This is only a preview of the July 2005 issue of Silicon Chip. You can view 37 of the 104 pages in the full issue, including the advertisments. For full access, purchase the issue for $10.00 or subscribe for access to the latest issues. Articles in this series:
Items relevant to "Remote-Controlled Automatic Table Lamp Dimmer":
Items relevant to "Lead-Acid Battery Zapper":
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SILICON
CHIP
Australia’s
World-Class
Electronics
Magazine!
JULY 2005
7
$ 90*
INC GST
ISSN 1030-2662
07
NZ $ 8 75
INC GST
PRINT POST APPROVED
- PP255003/01272
9 771030 266001
UNLEASHING
UNWIRED:
We show you how
to add an external
hi-gain antenna!
CAR BATTERY
ZAPPER:
Get extra life from
your tired old
lead-acid battery!
STEPPER
CONTROLLER:
Serial control from
your PC – easy to
build and drive!
GETTING
INTO WIFI:
Access points,
power over ethernet
& more!
Our all-new, very clever
remote-controlled
table lamp dimmer
siliconchip.com.au
July 2005 1
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
Contents
Vol.18, No.7; July 2005
www.siliconchip.com.au
FEATURES
8 Getting Into WiFi, Pt.3
Infrastructure, access points (APs), power over ethernet (PoE) and much
more – by Ross Tester
13 CeBIT Sydney 2005
Everything you’ve ever wanted in the world of computers and IT in one place.
Here’s a brief look – by Ross Tester
14 Unleashing Unwired
Unleashing Unwired – Page 14.
It is possible to connect an external antenna to an Unwired modem for extra
speed and range. We show you how – by Ross Tester
68 PICAXE In Schools, Pt.3
Sensing temperature and playing mobile phone ring tones – by Clive Seager
80 Review: Altronics 250W Aussie-Made PA Amplifier
Need a high-power PA amplifier with lots of features? You’d go a long way to
better this one – by Ross Tester
PROJECTS TO BUILD
24 Remote-Controlled Automatic Table Lamp Dimmer
It automatically dims up or down between two preset levels or you can
manually control the lamp brightness, all via remote control – by John Clarke
38 Lead-Acid Battery Zapper
Remote-Controlled Automatic
Table Lamp Dimmer – Page 24.
Rejuvenate old batteries by zapping them with high-voltage pulses to dissolve
the lead sulphate crystals on the plates – by Jim Rowe
60 Serial Stepper Motor Controller
It’s easy to build, easy to program and controls up to four motors. Or cascade
four units together to control up to 16 motors – by Greg Radion
84 AVR200 Single Board Computer, Pt.2
Second article has the assembly details and describes popular software
development and programming options – by Ed Schoell
SPECIAL COLUMNS
35 Salvage It!
Salvaging & using common thermostats – by Julian Edgar
Lead-Acid Battery
Zapper – Page 38.
44 Serviceman’s Log
Computer servicing can be a hard slog – by the TV Serviceman
72 Circuit Notebook
(1) Simple IR Remote Control Extender; (2) Improved Stability For Dr Video;
(3) Cordless Drill Auto-Charger; (4) RGB-to-Component Video Converter Fix;
(5) Using A Transistor As a High-Power Zener; (6) Low-Voltage Mains Switch
90 Vintage Radio
The 1951 AWA 433MCZ 4-Valve Battery Receiver – by Rodney Champness
DEPARTMENTS
2
4
17
57
Publisher’s Letter
Mailbag
Book Review
Product Showcase
siliconchip.com.au
67
98
101
103
Order Form
Ask Silicon Chip
Market Centre
Ad Index
Serial Stepper Motor
Controller – Page 60.
July 2005 1
SILICON
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Publisher & Editor-in-Chief
Leo Simpson, B.Bus., FAICD
Production Manager
Greg Swain, B.Sc.(Hons.)
Technical Editor
Peter Smith
Technical Staff
John Clarke, B.E.(Elec.)
Ross Tester
Jim Rowe, B.A., B.Sc, VK2ZLO
Reader Services
Ann Jenkinson
Advertising Enquiries
Lawrence Smith
Benedictus Smith Pty Ltd
Phone (02) 9211 8035
Fax: (02) 9211 0068
lawrence<at>benedictus-smith.com
Regular Contributors
Brendan Akhurst
Rodney Champness, VK3UG
Julian Edgar, Dip.T.(Sec.), B.Ed,
Grad.Dip.Jnl
Mike Sheriff, B.Sc, VK2YFK
Stan Swan
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2 Silicon Chip
Publisher’s Letter
Low-cost digital cameras no
match for 35mm equivalents
Have you been considering a change to a digital
camera? You’ve seen all the hype, everybody’s
doing it and perhaps you are getting the strong
message that your old faithful 35mm camera is
just “old hat” and nobody who is anybody would
be seen dead with that old clunker!” That is how
it was with me and my techno-savvy daughters
who thought it was time I “got with it”. Of course,
at SILICON CHIP we have been using a high-end
Nikon digital camera for some time now, so I do
know the capabilities of digital cameras, or so I thought.
And since I was about to depart on a world trip, I was seriously thinking
about getting a compact digital camera to substitute for my old favourite SLR
camera which is rather heavy and not one you can “point and shoot”.
So I did a quick survey and it quickly came down to a choice between a
Fuji Finepix S3500 and an Olympus C725. I wanted something I would be
reasonably happy with and that my wife could operate easily without a long
and tedious study of an instruction book.
Both cameras look like miniature 35mm SLR cameras but they’re not. They
are both reasonably compact and do not have buttons and controls which are
so small that a mature (!) male has difficulty using them. And they both have
good optical zoom ranges which is important when you’re taking photos as
a tourist. In the metal, the Fuji proved to be a lot bulkier than the Olympus
although it is probably the better unit. So since I was travelling, I chose the
Olympus. Unfortunately, you cannot try them in the store and that is a trap.
And I had to buy bigger memory cards because the supplied 16MB is only
good for about 20 shots.
So I got it home and put it all together, spent an hour with the instructions
and turned it on to take some shots.
First problem is the LCD screen and viewfinder. The LCD screen is fine but
try to use it outdoors for picture composition and it becomes very difficult,
especially in bright sun when you need to use sunglasses. Alternatively, you
try to use the LCD viewfinder but its pixels are so coarse that it is really not
possible to tell whether the image is sharply in focus or not. In practice, the
viewfinder needs to be optical (most are) rather than LCD.
In fact, focus is a problem, because in the normal automatic mode, it has
aperture priority which means that the aperture is normally wide open at
f2.8 (with shutter speed setting the exposure). That means that depth of field
is always poor. Minimum aperture is f7, by the way. And then I found that I
could not focus manually! Other than that, digital cameras require so much
paraphernalia that you need to carry when on an overseas trip: extra memory
cards, battery charger, USB cable, memory card reader, extra batteries, etc.
Ultimately, I decided that the almost $500 I had spent was not a good
photographic package and certainly nothing like equivalent to a 35mm SLR
camera purchased for the same money.
So what to do? I took the Olympus back and instead purchased a small
automatic 35mm camera with a good zoom and automatic focus, for just over
$100. It’s a simple “point and shoot” camera. And for under $25, I purchased
enough film for 200 photos. My wife loves it.
I will buy a digital camera, eventually. But not yet. By the way, it now looks
as though a much better choice, for not much more money, would have been
a Fuji E550. So there you go.
Leo Simpson
siliconchip.com.au
Innovative • Unique • Interesting • Hard to find products
What’s New?
Digital & Analogue TV Tuner
8 Port
Serial PCI card
RFID Controller
Easily add serial ports to your
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Cat 2657-7
$670
A RFID controller suitable for
security applications.
Featuring a LCD display and
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Cat 1008143-7
$549
PCI Printer Port
Add another printer port or
replace a faulty port with this
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Cat 2618-7
$69
A unique TV tuner card that can receive the older Analogue
transmissions and newer DVB-T digital TV transmissions.
The card also has an RCA input and the PC can be switched
on and off with the included remote control.
Cat 3567-7 $199
DVI KVM Switch
Control two DVI PCs with the one
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Cat 11663-7 $169
SMS I/O Controller
Front Access Bay
Never reach behind your PC
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Attach this unit to any existing
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Switch any electrical device on or off using
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Cat 17087-7 $1029
Bluetooth Barcode Scanner
A CCD cordless scanner that uses Bluetooth. Comes with
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Cat 1008178-7 $799
MicroGram Computers
ask<at>mgram.com.au • 02 4389 8444 • www.mgram.com.au
Product of the month
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12v Mini PC
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This mini barebones PC is based on the VIA Eden
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Mini Keyboard
This 80 key mini keyboard is
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Cat 8403-7
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FireWire 800 Card
PCMCIA to Serial
Add two serial ports to your
notebook.
Cat 2726-7
$269
Add high speed FireWire B to
your PC with this PCI card.
Also has a legacy FireWire
400 port.
Cat 2998-7
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Video to VGA
Display any Composite or
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monitor.
Cat 3479-7
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EPROM
Programmer
This programmer connects to
the LPT port and has a 32 pin
ZIF socket. It will program
from 16k to 8M.
Cat 3159-7
$479
MicroGram Computers
Dealer inquiries
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info<at>mgram.com.au
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All prices subject to change without notice. For current pricing visit our website. Pictures are indicative only.
July 2005 3
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Need a VoIP Solution? Visit mgram.com.au for information and options
MAILBAG
No power switch for
the TwinTen amplifier
I have read the article in the February 2005 issue on the TwinTen amplifier. One thing struck me as a bit
strange, especially with your fixation
about turning things off when not in
use – it doesn’t have a power switch.
To turn it off you either have to pull
the power connector out of the back
panel or turn it off at the wall GPO.
With the intended use of this project
as a kids’ auxiliary amplifier, it will
run all the time unless one method or
the other is used to shut it off and if
other kids’ bedrooms are like my kids,
the wall socket is “buried”.
Sure, a power switch in the lowvoltage AC circuit will not turn off
the power pack but at least it will cut
current draw to that which is the idle
current of the plugpack.
I also am slightly bemused by the
comment that this amplifier performed
well on your staff member’s “huge”
stereo. I would not expect otherwise
if this person’s speakers were reasonably efficient – say in the order of
98dB/1W/1m). Any small amplifier
will do well on speakers of this type. In
the “olden days”, pro speaker systems
had efficiencies of 105dB/1W/1m) and
they filled a whole auditorium full of
people with just 50W.
However, when amplifiers are connected to today’s rather abysmally
inefficient speakers, an amplifier with
this output runs out of “puff” really
quickly.
Please don’t get me wrong. The
intended purpose of this amplifier is
fully understood and I’m not knocking
it; I just wanted to point out a couple
of things. As an auxiliary amplifier,
your new design is just what the doctor ordered . . . however, you can’t
turn it off!
Brad Sheargold,
via email.
Comment: as indicated in the article,
the TwinTen was presented as a project
for high school and college students.
Many such schools will not let their
students build anything with mains
wiring in it, so using a plugpack is the
only practical approach.
4 Silicon Chip
Certainly, running the plugpack
continuously is a waste of electricity.
And it does go against our philosophy of turning everything off because
as you point out, laziness will mean
that many such units will always be
plugged in and never turned off.
If people want to, it would be reasonably straightforward to install a
miniature toggle switch near the AC
input socket but as you point out, that
still leaves the plugpack powered up.
The TwinTen was tried with reasonably efficient loudspeaker (90dB/1W/1m)
in a very large listening room.
PICAXE could be
the death of logic
I have recently noticed the number of projects containing PICAXE
components unnecessarily. In days
past, these would have used a logic
circuit. To prove my point, I built the
recently featured circuit for connecting two phones but used logic instead.
It worked a treat.
The same treatment can also be applied to other PICAXE circuits. Save
the PICAXE for complicated circuits
and use logic for the simple circuits.
Otherwise in time, logic will be forgotten and everything will have to have
programs before it will work, whereas
with logic no program is required.
G. Moore,
Warialda, NSW.
Comment: we have produced quite a
few projects with the PICAXE because
it is easy to program and enables beginners to produce quite complicated
circuit functions with very few components. Certainly, logic circuits can still
produce good results but in most cases,
the PICAXE can do it more cheaply.
Saving a Beta VCR
from the tip
I have a Sanyo Betacord video recorder which I am loath to just put
out for recycling where it will no
doubt be trashed. If any of your readers are interested in it, it is a model
VTC 9300PN. I can be contacted at
datgrays<at>smartchat.net.au
Dave Williams,
via email.
White LEDs a good
substitute in small torches
Now that ultra-bright white LEDs are
readily available and very cheap, this
must be placing some pressure on the
manufacturers of small torch globes.
For instance, I have found it very
simple to replace the tiny globes in
Mini Maglites and also a small Coleman lamp (headband type) with a
white LED.
The existing globes have a very
limited life since in order to produce
bright, relatively white light, they
are run at more than their maximum
rated voltage. From memory, with an
ordinary globe, a 10% increase over
rated voltage will more than halve
their life.
Having had these fail on a regular
basis and then finding the replacement
globes to be overpriced, I have found
white LEDs to be a perfect solution.
They provide a pure white light, ideal
for working on intricate equipment in
confined dark areas, and they maintain
their colour temperature over a large
part of the battery life which is also
extended, not to mention the long life
of the LED itself.
With the Coleman lamp, the replacement was simply a matter of shortening the leads on the LED to the same
length as the globe and then inserting
it in the socket. You have to get the
polarity right but if it is wrong, it
simply doesn’t light up; you then just
rotate 180°!
The Maglites were a little more difficult. You need to open the hole in the
lens to the diameter of the LED and also
carefully bend the wires at the base of
the LED so that they are closer together
(approximately 1mm). This needs to
be as close to the base of the LED as
siliconchip.com.au
possible. You then shorten the LED to
the length of original lamp.
John Parncutt,
Glen Iris, Vic.
Comment: white LEDs can be dropped
into any torch that uses only two 1.5V
cells. Higher cell numbers will mean
that a series limiting resistor will be
required, otherwise the LED will be
blown.
Digital set top boxes
prone to impulse noise
As the day draws closer when the
analog TV transmissions are switched
off in Sydney and we are all forced to
go digital, I think it may be timely to
possibly report on how to best receive
the digital broadcasts. I reside in a
relatively poor reception area (for TV,
radio, mobile, wireless broadband) in
St. Clair, Western Sydney. I have gone
to great lengths to fine tune my digital
reception, without too much success.
My analog reception was acceptable
for Sydney VHF transmitters and basically as good as you’ll get when tuning
into the much stronger Wollongong
UHF signals.
I bought a set-top box after reading
positive reviews about it and, on the
whole, am impressed. But within a
one-minute period, the jitter and loss
of sound and picture for up to 20
seconds at a time becomes quite irritable. The loud, high-pitched sounds
that accompany the interference does
not do my amplifier or expensive
speaker system much good either.
Most is caused by impulse interference from switching on anything in
my house (lights, washing machine,
model railway layout) and certain cars
driving past.
I have a high-gain UHF and high
gain VHF antenna. These are mounted
on the opposite side of the house to
the street, each fed to a combiner, with
the output fed to a masthead amplified
splitter feeding three different outlets.
I improved the problem by installing
quad-shield interconnects but the
interference was still unacceptable.
I then re-cabled the entire 3-year old
installation with quad-shield cable,
again with limited improvements.
There was no improvement after
re-aiming my UHF antenna to Sydney
to gauge the SBS reception. Similarly,
there was no improvement after caresiliconchip.com.au
fully aligning the respective antennas
for the maximum gain (using the signal
meter in the STB). I have now re-aimed
my UHF antenna back to Wollongong
and cannot view any Sydney transmissions without going mad after a
few minutes! I also use the antenna
to receive FM radio, because I have
no other choice.
Considering that I have had training
in electronics and telecommunications and employment for 10 years,
imagine how the untrained member
of the general public will get along!
Speaking to my neighbours, nobody
even knows what digital transmission
is, or that their current TV receiver will
be redundant in the next three years.
So how about a serious look at how
to improve (eliminate!) the impulse
noise problems inherently associated
with digital TV transmission?
Robert Parnell,
via email.
Comment: large numbers of people
out there in viewer-land are having
similar problems but apart from the
approach you have taken, we don’t
think there are any easy solutions.
Given that situation, we really don’t
see how the Government will have the
nerve to turn off analog transmissions
in a few years time.
Atmel’s AVR, from
JED in Australia
JED has designed a range of
single board computers and
modules as a way of using the
AVR without SMT board design
The AVR570 module (above) is a way of
using an ATmega128 CPU on a user base
board without having to lay out the intricate,
surface-mounted surrounds of the CPU, and
then having to manufacture your board on
an SMT robot line. Instead you simply layout
a square for four 0.1” spaced socket strips
and plug in our pre-tested module. The
module has the crystal, resetter, AVR-ISP
programming header (and an optional JTAG
ICE pad), as well as programming signal
switching. For a little extra, we load a DS1305
RTC, crystal and Li battery underneath,
which uses SPI and port G.
See JED’s www site for a datasheet.
AVR573 Single Board Computer
Solving an unbalanced
transformer problem
B. K’s letter on page 107 of the May
2005 issue about a non-centre-tapped
transformer giving 31V and 33V output is interesting. His problem can
probably be fixed by adding a couple
of turns of hookup wire to the transformer and using the additional turns
to add to (or subtract from) one of the
windings.
Usually the volts per turn is about
1-1.5V and a few additional turns can
be added through a toroid, if done
carefully.
Rod Cripps,
via email.
Time to up-date
to digital amplifier
Your last article on Digital Power
Amplifiers was in 2001. Since then,
digital modules have been advertised
in SILICON CHIP and many of the DJ
manufacturers have been selling
mixers with built-in high power
This board uses the AVR570 module and
adds 20 An./Dig. inputs, 12 FET outs, LCD/
Kbd, 2xRS232, 1xRS485, 1-Wire, power reg.
etc. See www.jedmicro.com.au/avr.htm
$330 PC-PROM Programmer
This programmer plugs into a PC printer
port and reads, writes and edits any 28 or
32-pin PROM. Comes with plug-pack, cable
and software.
Also available is a multi-PROM UV eraser
with timer, and a 32/32 PLCC converter.
JED Microprocessors Pty Ltd
173 Boronia Rd, Boronia, Victoria, 3155
Ph. 03 9762 3588, Fax 03 9762 5499
www.jedmicro.com.au
July 2005 5
Mailbag: continued
digital amplifiers with high quality
specifications – and with very high
efficiencies.
There must now be chip sets available and the scene needs revisiting
with perhaps a high-power amplifier
design as a result. With lower currents,
getting ultra-low distortion seems a
much easier task than with analog and
with high efficiency.
Laurence J. Taplin,
via email.
Comment: just recently, we have done
a great deal of work developing a 100W
digital amplifier module which would
have been very attractive, with high efficiency and low distortion. However,
we repeatedly blew it up and despite
several re-designs of the power supply
and output filters, we concluded that
its supply rail range is so tight that it
just cannot be used at the power levels
claimed.
Regrettably, we have decided not to
proceed to publication because its reliability is too suspect for a kit project.
There are a number of other chip
sets available but unfortunately they
are SMDs, with very tight pin spacing,
which makes them again unsuitable
for kit projects. For the time being, we
don’t see any prospect of a practical
digital amplifier module which is easily built by DIY constructors.
CFL inverter kit feedback
Several weeks ago I purchased from
Oatley Electronics three CFL inverter
kits, as featured in the September 2004
issue. I was impressed with the final result in the sense that it was well made.
However, I found a few anomalies that
may be of benefit to other users.
The first was the fact that at supply voltages slightly above 12.5V, (ie,
13.5V to 15V) the lights flickered.
Analysing the circuit revealed that the
feedback to the PWM IC was a chopped
DC signal, which the IC was comparing
with a DC level and obviously having
trouble interpreting the desired result.
A 10nF capacitor between ground and
pin 1 solved the problem.
After leaving the unit running on a
20W light for several minutes, I found
it puzzling as to why one transistor
was warmer than the other. The CRO
6 Silicon Chip
revealed different waveforms, which
was even more puzzling. I then proceeded to modify one of these units for
36V operation as I could see that the
primary was only four turns for 12V,
so it would be simple enough to wind
2x12T for 36V.
It was then that I discovered that
the two primary windings had been
wound either side of the secondary. In
low frequency systems, this is a clever
idea as it helps to mix the magnetic
flux between primary and secondary.
However, in high-frequency systems
it’s not so good. By winding the two
primaries in this way, the inductance
of each coil can be quite different, as
demonstrated here. Winding the two
primaries bifilar fixed the problem.
At this point the units worked quite
well until I discovered a problem when
the unit was in full pulse width. I had
used one of the PC boards as a platform to make a 1-cell lead acid charger
capable of delivering around 20-25A.
This was to boost a large weak cell in
a solar system. Using a similar size
and type ferrite, I wound a ferrite core,
which only needed one turn per side
on the secondary, so it was relatively
quick and easy.
However, I did have a problem with
the Mosfets getting hot due to voltage
spikes reaching their zener point. After racking my brain for some time, I
decided to consult the data sheet for
the PWM IC and then tried inserting
a 100W resistor between pins 5 & 7 to
increase the dead-time slightly. The
results were remarkable – the voltage
spikes were reduced by a factor of
about six (and hence no more heating) and the supply current dropped
accordingly.
Now in the original circuit, under
most conditions, this would not be a
problem; only when the battery goes
flat. Overall, I was impressed with the
result. Keep up the good work.
T. C. Thrum,
Para Hills West, SA.
Feedback on the
bed-wetting alert
I have some feedback on the BedWetting Alert. Firstly, hats off to
John Clarke for a very ingenious and
cost-effective solution. I bought a kit
from Jaycar and have the following
comments.
I checked that the transmitter/
receiver worked OK as suggested,
however when I rebuilt the transmitter
a couple of days later, I found that the
system would only work at very short
range. In the interim, my kids had been
having quite a bit of fun making rude
noises, so I checked the transmitter battery to find that it was “sagging” badly
under load. I replaced it but with no
real improvement. I then checked the
receiver batteries and found 5V under
load, which seemed workable. I then
spent quite a lot of time tinkering with
the transmitter, suspecting that it was
off-frequency or that I had overheated
Q3. Eventually I tried a new set of batteries in the receiver – bingo.
The new transmitter PC board is
thicker than the old one. This is noted
in Jaycar’s errata which suggests using
short wire links if required. I found it
easier to just use new components for
everything except Q1-Q3, L2 and the
1pF & 2pF capacitors.
I found the sensor strap to be way
too sensitive; it would trigger with
normal body moisture. Part of the
problem was the way I had “sewn” the
copper wire into the Velcro; it is tempting to sew with the needle exiting the
Velcro loop and re-entering, in stages.
This leaves small segments of copper
exposed. In addition, it is impossible
not to leave a small section of wire
exposed on the Velcro side behind the
jumper shunts.
The solution was to use an “extra” needle to nudge the “main” one
through the Velcro without exiting.
You need to really bury the main
needle in the Velcro to ensure that the
copper stays away from casual contact!
When done, clip the wires about 10
mm from the end of the Velcro so that
the ends remain “buried” (no need to
pass them through to the other side).
Now apply some clear silicone to this
area and also to the area behind the
jumper shunts – it seals the problem
areas, leaving only the main part of
the Velcro as the sensor.
The transmitter was also too sensitive. I found it necessary to reduce the
1MW resistor to 82kW to completely
eliminate unwanted triggering. The
receiver really needs a volume control
siliconchip.com.au
so that it can be set to an appropriate
level. I drilled a small hole in the front
panel on the bottom left of the speaker,
then glued a 100W, 10-turn trimpot
in place (when assembled the pot is
positioned over a vacant area on the
receiver board), wired in series with
the speaker. I also found it necessary to
raise the “standby” level, by changing
the 1kW resistor associated with Q4 to
150W. This interacts with the trimpot
setting a bit but works OK overall.
In conclusion, having used the BWA
for some weeks, I would say that the
biggest challenge is getting the sensor
to work properly – even after building
it with the utmost care and optimising
the sensitivity of the electronics, there
are still instances where it triggers erroneously or doesn’t trigger when it
should. Also, after a certain amount
of usage, the copper starts to corrode
or break from flexing; ie, the existing sensor design is not indefinitely
re-usable.
I think that the ideal sensor would:
(a) cover more of the crotch area, so
that moisture can trickle from any
direction and it will still trigger;
(b) be made of a moisture-absorbing
fabric like cotton. Velcro is not ideal
in this regard;
(c) be indefinitely reusable or if this
can’t be achieved, very easy to make
and therefore disposable.
Brett Crossley,
via email.
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Smoke alarm false triggering
I have experienced a similar problem to your correspondent, R. B. Flaxton, on page 104 of the May 2005 issue.
From time to time the alarm at one end
of the hall would beep for no apparent reason, at random, sometimes in
the middle of the night. Changing the
battery did not help.
The manufacturers, when contacted, suggested “vacuum clean the dust
off the alarm at least once a year, using the soft brush attachment on your
vacuum cleaner”. This seems to have
fixed the problem. I trust this may be
of interest to your readers.
Brian Coulson,
Balcolyn, NSW.
Tel: + 61 2 9906 6988
Fax: + 61 2 9906 7145
www.dominion.net.au
4007
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www.ozitronics.com
Tel: (03) 9434 3806 Fax: (03) 9011 6220
Email: sales2005<at>ozitronics.com
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Momentary or latching relays
with indicator LEDs. Range up
to 25m. Up to 15 Tx's can be
learnt by one Rx. 12VDC.
K157 - $71.50
Also available assembled K157A...... $88.00
4-Channel version (kit) K180 ...............$82.50
10-Channel version (kit) K181 .............$99.00
2-button remote for K157 .................$23.10
4-button remote for K180/1 ..............$25.85
Prices include GST – shipping extra.
Full documentation available from website.
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Wide beam angle 110°
Total height 39mm (+ Pins)
Long life >10,000 hours
Multicolour unit with 3 LEDs (cycles through colour changing routine)
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Bedlamp type and IP68 housings available soon.
Visit us at: www.prime-electronics.com.au
PRIME
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siliconchip.com.au
Email us: sales<at>prime-electronics.com.au
BRISBANE
22 Campbell Street
Bowen Hills QLD 4006
Telephone: (07) 3252 7466
Facsimile: (07) 3252 2862
SOUTHPORT
11 Brickworks Cntr,
Warehouse Rd
Southport QLD 4215
Telephone: (07) 5531 2599
Facsimile: (07) 5571 0543
SYDNEY
185 Parramatta Road
Homebush NSW 2140
Telephone: (02) 9704 9000
Facsimile: (02) 9746 1197
July 2005 7
GETTING Part 3:
INTO infrastructure,
APs, PoE and
much more!
by Ross Tester
When we ran out of space last month, we’d just explained how easy
it was to install an “ad hoc” Wi-Fi network to wirelessly connect
a few computers. Now we’ll move on to the next logical step, the
“infrastructure” network and connection to the world via the Internet.
A
ccess Points (APs) are sometimes referred to as wireless base stations, WAPs, even (albeit incorrectly)
as hubs or routers. You may also see terms like
residential gateway or Internet gateway device mentioned.
Despite the number of synonyms, as far as the wireless
network is concerned, they all mean basically the same
thing. Some may have more features than others, which
often explains their incorrect names – eg, a WAP can have
a hub or router built in.
First of all, though, if the ad hoc system works, why
do you need to go to the expense of buying this extra
equipment? Can’t you do a lot with the simpler ad hoc
network?
Yes you can, but. . .
As we briefly mentioned last month, it is possible (for
example) to connect to the internet from an ad hoc network.
It is also possible to set up a wireless access point using
software on perhaps an old PC – that is, without buying
extra hardware. But the truth is that it is not very often
done – most wireless networks use the infrastructure mode
with an AP. Why?
(a) it offers more features and more security than the ad
hoc mode;
(b) it is usually much simpler to go the hardware route,
especially if you want to do more than swap files; and
(c) if you only have a dial-up conenction, there are good
reasons, associated with the way IP addresses are handed
out, not to use a software AP.
You would normally also expect better range from an
AP, if for no other reason than the AP can be mounted in a
much more beneficial location. In an ad hoc system, communication is direct from the wireless network card in each
computer to its counterpart in another computer.
But unless there is a (often lossy!) antenna extension
cable, the antenna is normally located hard up against the
back plane of the computer – it normally directly screws
Two different types of Access Points, showing both front
and rear so you can see the difference. At left is a Wireless
Router/AP ($179 from Jaycar Electronics) which combines
the functions of an AP for wireless networks and a router
for wired networks. At right is a basic Access Point ($99
from Freenet Antennas).
8 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
DESKTOP PC
WITH WIRELESS
CARD
NOTEBOOK WITH
WIRELESS USB “STICK”
ACCESS POINT
Reproduced from Part 1 of this
series, this diagram shows the basic
arrangement for an infrastructure
mode wireless network. This isn’t
the only possible arrangement: it’s
quite likely that at least some of
the computers would be in a wired
network. There may also be more
than one access point if larger areas,
or more difficult wireless areas,
needed to be covered. The main
point to note from this diagram
is that data does not travel from
computer to computer, as it does in
an ad hoc network. Here the access
point acts as a “traffic cop”,
sending ‑data direct to the
appropriate device.
NOTEBOOK WITH
WIRELESS PC CARD
INTERNET
VIA DIALUP,
BROADBAND,
ETC
PC WITH WIRELESS
PCI ADAPTER
PDA WITH
WIRELESS
into the internal wireless network interface card, or NIC.
And the computer is often at floor level or hard up against
a wall – hardly the best radio environment. In any event,
the bulk of the computer case often provides a very effective radio shield over about 180°!
The AP too usually has integrated antenna(s) but it can
be mounted well clear of obstacles, filing cabinets, people
. . . we’ll get back to this shortly.
Naturally, all computers on the wireless network will
still have to have a wireless NIC to be able to talk to the AP
(many modern laptops have them built in). But it helps to
have the AP mounted in as good a position as possible to
give each of those computers a fighting chance!
AP cost
With the price of all wireless hardware – not just NICs
but APs as well – dropping all the time (prices have probably halved even in the last year), there now really isn’t a
good reason to suffer the limitations of an ad hoc system
for the sake of a few pennies.
A good, “no frills” access point these days should be
no more than about $100 – and possibly less if you hunt
around. We’ve seen a lot of refurbished, guaranteed Netgear
WG602 (802.11g) access points – basic but with a good
reputation – being sold on Ebay lately for sub-$50 (and
even less).
If you’re prepared to settle for an 802.11b AP, you could
pick one up for a song. Incidentally, you shouldn’t notice
any Internet performance difference between 802.11b and
802.11g. The limitation will be the ’net, not your AP.
Even all-singing, all-dancing AP models (such as the
siliconchip.com.au
“MAIN” PC
WITH MODEM
Linksys WAG45G wireless router, switch, ADSL modem
and gateway, so you get everything you need in one package) retail for well under $200 (eg, www.freenet-antennas.
com.au).
And there’s the power wastage factor too: an old computer
set up as a software access point will normally consume
a hundred watts plus (even without a monitor on) while
a dedicated access point might draw one tenth of this.
While the power cost is minimal, remember these devices
are usually left on 24 hours a day, seven days a week. It
all adds up!
APs with two antennas
Apart from their cost, whether they are “b” or “g”
models and their reputation (sometimes unearned!), one
other thing you might notice about APs is their physical
construction. Some have one antenna (or provision for
connecting an antenna); others have two, as depicted in
the diagram above.
What’s the difference? APs with two antennas are almost
invariably what is known as a “diversity” models. This
means that a comparator of some type (usually controlled
by a microprocessor) keeps monitoring the signal level at
each antenna and uses the one which is picking up the
best signal at that moment in time. It can – and does –
switch back and forward at will, sometimes many times
per second.
Because the wavelength of microwave signals is so small,
they are subject to a lot of reflections, interference, etc – so
the signals arriving at the two antennas can be quite different, even spaced as closely as they are.
July 2005 9
A 20m Power-over-Ethernet (PoE) cable ($40 from FreenetAntennas) – note the DC connectors as well as the RJ45s.
This gives you the ability to provide power to your Access
Point without running extra cables or looking for a power
outlet at the top end.
Diversity APs are usually better performers than their
single-stick cousins.
What is infrastructure mode?
Look at that name – infrastructure. It implies equipment and planning (as distinct from ad hoc, or “throwing
something together”). And that’s just what infrastructure
mode is – a network which is planned to perform bigger
and better functions and has the hardware to do so.
In a wireless network set up in infrastructure mode, data
doesn’t directly flow from computer to computer; instead,
the access point acts like a traffic cop and directs data to
the appropriate place.
It also acts as a bridge, linking the computer containing
your internet connection to your wireless network. For this
reason, the access point is almost invariably connected to
the computer which connects you to the wonderful world
wide web (wwww!).
All computers on the wireless network have their own
wireless network card (which you might also called a network adaptor or even a WNIC).
We’re getting just a bit ahead of ourselves here but all of those
adaptors need to have the same service set identifier (SSID)
so that they all know they are on the same network; they also
need to have the same encryption (WEP or WPA) keys so they
can actually understand each other. You set the SSID and WEP/
WPA keys as part of the installation process.
Don’t get too worried about all these acronyms and terms
– the computer industry breeds them like no other – but
most will become clear as you set things up (or you don’t
need to know what they mean anyway!).
Setting it up
As suggested for the ad hoc mode last month, it’s always
a good idea to plan your wireless network before rushing
in boots and all. That way, you can get a better idea of how
the various bits DO connect to each other.
It also helps you work out what you need to buy, avoiding costly mistakes. And if something doesn’t work as it
should (or something fails in the future) a network plan
can really help in troubleshooting.
Incidentally, there’s not much difference between a wireless network and a wired network from an operational point
of view – if you were putting in wire instead of wireless
you should do the same thing and plan it out first. The
10 Silicon Chip
biggest difference between wired and wireless is that the
speed of a wireless network will decrease as the quality of
the wireless signal decreases (either by range, obstruction,
etc) whereas a wired network normally keeps working
until it drops out.
In some cases, you might be adding a wireless network
onto an existing wired network – perfectly practical and
often done. For example, a company might expand. It
already has a wired network but wishes to add a few new
users. Way to go: wireless!
Or even in a new installation, you might find there are
a couple of computers (or more) on which it makes sense
to network with wire (using Cat5e for example) – wireless
NICs, even though cheaper these days, are still relatively a
lot more expensive than Ethernet NICs (you can often pick
those up for just a few dollars).
The combined wired/wireless network approach is often
handy to remember if you get into signal problems with
wireless. You might find that you have plenty of signal
in one room but nothing in the next. It could be the wall
construction (metal or insulation in the wall?), could be
a wireless black spot (shielded by something?), could be
simply running out of puff (too far from the access point).
. . or it could simply be wireless acting ornery (it does that
sometimes!).
By the way, brick walls are often a real drama – especially
external brick walls. It’s not so much the bricks themselves
but the fact that bricks naturally absorb water when they get
wet. And as you will find out, water absorbs microwaves
very nicely!
When planning the network, consider which computer
you are making the “main” computer. It’s almost certainly
the one which has your internet connection (eg, modem)
and probably has your printer and other peripherals attached. That’s the one which should also have your access
point attached.
Physically locating the Access Point
The key word here is access – you must be able to access
the AP itself and wireless signals also must have access. This
rules out anywhere with aluminium foil-type insulation,
for example (as is often used under roofs and sometimes
within walls). Remember too that in many old buildings,
fine-mesh chicken wire was used under tiles and in walls.
Fine mesh (say 1cm or less) wire will stop WiFi signals
very nicely. Plaster and brick walls are also quite unkind
in many cases – and if you’re sharing with next door, trees
and shrubs are a no-no.
The problem with trees and shrubs is that they contain
water and they also get wet (rain, dew, etc). Would you
believe I have a normally excellent wifi network between
myself and my next-door-neighbour which stops dead when
it rains – that’s when the wood paling fence between us
gets wet! (If I raise my laptop above fence height, away it
goes again).
If possible, keep your access point at least a few metres
away from anything else which shares the 2.4GHz band –
and that includes microwave ovens, digital cordless phones,
some intercoms and baby monitors, wireless doorbells,
home automation equipment, etc. The other gear doesn’t
even have to share the same 2.400-2.483MHz frequency
range to severely upset your wifi network.
It also makes sense to keep the AP away from electric
siliconchip.com.au
motors, fluorescent lights and so on which might generate
fields which upset the AP operation.
If you are linking to a wired network, the AP also needs
to connect to your router, hub or switch, so it needs to be
within reasonable cable distance. And finally, it also needs
a source of power. That’s usually not so much a problem
(what else were extension cords invented for?). Or . . .
POE: Power over Ethernet
There is an excellent alternative in finding a site for your
AP – and it’s even more a proposition when power is a long
way away, or needs to be supplied outside. It’s called Power
over Ethernet, or PoE, and as its name suggests, power for
the AP comes over the same cable which takes signal from
the AP to the computer.
In an normal Ethernet cable (Cat5e, for example), there
are four pairs of wires. Two of these pairs are not normally
used (pairs 7/8 and 4/5), so can be used for other purposes
– like running power! It is usual that both wires of each
pair are used (ie, two wires in parallel for each polarity).
Even though the IEEE has a PoE standard (IEEE 802.3af)
which should determine which pairs are which polarity,
unfortunately many manufacturers have done their own
thing and ignored the standard, so there is no hard-and-fast
rule. Cisco, for example, use pairs 7/8 for +12V and 4/5 for
0V but Intel, Orinoco and others use the opposite.
Most APs are very low power devices – a few tens of
milliwatts or so. But even higher power APs (up to the 4W
legal limit) can be run via PoE – even the thin wires in the
Ethernet cable can normally handle the required current
with ease, especially as they are paralleled.
PoE-fitted Ethernet cables are readily available made up
in various lengths. If you buy your cable from the same place
you buy your AP, the chances are it will be correct for that
AP (but don’t bet the house on it!). If in any doubt, check
and check again. Freenet Antennas have 20m PoE cables
in the $40-$65 range (see picture) and they allow you to
site the AP where you want it for optimum performance,
without having to worry about finding local power.
Interference
It may seem like commonsense but one other consideration is the location of the rest of the devices on your
network. If you have some “must always have on” devices,
the AP location should favour those to some degree.
Otherwise it makes sense to locate your AP at about the
central point for all your devices. If you find you have a
rock-solid signal for most devices but one or more at the
extremeties suffer dropouts or slow speed, you might want
to move the access point closer to them if the rest of the
devices can handle it.
If you have to mount the AP in an unfavourable location
(and there are times when you must), consider connecting a
gain antenna to help it out. There is nothing magical about
a gain antenna – you don’t get something for nothing. A
gain antenna merely sacrifices performance in one direction
for better performance in another. The higher the gain, the
more accurately the antenna must be aimed.
If your AP is at one end of the house and the other wireless devices are at the other, an antenna with some gain
aimed towards the other end might do wonders.
Note that running long antenna leads is not a good idea
due to the high losses of most coax cables at 2.4GHz. All coax
siliconchip.com.au
has loss and the higher the frequency, the higher the loss.
For example, common RG58 cable has a loss not too far off
1dB/m at 2.4GHz. That means you are going to lose most of
your signal in the cable. Run a 10m cable and a 10dBi antenna
and you are pretty much back to square one!
Some cables are available which have lower loss – for
example, Freenet-Antennas have various CFD400 coax cables from 6m to 15m in length (losses from 1.3dB to 3.3dB
loss <at> 2.4GHz) which can be fitted with N-male or N-female
connectors to order – a 6m cable with N-connectors would
cost you $60.00; the 15m version $84.00.
A better answer? Mount the AP close to the antenna with
a short antenna lead and use a long ethernet cable from
the AP back to the computer. I can’t think of a situation
where you can’t get away with a lot longer ethernet cable
than you can a long antenna cable.
If all else fails, another AP can usually be connected to
the system in a location which picks up the black spots. Or
you can buy a repeater (sometimes called a signal booster)
which does much the same thing. But these devices are
starting to get a little outside our “simple” wifi system.
Finally, you may find that a few centimetres (or tens of)
in the location of your AP (or its antenna/s) makes a lot of
difference in the performance of your wireless network.
Even though you have decided on the “optimal” spot, be
prepared to experiment a little later on to see if you can
get better range and/or speed by moving it slightly. Also
remember that the antenna(s) on most APs can be rotated
through about half a sphere, so don’t be afraid to experiment there as well. Should we have to say it? All antennas
need to be oriented, or polarised, the same way. That is, if
some vertical, all are vertical – and vice versa.
Trial and error might not be the most scientific way to
determine best positioning but failing some pretty fancy
test gear, it might be the most sensible!
Installing the AP
This is the easy bit! Once you’ve decided on the location, there are two parts to getting it going: plugging it in
and running installation software. As a general rule (in
other words, not always!), if your
AP comes with its own installation
disk (CD, usually these days) it’s
a good idea to run that, if only to
take advantage of any “extras” your
particular AP might offer.
Note that some APs need to be
plugged in and turned on before
software installation; others require
the software installed first. And
some we have seen must be plugged
in and/or turned on at a certain
(prompted) point in the installation.
This 8dBi omindirectional collinear
antenna called “The Stick” has an
N-type connector and is shown here
with a pipe-grip base for external
mounting. However, it can also
be fitted to a magna-base, which
comes with 3m of low-loss coax
terminated in a reverse-polarity
SMA connector. (Antenna only: $70
from Freenet-Antennas).
July 2005 11
Simply follow the instructions which came with your access point.
As we said last month, Windows XP has a very easy, very
smooth installation process for wireless networks (as it does
for wired networks). Simply click on to Control Panel, My
Network Places and “Set up a Wireless Network for Home
or Small Office”, then follow the bouncing ball.
If your AP doesn’t come with a disk (or you’ve lost it),
use the Windows XP install. Later, you might be able to
log onto the manufacturer’s website and download up-tothe-minute installs.
Sharing your internet connection
Now that you have your wireless network up and running, you want to be able to share the internet connection
over the network.
Again, Mr Gates’s disciples have provided a very simple,
step-by-step way to do this. It’s called “Internet Connection Sharing” (ICS). If you get stuck, Windows “Help and
Support Centre” will get you out of trouble.
Sharing the internet with a neighbour
Now you know that you can share the internet connection
via WiFi amongst the computers on your network, what it
to stop you sharing it a bit further afield – say with your
next-door neighbour?
As we have said time and time again, not only is this
possible, it’s probable – if you haven’t enabled (at least)
WEP and preferably WPA (not to be confused with mobile
phone WAP). Your sharing might not even be by choice!
But is it legal to share internet next door?
We touched on this in the first part of this WiFi series
(May issue) but since then we’ve done a lot more research
on the subject.
We’ve often heard it claimed (even since May!) that
sharing an internet connection over the boundary of your
property is illegal. It harkens back to the days of the Wireless
Telegraphy Act of (I think!) 1906, where running any form of
communications over a property boundary was specifically
not allowed – mainly because when that Act was written and
for maybe half a century later, “communications” involved
running a wire over the property boundary.
But this is 2005 – and things have changed a little. For
a start, that Wireless Telegraphy Act has been replaced (by
many volumes of Acts!).
While we are only bush lawyers (whose advice is normally worth about the same as is charged for), the bottom
line appears to be, at least as far as the powers-that-be are
concerned, that allowing your next door neighbour to log
on to your wireless network and use your internet connection for free is perfectly legal.
Note that word, for free: that is, as long as you don’t
charge your next-door-neighbour for the privilege. If you
do that, then under one of those Acts, legally you have
become a carrier and require a carrier licence (and that’s
expensive ~$10,000!).
Of course, if you shared your wireless network with a
neighbour and a slab or two of universal currency appeared
on your back doorstep every couple of months – your
neighbour just being friendly, of course – then that hardly
counts as charging, does it?
That, at least, appears to be the official line from the
Australian Communications Authority (ACA) who are re12 Silicon Chip
sponsible for administering everything to do with wireless
in Australia (yes, even WiFi).
You might have read, because it is often said, that WiFi
(or at least 802.11/b/g) is in the 2.4GHz “unlicenced” band
– but the ACA is very quick to point out that there is no
such thing in this country. Everything, even flea-powered
WiFi, is licenced – it’s just a matter of how!
WiFi equipment broadly fits into a class of communications gear known as LIPD, or Low Interference Potential
Device. It’s covered by a “class licence” which basically
means you can use it as long as you (a) don’t modify it and
(b) don’t interfere with other spectrum users. If other people
cause you interference, tough luck: you are not offered any
protection nor redress.
And your ISP?
OK, so that’s the Government line. But what about your
Internet Service Provider (ISP)? Do they like you doing it?
Obviously they’d much rather your next-door-neighbour
sign up for their own broadband service. In fact, some
ISP contracts specifically prohibit you from sharing your
broadband connection with others. Then again, some don’t
even mention it.
Elsewhere in this issue, I mention that I have installed
the Unwired wireless broadband system. Their contract
simply says, “You must not use our Services or attempt to
use our Services or allow our Services to be used by anyone else.” Gee, that’s pretty tough. Anyone? What about
your own family members? (It’s OK, Mr Unwired. I don’t
share yours – my next-door neighbour shares his [wired]
connection with me).
Optus cable doesn’t appear to worry about it. All they
say is you are responsible for any charges including extra
download charges if applicable!
Check the fine print on your ISP broadband (ADSL or
cable) agreement/contract to see where you stand. Whether
you take too much notice of fine print is entirely up to you
(it’s much like all those software agreements where everyone ticks the “I agree” box at the end. If you actually read
half of them, you’d be too scared to turn the computer on,
let alone use the software!).
But here’s the rub: by sharing your broadband connection
with your next-door-neighbour, you can probably afford
to go for a much better service – faster and with perhaps
unlimited downloads. (Of course, once again, we’d never
say something like suggesting you share costs).
But if you go for an unlimited (or even high limit) download agreement, who’s to know that you haven’t started
downloading full-length movies or lots of music off the
net? Hence your usage might . . . umm, double?
The ISP is unlikely to complain because you are paying
them more for the better service!
That’s my own situation. My NDN and I share his unlimited (12GB/month at full speed) broadband. He initally
installed this service because he needed speed – he virtually never even made it to 1GB. A few months back, the
download limit was increased from 3GB to 12GB at no
extra charge (reduce the price instead? Naah!) – and even
between us, we never get anywhere near 25% of that limit.
And apart from my battles with the wet paling fence, it
works well, too.
Gee, I must remember to buy a slab or two on the way
home. Now what does he drink again . . .
SC
siliconchip.com.au
CeBIT Sydney 2005
T
o keep up to date, we try to get
along to at least a few computer
and technology shows each year.
CeBIT Sydney is one of them. Held
during late May, the CeBIT show is arguably one of the most popular, aimed
more at the business market than the
“tyre kickers”.
Last year, I recall saying “more of the
same but different”. CeBIT 2005 was
similar – a lot of the latest hardware
on display; software to do just about
anything (and if it wasn’t there, plenty
of people who’d write it for you . . .) and
plenty of people trying to sell you their
particular gizmo or gimmick. If you were
a sample CD collector, you could come
away very happy indeed.
I have to say that CeBIT is not the
place to go to get a bargain. Even “special CeBIT show offfer” prices were
generally not much better than what
you’d pay at a retail or online shop
(which in fact many sellers were from,
just disguised a bit!).
The two biggest things I noticed this
year were Wireless and VoIP. Both were
everywhere – Wireless in particular. It
seemed that every second stand had
something to do with Wireless – whether 802.11 variety or other incarnations
such as WiMax. Antennas, connectors,
cables, software, hardware . . . including
a LOT of building-to-building solutions.
It is very obvious that Wireless networking is here for the long haul – and for
the long distance!
And there were plenty of stands
offering CD and DVD duplication; others with one of last year’s favourites,
computer cooling.
While many of the big multinationals had large, very schmick stands with
everything just so, it’s often the smaller
exhibitors, tucked away in corners and
alleys, that have the most interesting
products.
This report is certainly not meant to
be an exhaustive analysis of what was
on offer at CeBIT – it’s more those interesting products which jumped out at
me as I made my way through the four
halls of CeBIT at the Darling Harbour
Exhibition Centre.
Jon Reid, of Bio Recognition Systems
(whom SILICON CHIP readers may recall
wrote an article on biorecognition a
siliconchip.com.au
by Ross Tester
Just one half of one of four
halls at CeBIT Sydney 2005.
couple of years ago [gad, was it really
January 2001?]) had a brand new D-I-Y
fingerprint access control system kit
called “Bioloc” which he was launching
at the show. He claims the truly weatherproof system is a significant breakthrough in both price and technology
and has promised SILICON CHIP a closer
look at it shortly. (www.brsgrp.com)
Dialogue Australia had their tiny
“Flybook” notebook – well, it did have
a Windows XP (home) computer inside
(full XP, not Tablet PC), along with a
GPRS phone (all you do is plug in a
mobile SIM card), Bluetooth, WiFi,
GPS and a touch-screen with stylus that
converts your handwriting into a text
document. And all this in a 1230g, 235
x 155 x 31mm package – claimed to be
the smallest in the world. And yes, it
comes in six stylish colours! We hope
to have a closer look at this one in the
future, too. (www.flybook.biz)
Another intriguing little product was
“egrips”, a self-adhesive grip for mobile
phones, cameras, etc, etc. How often
have you put your phone down on a
sloping surface – like the car dashboard
– only to find it slide away from you?
Stick one of the self-adhesive egrips
on the back of the phone and it will
stay put – up to about 75° or so above
horizontal. Being printable, they also
make an ideal advertising medium.
(www.egrips.com.au).
Travroute had the latest version of
CoPilot live, a GPS navigation system
for pocket PCs, smartphones and laptops which not is claimed to be the first
system which not only shows you where
to turn, it tells you, giving the name of
the street (ie, turn left into Smith Street
in 250 metres). Other nav systems may
tell you to turn but only at “the next
left” and so on. (travroute.com.au)
Another interesting application at
CeBIT was Powertec Telecommunication’s Ericsson Wireless Landline
system for cutting business telecommunication costs. In a nutshell, it intercepts calls made to mobile numbers (a
huge slice of business phone expenses
these days), identifies the number being
called and automatically converts the
call into the lowest-cost call possible.
It does this by taking advantage of the
called mobile carrier’s own discounts
(such as the 20c Vodafone-to-Vodafone
call rate). They claim to be able to dramatically cut costs – as much as 75%
and even more. (powertec.com.au)
Space does not permit mentioning a
number of other exhibits that I would
have liked to – and I haven’t even mentioned the various country exhibitions
(USA, China, Taiwan, NZ, Germany,
etc) who each had a number of subexhibitors; nor several State Government departments, again with several
companies on their stands.
If you are thinking about attending CeBIT Australia 2006 (9-11 May)
allocate a full day to fully appreciate
everything that’s there – four hours
is not enough! If you can’t wait that
long, CeBIT Hannover (Germany), the
world’s largest ICT, event is on 9-15
March, 2006. But you’d better leave a
bit more than a day for that one! (www.
cebit.com.au)
SC
July 2005 13
Unleashing
Remember our article on the (then new)
“Unwired” wireless broadband system back
in November last year? We liked it so much
we signed up for a system. Ever since, we’ve
wondered if it could be improved . . .
E
lsewhere in this issue, we report
on a brief visit to the CeBIT show
in Sydney. Like many of the exhibitors at that show, Hills Antenna
& TV displayed a range of wireless
equipment antennas and equipment.
“Ho hum, not more . . . hang on,
what’s this?” The item that caught
my eye was a small (150mm square?)
panel antenna, labelled “Show Special: 3.5GHz, 7dB External Antenna
for Unwired modems. . .”
Huh? How can you hook up an external antenna to an Unwired modem?
When we looked at the Unwired
broadband system we were reasonably
impressed with its performance, if not
its coverage. (I have to tell you that
not much has changed in coverage,
especially in our area).
I have installed a permanent Unwired system and even though I pay
for the top (1024) service, I have never
found it to even approach that speed.
Most of the time, it’s way under that.
Apparently, the reason for the slow
speed is that I am right on the edge of
the Unwired service area. All I ever
Here’s the Hills BC7243 13dBi flat panel
antenna, similar to the smaller one that
caught my eye at CeBIT. This one would
be all most Unwired users would need.
14 Silicon Chip
get is the “red” indicator LED – they
say that means good, even though it’s
the minimum usable signal level. An
orange LED means very good, a green
LED excellent. Not that I have ever
seen those colours. (The LEDs would
probably be better labelled marginal,
reasonable and good).
The antenna on the Unwired modem
is semi-fixed. Called a “rabbit ear” for
obvious reasons, it can rotate through
180° but that’s all.
Unlike their opposition (iBurst)
wireless modem, there is no provision
for an external antenna on the Unwired
modem. (While it’s true iBurst include
an external antenna socket, so far noone has come up with the appropriate
plug to actually connect to it!)
I had toyed with Stan Swan’s idea
of a WiFri antenna, mounting the Unwired modem so its antenna was at the
focal point. Somehow, I never quite got
around to doing it . . .
At CeBIT, I got to chatting to Rolf
Roelfsema, Hills Antenna’s Microwave
Product Development Manager. I asked
him about that external Unwired
antenna and also about the apparent
inability to plug it in!
Almost conspiratorially, he replied
“If you – ahem – remove the rabbit
ear you’ll find it plugs into a standard
MCX connector. So if you want extra
range or a boost in performance, you
can easily do it.”
“How can you remove the rabbit
ear? There’s not a screw nor a clip
anywhere on the modem that I could
find.”
“It’s really easy once you know
how,” he said – and then explained
how to do it!
“What do Unwired think of this,”
I asked.
“Unwired don’t condone it,” he
said. “In fact they say you void the
warranty if you remove the rabbit
ear. . .”
Incidentally, I understand that since
CeBIT, Hills plan to start talking to
Unwired to “legitimise” what is obviously a win-win situation for both
companies .
We then started chatting about other
antennas they had which would do
an even better job than the tiny panel
antenna they were offering.
“This panel (the one on display)
gives a bit better performance than
the rabbit ear but Hills has a range of
3.5GHz antennas which will give you
siliconchip.com.au
Unwired
by Ross Tester
The trade secret: how to remove the Unwired “rabbit ear” antenna to reveal the antenna socket underneath!
Here’s the Unwired modem with the
rabbit ear closed. See those two little
raised marks on the seam . . .
line them up by rotating the ear, just
like this, and you should find that the
antenna can be pulled out and off. . .
revealing the standard MCX antenna
socket inside. It’s a push-in type, not a
screw-in type.
far better results,” he said. “Once the
madness of CeBIT is over, why don’t
you come out to Hills and we’ll go
through what is available.”
So it transpired that a week or so
later I made the cross country jaunt to
Riverwood (a good hour’s drive away
from the SILICON CHIP offices) and met
up again with Rolf.
There he showed me a range of
antennas, some of which had started
life as 2.4GHz WiFi models but had
been adapted for the higher frequency
(3.5GHz) Unwired.
Two in particular stood out. One was
not too dissimilar to the antenna I’d
seen at CeBIT: a low-profile flat panel
antenna, 190 x 190 x 20mm, suitable
for outside or inside use, pole or wall
mounted (or, as Rolf pointed out, can
sit flat on a desk or filing cabinet, etc).
With a gain of 13dBi, this antenna has
a horizontal and vertical beamwidth
of 35° so is not just high gain, it’s also
rather forgiving of aiming errors – close
enough is probably good enough.
It has a UV-resistant ABS radome
and aluminium backplate, mounted
on a diecast aluminium bracket and
is suitable for horizontal or vertical
polarisation (though as an Unwired
antenna would be vertical).
An integrated type-N female socket
connects to the outside world.
The second antenna was a more
traditional parabolic grid “dish”. This
one, according to Hills, will normally
lift your Unwired signal level up two
LEDs and often gives you wall-to-wall
signal even in otherwise dodgy areas.
Hey, sounds like my Unwired service!
The rugged, powder-coated grid
antenna is actually available in three
sizes, with 16, 19 and 25dBi reflector
options. Naturally, the higher the gain,
the less forgiving the antenna will be
about aiming – the 25dBi model only
offering 10° horizontal and 8.2° vertical beamwidth. Still, for someone with
signal levels down in the mud, a few
more minutes up a ladder getting the
aim just right is hardly going to matter
in the long term.
And this is one of
Hills’ big guns, a
16dBi powder-coated
parabolic grid antenna
(Part No KC4253)
which plugs into the
Unwired modem via
a downlead (black)
and patch lead (white
in this case). Other
(larger) models have
even higher gain. This
antenna is a little bent
out of shape (it’s been
doing the rounds of
the shows). But it still
works perfectly – in
fact, I couldn’t stop
it working no matter
where I aimed it!
siliconchip.com.au
Connecting the antennas
Connecting any antenna in the
GHz range is always something of a
challenge – and both these antennas
proved to be just that. It’s a compromise between location (and that means
distance) and loss. But, as they say
in the classics, where there’s a will,
there’s relations. Woops, sorry, wrong
proverb.
The panel antenna outputs to an
integral “N” female connector. The
grid antenna outputs via a 600mm
coax downlead, terminated in an “N”
male or female connector.
The Unwired connector mates to
an MCX plug and this, at the moment,
can only be fitted to RG58 coax. Now
as any amateur radio operator will tell
you, RG58 is at best marginal at upper
HF, very lossy at VHF frequencies. . .
and at 3.5GHz it’s hopeless.
So only a very short length of coax
can be used (we tested it with 2.5m).
That’s fine for one popular method of
mounting: the antenna and Unwired
modem in the roof cavity (ie, under
shelter), with the modem connected
July 2005 15
These two adaptors from Hills allow
direct connection between the panel
antenna and the Unwired modem.
via a longer Ethernet cable. But it’s not
too realistic if you want to mount the
antenna outside and the modem inside.
Hills are working on that little dilemma
and expect to have a solution available
even before this issue hits the streets.
A possible alternative for the panel
antenna is direct (ie, no coax) connection using a couple of adaptors which
Hills have as standard stock lines.
Just like WiFi access points which
we talk about elsewhere in this issue,
it’s no big deal to mount the Unwired
modem in the ceiling and run a Cat5e
patch cable back to your computer.
You could even run PoE (Power over
Ethernet) to the Unwired modem if
you were really keen.
You could do the same thing with
the grid antenna by connecting the
appropriate adaptors to the (fitted)
coax cable. Of course, both of these
options are null and void if you have
aluminium-backed insulation in your
roof/ceiling or you have a very old or
very new house with corrugated iron
roofing (isn’t it funny how we used to
despise corrugated iron!).
Doin’ it!
First we will look at the panel antenna. As our close-up photos show,
two adaptors are used to go from the
male “N” connector to the Unwired
modem. These are a MCXto RPSMA
(Hills part no BC7240) and a RPMSSA
to “N” (male) (Hills part no BC7263).
Note that the Unwired socket is a pushin, not a screw-in type.
Taking the mounting brackets off
the panel antenna allows the Unwired modem to fit right in behind it.
The modem could be packed up by a
couple of millimetres if you wish; we
didn’t bother as it seemed to be close
enough.
Now all you have to do is aim the
antenna while watching the red/orange/green LEDs – unfortunately that’s
no mean feat because the panel is in
the way. But you can see them – just!
When you get the best operation,
set the antenna and modem in that
position and you’re ready to see how
much better/faster/both your Unwired
signal is.
The grid antenna is both a little
easier and a little more tricky. Because
it comes with both a downlead and a
modem extension cable, siting it isn’t
quite as difficult. But as we said before,
it’s a lot less forgiving when it comes
to aiming it. Still, 16dBi gain means
you should have a lot more signal to
play with – the optimum point of aim
will just be that much tighter.
External mounting
If you need to mount the system
outside, you may be able to get away
with the 480mm downlead and the
2.5m patch lead we tried – especially if
you mount the Unwired modem close
to the point where the lead comes in
from outside and run Cat5e back to
the computer (similar to the panel
antenna above).
Otherwise, you’re going to need to
With those two adaptors
shown above, the Unwired
modem can connect directly
to the BC7244 panel antenna
as shown here. They are
not exactly in the same
vertical plane – perhaps a
milli-metre or two out – but
they are close enough for
us! This would obviously
be an “inside” installation
but if some form of suitable
weatherproofing was
available (only needed for
the Unwired modem, not
the panel), we might even
be tempted to try this setup
outside!
16 Silicon Chip
get some very low loss antenna patch
leads. They are available but they’re
not cheap. Don’t go for any longer
than you absolutely need because
every extra metre means more lost
signal. Remember too that while Nconnectors are designed to be low loss
themselves, every extra connector in
the system introduces more loss.
Of course, you could ferret out some
low-loss coax and connectors to make
up your own patch leads – but that’s
probably not worth your while.
OK, how did they go?
It is still early days yet but both
antennas gave a significant boost to
my Unwired signal.
For the first time, I’m seeing signal
strength LED colours other than red –
the panel antenna gave me an orange
and the grid antenna, aimed correctly
and above the insulation inside the
roof, always gave a solid green. (In
fact, aimed anywhere – 180° from the
nearest Unwired tower, even straight
up in the air or straight down, it always
gave at least as good performance as
the rabbit ear!)
And speed also seems to be increased.
I haven’t really had the chance to review
it for a long period nor in all weathers –
the forecast is for a wet weekend (rain
used to knock my Unwired around a
bit!) so that will be interesting.
I’m happy: the antenna investment
is well worth it. Unwired isn’t the
cheapest service so you really need to
extract every bit of performance that
you can. For the sake of well under
$100 (panel antenna, including adaptors) or a bit over $100 (grid antenna
and patch lead), your sluggish Unwired service can really start to sing.
One other benefit which some
readers might find attractive: following our Unwired feature, Av-Comm’s
Gary Cratt wrote a coupe of articles
about Unwired and similar wireless
broadband knocking the stuffing out of
satellite TV reception. With a highly directional antenna such as the parabolic
grid, you just might be able to have the
two services co-exist. No promises –
but it could be worth a try!
SC
Contact:
Hills Antenna & TV Systems
12 Wiggs Rd, Riverwood, NSW 2210.
Ph (02) 9717 5290
Fax: (02) 9717 5298
(Or local offices in all state capitals)
Web: www.hills.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
BOOK REVIEW
by Ross Tester
The Wireless Networking Starter Kit (2nd Edition)
by Adam Engst & Glenn Fleishman,
Peachpit Press (US), 530+ pages, soft cover
Some months ago, I asked our nonresident Wi-Fi guru, Stan Swan, which
book he would recommend for a beginner in the field of Wi-Fi (at the time,
me!). “None better than The Wireless
Networking Starter Kit,” he said.
Now that’s some recommendation.
So I contacted the publishers and
organised a copy. If it was as good as
Stan said it was, we’d like to put it in
the SILICON CHIP bookshop.
In due course, the book arrived –
and my first surprise was to find that
there was now a second edition. My
second, hardly a surprise, was to find
that Stan (once again!) knew what he
was talking about.
This book is one of the best Wi-Fi
resources I have found – and by now,
I’ve seen quite a lot of them.
You might be able to find a lot of
the information in this book on the
’net – if you have the time (lots of!)
and patience (even more!) to go searching for it. In the Wireless Networking
Starter Kit, it’s all there in one handy
reference volume. And at the price, it’s
very good value for money.
Covering both the Windows and
Mac environments, it starts with the
real basics – how wireless works, the
standards, the hardware and so on,
even looking into the crystal ball at
the (near) future of wireless.
In some respects, their prophecies
are already coming true – the book
was written during mid 2003 so now,
two years on, we can see how right the
authors were. (They were!).
It then moves on to the “nuts and
bolts” of wireless networking: how
to connect your computer and then
building a wireless network. By the
time you’ve read through all of this,
you should have a very good idea of
just what you need and how to string
it all together. In fact, you’d probably
rate yourself as a power user, if not
an expert.
Wireless security is covered in some
depth. Given the importance of this
subject in the 21st century, this is a welsiliconchip.com.au
come sight. Not only does it tell
you how you can be attacked,
it tells you how to prevent attacks in your network. It even
tells you how and why WEP
encryption is so vulnerable,
even going as far as detailing
the software capable of breaking WEP. Why? Forewarned is
forearmed!
The authors then discuss
mobile Wi-Fi in a variety of
formats. While some of the
information is US-specific,
it was very interesting to
me to read just how and
why the various systems
evolved and are still evolving. Finally, they talk about
long-range Wi-Fi – how to
get long distance from a
Wi-Fi installation.
There are three useful appendices,
too: networking basics, configuring
your network and settings, and most
importantly, how to troubleshoot. Finally, a glossary fills you in on all the
Wi-Fi buzzwords.
Criticisms? A couple of minor bits
of JISP (jumbled interpretation of
scientific phenomena). An example:
“In the simplest terms, an antenna increases the power of a transceiver.. .”
(P32). Umm, no it doesn’t – we think
they meant to say an external antenna
increases the radiated power of a transceiver, which still isn’t strictly true but
it imparts some meaning to readers not
versed in RF.
They also talk about the US FCC
worrying about people connecting
“too powerful antennas” which again
is misleading. No antenna is any more
“powerful” than another because they
don’t have “power”. It might be more
efficient; it might have higher gain
by increasing performance in certain
directions and sacrificing performance
in others. But more powerful, it ain’t!
However, if these quibbles are all we
have to report, the authors have done
very well indeed in explaining what
is still a black science to most people,
including many computer users.
What we did like is the continuous
notes and asides through the book. Did
you know, for example, that spreadspectrum technology (the basis for WiFi transmissions) was invented during
WWII by the actress Hedy Lamar and
kept secret by the US Government?
Neither did I!
And the opening quote in the book,
attributed to Albert Einstein, really
tickled my fancy: “The wireless telegraph is not difficult to understand.
The ordinary telegraph is like a very
long cat. You pull the tail in New York
and it meows in Los Angeles. The
wireless is the same, without the cat.”
For more information on this book
(even a “teaser” downloadable chapter) go to www.wireless-starter-kit.
com
The Wireless Networking Starter Kit
is distributed in Australia by Penguin
Group and should be available (probably to order) from better bookshops,
with a recommended retail price of
$49.95.
It is also available from the SILICON
CHIP bookshop (online or through the
magazine for $48.00 plus $7 p&p).
July 2005 17
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
dicksmith.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
dicksmith.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
dicksmith.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
dicksmith.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
dicksmith.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
dicksmith.com.au
Plug in any lamp – dim up or down remotely and automatically
24 Silicon Chip
24 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Remote
Controlled,
Automatic
Table Lamp
Dimmer
by John Clarke
Features
• Remote control operation
• Uses commercial pre-programmed remote control
• On and off control with soft start for long lamp life
• Fast and slow dim up and dim down control
• Automatic dim up and dim down
• Programmable minimum and maximum dimming levels
• Programmable automatic dimming rate
• Dimming level and dimming rate kept even after a blackout
• Remote control acknowledge indication
• Automatic dimming indication
• RFI suppression
•
Four remote control codes available
siliconchip.com.au
JJuly
2005 25
uly 2005
83
July
2005 25
D
o you want more features from a plug-in lamp than room. It provides such a slow reduction in light over a period of time, that the children probably won’t even notice
just boring old on and off?
before they fall asleep!
This multi-featured Automatic Lamp Dimmer
Automatic dimming can be set from a minimum of 10
provides total control via an infrared remote. Use it for
mood lighting, home theatre lighting or even as a night light. seconds through to 990 seconds (16 minutes and 30 secWall-mounted lamp dimmers (ie, those that control the onds), in 10 second increments. The maximum time period
fixed lamps in homes) are common, used to great effect to should be more than enough for most automatic dimming
applications.
adjust the brightness levels to suit the occasion.
The Automatic Lamp Dimmer is housed in a modified
However, it is not very common to find a dimmer for a
table lamp or other portable lamp. But these lamps can also 4-way mains power board. This provides a robust and
professional-looking case. Three of the four outlets are
benefit from being able to be dimmed.
For example, you may wish to dim the lights in your not used, to provide sufficient space to house the dimmer
lounge room and you can do this with the dimmer that circuitry. A cover blocks off the three unused mains outlets
and prevents these from being used.
controls the main ceiling lights.
Two indicaUntil now,
Specifications
tor LEDs prothough, you’ve
• Fast up and down dimming … 2 seconds from one extreme to the other
trude through
had only on
• Slow up and down dimming … 12 seconds from one extreme to the other
the cover. One
and off control
• Switch on rate … 340ms soft start
shows when
of any other
• Automatic dimming rate… adjustable from 10 seconds to 990 seconds
the dimmer is
lamps.
• Minimum brightness setting for automatic dimming … adjustable over full dimming range
receiving an inFor a home
• Maximum brightness setting for automatic dimming … adjustable over full dimming range
frared remote
theatre room,
• Maximum dimming steps … 125
control signal,
being able to
• Phase control range … 14° maximum brightness, 158° minimum brightness
while the secdim the ancil• Lamp rating … 40W minimum to 150W maximum
ond shows that
lary lights is
the dimmer is
important if the
automatically dimming (handy if a long dim time is set). The
full visual impact of the large screen is to be realised.
In fact, if you only use ancillary lighting that plugs into infrared remote signal is received by the internal circuitry
the Automatic Lamp Dimmer, the lighting can be dimmed via a red bezel mounted in the end of the power board.
automatically over the period of a few seconds, resulting
The infrared remote
in a “professional” theatre experience.
A commercially available, pre-programmed handheld
And as the dimmer functions are remote controlled, all
the brightness adjustments can be made from the comfort remote control operates the Automatic Lamp Dimmer.
These controllers can operate hundreds of different types
of your lounge chair. Bring on the popcorn and choc-tops!
As a night-light, the Automatic Lamp Dimmer can be set to of TVs, VCRs and satellite receivers by setting a code to
slowly dim from full brightness (or from a dimmed brightness) suit the device concerned.
To operate the Automatic Lamp Dimmer, you can select
down to a preset level over an extended time period.
The slow dimming function is ideal for use in a child’s one of four programming codes. The idea is to use a code
Our new Automatic Lamp Dimmer is housed in a 4-way power
board, modified to suit the inclusion of the PC board. Three of the
outlets are not used and are blanked off by the “front panel”. At
right is the commercial infrared remote control we used, a “Big 3”
from Jaycar Electronics. Most “universal” remote controls would
be suitable for use with the Automatic Lamp Dimmer and can
probably replace a couple of your existing remotes into the bargain!
26 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
that does not operate any of your other devices that are
used in the same room.
The remote control can also be used to operate your other
remote control devices such as TV, VCR and cable/satellite
receivers. More elaborate pre-programmed remote controls
will operate DVD players and amplifiers as well.
As mentioned, the Automatic Lamp Dimmer can be used
to control the light in several ways. Simple on-and-off
switching of the lamp uses the mute button on the remote
control. Press this and the lamp switches on; press again
to switch off.
Think of this operation as similar to the sound muting
on a TV set – a press of the mute switch turns the sound
off and a second press sets the sound back to normal.
Soft starting
When the lamp is switched on, it may appear that it is
instantly switched to full brightness. However, in reality
it is soft-started. Soft starting means that power is applied
to the lamp gradually. This reduces the very high surge
current flow that would otherwise occur due to the lamp’s
filament being cold. Allowing the lamp filament to warm
up more slowly prevents most of the thermal shock most
lamps experience, resulting in a much longer life.
The soft start brings the brightness of the lamp up automatically from off to full brightness in 340ms. That’s just
a third of a second, so in all probability you won’t even
notice the difference between this and normal off/on action.
By default, the lamp must be soft-started when using the
remaining controls for the Automatic Lamp Dimmer. This
is because the brightness is brought up slowly using the
dimming buttons on the remote control.
There are three types of dimming available for the
lamp.
(1) Fast dimming, using the channel up (+) and the
channel down (-) buttons. Press and hold the channel (+)
button and the lamp will be dimmed up from fully off to
fully on in about two seconds. You can stop the dimming
+340V
(a)
0V
10ms
0
30ms
20ms
TIME
NOTE: THIS CIRCUIT CAN BITE!
Never plug this project in to mains power
without the case fully assembled.
Contact with components could be lethal.
at any brightness level by letting go the button. Similarly,
the channel (–) button will dim the lamp from fully on to
fully off over two seconds.
(2) Slow dimming is available with the volume up (+) and
volume down (-) buttons. With these buttons, it takes some
12 seconds to fully dim the lights from off to on or on to
off, again with the position holding if you let go the button.
Slow dimming allows you to select precise brightness levels
for the lamp if that’s something you need to do.
(3) Automatic dimming is initiated with the operate (or
standby) button. This is usually the red button and it has
a split circle and vertical stroke icon to indicate a power
switch.
During dimming, the lamp will dim up or dim down
with 125 steps in brightness level from full on to full off
over the automatic dimming sequence. Dimming will
alternate between dimming up to dimming down with
each pressing of the operate button at the end of the dimming sequence.
The 125 steps means it is not easy to detect any change
in brightness level, so the effect is a smooth up or down
dim.
At any stage during the automatic dimming sequence,
the other dimming or on/off controls can be used to stop
the dimming sequence and begin the operation selected by
the appropriate button.
Two preset dimming levels, high and low, can be set to
suit your particular application. A preset high dimming
level sets the brightness reached when automatically dimming up and a preset low level sets the brightness reached
when automatically dimming down. The preset brightness
levels can be set to any value required.
For example, the preset low level would be set to a low
glow from the lamp filament, suitable for sleeping. Or it
might be set higher, for home theatre use. Similarly, the
preset high level could be set anywhere you desire.
The preset levels are selected by setting the required
+340V
ZERO VOLTAGE DETECT,
BRIGHTNESS COUNTER RESET
–340V
127V
82V
+340V
10ms
0
30ms
20ms
–340V
–340V
0
FIG.1 PHASE CONTROL
Fig. 1 depicts phase control of an alternating voltage.
Fig.1a shows the normal AC waveform (ie, that from
the power point). Fig.1b shows just what happens if the
power is applied for half of each half cycle.
siliconchip.com.au
TIME
–127V
MINIMUM
BRIGHTNESS
PHASE
MAXIMUM
BRIGHTNESS
PHASE
TIME
0
20ms
–82V
MAXIMUM
BRIGHTNESS
PHASE
(b)
0V
10ms
0V
14
158 180 194
MINIMUM
BRIGHTNESS
PHASE
338 360 14
DEGREES
20
220 250
0 20
0 20
220 250
BRIGHTNESS
COUNTER VALUE
Fig.2 shows the relative trigger points and corresponding
voltages used in the automatic dimmer. A full explanation
of these is in the text.
July 2005 27
brightness level with the slow dimming controls - the level
set during slow up-dimming will become the high preset
level and the level set during slow down – dimming will
become the low preset level.
The levels are only set during slow dimming, not during
fast up and down dimming. If you want to set the preset
levels for automatic dimming, you set them using the
slow dimming, then press the “operate” button followed
by the “0” button on the remote control. The “0’ button
tells the Automatic Lamp Dimmer to store the new high
and low brightness levels that were selected during the
slow dimming.
This is a two-stage operation for storing the required
preset brightness level. It prevents any dimming made
using the slow dimming controls from becoming the new
preset brightness level unless it is stored using the “0”
button during automatic dimming.
For obvious reasons, the low brightness preset should not
be set at a higher level than the high preset level nor vice
versa. If this happens, automatic dimming will not work.
The rate of automatic dimming is programmed during automatic dimming using the number buttons on the
hand-held remote. One or two numbers can be entered,
ranging from “1” through to “99”, which correspond to 10
seconds per digit. So, for example, entering a “1” will cause
the automatic dimming to occur over a 10 second period.
Entering “10” will set a 100 second (1 minute 40 seconds)
automatic dimming period and so on.
Note that the number “0” cannot be entered first because
that is used for preset brightness storage. “0” can be entered
as the second digit for the automatic dimming rate.
Once the automatic dimming rate and the preset brightness level values are stored, they will remain with these
settings unless changed again. The settings will remain
even if there is a power blackout or if the Automatic Lamp
Dimmer is switched off at the mains.
The first time power is connected to the Automatic Lamp
Dimmer, the lamp will initially be set to off.
Acknowledgement
Whenever the Automatic Lamp Dimmer receives an
infrared remote control signal, the acknowledge LED will
flash on and off at a rapid rate. It will do this for any remote
control code whether it is the correct one or not.
During automatic dimming, the auto dimming LED will
flash at a one-second rate. This is very useful when the
dimming rate is set to a long period, since the LED then
indicates that the sequence has started even though it is not
noticeable by the dimming of the lamp. It also indicates that
the preset dimming level can be set and/or the dimming
rate can be programmed, if required.
If a number is pressed, the auto dimming LED will flash
rapidly for around 0.5 seconds to show that the number
or dimming level has been recorded. The second number
can be entered when this rapid flashing of the LED has
stopped.
Also, it is possible to enter the “0” to record the dimming
levels, then two other numbers to record the dimming rate
if both values are to be changed. Alternatively, just the dimming rate (eg, 25) can be entered or just the dimming preset
level using the “0” can be entered on their own.
Phase control
The lamp brightness is controlled by a phase control
circuit.
When a lamp is driven from the full mains supply, the
filament is supplied with current from 240V AC. 240V is
the “rms”, or root-mean-square, value of the AC waveform.
Incidentally, it equates (in a resistive load such as an incandescent load) to exactly the same amount of applied power
as would be applied by a DC (direct current) source. Put
another way, a light globe will be exactly the same bright15
CRYSTAL
TIMEBASE
START
NEUTRAL
RB0 (6)
ZERO VOLTAGE
NEGATIVE EDGE
DETECTOR
16
Fig.3: the block diagram shows how
the neutral line is used for setting
the various trigger points used in
the dimmer.
LOCK
CLOCK
RESET
ACKNOWLEDGE
λ
LED1
RA1 (18)
λ
RA0 (17)
LED2
TIMER 1
X1
20MHz
BRIGHTNESS
COUNTER
0–250
COMPARATOR
BRIGHTNESS
LEVEL REGISTER
& OPERATION
RB1-2-3
(7,8,9)
TRIAC
GATE
TRIGGER
20–250
AUTODIM
RB5 (11)
RB6 (12)
RB7 (13)
IR
SIGNAL
λ
DECODING
RB4 (10)
IR MONITOR
TIMER 1
IC2
AMPLIFIER
DEMODULATOR
28 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
(+5V)
LEDS
470 µF
16V
K
A
LED1
470Ω
λ
K
A
1k
IC2
LED2
λ
K
A
100nF
OSC1
RA0
OSC2
2
100nF
100 µF
16V
RB7
2
1
10
IC2
IR RX
SHIELD
BOX
ZENER DIODE
–
SC
2005
+
RB4
A
A1
TRIAC1
BT137F
16
100nF
250VAC
(CLASS X2)
K
D1
1N4004
A
A2
X1 20MHz
15
L1
75 µH
RB0
11
LK1
12
LK2
13
LK3
MAINS
INPUT
N
N
E
CODE
SELECT
LINKS
E
1.5M 1W
6
Vss
5
BT137F
4.7nF
FR102, 1N4004
A
220nF
250VAC
(CLASS X2)
1k
1W
MAINS
OUTLET
33pF
A
RB6
λ
K
G
33pF
RB5
3
–
D2 FR102
39Ω
IC1
PIC16F628A
-20P
3
1
ZD1
5.6V
1W
2.2k
4
14
Vdd
MCLR
7
RB1
8
RB2
18
9
RA1
RB3
17
A
+
K
AUTOMATIC LAMP DIMMER
A2
A1
G
WARNING: COMPONENTS & WIRING
ARE AT 240V MAINS POTENTIAL
WHEN THE CIRCUIT IS OPERATING.
CONTACT MAY BE LETHAL!
Fig.4: here is the complete circuit. A PIC16F628A handles most of the hard work. Please note the warning above!
ness powered by 240V rms or 240V DC.
The peak value to which the AC voltage rises is significantly more than the rms value – in fact, it’s exactly 1.4142
times – or about 340V. (It’s about 340V and not exactly 340V
because 240V rms is what the electricity supply authority
aims for – but it can be ±5% so could actually be anywhere
from about 228V to 252V).
For a 240V AC supply, this means that the voltage will
swing from 0V up to around +340V before dropping to zero
again. The voltage then swings negative to –340V before
going back up to 0V again. The whole process repeats in a
sinusoidal waveform at a frequency of 50Hz.
Why 50Hz? Because that is the carefully-controlled but
again average frequency at which the power is generated
back at the power station.
If the voltage is only connected to the lamp at say when
the voltage is at 340V, the supply to the lamp and hence
its brightness will be greatly reduced as shown in Fig.1b.
This is because power is only applied to the lamp for half
the time – the first part of the “cycle” is wasted.
The supply to the lamp is switched off again when the
voltage drops to zero. This happens because we are using
a Triac to do the switching and Triacs turn themselves off
when the voltage (or more correctly the current) drops to
zero – see Fig.1.
This method of lamp dimming is called phase control. By
altering the point in the cycle where the voltage is applied
to the lamp, we can provide dimming from fully off through
to fully on. Fully off is where the lamp is never provided
with current, while fully lit is when the voltage is applied
to the lamp at the beginning of the mains cycle. Dimming
levels in-between the full brightness and the fully off range
can be set by switching the lamp on at a time other than at
siliconchip.com.au
the beginning of the mains cycle.
Circuitry for the Automatic Lamp Dimmer uses phase
control and divides up the each half of the mains waveform into 250 discrete sections – 250 between the 0° to
180° positive half cycle excursion and 250 from the 180°
to 360° negative half cycle.
Each discrete section corresponds to about 0.72°, as
shown in Fig.2. The two extremes over which the circuit
will dim the lights are from 14° through to 158°. The 14°
setting gives maximum brightness (ie, lamp fully on) and
the 158° provides the minimum brightness (lamp fully off)
phase setting.
Why not 0° and 180°?
The reason for limiting the dimming range between 14°
and 158° is to ensure that the lamp is not switched in the
previous half cycle or into the next half cycle. This could
happen with a wider dimming range because the zero
voltage crossing detection has a degree of uncertainty due
to filtering that produces phase changes. Tolerances in the
filter components will alter the phase and hence the zero
voltage detection point in the mains waveform.
Block diagram
Fig.3 shows the general arrangement of the automatic
dimmer circuit. Most of the operation, with the exception
of the infrared amplifier demodulator (IC2), is performed
by a PIC16F628A microcontroller, programmed to perform
phase control (IC1).
It accepts inputs from the mains and from IC2 and provides an output to drive the gate of a Triac.
The mains Neutral input (pin 6) provides the phase information. Each time the voltage goes negative, the microJuly 2005 29
Timer 1 in increments of 800ns either faster
or slower over each 10ms period. Should the
100nF
100 µF
A
brightness counter alter from its 250 count at
ZD1
D2
REMMID OTUA
each zero crossing, Timer 1 is adjusted to com33pF
L1
pensate for the difference.
By remaining in lock, the lamp filament will
IC2
X1
IR RX
TRIAC1
)tuo( A
produce a rock steady level even at very low
CABLE
CS
33pF
4.7nF
TIE
brightness levels. Without the locking, the
1k
1.5M 1W
LED2
lamp could have a slight flicker under phase
470Ω
220nF
control.
4004
250V AC
1k 1W
N
LED1
D1
470 µF
The infrared signal is detected by IC2, an
amplifier/demodulator.
This converts the reTO POWERBOARD
TO POWERBOARD
NEUTRAL
SOCKET ACTIVE
mote control’s modulated 38kHz pulses into
digital levels that can be read by the IR monitor.
Fig.5: all components are mounted on a single PC board which in turn
Decoding into digital levels occurs at the rate
is housed inside the powerboard case. Below is a same-size photo of
set by the Timer 2 which is also locked to the
the board from above. Note that the Triac (centre of picture) is bent
mains frequency.
over about 40° to allow it to fit inside the case.
If the mains frequency happened to drift too
far off 50Hz, then the remote control decoding
would not operate correctly and would result
in loss of remote control operation. Fortunately,
the mains frequency is well within 5% of 50Hz
and with this variation the remote control will
still operate the Automatic Lamp Dimmer.
The IR monitor signal is compared with
known codes in the decoding section. Input
pins 11, 12 and 13 select the particular code
that is used, with four different codes available.
When the selected, stored code is the same as
controller senses this and so is provided with a reference the received remote control code, the brightness register
position for the phase of the mains waveform.
is altered in response to the particular button pressed on
The zero-voltage negative-edge detector resets the bright- the remote control. For example, if slow down-dimming
ness counter whenever the voltage is zero. After resetting, is selected, the brightness level register is increased to
the brightness counter is incremented by 1 every 40ms from decrease lamp brightness.
0 up to 250. By the time the count reaches 250, some 10ms
The comparator monitors both the brightness level reghas elapsed which is half the wavelength of the mains cycle, ister and the brightness counter. When they are equal, the
the zero voltage crossing point for the second half cycle.
comparator provides a pulse to drive the Triac gate.
The 40ms brightness counter is clocked from timer 1,
If the brightness level register is a low value, this value
driven by a 20MHz crystal time base. It is important that will be equal to the brightness counter early in the mains
the brightness counter reaches the count of 250 exactly at cycle to provide a bright lamp. If the brightness level register
the zero crossing point.
is a larger value, the value will be equal to the brightness
This may not happen unless Timer 1 is locked to the counter later in the mains cycle and so the lamp will be
mains. Without locking, the brightness counter could be dimmer.
anywhere between 225 and 275, depending on the mains
frequency. (Over time, the average mains frequency is held The circuit
very accurately at 50Hz but in the short term can drift a
Considering the complexity of the Automatic Lamp Dimlittle).
mer operation, there is not too much in the actual circuit itself.
We therefore lock the counter to the mains by adjusting This is because the complexity is all taken care of within the
100nF
250V AC
39Ω
FR102
2.2k
ACTIVE OF POWER
BOARD CORD
IC1 PIC16F628-20P
100nF
5040DACJ
SHIELD CAN MADE FROM
USB TYPE B SOCKET
The modified Powertech powerboard before the insertion of the PC board. Here we’ve cut away the bus bars, removed part
of the plastic moulding and drilled the holes for the two LEDs and the infrared signal bezel (far right).
30 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
And here’s another view of the PC board,
this time at an angle to show the relative height
of the components. In this shot, the two LEDs can be
seen proud of the top of the 100nF capacitor (yellow,
back of pic) to allow them to poke through the top of
the powerboard and the “panel”.
microcontroller (IC1). Apart from this IC, there is only the
infrared decoder (IC2), a Triac, several diodes, a crystal and
an inductor, plus a few resistors and capacitors.
The Triac is connected between the mains Active and the
lamp via an inductor (L1). This inductor, in conjunction
with the 100nF 250VAC capacitor, provides suppression
of electromagnetic radiation caused by the Triac switching. The inductor core is made from iron powder, which
is lossy at high frequencies (above about 1MHz) and so
prevents (or at least minimises) EMR from being radiated
via the power wiring.
Power for the circuit is derived from the mains supply
via a 220nF 250VAC mains capacitor and a 1kW 1W resistor.
The capacitor and resistor act as a current limiting impedance for the following zener diode, ZD1.
The supply is derived in two steps. Firstly, supply is
limited to 5V as diode D1 conducts when the mains voltage
goes below the ground supply, pulling the anode of ZD1 to
some 0.6V below the ground supply. This causes the zener
to clamp the supply voltage to 5V (5.6V-0.6V).
Secondly, when the mains swings above the ground
supply, current can flow through the forward-biased zener
diode and into the 470mF supply decoupling capacitor to
top up the supply.
Apart from the 470mF supply smoothing capacitor, both
IC1 and IC2 have 100nF capacitors across their supply to
provide high frequency decoupling. IC2 is further decoupled with a 100mF capacitor.
Power for IC1 is supplied between pins 14 and 5. Pin
4 is a brownout input – should the supply drop below
about 4V, the IC will be held reset until the supply voltage
rises above the 4V level. This brownout reset ensures the
microcontroller will operate correctly after the brownout
has ended.
Infrared code selection inputs are at the RB5, RB6 and
RB7 pins. These pins can be left open or tied low with the
linking to ground. When the microcontroller is reset after
power is applied or after a brownout, the RB5, RB6 and
RB7 inputs are pulled high via internal pull-ups within
IC1. A check is made to determine whether the pins are all
held high or if one is tied low via one of the links. This sets
the remote control code that will operate the Automatic
Lamp Dimmer. After this, the RB5, RB6 and RB7 input
pull-up resistors are deselected and these inputs are set
as low outputs.
We need to set the RB5 – RB7 inputs as outputs to prevent them from floating and drawing excess current from
the supply. The removal of the pull-up resistors from the
inputs also removes the internal pull-up for RB0. This input
detects the zero voltage crossing of the mains via a 1.5MW
resistor and 4.7nF filter capacitor. The pull-up resistor is
not required for the zero voltage detection since its value
can vary from part to part, making the filter phase response
too variable. This could produce an incorrect detection
of the zero voltage crossing and causing faulty dimming
characteristics such as flashing of the lamp.
IC1 outputs RB1, RB2 and RB3 drive the gate of Triac1 via
a 39W resistor and fast diode D2. Gate current is limited to
around 50mA because of the resistor. The diode prevents
the 0.7V present on the gate when the Triac is switched on
from feeding back into IC1.
Outputs RA1 and RA0 drive the “acknowledge” and “auto
dim” LEDs respectively. The Acknowledge LED is driven
with short bursts of high levels from RA1 and the 470W
Now the new PC board has been placed and connections made back to the bus bars as required. What is not obvious here
is that those connections should not just rely on the soldered joint; the wires should be twisted around the bus bars first.
siliconchip.com.au
July 2005 31
inside a shield to protect it as much as possible from external fields.
Construction
To open the
powerboard, you’ll
need a tri-wing screwdriver
bit. They’re commonly available
but if you don’t have one on hand,
do what we did and grind the end of an
old screw-driver blade into a triangle the
right size. Don’t knock it: it works!
resistor sets the current for sufficient LED brightness. The
Auto Dimming LED is driven with slightly wider pulses
and so can be driven with a lower current using the 1kW
resistor. It is important that there is not too much current
drawn from the supply as this is limited by that which
can be delivered via the 220nF capacitor and 1kW resistor
connecting to the mains Neutral.
The 20MHz crystal X1 provides IC1 with an accurate
clock signal for the timing requirements in the phase control
driver and remote control functions. The 33pF capacitors
provide the correct loading for the crystal to ensure reliable
starting of the oscillator when power is applied.
IC2 receives and demodulates the codes from the infrared
remote control. It incorporates an amplifier and automatic
gain control plus a 38kHz bandpass filter to accept only
remote control signals. Upon detection of an infrared signal, it detects and removes the 38kHz carrier. The resulting
signal is applied to the RB4 input of IC1.
The high gain of IC2 makes it susceptible to interference from the switching of the Triac. The software has
been planned so that the remote control signal is only
monitored when interference is at a minimum. Interference
does, however, affect the gain of IC2, which shuts down
the gain as interference is detected due to its automatic
gain feature. This gain reduction reduces infrared remote
control range.
To help prevent this reduction in gain, IC2 is housed
MAINS
CORD
NEUTRAL
(BLUE)
The Automatic Lamp Dimmer is constructed on a PC
board coded 10107051, measuring 96 x 35mm. It is mounted
inside a 4-way power board.
The power board provides us with a case, a power lead
and mains plug plus the mains outlet. The power board
is modified by blocking off three of the four mains outlets
to make space for the dimmer circuitry. A cover plate is
mounted over the blocked off sockets and secured with
Nylon screws. Two LED indicators protrude through this
cover plate.
Begin by checking the PC board against the published
pattern to ensure there are no shorts between tracks or any
breaks in the copper. Repair these if necessary.
First components to install are the resistors – use the
colour code table as a guide to selecting each value and/
or use a multimeter to check each value.
Solder in the socket for IC1, making sure the orientation
is correct. Capacitors can also be inserted and soldered in
place. The electrolytic types must be oriented with the
polarity shown on the layout diagram, as must the diodes.
Also ensure each is installed in its correct position. Install
the Triac and crystal (the latter is not polarised).
IC2 is mounted in the position shown with the leads bent
forward and then upwards so that the lens section of the
device is still vertical and located about 5mm back from
the edge of the PC board.
We made a shield for IC2 from a USB connector. Unclip
and open up the rear of the USB socket’s shield and slide
out the internal part. Bend back the rear flap on the shield
to its closed position and insert the shield in place over
IC2 and solder the mounting tabs to the PC board. The
rear flap of the shield may need to be soldered in position
since the bending process will have weakened the metal
where it was bent.
Inductor L1 is wound using 38 turns of 0.5mm enamelled
copper wire, wound neatly, tightly and evenly around the
core. This coil may produce a buzzing noise in the Auto-
ACTIVE (FROM MAINS CORD VIA OVERLOAD SWITCH)
(BROWN)
EARTH
(GRN/YEL)
OVERLOAD
SWITCH
BRASS
BUSBARS
ACTIVE
(BROWN)
TOP OF POWER BOARD
(UNDERSIDE VIEW)
AUTODIMMER
PC BOARD
(UNDERSIDE
VIEW)
NEUTRAL
(BLUE)
EARTH WIRE
(GREEN/YELLOW)
Fig. 6: here’s how the new PC board fits into the modified powerboard, along with the connections required. Note that
this diagram is for the Powertech (Jaycar MS4040) – other powerboards might be different. This diagram also gives you
a good idea of where the busbars must be cut – a sharp pair of tinsnips is required here.
32 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
matic Lamp Dimmer, caused by the phase control method
of dimming that produces sudden changes in current and
movement in the wires.
To prevent this happening, you can coat the windings
in some epoxy resin before installing the core on the PC
board. When the resin is dry, insert the wires into the PC
board holes where shown and secure the toroid in place
with the cable tie. Strip off the wire insulation near the
underside of the PC board using a sharp hobby knife and
solder the wires in place.
Note that if you are using red-coloured enamelled wire,
the insulation can be stripped with a hot soldering iron.
Brass-coloured enamel will not strip under soldering iron
heat and will need to be scraped off.
LED1 and LED2 are mounted so that the top of each is
25mm above the top of the PC board. The longer lead of each
LED is the anode. The tops should not protrude through
the panel when assembled but be level with its surface.
Leave the remote control code linking options for LK1
to LK3 open for the present.
Modifying the powerboard
We used a Powertech 4-way powerboard (from Jaycar
Electronics) to house the project. Other powerboards may
not have the same clearances nor setup inside.
The powerboard requires modification in order for the
PC board to fit inside. Firstly, you will need to open it up
– most (as ours did) use tamper-resistant screws to stop
you doing just that!
The specified powerboard uses tri-wing screws, requiring
a tri-wing screwdriver bit to open them. We didn’t have
one so we used a bench grinder to grind an old screwdriver
blade down to a triangular shape, then bent it over to make
a handle. It’s rough . . . but it worked!
Inside the power board you will see that there are brass
bus bars to carry the Active, Neutral and Earth connections. The three far end sockets (those further away from
the mains inlet cord) need to be cleared to make room for
the PC board. This is done by cutting back the bus bars so
that they are available for the first mains socket but not for
the final three.
Also, the plastic moulding will need to be removed to
make space for the PC board components. This plastic can
be removed with a small flat nosed set of pliers by twisting
and breaking the plastic out from the case.
The infrared receiver bezel is actually the front part of
a red plastic neon bezel. Clip the power board casings together and drill out the hole in the end of the case to suit
the bezel – it should be small enough so that the bezel is
The powerboard we used for this project was a Powertech
(Jaycar) MS4040. The PC board is designed to fit this one.
siliconchip.com.au
Parts List – Automatic Lamp Dimmer
1 PC board, code 10107051, 96 x 35mm
1 4-way mains power board
(Powertech [Jaycar] MS4040 used in prototype)
1 pre-programmed “universal” infrared remote control
(with channel numbers, volume and channel up and
down plus mute and operate buttons)
1 133 x 51 x 3mm Perspex sheet (to cover three mains
sockets)
1 powdered iron toroidal core, 28 x 14 x 11mm
1 B-type USB PC-mount socket (for the metal shield
only)
1 20MHz crystal (X1)
4 M3 x 10mm Nylon screws
4 M3 nuts
1 all-plastic 240V red Neon Bezel (eg, Jaycar Sl-2630)
1 1.6m length of 0.5mm enamelled copper wire
1 150mm length of brown 10A mains wire
1 100mm length of blue 10A mains wire
1 200mm long cable tie
Semiconductors
1 PIC16F628A microcontroller
programmed with autolamp.hex (IC1)
1 BT137F 600V 8A Triac (Triac1)
1 infrared receiver decoder (IC2)
1 5.6V 1W zener diode (ZD1)
1 1N4004 1A 400V diode (D1)
1 FR102 fast diode (D2)
2 5mm high-intensity red LEDs (LED1,LED2)
Capacitors
1 470mF 16V electrolytic
1 100mF 16V electrolytic
1 220nF 250VAC X2 polyester
1 100nF 250VAC X2 polyester
2 100nF MKT polyester
1 4.7nF MKT polyester
2 33pF ceramic
Resistors (0.25W 1%)
1 1.5MW 1W 5%
1 2.2kW
1 1kW
1 470W
1 1kW 1W 5%
1 39W
held in securely when the power board is screwed together.
Use some Super Glue to secure the bezel to one half of the
casing if it can be prised out of its hole. Two holes will be
required for the LEDs in the top of the case.
The cover plate is essential – it stops the unwary (or unknowing) trying to use the powerboard as a powerboard and
possibly damaging components inside. Make up the cover
plate to suit the powerboard you are modifying (use the photos
as a guide) – it covers three of the four mains sockets. The
two LED holes are also drilled into this plate.
The plate is secured with Nylon screws, necessary as they
provide insulation from the mains voltages inside the powerboard. We also recommend melting the Nylon screw ends
over the nuts once installed to prevent them from becoming
unscrewed. A hot soldering iron will do this.
On the particular power board we used, there are two
slotted holes at the rear, designed to allow the powerboard
to be secured to a wall using screws. We recommend that
July 2005 33
Capacitor Codes
Resistor Colour Codes
p
p
p
p
p
p
No.
1
1
1
1
1
1
Value
1.5MW
2.2kW
1kW
1kW
470W
39W
4-band Code (1%)
5-band Code (1%)
brown green green gold (5%)
red red red brown
red red black brown brown
brown black red gold (5%)
brown black red brown
brown black black brown brown
yellow violet brown brown yellow violet black black brown
orange white black brown
orange white black gold brown
Value
220nF
100nF
4.7nF
33pF
mF
IEC Code
0.22mF
220nF
0.1mF
100nF
.0047mF
4n7
N/A
33p
EIA Code
224
104
472
33
10107051
you fill the hole that is located beneath the dimmer
A
PC board with some Silicone sealant. This is because
AUTO DIMMER
there is a possibility (admittedly remote) that some
thin metal object could be poked through the hole
onto back of the PC, with possible dire consequences.
Better to be safe than sorry, as mum used to say!
A (out)
SC
The Active bus bar will need to be disconnected
from the main active supply lead so that the dimmer
circuitry can intercept the Active before the mains
N
outlet. The Earth lead connection may need to be
relocated nearer to the mains socket. Make sure the Fig. 8: the full-size PC board pattern – use this to check
wire is well soldered to the earth bus bar – it’s always the etching and drilling of commercial boards, or use it to
best to make a mechanical joint (ie, wrap the wire photographically etch your own PC board.
around the bus bar) which can hold by itself, then
solder in place.
191 coding is that for a Philips TV set. If you are using a
Wire up as shown and cut the neon bezel so that its length different remote control, try the codes listed for Philips
will just reach the metal shield for IC2 when installed brand TV sets.
into the case. The project is now electrically complete but
Plug a 40W (or more) 240V lamp into the power board
before you reassemble the power board, give it a thorough socket and plug the powerboard plug into a mains power
visual check.
socket.
When you’re satisfied everything is as it should be,
Check that the dimming can be set with the channel
screw the two halves of the power board together with the up and down buttons and that slow dimming works. The
tri-wing screws.
Mute button should switch the lamp on and off. Check that
Don’t be tempted to work on the next part of the project, the automatic dimming works by pressing the appropriate
testing, before assembling the powerboard. Live wiring is button. If it does not work, check that the correct code has
dangerous.
been entered into the remote. Observe operation of the
LEDs during these tests.
Testing
If the remote control also activates other items that are
Before testing, you will need to set the remote control located in the same room where you will be using the
to the appropriate coding. It is most unlikely that you will Automatic Dimmer, then the remote control coding will
find any “universal” remote control which cannot be used need changing.
with this project.
The coding is changed by selecting one of the optional
For the remote control we used, the “Big Shot 3 in 1” codes such as VCR1, SAT1 or SAT2. Generally, the SAT2
remote, the process is to press the SET and TV buttons selection is a good choice. This is selected by soldering a
together and then enter the numbers 191. For other re- bridge for link 3 on the dimmer PC board. Before doing
mote controls, the process may be slightly different. The this make sure (twice!) that the powerboard is unplugged
from the mains so that it is safe to open.
The hand-held remote will need to be programmed
for the code selection. To select SAT2, press SET and
SAT together and then enter the numbers 425. This
number may be different for another type of remote
control unit. If selecting SAT1 use the numbers 424
and for VCR1, use 336. Also the linking on the dimLK3
mer PC board will need to be changed.
LK2
Note that for the VCR1 selection, the on and off
LK1
function using the Mute button will not operate the
Automatic Lamp Dimmer. Instead it will operate the
mute in a TV set that works with the TV1 selection
SOLDER LK1 FOR VCR1
REMOTE CONTROL
LK2 FOR SAT1
CODING SELECTION
on the remote.
LK3 FOR SAT2
LEAVE ALL THREE OPEN FOR TV1
This feature is called punch-through, where selecFig.7: this view of the copper side of the PC board shows the three tions that do not have a mute feature are operated
by the TV code.
links which set the correct infrared decoding (see text).
SC
N
A
AUTO DIMMER
SC
10107051
A (out)
34 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Salvage It!
BY JULIAN EDGAR
Salvaging & using common thermostats
Thermostats are attached to or buried in lots
of consumer items and are easy to salvage.
Here’s a look at the common types and some
hints on how they’re used.
N
EED TO CONTROL A FAN, heater
or pump on the basis of temperature? It’s a common requirement that
can be achieved using an electronic
circuit with a thermocouple or thermistor input.
However, it’s much cheaper and
easier to use a thermostat salvaged
from a junked consumer item. Whether
you need to switch at room temperature or 200°C, the thermostat doesn’t
have to cost you a cent.
How they work
A thermostat is basically an adjustable temperature switch. Nearly all
thermostats that you can salvage work
in a similar way.
A special piece of metal – called a
bi-metallic strip – is the basis of the
design. As its name suggests, this strip
is actually two different metals joined
together. These two metals have different expansion rates so as they are
heated, one gets longer faster than the
other. This causes the strip to bend.
When it has bent far enough (ie, it’s
hot enough!), it breaks the connection
between two electrical contacts, turning off the circuit. The switching temperature is varied by using a threaded
rod to vary the distance between the
electrical contacts and the bimetallic
strip.
As you can imagine, in this type
of design the electrical contacts open
and close very slowly. In certain applications, this could cause arcing, so
many thermostat designs use a “snap
action” approach, where a small leaf
You could pay lots for a professional looking thermostat
like this… or instead use a salvaged frypan thermostat
and a handful of other components to make your own for
nearly nothing.
siliconchip.com.au
spring causes the contacts to quickly
snap open or snap closed once the trip
point has been reached.
Another type of thermostat uses
a remotely-mounted “bulb”. This
comprises a small copper cylinder
(usually about as big as a short pencil)
which is connected to the main switch
mechanism by small-bore copper tube.
The tube and the bulb are filled with
a liquid or gas that expands as it gets
warm and the resulting fluid pressure
activates the switch.
Common consumer goods in which
bimetallic strip thermostats are used
include oil-filled electric space heaters, electric frypans and clothes irons.
Remote bulb thermostats are used in
old electric water bed heaters. Table
1 shows the characteristics of each of
these types.
Selecting a thermostat
Scrounge a few of the abovementioned consumer items (eg, during a
council clean-up) and in no time at
all you’ll have more thermostats than
you know what to do with! So let’s
Electric frypan thermostats use a stainless steel probe that
can be inserted through the wall of a pipe or into liquids.
They can be adjusted to trip at temperatures from about
40-200°C.
July 2005 35
Rat It Before You
Chuck It!
Fig.1: most thermostats are normally closed designs – ie,
they open when the set-point temperature is reached.
But by using a double throw relay, it’s possible to turn on
something when the thermostat opens, as shown here.
This circuit shows how to switch on a 12V DC fan at
temperatures above the thermostat set-point.
Fig.2: when a relay is used, adding LEDs to show the operating status of the thermostat is easy. In this case, LED1 lights
when the fan is off, while LED2 lights when the fan is on.
take a look at the characteristics of
each design.
Frypan thermostat: electric frypans (and
electric woks) use a thermostat that’s
integrated into the module that plugs
into the handle. The module has a
knob on it (for setting the temperature)
and a stainless steel probe, about the
length of your little finger (but a bit
smaller in diameter).
These thermostats can be set to
operate from about 40-200°C. Their
design makes them suitable for applications where the probe needs to
remotely sense temperature; eg, by
being pushed through a grommet
and into a pipe. The hysteresis (ie,
the difference between the switch-on
and switch-off temperatures) is fairly
small and they react quite quickly to
temperature changes.
Both “snap-action” and “slow-moving” thermostats are used in frypans,
with later models more likely to be
the “snap-action” type. It’s very easy
to tell if you’re salvaging a snap-action
thermostat: hold the control box up to
your ear as you slowly turn the knob. If
you hear a satisfying “click”, you know
you’re got a snap-action type.
Clothes iron thermostats: clothes irons
also use bi-metallic thermostats. And
despite being controlled by a knob or
lever placed on top of the iron, the
thermostat is mounted deep inside
the iron. In fact, one end of the bime-
Table 1: Characteristics Of Common Thermostats
Temperature
Range
Hysteresis
Sensitivity
Action
Sensing
Electric Frypan
Thermostat
Clothes Iron
Thermostat
Oil-Filled Heater
Thermostat
Wide (40-200°C)
Fairly wide
(60-200°C)
Narrow (5-50°C) Narrow (25-50°C)
Small
Large
Small
Small
Medium
Low
High
High
Most snap action
All snap action
All snap action
Many not snap
action
Short stainless
steel probe
36 Silicon Chip
Whole thermostat Whole thermostat
Water Bed
Thermostat
Remote copper
bulb
Whenever you throw away an old
TV (or VCR or washing machine or
dishwasher or printer) do you always
think that surely there must be some
good salvageable components inside?
Well, this column is for you! (And it’s
also for people without a lot of dough.)
Each month we’ll use bits and pieces
sourced from discards, sometimes in
mini-projects and other times as an
ideas smorgasbord.
And you can contribute as well. If you
have a use for specific parts which can
easily be salvaged from goods commonly being thrown away, we’d love
to hear from you. Perhaps you use the
pressure switch from a washing machine to control a pump. Or maybe you
salvage the high-quality bearings from
VCR heads. Or perhaps you’ve found
how the guts of a cassette player can
be easily turned into a metal detector.
(Well, we made the last one up but you
get the idea . . .)
If you have some practical ideas,
write in and tell us!
tallic strip is actually bolted to the
aluminium baseplate.
These thermostats are “snap action”
types and react more slowly than frypan thermostats (to ignore short-term
temperature spikes). As a result, their
hysteresis is also larger. Typically, they
are suitable for sensing temperatures
from about 60-200°C.
Because they don’t use a remote
probe, this type of thermostat is useful
when the temperature of the general
environment needs to be sensed.
Oil-filled heater thermostats: as with
clothes iron thermostats, oil-filled
heater thermostats are designed to
sense the temperature of their environment and don’t have a sensing probe.
These thermostats are quite sensitive,
have a small hysteresis and work at
room temperatures, making them ideal
for activating fans inside electrical
equipment.
Water bed heater thermostats: these thermostats use a remote bulb, allowing
temperature sensing at a point remote
from the thermostat itself. They can
be set very precisely over the 25-50°C
range, are quite sensitive and have a
small hysteresis. However, the bulb
siliconchip.com.au
Ta ke C are With
M ain s Vol t age s !
Although thermostats can be
used to directly control mains
voltages, we’ve covered only lowvoltage DC switching in this
article.
Make sure that you’re up to
speed with mains power wiring
before attempting to use salvaged
thermostats in high voltage applications. If you don’t know what
you’re doing, the results could
prove fatal!
Every discarded electric iron has a thermostat mounted inside. These snapaction thermostats can be used to switch at temperatures from about 60-200°C.
may be too bulky for some applications and the sensing tube cannot be
altered in length.
Using thermostats
Nearly all thermostats open when
the trip-point is reached. This is because they were designed to control
heating elements that need to be
switched off when the temperature rises sufficiently. In other words, they’re
“normally closed” (NC) designs.
Brand New From
SILICON CHIP
Only the one pair of contacts is provided, so what do we do when want
to turn something on (rather than
off) when the trip-point is reached?
This is easily achieved with a doublethrow relay and Fig.1 shows how it’s
wired.
It’s also easy to add a couple of LEDs
to indicate the switching status of the
thermostat. Fig.2 shows how to do
this. In this case, LED1 lights when
the fan is off (thermostat closed), while
LED2 lights when the fan is running
(thermostat open).
The two 560W resistors limit the
current through each LED to about
SC
18mA.
160 PAGES
23 CHAPTE
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From the publishers of
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• Learn how engine management systems work
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We explain the why as well as the how to!
Intelligent
turbo timer
I SBN 095852294 - 4
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How engine
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Available direct from Silicon Chip Publications, PO Box 139, Collaroy, NSW 2097. Phone (02) 9979 5644; Fax (02) 9979
6503. Email silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au or visit our website: www.siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
July 2005 37
By JIM ROWE
Lead-acid
Battery Zapper!
This simple circuit is designed to extend the
working life of liquid-electrolyte lead-acid
batteries, by dissolving the lead-sulphate
crystals which form on their plates. It’s
powered by the battery itself (or by a charger)
and “zaps” the battery with a series of highvoltage pulses.
L
EAD-ACID BATTERIES have been
around for over 170 years now –
ever since Gaston Plante built the first
one back in 1834. They are used in
huge numbers all around the world,
mainly in the automotive industry.
There’s at least one in virtually every
car, truck and bus to start the engine
and power ancillary equipment, while
multiple lead-acid batteries are also
used in many electric vehicles to
38 Silicon Chip
provide the motive power.
They’re also used in large numbers for energy storage in solar and
wind power plants. And by the way,
we’re talking about “wet” or liquid
electrolyte batteries here (also called
“flooded” lead-acid batteries).
The lead-sulphate effect
Although we’d now be lost without
them, lead-acid batteries are not with-
out their faults. Probably their main
drawback is that they have a relatively
short working life, typically no more
than about three or four years.
Why is this? Well, every time energy
is drawn from a lead-acid battery, lead
and sulphate ions from the electrolyte
combine and are deposited on the
plates in the form of soft lead-sulphate
crystals. Then when the battery is recharged, these crystals dissolve again
in the sulphuric acid electrolyte.
More accurately, MOST of them
re-dissolve – but not all. Even if the
battery is never over-discharged and is
always recharged promptly after it has
been discharged, a small proportion
of the lead sulphate remains on the
plates. These then harden into “hard”
lead-sulphate crystals which are much
less soluble and less conductive than
before.
In practice, the formation of these
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1(a): during the first phase
of the circuit’s operation,
current flows from the battery
(or charger) and charges a
100mF electrolytic capacitor via
inductor L2.
hard lead-sulphate crystals gradually reduces the energy storage
capacity of the battery. It does this
both by masking the active areas on
the plates and also by reducing the
concentration of lead and sulphate
ions in the electrolyte.
This “sulphation” effect has been
understood for many years. It’s also
well known that the effect occurs much
faster if a battery is over-discharged,
left in a discharged state for more
than a few hours, or frequently under
charged. In fact, batteries mistreated in
any of these ways tend to have a very
short working life indeed.
For a long time, sulphation was regarded as non-reversible and batteries
that had lost too much capacity due to
this effect were simply discarded. This
was not only wasteful but was also an
environmental problem, because both
lead and sulphuric acid are highly
toxic materials.
Around the middle of last century,
though, people in rural areas discovered that they could “resuscitate” sulphated batteries by zapping them with
high-voltage pulses from their electric
fence controllers. They didn’t exactly
understand why this method worked
but kept using it because it did.
Subsequently, in 1976, the US
Patent Office granted a patent to William H. Clark of Salt Lake City, Utah,
for a method of charging lead-acid
batteries by means of narrow highcurrent pulses. This was claimed to
more effectively dissolve the lead
sulphate crystals and hence prolong
battery life. Since then a number of
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1(b): next, the switch is closed
for 50ms, and current flows from
the capacitor into L1. As a result,
the energy stored in the capacitor
is transferred to the inductor’s
magnetic field.
designs for pulse-type battery rejuvenators or “zappers” have appeared in
electronics magazines, including one
published in SILICON CHIP (Circuit
Notebook) in February 2003 .
There is still a lot of argument about
whether or not battery sulphation
can be reversed and hence about the
effectiveness of “zapper” type pulse
rejuvenators. Our prototype did initially seem to achieve a useful amount
of rejuvenation on a badly sulphated
battery (which later went short circuit)
but we really cannot vouch for the
overall effectiveness of this circuit. It
simply hasn’t been tested on a wide
enough range of batteries.
However, it’s cheap enough to build,
so interested readers can put one together and try it out for themselves.
By the way, please note that there is
evidence that only “flooded” (liquid
electrolyte) lead-acid batteries respond
to this type of pulse desulphation.
Sealed batteries with “gel” electrolyte
don’t respond much at all, so we don’t
recommend using the zapper on this
type of battery.
It’s also worth noting that even on
flooded lead-acid batteries, pulse desulphation is not quick. It can take tens
or even hundreds of hours to achieve
a significant amount of rejuvenation.
A problem with many of the published zapper designs, including the
one in our February 2003 issue, is that
they use a P-channel power MOSFET.
However, these are more expensive
and harder to obtain than N-channel
devices, so we’ve had quite a few requests for a new design using one of
Fig.1(c): finally, the switch opens
again, interrupting the inductor
current and causing a high-voltage
pulse across the inductor with the
polarity shown. The green arrow
shows the discharge current path.
the latter devices instead. And that’s
exactly what we’ve done, with the
design described here using a low-cost
IRF540N MOSFET.
How it works
The basic principle used in desulphating zappers is quite simple: they
draw a small amount of energy from
either the battery itself or a charger
connected to it, store this energy in a
capacitor and then deliver it back to
the battery as a narrow high-voltage
pulse. In other words, a short pulse of
current is forced through the battery
Disclaimer!
A
s stated in the article, our initial
experiences with the Lead-Acid
Battery Zapper indicated positive results. However, we must emphasise
that our testing has been much too
limited for us to make any claims or
give any guarantees regarding the
effectiveness of this unit.
In practice, you may find that the
zapper successfully “rejuvenates”
some batteries, particularly if the
battery has simply sulphated due
to lack of use. However, it cannot
possibly rejuvenate a battery that
is worn out – ie, one in which the
active material on the plates has
been severely degraded.
Depending on the battery, it’s
also possible that any rejuvenation
effects may be only temporary in
nature.
July 2005 39
Fig.2: the circuit for the battery zapper uses a 555 timer IC to turn MOSFET Q2 on for 50ms every 1ms (ie, at a 1kHz
rate). Q1 shorts Q2’s gate to ground each time IC1’s pin 3 output switches low, to ensure a fast turn off.
in the “charging” direction. It is these
short current pulses which are claimed
to dissolve the sulphate crystals (providing you’re patient).
Fig.1 shows the basic scheme. As
shown, the circuit consists of two small
inductors, a 100mF electrolytic capacitor,
a fast-recovery diode (D3) and a high
speed electronic switch. The switch is
actually the N-channel power MOSFET
(Q2) but it’s shown in Fig.1 as a switch
because that’s how it’s being used.
During the first phase of the circuit’s
operation (A), current flows from the
battery (or charger) and charges the
100mF electrolytic capacitor via 1mH
inductor L2. This charging phase lasts
about 950ms, which is quite long compared with the next phase.
Next, during the second phase of
operation (B), the switch is closed.
This connects 220mH inductor L1 to
ground (battery negative), resulting in
a sudden flow of current from the capacitor into L1. As a result, the energy
stored in the capacitor is transferred to
the inductor’s magnetic field.
This phase only lasts for about 50ms
– ie, just long enough for the energy
transfer to take place.
At the end of the second phase,
the switch is opened again (C). This
This view shows the completed PC
board. It’s dominated by the 1mH
and 220mH inductor coils.
sudden interruption of the inductor
current causes an immediate reversal
of the voltage across the inductor
and so a high-voltage pulse appears
across the inductor with the polarity
shown. As a result, a discharge current
pulse flows from the 100mF capacitor,
down through L1, up through diode
D3 and then out through the battery.
This is the third phase of the circuit’s
operation.
This sequence of events is repeated
indefinitely while ever the “zapper” is
connected to a 12V battery (or battery
and charger combination). That’s because as soon as the discharge energy
pulse from L1 has ended, the 100mF
capacitor begins charging again via L2.
So the remainder of the third phase
becomes the first phase of the next
charge-transfer-discharge cycle and
that’s how it keeps going.
Circuit details
Fig.2 shows the full circuit details
of the Lead-Acid Battery Zapper. It
incorporates all the circuitry shown
in Fig.1, plus some extra parts to
generate the short pulses to turn
MOSFET Q2 on for 50ms every
1ms. In other words, Q2’s
gate is driven with 50ms-wide
positive pulses at a rate of 1kHz,
which means that the pulses are
spaced 950ms apart.
40 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
This train of narrow pulses is
generated by 555 timer IC1, which is
connected as an astable oscillator.
Diode D1, the 10kW and 270kW
resistors, and the 4.7nF timing
capacitor ensure a very high markspace ratio at the pin 3 output. In
operation, D1 ensures that the 4.7nF
capacitor charges up very quickly via
the 10kW resistor but can only
discharge relatively slowly via
the 270kW resistor (ie, when the
internal discharge transistor on
pin 7 turns on). As a result, IC1’s
pin 3 output goes high for 50ms,
then low for 950ms and so on.
Transistor Q1 and diode D2 are used
to ensure that the pulse stream from
pin 3 of IC1 turns switch Q2 on and
(especially) off very rapidly. In effect,
they compensate for the charge stored
in Q2’s gate-channel capacitance when
the MOSFET is turned on.
They do this very simply: when
IC1’s output goes high, D2 conducts
and the pulse is applied directly to
Q2’s gate to turn it on. When IC1’s
output subsequently drops low again,
this suddenly turns on transistor Q1
and effectively connects a short-circuit
between Q2’s gate and ground. As a
result, the gate charge in Q2 is discharged very rapidly, making Q2 turn
off again in very short order.
There’s very little else left to explain. Inductor RFC1, the 100W series
resistor and zener diode ZD1 allow the
The PC board fits neatly inside a standard UB3
utility box and is secured using 6mm spacers
and machine screws & nuts.
+12V DC rail to be applied to IC1 but
block the high-voltage pulses generated in the output stage from reaching the IC. Fuse F1 is there to protect
the circuit from damage if the supply
leads to the battery (or charger) are
connected with reverse polarity.
Finally, D4 and ZD2 form a clamp
circuit to protect MOSFET Q2 from
voltage spikes.
Construction
Construction of the Lead-Acid Battery Zapper is straightforward, with
all parts (except for the fuse) mounted
on a PC board coded 14107051 and
measuring 122 x 57mm. This board
has cutouts in each corner so that it fits
snugly inside a standard UB-3 utility
box (130 x 67 x 44mm).
Fig.3 shows the assembly details. As
usual, it’s easiest to fit the low profile
resistors and inductor RFC1 first, followed by the smaller capacitors and
then the electrolytics. Note that the
electrolytics are polarised, so make
sure they go in the right way around.
Next, fit diodes D1 and D2, again
Fig.3: follow this parts layout diagram to build the PC board. Note that in the kit version, the large inductors are
each secured using two cable ties.
siliconchip.com.au
July 2005 41
Fig.4: this scope
shot shows the pulse
waveform at the
drain of MOSFET Q2.
Note the ringing in
the pulse waveform
following the main
voltage spike.
taking care to ensure correct polarity.
The same applies to zener diode ZD1,
which can also now go in.
That done, fit transistor Q1, MOSFET Q2 and diode D3, which is in a
2-pin TO220-style package similar to
the package for Q2. These devices are
all polarity sensitive, so again follow
Fig.3 carefully to ensure correct orientation. Follow these parts with IC1,
which should be fitted with its notched
end towards the 270kW resistor.
The last components to fit are the
two large air-cored inductors (L1 & L2).
These are wound on plastic bobbins,
with their wire ends emerging from
holes or slots in the lower cheek.
Securing the inductors
Both inductors on the prototype
were secured to the board using nylon
spacers inside their centre void, with
a screw at each end, along with an M3
flat washer and 16mm grommet at the
top of L1. This is the method shown in
the photos and on the wiring diagram
(Fig.3). However, the kit version will
have extra holes in the PC board, so
that each inductor can be secured
using two plastic cable ties.
Note that, in each case, the inductor’s leads must be passed through
their matching holes in the PC board
before they are secured in position.
Once they’re in position, the assembly
is turned over and their leads soldered
to their board pads.
untapped spacers and secured using
M3 x 12mm countersink head screws,
lockwashers and nuts.
The first step is to use the board
itself as a template to mark out the
mounting holes. That done, remove
the board, drill the holes to 3mm, and
use an oversize drill-bit to countersink
the holes from the back of the case.
A further two holes are required at
one end of the case to pass the battery
leads and these can be drilled to 4mm
about 10mm down from the top. The
panel-mount fuseholder is mounted at
the other end of the case and requires a
shaped hole to suit the threaded body.
This hole can initially be drilled to
4mm, then carefully enlarged using
a tapered reamer and shaped using a
small flat file.
That done, the board assembly can
be fitted to the case. This is done by
first installing the four screws and
fitting the 6mm-long spacers, after
which the board assembly can be
lowered into position while feeding
its negative (black) power lead out
through its matching hole at one end.
It’s then simply a matter of fitting the
lockwashers and nuts and tightening
up the screws, to secure the assembly
in place.
The next step is to cut the positive
(red) input/output lead about 120mm
from the end of the board and remove
about 5mm of insulation from the free
end. That done, fit the fuseholder to
the lefthand end of the case, with its
side solder lug uppermost for access,
and solder the positive lead from the
PC board to it.
The remaining red lead can then be
passed through its hole in the case and
soldered to the fuseholder’s other lug.
Note that you will have to dress this
lead carefully around L2 and the upper
tabs of D3 and Q2, so that it reaches
the fuseholder without strain.
Finally, complete the construction
by fitting the lid to the case and attaching the two 32mm alligator clips
to the far ends of the two input/output
leads. Be sure to fit the red clip to the
positive lead and the black clip to the
The PC board assembly is now
complete. However before fitting it
into the box, it’s a good idea to solder
the two supply leads to their pads at
the righthand end of the board. Just
strip 4mm of insulation from the end
of each length of cable, pass these
down through their respective holes
in the PC board (red to positive, black
to negative) and solder them to the PC
pads underneath.
Final assembly
The PC board assembly is supported
inside the case on four M3 x 6mm
WARNING!
Hydrogen gas (which is explosive)
is generated by lead-acid batteries
during charging. For this reason, be
sure to always charge batteries in a
well-ventilated area.
Never connect high-current loads
directly to a battery’s terminals. Similarly, when using a battery charger,
always connect its output leads to
the battery before switching on mains
power. Failure to observe these simple
precautions can lead to arcing at the
battery terminals and could even cause
the battery to explode!
Note too that the electrolyte inside
lead-acid batteries is corrosive, so
wearing safety glasses is always a
good idea.
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
o
o
o
o
o
No.
1
1
1
1
42 Silicon Chip
Value
270kW
15kW
10kW
100W
4-Band Code (1%)
red violet yellow brown
brown green orange brown
brown black orange brown
brown black brown brown
5-Band Code (1%)
red violet black orange brown
brown green black red brown
brown black black red brown
brown black black black brown
siliconchip.com.au
Fitting An On/Off Switch
Although not fitted to the prototype, we strongly recommend that a
switch be installed in series with the
positive battery lead to allow the unit
to be isolated during connection and
disconnection. This eliminates the
possibility of arcing at the battery
terminals.
Any miniature mains-rated switch
would be suitable, such as the Jaycar
SK-0975 miniature toggle switch. It
can be mounted on one end of the
case, next to the fuse.
Fig.5: how to install the on/off
switch. The 10nF capacitor across
the switch reduces contact arcing.
A 10nF 100V polyester capacitor
must be fitted directly across the
switch terminals, as shown in Fig.5.
Fig.6: here’s how to use a
charger with the Battery
Zapper. Note the 1mH
inductor in series with the
charger.
negative lead. Your battery zapper is
now complete and ready to use.
Putting it to use
Using the zapper is easy – just connect its leads to the terminals of the
battery you want to rejuvenate (red to
positive, black to negative).
There’s only one qualification: if
the battery is already so discharged
that it can’t supply the 50mA or so
needed to operate the zapper, you’ll
need to connect a conventional trickle
(or low-current) charger to the battery
as well – at least to get the rejuvenation process started (see Fig.6). And if
the battery is very badly sulphated as
well, you’ll have to keep the charger
connected for quite a while.
After that, it’s simply a matter of
leaving it to pulse away until the sulphate crystals inside the battery have
dissolved. This can take quite some
time – from a few days to a few weeks
– so you need to be patient.
If your charger doesn’t have an inbuilt current meter, you can connect an
ammeter in series with one of its leads
so that you can monitor the charging
rate. This should increase slowly as
the sulphate crystals dissolve.
By the way, if you do have to consiliconchip.com.au
WARNING!
This circuit generates high-voltage
pulses which could easily damage
the electronics in a vehicle. DO NOT
connect it to a car battery installed
in a vehicle.
nect a charger to the battery to power
the zapper, you must use a 1mH aircored inductor (the same as L2) in
series with one of the charger’s leads
(see Fig.6). There are two reasons for
this: (1) to protect the output circuitry
of the charger from possible damage; and (2) to prevent the charger’s
relatively low output impedance from
shunting the pulses, thereby reducing
their effectiveness.
It doesn’t always work
A final warning: not all lead-acid
batteries are capable of being desulphated by this zapper. In some batteries, the lead-sulphate crystals stubbornly resist the pulsing effect and the
battery can sometimes even develop a
short-circuit between the plates.
So if the battery charger current suddenly increases to a very high level,
Par t s Lis t
1 PC board, code 14107051,
122 x 57mm
1 UB3 utility box (130 x 67 x
44mm)
4 6mm-long untapped metal
spacers
4 M3 x 12mm machine screws,
countersink head
4 M3 nuts and star lockwashers
1 220mH air-cored crossover
inductor (L1)
1 1mH air-cored crossover
inductor (L2)
1 1mH RF choke (RFC1)
4 plastic cable ties (to secure
inductors L1 & L2)
1 M205 panel-mount fuseholder
1 3A slow-blow M205 fuse
1 1.5-metre length of heavy-duty
cable, red insulation
1 1-metre length of heavy-duty
cable, black insulation
1 pair of 32mm alligator clips
(red & black)
Semiconductors
1 555 timer (IC1)
1 BC327 PNP transistor (Q1)
1 IRF540N N-channel 100V/12A
MOSFET (Q2)
1 16V 1W zener diode (ZD1)
1 75V 1W zener diode (ZD2)
2 1N4148 diodes (D1,D2)
1 BY229-200 fast-recovery
diode (D3)
1 UF4004 ultra-fast diode (D4)
Capacitors
1 220mF 16V RB electrolytic
1 100mF 63V low-ESR RB
electrolytic
1 10nF greencap
1 4.7nF greencap
Resistors (0.25W 1%)
1 270kW
1 10kW
1 15kW
1 100W
Where To Buy A Kit
This project was sponsored by Jaycar Electronics and they own the
design copyright. A kit of parts is
available from Jaycar for $A39.95 –
Cat. KC-5414.
remove the power and write that battery off as one that cannot be saved. In
other words, there are no guarantees
that the zapper can resurrect all badly
SC
sulphated batteries – it can’t.
July 2005 43
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
Computer servicing: a hard slog
There’s no money fixing VCRs any more so I
reluctantly take on the odd computer to keep
busy. But fixing a virus-ridden computer is
really never much fun – give me a telly with
an intermittent fault any day!
Mr Bronwyn needed some help
getting his 2001 JVC AV29LS (CH
chassis) out of the car. That’s because
this particular JVC model is a bulky
and heavy flat screen job, while his
sedan was small and elderly to boot
– rather like himself. Nevertheless,
we managed.
He complained that his set had
no picture, just a white line across
the screen. In this case, however, the
white line was across the bottom of
the screen and not the centre, which
was rather unusual.
I started with the vertical output IC
(IC41, LA78041) and the oscilloscope
quickly told me there were no vertical
pulses arriving on pins 1 (VDRB-) and
pin 7 (VDRA+). Brushing my fingers
along the pins of the IC momentarily
produced a small movement in the
vertical deflection, so I was pretty sure
the fault didn’t lie here.
Next, I traced the signal path back
to pins 21 & 22 of the microcontroller/
jungle IC (IC701) but there was still
no signal. This indicated that IC701
itself was the likely culprit. The only
trouble was that this 64-pin device
(TAD9365NI3S0572) costs $123.30
trade plus freight, so before removing
it, I decided to check the DC voltages
on it to confirm my diagnosis.
First, I measured +3.3V on pins 54
& 56 of the microcontroller section,
which is correct, but I found only
+5V on pin 14 of the jungle section,
whereas this should be at +8V. I traced
this rail back to the power supply and
found it came out on pin 1 of IC974,
a composite switchable IC regulator
(BA51W12ST-V5). This should have
read +9V before feeding R957 and
D955 to produce the 8V rail but instead, the voltage here was low.
The regulator IC is in turn supplied
with +9.6V to pin 2 via resistor R969
(2.7W) and this voltage was also low.
However, the other side of the resistor
was at +13V!
A quick check confirmed that resistor R969 had gone high. And as might
be expected, replacing it brought all
the voltages up to normal and restored
the vertical deflection.
Of course, all this was relatively
easy compared to trying to stuff the
telly back into Mr Bronwyn’s car!
Sony TVs
I have seen a lot of Sony TVs over
the years, due to this popular brand
being one of the market leaders. One
thing that has intrigued me is observing how the G3E chassis has evolved
Items Covered This Month
•
•
•
•
44 Silicon Chip
JVC AV29LS TV set (CH
chassis)
Sony KV218SAS TV set (G3E
chassis)
Various computer repairs
Blaupunkt FM310.32 / Grundig
CUC5360 TV set
siliconchip.com.au
into the BG1S, then the BG2S and onto the BG3S series.
At first glance, these chassis all look identical but they
are not interchangeable and vary with the options a
particular model offers – which number about 20 over
the last 10 years.
Most of the faults in these chassis are well-known now
but occasionally a new one is found as the components
age. For example, the horizontal output transistor can fail
due to dry joints on the horizontal output transformer.
However, probably the most common fault is failure of
the sky-blue ceramic capacitor (C820) between the collector emitter of the line output transistor. Just replacing
it fixes the dead symptom, fortunately.
I’ve also found that the flyback transformer can fail,
taking out the horizontal output transistor with it. However, this doesn’t happen all that often.
Recently, I had an interesting case with an older G3E
chassis. The set was a KV2185AS and the 2SD1878CA
line output transistor (Q802) had gone short circuit,
taking the 800mA IC fuse (PS801) with it.
Unfortunately, replacing these parts didn’t fix the set.
At switch-on, it would try to start up, with a rush of
EHT static and the red LED coming on. But that’s as far
as it would go, the set then switching off again within
a few seconds.
A quick check showed that the main +115V rail was
steady and almost everything I measured was perfect.
It took a very long time to finally work out with the
oscilloscope that the drive to the line driver transistor
(Q801) was faulty. This, in turn, was due to a dried-out
capacitor (C513, 1mF) in the line feeding the horizontal
pulses from pin 27 of the jungle IC (IC301, CXA1213BS)
and it had undoubtedly killed the previous horizontal
output transistor as well.
siliconchip.com.au
July 2005 45
Serviceman’s Log – continued
Replacing this capacitor restored
everything to normal.
Computer woes
I have been having fun and games
with computers recently.
First, I needed a new hard drive for
my own computer and was offered a
120Gb Western Digital at a very cheap
price. And having bought it, I couldn’t
wait to get it home and install it.
Now, not being that flush with
money, my computer is a few years
old and is only a Pentium 4 1.8GHz
with IDE drives. I was therefore
very surprised when I got the Caviar
WD1200JD–00HB0 out of its anti-static
bag and found that it was fitted with
connectors I had never seen before.
Well, of course, most of you will
recognise that this model is a serial
ATA (or SATA) drive – as opposed to
parallel ATA (PATA) drives which are
now on the way out. SATA drives have
been steadily growing in popularity
over the last few years and have all
sorts of features to make them faster.
However, this wasn’t of much immediate use to me because my Giga46 Silicon Chip
byte GA8VT800-RZ motherboard has
IDE sockets only and doesn’t support
SATA drives. On the other hand, I
didn’t want to take the drive back as
it really was a bargain, so I decided
to see if there was a way around the
problem.
To cut a long story short, I got onto
the Internet and discovered that you
can buy at least three different types
of EIDE/SATA adaptors or, as the
trade likes to call them, PATA/SATA
converters. One lets older IDE drives
work with modern SATA-socketed
motherboards, one lets you use SATA
drives with IDE motherboards (like
mine) and the third is a SATA controller card (it plugs into a PCI slot on the
motherboard).
Well, naturally I went back to my
supplier, all eager to get the right one
for my motherboard, only to find that
he didn’t have one. What’s more, at
least six other computer stores in my
general area didn’t stock them either.
In fact, some had never heard of such
devices and one even tried to flog me
a new motherboard!
After some further searching, I
eventually found a store that could
help and bought a VScom dual-port
SATA-150 PCI controller card. This
card also supports RAID (Redundant
Array of Independent Discs) mirroring
or striping, although I had no plans to
use this feature.
The installation is quite straightforward – just plug the card into a
spare PCI slot, install the red SATA
data cable and connect power to the
drive. That done, I copied the XP drivers off the supplied CD onto a floppy
disk so that they could subsequently
be installed during the Windows XP
installation.
In the end, it all worked fine except
for one annoyance – when you switch
on the computer, it says it cannot “see”
the hard drive and invites you to press
F1 to continue. Once you press F1, it
then it boots up normally.
This turned out to be a BIOS issue
with this particular computer. When
I later tested SATA card with another
board, it booted straight up, without
any need to press F1.
Because of this, I decided to try
an IDE-to-Serial ATA 150 converter.
Unfortunately, this wasn’t a success
because the machine kept crashing
during boot-up, even in Safe Mode. I
can only assume that this was because
I had already installed Windows XP
using the PCI controller.
My guess is that the only way to use
the adapter is to install XP from scratch
using this set-up.
RAM problems
My next hardware upgrade also
ran into problems. I purchased three
512Mb PC3200 DDR memory SIMMs
but found that no matter what combination I tried, the computer would
only recognise 1Gb of RAM – ie, only
two out of the three SIMMs was being
recognised.
My first attempt to solve this was to
download and install the latest BIOS
update for my motherboard but still
it wouldn’t recognise the third SIMM.
According to the manual, the Gigabyte
motherboard can recognise up to 3Gb
in RAM, so I can only assume that
there is something wrong with my
particular board. It might even be one
of the RAM sockets that’s faulty but I
haven’t tested this theory.
An infected computer
My next computer job involved
dealing with a customer’s computer
siliconchip.com.au
that had been infected with a very
nasty virus. I sometimes think I must
have rocks in my head to take some
of these jobs on but I really do need
the money.
The machine in question was an
old HP Pavilion 722a (P8571A) that
had been hooked up unprotected to
the internet. It was now suffering
from a number of problems – many
programs would no longer run, it was
very slow and it had a lot of porn on
it. And to add insult to injury, it was
throwing up a rude message that was
totally inconsistent with the character
of its owner.
Every time I tried deleting the porn
files, they would be re-written immediately. The machine was running an
old version of Norton AntiVirus but
the subscription had well and truly
expired (by several years) so I couldn’t
run Live Update. What’s more, the virus prevented the program from being
un-installed and so I couldn’t install an
up-to-date version which the customer
had purchased.
Clearly, the first job was to identify
and eliminate the virus. I tried downloading and installing programs like
Stinger, Spybot Search and Destroy,
Ad-Aware and RegClean but more often that not, the programs just would
not run. In the end, I took the hard
drive out and fitted it as a slave on another computer with Norton Antivirus
2005, which was up to date. This soon
identified and killed the virus which
was a worm called W32.Serflog A.
That done, I refitted the drive back
into the old HP and found that full control had been restored. It was then just
a matter of cleaning up any spyware
(using Ad-Aware and Spybot Search
and Destroy), getting rid of a mass of
temporary (.tmp) files and defragging
the drive.
But why do people leave their
computers wide open like this? If you
connect to the internet, you absolutely
must have a firewall and an up-to-date
anti-virus package – no “ifs” or “buts”.
You must also promptly install any
critical security patches for the operating system (preferably automatically if
you have a broadband connection) and
you must regularly sweep the machine
for spyware.
Sock it to me
Another customer brought in his
computer which was running Win-
dows XP Pro. Its problem was that it
could dial-up and connect to the internet successfully but Internet Explorer
could not navigate to any websites, including Windows Updates. Similarly,
Outlook Express was unable to send
or receive any email.
I ran RegClean through it and checked for viruses but nothing turned up. I
then tried upgrading the XP Pro operating system to Service Pack 2 (SP2) but
the problem persisted.
The only clue I had was an error
message that said “a socket could not
be created” and “Host not found”.
This indicated a Windows socket (or
winsock) error, probably due to a corrupted Winsock2 key in the registry.
This can be caused by the installation
of Spyware or by the incorrect installation of networking software.
In Windows 98 and Windows Me,
the cure was to first edit (regedit) the
registry and delete the Winsock2 key
from Hkey_Local_Machine\System\
CurrentControlSet\Services. That
done, the Winsock2 key was rebuilt
by removing the Dial-up Networking
feature from Windows Setup (via Add/
Remove Programs in Control Panel),
then immediately reinstalling it again
Custom-made Lithium Ion, NiCd
and NiMH battery packs
Smart Chargers
www.batterybook.com
(08) 9240 5000
High-capacity 280mAh
rechargeable 9V
2400mAh NiMH AA cells
siliconchip.com.au
High-quality single cell chargers
with independent channels. Charge
any combination of NiCd & NiMH
AA and AAA cells
High-capacity 9Ah
rechargeable D
July 2005 47
Serviceman’s Log – continued
and rebooting the machine.
Windows XP with SP2 handles
things rather differently and includes
tools that let you both test the Winsock2 key and repair it if it is damaged. This is all described in Microsoft
Knowledgebase Article 811259: “How
To Determine And Recover From Winsock2 Corruption”.
This approach is necessary because
the TCP/IP stack is a core component
of the XP operating and cannot be removed. It can, however, be reinstalled
over the top of the original (after deleting the Winsock and Winsock2 keys
from the registry). However, provided
you’re using SP2, there’s an even easier
way to go about this.
First, you can determine whether
the Winsock2 key is corrupted using
the Netdiag tool. Note that this tool
is not installed with XP by default.
However, it’s quite easy to install it
(and other “Support Tools”) from the
Windows XP Setup CD, as described
in Article 811259.
Alternatively, if you don’t have
the setup CD handy, you can run
Msinfo32. Again, the details are set
out in the Microsoft article.
If the Winsock2 key is corrupted
and you have SP2 installed, it can be
repaired using the netsh command –
you just type netsh winsock reset at the
command prompt and press Enter. You
then reboot the computer, after which
48 Silicon Chip
you can also use the netsh command
to rebuild the Winsock key (see Article
811259 for details).
Note, however, that some anti-virus,
firewall or proxy clients may no longer
work properly after you run the netsh
winsock reset command. According
to Microsoft, it’s simply a matter of
reinstalling any affected programs to
fix this. You have been warned – don’t
go playing with the netsh command
unless you really do have Winsock2
problems and know what you are
doing.
If all else fails, you can download a
utility called WinSockXPFix.exe (just
Google for it). This fixed the Winsock
problems on this particular computer
and it was able to once again browse
the internet and send and receive
email. In this case, the Winsock “catalog” must have been corrupted before
SP2 was installed, so the self-healing
netsh command had no effect.
Blaupunkt feedback
I had an interesting response from
a reader regarding the story about the
Blaupunkt TV in the June issue of
SILICON CHIP. As you may recall, the
problem was intermittent “no sound”
on a Blaupunkt FM310.32 (Grundig
CUC5360 chassis).
This reader, another TV technician,
has an almost identical problem with
a set he has at home – no sound after
switch on from the mains. He says that,
according to Blaupunkt in Melbourne,
the fault is related to two microprocessor resets. His solution (until he finds
time to fix the problem) was to simply
leave the set permanently switched on
and switch off to standby only with
the remote control.
He also tells me that he recently
serviced the Grundig equivalent
that had the same fault. Like me, he
replaced the TDA6610 in the stereo
decoder and it instantly “cured” the
fault. However, the set then came
back two months later with the same
problem.
According to the reader, the problem
is connected with an I2C-borne mute
message, necessary because the sound
amplifier chip is powered directly
from the chopper power supply. This
presumably is to prevent “noise” appearing in the audio immediately after
switch-on from the mains – ie, after the
microcontroller is up and running but
before the tuner and sound detection
circuits have locked in
Anyway, since writing the earlier
story, my own customer had a sudden change of heart and decided to
go with my modest quote. However,
before returning the repaired set to
him, I decided to take a few extra
precautions.
The 2005 EFIL book suggests that
this symptom can be caused by leakage due to dirt on the main PC board
near the microprocessor. As a result,
I removed, cleaned and mounted this
IC and its companion EEPROM in IC
sockets. I also cleaned the remote momentary switch and the PC board area
around the power switch assembly.
It could well be that this is the real
solution to the intermittent no-sound
problem. Certainly, there have been
no reports of the fault re-occurring but
it’s still early days yet. Who knows?
It’s also interesting to note that,
acting on this advice, my colleague
solved his problem with the Grundig
(although he also replaced the power
switch).
I’ve now encountered a few Grundigdesigned sets where high-resistance
leakage problems have caused microprocessor problems and created weird
symptoms. Note, however, that cleaning
the board with methylated spirits is
not a good idea as this is also slightly
conductive. Pure alcohol and/or other
PC-board cleaning solvents are much
SC
better.
siliconchip.com.au
[ July 2005 ]
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Unfortunately, a good ribbon tweeter can cost
between $100 and $500 - to thousands for some
custom German ones. Even high-end enclosure
manufacturers all opt for dome tweeters simply
because "ribbons" add too much to system cost.
Jaycar have made a massive stock purchase from a
major US organ manufacturer who makes both pipe
and electronic organs. They are an 80+ year old
company and we cannot tell you who they are! They
are restructuring their production of their high-end
organs and their stock of ribbon tweeters has been
sold to us far, far below the 10,000+ factory gate
price! Their massive loss is your gain.
The product. The tweeter is made in Japan by the
venerable manufacturer, Foster. The device itself has
multiple ribbon "diaphragm" components in samephase configuration. There are two basic types of
ribbon tweeters, static or dynamic type. This product
is the dynamic type which has conventional
impedance 8Ω and is more efficient. Each speaker is
supplied with a datasheet and securely packed.
Even if you do not have any specific need for a ribbon
tweeter at the moment, we strongly urge you to
consider purchasing it for future use. At the price we
are offering, we expect OEM (manufacturer) interest.
As it is a distress stock buy, quantities are limited.
On many occasions in the past we have warned
customers of this and the slow ones miss out.
Finally, we think that technically, two tweeters per
enclosure would be the way to go. They should not be
overdriven. Note also the fairly high crossover
frequency. In keeping with this suggestion, we have a
special price for a set of 4 pieces.
Type:
Regular-phase 100mm ribbon tweeter
Power:
20 Watts RMS (cont), 50W max.
SPL:
92dB/Watt.
Freq Resp: 6K-40KHz +/-2dB (SUBLIME!).
Impedance: 8Ω.
Crossover Frequency: 6,400Hz (12dB / Octave).
Normally a speaker of this quality would sell for
over $100. Because the factory’s loss is your gain we
are offering this product for only $39.95 each, or a
set of 4 for only $136 – only $34 each! You will KILL
yourself if you miss out and you will if you delay.
Cat. CT-2023
$
.95EA
39
or buy as a set
of 4 for $136.00
That”s only $34 each!
STOP PRESS STOP PRESS STOP PRESS STOP PRESS STOP PRESS
1GB Portable Movie / MP3 Player
with Voice Recorder / FM Radio
and Picture Viewer
Check this out!
This blows conventional MP3 players and
solid state flash disks out of the water!
At first glance, you might think that it is
just an MP3 player with an LCD screen,
but that is just the tip of the iceberg. This
unit is feature packed, just check out the line-up!
•MP3 player of course, the most obvious feature, the 1GB capacity allows
storage of a few hundred songs!
•JPEG picture viewer - you can run slideshows for you and your friends - great in this digital age.
•Built-in FM radio - so you can catch up on the news, or listen to the latest chart-topping hits.
•Voice recorder - so you can take voice notes or record conversations (with permission of course).
•MPEG-4 player - so you can watch movie files on the go!
Cat. GE-4006
It measures just 75 x 37 x 14mm, and weighs less than 40g! AVAILABLE MID JULY $
.00
The 1.3" high resolution TFT LCD screen provides crystal clear
pictures, and is the perfect way to keep yourself entertained. See website for full details.
399
STOP PRESS STOP PRESS STOP PRESS STOP PRESS STOP PRESS
Lead-Acid Battery Zapper Kit
AA 2400mAh Ni-MH
Extend the working life of your lead-acid battery!
Rechargeable Batteries
Massive capacity! For the most
demanding portable devices, you
need the best batteries. Our new
2400mAh provide the best
in portable AA power.
Nipple Cap
Solder Tag
5
6
Cat. SB-1727
$ .95
4 Pack Ni-MH Rechargeable Batteries
Buy in packs and save!
These rechargeable batteries are supplied in
four-packs for convenience, and
are cheaper than buying them
Cat. SB-1739
individually!
AAA 900mAh $ .95Pkt 4
39
12
AA 2000mAh
AA 2300mAh
RFID Access Control System
Cat. SB-1737
$
.95
Pkt 4
15
Cat. SB-1735
$
.95
Pkt 4
19
4 Input IP Sensor Modules
Security over the Internet!
This 4 input sensor can be
given an IP address so you
can monitor
the state of
the inputs
from
anywhere in the
world with an internet
browser. It can be used for PIRs, alarm sensors,
lights, and more. Password protection, polarity
Cat. LA-9040
protection, and more included.
$
.00
See Cat page 327 for full details.
129
Central ADSL Line Filter
Simple brilliance!
This central line filter allows
multiple phone connections to
eliminate huge numbers of
individual filters sometimes
required when using ADSL services.
Surge and overload current protection.
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
Cat. SB-1728
$ .50
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
Ref: SC July 2005.
This simple circuit
is designed to
produce bursts
of high-energy
pulses to help
reverse the
damaging effects of sulphation in
"wet" lead-acid batteries. This is
particularly useful when battery has
been sitting for a period of time without use. Its
effects are dependant on the battery’s condition and
type, but the results can be quite good indeed.
Kit supplied with case, silk
Cat. KC-5414
screened lid, leads, inductors
$
.95
and all electronic components.
No contact required! Control entry to a
doorway, or an entire building. The unit can be used
in a network of locks administered by a central
location, or just to control access through a front
door. It is 12V powered, so you can use it
in remote locations, and
the reader unit is splash
proof. 5 RFID cards
included.
•N.O. and Cat. LA-5120
N.C. relay $
.00
contacts.
199
Colour Changing Digital Alarm Clock
Looks great!
Get rid of your boring alarm
clock and grab one of these!
The colour changes every hour
and it has a large LCD for easy
viewing. Displays time, alarm
time, as well as calendar
information. Mains
Cat. XC-0254
plugpack supplied.
$
.95
24
Cat. YT-6096
$
.95
28
1
Frequency Selectable RF Modulator
Excellent versatility!
Traditionally RF modulators
could only be used on channels
0 or 1. This is fine for many
applications, but if you already have a
VCR or other device tuned on those channels, it is a
problem. This unit allows you to select Cat. LM-3878
which channel to tune into.
$
.95
Mains plugpack included.
49
USB 2.0 Surround Sound
Simulator for Headphones
Add a new dimension to
your gaming!
This tiny device takes your
regular stereo signals and
transforms it into simulated
surround sound. It makes your
games, CDs, and DVDs come to life. Also has a
graphic equaliser and room simulation. Cat. XC-4882
$
.95
Measures 30(W) x 80(L) x 20(T)mm.
29
60 Disc CD Drawer
CD storage made easy!
This handy drawer holds up
to 60 CDs in a smooth sliding
drawer to make finding your
selection much easier. It is translucent blue and
measures 290(L) x 140(W) Cat. AR-1495
SAVE
$
.95
x 150(H)mm. Ltd qty.
$5
Was $19.95
14
7" Roof Mount Widescreen
TFT LCD Monitor
Keep your passengers
entertained! This fold down
roof-mount monitor is great for
watching DVDs or TV (with the
appropriate receivers) on long trips.
It can also serve as a fold-down
monitor up front for use with
SAVE
a reversing camera. High
$120
resolution, remote
control included. Ltd qty. Was $419.00
Cat. QM-3751
$
.00
299
Great value! Even with very affordable prices,
these amps don’t offer any less than major
brand models available on the market. There is
an amp to suit every application, just take a look.
See our website for all the great features.
•2 x 80WRMS <at> 4 ohms.
•2 x 100WRMS <at> 2 ohms. AA-0420
•1 x 200WRMS <at> 4 ohms. $169.95
4 x 50WRMS
•4 x 50WRMS <at> 4 ohms.
•4 x 80WRMS <at> 2 ohms.
•2 x 160WRMS <at> 4 ohms.
AA-0422
199.95
$
2 x 150WRMS
•2 x 150WRMS <at> 4 ohms.
•2 x 255WRMS <at> 2 ohms.
•1 x 500WRMS <at> 4 ohms.
AA-0424
249
$
.95
Watch cable TV all over the house!
Send a signal from a DVD player, set-top box etc., to
another room, without the use of any cables! You can
use as many receivers as you like, without degrading
signal quality. Each unit comes supplied with stereo
audio and video transmitter and receiver, mains
plugpacks & RCA cables. Transmission range is up to
100m, but depends on the type of construction
materials used.
Was $99
Cat. AR-1832
SAVE
$
.95
$29.05
69
Extra receiver to suit Cat. AR-1833
.95
Cat. AR-1833 Was $69 $
49
2.4 GHz Wireless A/V Sender
with Remote Control Extender
With the addition of an IR remote
control repeater you can change the
channel of the source device etc from
Cat. AR-1830
the other room.
$
.95
Was $139
Extra receiver to suit
Cat. AR-1831
Cat. AR-1831
$
.95
Was $89
89
SAVE
$49.05
69
SAVE
$19.05
1 Farad 20V Capacitor
with Voltage Display
Car audio enthusiasts please
note!
This massive capacitor will help
stabilise the voltage levels in a high
power stereo installation. A voltage
display keeps you informed of
voltage levels, and mounting
hardware is included.
Cat. RU-6750
$
.95
Carbon Fibre Subwoofers
New range!
Featuring high quality Carbon Fibre cones
and dual voice coils, these new subwoofers
offer great performance and durability.
•See website for full details.
10" Subwoofer
•250WRMS power handling.
•Dual 4-ohm voice coils.
CS-2278
•87.1dB sensitivity.
$
.95
179
12" Subwoofer
•300WRMS power handling.
•Dual 4-ohm voice coils. CS-2279
$
•88.2dB sensitivity.
219.00
This new range of budget coaxial car
speakers offer great sound and value for money.
They have low-profile magnets for versatile mounting,
and spoke grill covers for show.
4" 2 Way
•25WRMS power handling.
•88dB sensitivity. CS-2330
5" 2 Way
•4 x 130WRMS <at> 4 ohms.
•4 x 190WRMS <at> 2 ohms.
•2 x 380WRMS <at> 4 ohms.
AA-0426
299.95
24.95
29.95
$
6" 2 Way
•35WRMS power handling.
•89dB sensitivity. CS-2334
•1 x 400WRMS <at> 4 ohms.
•1 x 700WRMS <at> 2 ohms.
•1 x 820WRMS <at> 1 ohm.
39.95
$
6" x 9" 5 Way
AA-0428
399.00
$
2
•30WRMS power handling.
•88dB sensitivity. CS-2332
$
800WRMS Class D
LCD Virtual Goggles
Take the cinema screen with
you! Enjoy private viewing of
your TV/DVD/VCR or games
console with these lightweight
goggles. So portable they can
be used in a car to enjoy DVD
player entertainment, or
connect it to a video games console such as
PLAYSTATION, XBOX, etc. Supplied with
Cat. QM-3790
cables and power adaptor. 800 x 225
$
.00
(180,000) pixel resolution.
399
FM Stereo Transmitter
with LCD
Full FM selection!
Play your iPod/CD/MP3
player through your car
stereo. Select any frequency
in the FM band. Requires 2
x AAA batteries. Cat. AR-3115
$
.95
59
Noise Cancelling Headphones
Sleep soundly! They are designed for use in
noisy environments such as an aircraft or cars
reducing background noise by as
much as 15dB. Powered by two
AAA batteries (included), they
come with a 1.8m lead
terminated with a 3.5mm
stereo plug.
Cat. AA-2054
$
.95
49
Car Super Tweeter Bargain
Fantastic value!
They have a frequency
response of 6 to 20kHz
and 40WRMS power
handling.
Cat. CS-2218
Was $5
$ .00 ea
•45WRMS power handling.
•90dB sensitivity. CS-2336
49
$
.95
SAVE
$1 ea
4
6.5" Kevlar Split Speakers
Fantastic sound!
A new design of
our previous
Kevlar split
speakers, they sound
great. They have a great
sounding 25mm soft dome
tweeter, as well as separate
crossovers for optimum
performance.
Cat. CS-2329
$
.95
pr
149
Kevlar Cone Coaxial
Speakers
Coaxial Speakers
$
4 x 100WRMS
SAVE
$19.05
99
NEW CAR AMPLIFIER RANGE
2 x 80WRMS
2.4GHz Wireless Audio Video Sender
Fantastic quality!
This new range of coaxial speakers offer
high performance and great looks. They
retain the large super tweeter that made last year’s
range great, but the new Kevlar cones take them into
a realm of their own. Check out our catalogue page
229 for full details.
4" Kevlar 2 Way
Cat.
•40WRMS power. CS-2320
•86.5dB sensitivity. $99.95
5" Kevlar 2 Way
Cat.
•50WRMS power. CS-2322
$
•89.5dB sensitivity. 109.95
6.5" Kevlar 2 Way
Cat.
•75WRMS power. CS-2324
•91.3dB sensitivity. $119.95
6" x 9" 2 Way
Cat.
•80WRMS power. CS-2328
$
.95
139
•93.5dB sensitivity.
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
4 Channel Multiplexing DVR with
120GB HDD and Ethernet
8 Port Digital Surveillance Capture Card
The new age is here!
Now you can have a
regular DVR in use for
surveillance around the
home or office, while having the ability to view
streaming video from anywhere in the world via an
internet connection. You can get peace of mind on
holidays or check up on your kids.
•Digital recording with wavelet compression.
•10/100 Base-T Ethernet connection.
Cat. QV-3072
$
.00
•Full control from remote location
•720 x 576 pixels (PAL)
•Video loss detection •See website for specs.
999
Wireless Doorbell with 32 Melodies
Select your style! Choose from
one of 32 different melodies
with the touch of a button. The
weatherproof wireless
transmitter is easily mounted,
and the receiver is powered by
3 x AA batteries, so no wiring is
required.
Cat. LA-5018
$
.95
16
Downlight Style Colour CCD Camera
Unique mounting!
Using a 1/3" Sharp CCD
sensor to provide high quality 480TV
line resolution images, the Halogen
downlight style mount fits in with your
décor, as well as allowing Cat. QC-3503
$
.95
0 - 90° pivoting. See
website for details.
249
Colour CMOS Pinhole Camera with Audio
Tiny size! Measuring just 20mm2
x 19mm, this camera can be placed
just about anywhere you can get the
cable to. It can be powered from
6 - 12VDC, and operates Cat. QC-3491
$
.95
in low-light conditions
down to 2.0 Lux.
69
SAVE
$5
SAVE
$10
Shed / Garage / Boat Alarm
Very affordable!
The garage or shed can often be
neglected when it comes to security,
but often there is valuable machinery
and tools inside. This unit consists of a
reed switch for the main door,
and a PIR for general
protection. Keyfob arm / disarm.
Includes mains plugpack, 10m
cable, and a battery backup option.
Cat. LA-5400
$
.95
49
USB Pan / Tilt PC Camera with
Remote Access
This is one of the most useful PC based cameras
we have seen!
It has full functionality as a pan/tilt camera, with
motion controlled via the serial port! You can log onto
a preset IP address, and actually take control of the
pan/tilt functions. Software and drivers are
supplied on CD-ROM, and it is compatible
with Windows 98,SE,ME,2000, and XP.
•640 x 480 pixels resolution.
•Colour CMOS sensor.
•111(L) x 97(W) x 86(H)mm
approx.
Cat. QC-3395
Was $399
SAVE
$
.00
$100
2.4GHz 4 Channel Wireless Receiver
with Remote Control
High quality picture!
A Sharp 1/4" CCD
sensor provides clear
420TV line resolution
picture, and can transmit it up to
100m to the receiver (use QC-3588).
A mains plugpack is included, and there are two
channels available:
Both Types
$
EA
Channel 1 Cat. QC-3560
Channel 2 Cat. QC-3561
229
Night vision!
As well as 420TV line resolution,
this camera has 27 integrated
infrared LEDs to see in the dark. It is
weatherproof, great for mounting
under eaves, and a mains plugpack is
included. QC-3588 receiver required.
Two channels available:
Both Types
Channel 3 Cat. QC-3564 $
EA
Channel 4 Cat. QC-3565
SAVE
$5
SAVE
$10
The ultimate in portability!
This camera features an internal
Lithium-Ion rechargeable battery
that can operate the camera for
up to 5hrs per charge. Channel
selectable to use with Cat. QC-3595
.95
QC-3588 receiver, see $
website for details.
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
199
299
299
2.4GHz Wireless Colour CCD
Rechargeable Camera with Audio
Four Door Kit
29
Cat. QC-3377
$
.00
269
Two Door Kit
Includes 1 master, 3 slaves, Cat. LR-8812
.95
control relay, hardware, and $
wiring. Was $39.95
Low cost!
At the heart of
many
surveillance
systems is a
multi-channel
processor filtering all the cameras
into one channel for monitoring or recording. These
units are great value, with all the features of higher
priced units including zoom, video freeze, motion
detection, and more.
Cat. QC-3375
.00
Black and White Version $
2.4GHz Weather Resistant Wireless
Colour CCD Camera with IR LEDs
A touch of luxury! Take the hassle out
of locking and unlocking doors when
parking, or to keep your kids
safer in the back seat. These
kits are durable, and easy to
install. Two and four door lock kits available:
24
Four Channel Quad Video Processors
2.4GHz Wireless Colour
CCD Pinhole Camera
Power Door Locking Kits for Cars
Includes 1 master, 1 slave, Cat. LR-8810
.95
control relay, hardware, and $
wiring. Was $29.95
149
3 Zone Wireless Home Alarm Kit
Ideal for tenants!
The system is supplied with a control panel equipped
with keypad, and a built-in siren. It also comes with a
wireless PIR, reed switch, and panic Cat. LA-5125
$
.00
button which operate
within a 50m range. There
are also provisions for
hard-wired
expansion if
desired.
See our
catalogue
page 326 for details.
GREAT NEW 2.4GHZ WIRELESS SURVEILLANCE EQUIPMENT
Remote Control for Power Door Locking
Keyless entry!
Enjoy the luxury of keyless
entry no matter how flash
your car is. Simply wire
this unit up to your central
door locking (factory or one of
our kits), and you can wirelessly
activate the actuators.
Cat. LR-8831
Ltd qty. Was $79.95
$
.95
Quick and simple! Consisting of a 5" B&W
surveillance monitor, two cameras, and two dummy
cameras, you can keep an eye on your premises.
The real cameras simply plug
in with their 10m lead,
and the dummy
cameras look
identical. Great for
small shops.
Cat. QC-3446
$
.00
Colour Version
6 LED Alarm / Night Light with PIR
19
399
5" B&W Surveillance System
149
49
A great security aid!
This device houses a PIR
to switch on 6 LEDs for
1min when movement is
detected. Can also be set to
permanently on. Requires 4 Cat. LA-5162
x AA batteries or mains
$
.95
plugpack. Was $24.95
50 fps capture!
Using the power of
two separate cards, it
can deliver high quality
streaming video through your
PC, and you can view it from a local or
remote location. It records up to a global rate of 50
frames per second so you won’t miss any of the
action from slow recording rates. It also has an audio
input and requires two PCI slots in your Cat. QV-3059
$
.00
PC. See website for details.
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
169
Audio and video!
Receiving up to four 2.4GHz
cameras (any of the cameras
shown left), you can switch
between cameras manually,
or set it to automatic.
Composite video output
allows display or recording
on any device. A mains plugpack and
RCA cables are also supplied.
Cat. QC-3593
$
.95
129
2.4GHz 4 Channel Wireless USB Receiver
Surveillance on your computer!
This tiny four channel receiver takes the pain
out of surveillance.
Just plug it into your
PCs USB port and
you’re set. You can view
cameras on the PC,
with a composite option for
a TV or monitor too.
There is a host of
on-board functions
such as email alert on
motion detection, and a whole lot more.
Cat. QC-3597
See page 313 of our 2005 catalogue for $
.95
more info.
249
2.4GHz Wireless Colour LCD Receiver
Roam while monitoring!
Now you can take your
surveillance monitor with you
to watch the kids, or keep a lookout for
potential thieves. It has a 65cm LCD
and a speaker for audio.
Cat. QC-3596
See 2005 catalogue page
.00
312 for compatible cameras. $
299
3
12V Can Cooler
Roll-Up Electronic Piano
Cold drinks on long trips!
This great device plugs into
your car’s cigarette lighter
socket and holds a standard
size 375mL can. It is a great
way to keep your
drinks cold in summer, Cat. GH-1370
$
.95
and on long trips.
For the travelling maestro!
Just roll it out and you are ready to play. It has
over 100 instrumental sounds, and its built-in
amplifier means you can entertain a small
crowd. It has 49 keys covering 4 octaves and
even an inbuilt recorder.
•710(W) x 174(D) x 5(H)mm.
29
Cat. GH-1610
99.95
$
Eye Mask with Massage/
Air Pressure/Heater
Stress relief!
Alleviate eye fatigue caused
by extensive use of
computers, long periods of
driving, studying and reading.
It can provide a massage,
gentle air pressure, and warm
compression. See website for
full details.
Pedometer with 128MB MP3 Player
Cat. GG-2262
99
$
.95
Intelligent Automatic Rubbish Bin
Hands full? No worries!
Just wave your hand, foot, or
whatever you can, in front of the
intelligent rubbish bin and the lid
will open automatically! It will
also close back up again, so you
never need to touch it. Cat. GG-2315
$
.95
23L capacity.
39
New “Nite Ize”
Maglite™/Torch Accessories
Nite Ize accessories suit AA Maglites™
and small torches (not included).
Bite Light Adaptor
Simple but effective!
This attachment fits over the end of
your torch with a patented mouth
piece to allow you to safely bite down
on it to hold the torch in place. It also
includes a neck lanyard.
Time flies when you're exercising!
This pedometer has a
built-in MP3 player
which stores up
to two hours of music.
More than enough for
most fitness programs! Pedometer
functions include calorie counting, distance monitor,
as well as a clock. Supplied with USB
Cat. GE-4012
$
.95
cables and earphones.
•68(L) x 39(W) x 22.5(H)mm
119
Pedometer with FM Radio
and Calorie Counter
7.95
Cat. XC-0267
19.95
$
AntWorks – Ant Habitat
Watch them dig tunnels!
Capture ants and put them
in the AntWorks enclosure. They
will dig tunnels that you can see!
They are easy to care for, not
requiring any food or water. Supplied with
magnifying glass, ant catching/tunnel starter tool,
Cat. GH-1230
instructions and facts.
$
.95
•165(L) x 140(W) x 35(D)mm.
39
Electronic Body Fat Scales
Belt Pouch
Not your average belt pouch!
Not only can you store your torch
on your belt, but with real world use
in mind it has a small pouch to carry
two spare AA or AAA batteries. Made
from strong Nylon.
Cat. ST-3408
6.95
$
7" Fibre Optic Adaptor
Thin and flexible!
Light only travels in straight lines, but you can make
it bend with this Fibre Optic adaptor. A small
attachment fits right over the head of your torch to
give you a flexible light source for inspecting in tight
places. 3mm diameter cable.
Cat. ST-3410
14
$
.95
4
Are you overweight?
These scales calculate your
body fat content using the body
mass index. They also give you
your weight, and can store up
to 6 profiles for different
people in the family. Cat. QM-7249
Was $89.95
$
.95
59
“Norbert” Robotic Vacuum
3W Torch
The torch head rotates to
change from narrow or
wide angle beam
concentration.
Requires 3 x AA batteries.
Was $89.95
5W Torch
Cat. ST-3333
39.95
$
SAVE
$30
Cat. ST-3334
59.95
$
SAVE
$30
Finished in heavy duty
aluminium, it produces
blinding white light.
Requires 6 x AA batteries.
Was $129.95
Cat. ST-3338
99.95
$
Very versatile! Not only does this dynamo powered
device have an AM/FM radio and
incandescent lamp, there is
a host of other functions.
There is a 3, 6, 9, and 12VDC
output socket to provide
emergency power, and a
plugpack can also be used to
charge the internal battery. It also
has two-way charging; wind the
Cat. ST-3370
$
.95
handle to charge your car battery, or
let you car battery charge it!
59
Mini LED Torches
Great on a keyring!
Light the way with these
tiny LED torches. They
are lightweight and will fit on your keyring.
•45(D) x 10(W) x 10(H)mm 3 colours available.
Blue Cat ST-3380 White Cat ST-3382 All Types EA
$ .95
Red Cat ST-3384
Under Cabinet Alarm Clock
Great in the workshop!
This alarm clock can bolt
under an overhead cabinet,
SAVE
$30
or simply sit on a desk. It
includes an AM/FM radio so you
can wake up to the morning news or
Cleaner
IMPROVED a simple buzzer. Mains powered.
Sit back and relax while your
MODEL
robot cleans the house!
It automatically moves
around obstacles, and an
intelligent optical sensor
assists in avoiding walls
& obstructions. Works
Cat. GH-1395
best to supplement your
$
.00
manual cleaner, not replace it.
Spare Dust Filters Pk 2 Cat. GH-1396 $29.95
Mop Papers Pk 100 Cat. GH-1397 $24.95
249
Alcohol Breath Tester with Readout
Better efficiency! Upgrade the bulb in your
AA Maglite™ to this unit that has 3
LEDs. Because LEDs are so
efficient, you get four times longer
battery life, and LEDs don’t blow!
This is the single
Cat. ST-3400
best upgrade to a
$
.75
torch you can make!
Measure your BAC!
Displays blood alcohol concentration
between 0.00% & 0.05%.
It provides a good result,
but should not be relied
upon to produce precise
results.
Cat. QM-7292
$
.95
Was $59.95
49
Finished in sleek black
aluminium, it is
lightweight and robust.
Requires 3 x AA batteries.
Was $59.95
SAVE
$20
3
LED Upgrade Kit for Maglites
14
1W Torch
5 in 1 Dynamo Power Bank
with Radio and Lamp
Keep track of your calories!
You can input the food you
have eaten, and it will count
down how far to go until you
have walked it off. Many other
functions, see our website.
Cat. ST-3405
$
LUXEON HAND TORCHES SLASHED!
Use genuine Luxeon LEDs!
These are some of the brightest compact LED
torches you are going to find. LEDs are very efficient,
and are far less fragile than filament globes. If you
need a strong, reliable torch, then you can't go past a
Luxeon LED torch.
SAVE
$10
Cat. XC-0248
24.95
$
Proximity Security Beeper
Never lose valuables again!
The Proximeter transmitter
attaches to your valuables,
and you keep the receiver in
your pocket. If you walk away
from the transmitter, it will beep,
reminding you to grab your
possessions.
Wireless Key Finder
Cat. GG-2375
29.95
$
Never lose keys again! Simply attach your
keys to one of the receivers. Then
when you press the corresponding
button, it will beep so you can
find it. There are four
receivers supplied, each
with their own button on
Cat. XC-0352
the keyfob style transmitter.
$
.95
49
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
Rechargeable 40 Channel
UHF Transceiver
40 Channel UHF CB Band Transceiver
Great range, great
features!
Since the outstanding
success of our
popular DC-1010
transceiver, it only
SAVE
seemed logical to
$30
refine the design,
adding a few enhancements along the way. It is a lot
more compact, measuring just 53(W) x 95(H) x
32(D)mm. It uses a small rechargeable battery pack,
and is supplied with a dual charging cradle. You can
still of course use AAA batteries as a backup. Four
step scrambling is also provided for private
communications, making this transceiver just plain
fantastic! Supplied with one
Buy a
transceiver and a charging
DC-1025 with
cradle. Was $89.95
an extra transceiver
Cat. DC-1025
(DC-1028) for just
$
.95
$99.90! Save $60!
59
Cat. DC-1010
39.00
$
or 2 for
$69.90
Deluxe Map Distance Calculator
New model! This new Map Distance
Calculator can operate in metric or
imperial units, as well as nautical
miles for marine or aviation
applications. Roll it forward to
add distance, or backward to
subtract. It has a backlit
display and small torch
Cat. XC-0377
for night use.
$
.95
Measures 155(W) x 35(H) x 23(D)mm.
39
19
Cat. GH-1044
19.95
$
The Amazing Flygun!
Keep the kids entertained!
The Amazing Flygun is a safe,
fun, and effective method of
killing flies and mosquitoes. Launch
the spring powered swatter at your
target! It is safe, fun and really does
work!
Cat. YS-5545
KILLS
$ .95
COCKROACHES
TOO!
7
Farting Salt n Pepper Shakers
A great gag for all occasions.
They make a fart sound when
tipped upside down. Great for
parties!
Cat. GH-1080
19.95
24.95
Talking Digital Watch with Alarm
Novelty Keychain with Orgasm Sounds
Don’t be late!
This watch announces the time at the
touch of a button. It is great for young
children to help read the time, or the
vision impaired. It has various alarm
sounds to get you out of bed
including a rooster crow. Cat. XC-0258
Everyone will want what
you're having!
Keep this little beauty in your
pocket or purse. It lets out
orgasmic sounds at the
press of a button. Cat. GT-3325
$ .95
What a laugh!
9
19.95
$
Slimline 3 LED Book Light
Novelty Boss Voodoo Doll
Compact and portable!
While providing adequate light for
reading, it is soft enough to not
disturb your sleeping partner. It
measures just 40(W) x 105(L) x
10(D)mm, and
Cat. ST-3980
requires two
$ .95
CR2450 batteries.
Show your boss what you really
think! Twist his arms, break his legs,
and he will be begging for you to
come back to work with a pay rise.
Great fun for every
Cat. GT-3104
one.
$
.95
24
Animated Pen Stand
Bookmark Electronic Dictionary
Hand Held
Farting Keyring
Every practical joker should
have one!
Cat. GH-1082
$ .95
Makes a great
farting sound
when the button is pressed.
9
Remote Controlled
Secret Farter
So slimline it’s a bookmark!
Holding a vocabulary of over 50,000
words, this dictionary’s vocabulary is
about five times better than the
average human. The flexible keypad
fits neatly between pages, and it
even has calculator Cat. XC-0185
and alarm functions.
$
.95
Your Grandmother won't
like it, but you will!
It lets out a series of
amusing sounds and lifts
its head when you
insert a pen into the
rear-facing rectal
receptacle.
29
More compact!
This mini version of our
regular toy safes has keypad
entry and great sound effects.
It measures 132(L) x 105(H) x
122(D)mm, and
A great way
has a coin slot
to save pocket
in the top.
money!
Cat. GH-1088
19
.95
Electronic Toy Safes
12V Camping Shower
A touch of luxury!
Wash away the cares of the day - no
matter how far from civilisation you
are! The camping shower allows you
to take a shower wherever you are.
Powered by your
Cat. YS-2800
$
.95
vehicle’s 12V battery.
19
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
ted!
Cat. GT-3110
19.95
$
Colour Master Colour Changing
LED Lighting Kits
Cat. GH-1312
19.95
$
Ideal protection
against… siblings!
Features an illuminated
keypad and
programmable
combination, with voice
or sound effects.
Both Types (ea)
Pink Cat. GH-1310. Blue Cat. GH-1311
$
.95
•185(H) x 135(W) x 125(D)mm.
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
IOUS!
HILAR
R-Ra
Mini Electric Toy Safe
The new millennium’s
whoopee cushion!
Activated by a remote
control, it has three
realistic fart sounds.
199.00
$
and lots more!
$
9
$
Fantastic price!
This easy to use camera
A digital video
fits in the palm of your
camera for
hand!
under $200!
The recorded video can
be transferred to a computer for
editing, or simply viewed directly on
any TV with AV inputs.
Supplied with camera bag,
cables and software.
•3.1 mega pixel software
resolution for stills.
•1.5" colour LCD screen.
•5 layer glass
lens.
•32MB internal
SAVE
memory
$50
•SD/MMC expansion slot
•4x digital zoom
Cat. QC-3230
Was $249
•Internal microphone
Your heart will go shala-la-la-la!
Sing along with these sound
activated, animated characters
enjoying a vigorous bathtub romp.
Sure to put a smile on everyone’s
face.
Cat. GH-1090
How far is the next turn off?
Automatically convert a map’s scale
distance to real distance by rolling the
small wheel along the desired route. It
works with any map scale Cat. XC-0375
$
.95
and displays in kilometres
or miles.
Relax at your computer!
The USB powered device
contains lavender scented wax
that fills your workspace
with a calming fragrance
that is said to soothe
the mind and heal the
body. Works with your
own fragrances too!
Mini Digital Video Camera
Musical Bathtub Novelty
Digital Map Distance Calculator
USB Aromatherapy Diffuser
$
Cheap short distance communication!
They operate up to 5km in an open field, or 1km in
the city. Lots of accessories available, see
our website for details.
19
Fun and funky!
Mount them in
laminate or
wooden floors, walls, or even ceilings for great mood
lighting. They can be changed from red, blue, or
green, auto changing or static. Supplied with
controller and mains plugpack. Lights measure 80(Dia)
x 6(H)*mm. *6mm protruding from mounting
Two packs available:
Four Light Pack
Includes 4 x round LED fittings,
12.5m of cable, and controller.
Eight Light Pack
Includes 8 x round LED fitting,
22.5m of cable, and controller.
Cat. ST-3880
79.95
$
Cat. ST-3882
139.95
$
5
Servos Have Landed At Jaycar!
12VDC Reversible Gearhead Motors
Check out page 141 of your 2005 catalogue, or our website for all the details.
Mini 4.8V – 6V Servo
Perfect for R/C or robotics applications where space
is at a premium.
•Torque:
3.4kg/cm <at> 4.8V. Cat. YM-2760
4.2kg/cm <at> 6V.
$
.95
•Weight:
26g.
•Dimensions:
35(L) x 16.9(W) x 32(H)mm.
24
Heavy Duty 4.8V – 6V Servo
Features include ball bearing, high torque, and quick
transit time.
•Torque:
10kg/cm <at> 4.8V. Cat. YM-2766
13kg/cm <at> 6V.
$
.95
•Weight:
110g.
•Dimensions:
54.4(L) x 26.5(W) x 51.5(H)mm.
39
Standard 4.8V – 6V High Torque Power Servo
Extra high torque for demanding applications.
•Torque:
6.2kg/cm <at> 4.8V. Cat. YM-2762
8kg/cm <at> 6V.
$
.95
•Weight:
46g.
•Dimensions:
39.5(L) x 20(W) x 39.6(H)mm.
29
Standard size servo for 1/10th scale R/C care and
robotics. High torque.
•Torque:
5kg/cm <at> 4.8V. Cat. YM-2764
$
.95
6.2kg/cm <at> 6V.
•Weight:
46g.
•Dimensions:
39.5(L) x 20(W) x 39.6(H)mm.
29
Sturdy solid steel sleeve.
Hex drive set screws for
fastening.
Cat. YG-2790
$ .50
9
6
Aluminium Hub with
Set Screws
Coupling from the gear to a shaft.
Accepts a 6.35mm (1/4") shaft and
Cat. YG-2784
suits a 22.5mm
$ .95
gear.
9
12Pc Gear Set 48 Pitch
Moulded in hard nylon
with generous shaft
bosses.
Cat. YG-2780
Industrial quality,
$
.95
lubrication free.
79
TAMIYA Model Tyres
Ideal for model car robotics projects!
Two types available:
Truck Tyres - Set of 4.
Includes 4 x 36mm dia tyres,
hubs to suit & Cat. YG-2860
2x100mm axles. $ .95
9
Includes 2 x 56mm dia tyres, a set of
wide and narrow hubs to suit,
screws, nuts
Cat. YG-2862
& two small
$
.95
wrenches.
16
6
2.1kg/cm Torque
•70RPM <at> 390mA
max efficiency.
•82:1 gear ratio.
Cat. YG-2732
$
.95
12
5
12kg/cm Torque
•36RPM <at> 1380mA max efficiency.
•244:1 gear ratio.
Cat. YG-2734
$
.95
Horns for Heavy
Duty Servos
19
This is a pack of 2
servo horns to
suit our heavy
duty servos.
Cat. YM-2769
$ .95
50kg/cm Torque
•140RPM <at> 11.7A max efficiency.
•1000:1 gear ratio.
5
Cat. YG-2738
$
.95
Check out our website
for full specifications High Power DC Motors
•Astonishing speed & power.
on our full range
•Long life design.
of Mechatronics
•Hard steel shafts.
products.
12V 11,800 RPM
14 Piece Sprocket Set
•6 - 12VDC operating
voltage.
•0.42kg/cm torque
Cat. YM-2770
<at> 4.7A max efficiency. $
.95
Hard nylon, suits
chain shown below.
Most have 6.35mm
(1/4") bore, 900g max
tension.
Cat. YG-2786
$
.95
14
6V 20,000 RPM
59
Spider Coupler Set
Connects a motor to a shaft that
may be slightly misaligned.
Accepts 6.35mm (1/4") shafts.
Cat. YG-2782
$ .50
Sports Tyres - Set of 2.
This is a
pack of 6
mixed servo
horns to suit
our standard
and mini
servos.
Cat. YM-2768
$ .95
39
Standard 4.8V – 6V Power Servo
6.35mm (1/4") Shaft Coupler
Horns for Mini / Standard Servos
•Work equally well in
forward or reverse.
•12VDC rated,
4.5 - 18VDC
operating voltage.
•3 - 6VDC operating voltage.
•0.32kg/cm torque <at>
13.5A max efficiency. Cat. YM-2772
$
.95
Socket Chain
to suit Sprocket Set
Hard nylon industrial quality
chain, 900g max tension.
300mm length, easily shortened
or lengthened with pliers.
12V 18,800 RPM
Cat. YG-2788
$
.95
19
18
•6 - 12VDC operating voltage.
•0.67kg/cm torque
<at> 12.8A max efficiency. Cat. YM-2774
$
.95
12V 9,700 RPM
18
•6 - 12VDC operating voltage.
•0.60kg/cm torque
<at> 6A max efficiency.
Cat. YM-2776
$
.95
PIC Robotics Book
Teaches you all to get started.
No assembly language
programming required.
374 pages
Cat. BT-1367
$
.95
230 x 185mm.
See in-store for
more Robotic Books
19
Low Cost Motor / Gearbox Set
49
Hand Crank Dynamo with Geared Motor
Add dynamo power to your
devices!
Wire it up to a small battery or
capacitor to allow dynamo power for
regular use, or just in emergencies. It
works really well. Also check out the
22F and 55F capacitors on the next
page.
Cat. YG-2730
$ .95
9
Fixed Gearbox with Motor
Cat. MD-7000
$
.95
14
Stepper Motor Interface Module for PCs
Simple control from your PC!
Control the speed and
direction of a 4-pole
stepper motor rated
between 5 and 18VDC
at up to 2A max. It connects to the
parallel port and you can control it via
the keyboard or pre-programmed
commands.
Great for experimenting!
This motor and gearbox set allows
you to achieve an array of
torque/speed configurations by
changing the gears in the gearbox.
Not all gears need to be used, so you
can customise it to your needs. See
website for details.
An inexpensive replacement!
Suitable for use in many toys,
or just for experimenting.
1.5V - 3V, 6650RPM,
Cat. YG-2725
6.4g/cm torque.
$ .50
7
12V 6-Pole Stepper Motor
Cat. AA-0352
$
.95
49
Standard design!
This standard 48-step / 7.5° design
makes it easy to use with a variety
of controllers available. 400mA
current, 400pps frequency, Cat. YM-2751
$
.95
450g/cm holding torque.
18
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
NEW HARDCORE ELECTRONICS!
Coax Seal Tape
No more water ingress!
Seal your outdoor coaxial
connections to prevent
moisture entering the connectors which
hampers signal quality and causes corrosion.
Simply wrap it around the connector and cable,
and it will turn into a removable water
Cat. NM-2828
resistant seal that lasts for years.
$ .95
•12mm wide
As used by NASA
and the US military
•1.5m length.
9
IEC320 to Mains Socket – UPS Lead
Here at last!
After countless requests we
have a lead to plug mains
Cat. PS-4100
devices into a UPS
$ .95
which has IEC320
sockets. 150mm long.
9
10mW Green Laser Module
Extremely bright!
This laser module
consists of a 10mW
laser diode, lens, and driver PCB. Simply connect a
3VDC supply, & you have a great high Cat. ST-3117
$
.95
power laser. •Datasheet included.
•Measures 65(L) x 11(dia)mm.
149
INOX – MX3 Lubricant /
Corrosion Inhibitor
Check this out!
Similar to popular water displacement/lube
products, but it contains NO silicone or kerosene
based solvents. This makes it benign, so it
can be used around food! Of course it also
works really well on seized nuts and
bolts, hinges etc.
Two types available:
Cat. NA-1022
125g Spray Pump
$ .50
Cat. NA-1022
6
300g Aerosol
Cat. NA-1024
(cannot be sent via post)
Cat. NA-1024
$ .95
9
24
Very versatile!
Ideal for brazing, silver soldering,
jewellery work, heatshrinking, and a
whole lot more. It has an adjustable
flame, and is easily filled with
Butane gas. Cat. TS-1660
SAVE
Was $39.95
$
.95
$10
It’s time to upgrade!
We have all used contact
and non-contact testers
before, but here is something new. This
one has an adjustable sensitivity so you Cat. QP-2276
can start using the sensor from up to 1m $
.95
away! Also features a small LED torch.
19
Powertech Switchmode Power Supplies
Affordable quality!
Priced well below our current range with the
same features and durability. See website for
individual specifications.
25W 12VDC
MP-3160 $44.95
25W 24VDC
MP-3162 $44.95
40W 12VDC
MP-3165 $54.95
40W 24VDC
MP-3167 $54.95
60W 12VDC
MP-3170 $59.95
60W 24VDC
MP-3172 $59.95
60W 5/12VDC
MP-3174 $64.95
100W 12VDC
MP-3175 $69.95
100W 24VDC Open Frame
MP-3179 $69.95
120V 5/24VDC
MP-3180 $99.95
150W 12VDC
MP-3185 $94.95
150W 15VDC
MP-3187 $94.95
150W 24VDC
MP-3189 $94.95
240W 12VDC
MP-3250 $169.95
22F and 55F 2.5V Super Capacitors
This is not a misprint!
22 Farad and 55 Farad super
capacitors, specially engineered
for high energy storage. Great
for replacing bulkier secondary
batteries in many circuits.
See website for details.
22F Measures 12 x 25mm Cat. RE-6702 $
Plenty of power!
Make plastic pipes
malleable, remove heat
sensitive glue, shrink heatshrink
tubing, and a whole lot more. It is
lightweight with a high airflow rate,
and mains powered. 400°C to 600°C
temperature range. Ltd qty. Cat. TH-1600
$
.95
79
For the avid enthusiast!
It has an adjustable
tip temperature of
up to 580°C, with
equivalent electrical
power of approximately 15 – 75W.
45min run-time on a 20 second refill.
Was $89.95
SAVE
$5
Cat. TS-1310
$
.95
84
BUY THIS:
Goot Antistatic Temperature
Controlled Soldering Station
High temperature
stability and
antistatic
properties make
it ideal for all sorts
of soldering
work.
Cat. TS-1440
$
.00
GET THESE FREE:
Metal Desolder Tool
TH-1862
$15.75
Soldering Iron Tip Conditioner
TH-1512
$6.50
Soldering Iron Tip Cleaner
TS-1510
$12.95
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
12.95
19.95
Cat. RE-6704 $
229
1600W Heat ‘n Strip Gun
VELLEMAN Pic Programmer / Checker
Portasol Pro Piezo Gas Soldering Iron
SAVE
$15
Cat. TS-1300
$
.95
Piezo Ignition Micro Torch
29
Non-Contact Voltage Tester with
Adjustable Sensitivity
55F Measures 18 x 40mm
Portasol 50 Gas Soldering Iron
Great entry level iron!
With a fixed tip
temperature of
350°C, it is suitable
for a range of
applications. 35W approximate
electrical equivalent, with a
30min run-time from a refill.
Was $39.95 Ltd qty
This section is dedicated to what’s new
for the Hardcore Enthusiast.
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
Versatile!
Supporting 8p, 14p, 18p, and 24p
PIC microcontrollers, this board
is quite versatile. It includes test
buttons and LED indicators for onboard experimenting and testing,
as well as programming software.
Includes a PIC16F627.
Cat. XC-4402
$
.00
119
Encapsulated Toroidals
•Low magnetic stray
field emissions.
•Low standby current.
•Low profile.
•Magnetic shielded.
•Fully encapsulated.
•See website for details.
3.2VA 12V MT-2030 3.2VA 18V MT-2032
7.0VA 12V MT-2036 7.0VA 18V MT-2038
3.2VA
7.0VA
7.0VA 24V MT-2040
$
.95
$
.95
19
22
HK-828 45 Second Voice Recorder IC
Great for projects! The HK-828 voice recorder
IC is a great low-cost record/playback device
for use in many projects. There are
loads of great applications
and data sheets are on our
website. This IC is used in a
voice recorder project,
Cat. ZZ-8200
described in Silicon Chip
$
.95
Magazine, May 2005.
See page 8 for the kit.
19
Pre Built Luxeon LED Power Module
An affordable power supply for
Luxeon LEDs!
This pre-built module
can power 1, 2, or 3
1W Luxeon LEDs from
a DC supply of between
11 and 30V.
Cat. AA-0580
$
.95
39
Parrot™ Clip Leads
The one and only!
Parrot™ leads are the ideal
connecting lead for work on
small components and ICs. They
clip onto solder legs and
terminals to make temporary
connections easy. 1m long, two
colours available:
Red
WC-6030 BOTH TYPES
Black
WC-6031 $ .95EA
SAVE
$2
7
Was $9.95
60W SMD Soldering Tweezers
The best way to
SAVE
solder SMD.
$30
Solder & desolder
small components or large flat
pack ICs. Tips available from 2
to 20mm.
Cat. TS-1700
2mm tips
$
.95
supplied.
Was $99.95
69
THAT’S
$35.20 VALUE
ABSOLUTELY
FREE!
Desk Mount Magnifier Lamp
See things in a new light!
Featuring high quality metal
frame construction and a high
power 22W circular fluorescent
lamp, it is the ideal companion
Cat. QM-3525
to any workbench.
$
.00
See website for details.
Was $109
SAVE
$20
89
7
"Clock Watchers" LED Clock Kit
This clock is hypnotic!
Ref: SC June 2005. It consists
of an AVR driven clock circuit
which drives a 12 or 24hr
display. Also, around the
perimeter are 3mm LEDs, and
5mm LEDs every five seconds.
The clock produces a dazzling
display as it counts the seconds,
EXCLUSIVE
which is so good it can’t be properly TO JAYCAR
explained here. Log onto our website
and follow the prompts to see it in action.
Kit supplied with double sided silk-screened
PCB, and all board components, as
Cat. KC-5404
$
.00
well as the special clock housing.
129
VELLEMAN USB Controlled Interface Kit
No parallel, no problems!
This interface kit
offers 5 digital and 2
analogue inputs, as
well as 8 digital and
2 analogue outputs!
That is plenty for
experimenting and
interfacing with your
home or devices in
many ways. It is powered straight from the USB port,
and even has on-board test functions. The kit is
supplied with all components, silk screened PCB,
assembly manual, and software.
Cat. KV-3600
$
.95
You will not be disappointed.
69
YOUR LOCAL JAYCAR STORE
NEW SOUTH WALES
Albury
Ph (02) 6021 6788
Alexandria
Ph (02) 9699 4699
Bankstown
Ph (02) 9709 2822
Bondi Junction Ph (02) 9369 3899
Brookvale
Ph (02) 9905 4130
Campbelltown Ph (02) 4620 7155
Erina
Ph (02) 4365 3433
Hornsby
Ph (02) 9476 6221
Newcastle
Ph (02) 4965 3799
Parramatta
Ph (02) 9683 3377
Penrith
Ph (02) 4721 8337
Silverwater
Ph (02) 9741 8557
St. Leonards Ph (02) 9439 4799
Sydney City
Ph (02) 9267 1614
Taren Point
Ph (02) 9531 7033
Wollongong
Ph (02) 4226 7089
VICTORIA
Coburg
Ph (03) 9384 1811
Frankston
Ph (03) 9781 4100
Geelong
Ph (03) 5221 5800
Melbourne
Ph (03) 9663 2030
Ringwood
Ph (03) 9870 9053
Springvale
Ph (03) 9547 1022
QUEENSLAND
Aspley
Ph (07) 3863 0099
Brisbane - Woolloongabba
Ph (07) 3393 0777
Gold Coast - Mermaid Beach
Ph (07) 5526 6722
Townsville
Ph (07) 4772 5022
Underwood
Ph (07) 3841 4888
AUSTRALIAN CAPITAL TERRITORY
Canberra
Ph (02) 6239 1801
TASMANIA
Hobart
Ph (03) 6272 9955
SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Adelaide
Ph (08) 8231 7355
Clovelly Park Ph (08) 8276 6901
WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Perth
Ph (08) 9328 8252
NORTHERN TERRITORY
Darwin
Ph (08) 8948 4043
NEW ZEALAND
Hamilton
Ph (07) 846 0177
Newmarket - Auckland
Ph (09) 377 6421
Glenfield - Auckland
Ph (09) 444 4628
Wellington
Ph (04) 801 9005
Christchurch Ph (03) 379 1662
Freecall Orders Ph 0800 452 9227
8
3 to 9V DC/DC
Converter Kit
Wine Cooler Kit
Make a cheap wine cooler!
Ref: SC June 05. This project
turns a regular fridge or freezer
into a wine cooler by accurately
controlling the temperature to make it
suitable for wine storage. A much
cheaper option than commercial
Cat. KC-5413
$
.95
units. Kit supplied with PCB, case,
mains plug & all electronic components.
39
Bass Extender Kit
An extra octave of
bass response!
Ref: Silicon Chip April 2005.
This project boosts the level of
bass to counteract the frequency roll-off
of your loudspeaker enclosures, effectively
Cat. KC-5411
giving you an extra octave of bass
$
.95
response. Kit includes PCB & all
electronic components.
Voice Recorder Kit
Recording flexibility!
Ref: SC May 2004.
Record and playback
up to 60 seconds of
audio, all under the
control of a PC or
microcontroller.
Variable sampling rate
allows quality selection, and more. Kit
supplied with PCB, voice recorder IC,
and all electronic components.
Cat. KC-5412
$
.95
39
MIDI Theremin Synthesiser Kit
Exclusive to Jaycar!
Ref: Silicon Chip April / May 05.
Instead of
generating
a Theremin
like tone,
it relies on a
50MHz Frequency Meter Kit
MIDI
Cheap and accurate!
accessible
Ref: SC Oct 2003. It is auto
synthesiser
ranging, and displays on a
or a
16 character LCD. Resolution
Cat. KC-5369 computer
varies between 0.1 and 10Hz depending $
.95 with a
on the input frequency. Includes all
sound
components and hardware. Requires probe.
card.
When
IR Remote Control Tester Kit
set up (usually with a
Includes auxiliary output!
computer), it will play up to 120
Ref: Silicon Chip January 2005.
different instrument selections in 15 types,
It lights an LED and sounds a
by 8 variations. There are loads of features and
buzzer if an IR code is detected.
functions, too many to list here, so check out our
It also features an output for
website or the Silicon Chip articles for full details. Kit
further analysis on an
Cat. KC-5407
supplied with PCB, case, LCD, and all
Cat. KC-5410
$
.95
oscilloscope. Kit supplied with PCB,
$
.00
electronic components.
case, and all electronic components.
19
69
29
Never buy
expensive 12V
batteries again!
Ref: SC March
’04. It converts
the power from
cheaper AA, C or D cells Cat. KC-5391
$
.95
to 9V. Includes PCB and
all electronic components.
The SHORT CIRCUITS LEARNING SYSTEM
The Short Circuits learning system is a great way to learn
electronics. It is fun, informative, and you build great
projects along the way. Here is just one from Short Circuits 3…
Simple FM Alarm Kit
Recover your stolen goods!
Installed in an appliance, it transmits a tone over the FM band so
you can track down goods using an FM radio. Includes PCB and
components.
14
10A Motor Speed
Controller Kit
Very versatile!
Ref: SC June ’97.
It can handle up to 10A,
or 20A with an extra
MOSFET (ZT-2450
$7.80). Includes PCB, Cat. KC-5225
$
.95
and all electronic
components.
159
Dr Video Kit MkII
An even better video stabiliser!
Ref: Silicon Chip June ‘04.
Movie companies
deliberately
tamper with
the video
signal to
restrict
copying, but
Kit
this robs you of
the true high
quality picture your system is capable of and
you deserve. Get the picture you paid for and
strip out these annoying signals from
composite or S-video.
Cat. KC-5390
Kit includes PCB, case,
$
.95
Cat. KG-9032 panels and all electronic
$ .95
components.
23
1W Audio Amplifier
Tiny!
It measures just 28 x
28mm, but has all
the electronics to
provide 1W
amplification. 6-12VDC
source. Includes PCB
and electronic
components.
99
7
Over 160 pages! The Performance Electronics for Cars Book from
Silicon Chip publications has chapters on modification and theory, as
well as the 16 projects. Here is just one… Cat. BS-5080 $19.80
Laser Light Show Kit
Great for parties!
Using a laser
pointer (not
included), you
can project
patterns similar
to a spirograph toy onto a
wall. Kit includes PCB,
motors, and all electronic
components.
Cat. KG-9098
$
.95
39
12VDC Relay Card Kit
Low current trigger!
This kit will close the relay
contacts with just 5mA as
a trigger. Great for use
with a kit using an LED
trigger. Includes PCB and
electronic
Cat. KG-9142
components.
$ .95
Liquid Level Sensor Kit
Universal Voltage Switch Kit
PRICES VALID TO
END JULY 2005
12
7
Performance Electronics for Cars Book
Automatic device switching!
Use it to trigger cooling systems, fans, and
more from sensors. This can include
temperature sensors, throttle position sensors,
and more. Kit includes PCB
and all electronic components.
Cat. KJ-8054
$
.95
Cat. KC-5377
$
.95
29
Don’t overfill with
water restrictions!
When the two
contacts are
shorted by liquid,
and LED will
illuminate. Kit includes
PCB, and all electronic
components.
Cat. KG-9138
$ .95
7
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
PRODUCT SHOWCASE
New range of LCD, VFD & PLED displays
Dominion Electronics, the Australian distributor for Rabbit Semiconductor and Kontron Embedded Technology products, are now supplying the
Asia Pacific Embedded Technology
market with the latest industry proven,
high performance serial
and USB Liquid Crystal
Displays from
Matrix Orbital.
Matrix Orbital
LCD units are an ideal
solution for engineers
who want a powerful but
cost-effective design. Using proprietary technology,
Matrix Orbital custom manufactures LCD solutions that offer
a variety of sizes, shapes, colours,
functions and innovations to meet
industry demand.
Offering flexible, dependable, easyto-program displays, these products
are suitable for applications ranging
from short run prototyping to large
volume production runs.
Using Liquid Crystal Display (LCD),
Vacuum Fluorescent Display (VFD)
or the new Polymeric Light Emitting
Diode (PLED) technologies, the Matrix
Orbital displays are built to easily plug
into customer hardware and provide a
user friendly customer interface.
View all the latest Embedded
Technology offerings from Dominion Electronics including Computer on Modules
(COM), Single Board
Computers (SBC) and
Human Machine Interfaces (HMI) on
the new Dominion
Electronics website.
Contact:
Dominion Electronics
Unit 13, 82 Reserve Rd, Artarmon NSW 2064
Tel: (02) 9906 6988
Website: www.dominion.net.au
Jaycar boss is
“desperate”
Gary Johnston, Managing Director of Jaycar Electronics, would
not normally be thought of as a
desperate man. After all, he has a
highly successful and fast-growing
electronics chain at his fingertips.
“That’s exactly why I’m desperate,” he told SILICON CHIP. “I want to
continue the incredibly successful
expansion of Jaycar Electronics
throughout Australia and New Zealand and
even overseas but I’ve reached the point
where I’m stuck. I simply cannot find enough
good staff to help me grow.”
“Maybe my standards are too high, but
that is one thing that I won’t be relaxing. I
know there must be good, dedicated people
out there working in the wholesale and retail
electronics area.”
“Perhaps they are working for opposition
companies and feel they are stuck in a rut,
or even disillusioned with the direction their
organisations are heading and would like to
work for a company that is going places. Maybe
not the biggest, yet, but definitely the best”.
siliconchip.com.au
Up to 190 Lumen
ultrabright
Luxeon
Star LEDs
– now in
red shades
Luxeon have just released new additions to the Luxeon III Star (3W)
LED range – now available from Prime
Electronics.
Up to now, high power 3W LEDs
have only been available in white,
green, cyan, blue and royal blue.
Three additional colours are now
available – red, amber and red-orange
– the brightest red LEDs around, with
up to 190 lumens per single source
(red-amber LED)!
The new LEDs have lower forward
voltages (typical 2.95V) but are able
to be driven with an average current
of 1400mA.
Peak pulsed forward current is now
rated to 2200mA.
For more information, visit the
Prime Electronics website or any of
their showrooms (Brisbane, Sydney
and Gold Coast).
Contact:
Prime Electronics
22-26 Campbell St, Bowen Hills, QLD 4006
Tel: (07) 3252 7466 Fax: (07) 3252 2862
Website: www.prime-electronics.com.au
TOROIDAL POWER
“The opportunities for advancement at
Jaycar are fantastic for the right people.”
“There are vacancies right now in every
area of Jaycar Electronics – operations, mail
order, wholesale, retail, you name it. And with
the number of stores now in operation and
in planning (when he can get staff!), there’s
bound to be a store close enough to avoid
travelling,” he said.
If you’d like more information about the
opportunities at Jaycar, email jobs<at>jaycar.
com.au in complete confidence.
Look, he’s that desperate, you can even
talk to Gary Johnston personally – call him
on (02) 9741 8555.
TRANSFORMERS
Manufactured in Australia
Comprehensive data available
Harbuch Electronics Pty Ltd
9/40 Leighton Pl. HORNSBY 2077
Ph (02) 9476-5854 Fx (02) 9476-3231
July 2005 57
Network testing gear from Microgram
Need to troubleshoot network cabling? Microgram have a couple of
products which could make your life
a lot simpler.
First is a Tone Generator and Probe
Kit, a highly practical network installation and troubleshooting tool, which
features a single or multi-tone signal,
two test leads and a 4-conductor
modular cable.
The signal emitted by the Tone
Generator and Probe Kit can be used
to verify cable continuity, identify wiring faults, determine line polarity and
voltage in network (Cat 5 and Coax)
and modular telephone lines.
The Probe is equipped with a tone
amplifier and a LED indicator that
detects audible frequency tones for
accurate tracing and identification
of wires.
The Tone Generator and Probe Kit is
priced at $129 (Cat 11520-13).
Second is a Network Tester with LCD
Display which will save you time and
money. It tests a range of modular cables including 10Base-T (Category 3-5).
The LCD display shows the pin connections as well as the wiring scheme
detected, eg 100Base / Hub. It is priced
at $149.00 (Cat 11519-13).
Contact:
Microgram Computers
1/14 Bon Mace Cl, Berkeley Vale 2261
Tel: (02) 4389 8444 Fax: (02) 4389 8388
Website: www.microgram.com.au
Automate, Austronics & Electrix exhibitions for September
Automate, Australia’s leading hitech manufacturing exhibition for the
automation and process industries,
will be staged for the first time at Sydney Showground, Sydney Olympic
Park from 13-15 September, 2005.
Automate is co-located with Austronics, Australia’s International
Electronics Industry Exhibition and
Electrix, Australia’s International
Electrical Industry Exhibition, giving last year’s 8479 key buyers, specifiers and decision-makers access to
three major industry shows in the
one visit.
The Sydney Showground is also
easily accessible to other major
manufacturing centres in New
South Wales, allowing easier access for more key decision-makers
who are keen to discover the latest
manufacturing technology, including
robotics & automation, instrumentation & process control, computers in
manufacturing, test & measurement,
hydraulics & pneumatics.
Contact:
BOSCOMM Pty Ltd
Level 7, 505 St Kilda Rd, Melbourne 3004.
Tel: (03) 9868 1616 Fax: (03) 9868 1673
Website: www.boscomm.com.au
“Best of Show” to Integeo’s Map Intelligence
Elsewhere in this issue
we briefly report on CeBIT
2005. Spatial business intelligence company Integeo
was awarded “Best of Show
– Products and Services”
for its Map Intelligence
product.
Map Intelligence bridges the gap
between business intelligence (BI)
software and geographic information
systems (GIS), allowing non-expert
users to create information-rich and
interactive maps from the contents of
digital dashboards or spreadsheets.
No programming knowledge is
required to use Map Intelligence,
58 Silicon Chip
minimising the costs of
developing a full blown
GIS application.
I n t e g e o ’s A u s t r a l ian customers include
Northern Territory Police,
Queensland Rail, Australian Customs Service and
the Australian Department of Employment and Workplace Relations.
Contact:
Integeo
Suite 116, Bay 9, Locomotive Workshop,
Aust. Technology Park, Eveleigh NSW 1430
Tel: (02) 9209 4152 Fax: (02) 9209 4172
Website: www.integeo.com
New Fluke data-logging
DMM package
A productivity-enhancing package
of tools and accessories from Fluke
includes the top-end Fluke 189 logging digital multimeter, a USB cable
adapter, premium test leads and alligator clips, the Fluke 80BK temperature
thermocouple, extended life battery
pack, soft carrying case and the Fluke
TPak magnetic hanger strap. The kit
price saves the buyer more than 20%
over separately sourced items.
The 189 delivers high accuracy
(0.025% basic DCV accuracy) and over
20 different measurement functions.
In addition, it can measure and log AC
and DC voltage and current, resistance
and continuity, temperature and dB,
as well as perform diode tests.
Data logging gives electricians,
engineers and plant technicians a
tremendous productivity advantage.
The Fluke 189 captures and timestamps events that exceed limits set
by the user.
The meter can log data for more than
two weeks (995 points maximum),
while the technician goes ahead with
other productive work.
Using the FlukeView Forms software included in the Data Logging
Kit, the technician can then make the
logged information “come alive” on
a PC display.
Compatible with Microsoft Windows, FlukeView Forms can display
and overlay data from up to six DMMs
on a single chart, to show cause and
effect relationships or for predictive
maintenance applications.
Contact:
Fluke Australia Pty Ltd
Unit 26/7 Anella Ave, Castle Hill NSW 2154
Tel: (02) 8850 3333 Fax: (02) 8850 3300
Web: www.fluke.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
Denon’s new universal player first with HQV
Hollywood
Q u a l i t y Vi d e o
(HQV) is now exclusive to Denon’s
latest flagship ultra
Universal Player,
the DVD-A1XV.
This features a
new standard in DVD replay. Until
now, pristine images were available
only to Hollywood post-production
and broadcast facilities.
The Realta HQV processing system
offers professional-quality de-interlacing using four-field processing for
video and film sources, noise and motion adaptive pixel-by-pixel 4D noise
reduction to reduce noise for video and
film sources, plus detail enhancement
that improves image detail to deliver
standard definition pictures that approach high-definition quality.
The DVD-A1XV employs a highly
advanced video scaler. A high-precision 10-bit scaler together with a
14-bit, 216MHz video DAC designed
to work with HDMI and DVI digital
video output signals, obtains optimum
conversion to suit the output of both.
It also means that the DVD-A1XV can
output digital video signals simultaneously to both outputs.
The DVD-A1XV supports a
heavy-duty drive
mechanism and
vibration resistance chassis construction that
suppresses any
internal and external vibration, often
the cause of signal interference.
It is able to play virtually any
digital disc including DVD, DVD-A,
SACD, MP3, WMA JPEG, Photo CD,
DVD/CD-R, +R, etc and offers every
known current consumer based output connection including HDMI, DVI,
Firewire, Denon LINK, Progressive
Component, Composite, S-Video, and
RGB (SCART). The DVD-A1XV also
supports PAL and NTSC conversion
and is THX Ultra certified.
The Denon DVD-A1XV is covered
by a nationwide two-year parts and
labour warranty, has an RRP of $5999
and is available at selected authorised
Denon retailers.
Contact:
Audio Products Pty Ltd
67 O’Riordan St, Alexandria NSW 2015
Tel: (02) 9669 3477 Fax: (02) 9578 0140
Web: www.audioproducts.com.au
Epson offering big prizes in digital photo competition
Epson has launched the “Epson Color
Imaging Contest 2005”, one of the worlds
largest photographic and graphic arts
contests, with hundreds of prizes including
trips to Tokyo and more than 6 million yen
[about $A75,000] in prize money to share
among the winners.
Photographers of all skill levels are
encouraged to submit their prints in this
prestigious international contest, with entries
closing in Japan on 31 August 2005.
There are three major award categories:
“Color Imaging Award” is Epson’s most
prestigious award, aimed at artists, art
school students, photographers, enthusiasts and professionals. Entries can be
a colour photograph or a graphic design,
computer graphic, painting, lithograph, or
illustration, that explores the possibilities
of graphic expression through the digital
processes. First prize is two million yen
[about $A24,000] and Epson products
valued at about $A500.
“Nature and Human Life Photo Award”
is aimed at photography enthusiasts and
siliconchip.com.au
advanced amateurs who specialise in
natural scenery, animals, plants or human
portraits. There are two first prizes of one
million yen [about $A12,000] and Epson
products valued at about $A500. They
are for the best nature print of natural
scenery, animals, plants and insects; and
for the best human life print of people or
man-made objects.
“Family Snap Award” is for people who
just love taking photographs of family
members, friends, pets, scenery, sports,
events, travel and holidays. There are three
main prizes worth a total of 800,000 yen
[about $A10,000] and numerous smaller
prizes.
Held since Epson introduced the first
colour inkjet printer to the market in 1994,
the contest allows Epson to help promote
new forms of expression through digital
printing and create a vibrant digital photo
culture.
Details of how to enter, prizes and
entry forms can be found at: https://
www.clubepson.com.au/competitions/
competitions/2005_61/competition.asp
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ELECTRONICS
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WebLINK: www.jaycar.com.au
www.jaycar.com.au
J
2005 59
This easy-to-build unit
plugs into the serial
port of your PC
and can control up
to four separate
stepper motors via
suitable driver boards.
Alternatively, you can
cascade up to four units to
control up to 16 steppers.
It’s easy to program too.
By GREG RADION
Serial Stepper
Motor Controller
U
NTIL NOW, IT HAS BEEN relatively difficult for the experimenter to properly control stepper motors
using a computer. That’s because most
stepper motor kits sold today interface
the step and direction inputs to a parallel port and then require you to write
the software to switch these inputs.
If you need to incorporate limit
switches and acceleration and deceleration of the stepper motor, what
started out as a simple job turns out to
be complicated and time consuming.
What’s more, parallel port designs
can generally control only one or
two motors and some designs don’t
allow multiple boards to be cascaded
together.
The Serial Stepper Motor Controller (SSMC) described here overcomes
these problems. It’s a relatively compact microcontroller-based design
that attaches to a PC’s serial port and
provides control for up to four stepper
motors (via a suitable driver board).
What’s more, it does away with the
need for special software to control
60 Silicon Chip
the acceleration and deceleration of
the motors. Instead, you just issue
the basic commands and the software
inside the microcontroller does all the
hard work for you.
It’s really very easy to program.
There are just nine commands (see
Table 2) and these are all entered via
a standard serial terminal program (eg,
HyperTerminal). We’ll have more on
this later.
Want to control more than four steppers? No problem – up to four Serial
Stepper Motor Controller boards can
be cascaded (or “ganged”) together and
individually addressed. This allows
you to control up to 16 stepper motors,
all from the one serial port.
You can’t do that with most parallel port designs and, in any case, the
parallel port is rapidly disappearing
(many laptops no longer include a
parallel port, for example). And with
the availability of cheap USB-to-serial
converters, this controller could easily
be adapted for use on any USB port.
Fig.1 shows how the SSMC boards
are connected. Note that the SSMC
board does not directly drive the motors, since it has no on-board driver
circuitry. Instead, each stepper motor
is driven via a separate driver board.
There are several stepper motor
driver kits available that can be used
with the SSMC board. These include
kits K179 (unipolar) and K142B (bipolar) from Oatley Electronics. The
unipolar driver board was originally
published as the Mini-Stepper Motor
Driver in the May 2002 issue of SILICON
CHIP. It can control both 5-wire and
6-wire unipolar stepper motors, while
the bipolar board controls 4-wire and
6-wire motors.
Each of these kits has step and
direction signal inputs which allow
the user to control the movement of
the motor. The Serial Stepper Motor
Controller simply connects to these
step and direction inputs on the driver
cards.
Stepper motors
Before moving on to the circuit
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: up to four Serial Stepper Motor Controller
(SSMC) boards can be cascaded together, so that
you can separately control up to 16 stepper motors
from the PC. Note that each stepper is driven via a
separate driver board (see text).
description, let’s take a closer look at
the way stepper motors work. Unlike
regular DC or AC motors which have
commutator brushes to automatically
switch the stator coils, stepper motors
have no brushes. Instead, the coils
inside a stepper motor are individually switched by the stepper motor
control circuit.
The accompanying panel explains
the differences between conventional
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motors and stepper motors in greater
detail.
There are two main types of stepper
motor: unipolar and bipolar. Let’s take
a look at each type in turn.
Unipolar stepper motors
Most unipolar stepper motors contain two centre-tapped coils and these
effectively act as four individual coils
– see Fig.2(a). These motors have either
five or six wires. Five-wire motors join
the two centre taps together, while
6-wire motors bring out the centre tap
connections individually.
In addition, there are 8-wire unipolar stepper motors and these have four
individual coils, with a wire for each
end of each of the coils.
The four coils of a unipolar stepper motor are individually activated
and deactivated sequentially by the
July 2005 61
This driver board can be
used with both 5-wire and
6-wire unipolar motors.
It’s available from Oatley
Electronics (Cat. K179).
Oatley Electronics also
has a board to drive
bipolar stepper motors
(Cat. K142B).
Fig.2(a): unipolar stepper motors
generally have either five or six
wires. Five-wire motors join the
two centre taps together, while
6-wire motors bring the centre
tap connections out separately.
being that the current flowing though
each pair of coils must be reversible.
Bipolar stepper motors generally
have less steps than unipolar stepper
motors of the same size but provide
more torque. Note that unipolar stepper motors can also act as bipolar
stepper motors if the centre taps are
omitted.
Circuit details
Fig.2(b): bipolar stepper motors
have only two coils and four
wires. As a result, their drive
requirements differ from
unipolar stepper motors, the
main difference being that the
current flowing though each pair
of coils must be reversible.
controller. Each time this is done, the
motor advances one step.
Bipolar stepper motors
Bipolar stepper motors have only
two coils and four wires – see Fig.2(b).
That means that the drive requirements for bipolar stepper motors is
somewhat different to that of unipolar
stepper motors, the main difference
The circuit for the Serial Stepper
Motor Controller is shown in Fig.3.
First, incoming data on the serial port
(K2) is converted to 0-5V microcontroller “friendly” levels by a MAX232
chip (IC3). This data is then processed
by an Atmel ATMEGA8 microcontroller (IC).
DIP switch S1 (2-way) is used to set
the address of the board when multiple
SSMC boards are plugged together. As
shown, the switch lines are run to port
lines PD2 & PD3, which are normally
pulled high via two 10kW resistors (ie,
when both switches are open).
Provision is also made on the circuit
to accept limit switch inputs. These
inputs (LS1-LS4) are fed to port lines
PD5-PD7 & PB0 which again are normally pulled high. The 10kW resistors
in series with the port pins provide
protection for the microcontroller.
Where To Buy A Kit
The Serial Stepper Motor Controller was developed by Ocean Controls, 4
Ferguson Drive, Balnarring, Vic and all copyright is retained by Ocean Controls. Prices are as follows:
(1) Full kit of parts for SSMC (Cat. KT-5190) .......................... $55.00 + GST
(2) Fully assembled SSMC unit (Cat. KT-5190A) ................... $65.00 + GST
Visit the company’s website at www.oceancontrols.com.au for pricing
and ordering details, or phone (03) 5983 1163. Note: prices do not include
postage.
62 Silicon Chip
The “Step” and “Direction” outputs
appear at port lines PB1-PB2 & PC0PC5 and are fed through to their onboard terminals via a 74HC245 buffer
chip (IC3).
K2 is a 9-pin female D-connector
and this is used to connect the circuit
to the PC (via an RS232 cable). This
is also wired in parallel with K3, a
9-pin male D-connector which allows additional controller boards to
be connected.
The associated 18kW resistor and
diode D2 are necessary to allow multiple devices to be connected to the
serial link (see the section below on
“multi-dropping”).
The terminal connectors provide
connection for power at terminal
Vs, limit switch inputs (L1-L4), step
outputs (S1-S4) and direction outputs
(D1-D4).
Power for the circuit is derived from
a 9-12V DC plugpack supply, with
diode D1 providing reverse polarity
protection. A 3-terminal regulator
(REG1) is then used to provide a +5V
rail to power the ICs.
Using the Controller
The Ocean Controls Serial Stepper
Motor Controller is controlled using a
serial terminal program, set at a baud
rate of 9600, with one start bit, one stop
bit and no parity. The accompanying
panel shows how to set up HyperTerminal, which comes with Windows.
The commands for the controller
take the form:
<at>AA CMND XXXX
where AA is the 2-digit number of
the motor being addressed (between
01 and 16 - see Table 1), CMND is the
4-letter command (see Table 3), and
XXXX is a numeric value associated
with the command (see Table 2).
When a valid command is received
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.3: the complete circuit for the Serial Stepper Motor Controller. The MAX32 chip (IC2) converts the RS232 data to
TTL levels and this data is then processed by microcontroller IC1 to derive the step and direction control signals.
by the unit, it responds with the address preceded by a hash symbol – ie,
#AA – and this is followed by a value
if it is requested.
Status command detail
The status command returns the
state of each of the motors attached to
a single controller board. Valid “stat”
commands have the address of the first
motor on the board, eg:
<at>01 STAT returns the status of
motors 01-04
<at>05 STAT returns the status of
motors 05-08
<at>09 STAT returns the status of
motors 09-12
<at>13 STAT returns the status of
motors 13-16
siliconchip.com.au
These are the four valid status
commands. The returned value is a
12-bit binary representation indicating
whether the motors are moving, their
direction and the state of the limit
switches. Table 3 shows the general
format.
Multi-dropping
”Multi-dropping” is the term used
when connecting multiple slaves to
one master. This is achieved by including a signal diode on the transmit
outputs of the slaves, plus a resistor to
pull the transmit line to ground when
it is not being used. The diode prevents
voltages produced by transmitted data
from the slaves appearing on the transmit pins of the other slaves.
All the slaves receive the same
data from the master and decode it if
necessary.
Fig.4 shows the basic scheme for
multi-dropping. Note that the 18kW
pull-down resistor and the diode (D2)
are included in the circuit, so you don’t
have to worry about adding these if
you do decide to connect several units
together. All you have to do is plug
Table 1 – Addressing
S2
S1
Off
Off
Motor
Numbers
01-04
Off
On
05-08
On
On
Off
On
09-12
13-16
July 2005 63
the SSMC boards together, as shown
in Fig.1.
Acceleration
Fig.4: multiple slaves can be connected to one master controller using a
technique called “multi-dropping”. This diagram shows how the scheme is
implemented using diodes and pull-down resistors.
Each time a command to move a
stepper motor is issued, the Serial
Stepper Motor Controller calculates
the stepping times to give a gradual
acceleration and deceleration.
In operation, the acceleration and
final speed are determined by the
ACCN, ACCI and RATE parameters.
The default values are 50ms, 2ms
and 10ms respectively but these can
be changed simply by issuing the appropriate command.
When a command is issued to move
the motor, it starts stepping at one step
every “ACCN ms” and then decreases
this by “ACCI ms” every step until the
interval is “RATE ms”. Subsequently,
as the motor approaches the final position, the step interval then increases
by “ACCI ms” from “RATE ms” until
the final position is reached, at which
point the interval will be back to
“ACCN ms” – see Fig.5.
Limit switches
Fig.5: the microcontroller on the SSMC board calculates the stepping times
to determine the acceleration and deceleration – see text.
Table 2 – Use These Commands To Control Your Stepper
Command
Description
POSN
Set the position that motor AA is currently at to XXXX, where XXXX is between
-99,999,999 and 99,999,999.
PSTT
Returns the position of motor AA.
AMOV
Move motor AA to absolute position XXXX, where XXXX is between
-99,999,999 and 99,999,999.
RMOV
Move motor AA relatively from the current position by XXXX, where XXXX is
between -99,999,999 and 99,999,999.
STOP
Stop motor AA immediately.
STAT
Get the status of the motors (see “Status Command Detail” section in text).
ACCN
Set the maximum stepping rate in milliseconds of motor AA to XXXX, where
XXXX is between 0 and 9999 (see “Acceleration”). If the value for ACCN is 0
or less than RATE, then no acceleration or deceleration occurs.
ACCI
Set the Acceleration interval in milliseconds of motor AA to XXXX, where
XXXX is between 1 and 9999 (see “Acceleration”).
RATE
Set the minimum stepping rate in milliseconds of motor AA to XXXX, where
XXXX is between 1 and 9999 (see “Acceleration”).
Table 3 – Status Value
msb
L4
11
L3
10
L2
9
L1
8
D4
7
D3
6
D2
5
D1
4
M4
3
M3
2
M2
Where M, D and L represent the movement, direction and limit switches respectively.
For movement: 1 = moving, 0 = stopped.
For direction: 1 = forward, 0 = reverse.
For limit switches: 1 = closed, 0 = open.
64 Silicon Chip
lsb
M1
As stated previously, the limit
switch inputs are normally pulled
high. An input is activated when a
limiting switch closes and pulls it to
ground.
Fig.7 shows how the limit switches
are wired. Note that multiple limit
switches can be used on each motor,
provided they are wired in parallel.
Note also that normally open (NO)
switches must be used.
When a limiting switch closes, the
associated motor stops. If the switch
remains closed, the motor will then
only perform a single step in response
to each subsequent command issued.
This can be used to back the motor off
the limit switch one step at a time, for
example.
Assembly
The assembly is straightforward,
with all parts mounted on a doubledsided PC board with plated through
holes. Fig.6 shows the parts layout.
Start the assembly by installing the
resistors and diodes, taking care to
ensure that the diodes are correctly
oriented. The 9 x 10kW SIL resistor
package can also be installed at this
stage. It must be oriented with the
white dot on the package (ie, pin 1 –
the common connection) to the left.
That done, install the capacitors and
siliconchip.com.au
the crystal, followed by the IC sockets,
voltage regulator REG1 and the DIP
switch. Take care with the orientation
of the DIP switch – the “ON” marking goes towards the terminal block.
Regulator REG1 must be mounted with
its metal tab towards the two 100nF
capacitors.
Next, add the screw terminal blocks
and the two 9-pin “D” connectors (K2
& K3). The DB9F (female) connector is mounted on the left, while the
DB9M (male) connector goes to the
right. K1 (a 2 x 5-way pin header) is
for in-circuit programming but is not
supplied as part of the kit.
Note also that if you are going to
gang two or more controller boards
together, you will need to remove the
screw posts from the DB9M connectors. This is necessary to allow the
male and female connectors to mate
correctly when pushed together.
Don’t install the ICs yet – that step
comes later, after the supply rail has
been checked.
Fig.6: install the parts on the PC board as shown on this wiring diagram.
Note that pin header K1 is for in-circuit programming (ISP) but is not
supplied as part of the kit since IC1 is supplied preprogrammed.
Testing
To test the controller, first connect
power (to Vs & COM) and measure
the voltage across pins 10 & 20 of
IC2’s socket. You should get a reading
of 5V. If not, switch off immediately
and check that you have installed the
regulator (REG1) correctly.
If you do get 5V, remove the power
and push the ATMEGA-8 microcontroller (IC1), 74HC245 (IC2) and
MAX232 ICs into their sockets. Take
care to ensure that these ICs are all
Fig.7: here’s how
the limit switches
are wired. Note that
normally open (NO)
switches must be
used.
correctly oriented – each device is
installed with its notched (pin 1) end
towards the right, as shown in Fig.6.
Make sure too that all the IC pins go
into the sockets and that none are
folded underneath the IC or splayed
out down the side of the socket.
Once all the ICs are in, connect the
board to the computer using an RS232
cable and reconnect power. Set the DIP
How A Stepper Motor Works
Stepper motors are everywhere. For
example, every computer contains several (ie, in the floppy and hard disk
drives). They’re used because it is easy
to achieve very precise positional control
– far better than you can achieve with a
“normal” motor.
Unlike a conventional motor, where you
simply connect an appropriate voltage
and “away she spins”, stepper motors
require considerably more effort to get
them to work.
First of all, think of a conventional
motor. It has two main components – a
stator, which sets up the magnetic field,
and a rotor, which by magnetic attraction
or repulsion turns towards or away from
the magnetic field.
siliconchip.com.au
There’s also a commutator (actually
part of the rotor) which keeps switching
power from one coil to the next, moving
the magnetic field as well, so the rotor
has to keep moving, or rotating.
Stepper motors are similar in many respects – they have stators and they have
rotors – but they don’t have commutators.
The magnetic fields which cause attraction/repulsion, and therefore cause the
rotor to turn, are set up externally by the
motor controller.
In a stepper motor, one stator coil is
first energised, repelling the rotor. Then
that coil is de-energised and the next
one energised, again repelling the rotor.
Keep this up and the rotor turns continuously. By controlling which field coils are
energised and when, the rotation and
stopping position of the rotor can be
precisely controlled.
You will hear stepper motors referred
to as 0.9°, 1.8° and 3.6° types, and so
on. This refers to the angle of rotation for
one “step” of the motor – eg, a 0.9° motor
makes 400 individual steps to complete
one full rotation of 360°.
That’s a lot of steps, especially as each
one can be individually accessed. And
many stepper motors operate through a
gearbox, multiplying that yet again.
The speed of rotation is directly related to how fast you can switch current
between the coils. This is no problem at
low speeds but can cause problems as
the switching frequency increases.
July 2005 65
How To Configure The Terminal Program
Par t s Lis t
2 14-pin DIP sockets (for IC1)
1 16-pin DIP socket
1 20-pin DIP socket
1 2-way DIP switch (S1)
1 DB9F right-angle connector (K2)
1 DB9M right-angle connector
(K3)
6 3-way 5.08mm screw terminal
blocks
1 2-way 5.08mm terminal block
(T2)
1 8MHz crystal (X1)
STEP 1: open HyperTerminal & set up
a new connection.
STEP 2: choose that COM port that
the SSMC board is connected to.
Semiconductors
1 Atmel ATMEGA-8 programmed
microcontroller (IC1)
1 74HC245 octal buffer (IC2)
1 MAX232 RS232-to-TTL level
shifter (IC3)
1 7805 5V regulator (REG1)
1 1N4004 silicon diode (D1)
1 1N4148 silicon diode (D2)
Capacitors
2 22pF ceramic (C1, C2)
4 0.1mF monolithic (C3-C6)
4 1mF electrolytic (C7-C10)
STEP 3: configure the port settings as
shown here.
STEP 4: click File, Properties,
Settings, ASCII Setup and
select the “Send line ends with
line feeds” and “Echo typed
characters locally” functions.
STEP 5: entering the <at>01 STAT command should return #01 0 if the
board is working correctly and nothing else is connected.
switches so they address from 01-04
(ie, both off) and then run a terminal
program at 9600 baud and type <at>01
STAT and press the Enter key.
66 Silicon Chip
This should return #1 0 if the unit
is working properly and nothing else
is connected.
If you have an oscilloscope, you can
Resistors
1 9 x 10kW 10-pin SIL resistor
array
4 10kW (R1-R4)
1 18kW (R5)
give a move command such as <at>01
RMOV 1000 and view the pulses at
terminal S1 to confirm that the unit
is working. Alternatively, if you don’t
have an oscilloscope, you will have
to connect the unit to a driver board
and stepper motor. Just connect the
driver board (with its stepper) to the
S1, D1 and COM terminals and issue the above move command – the
motor should immediately move in
response.
If it does, your SSMC board is
working correctly and you can start
programming more ambitious control
sequences.
Example program
An example Visual Basic program
with source code for controlling four
motors is available on the Ocean Controls website at www.oceancontrols.
com.au. This program can easily be
expanded to control up to 16 motors
for virtually any stepper-motor apSC
plication.
siliconchip.com.au
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July
2005 67
Australia
2097
07-05
By Clive Seager*
Last month, we programmed our Schools Experimenter board
to respond to digital and analog inputs. This month we’ll see how
to use a sophisticated sensor for temperature measurement and
have some fun playing mobile phone ring tones!
In this article you will learn:
• how to make sounds and play
tunes;
• how a for...next loop operates;
• how to connect and use a digital
temperature sensor.
Sounds in electronic projects are
usually generated with an electromechanical or piezo buzzer. We’ll
describe only the piezo type here, as
they use much less power than the
electromechanical types and are well
suited for use in battery-powered
circuits.
A typical piezo buzzer contains
two main parts: a piezoelectric
transducer and its driving circuit.
The piezo transducer consists of a
polarised ceramic material bonded to
a metal disc.
A voltage applied to opposite sides
* About the author: Clive Seager is the
Technical Director of Revolution Education
Ltd, the developers of the PICAXE system.
68 Silicon Chip
of the disc will cause it to flex, so by
applying a varying voltage, it can be
made to vibrate and produce an audible sound. The built-in driving circuit
in a buzzer generally applies a voltage
that varies (or “oscillates”) at a single
frequency, resulting in a monotonous,
irritating tone.
In conjunction with the sound command, PICAXE micros can generate
a voltage at an output pin that oscillates at a programmable frequency. By
connecting a piezoelectric transducer
(without the inbuilt driver circuit) to
that pin, we can therefore make our
own buzzer for signalling purposes –
and much more.
Making sounds
In use, three numbers must follow the sound command. The first is
simply the output pin number that
is to be driven and on the Schools
Experimenter board, this will always
be output 2. The second number is
the desired pitch of the sound and can
be between 0 and 127. As one might
expect, a higher number generates
a higher frequency signal. The third
number is the length of the sound in
approximately 10ms steps.
The simple program in Listing 1
shows how to use the sound command.
In this example, three sequential tones
of equal duration are produced. Listing
2 shows how the three lines can be
combined into a single command to
save PICAXE memory space.
Note that on the Schools Experimenter board, the piezo transducer
and green LED share the same output
(output 2), so the green LED will flicker
as the sound is being generated.
For…next loops
Often it is useful to repeat a section
of BASIC code a number of times. For
example, if you wish to flash the yellow LED (on output 1) five times, you
can use a for...next loop as shown in
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: the digital output from the
DS18B20 temperature sensor
connects to input 4 of the PICAXE
micro via the header socket (H1),
as shown here. The sensor also
requires power (+V) and ground
(0V) connections and a 4.7kW
pull-up resistor.
Listing 3. In this example, variable
b1 (b for “byte”) is used as a counter
to keep track of the number of loops
completed.
Task – write a program that flashes the
green LED 10 times when the switch on
input 3 is pressed (you might need to look
at last month’s article about inputs for a
reminder).
We can use the same for…next structure to make the piezo play every possible note using the sound command,
as shown in Listing 4. The second
for…next loop in this example shows
how to repeat the scale in reverse by
using a step value of -1 (the default
step value is +1).
Fig.2: here’s how to wire up the sensor using a small solderless breadboard.
The jumper wires can be purchased in pre-cut lengths, or you can make
your own with solid-core alarm cable and wire strippers.
is lifted (a “birthday box”, perhaps).
As described last month, the program
makes use of the LDR to sense light
level, allowing it to play the tune only
at the appropriate moment.
Two numbers follow the play command, both of which can take the value
0 to 3. The first number represents the
tune (0 = Happy Birthday, 1 = Jingle
Bells, etc). The second number can be
used to flash LEDs connected to output
0 and/or output 4. We will not use this
function in our experiments, so the
second number should always be 0.
Playing your own tunes
The tune command is used when
you want to compose your own tunes
or import them using the Programming
Editor, as we’ll see shortly. The tune
command has the following syntax:
TUNE LED, speed, (note, note, note...)
where:
• LED is a variable/constant (0 -3) that
Playing built-in tunes
The sound command is great
for making simple “beep” noises
but is not well suited for playing musical tunes. Instead, the
PICAXE-08M offers the play and
tune commands for this purpose.
These musical commands operate on output 2 only, so unlike the
sound command, the play and tune
commands do not need an output
pin number.
The play command is used to
play one of the four internally preprogrammed tunes, which are: Happy
Birthday, Jingle Bells, Rudolf the Reindeer and Silent Night. For example,
the program in Listing 5 could be used
to play a tune when the lid of a box
siliconchip.com.au
The 10-way header socket (H1)
allows you to connect external
circuits to the Schools Experimenter board. A solderless breadboard
provides a convenient base on
which to construct your circuits.
July 2005 69
Fig.3: import RTTTL tunes or create
your own with the Tune Wizard,
included in versions 4.0.1 and later of
the PICAXE Programming Editor
specifies if output 0 and/or output 4
toggle at the same time as the tune is
being played. This can be used to flash
LEDs but is not used in our experiments and should always be 0.
• speed is a variable/constant (115) which specifies the tempo of the
Par t s Lis t
1 DS18B20 temperature sensor IC
1 4.7kW 0.25W 5% resistor
1 10-pin SIL header socket
1 breadboard & jumper wire
Where To Buy Parts
The DS18B20 sensor can be
ordered from MicroZed and their
resellers, see www.picaxe.com.
au for more information.
Single-in-line (SIL) header sockets
are available from Altronics (Cat.
No. P-5390). These are supplied in
40-pin sections but are easily cut
down to the desired size.
Breadboards and pre-cut jumper
wire packs are available from major
kit suppliers. Jumper wires of any
length can also be made using
solid-core telephone or alarm cable
and wire strippers.
tune; and
• note, note, etc, are the encoded
musical note data.
A detailed explanation of these parameters is beyond the scope of this
beginner’s series. More information
can be found in the PICAXE BASIC
Commands manual. We also published
details in the “PICAXE the Red-Nosed
Reindeer” project (SILICON CHIP, September 2004).
A good way to get a feel for the tune
command and its capabilities is to
import a ready-composed tune in the
form of a favourite mobile phone ring
tone. It’s actually quite easy to include
ring tones in PICAXE programs. Let’s
see how.
Importing ring tones
With a little help from the Programming Editor and its Tune Wizard, any
monophonic mobile phone ring tone
can be imported and automatically
formatted for use with the tune command.
Ring tones must be in RTTTL (ring
tone text transfer language) format
for use with this system. These are
available from a number of internet
websites, including Revolution Education’s site at www.picaxe.co.uk
An example ring tone in RTTTL
format is given in Fig.4. The first step
to importing a ring tone is to highlight
its text in Internet Explorer (or any text
editor if you have downloaded it as a
file) and use the Edit -> Copy function
to copy it to the Windows clipboard.
Next, select PICAXE -> Wizards ->
PICAXE-08M Tune from the Programming Editor’s main toolbar. This will
open the “Tune Wizard” screen (see
Fig.3). To import the tune data, simply
select Edit -> Paste ring tone. Finally,
click the large “Copy” button to copy
the formatted tune command complete
with ring tone data into your BASIC
program.
As a matter of interest, the program
in Listing 6 provides similar functionality to that in Listing 5 but uses the
tune command instead of the play
command.
Important: in Listing 6, we’ve divid-
Fig.4: Star Wars Theme Tune In RTTTL Format
Star Wars Theme:
d=4,o=5,b=125:1a#,1f6,8d#6,8d6,8c6,1a#6,2f6,8d#6,8d6,
8c6,1a#6,2f6,8d#6,8d6,8d#6,2c6,8f,8f,8f,2a#,2f6,8d#6,8d6,
8c6,1a#6,2f6,8d#6,8d6,8c6,1a#6,2f6,8d#6,8d6,8d#6,1c6
70 Silicon Chip
We found that the jumper wires
were a little loose in the socket, so
we plugged a 10-way header into
the socket first and then soldered
our wires to that to ensure reliable
connections.
ed the note data for the tune command
over several lines but in the Programming Editor, all note data must appear
on a single line.
Task – import a ring tone and write a
program that will play the tune when
the switch is pressed and the light level
(sensed using the LDR) is low.
Digital temperature sensor
Last month, we used the on-board
light-dependant resistor (LDR) and
some simple programs to measure
relative ambient light levels. In theory,
we could use a thermistor (temperature sensitive resistor) and a similar
scheme to measure temperature.
However, thermistors are typically
non-linear devices and our measurements would need considerable manipulation to give accurate results in
degrees Celsius. An easier way is to
use a DS18B20 digital temperature
sensor IC. These devices contain an
accurate temperature measurement
circuit, with a digital output for direct
interfacing to our PICAXE chip.
The DS18B20 sensor’s digital output connects to input 4 of the PICAXE
via the 10-way header socket (see
Fig.1). If you haven’t already installed
this header, then you should do that
next.
Rather than plugging the sensor pins
directly into the header, it is easier to
plug it into a small external breadboard.
Connections between the breadboard
and header can then be made with
solid-core wire, as depicted in the accompanying photograph and on Fig.2.
As shown, a 4.7kW resistor is also required for correct operation.
Note that as input 4 is already used by
the LDR, it must be disconnected from
siliconchip.com.au
Program Listings
Listing 1
main:
sound 2,(50,50)
sound 2,(80,50)
sound 2,(120,50)
pause 1000
goto main
Listing 2
main:
sound 2,(50,50,80,50,120,50)
pause 1000
goto main
Listing 3
main:
for b1 = 1 to 5
high 1
pause 100
low 1
pause 100
next b1
end
Listing 4
main:
for b1 = 0 to 127
sound 2,(b1,20)
next b1
for b1 = 127 to 0 step -1
sound 2,(b1,20)
next b1
goto main
Listing 5
main:
readadc 4,b1
if b1 > 80 then play_tune
goto main
play_tune:
play 0,0
goto main
Listing 6
main:
readadc 4,b1
if b1 > 80 then play_tune
goto main
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play_tune:
tune 0, 6,($AA,$85,$43,$42,$40,$8A,$C5,
$43,$42,$40,$8A,$C5,$43,$42,$43,$C0,
$65,$65,$65,$EA,$C5,$43,$42,$40,$8A,
$C5,$43,$42,$40,$8A,$C5,$43,$42,$43,$80)
goto main
P
Listing 7
main:
readtemp 4,b1
debug b1
pause 100
goto main
Listing 8
main:
readtemp 4,b1
if b1 > 25 then too_hot
if b1 < 15 then too_cold
temp_ok:
low 0
high 1
low 2
goto main
too_hot:
high 0
low 1
low 2
goto main
too_cold:
low 0
low 1
high 2
goto main
These binders will protect your
copies of S ILICON CHIP. They
feature heavy-board covers & are
made from a dis
tinctive 2-tone
green vinyl. They hold up to 14
issues & will look great on your
bookshelf.
H 80mm internal width
H SILICON CHIP logo printed in
gold-coloured lettering on spine
& cover
H Buy five and get them postage
free!
Price: $A12.95 plus $A7 p&p per
order. Available only in Aust.
Silicon Chip Publications
PO Box 139
Collaroy Beach 2097
Or fax (02) 9979 6503; or ring (02)
9979 5644 & quote your credit
card number.
Use this handy form
Enclosed is my cheque/money order for
the on-board circuits by moving position 4 of the 4-way switch (SW2) to the
“off” position (leave all other contacts
in the “on” position for now).
The program in Listing 7 is almost
the same as the LDR test program from
last month, except that we’re using
the readtemp command here instead
of readadc. The readtemp command
reads the temperature value from the
DS18B20 sensor, which is then displayed on the computer screen with
the aid of the debug command.
The final program this month (Listsiliconchip.com.au
ing 8) demonstrates how your system
can act as “cold-warm-hot” indicator,
using only the DS18B20 temperature
sensor and the three on-board LEDs.
Task – write a program that plays a musical tune when the temperature drops
below 20°C.
$________ or please debit my
Bankcard
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Card Expiry Date ____/____
Next month
Signature ________________________
Next time around, we’ll look at
controlling devices that move. Motors,
servos and solenoids are all on the
menu, so start looking through that
SC
junk box for motors to salvage!
Name ____________________________
Address__________________________
__________________ P/code_______
July 2005 71
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions from
readers are welcome and will be paid for at standard rates.
Simple infrared remote
control extender
This ultra-simple remote control
extender is ideal for use with a hidden video recorder. The recorder is
a Panasonic NV-SD200 and is used
as part of a camera surveillance system. A PICAXE-08-based circuit is
used to detect events and control the
recorder. It also flashes a LED near
the monitor to indicate the number
of events since last viewing.
Strangely, the NV-SD200 model
refused to work with a number of
commercial infrared remote control
extenders, hence the need for this
design. As a bonus, it uses less power
than a traditional extender (no plug-
packs) and the remote can still be
used in the normal manner.
As shown, an additional 5mm
infrared LED is mounted directly
in front of the equipment to be controlled. This is cabled back to a convenient location near the monitor and
terminated in a 3.5mm plug.
To modify the remote control
unit, break the circuit to the anode of the existing infrared LED
and wire in a 3.5mm headphone
socket. In most cases, the LED will
be accessible without dismantling
the circuit board. The purpose of
the socket is to allow the existing
infrared LED to operate normally
when the jack is unplugged.
If the socket won’t fit inside the
case, then a very short flying lead
with a moulded in-line socket can
be used instead. By using light-duty
figure-eight cable, the transmitting
LED could be 30m or more from the
hand-held remote control without
problems.
Ron Russo,
Kirwan, Qld.
Improved stability
for Dr Video
The Dr Video Mk 2 video stabiliser
(SILICON CHIP, June 2004) works well but
in my application, there was a problem
with the clamping level during blanking. A “kick” in the level across each
field was noticed, as well as a slight
slope under each video line.
It appeared that sampling (via IC2b)
was occurring at times in the vertical
blanking period when the black level
was not “clean”. This was fixed by adding an AND gate and op amp for signal
buffering, as shown. The extra parts
can be mounted on prototyping board
and should include a 100nF decoupling
capacitor between +5V and ground.
Any unused logic and op amp inputs
should be tied to ground.
Nick Graham,
Sydney, NSW.
72 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Clive A
is this m llan
o
winner nth’s
o
Peak At f the
las LCR
Meter
Cordless drill
auto-charger
The ridiculously low price of
battery-powered drills means that
like myself, many readers will have
been tempted to buy one or more for
the toolbox. The recently advertised
price of $17.99 for some 12V models
is less than the retail price of the
NiCd batteries alone!
A series resistor is all that’s used
to limit output current in the charger base supplied with these models.
This works OK if you remember to
turn the unit off once the batteries
are fully charged (after about five
hours) but it’s too easy to forget this
important step.
It’s possible to considerably improve the function of the charging
circuit for little cost, eliminating
the need to switch off the unit and
extending battery life. This can be
achieved by modifying the original
charger base and adding a PICAXEbased control circuit, as shown in
the above circuit diagram.
The circuit can be constructed on
a small section of prototyping board
and installed inside the charger
housing. Modifications to the existing circuit are limited to adding
a 470mF filter capacitor across the
plugpack input rails and breaking
the circuit to the negative battery
contact and the anode of the LED.
Light-duty hook-up wire is then
used to connect the two sections
together, as shown.
The PICAXE microcontroller
(IC1) controls the charging by
switching the negative side of the
battery pack with a logic-level Mosfet (Q1). It also drives the existing
“power” LED to indicate battery
status.
An analog-to-digital input (ADC1)
of the PICAXE is used to sample the
battery voltage via a resistive atten-
uator and RC filter. The result from
the readadc command allows the
program to roughly determine the
charge state of the pack. A flat battery pack results in the maximum
4-hour charge, whereas intermediate terminal voltages result in either
a 1-hour or 2-hour charge.
When a battery pack is inserted,
the LED is flashed for the number of
hours that it will be charged. Once
charging is complete, the Mosfet is
pulsed only briefly at several second
intervals and the ADC input read.
The result is used to detect
when the pack is removed, allowing the software to reset itself for the next charge cycle.
Note: due to space constraints, we’re
unable to reproduce the PICAXE
BASIC program for the charger here,
but it can be downloaded free from
www.siliconchip.com.au.
Clive Allan,
Glen Waverley, Vic.
CONTRIBUTE AND WIN!
As you can see, we pay good money for each of the “Circuit Notebook”
contributions published in SILICON CHIP. But there’s an even better
reason to send in your circuit idea: each month, the best contribution published will win a superb Peak Atlas LCR Meter valued at
$195.00. So don’t keep that brilliant circuit secret any more: sketch
it out, write a brief description and send it to SILICON CHIP and you
could be a winner!
siliconchip.com.au
July 2005 73
Circuit Notebook – Continued
RGB-to-component
video converter fix
Some set-top boxes have RGB
video outputs, whereas widescreen TVs typically have colour
difference (Y, Cr and Cb) inputs.
The “RGB-to-Component Video
Converter” (SILICON CHIP, October
2004) provides a simple solution
to this problem.
I constructed the converter from
a kit of parts but could not get it
to produce a picture on my TV.
Examination of the three colour difference signals with an oscilloscope
revealed that none had the necessary sync pulses that should occur
during the blanking intervals. This
Transistor makes
high-power zener
High-power zener diodes are
expensive and hard to find, particularly above the 10W level. In certain
applications, a power transistor can
be used as a substitute.
The base-emitter junction of an
ordinary transistor acts like a zener
diode when operated in reverse
bias. The actual breakdown voltage varies according to the type of
transistor and manufacturer.
To obtain a specific reference
voltage, a simple test circuit can
be constructed as shown in the diagram at right, using a series resistor
of about 1kW and a 15V DC supply.
Suitably rated silicon diodes can
be added in series with the “zener”
74 Silicon Chip
explained the lack of a picture, as
some sets present a blank screen if
sync is missing.
It was expected that the RGB
source would include “sync-ongreen”, which in the converter circuit would propagate through to the
Y (luminance) output for use in the
TV. Two popular set-top boxes were
tried, but neither provides the syncon-green function. However, they
do have composite video outputs.
This little add-on circuit extracts
the sync pulses from the composite
signal and adds them to the Y output to correct this deficiency.
A fourth RCA input socket can
be added to the front panel of the
converter to accept the composite
signal from the set-top box (or other
appliance). The appliance may have
a composite output in the form of a
separate RCA socket or as part of the
SCART connector. Alternatively,
the “Y” channel of a Y/C output
can be used as the source.
Referring now to the circuit,
the composite video signal is first
terminated with a 75W resistor and
excessive chroma or noise is attenuated with a simple low-pass RC
filter, formed by the 560W resistor
and 470pF capacitor. The signal is
then AC-coupled to the input of an
LM1881 sync separator IC.
The separated sync pulses appear on pin 1 of the LM1881, after
which they’re inverted by transistor
Q1. The result is injected into the
Y signal path by feeding it into the
input (pin 1) of op amp IC2a on
the converter PC board. An 8.2kW
series resistor effectively sets the
sync level at about 0.3V.
The circuit was built on a small
piece of Veroboard (approx. 20 x
40mm) and attached to a vacant area
of the PC board with double-sided
tape. The project works very well
and achieves the desired results,
improving resolution and eliminating “crawling” around the edges of
high-chroma pictures.
Graham Bowman,
Duncraig, WA.
to increase the overall breakdown
voltage, with each diode adding
about 0.7V.
A Motorola TIP31C transistor
was found to have a reverse breakdown of about 9.0V, whereas for a
Motorola 2N3055, breakdown was
somewhat higher at 11.6V.
Editors note: transistors could
conceivably make very simple,
high-power shunt references. However, unlike zener diodes, their P-N
junctions are generally not designed
to conduct current “evenly” when
in avalanche mode.
In other words, it’s impossible to
know what the maximum safe level
of reverse current would be for a
particular device.
Michael Ong,
City Beach, WA.
siliconchip.com.au
Low-voltage remote
mains switch
This circuit allows a 240V mains
appliance to be controlled remotely
via low-voltage cabling and a pushbutton switch.
The mains appliance (in this
case, a light bulb) is switched with
a suitably-rated relay. All of the
electronics is housed in an ABS box
located in proximity to the appliance. The pushbutton switch and
plugpack are located remotely and
can be wired up with 3-core alarm
cable or similar. Cable lengths of
20m or more are feasible with this
arrangement.
When the switch (S1) is pressed,
the input (pin 8) of IC1c is briefly
pulled low via the 10mF capacitor,
which is initially discharged. The
output (pin 10) immediately goes
high and this is inverted and fed
back to the second input (pin 9)
via another gate in the quad NAND
package (IC1d). In conjunction with
the 1MW resistor and 470nF capaci-
The Latest From SILICON CHIP
tor, IC1d eliminates the effects of
contact “bounce” by ensuring that
IC1c’s output remains high for a
predetermined period.
The output from IC1c drives the
clock input of a 4013 D-type flipflop (IC2). The flipflop is wired
for a “toggle” function by virtue of
the Q-bar connection back to the D
input. A 2.2MW resistor and 100nF
capacitor improve circuit noise
immunity. Each time the switch
is pressed, the flipflop output (pin
13) toggles, switching the transistor
(Q1) and relay on or off.
Note that all mains wiring must
be properly installed and completely insulated so that there is
no possibility of it contacting the
low-voltage side of the circuit.
Bob Hammond,
Engadine, NSW.
160 PAGES
23 CHAPTE
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July 2005 75
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au/
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au/
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au/
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au/
Altronics’ new 250W
Aussie-made PA Amp
A few months ago, Altronics were pretty excited about their brand new
250W PA “Redback Phase 4” mixer/amplifiers and wanted us to have a
look at one. In fact, it was so new that we had to wait some time for it . . .
W
e anxiously awaited its delivery because we always use a transformer to step up their output to a nomihad a major sporting event coming up where we nal 100V level (some older ones are 70V). This is fed into
could give it a “baptism of fire” evaluation against the lines going off to the speakers, which themselves have
another transformer to step the voltage back down again.
equipment we knew and trusted.
This results in a much lower line current to the speakAs Murphy’s law always has it, the amplifier (Altronics told us it was the first one off the production line) ers. As line losses are a square of the current times the
didn’t quite make it in time (it arrived just two days after line resistance and, by definition, long speaker lines are a
the event – of course!) so, while we were able to give it a feature of most PA installations (each with perhaps several
preliminary check-out, we couldn’t easily give it a real-life ohms resistance), this can make a very significant difference, especially at high power levels.
run until recently.
The other advantage of running “100V lines” is that all
Testing a high power PA amplifier is normally not quite
the problems of speaker impedance
as simple as testing a stereo amplifier or
matching blissfully disappear!
similar. Amplifiers are normally tested
Review by
Instead of worrying about speaker
in two parts – on-bench testing using
combinations in series and parallel to
dummy loads to see if they meet manuRoss Tester
keep to a (say) nominal 8W at the amplifacturer’s specifications, then evaluation
by ear using high performance, known speakers to see how fier, all 100V line speakers are run in parallel – all you need
do is add up the power ratings of all the speakers in the
they sound.
True PA amplifiers have an extra “wrinkle”– they’re system and ensure the total is kept at or under the power
normally designed to work into 100V (or 70V) lines. This rating of the amplifier.
So if you have a situation requiring a couple of 35W
is to minimise I2R losses over long speaker lines.
Our dummy load setup was never really intended to speakers, four more 25W speakers and eight 10W speakers, you simply run them all in parallel on your 250W
cater for 100V-line amplifier measurement.
amplifier.
100V lines
Need to add a couple more speakers to fill in some
Maybe some explanation is needed. PA Amplifiers almost “sound holes”? Most PA speakers have selectable power
AUDIO PRECISION SCTHD-W THD+N(%) vs measured
10
LEVEL(W)
20 MAR 103 06:23:28
AUDIO PRECISION SCFREQRE AMPL(dBr)
10.000
vs FREQ(Hz)
20 MAR 103 06:36:00
0.0
1
-10.00
-20.00
0.1
-30.00
-40.00
0.010
-50.00
1
10
100
500
Power output into a 4W load. It didn’t quite make the 250W
mark but the difference is too small to be noticed.
80 Silicon Chip
10
100
1k
10k
50k
Claimed frequency response is 50Hz-12kHz (-3dB) and this
test shows that’s just about spot on!
siliconchip.com.au
The front of the amplifier has a clean, uncluttered layout –
though we did find the “up and down” positioning of the level controls took a bit of getting
used to (we’re more used to a straight horizontal layout as per a multi-channel mixer). The LED indicators,
bargraph included, all make life easy when you’re busy programming an event!
tappings so if you need to, you can reduce the power of But that’s something you could get used to.
one or several speakers as required to keep that total under
On the right side of the front panel are several LED
the 250W figure.
indicators, used to show an input signal, signal overload,
Having said all that, the new Altronic Redback Phase4 signal peak, excess temperature and power. There’s also a
PA amplifier can be run into 100V, 70V or low impedance LED bargraph VU meter showing program level from -24dB
(4-16W) loads. So it is one very flexible
through 0dB to +3dB, the final LEDs
amplifier. Note that we said “or” – you
being yellow and red respectively to
cannot run combinations of loads (eg
show overload.
Power output: . . . . . . . . . . . . 250W RMS
100V and 8W) at the same time.
A whopping big power switch and
So it turns out we could check the Distortion: . . . . . . . . . . . . <0.5% <at> 1kHz Redback/Phase4 logo round out the
amplifier using our bench testing setup Speaker output: . 70V, 100V or 4 - 16W centre of the front panel, with airflow
and the low impedance outputs. But in- Line output: . . . . . . 600W balanced, 0dBV slots on the left and right sides and of
the-field testing would have to wait until Frequency response:
course the rack-mounting flanges with
Mic inputs: . . . . . . 50Hz -12kHz, -3dB their handles.
another opportunity arose where a 100V
Aux inputs: . . . . . . 50Hz -15kHz, -3dB
line system was in use.
Just try picking the amplifier up
Recently, that opportunity did arise – Input Sensitivity:
from the horizontal using the hanMic inputs: . . . . . . . . . . 3mV balanced dles . . . if you can, you’re a stronger
and this is the result!
Aux inputs: . . . . . . . . . . 100mV & 1V man than I, Gunga Din! (with humble
Appearance
Signal to noise ratio (limiting bypassed):
apologies to Rudyard Kipling).
Mic inputs: . . >75dB below rated output
The Redback Phase4 250W PA AmpliAux inputs: . . >81dB below rated output The back panel
fier is housed in a black, 2U rack-mounting
cases. Overall dimensions are 483w x Tone controls:
Here’s where all of the inputs and
Bass: . . . . . . . . . . . . . ±10dB <at> 100Hz outputs are located along with con330d x 88h and it weighs in at a fairly
Treble: . . . . . . . . . . . . . ±10dB <at> 10kHz trols to set the amplifier up the way
hefty 19.5kg. Having two big transformers
(a power transformer and 100/70V line
you want it.
output transformer), at least partly explains this.
Each of the input channels can be configured for microLevel controls for the six inputs, a master level control phone (3-pin XLR) or line (2x RCA) via its own 4-way DIP
and separate bass/treble controls are all on the left side of switch. The other switches in the DIP set select line input
the front panel. While clearly labelled, we found the verti- sensitivity (100mV or 1V), VOX priority (for inputs 1-3)
cal arrangement of controls at least somewhat confusing, and whether phantom power is on or off.
being used to channel-1 to channel-x arranged left to right.
As the above implies, with an optional board, channels
Specifications
Here’s the business end of the amplifier – the inputs and outputs. Each of the DIP switches change various input functions.
They’re a tad tiny for fat fingers but most users would set them once and forget them. At lower left are the three different
outputs (100V, 70V and low impedance); above that connections for remote volume control, PTT and switched 24V DC.
siliconchip.com.au
July 2005 81
Inside the beast, looking from back to front. Dominant
are the power (left) and output (centre) transformers.
Interestingly, the output transformer is not a toroidal type.
The fan-cooled heatsink is clearly visible at the right of this
photo.
1-3 can also operate in VOX mode (voice operated switch),
meaning that the amplifier outputs when there is an input
signal. Another option is an internal alert/evacuation
tone/siren board, which when activated takes priority for
emergency use.
To be picky, I found the dip switches fiddly with my fat
fingers but this is hardly a criticism of note because in most
installations, the amplifier would be “set and forget”. It’s
only people like me who want to move an amplifier between
various events who might find this a problem.
Also on the back panel are the output terminals: 100V
line, 70V line and low impedance (4-16W), all screw terminals protected by a clip-on plastic cover which I proceeded
to lose within a few minutes (sorry, Mr Altronics).
As well as another XLR connector offering preamp output
there is also a pre-out/main-in provision so you can add
effects if you wish. Another DIP switch allows the preamp
output to be pre- or post- the master volume control. A pair
of RCA terminals also gives a tape output.
The amplifier is normally powered from the mains (via
an IEC cable, supplied) but can be powered from 24V DC
when in a portable situation, or an emergency application
if the mains fails. There is even inbuilt provision for keeping a 24V battery trickle charged (300mA).
Finally, one other handy option is provision for a remote
volume control – a standard 500W pot can be wired into the
system via ordinary figure-8 (ie, unshielded) cable to give
volume control up to 100m away from the amplifier. A pair
of screw terminals on the back make this simple.
anyone on the northern beaches who wondered where that
very loud Beach Boys music was coming from on the long
weekend, sorry . . .)
This amplifier compared more than favourably with another 250W brand I regularly use. Distortion, by the way, is
quoted at <0.5% <at> 1kHz – that’s pretty good for a PA amp.
. . actually it’s very good!
I have collected quite a variety of microphones over the
years – some good, some oh well and as you might imagine they have sensitivities all over the place. However, all
performed as expected on the microphone inputs (3mV
sensitivity). The better microphones sounded very good
indeed.
Signal to noise ratio is better than 75dB below rated
output on microphone and 81dB on line inputs.
Using PA horns it was difficult to judge the adequacy of
the bass control – no matter how much boost you apply you
cannot get much bass out of those babies – but the treble
control certainly showed there was plenty of boost and cut
available. Claimed control for both is ±10dB.
By the way, this was never intended to be a hifi amplifier – it is a PA amplifier. So the frequency response of
50Hz-12kHz (-3dB) might not appear to be too spectacular
in these days of DC to daylight – but for its intended use,
it’s more than adequate.
In fact, too low a frequency response in a PA amp is
an invitation for hum and other noises to rear their ugly
heads.
There are several levels of protection built in. First
of all there is automatic output limiting, preventing the
voltage exceeding 110V at any time to prevent damage
to speakers.
There is also overload protection, reducing the output
current (instead of blowing a fuse, which my other amplifiers tend to do – always at the worst possible moment). A
front panel LED flashes to warn of the problem.
There is of course fuse protection on both the AC and DC
circuits but these are a “worst case” scenario, protecting
the amplifier when the other methods have failed.
The amplifier is also fan-cooled, the fans automatically
switching in as required.
Price, availability
The Redback Phase4 250W PA Amplifier (Cat A4085) is
available from Altronic Distributors, 174 Roe Street Perth
WA 6000 (PO Box 8350 Perth Business Centre WA 6849).
Phone (08) 9428 2188.
It has a recommended retail price of $1065, which compares well to imported amplifiers of similar capability.
There is a 125W version available (Cat A4075) which
sells for $875. It looks pretty much identical but is about
5kg lighter. The warranty on both systems was five years
but in the last few days has been increased to a whopping
ten years. We’ve never heard of anything better!
In use
Recommended?
I tested the amplifier using both microphone and line
level inputs, the latter with a variety of program material
ranging from tape and CD players through to a portable
MP3 player. I also tested both 100V line and low impedance outputs.
I was very impressed with the “crispness” of the output,
even when the wick was well and truly wound up. (To
Now we know what Altronics were getting excited about!
If you need a high power PA you’d go a long way to better
this one.
Most users would rate our few criticisms as nit-picking;
it performed flawlessy and did everything we asked of it.
The fact that it is designed and assembled in Australia
is a bonus!
SC
82 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
July 2005 83
Pt.2: By ED SCHOELL*
Managing Director, JED Microprocessors
Pty Ltd.
Assembling and programming the
AVR200 Single
Board Computer
Last month, we published the circuit details
for JED Micro’s new low-cost ATmega32
development board and described the
various I/O options. This month, we show
you how to assemble it and go on to describe
several popular software development and
programming options.
A
SSEMBLY OF THE AVR200 is
quite straightforward as the PC
board is a plated-through, doublesided design with solder resist on both
sides. To reduce component count and
simplify construction, most resistors
are contained in single-in-line (SIL)
arrays.
84 Silicon Chip
In its standard configuration, the
board provides eight analog inputs
or digital inputs/outputs, 11 digital
inputs and nine Mosfet outputs. Also
included are a real-time clock, buffered I2C port and RS232 serial port.
If the standard port I/O arrangements
are not suitable for your application,
then most port lines can be swapped
from inputs to outputs or vice versa
with only minor component changes.
It is therefore important to examine the
various options carefully before starting assembly, to ensure that the correct
parts are installed from the outset.
We covered the various options in
detail last month. In summary, the kit
contains all of the components needed
to configure all available port lines (28)
as inputs, if desired. Eight of these can
be either analog or digital inputs, with
the remainder being digital only.
Note that the remaining four port
bits of the ATmega32 are dedicated to
the I2C and RS232 serial interfaces.
Conversely, if more than the standard nine port lines are required as outputs, then up to 12 additional Mosfets
can be installed for a full complement
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.5: use this diagram
as an aid when
assembling your board.
Socket strips are needed
for resistor packs RP2RP7, with all others
being soldered directly
into the board. Of the
six packs, only RP5 &
RP6 are installed in the
standard configuration
shown here. To install
optional items, follow
the silkscreen overlay
printed on the board
and the instructions in
the text.
of 21 outputs (still giving seven digital inputs). The extra Mosfets are not
included in the basic kit but can be
ordered separately from JED.
Preliminaries
To help make construction easier,
we’ve organised our description into
logical steps, first assembling the
components common to all configurations. We then separately describe the
assembly of the components needed
for each port (A-D) in turn, with the
standard configuration shown first and
the optional configuration (if any) immediately after.
We recommend that you map out
your desired I/O port configurations,
including requirements for any additional features (eg, RS485 port and
high-resolution voltage reference) and
read the entire assembly instructions
before commencing construction.
Power supply
The power supply section should
be assembled and tested first. Begin
by installing the LM2940T voltage
regulator (U3). It mounts horizontally
on the board, so first bend its leads at
siliconchip.com.au
90° about 6mm from the body and trial
fit it into position to ensure that the
hole in the tab lines up with the large
hole in the PC board. Adjust the lead
bend as necessary, then position the
TO-220 heatsink between the regulator and the PC board (see photos).
Finally, fasten the assembly in place
using an M3 screw, nut & flat washer
before soldering and trimming the
regulator’s leads.
All other components related to
the 5V power supply should now be
installed. These are the 2-way terminal
block (J1), DSS706 filters (LC1, LC4LC8), all 100nF monolithic capacitors
and the four 33mF tantalum capacitors. Note that the positive leads of
the tantalum capacitors must go in as
indicated on the overlay diagram, otherwise they’ll be destroyed in a flash at
power on! The power indicator circuit,
consisting of the LED and 1kW resistor
(R7), can also go in now.
Now connect a 6-18V DC power
source to the input terminals on J1
(note polarity) and power up. Check
for correct operation of the power supply by measuring the voltage between
the ground and output terminals of
the regulator (U3). You should get a
reading of between 4.75V and 5.25V.
Note also that the LED power indicator
should light.
Common assembly
Rather than a conventional 40-pin
socket, the ATmega32 (U2) is mounted
in two 20-pin socket strips. As with all
other headers and socket strips used in
this project, these must be cut down
from the longer sections supplied in the
kit. This is done using a sharp utility
knife or a pair of side-cutters.
When installing the socket strips,
make sure that they’re seated all the
way down on the PC board and at right
angles to it before soldering. Once that’s
done, install all of the components that
go underneath the microcontroller.
This includes the TL7726 hex clamp
ICs (U5 & U6), the real-time clock
IC (U7), 32kHz crystal (X2) and
100mH inductors (L1 & L2).
As usual, take care with the orientation of the ICs and zener diodes. Note
that U5, U6 & U7 must be soldered
directly into the board. Don’t use IC
sockets, because it will not be possible
to fully insert U2 later on.
July 2005 85
Fig.6: both “common”
and “series” single-in-line
resistor packs are used in
this project. Here’s how
they’re wired internally.
As you can see, orientation
is important with the pullup/pull-down type, with
pin 1 being the common
connection point for the
resistor array.
Next, install reset switch SW1, the
DS1233 reset IC (U1), the 3.6864MHz
crystal (X1) and the 27pF capacitors.
The crystal is supplied with an insulating washer that fits over its leads to
isolate the underside of the package
from the PC board. Make sure that this
is in place during installation.
Note also that the “arrow” on the
top of the reset switch should point
towards the “RESET” marking on the
overlay.
To complete the common part of the
assembly, install all of the connectors
and headers, including the screwterminal blocks (J2-J5 & J9-J12), the D9
connector (J8), I2C headers (J6 & J14),
SPI header (J13), and links L13-L18,
with attention to the following:
Before installing J13, cut pins 7-10
off flush with the plastic carrier using side-cutters or pull them out with
a pair of pliers (see Fig.5). Note that
J13, J14, L13 and L14 are cut down
from longer dual-row header strips,
whereas links L15-L18 are cut down
from single-row strips.
Port A – analog/digital inputs (standard): install eight 7-pin socket strips
in locations L4-L11. Again, these are
cut down from the longer strips supplied in the kit.
Various components are plugged
into the strips to perform basic signal
conditioning functions ahead of the
port inputs, as described in Pt.1.
86 Silicon Chip
At a minimum, each input should
have a series resistor (see Fig.4a) to
protect the microcontroller (in conjunction with the TL7726 voltage
clamps). Eight 10kW resistors are
provided in the kit for this purpose.
Port A – digital outputs (optional):
the socket strips (L4-L11) are also
installed if you wish to use port A as
low-current digital outputs. In this
case, a small resistor (about 100W)
should be inserted in series with each
output (see Fig.4a).
The socket strips must not be installed if you want to use port A as
high-current Mosfet outputs. Instead,
the Mosfets and their 10kW gate pulldown resistors (Rpd) are soldered
directly into the PC board in place of
the socket strips (see Fig.4f).
Note that the Mosfets are not supplied in the kit but can be ordered
separately from JED, part number
MTD3055VL.
Important: while it is possible to mix
digital inputs and outputs on port A,
it is not recommended to mix analog
inputs and digital outputs, as noise
from the outputs may cause inaccuracies in analog readings.
Analog reference (standard): if
the +5V (Vcc) supply is to be used as
a voltage reference, link L3 must be
shorted by “blobbing” it with solder.
Conversely, if the internal +2.56V
band-gap reference is to be used, the
link is simply left open and the selection is made under program control.
Precision analog reference (optional): parts for the 4.096V precision reference are optional and can
be purchased separately from JED as
part number AVR200-REFK. Included
in the option pack are a MAX874CPA
voltage reference IC (U4), 2.2MW and
3.3MW resistors (R1 & R2), 1MW trimpot (VR1), 47nF capacitor (C14) and
4.7mF tantalum capacitor (C15). After
installing all of these parts, the output
from U4 (pin 6) must be trimmed to
precisely 4.096V by adjusting VR1.
Port B – digital inputs (standard):
to configure port B for all digital inputs, first install 6-pin socket strips in
positions RP5 & RP6. A 4.7kW, 5-pin
common resistor pack can then be
plugged into each of the sockets. As
described last month, one end of the
socket strip is connected to +5V (pin
6) and the other to ground (pin 1). This
means that the resistor packs can be
used to perform a pull-up or pull-down
function simply by orienting them
correctly in the socket strips.
Next, install 4.7kW 8-pin series resistor packs in locations RP7 & RP15,
and six 4.7V zener diodes in locations
Z6-Z9. Make sure that you have the
banded (cathode) end of the zeners
around the right way. Leave location
RP1 empty, as it’s only required when
using port B for high-current outputs,
as described below.
Port B – digital outputs (optional):
the upper (PB4-PB7) and/or lower
(PB0-PB3) bits of port B can be used as
low-current digital outputs, if desired.
For example, to use the upper lines as
outputs, leave out RP6 and install four
low-value series resistors (about 100W)
in place of RP7. A similar scheme can
be applied to the lower lines.
Provision has also been made to
use the lower four lines (PB0-PB3) as
high-current outputs, if desired. To do
this, leave out RP5 & RP15 and install
MTD3055VL Mosfets in locations
F1-F4. These devices are available
separately from JED. A 4.7kW, 5-pin
common resistor pack must also be
installed in the RP1 position.
Naturally, if you decide to expand
“upstairs” via J13, then many of these
port bits will not be available for general-purpose use on the screw-terminal
blocks (J11 & J12). This means that you
may be able to leave out some or all of
the resistor packs mentioned above.
Port C – TWI (I2C) port: the lower
siliconchip.com.au
two bits (PC0 & PC1) of port C are used
for the I2C port. By default, the I2C port
is “buffered”, so links L24 & L25 (beneath U11) must remain open. Install
the 82B715 buffer (U11), the 1.5kW and
330W pull-up resistors (R3, R4, R9 &
R10), and the two 10W series resistors
(R11 & R12). The two 4.7V zener diodes
(Z1 & Z2) that protect the micro’s inputs
should also be installed.
If you want to connect non-buffered
I2C devices, do not install U11, R9 &
R10 but do install the two series resistors (R11 & R12). Note, however, that
these must be 100W rather than the 10W
values shown on the diagrams. In addition, links L24 & L25 must be shorted
by bridging them with solder.
Port C – digital outputs (standard):
in the standard build, the upper six
bits (PC2-PC7) of port C drive power
Mosfets to provide high-current opendrain outputs. All that needs to be
installed here are the Mosfets (F5-F10)
and the two 4.7kW, 6-pin series resistor
packs in locations RP8 & RP9. Locations RP2, RP3, RP13 & RP14 remain
empty.
If desired, all of these bits may also
function as low-current digital outputs.
In this case, omit all the Mosfets and
resistor packs mentioned above and
install low-value series resistors (about
100W) in place of RP13 & RP14.
Port C – digital inputs (optional):
to use PC2-PC7 as digital inputs, do
not install the Mosfets or RP8 & RP9.
Instead, install two 5-pin socket strips
in locations RP2 & RP3. That done,
4.7kW 4-pin common resistor packs
can be plugged into these sockets to
perform pull-up or pull-down functions, as described earlier.
Next, install six zener diodes (Z10Z15) in locations RP8 & RP9. These
do not appear on the circuit or overlay
diagrams, but are simply soldered
vertically into the holes left vacant by
the two resistor packs. Check that you
have the zeners around the right way;
the anode ends connect to the ground
plane on the topside of the PC board.
Par t s Lis t for AVR200 (Standard Build)
1 AVR200 PC board
6 DSS706 EMI suppression
filters (LC1, LC4 – LC8)
1 3.6864MHz crystal (HC49U
package) (X1)
1 32.768kHz miniature watch
crystal (X2)
1 BR1225/1VC 3V lithium cell
(BATT1)
2 100mH miniature axial inductor
(L1, L2)
1 sub-miniature slide switch (SW1)
1 10-way 2.54mm pitch DIL
boxed header (J6)
1 9-way right-angle female ‘D’
connector (J8)
1 6-way 3.81mm pitch screwterminal block (J3)
3 5-way 3.81mm pitch screwterminal block (J2, J11, J12)
4 4-way 3.81mm pitch screwterminal block (J4, J5, J9, J10)
1 2-way 3.81mm pitch screwterminal block (J1)
2.54mm pitch SIL header strips
(see text)
2.54mm pitch DIL header strips
(see text)
2.54mm pitch SIL socket strips
(see text)
1 M3 x 6mm screw, nut &
washer
1 TO-220 heatsink
1 LM2940T-5.0 low-dropout +5V
regulator (U3)
2 TL7726 hex voltage clamping
IC (U5, U6)
1 DS1307 real-time clock IC (U7)
1 MAX202E RS232 transceiver
IC (U8)
1 P82B715 bi-directional I2C bus
buffer IC (U11)
9 MTD3055VL logic-level
Mosfets (F5 –F13)
18 4.7V 0.5W zener diodes
(Z1-Z18)
1 3mm red LED (LED1)
Capacitors
4 22mF 10V tantalum (C9-C11,
C16)
8 100nF 50V monolithic ceramic
(C1-C8)
2 27pF ceramic disc (C12,C13)
Resistors (0.4W, 1%)
8 10kW (see text)
2 1.5kW (R3, R4)
1 1kW (R7)
2 330W (R9, R10)
2 10W (R11, R12)
Resistor packs
3 4.7kW 4-pin common resistors
(RP2-RP4)
3 4.7kW 5-pin common resistors
(RP1, RP5 & RP6)
6 4.7kW 6-pin series resistors
(RP8-RP14, RP16)
2 4.7kW 8-pin series resistors
(RP7, RP15)
Semiconductors
1 DS1233 5V reset IC (U1)
1 ATmega32-16P microcontroller
(U2)
Finally, install 4.7kW 6-pin series
resistor packs in locations RP13 &
RP14.
Port D - RS232 (standard): the lower
two bits of port D (PD0 & PD1) are reserved for use as the transmit/receive
data lines for the serial port. To build
the standard RS232 serial interface,
install the MAX202 (U8) first, followed
by the five 100nF capacitors (C4-C8) if
not already in place. Links L20 & L21
should also be shorted by bridging
them with solder.
In its most basic configuration, the
RS232 port does not provide hardware
handshaking; the RTS/CTS lines are
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
o
o
o
o
o
o
siliconchip.com.au
No.
8
2
1
2
2
Value
10kW
1.5kW
1kW
330W
10W
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black orange brown
brown green red brown
brown black red brown
orange orange brown brown
brown black black brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black red brown
brown green black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
orange orange black black brown
brown black black gold brown
July 2005 87
Setting The RS232
Port Mode
Fig.7: links L13 & L14 are used
to set the RS232 port mode. The
default configuration is “DCE”
with no handshaking, as it allows
connection to a PC and use of the
MegaLoad software programmer.
simply looped back on the D-9 connector by installing a jumper on L14
(the “no handshake” setting in Fig.7).
However, provision has been made for
hardware handshaking using port bits
PD7 & PD6. This feature is enabled by
shorting L22 and installing a jumper
on L17 pins 2-3.
As described last month, the
RS232 port can be set for either DTE
or DCE modes. The required mode
is selected via links L13 & L14, as
shown in Fig.7.
Port D – three inputs & outputs
(standard): of the remaining six bits of
port D, three are normally configured
as outputs (PD4, PD5 & PD7) and three
as digital inputs (PD2, PD3 & PD6).
To use PD4, PD5 & PD7 as high-current outputs, install Mosfets F11-F13
and a 4.7kW 6-pin series resistor pack
in location RP10. In this case, locations
RP4 & RP16 remain empty.
If desired, all of these bits may
also function as low-current digital
outputs. To do this, simply omit the
Mosfets and resistor pack (RP10) and
install low-value series resistors (about
100W) in the RP16 location.
To configure bits PD2, PD3 & PD6
as inputs, install 4.7kW 6-pin series
resistor packs in locations RP11 &
RP12 and three 4.7V zener diodes in
at locations Z3-Z5. Links L15 & L16
allow PD2 & PD3 to be connected to
either the screw-terminal block (J9) or
the I2C headers (J6 & J14). In addition,
link L18 allows the PD6 input to be
pulled up or pulled down.
88 Silicon Chip
Note that PD6 & PD7 can be redirected to the RS232 port (via links
L17 & L22) in support of hardware
handshaking, which would make them
unavailable for general-purpose use.
Port D – swapping inputs & outputs
(optional): as with all the generalpurpose I/O ports described thus far,
the standard roles of the six port D bits
are easily reversed if more inputs or
outputs are needed in a particular application. This is achieved in a similar
manner to that already described for
ports B & C. However, we’ve covered
it again here to avoid confusion.
To configure bits PD4, PD5 & PD7 as
digital inputs, omit the three Mosfets
(F11-F13) and install a 4.7kW 6-pin
series resistor pack in location RP16.
Also, leave out RP10 and install three
4.7V zener diodes (Z16-Z18) to protect
the micro’s inputs. Again, these do
not appear on the circuit or overlay
diagrams but are simply soldered
vertically into the holes left vacant
by RP10.
Check that you have the zener
diodes around the right way; the anode
ends connect to the ground plane on
the top side of the PC board.
Next, fit a 5-pin socket strip in location RP4 and plug in a 4.7kW 4-pin
common resistor pack. The “common” pin of the resistor pack (pin 1)
goes to the grounded end (pin 1) of the
socket to pull down the three inputs
or to the Vcc end (pin 5) to pull them
up to +5V.
Finally, to configure bits PD2, PD3
& PD6 as low-current outputs, leave
out RP12 and install three low-value
series resistors (about 100W) in place
or RP11.
Port D – RS485 (optional): as men-
Where To Buy A Kit
Kits and options for this project are
available from JED Microprocessors Pty Ltd. A complete price list
and order form can be downloaded
from www.jedmicro.com.au/
avr200.htm, phone (03) 9762 3588
or email jed<at>jedmicro.com.au
AVR200 kit .............................. $99
AVR200 assembled & tested
(standard options) ................ $185
Atmel AVR-ISP ....................... $66
Note: all prices include 10% GST.
tioned last month, the AVR200 includes support for an RS485/TTL
serial port. Parts for this option are
available separately from JED (part no.
AVR200-RS485K). We do not describe
the RS485/TTL serial port here but
complete details on installing it will
be included on the CDs with the kits
and on the JED website.
Note also that “revision 0” of the
AVR200 board does not support this
option, so be sure to mention your
requirements when ordering.
Finally, those with specific cabling
requirements will be pleased to know
that there are additional rows of pads
at the I/O connector mounting positions to allow for machine or crimpedon plug-in connectors. Again, contact
JED with your specific requirements.
By now, you should have a fully
assembled board, so let’s move on
and look briefly at what’s available for
application development. We’ll also
check out a couple of popular choices
for getting your completed code into
memory.
Software development options
We’ve already mentioned that Atmel’s AVR architecture was designed
from efficient execution of compiled
code. Development packages that
allow you to make the most of this
advantage are readily available. Atmel
recommend a long list of third-party
programming packages in their “AVR
8-Bit RISC Third Party Support”
document, available from www.atmel.
com. Supported languages include C,
BASIC, Pascal, Forth and Java.
Apart from the Atmel website,
another useful resource for AVR programmers is the very active AVR user’s
group at www.avrfreaks.net. You’ll
find an even longer list of compilers,
assemblers and other goodies in the
“Tools” section of their site.
JED Micro use and support several lower-cost development options.
Check out their AVR200 page at www.
jedmicro.com.au/avr200.htm for all
the details.
Free assembler & C compiler
For those that need to program
AVR micros at the grass roots level,
a complete assembler, simulator and
debugger is included in the “AVR Studio” software package. The package
boasts an integrated development environment (IDE) that allows third-part
compliers to be plugged-in as needed.
siliconchip.com.au
AVR Studio is free and it’s included
on the Atmel CD that ships with the
AVR200 kit and can be downloaded
from www.atmel.com.
For the beginner and hobbyist interested in embedded C programming,
the free WinAVR GCC compiler offers
an excellent, all-round development
suite. It has I/O port support, extensive
help and embedded support functions
for things like delays, EEPROM access,
WDT and CRC. It can also produce a
debug file for AVR Studio, thus allowing use of the simulation and debugging facilities.
Although WinAVR doesn’t include
a full IDE like many commercial packages, the “Programmers Notepad” editor can run a “Make” file to automate
the whole code generation process. A
sample “Make” file is included on the
CD with the kit to help first-time users
get up and running. WinAVR can be
downloaded from winavr.sourceforge.
net or check out the links on JED’s
website.
CodeVisionAVR C Compiler
Although at the lower-priced end of
the commercial range, CodeVisionAVR
from HP Infotech offers ample features
and includes a full IDE, including
debugger, programmer and terminal.
It has library function support for
EEPROM access, Dallas 1-Wire, I2C,
BCD/Gray code conversion, LCD support, SPI, the Dallas real-time clock
and more.
Perhaps one of CodeVisionAVR’s
best features is the automatic code
wizard generator that removes the
tedious aspect of setting up your initial
register conditions. You can examine all of the other features at www.
hpinfotech.ro and browse the on-line
user group site at groups.yahoo.com/
group/codevisionav
BASIC Compiler
If you need results in a hurry and
your C skills are a little rusty, then
BASIC compilers are worth a look.
MCS Electronics offers a powerful
commercial compiler for the AVR
series. The package, called “BASCOMAVR”, includes a full IDE, including
debugger, programmer, simulator and
terminal, as well as comprehensive
documentation.
BASCOM-AVR produces fast machine code, not interpreted code like
some other products. It includes library support for EEPROM access, Dalsiliconchip.com.au
Fig.8: MegaLoad is
an easy way to get
your code into the
ATmega32 and it’s
free! If you request
this option when
ordering the AVR200,
JED will install the
necessary bootloader
code into the top
of the micro’s code
memory.
las 1-Wire, I2C, LCD, SPI and real-time
clock. As a bonus, statements are 99%
compatible with Microsoft’s QBASIC.
View the product details or download
a free demo version at www.mcselec.
com. You’ll find an on-line user group
at www.grote.net/bascom
Readers interested in purchasing
the above products will find links
to the appropriate sites from JED’s
AVR200 page at www.jedmicro.com.
au/avr200.htm
Programming the micro
JED is offering two options for getting your programs into the ATmega32
micro. The first of these requires an
additional piece of hardware called
the AVR-ISP programmer. This device plugs into your PC’s serial port
as well as the 6-pin section of J13 on
the AVR200 board. It accepts the hex
or binary file output from your assembler or compiler and programs it into
the micro’s Flash (program) and/or
EPROM (data) memory and sets option
fuses all in one operation.
The AVR-ISP is supported by AVR
Studio and most third-party development tools. However, for those
that don’t need to fiddle with the
ATmega32’s fuses, the “MegaLoad”
bootloader and companion Windows
application are a much cheaper option.
MegaLoad can be supplied free with
your AVR200 kit; all you need to do is
tick the right box on your order form.
JED will then pre-install it in the top
part of the micro’s memory (3C00H)
before despatch.
To program the micro using MegaLoad, launch the MegaLoad Windows
application (supplied on CD) on your
PC, connect the AVR200 to the PC serial port and toggle the Reset switch on
the AVR200 board. The program code
is then transferred over the serial link
at 115k bits/second, with no external
hardware needed.
Wrap up
JED Micro are supplying two CDs
with all AVR200 boards. One includes
all AVR200 circuits, layouts, assembly
instructions, a test program with instructions and sample code snippets
written in BASCOM Basic and CodeVision C. Also included are MegaLoad
and a sample setup and Makefile for
WinAVR.
The second disk is supplied by
Atmel. It contains their complete
“Software and Technical Library”,
including the AVR Studio software
suite, product datasheets, application
notes, user guides and source code
examples, etc.
Now all of that should keep you
SC
busy for quite some time!
July 2005 89
Vintage Radio
By RODNEY CHAMPNESS, VK3UG
The 1951 AWA Radiola 433MCZ
4-valve battery receiver
Battery receivers of various sorts were
always around during the era that valve
radios were king. One such set was the AWA
Radiola 433MCZ which was designed for use
in rural areas that lacked mains power.
Early battery-powered valve sets
were based on valves such as the
ubiquitous 201, which had a filament
requirement of 1A at 5V. By contrast,
some of later “battery type” valves
required just 25mA at 1.4V to heat
them.
In addition, the HT (high-tension)
voltage required by the early valves
used in battery sets varied from 60V up
to about 180V, with valves such as the
1L5G being rated at 180V maximum. In
practice though, the 1L5G was usually
run with 135V on the plate.
The later “battery-type” valves operated at much lower voltages. They
were generally rated at 90V on the
plate but were often run at 67.5V.
However, there were valves that
operated with even less voltage and
current on the filaments, such as
hearing-aid valves. In fact, the latter typically ran with about 22.5V
on the valve plates. It’s also worth
noting that the space charge tetrodes
developed in the 1920s and 1960s ran
with plate voltages from around 2V to
about 20V.
We didn’t see many very low-current valves in Australia and the most
common valve line-up in a battery
receiver at the end of the valve era was
as follows: 1T4 radio frequency (RF)
amplifier, 1R5 frequency converter,
1T4 intermediate frequency (IF) amplifier, 1S5 detector and first audio stage
and 3V4 audio output stage.
These valves all drew 50mA of
filament current at 1.4V, with the
exception of the 3V4 which drew either 100mA at 1.4V or 50mA at 2.8V,
depending on how the filament was
wired. The high voltage (HT) was usually 90V DC.
Design compromises
This view shows the fully-restored receiver. It turned out to be quite a reasonable performer, especially after it had been aligned correctly.
90 Silicon Chip
Achieving low power consumption
on both the filament and HT lines
meant making compromises in the
way these valves operated.
First, because of the low filament
drain, the filaments were both mechanically and electrically fragile.
In fact, tapping the side of an audio
valve with a finger would generally
produce an audible “ting” in the output – ie, these valves were noticeably
microphonic.
It also meant that they could not
tolerate an “over-voltage” condition
on the filaments. If the HT was mistakenly connected to the filaments, for
example, you could be certain that a
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Fig.1: the AWA Radiola 433MCZ is a
conventional superhet set with four
valves.
new set of valves would be required
for the set. Even a 10% over-voltage
condition was a recipe for shortened
valve life.
Second, the emission life of these
valves is limited compared to the
more familiar indirectly-heated types.
siliconchip.com.au
However, the HT voltage wasn’t as
critical as the low tension (LT) voltage
and voltages that were higher than
specified could be used with increased
biasing (but at the expense of shorter
valve life).
It’s interesting to note that the HT
voltages used by Alf Traeger in his
pedal radio transmitters (SILICON CHIP,
January 2005) exceeded the valve ratings, with the result that valve life was
considerably shorter than normal.
The quest for reduced power consumption also meant that the gain
per stage was lower than in a mainspowered receiver during the later years
of the valve era. This meant that a
5-valve dry battery receiver (using 1T4,
1R5, 1T4, 1S5 and 3V4 valves) had the
same general performance (except for
total audio output) as a 5-valve mainsJuly 2005 91
a vibrator power pack as well.
In practice, the receiver was made
to operate as a battery-powered set
simply by fitting a particular power
lead. Conversely, for vibrator use, it
was supplied with a vibrator pack
and a power lead that fitted on the
righthand end of the chassis, as
viewed from the rear. The wiring of
the power supply plugs altered the
filament wiring to suit the particular
power source.
It was quite a nifty idea and was
used in a number of AWA batteryoperated valve receivers.
Circuit details
The old Radiola 433MCZ was in relatively good condition, although there was
some corrosion on the chassis due to leakage from the dial-lamp battery.
operated set which used one valve as
a rectifier.
However, the deficiencies of batterytype valves were more than made up
for by their economy of operation. This
meant they could be used in remote
areas, well away from 240V mains
and 32V home-lighting plants. Many
remote high-frequency (HF) monitoring receivers, as used by the Royal
Flying Doctor Service, the fishing fleet
and bushfire brigade bases, also used
these valves to great effect.
The 433MCZ power supply
The AWA 433MCZ looks a bit like
an oversized Astor Football. It is a
4-valve dry battery receiver but like
many other AWA battery receivers of
the era (1951), it could be powered by
Fig.1 shows the circuit details
of the AWA Radiola 433MC. The
input to the receiver is conventional, with a tuned circuit
feeding the 1R5 frequency
converter stage. In addition,
a 455kHz IF trap was also included across the input (L1 &
C1) to reduce breakthrough from
marine radio stations operating on
frequencies close to the IF (this was a
common addition to the front end of
many receivers of the era).
The second stage is based on a 1T4
and this is wired as a neutralised IF
amplifier. Note that only one extra
component is required for neutralising and this is capacitor C14 (4pF).
Neutralising was commonly used on
triode RF/IF amplifiers but not as often on tetrode and pentode amplifier
stages, due to their inherent greater
stability.
The 1S5 has only one diode and this
is used both as a detector and for simple automatic gain (volume) control
(AGC). This AGC is applied to both the
1R5 and the 1T4. In addition, the 1S5
has a pentode section which is used as
the first audio stage. This then feeds a
3V4 audio output stage.
The audio output is a modest
250mW and drives a 150mm (6-inch)
loudspeaker. The resulting audio is
sufficient in volume for normal listening but it’s certainly no match for
today’s ghetto blasters
Cleaning the set
This front view of the chassis shows the dial-drive arrangement. Note the
foam rubber surrounds.
92 Silicon Chip
The set itself was quite dusty, having been stored for many years in a
relatively dry environment. There
was some evidence that a mouse had
been in the set but after a short stay,
it must have decided that there were
better lodgings elsewhere.
siliconchip.com.au
The set was generally in quite good
condition. However, the 3V battery
used for the dial lights had corroded
through its case and spilled electrolyte
onto the chassis. As might be expected,
this caused some rusting and general
corrosion of the steel plating in the area
affected by the spill (see photo).
After cleaning up this corrosion,
the cabinet and the chassis itself
were dusted using a brush and then
the valves, cabinet and knobs were
washed with soapy water. These parts
were then rinsed in clean water and
left to dry.
By the way, it’s always a good idea
to be careful when cleaning valves,
to ensure that you don’t wash the
markings off.
The cabinet was in quite reasonable
order, with only one or two cracks
in the bakelite. It was given a gentle
“going over” with some automotive
cut and polish and now looks almost
as good as new.
Next, the knobs were given the same
treatment and came up well. However,
there is a circular groove in each knob
that had been painted in the past, along
with a dimple on the on-off knob (to
indicate on/off position). Only remnants of the original paint remained,
so I used an old steel nib pen and some
black paint to fill in the grooves and
the dimple.
The end result looked terrible until I wiped away the paint that was
outside the grooves with a cloth. The
edges were then clean and sharp but
the knobs were left with a dark grey
smudge over them. This was easily
fixed – I let the paint dry and then
carefully polished the knobs and they
came up looking like new.
This is the original battery cable
from the old Radiola 433MCZ. The
insulation had perished so badly
that the entire cable assembly had
to be replaced.
Circuit restoration
It was now time for the circuit restoration. First, the rubber insulation
on the battery cable leads was in poor
condition and so they were replaced
with plastic covered leads of the same
colour. These leads were then carefully
wrapped in insulation tape as far as
the cable socket.
The original cable had a 375mA
fuse fitted to the HT line but I can
see no reason for this and so left it
out. If I can work out a way of getting
the brown cotton covering off the old
cable, I’ll slip it over the new cable
to make it look more authentic and
refit the fuse.
I also left the battery plugs off, as it’s
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.2: this diagram shows how the battery
cable is wired to the 12-pin socket.
more convenient to connect the power
leads directly to the power supply.
However, you do have to ensure that
the filaments are not connected to the
90V line!
My next step was to test all the
capacitors and resistors in the set. As
usual, a number of the paper capacitors required replacement – ie, the two
automatic gain control (AGC) filter
capacitors (C3 and C17) and the audio
couplers (C22 and C23). The remaining
paper capacitors were leaky but were
OK to leave in the circuit.
The resistors fared somewhat better
and only R14 was well out of tolerance
at around 600W. It was replaced with
a 330W 0.25W resistor.
Supply checks
Before installing the valves, I decided to carry out a few simple voltage
July 2005 93
any of the type numbers on the circuit.
However, a quick rummage through
my valve data books soon revealed
that it is equivalent to a 3V4.
The smoke test
Powering battery-operated receivers is no problem if you build a mainspowered dry-battery eliminator.
This is the under-chassis view before restoration. Note the arrow pointing
to the dial drive actuated dial-light switch
checks. First, I connected the repaired
supply cable to the receiver and did
some resistance checks to my “battery
eliminator” power supply (which I
made about 15 years ago). That done,
I switched on and found that the supply voltages (1.4V and 90V) at various
94 Silicon Chip
points in the receiver were correct.
I then checked the filaments of all
the valves using an ohmmeter and all
had continuity. The valve sockets were
then sprayed with Inox anti-corrosion
spray and the valves re-inserted. One
of the valves, an N19, didn’t match
It was time for the smoke test so I
connected an antenna and earth and
switched on. The set immediately
showed signs of life and I was able to
tune in various local stations.
However, the front end alignment
was out and I quickly adjusted the tuning range so that the entire broadcast
band could be tuned. I then attacked
the alignment of the IF amplifier stage.
Three out of the four screwdriver
adjustments were nearly spot on but
I couldn’t get the fourth (L8) to peak
at all. The performance improved as
I screwed the slug further into the
transformer but there was no peak.
I’ve had this problem before with
and the cure has been to replace the
IF transformer. Unfortunately, I didn’t
have a replacement transformer available this time, so I decided to pull the
transformer to pieces and replace the
mica tuning capacitor (C15).
When I finally removed the capacitor, I checked its value and it
read 125pF. However, its correct value
is listed in the parts list as 70pF, so
I replaced it with a 68pF styroseal
capacitor mounted external to the
transformer
That done, I adjusted both L8 and
L9 in the IF transformer again and the
improvement in performance had to
be heard to be believed – the set was
now performing really well. But why
had mica capacitor C15 increased in
value to 125pF? Was it incorrectly
marked or had it gone high over the
years? I really don’t know the answer
to that question.
The set was now performing quite
well but did produce a few “scratching” during tuning, which suggested
that the tuning gangs were partially
shorting at times. This problem was
cured by applying 40V across the
plates (with the other components
disconnected) and winding the plates
in and out a few times. I then switched
my high-voltage tester to its 500V
range and checked again. There were
now no signs of any shorts and the
gangs were wired back into circuit.
The dial lamps
The original 3V cycle batteries that
were used to power the dial lamps
siliconchip.com.au
Photo Gallery: AWA Radiola 55E
Released in 1932, the
Radiola 55E was one of
the last TRF (tuned radio
frequency) consoles
manufactured by AWA. It
was fitted with an 8-inch
(20cm) electrodynamic
speaker and used a
4-gang tuning capacitor to tune its three RF
stages and detector
stage. The valve line-up
was as follows: 3 x 235
RF amplifiers, a 224A
detector, a 247 audio
output stage and a 280
rectifier stage. Photo:
Historical Radio Society
of Australia, Inc.
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Silicon Chip
Binders
are no longer available, so I fitted a 2
x C-cell battery holder to the chassis
and ran the necessary connections to
the lamp and to the chassis. At the
same time, the old battery lead was
kept in place, in case I do happen to
come across an old cycle battery down
the track.
The original dial lamps had failed
and these were replaced with two
MES 3.6V torch globes. They are
tuned on by pushing the tuning knob
and are required at night time because
the dial pointer is not particularly
easy to see.
REAL
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$12.95
PLUS P
&
P
Powering battery receivers
Powering a battery receiver is a
problem for many collectors, as the
batteries are now either unobtainable
or very expensive. I first realised this
about 15 years ago and decided to do
something about it by building the supply shown in one of the photographs.
It will handle most battery sets from
the mid 1930s onwards, as well as 6V
vibrator receivers that draw no more
than 1A.
It’s important that we collect and
restore battery receivers. They are an
siliconchip.com.au
A good valve equivalents data book is
invaluable when it comes to restoring
vintage radio receivers.
important part of our radio heritage
and this little receiver is well worth
SC
having in any collection.
H SILICON CHIP logo printed in
gold-coloured lettering on spine
& cover
H Buy five and get them postage
free!
Price: $A12.95 plus $A7.00 p&p per
oder. Available only in Australia.
Just fill in the handy order form
in this issue; or fax (02) 9979
6503; or ring (02) 9979 5644 &
quote your credit card number.
July 2005 95
ALL S ILICON C HIP SUBSCRIBERS – PRINT,
OR BOTH – AUTOMATICALLY QUALIFY FOR A
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hybrid bipolar/FET amps, electronic switching and more. 467 pages in paperback.
SMALL SIGNAL AUDIO DESIGN
By Douglas Self – First Edition 2010 $95.00*
The latest from the Guru of audio. Explains audio concepts in easy-to-understand language with plenty of examples and reasoning. Inspiration for audio
designers, superb background for audio enthusiasts and especially where it comes to
component peculiarities and limitations. Expensive? Yes. Value for money? YES! Highly
recommended. 558 pages in paperback.
AUDIO POWER AMPLIFIER DESIGN HANDBOOK
by Douglas Self – 5th Edition 2009 $85.00*
"The Bible" on audio power amplifiers. Many revisions and
updates to the previous edition and now has an extra three
chapters covering Class XD, Power Amp Input Systems and
Input Processing and Auxiliarly Subsystems. Not cheap and not a book
for the beginner but if you want the best reference on Audio Power Amps,
you want this one! 463 pages in paperback.
DVD PLAYERS AND DRIVES
by K.F. Ibrahim. Published 2003. $71.00*
OP AMPS FOR EVERYONE
By Bruce Carter – 4th Edition 2013 $83.00*
This is the bible for anyone designing op amp circuits and you don't
have to be an engineer to get the most out of it. It is written in simple language
but gives lots of in-depth info, bridging the gap between the theoretical and the
practical. 281 pages,
A guide to DVD technology and applications, with particular focus
on design issues and pitfalls, maintenance and repair. Ideal for
engineers, technicians, students of consumer electronics and
sales and installation staff. 319 pages in paperback.
by Sanjaya Maniktala, Published April 2012. $83.00
Thoroughly revised! The most comprehensive study available of theoretical and practical aspects of controlling and measuring
EMI in switching power supplies.
Subtitled Exploring the PIC32, a Microchip insider tells all on this powerful
PIC! Focuses on examples and exercises that show how to solve common,
real-world design problems quickly. Includes handy checklists. FREE CD-ROM includes
source code in C, the Microchip C30 compiler, and MPLAB SIM. 400 pages paperback.
By Garry Cratt – Latest (7th) Edition 2008 $49.00
Written in Australia, for Australian conditions by one of Australia's foremost
satellite TV experts. If there is anything you wanted to know about setting up
a satellite TV system, (including what you can't do!) it's sure to be covered
in this 176-page paperback book.
See
Review
Feb
2004
SWITCHING POWER SUPPLIES A-Z
PROGRAMMING 32-bit MICROCONTROLLERS
IN C By Luci di Jasio (2008) $79.00*
PRACTICAL GUIDE TO SATELLITE TV
See
Review
March
2010
ELECTRIC MOTORS AND DRIVES
By Austin Hughes & Bill Drury - 4th edition 2013 $59.00*
This is a very easy to read book with very little mathematics or
formulas. It covers the basics of all the main motor types, DC
permanent magnet and wound field, AC induction and steppers and
gives a very good description of how speed control circuits work with these
motors. Soft covers, 444 pages.
NEWNES GUIDE TO TV & VIDEO TECHNOLOGY
By KF Ibrahim 4th Edition (Published 2007) $49.00
It's back! Provides a full and comprehensive coverage of video and television technology including HDTV and DVD. Starts with fundamentals so is
ideal for students but covers in-depth technologies such as Blu-ray, DLP,
Digital TV, etc so is also perfect for engineers. 600+ pages in paperback.
RF CIRCUIT DESIGN
by Chris Bowick, Second Edition, 2008. $63.00*
The classic RF circuit design book. RF circuit design is now more important
that ever in the wireless world. In most of the wireless devices that we use
there is an RF component – this book tells how to design and integrate in a
very practical fashion. 244 pages in paperback.
PRACTICAL RF HANDBOOK
AC MACHINES
By Jim Lowe Published 2006 $66.00*
Applicable to Australian trades-level courses including NE10 AC Machines,
NE12 Synchronous Machines and the AC part of NE30 Electric Motor
Control and Protection. Covering polyphase induction motors, singlephase motors, synchronous machines and polyphase motor starting. 160
pages in paperback.
PRACTICAL VARIABLE SPEED DRIVES &
POWER ELECTRONICS
Se
e
by Malcolm Barnes. 1st Ed, Feb 2003. $73.00* Review
An essential reference for engineers and anyone who wishes
to design or use variable speed drives for induction motors.
286 pages in soft cover.
Feb
2003
BUILD YOUR OWN ELECTRIC MOTORCYCLE
by Carl Vogel. Published 2009. $40.00*
by Ian Hickman. 4th edition 2007 $61.00*
Alternative fuel expert Carl Vogel gives you a hands-on guide with
A guide to RF design for engineers, technicians, students and enthusiasts.
the latest technical information and easy-to-follow instructions
Covers key topics in RF: analog design principles, transmission lines,
for building a two-wheeled electric vehicle – from a streamlined
couplers, transformers, amplifiers, oscillators, modulation, transmitters and
scooter to a full-sized motorcycle. 384 pages in soft cover.
receivers, propagation and antennas. 279 pages in paperback.
*NOTE: ALL PRICES ARE PLUS P&P – AUSTRALIA ONLY: $10.00 per order; NZ – $AU12.00 PER BOOK; REST OF WORLD $AU18.00 PER BOOK
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PIC MICROCONTROLLERS: know it all
SELF ON AUDIO
Multiple authors $85.00
The best of subjects Newnes authors have written over the past few years,
combined in a one-stop maxi reference. Covers introduction to PICs and their
programming in Assembly, PICBASIC, MBASIC & C. 900+ pages.
PROGRAMMING and CUSTOMIZING THE
PICAXE By David Lincoln (2nd Ed, 2011) $65.00*
A great aid when wrestling with applications for the PICAXE
See
series of microcontrollers, at beginner, intermediate and
Review
April
advanced levels. Every electronics class, school and library should have a
copy, along with anyone who works with PICAXEs. 300 pages in paperback. 2011
PIC IN PRACTICE
by D W Smith. 2nd Edition - published 2006 $60.00*
Based on popular short courses on the PIC, for professionals, students
and teachers. Can be used at a variety of levels. An ideal introduction to the
world of microcontrollers. 255 pages in paperback.
PIC MICROCONTROLLER – your personal introductory course By John Morton 3rd edition 2005. $60.00*
A unique and practical guide to getting up and running with the PIC. It assumes no knowledge of microcontrollers – ideal introduction for students,
teachers, technicians and electronics enthusiasts. Revised 3rd edition focuses entirely
on re-programmable flash PICs such as 16F54, 16F84 12F508 and 12F675. 226 pages
in paperback.
by Douglas Self 2nd Edition 2006 $69.00*
A collection of 35 classic magazine articles offering a dependable methodology for designing audio power amplifiers to improve performance at every
point without significantly increasing cost. Includes compressors/limiters,
hybrid bipolar/FET amps, electronic switching and more. 467 pages in paperback.
SMALL SIGNAL AUDIO DESIGN
By Douglas Self – First Edition 2010 $95.00*
The latest from the Guru of audio. Explains audio concepts in easy-to-understand language with plenty of examples and reasoning. Inspiration for audio
designers, superb background for audio enthusiasts and especially where it comes to
component peculiarities and limitations. Expensive? Yes. Value for money? YES! Highly
recommended. 558 pages in paperback.
AUDIO POWER AMPLIFIER DESIGN HANDBOOK
by Douglas Self – 5th Edition 2009 $85.00*
"The Bible" on audio power amplifiers. Many revisions and
updates to the previous edition and now has an extra three
chapters covering Class XD, Power Amp Input Systems and
Input Processing and Auxiliarly Subsystems. Not cheap and not a book
for the beginner but if you want the best reference on Audio Power Amps,
you want this one! 463 pages in paperback.
DVD PLAYERS AND DRIVES
by K.F. Ibrahim. Published 2003. $71.00*
OP AMPS FOR EVERYONE
By Bruce Carter – 4th Edition 2013 $83.00*
This is the bible for anyone designing op amp circuits and you don't
have to be an engineer to get the most out of it. It is written in simple language
but gives lots of in-depth info, bridging the gap between the theoretical and the
practical. 281 pages,
A guide to DVD technology and applications, with particular focus
on design issues and pitfalls, maintenance and repair. Ideal for
engineers, technicians, students of consumer electronics and
sales and installation staff. 319 pages in paperback.
by Sanjaya Maniktala, Published April 2012. $83.00
Thoroughly revised! The most comprehensive study available of theoretical and practical aspects of controlling and measuring
EMI in switching power supplies.
Subtitled Exploring the PIC32, a Microchip insider tells all on this powerful
PIC! Focuses on examples and exercises that show how to solve common,
real-world design problems quickly. Includes handy checklists. FREE CD-ROM includes
source code in C, the Microchip C30 compiler, and MPLAB SIM. 400 pages paperback.
By Garry Cratt – Latest (7th) Edition 2008 $49.00
Written in Australia, for Australian conditions by one of Australia's foremost
satellite TV experts. If there is anything you wanted to know about setting up
a satellite TV system, (including what you can't do!) it's sure to be covered
in this 176-page paperback book.
See
Review
Feb
2004
SWITCHING POWER SUPPLIES A-Z
PROGRAMMING 32-bit MICROCONTROLLERS
IN C By Luci di Jasio (2008) $79.00*
PRACTICAL GUIDE TO SATELLITE TV
See
Review
March
2010
ELECTRIC MOTORS AND DRIVES
By Austin Hughes & Bill Drury - 4th edition 2013 $59.00*
This is a very easy to read book with very little mathematics or
formulas. It covers the basics of all the main motor types, DC
permanent magnet and wound field, AC induction and steppers and
gives a very good description of how speed control circuits work with these
motors. Soft covers, 444 pages.
NEWNES GUIDE TO TV & VIDEO TECHNOLOGY
By KF Ibrahim 4th Edition (Published 2007) $49.00
It's back! Provides a full and comprehensive coverage of video and television technology including HDTV and DVD. Starts with fundamentals so is
ideal for students but covers in-depth technologies such as Blu-ray, DLP,
Digital TV, etc so is also perfect for engineers. 600+ pages in paperback.
RF CIRCUIT DESIGN
by Chris Bowick, Second Edition, 2008. $63.00*
The classic RF circuit design book. RF circuit design is now more important
that ever in the wireless world. In most of the wireless devices that we use
there is an RF component – this book tells how to design and integrate in a
very practical fashion. 244 pages in paperback.
PRACTICAL RF HANDBOOK
AC MACHINES
By Jim Lowe Published 2006 $66.00*
Applicable to Australian trades-level courses including NE10 AC Machines,
NE12 Synchronous Machines and the AC part of NE30 Electric Motor
Control and Protection. Covering polyphase induction motors, singlephase motors, synchronous machines and polyphase motor starting. 160
pages in paperback.
PRACTICAL VARIABLE SPEED DRIVES &
POWER ELECTRONICS
Se
e
by Malcolm Barnes. 1st Ed, Feb 2003. $73.00* Review
An essential reference for engineers and anyone who wishes
to design or use variable speed drives for induction motors.
286 pages in soft cover.
Feb
2003
BUILD YOUR OWN ELECTRIC MOTORCYCLE
by Carl Vogel. Published 2009. $40.00*
by Ian Hickman. 4th edition 2007 $61.00*
Alternative fuel expert Carl Vogel gives you a hands-on guide with
A guide to RF design for engineers, technicians, students and enthusiasts.
the latest technical information and easy-to-follow instructions
Covers key topics in RF: analog design principles, transmission lines,
for building a two-wheeled electric vehicle – from a streamlined
couplers, transformers, amplifiers, oscillators, modulation, transmitters and
scooter to a full-sized motorcycle. 384 pages in soft cover.
receivers, propagation and antennas. 279 pages in paperback.
*NOTE: ALL PRICES ARE PLUS P&P – AUSTRALIA ONLY: $10.00 per order; NZ – $AU12.00 PER BOOK; REST OF WORLD $AU18.00 PER BOOK
To
Place
Your
Order:
INTERNET (24/7)
PAYPAL (24/7)
eMAIL (24/7)
www.siliconchip.
com.au/Shop/Books
Use your PayPal account
silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
with order & credit card details
FAX (24/7)
MAIL (24/7)
Your order and card details to Your order to PO Box 139
Collaroy NSW 2097
(02) 9939 2648 with all details
PHONE – (9-5, Mon-Fri)
Call (02) 9939 3295 with
with order & credit card details
You can also order and pay for books by cheque/money order (Mail Only). Make cheques payable to Silicon Chip Publications.
ALL TITLES SUBJECT TO AVAILABILITY. PRICES VALID FOR MONTH OF MAGAZINE ISSUE ONLY. ALL PRICES INCLUDE GST
ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Write to: Ask Silicon Chip, PO Box 139, Collaroy Beach, NSW 2097; or
send an email to silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au
Query on
loudspeaker resonance
Some time ago, after reading your article on the JV80 speaker system (SILICON CHIP, October 2003), I purchased
the speaker kit with the intention of
constructing my own boxes. I have
finally begun, and for interest I thought
I’d check the resonant frequency (Fs)
of the drivers. I was most surprised to
find that they all measured between
34.5Hz and 35.4Hz. Your article gave
it as 31Hz and a search of the internet
came up with 29.5Hz.
I am just wondering how sensitive
the box design is to such a variation
in Fs and would like to know how it
was measured for the October 2003
article. (K. W., via email).
• There are a number of significant
points about the measurement of
speaker resonance. First, the speaker
should be mounted on a baffle, typically one-metre square. Second, the
speaker needs to be driven from a low
impedance source, less than 1W. Driving it from a high impedance source
will typically raise the measured
resonance by a few Hertz. Third, the
quoted resonance figure is not an abso-
lute and has a tolerance which could
be plus or minus 5 or 10% (what ever
the manufacturer specified).
The resonance could also be expected to drop by a few hertz after
the speaker has been used for a few
hours or more.
Finally, we would not expect the
speaker box performance to be affected
by a small shift in the resonance.
50W DC load
circuit question
This is a question about the 50W DC
Load described in the September 2002
issue. Why has a 47mF non-polarised
capacitor been specified across the
output, as opposed to say, a 47mF polarised electrolytic? Mosfet Q1 has an
intrinsic anti-parallel diode, so it can’t
be just in case the load is accidentally
connected in reverse – a regular electrolytic would be protected. (R. Z.,
Victoria, Canada).
• Good question. We realised that if
a low impedance, high current source
was connected in reverse across the input terminals, the Mosfet would likely
be destroyed, as the fuse wouldn’t be
fast enough to protect it. Clearly, the
Component-to-RGB Converter Modification
I built your Component Video to
RGB Converter (May 2004) and the
TV displays pure black. I believe
this was mentioned in a later issue
of your magazine and it has to do
with an “RGB flag” signal to pin
16 of the SCART socket on the TV.
Could you please advise a likely
fix? I am using a Jaycar RGB to
SCART cable (just the three leads).
(M. P., via email).
• The modification to the Component Video to RGB Converter was
published in the August 2004 issue,
in the Circuit Notebook column on
page 77.
Basically the modification is very
simple, involving the addition of a
98 Silicon Chip
mini-pin jack to the rear panel of
the Converter between CON6 and
CON8. A 220W resistor is then fitted
to connect the pin jack to the Converter’s +5V line (at the right-hand
pin of REG1).
A length of flexible hookup wire
is then added to your RGB cable,
connected to pin 16 of the SCART
plug and fitted with a pin jack plug
at the Converter end. When the plug
is fitted to the pin jack, this connects
pin 16 of the TV’s SCART input to
+5V when ever the Converter is
powered up. This seems to solve the
problem of a “black screen”, with
sets such as yours needing an “RGB
Flag” signal on pin 16.
lack of robust polarity protection is
one of the downsides to such a simple
design.
Assuming the Mosfet failed opencircuit, the 47mF capacitor would be
the next to go (depending on input
voltage). We therefore decided to use
a non-polarised electrolytic to limit
the damage.
Having said that, you can use a
polarised capacitor if you prefer.
FM stereo Micromitter
drift problem
I have constructed the FM Stereo
Micromitter kit (SILICON CHIP, December 2002). It seems to work fine except
that the frequency drifts high after
about 10 minutes. All construction
appears to be OK. Any suggestions?
When it is on frequency, it is quite
impressive for such a small unit. (J.
T., Winmalee, NSW).
• The phase locked loop must not
be operating. Check the lock voltage
for around 2.5V, as detailed in the
setup procedure. Maybe the coil is
not wound exactly as shown, with the
same direction and position close to
the PC board.
Video connection
for a hotel TV
Can I make or buy a device that will
allow me to view my digital camera
output on a hotel TV? That is, a TV
with no video input and a secure coax
connector for the RF. I thought of an
RF modulator but how do I get it to
the TV?
Would a dipole antenna cut to length
for channel 4 (NTSC) overpower the
coax feed? (D. F., Toronto, Canada).
• That’s a pretty difficult task. Yes,
you can use a modulator but you then
need to plug its output into the antenna
socket of the TV and then you have
to tune the TV set to the modulator’s
output frequency. The modulator also
has to match the system used by the
TV (PAL, NTSC, etc). Most countries
of the world do not use NTSC.
siliconchip.com.au
Notes & Errata
Inductance & Q-Factor Meter,
February & March 2005: the specifications incorrectly stated the
measurement range of the meter
and its power requirements. The
correct measurement range is 200nH
- 999mH and the maximum current
demand is about 300mA.
Also, the orientation of the ISP
header on the overlay diagram
(Fig.9) and various photos is opposite to that used on the ISP programmer (SILICON CHIP, October 2002).
To use a pin-to-pin cable between
the ISP programmer and the meter,
install the ISP header the opposite
way around to that shown on the
overlay.
In addition, the 1N4148 diode
above IC6 on the overlay diagram
(Fig.9) should be labelled D8 instead
of D9 and there are several discrepancies in the parts list, as follows:
change 9 x 100W to 8 x 100W resistors; change 1 x 8.2nF to 2 x 8.2nF
MKT capacitors; change 6 x 1N4148
to 7 x 1N4148 diodes; and add 1 x
130W resistor.
The lack of over-range indication
in the original release of the microcontroller code is being looked
at by the author and we hope that
an update will be available on our
website shortly.
values of resistors R1, R2 & R3 on
the circuit are for vented enclosures.
If you have sealed enclosures, R1
should be changed to 27kW, R2 to
47kW and R3 to 39kW”.
Clifford the Cricket, December 1994:
the 2.2mF electrolytic capacitor is
shown reversed on the circuit diagram (Fig.1) but is shown oriented
correctly on the parts overlay (Fig.2).
Also, the 68kW resistor on the parts
overlay should be a 10kW value, as
shown on the circuit diagram and
parts list.
Bidirectional Motor Speed Controller, December 2004: the text states
that the circuit can operate from a
24V battery. However, due to the
gate-source voltage limit of the Mosfets, it is only suitable for use at up
Bass Extender, April 2005: under the
“Circuit Details” section on page 62,
the text in the fifth paragraph states
that the circuit shows a sealed enclosure when it actually shows a vented
enclosure. The paragraph should be
changed to read: “Accordingly, the
You cannot hope to get your modulator’s signal into the shielded coax – you
have to make a direct connection to
the TV. If the coax cable is secured,
you can forget it.
Power boost for
Studio 350
I would like to modify the Studio
350 amplifier circuit (January/February 2004) by adding four more output
transistors in parallel to increase the
wattage. Would there be any problems
siliconchip.com.au
to 16V DC (ie, from a 12V battery).
However, it should be possible to
modify the circuit for 24V operation
by fitting 16V zener diodes between
the gate and source terminals of each
of the Mosfets (Q3-Q6). The accompanying excerpt from the circuit
diagram (see Fig.1) shows how to
connect the zeners.
Portable PIC Programmer, September 2003: a few constructors have
been unable to adjust VR1 to get the
required 5.0V output from REG1,
as described in the article. If you
encounter this problem, replace the
22kW resistor in the collector circuit
of Q1 with a 10kW value and redo
the calibration.
Although we don’t recommend
the use of the kit to program
PIC12C508/9 devices, we’ve found
that it’s more likely
to program these
devices successfully if the 1mF capacitor connected
to the cathode of
D4 is replaced with
a 10mF 35V tantalum unit.
Fig.1: connect 16V
zener diodes to the
Bidirectional Motor
Speed Controller as
shown here for 24V
operation.
doing these modifications? (G. M., via
email).
• It could be done; two extra transistors per side with ±80V rails would
give around 500W into a 4-ohm load.
However, there would clearly be some
difficulties getting it all connected and
working reliably. You might be better
off building the 500W amplifier from
the August, September and October
1997 issues. It uses a similar circuit,
with the same output transistors. The
PC boards can be obtained from RCS
Radio at www.rcsradio.com.au
Comprehensive
video source
Having recently successfully constructed both a component videoto-RGB converter and a TV pattern
generator (SILICON CHIP designs) has
got me thinking. A really useful gadget
would be a simple video source, say
just colour bars/greyscale but with
multiple outputs; eg, composite, Svideo, component, RGB, plus perhaps
an RF output.
One way to do this is to burn a CD
July 2005 99
Heat-Sensitive Computer Power Supply
Recently, my computer has developed a fault which appears to be in
the input power supply switching
circuit. When I first switch it on (after it has been off for several hours
and is “cold”), it shuts down within
the first minute or so. There appears
to be no power getting to the computer and everything (including the
power supply fan) is off.
I then switch it off at the mains,
wait for about a minute and switch
it back on again. It then switches
on as normal.
I am not really familiar with the
circuitry for the power supply, but
presume that it contains some “protection” circuit which shuts off the
supply if there is a fault. If this is
the case, I’m not sure if there really
is a fault or if the protection circuit
is malfunctioning due to a faulty
component.
It seems logical that the fault
is in the mains switching circuit.
Even if I can’t fix this fault myself,
it would be interesting to know
how the “switch on” circuitry operates and what protection arrangements are built in to such power
with appropriate jpeg image files and
access these through a DVD player
with multiple outputs (which I have
already done).
However, a simple hardware realisation could be cheaper, more portable
and more reliable. How about a future
project along these lines? (H. T., Lower
Hutt, NZ).
• Given that DVD players are really
supplies. (B. T., via email).
• We also believe that the problem
could be in the power switching circuitry or at least in the power supply itself. Unfortunately, it could
also be almost anywhere else in
your system, even the motherboard,
which controls the power supply
via the PS_ON signal. Here’s one
possible scenario that may help
explain what we mean:
If the heatsink on the microprocessor were to come adrift, it would
rapidly overheat at power up. Some
motherboards have the capability to
shut down the power supply when
the processor temperature exceeds
a certain value – possibly just minutes after power up!
If you’re curious about your supply, you’ll find the schematic of a
typical unit at: www.pavouk.comp.
cz/hw/en_atxps.html
For safety reasons, we don’t recommend that individuals attempt
to repair off-line switchmode power
supplies (SMPS) unless they have
the relevant expertise. We suggest
that you try changing the power
supply!
cheap these days, your suggested solution is by far the cheapest and easiest
approach.
Using a train detector
with Command Control
I am attempting to use the Train
Detector For Model Railways (SILICON
CHIP, June 1995) with a Command
Control System, without success. Can
the Train Detector system be made to
work with these Command Control
systems. (R. S., Bundaberg, Qld).
• Unless you have your layout divided up into blocks, which is probably
unlikely if you are using a Command
Control system, then the Train Detector
is not practical. Having said that, you
should still be able to get it to work
although note that the 4mH isolation
choke L1 (shown on Fig.4, page 29)
should be inserted in series with the
output from your Command Controller
to the rails.
Windows-based
EPROM programmer
I have built the EPROM Programmer
and not being a programmer myself, I
need to be able to program (for a pinball machine) 2716 EPROMs (24-pin,
2048 byte), which is priority 1. Also
2316 masked ROMs (or not) and 2732
EPROMs are priority 2.
The programs themselves are available but for the 2716 I need to know
how to adapt them or is the 24-pin
adapter suitable? (A. M., via email).
• The answers to your questions are
as follows:
(1). The programmer cannot program
2716 EPROMs. This is because it was
designed for devices that use 12.75V
or 21V programming voltages, whereas
the 2716 requires 25V.
(2). The programmer can handle
2732A EPROMs using the 24-pin
adapter described in the instructions.
(3). 2316 PROMs are factory (mask)
programmed and cannot be erased
or reprogrammed. However, some
pinball machines will accept 2716 or
even 2732 EPROMS instead with a
SC
jumper/link change.
WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage.
All such projects should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely. Readers are warned that high
voltage wiring should be carried out according to the instructions in the articles. When working on these projects
use extreme care to ensure that you do not accidentally come into contact with mains AC voltages or high voltage
DC. If you are not confident about working with projects employing mains voltages or other high voltages, you are
advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd disclaims any liability for damages should
anyone be killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue of SILICON CHIP magazine.
Devices or circuits described in SILICON CHIP may be covered by patents. SILICON CHIP disclaims any liability
for the infringement of such patents by the manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also
disclaims any liability for projects which are used in such a way as to infringe relevant government regulations
and by-laws.
Advertisers are warned that they are responsible for the content of all advertisements and that they must conform to the Trade Practices Act 1974 or as subsequently amended and to any governmental regulations which are
applicable.
100 Silicon Chip
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words plus 66 cents for each additional word. Display ads: $36.00 (incl. GST) per
column centimetre (max. 10cm). Closing date: five weeks prior to month of sale.
To run your classified ad, print it clearly in the space below or on a separate sheet
of paper, fill out the form & send it with your cheque or credit card details to: Silicon
Chip Classifieds, PO Box 139, Collaroy, NSW 2097. Alternatively, fax the details
to (02) 9979 6503 or send an email to silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au
Taxation Invoice ABN 49 003 205 490
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Enclosed is my cheque/money order for $__________ or please debit my
Bankcard Visa Card Master Card
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Signature__________________________ Card expiry date______/______
Name _____________________________________________________
Street _____________________________________________________
Suburb/town ___________________________ Postcode______________
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siliconchip.com.au
FOR SALE
MORE CONTROL SOLUTIONS FOR
YOU:
Netiom Link – automatically transfer
digital inputs and outputs between two
cards over an Ethernet link
Labjack USB Data Acquisition
Module features 8 12-bit analog inputs, 20 digital I/O, 2 analog outputs
and high speed counter. Free software
DaqFactory Express, Labview driver
and ActiveX component.
Signal Conditioners non isolated
and isolated – convert thermocouples, RTDs to 4-20mA or 0-10V. Fully
programmable.
Pixel Programmable Controller with
4 analog inputs, 8 digital inputs and 8
relay outputs. Uses a Picaxe 28X. Programmed in BASIC.
Temperature and humidity sensors
N1500 universal process indicator.
Budget-priced displays thermocouple,
RTD, 4-20mA and 0-5V readings. Fully
programmable.
Box of Connectors – choose BNC,
UHF, N Type or RS232 gender changers
and converters together.
Serial and Parallel port relay controller cards.
Pump and Trip Alarm Controller
card. Duty-Standby operation.
MicroProgrammers for Atmel and
PIC chips.
2, 4 & 8 Relay Cards suitable for TTL
and Open Collector Outputs
DC, Stepper and Servo Motor controller kits.
Switch-Mode, Battery Chargers
and DC-DC converters.
Full details and credit card ordering available at www.oceancontrols.com.au.
Helping to put you in control.
ELECTRONIC ENGINEERING CONSULTANTS: Electronic Hardware and
Embedded Software for Industrial Control and Commercial Communications.
www.furzy.com.au
RCS RADIO/DESIGN is at 41 Arlewis
St, Chester Hill 2162, NSW Australia
and has all the published PC boards
July 2005 101
Wi-Fi
2.4GHz Antennas
Directionals
New New New
Mark22-SM
Slimline Mini FM R/C Receiver
Omnis
We also stock:
Panel Antennas
Ceiling Antennas
Low-loss 50 Ω cable
Connectors
Pigtails
Access Points
Masts
Amplifiers
Power-over-Ethernet
External Enclosures
Everything you need for WiFi!
FREENET-ANTENNAS
Web: www.freenet-antennas.com
Email: sales<at>freenet-antennas.com
Tel: (08) 9319 3275 (int +618 9319 3275)
Fax: (08) 9319 1720 (int +618 9319 1720)
TAIG MACHINERY
•
•
•
•
•
6 Channels
10kHz frequency separation
Size: 55 x 23 x 20mm
Weight: 25gm
Modular Construction
Price: $A129.50 with crystal
Electronics
PO Box 580, Riverwood, NSW 2210.
Ph/Fax (02) 9533 3517
email: youngbob<at>silvertone.com.au
Website: www.silvertone.com.au
Micro Mini Lathes and Mills
From $489.00
Stepper motors: 200 oz in $89.00, 330 oz in $110.00
Digital verniers: 150mm $55.00, 200mm $65.00
59 Gilmore Crescent
(02) 6281 5660
Garran ACT 2605
0412269707
Select your microcontroller kit
and get started...
Fax a copy of
From
$295*
RCM3400
this ad and
receive a
5% discount
on your order!
Feature rich, compiler, editor & debugger
with royalty free TCP/IP stack
• Prices exclude GST and delivery charges.
Tel: + 61 2 9906 6988
Fax: + 61 2 9906 7145
www.dominion.net.au
4007
from SC, EA, ETI, HE, AEM & others.
Ph (02) 9738 0330. sales<at>rcsradio.
com.au, www.rcsradio.com.au
SUPERBRIGHT LEDS from just 8 cents
each, including new wide angle range!
12 volt LED lightbars, great for solar/
camping. Nixie tubes and nixie kits. Lots
Circuit Ideas Wanted
Do you have a good circuit
idea? If so, sketch it out, write a
brief description of its operation
& send it to us. Provided your
idea is workable & original, we’ll
publish it in Circuit Notebook
& you’ll make some money. We
pay up to $60 for a good circuit
so send your idea to:
Silicon Chip Publications,
PO Box 139, Collaroy, NSW 2097.
102 Silicon Chip
Foam surrounds,voice coils,cones and more
Original parts for Dynaudio,Tannoy and others
Expert speaker repairs – 20 years experience
Australian agents for
products
Trade welcome – email for your user ID
Phone (03) 9647 7000
speakerbits.com.au
of other stuff, and always more items
being added. www.ledsales.com.au
WEATHER STATIONS: windspeed &
direction, inside temperature, outside
temperature & windchill. Records highs
& lows with time and date as they occur.
Optional rainfall and PC interface. Used
by government departments, farmers,
pilots and weather enthusiasts. Other
models with barometric pressure, humidity, dew point, solar radiation, UV,
leaf wetness, etc. Just phone, fax or write
for our FREE catalog and price list. Eco
Watch phone: (03) 9761 7040; fax: (03)
9761 7050; Unit 5, 17 Southfork Drive,
Kilsyth, Vic. 3137. ABN 63 006 399 480.
S-Video . . . Video . . . Audio . . . VGA
distribution amps, splitters, standards
converters, tbc’s, switchers, cables, etc,
& price list: www.questronix.com.au
ImageCraft C Compilers: 32-bit
Windows IDE and compiler. For AVR,
68HC08, 68HC11, 68HC12, 68HC16.
from $330.00
Atmel Flash CPU Programmer: Handles the 89Cx051, 89C5x, 89Sxx in
both DIP and PLCC44 and some AVR’s,
most 8-pin EEPROMS. Includes socket
for serial ISP cable. $220, $11 p&p.
SOIC adaptors: 20 pin $132.00, 14 pin
$126.50, 8 pin $121.00.
Full details on web-site. Credit cards
accepted.
GRANTRONICS PTY LTD, PO Box 275,
Wentworthville 2145. (02) 9896 7150 or
http://www.grantronics.com.au
PCBs MADE, ONE OR MANY. Any
format, hobbyists welcome. Sesame
Electronics Phone (02) 9593 1025.
sesame<at>sesame.com.au
www.sesame.com.au
USB KITS: GPIB Interface, Thermostat
Tester, LCD Module Interface, Stepper Motor Controller, PIO Interface,
DTMF Transceiver, Thermometer, DDS
HF Generator, Compass, 4 Channel
Voltmeter, I/O Relay Card, USB via
LabVIEW. Also available: Digital Oscilloscope, Temperature Loggers, VHF
Receivers and USB ActiveX (and USBDOS.exe file) to control our kits from
siliconchip.com.au
Do You Eat, Breathe and Sleep TECHNOLOGY?
Opportunities for full-time and part-time positions all over Australia & New Zealand
Jaycar Electronics is a rapidly growing, Australian
owned, international retailer with more than 39 stores in
Australia and New Zealand. Our aggressive expansion
programme has resulted in the need for dedicated
individuals to join our team to assist us in achieving our
goals.
We pride ourselves on the technical knowledge of our
staff. Do you think that the following statements describe
you? Please put a tick in the boxes that do:
Knowledge of electronics, particularly at component level.
Assemble projects or kits yourself for car, computer, audio, etc.
Have empathy with others who have the same interest as you.
May have worked in some retail already (not obligatory).
Have energy, enthusiasm and a personality that enjoys
helping people.
Appreciates an opportunity for future advancement.
Have an eye for detail.
Why not do something you love and get paid for it? Please
write or email us with your details, along with your C.V.
and any qualifications you may have. We pay a
competitive salary, sales commissions and have great
benefits like a liberal staff purchase policy.
Advertising Index
555 Electronics.............................45
Amateur Scientist CD ..............OBC
Send to:
Retail Operations Manager - Jaycar Electronics Pty Ltd
P.O. Box 6424 Silverwater NSW 1811
Email: jobs<at>jaycar.com.au
Altronics................................. 76-79
Jaycar Electronics is an equal opportunity employer and
actively promotes staff from within the organisation.
Av-Comm...................................103
ATA...............................................95
Dick Smith Electronics........... 18-23
Dominion Electronics..............7,102
Elexol...........................................45
Satellite TV Reception
ELNEC IC PROGRAMMERS
Evatco..........................................91
International satellite
TV reception in your
home is now affordable.
Send for your free info
pack containing equipment catalog, satellite
lists, etc or call for appointment to view.
We can display all satellites from 76.5°
to 180°.
Universal and
specialised models
High quality
Realistic prices
Large range of adaptors
Free regular software updates
Windows 95/98/Me/NT/2k/XP
Freenet Antennas.......................102
AV-COMM P/L, 24/9 Powells Rd,
Brookvale, NSW 2100.
Tel: 02 9939 4377 or 9939 4378.
Fax: 9939 4376; www.avcomm.com.au
PO Box 275, Wentworthville. 2145.
Ph: 02 9896 7150
your own application. www.ar.com.
au/~softmark
GRANTRONICS PTY LTD
www.grantronics.com.au
Furzy Electronics........................103
Grantronics..........................102,103
Harbuch Electronics.....................59
Instant PCBs..............................102
Jaycar ...............IFC, 49-56, 58, 103
JED Microprocessors................5,58
Microgram Computers....................3
Ozitronics.......................................7
Prime Electronics...........................7
KIT ASSEMBLY
Quest Electronics..................58,102
NEVILLE WALKER KIT ASSEMBLY
& REPAIR:
• Australia wide service
• Small production runs
• Specialist “one-off” applications
Phone Neville Walker (07) 3857 2752
Email: flashdog<at>optusnet.com.au
RCS Radio.................................101
WANTED
WANTED: EARLY HIFIs, AMPLIFIERS, Speakers, Turntables, Valves,
Books, Quad, Leak, Pye, Lowther,
Ortofon, SME, Western Electric, Al-
RF Probes....................................91
SC Perf Elect. For Cars.......104,IBC
SC Projects For Cars, Vol.2 .........83
Silicon Chip Binders..............71,103
Silicon Chip Bookshop........... 96-97
tec, Marantz, McIntosh, Goodmans,
Wharfedale, Tannoy, radio and wireless.
Collector/Hobbyist will pay cash. (02)
9440 1267. johnmurt<at>highprofile.
com.au
Silicon Chip Binders
Each binder holds up to 12 issues
SILICON CHIP logo printed on spine & cover
Price: $A12.95 plus $A7.00 p&p per order. Available
in Australia only. Buy five and get them postage
free.
Just fill in & mail the handy order form in this issue; or
fax (02) 9979 6503; or ring (02) 9979 5644 & quote
your credit card number.
siliconchip.com.au
REAL
VALUE
AT
$12.95
PLUS P
&
P
Silicon Chip Subscriptions...........67
Silvertone Electronics................102
Siomar Batteries..........................47
Speakerbits................................102
Taig Machinery...........................102
Telelink.........................................58
____________________________
PC Boards
Printed circuit boards for SILICON
CHIP projects are made by:
RCS Radio Pty Ltd. Phone (02) 9738
0330. Fax (02) 9738 0334.
July 2005 103
From the publishers of
The Lat
SILICON
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TECH BACKGRO
Intelligent
turbo timer
I SBN 095852294 - 4
TURBO BOOST
& nitrous fuel controllers
9 780958 522946
$19.80 (inc GST) NZ $22.00 (inc GST)
How engine
management works
We’ll let the
contents speak
for themselves:
Not a reprint – new projects and articles not
published before
Learn how engine management works
Build projects to control nitrous, fuel injection
and turbo boost systems
Switch devices on and off on the basis of signal
frequency, temperature and voltage
Build test instruments to check fuel injector
duty cycle, fuel mixture and brake and coolant
temperatures
P L U S L O T S MORE
104 Silicon Chip
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ADDENDUM
Codes
om Jaycar
The Kits
available fr
aland. See
Ze
Where To Buyoject described in this Abousoktralariae an
ew
dN
ery pr
l over
details.
Kits for ev
d dealers al
for further
s stores an
ck covers
ba
e
id
Electronic
ts
ou
front and
the inside
p.50
cle Meter –
or Duty Cy
Fuel Inject
om.au
siliconchip.c
Turbo
Intelligent
4
Timer – p.15
om.au
siliconchip.c
Order direct from SILICON CHIP Publications
Price: Aust. $A22.50 (inc. GST & p&p); Overseas $A26.00 (inc. p&p via airmail). Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd,
PO Box 139 Collaroy, NSW, Australia 2097. Phone (02) 9939 3295; Fax (02) 9939 2649. Email silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
July 2005 105
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