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SILICON
CHIP
Australia’s
World-Class
Electronics
Magazine!
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View the entire planet
– and your own backyard
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PLUS: Is Peter’s
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We believe so!
OCT0BER 2005
7
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October 2005 1
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
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Contents
www.siliconchip.com.au
Vol.18, No.10; October 2005
FEATURES
8 Google Earth
Ever wanted to zoom in on your house from 450km out in space?
Google Earth will let you do it . . . and it’s free! – by Ross Tester
14 NetComm NP210: Ethernet Over Power
You don’t have to run new cables. Ethernet Over Power (EOP) lets you
network your PCs via the 240VAC power wiring – by Ross Tester
Studio Series
Preamplifier – Page 26.
86 The iButton – A Hard “Nut” To Crack
This family of devices comes in 16mm-diameter stainless steel cans. You can
build a simple project to read their serial numbers – by Clive Seager
91 The DS1921 iButton Datalogger
The DS1921 houses an embedded computer chip with a temperature sensor,
clock/calendar and memory . . . all in a 16mm steel can – by Clive Seager
PROJECTS TO BUILD
22 Dead Simple USB Breakout “Box”
Do your USB devices misbehave or suddenly stop working? Here’s an easy
way to find out if your PC’s USB ports can meet the demand – by Stan Swan
26 Studio Series Stereo Preamplifier
Designed for the audio perfectionist, this superb preamplifier uses the latest
high-performance op amps for ultra-low noise and distortion – by Peter Smith
38 Video Reading Aid For Vision Impaired People
It uses a small CMOS TV camera to produce an enlarged positive or negative
image with boosted contrast – by Jim Rowe
Video Reading Aid For The
Vision Impaired – Page 38.
66 Simple Alcohol Level Meter
It might not stand up in court but this simple device will give a good indication
of alcohol on your breath (and therefore in your bloodstream) – by John Clarke
76 Ceiling Fan Timer
It runs the fan in your bathroom or toilet for a fixed time after you turn it on and
has two modes of operation – by John Clarke
SPECIAL COLUMNS
48 Serviceman’s Log
You can’t have enough protection – by the TV Serviceman
Simple Alcohol Level Meter
– Page 66.
61 Circuit Notebook
(1) Discrete Dual-Tracking Power Supply; (2) PICAXE-Controlled Bird Brooder;
(3) Electronic Nim Game; (4) Trickle Charger Uses An Optocoupler
94 Salvage It!
A $5 2-channel vibration sensor – by Julian Edgar
100 Vintage Radio
The Harbros 12/54B fire brigade transceiver – by Rodney Champness
DEPARTMENTS
2
4
37
83
Publisher’s Letter
Mailbag
Order Form
Product Showcase
siliconchip.com.au
106
108
109
111
Ask Silicon Chip
Notes & Errata
Market Centre
Ad Index
Ceiling Fan
Timer – Page 76.
October 2005 1
SILICON
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Publisher & Editor-in-Chief
Leo Simpson, B.Bus., FAICD
Production Manager
Greg Swain, B.Sc.(Hons.)
Technical Editor
Peter Smith
Technical Staff
John Clarke, B.E.(Elec.)
Ross Tester
Jim Rowe, B.A., B.Sc, VK2ZLO
Reader Services
Ann Jenkinson
Advertising Enquiries
Lawrence Smith
Benedictus Smith Pty Ltd
Phone (02) 9211 8035
Fax: (02) 9211 0068
lawrence<at>benedictus-smith.com
Regular Contributors
Brendan Akhurst
Rodney Champness, VK3UG
Julian Edgar, Dip.T.(Sec.), B.Ed,
Grad.Dip.Jnl
Mike Sheriff, B.Sc, VK2YFK
Stan Swan
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2 Silicon Chip
Publisher’s Letter
Valve amplifiers and
self-delusion
Well, we certainly seem to have struck a
chord with the publication of the Mudlark valve
amplifier design in the preceding two issues,
August and September. We have had some very
enthusiastic letters from readers. At one level,
I can understand the enthusiasm. With their
glowing valves and the heat rising from them,
valve amplifiers can seem almost animate, in
much the same way as a steam locomotive at
rest can seem almost “alive”.
But on a pure performance level, I really cannot understand the attraction.
Many people claim to love the sound of valve amplifiers, citing their “soft”
overload and tendency to produce low-order harmonic distortion instead of
the “highly undesirable high order” harmonic distortion of modern solidstate amplifiers. Now it is one thing for a musician to prefer a valve amplifier
because of the particular sound it can be made to produce when playing a
guitar. It is quite another for someone listening to CDs to prefer the sound of
a valve amplifier over modern solid-state hifi designs which DON’T suffer
at all from high-order harmonic distortion.
Unfortunately, there is lot of myth-making out there in the hifi marketplace and too many people just swallow it. For example, among some
valve enthusiasts, single-ended amplifiers such as the Mudlark are much
preferred over far superior class-AB push-pull valve designs. Partly, this is
because single-ended valve designs have predominantly second harmonic
distortion which is preferable to higher order harmonics. But what people
do not realise is that these single-ended amplifiers have LOTS of secondharmonic distortion.
Furthermore, if you have high harmonic distortion in a circuit, you will
ALWAYS have high intermodulation distortion. This is never mentioned
when you hear people waxing lyrical about valve amplifiers. Intermodulation
is the product of two different tones fed to a system – sum and difference
frequencies are the result and these are never harmonically related to the
input tones. On complex orchestral and choral music, high intermodulation
sounds horrible.
Interestingly, before the advent of solid-state amplifiers, high quality
push-pull valve amplifiers were the order of the day – single-ended designs
were regarded with disdain.
But forgetting distortion – and many valve amplifier enthusiasts seem
happy to do this – there is a huge amount of nonsense being circulated about
valve amplifiers. For example, printed circuit boards are regarded (by some
self-appointed gurus) as undesirable because they can lead to earth loops
while supposedly, such problems do not exist in amplifiers with pointto-point wiring! In fact, some amplifiers are assembled with silver wiring
because this supposedly minimises earth loop problems. What utter drivel!
By all means, build and listen to valve amplifiers if that is what you enjoy.
They do sound quite different to the best solid-state amplifiers. They can
even sound very pleasant. But to genuinely believe that typical valve amplifiers with low orders of feedback are more “hifi” and sound better than the
best solid-state amplifiers is merely self delusion.
Leo Simpson
siliconchip.com.au
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MAILBAG
OK, we gave in . . .
I was reading some old SILICON CHIP
magazines when I came across the
July 1994 issue and had to laugh at
your Publisher’s Letter, “I (Leo Simpson) can state right now that SILICON
CHIP will never publish a design for
a valve hifi amplifier – never. They
have no place in today’s technology”.
What do they say about never? Never
say never.
Kevin Taylor,
Auckland, NZ.
Comment: to be precise, the quote
should be, “I can state right now that
SILICON CHIP will never publish a design for a hifi valve amplifier unless it
is for academic interest only. In fact,
let’s be even more absolute and just
say NEVER.”
In fact, the reasons for writing that
editorial, that valve amplifiers perform
poorly by comparison with really good
solid-state models, are unchanged.
But as you say Kevin, never say never!
You can see why we were so reluctant
to do it.
Valve sound with solid-state
With all the current discussions
and projects featuring valves, can the
“valve sound” be obtained by having
a valve preamp and solid-state power
amplifier? If the answer is yes, why not
just go down this road and don’t worry
about 20-watt valve power amplifiers.
After all, a 100W solid-state amplifier
is easier to make; eg, your Ultra-LD
Stereo Amplifier.
Ian Stewart,
via email.
Comment: the valve preamp followed
by the Ultra-LD would give much better sound than a valve amplifier with
transformers and not much negative
feedback. However, valve sound enthusiasts don’t seem to want that.
Publishing the Mudlark
an inspired move
Your decision to publish the “Mudlark” valve amplifier project seems to
be one of those inspired moves. As you
point out, there are quite a number of
readers who have more than a passing interest in the reproduction of re4 Silicon Chip
corded music and valve amplification,
and there seems to be no good reason
to withhold a project that could lead
to much pleasure for these readers.
There are a number of aspects of
the published design that deserve
more than a passing look. Although
some of these would appear to fly in
the face of conventional knowledge
regarding circuit design, many have in
fact been conceptualised through years
of empirical experimentation, rather
than following the agreed scientific approach that would have resulted from
the implementation of the “high-tech”
proposition suggested in your editorial
in the August issue.
I have a sneaking feeling that your
idea of a high-voltage op amp followed
by an ultra-linear valve output stage
with bags of added negative feedback,
would have resulted in a “worst of both
worlds” design that might have measured quite reasonably but produced
a poor sonic result when connected
to real-world speakers in a domestic
listening environment.
As you have pointed out on numerous occasions, if you want an exemplary set of measurements, SILICON
CHIP’s recent solid-state offerings are
virtually unbeatable. That said, there
are still many reasonably sane and
intelligent folk out there who have no
hesitation in selecting an amplifier that
offers a lamentable set of figures but
is capable of delivering an enthralling
musical experience. In my experience,
there are in fact very few solid-state
designs that can boast likewise in a
head-to-head “shoot-out” under controlled listening conditions.
Of course, a good amplifier can send
what appear to be the right electrical
impulses to the speakers and thence to
the listener but in reality, there is often
a huge difference in the enjoyment
level of the resulting musical experiences. I feel that it is long overdue that
technology was better applied just to
give sheer listening enjoyment (as was
the case in the early days of Radio &
Hobbies and John Moyle’s Playmaster
valve circuits) rather than the “mine
is bigger/better/more powerful/less
distorted than yours, so shut up and
listen” situation that is all too common
these days.
The following are a few off-the-cuff
avenues for those interested enough to
actually build the Mudlark:
How many push-pull voltage amplifying stages has the program signal
been subject to during the recording
process? Every one of these has cancelled even harmonic information
and proliferated odd harmonics. What
has this done to the integrity of the
performance? Would it be better to rebalance the signal by putting it through
a circuit such as a single-ended valve
power amplifier which will accentuate
even harmonics and possibly restore
a measure of “authenticity” before it
reaches the ear?
Remembering that an electronically
reproduced listening experience is a
composite of all distortions encountered along the signal route (some
additive, some subtractive) and that
they are many and varied, what does
it matter if the final amplifier introduces a few percent more, provided
always that it is configured so as to
mathematically reduce the corruption
to the information arriving at the ear
of the listener?
It should be noted that recording
studios and their systems, pick-up
cartridges, D/A converters, loudspeakers, etc inherently contribute up to
a couple of percent distortion to the
chain, so what is so appealing about a
power amplifier that only adds .005%
at the end? At best, it will do no more
harm; but neither has it the potential to
add a modifying factor that may undo
some of the existing damage.
For those who would follow this
line of reasoning and are prepared to
think outside the conventional square,
siliconchip.com.au
it is worth reading some of the papers
written by Eduardo de Lima (and others) on the subject of distortions in
audio equipment. There are plenty of
folk with a deep appreciation of music
who feel strongly that the commonly
referred to scientific principles do not
provide all the answers to listening
satisfaction.
SILICON CHIP is to be congratulated
for its preparedness, no matter how
reluctantly, to provide this avenue for
the enquiring hobbyist; after all, isn’t
that what DIY magazines are supposed
to be about?
Kerry Williams,
Applied Physics,
School of Applied Sciences,
RMIT University, Bundoora, Vic.
Comment: we had to check the date
on your email to confirm that it
wasn’t April 1st. You’re winding us
up, right?
The idea of adding lots of even-order
harmonic distortion during playback,
to compensate for any distortion
added during the recording process is
problematical, to say the least. What
people do not realise is that if a system has a high degree of supposedly
“good” low order harmonic distortion, it will also have a high degree of
intermodulation. Intermodulation is
never good!
Interestingly, there is a precedent
for adding distortion. In RCA’s Dynagroove process, the recorded signal
was pre-distorted and dynamically
equalised to compensate for the poor
performance of cheap phonograph
players. At the time, most audiophiles
judged the sonic results to be poor.
Cost of valve amplifiers
not the issue
Your Publisher’s Letter in the August
issue is everything that a level-headed
audiophile should agree with. Except
one thing: “using high quality output
transformers, such a design would cost
well over $1000, which is the main
reason we did not proceed.”
For some of us (non-level headed),
price is not the main consideration. It
is about choice and I hope I will live
long enough to see your $1000 plus
design and have a chance to build it,
as I have built a hundred or so projects
from yours and other magazines. I cannot wait to start on the Mudlark – my
siliconchip.com.au
order was placed the same day I got
hold of your magazine.
I’d like to say one more thing. Reading your magazine is a pleasure and a
joy. I fell in love with electronics when
I turned 10 (46 years ago) and I am still
going strong.
Bob Bozanic,
Traralgon, Vic.
Atmel’s AVR, from
JED in Australia
JED has designed a range of
single board computers and
modules as a way of using the
AVR without SMT board design
Circuit wanted for
Grundig “Satellit” receiver
I have a need for a circuit diagram
for my Grundig Satellit 800 receiver.
Grundig Australia say they have never
heard of it and Grundig USA have not
replied to my query.
I have searched the internet but have
come up with the Users Manual, which
does not have a schematic. Is anyone
able to help? The radio is dead and will
become an expensive boat anchor if I
cannot repair it!
Ray Reaburn,
Mont Albert Nth, Vic.
ray35<at>optusnet.com.au
Digital cameras more
convenient than 35mm
I must say I was very surprised at
your negative reaction to digital cameras (Publisher’s Letter, July 2005),
especially in light of the fact that you
use (have) one in your office. Only
a couple of years ago, I would have
agreed with you. But not now.
I agree you will pay more for digital
than 35mm but five years ago, 35mm
SLRs were about the same price as a
good quality digital is now. It is unfair
to lump all digital cameras as bad because of a single bad choice.
Recently, I went to Antarctica and
took two digital cameras and one
35mm SLR. I could view my digital
photos full size within minutes if I
wanted and preview them seconds
after taking them. I did a backup at
the end of each day and at maximum
quality and image size, never ran out
of “film” (ie, memory card). I used a
single 512Mb card and two 256Mb
cards (one as an emergency). My
laptop could directly read the cards,
so I needed no extra cables. I could
select the good shots and erase the
bad ones.
My 35mm film had to wait until I
returned. There aren’t too many film
labs in Antarctica! One of my rolls
The AVR570 module (above) is a way of
using an ATmega128 CPU on a user base
board without having to lay out the intricate,
surface-mounted surrounds of the CPU, and
then having to manufacture your board on
an SMT robot line. Instead you simply layout
a square for four 0.1” spaced socket strips
and plug in our pre-tested module. The
module has the crystal, resetter, AVR-ISP
programming header (and an optional JTAG
ICE pad), as well as programming signal
switching. For a little extra, we load a DS1305
RTC, crystal and Li battery underneath,
which uses SPI and port G.
See JED’s www site for a datasheet.
AVR573 Single Board Computer
This board uses the AVR570 module and
adds 20 An./Dig. inputs, 12 FET outputs, LCD/
Kbd, 2xRS232, 1xRS485, 1-Wire, power reg.
etc. See www.jedmicro.com.au/avr.htm
$330 PC-PROM Programmer
This programmer plugs into a PC printer
port and reads, writes and edits any 28 or
32-pin PROM. Comes with plug-pack, cable
and software.
Also available is a multi-PROM UV eraser
with timer, and a 32/32 PLCC converter.
JED Microprocessors Pty Ltd
173 Boronia Rd, Boronia, Victoria, 3155
Ph. 03 9762 3588, Fax 03 9762 5499
www.jedmicro.com.au
October 2005 5
Mailbag: continued
was completely blank – the film had
not caught on the sprocket when
winding on. With film, I had no choice
about selecting which shots I wanted;
I had to pay for them all, even the
blank ones.
There has been a lot of comparison
between the cost of film and the cost
of digital. They all assume that you are
going to print every photo you ever
take. What about when you only want
one photo? Is it reasonable to process
an entire film? What about photos for
email or screen-savers? Scanning film
or a print is inconvenient and to do it
at good quality is expensive.
The weight of an SLR and film
would likely be similar to a digital
camera, memory, charger and cables,
so there would be no real saving when
going overseas. The only issue is forgetting bits.
I have never needed to use the eye
viewfinder – the LCD is sufficient for
viewing in direct sunlight with only
minor difficulty. Besides, I can always
check my photos in the shade of my
body after taking them. Most cameras
have many assistance features on the
display – a histogram, a manual focus
assist area, horizon guide lines, etc.
Digital cameras still need work in
the areas of reaction time (time between pressing the button and taking
the photo) but pre-focusing can cut
this dramatically.
Most of all, I want to know when my
photos have turned out, rather than
waiting several thousand kilometres
(and dollars) to find out I had a finger
smudge on my lens!
Despite having both 35mm and
digital cameras, I have used my 35mm
camera for about 30 photos in the
time I have used my digital camera
for about 4000.
Owen Scill,
Canberra, ACT.
Comparing digital cameras
with 35mm equivalents
I read your recent editorial on lowcost digital cameras in the July 2005
issue of SILICON CHIP and have some
comments.
You stated that, on a digicam like
the Olympus C725, the depth of field
6 Silicon Chip
is always poor because, in aperture
priority mode, the lens aperture is
normally wide open at f2.8. Although
this might be so with a 35mm film
camera, with a small digicam this is
not actually the case. The depth of field
of the C725 is quite large, in line with
other small-sensor digicams, and it is
much greater than in DLSRs or 35mm
film cameras.
The reason behind this is that the
C725 uses a tiny 1/2.7” CCD, whose
dimensions are about 5.3mm x 4.0mm,
which is much smaller than a 36 x
24mm frame of 35mm film. Compared
to a 35mm film camera, the cropping
factor for the lens on the C725 is 6.56.
As the C725 has a lens whose focal
length range is 5.9-59mm, when this
cropping factor is applied, the lens
has a field of view equivalent to a 38380mm lens on a 35mm film camera.
One of the by-products of this is that
when the C725’s lens is set to f2.8, it
will have depth of field approximately
equivalent to a 35mm film camera set
to f(2.8 x 6.56) = f18.4. That is a lot of
depth of field! If you stop down to f7
on the C725, then that’s equivalent to
f45.9 on a 35mm film camera.
As it turns out, producing a shallow
depth of field for creative purposes
is one of the inherent problems with
small-sensor digicams. Apart from
other image quality and performance
issues, it is one of the reasons why
many professional photographers tend
to prefer DSLRs, which either offer the
same or slightly greater depth of field
than a 35mm film camera.
Witold Waldman,
via email.
Earthing TV antenna masts
I’d like to thank Neil Hecker for his
tip on reducing STB electrical interference (Possible Cure for STB Electrical
Interference, Mailbag, August 2005),
although it didn’t produce quite the
results I was anticipating!
Rather than earthing the coax, I decided to first try earthing the antenna
mast instead, simply because this was
easier to do. My antenna is mounted
directly above a garden tap which is
“first cab off the rank” after the 20 metres of buried copper pipe that comes
from the water meter. Earths don’t
come much better than that!
Also, I just happened to have some
off-cuts of “monster cable” that you
could start a truck motor with and a
handy pack of assorted hose clamps
from a $2 shop! After some quick work
with some sandpaper and application
of the clamps and monster cable, that
mast was about as grounded as you
can get!
Did it fix the digital TV dropouts?
Well not completely, although it certainly improved the situation. But
what it did do was clean up all the
assorted random interference I used
to get on the analog channels!
Like many people in Sydney’s outerwest, I get better reception of SBS and
the ABC from Wollongong than Artarmon, so I have a band III VHF antenna
pointed at Sydney and a high-gain
UHF antenna pointed at Wollongong.
This also gives me the regional versions of the commercial channels. I
used to get intermittent patterning on
most of the channels which I put down
to meteorologically-induced variations
in signal strength.
But since I’ve earthed the mast, I
haven’t seen a sign of the interference
and the Wollongong commercial channels are now almost indistinguishable
from the Sydney ones!
The intriguing thing is, I later discovered that there’s no electrical connection between the antenna coax and
the mast. Earthing the coax itself is a
bit tricky as separate UHF and VHF
cables are run to the antenna amplifier
which is mounted in a fairly inaccessible spot under the roof tiles. What
I’ll probably do is strip back the outer
jackets of the cables and clamp them
to the mast but I want to make sure I
can waterproof everything properly
before I try that!
Anyway, it was an unexpected and
amazing improvement for very little
outlay!
Keith Walters,
via email.
Induction loop
interference to video
I read with interest the letter from
correspondent G. C. in the “Ask Silicon Chip” pages of the August 2005
issue, in regards to induction loop
interference to a video projector.
siliconchip.com.au
As background, I have worked for
several years for Audio Telex Communications who sell the Ampetronic
range of hearing induction loop drivers
and currently work for a sister com-pany – Crestron Control Solutions. At the
contemporary church of which I am
a member, I have set up a reasonably
complex video projection system that
runs alongside a high-power hearing
induction loop fed from a 24-channel
audio mixer. We feed all computer
and video sources into a Kramer scaler
which converts numerous formats
into RGBHV (SVGA) and then send
that signal to the projector over 35m
of high-quality cable.
Here are some extra insights that
may be useful to G. C. I am assuming
that he is sending data to the projector via RGBHV: I have found that it is
important to use 5-core coaxial cable
not 3-core, with data. It sounds as if
he has induced noise on the horizontal
or vertical sync signals (or both). He
should ensure that the red, green and
blue signals in particular do not have
their earth connections tied together
in the cable as this defeats the purpose
of the transmission line, allowing ingress of nasties such as ghosting and
smearing. Horizontal and vertical sync
are effectively digital signals and so
their sharing an earth is not so much
of an issue.
Cables that I have used with great
success are Canare V5-1.5C and Eurocable RGBYCD3. These can be terminated directly onto HD-15 connectors
but it is a difficult job fitting everything
into the backshell without shorting
things out (heatshrink is your friend
here). These cables are also quite expensive (about $10 per metre) but in
my experience, worth every cent.
No cabling should be run parallel in
close proximity (within two metres) to
a hearing loop. Cables should cross the
loop at 90° to minimise interference.
This includes audio and mains cabling
where possible.
If at all possible, the projector
should be “flown” (suspended), as
this removes it as much as possible
from the plane of the loop where the
field strength is at its greatest. It also
helps remove the signal cable from
harm’s way.
Again, if at all possible, run the
projector from the same mains circuit
siliconchip.com.au
as the rest of the video system.
If feeding audio from the video
system to the audio system, try using
an isolation transformer to break the
earth connection between the two
sub-systems.
It may be possible that the loop is
being over-driven and is producing
much more field than is required by
AS 1088.4. Valuable insights into the
workings of hearing induction loop
systems can be obtained from the
Ampetronic web site (www.ampetronic.com).
I would strongly advise using a
professional installer for a loop system
as they will have access to design and
analysis tools to correctly set up the
system and deal with problems such
as interfering fields from bad mains
installations or field reduction caused
by structural steel elements. It is also
worthwhile to procure a loop listening device for testing and confidence
issues.
From my reading of G. C.’s letter,
he was sending RGBHV (ie, VGA or
better) to his projector, not composite
video. I believe that you can get 2.4GHz
KVM switches that are good for up to
30 metres or so but would be nervous
about that solution, particularly with
the crowding of the 2.4GHz band that
we’ve seen recently. Call me a Neanderthal but I prefer cable over wireless
any day.
A number of manufacturers have
systems that convert RGBHV into a
format that can be transmitted down
Cat.5e or Cat.6 cable (and be reconstituted cleanly at the other end). One
is the Crestron QuickMedia system
that can encode RBGHV (1600x1280),
composite video, Y/C or component
and send it (along with audio) down
up to 100 metres of Cat.5e cable in a
balanced format.
These products are more than
just baluns; they involve serious
amounts of signal processing and are
not generally end-user installable.
They are, however, finding homes in
many university lecture theatres and
classrooms, as the systems can be
monitored remotely (via an Ethernet
connection) using Crestron’s Roomview software.
Phil Moore,
Crestron Control Solutions,
Silverwater, NSW.
XL-02
Quality Speaker Kits
sound advice call 08 8295 4271
or visit our website www.kitaudio.com
prices start from $995.00
(also available fully assembled)
Ozitronics
www.ozitronics.com
Tel: (03) 9434 3806 Fax: (03) 9011 6220
Email: sales2005<at>ozitronics.com
series of 4 kits used to send &
RF Data Link Kits Areceive
data over a 433MHz link.
K173. Tx with serial data input
K174. Rx with serial data output
K175. Tx with parallel data input
K176. Rx with parallel data output
Each receiver has a 4-bit address set by an
onboard DIP switch, allowing up to 16
receivers to be used in a network.
Documentation includes examples of how
to use with other kits for remote operation.
K173, K175 - $52.80
K174, K176 - $60.50
Prices include GST – shipping extra.
Full documentation available from website.
October 2005 7
8 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Everyone who has seen a demonstration of Google Earth
is gobsmacked. Mind boggled. Blown away. Hey, we’re
not given to exaggeration – but we’ve got to agree. It is
gobsmacking, mind boggling and blowing away!
And the best part of all about Google Earth: it’s free!
F
or computer users in the 21st
century, it’s hard to imagine life
before Google. Only invented in
1998, Google has already entered the
lexicon as a fully-fledged verb in its
own right. You don’t search on line
any more. You Google!
Even if its name is an accident
(Google was supposed to have been
spelled Googol, a number with 1 and
a hundred zeros, or 10100), Google itself is no accident! But there is far, far
more to Google than “just” the world’s
most popular search engine. Whether
by acquisition or in-house development, Google has become an enormous
powerhouse in the computing world.
Here’s just a small selection of Google’s
add-ons and other “products”:
Google News – aggregated headlines
and a search engine of many of the
world’s news sources.
Froogle – a product search engine
and shopping directory. Assists consumers with locating products for sale
online by presenting photos of relevant
products.
Blogger – a tool to make Web log
publishing very easy.
Google Toolbar – a toolbar featuring
a Google search bar, as well as other
Google tools. As of July 2005, Google
Toolbar is available for two browsers,
four operating systems and in ten
languages.
Google Deskbar – search tool which
runs from the Microsoft Windows
taskbar, without a browser having to
be open.
Google Desktop – where your search
is internal; that is, within your own
computer.
Google Groups – join (or even create)
discussion groups, mailing lists and
newsgroups.
Google News Alerts – Specify a topic
and receive email updates when news
breaks.
Google Web Alerts – Find out about
new web pages on a topic of interest.
Google Glossary – Find definitions
siliconchip.com.au
by Ross Tester
for words, phrases and acronyms.
Google Search by location – Restrict
your search to a geographic area.
We could go on listing all day – but
that would hardly leave room for the
real feature of this article: Google
Earth. If you’d like to go through all
that Google itself has to offer, have a
look at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/
Google_Groups
Google themselves say their company
philosophy is built on a 70/20/10 rule:
they spend 70% of company resources
on core business – like search engines;
20% on closely related areas (like
news), while the remaining 10% is
where their engineers run amok producing oddball projects which don’t
fit anywhere but which are fun and/or
interesting and/or groundbreaking.
But wait, there’s more!
Some time back Google bought
a little organisation called Keyhole
Corporation. Reports suggested the
main reason they bought it was that
Keyhole was working on, and had just
about completed, a highly innovative
project. Google renamed that project
Google Earth.
Without too much fanfare, Google
Earth was announced to the planet at
the end of June this year. And without
wanting to get into hyperbole, I would
describe Google Earth as “mind blowing”. Everyone who has seen it (and
I’ve shown anyone who would watch!)
is astounded.
Google Earth is over-simply described as an image of the Earth, a globe
if you will, which sits inside your PC
monitor.
When Google Earth fully loads,
(and it can take a good half minute
on a typical broadband connection),
a beautiful view of the Earth against a
star background is revealed from some
38,500 miles (62,000km) out in space.
Not surprisingly (considering where
it was developed, it shows North
America. . . from sea to shining sea. But
you can also “turn” the globe in any
direction to reveal the whole planet.
It looks pretty spectacular.
Ho-hum? You’re not turned on by
this? Anyone can display a nice picture?
Come on down to my house...
What if I told you that with the click
of a mouse button, you can “fly” from
right out in space to any point on that
globe – right down to your own neighbourhood, almost right down to your
own backyard (in some cases, into your
own backyard!). You can zoom in, and
in, and in – down to virtual ground
level, in near-perfect clarity? Not quite
so ho-hum any more?
Twist it, tilt it, move it . . .
Here’s another of Google Earth’s
absolutely amazing features. With
another click or two, you can tilt the
view from straight down (plan) right
through any angle down to horizontal
(elevation). It’s not yet perfect – but by
the same token, it’s not bad!
And if you don’t like the view you’re
getting, you can turn it through any
point of the compass. You can flick
back and forward between plan and
elevation. There’s even a one-button
“back to north” setting.
And at any time, you can move the
whole view in any direction with four
compass points on the toolbar. Hitting
the red button at their centre will lock
the centre of the screen so if you turn
or tilt you stay viewing the area you
are interested in.
You can reveal terrain, main roads,
country and state borders . . .
As you move around or up and
down, you will note that the screen is
constantly updating. Google Earth is
refereshing images “on the fly” from its
obviously immense image database.
Note that as yet, you cannot access
October 2005 9
hi-res images everywhere – this is an
immense undertaking and will take
some time – if ever – to complete (it’s
actually still in beta form). They are
obviously concentrating on the major
population areas and working down.
Deja Vu?
The lonely planet from 30,000 miles.
Almost home! 15,000 miles out in space.
Some SILICON CHIP readers will be
experiencing a sense of deja-vu. Something sounds familiar about all this?
Back in May 1999, we introduced
you to the “Terraserver” website
which also offered “pictures from
space,” with quite good resolution
in some areas (especially if you paid
for them).
That website has undergone quite a
downgrade, where now it appears to
offer USA images only – but even in
its heyday it was nothing like Google
Earth. For ease of use, features, clarity, value – Google Earth beats it every
time. Terraserver never had anything
like the features of Google Earth we’ve
already covered, let alone the bits we
haven’t looked at yet.
What about World Wind?
We’ve zoomed in to just 3,500 miles . . .
Here’s the view from 1000 miles up.
You may or may not have heard
of another, somewhat similar, site to
Google Earth, set up by NASA. It’s
called World Wind and it’s an 80MB
download from worldwind.arc.nasa.
gov/download.html. But in our brief
look we found it doesn’t offer anything
like the features of Google Earth. It
is free, though, so you might like to
have a play.
The biggest difference between the
two is that World Wind has all its images pre-downloaded; Google Earth
updates its images literally “on the
fly” – more on this aspect shortly.
And while mentioning alternatives,
there is yet another Google offering, at
the moment still in beta and certainly
not complete, called Google Maps.
Like Google Earth (even yet) it is very
much more “finished” when it comes
to the USA but even it its limited state
it looks very promising. However, at
the moment there are other “map”
sites which offer far more, such as
whereis.com,Yahoo and MSN.
Fly to Paris . . .
At 100 miles, starting to see features.
10 Silicon Chip
In some major world cities (particularly US and UK) most major roads are
named. Click on “buildings” and all
of the major buildings are outlined.
When you tilt from plan to elevation
at (near) ground level, the buildings
become, well, buildings. (A tip: try this
on London and New York City).
You can also highlight major roads,
places of interest, show the terrain or
turn it off (it’s less confusing that way),
show state and country borders, show
restaurants and hotels (we’ll look more
closely at that feature later),
And before I forget, one of the most
intriguing features of Google Earth: as
you might expect (being from Google),
it has search features. But they’re
extremely powerful: for example, the
“Fly to” search. Simply type in the
name of the place you want to go to
(eg, Paris, France) and Google Earth
“flies” you there. Up, up and away
– across countries, oceans, even the
poles, until you descend into your
destination. And I mean into – right
down to ground level! You really do
have to experience this one!
Resolution
In high resolution, the images,
which appear to be taken from a variety of satellites, are stunning in their
clarity. Individual buildings, even
houses, are clearly visible. So are cars
and trucks on city streets. Many are so
good that you can clearly pick out car
windscreens – and some even better!
It would appear that the image resolution/quality has a lot to do with the
source; also the “haziness” of the day
in the particular city would affect it.
In low resolution, you cannot see
individual buildings. The general “lie
of the land” is relatively clear and you
can pick out major landmarks such as
big bridges and so on.
In hi-res, there is an optimum point
to view detail – about 500 feet above
ground level appears to be best. Any
lower than this and images tend to
become grainy and show artefacts.
That’s not to say you can’t go lower –
of course you can.
When I first saw Google Earth,
about six weeks prior to writing this,
it was not long after the London terrorist attacks. At the time, there was
considerable (misguided!!) newspaper
and TV reporting about the fact that on
Google Earth you could see the ANSTO atomic reactor at Lucas Heights
(south of Sydney) in great detail – and
they showed it on the evening news, to
prove it! “Authorities” were calling on
the reactor site image to be pixellated
on Google Earth.
In their typical “grab a story and beat it
up” manner, the media failed to mention
siliconchip.com.au
Google Earth gets
a lot of its imagery
from DigitalGlobe’s
“QuickBird” eye-in-thesky. This satellite orbits
the planet at 450km and
has a resolution as low
as 61cm on the Earth’s
surface. Even this will
be greatly improved
early next year when
the their “WorldView”
satellite is launched. It
will have a much higher
orbit but even better
resolution.
the fact that you could type “ANSTO”
into whitepages.com.au and get the
street address, then go to whereis.com,
type in the street address . . . and up
comes a map with the word “ANSTO”
actually shown in place! Hmmmm.
I digress. At that time, some capital cities (Brisbane, Adelaide, Perth,
Canberra especially) fared very well
when it came to hi-res images. Much of
Melbourne was, at least then, lo-res, a
lot more obscured by cloud. Even some
major centres like the Gold Coast were
in hi-res (but not the Sunshine Coast).
Unfortunately for me, Sydney was
also about 50% lo-res. For those who
know Sydney, everywhere south of the
city was brilliant but the city itself and
anywhere north were not.
Not being able to view my own area
at the time, I decided to find my mum’s
place on the Gold Coast. Zooming in
and following the Pacific Motorway
north was dead easy – then I got to the
familiar exit ramps at Mudgeeraba. I
followed the road along until I turned
off towards Mum’s retirement village.
Next I zoomed right in and was easily
able to pick out her villa.
It was so clear I almost expected to
see her standing in the front garden
waving to the satellite . . .
The above paragraph gives us
land-bound novices a good clue on
how Google Earth is best navigated.
“Flying” over large areas and finding
objects is not quite as simple as it
sounds – just ask any pilot who’s had
to learn to navigate. The view is a lot
different from “up there”!
The trick is to find something that
you do know and follow roads, railways, rivers etc, to where you want
to go.
The exact latitude and longitude of
siliconchip.com.au
where the cursor is located is shown
at the bottom of the screen – I’ve made
a note of various things I might want
to go back to.
And when I say exact, it is that:
it’s calibrated to degrees, minutes,
seconds, tenths and hundredths of
seconds. (At the equator, a degree is
about 69.16 miles or 111.11km, so a
minute is about 1.85km and a second
about 30.8m. That makes a hundredth
of a second just 30cm – about a foot in
the old money!)
30 miles (160,000 ft) – becoming clearer.
30,000 ft right over the centre of Sydney.
Oooh –it’s changed!
Very recently, I was idly “playing”
with Google Earth (it still fascinates
me!), once again looking at Sydney.
Hey, what’s this? All of Sydney City
now in hi-res – you could even see the
shadows of the Harbour Bridge on the
water! Oh, bliss!
So I quickly “flew” up the northern
beaches and, sure enough, hi-res images greeted me for at least most of the
way. As (good!) luck would have it, the
hi-res images ended about 500 metres
beyond my place! Yay!
And I must admit our publisher was
pretty chuffed when I showed him his
mansion in glorious hi-res . . .
This demonstrates the evolving nature of Google Earth. As new images
become available (and obviously the
time to work on them) they will be
implemented into Google Earth. Our
deductions, from looking at homes and
buildings under construction in our
area, is that the image was captured
about February or March of this year.
The image of southern Brisbane, while
hi-res, is about two years old. I can see
a town house I now own still “under
construction” (in fact it is just a patch
of dirt!) – and I’ve been paying for it for
10,000 ft and the city streets are visible.
1,000 feet above the Opera House
Finally, 500 feet – yep, those are people!
October 2005 11
more than a year since completion!
Who supplies the images?
Here’s what happens when you
highlight the “buildings” button: all of
the major buildings in New York City
appear, complete with shadows!
All of the images which come up on
Google Earth are copyrighted to various
organisations. Brisbane closeup, for example, is copyrighted to DigitalGlobe,
while as you zoom out, the copyright
changes to EarthSat.
DigitalGlobe appear to own their own
satellite – QuickBird, launched in 2001,
which orbits at an altitude of 450km, in
a 98°, sun-synchronous orbit.
They claim it is the only spacecraft
able to offer sub-metre resolution imagery, industry-leading geo-locational
accuracy, 128GBits of data storage
and an imaging footprint 2 to 10 times
larger than any other commercial highresolution satellite.
Its resolution is 61cm panchromatic
and 2.44m multispectral. With a swath
(image capturing path width) 16.5km
wide, every year QuickBird collects
over 75 million square kilometres of
imagery data.
But even that will be overshadowed
by DigitalGlobe’s next satellite. Scheduled to launch no later than 2006,
WorldView will be the world’s only
commercial satellite to snap pictures
of the Earth at 50cm resolution.
The satellite’s higher orbit, at nearly
800km, will allow it to revisit collection areas more frequently – about once
a day. The WorldView system will include more efficient image processing
systems and multi-satellite collection
planning, shorter tasking timelines and
an expanded network of remote ground
terminals. DigitalGlobe’s imaging constellation combining WorldView and
QuickBird will be capable of collecting
more than 4.5 times the imagery of any
current commercial imaging system.
By late 2006, WorldView alone will
be capable of collecting nearly 500,000
And now look what happens when
you “tilt” the image. We’re at about
45° here – you can go down almost to
ground level if you wish!
To prove the point, here’s the elevation view of Manhattan from 90 feet.
This actually has the “terrain” feature
switched on but NYC is fairly flat . . .
A section of lower Manhattan, New
York City, from 1 mile up. The brown
area top centre-left of the pic is where
the World Trade Centre once stood.
They are a bit indistinct at this
size‑ but each one of the labels
shows either a restaurant or hotel.
Advertisers pay to have their business
names appear.
12 Silicon Chip
square kilometers (200,000 square
miles) per day of half-metre imagery.
EarthSat, on the other hand, uses
a variety of satellites including the
various Landsats, SPOT, IRS, IKONOS,
Terra, JERS, AVHRR, OrbView and
DigitalGlobe’s QuickBird. Depending
on the swath, and therefore the resolution, some of these satellites have a
revisit time as short as 1 day (Spot-4,
2200km swath) while JERS-1 has a
much narrower 75km swath and takes
44 days to revisit.
Some areas, especially the USA,
appear to switch to aerial, as distinct
from satellite, imaging at low heights
(for example, New York City close-up
images are from The Sanborn Map
Company, Inc).
With these images, you can actually
see people on the city streets, even
street light poles! You can’t quite see
the leaves on the trees but you can
certainly pick out branches . . .
What does it cost?
We have already mentioned that the
basic version of Google Earth is, at least
currently, a free download. But using
it does have a cost!
The price you pay is in the bandwidth you are paying for as you use it.
And that can cost you plenty, depending on the particular broadband plan
you are on.
When talking to some friends about
Google Earth, one made a comment
about it being a “bandwidth muncher”
and very costly to use.
So I did some investigating on this
line and, as they say in the classics,
there is good news and bad news.
We’ll start with the bad news. We
mentioned earlier that the pages
update “on the fly” using streaming
technology.
A general rule of thumb for streaming
Just 150 feet above a bus stop in The
Battery area (lower left of other pics).
The clarity of view is sensational –
one day it may all be this good!
siliconchip.com.au
video usage is about 2MB per minute.
Using a downloaded shareware
utility called Networx (www.softperfect.com) we monitored Google Earth
usage and confirmed this to be about
right: usually about 25-35KB per second, which does equate to roughly
2MB per minte.
So if you were constantly using
Google Earth for an hour, you could
easily eat up 120MB of your allowed
bandwidth – not very good if you’re on
one of the cheapie 150MB or 200MB
per month plans!
But here’s where the good news
comes in. Unless you are constantly
changing positions or views, the
streaming doesn’t continually occur.
In fact, for significant periods of time,
our usage meter was saying perhaps
1-5KB per second, an average of perhaps 100KB per minute: much more
user (and wallet) friendly.
The moral of the story is that like any
streaming source, you should keep your
eye on your usage. It’s easy to exceed
your plan limits and some ISPs charge
like wounded bulls once you do so.
More Google Earth power?
Google Earth is also available in
two higher-featured versions, neither
of which is free (but one is pretty
cheap).
Google Earth Plus is an optional
upgrade adding GPS device support,
the ability to import spreadsheets,
drawing tools and better printing. It
costs $US20.00.
Further upmarket is a version for
professional and commercial uses,
Google Earth Pro. It is described as
the ultimate research, presentation and
collaboration tool for location information. Google Earth Pro makes location
Hi, mum! One
of those villas
is her place on
the Gold Coast.
The images, from
450km away,
are so clear I
almost expected
to see my mother
standing in the
front garden
waving to the
satellite . . .
siliconchip.com.au
What you need
Google Earth itself is a free (and relatively small – around 10MB) download.
You can find it on http://earth.google.com
However, you’re going to need some reasonable firepower to run it.
If your PC is, say, over four years old (even two years old in the case of
many notebooks), forget it!
The minimum hardware configuration is:
* CPU speed: Intel® Pentium® PIII 500 MHz
* System memory (RAM): 128MB
* 200MB hard-disk space
* 3D graphics card: 3D-capable video card with 16MB VRAM
* 1024x768, 32-bit true color screen
* Operating system: Windows 2000, Windows XP
Recommended configuration:
* CPU speed: Intel® Pentium® P4 2.4GHz+ or AMD 2400xp+
* System memory (RAM): 512MB
* 2GB hard-disk space
* 3D graphics card: 3D-capable video card with 32MB VRAM or greater
* 1280x1024, 32-bit true color screen
* Operating system: Windows XP
Internet Connection
As we said earlier in the article, Google Earth downloads its image data as you
go to that location (it’s called “streaming”). A broadband connection is essential
– preferably a fast one. Minimum speed for practical use would be 128kbps but
you will get much more satisfactory results with a 768kbps – or even faster –
broadband (ADSL/Cable/Wireless) connection.
research and presentation easy.
Google Earth Pro costs $US400
but there is a 7-day free trial offer
to find out if it is what you need or
want. Google Earth Pro itself has a
number of add-on modules, each
priced at $US200 – Movie Making
Module; Premium Printing Module;
GIS Data Importing Module; GDT
Traffic Counts Data; and NRB Shopping Centre Data.
You’ll find more information about
these modules on http://earth.google.
com/earth_pro.html along with a lot
more information about Google Earth
itself.
How does Google Earth make
money?
I cannot believe the number of people
who have said “if it’s a free download,
how does Google make money?”
Google Earth is more or less an extension of Google’s search engine technology. Just as restaurants currently pay
to advertise in the media, they will
pay (and already are paying) to have
their name – and location – come up
on Google Earth when you are looking
for somewhere to eat in that area (again,
check out New York City).
That’s just one example. Google rates
are low by comparison to other forms
of media – as a global organisation they
don’t have to charge much because the
market is so huge – and growing.
And finally, you may have heard
recently reports that Google founders
Larry Page and Sergey Brin recently
knocked back an offer of $3 billion
from News Ltd.
Is there money in Googling? We
think there might be a few cents here
and there. . .
SC
October 2005 13
It’s not Power over Ethernet . . .
NetComm NP210:
Ethernet Over Power
T
here’s a rather clever ad on TV
at the moment which has the tag
“isn’t it nice when things just
work”. I’m sure you’ve seen it. While
this review has nothing to do with a
Honda car, it has everything to do with
things “just working”.
It’s so nice to find a product which
not only delivers what it promises – it
does it without any hassle, any setup
difficulties. It just works!
Over the years, we’ve looked at many
types of computer networks, some in
considerable depth.
This month, it’s another type of network. But it is quite different in that,
while it is wired, the wiring is already
in place in your home or office. This
network uses the power lines running
through the building (and even beyond)
as the network. It’s called Ethernet Over
Power (EOP)
Ethernet over power does exactly
what its name suggests – there is no
wireless, no Cat5, no coax – the 240VAC
power wiring, as well as supplying
14 Silicon Chip
power, supplies the network connection.
In other words, the data stream is superimposed onto the mains at significantly
higher frequency that the 50Hz mains
– in fact, it’s in the several MHz range.
Using power lines for networking has
been in the pipeline (no pun intended!)
for some years, with various systems set
up here and overseas to test it out.
To our knowledge, this is the first
system to actually reach it to market, at
least here in Australia. There are other
power line systems currently becoming
available which offer broadband over
power lines – we understand trials have
been conducted in Australia but so far,
we haven’t heard of anything further.
First, let’s explain the NetComm
HomePlug system. As our photo shows,
it looks like a pair of plugpacks and a
couple of Ethernet connection cables.
And, apart from a CD loaded with software and manuals-on-disk, that’s exactly
what you appear to get when you open
the package.
But those “plugpacks” are not quite
what they seem. Yes, there is a power
supply built into them. But they also
contain the “smarts” which turn them
into network adaptors.
Each terminal on the network requires
one of these plugpacks. The basic package contains two plugpacks; you simply
buy as many as you need, up to the
maximum of 15 terminals.
Also, each of the terminals needs to
be on the same wiring circuit, or phase.
That’s usually not so much of a problem
in a home setup because most homes
are fed by a single phase. In an office, it
might not be quite so simple because all
three phases are used in many cases to
distribute loads – and this system cannot
cross from one phase to another.
NetComm claim a range of up to 200
metres, which is far more than most
LANs would need. We weren’t able to
confirm that range because we couldn’t
easily get two houses 200m apart on the
same phase! However, we did confirm a
range of more than 70m plus, with the
aid of a long extension lead and a pair
siliconchip.com.au
by Ross Tester
Product Review
of notebook computers.
But we are getting slightly ahead of
ourselves. At the outset, we said that the
systems simply works. And it does.
There is a Quickstart card in the box
which basically tells you what to do:
load the driver software, plug the adaptors into power and the Ethernet cables
into the appropriate (RJ45) sockets on
your PC and on the adaptors – and
that’s it.
It just works!
So I followed the Quickstart card –
and away it went! No problems whatsoever. The two computers found each
other without any problems at all and I
was able to transfer data back and forward, examine one’s hard drives from
the other, etc etc – exactly as I could
have done had they been connected via
my wireless network (which of course I
disabled first) or via a “normal” Ethernet
(wired) network.
One curious thing: on one PC the
signal strength meter told me I had
excellent signal (100%, in fact); on the
other PC, it told me the signal strength
was low. No, I don’t have a clue why!
Working from one to the other and vice
versa appeared to be pretty much identical, with plenty of speed, etc.
Speaking of speed, how fast? The
specifications say that they are up to
14Mbps – faster than 10base-T networks
but not as fast as 100base-T; faster than
802.11b wireless but not as fast as
802.11g wireless. I was able to confirm
this as pretty accurate.
Like any network, speed depends to a
large degree on distance; as I mentioned
before, I wasn’t able to stretch mine out
to the 200m maximum but room-to-
room, it worked like a charm.
As far as speed is concerned, 10baseT and 802.11b networks are more than
adequate for surfing the ’net – therefore
Netcomm’s HomePlug system was too.
For the vast majority of users, speed
would not be an issue.
But if you are after maximum throughput (or more likely have a lot of highlevel users trying to use the network
at the same time), the speed limitation
might start to become relevant.
The question will obviously arise:
what happens if your next-doorneighbour decides to put in the same
system? At the risk of sounding smart,
nothing – if not only because the way
power wiring is distributed in Australia,
adjacent homes are almost always on
different phases.
But that’s not the only reason – the
NetComm HomePlug has 56-bit DES
encryption with key management; it also
operates on a large number of channels
over its 4.3–20.9MHz operating band.
Netcomm’s marketing is directed at
people who (a) cannot or do not want
to install a wired network – such as flat
dwellers, renters, etc; and/or (b) want
Internet access from various rooms as
simply as possible.
The system is highly suited to both
these groups – as it is to small businesses, conferences, consultants – in
fact, anyone who needs to set up a
network quickly and easily.
Recommended price of the NetComm
NP210 HomePlug system is around
$199, although we have seen it advertised up to $45 cheaper!
For more information, including
online suppliers, visit www.netcomm.
com.au/Networking/eop.php
SC
It really is as simple as 1-2-3:
(1) Connect a HomePlug to your
ADSL or cable modem using the
supplied cable;
(2) Plug that HomePlug into a
convenient power socket and the
other HomePlug into a socket close
by your PC (or game console); and
(3) Connect the other PC to the
HomePlug.
OK, there is are 4 – All you need to
do now is run the driver software
contained on the CD supplied with
the kit – and that’s pretty much it!
(Graphic courtesy NetComm)
siliconchip.com.au
NP210 TECHNICAL
SPECIFICATIONS
PROTOCOL/STANDARDS
• HomePlug 1.0 specification, IEEE 802.3
10 Base-T Ethernet (10Mbps) compliant
• 10Mbps AutoMDI/MDIx Support
• 14 Mbps HomePlug 1.0 compatible
• CSMA/CA MAC Control
MODULATION SUPPORT
• OFDM, DQPSK, DBPSK, ROBO
Carrier Modulation Support
FREQUENCY BAND
• 4.3MHz ~ 20.9MHz
QUALITY OF SERVICE
• Forward Error Correction (FEC) support
• Channel Adaptation ensures that signal
integrity is maintained even under harsh
noise environment
• CSMA/CA with prioritisation and
Automatic Repeat Request (ARQ) for
reliable delivery of Ethernet packets
via Packet Encapsulation
• Four Level prioritised random access
method
• Segment bursting and contention-free
access ensures high throughput while
maintaining low latency response and
jitter performance
SECURITY SUPPORT
• 56-bit DES Encryption with key
management for secure powerline
communications (Use Windows
platform to enable encryption)
PLATFORM SUPPORT
• Windows 98SE, Me, 2000 or XP
POWER SUPPLY
• Integrated 240V AC supply via power
socket
EXTERNAL CONNECTORS
• 1x electrical power socket
• 1x RJ45 for 10 Base-T ethernet
(Auto MDI/MDIx)
APPROVALS
• C-Tick
• Energy Authority Approval - Q050207
SYSTEM REQUIREMENTS:
• Windows operating systems with Ethernet
connection, Pentium II 300MHz MMXCompatible PC or greater, minimum
64MB hard disk space and memory,
CD-ROM drive
• Maximum of 15 devices connected to
power line network
• All HomePlugs must be on the same
power circuit
PACKAGE CONTENTS
• 2 x NP210 HomePlug Adaptors
• 2 x RJ45 10/100 ethernet cables
• 1 x configuration/manual CD
• 1 x Quick Start Guide
October 2005 15
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
dicksmith.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
dicksmith.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
dicksmith.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
dicksmith.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
dicksmith.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
dicksmith.com.au
Can your USB port take the heat?
DEAD SIMPLE USB
BREAKOUT “BOX”
The USB port has made PC expansion so delightfully simple it’s
a wonder no-one thought of it before . . . but it has its limitations.
Most PC users are completely unaware of this and wonder why the
computer starts giving error messages or the USB devices themselves
either stop working or misbehave. Here’s a really simple way to find
out what those devices are doing. . .
C
omputer interfacing via Universal Serial Bus (USB) ports,
in either 12Mbps (Version 1.1)
or more recent 480Mbps (Version 2.0)
offerings, has deservedly become such
an indispensable connection method
that it’s hard to realise USB has only
been in use for just five years.
Apart from seamless “smart” data
connections for digital cameras, flash
RAM dongles, WiFi adapters, modems
and mice, etc, the availability of a
regulated 5V DC supply at relatively
generous currents has also lead to such
diverse “dumb” devices as mobile
phone chargers, coffee cup warmers,
cooling fans and inspection lights.
Dumb, of course, refers to the hi22 Silicon Chip
tech USB data lines (middle pins 2
and 3) being ignored and just the low
voltage DC being exploited at (outer)
pins 1 and 4.
The PC’s USB port can supply up
to 500mA <at>5V; however, downstream
ports on USB devices are generally
limited to 100mA maximum.
Although it may be considered
frivolous to use a $1000 PC to just
power a light or charge batteries, the
computer may be on anyway and
equipment powered by the 5V USB
supply is often conveniently associated with one’s needs at the time.
by Stan Swan*
Cold coffee, when trying to tame a
late night spreadsheet macro, can easily ruin one’s concentration!
The USB specification allows up to
5m of connecting cable, since signal
timing issues may give data corruption
with longer lengths. However, basic
DC electrical issues also arise, with
heavier currents giving unacceptable
supply line voltage drops that infringe
typical 5V ±0.25V load electronics
needs.
As an example, Ohm’s law tells us
if 250mA is flowing through a wire of
resistance 0.5W, then a tolerable drop
of I x R = 0.25 x 0.5 = 0.125 Volts will
occur.
This wire with the 500mA maxisiliconchip.com.au
mum load, however, would drop
0.25V and deliver only a borderline
4.75V to the load, which may therefore
work unreliably.
An additional issue relates to the
power needs of the numerous items
now in use. Even with short cable
lengths, multiple USB devices (and
up to 127 are possible!) can eventually
demand more current than is permitted, with resulting port shutdown.
Unpowered hubs are particularly
prone to this, which explains the need
for powered USB hubs that will cater
for multiple energy-hungry add-ons.
Alternatively, a simple USB power
injector could be used with an unpowered hub to achieve the same result.
SILICON CHIP published such a project in the October 2004 issue, capable
of supplying 5V DC <at>1A to a USB
device. Need more power than this
for other devices? Add more power
injectors!
Even though itself now threatened
by other advances in technology,
Bluetooth is finally making a solid
showing. Particular interest in verifying the output power of USB Bluetooth
adaptors has therefore arisen.
The three Bluetooth classes have
decreasing wireless power and range,
and innocent purchase of a low power
Class 2 adaptor may frustrate when
Pin 1: +5V
Pin 3: Data 2
Pin 2: Data 1
Pin 4: 0V
The connections to a USB type-A
plug (the one that goes into your PC).
range has to be maximised. The most
powerful Class 1 is typically good to
100m, with Class 2 some 10m and
Class 3 just a metre “across a motherboard”.
Although not specified in classes,
Here’s Stan’s prototype USB breakout “box”, potted in some hot-melt glue. The
idea is to poke your multimeter probes into the terminal block (avoiding shorts)
for voltage measurements; for current measurements, you remove the header
pin shorting block and connect your multimeter in series.
(instead usually having power quoted
in dBm [15dBi = 101.5 ~ 40mW]),
increasingly popular USB WiFi adaptors also differ significantly in their
transmitter output power.
This is especially important when
some distance from an Access Point
since you may be able to “hear” its
strong signals – but it may not sense
your weak out-going ones.
Given these issues, it’s surprising
USB supply breakout adaptors haven’t
become readily available, since simple current and voltage measurement
of assorted loads can be extremely
revealing, especially if device specs
are being stretched.
Make your own!
With the cheapness of short USB
M-F cables and DMMs, a simple supply breakout adaptor can quickly be
organised by just cutting the cable.
Position of the cut is unimportant –
BRAID, GREEN & WHITE
CABLES REJOINED
(SOLDERED) AND
HEATSHRINK INSULATED
CABLE
CLAMP
USB
SOCKET (M)
USB CABLE
TWO-WAY
TERMINAL
BLOCK
siliconchip.com.au
CABLE
CLAMP
RED &
BLACK
PAINT
(TEXTA)
HEADER
PIN
BASE
USB
SOCKET (F)
just ensure the data wires (usually
green and white) and the braid are
neatly resoldered and heatshrink covered, with no mischievous whiskers
from the braided shield!
A small terminal block makes for
convenient voltage test points across
the red and black supply wires – even
though a DMM won’t be worried by
reverse polarity, we painted our terminal block red and black with a Texta
pen to identify “+” and “–”.
For current measurement (which of
course must be in series), we included
a 2-pin header pin base in the +ve
(red) wire.
To measure current, the shorting
block is removed revealing a handy
pair of terminals for our multimeter
clip leads.
Overleaf are some sample measured
currents, using a short 600mm cable to
typical loads, supplied from a mainspowered Toshiba laptop:
This diagram shows how it can be
done – slightly more permanently
than the glue version above. We
used a small block of timber to
mount it on – but just about any
non-conductive base would be
fine. The header pin base was
glued to the timber using hot
melt; small wood-screws hold
both cable clamps and the 2-way
terminal block in place.
October 2005 23
Device
Measured load current
(may vary with load demands)
Pocket 40GB
USB Hard Disk
300mA
Atmel “b” WLAN
adaptor DSE XH7947 (2002)
270mA
DSE “b” WLAN
adaptor XH6822 (2004)
90mA
Genius “g” WLAN
adaptor GW-7200U
63mA
Logitech Quick Cam(2000)
60mA
“My Flash” 256MB
Flash RAM
DSE Class 1 BlueTooth
dongle (2003) XH4104
50mA
48.5mA
“Itsy-Bitsy” USB LED lamp
(ref SILICON CHIP, March 2002)
30mA
Genius Mini Traveller
USB mouse
10mA
Prolific USB-serial D9
adaptor (Picaxe use)
8mA
Olympus C-1 digital camera
< 1mA
(64MB Smart Media). Perhaps
camera batteries supplying too?
This laptop PC’s unloaded USB
supply was measured at 5.04V, which
dropped when loaded by the powerhungry Atmel WLAN adapter (drawing 270mA) to 4.88V with a 600mm
cable and just 4.75V when at the end
of a 5m USB 2.0 extender.
This 5m cable was measured as having 0.5W resistance in the supply wire
(therefore 1W, considering return too),
which accounts closely
with the example above.
Adding another 5m extender dropped the load
voltage to almost 4.5V,
with the PC then reporting “ USB device not
recognised”, presumably
because of timing and low
supply voltage issues.
Given the lowered supSILICON CHIP’s
ply voltage at the end of
USB Power Injector
these lengthy USB cables,
from the October 2004
it’s feasible that heavier
issue. It doubles the amount of power
(paralleled?) DC supply
available from a USB port.
cables could be used if
longer runs are needed
and data propagation timing is not
gised via cheap CAT-5 cable.
an issue – perhaps to serve a rooftop
Aside from the tedious energy isUSB webcam or “sweetspot” WiFi
sues, ultimate cable lengths really are
adaptor.
limited by the data speeds. Although
Some of the now-common external
such signals travel near the speed
USB hard disks and CD/DVD writers
of light in cables, even a few extra
actually have two USB connectors
metres of conductor can delay things
at the PC end, wired in parallel to
unacceptably.
achieve the currents required. They
The recently-announced Wireless
rely on the fact that (hopefully!) most
USB still only offers modest ranges
PCs these days have several USB port
(3-10m) but given the lack of wires(!),
sockets close together.
there certainly won’t be any voltage
Remote DC supplies via completely
drops – or convenient 5V supplies.
separate lines and a 7805 voltage
Active Extender and doubled “Bus”
regulator, perhaps with higher voltage
power cables (Jaycar XC4839 and
(9V?) initially, may serve to stretch
WC7750 respectively) may of course
runs as well.
better suit demanding USB setups.
This is precisely the scheme inBut if only modest extensions are
volved in the SILICON CHIP USB Power
needed, cheap passive extending
Injector mentioned above; however it
techniques are well worth consideralso included line sensing to turn the
ing – if only to keep your coffee warm
power on and off in sympathy with the
while lounging some distance away
power at the USB port itself.
from the PC!
Perhaps even a small photovoltaic
With the breakout adaptor shown
solar panel could be used to charge a
above and a DMM, you can at least
rooftop battery, providing a regulated
be easily informed of your loads’ DC
5V supply. It’s rather akin to “corpodemands, something that currently is
SC
rate” power over ethernet (POE) aplargely unknown.
proaches – well known for rooftop/
masthead WiFi Access Points ener* s.t.swan<at>massey.ac.nz
This active USB 5m extension cable uses some of the power
available from the USB port to amplify the data signal. Up to
5 can be connected in series. It’s from Jaycar (Cat XC4839).
24 Silicon Chip
Where you have power-hungry USB devices, a USB Bus
Power Cable can give them a boost, connecting to two USB
ports to double power. Also from Jaycar (Cat WC7750).
siliconchip.com.au
siliconChipAd4
8/9/05
3:52 pm
Page 1
MANUFACTURERS OF LOW POWER RADIO
MODULES ESTABLISHED SINCE 1985
The wireless industry's
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• VHF and UHF radio modules on
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• Single/Multi Channel
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available
Transmitters, Receivers
• Multi-channel Wide Band FM
radio modem
and Transceivers
• 5 serial select channels on
433.05MHz-434.79MHz band
• Narrow Band and Wide
Band FM modules
• Modulation: 16kbps
bi-phase FSK
• Serial modem baud rate at
9600bps (halfduplex)
• Addressable point-to-point
• Data Present indication
The TDL2A is a 9600 baud
half-duplex OEM radio
modem in a BiM2 footprint.
Provided no two devices
attempt to transmit
simultaneously, no further
restrictions on data
transmission need be made,
as all transmit timing, valid
data identification and
datastream buffering is
conducted by the unit.
Synchronisation and framing
words in the packet prevent
the receiver outputting noise
in the absence of signal or
presence of interference.
siliconchip.com.au
• BiM2 footprint 33 x 23 x 7mm
• Performs low level packet
formatting - preamble,
synchronisation, bit balancing,
error checking
• 32 byte data buffer
• Transmit power: +10dBm
(10mW)
• Receiver sensitivity: -107dBm
(for 1% BER)
• Supply: 5V <at>28mA transmit,
22mA receive/idle
• An interface board (with
MAX232 type buffer,
9 way D connector, 5V voltage
regulator and SMA
RF connector) is available.
This board is 61mm x
33mm in size
• Encoders and Decoders for
RF remote control
The TX1H and CVR1 form a miniature VHF radio transmitter and
receiver designed for PCB mounting and are suitable for extended
range data links at speeds up to 10kbps. Link ranges of 10km +
are achievable with suitable choice of data rate and antennas.
• Standard frequencies: 151.300MHz, 151.600 MHz,173.225MHz
& 173.250MHz
• Available on other frequencies from 120MHz to 180MHz
• Verified to comply with AS/NZS 4268:2003
• Data rates up to 10kbps
TX1H
CVR1
• TX1H supply range:
3.8V-15V <at>80mA
• Supply: 3V (regulated)
<at> 7mA
• Transmit power:
+20dBm(100mW) nominal
• Receiver sensitivity: 120dBm (for 12 dB SINAD)
• Supply range:
3.8V - 15V <at>80ma
• Feature-rich interface
(RSSI, analogue and
digital baseband)
• Dimensions:
43 x 14.5 x 5mm
• Dimensions:
33 x 23 x 8mm
• Radio Packet Modems
• Radio Packet Controllers
• Evaluation Kits
RF Modules Australia
P.O. Box 1957
Launceston
Tasmania 7250
Australia
Tel: +61-3-6331-6789
Fax: +61-3-6331-1243
sales<at>rfmodules.com.au
Full technical details are
available online at:
www.radiometrix.com
20 YEARS OF INNOVATION FROM THE PIONEERS IN WIRELESS
October 2005 25
By PETER SMITH
Studio Series
Stereo Preamplifier
A S up er b P r ea m p li f ier F or T h e A u dio E n t h us i as t !
This brand new, easy-to-build preamp features
the latest high-performance audio op amps
for ultra-low noise and distortion. Its modular
design incorporates five switched RCA inputs
and support for a headphone amplifier.
T
HESE DAYS, audio power amplifiers that produce low noise and
distortion and cost only a few hundred
dollars are relatively easy to find. In
fact, they’re built into many of the
latest multi-channel home theatre
systems. Much of this gear is based
around hybrid amplifier modules,
which typically produce distortion
levels in the 0.02% realm.
Those serious about their audio will
demand a much higher level of per26 Silicon Chip
formance than can be found in these
mass-produced units, which explains
why the discrete power amplifier
projects described in SILICON CHIP are
so popular.
For example, the 15W Class-A Stereo Amplifier described in July and
August 1998 still gets a high ranking,
as does the 100W “Ultra-LD” class-AB
design described more recently. These
amplifiers are expensive to build but
offer performance that typically costs
many times more in comparable commercial units.
Having built one of our high-performance amplifiers, many readers have
also asked us for a matching preamplifier design. And so our design brief
was simple: a minimalist approach,
focused on achieving ultra-low noise
and distortion, but with enough gain
(with the “wick” wound right up) to
overdrive any of our audio power
amplifiers, including the big 350W
and 500W units. So, what were our
options?
Discrete versus integrated
Initially, we were aiming for a discrete class-A amplifier design, speculating that this would be the best way
to achieve the ultra-low distortion
figures that were required. Another
option was to use boutique op amps
siliconchip.com.au
specified for hifi audio use, such as
those manufactured by Analog Devices
and Texas Instruments.
High linearity and the lack of crossover distortion are the major reasons
for the use of class-A mode in audio
applications. However, when compared to an equivalent op amp design,
a discrete class-A amplifier would
have consumed a large amount of PC
board space, making the completed
module physically large and more
prone to radiated noise. It would also
be considerably more difficult to build,
containing many more components
than an equivalent op amp design.
We then looked at the current audio
op amp offerings and their implementation. In many of our past designs,
we’ve used the industry-standard NE5534 and LM833 devices. These are
relatively cheap and easy to obtain, and
both typically produce about 0.002%
total harmonic distortion (THD) at
1kHz when driving a 2kW load. Don’t
get us wrong – this is a very good figure
– but it just wasn’t good enough for our
new preamp! Our intention was (and
is) to produce a preamp which causes
virtually no signal degradation when
teamed with our benchmark class-A
15W amplifier.
From the limited selection of audiospecific op amps available, most were
deemed either too expensive or too
hard to obtain. However, the BurrBrown (Texas Instruments) OPA134
series is not expensive and easy to
obtain and it produces an extremely
low 0.00008% harmonic distortion at
1kHz! This is more than an order of
magnitude (25 times better!) below
the figures for the op amps mentioned
earlier and with all things considered,
would give superior performance compared to a discrete class-A design.
Incidentally, the output stages of
these op amps do not run in class-A
mode, despite their excellent linearity.
The manufacturer’s datasheets do not
reveal how they have achieved these
impressive results.
Extra features
We’ve stuck to our minimalist brief
and added just two features to the basic
preamp. The first of these addresses
a common problem faced during
preamp construction: how to switch
the various signal inputs through to
the preamp input while maintaining
low noise and crosstalk.
Typically, multiple inputs are hansiliconchip.com.au
Features & Performance
Main Features
• High performance design – very low THD+N
• Five on-board RCA inputs
• Passive-switched inputs maintain signal integrity
• Switched headphone amplifier output
Measured Performance
Frequency response...... flat from 10Hz to 20kHz, -1dB <at> 82kHz (see Fig.5)
Maximum input signal..................................... 2.9V RMS (9.5V RMS output)
Input impedance...................................................................................~90kW
Output impedance..................................................................................100W
Harmonic distortion.......................................... typically <.0005% (see Fig.7)
Signal-to-noise ratio........................................................ -102dB unweighted
Channel crosstalk........................................ -96dB <at> 1kHz, -73dB <at> 10kHz
Source crosstalk........................................ -110dB <at> 1kHz, -93dB <at> 10kHz
Note: all measurements were performed at the maximum volume setting with
the output driving a 50kW load. Input signal amplitude was 600mV RMS (2V
RMS output). For crosstalk measurements, non-driven inputs were backterminated into 600W.
dled by fitting a bunch of RCA sockets to the rear panel and laboriously
wiring these to a rotary switch on the
front panel with shielded cable. Alternatively, the RCAs are mounted on
a PC board at the rear along with the
switch, which is then piped through to
the front panel with a long extension
shaft. While these methods work, they
have their disadvantages. What’s more,
they don’t allow for remote control
selection!
We’ve opted for an electro-mechanical solution, using passive (relay)
switching for minimum impact on the
audio signal. Each stereo input has its
own miniature relay, positioned right
next to the RCA socket. This gives absolute minimal source crosstalk and less
induced noise, even when compared
to some cabling schemes.
The second feature is closely related
to requests we’ve had for a high-quality
headphone amplifier that runs off
the preamp (rather than power amp)
stage. In support of this idea, we’ve
included a relay circuit that can route
the preamp’s output to an RCA socket
at the rear or a terminal block on the
inside, where it would connect to a
separate headphone amplifier board.
In summary, to operate as a fully
functioning unit, the Studio Series
Preamplifier module requires only a
volume potentiometer, source selection switch and low-noise power
supply, all of which are described in
detail in this article.
In the pipeline
Over the coming months, we hope
to describe a high-quality headphone
amplifier module to suit. We’re also developing a companion control board,
which would feature an infrared remote control (motorised) volume pot
and remote source selection.
In the final article, we’ll show you
how to put all of these modules together in a slim rack-mount case. In fact,
we’ve heard rumours that Altronics
will have a very nice screen-printed
and punched case to accept all these
goodies.
How it works
The preamp consists of two identical signal paths from input to output,
catering for the left and right stereo
channels. Therefore, to avoid duplication and reduce clutter, our circuits
show only the left channel. We’ve
also divided the preamplifier circuit
diagram into two sections, corresponding to the input signal switching (Fig.1)
and preamplifier functions (Fig.2).
Referring first to the signal inputs
(Fig.1), no less than five RCA sockets
October 2005 27
28 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: the preamp’s input and output switching circuits. Passive (relay) rather than active switching is used to have minimal effect on the audio signal.
Any one of five RCA inputs can be selected by bringing the base of the associated relay driver transistor to ground.
Fig.2: the amplifier part of the preamp is based on Burr-Brown high-performance OPA2134 audio op amps (IC1 &
IC2). To save space, only the left audio channel is shown here – the right channel is identical.
(CON8-CON12) are provided for connection to various audio sources. We’ve
used labels such as “CD”, “DVD” and
“TAPE”, but of course, these inputs
will accept any audio signal classed as
“line-level”. The sixth socket (CON13)
simply loops the selected input pair
back out, duplicating the “tape loop”
function found in some preamps and
control units.
Each input pair is connected to the
normally-open contacts of a relay,
with the poles of all relays connected
together. The relays are driven with
PNP transistors (Q1-Q5) from the +5V
rail, such that when the base of a transistor is pulled to ground it switches
on, energising the relay. This closes the
relay contacts and connects the signal
pair through to the amplifier input.
We have not used the normally
closed contacts of the relays. With a
slightly different switching arrangement we could have used these to
short the outputs of the “unselected”
program sources to ground. For example, this would stop the audio from a
tuner being heard at low levels when a
Fig.3: a single-pole 5-position rotary switch can be wired to the 10-way
header to provide source selection.
siliconchip.com.au
CD player was selected. This approach
would have ensured low source crosstalk but we felt that shorting some
program sources may not be desirable.
In any case, we have managed to keep
source crosstalk very low, at around
-110dB.
The bases of Q1-Q5 are connected to
a header (CON4) via 3.3kW resistors, so
it’s simply a matter of grounding the
designated header pin to select a particular signal source. A rotary switch
can be used to perform this function,
as shown in Fig.3.
Note that the relay control circuits
operate from completely separate
power and ground rails. In fact, we’ve
used a different ground symbol for
the relay circuits to indicate that
this rail is not connected to the
amplifier ground rail on the
preamp PC board. Instead,
the two ground rails are
connected only on
the power supply
board to minimise noise.
Also shown on this circuit (Fig.1)
are the coils for relays RLY6 & RLY7
and their control circuit. These form
part of the preamplifier’s output signal
October 2005 29
routing, which we describe in detail
later.
Fig.4: we designed a separate low-noise linear supply for the preamp
based on common 3-terminal regulators. A regulated +5V output is
included for powering the switching circuits and future add-ons.
FET op amps
30 Silicon Chip
The core function of the preamplifier is performed by a pair of BurrBrown OPA2134 dual audio op amps
(IC1 & IC2), as shown in Fig.2. The
audio signal from the selected source is
AC-coupled to the input of the first op
amp (IC1a) via a 47mF capacitor, while
a 100kW resistor to ground provides
input termination.
A simple low-pass filter formed by
the 1.2kW resistor and 56pF capacitor
attenuates RF frequencies ahead of the
op amp input. A relatively large resistor value can be used here because of
the OPA2134’s true FET inputs, which
present an impressively large 10TW
(Teraohms!) impedance. The -3dB
point of the filter was chosen to be
about 100 times greater than the highest audio frequency, to have minimal
effect on the audio signal.
The voltage gain of the op amp is
set to about 3.3 (10.5dB) by virtue of
the 4.7kW and 2kW feedback resistors.
The 4.7kW resistor and 220pF capacitor combination roll off the top end
frequency response, with a -3dB point
at 154kHz.
As can be seen from the frequency
response graph (Fig.5), this gives a
flat response over the audio spectrum
while eliminating the possibility of
high-frequency instability.
The output from IC1a (pin 1) drives
one end of a 10kW potentiometer
(VR1a) via a 22mF non-polarised
coupling capacitor. The pot acts as a
simple voltage divider, with more of
less of the amplified signal appearing at
the input of the second op amp (IC1b),
dependent on wiper position.
You’ll note that the wiper of the
pot is also AC-coupled, again with a
non-polarised capacitor. This is done
to prevent any DC voltage appearing
across the pot, which if present would
cause an irritating sound during wiper
movement.
We’ve used the second op amp in
the package (IC1b) as a unity-gain
buffer, allowing the preamp to provide
a low-impedance output regardless of
volume control setting. A 47mF nonpolarised capacitor couples the audio
signal to the output via a 100W resistor,
which is included to ensure stability when driving cable and amplifier
input capacitance. Together with the
ferrite bead, it also helps to attenuate
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.5: a plot of the frequency response for both channels
shows a ruler-flat response over the entire audio spectrum,
after which the curve gently rolls off, with a –3dB point at
154kHz.
RF noise that might otherwise find its
way back into the preamp circuit.
Impedance matching
As mentioned, op amp IC1b is configured for unity gain, so its output (pin
7) must connect back to its inverting
input (pin 6). Note, however, that we
show a resistor (R1) in the feedback
path. Those familiar with op amps will
know that a resistor can be included
in this loop to impedance match the
two inputs.
Like many op amps, the OPA2134
shows an increase in distortion in noninverting applications if the impedance seen by its positive and negative
inputs is not matched. Unfortunately,
the input impedance that the negative
input of IC1b “sees” varies with the
wiper of the pot.
Despite this shortcoming, the distortion levels of the OPA2134 are very low
even at the worst case wiper position,
where noise far outweighs distortion
anyway. Nevertheless, we’ve provided
positions on the PC board for two
impedance-matching resistors (R1
& R2).
If desired, you can install equal value resistors (instead of wire links) in
these two locations that approximate
the wiper-to-ground resistance of the
volume pot at your typical listening
levels. This extra little feature allows
you to obtain the very best performance from your preamplifier module!
Of course, the said wiper resistance can only be determined after
you’ve used the preamp with your
complete stereo system and favourite
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.6: crosstalk between channels is also very respectable.
Increasing crosstalk at the higher end of the scale indicates
electrostatic coupling, due to the physical proximity of the
channels and the long PC tracks connecting the relays.
music for awhile, so wire links are
installed in these locations during
construction. We suspect that most
constructors won’t bother to replace
the wire links!
Output switching
Finally, provision has been made
to allow the preamp output to be
switched between the RCA socket pair
at the rear (CON14) and a terminal
block (CON6). The latter connector
is intended for use with an internal
high-quality headphone amplifier,
presently under development.
Two relays (RLY6 & RLY7) are used
to allow the non-driven input to be
grounded. Relay operation is dictated
by the insertion and removal of the
headphone jack, which operates a
switch inside the jack socket.
The jack switch is wired to CON7
(Fig.1), where it controls transistor Q6
to drive the two relay coils. With a jack
in the socket, the switch is open and
the base of Q6 is pulled high via diode
D6 and the two 1.5kW resistors. This
turns Q6 on and energises both relay
coils, directing the output signal to
CON6 and the headphone amplifier.
When the jack is unplugged, the
socket switch closes, grounding the
“SWITCH” input on CON7 and stealing
Q6’s base current. After a short delay,
the transistor (and the relays) switch
off, redirecting the output signal to
CON14 and the power amplifier.
The diode, capacitor and resistors
are included in the base circuit of
Q6 to slow the circuit’s response to
changes at the switch input. This helps
to minimise relay chatter during jack
insertion and removal.
Power supply
To ensure the best possible perfor-
Fig.7: all our audio
tests were performed in-house on our
Audio Precision
System One. This
graph shows total
harmonic distortion
& noise versus
frequency. The
reading is mostly
below .0005%.
However, this figure
is barely above the
noise floor of the
test instrument, so
the real value is
probably much
lower!
October 2005 31
Fig.8: follow this overlay diagram closely when assembling your preamp board. Wire links should be installed for R1 and R2 but these can be replaced
with resistors later for a small improvement in performance (see text). As noted, the components within the dotted line aren’t needed in all cases but it
does no harm to install them anyway.
32 Silicon Chip
mance, we’ve designed a separate,
low-noise power supply for the
preamp module. It provides regulated
±15V and +5V outputs for the preamp
and any future add-ons.
The power supply board accepts
a 30VAC centre-tapped transformer
input, typically formed by joining
two 15VAC secondary windings of a
toroidal transformer – see Fig.4. Four
diodes (D1-D4) and two 2200mF capacitors rectify and filter the input to
create ±21V DC (nominal) rails.
LM317 and LM337 adjustable regulators generate the complementary
positive and negative supply rails.
Their outputs are programmed to
±15V by virtue of the 100W and 1.1kW
resistors connected to the “OUT” and
“ADJ” terminals.
We’ve used adjustable regulators
in this design because the “ADJ”
terminals can be bypassed to ground
to improve ripple rejection, which
we’ve done using 10mF capacitors. The
associated diodes (D5 & D7) provide
a discharge path for the capacitors
should an output be accidentally
shorted to ground.
Two reverse-connected diodes (D6
& D8) across the output prevent their
respective rails from being driven to
the opposite polarity (eg, if a regulator
fails), something that should never occur during normal operation.
A 7805 regulator (REG3) is used to
generate the +5V rail. The 100W resistor in line with REG3 reduces power
dissipation in the regulator. While this
resistor is not strictly necessary when
powering only the preamp module, it
will certainly be required for future
add-ons, which will demand considerably more current!
As the +5V supply draws power
from only the positive side of the unregulated DC input, a 330W resistor
across the negative input is included
to balance the rails so that they decay
at similar rates at power off.
Preamp assembly
Assembly of the preamplifier board
is quite straightforward, as all components (except for the volume pot)
mount on a single-sided PC board
measuring 73 x 192mm. Use the
overlay diagram in Fig.8 as a guide to
component placement.
If you won’t be connecting a headphone amplifier to the board later on,
then installation of the associated
output switching circuitry is optional.
siliconchip.com.au
This prototype preamp board varies slightly from the final version shown in Fig.8. The miniature relays switch the
selected source to the preamp stages and switch the preamp output between the external power amplifier and an
optional internal headphone amplifier (to be described in a coming issue).
The components involved are RLY6,
RLY7, CON6, CON7, D6-D8, Q6, a
100mF capacitor and a few resistors.
Fig.8 shows these items enclosed
within a dotted outline, for easy identification.
You’ll find assembly much easier
if you install the wire links, resistors
and diodes first. Note that two of the
wire links pass partially beneath the
220pF capacitors and these must be
fashioned from 0.7mm tinned copper
wire or similar.
Zero ohm “resistors” can be used
in place of wire links in the remaining 11 positions, if desired. These are
shaped just like conventional 0.25W
resistors and are identified by their
brown body and single black band.
Although they impart a neater appearance to the finished work, they have
no electrical benefits over ordinary
copper wire! For the time being, you
should also install wire links in place
of resistors R1 & R2.
Note that the two 100W resistors
require special treatment. Slip a 5mm
ferrite bead over one lead before bending and inserting each resistor into its
PC board holes.
The relays (RLY1-RLY7) can go in
next, taking care to insert them the
right way around. The white line on
the top of the package must match the
corresponding marking on the overlay
diagram. Remember that RLY6 & RLY7
can be left out if headphone amplifier
switching isn’t needed, as explained
earlier. However, you must fit two wire
siliconchip.com.au
links in place of the relays, as shown
in Fig.8.
Install the two 8-pin IC sockets and
the 10-way header (CON4) next. Note
that one side of the header housing
is keyed and this must be oriented
towards the centre of the board. Likewise, the notched (pin 1) end of the IC
sockets must be correctly oriented.
Follow with the screw terminal
blocks, all of the capacitors and the
transistors. Five of the electrolytic
capacitors (100mF & 10mF values) are
polarised and must be installed with
their positive leads aligned as shown.
The remaining electrolytics are nonpolarised (marked “NP” or “BP”) and
can go in either way.
The RCA connectors (CON8-CON14)
go in last of all. Be sure to push each
connector all the way home and check
that it’s sitting perpendicular to the
board surface before soldering.
be mounted about 2mm proud of the
board surface.
Take care with the orientation of
the electrolytic capacitors, as all on
this board are polarised. Also, be sure
not to interchange the two adjustable
regulators (REG1 & REG2) and note
that they face in opposite directions!
Unlike REG1 & REG2, regulator
REG3 mounts horizontally. Bend its
leads at 90° about 5mm from its body
and trial fit it in position to verify that
Power supply assembly
The power supply PC board is a
relatively simple design and should
not present any particular assembly
problems. Apart from the mains transformer and wiring, all components
mount on a single-sided PC board
measuring 54.6 x 80mm, including
the bridge rectifier, filters and voltage
regulators.
As before, install all of the lowprofile components first, starting with
the single wire link, resistors and
diodes (see Fig.10). To aid heat dissipation, the two 5W resistors should
Fig.9: here’s how to wire both halves of
the dual-gang volume pot. We plan to
present a motorised volume control in a
future instalment. If you can’t wait, then
check out the Infrared Remote Volume
Control published in June 2002.
October 2005 33
board in the holes provided using M3
x 6mm screws.
Mains wiring
The power supply board
should only take a few minutes
to assemble. All connections are
made via screw terminal blocks.
Fig.10: follow this diagram to assemble the power supply board. Take
care not to get the 3-terminal regulators mixed up.
the hole in the tab lines up with its hole
in the board. Adjust as necessary, then
slide a TO-220 heatsink between the
regulator and the PC board after applying a thin smear of heatsink compound
to the mating surfaces.
Secure the assembly to the board
with an M3 x 10mm screw, flat washer
& nut. Don’t solder the regulator’s
leads until after the screw has been
tightened, otherwise the PC board or
regulator package could be damaged.
Before moving on to the wiring, attach four threaded standoffs to each
It’s very important that the power
supply is checked out before it’s connected to the preamplifier module. To
do this, first assemble the transformer
into your metal project case.
For best results, the mains transformer should be located as far away
from the preamp board as possible to
minimise induced noise. A toroidal
model is recommended for its low
radiated field and low physical profile.
Important: a full metal case is recommended for this project. Plastic will
not provide the necessary electrical
screening!
Connect the mains (primary) side
of the transformer, using the basic
diagram in Fig.4 as a guide. Be sure
to adhere to any instructions provided
with the transformer, particularly with
regard to mounting, fuse ratings and
wire colour coding.
All work must be carried out professionally and in accordance with
mains wiring practices. In particular,
ensure that all live connections are
properly insulated, which includes
the use of rubber boots (or equivalent)
over the rear of all switches and mains
sockets.
The mains wiring is not complete
until the mains earth is secured to the
metal chassis using the scheme shown
in Fig.11. That done, use your multimeter to verify that a good electrical
connection exists between the earth
pin of the mains plug and all panels
of the metal chassis.
Power supply test
The power supply test is uncompli-
Electrolytic vs Polypropylene Capacitors
H
IGH-CAPACITANCE non-polarised
electrolytics are used for signal
coupling throughout this design. The
results are excellent, as reflected in the
various performance measurements.
However, some hifi proponents will
be unhappy with this choice, instead
insisting that polypropylene capacitors somehow “sound” better than
electrolytics when used in the audio
signal chain.
To explain, polypropylene capacitors
have a much lower dissipation factor
(DF) and lower dielectric absorption
34 Silicon Chip
(DA) than electrolytics; a major reason for their use in sample-and-hold
circuits, high-frequency filter networks
and speaker crossovers, for example.
However, their benefits in low-level audio frequency circuits are much harder
to quantify, especially considering their
proportionally larger size, higher cost
and limited local availability in appropriately large values.
Those with a personal preference
for polypropylene capacitors can of
course substitute these for the specified non-polarised electrolytics, given
sufficient board space and part availability. Smaller capacitance values
will need to be used for polypropylene
substitutes due to the sheer size and
cost differences. To minimise impact
on bass response, a minimum of 2.2mF
should be substituted for the 47mF and
2.2mF electrolytics and a 4.7mF value
for the 22mF electrolytic. It would also
be preferable to use a 20kW log pot
for VR1.
Note that the use of physically larger
coupling capacitors is likely to increase
noise and crosstalk.
siliconchip.com.au
Par t s Lis t
Fig.11: the mains earth terminal
is secured to the case as shown
here. The top nut serves as a
lock-nut, so that the assembly
cannot possibly come loose.
cated and involves simply measuring
the unloaded output voltage of the
three supply rails. To do this, first
connect the two secondary (15VAC)
windings to the transformer input
(CON1) of the board.
Apply power and use your multimeter to measure the three rails at
the supply outputs (CON2 & CON3).
Assuming all is well, the +15V, -15V
and +5V rails should all be within ±5%
of the rated values.
Low-voltage wiring
Once you’re satisfied that the power
supply is working properly, disconnect input power and wire up the ±15V
and 5V outputs to the preamp supply
inputs. Note that these supplies must
be cabled separately, meaning that two
wires are required for the 5V supply
(+5V & GND) and three for the ±15V
supply (+15V, -15V & GND).
Use medium-duty, multi-strand
hook-up wire for the job and twist
the wires tightly together to reduce
noise and improve appearance. Again,
run the cable for the 5V supply separately; do not twist it together with the
±15V wiring.
For most installations, the preamp’s
common (GND) rail should be connected to chassis earth. This is achieved by running a wire from the pad
marked “EARTH” on the preamp
board to the main chassis earth point.
Do not connect any other part of the
preamp circuit or power supply to
chassis earth (except the volume pot,
see below).
The volume pot must be a dual-gang
logarithmic type, preferably 10kW in
value. If using a motorised pot, a 20kW
value may have to suffice. Don’t use
a larger value, as this will affect the
preamp’s noise performance. Do use
twin-core shielded cable for each
siliconchip.com.au
1 PC board coded 01109051,
73mm x 192mm
7 DPDT 5V DIL relays (RLY1RLY7) (Altronics S 4128B)
7 PC-mount gold-plated dual
RCA sockets (CON8–CON14)
(Altronics P 0212)
1 10-way 2.54mm PC mount
shrouded header (CON4)
(Altronics P 5010)
4 3-way 5mm/5.08mm terminal
blocks (CON1-CON3, CON6)
2 2-way 5mm/5.08mm terminal
block (CON5, CON7)
2 5mm ferrite beads (L1, L2)
(Altronics L 5250A)
2 8-pin gold-plated IC sockets
4 M3 x 10mm tapped spacers
4 M3 x 6mm pan head screws
7 self-tapping screws (for RCA
sockets)
Semiconductors
2 OPA2134PA dual FET-input
op amps (IC1, IC2) (Farnell
791-039)
5 BC327 PNP transistors (Q1-Q5)
1 PN100 NPN transistor (Q6)
8 1N4148 diodes (D1-D8)
Capacitors
3 100mF 16V PC electrolytic
2 10mF 16V PC electrolytic
4 47mF 35V/50V non-polarised
PC electrolytic (max. 8mm
diameter)
2 22mF 35V/50V non-polarised
PC electrolytic (max. 8mm
diameter)
2 2.2mF 35V/50V non-polarised
PC electrolytic (max. 5mm
diameter)
5 100nF 50V metallised polyester (MKT)
2 220pF 50V ceramic disc
2 56pF 50V ceramic disc
Resistors (0.25W 1%)
2 1MW
2 2kW
6 100kW
2 1.5kW
6 10kW
2 1.2kW
2 4.7kW
2 100W
5 3.3kW
13 0W (for links)
section of the pot, wired as shown
in Fig.9!
The metal body of the pot must be
connected to chassis earth to reduce
Additional items
1 dual-gang 10kW log potentiometer
1 single-pole 5-position rotary
switch (eg, Altronics S 3021)
1 10-way IDC cable-mount
socket
10-way IDC ribbon cable
2-core shielded audio cable for
volume pot connections
Medium-duty hook-up wire for
low-voltage wiring
Power Supply
1 PC board coded 01109052,
54.6 x 80mm
1 Micro-U 19°C/W TO-220 heatsink (Altronics H 0637)
2 3-way 5mm/5.08mm terminal
block (CON1, CON2)
1 2-way 5mm/5.08mm terminal
block (CON3)
4 M3 x 10mm tapped spacers
5 M3 x 6mm pan head screws
1 M3 nut & flat washer
Semiconductors
1 LM317T adjustable positive
regulator (REG1)
1 LM337T adjustable negative
regulator (REG2)
1 7805 +5V regulator (REG3)
8 1N4004 diodes (D1–D8)
Resistors
2 1.1kW 0.25W 1%
2 100W 0.25W 1%
1 330W 5W 5%
1 100W 5W 5%
Capacitors
2 2200mF 25V PC electrolytic
2 100mF 16V PC electrolytic
1 47mF 25V PC electrolytic
3 10mF 16V PC electrolytic
2 100nF 50V metallised polyester (MKT)
Additional items:
1 15V+15V 30VA toroidal transformer
1 Mains switch and connection
hardware
noise pickup. Do not connect the
body to either of the shielded cables!
Normally, the front panel will provide
the necessary earth connection. If
October 2005 35
OPA134 Series High-Performance Audio Op Amps
Fig.12: at unity gain, the THD+N performance for these op amps is almost
invisible and certainly inaudible! This graph is reproduced from the
datasheets, which can be obtained from the Texas Instruments website at
www.ti.com.
T
HE OPA134 series op amps include
single (OPA134), dual (OPA2134)
and quad (OPA4134) versions. The
series is fully specified for audio applications, boasting ultra-low distortion
and low noise. They include true FET
input stages to provide superior sound
quality and speed for exceptional audio
performance.
This in combination with high output
drive capability and excellent DC performance allows use in a wide variety
of demanding applications. In addition,
the OPA134’s wide output swing, to
within 1V of the rails, allows increased
headroom, making it ideal for use in
any audio circuit.
OPA134 op amps are easy to use
and free from the phase inversion
and overload problems often found
in common FET-input op amps. They
can be operated from ±2.5V to ±18V
power supplies. Input cascode circuitry
provides excellent common-mode
rejection and maintains low input bias
current over its wide input voltage
range, minimising distortion.
These op amps are unity-gain stable
and provide excellent dynamic behaviour over a wide range of load condi-
it doesn’t, then connect the pot to a
convenient chassis earth point using
hook-up wire. Note that solder won’t
adhere to the plating on the pot, so
remove a small area of the plating
with an ink rubber or scouring pad
prior to tinning.
If you’ve installed the headphone
36 Silicon Chip
Fig.13: our preamp uses the
OPA2134 (dual) version, which
follows the industry-standard
package configuration.
tions, including high load capacitance.
The dual and quad versions feature
completely independent circuitry for
lowest crosstalk and freedom from
interaction, even when overdriven or
overloaded.
Another strong characteristic of
this series is its extremely low signal
distortion. Total harmonic distortion
plus noise (THD+N) is below 0.0004%
throughout the audio frequency spectrum (20Hz to 20kHz) with a 2kW load.
In fact, the THD+N produced by these
op amps is below the normal measurement limit of all known commercially
available test instruments!
amplifier switching circuitry (RLY6,
RLY7, etc) and have a suitable amplifier board, then connect the headphone
audio output (CON6) to the input of
your headphone amplifier using twincore shielded cable.
In addition, the switch contacts of
the headphone jack socket must be
wired to CON7. Many jack sockets
have isolated switches built in, so all
you need to do is connect across the
normally-closed terminals of one of
the switches.
However, the switch contacts in
some sockets share a ground connection with the audio signal. If you
have this type of socket, then find
the contact that is disconnected from
ground when the jack is inserted and
connect this back to the “SWITCH” input of CON7, leaving the “GND” input
disconnected. This avoids creating a
certain earth loop in your system!
Important: if the headphone jack
switch isn’t connected to the preamp
board, then you must insert a shorting link between the two terminals of
CON7; otherwise, you’ll get no signal
from the RCA output (CON14)!
Source selection
As mentioned earlier, each RCA
input pair is individually selectable
via one control line on the 10-way
header (CON4). To select a particular
input, simply connect the associated
control line to ground (GND).
While we intend to describe a means
of remotely controlling the preamplifier’s source switching (and volume!)
in a future issue of SILICON CHIP, a far
cheaper and simpler method is to use a
mechanical switch. All that’s required
is a single-pole 5-way rotary switch, a
10-way IDC cable-mount socket and a
length of IDC cable.
As the cable doesn’t carry lowlevel audio signals, it can be routed
anywhere you like within your case
without regard to length. The equivalent electrical circuit for the switch
wiring is given in Fig.3.
Final checks
Before connecting inputs and outputs, power up and with your negative
meter probe touching a handy ground
point, measure the voltage on the
power supply pins of the two op amps.
Obviously, pin 8 should measure +15V
and pin 4 should measure -15V. In
addition, the outputs (pins 1 & 7) of
both op amps should be within a few
mV of ground.
Finally, if you’ve connected a source
selection switch, you should be able
to hear the relays clicking when you
rotate the knob.
OK, that’s it – you should now
have a working hifi preamp! Happy
SC
listening!
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10-05
By JIM ROWE
The on-screen video looks considerably
better than this photo indicates. The
contrast is better and the Moire patterning,
a result of the interaction between the onscreen display and our digital camera, is
absent.
Video Reading Aid
. . . for vision impaired people
Do you have a family member with vision problems – like
cataracts, or age-related macular degeneration? Here’s a lowcost video reading aid that will make it much easier for them
to read a book or newspaper. It combines a small CMOS TV
camera with a video processor which boosts the contrast and
allows them to select either a positive or negative enlarged
image for viewing on a TV set or video monitor.
E
YE PROBLEMS like cataracts and
age-related macular degeneration
are all too common in Australia, especially among those of “mature age”.
In fact, it was recently estimated that
one in every four people over 75 has
symptoms of this kind of visual impairment, while one in every 10 lose
their central vision.
Understandably, those unlucky
enough to suffer from these problems
can find it very difficult to read a
book, magazine or newspaper. This
lowers their quality of life dramati38 Silicon Chip
cally and deprives them of important
sources of news, entertainment and
information.
In many cases, however, reading
printed material can be made a lot
easier by using improved lighting to
increase the contrast, plus a magnification system to enlarge the type.
Optical magnifiers with built-in lighting are available for use as reading
aids but they’re fairly pricey. You can
also get similar devices using video
magnification but these are even more
expensive. As a result, such devices
are often out of the reach of the people
who could benefit from them.
Recently, we decided to have a go
at a video magnifier ourselves and
this project is the result. It combines
one of the very small low-cost black
and white CMOS cameras currently
available from various suppliers with a
very compact video processing circuit,
and has a switch so you can select one
of three image options: high contrast
greyscale positive, hard limited or
‘digital’ black and white positive, or
digital negative. And the output is
siliconchip.com.au
standard video so it’s compatible with
any normal PAL TV receiver.
The camera and video processor are
both fitted inside a standard UB3-size
project box. Because a person with
impaired vision doesn’t want to be
fiddling with camera focusing, we’ve
mounted it on plastic food container
to give it a fixed focal length. In use,
this plastic skirt sits directly on the
printed page and slides easily over the
page, without marking.
Basically, it behaves a bit like a giant mouse – you just slide it so that
the lens is over the text you want to
read.
Illumination is provided via four
high-output white LEDs, which
mount on the underside of the box
adjacent to the lens. In practice, the
LEDs have to be “doctored” to ensure
that their light output is reasonably
diffused over the camera’s viewing
area but this is easy to do, as described
later in the article.
The end result is an easy-to-build
video magnifier which you can feed
into almost any old colour or B&W TV
set. You should be able to build it for
less than $200.
By the way this price estimate is
based on using of one of the low-cost
B&W cameras with a CMOS sensor
that are currently available from various electronics retailers. We’ve tried
it out using two of these: the Swann
unit sold by Dick Smith Electronics as
Cat. L-5877 ($89.86) and the Samsung
unit sold by Jaycar Electronics as the
QC-3474 ($89.95). These both give
good results, although the Swann unit
requires a minor modification to disable its inbuilt IR LEDs, so that it runs
cooler (more on this later).
Of course, other mini CMOS cameras from other suppliers should also
be suitable.
How it works
Refer now to Fig.1 for the circuit
details. The output of the CMOS camera is fed through a video processing
circuit that’s rather similar to some of
our video enhancers but modified to
enhance the contrast. The circuit can
also generate a negative version of the
image, without degrading the signal’s
sync pulses.
As shown, the video output from the
camera is terminated in a 100W load,
to provide matching. It then passes
through a 1mF coupling capacitor, after which it splits in three directions:
siliconchip.com.au
The Video Reading Aid skates over the printed page on a plastic skirt (actually
an upside down food container). This keeps the lens at the correct focal distance
and makes the unit easy to operate.
across to CMOS analog switch IC2a,
down to the pin 2 input of sync separator chip IC4 (via a 100W resistor and
100nF capacitor) and further down to
the non-inverting (pin 3) input of video
amplifier stage IC5a.
IC4 (the sync separator) is used to
extract the sync and “back porch”
gating pulses from the video signal.
These are then used to provide control signals for video switches IC2a
and IC2b.
In greater detail, both the back porch
and composite signals are combined
in gate IC3c (used here as a negativeinput OR gate) and used to turn on
switch IC2a, to allow the sync and
blanking information to pass straight
through. At the same time, IC3a inverts
this signal to control switch IC2b. This
latter switch allows the processed
video through to the output buffer
(IC5b) during the “active” part of each
video line.
In effect, IC2a and IC2b operate in
complementary fashion. When IC2a is
on (closed), IC2b is off (open) and vice
versa. This means that when IC2a is
closed, the sync and blanking pulses
are fed through to IC5b while the
active video is blocked. Conversely,
when IC2b is closed, the active video
is fed through and the sync signal is
blocked.
The “back porch” (or burst gating)
pulses from pin 5 of IC4 are also invert-
The Video Reading Aid is based on
a miniature black & white CMOS
camera such as this Swann unit from
DSE.
ed by IC3b and used to control switch
IC2c. This forms an active clamp to
fix the blanking level of the incoming
video to ground potential.
The part of the circuit we’ve just
described is basically the control
section, which ensures that only the
active video is subjected to processing.
Now let’s look at the actual processing
circuitry itself, which involves IC5a,
IC6, transistor Q1 and IC2d.
IC5a is simply a video amplifier
and operates with a fixed gain of two,
as set by the two 510W resistors in its
feedback divider. Its output at pin 1
becomes the “high contrast analog
positive” video signal and is fed to the
first position of selector switch S1.
This same output signal is also fed
to the non-inverting input (pin 2) of
October 2005 39
Par t s Lis t
1 PC board, code 02110051,
122.5 x 57.5mm
1 UB3 utility box, 130 x 67 x
44mm
1 mini CMOS B&W TV camera
(see text)
2 L-brackets, 15 x 15 x 10mm –
see text
1 47mH RF choke (RFC1)
1 3-pole rotary switch (S1)
1 2.5mm PC board mounting DC
connector (CON1)
1 RCA connector, PC board
mounting (CON2)
1 4-pin SIL header strip
4 M3 x 25mm tapped metal
spacers
8 M3 x 6mm machine screws
2 M3 x 10mm machine screws
1 3m length of light figure-8 twin
shielded cable
2 RCA plugs, yellow
1 12V/200mA regulated plug
pack supply with 2.1mm plug
1 2.1mm concentric DC line
socket (to match plugpack)
1 Microsafe plastic food container,
130 x 105 x 60mm (available
from Woolworths)
1 1kW mini horizontal trimpot
(VR1)
1 5kW mini horizontal trimpot
(VR2)
Semiconductors
1 741 op amp (IC1)
IC6, an LM311 high-speed comparator.
This compares it with a reference DC
voltage level on pin 6, as set by trimpot
VR1, to generate a “hard limited” or
rectangular digital equivalent of the
boosted video signal.
IC6 has positive feedback applied
via the 4.7kW, 100W and 33kW resistors, to give it a small amount of hysteresis and ensure clean switching. Trimpot VR2 also allows fine adjustment
of this feedback. The output from pin
7 is then fed to transistor Q1, which
is connected as an emitter follower to
provide buffering.
From there, the buffered signal is
fed to the second position of selector
switch S1, to become the hard limited
or “Digital Positive” video signal. This
signal is also fed to the control gate
(pin 12) of IC2d, used here as an analog
40 Silicon Chip
1 4066B quad bilateral switch
(IC2)
1 4093B quad CMOS Schmitt
NAND gate (IC3)
1 LM1881 video sync separator
(IC4)
1 MAX4451ESA dual video amp
(IC5) (www.futurlec.com.au)
1 LM311 comparator (IC6)
1 PN100 NPN transistor (Q1)
4 5mm high-brightness white
LEDs (LED1-LED4)
3 1N4148 signal diodes (D1,D2,
D5)
2 1N4004 power diodes (D3,D4)
1 1N752 5.6V/400mW zener
diode (ZD1)
Capacitors
1 220mF 16V RB electrolytic
1 10mF 10V RB electrolytic
3 4.7mF 16V tantalum
1 1.0mF MKT metallised polyester
2 100nF MKT metallised polyester
6 100nF multilayer monolithic
1 2.2nF 50V disc ceramic
1 220pF 50V disc ceramic
1 22pF 50V disc ceramic
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
1 680kW
1 2.2kW
1 33kW
2 1kW
1 4.7kW
4 510W
1 3.9kW
4 270W
1 3.3kW
4 100W
1 2.7kW
1 75W
inverter. The inverted video signal appears at pin 11 and is fed to the third
position of S1, to become the “Digital
Negative” video signal.
Limiting circuit
The processed video signal selected
by switch S1 is first fed through a
simple diode limiting circuit involving diodes D1-D3 and a 1kW series
resistor. Diode D3 ensures that the
negative excursions of the signal (ie,
its black level) are clamped at 0.6V
below ground, while D1 and D2 ensure that the positive excursions (ie,
peak white level) are clamped at 1.2V
above ground. The processed video fed
to video switch IC2b is thus limited
to a fairly normal voltage range, so it
shouldn’t cause any overload problems, either in the video output buffer
stage (IC5b) or in the TV set.
The recombined sync and video
signals from switches IC2a and IC2b
are fed to pin 5 of IC5b via a simple
low-pass filter comprising a series
100W resistor and 22pF capacitor. This
removes any switching transients. The
signals are then passed through video
buffer IC5b, which operates with a
fixed gain of two, to compensate for the
losses in the 75W “back termination”
resistor in series with the output. This
is the standard video buffer configuration and is used to allow the output
signal to be fed along relatively long
video cables with minimal degradation.
Power supply
Both the mini video camera and the
video processing circuitry are powered from an external 12V DC source
– either a 12V battery or a regulated
plugpack supply delivering 12V at
up to about 150mA. The four white
LEDs (LED1-LED4) used to provide
illumination are powered from the
same source.
Series diodes D4 and D5 provide
reverse polarity protection and also
reduce the overall supply voltage to
10.8V, which is necessary to protect
both IC5 and the CMOS camera from
over-voltage damage. Because IC5
needs a balanced bipolar supply, IC1
and ZD1 are used to give the 10.8V
supply an active “centre tap”, which
is connected to the circuit’s earth. The
two main supply rails thus become
+5.4V and -5.4V nominal with respect
to ground.
The CMOS camera and all of the
remaining ICs are connected directly
between the +5.4V and -5.4V rails, as
are the illumination LEDs. The latter
are connected in two series strings,
with a 270W resistor in each string
to limit the current to around 17mA.
Provided high-brightness white LEDs
are used, this modest current provides
plenty of illumination.
Construction
All of the video processing circuitry
fits on a PC board measuring 122.5 x
57.5mm and coded 02110051. This
board has a rounded cutout in each
corner, so that it slips neatly inside a
standard UB3 jiffy box. The video selector switch is located near the centre
of the board, while the DC input and
video output connectors at mounted
at one end – see Fig.2.
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
October 2005 41
Fig.1: the circuit uses sync separator IC4 plus gates IC3c & IC3a to drive switches IC2a & IC2b in complementary fashion. IC2a switches through the sync
signal from the camera when closed, while IC2b switches through the active part of the video signal. IC5a, IC6, Q1 & IC1d are used to process the video
signal, to produce normal, enhanced contrast and negative displays, as selected by switch S1.
Fig.2: follow this assembly diagram to install the parts on the PC board, taking care to
ensure correct component polarity. The four high-brightness LEDs and the MAX4451ESA
device are installed on the copper side of the board (see Fig.3).
This is the fully-assembled PC board, mounted
on 25mm tapped spacers. Note how the highbrightness LEDs hang down from the underside.
The CMOS camera module is mounted centrally inside the box (Fig.6). It
sits under the PC board with its lens
protruding through a 16mm hole in the
base and is supported by two small aluminium angle brackets. The adjacent
illumination LEDs are mounted on the
copper side of the PC board at full lead
length, so that the body of each LED
protrudes through a matching 5.5mm
hole in the box.
Fig.2 shows the parts layout on
the PC board. Begin the assembly by
fitting the 12V DC input and video
output connectors, then install the
eight wire links.
Next, fit the 4-pin SIL header which
is used to terminate the leads from
the CMOS camera. This goes just below the 8mm hole that the leads feed
through. That done, you can begin fit42 Silicon Chip
ting the passive components, starting
with the resistors and RF choke and
following these with the two trimpots,
the smaller capacitors and finally the
polarised tantalum and electrolytic
capacitors.
Follow these with diodes D1-D5,
making sure you fit each one the correct way around as shown in Fig.2.
Also, make sure you use the larger
power diodes for D4 and D5 and the
smaller glass signal diodes for D1-D3.
Zener diode ZD1 can then go in, again
taking care with its polarity.
At this stage, it’s a good idea to fit
rotary switch S1. To do this, first cut its
shaft to about 8mm long and carefully
file off any burrs. That done, it can be
mounted on the board with its indexing spigot at the 12 o’clock position, as
shown on the overlay diagram. Push it
all the way down onto the board before
soldering its pins.
The next step is to fit IC1, IC4, IC6,
IC3 and IC2, in that order. Note that
the last two of these devices are CMOS
ICs, so be sure to take the usual precautions to avoid subjecting them to
electrostatic damage – ie, don’t touch
their pins, make sure the tip of your
soldering iron is earthed and solder
their supply pins (pins 7 & 14) first.
It’s also a good idea to “discharge”
yourself by touching an earthed metal
object before handling these devices
or, better still, wear an earthed wrist
strap.
The board “topside” assembly can
now be completed by fitting transistor
Q1. Be sure to orient it as shown, then
flip the board over so that you can fit
IC5 – see Fig.3.
siliconchip.com.au
This IC is in an SOIC-8 surface
mount package which measures
only about 5mm square and has a
pin spacing of just 1.25mm. It is just
large enough to be soldered in place
by hand, provided you take your time
and work carefully.
This job requires a soldering iron
with a very fine tapered bit, which is
also well tinned and clean. You should
use fine gauge (ie, 0.8mm) resin-cored
wire solder, to ensure there are no solder
bridges between adjacent pins.
The best procedure is to hold the
device in position using a wooden
toothpick while you carefully solder
one of its supply leads – either pin 4 or
8. This involves just touching the outer
end of the device lead with the soldering iron and feeding on the solder, so
that a tiny drop melts and bonds the
lead to the pad underneath.
That done, you can quickly solder
the other supply lead and then the rest
of the leads. So the trick is to make one
joint first, to hold the device in place
while you solder all the other leads.
Doctoring the LEDs
Now for the LEDs. These are left until last because, as mentioned earlier,
they first have to be “doctored”.
As supplied, the rounded end of
each LED’s clear body produces a
fairly narrow semi-focused axial beam.
That’s fine for most applications but
not this one, as this would produce
very uneven lighting below the camera
lens, with four bright spots separated
by relatively dark regions.
The cure is simple – by sanding
four small “flats” on the end of each
LED, its light output becomes much
more diffused and this gives more
Fig.3 (left): use fine-gauge solder
and a fine-tipped soldering iron to
install the SOIC device (IC5) on the
underside of the PC board.
Fig.4: here’s how the four highbrightness LEDs are modified to
diffuse the light.
even illumination. Fig.4 shows the
basic idea.
It’s quite easy to sand these flats
by hand, because the LED bodies are
moulded in a fairly soft “water clear”
plastic. A small piece of medium garnet paper wrapped around a piece of
flat wood will do the job quite nicely
and you will only need seven or eight
passes to produce each flat at the correct angle (the exact angle isn’t critical,
by the way).
Don’t try to polish the surfaces after
sanding – just leave them with the
after-sanding matt finish, as this gives
better light diffusion.
After all four LEDs have been
treated, you can fit them to the underside of the board. They must all be
mounted at full lead length (ie, with
the shorter cathode leads just entering
their matching holes), so that they’ll
later protrude through the holes in
the bottom of the box when the board
assembly is fitted.
Before actually installing the LEDs,
it’s a good idea to fit 20mm lengths
of 2mm sleeving over each lead, to
prevent accidental shorts. You can
use red sleeving for the anode leads
and green or black sleeving for the
cathode leads.
After the LEDs have been fitted,
the board assembly can be completed
by attaching four M3 x 25mm tapped
spacers (one at each corner), using
6mm long M3 machine screws.
Box preparation
The box needs to have a number of
holes cut in the bottom and lefthand
Table 2: Capacitor Codes
Value
100nF
2.2nF
220pF
22pF
μF Code IEC Code EIA Code
0.1µF
100n
104
.0022µF 2n2
222
NA
220p
220
NA
22p
22
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
siliconchip.com.au
No.
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
4
4
4
1
Value
680kW
33kW
4.7kW
3.9kW
3.3kW
2.7kW
2.2kW
1kW
510W
270W
100W
75W
4-Band Code (1%)
blue grey yellow brown
orange orange orange brown
yellow violet red brown
orange white red brown
orange orange red brown
red violet red brown
red red red brown
brown black red brown
green brown brown brown
red violet brown brown
brown black brown brown
violet green black brown
5-Band Code (1%)
blue grey black orange brown
orange orange black red brown
yellow violet black brown brown
orange white black brown brown
orange orange black brown brown
red violet black brown brown
red red black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
green brown black black brown
red violet black black brown
brown black black black brown
violet green black gold brown
October 2005 43
Fig.5: here are the drilling details for the plastic case. It’s best to make the larger holes by drilling small-diameter
holes first and then carefully enlarging them to size using a tapered reamer.
44 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.6: this diagram shows how it all fits inside the case. Note that the lid should sit firmly on the switch indexing
ring, to keep it in place when everything is screwed down.
end of the base, plus two holes in the
lid. The positions and sizes of these
holes are shown in Fig.5.
Depending on the box, you may also
have to cut away some of the plastic
ribs moulded on the inside at one end,
near the input/output connectors. This
can be done using a sharp chisel.
Mounting the camera
Once you’ve drilled all the holes,
the mini camera can be prepared
for mounting. First, remove the two
screws which attach it to its existing
U-bracket, then cut the camera’s output cable about 40mm from the body
(or its mini connection plug). Remove
about 15mm of the outer sleeving from
the end, then separate the individual
leads. In most cases, the positive
power lead has red insulation, while
the video lead has yellow insulation.
The negative power lead usually either
has black insulation or is in the form
of a screening ground braid.
If the camera also has an audio
output (many of them do), this is
usually a wire with white insulation.
This output isn’t used in this project,
however.
After separating the various leads,
strip about 5mm of insulation from the
ends and tin the exposed wire ends,
ready for connection to the 4-way
header on the PC board. If you camera
has a ground braid, this should be
siliconchip.com.au
neatly twisted together, sleeved and
tinned as well.
And that’s basically all you have to
do to prepare a camera like the Samsung unit sold by Jaycar. However,
with a camera like the Swann unit sold
by DSE, you also have to disable the
inbuilt IR LEDs (originally intended
for night illumination). That’s done
by removing the back of the case (it’s
usually attached by two tiny screws)
and removing one of the LEDs – either
by cutting its leads with side-cutters
or desoldering them from the internal
PC board.
You don’t have to worry about the
others, because they’re usually connected in a series string.
The camera can now be mounted
inside the box using two small Lbrackets, made from 1mm aluminium
sheet – see Figs.6 & 7. The camera
mounts between the brackets using
the same two screws which held it in
its original U bracket.
It’s a good idea to fit an M2.5 flat
washer on each screw before passing
it through the hole in the L-bracket
and then fit an M2.5 star lockwasher
on each screw before it enters its
tapped hole in the side of the camera.
This arrangement keeps the camera
firmly vertical when both screws are
tightened.
The camera mounting brackets are
then attached to the box using M3
Fig.7: here’s how to make the two
L-brackets that support the mini
CMOS camera.
x 10mm machine screws, nuts and
lockwashers.
Final assembly
Once the camera is mounted, the
PC board (with its mounting spacers)
can be lowered into position. Feed the
camera cable through its board access
hole as you go and make sure the four
LEDs all pass through their respective
holes in the base. The board assembly
can then be secured from underneath
using M3 x 6mm screws into the
tapped spacers.
Finally, connect the camera cable
leads to their respective header pins
on the PC board. The positive power
lead (red) connects to the leftmost pin,
nearest the 1mF MKT capacitor, while
the video wire (yellow) connects to the
October 2005 45
Above: this close-up view shows
the mounting details for IC5.
Below: the plastic skirt has a
clearance hole for the camera lens
and is attached to the base of the
case using double-sided adhesive
strips.
Above: the CMOS camera is attached to the base
of the case and its leads fed up through a small
hole in the PC board.
rightmost pin. If present, the audio
wire (white) is left disconnected – just
tape it up so it can’t make contact with
anything.
If there’s a negative power wire
(black) separate from the ground braid,
solder this to the second pin from the
left and connect the ground braid to the
remaining pin - ie, the third pin from
the left. Alternatively, if there’s no
separate negative power wire, simply
connect the ground braid to BOTH of
the centre pins.
The only other possibility is that
your camera may have just a black
negative wire and no ground braid.
In this case, connect the black wire to
both centre pins instead.
Switch indexing
Before testing the Video Reading
Aid, you have to set the rotary switch
so that it has only three positions and
not four.
To check this, fit its knob temporarily to the spindle and try turning it to
see how many positions are available.
If there’s only three, you can relax. But
46 Silicon Chip
if there are four, the switch will need
to be reset.
To do this, first turn the switch anticlockwise to its end position and then
remove the knob. That done, unscrew
the mounting nut, and remove both it
and the star lockwasher underneath.
This will reveal the indexing stop
washer, which you then have to prise
up using a small screwdriver. The
underside of this washer has a small
spigot, which sits in one of the matching slots in the switch body.
If you look closely you’ll see that
there are a series of numbers moulded
into the switch body, between the slots.
The idea is to find the slot between
the numbers “3” and “4” and refit the
indexing washer with its spigot in that
slot. Check that the switch now has
only three positions, then refit the star
lockwasher and nut.
Fitting the plastic skirt
The plastic skirt fitted to the unit
is actually an upside-down food container. The recommended unit (see
Parts List) measures 130 x 105 x 60mm
deep and has an indent in the centre
of its base which provides clearance
for the LEDs. The unit is also curved
towards the sides, which means that it
siliconchip.com.au
naturally clears the four corner mounting screws that go into the spacers.
Attaching it is hardly rocket science
– just cut a hole in the centre to clear
the camera lens, attach some doublesided tape to its base and attach it to
the bottom of the box.
If you use a different food container
from the one we used, then you may
have to also drill holes to clear the
LEDs and the mounting screws.
Testing
Now for the smoke test! First, set the
rotary switch to fully anticlockwise
(Medium Contrast), set trimpot VR1
to fully anticlockwise and set VR2 to
its mid-range position. That done, connect the Reading Aid’s video output
cable to the video input of a TV set
and apply power.
Note: you must use a 12V regulated
plugpack or 12V battery. Do not use
an unregulated plugpack, otherwise
you’ll damage the camera and IC5.
If all is well, you should see a bluishwhite glow from the illumination LEDs
underneath the Reading Aid box.
Now place the unit on some printed
material. The image will probably be
quite blurry initially – just adjust the
lens until you get the correct focus by
rotating it clockwise or anticlockwise.
This will have to be done by trial and
error, since the plastic skirt is in the
way when the unit is resting on a
surface but it shouldn’t take long to
get it just right.
You may also have to adjust the
brightness and contrast controls on
the TV to get a good image.
If there’s no image or none of the
LEDs is alight, you’ve probably got the
power supply the wrong way around.
No damage will result from this – just
reverse the connections and all should
be OK. However, if the image does
appear but only two of the LEDs are
alight, the odds are that you’ve connected at least one of the dark LEDs
around the wrong way.
If all LEDs are alight and you have a
clear image on the TV, turn the rotary
switch to its centre position. The image
will probably go very dark but if you
turn trimpot VR1 slowly clockwise
with a small screwdriver, it should
gradually turn into a very “contrasty”
but still clear black-and-white image.
The correct setting for VR1 will be
quite obvious – just set it for maximum clarity and best contrast.
If you can’t achieve this by adjusting
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.8: check your PC board for defects by comparing it with this full-size etching
pattern before installing any of the parts.
Fig.9: this is the full-size artwork for the front panel. It goes on the
lid and can be protected using wide strips of clear adhesive tape.
VR1 alone, you may also need to adjust
VR2 slightly one way or the other.
Once the correct settings have been
found, try switching S1 to the third
position (fully clockwise). The image
should change into a high contrast
negative, with black type on a white
background turning into white type
on a black background, which many
people with visual impairment find
easier to read.
Final assembly
Assuming it all checks out, disconnect the power supply and remove
the knob, mounting nut and star lockwasher from the rotary switch. The box
lid can then be slipped into position
over the switch shaft and should rest
on the top of the box, with the switch
locating spigot passing up through the
small hole that’s located just behind
the main spindle hole – see Fig.5.
Image Washed Out?
Depending on the high-brightness
LEDs supplied and/or the amount of
ambient light at the reading location,
you might find that the on-screen image is washed out (ie, over-bright).
In that case, try throttling back
the LED brightness by increasing
their series 270W resistors to around
680W. Alternatively, if you have plenty
of ambient light, you may get a better
result if the LEDs are taped over (or
the unit modified so that they can be
switched out of circuit).
Be prepared to experiment to get a
good picture if necessary.
All that remains now is to fit the
four lid fastening screws and then
refit the star lockwasher and nut to the
switch ferrule. Your Video Reading Aid
should is now ready for use.
SC
October 2005 47
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
You can’t have enough protection
Protection circuits are a vital part of modern
TV sets, to prevent widespread damage to
expensive components when a critical fault
occurs. But sometimes, it’s a protection
circuit itself that causes problems.
Between 1992 and 1997, Panasonic
released a range of TV sets covering
the MX1, MX2, MX3, M16 and C150
chasses. The C150 later became the
C150A when the B+ was increased
from +115V to +125B. It was during
this period that Panasonic also began
using more IC regulators and optocouplers (the C150 series has four IC
regulators and three optocouplers).
Recently I had a Panasonic TC29R20
come in with Mr Moss, who complained that it kept “cutting out”.
Well, when I switched it on, I
couldn’t even get it to “cut in”.
Most of the faults that occur in this
popular 9-year old set are well-known
by now and this set was no exception.
There is a series of modifications that
are designed specifically to fix these
particular symptoms (intermittent
shutdown), which were released on
11th July, 1997 by Panasonic Technical Information. In particular, two
resistors and two capacitors have been
48 Silicon Chip
changed to improve the threshold level
of the overcurrent protection circuit.
These parts are R835 (now 0.33W),
R848 (33kW), C831 (3.3mF) and C838
(0.1mF).
These parts hadn’t been replaced
in this set, so this was a pretty good
place to start. Unfortunately, it made
no difference – the set was now completely dead.
Even though the above modification
didn’t change anything, I thought it
wise to also replace all the common
components that cause the same
symptoms. There are nine all told
and I had already changed four. The
remaining five are electrolytic capacitors C817, C820, C824, C455 & C1121
in the switchmode power supply. Even
in the event that this didn’t fix the
fault, I couldn’t send this set back to
Mr Moss with a warranty when these
components are known to fail.
Besides, they don’t take very long
to replace.
Items Covered This Month
•
•
•
•
•
Panasonic TC29R20 TV set
(C150A chassis)
Teac Televideo MV4822 (CP420 chassis)
LG PF60A3Q rear-projection
TV set (MP87A chassis)
Philips 46PP8621/79 rear
projection TV set (DPTV325AA
chassis).
Sony KD32DX40AX FD Trinitron TV set (FE-2, SCC-U78A
– A chassis)
Anyway, this didn’t fix the fault but it
did change the symptoms slightly. The
set would now occasionally come on
for a few minutes (with perfect picture
and sound) and then cut out.
When the set is on, the red LED is on,
being fed by the 5V rail from C1106,
which is in turn fed by 16V from D812
and Q802. This rail drops to 9V in the
Standby mode. The three optocouplers
between the primary and the secondary are for voltage control feedback
and standby switching (D803) and to
provide protection (D811 and D836).
In this case, I was beginning to suspect that it was the protection circuits
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that were closing the set down. When the set came on, I
managed to check that the main power rail at TPE1 was
+125V but couldn’t confirm that the set subsequently
switched off because it might have intermittently gone
high. However, I did confirm that there was +325V coming out of the main bridge rectifier (D806) – ie, across
C809.
It was time to disable the protection circuitry stepby-step until the set stayed on. This can be a bit dodgy
if there is a real fault on that line, because it will now
have the opportunity to really destroy other parts without hindrance.
The entire protection circuit can be switched off by
disconnecting D823 on the primary hot side which feeds
Q827. This told me that the set itself was OK, because
the picture and sound were rock steady and there was
no sign of any strain. This meant that it was highly likely
that the protection circuits themselves were faulty.
Next, I resoldered D823, then moved to the cold side
of the supply and shorted Q805’s base to ground (emitter). This too allowed the set to switch on and function
reliably.
One of the most common faults in this set is dry joints
on the vertical output IC (IC451, LA7838). If this fault is
allowed to fester, it will eventually destroy the IC and
cause too much current to be drawn from the 24V rail.
This is detected by Q454 which in turn switches on Q805.
However, this wasn’t the case with Mr Moss’s set.
Gradually, I disabled each of the protection feeder
circuits until at last I found that disconnecting D832
allowed the set to function. This was surprising, as I
had already replaced C831 and R835 in this main B+
siliconchip.com.au
October 2005 49
Serviceman’s Log – continued
circuitry and decided to replace it –
just in case.
Well, Mrs Austin and I were both
lucky as this was the cause of the problem. After replacing it, the set came on
and ejected the tape correctly. And the
relay stopped chattering.
The rear-projection LG
current protection circuit, making it
less sensitive. Basically, this circuit
includes Q831 which is switched on
if the voltage across R835, the main
HT feed resistor, rises too far, due to
excess current. This in turn switches
transistor Q805 on via D832.
In all, a total of seven components
are involved in this circuit and they
all tested OK in-circuit. Replacing
Q831 (2SA1018) finally fixed the fault,
although the original tested perfectly
after removal (IC = 0mA, IB = 4.56mA,
hfe = 91, Ir = 2.5mA, VBE = 0.73 and
no collector emitter leakage).
I wasn’t that surprised because leakage can often develop between the
leads of a transistor due to dirt and
corrosion – especially if the set lives
near the beaches. Just by moving the
leads slightly (eg, when removing the
transistor) can cause this corrosion
to “flake off”, restoring it to working
order. That said, it’s quicker, cheaper
and more reliable just to replace it.
Teac Televideo
Mrs Austin brought in a smart silver
little 1999 Teac Televideo MV4822
50 Silicon Chip
(CP-420 chassis). The problem was a
tape jammed inside and a relay that
was chattering on and off continuously.
Unfortunately, I had no circuit for
this model but being adventurous,
decided to go in blind. I started with
a careful examination of the whole set,
beginning at the power supply, looking for “hot spots”, marks or stains on
the PC board and on components that
might have been under stress.
Luckily, the voltages were actually
marked on the printed circuit board
(bless the Teac designers; if only other
manufacturers would do this more
often). The main power supply itself
seemed OK but although the EVER
6V rail was correct, the EVER 8V rail
was down to only 5.5V. The 6V rail
is usually for the microprocessor and
digital circuits, while the 8V rail fed
the remote control relay solenoid.
This 8V rail is supplied by a separate
switchmode standby power supply
and ICI807 (TOP210) was running hot,
its legs turning brown. Before ordering a new one, I noticed a small 47mF
25V electrolytic (C840) in its control
Mr and Mrs Paterson have a massive
60-inch ((150cm) LG rear projection
TV (model PF60A3Q, MP87A chassis). Its problem was that the picture
was flashing black and white and the
sound was giving a knocking noise
intermittently.
Well, the set was so big that it
wouldn’t fit into our Toyota Hi-Ace
for transport back to the workshop.
As a result, I removed the top screen
assembly so that at least we could take
out the base assembly.
Back on the bench, I fixed up a temporary screen just below the ceiling using
a large sheet of cardboard. At least, this
would allow me to monitor what was a
very intermittent problem.
I started by checking the supply
rails and then the deflection outputs
but everything was rock steady.
Gradually, my attention moved to the
small signal board which also has the
twin tuners, IF stage and Picture-inPicture circuitry, plus the AV interface
boards. I tried heating, freezing and
vibrating these circuits but derived
no new clues.
LG were helpful and suggested
replacing crystal XT75 but this too
made no difference. Finally, despite
its cost of $500, in the end an “executive decision” was made to replace the
whole panel.
Well, the new one was fitted and the
picture was now consistently perfect
but there was no sound at all!
After a lot of crawling around on
the floor on my hands and knees, an
audio amplifier probe finally revealed
a problem with the relay RL601. It had
poor contacts, so I replaced it with one
from an old board.
Finally, the set was loaded back
into the van and reassembled back at
the Patersons. After reassembly, it all
worked properly. Thank goodness.
Fixing Philips
One of the most common faults in
projection TVs is the failure of the
convergence output ICs.
Recently, we had a Philips 2002
46PP8621/79 using a DPTV325AA
siliconchip.com.au
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October 2005 51
Serviceman’s Log – continued
chassis. Both the STK392-120 ICs
(ie, 7044 and 7045) on the C4 smallsignal module were short circuit and
the reason wasn’t obvious until you
examined the IC heatsink. Insufficient
silicone heat transfer compound had
been applied in the factory and on
both ICs, there was a large air bubble,
resulting in overheating due to poor
heat transference.
Applying an even layer of thermal
compound over the entire area of
the new IC fixed the problem completely.
The mystery fault
I encountered a mystery this week,
for which I have no answer.
I was called out to Mrs Downie’s
Sony 1997 KV-G2152 (BG-2S chassis),
which had no sound. Normally, these
are pretty straightforward to fix and
the cause is fairly obvious, like the earphone socket has become dry jointed
or the headphone lead is frayed.
In this case, I found that capacitor
C253 (100mF 16V) which hangs off the
11V rail on the cathode of D251 and
the emitter of Q202, had exploded –
literally.
Mrs Downie said she was watching
the TV when the sound suddenly died.
She claimed she heard no bang or any
other loud noise.
IC203 (TA8248K), the sound output
IC, was also dead and replacing both
these components fixed the problem
completely.
But why, or rather how, did this fault
come about? There were no other problems I could find with the set and you
would expect something like a power
surge to cause this violent fault to occur but apparently there was none – it
happened on a normal sunny day for
no reason. Explain that.
The big Sony
Mr Mosely insisted we collect his
heavy 2002 Sony KD32DX40AX FD
Trinitron TV (FE-2 SCC-U78A – A
chassis) when I said we would be unable to fix it in his home.
When we picked it up, he said that
it had gone off while he was watching it and now only the standby light
flashed. When I got it on the bench, I
found that it gave one green flash and
then two red flashes, indicating an
Over Current Protection error (OCP).
A quick check soon revealed that
the horizontal output transistor Q533
BU2515DX had gone short circuit. And
that was because flyback transformer
T511 (Part No.1-453-308-41) – which
was the real culprit – was arcing.
Replacing these parts quickly restored the sound and picture but I
wasn’t quite out of the woods yet – a
4:3 picture with a bright object on it
produced noticeable “blooming” of
the raster.
It didn’t take a genius to figure out
there was problem in the ABL (Automatic Brightness Limiter) circuit.
This comes off pin 11 of the flyback
transformer and is held down by two
resistors to ground – R518 6.8kW and
R510 470kW. The former had lost a
little chunk out of its body where the
grey band should have been and was
open circuit.
Replacing it finished the repair
properly. Now the difficult bit – getting
SC
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52 Silicon Chip
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A fascinating gift.
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Cat. GG-2170
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"Clock Watchers" Clock Kit
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49
Remote Control Sailing Ship
This well
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Relieve stress with a bit of
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Cat. MG-4510
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Ref: SC June
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249
1
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hours of music and run for about
Cat. GE-4002
15 hours on one charge of the
$
.00
internal battery.
99
Portable iPod / MP3 Player
Dock and Speakers
Cat. XC-5163
$
.95
89
99
69
Cat. MB-3650
$
.95
19
Cat. XC-5162
$
.95
34
Cat. WC-7692
$
.95
14
iPod Firewire Data Cable
Cat. WC-7690
$
.95
14
iPod Data / Charging Cradle & Cables
5.1 PC Speaker System
Very useful!
Charge and update your iPod easily
with this cradle. It will charge the
battery and you can connect the
USB or Firewire cable to
update your playlists etc.
Cat. XC-5169
$
.95
89
Cat. XC-4930
$
.95
29
iPod not
included
179
Portable USB MP3 Player
Play music from any
USB Flash Disk.
The system looks like a pair of classy
portable speakers but features an in-built MP3 decoder
that will play MP3 files straight from any Flash Disk.
The speakers are small, light, and stylish and can go
just about anywhere. The system also incorporates an
external input so you can play other devices such as
CD players or Walkman etc. Operates on 9 VDC
and a mains plug pack is included.
Cat. XC-5161
$
.95
DUE MID OCTOBER
89
Wireless Internet Antenna
Having trouble
getting unwired?
This wireless modem
antenna replaces the
existing 'rabbit ear'
on your wireless
broadband modem
and boosts the
signal to improve
coverage. It can also
improve performance modem not
in difficult areas. The
included
Cat. AR-3274
antenna can be mounted
$
.95
inside the house or in a protected
outside location for optimum reception. Supplied with
N type to MCX lead & mounting bracket.
•Size 135(W) x 160(H) x 30(D)mm
129
iPod USB Data Cable
Attention PC users!
A replacement cable for a
lost or broken iPod data
cable. Works with all iPods
that use the 30 pin Apple
connector. Commonly used
on Windows computers.
USB 2.0 Multimedia Speaker Pair
2
Cat. GE-4012
$
.95
Use your USB flash drive and this clever device
to play your favourite MP3 files in the car.
The unit is the size of a normal car
cigarette lighter plug and is
fitted with a USB socket.
The combination allows
you to play your MP3 files
by transmitting them to
your car's FM radio.
You can also use the
Cat. GE-4030
device to listen to an ordinary portable $
.95
CD, DVD or MP3 player,or any other
audio sources.
Charge on the go!
Connects to your
car's cigarette lighter
socket to charge your
iPod via the Apple 30
pin connector. Great for
travellers.
A digital camera for under $200!
This easy to use camera
fits in the palm of your
hand. The recorded
video can be
transferred to a
computer for editing or
simply viewed directly
on any TV
with AV
inputs.
Features
include a 3.1 Megapixel
software resolution for stills, 1.5" colour LCD screen,
5 layer glass lens; 32MB internal memory, SD/MMC
expansion slot, 4 x digital
Cat. QC-3230
SAVE
zoom, internal microphone
$
.00
$20
and lots more! Was $199
SAVE
$20
iPod Car Charger
Featuring 1.5" micro
speakers, & an internal
amplifier, they sound
great. It all folds up to a
neat 286g package when
not in use. Powered by
4 x AAA batteries not
included.
•iPod not included.
Compact, stylish and functional!
This unit will accept a stereo signal,
or decoded AC-3 inputs and
distribute it to produce a
wonderfully presented
sound stage. The unit has
five 2.5" satellite speakers, and a 6.5"
woofer with a total system output of
55WRMS.
Time flies when you're exercising!
Built in MP3 player
stores up to two
hours of music.
Includes calorie
counting, distance
monitor as well as a
clock. Supplied with USB interface
cables & earphones. Size: 68(L) x
39(W) x 22.5(H)mm. Was $119.95
Wireless MP3 Modulator For In-Car Use
MP3 Player Back-Phones
These trendy two channel
speakers plug into your
computer's USB port. No
need for messy cabling or
external power supplies like
conventional multimedia
speakers.
Pedometer with 128MB MP3 Player
Mini Digital Video Camera
PCI Wireless Network Interface Card
Features include
IEEE 802.11g wireless
network compatible.
Interoperation with
IEE802.11b
11Mbps networks
•64/128Bit WEP
encryption
•54Mbps high speed transfer rate
Cat. YN-8066
•40 - 100m indoor range
$
.95
•100 - 300m outdoor range.
•Low power consumption
•Compatible with Win98/SE/2000/ME/XP
•Plug and Play compatible
69
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
RIBBON TWEETERS
Affordable
at last!
Spectacular
U.S. Stock
Purchase
Surround Speaker Floor Stands
2.4GHz Wireless Audio Video Senders
These stand are sold as a pair and
are suitable for any bookshelf speaker.
Black in colour, they have a sand cast
triangular base and have adjustable height
from 640mm to 1250mm. The speaker
holding bracket is adjustable and
accommodates speakers Cat. CW-2850
.95
up to about 185mm wide. $
Watch cable TV all over the house!
79
All Audiophiles know
that ribbon tweeters are the
ultimate speaker
for smooth high (and very
high) frequency performance.
3 Piece Surround Sound Add - On
Enjoy the
surround sound
experience.
The centre
SAVE
speaker contains
$60
Unfortunately, a good ribbon tweeter can cost between a screened 4" mid / woofer & 2" tweeter
$100 and $500 to thousands for some custom German with a 6 ohm impedence. The two rear
Cat.
CS-2465
ones. Even high-end enclosure manufacturers all opt
speakers contain a 4" full range speaker $
.95
for dome tweeters simply because "ribbons" add too
with a 4 ohm impedence.Was $99.95
much to system cost.
Jaycar have made a massive stock purchase from a
Heavy Duty Speaker
major US organ manufacturer who makes both pipe
Tripod Stand
and electronic organs. They are an 80+ year old
This rugged stand extends to just
company and we cannot tell you who they are! They
under 2 metres. Supports speakers,
are restructuring production of their high-end organs
and their stock of ribbon tweeters have been sold to us combo amps, lighting rigs up to and
around 45kilos. Tough rubber feet are
far, far below the 10,000+ factory gate price! Their
mounted under each tripod leg for
massive loss is your gain.
safe, non slip support. Made from
The tweeter is made in Japan by the venerable
strong aircraft grade aluminium for
manufacturer, Foster. The device itself has multiple
easy transportation Cat. CW-2860
ribbon diaphragm components in same-phase
.00
and long service life. $
configuration. There are two basic types of ribbon
Don’t
Miss
Out!
39
tweeters, static or dynamic type. This product is the
dynamic type which has conventional impedance (8
ohms) and is more efficient. Each speaker is supplied
with a datasheet and securely packed.
Even if you do not have any specific need for a ribbon
tweeter at the moment, we strongly urge you to
consider purchasing it for future use. At the price we
are offering, we expect OEM (manufacturer) interest.
As it is a distress stock buy, quantities are limited. On
many occasions in the past we have warned
customers of this and the slow ones miss out.
Finally, we think that technically, two tweeters per
enclosure would be the way to go. They should not be
overdriven. Note also the fairly high crossover
frequency.
Type:
Regular-phase 100mm ribbon tweeter
Power:
20 Watts RMS (cont), 50W max.
SPL:
92dB/Watt.
Freq Resp: 6K-40KHz +/-2dB (SUBLIME!).
Impedance: 8Ω.
Crossover Frequency: 6,400Hz (12dB / Octave).
In keeping with this suggestion, we have a special
price for a set of 4 pieces.
Cat. CT-2023
$
.95EA
39
or buy as a set
of 4 for $136.00
That”s only $34 each!
Speaker Grilles
These grilles are designed to look like mag wheels. To
compliment the look of your car. They are fitted with 6
blue high brightness LEDs which create a great
iridescent blue glow to enhance your installation. LEDs
are less fragile than neons, so they won't blow, and
they use very little power. All require connection to
your car's 12V power.
6.5”
Cat. AX-3570
$ .95 pr
9
6” x 9” Cat. AX-3572
$
.95 pr
14
10”
Cat. AX-3574
$
.95 pr
12”
Cat. AX-3576
$
.95 pr
14
19
109
69
Extra receiver to suit
Cat. AR-1833 Was $69
Cat. AR-1833
$
.95
49
SAVE
$19.05
As Above but with Remote Control Extender
With the addition of an IR
remote control repeater you
can change the channel of the
source device etc from the
Cat. AR-1830
other room.
$
.95
Was $139
SAVE
$49.05
89
Extra receiver to suit
Cat. AR-1831 Was $89
Cat. AR-1831
$
.95
69
SAVE
$19.05
CAR AMPLIFIER DEAL
In Wall Speakers
A great mounting solution!
If space is limited, or you simply
don’t want free standing speakers,
then these are a great option for you.
8 ohm impedance allows them to be
used in an array of applications.
Supplied with attractive white baffle
covers.
•In ceiling speakers also available!
2 Way
Cat. CS-2440 $99.00
3 Way
Cat. CS-2442 $149.00
Kevlar Cone Coaxial
Speakers
Fantastic quality!
This new range of coaxial speakers offer high
performance and great looks. They retain the
large super tweeter that made last year’s
range great, but the new Kevlar cones take them into
a realm of their own. Check out our catalogue on page
229 or our website for full details.
Celebrate our hot new car
audio range! Buy any of our
amps together with any of
our top quality splits and
receive a massive 25%* off
full retail price on power
and speaker cable
purchased at the same
time!
*Does not apply to already
discounted cable prices.
Check out
our massive
amplifier range
4" Kevlar 2 Way
Cat.
•40WRMS power CS-2320
$
•86.5dB sensitivity 99.95
Cat.
5" Kevlar 2 Way
•50WRMS power $CS-2322
.95
•89.5dB sensitivity 109
Amplifiers
Cat.
6.5" Kevlar 2 Way CS-2324
•75WRMS power
•91.3dB sensitivity
6" x 9" 2 Way
•80WRMS power
•93.5dB sensitivity
119.95
$
2x80WRMS
Cat.
CS-2328
139
$
.95
6.5" Precision Response Kevlar Splits
At their incredible
price, these
speakers sound
every bit as good as
sets two and three
times the price
This new range of coaxial
speakers offer high performacne and top value for
money. They contain a massive super tweeter and a
quality kevlar woofer. Check out our
Cat. CS-2329
$
.95
cataolgue and website for full details.
pr
149
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
Send a signal from a DVD player, set-top box etc., to
another room, without the use of any cables! You can
use as many receivers as you like, without degrading
signal quality. Each unit comes supplied with stereo
audio and video transmitter and receiver, mains
plugpacks & RCA cables. Transmission range is up to
100m, but depends on the type of construction
materials used.
Cat. AR-1832
SAVE
Was $99
$
.95
$29.05
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
2 x 80WRMS <at> 4 ohms
2 x 100WRMS <at>2 ohms
1 x 200WRMS <at> 4 ohms
Cat. AA-0420 $169.95
4x100WRMS
4x50WRMS
•4 x 130WRMS <at> 4 ohms
•4 x 190WRMS <at> 2 ohms
4 x 50WRMS <at> 4ohms
4 x 80 WRMS <at> 2ohms •2 x 380WRMS <at> 4 ohms
2 x 160WRMS <at> 4 ohms Icon - respnse precision
Cat. AA-0426 $299.95
Cat. AA-0422 $199.95
2 x 150WRMS
2 x 150WRMS <at> 4 ohms
2 x 255WRMS <at>2 ohms
1 x 500WRMS <at>4 ohms
Cat. AA-0424 $249.95
800WRMS Class D
1 x 400WRMS <at> 4 ohms
1 x 700WRMS <at> 2 ohms
1 x 820WRMS <at> 1 ohm
Cat. AA-0428 $399
3
R E M OT E C O N T R O L F U N
Multi-function Vacuum Cleaner
Sit back and relax while your
robot cleans the house!
It automatically moves
around obstacles, and an
intelligent optical sensor
assists in avoiding walls
and obstructions. Works
best to supplement your
manual cleaner, not replace it.
Was $199
SAVE
$20
Cat. GH-1395
179
$
Scream Machine
Remote Controlled High Speed
Demolition Derby Jeep
Shocking Battle Tanks
This is one
tough cookie!
Smash it, crash
it and it still
comes back for
more. Every panel
on the car is detachable and can
Cat. GT-3200
miss-align, fly open or even come
$
.95
off in a crash. Suitable for ages 10 up.
Red model also available GT-3202
59
Nicky the Remote Control Clownfish
Scare the daylights out of
someone when you activate
the scream box. It will shriek
one of six sounds out loud, and
they won't know it is you pressing
Cat. GH-1083
the button!
Nicky the Remote Control Clownfish
SAVE
will add colour and delight
$10
to your fish tank.
It is a realistic looking fish
which can be manoeuvred
left, right, forwards
or backwards.
Requires 3 x AAA
Cat. GT-3225
batteries (not included)
$
.95
Was $29.95
19.95
$
Remote Controlled Giggle Machine
19
Put a smile on someone’s
dial! Just press the remote
control for one of six amusing
giggles to get eveyone
laughing.
Cat. GH-1085
Mini Remote Control Yellow Submarine
Due to popular demand, we
have extended our remote
control range to include the mini
remote control yellow
submarine!
SAVE
$5
Have hours of fun making
the submarine chase the
fish or why not play with it
in the bath tub or pool. Hours
of fun for young and old!
Blue model also
available GT-3045
Cat. GT-3044
Was
$
.95
$24.95
19.95
$
New Improved Fart Machine
Our best fart machine yet!
With twice as many realistic
sounds as our regular model,
this new fart box is sure to
shock everyone at a party
with disgusting
Cat. GH-1087
realism.
$
.95
19
No Guts - No Glory'.
These futuristic
battle tanks actually
pack a punch and
you will cop a
mild electric
shock if your tank
gets a direct hit
from your opponent.
Cat. GH-1099
79.95
$
SAVE
$20
Was $99.95
3 in 1 Mars Rover,
Boat & Submarine
Built to tackle
difficult terrain,
this versatile
vehicle will get
you through almost anything. It is actually three
vehicles-in-one and will travel over land and, when the
wheels are released, it will skim across the water as a
boat or dive under it like a submarine.
Cat. GT-3420
4 x AA batteries are required for the
$
.95
vehicle 3 x AAA for the remote.
49
Remote Controlled Hovercraft
This is really a very shallow-draft boat
designed to look like a hovercraft.
It's not designed to operate on land,
but on the water, it is a speedy little
craft that is very manoeuvrable and
will zip around the bath tub, pool or
fish pond at surprising
speed. The craft has an
internal battery that
is charged from the
battery box supplied with
the package.
Requires 6 x AA batteries available
Cat. GT-3410
$
.95
separately. Use our SB-2425 4 packs.
29
19
LIGHT UP GADGETS
L U X E O N TO R C H E S
G R E AT N E W PA R T Y LI G H T I N G R A N G E !
Disco Party Light Set
1 Watt Luxeon LED Torch
Heavy duty aluminium, it
is lightweight and robust.
Requires 3 x AA batteries
not included. Was $59.95
Cat. ST-3333
29
$
SAVE
$30
.95
3W Luxeon LED Torch
The torch head rotes to change
from narrow or to a wide angle
beam concentration.
Requires 3 x AA batteries.
Cat. ST-3334
89.95
$
Silver 5W LED Aluminium Torch
This LED emitter is the highest
flux LEDs in the world delivering
the brightest solid-state lighting
solutions available.
69
Cat. ST-3338
129.95
$
5 Watt Torch
Finished in heavy duty
aluminum, it produces
blinding white light.
Requires 6 x AA batteries Was $159
Luxeon Head Torch
This head torch is sure to
outlast any conventional
incandescent torch.
Requires 3 x AAA batteries
Cat. ST-3321
69
$
4
.95
Create your own dance party atmosphere!
Get your party started the right way
with some creative
lighting to help set the
mood. Just add music
and you’re set! All mains
powered. Kit contains:
•20cm mirror ball.
•1RPM mirror ball motor.
•PAR36 spotlight.
Cat. SL-2978
•PAR36 globe.
$
.95
•4 x coloured gels for PAR36.
SAVE
$59.05
Cat. ST-3339
99.95
$
Lighting Clamp
Sturdy mounting!
Lighting clamps are used for securing
pinspot lights and accessories to
lighting stands. Measures
78(L) x 45(D)mm.
PAR56 300W Spotlight
Heaps of power!
Great for theatrical and effects
lighting, it includes an
adjustable mounting bracket,
quick change gel holder, and an
800mm mains lead.
•Globe not included.
Cat. SL-2974
$
.95
Use SL-2977 $34.95
49
75W Strobe Light
Super bright!
This features a super
bright 75W flash tube and
can be timed with music
or independently.
Cat. SL-2999
$
.95
Designed for
domestic use only
79
Cat. SL-2969
4.95
$
PAR36 Spotlight with Colour Wheel & Motor
Set the mood!
The advanced screw-cap globe holder
design, is much better than the older spring-clip
style. The 245mm five-colour wheel and
motor is easily mounted for simple
installation.
Cat. SL-2963
•Globe not included.
$
.95
Use SL-2964 $9.95
44
Mini Strobe Light
Great for parties!
Features a variable flash
rate up to 10Hz, and is
mains powered. Uses a
Xenon flash tube, and
measures 85(W) x 50(H)
x 125(D)mm.
Was $29.95
SAVE
$5
Cat. SL-2990
24.95
$
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
The Amazing Flygun!
Cat. YS-5545
7
$ .95
Don’t wait until you get home for
that well deserved massage this
massage pad can deliver straight
away! Designed to be used in the
car, home or office, it is lightweight to
take anywhere with you. It fits over
most seats thanks to its elastic
straps. It also has a built-in heater and 3 variable
intensity levels to make your
Cat. GH-1753
massage that much more
$
.95
comfortable.
49
SAFE
FOR AGES 8
AND UP
Intelligent Automatic Rubbish Bin
UHF TRANSCEIVER DEAL
40 Ch UHF CB Transceiver
SAVE
New low price!
$5
This lightweight handheld
transceiver is suitable for all
manner of professional and
leisure activities. This is a quality UHF
radio and, whilst just 0.5W
output, it is NOT a toy. Open
field transmission range is up
to an incredible 5km, with
typical city range up to 1km.
Was $39.95
Ionic Shoe Dryer
Remote Controlled Massage
Seat Cover Pad
Keep the kids entertained!
The Amazing
Flygun is a safe,
fun, and effective
method of killing
flies and
mosquitoes. Launch
the spring powered swatter at
your target! It is safe, fun and
really does work!
Cat. DC-1010
Cat. DC-1010
$34.95ea
or buy 2 for
$59.95
Eliminate odours from your shoes with this
innovative Ionic Shoe Dryer.
As you wear your shoes, the
dampness of your feet as
well as weather
conditions can cultivate
the growth of mould, fungus
and other assorted microbes.
Controlled by a micro-computer, it
Cat. GH-1194
$
.95
adopts an advanced "ionic breeze
technology" which will neutralize the
odour and eliminate the nasty growth.
29
Ionic Air Purifier
Hands full? No worries!
Just wave your hand, foot, or
whatever you can in front of the
intelligent rubbish bin and the lid
will open automatically! It will
also close back up again, so you
never need to touch it.
Cat. GG-2315
23L capacity.
$
.95
Better overall health.
This ionic air purifier
is much more than
just an effective
odour removing air
purification system. It silently fills the air
with negative ions which research shows can
Cat. GH-1196
help promote good health and
$
.95
improve vitality.
39
Bathroom Scales with
Electronic Body Fat Analysis
69
SAVE
$30
Negative Ion Generator with Filter
Do you know how much
excess body fat you are
carrying, or are you one of
the lucky few who are within
healthy limits.
These excellent scales can be
calibrated for use by 8 different
people. The scales use 'body
mass index' to measure the
body fat content of each person to
within 0.5%. Requires 2 x CR2032
batteries included. Was $89.95
Cat. QM-7249
59.95
$
Create fresh clean air
in your home or office
with this air purification
system with negative ion
generator. Ultra modern in
design and with silent
operation, this is possibly the
world's thinnest air purifier, effectively capturing
airborne pollutants and allergens to
Cat. GH-1198
$
.95
give you a healthy clean environment.
99
ALARMS / SECURITY / ACCESS CONTROL
Four Zone Security Alarm System
with Simple Two Wire Hookup
The alarm is so simple to set up that DIY
enthusiasts will love it!
All system
components
(sensors, sirens)
are connected
to the control
unit via a
two-core
non-polar
flat wire.
The unit has a built-in keypad with status LED and
three modes or operation (Home, Out, Off).
Supplied with: •Main control unit •Two PIRs
•Four Door or Window contact reed switch
•External Siren
Cat. LA-5475
•240VAC Adaptor
$
.00
•50m two-core flat wire and clips
•Screw/wall plug packs
•Main unit: 160(H) x185(W) x35(D)mm
•Extra PIR to suit LA-5476 $29.95
199
Open the door from
anywhere! This great unit acts
as an intercom, with a wireless
receiver. Take it out the back, or
around the house. It also has
electronic door strike control,
so you can let your visitors in
too!
Cat. AI-5510
129.00
$
Downlight Style CCD Colour Camera
Not your conventional type
camera. This 1/3” Sharp CCD
camera incorporates a
downright holder for flush
mounting on any ceiling or flat
surface. This camera is a perfect
alternative to conventional Dome type
cameras. It provides 0 - 90 degree
adjustable pivoting camera head for securing that
perfect angle. Holder is finished
in polished metal giving a classy
Cat. QC-3503
and stylish look.
$
.95
249
3 Zone Wireless Home Alarm
Ideal for tennants! The
system is supplied with a
control panel equipped
with keypad, and a
built-in siren. It
also comes
with a
wireless PIR,
reed switch, and panic button which operate within a
50m range. There are also provisions for hard-wired
Cat. LA-5125
expansion if desired.
$
.00
See our catalogue or website
for full specifications.
199
Weatherproof Colour Reversing
Camera for Cars
Reversing made safe!
With the use of a screen or
monitor, you can obtain
much better vision than
otherwise possible. It mounts flush
into your bumper bar or similar, and is
powered straight from 12VDC.
Cat. QC-3452
See installation article in
$
.00
April Silicon Chip.
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
RFID Access Control System
Wireless Intercom with
Door Strike Release
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
149
No contact required!
Control entry to
a doorway, or
an entire
building. The
unit can be
used in a
network of
locks
administered
by a central location, or just to control access
through a front door. It is 12V powered, so you can
use it in remote locations, and the reader unit is
Cat. LA-5120
splash proof.
$
.00
•5 RFID cards included.
•N.O. and N.C. relay contacts.
199
Realistic Dummy Dome Cameras
Extremely realistic!
Both models can have standard
board cameras fitted to make
them real working cameras.
Corner Mounting
Dummy Camera
Metal
mounting for
stability.
Cat. LA-5312
29.95
$
Dome Dummy Camera with
Right Angled Bracket
Highly noticeable for
maximum deterrent.
Cat. LA-5311
19.95
$
5
W E HAVE A MA S S IVE
RANGE OF INVERTERS
Pure Sine Wave Inverters
SOLAR PANELS
Small Solar Panels
Ideal for charging SLA
batteries!
Supplied with reverse current
diode, 2m lead with alligator
clips.
Amorphous Type Solar Panels
Very affordable!
These are
Amorphous
Silicon type solar
panels offering
excellent quality,
and value for money.
Be aware of cheap Amorphous solar panels which will
simply not give the claimed output power. All our panels
will give claimed power at 33.5°S latitude, ie, Sydney.
Amorphous power output gradually decreases over the
years, unlike polycrystalline which do not.
12V 1.26 Watt
Great reliability! Pure Sine Wave inverters
provide a mains waveform that is much closer
to that of conventional mains supplies. This is
much better and sometimes required when
powering sensitive equipment, some
switchmode power supplies etc.
Power Surge
VDC VAC Cat. No. Price
150W (300W) 12 to 230 MI-5080 $229
Suits battery chargers, fax machines etc.
300W (500W) 12 to 230 MI-5082 $289
Suits laptops, lamps and fluorescents up to
300W, 34cm TVs etc
500W (1000W) 12 to 230 MI-5085 $329
Suits power tools, laptops, microwaves,
blenders, small fridges etc
1000W (2000W) 12 to 230 MI-5088 $799
Suits Hi-Fi systems, computers, 68cm TVs,
lighting, fridges etc!
1500W (2500W) 24 to 230 MI-5089 $999
Suits large TVs, many power tools, lighting,
computers and more
Modified Square Wave Inverters
Cat. ZM-9016
$
.95
39
12V 4.5 Watt
Cat. ZM-9018
$
.95
99
Smart Solar Battery Charger
In sunlight, it supplies 15V at around
100-120mA of current.
This is enough to
keep a 12V
battery that is
infrequently used
topped up. Its ideal
for that second car,
ride on lawnmower, tractor, boat, etc, etc. It’s
housed in a plastic case, and has an output lead to
cigarette lighter plug, with a LED.
Cat. MB-3501
$
.95
•Size 370(L) x 160(W) x 20(D)mm
49
20 Amp 12V Super Solar Panel Regulator
Great value! With a host of safety features
such as overload & short circuit protection,
dielectric isolation between the battery and
secondary voltages and more. They all have
excellent surge ratings and boast over 90%
efficiency.
Power Surge VDC VAC Cat. No. Price
100W (300W) 12 to 230 MI-5100 $39.95
Suits battery chargers, small lights, and low
power devices WAS $44.95 SAVE $5
150W (450W) 12 to 230 MI-5102 $48.95
Suits battery chargers, fax machines etc!
300W (1000W) 12 to 230 MI-5104 $99.95
Suits laptops, lamps & fluorescents up to
300W, 34cm TVs etc WAS $119.95 SAVE $20
400W (1200W) 12 to 230 MI-5106 $159.95
Suits laptops, lamps & fluorescents up to
400W, 54cm TVs etc
400W (1200W) 24 to 230 MI-5107 $169.95
Suits laptops, lamps & fluores to 400W, 54cm
TVs & more from 24V
600W (1500W) 12 to 230 MI-5108 $249.95
Suits power tools, 68cm TVs, laptops,
microwaves, small fridges etc
800W (2000W) 12 to 230 MI-5110 $299.95
Suits power tools, 68cm TVs, blenders, small
fridges, microwaves etc
1000W(2500W) 12 to 230 MI-5112 $399.95
Suits Hi-Fi systems, computers, 68cm TVs,
lighting, fridges etc
1500W(3500W) 12 to 230 MI-5114 $599.95
Suits large TVs, many power tools, lighting,
computers etc
With a massive 20 amp current handling, this
switchmode solar panel generator does
not require a heatsink. It installs
easily, is lightweight and features
automatic operation, LED power
indication and boasts an efficiency
up to 99.2% <at> 20 amps. Not only
does the regulator switch the solar panel in and out
depending on the battery voltage, the regulator will
disconnect the solar panel after approx
Cat. MP-3126
$
.90
20 minutes at night fall to prevent any
losses into the panel overnight.
69
12V 5A Battery Charging Regulator
for Solar Panels
Designed for efficiently charging
12V batteries using solar cells
rated up to 5-amps.
It is easy to wire-up, prevents
battery discharge during low sunlight
and indicates charging and full
battery conditions using a yellow and green 3mm LED
respectively. Ideal for charging 12V SLA batteries from
solar panels up to 60W. 5-amp fuse and Cat. AA-0348
$
.95
fuse holder recommended - not supplied
29
12V Solar Battery Charging Regulator
This charging regulator is suitable for charging 12V
lead-acid batteries. It is able to use
power from a number of sources
including: a 12V solar panel, or a
filtered DC supply from 13.8V to
15V. Charging current and voltage are
automatic, so it is ideal for charging batteries
used in caravans, weekend houses and
Cat. AA-0258
alarm system batteries. It also features
$
.95
reverse-current protection.
22
High Current Power Connectors
Current
30 Amp
50 Amp
120 Amp
175 Amp
6
Poles
2
2
2
2
Cat
PT-4405
PT-4420
PT-4422
PT-4424
You'll find this connector in many 4WD applications, boating,
automotive and other industries. Supplied individually with a
Price pair of contacts and rated to 600V.
$5.95
$12.95
$28.95
$37.95
Cat. PT-4405
Cat. PT-4420/22/24
Voltage
6 Volt
12 Volt
12 Volt
12 Volt
12 Volt
Power
1 Watt
2 Watt
4 Watt
10 Watt
15 Watt
Cat No.
ZM-9020
ZM-9024
ZM-9026
ZM-9030
ZM-9045
Price
$29.95
$39.95
$69.95
$139.00
$199.00
BP Solar 12V Polycrystalline Solar Panels
Top quality panels at a great price!
Each panel has an array of 36
Polycrystalline
cells, and can
charge 12V
batteries in virtually
any climate.
They are built
to last, and
designed to
withstand a
25mm hail
stone
travelling at terminal velocity. They are mounted in an
anodised aluminium frame that is weather proof and
corrosion resistant. See website for full details.
Power
10W
20W
80W
Warranty
10 Year
10 Year
20 Year
Cat
ZM-9060
ZM-9062
ZM-9069
Price
$235
$359
$799
Want to use Solar but Don’t Know How?
We have books to help you!
Solar Electricity
Find out everything you Cat. BE-1532
$
.95
need to know about
solar systems.
Build Your Own Direct
Charging Plant
Explains charging systems for
Cat. BE-1530
remote and mobile power
$
.95
installations.
34
24
4 Pack Ni-MH Rechargeable Batteries
Buy in packs and save!
These rechargeable batteries are supplied in
four-packs for convenience, and are
cheaper than buying them individually!
AAA 900mAh
AA 2,000mAh
AA 2,400mAh
Cat. SB-1739
$ .95
Pkt 4
Cat. SB-1737
$
.95
Pkt 4
Cat. SB-1735
$
.95
Pkt 4
11
15
19
Bulk Pack Alkaline Batteries
These bulk packs represent
excellent value for money.
We have them made to the same
specifications of those well known
expensive brands advertised on TV, but at a realistic price.
With a shelf life past the year 2010 you cannot go wrong!
AAA Alkalines Cat. SB-2331 Bulk Pk of 24 $12.95
AA Alkalines Cat. SB-2330 Bulk Pk of 24 $12.95
AA Alkalines Cat. SB-2332 Bulk Pk of 40 $19.95
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
New “Nite Ize”
Maglite™/Torch Accessories
Nite Ize accessories suit AA Maglites™
and small torches (not included).
Bite Light Adaptor
Simple but effective!
This attachment fits over the end of
your torch with a patented mouth
piece to allow you to safely bite down
on it to hold the torch in place. It also
includes a neck lanyard.
Cat. ST-3405
$ .95
4 Channel USB Datalogger
No more serial!
Record DC and slowmoving signals over very
long periods. It connects
to a PC via the USB port to
display real time information,
as well as record it. No
additional power is required. There are four
DC-coupled input channels, monitored at up
to 100 samples/second (globally). It
Cat. QD-5000
has a host of great features, just
$
.95
check out our website.
139
BUY THIS:
7
Goot Antistatic Temperature
Controlled Soldering Station
Belt Pouch
Not your average belt pouch!
Not only can you store your torch
on your belt, but with real world use
in mind it has a small pouch to carry
two spare AA or AAA batteries. Made
from strong Nylon.
Cat. ST-3408
$ .95
Cat. TS-1440
$
.00
229
6
7" Fibre Optic Adaptor
Thin and flexible!
Light only travels in straight lines, but you can make
it bend with this Fibre Optic adaptor. A small
attachment fits right over the head of your torch to
give you a flexible light source for inspecting in tight
places. 3mm diameter cable.
High
temperature
stability and
antistatic
properties make it
ideal for all sorts of
soldering work.
THAT’S
$35.20 VALUE
ABSOLUTELY
FREE!
Metal Desolder Tool
$15.75
Soldering Iron Tip Conditioner
Cat. ST-3410
$
.95
TS-1512
14
LED Upgrade Kit for Maglites
Better efficiency! Upgrade the bulb in your
AA Maglite™ to this unit that has 3
LEDs. Because LEDs are so
efficient, you get four times longer
battery life, and LEDs don’t blow!
This is the single
Cat. ST-3400
best upgrade to a
$
.75
torch you can make!
14
5mm Red 12V LED 300MCD
$12.95
Lead Free Solder
Works just as well as
ordinary solder but
contains no harmful lead.
Supplied on a 45gm roll with
handy cover and available in
two sizes.
NS-3082 0.9mm dia. Cat. NS-3084
$
.95
NS-3084 1.0mm dia.
15
1
10mW Green Laser Module
Extremely bright!
This laser module
consists of a 10mW
laser diode, lens, and driver PCB. Simply connect a
3VDC supply, & you have a great high
Cat. ST-3117
power laser. •Datasheet included.
$
.95
•Measures 65(L) x 11(dia)mm.
149
Laser Level with Tape Measure
You’ll love this laser
level with tape
measure.
Use this
tool to
hang pictures, paintings
or mirrors in your home, install shelving, lay tiles
etc. The range of the laser line projects up to 6m
indoor and covers an arc of 45 and 90 degrees. The
unit incorporates a horizontally spread laser to create
illuminated guide lines along walls, horizontal and
vertical levels. It also includes a handy Cat. ST-3113
2.5m tape measure as well as a ruler
$
.95
on the side.
39
Very affordable!
It features a high
quality ceramic
heating element for
accurate
temperature control,
adjustable between
200° & 480°C.
The soldering pencil is
lightweight so it
is comfortable
for long periods. It is a great station,
so check our website for details.
Was $99
True RMS Auto Ranging
RS-232 DMM
Features a groovy blue backlit
screen, and a host of features.
Includes optical RS-232 computer
interface and PC software to store
measurements on your home,
workshop, or notebook computer
for later analysis. Please see our
website or catalogue Cat. QM-1537
$
.95
for full specifications.
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
Cat. NS-3082
$
.95
15
Duratech Temperature Controlled
Soldering Station
SAVE
The perfect LED for the car!
At last a 5mm LED that can Cat. ZD-1784
$ .60
be used in a car that does
not need a dropping resistor.
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
99
Super Bright 1 Watt LED Star Modules
These LEDs are just as bright as the leading
brand but cost a whole lot less.
They are increasingly finding their way into general
and architectural lighting applications and with a
service life of 100,000 hours. They provide up to 25
lumens per watt and are available in
anumber of colours.
3 WATT
1 WATT
$
.95
$
.95
12
$6.50
Soldering Iron Tip Cleaner
TS-1510
We now stock the US-Designed
Grabit damaged screw removal
tool, but BOY it’s expensive!!
What it does. If you have
a typically, (but not necessarily)
countersunk screw that is
slotted, Phillips, Posidrive,
Torx, Tri-Wing, tamper
resistant, etc that is totally
stripped out, this product will get it out - even if the
head is totally hollow! All of us “Tims” have
experienced this! The extraction bit consists of a
burnishing bit that basically preps a tapered hole in
the screw head. You turn the bit around with the
extractor bit out, reverse the cordless drill direction
and the extractor bit bites into the prepped hole
with tremendous force. Works equally well on
brass, steel, stainless screws etc. The TD-2059
consists of two 1/4” hex drive bits that cover
screws from #6 to #14 gauge. In days when a 12V
cordless drill can retail for $25 this
Cat. TD-2059
product may seem expensive.
$
.95
What it can do for you is priceless.
49
GET THESE FREE:
TH-1862
Attn: All You “Tim The Toolmen”
(The Wealthy Ones Anyway)
$20
23
Super Bright 1 Watt
LED Star Module - Red
Cat. ZD-0500
Super Bright 1 Watt
LED Star Module Amber
Cat. ZD-0502
Super Bright 1 Watt
LED Star Module Green
Cat. ZD-0504
Super Bright 1 Watt
LED Star Module - Blue
Cat. ZD-0506
Super Bright 1 Watt
LED Star Module White
Cat. ZD-0508
Super Bright 1 Watt
LED Star Module Warm White
Cat. ZD-0510
Super Bright 3 Watt
LED Star Module - Red
Cat. ZD-0520
Super Bright 3 Watt
LED Star Module Amber
Cat. ZD-0522
Super Bright 3 Watt
LED Star Module Green
Cat. ZD-0524
Super Bright 3 Watt
LED Star Module - Blue
Cat. ZD-0526
Super Bright 3 Watt
LED Star Module White
Cat. ZD-0528
Super Bright 3 Watt
LED Star Module Warm White
Cat. ZD-0530
Collimator
Cat. TS-1560
$
.00
79
A collimator is an optical device which is designed
to produce a light beam in which the the rays are
parallel, or at least very near parallel.
While we normally consider LEDs to be very focused
in terms of light spread, in many applications there is
still a vast quantity of "wasted" light spread.This series
of collimators are designed to suit our Star LED
modules (lambertian LED models only) and are
manufactured from quality optical components.
3 different viewing angles are available:
Collimator - 10°
Cat. HP-1290
$ .95
Collimator - 15°
Cat. HP-1292
$ .95
Collimator - 25°
Cat. HP-1294
$ .95
10° Viewing Angle
15° Viewing Angle
25° Viewing Angle
5
5
5
7
Dr Video Kit Mk11
An even better video
stabiliser!
Ref: Silicon Chip
June '04
Movie companies
deliberately tamper with
the video signal to restrict
copying. Get the picture
you paid for and strip out these annoying
signals from composite or S-video.
Cat. KC-5390
Kit includes PCB, case, panels &
$
.95
all electronic components.
99
USB Power Injector
A power boost for your USB port!
Refer: Silicon Chip
October 2004.
If you have a lot of
peripheral devices
running from your
computer, they may
be trying to draw
more current than your
USB port can provide.
This project will allow full
current draw no matter how many peripheral
devices you are running. It uses an external power
supply to tap into the existing line,
Cat. KC-5399
effectively boosting
$
.95
the available current.
29
YOUR LOCAL JAYCAR STORE
Freecall Orders: Ph 1800 022 888
NEW SOUTH WALES
Albury
Ph (02) 6021 6788
Alexandria
Ph (02) 9699 4699
Bankstown
Ph (02) 9709 2822
Blacktown
Ph (02) 9678 9669
Bondi Junction Ph (02) 9369 3899
Brookvale
Ph (02) 9905 4130
Campbelltown Ph (02) 4620 7155
Erina
Ph (02) 4365 3433
Hornsby
Ph (02) 9476 6221
Newcastle
Ph (02) 4965 3799
Parramatta
Ph (02) 9683 3377
Penrith
Ph (02) 4721 8337
Silverwater
Ph (02) 9741 8557
St. Leonards Ph (02) 9439 4799
Sydney City
Ph (02) 9267 1614
Taren Point
Ph (02) 9531 7033
Wollongong
Ph (02) 4226 7089
VICTORIA
Coburg
Ph (03) 9384 1811
Frankston
Ph (03) 9781 4100
Geelong
Ph (03) 5221 5800
Melbourne
Ph (03) 9663 2030
Ringwood
Ph (03) 9870 9053
Springvale
Ph (03) 9547 1022
Sunshine
Ph (03) 9310 8066
QUEENSLAND
Aspley
Ph (07) 3863 0099
Brisbane - Woolloongabba
Ph (07) 3393 0777
Gold Coast - Mermaid Beach
Ph (07) 5526 6722
Townsville
Ph (07) 4772 5022
Underwood
Ph (07) 3841 4888
AUSTRALIAN CAPITAL TERRITORY
Canberra
Ph (02) 6239 1801
TASMANIA
Hobart
Ph (03) 6272 9955
SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Adelaide
Ph (08) 8231 7355
Clovelly Park Ph (08) 8276 6901
WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Perth
Ph (08) 9328 8252
NORTHERN TERRITORY
Darwin
Ph (08) 8948 4043
NEW ZEALAND
Hamilton
Ph (07) 846 0177
Newmarket - Auckland
Ph (09) 377 6421
Glenfield - Auckland
Ph (09) 444 4628
Wellington
Ph (04) 801 9005
Christchurch Ph (03) 379 1662
Freecall Orders Ph 0800 452 9227
8
Pro-Series 3 Stereo Power Amp Kit
Wireless Basketball Scoreboard Kit
Suberb amplifier
for home Cinema!
One Final Time We have made 1
final batch of ProSeries 3 Stereo
Power Amp Kits.
Once these are
gone, that is the end
of this great amp.
We supply a superbly illustrated and thorough
construction manual that takes you through step by
step! The Pro 3 is supplied absolutely complete with
professionally prepared paneling, pre-lined PCB s,
high-quality high-current wiring plus all specified
componentry. Output power is 185W RMS x 2, 8 ohm
and 255W RMS x 2, 4 ohm with a
Cat. KA-1760
THD at 0.008% at 180W RMS.
$
See our catalogue for full specs.
EXCLUSIVE TO JAYCAR!
This kit enables you to make a full-sized electronic
scoreboard, in particular for Basketball but also
adaptable for netball and other games.
Ref: Silicon Chip
March/April/May
2005. It can be
built for a fraction
of the cost of
commercial
equivalents and
has a completely
wireless scoring
console that can
control one or multiple scoreboards. You can mount the scoreboards high up in the court, plug it
in to a 240VAC power point and then
control them from a table courtside with no messy
wiring. It features Home/Away team scores 0 to 199,
game period, countdown time, Home/Away time and
the addition of a new 'foul' feature. It measures 900 x
600mm and comes with all pre-cut scoreboard
woodwork, screen printed face, display filters,
mounting plates, pre-programmed microcontroller,
printed circuit boards, 2.4GHz transmitters & receivers,
pre-punched control console with special piezo end-ofgame quarter sounder, and all electronic Cat. KC-5408
$
components to make one scoreboard.
Speaker Bass Extender Kit
599
Ref: Silicon Chip April 2005.
Most audiophiles know that
loudspeaker enclosures have
a natural frequency rolloff
which is inherent in their design.
The Bass Extender kit boosts the level of the
bass to counteract the natural rolloff of the enclosure,
producing rich, natural bass. It gives an extra octave of
response, and is sure to please even
Cat. KC-5411
$
.95
the most avid audiophiles.
•Kit supplied with PCB, and all
electronic components.
19
Driveway Automatic Entry Sensor Kit
Exclusive to Jaycar Ref: Silicon Chip Nov 04
Automactically open your electronic
gates or automatic garage
door as you approach in
your vehicle, without
the use of remote controls!
It uses a large coil sensor to detect moving
metal (eg a car chassis), which reduces false
alarms from animals and people etc. Kit
supplied with PCB, silk screened machined
case, pre-wound & insulated Cat. KC-5402
5000 turn coil, and all
$
electronic components.
799
Extra Scoreboards Available
Contains everything included in the original kit without
parts for the control console. Cat. KC-5409 $649
5m IR Light Barrier Kit
Excellent functionality!
This kit indicates via LED when the
beam is broken. Includes PCB, IR
RX/TX diodes,
Cat. KG-9094
magnifying lens & all
$ .95
electronic components.
11
Component Video to RGB
Converter Kit
Ref: Silicon Chip May 2004.
Top quality home cinema is increasingly
common in many houses.
The best quality
picture
currently
Luxeon Star LED Driver Kit
available is
Refer: Silicon Chip May 2004.
Component
Luxeon high power LEDs
Video. It is better
are some of the
than RGB, and outstanding against
brightest
S-Video or composite. So if Component
LEDs
Video is the best on offer, how do you take
available
advantage of it when your projector or
in the world.
plasma TV only have an RGB input? This unit
will convert the Component Video signal
from your DVD player etc to an RGB signal
They offer up to 120 lumens per unit, and will
for input into your display device. It provides
last up to 100,000 hours! This kit allows you to
you with fantastic reproduction with minimal
power the fantastic 1W, 3W, and 5W Luxeon
degradation. Kit supplied with PCB, case,
Star LEDs from 12VDC. This means that you
silk-screened and punched panels, colour
can take advantage of what these fantastic
coded RCA sockets, 9VAC Cat. KC-5388
LEDs have to offer, and use
Cat. KC-5389
mains plugpack, and all
$
.95
$
.95
them in your car, boat, or
electronic components.
caravan.
179
29
Universal Voltage Switch Kit
Automatic device switching!
Use it to trigger
cooling systems, fans,
and more from
sensors. This can
include temperature
sensors, throttle position
Cat. KC-5377
sensors and more.
$
.95
Kit includes PCB and all
electronic components.
29
PRICES VALID TO
END OCTOBER 2005
99
Infrared Remote Control Tester
The SHORT CIRCUITS
LEARNING SYSTEM
The Short Circuits learning system
is a great way to learn
electronics. It is fun, informative,
and you build great
projects along the way. Here is just
one from Short Circuits 3…
Guitar Practice
Amplifier Kit
Don’t annoy the
neighbours!
It has a
guitar type
input socket,
small
speaker, and volume control. It
sounds great! Kit supplied with
PCB, speaker, socket, and all
electronic components.
Cat. KJ-8092
Instructions are in the
$
.50
Short Circuits 3 book.
14
Check your IR remote on an oscilloscope!
Refer: Silicon Chip January 05.
When a remote control stops working, the
first thing we usually do is change the
batteries right? That usually solves the
problem, but what if it still won't work? The
Cat. KC-5407
days of flashing operation LEDs on most TV and HiFi remotes are
$
.95
gone, so the only real way to diagnose a fault is with the remote
control tester. It lights an LED and sounds a buzzer when an IR
code is detected, and also has an auxiliary output to connect it to an oscilloscope
for further analysis.
29
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions from
readers are welcome and will be paid for at standard rates.
Discrete dual-tracking
power supply
This DC power supply boasts
dual 0-15V outputs with up to 1.5A
current handling capability and
includes over-current protection.
A 12VAC transformer provides
input power, which is half-wave
rectified by diodes D1 and D2 to
feed the positive and negative rails.
Two 4700mF capacitors provide bulk
filtering.
Transistor Q1 acts as a constant
current source for ZD1 to help ensure a stable 7.5V reference with
varying rail voltage. The LED and the
180W resistor in the emitter circuit
determine the current. Select a LED
with a forward voltage of about 2.4V
and alter the resistor value if necessary to get close to 10mA through
the zener diode.
The 7.5V reference feeds the top
of an adjustable voltage divider
network, comprised of a trimpot
siliconchip.com.au
(VR1) and a 2kW panel-mounted pot
(VR2). The trimpot can be adjusted
so that the maximum output voltage
is 15V when VR2 is at its maximum
position.
The wiper of VR2 feeds the noninverting input (pin 3) of op amp IC1.
The gain of the op amp is set to 2.2 by
virtue of the 12kW and 10kW resistors
connected to the inverting input. Its
output (pin 6) drives the base of a
series pass transistor (Q2), which is
effectively inside the feedback loop.
This means that with 6.8V applied to
the non-inverting input, the voltage
at the output of the supply should
be close to 15V.
Over-current protection is provided by transistor Q3, in conjunction
with an 0.47W series resistor. When
the load current reaches 1.5A, the
voltage drop across the resistor is
about 0.7V, causing Q3 to conduct.
This diverts current away from the
base of Q2 and so reduces the output
voltage.
Operation of the negative side of
the supply is much the same. The
two transistors (Q4 & Q5) are complementary types and the inverting
(rather than non-inverting) input of
the op amp (IC2) is driven from the
reference voltage.
As the two op amps are connected
together via a common 10kW resistor in their feedback networks, the
positive and negative rails track one
another very accurately. Out of a series of units built using 1% tolerance
resistors in the feedback networks,
the worse case tracking accuracy
recorded was ±40mV.
If desired, an LCD panel meter can
be used to display the positive output voltage. A separate +5V regulator
(REG1) provides power for the meter,
while a resistor string incorporating
a 200W trimpot (VR3) divides down
the output to meet the ±200mV FSD
meter specifications.
Rod Smith,
Bendigo, Vic. ($45)
October 2005 61
Circuit Notebook – Continued
PICAXE-controlled
bird brooder
This ingenious design controls the
temperature in an icebox (an “Esky”
or similar) so that it can be used as
a bird brooder.
The circuit is based around a
62 Silicon Chip
PICAXE-18X microcontroller, which
maintains a set temperature in the
icebox by controlling a Peltier module. A temperature sensor in the
icebox provides feedback, while two
7-segment displays give the current
or set temperature, which is alterable
via two pushbutton switches.
David C
r
is this m owley
on
winner th’s
Peak At of a
las
Instrum Test
ent
Looking first at the temperature
readout part of the circuit, the two
7-segment LED displays are driven
by 4511 display drivers (IC2 &
IC3), in turn driven by four outputs
(OUT0–OUT4) of the PICAXE micro.
The data inputs to these ICs are tied
together and alternately enabled by
siliconchip.com.au
Program Listing
' Bird Brooder
bTensNibble = bDecimal / 10
bUnitNibble = bDecimal // 10
' b0 is the temp value from DS18B20
' b4 is the current temperature
' b5 is the desired temperature
' b6 is the displayed temperature
' b7 is used to allow peltier to continue through the display routine
' b11 is used by the display routine
' b12 is used by the display routine
initial:
b5 = 30
'sets the initial desired temp
main:
gosub temp
gosub action
gosub display
gosub switchcheck
goto main
temp:
pause 1000
readtemp 2,b0
pause 1000
if b0 >127 then undertemp
if b0 >45 then overtemp
b4=b0
'make the calculated temp the current temp
b6=b4
'make the current temp the displayed temp
return
undertemp:
b4 = 00
b6 = b4
return
'if temp is below zero than make zero
'use this value for display purposes
overtemp:
b4 = 45
b6 = b4
return
'if temp is above 45 degree’s than make 45
'use this value for display purposes
'pin normally pulled high
'pin normally pulled high
display:
symbol bDecimal = b6
symbol bTensNibble = b11
symbol bUnitNibble = b12
the OUT4 and OUT5 port bits.
The desired temperature is set
with pushbutton switches S1 & S2,
which are connected to port inputs
siliconchip.com.au
'dislay 2 to be latched
'display 1 to be latched
switchup:
if b5 = 45 then switchcheck 'won’t allow countup beyond 45
let b6=b5
gosub display
pause 300
let b5 = b5+1
'increment one per subroutine
let b6=b5
'let the desired temp be the displayed temp
gosub display
'display incremented value
pause 300
goto switchcheck
switchdown:
if b5 = 0 then switchcheck 'won’t allow countdown below 0
let b6=b5
gosub display
pause 300
let b5 = b5-1
'decrement one per subroutine
let b6=b5
'let the desired temp be the displayed temp
gosub display
'display decremented value
pause 300
goto switchcheck
peltiercold:
low 7
pause 100
high 6
let b7=64
return
peltierhot:
low 6
pause 100
high 7
let b7=128
return
action:
if b4<b5 then peltierhot
if b4>b5 then peltiercold
if b4=b5 then peltiernil
return
switchcheck:
if pin0 = 0 then switchdown
if pin7 = 0 then switchup
return
let pins = b11+48+b7
low 4
high 4
let pins = b12+48+b7
low 5
high 5
return
peltiernil:
low 6
pause 100
low 7
pause 100
let b7=0
return
IN0 & IN7. The switch inputs are normally pulled high via 1kW resistors,
so if either S1 or S2 is pressed, the
respective line is pulled low.
'ensure the heat is off before
'turn on cool
'used to keep pin high during display routine
'ensure the cool is off before
'turn on heat
'used to keep pin high during display routin
'ensure cool is off
'ensure heat is off
'used to keep pin low during display routine
The Peltier module is driven
with four power MOSFETs (Q5-Q8)
arranged in a classic H-bridge concontinued on page 65
October 2005 63
Circuit Notebook – Continued
Electronic
Nim game
Nim is a two-player game of
strategy in which players take turns
removing objects from a heap (traditionally pebbles or matches). The
players must take between one and
an agreed-upon maximum number
of objects per turn. The player left
to pick up the last item is the loser.
Many variations on this basic set
of rules can be applied. For example, the last to pick up could be the
winner, or the heap could be built
up rather than dismantled, with
the last to place an object being the
winner – or loser!
Here’s an electronic version of
the game that supports all four of
these variations, using a 2-digit LED
64 Silicon Chip
display instead of physical objects.
The displays are driven by 4511 decoders/drivers, which receive their
data from two 4029 counters.
Initially, up or down counting
mode is selected with toggle switch
S4. The display is then cleared by
pressing switch S3, which loads
both counters (IC2 & IC4) with
zero.
To get a random number of
“objects” (ie, a random count) at
the start of the game, switch S2 is
pressed. This places the 555 timer
(IC1) into astable (free-running)
mode and causes it to produce a
rapid train of pulses at the clock
(CP) inputs of the two counters.
A value of 39 was chosen as the
maximum count, which is enforced
by the connection of two most
significant bits of the tens counter
(IC2) back to the parallel load (PL)
inputs via diodes D3 & D4.
The display count can be incremented or decremented (depending
on the position of S4) by pressing switch S1, which generates a
negative-going pulse at the trigger
input of the 555. With the timer
now in monostable mode, a single
110ms (approx.) positive pulse is
generated for each switch press,
clocking the counters and sounding
the piezo buzzer.
People with a mathematical bent
can work out a winning strategy and
then show off by playing the game
by ear – once they know the starting
number on the display!
A. J. Lowe,
Bardon, Qld. ($45)
siliconchip.com.au
PICAXE-controlled bird
brooder . . . from page 63
Trickle charger
uses optocoupler
This novel NiCd/NiMH battery
charger provides a constant charging
current and over-voltage protection
using little more than a Darlington
transistor and an optocoupler.
When the voltage drop across
the 27W resistor (R1) equals the
base-emitter forward voltage of
optocoupler plus the forward voltage of D2 (about 1.2V in total), the
optocoupler transistor conducts.
This reduces the base current of the
series pass transistor (Q1), thereby
maintaining the collector current
at about 44mA (1.2V/27W = 44mA).
Should the voltage on the anode
of D1 increase above the forward
voltage of the LED in the optocoupler plus the reverse voltage
of the zener diode (about 12.5V
in total), the LED will illuminate,
causing the optocoupler transistor
to saturate. This pulls the base of Q1
towards ground, switching it off.
Note that Q1 must be a high-gain
Darlington transistor due to the low
current handling capabilities of
the optocoupler. D1 prevents the
battery from discharging through
OPTO1 & ZD1. Both current and
voltage levels can be altered by
changing the values of R1 and the
zener diode.
Chris Baker,
via email. ($40)
Contribute And Choose Your Prize
As you can see, we pay good money
for each of the “Circuit Notebook” items
published in SILICON CHIP. But now there
are four more reasons to send in your
circuit idea. Each month, the best contribution published will entitle the author to
choose the prize: an LCR40 LCR meter,
a DCA55 Semiconductor Component
Analyser, an ESR60 Equivalent Series
Resistance Analyser or an SCR100
siliconchip.com.au
Thyristor & Triac Analyser, with the
compliments of Peak Electronic Design
Ltd www.peakelec.co.uk
So now you have even more reasons
to send that brilliant circuit in. Send it
to SILICON CHIP and you could be a
winner.
You can either email your idea to
silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au or post it to
PO Box 139, Collaroy, NSW 2097.
figuration. Four small-signal transistors
(Q1-Q4) level-shift the 5V logic outputs
from the PICAXE in order to switch 12V
at the gates of the MOSFETs.
When both outputs (OUT6 & OUT7)
from the micro are low, the Peltier module is off. If OUT6 is programmed high,
Q1 conducts, pulling the gate of the
MOSFET (Q5) towards ground. Being a
P-channel type, the MOSFET switches
on, connecting the positive (+12V) rail
to one side of the Peltier module.
On the other side of the bridge, the
low voltage on the collector of Q1 also
causes Q2 to conduct, which in turn
drives the gate of Q6 high. Being an
N-channel MOSFET, it switches on,
completing a current path to ground for
the Peltier module.
Thus, if OUT7 were low rather than
OUT6, the polarity of the voltage applied
to the Peltier device would be reversed,
causing cooling, rather than heating (or
vice-versa, depending on how the Peltier
device is connected).
Of course, OUT6 & OUT7 must
never be programmed to be high at the
same time. Doing so will short-circuit
the supply rail and may destroy the
MOSFETs!
Temperature in the Esky is sensed
with a DS18B20 digital temperature
sensor. The PICAXE program continually monitors the temperature and
compares it with the user-programmed
value to determine if heating or cooling
is required.
The prototype was constructed in
three parts. A display board carries the
two pushbutton switches, 7-segment
LED displays and drivers; a power
control board carries the H-bridge MOSFETs and related switching logic; and
a main board carries the PICAXE-18X
and power supply circuitry. Connection
between the display and main boards
is accomplished with a short length of
10-way ribbon cable.
The circuit requires a hefty 12V DC
power source. This could be supplied
from a car battery or heavy-duty mains
adaptor, with the rating dependant on
the requirements of the Peltier module.
Alternatively, a supply could be built
using a 9VAC mains transformer and
diode bridge of appropriate ratings.
David Crowley,
Toowoomba, Qld.
October 2005 65
Check your blood alcohol level before you drive.
RBT BAC Checker
The courts are full of people who thought they were fit to drive after
having “a couple of drinks”. This simple little project will give you a
good indication of alcohol on your breath – and therefore your blood
alcohol concentration (BAC). It’s up to you then to make the right
decision and get a cab home instead!
I
Police. Therefore it must not be used
Furthermore, this particular PC board
f you drive when under the into make the decision to drive or not
has been designed for more than one
fluence of even a small amount
to drive based on an “under .05” or
project – it has already served us in
of alcohol it is certain that your
“over .05” reading. Our advice would
the recent “Bilge Sniffer” (September
driving will be impaired.
be – if you drink, don’t drive!
2005).
Reaction times will be extended
and while you may feel confident to
Our Alcohol Level Meter
The sensor
drive, anything that occurs requiring
Housed in a small ABS case, the
The alcohol sensor itself, which
a judgement decision may lead to
circuit consists of a proprietary alprotrudes through the case lid so that
disastrous consequences.
cohol sensor which drives a 10-LED
it can be blown into, is encapsulated
For Learner and Provisional drivers
bargraph display. The higher the proin a plastic button-shaped housing
in NSW at least, there is virtually zero
portion of alcohol sensed, the higher
with a stainless steel mesh covering
tolerance for having any blood alcohol
the display reads.
over the open end.
levels. With this in mind, being able
Inside is a heater that is
to detect small amounts of
used to heat up an aluminium
alcohol on your breath would
oxide ceramic tube, itself
be quite useful.
coated with a tin dioxide senThe SILICON CHIP Alcohol
not give a
es
do
ter
Me
sitive layer. Resistance across
Level Meter can be used
l
ve
Le
l
ho
This Alco
the electrodes attached to the
be
to detect and display the
ot
nn
ca
d
an
reading
sensitive layer decreases with
presence of alcohol on your
calibrated blood alcohol
.
ing
rn
wa
t
mi
-li
the
increasing alcohol concentrabreath. And it operates with
erov
relied on to give an
tion – that is, it is an inverse
sufficient sensitivity to detect
relationship.
blood alcohol levels below the
Don’t be
The change in resistance from the
critical 0.05% concentration.
concerned about the relatively small
sensor
is converted to a voltage by a
Before we go any further, though,
number of components on the PC
resistive voltage divider across the
let’s get one thing straight: this unit
board, nor the large number of unsupply voltage. This is then displayed
does not and can not replace the
used holes. This simple level meter
using the LED bargraph, controlled by
highly calibrated devices used by the
doesn’t need any more components.
Warning
66 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
by John Clarke
The Alcohol Level Meter
mounted inside its case,
fitted with a suitable
length of figure-8 cable
and a cigarette lighter
plug. Keep it in the
glovebox – just in case!
an LM3914 bargraph display driver.
Fig.1 shows the internal arrangement of the LM3914. It comprises
10-comparators that monitor the voltage applied to pin 5.
The comparator’s positive inputs
are connected to 10 series-connected
resistors between the RLO and RHI
inputs. The idea is to connect the
RHI input to a voltage source and RLO
either to ground or a raised voltage if
you wish to measure a range of voltage
that starts above ground.
The resistor string sets each comparator input at a different voltage. So
for example, if RHI is at 1V, then the
lower comparator will have 100mV at
its positive input. The second comparator will have 200mV and so on until
the top-most comparator will have the
full 1V at its positive input.
As the input voltage at pin 5 goes
above the 100mV level, then LED1 will
light. Above 200mV, LED2 will light
and above 300mV, LED3 will light.
This sequence will continue, with LED
10 lighting when pin 5 is at 1V.
RHI can be set to a voltage using
siliconchip.com.au
Here’s what is inside the box: not much to it, is there? The alcohol sensor itself
is on the bottom left, mounted high on PC stakes and wires so that it can peek
through the case lid. The LED display is also mounted at the same height.
October 2005 67
LM3914
LED V+
10x
COMPARATORS
6
RHI
11
12
13
14
–
15
16
3
λ
LED3
1k
17
λ
LED2
1k
V+
λ
LED4
1k
REF ADJ
R2*
λ
LED5
1k
8
λ
LED6
1k
R1*
λ
LED7
1k
REF
OUT
λ
LED8
1k
7
λ
LED9
1k
REFERENCE
+ VOLTAGE
SOURCE
1.25V
LED10
10
18
λ
LED1
1k
1
λ
FROM
1k
4
V+ PIN 11
RLO
MODE
SELECT
AMPLIFIER
SIGNAL
IN
5
9
BAR/DOT
SELECT
20k
BUFFER
V–
2
* R1+ R2 DETERMINE LED BRIGHTNESS
Fig.1: inside (and outside) the LM39 14 LED bargraph driver. Its sole purpose
is to drive a string of LEDs according to the level of the input signal.
the 1.25V internal voltage reference
provided between pins 7 and 8. The
resistor placed between pin 7 and
pin 8 sets the brightness of the LEDs.
LED current through each LED will be
approximately 10 times the current
that flows through R1. This current
also determines the voltage at pin
7 because it determines the voltage
produced across R2.
We set R1 at 2.7kW so that a
1.25/2.7kW or 463mA current flows
through R1. LED current is therefore
around 4.6mA. The 463mA also flows
through R2 (3.9kW in our circuit).
68 Silicon Chip
Voltage at pin 8 is therefore 463mA
x 3.9kW or 1.8V. Adding this 1.8V to
the 1.25V reference, we obtain 3.06V
at pin 6.
Therefore, our comparator resistive
string is set to operate over a nominal
3.06V and with about 300mV divisions between comparators.
Pin 9 of the LM3914 sets the LED
mode to either dot or bar mode. It
can be left open so that the LEDs
light up individually, with the lower
LED switching off as the higher LED
switches on (dot mode). If pin 9 is
connected to pin 3, then the display
operates in bar mode where the lower
LEDs remain lit.
The circuit
The circuit for the Alcohol Level
Meter is shown in Fig.2. There is not
too much to the circuit, with IC1 used
to drive the LEDs as described above
and the voltage from the alcohol sensor applied to pin 5.
One of the electrodes from the sensor connects to the 5V supply and the
other to the VR1 calibration resistor
and series 100kW resistor. In operation, the sensor electrodes present a
certain resistance at various alcohol
concentrations and this resistance
sets a voltage due to the divider action
of VR1 and the 100kW resistor. Typically, the voltage is around 2V at the
now-standard 0.05% blood alcohol
concentration.
The sensor is heated via the 5V supply passing current through the heater
coil. The coil has a 33W resistance and
so current draw is around 150mA.
Combine this with the LED current
of up to around 50mA (in bar mode)
and there is a current requirement of
up to 200mA. So battery operation is
not a good idea.
Power for the circuit is provided
from a 12V supply. This can be from
a car’s cigarette lighter socket, a 12V
bench supply or a 12VDC 500mA
plugpack. The supply is reverse polarity protected using diode D1 and
protected from transient voltages using a series 10W resistor and the 16V
zener diode, ZD1.
The 100mF capacitor filters the
incoming voltage. REG1 regulates
the voltage down to 5V for the sensor
and IC1 supply. Two 10uF decoupling
capacitors are included for the output
of REG1 and the LM3914.
Construction
The Alcohol Level Meter is constructed onto a PC board coded
05109051 and measuring 123 x 60mm.
This is housed into a plastic UB3 box
measuring 130 x 67 x 44mm. The board
is held in place on indents in the side
wall guides – no screws are used. For
this reason, the corners of the PC board
have to be shaped (“concaved”) so that
the PC board can fit into the box.
Power is connected via a figure-8
lead that either attaches to a cigarette
lighter plug or a DC line socket.
Begin construction by checking the
PC board for any defects.
siliconchip.com.au
Solder in the resistors first, making
sure the correct value is placed in the
shown position. You can use the accompanying resistor colour code table
to check values or use a multimeter.
When installing the regulator and IC,
make sure they are oriented correctly.
A heatsink attaches to the regulator
using an M3 x 10mm screw and nut.
The heatsink flanges protrude toward
the edge of the PC board.
When mounting the electrolytic
capacitors and diodes, these too must
be oriented with the correct polarity –
refer to the overlay diagram. Terminals
for the power connection and trimpot
(VR1) can also be installed now.
The sensor itself can be mounted
either way around, as the pin connections are symmetrical. It is mounted
so that the top of the sensor is 30mm
above the PC board, on PC stakes and
lengths of tinned copper wire (resistor
lead offcuts are ideal).
The LED bargraph has long leads
and can mount directly on the PC
board with the top of the display also
at 30mm above the PC board.
Drill a hole in the box lid for the
sensor and make the rectangular slot
for the LED display using a series of
holes along the required area, filed to
shape. Also drill out a hole in the side
of the box suitable for the wiring entry
to the power screw connector.
We used a length of figure-8 wire
and a cigarette lighter plug to supply
power. Alternatively, a DC line socket
could be mounted on the side of the
case and either a plugpack (for mains
operation) or a power lead fitted with
a matching DC plug could be used to
connect to a source of 12V DC.
REG1 7805
+5V
OUT
IN
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
ZD1
16V
1W
100 µF
16V
GND
6
K
ZD1
7
K
2.7k
K
8
A
IC1
LM3914
3.9k
K
K
A
4
H
A
H
K
5
K
LED2
A
λ
1
K
2
LED3
A
λ
18
VR1
500k
CALIBRATE
LED4
A
λ
17
1k
B
H
K
A
LED5
A
λ
16
B
LED6
A
λ
15
MG-3
LED7
A
λ
14
K
LED8
A
λ
13
LEDS
LED9
A
λ
12
+
LED10
A
λ
11
K
B
+12V
0V
K
IN4004
SENSOR1
MG-3
ALCOHOL
H SENSOR
A
0.5W
λ
10
–
K
–
3
OUT
A
D1 1N4004
+11.4V
7805
IN
LED1
A
9
LINK FOR
"BAR" DISPLAY;
OPEN FOR
“DOT” DISPLAY
100k
10 µF
16V
ALCOHOL LEVEL METER
SC
2005
Fig.2: it’s easy to build because there is so little in it. But it does a good job at
detecting the amount of alcohol on your breath.
Testing
Connect power to the Alcohol
Level Meter and adjust VR1 so that all
the LEDs light up. If you cannot see
45kg
55kg
65kg
75kg
80kg
90kg.
.05
.10
.15
.20
.25
.30
.36
.41
.46
.51
.56
.61
.66
.71
.76
.04
.08
.13
.17
.21
.26
.30
.33
.38
.42
.46
.50
.55
.59
.63
.04
.07
.11
.15
.18
.22
.26
.29
.33
.36
.40
.43
.47
.51
.55
.03
.06
.10
.13
.16
.19
.22
.26
.29
.32
.35
.37
.40
.43
.46
.03
.06
.08
.11
.14
.17
.20
.23
.26
.28
.31
.33
.36
.39
.42
.03
.05
.08
.10
.13
.15
.18
.20
.23
.25
.27
.30
.32
.35
.37
the LEDs light, check that the power
supply polarity is correct. You should
have 5V at the output of REG1 with
respect to the ground. This 5V should
BAC versus weight for MEN
Weight
siliconchip.com.au
+
GND
10 µF
BAC versus weight for WOMEN
No. of
drinks in
one hour
10Ω
100kg 110kg
.02
.05
.07
.09
.12
.14
.16
.19
.21
.23
.25
.28
.30
.32
.35
.02
.04
.06
.09
.11
.13
.15
.17
.19
.21
.23
.25
.27
.29
.32
No. of
drinks in
one hour
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
Weight
45kg
55kg
65kg
75kg
80kg
90kg
.04
.09
.13
.17
.22
.26
.30
.35
.37
.39
.48
.53
.57
.62
.66
.04
.07
.11
.15
.18
.22
.25
.29
.32
.35
.40
.43
.47
.50
.54
.03
.06
.09
.13
.16
.19
.22
.25
.26
.28
.34
.37
.40
.43
.47
.03
.05
.08
.11
.14
.16
.19
.22
.24
.25
.30
.32
.35
.37
.40
.02
.05
.07
.10
.12
.15
.17
.19
.20
.22
.26
.29
.31
.34
.36
.02
.04
.07
.09
.11
.13
.15
.17
.19
.20
.24
.26
.29
.31
.34
100kg 110kg
.02
.04
.06
.08
.10
.12
.14
.16
.17
.18
.22
.24
.26
.28
.30
.02
.04
.05
.07
.09
.11
.13
.14
.15
.16
.20
.21
.23
.25
.27
October 2005 69
K
LED10
LED1
K
10Ω
LINK FOR
BAR DISPLAY
REG1
10 µF
IC1 LM3914
ZD1
100 µF
H
1k
ON
C
2.7k
10 µF
CN
3.9k
A
CALIBRATE
VR1
SENSOR1
H
rab/tod
B
R OS NES GPL/L O H O CLA
A
A
CN
D1
C ON
also be at pin 3 of IC1. Check that pin
8 of IC1 is around 1.8V and pins 6 & 7
are at around 3.1V.
Before further use, the
meter should be left pow- +12V
ered up for about 24 hours.
0V
This allows the heater
inside the alcohol sensor to burn off
impurities that may have collected on
the sensing element during manufacture and while in storage. In fact, one
of the lower green LEDs will probably
remain lit for some time until the sensor has purged off sufficient impurities
to raise the sensor resistance.
The sensor can be tested after a
few minutes of purging by waving an
open bottle of methylated spirits over
the sensor. Since methylated spirits is
virtually pure ethanol (an alcohol), the
display should immediately light the
top red LED. Never drink methylated
spirits, as the added methyl alcohol
is poisonous.
500k
15090150
100k
Fig.3: construction should be a breeze with this overlay diagram and the photo
below. Note the dot/bar link pads (immediate bottom right of the IC). You should
short these pads if you want a bargraph; leave them open for a dot display.
Calibration
The Alcohol Level Meter is calibrated by adjusting VR1 when the
sensor is exposed to a concentration
of alcohol in air. Calibration is not
accurate and we suggest you read the
WHERE
can you buy
A
NO C
NC
You can get your copy of SILICON CHIP
every month from your newsagent: in
most it’s on sale on the last Wednesday of
the month prior to cover date. You can ask
your newsagent to reserve your copy for
you. If they do not have SILICON CHIP or it
has run out, ask them to contact Network
Distribution Company in your state.
K
ALCOHOL/LPG SENSOR
SILICON
CHIP
NO
C
NC
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and save money into the bargain, why not
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70 Silicon Chip
dot/bar
05109051
Fig.4: same-size PC board pattern for those who wish to make their own boards.
Resistor Colour Codes
1
1
1
1
1
No.
1
1
1
1
1
Value
100kW
3.9kW
2.7kW
1kW
10W
4-band Code (1%)
brown black yellow brown
orange white red brown
red violet red brown
brown black red brown
brown black black brown
5-band Code (1%)
brown black black orange brown
orange white black brown brown
red violet black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
brown black black gold brown
siliconchip.com.au
Why does it work?
How does measuring the amount
of alcohol on the breath determine
the amount of alcohol in the bloodstream? It’s all tied up with the way
the body obtains oxygen from the air
in the lungs.
Once drunk (no pun intended), alcohol is absorbed into the bloodstream
over the next 15-20 minutes (it actually
dissolves in the water of the blood) via
the stomach and small intestine – and
it is neither digested (ie, like a food)
nor chemically changed. The alcohol
is carried by the blood and pumped
around the body by the heart.
All of this blood must pass through
the lungs to be replenished with
oxygen.
Here, literally millions of tiny bloodladen vessels, called alveoli, are responsible for grabbing passing oxygen
and absorbing it into the bloodstream.
But if there is alcohol in the bloodstream, it is just as happy about going
the other way – that is, some passes
through the alveoli and evaporates
into the air in the lungs. It’s not a huge
amount (otherwise the lungs would fill
up with alcohol!) – the ratio of alcohol on
the breath to alcohol in the bloodstream
is a relatively constant 2100:1.
But even this tiny amount can be
measured and gives a reliable indication
of blood alcohol level.
There are many common myths about
the ability to “mask” or reduce the alcohol in the breath so that you will not fail
a breath analysis.
The popular TV show “Mythbusters”
recently busted all of the following wide
open – nothing decreased the amount
of breath alcohol detected and some
accompanying warning panel.
You can calibrate the meter by
drinking “standard drinks” as shown
in the accompanying tables. You will
need to drink sufficient standard
drinks in one hour in order to raise
the blood alcohol level to 0.05% or
close to it. For example if you are
an 80kg man then you will need to
drink two standard drinks in an hour
to raise your blood alcohol level to
0.05%.
A standard drink contains 10g of
alcohol such as in a 285ml glass of
full strength beer, or a 30ml measure
of spirits. You should wait about 15
minutes after the hour’s drinking to
ensure the alcohol has entered the
bloodstream. By this time, the alcohol
will also be present on your breath.
Blow into the alcohol sensor and
adjust VR1 so that the red LED just
lights. This calibrates approximately
to the 0.05% level. However, actual
levels really depend on many factors
including how much food is also
present in the stomach at the time of
drinking. It is also true that this level
of alcohol will have vastly different
effects between individuals.
Blood Alcohol Level (or BAL) (also
known as Blood Alcohol Concentration, BAC) is the amount of alcohol
present in the blood and is calculated
by determining how many milligrams
of alcohol are present in 100ml of
blood. The tables earlier in this article
show the expected BAL from a person
who metabolises or breaks down one
standard drink per hour.
SC
The assembled PC
board mounts in
the box by clicking
it into the indents
in the vertical
guides, moulded
in the sides of the
case. This puts the
PC board 30mm
below the case
lid height – coincidentally the
same height we
mount both the
alcohol sensor and
the LEDs.
siliconchip.com.au
actually increased it!
• Fresh breath mints (no effect)
• Mouthwash (increased the reading, probably due to the alcohol it
contains)
• Hyperventilation (either no change
or increased the reading)
• Placing a battery in the mouth (!)
– no change
• Eating a raw onion (no change –
except for the breath of the eater!)
• Denture cream (no change)
• Placing copper coins in the mouth
(dare we say it – no change for small
change!)
You might like to check some of
these out (and other “sure-fire” methods you might hear about) with your
own SILICON CHIP Alcohol Level Meter
(not too sure about the battery or coins
in the mouth, though . . .)
Parts List –
Alcohol Level Meter
1 PC board coded 05090051,
123 x 60mm
1 UB3 box, 130 x 67 x 44mm
1 MQ-3 alcohol fume sensor
(Jaycar RS-5605) (Sensor 1)
1 cigarette lighter plug
1 mini heatsink, 19 x 19 x 10mm
1 2-way PC mount screw terminal
block
1 M3 x 10mm screw and nut
6 PC stakes
1 200mm length of light-duty
figure-8 polarised wire
1 150mm length of 0.8mm tinned
copper wire
Semiconductors
1 LM3914 10-LED bargraph display driver (IC1)
1 7805 5V regulator (REG1)
1 10-LED bargraph (LED1-LED10)
1 1N4004 1A diode (D1)
1 16V 1W zener diode (ZD1)
Capacitors
1 100mF 16V electrolytic
2 10mF 16V electrolytic
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
1 100kW
1 3.9kW
1 2.7kW
1 1kW
1 10W 1/2W
1 500kW horizontal trimpot
(code 504) (VR1)
October 2005 71
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au/
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au/
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au/
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au/
By JOHN CLARKE
FAN
TIMER
This Timer can run the fan in your bathroom
or toilet for a fixed time after you turn it on.
This avoids having the fan run for hours if you
forget to turn it off. You can build it to operate
in one of two modes – immediate or delayed.
U
NLESS YOU CAN KEEP your
windows open all the time, you
really do need ceiling exhaust fans
in your toilet and bathroom to clear
steam and odours. Good ventilation
stops mould growing on the ceilings
and walls and minimises water condensation on the walls and windows
if you are having a long, hot shower.
76 Silicon Chip
This Fan Timer is housed in a plastic
box which is installed near the fan,
usually in the ceiling. When you build
it, you can set the Timer for one of two
modes of operation which we have
called “immediate” and “delayed”
modes.
In the “delayed” mode, you switch
the fan in the normal way using the
wall switch. The fan then runs for as
long as the switch is left on. When you
flip the wall switch off, the fan will
then run for a preset period before it
switches off automatically.
In the “immediate” mode, the fan is
also switched on using the wall switch
but in this case, the fan will then run
for a preset period before it switches off
automatically. If you need to run it for
a longer time, you flip the switch to its
other position to make the fan run for
the same preset period. Alternatively,
you can extend the fan running time
by the same preset period, by flipping
the wall switch to its other position
before the fan stops. If you do this, the
fan timer will acknowledge the time
extension by giving a short beep.
siliconchip.com.au
In fact, you can do this twice, to
run the fan for three times the normal
preset period. Switching a third time
turns the fan off.
Each mode has its advantages. The
“immediate” mode has the advantage
that the fan switch does not need to
be manually switched off. This mode
is ideal for a household with children!
The “delayed” mode is more suited
to people who want to run the fan as
long as they are in the bathroom or
toilet and who always remember to
manually switch off the fan when they
leave (letting it run for the preset time).
Our choice would be to use the “immediate” mode – that way you don’t
have to remember to switch off!
The preset running period can be
selected from 20 seconds up to 22
minutes. Depending on the room and
size of the exhaust fan, a setting of
around 5-10 minutes would usually
be selected.
Switch wiring
Fig.1 shows the way the Fan Timer
connects to the fan and switch. Fig.1(a)
shows the normal fan wiring. The Neutral is permanently connected to one of
the fan terminals while the Active side
of the fan connects to the switch.
Fig.1(b) shows the wiring when
the Fan Timer is installed, interposed
between the mains Active and the
fan. Note that the Fan Timer also
requires Active and Neutral power
connections.
Note that the fan switching in your
home might be more complex, depending on whether the fan is wired in parallel with ceiling lights or is separately
switched. The fan might also be part of
a fan/heat/light setup like an IXLTastic
or similar brand.
Which ever fan/light setup you
have, the Fan Timer is installed in the
ceiling cavity and you will need the
services of a licensed electrician to
legally make the connections.
As shown in the photos, the Fan
Timer is housed in a small plastic box
and it incorporates screw terminals to
allow the 240VAC mains connections
to be made.
Circuit description
Fig.2 shows the Fan Timer circuit
which is based on a PIC16F88 microcontroller (IC1) and a sensitive-gate
Triac. There is not much else: several
diodes, a piezo transducer and a few
resistors and capacitors. The microsiliconchip.com.au
SWITCH
A
A
A
SWITCH
SW
A
FAN
TIMER
FAN
FAN
A
N
N
FAN
N
N
N
(a)
(b)
Fig.1(a) at left shows how the fan is normally connected, which Fig.1(b)
shows how the Fan Timer is interposed between mains Active and the fan.
controller senses the selected mode
and the setting of the wall switch,
operates the piezo transducer and
drives the Triac gate for the preset
time.
Before discussing the circuit of
Fig.2, we need to demonstrate how
we derive the 5V supply to power the
timer circuitry. We have shown this
in simplified form in Fig.3. In effect,
we need to produce a 5V rail capable
of powering the PIC microcontroller
and delivering several milliamps gate
current to the Triac.
Since we only need a few milliamps
of DC, we can derive this directly from
the 240VAC mains via the relatively
high reactance of a 470nF capacitor
(C1) combined with a 1kW 5W resistor
(R1). This means that there is very low
power dissipated in the timer box.
The circuit works as follows. For
positive half-cycles of the 240VAC
mains voltage, a current i1 flows from
the Active through the 470mF capacitor, diode D1, resistor R1 and capacitor C1. For negative half-cycles of the
240VAC, a reverse current i2 flows via
C1, R1 and zener diode ZD1.
So successive positive half-cycles
charge up the 470mF capacitor until
WARNING!
This circuit is directly connected to the mains and all parts
operate at 240VAC. As such,
contact with ANY part of the
circuit could result in serious
injury or even death!
DO NOT operate this circuit
unless it is fully enclosed in the
specified ABS plastic case and
DO NOT touch any part of the
circuit while it is connected to
the mains.
A licensed electrician must be
used to connect this unit to fixed
electrical wiring.
its voltage is limited by the 5.6V zener
diode ZD1. Subtract the 0.6V voltage
drop of diode D1 and this results in a
supply voltage to the timer of 5V.
Note that the zener diode works
in two modes: limiting the voltage
across the 470mF capacitor for posi-
Main Features
•
•
•
•
•
•
Fan runs for preset time period
Connects to standard fan wiring using original switch
Adjustable time period from 20 seconds to 22 minutes
Immediate timer start or delayed timer start (selected by single on-board
jumper link)
Up to three times period extension using immediate timer mode
Piezo sound indication for switch on and period extension
October 2005 77
K
1k 5W
A
R1
K
A
ZD1
5.6V
1W
470F
16V
PIEZO
TRANSDUCER
2.2k
4
MCLR
14
Vdd
10
D1
1N4007
9
RB3
RB1
RB2
A
C1
470nF
250VAC
CLASS X2
RB4
VR1
10k
TIME
18
RB5
AN1
RB6
IC1
PIC16F88
RB0
13
RB7
RA3
SC
FAN TIMER
A
G
10
11
A2
12
A1
1k
1W
TRIAC1
BTA08600TW
FAN
2.2k
6
SW
22F
16V
1.5M
2
N
VR25
Vss
4.7nF
5
NOTE: EARTH SYMBOL DOES NOT
REPRESENT MAINS EARTH,
BUT CIRCUIT COMMON
2005
K
8
JP1
IN = DELAYED
OUT = IMMEDIATE
CONTACT MAY BE LETHAL!
47nF
250VAC
CLASS X2
D2
UF4003
470
7
10k
WARNING: ALL COMPONENTS
AND WIRING OPERATE AT
240V MAINS POTENTIAL.
100F
16V
100nF
BTA08-600TW
ZD1
A
D1, D2
K
A
K
A1
A2
G
Fig.2: the circuit is based on a PIC16F88 microcontroller (IC1). This senses the selected mode and the setting of the
wall switch, operates a piezo transducer and drives the gate of Triac1 to turn on the fan for the preset time period.
tive half-cycles and conducting as a
conventional diode for negative halfcycles. The derived 5V DC supply is
tied to the mains Active; ie, it floats at
240VAC and so is hazardous!
Now that we know how the circuit is
powered, it is somewhat easier to see
how it works – see Fig.2. Microcontrol-
ler IC1 does all the work, sensing when
the wall switch is operated, driving the
gate of the Triac to turn it on, driving
the piezo transducer to produce an
audible beep (as mentioned above)
and a few other functions which we
will get to shortly.
Most of the time, IC1 is in sleep
Fig.3: here’s how the 5V DC rail is derived for the timer circuitry. The
dashed lines (i1 and i2) indicate the direction of current flow on alternate
half cycles, with successive positive half-cycles charging the 470mF
capacitor. The voltage across this capacitor is limited to 5.6V by ZD1.
Subtract the 0.6V across D1 and you get 5V DC. Note that this 5V DC rail
“floats” at 240VAC.
78 Silicon Chip
mode, waiting for a signal from its interrupt input at pin 6 (port RB0). The
wall switch provides that signal via a
2.2kW resistor, with the 22mF capacitor providing filtering to “debounce”
the switch signal and also make it less
sensitive to any interference signals
picked up by the switch wiring.
Normally, pin 6 is pulled low by
its associated 10kW resistor. However,
when the wall switch is closed, to turn
on the fan, it pulls pin 6 high to +5V
(actually to the 240VAC Active line).
This causes the microcontroller to
wake up and begins its timing function for the fan.
After the preset time, the microcontroller reverts to sleep mode, waiting
for the next throw of the switch.
Five outputs of IC1 (ports RB1RB6) are paralleled to drive the gate
of Triac1 via a 470W resistor and fast
diode D2. The resistor limits the gate
current to around 7mA when the five
port outputs go low to pull current out
of the gate of the Triac to turn it on to
run the fan.
A snubber network comprising a
47nF 250VAC capacitor and 1kW 1W
siliconchip.com.au
Par t s Lis t
1 PC board, code 10110051, 89 x
81mm
1 sealed IP65 ABS box, 115 x 90 x
55mm (Jaycar Cat. HB-6126)
1 4-way PC-mount terminal barrier
with cover, 9.5mm pitch (Jaycar
Cat. HM-3162)
1 low-profile piezo transducer (Jaycar Cat. AB-3440)
4 M4 x 10mm screws
2 M4 x 15mm screws
2 M2 x 10mm screws
6 M2 nuts
1 2-way pin header (2.54mm)
1 jumper shunt (JP1)
2 PC stakes
1 25mm length of 0.8mm tinned
copper wire
1 10kW (code 103) horizontal trimpot (VR1)
Semiconductors
1 PIC16F88 microcontroller programmed with fantimer.hex (IC1)
resistor is connected across the Triac to
damp any voltage spikes from the fan
motor that may damage the Triac. Incidentally, the specified BTA08-600TW
Triac is listed as a “snubberless” type,
which means that it supposedly does
not require an external snubber network. However, we have included
the components anyway, to be sure
1 BTA08-600TW 8A 600V 5mA
logic drive Triac (TRIAC1) – do
not substitute
1 5.6V 1W zener diode (ZD1)
1 1N4007 1A 1000V diode (D1)
1 UF4003 fast recovery diode (D2)
Capacitors
1 470mF 16V PC electrolytic
1 100mF 16V PC electrolytic
1 22mF 16V PC electrolytic
1 470nF 250VAC class X2
metallised polyester
1 100nF MKT polyester
1 47nF 250VAC class X2
metallised polyester
1 4.7nF MKT polyester
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
1 1.5MW VR25 (ie, high voltage –
do not substitute)
1 10kW
1 1kW 1W, 5%
2 2.2kW 1 470W
1 1kW 5W, 5% 1 10W
that it can handle a wide range of AC
fan motors.
The Triac is also referred to as
a “logic level” type but this is not
because it requires a 5V logic signal
to turn on (like a logic-level Mosfet)
but because its low 5mA gate current
means that it can be easily turned on
by logic circuitry.
This circuit does not use a crystal
oscillator but instead relies on an internal oscillator inside IC1, running
at about 4MHz. The 1.5MW resistor
and 4.7nF capacitor at pin 2 of IC1
allow the microcontroller to detect
the phase of the mains waveform, so
the fan can be switched on and off at
the zero crossing point of the 240VAC
sinewave. Note that the 1.5MW resistor
is a Philips VR25 high-voltage type,
specified because it has the full mains
voltage applied to it at all times.
Pin 4 is a brownout input. Should
the supply drop below about 4V, the IC
will be held reset until the voltage rises
back above 4V. This brownout reset
ensures that the microcontroller will
operate correctly after any brownout
condition has ended.
Linking options
Pin 13 (RB7) selects the delayed or
immediate mode of operation, depending on whether a link is connected
(delayed mode) or omitted (immediate mode). When the microcontroller
is reset or first powered up, the RB7
input is pulled high via an internal
pull-up resistor and it checks to see if
the pin is high or pulled low via the
link. Once it “knows” the answer, the
internal pull-up resistor is deselected
and no current flows through the link
(if present).
Pin 9 (port RB3) drives the piezo
transducer via a 10W limiting resistor.
The transducer is driven with a square
wave at around 2kHz to produce an
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makes PICAXE the most easy-to-use micro ever:
PICAXE “programmer" is two resistors and a 4.5V battery!
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In AUSTRALIA:
In NEW ZEALAND
sicom.co.nz
altronics.com.au
(Retail
and
Mail
Order)
oatleyelectronics.com
surplustronics.co.nz
School Electronic Supplies (John - 03 8802 0628 – School orders only)
October 2005 79
15001101
REMIT NAF WARNING: ALL PARTS OPERATE
AT HIGH VOLTAGE
PIEZO
TRANSDUCER
47nF
250VAC
CLASS X2
10
A
1N4007
VR1
NAF
TRIAC1
BTA08-600TW
470
2.2k
IC1 PIC16F88
ZD1
D1
JP1
ACTIVE
1k 1W
100nF
470F
audible beep when the timing period
is increased.
Finally, there is the question of selecting the preset times for the fan to
run. Trimpot VR1 is connected across
the 5V supply rail and its wiper can
be set to provide between 0V and 5V
to pin 18 (AN1). This input monitors
the voltage and an internal analogto-digital (A/D) converter produces
a digital value which determines the
preset timing period.
Fig.5 shows the expected delay
times for different settings of VR1.
D2
4.7nF UF4003
1
22F
10k
100F
WS
2.2k
N
FAN
SWITCH
Construction
NEUTRAL
Before starting construction, be sure
to read the warning panel at the start
of this article. All parts of this circuit
operate at 240VAC and are potentially
lethal if accidentally touched while it
is connected to the mains.
The Fan Timer is built on a PC board
coded 10110051 and measuring 89 x
81mm. Fig.4 shows the parts layout.
Begin by checking the PC board
against the published pattern to ensure there are no shorts between tracks
or breaks in the copper. That done,
install two PC stakes to accept the
piezo transducer connections, then
install the 2-way header for jumper
plug JP1.
Follow these with the wire link and
the resistors. Table 1 shows the resistor
colour codes but you should also use
a multimeter to check the values, as
some of the colours can be difficult to
decipher. Note that the 1.5MW resistor
must be a VR25 high-voltage type (do
NOT substitute).
1.5M
VR25
10k
470nF
250VAC
CLASS X2
1k 5W
Fig.4 (above): follow this parts layout diagram to build the PC board. Take
care with component orientation and note that the 1kW 5W resistor should
be mounted slightly proud of the board to aid cooling.
Below: leave jumper JP1 out if
you want the timer to operate in
immediate mode, or install it for
extended mode operation.
Table 2: Capacitor Codes
Value
470nF
100nF
47nF
4.7nF
μF Code IEC Code EIA Code
0.47µF
470n
474
0.1µF
100n
104
.047µF 47n
473
.0047µF 4n7
472
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
No.
1
1
2
1
1
1
80 Silicon Chip
Value
1.5MW (VR25)
10kW
2.2kW
1kW 5%
470W
10W
4-Band Code (1%)
brown green green yellow
brown black orange brown
red red red brown
brown black red gold
yellow violet brown brown
brown black black brown
5-Band Code (1%)
NA
brown black black red brown
red red black brown brown
NA
yellow violet black black brown
brown black black gold brown
siliconchip.com.au
Note also that the 1kW 5W resistor
should be mounted 3-4mm proud of
the PC board to allow the air to circulate beneath it for cooling.
Next, install a socket for IC1, making
sure the orientation is correct – the
notched end goes towards the 100mF
capacitor as shown on Fig.4. That
done, the capacitors can be installed
but watch the polarity of the electrolytics.
Diodes D1, D2 and ZD1 can go in
next, again making sure they are all
correctly oriented. Also, be careful not
to get D1 and D2 mixed up – D1 is a
1N4007, while D2 must be a UF4003
fast recovery type.
Now for the Triac. This must be
installed with its metal tab facing
towards the terminal block. Push it as
far down onto the PC board as it will
comfortably go before soldering its
leads. Note: be sure to use the specified
Triac – do not substitute for this part.
The piezo transducer can go in
next. It’s secured to the PC board using two M2 screws and six M2 nuts,
with four of these nuts (two on each
side) acting as spacers (ie, they go
between the transducer and the PC
board). That done, slide some smalldiameter heatshrink tubing over the
transducer’s leads and solder them to
the adjacent PC stakes (the polarity
isn’t important). The heatshrink can
then be slid down over the PC stakes
and shrunk down to insulate (and
strengthen) the connections.
The large shrouded 4-way screw
terminal strip is next on the list – just
push it all the way down onto the PC
board and solder it at the four central
points. The two outer mounting points
are not used here – ie, leave the mounting screws out.
Finally, finish the PC board assembly by inserting the programmed PIC
microcontroller (IC1) into its socket.
Installing it in the case
The completed PC board is housed
inside a sealed IP65 ABS plastic box
measuring 115 x 90 x 55mm. The
specified unit (see parts list) is made
of high-impact ABS material and
features wall-mounting holes that
are fully isolated from the internal
compartment.
It also features four integral mounting pillars with threaded brass inserts
on the base and the lid-fixing screws
also go into threaded brass inserts at
the corners.
siliconchip.com.au
The PC board is fastened to integral
tapped pillars inside the case using
four M3 x 10mm screws.
FULLY
ANTICLOCKWISE
20 SECONDS
FULLY
CLOCKWISE
6 MINUTES
11 MINUTES
16 MINUTES
22 MINUTES
VR1 TIME SETTINGS
Fig.5: here’s how to set trimpot VR1 for various delay time intervals. Note
that this trimpot operates at high voltage, so don’t attempt to adjust it after
the Fan Timer has been connected to the mains unless you use a fullyinsulated tool.
Do not substitute for this case, as
it’s ideally suited to the job. For safety
reasons, it’s vital that the PC board be
fully enclosed inside the case, with no
protruding metal parts. Don’t even
think of using a metal case!
The plastic case will need to be
drilled so that there is access for the
external wiring to connect to the screw
terminals. These holes also allow the
sound from the piezo transducer to
escape from the box.
Before installing the board, go over
your work carefully and check that all
parts are in their correct locations and
that all polarised parts are oriented
correctly. Check also for any short
circuits due to solder bridges on the
copper side of the PC board.
Once you are sure that everything
is correct, the board can be installed
in the box. It’s simply secured to the
four tapped integral pillars using M3
x 10mm screws.
You now have to decide on the time
that you want the fan to run for and
adjust trimpot VR1 accordingly. Fig.5
shows the expected time periods for
several positions of VR1. Do not attempt to adjust VR1 after the circuit
has been connected to the mains,
unless you use a fully-insulated
tool (the trimpot operates at mains
potential).
You also have to decide on the operating mode that’s required. Leave JP1
out if you simply want the fan to run
for a set time after if has been turned
October 2005 81
50801001
MAINS
ACTIVE
REMIT NAF
A
NAF
WS
N
A
SWITCH
FAN
SW
A
FAN
N
N
MAINS
NEUTRAL
Fig.7: these two warning labels should be cut out
and affixed to the inside walls of the case.
Fig.6: here’s how the Fan Timer is connected to the mains and the fan.
on (this is the “immediate” mode).
Alternatively, install jumper JP1 if the
want the fan to continue running for a
set time after it has been switched off
(“delayed” mode).
By the way, don’t be tempted to
substitute a conventional pot for
trimpot VR1. That would be much too
dangerous. Remember – it operates
at 240VAC.
Finally, the front panel label should
be affixed to the case lid, while the two
warning panels should be cut out and
attached to a couple of inside walls.
Installation
There is no safe way to test the Fan
Timer circuit before it is installed – see
the warning panel. It really is a matter of installing it and then seeing if it
works correctly.
Note that this unit should only be
connected to the house wiring by a licensed electrician. Note that the specified box has mounting holes adjacent
to the four corner pillars, which means
that it can be secured to a timber beam
or floor joist using wood screws. These
mounting holes are fully isolated from
the internal circuitry, so this is safe to
do with the specified case.
When the Fan Timer is powered
up, the switch will initially have to
be “switched over” a couple of times
to turn the fan on. This will also have
to be done if there has been a power
blackout or brownout.
This feature prevents the fan from
starting up on its own when power is
initially applied to the circuit. Once
the fan has been switched on, the
switch then acts as normal, according
to the timing mode set by JP1.
Dealing with a thermostat
Fig.8: above are the full-size artworks for the front panel & the PC board.
82 Silicon Chip
Finally, note that some exhaust fans
are incorporated into heater lamp assemblies – eg, the IXLTastic range, as
used in bathrooms. In these units, the
fan will automatically start and run
when the temperature reaches a certain level within the fan enclosure. The
switching is done using a thermostat
and is necessary to provide cooling
inside the housing.
The thermostat switch is connected
between mains Active and the fan and
will therefore operate in parallel with
the Triac of the Fan Timer. This means
that the thermostat will override the
Fan Timer when closed, with the Fan
Timer then operating normally when
SC
the thermostat opens.
siliconchip.com.au
PRODUCT SHOWCASE
OEM Bluetooth from RF Modules
RF Modules Australia has introduced a range of miniature OEM
Bluetooth modules, suited to a wide
range data link applications.
The Promi-ESD and Promi-ESD-02
OEM Bluetooth modules offer short
and medium range, low-power, reliable bi-directional data link communications in a miniature footprint. Their
UART interface makes them ideal for
embedding in low power applications where connectivity to the new
wave of Bluetooth equipped devices
is required.
The Promi-ESD-02 Class 2 Bluetooth
module, measuring 18 x 20 x 6mm, is
equipped with an on-board chip antenna giving an effective range of up
to 30 meters, making it ideal for PCB
mounting where space is a premium.
This module offers low power operation and is suited to battery powered
and hand held applications.
The Promi-ESD Class 1 Bluetooth
module, measuring 27 x 27 x 6mm,
is supplied with an external antenna,
cable and connector.
Being a higher power Bluetooth
module,
it gives an
effective
range of up
to 100m.
Both
modules are configured as Bluetooth
Serial Port Profile (SPP) devices providing integration into Microsoft Windows XP Bluetooth support.
They can be paired with most modern Pocket PC and Palm devices that
support Bluetooth connectivity. The
modules are compliant to Bluetooth
specification V1.1.
The modules are supported by a
separately available development and
testing jig, the Promi-DBS, to allow the
user to configure and test the modules.
The test jig is supplied with a suitable
serial adapter cable, configuration
software and manuals on CD.
Contact:
RF Modules Australia
PO Box 1957, Launceston, Tas 7250
Tel: (03) 6331 6789 Fax: (03) 6331 1243
Website: www.rfmodules.com.au
Jaycar sponsors “Sunsprint” solar car race series
Jaycar Electronics was the major
sponsor for the recent “Sunsprint”
solar-powered model car races.
Teams of enthusiastic constructors from secondary schools designed and built the “cars” which
were then raced against each other
on a figure-8 circuit including a
very testing (for some!) overpass at
the University of New South Wales,
shown in our photo at right.
There was also a straight, short
course for a “novice” division.
In somewhat overcast conditions
for the Sydney event (which were
described by organisers as the best
conditions for years!) cars completed
two laps of the course, if they could
– although the shadow under the
overpass put paid to some!
Gary Johnston, Managing Director
of Jaycar Electronics, said that his
company was delighted to support
this popular – and growing – event
siliconchip.com.au
Altronics’ new Melbourne
store DMM
GIVEAWAY
Altronics
would like
to welcome
all Victorian
electronics enthusiasts and
hobbyists to
their new Melbourne store,
located in Springvale and opening
on October 3rd.
As an enticement they are offering you an excellent digital
multimeter absolutely free with
any purchase (even a 50 cent
purchase!). Simply ask for the free
multimeter mentioned in SILICON
CHIP magazine, October issue.
Strictly limited to one per person
during October 2005.
This fantastic little 3.5 digit
multimeter features 19 ranges including an in-built transistor and
diode test function.
This meter provides a surprising
number of features and facilities
and would be perfect for the budding enthusiast or a spare meter
for the toolbox or glovebox.
ONLY at Altronics (Melbourne store)
891 Princes Hwy, Springvale Vic
TOROIDAL POWER
TRANSFORMERS
which combined design, electronics
and mechanical skills.
The winner of the Sydney event,
next to race at the National Finals in
Melbourne (also sponsored by Jaycar),
was St Pauls Catholic College, Greystanes, with their car no. 5; “Nitrous”.
Contact:
Jaycar Electronics
PO Box 6424, Silverwater NSW 1811.
Tel: 1800 022 888 Fax: (02) 9741 8500
Website: www.jaycar.com.au
Manufactured in Australia
Comprehensive data available
Harbuch Electronics Pty Ltd
9/40 Leighton Pl. HORNSBY 2077
Ph (02) 9476-5854 Fx (02) 9476-3231
October 2005 83
USB to USB copies without a PC
With so many USB devices around
these days, there are many times you
need to copy data from one to another.
It’s not hard to do – just plug both devices into computer USB ports, wait
until they’re recognised, and copy.
But what if you don’t have a computer handy? This nifty little device
from Microgram Computers lets you
copy data from USB device to USB device without a PC. You simply choose
the source and destination – and start
copying!
It’s ideal for copying MP3s, software,
pictures and general data files from
one to another and even checks your
LCD wall brackets
Altronics have
released two new
LCD mounting
brackets for monitors and televisions. Top is the
H8180, which allows both horizontal and vertical
adjustment for use
in a wide variety
of installations.
Mounting holes are
provided for standard VESA sizes,
making them with most LCDs.
Botom is the H8181, similar to the
above unity but is more stylish and
has an extendable arm.
TDK Semiconductor
no more!
destination first to avoid overwriting
or duplication. It makes a perfect
backup system, supporting USB mass
storage devices using FAT12/16/32
file systems.
It sells for $79.00 from Microgram
Computers (Cat 3574-13).
TDK Semiconductor Corporation, a
leader in mixed-signal integrated circuits, has changed it name to Teridian
Semiconductor Corporation, effective
immediately.
The company’s new name comes as
they launch a number of new products
in the residential and industrial meter,
smart card reader, Ethernet, and WAN
markets.
The company is working with its
customers to facilitate a smooth name
change transition.
Contact:
Contact:
1/14 Bon Mace Cl, Berkeley Vale 2261
Tel: (02) 4389 8444 Fax: (02) 4389 8388
Website: www.microgram.com.au
6440 Oak Canyon, Irvine Ca 92618-5201
Tel: 0011 1 714 508 8800
Website: www.teridian.com
Microgram Computers
Teridian Semiconductor
DSE’s USB-controlled Electrocardiograph kit
Dick Smith Electronics have released their long-awaited kit for the
Electrocardiograph, as featured in the
February 2005 SILICON CHIP.
The DSE kit has all specified components and hardware including the
USB interface module from Elexol
and a pair of ECG pads will also be
supplied in the kit to get constructors started. Additional pads (Cat
ZA-5743) are available from the kit
department and in turn can be or-
dered from their nearest DSE outlet
or from our Direct-Link Mail order
centre (Toll Free – Australia Only –
Phone 1300 366 644).
A specially designed case has
been manufactured for the project.
It is fully punched, powder-coated
(matte black) and screen printed to
give the final project that professional
“your friends won’t believe you built
it” look.
Priced at $139.00, kits will be
available from all DSE retail stores
(excluding PowerHouses), mail-order
and internet sales. (Cat K-3704)
Contact:
Contact:
Box 8350, Perth Business Centre 6849
Tel: 1300 797 007 Fax: (08) 9428 2187
Website: www.altronics.com.au
PO Box 500, Regents Park DC NSW 2143.
Tel: 1300 366 644 Fax: (02) 9642 9155
Website: www.dse.com.au
Altronics Distributors
Dick Smith Electronics (all stores)
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We supply
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modules
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monitoring. We also stock low cost easy to
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use Bluetooth
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VHF
&
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Low
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Radio
Modules
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Tel: 1800
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ilicon hip
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SILICON CHIP
WebLINK
Want your product or service featured both
here and on the SILICON CHIP website for the
one low price?
Contact Phil Benedictus or Lawrence Smith
on (02) 9211 9792 for all the details!
84 S
C
RF Modules Australia
JAYCAR
JAYCAR ELECTRONICS
ELECTRONICS
WebLINK: www.rfmodules.com.au
WebLINK:
WebLINK: www.jaycar.com.au
www.jaycar.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
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LED Light Fittings
Wall
Mount
Various colours
and types –
- Bullet
- Square
- Round in Gold
- Chrome
- Satin Chrome
- White
- Black.
Please view website.
We stock a complete range of especially selected
quality light fittings for most applications.
These fittings complement our LED-based MR16 lamps
and are factory assembled for long life operation.
Direct connection to 12V (AC or DC) makes these
lights ideal for back-up or emergency lighting
and for use in low-power (energy saving) systems.
All light fittings are supplied fully assembled
and fitted with 3Watt High-Power LEDs,
withlow power consumption, typically
300mA <at>12V
Ideal for Caravans, Motorhomes, Boating
and Camping applications.
Waterproof/
Outdoor
Various types
available –
- Brass
- Bronze
- Stainless Steel
- Black
- Green
Ceiling Mount
(Stainless Steel)
We also stock a full range of other Ceiling, Wall mount
and Outdoor type light fittings.
Please visit our web site to view a full and detailed
colour brochure of all fittings available and request
further information.
Hi-Output MR16 LED LAMPS
Uses 3 Watt Hi-Output LED with Expected Life 50,000 hours plus
Input 12-24VDC or 12-18VAC (low power consumption, 300mA <at>12V)
Up to 60 Lumens light output
Wide beam angle 110° (Narrow beam angle available soon)
Total height 39mm (+ Pins) (colour changing longer)
Standard 50mm diameter. Drop-in for MR16 lamp housing
No UV or Heat radiation (Run much cooler than standard halogens)
Conforms to IEC, CE & EN standards
For use with “iron core” transformers (electronic type not recommended)
COLOURS:
3 Shades of white & 10 colours available:
Sun White, Cool White, Warm White,
Red, Amber, Orange, Purple, Magenta, Green,
Grass Green, Blue, Light Blue, Cyan
PLUS:
Multicolour changing lamp with RGB LED
(cycles through various Red, Green, Blue
colour changing routines)
Colour control option via IR Remote or RS485.
Fully Dimmable
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Drop it, step on it,
scratch it . . .
the
iButton is a hard ‘nut’ to crack!
The iButton family of devices feature silicon
chips armoured within 16mm stainless steel
cans. Here we describe the basics of these
unique devices and then show you how to
build a simple PICAXE-based project to read
their serial numbers!
By Clive Seager*
T
HE iBUTTON FAMILY consists
of over 20 different products, including devices that contain memory,
temperature sensors, data loggers and
even Java computers. Every iButton
produced (to date over 100 million)
has a unique silicon serial number.
This feature makes the iButton ideal
for use in automatic identification
systems.
In fact, the simplest member of the
family, the DS1990A Serial Number
iButton, is designed specifically for
identification tasks. Like all devices,
An assembled PICAXE
iButton reader board,
complete with iButton
probe & piezo sounder.
Although not visible
here, the probe has an
LED in its centre for
visibility at night.
its 64-bit serial number is guaranteed
to be unique and therefore traceable.
iButton serial numbers are also laser
engraved on the outsides of the cans so
that human eyes can read them!
Owing to the small size and robust
nature of the iButton package, it can
travel with a person or object to provide many useful functions, including
access control, environmental monitoring and data storage.
The stainless steel button is durable
enough to be worn everyday on an
accessory like a ring, key fob, wallet,
watch, metal card or badge. It is also
water resistant and so can be worn
while washing or swimming.
The information in an iButton can be
accessed by tapping it against a simple
dual-contact metal probe connected to
an electronic reader circuit. This type
of metal probe is much cheaper and
more durable than a magnetic swipe
or “smart-card” reader and the iButton
itself can have a much larger memory
capacity. iButton technology is also
cheaper than radio frequency style ID
cards (RFID).
Inside an iButton
The electronics inside an iButton
connects to the outside world via the
base and lid of the metal can, which are
electrically isolated from one another
by a polypropylene grommet. When
an iButton is momentarily touched
against a probe, the side makes a
ground connection and the lid (face)
makes a power/data connection.
In a fraction of a second, the iButton
accumulates sufficient energy from the
reader to power its circuits. It then
communicates with the reader over the
* About the author: Clive Seager is the
Technical Director of Revolution Education
Ltd, the developers of the PICAXE system.
86 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
n
o
Fig.1: here’s the circuit diagram for the reader. The data line from the iButton
probe is connected to input 4 of the PICAXE microcontroller (IC1), with power
to the probe provided by a 4.7kW pull-up resistor. The transistor (TR1) can be
used to drive an external relay when a valid iButton serial number is detected.
same connection, providing its serial
number and more, depending on the
type of device.
For obvious reasons, Dallas refers
to this ultra-simple power and data
connection method as a “1-Wire”
interface. The relatively complex
communications protocol used over
the interface is known as the 1-Wire
protocol. Communications speed
is 16kbps in “standard” mode and
142kbps in “overdrive mode”.
The iButton can transmit a surprisingly amount of information in a relatively short time. In fact, it is almost
impossible to tap an iButton against a
probe quicker than the time required
by the iButton to transmit its serial
number. This makes the iButton an
ideal device for applications such as
locks where operation must appear to
be virtually instantaneous.
As the 1-Wire interface provides
power to the iButton, most devices
siliconchip.com.au
Here’s what’s
inside an
iButton can!
do not require an internal battery. Together with their robust steel casing,
this makes for a product with a very
long life span.
PICAXE iButton reader
Due to the complexity of the 1-Wire
protocol, iButton readers are typically microcontroller based and this
is where our PICAXE project for this
month comes in. Using the PICAXE
BASIC command readowsn (for read
The kit includes
one DS1990A
iButton and
a plastic fob
which are
easily snapped
together.
October 2005 87
Fig.2: use this diagram
as a guide when
assembling the reader.
Don’t forget to install
a wire link between
the two “+” holes at J1
and double-check the
orientation of IC1, D1,
TR1 and the battery
leads.
Par t s Lis t For
iButton Reader
1 AXE109 PC board
1 3.5mm stereo socket (CT1)
3 2-way terminal blocks (CT2CT4)
1 4-pin 2.54mm-pitch SIL header
1 8-pin IC socket
1 100nF polyester capacitor
1 piezo sounder
1 battery clip
1 3 x AA battery holder
1 plastic iButton holder
1 DS9092L iButton probe with
LED
Semiconductors
1 PICAXE-08M (IC1)
1 1N4001 diode (D1)
1 BC548 transistor (Q1)
1 DS1990A Serial Number
iButton
Resistors (0.25W 5%)
2 10kW
1 4.7kW
1 330W
1 1kW
1 22kW
Also required (not in kit)
PICAXE Programming Editor
software (v4.1.0 or later)
PICAXE download cable (part
no. AXE026)
3 x AA alkaline cells
Here’s what the assembled PC
board look like. As shown, the C2
component position on the board
is left vacant.
one-wire serial number), users can
read the unique serial number from an
iButton with the aid of a very simple
circuit and without detailed technical
knowledge of the protocol.
The circuit for the PICAXE-08M
iButton reader appears in Fig.1. As
shown, the circuit could be used to
drive a solenoid type lock (via a relay)
but is probably more suitable for use as
a building block within more complex
circuits.
PICAXE enthusiasts will find the circuit quite straightforward. The 1-Wire
bus from the iButton probe connects
to input 4, with power to the bus provided by the 4.7kW resistor to 4.5V. An
optional external push-button switch
can be connected to input 3 to allow
for manual activation in a door lock
application.
A transistor (TR1) driven from
output 1 provides an open-collector
output that can be used to drive an
external relay. Diode D1 across the
output terminals limits the back-EMF
spike generated during relay switching. As mentioned, the relay could be
used to power a solenoid type door
lock. Alternatively, the transistor output could be used to trigger a circuit
of your own creation.
All that remains to be mentioned are
the piezo sounder and LED outputs,
which are connected to output 2 and
output 0, respectively. Note that the
LED is incorporated in the centre of
the iButton probe housing (supplied
in the kit) to provide an aiming point
during night-time use.
As with most PICAXE projects,
the circuit must be powered from a
4.5V battery pack or regulated 5V DC
supply.
Assembling the reader
The simplicity of this design makes
for a very simple PC board layout with
few parts, so assembly is very straightforward. Using the overlay diagram in
Fig.2 as a guide, begin by installing the
resistors, diode (D1) and IC socket for
the PICAXE-08M (IC1).
Take particular care that the notch
in the IC socket matches that shown
on the diagram. This will be used as
a guide when plugging in the PICAXE
chip, which also has a notch on
one end. Also note that the cathode
(banded) end of the diode (D1) must
iBUTTON
Obtaining Kits & Software
The design copyright for this
project is owned by Revolution
Education Ltd. Complete kits (part
no. AXE109) for this project are
available from authorised PICAXE
distributors – see www.picaxe.
com.au or phone Microzed on
(02) 4351 0886. The PICAXE Programming Editor software can be
downloaded free of charge from
www.picaxe.co.uk or ordered on
CD (part no. BAS805).
88 Silicon Chip
CONNECTING
WIRES TO READER
WOODEN OR MOULDED
PLASTIC BASE
TWO PAPER CLIPS
BENT TO MAKE
THE CONTACTS
Fig.3: it’s easy to make your own probe for experimental purposes using a
pair of paper clip “contacts” anchored to a wooden or epoxy resin base.
siliconchip.com.au
iButton At The Big Idea Exhibition
An iButton can be attached to a
plastic card and used for access
control instead of magnetic stripe
technology.
There’s no traditional key slot in this
door handle – just a probe to accept
an iButton for user identification!
be oriented as shown.
Use one of the resistor lead off-cuts
to make a link (J1) between the two
pads marked “+”. Following that,
install the 100nF capacitor and transistor TR1, noting that the flat side of the
transistor must face the capacitor.
All of the connectors (CT1-CT4) can
go in next. You may find that the kit
includes one 2-way and one 4-way
screw-terminal block. The 4-way terminal block is easily converted into
two 2-way blocks simply by snapping
(or sliding) it apart! Push the stereo
socket (CT1) down firmly so that it
snaps into place before soldering.
The final step is to install a 4-way
single-in-line (SIL) header strip for
connection to the iButton probe. This
is probably supplied in a 10-way strip
in the kit but is easily cut down to the
correct length with a sharp knife or
side cutters.
The battery clip and piezo sounder
can now be connected to the board.
It is crucial that the battery leads
are connected around the right way;
otherwise, the PICAXE chip will be
destroyed at power up! To reiterate,
siliconchip.com.au
Mechanisms exhibit at The Big Idea exhibition (photograph © Revolution
Education Ltd 2000).
T
he Big Idea is a permanent £13
million ($A31 million) technology
millennium exhibition, located on the
site of Alfred Nobel’s dynamite factory
in Ardeer, Scotland. It is essentially a
giant inventors’ workshop, with a large
number of hands-on exhibits explaining
the principle themes of technology and
invention to children.
The Big Idea uses a custom iButton tracking system developed by
The visitor's iButton tag activates
Revolution Education Ltd. On entry to
the various exhibits. (photograph
the exhibition, each visitor is given an
© Revolution Education Ltd 2000)
iButton tag housed in a plastic key fob.
At the same time, the visitor’s name
and postcode is entered into the computer system, along with their unique iButton serial number.
As the visitor moves around the exhibition, the iButton tag is used to activate
the various exhibits. At the interactive computer screens, the visitor is welcomed
by name when the iButton is touched, whereas at the physical exhibits, the iButton activates the exhibit and sets a timeout period.
One of the many unique features of The Big Idea is that each visitor is given an
inventor’s pack to build and take away. These packs are dispensed by a vending
machine, once again triggered with the touch of an iButton.
Each time a visitor’s iButton is used, the time and location are logged by a
computer system. This is used to create a personal “certificate of achievements”,
which is available for collection at the end of the day.
October 2005 89
Listing 1
main:
let b6 = 0
low 0
low 1
loop:
toggle 0
if pin3 = 0 then open
pause 250
readowsn 4
if b6 <> 0 then test
goto loop
'reset family code to 0
'LED off
'output off
'LED on or off
'switch pushed?
‘wait
'read serial number on input4
'ibutton detected
' iButton detected so check serial number,
' if wrong number then jump back to start
test:
sound 2,(50,50)
high 0
if b13 <> $FA then main
if b12 <> $00 then main
if b11 <> $00 then main
if b10 <> $0B then main
if b9 <> $23 then main
if b8 <> $A1 then main
if b7 <> $00 then main
if b6 <> $01 then main
Above & below: iButtons can
be attached to almost anything
given the appropriate holder.
'beep
'probe LED on
'modify all of these
'to match your unique
'iButton serial number!
' Everything is OK so switch output on for 5 secs
open:
sound 2,(100,50)
high 1
high 2
pause 5000
goto main
'beep
'LED on
'output on
'wait 5 seconds
the red wire from the clip goes to ‘V+”
and the black wire to “0V”. As you can
see from the diagram and photos, the
piezo leads can be threaded through
the adjacent corner hole before soldering to provide strain relief.
PICAXE program
The BASIC program in Listing 1
shows how easy it is to read an iButton serial number using the PICAXE08M. When a valid serial number is
returned by the readowsn command, it
is compared with a predefined 16-digit
(8-byte) number.
If the numbers match, the transistor is switched on for five seconds
and the piezo generates a two-tone
sound. If not, a single tone is generated instead and the program loops
back to the start.
90 Silicon Chip
Finally, the toggle command is used
to flash the LED in the centre of the
iButton probe, allowing you to find it
in the dark of night!
Note that you must alter the serial
number values where indicated to
match the unique code that is laser
engraved in “2-12-2” format on the
face of your iButton. For example,
the iButton used with the program in
Listing 1 would be engraved like this:
FA
01
00000B23A100
Each unique code uses the hexadecimal digits 0-9 and A-F. Do not confuse
D with 0 or B with 8!
Making your own probe
As described earlier, the two connections necessary for iButton operation (power/data and ground) are made
with a purpose-built probe. Although
off-the-shelf probes are readily available, it’s a relatively simple matter
to make your own for experimental
purposes. As shown in Fig.3, a pair
of paper clip “contacts” could be
anchored to a base such as wood or
epoxy, for example.
However, if you have a serious
application in mind, you will probably want to purchase the kit for this
project as it includes a professional
quality probe with an embedded LED
(see photo).
Want more information?
The iButton is an interesting lowcost technology that can be incorporated into numerous projects. By
modifying the circuit provided, the
iButton can become the “key” to many
exciting projects!
Detailed information about the
iButton range is available from the
Dallas Semiconductor/Maxim website
SC
at www.iButton.com
siliconchip.com.au
The complete iButton datalogger
starter pack includes one DS1921G
iButton, a Blue Dot adapter, USB
adapter and Windows-based
software.
By Clive Seager*
The DS1921 iButton
. . . a temperature datalogger in a 16mm stainless steel can!
One of a range of datalogging iButtons, the
DS1921 houses a battery and an embedded
computer chip that integrates a temperature
sensor, a clock/calendar and memory.
T
HE MEASUREMENT RANGE for
the DS1921 iButton’s temperature sensor is -30°C to +85°C in 0.5°
increments, while the clock measures
seconds to years accurately to +1
minute per month from 0°C to 45°C.
Incredibly, the iButton can log data for
siliconchip.com.au
more than 10 years, or up to 1 million
temperature measurements.
As well as the datalogging memory,
these devices also incorporate a further
512 bytes of user memory. This space
could be used to store a product description, shipping manifest or even a
student’s name, for example.
All iButtons include a unique
16-digit silicon serial number for identification. As described in our previous
iButton article, this serial number can
be read out using a simple PICAXE08M circuit and BASIC program.
Unfortunately, PICAXE BASIC does
not include any commands that enable
us to easily access the DS1921’s other
resources over the 1-Wire bus.
However, iButton manufacturer
Dallas Semiconductor and Revolution
Education have produced a generalpurpose Windows-based application
October 2005 91
A Commercial Application: Making Sure The Fish Stayed Cold
The DS1921 iButton belongs to
the Thermochron family of dataloggers, which include devices with
high accuracy measurements, larger
memories and even humidity measurement capabilities. These devices
continue to be applied in a wide range
of commercial applications, including
food quality control, as highlighted in
the following example.
Around the coast of Scotland
and Canada, aqua-culture farms
rear salmon for sale to restaurants
around the world. Many salmon are
destined for Japan and therefore
must be transported by air, packed
in crates of ice.
It is naturally very important that
the fish are maintained at the correct temperature during the journey,
particularly if they are subjected to
delays at the airport terminals. For this
reason, it is desirable to constantly
monitor the temperature of the fish
over the duration of the journey.
The DS1921 iButton temperature
that provides full access to the iButton’s resources. The software is well
suited for use in a classroom or laboratory situation, as it provides all that’s
necessary to initiate datalogging and
retrieve mission results.
To use the software, the iButton’s
1-Wire bus must be hooked up to the
PC’s serial or USB ports. Let’s see how
it all works.
datalogger is ideal for this purpose.
This small, low-cost iButton is easily
clipped onto a piece of plastic and
placed beside the fish in each crate.
The iButton is programmed to take
readings every 30 minutes and its
memory is programmed with the
shipping details, such as lot number
and batch quantity.
As the iButton contains an internal battery, it operates completely
autonomously, requiring no external
connection to perform its pre-programmed datalogging tasks.
When the crate arrives at its destination in Japan, the merchant can
retrieve the iButton, connect it to a
laptop or Palm computer and upload
the data. The temperature readings
can be displayed as a graph and the
merchant can check that the salmon
have been stored between the correct
temperature thresholds for the entire
journey. If the temperature limits have
been exceeded the fish are rejected
and destroyed. This ensures that only
the finest quality fish are sold on to
the restaurants.
The iButtons are collected and
then mailed back to the salmon
farms so that they can be reused.
As the iButton has a life span of up
to 10 years, it can be reused many
times, making it a very cost-effective
datalogging device.
Before the computer chip in an iButton will begin logging temperature and
time information, the user must first
set a number of key parameters. These
are as follows:
• Set the internal clock to the current
date and time.
• Enter mission details (eg, student
name and purpose of experiment).
• Set the sample rate (1 minute to
255 minutes).
• Set the upper and lower temperature alarm threshold values.
• Set the mission start delay (time
before the mission starts – up to 45
days).
To perform the configuration, the
iButton is clipped into a “Blue Dot”
adapter, which is in turn connected to
a computer via its serial or USB port.
The Windows software can then be
used to set all of the parameters and
initiate the mission.
Once configuration is complete,
the iButton is removed from the Blue
Dot adapter and placed in the logging
position. The iButton’s stainless steel
case withstands dirt, moisture and
rough treatment and its small size
means that it can be attached unob-
Fig.1: software supplied with the
starter pack makes it very easy to
configure the iButton for a mission.
Fig.2: once a mission has been
launched, its status can be viewed at
any time.
Fig.3: current mission data is automatically downloaded from the
iButton when the software is launched.
Configuring the iButton
92 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
trusively to most container surfaces
or walls.
This could include bottles, boxes,
crates, pallets, air cargo containers,
refrigerators, semi-trailers, etc.
Retrieving mission data
When the mission is complete,
the iButton is retrieved and clipped
into the Blue Dot adapter again. The
software is then used to extract mission data. Reports and graphs can be
generated from the data and it can be
exported in CSV format for use in other
applications (eg, Excel).
Data storage in detail
The iButton stores data in three
different ways that serve different application needs, as follows:
(1). TEMPERATURE LOGGING: the
iButton can take 2048 time and date
stamped temperature readings at equal
intervals, spaced between 1 and 255
minutes. At a 1-minute interval, this
equates to about 1.4 days, whereas at
a 255-minute interval, this equates to
almost a year of continuous operation. The battery lasts for 10 years, so
almost a million readings are possible
in this time.
To fully utilise the recording mission, the user chooses the time to begin
temperature taking, sets a sampling
rate, sets high and low alarm thresholds, and determines whether to “rollover” when 2048 time and temperature
readings are completed (or to simply
stop logging at that point).
(2). HISTOGRAM BINS: the iButton also simultaneously stores each
temperature sample in a histogram.
The histogram memory consists of
56 bins in 2° increments; each bin
can hold up to 65,500 temperature
readings. The histogram method of
data storage serves applications that
require long-term monitoring or the
ability to instantly assess whether a
minimum or maximum threshold has
been compromised.
For example, when storing blood or
other biomedical products, it is critical to know if certain user-defined
temperature thresholds have been
exceeded. The histogram instantly
reveals this information, together
with the length of time the thresholds
have been exceeded. The histogram
keeps recording after the standard
log is full.
(3). THRESHOLD ALARMS: both
upper and lower threshold alarms
siliconchip.com.au
The “Blue Dot” adapter provides a connection point for one or two iButtons
during configuration and data retrieval. Hook-up to the PC is made via an
RS232 serial or USB adapter.
Fig.4: graphs and charts of the results can be instantly displayed and printed.
They can also be exported in CSV format from the main toolbar.
can be set. If the iButton temperature
exceeds these thresholds at any point
an alarm time/date stamp will be
recorded. This reveals exactly when,
and for how long, an alarm threshold
was exceeded.
Summary
Dallas Semiconductors’ iButtons
open up a completely new world of
datalogging possibilities. Check out
their website at www.iButton.com for
all the details.
As well as their many commercial
applications (see panel), Revolution
Education believe that the low-cost
DS1921 temperature dataloggers will
find use in the lab and classroom. To
this end, they are making a complete
“starter pack” available.
The iButton datalogger starter pack
(Part No. LOG001) contains a DS1921
iButton, Blue Dot adapter, USB adapter
and PC software on CD and is avail-
able from www.microzed.com.au or
phone MicroZed on (02) 4351 0886.
Individual iButtons are also available
SC
from MicroZed.
* About the author: Clive Seager is the
Technical Director of Revolution Education
Ltd, the developers of the PICAXE system.
Select your microcontroller
kit and get started...
From
$295*
RCM3400
Fax a copy of
this ad and
receive a
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• Prices exclude GST and delivery charges.
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www.dominion.net.au
4007
October 2005 93
Salvage It!
BY JULIAN EDGAR
A $5 2-channel vibration sensor
Want to make a vibration sensor for just a
few dollars? All you need is an old cassette
deck and a couple of loudspeakers!
T
HIS 2-CHANNEL vibration sensor
costs almost nothing to make but is
sensitive enough to detect a cat walking past on a wooden floor!
To make it, you’ll need a discarded
(but still working) cassette deck that
has VU meters (these can be either
analog or digital) plus a couple of
loudspeakers, which can be easily
salvaged from an old stereo TV. If you
can’t score that lot for under $5.00,
you’re not really trying.
High-gain preamplifiers
The unit takes advantage of the fact
that a cassette deck uses two high-gain
preamplifier stages that work with very
small signals. Normally, these signals
are read off the tape by the heads but
what we do here is feed in new signals
which are derived from coils of wire
moving in a magnetic field. And since
loudspeakers have very strong magnets, coils with lots of windings and
very small internal clearances, they
make ideal sensors for our vibration
detector.
If the speaker basket (or frame) is
firmly attached to the ground and a
vibration occurs, the basket and the
cone will tend to move at different
rates. For example, if there is a sudden
movement upwards, the inertia of the
cone means that it gets left behind for
a moment.
As a result, the magnet will move in
relation to the coil (which is attached
to the cone) and a small voltage will
be generated.
This voltage is amplified and displayed on the cassette deck’s VU
meters. The greater the needle deflec-
It looks like a $1000 instrument but costs less than $5 to make. This 2-channel
vibration detector is actually based on a slightly modified cassette deck and
uses conventional loudspeakers as vibration sensors. It’s sensitive enough to
detect a cat walking past on a wooden floor.
94 Silicon Chip
tion, the greater the amount of vertical
vibration that has occurred.
Building it
At its simplest, the vibration detector
will take only a few minutes to make.
First, make sure that the power cord is
disconnected from the mains supply
and then take the cover off the cassette
deck. Now trace the leads (they’ll be
shielded) that connect the PC board to
the heads. There will be six conductors
in all – a common, play and record
signal feed for each head.
Cut these wires and feed them out
of the case. That done, replace the lid,
power-up the deck, press the “Play”
button and then connect a speaker
across the wires for one channel, trying various combinations until you
find a pair which causes a VU meter
to strongly react to any speaker movement.
Now do the same for the other channel. You may need to extend these
leads and in our case, we used the RCA
cables that came with the deck.
While we were at it, we also stripped
the cassette deck of the surplus parts.
For example, the complete tape mechanism was removed. Why? Well, the
DC motor, drive belts and springs can
find a use in another project, as can
the tape counter. There’s no need to
leave them inside the “unit”.
Of course, if you take this approach,
you’ll need to activate the same
switches that pressing the “Play” button normally does. For example, if a
single switch is closed when “Play”
is pressed, the wires leading to that
switch will need to be connected
together. On the other hand, you may
find that when the cassette mechanism
is removed, the unit is effectively always in “Play” mode.
Note too that different speakers will
give different sensitivities. We tried a
siliconchip.com.au
Rat It Before You
Chuck It!
We chose to remove the internal bits and pieces that were no longer needed –
the cassette mechanism, tape transport buttons, access door and so on. This
allows these parts to be used in other projects and gives a much lighter unit.
Whenever you throw away an old
TV (or VCR or washing machine or
dishwasher or printer) do you always
think that surely there must be some
good salvageable components inside?
Well, this column is for you! (And it’s
also for people without a lot of dough.)
Each month we’ll use bits and pieces
sourced from discards, sometimes in
mini-projects and other times as an
ideas smorgasbord.
And you can contribute as well. If you
have a use for specific parts which can
easily be salvaged from goods commonly being thrown away, we’d love
to hear from you. Perhaps you use the
pressure switch from a washing machine to control a pump. Or maybe you
salvage the high-quality bearings from
VCR heads. Or perhaps you’ve found
how the guts of a cassette player can
be easily turned into a metal detector.
(Well, we made the last one up but you
get the idea . . .)
If you have some practical ideas,
write in and tell us!
here, we elected to keep the original
scales.
Changing the sensitivity
The loudspeakers detect vibration and generate a small voltage as the magnet
moves past the voice-coil in each unit. The larger the speakers, the more sensitive the instrument.
variety and found that the larger the
speaker, the more sensitive the unit
became.
The speakers shown here (100mm
units salvaged from a stereo TV) were
used in the author’s unit and give a
noticeable reading when anyone walks
anywhere in the house (a two-storeyson-stilts Queenslander). And that even
includes walking on the concrete pad
under the house!
As I type this, the unit is on my desk;
with each normal force keystroke, the
display meters are reading just under
full-scale!
New faceplate
To make the unit look less like a
siliconchip.com.au
cassette deck and more like a vibration detector, you can make a new
faceplate. If the original faceplate is
removable (most are), take it off and
scan it into your PC. You can then
use image manipulation software to
construct the new visuals, putting on
whatever labels you want.
That done, print it out at full-size on
heavy stock, gloss paper and affix it to
the original faceplate. The label can
then be protected using clear contact
adhesive film or a couple of strips of
broad adhesive tape.
Another option is to replace the
scale behind the VU meters. You can
make the scale read anything you like
but in the case of the unit shown
If the sensitivity of the unit is too
great, simply reduce the size of the
speaker. Adding weights to the cone
also alters the response.
When exploring the use of different
speakers, be aware that a typical house
is full of background vibrations. The
compressor in the fridge can cause
sufficient vibration to swamp other
signals, while a PC cooling fan can also
cause clearly visible room vibration.
So to be able to watch earth vibrations
caused by (say) visitors walking up
to your front door, you’ll need to remotely mount the speaker sensor away
from this house-borne noise – but note
that the sensitivity will be reduced if
the cable is too long.
Logging the output
Finally, if you want to feed the
output signal into a logging system or
drive an external display, line-level
output voltages will be available on the
normal RCA outputs of the deck. SC
October 2005 95
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
ALL S ILICON C HIP SUBSCRIBERS – PRINT,
OR BOTH – AUTOMATICALLY QUALIFY FOR A
REFERENCE $ave 10%ONLINE
DISCOUNT ON ALL BOOK OR PARTSHOP PURCHASES.
CHIP BOOKSHOP 10% (Does not apply to subscriptions)
SILICON
For the latest titles and information, please refer to our website books page: www.siliconchip.com.au/Shop/Books
PIC MICROCONTROLLERS: know it all
SELF ON AUDIO
Multiple authors $85.00
The best of subjects Newnes authors have written over the past few years,
combined in a one-stop maxi reference. Covers introduction to PICs and their
programming in Assembly, PICBASIC, MBASIC & C. 900+ pages.
PROGRAMMING and CUSTOMIZING THE
PICAXE By David Lincoln (2nd Ed, 2011) $65.00*
A great aid when wrestling with applications for the PICAXE
See
series of microcontrollers, at beginner, intermediate and
Review
April
advanced levels. Every electronics class, school and library should have a
copy, along with anyone who works with PICAXEs. 300 pages in paperback. 2011
PIC IN PRACTICE
by D W Smith. 2nd Edition - published 2006 $60.00*
Based on popular short courses on the PIC, for professionals, students
and teachers. Can be used at a variety of levels. An ideal introduction to the
world of microcontrollers. 255 pages in paperback.
PIC MICROCONTROLLER – your personal introductory course By John Morton 3rd edition 2005. $60.00*
A unique and practical guide to getting up and running with the PIC. It assumes no knowledge of microcontrollers – ideal introduction for students,
teachers, technicians and electronics enthusiasts. Revised 3rd edition focuses entirely
on re-programmable flash PICs such as 16F54, 16F84 12F508 and 12F675. 226 pages
in paperback.
by Douglas Self 2nd Edition 2006 $69.00*
A collection of 35 classic magazine articles offering a dependable methodology for designing audio power amplifiers to improve performance at every
point without significantly increasing cost. Includes compressors/limiters,
hybrid bipolar/FET amps, electronic switching and more. 467 pages in paperback.
SMALL SIGNAL AUDIO DESIGN
By Douglas Self – First Edition 2010 $95.00*
The latest from the Guru of audio. Explains audio concepts in easy-to-understand language with plenty of examples and reasoning. Inspiration for audio
designers, superb background for audio enthusiasts and especially where it comes to
component peculiarities and limitations. Expensive? Yes. Value for money? YES! Highly
recommended. 558 pages in paperback.
AUDIO POWER AMPLIFIER DESIGN HANDBOOK
by Douglas Self – 5th Edition 2009 $85.00*
"The Bible" on audio power amplifiers. Many revisions and
updates to the previous edition and now has an extra three
chapters covering Class XD, Power Amp Input Systems and
Input Processing and Auxiliarly Subsystems. Not cheap and not a book
for the beginner but if you want the best reference on Audio Power Amps,
you want this one! 463 pages in paperback.
DVD PLAYERS AND DRIVES
by K.F. Ibrahim. Published 2003. $71.00*
OP AMPS FOR EVERYONE
By Bruce Carter – 4th Edition 2013 $83.00*
This is the bible for anyone designing op amp circuits and you don't
have to be an engineer to get the most out of it. It is written in simple language
but gives lots of in-depth info, bridging the gap between the theoretical and the
practical. 281 pages,
A guide to DVD technology and applications, with particular focus
on design issues and pitfalls, maintenance and repair. Ideal for
engineers, technicians, students of consumer electronics and
sales and installation staff. 319 pages in paperback.
by Sanjaya Maniktala, Published April 2012. $83.00
Thoroughly revised! The most comprehensive study available of theoretical and practical aspects of controlling and measuring
EMI in switching power supplies.
Subtitled Exploring the PIC32, a Microchip insider tells all on this powerful
PIC! Focuses on examples and exercises that show how to solve common,
real-world design problems quickly. Includes handy checklists. FREE CD-ROM includes
source code in C, the Microchip C30 compiler, and MPLAB SIM. 400 pages paperback.
By Garry Cratt – Latest (7th) Edition 2008 $49.00
Written in Australia, for Australian conditions by one of Australia's foremost
satellite TV experts. If there is anything you wanted to know about setting up
a satellite TV system, (including what you can't do!) it's sure to be covered
in this 176-page paperback book.
See
Review
Feb
2004
SWITCHING POWER SUPPLIES A-Z
PROGRAMMING 32-bit MICROCONTROLLERS
IN C By Luci di Jasio (2008) $79.00*
PRACTICAL GUIDE TO SATELLITE TV
See
Review
March
2010
ELECTRIC MOTORS AND DRIVES
By Austin Hughes & Bill Drury - 4th edition 2013 $59.00*
This is a very easy to read book with very little mathematics or
formulas. It covers the basics of all the main motor types, DC
permanent magnet and wound field, AC induction and steppers and
gives a very good description of how speed control circuits work with these
motors. Soft covers, 444 pages.
NEWNES GUIDE TO TV & VIDEO TECHNOLOGY
By KF Ibrahim 4th Edition (Published 2007) $49.00
It's back! Provides a full and comprehensive coverage of video and television technology including HDTV and DVD. Starts with fundamentals so is
ideal for students but covers in-depth technologies such as Blu-ray, DLP,
Digital TV, etc so is also perfect for engineers. 600+ pages in paperback.
RF CIRCUIT DESIGN
by Chris Bowick, Second Edition, 2008. $63.00*
The classic RF circuit design book. RF circuit design is now more important
that ever in the wireless world. In most of the wireless devices that we use
there is an RF component – this book tells how to design and integrate in a
very practical fashion. 244 pages in paperback.
PRACTICAL RF HANDBOOK
AC MACHINES
By Jim Lowe Published 2006 $66.00*
Applicable to Australian trades-level courses including NE10 AC Machines,
NE12 Synchronous Machines and the AC part of NE30 Electric Motor
Control and Protection. Covering polyphase induction motors, singlephase motors, synchronous machines and polyphase motor starting. 160
pages in paperback.
PRACTICAL VARIABLE SPEED DRIVES &
POWER ELECTRONICS
Se
e
by Malcolm Barnes. 1st Ed, Feb 2003. $73.00* Review
An essential reference for engineers and anyone who wishes
to design or use variable speed drives for induction motors.
286 pages in soft cover.
Feb
2003
BUILD YOUR OWN ELECTRIC MOTORCYCLE
by Carl Vogel. Published 2009. $40.00*
by Ian Hickman. 4th edition 2007 $61.00*
Alternative fuel expert Carl Vogel gives you a hands-on guide with
A guide to RF design for engineers, technicians, students and enthusiasts.
the latest technical information and easy-to-follow instructions
Covers key topics in RF: analog design principles, transmission lines,
for building a two-wheeled electric vehicle – from a streamlined
couplers, transformers, amplifiers, oscillators, modulation, transmitters and
scooter to a full-sized motorcycle. 384 pages in soft cover.
receivers, propagation and antennas. 279 pages in paperback.
*NOTE: ALL PRICES ARE PLUS P&P – AUSTRALIA ONLY: $10.00 per order; NZ – $AU12.00 PER BOOK; REST OF WORLD $AU18.00 PER BOOK
To
Place
Your
Order:
INTERNET (24/7)
PAYPAL (24/7)
eMAIL (24/7)
www.siliconchip.
com.au/Shop/Books
Use your PayPal account
silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
with order & credit card details
FAX (24/7)
MAIL (24/7)
Your order and card details to Your order to PO Box 139
Collaroy NSW 2097
(02) 9939 2648 with all details
PHONE – (9-5, Mon-Fri)
Call (02) 9939 3295 with
with order & credit card details
You can also order and pay for books by cheque/money order (Mail Only). Make cheques payable to Silicon Chip Publications.
ALL TITLES SUBJECT TO AVAILABILITY. PRICES VALID FOR MONTH OF MAGAZINE ISSUE ONLY. ALL PRICES INCLUDE GST
ALL S ILICON C HIP SUBSCRIBERS – PRINT,
OR BOTH – AUTOMATICALLY QUALIFY FOR A
REFERENCE $ave 10%ONLINE
DISCOUNT ON ALL BOOK OR PARTSHOP PURCHASES.
CHIP BOOKSHOP 10% (Does not apply to subscriptions)
SILICON
For the latest titles and information, please refer to our website books page: www.siliconchip.com.au/Shop/Books
PIC MICROCONTROLLERS: know it all
SELF ON AUDIO
Multiple authors $85.00
The best of subjects Newnes authors have written over the past few years,
combined in a one-stop maxi reference. Covers introduction to PICs and their
programming in Assembly, PICBASIC, MBASIC & C. 900+ pages.
PROGRAMMING and CUSTOMIZING THE
PICAXE By David Lincoln (2nd Ed, 2011) $65.00*
A great aid when wrestling with applications for the PICAXE
See
series of microcontrollers, at beginner, intermediate and
Review
April
advanced levels. Every electronics class, school and library should have a
copy, along with anyone who works with PICAXEs. 300 pages in paperback. 2011
PIC IN PRACTICE
by D W Smith. 2nd Edition - published 2006 $60.00*
Based on popular short courses on the PIC, for professionals, students
and teachers. Can be used at a variety of levels. An ideal introduction to the
world of microcontrollers. 255 pages in paperback.
PIC MICROCONTROLLER – your personal introductory course By John Morton 3rd edition 2005. $60.00*
A unique and practical guide to getting up and running with the PIC. It assumes no knowledge of microcontrollers – ideal introduction for students,
teachers, technicians and electronics enthusiasts. Revised 3rd edition focuses entirely
on re-programmable flash PICs such as 16F54, 16F84 12F508 and 12F675. 226 pages
in paperback.
by Douglas Self 2nd Edition 2006 $69.00*
A collection of 35 classic magazine articles offering a dependable methodology for designing audio power amplifiers to improve performance at every
point without significantly increasing cost. Includes compressors/limiters,
hybrid bipolar/FET amps, electronic switching and more. 467 pages in paperback.
SMALL SIGNAL AUDIO DESIGN
By Douglas Self – First Edition 2010 $95.00*
The latest from the Guru of audio. Explains audio concepts in easy-to-understand language with plenty of examples and reasoning. Inspiration for audio
designers, superb background for audio enthusiasts and especially where it comes to
component peculiarities and limitations. Expensive? Yes. Value for money? YES! Highly
recommended. 558 pages in paperback.
AUDIO POWER AMPLIFIER DESIGN HANDBOOK
by Douglas Self – 5th Edition 2009 $85.00*
"The Bible" on audio power amplifiers. Many revisions and
updates to the previous edition and now has an extra three
chapters covering Class XD, Power Amp Input Systems and
Input Processing and Auxiliarly Subsystems. Not cheap and not a book
for the beginner but if you want the best reference on Audio Power Amps,
you want this one! 463 pages in paperback.
DVD PLAYERS AND DRIVES
by K.F. Ibrahim. Published 2003. $71.00*
OP AMPS FOR EVERYONE
By Bruce Carter – 4th Edition 2013 $83.00*
This is the bible for anyone designing op amp circuits and you don't
have to be an engineer to get the most out of it. It is written in simple language
but gives lots of in-depth info, bridging the gap between the theoretical and the
practical. 281 pages,
A guide to DVD technology and applications, with particular focus
on design issues and pitfalls, maintenance and repair. Ideal for
engineers, technicians, students of consumer electronics and
sales and installation staff. 319 pages in paperback.
by Sanjaya Maniktala, Published April 2012. $83.00
Thoroughly revised! The most comprehensive study available of theoretical and practical aspects of controlling and measuring
EMI in switching power supplies.
Subtitled Exploring the PIC32, a Microchip insider tells all on this powerful
PIC! Focuses on examples and exercises that show how to solve common,
real-world design problems quickly. Includes handy checklists. FREE CD-ROM includes
source code in C, the Microchip C30 compiler, and MPLAB SIM. 400 pages paperback.
By Garry Cratt – Latest (7th) Edition 2008 $49.00
Written in Australia, for Australian conditions by one of Australia's foremost
satellite TV experts. If there is anything you wanted to know about setting up
a satellite TV system, (including what you can't do!) it's sure to be covered
in this 176-page paperback book.
See
Review
Feb
2004
SWITCHING POWER SUPPLIES A-Z
PROGRAMMING 32-bit MICROCONTROLLERS
IN C By Luci di Jasio (2008) $79.00*
PRACTICAL GUIDE TO SATELLITE TV
See
Review
March
2010
ELECTRIC MOTORS AND DRIVES
By Austin Hughes & Bill Drury - 4th edition 2013 $59.00*
This is a very easy to read book with very little mathematics or
formulas. It covers the basics of all the main motor types, DC
permanent magnet and wound field, AC induction and steppers and
gives a very good description of how speed control circuits work with these
motors. Soft covers, 444 pages.
NEWNES GUIDE TO TV & VIDEO TECHNOLOGY
By KF Ibrahim 4th Edition (Published 2007) $49.00
It's back! Provides a full and comprehensive coverage of video and television technology including HDTV and DVD. Starts with fundamentals so is
ideal for students but covers in-depth technologies such as Blu-ray, DLP,
Digital TV, etc so is also perfect for engineers. 600+ pages in paperback.
RF CIRCUIT DESIGN
by Chris Bowick, Second Edition, 2008. $63.00*
The classic RF circuit design book. RF circuit design is now more important
that ever in the wireless world. In most of the wireless devices that we use
there is an RF component – this book tells how to design and integrate in a
very practical fashion. 244 pages in paperback.
PRACTICAL RF HANDBOOK
AC MACHINES
By Jim Lowe Published 2006 $66.00*
Applicable to Australian trades-level courses including NE10 AC Machines,
NE12 Synchronous Machines and the AC part of NE30 Electric Motor
Control and Protection. Covering polyphase induction motors, singlephase motors, synchronous machines and polyphase motor starting. 160
pages in paperback.
PRACTICAL VARIABLE SPEED DRIVES &
POWER ELECTRONICS
Se
e
by Malcolm Barnes. 1st Ed, Feb 2003. $73.00* Review
An essential reference for engineers and anyone who wishes
to design or use variable speed drives for induction motors.
286 pages in soft cover.
Feb
2003
BUILD YOUR OWN ELECTRIC MOTORCYCLE
by Carl Vogel. Published 2009. $40.00*
by Ian Hickman. 4th edition 2007 $61.00*
Alternative fuel expert Carl Vogel gives you a hands-on guide with
A guide to RF design for engineers, technicians, students and enthusiasts.
the latest technical information and easy-to-follow instructions
Covers key topics in RF: analog design principles, transmission lines,
for building a two-wheeled electric vehicle – from a streamlined
couplers, transformers, amplifiers, oscillators, modulation, transmitters and
scooter to a full-sized motorcycle. 384 pages in soft cover.
receivers, propagation and antennas. 279 pages in paperback.
*NOTE: ALL PRICES ARE PLUS P&P – AUSTRALIA ONLY: $10.00 per order; NZ – $AU12.00 PER BOOK; REST OF WORLD $AU18.00 PER BOOK
To
Place
Your
Order:
INTERNET (24/7)
PAYPAL (24/7)
eMAIL (24/7)
www.siliconchip.
com.au/Shop/Books
Use your PayPal account
silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
with order & credit card details
FAX (24/7)
MAIL (24/7)
Your order and card details to Your order to PO Box 139
Collaroy NSW 2097
(02) 9939 2648 with all details
PHONE – (9-5, Mon-Fri)
Call (02) 9939 3295 with
with order & credit card details
You can also order and pay for books by cheque/money order (Mail Only). Make cheques payable to Silicon Chip Publications.
ALL TITLES SUBJECT TO AVAILABILITY. PRICES VALID FOR MONTH OF MAGAZINE ISSUE ONLY. ALL PRICES INCLUDE GST
Vintage Radio
By RODNEY CHAMPNESS, VK3UG
The Harbros 12/54B transceiver
Designed specifically for rural fire brigade
networks in the early 1950s, the Harbros 12/54B
transceiver was a 12-valve unit with some
interesting design features. It superseded armysurplus transceivers that had been adapted for
the job and was much easier to operate.
FS6 and many other ex-service sets
did require changes, as their transmitting frequencies were controlled only
by a VFO. The Postmaster Generals
Department required the transmitters
to be crystal-controlled, which meant
they had to be modified and submitted
for approval.
By the end of World War 2, the
value of radio communications was
apparent and returned servicemen
from country areas quickly realised
that 2-way radio could help coordinate
fire-fighting activities. Not only would
it make such activities more effective
but it would ensure greater safety for
firefighters as well.
At that time, here were many thousands of high-frequency (HF) portable
transceivers available on the military
surplus market at very moderate
Although army-surplus transceivers
worked well in these roles, they did
have their disadvantages. Generally,
they were quite bulky and heavy, were
often difficult to service and could
often only be operated effectively by
someone with technical knowledge.
They also usually had limited power
outputs while at the same time drawing high currents when operated from
a vehicle battery.
That list of negatives didn’t prevent
the sets from being used for fire-brigade or fishing fleet communications
though. When you have nothing else
to use, you will work around any
problems you encounter – which
the various operators and networks
did with considerable success. More
suitable commercial transceivers were
rare and costly at that time.
As the supply of cheap armysurplus equipment gradually dried
up, manufacturers began releasing
commercial HF transceivers to
meet the increasing demand for
equipment. Naturally, this new
equipment was manufactured
to meet specific requirements,
rather than being adaptations
of military equipment.
For example, some manufacturers concentrated on producing marine equipment, while
others concentrated on land-based
applications. One such company,
Hardinge Brothers of Horsham, Victoria, specialised in HF transceivers
for the rural fire-brigade networks
prices. As a result, transceivers such
as the FS6 and the 122 (described in
May 2003 and October 2003 respectively) were quickly pressed into
service on rural fire-brigade services.
In addition, many of these sets were
used by the Flying Doctor Service and
by fishing fleets.
The 122 required no modifications
to make it suitable for use in these
services, as it had both a variable-frequency oscillator (VFO) and a crystalcontrolled transmitter. However, the
The view shows the author’s fully restored unit. The cabinet was repainted
a hammer-tone green colour, which closely matches the original finish.
100 Silicon Chip
Disadvantages
siliconchip.com.au
An under-chassis view of the Harbros 12/54B transceiver. The receiver circuitry is to the left, while the transmitter
circuit is to the right.
– mainly the Country Fire Authority
networks in Victoria.
The Harbros 12/54B
Hardinge Brothers produced domestic radios before the war, although
apparently only in limited quantities.
The company subsequently tooled up
for the production of HF transceivers
in the early 1950s and the first unit
produced (as far as I am aware) was the
11/53M – an 11-valve, single channel,
HF transceiver with an output power
of 5W. The “11” in the model number
refers to the number of valves used,
“53” to the year of initial production
and the “M” to the fact that it was
primarily a mobile transceiver.
The later 12/54B model is a 12-valve
unit (not including power supply
rectifiers), first manufactured in 1954.
It was primarily intended as a base
transceiver and is rather more versatile
than the 11/53M, as it could transmit
on three crystal-locked channels. The
receiver could tune continuously from
2-6MHz and also boasted two crystallocked channels.
The controls on this set are somewhat simpler to understand and use
siliconchip.com.au
compared to the ex-service equipment,
as the more critical transmitter tuning
controls are preset within the case.
In fact, there are only five controls
in all: (1) receiver audio level; (2)
receiver tuning (2-6MHz); (3) transmitter frequency selector; (4) receiver
variable tune or crystal-locked tuning
selection; and (5) noise limiter on/off.
The power on/off switch has three
positions: (1) 12 VDC; (2) off; and (3)
240 VAC mains.
The 12/54B transceiver was expected to operate on AC power most of the
time, with 12V DC operation included
as a back-up in case the base station
location lost mains power.
Receiver circuit
The receiver circuit (see Fig.1) is
similar to that used in many high-performance domestic receivers of the era.
A 6BA6 (V1) acts as a tuned RF stage
and this is followed by a 6AE8 (V2)
as a frequency converter. Although a
conventional oscillator circuit is used
for the variable tuning, two frequencycontrolling quartz crystals in a Pierce
oscillator circuit are used for fixedfrequency reception.
Next comes a 455kHz IF amplifier
based on a 6BA6 (V3) and this is then
followed by a 6N8 (V4) as the second
detector, AGC diode and first audio
amplifier. The audio from the detector then goes to a noise limiter which
uses a 6AL5 (V6) dual diode. This
stage limits impulse interference, after which the audio is fed to the 6N8
pentode section.
A 6AQ5 (V5) functions as the second
audio amplifier which in turn drives
the loudspeaker.
Transmitter circuit
The transmitter section uses six
valves in all (V7-V12). A Pierce crystal
oscillator based on a 6AQ5 (V11) and
three switch-selectable crystals sets
the carrier frequency, although only
two crystals were usually fitted to the
unit. For example, in the unit I have,
the crystal frequencies are 2692kHz
and 4510kHz. The third position was
left vacant, as licences were usually
only issued for two frequencies.
The output of the crystal oscillator
is applied to the grid of the RF (radio
frequency) power amplifier, which is
based on a 6L6G (V10). V10’s output
October 2005 101
is then coupled via a tuned circuit to
the antenna. This stage is tuned to suit
the crystal frequency by switching different values of capacitance in parallel
with the output coil.
In operation, the “loading” of the
transmitter is adjusted to give optimum output. This is achieved by
varying the position of a coupling coil
which is wound onto a former and
placed over the main tuned circuit
winding – see photo.
The modulator is a 3-stage device
based on valves V7-V9. V7 (a 6AU6)
is wired as a grounded-grid audio
amplifier, with a carbon microphone
in the cathode circuit. Its output is fed
to another 6AU6 (V8) connected as a
triode and this in turn feeds a 6L6G
(V9) modulator output valve.
The resulting audio signal from V9
modulates the RF signal via a centretapped audio choke. As shown, this is
wired into the plate circuit of V9 and
into the plate and screen circuits of
the RF output stage (V10).
V12 (6U5/6G5) functioned as a
magic-eye tuning indicator (to indicate
modulation).
Fig.1: this is the complete circuit
for the Harbros 12/54B transceiver,
minus the power supply. The 6-valve
receiver section is along the top,
with the 6-valve transmitter below.
PTT switch
102 Silicon Chip
The changeover from receive to
send is accomplished by pressing
the PTT (press-to-talk) button on the
unit’s Zephyr carbon microphone.
This actuates a 3-pole relay and one
set of contacts transfers the HT (hightension) voltage from the receiver to
the transmitter. At the same time,
a second set of contacts swaps the
antenna from the receiver to the transmitter, while the third set removes a
short circuit from the HT at V7 in the
modulator and shorts the loudspeaker
voice-coil to earth.
The last operation is necessary to
prevent acoustic howl from occurring
at the changeover from transmit to
receive and vice-versa. It occurs because the transmitter and the receiver
remain in operation for a fraction of a
second after a changeover, as the filter
capacitors in the supply rails take a
finite time to discharge after the HT
is removed.
Mechanical clean-up
The transceiver featured here had
been in continuous service from 1961
until the early 1970s, when the Country Fire Authority changed to VHF radio communications. It then ended up
in a garage at a coastal location, where
siliconchip.com.au
the salt-laden air rusted the cabinets.
When I used an angle-grinder to clean
the rust off the lid, I found that it had
penetrated some distance underneath
the paint.
Fortunately, the transceiver and
power supply cabinets were in much
better condition. After removing the
circuitry, they were rubbed down with
fine sandpaper to remove any loose
paint and rust. The cabinets were then
cleaned down with turpentine and
given a coat of Wattyl Killrust metal
primer undercoat.
That done, I went looking for a
spray paint that would roughly match
the original green. Eventually, I came
across a hammer-tone metal finish
in Jade Green. This closely matches
the original hammer-tone finish so I
bought a can, even though it is rather
expensive. It is labelled as Galmet
metal protection and is easy to use.
Next, the knobs were removed and
cleaned by scrubbing them with a nail
brush dipped in soapy water. They
were then polished with an automotive cut and polish compound and now
look much brighter.
Next stop was the volume control.
This was extremely stiff to rotate, so
I sprayed Inox cleaner onto the shaft
and rotated it back and forth until it
operated freely. The valves were then
cleaned with soapy water, with only
gentle rubbing on the glass envelopes
to ensure the labelling remained in
place.
As a precaution, the octal valves
were all held upside down while this
work was being done, so that no water
could seep into the valve bases. This
isn’t necessary with the miniature
valves, since the valve pins emerge
directly through the glass envelope.
After that, it was a matter of attending to a few sundry details. The front
panel was cleaned with a kerosenesoaked rag, after which the dents were
removed from the speaker grill. The
grill was then resprayed with flat-black
paint and came up looking like new.
A kerosene-soaked rag was also
used to clean the top of the transceiver
chassis. I also replaced the 240V power
lead (it was starting to perish), cleaned
the microphone and adjusted the PTT
switch.
Servicing the power supply
A combined 240VAC and 12V vibrator power supply is used in these units.
and this one wasn’t without its probsiliconchip.com.au
The major components are neatly laid out on the top of the chassis. Power
comes from an external mains/vibrator supply.
lems. A quick inspection revealed that
the 2nF buffer capacitor in the vibrator
section had been overheating and had
leaked wax onto the bottom cover of
the power supply.
I initially checked the capacitor with
my 1000V tester and found it had a
leakage resistance of about 30MW. I
then decided to heat the capacitor with
a hair drier and observe the change (if
any) in its leakage resistance. When I
did this, its resistance quickly dropped
to just 1.5MW, so it was replaced immediately.
Unfortunately, I didn’t have a suitable high-voltage (2000V) 2nF capacitor so I made one up using three 8.2nF
630V polyester capacitors in series
across the secondary of the transformer. The higher resulting value (about
2.7nF) gives a lower standing current
with no load, so the transformer is better tuned than it was with the original
2nF capacitor. The voltage rating of
the three capacitors in series (about
1890V) is slightly lower than the rating of the original capacitor but this is
unlikely to cause problems.
The circuit shows the vibrator to be
a V6612 Oak unit. However, a V6606
is fitted with a 20W resistor in series
with the reed drive to drop the voltage
to around 6V. The drive voltage was
9V, so I changed the resistor to 56W
and the voltage is now much nearer
to what it should be.
The vibrator itself is not mounted in
a resilient-mount socket, so the noise
is quite noticeable when the unit is
operating. It probably really doesn’t
matter, as this is a communications
transceiver and the receiver is likely
to be used in an area where interference and general background noise is
present anyway.
The supply was also checked for any
shorts or low-resistance readings from
the high-tension (HT) line to chassis.
There were no problems here, so the
two 6X5GT rectifiers that had previously been removed were reinstalled.
The supply was then switched on and
the voltage across the filter capacitors carefully monitored. Then, after
a few seconds, the supply was turned
back off again, this cycle then being
repeated several times to reform the
electrolytic capacitors.
It really pays to be rather gentle with
6X5GT rectifiers, as they are prone to
develop short circuits from cathode
to filament if they are abused to any
extent. When I had finished overhauling the transceiver, I took the same
precautions with it, as it is on a separate
chassis to the power supply.
Overhauling the receiver
As is my usual procedure, I commenced overhauling the receiver section by testing the paper capacitors.
And I have to say that the units fitted
to this set would have to be the worst
batch I have come across.
October 2005 103
Photo Gallery: Kingsley Kit Set KFT-1
First marketed in Australia in 1946, this Kingsley receiver used “ferrotuning” to tune in stations (as opposed to the more conventional variablecapacitance tuning). This new system used a grooved brass spindle to
actuate sliding iron-dust cores inside the tuning coils, thus varying their
inductance. The set came with a colourful dial and circuits for three, four
and 5-valve models were available. The unit shown here is a 5-valve KFT1 medium-wave model using 6J8G, 6U7G, 6G8G, 6V6G and 5Y3G valves.
Ferrotuning never gained widespread popularity and such sets are now a
rarity. (Restored by Maxwell Johnson; photo by Ross Johnson).
They consisted mostly of miniature
AEE units (brown coloured) and their
leakage resistances varied between
1-10MW (as measured on a high-voltage
tester set to the 500V range). A couple
of these capacitors were also buried
under shielded audio cables and unless
you went looking for them, they could
have been easily missed.
I had no option but to replace the lot,
the only exceptions being the cathode
bypasses on several of the valves. In
the end, some 26 capacitors in total
were replaced in the receiver and
transmitter circuits.
The resistors were mostly 20%
tolerance types and most had gone
high by about 20%, so I didn’t need to
replace any. I also checked the speaker
transformer to make sure there was
This close-up view
shows the power
amplifier tank coil,
together with the
coupling coil which
has too many turns.
The roughly-wound
3-turn coil over the
tuned winding gives
better performance.
104 Silicon Chip
continuity across the primary winding
and this proved to be intact.
Once these checks had been completed, it was time to apply power.
I began by reforming the electrolytic
capacitors as described previously,
then let the receiver run. There wasn’t
so much as a peep out of it – it was
dead quiet.
It was time for some troubleshooting
and I started by checking the voltages
around the 6AQ5 output stage (V5).
This showed that the cathode voltage
was zero, which meant that no current
was being drawn by the valve.
I also measured the heater voltage
and found that there was 12V across
the valve socket instead of 6V. This
indicated that the heater had probably
gone open circuit.
I removed the valve and found that
the heater was intact, so I replaced it
again. It still wasn’t drawing current,
so I removed it again, re-tensioned the
socket pins and gave the socket a spray
with Inox lubricant. This time there
was some action and the receiver came
to life, although it was very noisy.
I tried wriggling the valve around
in its socket and this produced loud
crackles. After moving the valve
around for a while (to clean the contacts), these crackles disappeared – or
at least, they did for this stage. There
were still problems elsewhere.
Next, I tried moving the 6BA6 RF
stage (V1) around in its socket and
the same crackling problem occurred.
Its socket was also then sprayed with
cleaner and the pins re-tensioned before replacing the valve. And again, the
crackling problem disappeared.
The set was now sounding much
better, so I attached a signal generator to the receiver’s antenna, tuned
to one of the crystal-locked channels
and adjusted the generator for an
audible signal. The sensitivity was
poor, so I checked around the 6AE8
converter stage (V2) and cleaned the
frequency selector switch which was
also noisy.
This made no difference to the sensitivity so the 6AE8 was removed and
its socket also given the “treatment”.
This did improve the performance
but when I subsequently touched
the 6BA6 IF valve (V3), the crackling
became quite bad and the sensitivity
varied widely.
This valve was also removed and
its socket cleaned and tensioned, after
which the sensitivity improved quite
siliconchip.com.au
The power supply is housed in a separate box, with a front panel switch
used to select between mains or battery (12V DC) operation.
noticeably. I then checked the remaining valves and found that their sockets
all had bad contacts.
These were all given a good clean
up and the receiver was now turning
in a reasonable performance. All those
years spent in a salt-laden atmosphere
had certainly caused some problems.
Receiver alignment
At this stage, I decided that a quick
realignment of the receiver’s front-end
was the way to go.
First, I set the tuning to the 2692kHz
crystal-locked position and rotated the
receiver’s tuning dial until an increase
in sensitivity was observed. That done,
the signal generator was adjusted until
the signal was audible. I then peaked
the RF and aerial coils slugs for best
performance, after which the receiver
was switched to 4510kHz and the
signal generator and receiver tuning
again adjusted for best performance.
The aerial and RF coil trimmers were
then adjusted.
Unfortunately, the variable frequency oscillator adjustments did
not line up with the settings for best
reception on crystal-controlled operation. As a result, I set the receiver up
for best performance on the 2692kHz
crystal-locked position with the
signal generator, then switched to
the tunable position and adjusted
the oscillator slug until the 2692kHz
signal was heard. I then did the same
on 4510kHz, this time adjusting the
oscillator trimmer.
siliconchip.com.au
The set now tunes quite well and
signals well below a microvolt are
readily heard. It really is quite a “hot”
receiver!
I didn’t touch the IF alignment, as
it appears to be perfectly OK. Note
that care is needed in tuning the IF of
a crystal-locked receiver, as just peaking the IF alignment may mean that
the receiver is no longer tuning the
frequency it is intended to tune.
For example, to tune to 2692kHz,
the receiver’s crystal oscillator must
operate at 3147kHz. That’s assuming
an IF of 455kHz (ie, 3147 - 2692 = 455).
However, if the IF was aligned to say
465kHz, the actual frequency that the
receiver would now tune would be
2682kHz (ie, 3147 - 465 = 2682).
At this stage, there was just one
remaining problem with the receiver
– the hum level was quite noticeable.
It became inaudible when the volume
control was reduced to zero and I subsequently found that better shielding
around the detector and noise limiter
(6AL5) improved the situation.
When the set is on vibrator supply,
there is noticeable vibrator hash and
the use of the noise limiter is desirable. It’s not the best noise limiter in
the world but it does work.
Overhauling the transmitter
Like the receiver, the transmitter had
many leaky AEE capacitors that had to
be replaced. And like the receiver, the
resistors were all OK but just within
tolerance.
Having replaced the capacitors, it
was time to test the transmitter into a
dummy load/power meter. I pressed
the button on the microphone and
adjusted the tuning capacitor on each
of the transmit frequencies but could
only get 5W output on 2692kHz and
3W on 4510kHz with 15W input –
pathetic!
My suspicion was that the link
coupling coil to the antenna had too
many turns on it (12). To test this,
I temporarily converted the output
circuit to a Pi coupler and the output
increased to 7W on 2692kHz to 8W on
4510kHz. I then experimented with
the link coupling coil and found that
three turns (instead of 12) resulted in
an output of 6W.
This was still rather pathetic, as
with 15W input to the V10 plate
circuit, the output should have been
around 10W. The rated input to the
transmitter is 20W but I wasn’t pushing it that hard with my temporary link
coupling system.
The transmitter output stage doesn’t
gain any accolades from me. The ratio
of the inductance and capacitance in
the tank circuit (PA output tuned circuit) is not correct across most of the
band to which it tunes. Furthermore,
the link coupling method used for
extracting the RF energy from of the
tank circuit doesn’t work efficiently
in these transmitters. In my opinion,
a better-designed output circuit would
achieve an efficiency of 60-65% in the
SC
PA circuit.
October 2005 105
ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Write to: Ask Silicon Chip, PO Box 139, Collaroy Beach, NSW 2097; or
send an email to silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au
110V transformer
for disc player
I have a mini-disc player which is
obviously made for USA and runs on
110VAC. Is there any way this can be
used in Australia with some sort of
step-down device or voltage selector?
(T. B., via email).
• Jaycar Electronics have a range of
115V stepdown transformers which
will do the job. Mind you, some audio equipment comes with a mains
transformer with two 120V primary
windings connected in parallel for
115V operation. If you are competent
in this area, you could reconnect the
primary windings in series for 240V
operation.
If you are lucky, you may even find
that the internal wiring can be easily
changed or there may even be an internal switch.
Level meter
for cocktail bar
I have just completed building the
Loudspeaker Level Meter for Home
Theatre Systems from the April 2004
issue and I hope you could answer
some questions. I own a cocktail bar
with some noise issues. I need a means
to show the bands and DJs how loud
they are and a level not to go over. This
meter seems ideal, apart from being
too sensitive.
Could you tell me how to make it
read louder noises and how to give
it a greater range for the LEDs? (P. L.,
via email).
• If you want the level meter to respond to much louder sounds, you will
need to reduce the sensitivity of the
first op amp stage. The easiest way to
do this is to increase the 100W resistor
to 1kW or even 2.2kW. However, it will
still only read over a 20dB range.
If you need to monitor sound levels
over much wider ranges, the only practical way to is use a sound level meter.
These have more than 100dB of measurement range. In fact, you may have
a legal requirement (ie, WorkCover) to
avoid exceeding certain sound levels
and you may need a sound level meter
to show that you are able to monitor
and meet this requirement.
The sound level meter could perhaps be used to set the sensitivity of
High-Energy Ignition For A Honda Prelude
I have purchased a Universal
High Energy Ignition project, as
featured in the June 1998 issue of
SILICON CHIP. I have had it for a
while and had planned to install
it in my old car. However, I sold
my old car and have recently had
the ignition module in my new car
fail. It is a Honda Prelude and from
what I have found out, the signal
from the ECU is a 5V square wave.
Is there a way to adapt the High
Energy ignition for my application?
(D. W., via email).
• The High Energy Ignition can
be operated from a 5V signal if you
use the Hall Effect circuit without
including the 820W pullup resis106 Silicon Chip
tor. The 5V is connected to the
Hall Signal input on the PC board.
Ignore the Hall + and Hall GND
connections.
The voltage sense from the ECU
may be inverted so that the spark
occurs on a 5V to 0V transition, using a transistor. To do this, remove
the 10kW resistor connecting to
transistor Q2’s base and connect a
wire from the tachometer output at
the collector of transistor Q3 to the
base of Q2.
Note that the collector of Q3 and
the base of Q2 connect to adjacent
tracks on the PC board, so just
bridge these two tracks with a short
length of tinned copper wire.
the Loudspeaker Level Meter which
could then give an easy visual indication.
Sound level meters are available
from Altronics (Q-1264), Dick Smith
Electronics (Q-1362) and Jaycar Electronics (QM-1588).
The Earth’s magnetic
field & CRT alignment?
I recently signed up to do an on-line
course to obtain my amateur radio license. As part of this course, there is an
on-line forum that you are encouraged
to join where questions and answers
may be posted (a newsgroup).
Shortly after signing on, I read a
message from a chap who had moved
from England to Sydney and brought
his large, wide-screen Sony Trinitron
colour TV with him. This TV set now
has a colour registration problem.
The colours are all distorted (like you
held up an unshielded hifi speaker to
the side of the set). The fault is down
both the left and righthand sides of the
tube and it looks like it badly needs
degaussing. However the set’s internal
degauss circuit does not seem to be
able to correct the problem.
So I sent a post to this chap suggesting that I thought his problem may be
related to the Earth’s magnetic field. In
point form my post basically said:
(1) That being in the IT industry I
was aware that computer monitors are
aligned/manufactured for either the
southern or northern hemispheres.
(2) I had seen first-hand an entire
shipment of northern hemisphere colour monitors shipped to Australia by
mistake and that they all looked like
they badly needed degaussing.
(3) That while I had no first-hand
knowledge of TVs, that I assumed
that this problem would be inherent
to both monitors and TV sets as both
fundamentally use a CRT.
(4) That I suspected that his fault
may be a result of his TV being aligned
by the manufacturer to the northern
hemisphere’s magnetic field characsiliconchip.com.au
teristics and that the fix may actually involve realignment of the CRT.
I suggested that this was something
that should not be attempted by the
inexperienced, as the end result would
most certainly be worse than the current problem.
(5) That I thought the problem
was probably related to the reason
why magnetic navigation compasses
(mostly the flat orienteering types) also
were manufactured differently for the
northern and southern hemispheres;
ie, the pointer needle requires different counter balancing so that it rests
horizontal to the Earth’s surface and
does not try to either point skyward
or down into the Earth.
Within a short period of time, no less
than two full-call amateurs had posted
rebuttals to the Forum. One was from
one of the on-line facilitators for the
course I was now enrolled in who has
a degree in electronics and electrical
engineering. He summarised my entire
post as “Horse Excreta” and categorically stated that “no such manufacturing process exists” in reference to
my assertion that computer monitors
were made for either the northern or
southern hemispheres.
He was so emphatic and obviously
knew more about the Earth’s magnetic
field than I will ever know, that I am
now beginning to think that maybe
I’m a fool who has been taken in by
a popular urban myth. So what is the
truth to all this?
Are TV sets susceptible to the
Earth’s magnetic field at all, in that
the alignment of the CRT must counter
this field? Is the magnetic field in the
northern hemisphere somehow different in nature to that in the southern
hemisphere, thus requiring different
CRT alignments?
And even if this is all true, was it
reasonable to propose that the colour
registration problem in question might
be related to this effect? (S. A., via
email).
• You are absolutely correct and
your protagonists are utterly wrong.
Large CRTs for TV and computer
monitor use are set up for northern or
southern hemisphere use. Generally,
this is via a few small fixed magnets
on the yoke assembly. To change the
setup of a northern hemisphere set
for the southern hemisphere probably
requires the services of your local Sony
agent. However, the tube will also have
to be manually degaussed.
siliconchip.com.au
Ultra-LD Clipping Indicator Has Drawbacks
Referring to your Ultra-LD
Preamp & LED Display in the November 2001 issue of SILICON CHIP,
there is a question that comes to
mind. This unit is checking the
clipping points of IC1 and preceding equipment rather than that of
the power amplifier.
According to information I’ve
found on a website, Rod Elliott of
ESP (http://sound.westhost.com/
project23.htm) states that “most
clipping indicators published over
the years rely solely on an attenuated version of the output signal,
supplied to a suitable comparator
circuit. That would be fine if the
mains voltage stayed exactly the
same at all times and if the power
supply had perfect regulation. The
fact is neither of these is true and
the amplifier’s DC supply voltage can
vary considerably from hour to hour
and even minute by minute”.
The clipping detector shown on
the above website relies on one
factor (and again I quote): “how
close to the supply voltage is the
power amplifier’s output signal at
any instant in time. If and when the
supply voltage varies, the detector
varies along with it and will detect
even a very short peak that crosses
the detection threshold”. This unit
is connected across the power amplifier’s speaker terminals.
I would appreciate it if you
would enlighten me on this matter
with regard to your circuit. (G. K.,
Elizabeth, SA).
• It is true that most clipping indicators have a drawback because
the amplifier’s supply rails are not
regulated. The same drawback ap-
An excerpt from http://repairfaq.
ece.drexel.edu/sam/crtfaq.htm#crtnsh
(apparently from a Philips engineer)
adds further to the above:
“There are two types of adjustments:
(1). The passive ones that are done in
the picture tube factory; and
(2). The active ones that are done by
the set maker and/or the customer.
In the factory, inside the neck of
every (Philips) tube, a metal ring is
permanently magnetised to create a
plies to the clipping indicator in
the Ultra-LD circuit – it is not a
precision circuit and it only gives
an approximate indication that
clipping is probably occurring if
the topmost LED is alight.
Some clipping circuits (eg, page
72, November 2003 issue and the
one on Rod Elliott’s website) assume
that if the signal rises to within 5V
or so of the positive or negative
amplifier supply rail, the output
transistors must be saturated and
therefore clipping is occurring.
However, it is still only an approximation. In fact, Rod Elliott’s circuit
assumes that if the signal comes
within 3V of the supply rails, clipping is occurring.
In most amplifiers with Mosfet
or emitter follower output stages
(virtually all modern amplifiers),
that would be fairly severe clipping since the output transistors are
typically saturated with a collectoremitter voltage of 6V or more. This
is usually a limitation in the driver
stages rather than in the emitter
follower output stage. We tried to
eliminate some of this drawback
by running high-voltage rails to
the driver stages of the Ultra-LD
amplifier.
If you really want to produce an
exact clipping circuit, you need to
precisely compare the input and
output signals of the amplifier, so
that even a small degree of clipping
can be detected. In practice though,
small degrees of clipping are very
difficult to hear on music signals
and so most clipping indicator
circuits are quite adequate in this
respect.
multi-pole correction field. Then each
tube is matched with a deflection yoke
to achieve optimum colour purity. It is
possible that a couple of yokes must
be tried in succession.
This matching is done under specific ambient magnetic field conditions. On oriental tubes, you will often
see little permanent magnets added
to achieve further fine correction of
landing and/or convergence. When the
tube is within landing specification, it
is shipped to the set maker.
October 2005 107
Cooked SC480 Amplifier Modules
I have constructed two SC480 amplifier modules with TO-3 output
transistors (SILICON CHIP, January &
February 2003). One has burnt out
the resistor between the base of Q9
and trimpot VR1. The resistor at the
emitter side of Q6 has also gone.
The other amplifier module is getting 80+ volts across the 6.8W resistor and will not allow the quiescent
current to be adjusted. Transistors
Q4, Q5 and Q6 are getting very hot. I
have only been doing electronics for
four months and would appreciate
all the help you can give me. (R. J.,
via email).
• You need to check both your
Depending on the sophistication
of the circuitry in the (television or
monitor) set, the set maker can adjust
geometry and sometimes convergence
(if there is a set of convergence coils
present). If there is a rotation coil
present, then this may also improve
the landing a bit.
In “digital monitors”, there are flexible waveform generators to adjust
the corrections. There may be further
adjustments possible for the uniformity of the colour point and brightness.
This gives a place-dependent modulation of the three beam currents; it does
nothing to improve the landing.
The most expensive monitors
(large screen, fine phosphor pitch,
very critical on landing) may have
active magnetic field compensation
in all three directions, with electronic
magnetic field sensors for automatic
adjustment.
amplifier boards very carefully to
see that you have correctly installed
all the transistors and diodes.
In the case of your first amplifier
module, it seems possible that you
may have inadvertently swapped
Q8 & Q9 – this may have damaged
both these and other transistors.
You won’t know until you reassemble the module and re-check
the voltages with the 560W currentlimiting resistors.
On the second board, with Q4, Q5
& Q6 overheating, it seems likely
that you have inserted diode D3
the wrong way around. Again, the
transistors may have been damaged.
These monitors should be mostly
insensitive to the Earth’s magnetic
field. (This technology was originally
invented for the use of CRT displays
onboard jet fighter planes, which tend
to turn relative to the earth).
All other monitors will degrade
picture quality when the degaussing
is not able to completely compensate
for the Earth’s magnetic field. With a
tube built for the wrong hemisphere, it
is possible that the effect of the vertical component of the Earth’s magnetic
field will give a residual landing error.
This cannot be corrected by turning
any of the available adjustments, digital or not. Re-alignment might become
a very costly job.”
Nail finder for
woodworkers
In Ask SILICON CHIP for August, you
Notes & Errata
Automatic Alternate Motor
Switch (Circuit Notebook), September 2005: the pole of switch
S1a should connect to +12V via
the contacts of the time clock, not
to +5V as shown.
Filter For Ripple Control Mains
Tones, Circuit Notebook, September 2005: WARNING: Do not use
this circuit. Due to a major oversight, this circuit was not tested at
240VAC which would have highlighted the following drawback.
Regardless of the values of
the capacitors selected for the
circuit, their reactance will be
quite low, resulting in the application of high voltage to the 2W
potentiometer which will fail at
switch-on.
replied to an inquiry about making a
metal detector for use in woodworking, saying that some detectors
meant for studs (and metal) could do
the job.
I agree and have several such detectors but the they require a lot of
tedious close scanning. Could you
point him to Carba-Tec NSW Pty Ltd,
113 Station Road, Auburn, NSW 2144.
Phone 1800 683 583 and ask for Cat.
MMD2 and get a dedicated detector
for $49.00. That’s only $19 more than
the $30 for the stud one. He could not
build it for that!
No, I do not belong to the firm but
I have bought a lot of stuff from them
and they are very good. (J. W., via
SC
email).
WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage.
All such projects should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely.
Readers are warned that high voltage wiring should be carried out according to the instructions in the articles.
When working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do not accidentally come into contact with
mains AC voltages or high voltage DC. If you are not confident about working with projects employing mains voltages
or other high voltages, you are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd disclaims any
liability for damages should anyone be killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue
of SILICON CHIP magazine. Devices or circuits described in SILICON CHIP may be covered by patents. SILICON
CHIP disclaims any liability for the infringement of such patents by the manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also disclaims any liability for projects which are used in such a way as to infringe relevant
government regulations and by-laws.
Advertisers are warned that they are responsible for the content of all advertisements and that they must conform to the Trade Practices Act 1974 or as subsequently amended and to any governmental regulations which are
applicable.
108 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
MARKET CENTRE
Cash in your surplus gear. Advertise it here in Silicon Chip.
CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING RATES
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words plus 66 cents for each additional word. Display ads: $36.00 (incl. GST) per
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To run your classified ad, print it clearly in the space below or on a separate sheet
of paper, fill out the form & send it with your cheque or credit card details to: Silicon
Chip Classifieds, PO Box 139, Collaroy, NSW 2097. Alternatively, fax the details
to (02) 9979 6503 or send an email to silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au
Taxation Invoice ABN 49 003 205 490
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siliconchip.com.au
FOR SALE
MORE CONTROL SOLUTIONS for you:
Netiom Link – automatically transfer
digital inputs and outputs between two
cards over an Ethernet link
Labjack USB Data Acquisition
Module features 8 12-bit analog inputs,
20 digital I/O, 2 analog outputs and
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DaqFactory Express, Labview driver
and ActiveX component.
Signal Conditioners non isolated
and isolated – convert thermocouples,
RTDs to 4-20mA or 0-10V. Fully
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Pixel Programmable Controller with
4 analog inputs, 8 digital inputs and
8 relay outputs. Uses a Picaxe 28X.
Programmed in BASIC.
Temperature and humidity sensors
N1500 universal process indicator.
Budget-priced displays thermocouple,
RTD, 4-20mA and 0-5V readings. Fully
programmable.
Box of Connectors – choose BNC,
UHF, N Type or RS232 gender changers
and converters together.
Serial and Parallel port relay controller
cards.
Pump and Trip Alarm Controller card.
Duty-Standby operation.
MicroProgrammers for Atmel and PIC
chips.
2, 4 & 8 Relay Cards suitable for TTL
and Open Collector Outputs
DC, Stepper and Servo Motor controller
kits.
Switch-Mode, Battery Chargers and
DC-DC converters.
Full details and credit card ordering available at www.oceancontrols.com.au.
Helping to put you in control.
SILICON CHIP BINDERS. First edition
to end 2005. Offers to (07) 3201 4976
incl packaging and freight.
RCS RADIO/DESIGN is at 41 Arlewis
St, Chester Hill 2162, NSW Australia
and has all the published PC boards
from SC, EA, ETI, HE, AEM & others.
Ph (02) 9738 0330. sales<at>rcsradio.
com.au, www.rcsradio.com.au
October 2005 109
New New New
Mark22-SM
Slimline Mini FM R/C Receiver
•
•
•
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6 Channels
10kHz frequency separation
Size: 55 x 23 x 20mm
Weight: 25gm
Modular Construction
Price: $A129.50 with crystal
Electronics
PO Box 580, Riverwood, NSW 2210.
Ph/Fax (02) 9533 3517
email: youngbob<at>silvertone.com.au
Website: www.silvertone.com.au
Satellite TV Reception
International satellite
TV reception in your
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Send for your free info
pack containing equipment catalog, satellite
lists, etc or call for appointment to view.
We can display all satellites from 76.5°
to 180°.
AV-COMM P/L, 24/9 Powells Rd,
Brookvale, NSW 2100.
Tel: 02 9939 4377 or 9939 4378.
Fax: 9939 4376; www.avcomm.com.au
TAIG MACHINERY
Micro Mini Lathes and Mills
From $489.00
Stepper motors: 200 oz in $89.00, 330 oz in $110.00
Digital verniers: 150mm $55.00, 200mm $65.00
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(02) 6281 5660
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0412269707
ELNEC IC PROGRAMMERS
Universal and
specialised models
High quality
Realistic prices
Large range of adaptors
Free regular software updates
Windows 95/98/Me/NT/2k/XP
GRANTRONICS PTY LTD
PO Box 275, Wentworthville. 2145.
Ph: 02 9896 7150
www.grantronics.com.au
Foam surrounds,voice coils,cones and more
Original parts for Dynaudio,Tannoy and others
Expert speaker repairs – 20 years experience
Australian agents for
products
Trade welcome – email for your user ID
Phone (03) 9647 7000
speakerbits.com.au
USB KITS: GPIB Interface, Thermostat
Tester, LCD Module Interface, Stepper Motor Controller, PIO Interface,
DTMF Transceiver, Thermometer, DDS
HF Generator, Compass, 4 Channel
NOW
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FROM
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Receivers and USB ActiveX (and USBDOS.exe file) to control our kits from
your own application. www.ar.com.
au/~softmark
WEATHER STATIONS: windspeed &
direction, inside temperature, outside
temperature & windchill. Records highs
& lows with time and date as they occur.
Optional rainfall and PC interface. Used
by government departments, farmers,
pilots and weather enthusiasts. Other
models with barometric pressure, humidity, dew point, solar radiation, UV,
leaf wetness, etc. Just phone, fax or write
for our FREE catalog and price list. Eco
Watch phone: (03) 9761 7040; fax: (03)
9761 7050; Unit 5, 17 Southfork Drive,
Kilsyth, Vic. 3137. ABN 63 006 399 480.
www.siliconchip.com.au
Project Reprints
Limited Back Issues
Limited One-Shots
If you’re looking for a project from ELECTRONICS AUSTRALIA, you’ll find it at SILICON CHIP! We
can now offer reprints of all projects which have appeared in Electronics Australia, EAT, Electronics Today, ETI or Radio, TV & Hobbies. First search the EA website indexes for the project you want
and then call, fax or email us with the details and your credit card details. Reprint cost is $8.80 per
article (ie, 2-part projects cost $17.60). SILICON CHIP subscribers receive a 10% discount.
We also have limited numbers of EA back issues and special publications. Call for details!
visit www.siliconchip.com.au or www.electronicsaustralia.com.au
110 Silicon Chip
SUPERBRIGHT LEDS from just 15
cents each, including new wide angle
range! 12 volt LED lightbars, great for
solar/camping. Nixie tubes and nixie
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more items being added. New webshop
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S-Video . . . Video . . . Audio . . . VGA
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Do You Eat, Breathe and Sleep TECHNOLOGY?
Opportunities for full-time and part-time positions all over Australia & New Zealand
Jaycar Electronics is a rapidly growing, Australian
owned, international retailer with more than 39 stores in
Australia and New Zealand. Our aggressive expansion
programme has resulted in the need for dedicated
individuals to join our team to assist us in achieving our
goals.
We pride ourselves on the technical knowledge of our
staff. Do you think that the following statements describe
you? Please put a tick in the boxes that do:
Knowledge of electronics, particularly at component level.
Assemble projects or kits yourself for car, computer, audio, etc.
Have empathy with others who have the same interest as you.
May have worked in some retail already (not obligatory).
Have energy, enthusiasm and a personality that enjoys
helping people.
Appreciates an opportunity for future advancement.
Have an eye for detail.
Why not do something you love and get paid for it? Please
write or email us with your details, along with your C.V.
and any qualifications you may have. We pay a
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benefits like a liberal staff purchase policy.
Advertising Index
555 Electronics.............................52
Amateur Scientist CD ..............OBC
Altronics................................. 72-75
Send to:
Retail Operations Manager - Jaycar Electronics Pty Ltd
P.O. Box 6424 Silverwater NSW 1811
Email: jobs<at>jaycar.com.au
Aspen Amplifiers........................111
Jaycar Electronics is an equal opportunity employer and
actively promotes staff from within the organisation.
Av-Comm...................................110
Delta Audio.....................................7
Dick Smith Electronics........... 16-21
Dominion Electronics............93,111
Eco Watch..................................110
Select your microcontroller kit
and get started...
Fax a copy of
From
$295*
Best high end DIY audio kits
on the planet!
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PCBs MADE, ONE OR MANY. Any
format, hobbyists welcome. Sesame
Electronics Phone (02) 9593 1025.
sesame<at>sesame.com.au
www.sesame.com.au
Elexol...........................................49
Furzy Electronics........................110
Grantronics.................................110
Harbuch Electronics.....................83
RCM3400
& price list: www.questronix.com.au
ImageCraft C Compilers: 32-bit
Windows IDE and compiler. For AVR,
68HC08, 68HC11, 68HC12, 68HC16.
from $330.00
Atmel Flash CPU Programmer: Handles the 89Cx051, 89C5x, 89Sxx in
both DIP and PLCC44 and some AVR’s,
most 8-pin EEPROMS. Includes socket
for serial ISP cable. $220, $11 p&p.
SOIC adaptors: 20 pin $132.00, 14 pin
$126.50, 8 pin $121.00.
Full details on web-site. Credit cards
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EFIL..............................................51
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Instant PCBs..............................110
• Prices exclude GST and delivery charges.
Jaycar .......IFC, 53-60,84,96,97,111
Tel: + 61 2 9906 6988
Fax: + 61 2 9906 7145
JED Microprocessors................5,85
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4007
Laservision...................................49
Microgram Computers....................3
WANTED
MicroZed Computers....................79
ANYONE INTERESTED in electronics
who wants to get together, and share
ideas, knowledge and maybe work
on joint projects call Wayne Bridgman
(03) 9882 6176, waynebridgman<at>
gmail.com
Ocean Controls..........................109
Ozitronics.......................................7
Prime Electronics.........................85
Quest Electronics..................85,110
Radiometrix..................................25
RCS Radio.................................110
KIT ASSEMBLY
RF Probes......................................7
NEVILLE WALKER KIT ASSEMBLY
& REPAIR:
• Australia wide service
• Small production runs
• Specialist “one-off” applications
Phone Neville Walker (07) 3857 2752
Email: flashdog<at>optusnet.com.au
SC Perf Elect. For Cars.......112,IBC
SC Projects For Cars, Vol.2..........25
Silicon Chip Binders.........49,52,111
Silicon Chip Bookshop........... 98-99
Silicon Chip Subscriptions...........37
Silvertone Electronics................110
Silicon Chip Binders
H Heavy board covers with mottled dark green
vinyl covering H Each binder holds up to 12
issues H SILICON CHIP logo printed on spine
& cover.
Price: $A12.95 plus $A7 per order (Australia
only; not available elsewhere). Buy five and get
them postage free.
Just fill in & mail the handy order form in this
issue; or fax (02) 9979 6503; or ring (02) 9979
5644 & quote your credit card number.
siliconchip.com.au
REAL
VALUE
AT
Siomar Batteries..........................51
P
Taig Machinery...........................110
$12.95
PLUS P
&
Speakerbits................................110
Telelink.........................................85
____________________________
PC Boards
Printed circuit boards for SILICON
CHIP projects are made by:
RCS Radio Pty Ltd. Phone (02) 9738
0330. Fax (02) 9738 0334.
October 2005 111
From the publishers of
The Lat
SILICON
s
t
n
e
t
n
o
C
UND
TECH BACKGRO
Intelligent
turbo timer
I SBN 095852294 - 4
TURBO BOOST
& nitrous fuel controllers
9 780958 522946
$19.80 (inc GST) NZ $22.00 (inc GST)
How engine
management works
We’ll let the
contents speak
for themselves:
Not a reprint – new projects and articles not
published before
Learn how engine management works
Build projects to control nitrous, fuel injection
and turbo boost systems
Switch devices on and off on the basis of signal
frequency, temperature and voltage
Build test instruments to check fuel injector
duty cycle, fuel mixture and brake and coolant
temperatures
P L U S L O T S MORE
112 Silicon Chip
t
Managemen
ng Engine stems work
di
an
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R 1: Und
engine sy
6 CHAPTEhandle on how the various
Getting a
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INSTRUMENTS
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ONTROLLERS
MODIFIERS & C
Controller
LCD Hand
– p.105
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R 22: Nitrouinjector for the nitrous fu
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149
control an ex
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– p.134
Use it to
fan speeds
vary pump or
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Meter – p.42
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R 23: Intelliengine idle-down time to m
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Capacitor
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ENDUM
160 ADD
Codes
om Jaycar
The Kits
available fr
aland. See
Ze
Where To Buyoject described in this Abousoktralariae an
ew
dN
ery pr
l over
details.
Kits for ev
d dealers al
for further
s stores an
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ba
e
id
Electronic
ts
ou
front and
the inside
p.50
cle Meter –
or Duty Cy
Fuel Inject
om.au
siliconchip.c
Turbo
Intelligent
4
Timer – p.15
om.au
siliconchip.c
Order direct from SILICON CHIP Publications
Price: Aust. $A22.50 (inc. GST & p&p); Overseas $A26.00 (inc. p&p via airmail). Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd,
PO Box 139 Collaroy, NSW, Australia 2097. Phone (02) 9939 3295; Fax (02) 9939 2649. Email silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
October 2005 113
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