apply power, and
the camera will transmit
video and audio to the
awaiting receiver. The multichannel receiver can be
used with up to 3 cameras,
and even scan between them. RCA outputs for
video and audio, and a mains plugpack &
connecting cables are supplied. Ltd qty.
2004 Cat Price $199
Buy an additional B&W
camera (QC-3257) for
just $50 more!
Save $219 total.
2004 Cat Price $229
Buy an additional
colour camera
(QC-3257) for just $60
more! Save $239 total.
10" B&W 4 Channel
Switching Monitor
12" B&W 4 Channel
Switching Monitor
•Variable
switching delay.
•Limited quantity.
Was $259.50
•Includes audio
and remote
control.
•Limited qty.
Was $299.50
Cat. QM-3406
$
.50
Cat. QM-3403
$
.50
199
No rainchecks on limited or clearance stock
SAVE
$60
Cat. QC-3255
$
.00
89
Colour Wireless Camera / Receiver
Even better viewing!
The colour camera, and LCD screen give you
excellent clarity to the picture. Supplied with
all mounting
hardware and wiring. Cat. QC-3606
$
.00
399
Cat. QM-3402
$
.50
199
B&W Wireless Camera / Receiver
Colour Video Doorphone
•Standard
composite
video input.
•Limited qty.
Was $199.50
Cat. LA-5198
$
.00
2.4GHz Wireless Camera Systems
See who’s at your door before you
let them in! The 4" screen lets you
see your visitors, and you can talk to
them through the handset. Supplied
with all mounting hardware and
wiring.
10" B&W Security
Monitor with Audio
299
Remote surveillance? No worries!
This internet addressable camera
features an integrated web server, so
there is no need for a computer! Also
has a local composite video output.
Was $349.00
369
Great compact size!
It measures just 20 x 20 x 16mm,
has 380TV line resolution, and is
supplied with a mains plugpack.
Ltd qty.
SAVE
Was $139.95
Cat. LA-9010
$
.00
IP Addressable Camera
Cat. LA-5435
$
.00
Cat. QC-3730
$
.00
SAVE
$79.95
Reduced false triggering!
The twin beam makes it less
likely to be broken by debris,
animals etc. It has a long range
of up to 60m indoors, or 30m
outdoors. It can be powered
from 10 to 30VDC, with
120VAC <at> 1A relay contacts.
Melcom 5 Sector Alarm Deal
SAVE
$100
799
Keep an eye on your car all
the time!
Includes black box
controller, two
transmitter
keyfobs, foot brake
trigger, car transmitter,
shock sensor, ignition cut out relay,
bonnet pin switch, battery
backup siren & wiring.
SAVE
Was $349
$50
Twin Photo-Beam Detector
Transmitter Receiver
129
Huge recording time!
Record for up to 40 days
with a standard E-180
cassette tape. Ltd qty, limit
two per customer.
Was $599
Cat. QC-3704
Was $169.95
Now $80
149
Open the door from anywhere! This
great unit acts as an intercom, with
a wireless receiver Take it out the
back, or around the house. It also
has electronic door strike control,
so you can let your Cat. AI-5510
$
.00
visitors in too!
129
Cat. QC-3702
Was $149.95
Now $70
Cat. LA-9005
$
.00
Wireless Doorbell / Intercom
with Door Strike Control
Cat. QC-3620
$
.00
2.4GHz B&W CMOS Wireless
Camera and Monitor Set
•Variable
switching delay.
•Limited quantity.
Was $129.50
Extra security for peace of
mind! Includes black box
controller, two
transmitter keyfobs,
shock sensor, ignition cut
out relay, bonnet pin switch,
battery backup siren,
SAVE
$50
and wiring. Was $199
Secure your home or office NOW!
Don’t delay any longer. Our
great Melcom deal will
get you all the parts
you need and get you
secure. See
website for
details.
Extra cameras also available - QC-3281 $189
6" B&W Dual Channel
Auto Switching Monitor
Two Way Paging Car Alarm
Full Feature Car Alarm
Basic protection for your
car! Includes black box
controller, two
transmitter keyfobs,
shock sensor, ignition
cut out relay, bonnet pin
switch, siren, and
Cat. LA-9000
$
.00
wiring. Was $119
259
SAVE
$110
Cat. QC-3260
$
.00
109
SAVE
$120
12" B&W 4 Channel
Quad Monitor with
Digital Control
•Freeze frame, image
zoom, and more.
•Limited qty.
Was $599.50
SAVE
$40
Cat. QM-3407
$
.50
449
SAVE
$150
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
Laptech Personal Swim Coach
Digital Map Distance Calculator
How far is the next turn off?
Automatically convert a map’s
scale distance to real distance
by rolling the small wheel
along the desired route. It
works with any map scale and
displays in kilometres or miles.
Just like having your own
personal trainer! It can mount
above or below the water, and
you simply touch the face at the
end of each lap. It records and
reports lap times, total distance,
and more!
Cat. XC-0210
SAVE
$
.95
Was $59.95
$10
49
A must have for every
recreational fisherman!
It includes a 14 in 1
multi tool, 0 - 6kg scales,
and an LED hand torch, all
in a convenient
Cat. TD-2053
$
.95
belt pouch.
Cat. XC-0375
$
.95
40 Channel UHF
CB Band Transceiver
Short range communication
without mobile phones!
Keep in touch within 1km in the
city, or 5km in an open area.
Operating on standard 40 channel
CB frequencies, they can be used
with CB repeaters throughout
Australia. Accessories available,
see website for details.
Was Cat. DC-1010
SAVE
$
.00
$49
$10
AM/FM Pocket Radio
Compact and portable!
An ideal gift for the older person
who just wants to listen to races
or sport. Shirt pocket special!!
Measures 50(W) Cat. AR-1774
$ .95
x 80(H) x
20(D)mm.
9
8L Collapsible Bucket
High quality batteries! Our range of SLA batteries
represent excellent value for money. They feature
leak proof construction, long service life, high
discharge capability, deep discharge recovery, and
more. Don’t use low quality SLA batteries to save a
dollar or two, you will just end up replacing them
even sooner.
Vol
6V
6V
12V
12V
12V
12V
12V
Cap
4.2Ah
12Ah
1.3Ah
2.2Ah
4.2Ah
7.2Ah
18Ah
Cat. No.
SB-2496
SB-2497
SB-2480
SB-2482
SB-2484
SB-2486
SB-2490
Qty 1+
$12.95
$29.95
$19.95
$24.95
$35.00
$36.50
$44.95
Qty 4+
$11.35
$26.90
$17.70
$22.35
$31.45
$32.90
$40.45
Qty 10+
$10.35
$23.70
$15.70
$19.70
$27.95
$28.95
$35.90
BP Solar 12V Polycrystalline Solar Panels
179
19
SAVE
$20
Modified Square Wave Inverters
Great value! They have a host of safety features such
as overload and short circuit protection, dielectric
isolation between the battery and secondary voltages,
and much more. They all have
excellent surge ratings and boast
GREAT NEW
RANGE
over 90% efficiency.
Pure Sine Wave Inverters
Great reliability! Pure Sine Wave inverters provide
a mains waveform that is much closer to that of
conventional mains supplies. This is much better, &
sometimes required when powering sensitive
equipment, some switchmode power supplies etc.
Power Surge VDC VAC Cat. No. Price
150W (300W) 12 to 230 MI-5080 $229
Suits battery chargers, fax machines, lamps and more
300W (500W) 12 to 230 MI-5082 $299
Suits laptops, lamps and fluorescents up to 300W, 34cm TVs etc
500W (1000W) 12 to 230 MI-5085 $329
Suits power tools, laptops, microwaves, blenders, small fridges etc
1000W (2000W) 12 to 230 MI-5088 $799
Suits Hi-Fi systems, computers, 68cm TVs, lighting, fridges etc!
1500W (2500W) 24 to 230 MI-5089 $999
Suits large TVs, many power tools, lighting, computers and more
Price
$235
$359
$799
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
Full function in a wrist
watch! They are extremely
portable, and use internal
rechargeable batteries. Up
to 2km range. Cat. DC-1070
$
PR
Was $199
Cat. YS-2800
$
.95
Top quality panels at a great price! Each panel has an array of 36 Polycrystalline
cells, and can charge 12V batteries in virtually any climate. They are built to last,
and designed to withstand a 25mm hail stone travelling
at terminal velocity. They are mounted in
an anodised aluminium frame that is weather
proof and corrosion resistant. See website
for full details.
Power Warranty Cat
10W 10 Year ZM-9060
20W 10 Year ZM-9062
80W 20 Year ZM-9069
$20
40Ch UHF CB Transceiver
Wrist Watch
Wash away the cares of the day - no matter how
far from civilisation you are!
The camping shower allows
you to take a shower
wherever you are. Powered
by your vehicle’s 12V battery.
Sealed Lead Acid Batteries
Massive range! Up to 8km working
range with a hi/lo setting to conserve
power.
Cat. DC-1040
SAVE
Was $119 $
.00
99
12V Camping Shower
14
1.5W High Powered UHF
CB Band Transceiver
or 2 for
$69.90
39
No need for wasted
storage space!
This bucket collapses down to
just 255 x 35mm when not in
use. Measures 255 x 230mm
open with an 8 litre
Cat. GH-1260
$
.95
capacity.
Cat. DC-1030
$
.95
59
19
29
SAVE
$20
Cut out CB traffic noise!
It remains silent until ‘called’
from another CTCSS equipped
transceiver. Up to 5km range
Was $79.95
Buy one of these
transceivers, and receive
a DC-1034 mains battery
charger absolutely FREE!
(Rechargeable batteries sold
separately, while stocks last).
A great aid
en
for draftsm
too!
Fishing Tool Set
40 Channel UHF
Transceiver with CTCSS
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
Power Surge VDC VAC Cat. No. Price
100W (300W) 12 to 230 MI-5100 $59.95
Suits battery chargers, small lights, and low power devices
150W (450W) 12 to 230 MI-5102 $79.95
Suits battery chargers, fax machines, lamps etc!
300W (1000W) 12 to 230 MI-5104 $119.95
Suits laptops, lamps & fluorescents up to 300W, 34cm TVs etc
400W (1200W) 12 to 230 MI-5106 $159.95
Suits laptops, lamps & fluorescents up to 400W, 54cm TVs etc
400W (1200W) 24 to 230 MI-5107 $169.95
Suits laptops, lamps & fluores to 400W, 54cm TVs & more from 24V
600W (1500W) 12 to 230 MI-5108 $249.95
Suits power tools, 68cm TVs, laptops, microwaves, small fridges etc
800W (2000W) 12 to 230 MI-5110 $299.95
Suits power tools, 68cm TVs, blenders, small fridges, microwaves etc
1000W (2500W) 12 to 230 MI-5112 $399.95
Suits Hi-Fi systems, computers, 68cm TVs, lighting, fridges etc
1500W (3500W) 12 to 230 MI-5114 $599.95
Suits large TVs, many power tools, lighting, computers etc
Amorphous Type Solar Panels
Very affordable! These are Amorphous Silicon type solar panels offering excellent
quality, and value for money. Be aware of cheap Amorphous solar panels which
will simply not give the claimed output power. All our panels will give claimed
power at 34°S latitude, ie, Sydney. Amorphous power output gradually decreases
over the years, unlike polycrystalline which do not.
Voltage
6 Volt
12 Volt
12 Volt
12 Volt
12 Volt
Power Cat No.
1 Watt ZM-9020
2 Watt ZM-9024
4 Watt ZM-9026
10 Watt ZM-9030
15 Watt ZM-9045
Price
$29.95
$39.95
$69.95
$139.00
$199.00
3
1.3 Mega Pixel Mini Digital Camera
Great photos anywhere!
Take it with you anywhere, anytime! It
operates as a digital camera on its own, or
a streaming web cam
when connected to a PC.
It gives you great 1280 x
960 pixel images, and
measures just 86 x 31 x
27mm.
Was $59.00
Cat. QC-3226
SAVE
$10
49
$
.00
Remote Controlled Flying Saucer
Soar to new heights of excitement!
This untethered flying saucer will
soar into the air, while you maintain
full control over its height. A small
internal battery can be recharged
on the landing base.
Saucer dia. is 230mm.
Was $49.95
Cat. GT-3004
34.95
$
Mini Digital Video Camera
Fantastic price!
This easy to use camera
fits in the palm of your
hand! The recorded
video can be
transferred to a
computer for editing, or
simply viewed directly
on any TV
with AV
inputs.
Supplied
with
New
camera bag, cables and
software.
improved
•3.1 mega pixel software
model withal
resolution for stills.
32MB intern
•1.5" colour LCD screen.
memory
•5 layer glass lens.
•32MB internal memory
Cat. QC-3230
•SD/MMC expansion slot
$
.00
•4x digital zoom
•Internal microphone and lots more!
249
SAVE
$15
Talking Pedometer with FM Radio
Radio Controlled Boat
Great fun on the water!
This little beauty
speeds around the
bathtub or pool
with full
manoeuvrability.
Uses an internal
battery that is
recharged with the battery
pack. Was $29.95
SAVE
$5
Listen to music while you burn calories!
It announces the steps, distance,
calories burnt and exercise
time when you press the
TALK button, or
automatically at intervals.
Integrated auto-scan
Cat. XC-0265
FM radio with
$
.95
earphones included.
29
24.95
$
Measures just 44 x 44mm!
At the touch of a button it will scan
for stations. It is so small you won’t
even notice it in your Cat. AR-1770
pocket while running
$ .95
or jogging etc.
Electronic Toy Safes
Animated Pen Stand
9
Air Powered Rocket
Launcher and Pump
All Colours (ea)
19.95
$
IOUS!
HILLAR
Your Grandmother won't
like it, but you will!
It lets out a series of
amusing sounds and lifts its
head when you insert a pen
into the rear-facing rectal
receptacle.
ted!
Cat. GT-3110
19.95
$
12VDC Cooler / Warmers
Keep your pies hot, or your beers cold!
A solid state thermoelectric
SAVE
device cools to -25°C, or
$5ea
heats to +65°C relative to
ambient temperature. Perfect
transport for hot or cold food
and drinks over long distances
without trouble. They are
powered from your car’s
cigarette lighter socket or a
mains plugpack (not included).
4L Versions
4L RED Cat. GH-1376
$
.95ea
4L SILVER Cat. GH-1377
Holds 6 x 375mL cans Was $44.95
8L
Version
8L RED Cat. GH-1378
$
.95
Holds 12 x 375mL cans Was $79.95
39
74
Mains plugpack available to suit - GH-1379 $39.95.
4
Great fun for the whole family!
The missiles launch spectacularly
into the air with the simple use of a
hand pump. They launch
over 30m into Cat. GT-3006
the air!
$
.95
Cat. YS-5545
7.95
$
Liar liar, pants on fire!
Your mates will tremble as
you question them about the
size of fish they say they
caught. If they lie, they will
receive a mild shock. Great
fun at your next party.
Cat. GH-1093
HONEST!
44.95
$
Shocking Tank Battle Set
Remote control battles with a twist!
These futuristic looking remote control tanks
have IR cannons to fire at each other.
Look out though, if you get hit, you will
receive a mild shock! Great fun.
•Supplied as a pair.
Cat. GH-1099
99.95
$
34.95
SAVE
$15
Cat. GG-2104
59.95
$
SAVE
$20
STYLISH &
AL
FUNCTION
2.4GHz Wireless Audio Video Senders
Watch cable TV all over the house!
Great for parties!
It emits a harmless fog that can
help create great lighting
effects, mystical low lying fog,
and more. 240VAC mains
Cat. AF-1210
powered. Requires
$
.95
Cat. AF-1212 fog juice.
99
1L Fog Juice for
Fog Machine
Galileo Thermometers
Invented by Galileo hundreds of
years ago! These thermometers are
as beautiful to look at as they are
functional.The glass spheres
rise and fall in the liquid column
to indicate current room
temperature. Limited quantity.
Two sizes available:
GG-2102 38cm, Was $49.95
GG-2104 53cm, Was $79.95
$
29
KILLS
S
COCKROACHE
TOO!
Shocking Lie Detector
Cat. GG-2102
Fog Machine
R-Ra
Keep the kids entertained!
The Amazing Flygun
is a safe, fun, and
effective method of
killing flies and
mosquitoes. Launch
the spring powered swatter at
your target! It is safe, fun and
really does work!
FM Auto Scan Radio
Cat. GT-3410
Ideal protection
against… siblings!
Features an
illuminated keypad
and programmable
combination, with
voice or sound effects.
•185(H) x 135(W) x
125(D)mm.
Pink Cat. GH-1310 Blue Cat. GH-1311
The Amazing Flygun!
Cat. AF-1212
9.95
$
“Norbert” Robotic Vacuum Cleaner
Sit back & relax while your
robot cleans the house!
It automatically moves
around obstacles, and an
intelligent optical sensor
assists in avoiding walls
& obstructions. Works
best to supplement your
Cat. GH-1395
manual cleaner, not replace it.
$
.00
Cat. GH-1395
Spare Dust Filters Pk 2 Cat. GH-1396 $19.95
Mop Papers Pk 100 Cat. GH-1397 $19.95
249
Send a signal from a DVD player, set-top box etc., to
another room, without the use of any cables! You can
use as many receivers as you like, without degrading
signal quality. Each unit comes supplied with stereo
audio/video transmitter and receiver, mains plugpacks
& RCA cables. Transmission range is up to 100m, but
depends on the type of construction materials used.
Was $99
Cat. AR-1832
SAVE
Extra receiver to suit
$
.00
$10
Cat. AR-1833 $69
89
2.4 GHz Wireless A/V Sender
with Remote Control Extender
With the addition of an IR remote
control repeater you can change the
channel of the source device etc from
the other room. Was $139
SAVE
Extra receiver to suit
$30
Cat. AR-1831 $89
Cat. AR-1830
109.00
$
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
Digital Voice Memo Keyring
Business Card Scanner
Great for quick voice notes!
It holds multiple messages up to a
total length of 20 seconds. Great for
phone numbers, names, dates, and
more!
Was $21.95
SAVE
$5
Cat. XC-0276
139
16.95
$
USB Radio and Remote Control
Image Media Player
Digital slide shows on your TV!
Just insert your memory card and plug it into the
composite input on your TV!
It also acts as a card reader
when connected to your PC.
Cat. XC-4857
149.00
$
Multiple functions from this tiny unit!
Store names, phone numbers, email
addresses, and more. Includes alarm
clock, calculator and world time too.
•65(L)x42(W)x15(D)mm. Cat. XC-0182
19.95
$
Stay safe on the roads!
Incorrect tyre pressures
can have adverse affects
on handling and stopping
distance. Keep check on
your tyre pressures easily.
0 to 150PSI range.
69.95
$
Stay safe this summer. It displays blood alcohol
concentration between 0.00% and
0.05%. It provides a good result, but
should not be relied upon to produce
precise results.
Cat. QM-7292
59.95
$
Personal Desktop Fan
Cat. XM-5124
29.95
$
69.95
$
128MB 5 in 1 Digital Camera
Cat. GH-1190
49.95
$
Ideal for students, lecturers, and tradespeople!
It features a metal barrel, twist action pen,
and a soft action button to activate the
laser.
SAVE
Cat. ST-3090
Was $19.95
$5
Cat. GH-1074
9.95
$
Personal Fan with Storage
Compartment
14.95
$
Vibrating Pen
The ideal beach companion!
It has soft blades for safety and a
storage compartment to keep
your valuables safe too. Requires
2 x AA
Cat. YX-2590
batteries.
$ .00
Limited qty.
5
Personal Fans with Water Spray
Great relief from a hard day’s work!
The vibrating head will gently soothe
stress and tension,
and includes a
Cat. ST-3096
pressure
SAVE
$
.95
point chart.
$5
Was $24.95
19
UV LED Glow Pen
Be the envy of your friends!
It features a bright UV LED for a
great purple glow.
2004 Cat. Price
$14.95
Cat. GH-1072
7.95
$
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
69
Cat. XC-5135
Going On Holidays? Use our
Automatic Pet Feeder!
Don’t worry about
troubling your
neighbours!
Just put the food in
and program the
timer for 8, 12, or
24hrs. It will then slide open
the lid and play your recorded voice
message so your pet knows it’s dinner
time! Three separate compartments.
A cheap alternative! It has no internal
memory, instead using standard SD cards
(available separately), giving
you a cheap, high capacity
MP3 player. See website for
details. Measures just 57(W) x
45(H) x 12(D)mm and runs
Cat. GE-4003
$
.95
on 1 AAA battery.
Possibly the most versatile
digital device around!
It measures just 72 x
17 x 15mm, but what
you can’t tell by
looking at it, is that it
actually has five
different functions.
It operates as a:
•300k pixel digital camera
storing up to 2000 images.
•100k pixel digital
video camera with up to 20 mins storage.
•Voice recorder with up to 2 hrs storage.
SAVE
•Web camera when connected to a PC.
$50
•128MB USB flash disk for data storage.
Powered by an internal lithium battery
Cat. QC-3224
charged by the USB port. Ltd qty.
$
.00
Was $299
249
W R I T I N G W I T H S T Y LE ! G R E AT P E N S F O R S C H O O L !
Laser Pointer Pen
5 in 1 Pen
Keep your cool in summer!
It will create a refreshing breeze
to keep you cool. Measures
130(W) x 160(D) x 75(H) folded.
Keep your cool!
These fans have a water spray
to use on those scorching
summer days.
Small size GH-1070
Large size GH-1072
No more tangles!
The excess cord will
retract out of the way.
19.95
19.95
149
Wireless Keyboard & Mouse
$
$
Great music portability!
It can store up to two hours of
MP3 music or four hours of WMA
music. It has 5 inbuilt equalisation
settings for optimum sound, and can
operate just as a USB flash Cat. GE-4001
$
disk.
Eliminate desktop
clutter! Ergonomic
design with a black
and silver finish.
Software supplied.
Cat. XM-5122
Alcohol Breath Tester with Readout
3.95
Cat. GE-4003
Great rubber feel!
Ergonomic design,
500dpi resolution.
Cat. GG-2310
128MB MP3 Player
with LCD Screen
Memory Card Type MP3 Player
USB Optical Mouse
Digital Tyre Pressure Gauge
$
Radio on your PC!
Receive, play, and
record FM radio
stations through an
ultra-stable phaselocked-loop (PLL) tuning
system for superior
reception. Includes an IR remote
control which can also be used with
software such as MS PowerPoint.
Mini USB Optical Mouse with
Retractable Lead
Touch Screen Data
Bank Keychain
Cat. GH-1070
SAVE
$30
No more data entry! Just slip a business
card through the scanner, and it automatically
detects the information, stores it in a
database, or prepares
it for export to popular
software. Cat. XC-4960
Was $169
$
.00
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
SAVE
$5
Cat. ST-3063
9.95
$
What more could you want in a pen?
It features a PDA stylus, powerful magnet, small
Phillips and slotted screwdrivers, and of course a
ball point pen. Ltd qty.
Was $14.95
SAVE
$7.95
Cat. ST-3097
7.00
$
LED Glow Pens
Write in the dark!
These great pens incorporate a bright LED that
shines through the clear acrylic barrel. This provides
excellent illumination right where you are writing.
Great to impress your friends!
Red
ST-3065
SAVE
Blue
ST-3066
$3
Green
ST-3067
White
ST-3071
Was $9.95
ALL TYPES (ea)
6.95
$
5
4A Car Battery Charger
Imac® Blue Powerboards
Colour Wheel for PAR 36 Lights
Keep your batteries in top
shape!
It delivers up to 4A, reducing as
the battery comes up to charge.
Minimum battery capacity is
20Ah, mains powered.
SAVE
Ltd qty.
$20
Was $39.95
They look great!
They have a max load
rating of 2400W, with a
safety overload and reset switch. A 1m Cat. MS-4041
$ .95
mains lead is attached & there are two
sizes. Ltd qty.
Cat. MS-4046
4 Way MS-4041 Was $5.95, Save $3.00
$ .95
6 Way MS-4046 Was $8.25, Save $3.30
A great way to enhance party
lighting!
It works well with mirror balls, or just
on its own. The rotating wheel
changes the colour of the light shining
from behind. Ltd qty.
SAVE
Was $31.50
$11.55
Mains Extension Leads
12VDC Mini PAR
Halogen Light
2
Cat. MB-3520
$
.95
19
8A Car Battery Charger
Great for big batteries!
The four stage LED scale indicates
charging status, and you can select
from heavy or trickle charging.
Suitable for 6 and 12V batteries.
Ltd qty.
Cat. MB-3522
Was $69.95 $
.95
29
SAVE
$40
4
Stock up now!
They feature a “safe
socket”, which has a
flange around it, so kids
can’t slide a knife in and
hurt themselves. Ltd qty.
3m PS-4125 Was $4.95
5m PS-4130 Was $5.95
Cat. PS-4125
$ .95
SAVE
$2
Cat. PS-4130
$ .50
SAVE
$2.45
2
3
Just like the real thing!
It uses a 12V 20W MR11 halogen
globe. It includes a mains plugpack,
and four different coloured filters for
a great effect. Ltd qty.
SAVE
Was $29.95
$15
Cat. SL-2961
$
.95
19
Cat. SL-2967
$
.95
14
5 Input Mains Powered Stereo DJ Mixer
Charger for Nokia Phones
Twin Underwater Halogen Lamps
Mix up a storm!
Now you can be the DJ at
your next party. It has
great functionality
including crossfade, talk
over, LED level indication
and more. Ltd qty.
Was $169
Great as a spare!
Keep one at home, and one at the
office. It has an output of 6.8VDC at
700mA, which is required for Nokia
phone charging. Ltd qty.
SAVE
Was $29.95
Light up your fishpond!
This set comprises of two 10W
halogen lamps that are
powered by the included mains
transformer. 2m total lead
SAVE
length. Ltd qty.
$10
Was $19.95
SAVE
$70
Cat. AM-4210
$
.00
99
$22
Cat. MB-3580
$ .95
7
Cat. SL-2765
$ .95
9
Wireless IR Headphones
4 Port Automatic KVM Switch
6V Rechargeable Halogen Torch
Walk around the room with no wires!
The reproduction is clear, and does not
suffer from RF interference like radiobased units. 7 metres
operating distance.
Ltd qty.
Cat. AA-2051
SAVE
$
.95
Was $79.95
$30
Ideal for multiple PCs!
It swaps the keyboard,
monitor, and mouse,
between each PC with the use
of “Hot Keys”. Ideal for sever
rooms etc. Ltd qty.
SAVE
Was $129.95
$70
Super bright!
It will run for up to 2hrs
on a full charge, and
features an integrated
stand in the base.
Includes mains charger.
Ltd qty.
Was $47.95
49
Mains / Telephone
Surge Protector
SAVE
$8
Protect your equipment!
It uses fast acting MOVs
to neutralise spikes and
surges. Ltd qty. Cat. MS-4026
Was $22.95
$
.95
14
Mains Surge Protector
Protect your mains
appliances! Metal Oxide
Varistor (MOV) protection
on all three lines. Ltd qty.
Was $14.95 Cat. MS-4008
$ .95
SAVE
$5
9
Cat. YN-8096
$
.95
59
Mains Double Adaptor
Handy around the house!
Stock up now so you
always have one when
you need it! Ltd qty.
Was $3.65 Cat. PP-4032
$ .00
2
SAVE
$1.65
SAVE
$28
Cat. ST-3086
$
.95
19
3,500,000 Candle
Power Spotlight
Super bright! Features a
water resistant ABS case,
SAVE
$15
supplied with mains and car
chargers. Ltd qty, may Cat. ST-3304
be store display model. $
.95
Was $59.95
44
STOCK CLEARANCE SALE!
We have some stock with very limited quantities, but at extremely good prices. Stock is not available in all stores, so please
call to check availability. Stock may not be transferable between stores. No rainchecks or further discounts apply.
Product Description
AR-1718
AA-2015
AA-2046
CG-2380
CS-2465
GH-1013
GH-1014
GH-1052
GH-1054
GH-1100
GH-1152
GT-303*
GT-3040
GT-3042
HP-1295
HM-3830
LA-5180
LA-5319
LA-5510
PL-0948
PP-1190
PP-1194
PA-3658
QP-2272
QP-2275
QC-3220
QC-3250
QC-3270
QC-3271
QC-3274
QC-3275
QC-3338
QC-3340
6
Original RRP
DYNAMO REMOTE CONTROL UNIVERSAL 4IN1
EARPHONES STEREO HIGH QUALITY
HEADPHONES KOSS/FORD 2 FOR 1 DEAL 6.5MM
PA SPEAKER 12IN 8R 100WRMS CARDBOARD
SURROUND SOUND SPEAKER 3PCE ADD-ON 25W
DISPLAY TURNTABLE ROUND 7.5IN
DISPLAY TURNTABLE SQUARE 120MM
MINI MIXER/CREAMER/VACUUM CLEANER 3IN1
MAGIC PILLOW W/BLUE CARRY BAG
CAR BOOT EXTENDER W/LIGHT & BOX CUTTER
COCKTAIL SHAKER W/ACCESSORIES PLASTIC
REMOTE CONTROL MINI CARS - ASSORTED MODELS
REMOTE CONTROL COMBAT TANK RF 27MHZ
REMOTE CONTROL COMBAT TANK RF 40MHZ
REEL-WIRE TIDY ROLL UP PK2
CABINET CORNER LOCKING PLAST LGE PK8
PERSONAL ALARM BLK 55X67X20MM
DUMMY CAMERA ROTATING METAL CASE W/BRKT
ALARM PANEL AV-GAD 8ZONE W/DIALLER
COMPUTER LEAD IDE ATA100 3SKT ROUND 480MM BLK
PLG PCB DIN41612 32WAY ROW
PLG PCB DIN41612 48WAY ROW
ADPT PLG SCART - 3SKT RCA
METAL DETECTOR HANDHELD
TESTER DETECTOR METAL & VOLTAGE
WEB CAMERA USB CMOS 100K PIXEL
CAMERA CCD B&W WEATHERPROOF MTL CASE
CAMERA CMOS COLOUR MINI RF 380TVL
CAMERA CMOS COLOUR 2.4GHZ CH1 SUITS QC-3270
CAMERA CMOS COLOUR RF W/12IR LED & MTL CASE
CAMERA CMOS COLOUR IR 2.4GHZ CH4 SUITS QC-3274
BRACKET CEILING MTL R/A SLV 30KG MAX
LENS CAMERA CS MOUNT 4MM ECONOMY
$59.95
$10.95
$39.95
$99.50
$99.95
$59.95
$44.95
$24.95
$39.95
$24.95
$14.95
$29.95
$44.95
$44.95
$9.95
$11.75
$11.95
$89.95
$319.00
$24.95
$1.70
$2.20
$10.95
$69.95
$19.95
$49.95
$149.00
$249.00
$129.00
$299.00
$179.00
$49.95
$24.95
Now
Save
Product Description
$20.00
$6.95
$29.95
$59.50
$59.95
$39.95
$24.95
$12.00
$19.95
$7.00
$7.00
$14.95
$24.95
$24.95
$4.95
$6.75
$5.95
$39.95
$279.00
$14.95
$1.00
$1.50
$6.95
$35.00
$14.95
$29.95
$99.00
$199.00
$99.00
$249.00
$139.00
$29.95
$9.95
$39.95
$4.00
$10.00
$40.00
$40.00
$20.00
$20.00
$12.95
$20.00
$17.95
$7.95
$15.00
$20.00
$20.00
$5.00
$5.00
$6.00
$50.00
$40.00
$10.00
$0.70
$0.70
$4.00
$34.95
$5.00
$20.00
$50.00
$50.00
$30.00
$50.00
$40.00
$20.00
$15.00
QC-3342
QC-3344
QC-3380
QM-7243
SM-1022
SM-1025
SM-1026
TD-2054
TH-2314
TH-2316
TH-2324
TD-2446
WC-7628
XC-0190
XC-0196
XC-0245
XC-0298
XC-0310
XC-0320
XC-1006
XC-4646
XC-4700
XC-4714
XC-4730
XC-4770
XC-4812
XC-4851
XC-5034
YN-8181
YN-8182
YN-8183
YN-8184
ZD-1739
No rainchecks on limited or clearance stock
Original RRP
LENS CAMERA CS MOUNT 6MM ECONOMY
LENS CAMERA CS MOUNT 8MM ECONOMY
CAMERA DIG PEN CMOS RS232 W/LEAD SKT D9
SCALE 2KG DIGITAL LCD STAINLESS STEEL W/BOWL
SWITCH DIL SPST 4WAY
SWITCH DIL COLOUR CODED 8WAY
SWITCH DIL SPST 6WAY
SCREWDRIVER 7IN1 OCTOPUS W/TORCH LIGHT
WRENCH ADJUSTABLE 10IN MARINE GRADE STAINLESS
WRENCH ADJUSTABLE 12IN MARINE GRADE STAINLESS
PLIERS SLIPJOINT 12IN MARINE GRADE STAINLESS
TAP HANDLE FOR M4-M6 TAPS
PRINTER LEAD IEEE1284 D25 - CENT HPCN36 2M
MESSAGE BOARD RED 4 CHARACTERS
MESSAGE DISPLAY ROTATING H/HELD BATT OPERATED
ALARM CLOCK LCD BIRDS SINGS & FEEDS W/PIR
WEATHER STATION W/ DIGITAL BAROMETER/COMPASS
ANALOG THERMOMETER/HYGROMETER/BAROMETER
ANALOG CLOCK/THERMO/HYGRO/BAR
AURA INTERACTOR AMPLIFIER 20WRMS 4OHMS
BASE SWIVEL PLAST FOR TV/VCR/HIFI 16" DIAMETER
MINIDISC 74MIN REWRITABLE PK5
CDR 700MB/80MIN W/JEWEL CASE BLK
DVD-R 4GB7 1X W/SLIM JEWEL CASE FORTIS
CARD READER USB C/FLASH & SMART MEDIA
CARD READER USB
CARD READER C/FLASH/SMARTMEDIA/MICRODRV
BUZZER PC FAN ALARM
CAT5 PATCH LEAD 1M BLU PK5
CAT5 PATCH LEAD 1.5M BLU PK5
CAT5 PATCH LEAD 2M BLU PK2
CAT5 PATCH LEAD 3M BLU PK2
LED 3MM WATERCLEAR BICOLOUR RED/GRN
$24.95
$24.95
$99.95
$69.95
$1.50
$2.25
$2.00
$24.95
$22.95
$29.95
$29.95
$4.95
$22.50
$59.95
$29.95
$19.95
$79.95
$39.95
$59.95
$5.00
$19.95
$16.95
$0.99
$1.95
$79.95
$69.00
$34.95
$13.95
$11.95
$13.95
$7.50
$8.95
$0.73
Now
Save
$9.95
$9.95
$69.95
$39.95
$1.00
$1.50
$1.25
$19.95
$10.00
$14.95
$14.95
$2.00
$8.00
$39.95
$10.00
$10.00
$40.00
$24.95
$39.95
$2.50
$9.95
$12.95
$0.70
$1.50
$40.00
$39.00
$19.95
$7.95
$6.00
$6.00
$4.00
$4.00
$0.40
$15.00
$15.00
$30.00
$30.00
$0.50
$0.75
$0.75
$5.00
$12.95
$15.00
$15.00
$2.95
$14.50
$20.00
$19.95
$9.95
$39.95
$15.00
$20.00
$2.50
$10.00
$4.00
$0.29
$0.45
$39.95
$30.00
$15.00
$6.00
$5.95
$7.95
$3.50
$4.95
$0.33
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
NEW HARDCORE ELECTRONICS!
A LONG LOST TREASURE!
The Practical Guide to Satellite TV
19
For use on waterproof
crimp connectors.
Suits RG-59 (4C),
RG-6 (5C), F, BNC,
and RCA
connectors.
Cat. TH-1802
$
.95
A C O I N C I D E N C E, B UT N OT A F LU K E!
These meters are of outstanding quality, and will rival
the best of them. They come with a lifetime
guarantee. As long as you own the meter, we will
repair or replace the product if it
becomes genuinely faulty. Beat that!
79
Waterproof F Crimp Connector
Cat. PP-0670
$ .49
Waterproof F-81 line
plug, compression type.
1
TDA1905 5W Audio Amp IC BARGAIN
SCOOP PURCHASE!
It is a 5W audio amplifier with an
internal muting facility. 16 DIP
package, data sheets are available on our
website and are included with the 100 pack.
Cat. ZL-3600
Cat. ZL-3602
Cat. ZL-3604
$ .95 ea
$
.50 pk 10 $
pk 100
34
200
18W Professional Soldering Iron
Perfect for precise soldering!
It offers rapid heat up, instant recovery, stainless
steel barrel, and iron clad chrome plated tip.
Was $34.95
SAVE
$5
Cat. TS-1551
$
.95
DURATECH
29
Soldering Iron
Ideal for hobbyists and handy-work!
Stainless steel barrel, and
an
orange cool grip, impact
resistant handle. Mains
powered, fully approved.
Cat. TS-1475
Was $16.95
$
.95
SAVE
12
$4
1000V 7 Piece Screwdriver Set
Cat. TD-2022
$
.95
19
Record phone conversations!
It is designed for use in call
centres where a supervisor
can listen to, or record the
conversation. NOT AUSTEL
APPROVED.
Was $80
49
True RMS Commercial
Contractor Grade
Digital Multimeter
True RMS Commercial
Contractor Grade Clamp
Meter
•High speed analogue
bargraph.
•Relative mode.
•Capacitance.
•Frequency.
•Duty cycle.
•CAT III 600V
•200Amp AC current capability.
•Vibrating AC voltage detection.
•Audible dangerous voltage
warning.
•CAT III 1000V
See our website for a
long list of features
and specs.
Cat. QM-1625
$
.00
449
SAVE
$30.05
SAVE
$3
Cat. TS-1410
$ .95
SAVE
$8
Cat. TS-1420
$ .95
6
9
349
For the
serious
Techie!
Used to correct the false colour that appears on
TVs and CRT monitors when a strong magnet (such
as a loudspeaker) comes near the screen. One zap
with this product and your TV/Monitor’s
SAVE
natural reproduction is restored.
$20
•240VAC, 1.8m lead. Ltd qty Cat. TH-2480
$
.95
Was $79.95
59
Mains Powered Glue
Guns Slashed!
Great for hobby work!
They are ideal for low stress repairs
and bonding on all sorts of materials.
See website for details.
Two types available. Ltd qty.
SAVE
7.4mm stick glue gun
$7
Cat. TH-1990 Was $16.95
11mm stick glue gun
SAVE
Cat. TH-1992 Was $17.95
$6
60W SMD Soldering Tweezers
Cat. TH-1990
$ .95
9
Cat. TH-1992
$ .95
11
SAVE
$30
A must have for the toolbox!
If can run at 400°C or 600°C, and
is great for heatshrinking, quick
drying parts, making plastic
maleable, and more! Ltd qty. Cat. TH-1600
$
.95
Was $79.95
49
Digital Vernier Caliper
No more eye strain taking readings!
The best way to
solder SMD.
Solder and desolder small
components or large flat
pack ICs. Tips available
from 2 to 20mm. 2mm tips
supplied.
SAVE
Was $99.95
$30
Cat. TS-1700
$
.95
69
Tamiya Model Tyres
Ideal for model car
robotics projects!
Two types available:
Truck Tyres - Set of 4.
Includes 4 x 36mm dia tyres,
hubs to suit, and Cat. YG-2860
$ .95
2 x 100mm
axles.
9
Sports Tyres - Set of 2.
The clear LCD shows the exact measurement
in millimetres or inches, so
Cat. TD-2082
there is no guesswork involved.
$
.95
•Accurate to 0.01mm.
79
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
Cat. QM-1628
$
.00
Stadium Double Insulated
Degaussing Wand
Economy Soldering Iron Sellout!
Get them before they’re
gone! They
are great for someone just
starting out, or as a backup
iron to keep in the toolbox.
Two types available.
Ltd qty.
25W TS-1410 Was $9.95
80W TS-1420 Was $17.95
1600W Heat / Stripper Gun
Teletaper - Telephone Audio Tool
Cat. QC-1990
$
.95
14
IDEAL PROFESSIONAL MULTIMETERS
F Type Waterproof Crimper
GS and VDE tested
and approved.
Soft rubber grip
handles, with
insulation right
to the tip.
CHECK THIS
GREAT PRICE!
Add green power to your devices!
Just crank the handle for power. It
can easily be adapted for use in low
current projects and devices. Crank
slowly, and the voltage is low.
Crank fast, and the voltage is high.
See website for details.
Cat. MD-7000
$
.95
Jaycar has it back!
Previously obsolete, the HKZ-101
has been commonly requested,
but difficult to find since Siemens
deleted it in 1998. This copy is
almost identical, and Cat. ZD-1900
works very well. See
$
.95
our website for data.
49
40W
Hand Crank Dynamo
HKZ-101 Hall Effect Vane
Fourth Edition. Learn all about
satellite TV! It has 156 pages
covering topics such as the history
and evolution of satellite TV,
components and dishes, encryption
systems, as well as practical
information on setting up satellite
receivers, and data. Cat. BV-1800
$
.00
292 x 207mm.
3
This section is dedicated to what’s new
for the Hardcore Enthusiast.
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
Includes 2 x 56mm dia tyres,
a set of wide and narrow
hubs to suit, screws, nuts &
two small
Cat. YG-2862
wrenches.
$
.95
16
7
29
Performance Electronics for Cars
Book – Silicon Chip Publications
The new age of DIY
automotive
performance!
It contains the
instructions to all of the
16 projects in the series,
as well as chapters on
engine management
systems, DIY projects,
kit building, and much
more. Over 150 pages!
See website for kits.
99
20W “Schoolies Amp” Kit
A great low cost project!
Ref: SC Nov 2004. Amplifier
projects can sometimes
become quite expensive, but
not this one. It uses a simple,
but effective design to give
20WRMS into a four or eight
ohm load. Kit supplied with
PCB, and all electronic components.
Requires +/- 25V power supply, use
KC-5347. Heatsink not included.
179
USB Mains Board Switch Kit
Cat. KC-5403
$
.95
19
Automatic peripheral switching!
Ref: Silicon Chip Nov 2004.
This project
allows you to
have your peripheral devices switch automatically
when you switch on your USB equipped PC. It will fit
INSIDE many power boards, so you won’t even know
Cat. KC-5401
it’s there! Kit includes PCB & all
$
.95
electronic components.
Dr Video Kit MkII
An even better
video
stabiliser!
Ref: Silicon
Chip June ‘04.
Movie companies
deliberately tamper
with the video signal to restrict copying,
but this robs you of the true high quality
picture your system is capable of and
you deserve. Get the picture you paid
for and strip out these annoying signals
from composite or S-video.
Kit includes PCB, case,
Cat. KC-5390
panels and all electronic
$
.95
components.
99
Sub-Bass Processor Kit with
Bridge Mode
Cleaner bass, better low end
response! It provides a dual phase
output for amplifier bridging too. Kit
includes PCB, and all electronic
components.
Cat. KA-1814
$
.95
29
Laser Light Show Kit
Great for parties! Using a laser pointer
(not included), you can project patterns
similar to a spirograph toy onto a wall.
Kit includes PCB, motors, and all
electronic components.
Cat. KG-9098
$
.95
39
Rev Limiter / Gear Shift
Indicator Kit
Three
stage
shift
indication!
Ref: SC April 99.
It features three
lamps that light in succession on the way
to ‘red line’, and can function as a rev
limiter with the use of
Cat. KC-5265
the KC-5255 Engine
$
.95
Immobiliser Kit.
34
50MHz Frequency Meter Kit
Cheap and accurate!
Ref: SC Oct 2003. It is auto ranging, and
displays on a 16 character
LCD.
Resolution
varies
between
0.1 and
10Hz depending
on the input
frequency. Includes all components and
hardware.
Cat. KC-5369
Requires probe.
$
.95
Micromitter Stereo
FM Transmitter Kit
69
Transmit
quality audio
to your
FM stereo!
Ref: Silicon
Chip Dec
2002.
Crystal locked to a preset frequency to
eliminate frequency drift. Kit includes
PCB, case, silk screened front panel, and
all electronic components. Cat. KC-5341
$
.95
49
8
PRICES VALID TO
31ST JANUARY 2005
19
Requires a mains powerboard.
Short Circuits is a great way to learn electronics.
All projects are in a logical learning order, and
many of them have great ‘real world’ applications.
Check out Short Circuits 1, 2, and 3 at your local
Jaycar store, or on our website.
19
YOUR LOCAL JAYCAR STORE
EXCLUSIVE TO JAYCAR!
Ref: Silicon Chip
Nov 2004.
Automatically
open your
electronic gates or
automatic garage door as you approach in your
vehicle, without the use of remote controls! It uses
a large coil sensor to detect moving metal (eg a car
chassis), which reduces false alarms from animals
and people etc. Kit supplied with PCB, silk screened
machined case, pre-wound and
Cat. KC-5402
$
.00
insulated 5000 turn coil, and all
electronic components.
Superior video quality!
Ref: Silicon Chip April
2004.
Component video is
the best quality
format available, but it
your TV or Plasma screen etc only accepts
RGB inputs? Build this unit and get the best out of
your equipment. Kit includes PCB, case, silk-screened
punched panels,colour coded RCA
Cat. KC-5388
sockets, 9VAC plugpack, and all
$
.95
electronic components.
Learning Electronics? Check out Short Circuits!
Cat. BS-5080
$
.80
NEW SOUTH WALES
Albury
Ph (02) 6021 6788
Bankstown
Ph (02) 9709 2822
Bondi Junction Ph (02) 9369 3899
Brookvale
Ph (02) 9905 4130
Campbelltown Ph (02) 4620 7155
Erina
Ph (02) 4365 3433
Hornsby
Ph (02) 9476 6221
Newcastle
Ph (02) 4965 3799
Parramatta
Ph (02) 9683 3377
Penrith
Ph (02) 4721 8337
Silverwater
Ph (02) 9741 8557
St. Leonards Ph (02) 9439 4799
Sydney City
Ph (02) 9267 1614
Taren Point
Ph (02) 9531 7033
Wollongong
Ph (02) 4226 7089
VICTORIA
Coburg
Ph (03) 9384 1811
Frankston
Ph (03) 9781 4100
Geelong
Ph (03) 5221 5800
Melbourne
Ph (03) 9663 2030
Ringwood
Ph (03) 9870 9053
Springvale
Ph (03) 9547 1022
QUEENSLAND
Aspley
Ph (07) 3863 0099
Brisbane - Woolloongabba
Ph (07) 3393 0777
Gold Coast - Mermaid Beach
Ph (07) 5526 6722
Townsville
Ph (07) 4772 5022
Underwood
Ph (07) 3841 4888
AUSTRALIAN CAPITAL TERRITORY
Canberra
Ph (02) 6239 1801
TASMANIA
Hobart
Ph (03) 6272 9955
SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Adelaide
Ph (08) 8231 7355
Clovelly Park Ph (08) 8276 6901
WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Perth
Ph (08) 9328 8252
NORTHERN TERRITORY
Darwin
Ph (08) 8948 4043
NEW ZEALAND
Newmarket - Auckland
Ph (09) 377 6421
Glenfield - Auckland
Ph (09) 444 4628
Wellington
Ph (04) 801 9005
Christchurch Ph (03) 379 1662
Freecall Orders Ph 0800 452 9227
Driveway Automatic Entry Sensor Kit
Component to RGB Converter Kit
IR Remote Control Tester Kit
Includes auxiliary output!
Ref: Silicon Chip January 2005. An invaluable
addition to your collection of test equipment. Now
you can quickly test any IR remote control to see if it
is working. It lights an LED and sounds a
buzzer when an IR
code is detected. It
also features an
output for further
analysis on an
oscilloscope.
Kit supplied with PCB,
Cat. KC-5407
$
.95
case and all electronic components.
USB Power Injector Kit
A power boost for
your USB port.
Ref: SC Oct 2004. This
project allows full current
to be drawn from USB
peripheral devices. Kit
includes PCB, case,
silk screened and
punched panels, and all
electronic components.
Cat. KC-5399
$
.95
29
IR Remote Control Receiver Kit
for PCs
Control your PCs music or video
player with a standard remote!
It works with popular DVD and MP3
software. Kit includes
PCB, and all electronic
components.
Cat. KC-5366
$
.95
39
Valve Audio Preamp Kit
Experience the warmth from
a valve preamplifier!
Ref: SC Nov 03, Feb 04.
Valve amplifiers
are said to have a
‘warmer’ sound
that transistor
counterparts.
Now you can
find out for yourself.
Includes PCBs, case, 12AX7WA
valve, bobbin, core and clips, and all
electronic components.
Cat. KC-5370
$
.95
Second Channel
Valve AddOn Kit
89
Make it a
stereo
pre-amp.
Powered by the power
Cat. KC-5371
supply in KC-5370.
$
.95
Includes PCB, valve, and
all electronic components.
59
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
PRODUCT SHOWCASE
Make your own Xpert DVD movies with Jaycar
The vast majority of computers these days
come with a DVD
burner. Most also
include low-end
DVD copying or
burning software
but not much else.
If you have a digital source, they’re
so easy to use!
But what happens if you want to, say, transfer some
of your (analog) VHS or super-8 movies
onto a DVD? Perhaps archive other
analog material onto a DVD?
Enter this new product from Jaycar
Electronics, the Xpert DVD maker. It’s
an analog/digital capture card which
lets you capture video from VHS, V8,
Hi8 and so on and burn to DVD, VCD
or SVCD formats – in PAL or even
in NTSC if you want to send a video
overseas.
The decoder is 10-bit, so you can
expect very high quality transfers.
The external video input is either
composite or S-video format and
it features direct
burning – there’s
no need to save
to your hard disk
drive first.
Both DVD+ and
DVD– and VR disks
are supported.
The pack contains a standard
PCI card, a video/
audio converter
cable and an installation CD-ROM and manual.
The software is Power Producer
2 Gold, which features playlist authoring, DivX movide production,
user-created dynamic Motion Menus,
Audio Overlay (in WAV or MP3 format)
and simultaneous multiple capture
device connection. Xpert DVD maker
is available from all Jaycar Electronics
stores for $149.00 (Cat XC4811).
Contact:
Jaycar Electronics
PO Box 6424, Silverwater NSW 1811.
Tel: 1800 022 888 Fax: (02) 9741 8500
Website: www.jaycar.com.au
Microzed delighted at Picaxe Fair response
Microzed’s Bob Nicol was over the
moon at the response to the inaugural
“Picaxe Fair” held in Sydney during
December.
A steady stream of visitors viewed
the various projects and exhibitions
during the day, many taking the opportunity to talk to “Mr Picaxe”, Clive
Seager, of Revolution Electronics (UK)
who made the trip to Sydney especially for the fair.
Also visiting Sydney for the fair
was a name familiar to SILICON CHIP
readers, Stan Swan, of Massey University in Wellington, NZ. Now many
readers will be able to put a face to
the name!
The photo above right shows Stan
(at rear) examining one very interesting displays, a Picaxe-controlled pedestrian crossing light control system
completely designed, coded and consiliconchip.com.au
DSE Glow-in-the-dark
USB mousepad
Computers with tricked-up lights are
nothing new. Neon tubes, coloured fans
(even multicoloured fans), glowing cases
. . . you name it, it’s been done.
Even the humble mouse is available in
lit and glowing variants. Now it’s the turn
of the mouse mat. Gone are the days when
just about any mouse mat will do: you
need one of these shmick-looking mats
from Dick Smith Electronics!
It plugs into any USB port (so it’s just as
good for notebooks as it is for desktops)
and has a deep blue glow which looks
really neat in a darkened room. A dial sets
the brightness level you want.
The Flexiglow Raider Game Pad (ooh,
sorry for calling it a mouse mat) is available from DSE stores, dealers and web
for $39.96 (Cat Z-8400).
Contact:
Dick Smith Electronics (all stores)
Reply Paid 500, PO Box 500,
Regents Park DC NSW 2143.
Tel: 1300 366 644 Fax: (02) 9642 9155
Website: www.dse.com.au
TOROIDAL POWER
TRANSFORMERS
structed by year 11 students from East
Hills Girls Technology High School.
We plan to have more to say about
the girls and their projects in a forthcoming issue of SILICON CHIP .
Contact:
MicroZed
PO Box 634, Armidale NSW 2350
Tel: (02) 6772 2777 Fax: (02) 6772 8987
Website: www.microzed.com.au
Manufactured in Australia
Comprehensive data available
Harbuch Electronics Pty Ltd
9/40 Leighton Pl. HORNSBY 2077
Ph (02) 9476-5854 Fx (02) 9476-3231
January 2005 57
Oatley’s Bargain Bin
Battery/Charger Deal
Here’s another one of those
bargains that Oatley Electronics’
Branko Justic has become famous
for.
It’s a package containing a
microprocessor-controlled AC/DC
battery charger – new in original
carton with full instructions (and
also including notes to modify for
different voltages). It was designed
to correctly charge & discharge 4.8V,
6.0V & 7.2V NI-Cd & NI-MH mobile
phone batteries from a 12V-24V DC
input.
Supplied with a 12V 1A AC plugpack and car adaptor lead, it would
normally be very good value for the
asking price of $20.00.
But wait, there’s more: Branko is
also throwing in ten Toshiba NiMH
battery packs, each one containing
four 800mAh NIMH cells, “AA”
in length but “AAA” in diameter
– fantastic for experimenters and
powering projects. (Some of the
loose packs can be seen at the front
of the photo aboe).
So you get the whole lot for just
$20.00 – while they last! (Cat no
ZA0100PK).
Contact:
Oatley Electronics
PO Box 89, Oatley NSW 2223
Tel: (02) 9584 3565 Fax: (02) 9584 3561
Website: www.oatleyelectronics.com
Very clever remote
controls from Altronics
In amongst the large
range of infrared remote controls in the
Altronics range is this
learning model with an
LCD touchscreen.It’s
just right for home theatre systems or to replace
those scads of remote
controls you have for the
TV, Video, DVD, Amplifier, CD, air conditioner
. . . in fact, up to sixteen
different devices
It is claimed to be the
fastest universal learning remote, with pre-programs to cover
many applications plus an intuitive
learning system for the rest. It’s priced
at $249 (Cat A0900).
Contact:
Altronics
PO Box 8350, Perth Business Centre 6849
Tel: 1300 797007 Fax: (08) 9428 2187
Website: www.altronics.com.au
Tel: (03) 9434 3806 Fax: (03) 9011 6220
Email: sales2004<at>ozitronics.com
USB ICSP Flash PIC Programmer
Fully assembled –
just plug in IC and
cable. USB powered.
Includes nylon standoffs to protect the
underside. USB 'B'
female connector.
K182 Size: 48 x 30mm.
$61.60
Prices include GST – shipping extra.
Full documentation available from website.
Over 130 kits available – check website.
Don’t forget the
Central Coast Field Day!
It promises to be bigger and better than ever: Australia’s largest
amateur radio exhibition and sale
of new and used radio and communications gear.
As usual, it’s on at Wyong Race
Course, Sunday February 20, from
8.30am.
More information is available
from CCARC on 02 4340 2500, or
www.ccarc.org.au
Air-band receiver from Av-Comm
When not into the latest satellite gear, Avcomm’s Garry Cratt
keeps his eye open for other interesting tidbits.
This new Decom AR108A VHF communications scanner is one such
example.
It offers aircraft band
(108-137MHz) and marine, commercial, weather, amateur and similar
bands (135-180MHz)
SILICON CHIP
WebLINK
How many times have you wanted to access a company’s
website but cannot remember their site name?
Here's an exciting new concept from SILICON CHIP: you
can access any of these organisations instantly by going to
the SILICON CHIP website (siliconchip.com.au), clicking on
WebLINK and then on the website graphic of the company
you’re looking for. It’s that simple.
58
Silicon
58 S
ilicon C
Chip
hip
Ozitronics
www.ozitronics.com
with up to 99 memories and advanced
scanning options. It operates from two
AA cells or external 7-20V DC.
Small enough to fit into the palm
of your hand (or shirt pocket) at 57 x
80 x 25mm it retails for just $139.00,
exclusively from Av-Comm.
Contact:
Av-Comm
PO Box 525, Brookvale NSW 2100
Tel: (02) 9939 4377 Fax: (02) 9939 4376
Website: www.avcomm.com.au
We specialise in providing a range of
Low Power Radio solutions for OEM’s to
incorporate in their wireless technology
based products. The innovative range
includes products from MK Consultants, the
world-renowned specialist manufacturer.
TeleLink Communications
Tel:(07) 4934 0413 Fax: (07) 4934 0311
WebLINK: telelink.com.au
A 100% Australian owned company supplying
frequency control products to the highest
international standards: filters, DIL’s, voltage,
temperature compensated and oven controlled
oscillators, monolithic and discrete filters and
ceramic filters and resonators.
Hy-Q International Pty Ltd
Tel:(03) 9562-8222 Fax: (03) 9562 9009
WebLINK: www.hy-q.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
World’s smallest claim with a grain of salt?
The world’s smallest microcontroller, the PIC10F206 chip created by
Microchip Technology, is now available from Farnell InOne.
These revolutionary 6-pin flash devices provide ideal solutions in many
markets not previously served by microcontrollers, such as easy bug fixes
for ASIC and printed circuit board
designs, replacing standard logic and
timing components, or traditional
mechanical timers and switches.
Microchip’s PICmicro MCU family has long offered solutions for the
broadest range of microcontroller applications.
The development time for a microcontroller-based system is faster and
easier than designing an entirely new
ASIC or PCB. By including the low-cost
PIC10F 6-pin devices in a PCB design
from the start, bugs, late changes and
other measures can be implemented
with ease and little expense for ASICs,
the board and for a number of other
devices on the board.
Contact:
Farnell InOne
PMB 6, Chester Hill NSW 2162
Tel: 1300 361 005 (NZ 0800 90 80 80)
Website: www.farnellinone.com
Multisim 8 released
Multisim, the world’s most popular,
cost-effective and easy-to-use simulation software is now the most powerful
circuit simulation system available.
Multisim 8 takes advantage of today’s higher performing computers
and modern software architecture.
This saves designers thousands of
mouse clicks and allows a design to
be captured almost as fast as it can be
conceptualized.
In Electronics Workbench’s benchmark studies, Multisim 8 provides
an almost 50% time savings for the
existing 160,000 Multisim users. For
engineers not simulating their designs
or for those using more cumbersome
tools, Multisim 8 reduces their creation time even more substantially.
Multisim 8 includes “real” Virtual
Penguin Micro Data
Logger
The Penguin series of Micro
Data Loggers are ground-breaking
portable instruments designed for
temperature and humidity measurements and storage.
A unique feature is the built-in
infrared (IR) communication interface, leaving behind cables and
accessories. Through this, the user
can easily configure the application
and download stored data from the
logger to portable devices, compatible with Palm-OS or Windows.
The datalogger has a temperature
sensor accuracy of ±1ºC and the
optional humidity sensor is accurate
to ±3%.
Reading resolution is 12 bits or
4000 levels at intervals from 1 second to 18 hours.
The transparent, 45 x 60 x 20mm
polycarbonate case is protected to
IP65.
The Penguin can be configured using the included Palm O/S software
or an infrared wand connected to the
PC’s USB port.
Instruments from Tektronix. Before
Multisim 8, engineers waited until a
design was completely manufactured
before beginning to test their prototype
board.
Contact:
Contact:
PO Box 15, Camperdown NSW 1450
Tel: (02) 9519 3933 Fax: (02) 9559 1378
Website: www.emona.com.au
4 Ferguson Dr, Balnarring Vic 3926.
Tel: (03) 5983 1163
Website: www.oceancontrols.com.au
Emona Instruments Pty Ltd
Ocean Controls
This valuable
WebLINK
Space for Rent!
siliconchip.com.au
Our website is updated daily, with over
5,500 products available through our
secure online ordering facility.
Features include semiconductor data
sheets, media releases, software
downloads, and much more
JAYCAR
JAYCAR ELECTRONICS
ELECTRONICS
Tel: 1800 022 888
Tel: 1800 022 888
WebLINK:
WebLINK: www.jaycar.com.au
www.jaycar.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
JED designs and manufactures a range of
single board computers (based on Wilke Tiger
and Atmel AVR), as well as LCD displays and
analog and digital I/O for PCs and controllers.
JED also makes a PC PROM programmer
and RS232/RS485 converters.
Jed Microprocessors Pty Ltd
Tel: (03) 9762 3588 Fax: (03) 9762 5499
WebLINK: jedmicro.com.au
Want to be NOTICED? Without
costing you a fortune?
To reserve your place in
SILICON CHIP WebLINK,
email
BENEDICTUS SMITH
Pty Ltd
info<at>benedictus-smith.com
December
anuary2004 59
2005
59
JJanuary
2005 59
Here’s a project ANYONE can build . . .
4-Minute
Shower
Timer
With most of Australia still gripped by drought
(ie, save water you lot!) and energy costs steadily
increasing (ie, save hot water you lot!) every little bit
helps. Here’s a timer that will automatically prompt
(shame?) you into taking shorter showers!
Words by Ross Tester
60 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
New VAF speakers
not just for
audio perfectionists
VAF Speakers have a legendary
reputation for providing the
best accuracy and value.
They are also available as kits
because we know that’s the
way enthusiasts like them.
VAF’s brand new Generation 4
DC-Series is now available and
offers extreme levels of
accuracy at incredible prices.
They go very deep so they can
be used for Home Theatre
without a subwoofer in many
rooms. They are very sensitive
so they don’t need big
expensive amps to drive them.
They can take high power so if
you have a huge room or
simply want to play loud, you
can. They also work well close
to walls so you can use them in
small rooms too.
G
one are the days when we can
afford to luxuriate under a hot
shower for hours on end. Well,
maybe the showers weren’t quite that
long but most people are used to taking
showers in the tens of minutes.
It’s easy to lose track of time in the
shower. And it does feel nice.
That’s a luxury that’s no longer
economically nor ecologically sustainable. First of all, we’re short of water.
In most areas of Australia the powersthat-be keep telling us if we don’t be
good boys and girls and cut our water
usage then we are going to run out.
(Those same powers [read politicians] that keep blaming us wasteful
consumers don’t mention that for the
most part water shortages are their
fault, because they haven’t invested
the necessary dollars in water infrastructure while population has
steadily increased for much of the last
half century. But let’s not get into that
argument. At least not right now . . .)
Second, we’re short of electric
power. The power that goes to heat
the water is also in very short supsiliconchip.com.au
ply. Load shedding (ie, blackouts!) is
becoming more and more common as
supply authorities attempt to cut peak
loads. Those same powers-that-be
keep telling us that if we don’t reduce
our consumption of power, it’s going
to get worse.
(Those same powers [read politicians] that keep blaming us wasteful
consumers, etc etc etc . . .)
Putting aside all the scare-mongering that’s going on in political
circles (my spell checker wanted to
change that to circuses, which would
be perhaps more apt) it really does
make sense for us, as consumers, to
try to save both water and power – if
only because that means less of our
hard-earned dollars will end up in
Government coffers.
One way to do both, of course, is
to take shorter showers. How short?
VAF Speakers are used by the
ABC, Parliament House in
Canberra, and in preparation
of many international DVD
titles in Australia....
You can use them too.
Buy direct from the people
who make them, and for less
than you may think.
4 new kits from $449pr to
$1,999pr. If you want instant
results, fully assembled
versions are also available.
For Info or to Order
FreeCall 1 8 0 0 8 1 8 8 8 2
email vaf<at>vaf.com.au
www.vaf.com.au
The 4-minute shower
Believe it or not, it is entirely possible to take a shower in four minutes
– including, if you need to, washing
your hair. In fact, without shampooing,
January 2005 61
Parts list – Shower timer
1 pre-assembled PC board
1 2-part plastic case
1 self-adhesive foam “donut”
1 self-adhesive foam rectangle
2 suction caps
1 9V battery (preferably alkaline)
The PC board is supplied completed and tested – just as well, because soldering
those surface-mount devices can be a pain! The white object at the right side is
the foam gasket which virtually covers the piezo transducer.
a sub-three-minute shower is perfectly
practical. People in the bush who don’t
have the luxury of hot water have been
“getting” that sort of shower for years:
get in, get wet, get clean, get out!
Let’s face it – all you really need to
do is get wet, soap up and rinse off. Get
wet: 30 seconds. Soap up: 60 seconds.
Rinse off: 60 seconds. That’s two and a
half minutes. Add another 60 seconds
to shampoo your hair and there’s your
four minute shower – with 30 seconds
left over for good measure.
OK, if you agree that four minutes
is enough time, how do you go about
convincing everyone in your family?
The ST4 Shower Timer
This rather ingenious (and patented)
design is completely automatic, turning on about 20-30 seconds after it
“hears” the first “sssshhh” of the
shower – giving you enough time to
adjust the water temperature – then
beeping each minute up to the magic
four minutes, at which time it sounds
an alarm.
The alarm stops when you turn the
shower off. But if you try to fool it by
turning the shower off for a moment
and then back on again, the alarm
will start back up again. It resets after
about a minute of no-shower-sound,
ready for the next person to take their
shower.
Part of the secret to this circuit is
the use of the piezo buzzer: it is not
only sounds the beep/alarm, as you
would expect but it is also used as a
“microphone” to pick up the splash
sound.
There’s no on-off switch; it simply
operates when it hears the shower
turn on (listening for the distinctive
splashing sounds of the water). There
is an internal 3-position switch and
preset pot which are adjusted to give
the desired sensitivity – once set, you
can forget it.
There are also pots to control clock
frequency and tone of alarm – but these
are set in the factory and should not
need touching.
It’s operated by a 9V battery (alkaline preferred) which should last
for at least 12 months. Current drain,
when ready to operate but inactive, is
comparable to that of a smoke detector
– around 10-15mA.
The circuit, including the piezo, is
housed on a single PC board which
fits (along with the 9V battery) into
a purpose-designed two-part case.
When correctly assembled is quite
waterproof. Mounted on the shower
wall it allows shower sound to enter
and beeps/alarm to escape without the
circuit getting at all damp.
The case, as we said, is in two parts.
These snap together to form a nice,
tight seal around the PC board, with
alignment of the two parts taken care
of by pins and holes which mate.
Each half of the case is fitted with a
suction cap which allows the unit to
mount to any smooth shower wall (or
even a glass screen).
While the ST4 Shower Timer is
available fully built and tested, we are
more interested in it as a kit which you
assemble yourself.
Even here, most of the hard work
And here’s how it slots together. The piezo transducer (with its gasket) is right down in the bottom of the case, with the
PC board slotted into the guides. The top half of the case has two pins which mate with the moulding on the bottom. Note
that we have not yet fitted the suction cap to the top half of the case so that you can see where it slides into place.
62 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
January 2005 63
CLOCK
FREQ.
VR1 100k
680k
220nF
SC
2005
TP5
TP4
TP3
8
Vss
34Hz
Ctc
Rtc
O9
O11
O12
O13
15
1
2
3
IC2d
12
13
220nF
7
5
4
6
14
1.5 – 2.2 µF
11
12
MR
O3
O4
O5
O6
O7
IC4
13
O8
4060B
Vdd
16
SHOWER TIMER
9
10
Rs
680k
11
NOTE: TP1 – TP2 AND
TP4 – TP5 ARE LINKED
AFTER PRODUCTION
TESTING
TP2
TP1
47nF
240k
IC1
PIN14
TP11
+3V
IC2a
4
3
13
10M
6
5
A
TP7
10
IC2b
14
4
7
IC2c
+9V
5
8
9
TP6
IC3c
470k
6
33k
K
A
4.7M
Q1
BC849C
TP8
E
C
D1
BAS16
B
7
IC5b
10M
2
8
220nF
1
4.7M
4.7M
1nF
+9V
9
TP9
5
TP13
6
7
IC1b
10M
10M
6
5
TONE
FREQ
IC5a
680k
4
3
14
TP14
2
1
1nF
A
2
BAS16
A6
IC3f
390pF
13
K
S1
SPLASH
SOUND
SENSITIVITY
TP10
IC1a
1nF
240k
VR2
100k
1
IC3a
12
2.2k
IC1, IC3: 4069UB
IC2:
4093B
IC5:
4023B
IC3e
68k
33k
33k
14
B
7
IC3d
VR3
100k
9
11
E
2C
C
PIEZO
SENSOR/
BUZZER
BC849C
8
10
The piezo transducer (far right side of circuit) has a dual role of both sensor and alarm, with IC1a, b and Q1
amplifying the signal picked up. The rest of the circuit mainly consists of timers to set up the various alarm
periods plus oscillators to make the noise. IC3d, e and f form an amplifier to drive the piezo transducer.
10M
K
10
TP15
220nF
IC5c
D2 BAS16
START BEEP
MODULATOR
2
1
4.7M
3
IC3b
11
12
220nF
+9V
Turn the radio on and the timer
should give a chirping sound after
20-30 seconds (that’s the water temperature adjustment period). Then it
should beep after each minute from
there, with a series of beeps (7.5 seconds on, 7.5 seconds off) at the end of
four minutes.
Turn the radio off and the timer
should reset.
Mounting in the shower
Here’s how to identify the top and bottom of the case. The bottom is facing
towards the camera with the slots for the piezo transducer clearly seen. Again,
the suction cap has not yet been fitted to the top section.
– soldering the surface-mount components and ICs – is already done for
you. In fact, as supplied, the PC board
is built and tested, ready for you to
put together
Putting it together
Assembly is as simple as removing
the backing and the centre from the
self-adhesive “donut” foam ring and
sticking it, as central as possible, onto
the piezo transducer. Then similarly
stick the rectangular foam pad onto
the back of the PC board (it keeps the
battery snug while preventing it shorting to or across the board), then push
the PC board into the bottom half of
the case.
The bottom half can be identified
by the slots for the transducer. When
the board is pushed fully home, the
foam donut “gasket” provides a seal
in a moulded housing inside the case,
preventing any water entering the case
– theoretically even if dunked.
We say theoretically because it is
designed that way – but commonsense
would suggest you don’t try to prove
it. Because the transducer slots are at
the bottom of the case, spray would
have to be travelling upwards to enter
– possible, of course.
But the foam donut stops this water
going any further. While the transducer itself is not sealed, its internal
construction means that it is also an
effective water barrier, so with the sealing donut in place, spray cannot enter
64 Silicon Chip
the case nor either around or through
the transducer.
All this means that the shower timer
is for all intents and purposes waterproof, especially from spray.
Once the PC board has been pushed
home, the battery can be connected
and slid down into the case, alongside the (now insulated) back of the
PC board. It should be a relatively
snug fit.
In the unlikely event that the suction
caps have come off the case halves in
transit, simply slide them back into
their respective slots on each end – the
photos show where they go.
Slide the two halves of the case
together, ensuring that the channels
which hold the suction caps line up
exactly – the pins in one half won’t
mate if they don’t. The two case halves
should “snap” together and that completes construction.
Testing
If you don’t want to get wet, you
can use a small unmuted FM radio,
off-station, to simulate the sound of
a shower. (If your FM radio mutes
automatically, or the mute cannot be
turned off, this option won’t work.
You’ll need to check it in situ – in the
shower!)
The FM radio will produce predominantly white noise, which is fairly
close to the sound of a shower stream
striking the bottom of the shower or
bath.
The timer always mounts vertically,
with the piezo transducer towards the
bottom. The suction caps should stick
very well to any ceramic tile, glass or
other smooth surface – if necessary,
give ’em a lick first!
Best position for the timer is about
300-400mm from the floor but it
should work reasonably well up to
about waist height.
If you need to mount the unit higher
than this, or if it doesn’t appear to be
sensitive enough, open it up and slide
the switch up one notch. Don’t mount
any higher than necessary. In some
very low volume showers, (eg some
gravity feeds), you might need to adjust
the sensitivity right up but this would
normally be unlikely.
You should not need to adjust any
of the pots – they are preset on factory
assembly.
Once mounted, give it another run,
this time with the shower. It should
perform in the same way as it did in
your “white noise” test.
The only time you should need to
remove the unit from the wall is to
replace the battery and this could be
up to a couple of years or so! Don’t pull
on the timer to remove it, slide a knife
or some other thin, flat object under the
suction caps to break the seal.
SC
Where from, how much?
The TD4 Shower Timer is available
from Gum Leaf Energy Saving Systems Pty Ltd, 26 Park St, Seaford,
Vic 3198. Tel/Fax (03) 9776 8703;
email glesstron<at>msn.com
The kit price (with pre-assembled
and tested PC board) is $24.50 plus
p&p, while a fully built and tested
version is $35.00.
Pack and post, for up to four units,
is $6.90.
The battery is not included with
either kit.
siliconchip.com.au
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01-05
Wanna go prawning this summer? You’ll need our
PRAWNLITE
You can pay twenty or thirty bucks a kilo at a fish shop. Or you can
have fun and go prawning yourself. All you need is a dark night, a
suitable lake, lagoon or inlet, a prawn net and a light to attract the
little beggars . . .
P
rawning is fun. And gastronomically rewarding! It’s best done
when the moon is new – the
darker the night the better.
It’s also best done during summer.
Not only are there more likely to be
prawns around (always a good start!)
but you don’t freeze the proverbials
off in cold water!
How do you prawn?
If you’re anywhere around coastal
lakes, inlets or lagoons during the
darker nights of summer, you’re likely
to see people with bright lights and big
nets wandering around the shallows.
Almost certainly, they’re prawning.
66 Silicon Chip
The bright lights attract the prawns
(and also allow you to see ’em, which
is not easy!) and you simply scoop
them up with your prawn net. When
you’ve got enough, you take them
home, boil them for a few minutes and
enjoy your prawn feast.
Well, that’s the theory anyway. The
execution – or reality – might be a bit
different.
(a) there might be no, or very few,
prawns running in the water you’re
Design by Branko Justic
Words by Ross Tester
prawning (technically known as too
high a water:prawn ratio).
(b) you might prawn all night and
end up with not even enough to fill
one hand. (Yeah, speaking from experience here!).
(c) the bloke next to you might end
up with all your prawns ’cos he has a
better prawn light (or he knows what
he’s doing!).
(d) a myriad of other excuses reasons, not unrelated to other forms
of fishing (too moonlit/too wet/too
dry/too cold/too hot/too windy/not
enough wind/wrong tide/etc).
To save face, you call in at the local fish’n’chip shop on the way home.
siliconchip.com.au
(Two tips: buy green prawns. Everyone
will know you’re cheating if you come
home with cooked ones! And for heaven’s sake, lose the wrapping paper).
Attracting (raw) prawns
In times past, most prawners used a
hurricane lamp or gas-powered light
to attract the prawns.
That’s fine, except you can’t put
them under water. And, surprising
as it might seem, that’s where the
prawns are.
What you need is a bright light
which can go under the water surface
– not deep, just enough to spot the
prawns. Generally you’d prawn in
water that’s well under a metre deep
anyway – maybe 300-500mm.
More recently, a lot of prawners have
used waterproof high-power torches.
They work but can be back-breaking.
Or they use a commercial prawn
light. There are many available these
days, most operating from a battery
siliconchip.com.au
(usually a rechargeable) which you
wear in a belt pack.
There are some high power ones
using QI (halogen) bulbs which work
very well but tend to flatten the battery
too quickly.
Commercial prawn lights aren’t
cheap. But with the rather dramatic
reduction in the price of ultrabright
white LEDs in recent months, we
figured they would be a proposition.
As well as bright, they’re efficient,
not wasting too much energy as heat.
So they will give your battery a lot
better run for its money (or charge).
Our Prawnlite
The circuit is pretty simple. A 1kW
resistor (R17) biases three diodes (D1,
D2 & D3) to provide a voltage reference
of about 1.8V. This is fed to the base
of transistor Q17 which is connected
as an emitter follower. Its output
becomes a 1.2V driver to the bases
of the 16 transistors, all of which are
connected as constant current drivers,
each with a load of three LEDs (16 x
3 = 48 LEDs). The constant current
transistors each apply 0.6V to their
33W emitter resistors, resulting in a
LED current of about 18mA.
The LEDs are arranged on a circular
PC board which itself fits into a waterproof glass jar, shining through the
bottom. Presto, one very bright white
light which can go underwater.
Such a light is not just limited
to prawning. If you’re looking for
a general-purpose 12V bright light
(perhaps for camping, etc) then this
would be a beauty.
You could use it for prawning, then
for cooking, then for eating back at
camp!
Half or full power?
The PC board has been arranged so
that you can build the Prawnlite as
either half-power or full power, simply by choosing the number of LED
January 2005 67
Here’s a close-up view of the Prawnlite in
its Salsa Dip container. As you can see,
there is plenty of clearance for the PC board
in this particular jar.
strings you install. In fact, two kits of
parts are available which reflect this
flexibility.
The first kit contains the PC board
and half the LEDs, transistors and
resistors, along with the reference voltage components, allowing you to build
it in that format if you wish. Needless
to say, that’s the economy route.
The second kit contains the remaining LEDs, transistors and resistors
which, when added to the first kit,
enable the full power version to be
built.
As all LED/transistor/resistor
strings are identical, if you build the
half-power version you can choose
which areas of the PC board you
populate, as long as the trios of LEDs
and their associated transistor and resistor are kept together (ie, LEDs 1,2,3;
25,26,27; etc).
The components to the left of the
LED strings, the constant current
circuit, remain the same regardless of
how many LEDs are fitted.
From here on, though, we’ll assume
you are building the complete kit containing 48 LEDs.
The battery
The Prawnlite draws around 290mA
from a 12V supply so there shouldn’t
be too much worry about quickly flattening your battery.
It is designed to run off one of the
medium-sized 12V SLA batteries –
which, of course, could be charged via
a suitable charger from a car battery
when mobile.
(Such a charger was described in
SILICON CHIP in July 1996). Or perhaps
you could use a solar charger – again,
we’ve described one of those in March
2002.
A typical 7Ah SLA, fully charged,
should give more than 20 hours of light
before needing a recharge.
You could run the Prawnlite from
smaller than a 7Ah battery – and that
would mean significantly less weight
to carry, particularly when you’re
standing out in the water. Smaller
SLAs are also generally cheaper.
You could even run this from a bank
of NiCads or NiMH cells (perhaps even
inside the handle?), bearing in mind
that 290mA drain.
Most commercial electric prawn
lights use a battery mounted in a
purpose-built belt. We suggest a battery in a bum bag would be just as
effective – and a lot cheaper!
Just make sure you don’t get the
battery wet – salt water and batteries
do not make good bedmates!
And one more thought: you could
even make up a battery using highcapacity AA cells (say 2 x 10 in series)
48 ultrabright white LEDs shine through the bottom of the
glass jar. It’s not just a prawnlite – this also makes a dandy
general-purpose 12V light as well!
68 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
all around the cable hole (inside and out) and the screw
holes. In fact, the sealant also acts as an adhesive and takes
some of the stress off the bolts and nuts.
Construction
E
B
C
C8050
R16
Q16
λ
L48
λ
L45
siliconchip.com.au
A
1N4148
A
K
Three diodes and Q17 provide constant voltage drive
to the bases of 16 transistors, assuring constant current
drive to the 16 banks of LEDs.
SC
2005
DIODES: 3 x 1N4148
D3
BLACK
CLIP
LEAD
22nF
PRAWNLITE
RESISTORS: 16 x 33 Ω
TRANSISTORS: 17 x C8050
R1
Q1
22nF
D2
K
D1
A
12V
1kΩ
(R17)
RED
CLIP
LEAD
Same-size
component
overlay. Note
the green
resistor in the
middle of the
PC board. It’s the
only one which isn’t
33W!
LED
LEDS: 48 x ULTRABRIGHT WHITE, 5mm
λ
L39
λ
L33
λ
L30
λ
L27
λ
L24
λ
L21
λ
L18
λ
L15
λ
L12
λ
L9
λ
L6
λ
L3
E
Q17
B
C
λ
L36
λ
L38
L35
λ
λ
L32
λ
L29
λ
L26
L23
λ
λ
L20
λ
L17
λ
L14
L11
λ
λ
L8
λ
L5
L2
λ
K
λ
λ
λ
λ
λ
λ
λ
λ
λ
λ
λ
λ
λ
L31
L28
L25
L22
L19
L16
L13
L10
As mentioned before, the Prawnlite is designed to fit inside a glass jar. The particular glass jar we used originally
contained Dorito’s salsa dip – a semi-liquid, so we knew
that the jar would be waterproof. It’s made that way by a
gasket incorporated into the screw lid.
The jar measures about 87mm (OD) x 75mm (outside
height). Of course, you could use other similar-sized jars
but make sure that (a) the PC board assembly will fit (the PC
board is 65mm diameter) and (b) that it can actually hold
water; that is, a gasket of some sort must be incorporated
into the lid to seal against the glass jar.
What complicates the issue a little is that we need to
supply power to the PC board, which necessitates drilling a hole in the lid. We also wanted to fit a handle to the
jar so it could be used like a wand. This also necessitated
drilling a couple of holes for bolts and nuts to hold the
handle in place.
We overcame both these problems through the liberal
use of silicone sealant,
L7
Waterproofing
L4
that fitted inside the handle. Now that would be clever!
A L1
Straight-on view of
the completed PC
board mounted on
the glass jar lid. As
you can see, it works!
L34
L37
K
λ
L42
L47
λ
λ
L44
L41
λ
λ
λ
λ
L40
L43
L46
Start by checking the PC board for any defects. They’re very
rare these days but a quick check now can save a lot of head
scratching when something doesn’t work as it should.
January 2005 69
GLU
Parts list – Prawnlite
Semiconductors
48 ultrabright white 5mm LEDs (L1-L48)
17 C8050 NPN transistors (Q1-Q17)
3 1N4148 silicon diodes (D1-D3)
Capacitors
2 22nF MKT
Resistors (0.25W, 5%)
1 1kW
16 33W
K217
FOAM
LID
FOAM
GLASS JAR
DLE”
Making the “container”
This is probably the most difficult section because you
have to be 100% sure that the final thing is waterproof.
The handle is made from a short length of 20mm PVC
electrical conduit (25mm would also be fine). The end of
the conduit is cut on a shallow angle to allow it to mount
flush with the lid (see diagram at left).
Two holes are drilled through the conduit, with matching
holes in the lid, for the stainless steel nuts and bolts which
hold the conduit to the lid. A separate hole is drilled in the
lid for the power leads. These then progess up the conduit
handle, to emerge at the top end, thence to the battery via
a pair of crocodile clips.
SILICONE
Finally, liberal amounts of silicone sealant are used to
SEALANT cover the conduit-to-lid join and over the tops of the stainAS GLUE less steel bolts. The same sealant is used at the top of the
(OR HOT
handle, not only making the conduit top waterproof (it will,
MELT
at some time, receive a dunking no matter how careful you
GLUE)
are!) but also making the power leads captive.
It’s probably best to work on the lid assembly first as
ENSURE this must be right!
Cut the conduit to a suitable length (ours was a tad over
SEAL IS
INTACT
IN LID
You’ll find it easiest to populate and solder the PC board
by working from the middle out – so start with the four
diodes, transistor Q17, the two capacitors and then all the
resistors. All components mount as hard down onto the
PC board as they will go. By the way, by some quirk the
three diodes on the prototype PC board were labelled D6,
D5 and D7 instead of D1, D2 and D3. We’re assured that
production PC boards will be labelled correctly.
To make it easy for you, we’ve coloured green the only
1kW resistor (labelled R17) on the component overlay. Put
this one in first, then you can’t make a mistake with the
rest – they’re all 33W!
Next, fit all the remaining transistors. All face the same
direction around the ring – the flat side is clockwise.
Solder these in place, taking care with bridges between
close pads.
Finally, it’s time for the LEDs. Unlike the transistors,
70 Silicon Chip
there is no consistency to LED direction. Take
careful note of the overlay and the overlay also
printed on the top side of the PC board. If you
get any LED wrong, the other two in its string
will also not work.
Give your finished board the once-over and if
you’re happy with the component placement and
soldering, temporarily connect the two power leads.
These solder underneath the board – take care with
the polarity!
Connect the red and black to your 12V battery or
power source, obviously red to +ve and black to –ve.
Assuming it works – ie, all LEDs light up – you can
disconnect and unsolder them. Incidentally, don’t look
directly into the LEDs because they are so bright, they
will dazzle you.
HAN
CON
DUIT
“
PVC
1 PC board, 65mm diameter, code
K217 (Oatley Electronics)
1 small glass waterproof jar with lid
(with sealing gasket to make
waterproof) – around 85mm diameter
x 75mm high
1 12V SLA battery
OR
1 12V NiCad or NiMH battery
3m length polarised Figure-8 cable
OR
2 lengths 3m red and black hookup
wire, twisted together
1 red crocodile (alligator) battery clip
1 black crocodile (alligator) battery clip
Silicone sealant
E
TO 12V SLA
BATTERY
(BELT PACK)
The completed assembly immediately before it goes into its
glass jar “case”. The “HOT” salsa is entirely optional . . .
we wonder how it would taste with prawns?
siliconchip.com.au
A further two shots of the top of the Prawnlite showing
how the conduit is shaped, then screwed and glued to the
top of the lid. Make sure it’s thoroughly waterproofed with
silicone sealant or hot melt glue . . . or both!
1m which is about right for an average-height adult. For a
child it would want to be somewhere about 650-750mm)
and then cut one end at a suitable angle (the drawing at
left should give you a good idea of this).
Drill two 3mm holes through the conduit at about 12mm
and 72mm from the end, with matching holes in the top
of the lid. The stainless steel screws we used had countersunk heads – if yours do, carefully countersink the holes
in the conduit. Drill an additional hole in the lid right in
the centre – this one should be larger, say about 5-6mm,
to suit the power leads you use. The power leads should
be able to pass through easily.
Pass your power lead through the conduit from the square
(top) end, leaving about 100mm protruding from the anglecut end. That means the bulk of the power leads emerge
from the top end. Solder a pair of crocodile clips (red and
black) to the far ends of the red and black power leads.
Now pass the power lead through the hole you drilled
in the lid and fasten the angle-cut end of the conduit to the
lid with the two screws. Tighten the nuts and then apply
generous dollops of silicone sealant or hot melt glue onto
the lid, right around the edges of the conduit. Make sure
all parts of the join are well sealed.
Also apply some silicone to the underside of the lid, over
the tops of the two nuts and bolts and, if you wish, to the
point where the power leads come through.
Also fill in the top end of the conduit with silicone sealant or hot melt and leave to dry.
Mounting the PC board
While that’s happening, let’s look at mounting the PC
board.
Naturally, it needs to sit so that the LEDs shine out
through the bottom of the jar. This means you’ll need a
support cylinder of foam rubber, styrene foam, etc, just a
bit smaller than the inside diameter of the jar. The depth
needs to be just a bit less than the internal height of the jar
less the height of the PC board assembly. Assuming you’ve
soldered all LEDs hard down on the board, that’s around
12mm or so – call it 20mm to be safe.
The cylinder will need a hole up the middle for the
power leads to not only pass through but squash back up
into somewhat, when the PC board is brought down onto it.
siliconchip.com.au
It can be secured to the jar lid using silicone sealant (as
a glue) or you could use contact adhesive.
When the handle/lid assembly is dry, cut the power leads
to say 50mm (or even less if you have a fine soldering iron).
Strip off 5mm of insulation and solder the leads, again
watching out for polarity, to their appropriate positions
on the underside of the PC board.
As the PC board is brought down on the foam/styrene
cylinder, the power lead has to squash back into the middle
(aha! that’s the reason for the hole!) The PC board itself can
be glued or taped to the cylinder so that it sits square on it.
(We used ordinary clear sticky tape). The final result should
look something like the photo on the opposite page.
Before screwing the glass jar onto the assembly, check
to make sure the gasket (normally glued to the inside of
the lid) is intact – you don’t want any path for water to get
in – because if it can, it will!
Also, check again that the LEDs still light when you connect power. If so, screw the jar onto the lid, ensuring that
the LEDs miss the bottom of the jar by a few millimetres or
so. That’s it: your Prawnlite is now completed. Connect it
to a 12V battery and test that it works as intended.
Good luck with your prawning – can’t you just taste
those scrumptious little crustaceans already?
And if you discover a really good prawning spot – please,
SC
let us know? Promise we won’t tell anyone else . . .
Where from, how much?
The Prawnlite comes from Oatley Electronics, who hold
the copyright on both the design and the PC board.
Oatley have available two kits of parts:
K217 sells for $22.00 and contains 24 white LEDs plus 9
transistors, 9 resistors, 3 diodes, 2 capacitors and the PC
board. This makes the “half power” version.
K217e, when added to the first, makes the full power version. It contains another 24 white leds, 8 transistors and
8 resistors and retails for $15.00
You need to supply the glass jar, the length of conduit,
screws & nuts, silicone sealant/hot melt glue, etc.
Contact Oatley Electronics on (02) 9584 3561 or via their
website, www.oatleye.com
January 2005 71
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au/
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au/
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au/
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au/
Simon
Says . . .
Ahhhh! – nostalgia, it ain’t what it used
to be. We take a look at how electronic
games have changed over the last 25
years and describe a new “Simon Says”
game for you to build.
By CLIVE SEAGER
R
EMEMBER THE 70s? The BBC in
the UK recently produced a series
of television programs called “I Love
197x”. You certainly start to realise
your age when you discover that 1978
was over 25 years ago! The 1978 program made reference to the cult toy
of the year, “Simon”, made by MB
Games, which was loved by children
Fig.1: this page from the General
Instruments 1977 catalog lists
the PIC1650 as a “Programmable
Intelligent Computer”
76 Silicon Chip
and loathed by parents! This was one
of the very first mass-produced electronic games and I remember playing
it with friends and relatives.
Simon
For those too young to remember
1978, the idea behind the Simon game
was quite simple. It was based on the
old school playground game “Simon
Says”. The game was made up of a big
round plastic case with four coloured
panels. Each panel concealed a switch
and a light bulb.
At the start of a game, the electronics
inside would light up one of the four
panels briefly and sound a tone. The
player then had to press that panel,
after which Simon would repeat, lighting the same panel briefly and adding
another. Again, it was the player’s turn.
He or she then had to press the two
panels in the correct sequence.
Each round, the number of panels
increased by one until the player
could no longer remember the correct
sequence. Simon would then issue a
harsh buzz and end the game.
As I watched the TV program, it
struck me that this vintage toy from
1978 could probably be reproduced
with a PICAXE microcontroller at
very low cost.
So I set myself the task of building
This is the original MB “Simon”
game from 1978.
my own PICAXE version of the “Simon
Says” game, particularly as I thought
it would provide a perfect example
of how to remember sequences in a
PICAXE BASIC program, something
that many users find quite difficult.
Internet trivia
A quick Google search on the Internet soon revealed lots of trivia about
the original “Simon” game.
The first single-player game was
released in 1978. Subsequently, MB
released “Super Simon” in 1979,
which had two sets of panels for two
players. In 1980, a smaller version
called “Pocket Simon” appeared.
There was also a special edition Simon
with a clear casing so that the internal
workings could be seen.
Apparently, “Super Simon” even
makes an appearance in the film “ET”,
where it can be seen on the shelf behind ET’s head when he first speaks!
However, I was more interested
in how the original game worked. I
discovered it needed both a 9V PP3
and two large D cells to make it work,
presumably to power the light bulbs
and speaker, but could not discover
much more online.
Then using my “you can buy anything on eBay” philosophy, I did a
quick search and sure enough, dissiliconchip.com.au
covered that I could buy a real Super
Simon, complete with box and instructions, for just £5. So five days later I
was the proud owner of a vintage game,
which I then, as you probably expect
by now, completely disassembled!
The original game
Removing the cover exposed a
sparsely populated PC board. It consisted only of a metal switch contact,
eight bulbs buffered by a couple of
standard logic gates, and a Texas
Instrument “microcomputer” chip.
These microcomputer chips were
some of the first “single-chip” controllers widely used in mass-produced
consumer products, and can be found
in a wide range of early 80s equipment
such as vending machines. They were
the predecessors of the modern PIC
microcontrollers.
Many people think microcontrollers
are a relatively new idea, when in
actual fact this game was using very
similar single-chip technology 25
years ago!
What does “PIC” stand for?
One of the most common questions
we are asked is “what do PIC and
PICAXE actually stand for?”
Back in 1975, General Instruments
Microelectronics Division developed a
small 8-bit controller (PIC1650) based
on the Harvard architecture, which
itself had been created as part of an
earlier inter-university Defence Department competition. Many sources
quote the PIC1650 controller as being
created primarily as a support input/
output device for the more powerful
CP1600 16-bit processor and so quote
PIC as standing for “Peripheral Interface Controller”.
However, a rare scanned copy of the
1977 General Instruments “Micro-electronics” catalog tells a different story.
Fig.1 shows the PIC1650 page from
this catalog, which lists the device as a
“Programmable Intelligent Computer”.
The datasheet clearly shows that this
device was the “first in breed” of all the
later PICmicro devices, even though
is was only available in masked ROM
version using NMOS technology.
In the early 80s, a venture capital group purchased 85% of the GI
Microelectronics Division, including
the Arizona manufacturing plant, and
formed the Microchip company as it
is known today. This new company
combined the original PIC1650 techsiliconchip.com.au
“Super Simon” came a year after the original “Simon” game and featured twoplayer support.
A disassembled “Super Simon”, revealing the TI microcontroller (the larger 28pin chip) and not much more.
nology with EPROM memory to create
the one-time-programmable PICmicro “C” series parts known today.
Later they added erasable EEPROM
memory to create the PIC16C84, then
the 16F84, and subsequently all of the
“F” (FLASH) series parts.
Therefore, PIC can stand for either
January 2005 77
Fig.2: the circuit diagram for “Simon Says” is a PICAXE incarnation of the
game. As with the original, a single-chip micro handles all the smarts but
LEDs and a piezo sounder replace the incandescent bulbs and speaker.
“Peripheral Interface Controller” or
“Programmable Intelligent Computer”
– take your pic(k)! PICAXE is easier
to explain; it is simply a brand name
based on a play of words!
The new Simon game
The circuit diagram for the PICAXE
version of the game is shown in Fig.2.
As you can see, it’s very straightforward indeed, consisting of just the
micro, four LEDs, a piezo sounder,
five pushbutton switches and a few
resistors.
PC board assembly is also quite
straightforward. Use the overlay diagram in Fig.3 as a guide to component
placement. Take care with the orientation of the four LEDs, which must have
their flat (cathode) sides positioned as
shown. Also, make sure the notched
(pin 1) end of the PICAXE micro faces
the serial link socket. Before soldering
(1). Wait for the player to press a switch
to start the game.
(2). Generate a sequence of random
numbers, ranging from 0-3 for the
four LEDs. In this case, I will use 100
steps; many more than the seven or
eight I can normally repeat in a game!
These numbers are stored using the
write command in the PICAXE-18A’s
separate data memory, which actually
has space for up to 256 steps.
(3). Get the microcontroller to play
back the numbers. To do this, the
micro must know how many steps to
play back in each round of the game.
A variable called topstep will be used
to remember the number of steps. If
topstep = 1, one step will be played
back, if topstep = 2, two steps will be
played back, and so on.
(4). When the player presses a switch,
the microcontroller must light the
correct LED for that switch and then
compare the switch press to see if it
is in sequence. The micro must therefore count the number of switches the
the battery clip leads, thread them
through the adjacent hole to provide
strain relief.
Power your completed project only
from a 3 x AA alkaline cell (4.5V) battery pack or regulated 5V DC supply.
Take particular care that you have the
power leads around the right way,
otherwise you’ll destroy the PICAXE!
Programming introduction
The programming task for the Simon
game is fairly complicated but is a
good example of how to “remember”
sequences using the separate data
memory (available in all the “A” and
“X” series PICAXE micros).
When approaching a complicated
problem like this, it is essential to
break the overall task down into small,
manageable chunks and then put the
whole program together at the end.
The following tasks were identified:
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
o
o
o
o
o
No.
2
1
1
4
78 Silicon Chip
Value
10kΩ
22kΩ
4.7kΩ
330Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black orange brown
red red orange brown
yellow violet red brown
orange orange brown brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black red brown
red red black red brown
yellow violet black brown brown
orange orange black black brown
siliconchip.com.au
Parts List
1 Simon PC board
1 3.5mm stereo socket
1 miniature pushbutton switch
(SW5)
4 pushbutton switches (SW1 –
SW4)
1 battery clip
1 3 x AA battery holder
1 18-pin IC socket
1 miniature piezo transducer
Semiconductors
1 PICAXE-18A microcontroller
1 5mm green LED
1 5mm red LED
1 5mm yellow LED
1 5mm blue LED
Fig.3: follow this diagram when assembling the board. Take particular care
with the orientation of all the LEDs, the PICAXE micro and the power input
leads.
Capacitors
1 100nF (0.1µF) MKT (code
100n or 104)
Resistors (0.25W 5%)
2 10kΩ
1 4.7kΩ
1 22kΩ
4 330Ω
1 10kΩ trimpot (VR1)
Also required (not in kit)
PICAXE Programming Editor
software (v4.1.0 or later)
PICAXE download cable (part
AXE026)
3 AA alkaline cells
Obtaining kits and software
This is what the completed PC board looks like. Power comes from an external
4.5V battery pack consisting of three AA alkaline cells.
player has pressed. These are accumulated in the playerstep variable.
(5). When the player reaches the end
of the sequence, the microcontroller
must acknowledge the success, add
one to the value of topstep and then
repeat the process from (3) above. If
the player gets the sequence wrong,
a buzzer will sound and the game
will reset.
Program
The full program listing is shown
siliconchip.com.au
in the accompanying panel. Although
the program is quite complex, we’ve
included it here as an example of
what can be achieved with PICAXE
microcontrollers.
Full comments are given in the
program but a brief explanation is
also included below. Note: to save
typing the program in manually, you
can download it from the SILICON CHIP
web site at www.siliconchip.com.au.
Section 1 in the program is a loop
that lights all four LEDs, generates a
The design copyright for this
project is owned by Revolution
Education Ltd. Complete kits (part
AXE106K) for this project are
available from authorised PICAXE
distributors – see www.microzed.
com.au or phone Microzed on (02)
6772 2777.
The PICAXE Programming editor
software can be downloaded free
of charge from www.picaxe.co.uk
or ordered on CD (part BAS805).
random number and then waits for a
switch to be pressed to start the game.
By including the random command
within the loop, it is constantly varying and so no two games will be the
same.
Section 2 uses a for…next loop
to store 100 random numbers in the
micro’s memory. As the PICAXE random command only works on word
variables, it is called using the variable randword. However, as we only
January 2005 79
Simon Says PICAXE BASIC Program
' *** Define the variables used ***
symbol randword = w0
'random number (word)
symbol randbyte = b0
'random number (byte, part of w0)
symbol value = b2
'switch value 0-1-2-3
symbol playerstep = b3
'position of player in game
symbol freq = b4
'sound variable
symbol topstep = b5
'number of steps in sequence
symbol counter = b6
'general purpose counter
symbol speed = b7
'playback speed
' *** Section 1 **********************
' Wait for any switch to be pushed
init:
let pins = %00001111
random randword
if input0 = 1 then preload
if input1 = 1 then preload
if input6 = 1 then preload
if input7 = 1 then preload
goto init
'light all LEDs
'randomise
'check switches
' *** Section 2 ****************************
' Load EEPROM data memory with 100 numbers
preload:
let pins = %00000000
for counter = 0 to 100
'LEDs off
'for..next loop
let value = 0
random randword
'get random number
if randbyte > 180 then set0
if randbyte > 120 then set1
if randbyte > 60 then set2
set3: let value = value + 1
set2: let value = value + 1
set1: let value = value + 1
set0:
write counter,value
next counter
'1+1+1 = 3
'1+1 = 2
'1
'0
'save in data memory
'next loop
' *** Section 3 ****************************
' This section plays back a sequence
let pins = %00000000
let topstep = 1
playback:
readadc 2,speed
for counter = 1 to topstep
read counter,value
gosub beep
pause 300
next counter
'LEDs off
'reset step number to 1
'read speed value from preset
'for...next loop
'get value
'make the noise
'short delay
'loop
' *** Section 4 **************************************
' Now the user responds
playerstep = 1
' If playerstep is greater than topstep then all done
80 Silicon Chip
gameloop:
if playerstep > topstep then success
read playerstep,value
'recall correct value
loop:
if input7 = 1 then pushed0 'wait for switch press
if input0 = 1 then pushed1
if input1 = 1 then pushed2
if input6 = 1 then pushed3
goto loop
' Now check correct value depending on which switch was pressed
pushed0:
if value <> 0 then fail
let playerstep = playerstep + 1
gosub beep
goto gameloop
pushed1:
if value <> 1 then fail
let playerstep = playerstep + 1
gosub beep
goto gameloop
pushed2:
if value <> 2 then fail
let playerstep = playerstep + 1
gosub beep
goto gameloop
pushed3:
if value <> 3 then fail
let playerstep = playerstep + 1
gosub beep
goto gameloop
' Failed so make noise and jump back to start
fail:
let pins = %0000000
'all LEDs off
sound 7,(80,100)
'make a noise
sound 7,(50,100)
goto init
'back to start
' Succeeded so add another step to sequence and loop
success:
pause 100
'short delay
let pins = %00001111
'all LEDs on
sound 7,(120,50)
'success beep
let pins = %00000000
'all LEDs off
pause 100
'short delay
let topstep = topstep + 1
'add another step
goto playback
'loop again
' *** Section 5 ****************
'Sub-procedure to light correct LED and make beep
beep:
high value
freq = value + 1 * 25
sound 7,(freq,speed)
low value
return
'switch on LED
‘generate sound freq.
'play sound
'switch off LED
'return
siliconchip.com.au
require a byte value, we later use the
variable randbyte (one half of randword). We only require the numbers
0-3 (for the four LEDs) but randbyte
can contain the value 0-255 and so we
carry out a simple comparison test to
get the four desired values.
Section 3 switches all four LEDs off
and then uses a for..next loop to play
back the sequence (up to the variable
topstep). The “beep” sub-procedure in
section 5 is used to light the appropriate LED and make a sound for each
step. Note that the sound is different
for each LED to aid memory during
the game. The length of the beep is
determined by the setting of trimpot
VR1, which can therefore be used to
increase or decrease the speed of the
game.
Section 4 first resets the player’s
position to 1. A test is then carried
out to see if the player has completed
all the required steps. If all steps have
been done, the “success” section of the
code flashes all four LEDs, adds one
more step to the topstep value and then
loops back to section 3.
If there are still steps to do, the
correct target value is retrieved from
memory for comparison. The program
then enters a loop, waiting for a switch
to be pressed.
When a switch is pressed it is compared to the target value retrieved from
memory. If the values are the same,
everything is correct and so the LED
is lit via the “beep” sub-procedure,
the players position is increased by
one and the program loops back for
another switch press.
If the value is incorrect, the “fail”
section of the code makes a noise and
then resets the game.
Summary
Single-chip controllers are not new,
as this game was using them 25 years
ago! However, electronics has changed
dramatically since then and modern
microcontrollers are much cheaper
and easier to use than the original
micros.
Modern microcontrollers such as
the PICAXE reduce large complex
circuits down to simple, clean designs
and dramatically reduce the cost of
these products. LED technology has
improved and no game would ever be
manufactured now with bulbs due to
cost, safety and power consumption.
Microcontrollers are here to stay! SC
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January 2005 81
Vintage Radio
By RODNEY CHAMPNESS, VK3UG
Outback communications: the
Flying Doctor radios
Radio communications played a vital role
in bringing the Flying Doctor service to the
outback. Here’s how the outback radios were
developed.
Back in 1912, the Reverend John
Flynn became acutely aware of the
needs of people living in outback Australia. The community facilities that
we now take for granted in our cities
– ie, good roads, rapid transport, good
medical services, communications
(including telephones), entertainment
and supermarkets, etc – simply did not
exist in the outback back then (and
Alfred Traeger posing with the first pedal radio in November 1928. This
consisted of a 2-valve regenerative receiver using space charge tetrode valves
(A141) and a 1-valve triode (B205) crystal-controlled Morse code (CW)
transmitter. The transmitter operated with an output of 1-1.5W on a frequency
of 2230kHz.
82 Silicon Chip
often still don’t today).
Admittedly, many of these facilities
were rudimentary – and in some cases
non-existent – in city areas in 1912.
However, the people of the outback
had none of these conveniences. How
would we like to live in a world like
that?
In reality, the infrastructure in outback Australia is quite poor and, given
the sparse population, will remain
that way.
Flynn, through the Australian Inland Mission (AIM), an arm of the
Presbyterian Church in Australia,
began looking at ways to address the
plight of people in isolated outback
areas. In particular, he saw that people
needed medical facilities (hospitals,
doctors and nurses), the means to obtain speedy access to these facilities,
and a means of calling promptly for
this assistance.
The few medical centres that did
exist at that time were thinly spread
throughout remote areas. A single
nurse (or perhaps two) and – if they
were lucky – a doctor within a few
hundred miles were about the best that
people in the outback could expect
nearly a century ago.
Transport to and from these centres
was also a very real problem in those
days, as the best roads were often little
better than two wheel ruts through the
scrub. Flynn was convinced by 1917
that aircraft could ultimately provide
the needed transport in emergency
medical cases. The cost of landing
strips was much lower than providing
roads and aircraft were speedier than
land-based vehicles.
Bush radio
Another problem was that a means
of quickly summoning aid was not
siliconchip.com.au
John Flynn (nearest to camera) and George Towns setting off from Adelaide
on their 1925 trip to test radio communications equipment in outback central
Australia.
available. There were no telephones
back then, as the cost of providing a
telephone service to outback cattle
stations was prohibitive. In addition,
cattle drovers were never in one place
for long, so a telephone service would
have been useless for many people
anyway.
By 1919, Flynn hit on the idea of
using radio communications to summon aid in an emergency. However,
he could see that radio was still in its
infancy and not really suitable at that
stage for the job.
The world was just recovering from
the ravages of World War I and many
things were still in a state of confusion.
Spark wireless transmitting and crystal receiving equipment was totally
unsuitable for use between outback
cattle stations and the nearest town
where medical facilities were available, such as Cloncurry or Oodnadatta.
The government had also placed some
restrictions on the use of valves by
radio experimenters, although this was
gradually being relaxed.
In fact, by 1919, valves were being used in an increasing number of
transmitters and receivers and valveequipment was showing promise as a
possible solution to his problems. But
even the most advanced cutting-edge
radio technology of 1919 was still
totally unsuitable for the work that
Flynn envisaged.
As a result, Flynn encouraged both
siliconchip.com.au
individuals and groups involved in
wireless communications – such as
the Wireless Institute of Australia – to
develop an easy-to-operate, portable
or semi-fixed radio transmitter and
receiver for use in the outback. This
equipment was to be used on remote
cattle or sheep stations to communicate with a central base station.
Many tried and failed and even the
military, despite all the facilities they
had at their disposal, had nothing like
the equipment Flynn required. Was he
asking the impossible?
Early experiments
Despite those early setbacks, Flynn
continued to encourage experimenters to develop suitable radio communications equipment. In 1925, he
obtained help from Harry Kauper to
develop equipment to test various
ideas on outback communications.
Kauper was the chief engineer of
radio station 5CL and arguably the
most competent radio experimenter
in Adelaide at that time.
Under his guidance, Flynn and
George Towns (an ex-WWI digger
with experience in wireless) built the
equipment. The amount of equipment
involved can be seen in the accompanying photograph of Flynn and Towns
leaving Adelaide in the overloaded
Dodge buckboard.
This equipment was tested by Flynn
and Towns throughout the outback and
they were able to contact Kauper and
other experimenters. The experiments
were successful in that some ideas
were definitely worth incorporating
into a portable transmitter/receiver,
while others required further development. And of course, some ideas
proved to be failures.
However, the overall development
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January 2005 83
The 1930 pedal radio was built into a heavy metal cabinet and used two
transmitters – one on 2020kHz and the other on 8630kHz. This set was the
Augustus Downs pedal radio and is now at John Flynn Place, Cloncurry.
An under chassis view of the 1930 pedal radio. The transmitters used A615
valves (or A415s) and had an RF output power of just 1.5W.
direction was slowly evolving. For
example, it quickly became painfully
obvious that voice communications
were out of the question with the portable equipment envisaged. However,
Morse code transmission from portable stations would be practical within
a few years, once a range of problems
had been overcome.
In 1926, Kauper built three transmitter/receiver sets for use in experiments between Arltunga, Hermannsburg and the AWA-supplied
base station at Stuart (Alice Springs).
These were tested by Flynn and Alfred
Traeger (the pedal radio man) and
proved successful, the unit operating
for several months before breaking
down.
Inside view of the first pedal radio,
complete with all the batteries. Note
that the transmitting valve (B205) is
missing from its socket at the bottom
left of the photograph.
84 Silicon Chip
The birth of pedal radio
With the design criteria sorted out,
Flynn gave Traeger the job of developing a suitable transmitter/receiver un-
der the watchful eye of Harry Kauper
(Traeger’s mentor), who contributed
his considerable skills to the design.
After many experiments, Traeger built
the first pedal radio and unveiled
it to Flynn in November 1928. This
was a magnificent achievement, as it
was the first portable high-frequency
(HF) transmitter/receiver in the world
that could be used by non-technical
people.
According to its operating licence,
the transmitter was crystal-locked on
2230kHz. It used a B205 valve which
was operated in class “C” mode as a
Morse code (CW) transmitter. Now
the efficiency of small battery valves
was quite low in class “C”, so an
input of about 4W gave just 1.5W of
output power – ie, it was only 40%
efficient.
The low-tension “A” battery supply
came from two No.6 cells in series,
while the high-tension “B” supply
was nominally 180V but depended on
how quickly the operator pedalled the
generator (hence the name pedal radio)
which supplied this power.
The transmitter was coupled to a
quarter-wave wire aerial and a tuned
counterpoise system. This proved to be
an extremely effective antenna system,
which it needed to be, considering the
low transmitter power and the long
distances over which the equipment
was required to operate. In fact, this
type of system was used up until relatively recent times.
The receiver was a simple 2-valve
unit. It consisted of a regenerative
detector and a transformer-coupled
audio output stage which fed a pair
of headphones. It tuned the broadcast
band and one shortwave band, which
included 2230kHz.
The valves used were two A141
space charge tetrodes which required
1.5V (“A”) for the filaments and 9V
(“B”) – from two 4.5V bias batteries – for the high tension. The very
low voltage on the “B” supply was
sufficient for the A141 valves, which
were designed to operate effectively
on voltages from 2-20V.
Kauper selected the A141 valves
because they drew very little current
at low voltages. High voltage dry
batteries of the era deteriorated very
quickly in sub-tropical environments
where these sets were to operate, such
as Cloncurry in Queensland.
Six such sets were installed during
1929 within a radius of 600km of the
siliconchip.com.au
Base transmitter
The Cloncurry base transmitter
was much more powerful than the
pedal radios, having an output power
of 50W on (AM) voice. Of course, fixed
base transmitters of reasonable power
drew considerably more electrical
power than a pedal radio transmitter.
However, this wasn’t a problem in this
case, as a 32V lighting plant had been
installed at Cloncurry to power the base
station (despite the expense).
The base station receivers were also
more elaborate than the pedal radio
receivers, mainly because they had to
be more sensitive.
Teething problems
Despite quickly proving their worth,
practical experience with the new radios during the first few months also
revealed some shortcomings. In particular, the sets were not always able to
achieve reliable communications. To
achieve that goal, it was evident that
a frequency near 10MHz was needed
in addition to 2MHz.
It was a case of going back to the
drawing board and making the necessary improvements so that the pedal
radios would be effective. Although
the pedal generator had proved quite
satisfactory, the receiver lacked gain
and stability, and it seems that the
transmitter valve may not have been
rugged enough to stand the physical
abuse of being bumped around in the
outback.
As a result, these first six sets were
scrapped over a period of time and
their parts used in later improved sets,
which is why there are no examples of
the original sets in existence. However,
there are two photographs which do
show what they looked like.
The 1930 pedal radio
Harry Kauper decided to move to
Melbourne in 1930, which meant
that he was now able to provide only
limited assistance to Alfred Traeger.
Left largely to his own devices, Traeger used the best design aspects of the
original sets and worked on methods
of overcoming the weaknesses.
The replacement sets were built
into a heavy metal case (to thwart
termites) and the original single
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: this is the circuit for the 1930-model pedal radio. Note the two almost identical transmitter stages based on A615 valves (one for 2020kHz and the
other for 8630kHz). The receiver used three A109 triode valves – a regenerative detector and two transformer-coupled audio stages. The receiver tuned the
broadcast band and up to around 10MHz, using plug-in coils.
Cloncurry base. They quickly proved
their worth when it came to saving
lives, by summoning aircraft to carry
patients to the hospital at Cloncurry.
January 2005 85
A model 36 pedal radio with pedal generator mounted below it, on display at
“Adelaide House” in Alice Springs.
transmitter became two transmitters –
one on a frequency of 2020kHz (night
frequency) and the other on 8630kHz
(day frequency). Exactly when these
frequencies were issued is uncertain
but it was definitely by 1931.
Traeger reasoned that by having two
transmitters, communications with
Cloncurry could be achieved either
on the night frequency or the day frequency, even if one broke down. The
transmitter design remained essentially
the same as before, except the valves
used were now A615s (or even A415s),
which required four or five No.6 cells in
series to power the filaments. The radio
frequency (RF) output power remained
at about 1.5W.
The antenna design also remained
much the same as for the original set
but it was now expected to operate on
the two frequencies. As a result, two
separate counterpoises were used in
these units.
Initially, they were tuned in the
same way as the original pedal radios,
by laboriously adjusting the length
of each counterpoise. Later on, they
were modified so that the electrical
length (and hence the tuning) of each
counterpoise could be adjusted within
the set itself.
Developed in 1931,
Traeger’s Morse typewriter
sent perfect Morse code,
regardless of the skills of
the operator.
86 Silicon Chip
No meters were used in the transmitters to indicate the correct tuning. Instead, tuning was carried out by watching a small pea lamp and adjusting the
transmitter and counterpoise controls
for maximum lamp brightness.
It was said that if you got a glimmer
out of the pea lamp, you had succeeded
in tuning the transmitter!
The receiver, although also basically
the same as the original, now boasted
three conventional A109 triode valves.
There was a regenerative detector and
two transformer-coupled audio stages,
with the output stage feeding a pair
of headphones or, if the signals were
really strong, a loudspeaker.
The receiver was able to tune the
broadcast band and up to around
10MHz using plug-in coils. It was a
much better performer than the original but now required a 45V HT battery
in lieu of the 9V HT battery used in
the original receiver.
To the best of my knowledge, there
is only one example of this model
in existence and it is housed at John
Flynn Place in Cloncurry. Another set
that appears to be the same is at the
RFDS base in Alice Springs. However,
this is a model 34, which was made
around three years later and uses different valves – three 30s in the receiver
and two 33s in the transmitters.
Gaining access to these sets is difficult but I was able to see them some
years ago thanks to the late Reverend
Fred McKay. Unfortunately, I was unable to test them but I did build replica
transmitters similar to the sets at John
Flynn Place and in Alice Springs, in
order to assess their performance (the
receivers were conventional for their
era, so I didn’t build any replicas of
these).
The accompanying photographs
show the construction of the set at
Cloncurry. The “chassis” is ebonite
and components are mounted on it
as shown. The wiring is in dark red
spaghetti-covered single conductor
wire.
The transmit/receive switch is the
very large and relatively complex
unit in the centre back of the set. Its
operation can be traced in the circuit
diagram. It’s also worth noting that
Traeger made any special switches
himself.
The meter on the front panel was
used when adjusting the filament voltages on the transmitter and the receiver
valves. In practice, the receiver valves
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.2: the model 36 was the first AM/CW pedal radio to be produced in any quantity. It was supplied with three plugin transmitter assemblies (one for each frequency) and also used plug-in coils in the receiver.
were adjusted for a voltage of 1-1.3V
and the transmitter valves for 6V.
The Morse typewriter
The next improvement in outback
communications came with the development of the ingenious Morse
typewriter by Traeger in 1931. As
might be expected, the Morse code
skills of the operators at the cattle stations were generally quite poor and it
was often quite difficult for the base
station operator to understand what
was being sent.
By contrast, the typewriter sent
perfect Morse code and even had a
mechanical interlock which prevented
more than one key from being pressed
siliconchip.com.au
at a time. The exact sending speed was
adjusted by an oil-filled dashpot and
this was usually set to give a transmission speed of 10 words per minute.
Traeger could see that this valve
could also perform as a push-pull class
“B” modulator for the plate and screen
The first voice pedal radios
Voice communication was still the
goal as far as Flynn was concerned,
however.
By 1934, the type 19 valve was
available in reasonable quantities in
Australia. This valve was originally
designed for use as a class “B” pushpull audio output stage and was capable of around 2.2W with 135V of plate
voltage. With this valve, battery receivers were capable of audio outputs that
rivalled many mains-operated sets.
January 2005 87
Photo Gallery: General Electric 1934
Duette (Made by AWA)
total. However, from my research, it
would appear that a model 35 was the
first of the AM/CW sets and there may
have only been one or two of these
produced. It had a 3-valve receiver
similar to the early CW-only receivers and a transmitter similar to the
later 36 set.
The 36 set, which was produced in
late 1935 or early 1936, had a totally
new receiver. Some of the new lowfilament current tetrode RF valves
found favour with Traeger and the
new receiver had a 32 as an untuned
RF amplifier, followed by a 32 as a
regenerative detector. A 30 triode
was used as an audio stage and this
was transformer-coupled to a triodeconnected 49 audio output stage.
This set had an advantage over the
earlier regenerative receivers in that
the regeneration was not affected by
the style of antenna connected to it.
As a result, the regeneration control
was much smoother.
A design similar to this receiver
was published in the April 1929 issue of “QST”, the official magazine
of the American Radio Relay League.
However, it used valves with higher
filament current drains, which were
unsuitable for the pedal radio designs
of 1929.
Plug-in coils
Manufactured under licence in 1934 by AWA, the GE “Duette” was a
5-valve reflexed superhet receiver that was electrically equivalent to
the AWA Radiolette Model 27. The valve line-up was as follows: 78
RF amplifier, 6A7 frequency changer, 6B7 reflexed IF/audio amplifier/detector/AVC rectifier, 42 audio output and 80 rectifier. Photo:
Historical Radio Society of Australia, Inc.
of the transmitter output valve (33).
This was tried and proved successful,
even with 180V on the 19 valve – well
above its design ratings. Its standing
current was 20mA instead of 10mA in
this situation, with zero bias.
This mistreatment seems to have
been tolerated by the valve because of
the intermittent nature of transmitting.
The base station operators also used
to do routine visits to the various outstations and replaced any weak valves
in the transmitters on a regular basis
to keep failure rates down
Perhaps one point needs to be made
quite clear – the pedal generators did
88 Silicon Chip
not produce more than 220V (when
pedalling hard) and supplied between
160V and 200V (depending on the
version of the pedal generator used)
at normal pedalling rates. If they had
produced the 350V some texts suggest, transmitting valves such as the
19 (with a maximum design rating
of 135V) and the 33 (rated at 180V)
would have failed spectacularly
within seconds.
The model 36
The model 36 was the first AM/
CW pedal radio to be produced in
any quantity – perhaps 10-20 sets in
The 36 also included an innovation
that had started to appear in the last
of the CW transceivers – ie, plug-in
transmitter assemblies for each frequency (this in addition to plug-in
coils for the receiver). Changing the
transmitter frequency was simply a
matter of changing the pre-tuned plugin assembly.
Three plug-in assemblies were
supplied with each transmitter, as
only three frequencies were allocated
to each network. The wiring of each
plug-in was such that the correct counterpoise was automatically connected
for the frequency in use. As for the frequencies used, in 1935 the base station
at Wyndham was allocated 1600kHz,
5300kHz and 8830kHz (the broadcast
band only extended to 1500kHz at
that time).
The receiver’s tuning range remained nominally the same as previous models, with enough plug-in
coils to cover from 550kHz to around
10MHz. The higher frequency coils
were wired in such a way that bandspreading was achieved for easier
siliconchip.com.au
tuning, as can be seen in the model
36 circuit diagram.
For those unfamiliar with bandspreading, it is a mechanical or electronic means of spreading the tuning
out across a band, which makes for
easier tuning. A typical dual-wave
receiver tunes from 6-18MHz in one
sweep, which makes it hard to tune
accurately. By contrast, a set with
band-spreading splits that range up
into multiple bands and is therefore
easier to tune accurately – eg, an AWA
7-band set has seven bands which tune
from 550kHz to 22.3MHz.
Once again, I built replica transmitters to check their performance. They
performed pretty much as predicted.
In the model 36 set, the 19 valve is
overloaded and some standing bias
would have been a good idea. I did
not build a replica 36 receiver, as
Graham Pitts, VK6GF – the Base Director at Alice Springs from 1944 to
1953 – assured me that these receivers
performed satisfactorily.
Summary
The early development of the Flying Doctor pedal radios is fascinating.
In this article, I’ve given you but a
glimpse of what happened over the
years from 1912 to 1936. It progressed
from nothing to Morse code transmissions from the out-stations (homesteads) and voice transmission from
the base station at Cloncurry in 1929,
and then to voice transmissions from
the out-stations and the base stations
in 1935/6.
Due to the low power of the outstation pedal radios, the reception at
the base stations was, more often than
not, very poor. By contrast, base station
transmissions were clearly heard most
of the time as the transmitter power
was much greater than the 1.5W output
of the early pedal radios.
In late 1945 (after the end of WW II),
out-station transceivers of up to 20W
became available which improved
communications performance markedly. Depending on the circumstances,
the base transmitter powers varied
between 20W and 400W output when
AM transmissions were at their peak
use.
For those who wish to know a lot
more about the development of communications in the outback, my book
“Outback Radio – from Flynn to Satellites” will be helpful – see adjacent
SC
panel.
siliconchip.com.au
BOOK REVIEW
By Leo Simpson
History of
Outback Radio
Outback Radio, from Flynn to
Satellites, by Rodney Champness.
Published 2004. Soft covers, 210
x 296mm, 186 pages. ISBN 0 646
43674 0. $39.95.
Just by coincidence, this month’s
Vintage Radio column happens to
cover some of the subject material in
this book, involving the pedal radio
developed by Alf Traeger. Rodney
Champness has put a great deal of
research into this book, going as far
as to reproduce some the early radios
to check their performance.
In total, there are 17 chapters
and eight appendices and the story
goes right back to the beginnings
of European settlement. The first
chapter is largely devoted to the
Overland Telegraph which began to
be installed around Australia in the
1850s. In the days before the 1920s,
the Telegraph and the various state
railways represented the only ways
to get messages quickly over vast
distances and those methods left
vast areas of Australia totally isolated. Few people had telephones
and so there was a vast challenge
which was taken up by John Flynn.
John Flynn and Alf Traeger are the
two heroes of this book.
Rodney Champness proceeds to
describe the development of early
radio communications in minute
and exhaustive detail, covering
not only the various transmitters
and receivers but also the innovative pedal generators, designed by
Alf Traeger and Henry Kauper. An
incidental detail is that the pedal
generators designed by Traeger only
supplied the transmitter’s high voltage while the remaining filament
and other supplies were provided
by batteries.
While the main thrust of the
book is the pioneering radio work
to complement the Royal Flying
Doctor Service, a good portion is
devoted to more recent develop-
ments since the 1950s, right up
to the use of satellite communications, EPIRBs and GPS.
The eight appendices are of
particular interest. Appendix one
is a synopsis of the 17 chapters of
the book while appendix two is a
collection of early transmitters and
transceivers and reviews of their
performance. This will probably
be the most closely read section of
the entire book. Appendix three is
a detailed discussion of aerial and
counterpoise systems – critical to
early radio communications.
Appendices four and five are collections of miscellaneous information, significant dates, valve data
and radio frequencies. Appendix
six contains brief profiles of outback radio pioneers and appendix
seven is a comprehensive glossary.
Appendix eight is the bibliography.
In summary, this is a thoroughly
researched history of outback radio
which will be of value to anyone
interested in early Australian radio.
The book is available from the
author, Rodney Champness, 6 Mundoona Court, Mooroopna, Vic 3629.
The price is $39.95 plus $8 postage.
Payment may be made by cheque or
money order. (L. D. S.)
January 2005 89
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BUILD YOUR OWN ELECTRIC MOTORCYCLE
by Carl Vogel. Published 2009. $40.00*
by Ian Hickman. 4th edition 2007 $61.00*
Alternative fuel expert Carl Vogel gives you a hands-on guide with
A guide to RF design for engineers, technicians, students and enthusiasts.
the latest technical information and easy-to-follow instructions
Covers key topics in RF: analog design principles, transmission lines,
for building a two-wheeled electric vehicle – from a streamlined
couplers, transformers, amplifiers, oscillators, modulation, transmitters and
scooter to a full-sized motorcycle. 384 pages in soft cover.
receivers, propagation and antennas. 279 pages in paperback.
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PIC MICROCONTROLLERS: know it all
SELF ON AUDIO
Multiple authors $85.00
The best of subjects Newnes authors have written over the past few years,
combined in a one-stop maxi reference. Covers introduction to PICs and their
programming in Assembly, PICBASIC, MBASIC & C. 900+ pages.
PROGRAMMING and CUSTOMIZING THE
PICAXE By David Lincoln (2nd Ed, 2011) $65.00*
A great aid when wrestling with applications for the PICAXE
See
series of microcontrollers, at beginner, intermediate and
Review
April
advanced levels. Every electronics class, school and library should have a
copy, along with anyone who works with PICAXEs. 300 pages in paperback. 2011
PIC IN PRACTICE
by D W Smith. 2nd Edition - published 2006 $60.00*
Based on popular short courses on the PIC, for professionals, students
and teachers. Can be used at a variety of levels. An ideal introduction to the
world of microcontrollers. 255 pages in paperback.
PIC MICROCONTROLLER – your personal introductory course By John Morton 3rd edition 2005. $60.00*
A unique and practical guide to getting up and running with the PIC. It assumes no knowledge of microcontrollers – ideal introduction for students,
teachers, technicians and electronics enthusiasts. Revised 3rd edition focuses entirely
on re-programmable flash PICs such as 16F54, 16F84 12F508 and 12F675. 226 pages
in paperback.
by Douglas Self 2nd Edition 2006 $69.00*
A collection of 35 classic magazine articles offering a dependable methodology for designing audio power amplifiers to improve performance at every
point without significantly increasing cost. Includes compressors/limiters,
hybrid bipolar/FET amps, electronic switching and more. 467 pages in paperback.
SMALL SIGNAL AUDIO DESIGN
By Douglas Self – First Edition 2010 $95.00*
The latest from the Guru of audio. Explains audio concepts in easy-to-understand language with plenty of examples and reasoning. Inspiration for audio
designers, superb background for audio enthusiasts and especially where it comes to
component peculiarities and limitations. Expensive? Yes. Value for money? YES! Highly
recommended. 558 pages in paperback.
AUDIO POWER AMPLIFIER DESIGN HANDBOOK
by Douglas Self – 5th Edition 2009 $85.00*
"The Bible" on audio power amplifiers. Many revisions and
updates to the previous edition and now has an extra three
chapters covering Class XD, Power Amp Input Systems and
Input Processing and Auxiliarly Subsystems. Not cheap and not a book
for the beginner but if you want the best reference on Audio Power Amps,
you want this one! 463 pages in paperback.
DVD PLAYERS AND DRIVES
by K.F. Ibrahim. Published 2003. $71.00*
OP AMPS FOR EVERYONE
By Bruce Carter – 4th Edition 2013 $83.00*
This is the bible for anyone designing op amp circuits and you don't
have to be an engineer to get the most out of it. It is written in simple language
but gives lots of in-depth info, bridging the gap between the theoretical and the
practical. 281 pages,
A guide to DVD technology and applications, with particular focus
on design issues and pitfalls, maintenance and repair. Ideal for
engineers, technicians, students of consumer electronics and
sales and installation staff. 319 pages in paperback.
by Sanjaya Maniktala, Published April 2012. $83.00
Thoroughly revised! The most comprehensive study available of theoretical and practical aspects of controlling and measuring
EMI in switching power supplies.
Subtitled Exploring the PIC32, a Microchip insider tells all on this powerful
PIC! Focuses on examples and exercises that show how to solve common,
real-world design problems quickly. Includes handy checklists. FREE CD-ROM includes
source code in C, the Microchip C30 compiler, and MPLAB SIM. 400 pages paperback.
By Garry Cratt – Latest (7th) Edition 2008 $49.00
Written in Australia, for Australian conditions by one of Australia's foremost
satellite TV experts. If there is anything you wanted to know about setting up
a satellite TV system, (including what you can't do!) it's sure to be covered
in this 176-page paperback book.
See
Review
Feb
2004
SWITCHING POWER SUPPLIES A-Z
PROGRAMMING 32-bit MICROCONTROLLERS
IN C By Luci di Jasio (2008) $79.00*
PRACTICAL GUIDE TO SATELLITE TV
See
Review
March
2010
ELECTRIC MOTORS AND DRIVES
By Austin Hughes & Bill Drury - 4th edition 2013 $59.00*
This is a very easy to read book with very little mathematics or
formulas. It covers the basics of all the main motor types, DC
permanent magnet and wound field, AC induction and steppers and
gives a very good description of how speed control circuits work with these
motors. Soft covers, 444 pages.
NEWNES GUIDE TO TV & VIDEO TECHNOLOGY
By KF Ibrahim 4th Edition (Published 2007) $49.00
It's back! Provides a full and comprehensive coverage of video and television technology including HDTV and DVD. Starts with fundamentals so is
ideal for students but covers in-depth technologies such as Blu-ray, DLP,
Digital TV, etc so is also perfect for engineers. 600+ pages in paperback.
RF CIRCUIT DESIGN
by Chris Bowick, Second Edition, 2008. $63.00*
The classic RF circuit design book. RF circuit design is now more important
that ever in the wireless world. In most of the wireless devices that we use
there is an RF component – this book tells how to design and integrate in a
very practical fashion. 244 pages in paperback.
PRACTICAL RF HANDBOOK
AC MACHINES
By Jim Lowe Published 2006 $66.00*
Applicable to Australian trades-level courses including NE10 AC Machines,
NE12 Synchronous Machines and the AC part of NE30 Electric Motor
Control and Protection. Covering polyphase induction motors, singlephase motors, synchronous machines and polyphase motor starting. 160
pages in paperback.
PRACTICAL VARIABLE SPEED DRIVES &
POWER ELECTRONICS
Se
e
by Malcolm Barnes. 1st Ed, Feb 2003. $73.00* Review
An essential reference for engineers and anyone who wishes
to design or use variable speed drives for induction motors.
286 pages in soft cover.
Feb
2003
BUILD YOUR OWN ELECTRIC MOTORCYCLE
by Carl Vogel. Published 2009. $40.00*
by Ian Hickman. 4th edition 2007 $61.00*
Alternative fuel expert Carl Vogel gives you a hands-on guide with
A guide to RF design for engineers, technicians, students and enthusiasts.
the latest technical information and easy-to-follow instructions
Covers key topics in RF: analog design principles, transmission lines,
for building a two-wheeled electric vehicle – from a streamlined
couplers, transformers, amplifiers, oscillators, modulation, transmitters and
scooter to a full-sized motorcycle. 384 pages in soft cover.
receivers, propagation and antennas. 279 pages in paperback.
*NOTE: ALL PRICES ARE PLUS P&P – AUSTRALIA ONLY: $10.00 per order; NZ – $AU12.00 PER BOOK; REST OF WORLD $AU18.00 PER BOOK
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CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions from
readers are welcome and will be paid for at standard rates.
Lithium-polymer
peak charger
This circuit was developed to
charge the Lithium-Polymer cells
used in a model aircraft.
Lithium-Polymer cells are incredibly lightweight compared to Nicad
battery packs of the same voltage
and amp-hour rating. Their only
drawback is that they require a
rigid charge and discharge regime
to achieve maximum life. The
most important points of note are
as follows:
(1). They should be charged using
a constant-current, constant-voltage
method, which stops the charge
once the current has dropped to
about the C/10 rate. For example, for
an 800mAh pack, charging should
be terminated once the current falls
to approximately 80mA.
(2). They should never be discharged below 3V per cell otherwise
they will be permanently damaged.
(3). They should not be charged or
discharged above their rated current otherwise an explosion and
fire can result!
To initiate charging, the momen92 Silicon Chip
tary “Start” button (switch S1) is
pressed, closing the relay contacts
and connecting the battery pack
to the output of REG1. The circuit
will then charge two 800mAh cells
in series at a constant current of
600mAh until they reach a peak
terminal voltage of 4.2V per cell
(nominal terminal voltage for these
cells is 3.7V).
REG1 and transistor Q2 form a
current-limited voltage regulator.
When the charge current exceeds
about 600mA, the voltage developed across R7 turns on Q2, which
in turn pulls the adjust terminal
of REG1 towards ground. This
shunts the voltage adjustment resistance chain formed by VR2 and
R3, thereby limiting the output to
600mA.
When the battery voltage reaches
about 8.4V, the regulator limits any
further voltage increase, as set by
VR2. The charge current will then
slowly decrease as the cells reach
full capacity. As a result, the voltage
across R7 also falls, until the bias
voltage on the base of Q1 is too small
to keep it in conduction. When Q1
turns off, the relay also turns off,
Wayne
R
is this m objent
o
winner nth’s
o
Peak At f the
las LCR
Meter
isolating the
fully charged
battery.
The charger is
set up as follows:
(1). Connect it to 12V DC and place
a digital voltmeter between the
output of REG1 and the negative
output for the battery pack. Adjust
VR2 for a reading of 8.4V.
(2). Adjust VR1 so that the voltage
on the base of Q1 is at maximum.
(3). Place an ammeter in series
with the battery to be charged and
press the “Start” button. The output
current will shoot up to around
600mA, then slowly decrease over
the next one to two hours.
Once it falls to around 80mA (or
whatever the C/10 rate is for your
cells), slowly turn VR1 until the
relay switches off and indicator
LED goes out.
The circuit should now charge
your battery packs to within 97%
of their rated capacity.
Finally, note that in most cases,
REG1 will need to be fitted with a
heatsink.
Wayne Robjent,
Tuart Hill, WA. ($50)
siliconchip.com.au
Efficient fan
speed controller
A partial solution to quietening
noisy PCs can be to reduce the speed
of internal cooling fans. Low-cost
fan speed controllers are available,
but they often employ inefficient,
heat-generating linear regulators
and contain no temperature feedback mechanism.
This idea makes use of a readily available, cheap in-car mobile
phone charger. The majority of
these use common circuitry and
require only minor modifications to
operate as efficient fan speed controllers complete with temperature
feedback.
Most in-car chargers are based
on the well-known MC34063 DCDC switchmode IC. When used
for charging mobile phones, the
open-circuit output voltage is
typically set to between 7V and
9V. This is achieved with a simple
voltage divider across the output,
the centre point of which connects
to the feedback input (pin 5) of the
MC34063.
To make the output voltage variable with air temperature, first
replace the upper resistor of the
divider with a 4.7kΩ resistor in
series with a 4.7kΩ trimpot. The
lower half of the divider is then replaced with a 470Ω resistor in series
with a 500Ω NTC thermistor. These
values are only a guide and can be
varied to suit different thermistor
and fan types. Note that component
lead length should be minimised
to avoid introducing noise into the
feedback circuitry.
Getting the correct fan starting
voltage is a matter of trial and error.
The values shown on the circuit
give a starting voltage of about 6.8V
at room temperature but trimpot
VR1 can be used to raise this voltage as necessary. The output can
then rise to about 10V if the interior
temperature rises sufficiently.
The 4.7kΩ resistor could be reduced to 3.9kΩ and VR1 adjusted
to give a lower starting voltage if
the fan speed is still too high at 7V.
After running for one hour or so,
the fan voltage as set by the interior
case temperature thermistor on my
PC settled at 7.4V.
Suitable chargers are available
Simple white noise generator
siliconchip.com.au
from Oatley Electronics, Cat. No.
2D0074. They’re currently listed at
$5 for two, which is less than the
price of the MC34063 ICs alone!
Data on the MC34063 can be downloaded from www.onsemi.com and
a useful development aid is to be
found at www.nomad.ee/micros/
mc34063a
Finally, note that not all chargers have an output filter capacitor
installed. Typically, this is a 220µF
10V or 16V electrolytic type. To
save a few cents, the manufacturers
sometimes leave this component
out, relying on the mobile’s battery
to perform the filtering task. If this
component is missing from your
charger’s PC board, it should be
installed before the supply is used.
Brad Sheargold,
Collaroy, NSW. ($35)
This two-transistor white noise generator has a surprising feature – about 30dB more noise than the more
traditional designs.
Q1 and Q2 can be any small-signal transistors with a
beta of up to 400. The reverse-biased emitter-base junction
of Q1 provides the noise source, which is fed into the base
of Q2. Q2 forms a simple amplifier with a gain of 45dB.
The improved output level is due mainly to the inclusion
of C1, which provides a low-impedance AC source to the
noise source while not disturbing the DC bias of Q1.
The low amount of feedback also makes this circuit
very resistant to oscillations and tolerant to circuit layout.
Unfortunately, the truism of “no such thing as free lunch”
also applies; C1 makes the circuit very sensitive to power
supply ripple.
David Eather,
Camp Hill, Qld. ($25)
January 2005 93
PICAXE-based toy
traffic lights with
battery saver
With help from a PICAXE-08
micro, this trivial circuit is all that’s
needed to build a nifty set of LED
toy traffic lights. The circuit and associated program also demonstrate
a technique to achieve long battery
life in circuits that must periodically monitor a port input.
Pushbutton switch S1 functions
as both a power switch and a user
input. When the unit is off, it can be
turned on by pressing and holding
S1 until all the LEDs come on (this
may take up to two seconds). While
the unit is operating, pressing the
button briefly reduces the “red”
period from 30 seconds to 3 seconds. Alternatively, pressing and
holding S1 for 3 seconds turns the
unit off. It also switches itself off
automatically if S1 is not pressed
for 5 minutes.
These functions are implemented in the program as follows:
When the unit is “off”, the program alternates between polling S1
and SLEEPing for 2 seconds. When
the unit is “on”, the program polls
S1 continually to determine the
amount of time it is pressed or not
pressed. If the preset time limit is
exceeded for either condition, the
unit goes into the “off” state.
Of particular interest is the
method used to terminate the 10kΩ
pull-down resistor for the switch
input. It is usual to connect one
end of this resistor to ground, so
that pressing the switch changes
the normally-low input on pin 3
(leg 4) to a high. However, with one
end of the resistor grounded, the
circuit would draw about 0.5mA
while S1 is pressed. If the switch
is continually held down, such
as might happen when the unit is
tossed into a toy box, the battery
would eventually run flat.
To eliminate current drain,
the resistor is connected to pin 4
(leg 3) of the PICAXE instead of
ground. This pin is programmed
as an output and set low while S1
is being polled. At other times, the
pin is set high so that no current
will flow regardless of whether S1
is pressed or not.
94 Silicon Chip
'----------------------------------------------------------------' PICAXE-08 Toy Traffic Lights with battery saver
'----------------------------------------------------------------'
' Periods are:
' red: 30 seconds without button press, or 3 seconds
'
after button press (up to 30 second maximum)
' green: 8 seconds
' amber: 3 seconds
'
' Features automatic power-off if the button isn’t pressed for
' 5 minutes. Turns on if button is held down for up to 2 seconds.
' Turns off if the button is held down for 3 seconds continuously.
'
' Hardware:
' pin 0 (leg 7) is GREEN (output)
' pin 1 (leg 6) is AMBER (output)
' pin 2 (leg 5) is RED (output)
' pin 3 (leg 4) is button S1 (input)
' pin 4 (leg 3) is pull-down (output)
' ----------------------------------------------------------------symbol red_signal
= %00000100
symbol amber_signal = %00000010
symbol green_signal = %00000001
symbol red_time
= 5400
symbol red_min_time = 800
'27 seconds
'minimum red time of 3 seconds; enforced
'even if button pressed during red period
'8 seconds
'3 seconds
symbol green_time
symbol amber_time
= 2200
= 800
symbol off_timeout
= 800
symbol idle_timeout
= 60000
'3 seconds: time button must be pressed to
'switch unit off
'5 minutes: time button must not be pressed for
'unit to auto switch off
symbol delay
= w2
'time parameter/variable for delay loops
symbol pressed
= w3
'1 if button pressed at last poll, 0 if button
'not pressed at last poll
symbol count
= w4
'number of consecutive polls before unit
'goes into the off state.
main:
let dirs = %00010111
' pin 0 is GREEN, pin 1 is AMBER, pin 2 is RED,
' pin 3 is button S1, pin 4 is pull-down
'----------------------------------------------------------------' The OFF state
'----------------------------------------------------------------' Wait until the button is not being pressed. This ensures the
' user has let go of the button after pressing it to turn the unit
' off. It also ensures that the unit does not power itself up if
' the button is held down continuously (eg. if it is placed in the
' toy box in a way that keeps the button pressed).
'----------------------------------------------------------------wait_no_press:
high 4
'disable pull-down
sleep 2
power_down:
let pins = %00000000
if pin3 = 1 then wait_no_press
'enable pull-down
' Wait in low power mode until the button is pressed for at most
' 2 seconds. Do this by sampling the button every 2 seconds with
' low-power sleeps in between until the button is found to be
' pressed.
wait_press:
high 4
sleep 2
let pins = %00000000
if pin3 = 0 then wait_press
'disable pull-down
'enable pull-down
siliconchip.com.au
let pins = %00010111
sleep 2
‘the button
'turn all LEDs on to indicate power-up
'give user time to see the lit LEDs and release
'----------------------------------------------------------------' The ON state
'----------------------------------------------------------------let count = 0
let pressed = 0
red:
let pins = red_signal
'not enough code space to have
'count=idle_timeout, but this is pretty close.
'precondition for poll subroutine.
'show RED signal
This technique can also be used
to reduce the standing current
consumption when analog input
devices such as LDRs must be periodically sampled.
The unit draws about 9uA in the
off state, even if S1 is pressed, so
the batteries should last for their
shelf life.
Andrew Partridge,
Kuranda, Qld.
' Wait for red_time or until button is pressed, whichever comes first.
let delay = red_time
wait_until_pressed:
gosub poll
if delay > 0 AND pressed = 0 then wait_until_pressed
let delay = red_min_time
gosub wait_period
'enforce minimum RED time
let pins = green_signal ‘show GREEN signal
let delay = green_time
gosub wait_period
let pins = amber_signal
let delay = amber_time
gosub wait_period
'show AMBER signal
goto red
'show RED signal and repeat
' wait_period waits for period determined by value of delay.
' Powers unit down if necessary.
'
' Precondition: delay > 0.
' Postcondition: delay = 0.
wait_period:
gosub poll
if delay > 0 then wait_period
return
' Check the state of the button and power the unit down if the button has not
' been pressed for idle_timeout consecutive polls, or if the button has been
' pressed for off_timeout consecutive polls. Also decrements delay.
poll:
let delay = delay - 1
pause 1
if pressed = pin3 then same
' Button has changed status since the last poll
pressed = 1 - pressed
' Set count to off_timeout if button is now pressed,
' or idle_timeout if button is now not pressed
count = off_timeout
if pressed = 1 then endif
count = idle_timeout
endif:
same:
count = count - 1
if count = 0 then power_down
return
siliconchip.com.au
January 2005 95
Silicon Chip
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Circuit Notebook – continued
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card number.
12V halogen
dimmer
I use a 12V 20W halogen lamp
(MR16) and a 4.2Ah SLA battery
for my bike light system. The battery has only limited life at this
power rating, so I designed this
cheap light dimmer to reduce the
battery drain and allow for longer
rides at night.
Based on a simple 555 timer
circuit and Mosfet switch Q1, it
works by pulse-width modulating
the 12V supply to the lamp. The
555 (IC1) is wired as a free-running
oscillator, with two different mark/
space ratios selectable via a 2-pole,
5-position rotary switch (S1).
The third switch position bypasses the electronic circuitry
and connects the lamp directly to
battery negative. This gives three
power levels of about 7W, 13W
and 20W.
A logic-level IRL530N Mosfet
with a drain-source “on” resistance
of only 0.1Ω ensures low losses and
eliminates the need for a heatsink.
An STP30NE06L Mosfet (Jaycar
Cat. ZT-2271) would also be suitable.
Mike Dennis,
Canberra, ACT. ($30)
Use this handy form
Enclosed is my cheque/money order for
$________ or please debit my
Bankcard
Visa Mastercard
Card No:
_________________________________
Card Expiry Date ____/____
Signature ________________________
Name ____________________________
Address__________________________
__________________ P/code_______
96 Silicon Chip
CONTRIBUTE
AND WIN!
As you can see, we pay good
money for each of the “Circuit
Notebook” contributions published in SILICON CHIP. But now
there’s an even better reason to
send in your circuit idea: each
month, the best contribution
published will win a superb
Peak Atlas LCR Meter valued
at $195.00.
So don’t keep that brilliant
circuit secret any more: sketch
it out, write a brief description
and send it to SILICON CHIP and
you could be a winner!
siliconchip.com.au
ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Write to: Ask Silicon Chip, PO Box 139, Collaroy Beach, NSW 2097; or
send an email to silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au
TV channel
audio receiver
Is there a dedicated chip that would
produce the audio from TV channels. I
wish to construct a Walkman-type unit
to receive the TV channels if possible.
(B. A., via email).
• The most direct approach would
be to adapt the tuner, IF and sound
stages from a VCR. We don’t know
of any chipset that would do the job.
4-channel lighting
desk/dimmer
In the 4-Channel Lighting Desk/
Dimmer article (June/July, 1991),
you specify 4 x Teccor Q6040J7 40A
600V insulated tab Triacs from NSD.
Do you know where I can get these
or an equivalent device? (A. W., via
email).
• The Triacs are 40A 600V insulated tab types in the TO-218 package. The BTA41-600B is a suitable
replacement and is available from
Farnell Electronic Components at
www.farnellinone.com.au – phone
1300 361 005. The part number is
505-778 and the cost is $20.99 each
plus 10% GST plus delivery.
Fan cooling
does not work
I built the thermostatic switch for
car radiator fans some years ago from
the March 1992 edition of SILICON
CHIP. It works as advertised. Can you
advise what the approximate current
draw should be for the control circuit?
The reason that I wish to know is that
I have the unit wired direct from the
battery so as to provide cooling when
the engine is turned off. (F. W., Airport
West, Vic).
• The circuit will draw around
100mA on standby so it is not suitable
for permanent connection to the battery. Perhaps a thermostat switch (eg,
Jaycar ST-3836) that closes at 100°C
and reopens at around 85°C could be
used to switch a relay and drive the fan
for the purpose of running when the
ignition is off. In this way the current
would be zero when the thermostat
is off.
Note that running the radiator fan
when the engine is off does not help
cool the engine since the coolant is not
flowing. If you want to do that (and
we cannot see why it’s worth doing),
you would need an auxiliary electricpowered water pump to circulate the
fluid while the fans are running.
Courtesy light delay
modifications
I recently purchased and constructed the Car Courtesy Light Delay kit as
published in the June 2004 edition. I’d
like to apply this kit to another application, powering two 20W light globes.
Will the kit require any modifications
to permit this load to be carried? In
addition, I would like to slow down
the speed of the dimming effect. What
components will I need to change? (C.
J., via email).
• The Mosfet will require heatsinking
with a small piece of aluminium or
a commercial 10°C/watt type. The
470µF and 47µF capacitors need to be
increased proportionally in size for a
longer delay. Use 1000µF and 100µF
Help Needed With PIC Programmer
I have purchased a PIC/EEPROM
Programmer kit from the September
2003 issue. I have had a little programming experience with PICs a
few years ago but have found it difficult to get started using the IC-Prog
programming software suggested in
the magazine.
Can I use the MPLAB IDE free
from microchip.com to program
with this hardware? This would
solve my problems, since I am familiar with it.
The help menu that comes with
IC-Prog doesn’t really show the nuts
and bolts of how to get your source
code into the PIC. Does it need to be
compiled, etc? And where can I find
a list of programming commands?
Any help from you would be apsiliconchip.com.au
preciated. (C. A., Nelson, NZ).
• IC-Prog doesn’t include any
project tools, such as an editor, assembler or compiler. It is designed
to load the files generated by these
tools (in .HEX format) and write the
results into the PIC’s memory, ready
for use in the application circuit.
This is quite separate from the
work you need to do writing the
application program. If you prefer
to program in assembly language,
the tools provided free with MPLAB
are ideal for the job. MPLAB can
be set up to generate a “.HEX” file
whenever you assemble a program
that you’ve written using the builtin editor.
So it’s a 3-step process: (1) write
your PIC program in MPLAB’s
editor; (2) assemble your program
using MPLAB’s assembler; and (3)
load the .HEX file (from MPLAB)
into IC-Prog and write it to the PIC’s
code (FLASH) memory.
If you prefer to program in “BASIC” or “C” rather than assembler,
then you’ll need a suitable compiler.
A variety of offerings are available
on the net. As good place to start
looking is www.dontronics.com/
piclinks.html. Compilers can also
be set up to generate “.HEX” file
output, which once again is loaded
into IC-Prog and programmed into
the PIC.
The complete instruction set for
the particular PICs you’re using are
listed in the data sheets, available
from www.microchip.com
January 2005 97
Sensor Circuit For Solar Hot Water
I’m interested in a sensing circuit
for a solar hot water system. With
all the discussion recently about
more efficient use of electricity,
solar hot water heating must surely
be bene-ficial.
I have a huge off-peak hot water
system under my house in Queensland that simply refuses to die and
until that happens, I’m reluctant to
pay the money for a full solar hot
water system. A compromise is to
buy the solar hot water panels and
by means of a small heat-resisting
pump (12V or 240V) circulate the
water through the existing tank.
This would involve two sensors,
one in the panels on the roof and
one in the outlet of the hot water
system. When the panel sensor is
hotter than the outlet sensor, the
pump would operate.
This may involve the pump starting and stopping frequently due to
temperature fluctuations – perhaps
a delay circuit may be needed or a
very small output pump may do.
I have a few comments on solar
hot water systems. They are overly
complicated by their “one size fits
all” design. For example, most
solar systems have frost protection systems to prevent the panels
freezing and then bursting pipes.
This is not needed in coastal and
northern areas of Queensland. You
can imagine the complications of
heat exchangers and panels with
anti-freeze in them.
for double the delay, then use trimpot
VR1 to adjust the time.
Large seconds readout
for Big Digit Clock
I’m thinking about building the Big
Digit 12/24hr Clock from the March
2001 issue but I want to use large
7-segment displays (same as the hours
and minutes) for the seconds readout.
In the article, it mentions that the LED
current for the displays is under software control. I am presuming that in
the original design configuration, the
small “seconds” displays are driven
with lower current levels.
98 Silicon Chip
Even with the rebates, the system
is still quite expensive. Most solar
sales people are turned off by any
suggestion that their products be
adapted to suit the user – I’ve tried to
talk to them and they’re monumentally disinterested. Can you provide
me with a sensing circuit to do the
job? (P. B., via email).
• We don’t think that connecting
solar collectors to an existing hot
water system is at all simple. Frost
protection may not seem necessary
in many very temperate areas where
overnight temperatures do not go
below freezing. However, even so, it
is apparently quite common for roof
and solar collector temperatures
to go down to only a few degrees
above freezing and then a circulation pump immediately cuts in. You
would need to include this.
By the time you calculate the cost
of panels, installation, extra plumbing, pumps, sensors, etc, we don’t
think it is worthwhile.
By the way, if your hot water system is mains-pressure and less than
10 years old, you should have the
sacrificial anode replaced. This will
typically cost less than $200 and
will give your tank many more years
– an environmental and economic
plus! Most mains-pressure systems
fail prematurely because the sacrificial anode has not been replaced.
Ideally, this should be done every
five years or so, particularly in those
areas with soft water supplies.
If I was to use large displays for the
seconds, would the software have to
be changed to accommodate them? I
would still like to use the dimming
feature. (S. W., via email).
• You can use the same LED limiting
resistors for the seconds digits as those
used for the large digits. No software
changes are necessary.
Current transformer for
appliance measurement
I read the entire article on “Current
Clamp Meter Adaptor for DMMs” in
the September 2003 issue. I want to
simply read the current from my 60Hz
power line. Is there a way to read 0.2A
to 100A using a simple version of your
device? I don’t want to add the Hall
Effect device and the circuitry.
Any advice or help or web pages that
you can point me to will help. (A. F.,
Fresno, Ca, USA).
• The toroid can be used in the clamp
as normal. However, if the Hall effect
sensor is not used, wind on many turns
around it to allow current measurement. This will turn it into a simple
current transformer. The wire enclosed
by the clamp/toroid then becomes a
half-turn primary.
To make measurements, use the AC
volts range on your multimeter. The
number of turns can be determined by
checking the reading against a known
current; eg, a bar radiator which draws
a consistent current when hot.
Background music
too loud on DVDs
Having only one functional ear,
and that one 85 years old, I find it
difficult to distinguish spoken words
from over-loud “background” (really
“foreground”) music when watching
DVDs. Is there any filter system which
can reduce the sound level of music
without affecting speech?
Turning the sound off and relying on
subtitles is a very low-tech solution.
I do find some improvement by using
headphones instead of the TV speakers. (R. S., Armidale, NSW).
• Many people find the level of music accompanying a lot of programs
quite distracting, even though they
may have pretty good ears. One way
to partially solve this is to switch over
to mono. This kills some of the stereo
music signal. Most TVs these days
enable you to do this.
We don’t think tone filtering will
have much effect, although you
might try cutting the bass and treble
response. Again, many modern TVs
allow you to tailor the bass and treble
response.
Turbo Timer
switch modification
I have just built the Turbo Timer
featured in the November 1998 issue.
I would like to be able to manually
switch the timer off; ie, disable the
timing function. Would the circuit
be OK if I replaced the momentary
reset switch provided in the kit with
siliconchip.com.au
Balanced Microphone Preamp Query
I’m looking for a microphone
preamp for loudspeaker measurements and your design in the August 2004 issue looks interesting.
However, I have a few questions.
The frequency response is quoted
at -3dB between 30Hz & 19kHz.
Is there any way of extending the
top end?
How flat is the response? Is it
as flat as shown in the chart or is
this a simplified curve? If I were to
insert a tone control bypass switch,
would it go before or after the 2.2µF
capacitor that sits between the tone
control circuit and IC1b? (P. M., via
email).
a 2-position one? Example: the switch
is depressed (open) for normal timing
operation, and released (closed) to disable the timing function. Or would it
be better to connect a secondary line
to the same input on the PC board as
the thermistor?
Or perhaps I should use a switch
in the line from the ignition switch
or battery? Any comments on the best
possible solution would be greatly appreciated. (J. K., via email).
• Replacing the momentary reset
switch with a toggle type would work.
In fact, any of your suggestions would
work.
Variable speed
induction motor control
I have noted in your Reference
Bookshop, a title, “Practical Variable
Speed Drives & Power Electronics”
and am wondering how practical and
economic this would be as a source
of information for building a variable
speed drive for an induction motor?
I require a reasonably economic controller (less than $200) for an induction
motor rated at 300W, to drive a small
lathe/mill. I have built the 10A controller for brush type motors (SILICON
CHIP, November 1997) which works
very well on a range of portable power
tools I own, however this is unsuitable
for induction motors.
Have you considered this type of
controller as a magazine project or, as I
suspect, are there too many design difficulties or variables to produce a “unisiliconchip.com.au
•
The frequency response may be
extended slightly by changing the
220pF capacitor across pins 6 and
7 of IC2a to 100pF. The frequency
response is flat, as shown in the
purple curve in Fig.2 of the article,
when the equaliser controls are set
to mid settings.
A bypass loop can be installed
between pin 1 of IC1b and the signal
going from pin 7 of IC2a to the following circuit. In other words, you
would need a switch to select either
the pin 7 output of IC2a or pin 1 of
IC1b and then feed the signal from
the switch to the circuitry involving IC2b.
versal” type controller for a variety of
induction motor ratings? I have found
it difficult (read impossible) to obtain
either new or secondhand brush type
motors of say 300W or above rating,
but note that induction motors of this
rating or above are reasonably plentiful from larger discarded household
appliances (washing machines, etc).
Any suggestions would be greatly
appreciated. (G. H., via email).
• We do not have any plans to publish an induction motor controller. We
regard the engineering problems as too
complex for us to solve, without making a very large investment in time.
The book on variable speed drives
gives lots of useful information but
is not enough for anyone to go ahead
and produce a viable design. However,
since your motor is only rated at 300W,
it may be possible to get a satisfactory
result using a fan speed controller such
as the circuit published in the January
1990 issue.
One other approach might be to
adapt the brush motor and gearbox
from a large electric drill. These can
be quite cheap to buy and you could
drive it with the abovementioned 10A
speed control.
Surge currents and
the Energy Meter
The Energy Meter kit from the July &
August 2004 issues is just what I have
been looking for but before I put it to
use I have a question. The primary use
will be to monitor a Davey pressure
Tribotix
Specialising in Robotic
and Electronic Equipment
Ph: (02) 49430146
Fx: (02) 49578244
We offer a unique range of serially
controlled motors, suitable for robotics
and conventional servo replacements.
Ideal for hobbyists to researchers.
Megarobotics - AI modules
- 31 modules per channel
- Position Control mode
- Rotatioinal mode
- High Torque (upto 10kg.cm)
The serial channel allows the
modules P and D gains to be
changed as well the ability to
read the shaft’s position and
the modules current draw.
Robotis - Dynamixel modules
- RS485 controlled Servo
- 254 modules per channel
- Baud Rate 9600bps~1Mbps
- 300o Positioning (10bit res.)
- Swiss MAXON motor
- Large Torque (up to 33kg.cm)
The serial channel allows each modules
compliance driving parameters to be
changed. The modules position, load and
temperature may also be read.
email: sales<at>tribotix.com
Web: www.tribotix.com
pump system rated as 220/240VAC
7.2A 1.1kW although an analog clamp
meter indicates only 5A when running.
As it is an induction motor, I would
expect the starting current to be around
20A for a very short period.
Please advise if the meter can handle
this surge current without damage,
even if it is repeated every five to
ten minutes on occasions. (R. C., via
email).
• The Energy Meter can handle the
higher current for the short motor
starting time. It will also measure this
power and energy accurately without
overload.
Eliminating distortion
from Widgy Box
I am about to start construction on
your SC480 amplifier (SILICON CHIP,
January & February 2003) and will require a preamp for guitar. I have opted
for the Widgy Box (May 2003). How
do I modify the Widgy Box circuit to
leave out the distortion altogether, so
as to use it only as a preamp? (B. G.,
via email).
• To chop out distortion, omit diJanuary 2005 99
Valve Preamp Supply Overheats
I have used two 12AX7 valve
preamp modules (November 2003)
to construct a balanced microphone
input to balanced line output
preamp. The problem is that the
switching FET overheats after about
five minutes, even with a larger
heatsink. Regulation is fine, as is
the audio quality.
There is a healthy amount of
“frizzle” in the audio but not
enough to suggest a fault condition,
as far as I can tell. There is an audible “chattering” mixed in with the
frizzle coming from the transformer.
Placing a finger near or on the
FET will increase the frizzle and
decrease the chattering but has
little or no effect on regulation or
overheating. I am wondering if
there may be a switching problem,
odes D1 & D2 and reduce the gain of
IC1b by changing the 39kΩ resistor
to 10kΩ; change the 150pF capacitor
to 560pF.
PowerUp
turn-off delay
I have completed the PowerUp kit
from the July 2003 issue and everything is functioning perfectly. I use
the unit in the workshop to activate
a dust extractor. However, I require a
turn-off delay on the slave output of
at least two seconds after the main appliance is turned off, so that the dust
extractor continues.
possibly a secondary frequency,
causing the FET to overheat? What
size heatsink should suffice for the
switching FET to drive two modules? (I. D., Leongatha, Vic).
• You should be able to drive a pair
of 12AX7 preamp stages with the
specified 19mm U-shaped heatsink
on the switching FET, without it
overheating.
The fact that your FET is seriously overheating suggests that it is
not being switched correctly. This
may be due to some sort of parasitic
oscillation, as you suggest, or perhaps something simpler, like driver
transistors Q1 and Q2 having been
accidentally swapped. Or perhaps
one of the electrolytic capacitors has
been accidentally fitted the wrong
way around.
A simple RC time constant will
suffice. As the circuit is very stable, I
didn’t want to fiddle but rather ask the
experts. (M. B., via email).
• A turn-off delay can be obtained
by connecting a 100µF electrolytic
capacitor between the base of Q1 and
the 0V rail. In addition, the 4.7kΩ resistor feeding the base of Q1 needs to
be connected in series with a 1N4148
diode (anode towards pin 7 of IC2a and
cathode end towards the base of Q1).
A resistor across the 10µF capacitor will adjust the time that the relay
stays on after power is disconnected
on the master appliance. Try a value
SC
of 1MΩ.
Notes & Errata
Balanced Microphone Preamp,
August 2004: Fig.3 on page 46
shows the 3-pin regulator (REG1)
in the wrong way around. It
should be mounted so that the
metal tab faces away from D4.
PICAXE-Controlled Battery
Charger, September 2004: a subroutine has been labelled Count.
This is a reserved word, causing
the compiler to stop with a line
error. A simple fix is to change
“count” to “counter” in the “red”
subroutine and also the label for
the “count” routine (two places
only).
Garage Door Remote Controller,
October 2004: the circuit diagram (page 78) shows the 10µF
capacitor connected to IC2c (pin
10) with reverse polarity. Also,
diode D10 and the 220kΩ resistor
connected between this pin and
+5V should in fact be connected
between IC2d’s input (pins 12 &
13) and +5V. The overlay diagram
on page 79 is correct.
Under “Circuit description”
on page 77, the text refers to IC4
in one place instead of IC1. Also,
the second paragraph on page 79
incorrectly describes the operation of the monostable circuit. It
should read: “The counter (IC1)
can be disabled by holding its OE
input (pin 13) at +5V. The output
of the monostable comprising
Schmitt NAND gates IC2c & IC2d
is normally low, thus enabling
the counter to clock”.
WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage.
All such projects should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely. Readers are warned that high
voltage wiring should be carried out according to the instructions in the articles. When working on these projects
use extreme care to ensure that you do not accidentally come into contact with mains AC voltages or high voltage
DC. If you are not confident about working with projects employing mains voltages or other high voltages, you are
advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd disclaims any liability for damages should
anyone be killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue of SILICON CHIP magazine.
Devices or circuits described in SILICON CHIP may be covered by patents. SILICON CHIP disclaims any liability
for the infringement of such patents by the manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also
disclaims any liability for projects which are used in such a way as to infringe relevant government regulations
and by-laws.
Advertisers are warned that they are responsible for the content of all advertisements and that they must conform to the Trade Practices Act 1974 or as subsequently amended and to any governmental regulations which are
applicable.
100 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
MARKET CENTRE
Cash in your surplus gear. Advertise it here in Silicon Chip.
FOR SALE
Penguin temperature and humidity
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N1500 universal process indicator.
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Labjack USB Data Acquisition Module features 8 12bit analog inputs, 20
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DAS005 Parallel Port Data Acquisition
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To run your classified ad, print it clearly in the space below or on a separate
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January 2005 101
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Tel: 02 9939 4377 or 9939 4378.
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book. Available from Rodney Champness, 6 Mundoona Court, Mooroopna,
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COLLECTION OF ELECTRONICS
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102 Silicon Chip
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email: youngbob<at>silvertone.com.au
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Full details on web site. Credit cards
accepted.
GRANTRONICS PTY LTD, PO Box 275,
Wentworthville 2145. (02) 9896 7150 or
http://www.grantronics.com.au
STOCK REDUCTION SALE: Every
Friday 12pm to 5pm. Electronic components, switches, LEDs, displays,
enclosures, connectors, crystals, relays,
neons and many more. At Switches
Plus Components, Unit 1 - 2 Sibthorpe
Street, Braeside, Victoria. Phone (03)
9587 4044.
WEATHER STATIONS: windspeed &
direction, inside temperature, outside
temperature & windchill. Records highs
& lows with time and date as they occur.
Optional rainfall and PC interface. Used
by government departments, farmers,
pilots and weather enthusiasts. Other
models with barometric pressure, humidity, dew point, solar radiation, UV,
leaf wetness, etc. Just phone, fax or write
for our FREE catalog and price list. Eco
Watch phone: (03) 9761 7040; fax: (03)
9761 7050; Unit 5, 17 Southfork Drive,
Kilsyth, Vic. 3137. ABN 63 006 399 480.
CENTRAL COAST FIELD DAY, Sunday 20th February. Don’t miss Australia’s biggest Amateur Radio exhibition
and sale of new and used radio and
communication equipment at Wyong
Race Course, just 1 hour north from
siliconchip.com.au
Advertising Index
Why not do something you love and get paid for it? Please
write or email us with your details, along with your C.V.
and any qualifications you may have. We pay a
competitive salary, sales commissions and have great
benefits like a liberal staff purchase policy.
Airmarine Australia.......................47
Send to:
Retail Operations Manager - Jaycar Electronics Pty Ltd
P.O. Box 6424 Silverwater NSW 1811
Email: jobs<at>jaycar.com.au
Altronics................................. 72-75
Jaycar Electronics is an equal opportunity employer and
actively promotes staff from within the organisation.
Alternative Technology Assoc......81
Av-Comm...................................102
Dick Smith Electronics........... 18-23
Eco Watch..................................103
Elexol...........................................39
Evatco..........................................83
Freenet Antennas.......................102
Grantronics.................................103
Harbuch Electronics.....................57
Hy-Q International........................59
Instant PCBs..............................103
Sydney. Gates open 8.30 a.m. Special
Field Day bargains from traders and
tons of disposals gear in the flea market. Exhibits by clubs and groups with
interests ranging from vintage radio,
packet radio, scanning, amateur TV
and satellite. www.ccarc.org.au. Ph
(02) 4340 2500.
Jaycar ..................49-56,59,103,IFC
MISCELLANEOUS
NewTek Instruments.....................41
HAWKESBURY COMMUNITY COLLEGE: Advanced Electronics and
Introductory Robotics Course, Enrolments January 2005, details at www.
ozemail.com.au/~mkabriel and at
www.hawkesburycommunitycollege.
com.au
Prime Electronics.........................81
KIT ASSEMBLY
NEVILLE WALKER KIT ASSEMBLY
& REPAIR:
• Australia wide service
• Small production runs
• Specialist “one-off” applications
Phone Neville Walker (07) 3857 2752
Email: flashdog<at>optusnet.com.au
WANTED
WANTED: EARLY HIFIs, AMPLIFIERS, Speakers, Turntables, Valves,
Books, Quad, Leak, Pye, Lowther,
Ortofon, SME, Western Electric, Altec, Marantz, McIntosh, Goodmans,
Wharfedale, Tannoy, radio and wireless.
Collector/Hobbyist will pay cash. (02)
9440 1267. johnmurt<at>highprofile.
com.au
JED Microprocessors................5,59
Microgram Computers....................3
MicroZed Computers....................45
Oatley Electronics........................33
Ozitronics.....................................58
Quest Electronics..................59,102
RCS Radio.................................101
RF Probes....................................87
Silicon Chip Bookshop........... 90-91
SC Car Projects Book..............OBC
Perfomance Elec. For Cars...96,IBC
Silicon Chip Subscriptions...........65
Silvertone Electronics................102
Speakerbits................................102
Taig Machinery...........................102
Telelink Communications.............59
Tribotix..........................................99
VAF Australia................................61
____________________________
PC Boards
Printed circuit boards for SILICON
CHIP projects are made by:
RCS Radio Pty Ltd. Phone (02) 9738
0330. Fax (02) 9738 0334.
January 2005 103
From the publishers of
The Lat
SILICON
s
t
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n
o
C
UND
TECH BACKGRO
Intelligent
turbo timer
I SBN 095852294 - 4
TURBO BOOST
& nitrous fuel controllers
9 780958 522946
$19.80 (inc GST) NZ $22.00 (inc GST)
How engine
management works
We’ll let the
contents speak
for themselves:
Not a reprint – new projects and articles not
published before
Learn how engine management works
Build projects to control nitrous, fuel injection
and turbo boost systems
Switch devices on and off on the basis of signal
frequency, temperature and voltage
Build test instruments to check fuel injector
duty cycle, fuel mixture and brake and coolant
temperatures
P L U S L O T S MORE
104 Silicon Chip
t
Managemen
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di
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engine sy
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36 CHAP
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a few
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voltage
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eter
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40 CHAP make do without a multim
can’t
You
resistance
current and
INSTRUMENTS
Meter
modes
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TER 8: Sm
42 CHAP ur car’s fuel mixtures in re -load “lean-out” occurs
if a high
Track yo
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of the ECU an
Cycle Meter
devices o
jector Duty cycles or use it to switch
In
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9
R
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50 CHA monitor fuel injector du
Digitally
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off at differe
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m
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58 CHAP
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3: Temperajustable design that can wo
1
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24
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ICS FOR CA
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PERFORMANC
siliconchip.com.au
S
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test From
CHIP
off
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82 CHAP eap adjustable design lets
This ch
speed
according to
Timer
ta Throttle on and off, based on how
es
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86 CHAP tricky way of turning devic
A really
iving
ally you’re dr
enthusiastic
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anding Engi
s – p.6
ONTROLLERS
MODIFIERS & C
Controller
LCD Hand
– p.105
r
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Speedo Co
– p.129
r
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to reduce t
: Digital Pul noids in your car – use it extra fuel in
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Advanced
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Smart Mix
Meter – p.42
Capacitor
: Resistor &
ENDUM
160 ADD
Codes
om Jaycar
The Kits
available fr
and. See
Ze
Where To Buyoject described in this Abousoktralariae an
d New al
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details.
Kits for ev
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p.50
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or Duty Cy
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om.au
siliconchip.c
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t Controlle
Turbo Boos
– p.134
Turbo
Intelligent
4
Timer – p.15
om.au
siliconchip.c
Order direct from SILICON CHIP Publications
Price: Aust. $A22.50 (inc. GST & p&p); Overseas $A26.00 (inc. p&p via airmail). Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd,
PO Box 139 Collaroy, NSW, Australia 2097. Phone (02) 9939 3295; Fax (02) 9939 2649. Email silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
January 2005 105
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