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SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
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Contents
www.siliconchip.com.au
Vol.18, No.9; September 2005
FEATURES
8 Adaptive Cruise Control
Smart cruise controls are on the way. This new unit uses radar
to maintain a safe distance to the car in front, even if its speed
changes – by Julian Edgar
Build your Own
Seismograph – Page 26.
22 Review: iBurst Mobile Broadband
Want broadband internet on the go? iBurst works at up to 100km/h,
provided you’re in the right area – by Ross Tester
66 Getting The Most From Your Digital Camera Card
Hints and tips from the people who invented them
88 PICAXE In Schools, Pt.4
Making things move . . . controlling motors, solenoids and even R/C servos –
by Clive Seager
PROJECTS TO BUILD
Bilge Sniffer – Page 36.
26 Build Your Own Seismograph
A horizontal pendulum detects the earthquake waves, a PICAXE-based circuit
crunches the data and a PC displays the results – by Dave Dobeson
36 Bilge Sniffer
Minimise the risk of boating explosions with this easy-to-build circuit. It detects
all sorts of hydrocarbon fumes and can automatically turn on bilge exhaust
fans when fuel vapours are detected – by John Clarke
68 VoIP Analog Phone Adaptor
A $20 project that mates with your sound card and lets you use any old phone
for voice over internet to save a fortune on phone calls – by Ross Tester
76 The Mudlark A205 Valve Stereo Amplifier, Pt.2
Second article has the full construction and performance details for this
innovative design – by David Whitby
VoIP Phone
Adaptor – Page 68.
SPECIAL COLUMNS
42 Circuit Notebook
(1) Antenna Input & Audio Line-Out Adaptor For Portable Radios; (2) Automatic Alternate Motor Switch; (3) Filter For “Ripple Control” Mains Tones;
(4) PICAXE RGB LED Display; (5) Morse Code Practice Oscillator
48 Serviceman’s Log
Oh, Goodie . . . a VCR to fix! – by the TV Serviceman
94 Salvage It!
Scrounging & using shortwave radios – by Julian Edgar
100 Vintage Radio
The Sprague 500 multi-band receiver – by Rodney Champness
DEPARTMENTS
2
4
61
62
Publisher’s Letter
Mailbag
Order Form
Product Showcase
siliconchip.com.au
105
107
109
111
Ask Silicon Chip
Notes & Errata
Market Centre
Ad Index
Building The
Mudlark A205 Valve
Amplifier – Page 76.
ON THE COVER: the background is
the aftermath of the famous 1906 San
Francisco earthquake. It would have
easily been detected in Australia using
our do-it-yourself seismograph.
September 2005 1
SILICON
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Publisher & Editor-in-Chief
Leo Simpson, B.Bus., FAICD
Production Manager
Greg Swain, B.Sc.(Hons.)
Technical Editor
Peter Smith
Technical Staff
John Clarke, B.E.(Elec.)
Ross Tester
Jim Rowe, B.A., B.Sc, VK2ZLO
Reader Services
Ann Jenkinson
Advertising Enquiries
Lawrence Smith
Benedictus Smith Pty Ltd
Phone (02) 9211 8035
Fax: (02) 9211 0068
lawrence<at>benedictus-smith.com
Regular Contributors
Brendan Akhurst
Rodney Champness, VK3UG
Julian Edgar, Dip.T.(Sec.), B.Ed,
Grad.Dip.Jnl
Mike Sheriff, B.Sc, VK2YFK
Stan Swan
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a year by Silicon Chip Publications
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2 Silicon Chip
Publisher’s Letter
Do-it-yourself seismograph
a great project for schools
This month, we are very pleased to present
Dave Dobeson’s Seismograph project, starting
on page 26. It is an ideal project for schools,
for a number of reasons. First, it is very simple
mechanically and uses a minimum of electronics to interface it to a computer (via a PICAXE)
or to a data-logger.
The data-logger interface is ideal because
many schools do have data-loggers, often sitting
idle for want of an interesting application. Well,
here is one. I can imagine this seismograph built up as a class project, set
up in a glass display case and permanently linked to a PC.
Every morning, the students could come in, check for any seismic activity and then check the internet for the latest earthquakes around the world.
Provided the earthquakes are magnitude 6 or bigger on the Richter scale,
this simple instrument has a reasonable chance of recording them. They
will then be able to analyse and discuss why the seismograph has recorded
them or why not.
If the students are into programming, perhaps they could set up the
monitoring computer to send an email when an interesting signal has been
recorded or maybe they could have a school web page devoted to its latest
recording. I am sure that students, and their teachers, will think of other
interesting possibilities.
This is a wonderful opportunity for schools to interest their students in
the scientific recording of day to day events. Not only will they gain some
knowledge of pendulums and simple harmonic motion, they will learn about
movements in the Earth’s crust and how earthquake waves propagate around
the globe, so that earthquakes occurring on the other side of the world can
be recorded in a classroom in Australia.
Such students may go on to build other seismographs in order to be able
to sense the different types of earthquake waves and those propagating from
different directions.
Importantly, learning about earthquakes will also give students an awareness of tsunamis, how they can occur and what the dangers are. If they
are at some time in the future caught in area when a tsunami occurs, such
knowledge could save many lives.
And having become accustomed to the concept of data-logging, students
could also move on to the regular recording of all sorts of regular events,
whether it be meteorology, electricity and water consumption or whatever.
Ultimately, this could give a very good understanding of many scientific
concepts and that can be no bad thing. The more people understand the
extreme complexities of our environment and how modern technology
interacts with it, the better off we will be.
Dave Dobeson is to be congratulated for his work in fostering science with
his seismograph design. There are probably many more science teachers
out there doing equally interesting things with their students. We would be
delighted to hear from them and to promote their projects in the same way,
through the pages of SILICON CHIP.
Leo Simpson
siliconchip.com.au
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MAILBAG
Solution to interference
with STBs
I am writing about Robert Parnell’s
letter concerning electrical interference to his digital set-top box, in the
July 2005 issue. I solved my electrical
interference problems as follows.
The glitching on my reception was
quite intolerable (every few seconds),
so rather than go back to analog I
sought a solution – which maybe I
have. I have heard a number of stories of people in my area who are not
using their STB because of electrical
interference. This issue of electrical
interference is rapidly becoming a
major factor impeding digital uptake
in Australia.
I put an earth stake in the ground
and connected it to the antenna system signal ground, just before the
distribution amplifier. It made a huge
improvement and I do not have quadshield coax!
One possible explanation for the
improvement is that cleaning out
the LF garbage in the coax braid has
removed spikes that were sufficient in
amplitude to drive the tuner front-end
into non-linear overload.
If there is any part of the VHF spectrum that you can filter, then do this.
I fitted a -50dB VHF filter (Kingray
DPO-UV diplexer) and this made a
difference but I am lucky because all
my stations are UHF-only.
The best general alternative is a
triplexer (Kingray FL3BPMH) that
can be used to filter out all non-TV
frequencies and any unused TV bands.
Electrical trade wholesalers such as
Lawrence and Hanson, Middendorps,
Active Electronics, etc sell 1.8m copper-plated earth stakes for about $20. I
located mine in the wettest part of the
garden, minding any underground gas
pipes, etc. This was a shade-clothed
fernery with a built-in mist-spray watering system and it also happened to
be close to where the TV distribution
amplifier is located. I also purchased
6m of some very heavy mains (greenyellow) wire – the copper was about
5mm diameter.
I soldered the wire and clamp that
4 Silicon Chip
comes with the stake and soldered
the other end to the shield/braid at
a splitter just before the distribution
amplifier. Leave out the soldering if
that is too hard but it does help reduce
the earth path impedance.
This arrangement almost completely eliminated audio/video drop-outs,
pixellation and “no signal” indications
on my digital tuner.
I would not recommend using the
mains earth for the antenna as this
is very “dirty” and makes matters
worse.
Those people with STBs that run
extremely hot might also benefit from
my clean earth idea as the problem is
eliminated if you don’t have isolated
TV outlets. Before I earthed my antenna it “measured” 2000V! This is
fairly common, not usually dangerous and is caused by leaky TV sets
but it does cause tuner modules to
run very hot.
Neil (via email).
Interference not the only
problem with STBs
I read with interest the email about
the digital set top box in the July 2005
edition, from Robert Parnell. Having
investigated digital reception myself,
and speaking to many people on the
subject, I agree that the analog system
is unlikely to be shut down any time
soon, if ever. I believe, however, that
one of the major reasons for people
not switching to digital is being overlooked, that being network programming.
Many people I know (including
myself) are watching a fraction of the
television that they used to. In fact,
most of the time now the television set
is off, unless I’m watching a DVD. The
vast majority of what the networks try
to pass off as entertainment is absolute
garbage and if you have no interest in
football or cricket (a significant number of people don’t, despite what the
networks think), there is not much
reason to turn it on.
With these points in mind, why
would any one bother spending money
on a digital set-up? Nobody needs to
see garbage in high-definition, along
with channel logos and banners.
Television stations have become, like
most companies, only interested in
pleasing shareholders.
The government will have a hard
time getting enough people over to
digital, until the networks are made
to lift their game. I would not hold my
breath though.
Tony Joyce,
via email.
Photocopying is a
cost issue in schools
Leo Simpson is totally correct when
he registers his concern (June 2005)
about the rampant photocopying that
takes in a whole variety of industries.
In schools, one core reason for this
practice is the fact that good quality
texts for the teaching of electronics to
teenagers are difficult to find and some
of them are ridiculously expensive, or
aimed at the juvenile level (one UK
book I am considering for my classes
is priced at $A149!).
There are heaps of electronics
training manuals and more senior
texts available but they don’t “talk”
to teenagers. Teachers are thus forced
to compile piecemeal workbook and
copy masters for classroom use, adding
their own teacher-speak to explain the
engineering concepts in novice terms.
Everybody involved in the electronics
teaching industry is absolutely flat-out
just teaching and can’t find the quality
time required to write and publish a
good affordable text for teenagers.
There are some tactics SILICON CHIP
could try, apart from justifiably hammering the copyright authorities. For
example, I want 25 copies of the excelsiliconchip.com.au
lent current series on PICs in schools.
I really can’t afford to buy 25 sets of
the whole series to do this. It would
cost hundreds of dollars to do so and
I would just be covering PICs. Perhaps
SILICON CHIP could collate them and
sell them as a series package and I’d
gladly buy a class set.
Another tactic would be to include
photocopying authorisations for individual schools so that teachers who felt
professionally accountable could pay
a yearly fee for photocopying rights.
I’d certainly be quite happy to pay a
fee of $30 or so for this service.
Whatever happens, SILICON CHIP
needs the support of all educators in
this regard if it is to remain the world
class magazine that it is. Don’t photocopy SILICON CHIP! Simple!
Dave Kennedy,
Collaroy, NSW.
Welcome to a
SILICON CHIP convert
I must have been in another world
to have missed SILICON CHIP until now.
I dragged wartime copies (WWII) of
“Radio and Hobbies” out of the cellar
at the Scout Hall when I was “cub”.
It was still “Radio and Hobbies” when
I used to borrow it from the boy next
door and when I started to buy my
own, it was “Radio TV and Hobbies”.
I absorbed the change to “Electronics
Australia” and later on, on the Council
of IREE, I worked with such luminaries as Neville Williams and Neville
Thiele.
I had never been a very regular
subscriber to “EA” or its predecessors, almost always buying it from the
newsagent on a regular basis. Then I
began to miss it but try as I might, I
couldn’t find a replacement. Recently
I have been conserving a 1930s radio
chassis and my net search for bits led
me to an email address for a previous
“EA” staffer. Next step: SILICON CHIP!
Now I am a subscriber and I have
just got my first issue. I feel like I am
back home! It’s a wonderful feeling.
It is interesting to note that I had
picked up SILICON CHIP editions twice
at the newsagent but thought “Naah!”
It was the list of topics on the website
that showed me that SILICON CHIP is
what I have been looking for and now
I am back in familiar territory. Thanks
– it’s a great magazine.
siliconchip.com.au
Ross Tester’s July article on “WiFi”,
particularly his comments on page
12 about possible illegality of sharing
communications with the “NDN”,
brought back some interesting memories. I couldn’t help but think how
legislators, once having forbidden
something, are reluctant to relinquish
control. Ross probably does not remember the “Wireless License” every
house had to have.
My mother used to freak out if the
“wireless licence” was a day overdue.
It was a hurried walk to the Post Office
to buy a new one. Inspectors could
knock on your door at any time, and
they did, to check that you were not listening to an unlicensed radio. Can you
imagine it? So an extension speaker
across the fence to let the “poor old
dear next door” keep a check on the
fate of her son away “at the war” was
a breach of your licence and a loss of
revenue.
All that has gone, and good riddance. But I suspect that only the
licence requirement was revoked, with
the “sharing with a neighbour” part
of the Act left untouched. Ahh! – the
seduction of legislative power.
Max Williams,
Ringwood, Vic.
Atmel’s AVR, from
JED in Australia
JED has designed a range of
single board computers and
modules as a way of using the
AVR without SMT board design
The AVR570 module (above) is a way of
using an ATmega128 CPU on a user base
board without having to lay out the intricate,
surface-mounted surrounds of the CPU, and
then having to manufacture your board on
an SMT robot line. Instead you simply layout
a square for four 0.1” spaced socket strips
and plug in our pre-tested module. The
module has the crystal, resetter, AVR-ISP
programming header (and an optional JTAG
ICE pad), as well as programming signal
switching. For a little extra, we load a DS1305
RTC, crystal and Li battery underneath,
which uses SPI and port G.
See JED’s www site for a datasheet.
AVR573 Single Board Computer
Using a Train Detector with
Command Control
Could I suggest that R.S. of Bundaberg (Ask SILICON CHIP, July 2005) have
a look at the Level Crossing Detector
from the March 1994 issue of SILICON
CHIP?
Assuming that he only wants to
know where a train is, this circuit
could be used by placing the Hall Effect sensors so that the exit from one
section is the start of the next. Then
use suitable LEDs on the track circuit
board which will light and go out as
the train proceeds around the track.
The only problem I have with this
setup is the magnet attached to the
underside of the wagons (see page 43,
March 1994 issue). If you use magnetic
decoupling with magnets between the
rails, trains come to a sudden halt at
times and wagons can derail when the
two magnets come together.
I use miniature glass magnetic reed
switches (Jaycar SM-1002) set between
tracks at just below rail level and
ferrite magnets (Jaycar LM-1616) cut
This board uses the AVR570 module and
adds 20 An./Dig. inputs, 12 FET outputs, LCD/
Kbd, 2xRS232, 1xRS485, 1-Wire, power reg.
etc. See www.jedmicro.com.au/avr.htm
$330 PC-PROM Programmer
This programmer plugs into a PC printer
port and reads, writes and edits any 28 or
32-pin PROM. Comes with plug-pack, cable
and software.
Also available is a multi-PROM UV eraser
with timer, and a 32/32 PLCC converter.
JED Microprocessors Pty Ltd
173 Boronia Rd, Boronia, Victoria, 3155
Ph. 03 9762 3588, Fax 03 9762 5499
www.jedmicro.com.au
September 2005 5
Mailbag: continued
in halves and suitably fixed on edge
under the wagon.
I am sure the Hall Effect pickups
could be easily changed to reed
switches.
N. J. Guy,
Cohuna, Vic.
Coolmaster circuit
not energy-efficient
I am the author of the “ultra-efficient
fridge” article in Jan/March “Renew”
magazine, issue 90.
I got your SILICON CHIP magazine
and read about your “Coolmaster”
freezer thermostat kit. Perhaps you
and your readers may be interested in
its shortcomings.
(1). The “Triac” part (that switches
240V to the freezer compressor) consumes at least 0.85W for 24 hours; ie,
about 20 watt-hours per day when
the fridge becomes connected to its
socket.
(2). The “plugpack” that you suggest
using to power the 9V electronics, if
carefully chosen, will consume about
1.7W for 24 hours; ie, about 40 watthours a day.
Hence, the power consumption of
your thermostat alone (with fridge
connected but not working) is about
60Wh a day. Now, you may remember
that the entire fully working fridge
with my thermostat consumes only
about 100Wh a day. Can you see how
mediocre your thermostat really is?
It seems that you have never been
exposed to living with limited energy
resources. You haven’t even noticed
the challenge of zero-standby power
consumption.
The thermostat that I currently use
for my fridge has zero standby 240V
power consumption, essential for
power-sensing inverters and people
who can use every bit of saved energy
that they generate.
It consumes about 70mA from a
NiMh battery to monitor the fridge
temperature and has a built-in fast
battery charger that tops up the battery when the compressor is turned on
(about two minutes per hour), so that
the entire system can work for many
years on one battery.
Please let me know if you are inter6 Silicon Chip
ested to publish, test or improve my
version of the thermostat.
Dr Tom Chalko,
Senior Scientist,
Scientific Engineering Research
Pty Ltd, Mt Best, Vic.
Comment: it is true that the Triac does
dissipate about a watt but only when it
is turned on and since it is in series with
the fridge, it does not add anything
to the overall power drain.
As far as the plugpack is concerned,
it does draw power constantly as you
say but our approach was intended
to enable readers to easily convert a
fridge without having to modify its
internal wiring. As such, it can be
changed back to normal operation at
any time.
Our circuit was designed in the
knowledge that many people have
unused refrigerators or freezers and
these can be converted, to wine-coolers
or fridges respectively, as outlined in
the article.
It was not intended to be ultra-efficient as your approach undoubtedly is,
although our approach does substantially reduce the power consumption
of any fridge.
Odd Panasonic
S-video behaviour
We recently sold a popular infrared
remote-controlled AV switcher to a
customer at Glen Innes for the purpose
of switching audio and S-video from
his DVD player, digital STB and satellite STB, to his Panasonic TX-68P100Z
which is a large flat-screen model
about four or five years old.
All these sources worked just fine
with the Panasonic on an individual
basis but with the switcher in circuit
the customer reported that the set
would automatically switch to 16:9
format and stubbornly refused to stay
put at 4:3.
I tested a sample switcher before
offering them for sale and am aware
of a DC offset on all the video outputs
(composite, luma and chroma) of about
0.5V across a 75W load. It seemed to
me that this DC offset might be the culprit but why? I made a little box with
two S-video connectors and isolating
capacitors (470mF non-polarised) in
series with the luma and chroma and
sent it off.
It didn’t work as expected though.
The format switching stayed at 4:3
but the picture was now unwatchable, with gross distortion and oversaturated colour. How bizarre!
I contacted Panasonic at Belrose and
a few emails flashed back and forth to
an engineer there. Apparently, the set
has an automatic format switching feature which is controlled by a DC offset
on the chroma signal. I was unable to
extract any specific information about
this feature which Panasonic refer to
as “S2 switching” and I was also unable to find out if there are any other
features controlled in a similar manner (are there S1/S3/Sx?), the voltage
levels, pulse widths, etc.
Perhaps the Panasonic service manual has some details (who knows?) but
I was not inclined to spend the money
to find out. I think that Panasonic
could make such information readily
available. We technical types need to
know about “features” like this. The
engineer did reveal that they requested
the feature, apparently popular in
Europe, be disabled in Australian sets
but the cost for modified versions was
too great.
Anyway, I retrieved the box from
Glen Innes, connected the Y (luma)
signal straight through, put a 100nF
MKT capacitor in series with the C
(chroma) signal and sent it back to our
customer who reported a success! This
was because, as you would know, the
chroma is a symmetrical AC signal at
4.43MHz (or 3.58MHz for NTSC), so
the average DC level is 0V but what
about the luma?
What about AC-coupled outputs?
Why did the Panasonic set totally lose
control of AC-coupled video? Surely
they clamp the luma. Do they use
the luma for any tricky controlling?
I dunno!
The problem is this: I see DC offsets on the outputs of a lot of recent
equipment from Asia. I guess they are
unaware of this S2 switching feature
too. The engineer at Panasonic did tell
me that other manufacturers have the
same features in their equipment, citing Sony, Philips, NEC, and Toshiba
as examples. He likened it to the fast
blanking used in SCARTs but that is
a different sort of feature as far as I
siliconchip.com.au
know, used for keying in RGB graphic
overlays such as external teletext or
picture-in-picture, etc.
Maybe there is that sort of functionality but I can’t seem to find anything
on the web or in my reference books.
There are implications for manufacturers of active switchboxes and
Right and wrong way
to wire a 3-pin plug
I was studying the photographs
on page 42 of the Coolmaster article
in the June 2005 issue and I noticed
that the socket has been wired at the
wrong end of the cable. It appears to
me that the Neutral/Earth conductors are crossed, even though the
socket is no doubt wired correctly.
It is the lay of the cable that is my
real concern. To demonstrate, I have
made up two short extension leads
which have correct and incorrect
(“wrong” end of cable) cable lay.
Both are wired in accordance with
the details provided by HPM.
Please note that in the “correct
lay” extension cable, none of the
distribution amplifiers, etc. Maybe the
TV servicing fraternity may be aware
of the details. There might even be
scope for a project that exploits these
features. I know I would be fascinated
to find out about it.
Joe R,
via email.
conductors “crosses” any of the others to reach their correct positions
on the plug top or socket. Also,
note the distance (2-3mm) from
the opaque plastic of the plug/top
socket to the other insulation of the
3-core cable.
I had no difficulty in making the
connections and assembling the plug
top and socket.
Ray Smith,
Hoppers Crossing, Vic.
Comment: you make an interesting point and one that we have not
considered before. While it makes no
difference to plug safety it possibly
does make the job of wiring plugs
and sockets a little easier – and it
looks neater!
XL-02
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sound advice call 08 8295 4271
or visit our website www.kitaudio.com
prices start from $995.00
(also available fully assembled)
Ozitronics
www.ozitronics.com
Tel: (03) 9434 3806 Fax: (03) 9011 6220
Email: sales2005<at>ozitronics.com
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kit featured in July SILICON CHIP
UNIPOLAR motor driver
8-30VDC <at> 6A. PCB: 80x50mm
K179 -
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See also K109 - $30.80
This is the “wrong” way to wire a 3-pin mains plug & socket. Here, the plug
and socket have been wired to the wrong ends of the cable, so that the wires
have to cross each other to reach their correct terminals.
BIPOLAR motor driver
8-30VDC <at> 6A max. PCB: 75x85mm
K158 - $28.60
Prices include GST – shipping extra.
Full documentation available from website.
And this is the correct way – by reversing the direction of the mains cable,
the Active, Neutral & Earth wires can be run to their correct terminals
without crossing each other.
siliconchip.com.au
September 2005 7
Car cruise controls that use radar to
maintain pace with the car in front!
By
Julian Edgar
Adaptive Cruise
Control Systems
Cruise control systems have been available in cars for many years.
However, a new type of cruise control is now being fitted. It’s called
“Adaptive Cruise Control” and it uses radar to maintain a safe
distance to the car in front, even if that car’s speed changes.
O
n the road, it’s a brilliant innovation that improves safety,
reduces fatigue and adds convenience. But how does it work?
Intelligent cars
The last decade has seen the widespread introduction of systems than
enhance car intelligence. Anti-Lock
Braking (ABS) and Electronic Stability
Control (ESP) give the car the ability to
8 Silicon Chip
act in ways not specifically requested
by the driver – for example, to release
the brakes momentarily to prevent
wheel lock-up or to reduce throttle
opening if the car is sliding. Adaptive
Cruise Control is another step on that
road to enhanced intelligence – Fig.1
shows where it is on the path that leads
to full collision avoidance.
The presence of systems like ABS
and ESP means that many of the input
signals needed by Adaptive Cruise
Control are already available. These
include:
• vehicle speed
• vehicle lateral acceleration
• driver accelerator input
• driver steering input
• driver brake input
However, not present is the most
critical of inputs – a forward-looking
sensor.
siliconchip.com.au
Product
Collision Avoidance
Collision Warning
Lane/Road Departure
Forward Collision Warning
Adaptive Cruise Control
Cruise Control
Future
System Functionality
Complete 360° vehicle coverage. Braking and
active steering to avoid object. Lane keeping.
Improved all-vehicle coverage (forward, side,
rear) with full alert function.
Partial all-vehicle coverage, with lane/road
departure alerts. Vision required.
Identify stopped objects. Provide warning. Provide “Braketo-Stop” and “Low Speed Cruise/Stop and Go” ACC
capabilities. Vision required for advance alert features.
Provide throttle control with limited braking to maintain timedheadway distance. No stopped object identification and no
warning.
Drive controlled system. No dynamics.
Today
Fig.1: Adaptive Cruise Control is seen by many as the first evolutionary step towards intelligent cars that actively avoid
crashes. [Delphi]
Forward-looking sensor
characteristics
An Adaptive Cruise Control (ACC)
forward-looking sensor must meet certain strict design requirements.
1: Range – In order that an appropriate following distance can be
maintained, the sensor must be capable of working over a specific range.
For example, if the following distance
is defined in terms of time gap between
the two vehicles, a 2-second gap at
160km/h will require the distance between the vehicles to be about 90 metres.
However, in order that the sensor
can maintain continuous control, the
actual required sensor range will be
about 10% greater than this. So if the
maximum speed required of the ACC
is 160km/h, a sensor range of about 100
metres is the minimum requirement.
This diagram shows how Adaptive Cruise Control works from a driver’s perspective. In the first image the blue car is travelling
at 115km/h and the green car behind it has its cruise control set to 140km/h. As the green car draws close to the blue car,
the Adaptive Cruise Control radar senses the blue car’s proximity and automatically slows the green car until it maintains a
constant, safe gap. When the blue car turns off, the green car smoothly resumes its 140km/h cruise. (You can tell these diagrams
are from Germany – sitting at 140km/h on cruise control in Australia? Other than in the Northern Territory, we wish!) [Bosch]
siliconchip.com.au
September 2005 9
Control units for engine,
transmission and ESP
Instrument cluster with
DISTRONIC display
Proximity sensor
(radar aerial)
Adaptive Cruise Control
interfaces with existing car
systems like Electronic Stability
Control (ESP) and Anti-Lock
Braking (ABS). An electronic
throttle is also normally
used on cars equipped with
this type of cruise control.
[DaimlerChrysler]
Cruise
control
lever
Control unit for
DISTRONIC
2. Closing Rate – the sensor must
be able to rapidly detect that the car
ahead is being closed upon. If the
sensor is slow to react, a greater range
will be required otherwise the following car will draw too close before
throttle reduction or braking occurs.
The magnitude of permitted braking will also affect this requirement;
if the car is permitted to brake hard
then the sensor can be slower to react.
Assuming a maximum automatic
braking deceleration of 0.2G, a maximum closing rate of 50-65km/h and
Brake
booster
a minimum following distance of 2030m, a sensor range of 80-100 metres
is again a minimum requirement.
3. Field of View – the field of view
(FOV) of the sensor can be defined both
in terms of azimuth (left/right) and elevation (up/down) angles. The azimuth
FOV is important if the system is going
to be effective at working on curves.
As Fig.7 shows, beam width has a
major affect on the distance at which
a cornering car can be tracked. At a
speed of 90km/h the ACC following
distance will be about 50 metres.
100
A
1
2
Control on
centre console
3
B
SIGNAL AMPLITUDE
SIGNAL AMPLITUDE RATIO
10
1
Radar sensors
2/1
0.1
3/2
3/1
0.01
–
0
ANGLE
+
–8°
–4°
0
ANGLE
4°
8°
Fig.2: the antenna patterns of the Bosch Adaptive Cruise control radar sensor.
Three lobes with overlapping patterns are used, with the angular position of
the sensed object determined by comparing the signal amplitude ratios between
antenna pairs. (a) shows the antenna patterns with (1) being the left lobe, (2)
being the centre lobe and (3) the right lobe. In (b) the relationship between the
amplitude ratios and the angular position of the object are shown. [Bosch]
10 Silicon Chip
Assuming a minimum radius-ofcurvature of 300 metres, a minimum sensor FOV of 5° is required.
However, additional FOV is usually
needed to take into account mechanical or electrical misalignment of the
antenna – a point that we will return
to.
In addition to these three requirements, the sensor must be able to
withstand a temperature range of
-40 to +80°C, be proof against water
splashes and pressurised steam, be
immune to vehicle vibrations, resist
stone impacts and be as small as possible.
Two types of forward-looking sensor
have been developed – lidar (light detection and ranging) and radar (radio
detection and ranging). However, the
radar-based sensor is the most widely
used and it is this type of sensor that
will be covered here.
Two types of radar sensors are used
– those with stationary antennas and
those that mechanically sweep back
and forth.
US automotive components manufacturer Delphi has developed a
scanning sensor with a narrow 2°
beam-width. This beam is mechanically swept over a 15° detection region
and has an elevation FOV of 4°. As the
siliconchip.com.au
Range
2 – 120m
Detectable
relative speed
±50m/s
Angular range
±4°
Resolution
0.85m; 1.7m/s
Scanning rate
10Hz
Frequency range
76 – 77GHz
Mean power
transmission
Approx. 1mw
Bandwidth
Approx. 200MHz
Fig.3: the specifications of the radar
sensor used on Bosch Adaptive Cruise
Control systems. [Bosch]
antenna is scanned, over 40 individual
transmit/receive beams are executed
with each pass. Beam object data is
updated within 100ms.
However, much more common is
a sensor that has a fixed antenna.
The Bosch system (used by DaimlerChrsyler, BMW and Audi) uses this
approach.
The Bosch system uses a Frequency
Modulated Continuous Wave (FMCW)
output. Instead of timing the period
between transmission of the signal
and the echo, a FMCW radar system
compares the frequencies of the transmitted signal and its echo.
The output frequency is changed
at a rate of 200MHz per millisecond
and so the time interval between the
transmit and receive signals can be
Fig.4: a sectional view of the Bosch
Adaptive Cruise Control unit, which
incorporates both the radar and the
control circuitry. (1) Circuit board 1,
(2) Oscillator block, (3) Beam sources,
(4) Lens, (5) Lens heater contact, (6)
Circuit board 3, (7) Circuit board 2,
(8) Radar Transceiver. [Bosch]
siliconchip.com.au
Different car manufacturers give different names to Adaptive Cruise Control
Systems – DaimlerChrysler calls the system ‘Distronic’. This Distronic system is
mounted directly behind the Mercedes star in the grille. [DaimlerChrysler]
established by determining their frequency difference.
However, because the distance
between the transmitter and its target
may be changing, this differential
frequency information contains not
only the time interval component
but also the frequency shift (ie, Doppler component) . This ambiguity can
be resolved by the use of multiple
FMCW cycles using differing rates of
frequency change.
Using these techniques, the distance
to the target and whether the target is
The location of the Adaptive Cruise Control radar sensor on a BMW. [BMW]
September 2005 11
DETECTION SENSOR
(RADAR, LIDAR)
VEHICLE SENSOR
(YAW RATE, SPEED)
OBJECT
DETECTION
MULTI-TARGET
TRACKING
Fig.5: the signal processing architecture of a typical
Adaptive Cruise Control. Once the objects are detected,
tracking needs to occur. Both their paths and also the path
of the controlled vehicle are estimated, the input commands
of the driver are noted and the ACC controls the throttle
and/or brakes. [Delphi]
drawing closer or moving further away
can be established.
However, some spatial data is also
needed – is the target directly ahead
or to one side of the forward aim? If
the target’s radar reflective characteristics are known, the amplitude of the
signal echo depends on the angle at
which the signal is received by the
radar. However, when the reflective
characteristics of the target are unknown, a different approach needs
to be taken.
To determine the angle at which
the radar detects an object, three radar
lobes are transmitted and analysed.
The ratio of the signal amplitudes of
the three different lobes provides this
angular information.
Fig.2 shows the antenna lobe
patterns and how signal amplitude
ratios are used to resolve the angular
position of the targets. Fig.3 shows
the specifications of the Bosch ACC
radar sensor.
The Denso system used in Toyota/
Lexus models uses a more conventional type of radar. Distance is detected by measuring the time between
transmission and reception, while
relative speed is detected by the frequency shift (Doppler Effect) of the
reflected waves.
The angular position is detected by
the phase differences of the signals
received by multiple antennas. The
Denso unit also differs from the Bosch
design in that it has separate receiving
and transmitting antennas (although
all the antennas are mounted in the
one assembly).
The physical layout of the Bosch radar sensor is shown in Fig.4. The radar
and the ACC controller are integrated
into one housing.
The front of the unit features a
Fresnel lens that is used to focus the
three radar lobes. The lens is made
12 Silicon Chip
HMI ALERTS
(VISUAL, AUDIO)
PATH
ESTIMATION
ACC
CONTROL
ACTUATOR CONTROL
(THROTTLE/BRAKE)
HMI DRIVER COMMANDS
(TIMED HEADWAY, ETC)
from a special temperature and stoneresistant plastic which is formed as
part of the module casing. The lens
incorporates a heating element which
prevents it becoming coated in snow
or ice. According to Bosch, wet snow
has a great attenuating effect on the
radar signal.
In one iteration of the Bosch design,
the sensor assembly comprises three
circuit boards. The first consists of
the radar transceiver unit which is
mounted directly on a circuit board,
keeping interconnections as short as
possible and so reducing susceptibility to interference. Also on this board
is a digital signal processor, purposedeveloped 10-bit and 12-bit analog
to digital converter, SRAM and flash
memory.
On the second board is a 16-bit
microcontroller which performs the
necessary car speed control calculations. The third board contains the
driver modules to allow connection
to the car’s electrical and CAN bus
communications systems.
The module must be aligned in both
vertical and horizontal planes. In the
horizontal plane Bosch state that a
degree of accuracy of better than 0.3°
is required, while BMW put the figure
at 1° and Cadillac at 2°.
The BMW system requires the use
of a BMW service tool to perform the
alignment, while Cadillac systems
can be placed in an ‘alignment mode’
and then automatically aligned by being driven along with a road that has
stationary objects either side.
Apparently, the more stationary
objects (such as light poles, mail
boxes, etc) there are, the quicker the
alignment occurs.
How the system works
It is all very well to detect the
presence of cars in front but how is it
The complexity of the technology of Adaptive Cruise Control systems currently
limits them to expensive cars. However, expect a trickle-down to more humble
cars to occur in the near future. [DaimlerChrysler]
siliconchip.com.au
The instrument panel of a BMW using Adaptive Cruise Control: (1) the set
cruise control speed, (2) indication that the vehicle ahead is being tracked, (3)
indication of the driver requested car-to-car spacing, (4) an indication that the
cruise control system is on. [BMW]
determined whether the car is in your
lane or another? What about when
cornering? And what happens when
a car cuts into your lane?
Fig.5 shows the signal processing
architecture of a typical ACC. Once
the objects are detected, tracking of
them occurs. Both their paths and also
the path of the controlled vehicle are
estimated, the input commands of the
driver are noted and the ACC controls
the throttle and/or brakes.
In the Bosch FMCW system, positive detection of objects is carried
out by comparing consecutive radar
modulation cycles. If in the second
cycle the object is found where it
could be expected to be (on the basis
of its previously detected speed and
position) it is assumed to be the same
vehicle.
In other words, the object data is
filtered on the basis of historical information. Additional object tracking
functions are carried out where there
are multiple simultaneous echoes
from different distances, which can
be the case with large trucks.
In this situation the multiple echoes
are combined so that the system sees
only one object.
Object selection occurs in this
manner:
1. The lateral position of the object
versus the predicted course of the ACC
system’s own vehicle is calculated.
2. A calculation is made of the
object’s “lane probability”, that is,
which lane the object is most likely
to be in.
3. Lane probability is a main input
into the next step, that of a “plausibility attribute”. Together with the
frequency and reliability of object
detection, this determines the degree
of plausibility that the detected vehicle
is in the same lane as the ACC car.
4. The object is selected as the target
only if the degree of plausibility is
sufficient. This plausibility is based
only on moving objects – ACC systems
ignore stationary objects when selecting targets.
The first step – that of locating the
object relative to the predicted course
of the ACC car – is most critical.
Fig.6: if the
trajectory
of the car
equipped with
Adaptive Cruise
Control cannot
be accurately preA
dicted, the system
will have problems
on corners. Here there
are three cars travelling
around a curve on a
multilane road. Car 3, the
car equipped with the ACC,
is at the bottom of the
diagram. Without an ability
to accurately model the
predicted course of the ACC
car, the system would expect to
follow course B and therefore
sense car 2 as being ahead of it
in its lane. However, the ACC
car will actually follow course
A and so must sense car 1 as
being ahead of it. [Bosch]
siliconchip.com.au
κ
B
1
2
d YC
d RANGE
2 α RANGE
3 ACC
ACC 1
Fig.7: the effective range
of the radar beam is much
reduced in corners. This
has implications for the
required radar beam width
and also for the behaviour
of the system should it
lose sight of the car ahead.
[Bosch]
September 2005 13
The radar sensor
jointly developed by Denso and Toyota
uses a different design to the Bosch unit. The transmitting
and receiving antennas are separate (although in the one
package) and use pulsed output transmissions. [Denso]
The Bosch Adaptive Cruise Control system incorporates
the radar and control circuits into the one enclosure.
Dominating the package is the Fresnel lens which focuses
the three beams of the radar. [Bosch]
Fig.6 shows three cars travelling
around a curve on a multi-lane road.
Car 3, equipped with ACC, is at the
bottom of the diagram. Without an
ability to accurately model the predicted course of the ACC car, the system
LEVEL 1
LEVEL 2
RADAR
DATA
would expect to follow Course B and
therefore would sense Car 2 as being
ahead of it in its lane. However, the
ACC car will actually follow course
A and so must sense car 1 as being
ahead of it.
WHEEL SPEED
SENSOR
YAW RATE
SENSOR
RADAR
OBJECT DETECTION
DETERMINATION OF
COURSE CURVATURE
LEVEL 3
OBJECT SELECTION
COURSE PREDICTION, TRACKING
LEVEL 4
ACC CONTROL
LEVEL 5
LINEAR SPEED CONTROL
LEVEL 6
OTHER
SENSORS
ENGINE MANAGEMENT
DRIVE TRAIN
ACTIVE BRAKE
INTERVENTION
Fig.8: the Bosch Adaptive Cruise Control uses the 6-level control sequence
shown here. The first level is the input of data from the radar, wheel-speed
sensors, yaw sensor and other sensors. The second level is to identify any
moving objects ahead of the car and assess their plausibility of being in the
same lane. Once this has been done, the system can calculate the projected
trajectory of the Adaptive Cruise Control car and track and predict the
course of other vehicles. A target vehicle is established and the required
acceleration calculated. The actuation system by which the car’s speed is
to be changed is selected (it can be throttle, brakes or transmission) and
then finally, this control is exerted. [Bosch]
14 Silicon Chip
Course prediction is based on the
“trajectory curvature”. That is, the
change in direction that the car is undergoing as a function of the distance
travelled. This is determined by sensors detecting steering angle, lateral
acceleration, yaw and the difference
in left/right wheel speeds.
The effect of crosswinds, road
camber and differences in wheel
diameters can all reduce trajectory
curvature prediction. Combining the
techniques reduces the probability
of error.
In addition, the ACC system can
use the current and past positions
of stationary and moving objects to
determine the projected course of the
car. This can be carried out by analysing the apparent lateral movement of
vehicles in front as they enter a bend
and analysing near-road stationary
objects.
Special logic is used in sharp bends.
If it is sensed that the car is negotiating
a sharp bend, a reduction is made in
the maximum permissible acceleration (note that in this context, acceleration also refers to deceleration), so
as to maintain vehicle stability.
Secondly, as Fig.7 shows, the effective range of the radar beam is much
reduced in corners and so the ACC
modifies the allowable acceleration to
suit this reduced “visibility”.
Finally, if the target car disappears
from view, logic prevents the ACC
vehicle from suddenly speeding up.
The Bosch ACC uses the 6-level
control sequence shown in Fig.8. The
first level is the input of data from the
radar, wheel-speed sensors, yaw sensiliconchip.com.au
Driving with Adaptive
Cruise Control
In order that the car reacts adequately quickly to a changed situation but
at the same time avoiding uncomfortable braking or acceleration if it is not
essential, a non-linear control system
is employed. This causes changes in
relative speed (eg, a rapid closing
speed) to produce a greater reaction
than changes in distance.
On the road
We were able to spend some time with the Audi A8 4.2, a car that features
Bosch Adaptive Cruise Control. And what was it like? In a word, brilliant.
We didn’t have a chance to test it on tight, winding country roads but in freeway
conditions it was superb. Speed selection is available only in 10km/h increments – which is fine when you no longer need to ‘tap-up’ and ‘tap-down’ in
tiny increments, trying to maintain a constant gap to the car in front. As you
would expect with a system that maintains a constant time gap, at slow speeds
the Audi would creep up on the car in front and at higher speeds it would drop
back; all automatically, of course.
If the car ahead slowed abruptly, the Audi would automatically apply the brakes
– and if it was deemed by the system to be an emergency stop, an audible
alarm sounded and you were expected to brake. A green symbol showed on
the instrument display when the car in front was within the minimum safe distance – and this changed to red when driver braking was needed.
Describing the system in step-by-step detail makes it sound more cumbersome
than it really is. This is literally a set-and-forget system – on a drive from Sydney
to Canberra or Melbourne, it would be simply awesome.
If the price of the technology drops as it has for other car innovations, we’re
happy to go on record and say that in the foreseeable future – say, in 10 years
time – all cars with cruise control will have a radar proximity function. It just
works so well….
Most cars equipped with ACC
use a similar driver interface. The
selected cruise speed is shown by
an illuminated segment or LED on
the speedometer. The selected gap
spacing is shown diagrammatically
on a dot matrix or TFT display – for
example, by the spacing between two
car symbols.
When the ACC is tracking a car,
another symbol illuminates on the
dashboard display. In this way, the
requested and actual vehicle speeds,
the requested gap and the tracking
action of the ACC can all be quickly
and easily seen.
Current ACC systems are suitable
for use primarily on freeways and
open rural roads.
They will not brake a vehicle to
a standstill, even if the vehicle is
aimed straight at a roadside obstacle.
Furthermore, if the traffic ahead is
stopped, an alarm may sound but
again the vehicle will not be emergency braked.
Such collision avoidance systems
are in the pipeline but as was remarked
at the beginning of this story, ACC is
only the first step on that road.
However, it’s a pretty impressive
SC
step…
Which Cars?
sor and other sensors.
The second level is to identify any
moving objects ahead of the car and
assess their plausibility of being in
the same lane. In this step the data
from the other car system sensors is
assessed to determine the degree of
curvature of the road.
Once this has been done, the system
can calculate the projected trajectory
of the ACC car and track and predict
the course of other vehicles. A target
vehicle is established – normally it
will be the one calculated as being
ahead of the ACC car in the same lane.
However, this is not always the case: if
vehicles ahead of the ACC car (or the
siliconchip.com.au
ACC car itself) change lanes, a group
of several possible target vehicles can
be considered.
The next step is the calculation of
the required acceleration. The actuation system by which the car’s speed
is to be changed is selected (it can be
throttle, brakes or transmission) and
then finally, this control is applied.
The driver has control over two
functions: the set speed and the
distance to be maintained between
the ACC car and the car ahead. As
mentioned earlier, the distance is
set by means of a requested time gap
which is generally in the range of one
to two seconds.
Cars fitted with Adaptive Cruise
Control are currently limited to the
upper echelons. A brief world list
includes: Audi A8 (2004 - current),
BMW 7 Series (2003-current), BMW
5 Series (2004 - current), General
Motors Cadillac XLR (2003 - current), Nissan Infiniti Q45 (2003 - current), Jaguar XKR (2003 - current),
Lexus LS430 (2004- current), Lexus
GS430 - current), Mercedes-Benz
S Class (2000 - current), Mercedes
Benz CL Class (2000 - current),
Mercedes Benz E Class (2003 current), Mercedes Benz SL Class
(2003 - current).
September 2005 15
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more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
dicksmith.com.au
We test
by Ross Tester
iBurst Mobile Broadband
We looked at Unwired a year ago. Now we look at the opposition!
H
aving now obtained a reasonable amount of experience with
Unwired’s wireless broadband
offering, we were given the opportunity
to test their opposition recently. iBurst
sent us one of their “mobile” broadband
modems to evaluate. They call it a Personal Broadband Access Card.
iBurst actually have two types of
wireless broadband modem. The first
is designed for fixed systems, not too
dissimilar to that offered by Unwired
(however, they are certainly not interchangeable as they use different
technologies and frequencies – iBurst
is on 1.9GHz where Unwired is on
3.5GHz).
However, the one which made us sit
up and take note was something that Unwired don’t offer – a model designed for
laptops and notebooks, claimed to not
only offer a completely mobile system
but one which could actually be used
when mobile – according to iBurst at
speeds in excess of 100km/h!
The laptop/notebook modem takes
the form of a PC-card (once called
PCMCIA) which simply slides into a
type-2 PC card slot. There is nothing
else to connect.
Also on this section are a pair of
LEDs – one shows power while the
The iBurst mobile modem fitted to the PC slot of an IBM notebook. You can have
a notebook with both iBurst and WiFi as they are on different frequencies.
other (with an antenna logo) shows
signal strength with different LED colours showing good (green), marginal
(orange) and poor/non-existent (red).
Our experience was that you really
had to have a green to have any real
reliability. But we’re getting a bit ahead
of ourselves.
Finally, there is an integral antenna.
I’ll have a little more to say about this
later as well!
Installation
One of iBurst’s selling points is its
quick and easy installation. “Under
three minutes”, they claim.
Was it? Yes . . . and no! Installation
certainly took a very short time – run
This page: the iBurst coverage maps (l-r) for Sydney, Canberra and Brisbane.
Sydney is fairly well covered, except for great slabs of the north, northern
beaches, and outer west. Unwired has a better coverage of Sydney but iBurst
also covers other cities where Unwired has yet to start.
22 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
The iBurst mobile (laptop/notebook)
PC-card modem. The folded-down
antenna is hidden along the back.
the software, plug in the card when
requested, then log on. Except that I
couldn’t log on, which sort of made the
whole experience just a bit less than
satisfactory.
When we looked at Unwired, we
made the comment that the Northern
Beaches of Sydney (while it is God’s
country!) is still a telecommunications
backwater. And unfortunately, that’s
where the SILICON CHIP offices are (as
are most of the staff).
Depending on where you are, television signals range from good to virtually
non-existent. FM radio suffers from
multipath and other interference. Even
good ol’ AM radio can be plagued by
noise and poor signal strength. ADSL is
Similarly, here’s the current coverage of
the Gold Coast (above) and Melbourne.
iBurst admit they have a long way to go
– but they’re working on it!
siliconchip.com.au
often unavailable due to the distances
between telephone exchanges and customers – and cable hasn’t quite made it
to many areas. All this around 15-20km
from the coat hanger!
And so it is with iBurst. According to
the red areas (good signal) on their coverage map (published elsewhere in this
feature), they look after Sydney city,
the north shore, eastern suburbs and a
good part of the west pretty well. But
check out the Northern Beaches: most of
it is green – meaning no go (actually it
means “planned”, as in sometime in the
future. It’s been that way since iBurst
was introduced last year!).
However, one particular area is all
red – Collaroy Plateau. For those who
don’t know Sydney, this is an elevated
area with good line-of-sight in most
directions, including the City.
So most of my initial testing was
done sitting in a carpark on Collaroy
Plateau. Unfortunately I don’t have a
car charger for my notebook so this necessitated several trips home to charge
the battery.
The first time I installed iBurst everything went perfectly, except for one
minor detail: it didn’t work at all. “No
signal” it said. “No modem”, it said. I
tried reseating the modem, just in case
– but no go. After an hour or so, I gave
up in frustration (actually the battery
gave up!)
OK, what next? I was loathe to ring
iBurst because I’m a technical person
and I should be able to follow simple
instructions, right? So I tried again. Still
no go. Could it be a software problem? I
decided to un-install the software from
my notebook and re-install it.
This time I did it in the carpark where
there should be plenty of signal – and
lo and behold, it did install properly –
and worked. And from go to whoa, it
did take about three minutes.
Why didn’t it work the first time?
Dunno! Put it down to the vagaries of
computers! (I’m not going to admit it
might have been the nut on the keyboard, am I?)
The test
The iBurst control panel tells you
quite a bit of useful information, such
as whether you are connected or not,
the relative signal strength, packets sent
and received, and so on. It’s a useful
addition to the red/orange/green signal
strength LED on the modem itself.
Our test modem came direct from
iBurst (actually, their PR company) so
I didn’t have the hand-holding that you
would get with, say, Dick Smith Electronics or one of their other “channel
partners” (don’t you just love the buzz
words? No? Neither do I!)
At the suggestion of the PR company,
I logged onto another iBurst distributor,
Chilli Internet Solutions (www.chilli.
net.au.) Their website contains a significantly better coverage “map” than does
iBurst itself – you enter the required
location (down to street name and
number) and it will tell you whether
iBurst is available at that particular spot
– complete with hi-definition maps.
It was here that I found out that NOT
all of Collaroy Plateau is covered. I also
found that an area, which the iBurst
map suggested was not covered, was!
But there was something else I had
completely overlooked. I had simply
plugged the iBurst modem into the PC
slot, as the instructions suggested. But
then I noticed a couple of photos on
the Chilli site showed a little vertical
antenna.
“Bugger!” I thought “the PR company
has forgotten to send me the antenna”.
But then real close examination showed
that it was integral with the modem and
just required unclipping and turning
through 90°. Talk about embarrassing!
Armed with this information, I went
driving (remember, iBurst mobile is
guaranteed to be just that, mobile). With
my trusty notebook on the front seat, I
logged on to a site with free streaming
video (OK, I admit it – Big Brother Live
Cam! Of course, this was for purely
scientific research purposes).
All I can say is – it worked. Anywhere that the Chilli site suggested I
September 2005 23
Chilli Laptop Modem
Speed
Download
Limit
512/128k
300MB
1Mb/345k
500MB
1Mb/345k
1GB
1Mb/345k
3GB
1Mb/345k
10GB
Monthly
Price
$49.95
$64.95
$99.95
$129.95
$199.95
Chilli Desktop Modem
Speed
Download
Limit
256/64k
200MB
256/64k
400MB
512/128k
400MB
512/128k
1GB
1MB/345k
1GB
1MB/345k
3GB
1MB/345k
10GB
Monthly
Price
$29.95
$34.95
$44.95
$59.95
$64.95
$79.95
$189.95
Chilli’s current iBurst plans for both the laptop modem we featured here or the
desktop modem. There’s also a once-only contract charge ranging from $66 to $129
and if you exceed your download limit, you either pay extra or have it “shaped”.
could get signal, the streaming video
didn’t miss a beat. Signal strength
stayed up in the 60+ area. I cannot
confirm the 100km/h claim – there’s
nowhere I can legally drive that fast
in the local coverage area.
I had already checked out iBurst at
my own place – absolutely nothing
(no surprise there). Next I drove down
from the high plateau into an area
which should have been non-existent,
according to iBurst, and patchy, according to Chilli.
That’s exactly what it was – patchy.
Most of the time it was pretty good but
there were places where the signal did
momentarily drop out – but usually it
reconnected pretty quickly.
There were places where I didn’t
expect signal – and got it. And there
were places, outside the acknowledged
coverage area, where connection disappeared completely, as expected.
Remember, this test was being done
at what would have been called “deep
fringe” in TV signal parlance. You’d
expect to need a good antenna system
to get any signal – but this thing is just
a tiny (53mm) whip antenna on a modem in a laptop on a car seat – hardly
the best reception environment.
I have read all the testimonials from
very happy and satisfied iBurst/Chilli
customers, about how well it works
in the inner city, west, north shore,
et al. Fine – all of those areas should
be wall-to-wall. I’d be disappointed
if it didn’t work there after all the
claims made.
But for it to work as well as it did
at the very edges of expected signal –
and even beyond – I have to say I am
impressed with its performance.
How much?
For this sort of flexibility, it’s not
unreasonable that you would have to
be prepared to spend a little more than
your typical ADSL/Cable (ie wired)
system. iBurst/Chilli maintain that
it’s about the same – that’s advertising talk for both prices starting with
a dollar sign.
First of all, the modem itself: the
mobile version we tried will set you
back $299. As we mentioned before,
there is a fixed version (but still wireless, along the lines of Unwired) for
$199.00.
There is also an “activation charge”
which, depending on the length of
contract you take out, ranges from $66
(12 months) to $129 (no contract).
We looked at the Chilli website to
find plan prices – plans from other
providers are pretty much identical (in
fact, many on-sell Chilli plans).
We’ve shown the Chilli plans for
both fixed and mobile. As you can see,
they aren’t as cheap as most broadband (ADSL/Cable) plans available
these days.
In fact, their top-of-the-line mobile
plan, 1Mbs download, 345Kbs upload,
10GB download limit before shaping
or excess charges, is a not inconsiderable $199.95 per month.
To counter this, iBurst claim that
their speed is maintained at a much
higher level than ADSL/cable and are
even promising speeds of 2Mbs next
year and 8Mbs by 2008. That’s fast!
Summary
Is iBurst for you? If you have a laptop/notebook and don’t want to be tied
to a wired modem, obviously. It really
is convenient.
Even if you have a desktop PC and
don’t want to (or cannot) connect to
ADSL or cable AND you’re in the
coverage area, iBurst could be the
answer.
One feature/benefit iBurst point out
is that with this system, you can get
rid of your fixed telephone and make
all your calls VoIP calls. The thirty
bucks or so a month that the phone
rental costs you could be put into a
better broadband plan.
With the VoIP offerings available
these days, that too makes perfect
sense, especially if you’re one of
Australia’s more “mobile” population.
You could even use a mobile phone
for incoming calls and iBurst+VoIP for
very low-cost outgoing calls.
Gives you something to think
about!
And finally, a plea, albeit a selfish/
parochial one: please, Mr (or is it Ms?)
iBurst. Can you PLEASE do something about coverage on the Northern
SC
Beaches?
Reader Feedback on “Unleashing Unwired”
I have some feedback for you on the “Unleasing Unwired” article that featured in the July
2005 issue.
Firstly, I would like to congratulate Ross Tester
on an informative article.
I would like to let everyone know that there is
a diagnostic program available from Navini, the
people who design and manufacture the infrastructure that Unwired uses. Navdiag gives you
a whole hoard of information, such as received
signal strength, SNR, which antenna currently in
use, distance to current base station in meters,
24 Silicon Chip
amongst many other parameters.
Anyway the software is available for download
at:- http://www.navini.com/downloads/
Support/navdiag_windows.exe
Note that if you are behind a router or firewall,
you will need to directly attach a PC to the Unwired modem to run this software.
There is a ‘hidden’ advanced mode that is
available in the software which gives far more
detailed infomation on the status of the modem.
Press Ctrl+Shift+F10 to activate this feature.
One thing I really like is the fact that it reports
the current BTS id number. (BTS is Navini-speak
for Unwired base station) For instance, I can see
that the BTS I connect to is number 200352.
You can then go over to www.ozunwired.
com where there is a list that tells you which
BTS id is which base station.
I hope you guys find this utility as useful
as I have in tinkering with external antennas
on Unwired.
Kind Regards,
Matt Robert
VK2TVK
siliconchip.com.au
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September 2005 25
Build Your Own
Seismograph
Ever wondered how a seismograph works?
Here’s one that you can build yourself. It uses
a horizontal swinging pendulum to detect
earthquake waves and you can even display
the results on a PC.
By DAVE DOBESON*
M
OST AUSTRALIANS are thankful that we are not seriously
affected by the large earthquakes and
volcanoes that regularly devastate so
many other parts of the world. However, few realise just how close we are
to much of the tectonic action, or how
easy it is to make your own amateur
seismograph.
The design described here can easily detect the half-dozen magnitude
7 quakes that occur around Australia
each year. In fact, the author has observed three major quakes occurring
“live” on the monitor, including one
from El Salvador.
Plate tectonics
Before we take a look at the design
of our seismograph, let’s first find
26 Silicon Chip
out why major earthquakes occur.
In particular, we need to have some
understanding of “plate tectonics”.
The basics are very simple – the
crust of the earth is made up of about
20 major “plates” that “float” on
semi-liquid layers underneath. In our
region, the Australian-Indian plate
(including the ocean floor out to NZ,
Fiji, PNG, Indonesia, most of the Indian Ocean, and also India) is moving
in a north-westerly direction by about
7cm each year. Over millions of years,
India (which is at the leading edge of
the plate) has “crashed” into Asia,
forming the Himalayas.
Earthquakes commonly occur at
the boundaries of the plates, where
they collide and produce stresses in
the Earth’s crust . For example, deep
ocean faults off the coast of Sumatra
produced the magnitude 9.0 “Boxing
Day Tsunami” earthquake last year
and the related Niass 8.7 earthquake
in April, 2005.
Also associated with this plate are a
number of volcanoes, including Krakotoa, which partly circle Australia
from Indonesia, through PNG and
down through NZ. Macquarie Island,
situated half-way between Australia
and Antarctica, had a magnitude 8.1
earthquake on Christmas Eve, the biggest in the world last year until the
Boxing Day earthquake.
Of course, many large earthquakes
go unreported because they occur
under the ocean or in sparsely populated areas and have no impact on
humans.
siliconchip.com.au
This seismograph plot shows a magnitude 6.5 quake that occurred in PNG on
April 11, 2005. A 6.8 quake near Noumea was detected only five hours later.
The detector circuit used was the same as described here but the data logger
was one of the types used in NSW high schools.
The mechanical section of the
seismograph uses parts that are
readily available from a hardware
store. It’s based on a swinging
horizontal pendulum and movement
is detected using a vane and light
sensor circuit mounted at one end.
If you look at the United States Geographical Survey (USGS) home page
and click on “Recent Earthquakes” (to
show the last seven days’ earthquakes
for the US and the world), you will see
that many of the larger earthquakes
occur near the boundaries of our
continental plate – see www.usgs.gov
In addition, Geoscience Australia’s
website (at www.ga.gov.au) has a table
that gives information on recent earthquakes in Australia and significant
worldwide quakes (just click on the
“Recent Earthquakes” link).
Both sites also have detailed information on the tectonic forces causing
earthquakes, the design and operation
of professional seismographs, records
of historically significant quakes and
links to records in other countries.
siliconchip.com.au
Another site that’s worth visiting is
www.geonet.org.nz/drums – it shows
“live” displays from seismographs
around NZ. If your home-made seismograph detects a real earthquake, the
event should also be reported within
minutes by the above three sites.
Designed for schools
This do-it-yourself seismograph
was originally described in “Scientific American” in 1979 and has been
adapted for science teachers to build
and use in the school laboratory – see
http://science.uniserve.edu.au/school/
Seismograph
Movements of the seismograph,
which is basically a horizontal pendulum, are detected using a simple
light sensor circuit. In operation, a
metal vane attached to one end of the
pendulum (or bar) partially blocks
the light between a LED and an LDR
(light-dependant resistor). However,
when the bar moves (ie, during an
earthquake), the amount of light falling on the LDR is modulated by the
metal vane.
This signal is then fed to a low-cost
op amp circuit which, in turn, feeds
into a data logger. Finally, the output
of the data logger is fed to a computer
to store, display and print the results.
All high schools in NSW have edu-
cational data loggers for use in experiments. Most of these units cost well
over $1000 but a cheap, 4-channel,
10-bit serial data acquisition device
(DI-194RS) from DATAQ in the US is
available from Turnkey Solution for
under $60 plus GST and delivery – see
www.turnkey-solutions.com.au
There’s an even cheaper way
around this problem for the home
enthusiast. A PICAXE-based A/D converter and a freeware graphing program called “StampPlot Lite” can do
the same job for about $10.00 – provided you also have a PC.
Building the seismograph
OK, let’s take a look at the mechanical details of our seismograph and find
out how it’s built.
The seismograph described here is
known as a “Lehman” or “Horizontal
Pendulum” seismograph. It’s also called a “Swinging Gate Seismograph”,
because the bar and its supporting
wire look like an old-fashioned farm
About The Author*
Dave Dobeson is a science teacher
at Turramurra High School and
the University of Sydney Science
Teacher Fellowship holder for 2005.
September 2005 27
TOP PIVOT POINT
(25-35CM ABOVE
LOWER PIVOT POINT)
This labelled photograph clearly shows how the Seismograph is
built. This version uses a magnetic damper but liquid damping
could also be used (see text and photos). Note that the light
sensor and A/D converter unit shown here is an early prototype.
TURNBUCKLE
STEEL WIRE 1-2MM DIA.
2-3KG MASS
DAMPER
METAL VANE
LIMITING
BOLTS
BAR: 5/16-INCH x 800MM
THREADED STEEL ROD
LIGHT-SENSOR & A/D
CONVERTER CIRCUIT
gate. The “hinges” (actually the pivot
points) of the “gate” are not quite vertically aligned, with the top hinge just
forward of the bottom hinge so that
the “gate” will swing shut. In practice,
this means that the horizontal pendulum (or bar) swings slowly back to its
original resting position
The accompanying photos show the
basic set-up. As can be seen, it includes
an 800mm-long 5/16-inch threaded
steel rod that’s fitted with a 2-3kg mass
at one end. The other end of the rod is
ground to an edge and pivots on the
end of a ½-inch bolt – this forms the
lower pivot point.
The supporting wire is attached
to the rod at one end, just before the
weights, and to a turnbuckle at the
other end. This then pivots about 2530cm above the lower pivot.
If we align the seismograph pivots
so that the top pivot is less than 1mm
forward of the bottom pivot, then the
seismograph bar will always swing
back to its central position and will
have a natural period of about 5-10
seconds. However, if the pivots are
exactly vertically aligned, there will
be no restoring force and it will never
swing back. We cannot move the top
pivot too far forward though, otherwise the seismograph will be very
insensitive.
28 Silicon Chip
This unit is very sensitive to the
mostly horizontal motion of earthquake “L-waves” but is insensitive to
“P-waves” which are mostly vertical.
Kiwis, because they are much closer
to the action, might be able to detect
P-waves if they use a spring instead
of the wire. Perth, Tennant Creek and
Yass also have small local quakes
every few months, so you might like
to experiment with a spring support
if you live in these areas.
By t he way, it’s important to remember that although we often talk about
the bar (or pendulum) of the seismograph “swinging”, it’s really the room
that moves during an earthquake. The
bar, because of the inertia of a heavy
mass attached to one end, initially
stays still. In effect, the unit and its associated logger act as a low-pass filter
which renders the unit insensitive to
everyday events (footsteps, doors closing, passing traffic, etc).
The accompanying photos show
most of the construction details. The
only critical dimension is that the top
pivot must be less than 1mm in front of
the lower pivot. As well as the wooden
frame shown, the unit could be built
into any strong cupboard, bookcase,
shelf or even a strong, metal frame.
In that case, the brackets and wooden
frame would not be needed. Any type
BOTTOM
PIVOT POINT
TILT ADJUSTMENT
BOLTS
RIGHT-ANGLE BRACKETS
WITH DIAGONAL STAYS
of metal rod could be used (as long as
it’s strong enough) and the same goes
for the mass at one end.
Note that you will have to “re-zero”
the seismograph for the first few weeks
after building it, as the wire, brackets
and wood flex under the strain. After
that, it will be a matter of making routine adjustments every few months.
Top pivot point
The top “hinge” (or pivot point)
is made by drilling a 5mm diameter
hole about half-way through the outer
section of a large, thick washer – ie,
to make a “dimple”. Smaller washers
and a nut are used to hold the large
washer in position, while a nut and
lockwasher behind the wooden upright panel lock the bolt in place.
As shown in the photos, the hook at
the end of the turnbuckle sits in this
dimple, so that it can freely pivot. In
operation, the turnbuckle adjusts the
tilt of the bar and is set so that the bar
is horizontal. The securing bolt can be
screwed in or out to move the top pivot
point relative to the bottom pivot. This
is important for the overall functioning
of the seismograph because it affects
the natural period of the bar (ie, the
time for one complete swing from the
centre to one side, then back through
the centre to the other side and finally
siliconchip.com.au
back to the centre again).
A period of about five seconds seems
to work best for my seismographs in
Sydney.
The pivot end of the 5/16-inch
threaded rod is ground to a knife-edge
and this sits vertically against the end
of a ½-inch bolt. Wind a nut onto the
rod before you cut and grind it, so that
the thread is restored when the when
the nut is removed. Be sure to use
safety goggles when drilling, cutting
or grinding metals – you only have
one pair of eyes.
Note that the lower mounting
point must be directly below the upper mounting point. The best way
to ensure this is to use a plum-bob
made from fine fishing line and a
lead sinker.
The two rear-most vertical bolts
that go through the support brackets
are used for tilt adjustment – see
photo. These both screw into threads
that are tapped through the wooden
base and the brackets (nuts under the
wooden base will do) and each has
a screwdriver slot cut into its end.
This allows you to use a screwdriver
to tilt the seismograph sideways and
forwards or backwards, to alter the
position of the bar and thus its period
and sensitivity.
The far end of the seismograph
wooden frame has a single central
support. A sheet of plywood or particleboard underneath will stop the
three supports from sinking into the
carpet when the unit is positioned on
the floor.
Swinging the weight
Just about any mass of 2-3kg will
provide sufficient inertia to initially
keep the bar still during an earthquake,
provided it doesn’t hang too far below the bar. A pair of 1.25kg barbell
weights are ideal for the job. They cost
less than $3 each from a sports store
and come with a ready-made hole
through the middle. This means they
can be simply slipped over the end of
the bar and clamped in position using
nuts and washers on either side.
Damping
Once earthquake waves set the bar
swinging, it will keep swinging for
hours unless it is damped. Perfect
damping would stop the bar with a
few swings but in practice, under 2-3
minutes is OK.
You can use either liquid or magnetic damping. For liquid damping,
a 40 x 50mm plastic paddle dipped
into a rectangular container of water
will do the job. You can use a small
bulldog clip to attach the paddle to
the bar. The water will need topping
up each week or so.
Magnetic damping involves attaching one or two super magnets to the end
of the bar using a U-shaped bracket.
A thick sheet of aluminium or a coil
of wire with the ends joined is then
placed in the magnetic field.
When the bar moves (ie, during an
earthquake), current is induced into
the aluminium or wire coil. This in
turn produces a magnetic field that
counters the magnets and so damps
the motion of the bar.
Discarded computer hard disks are
a good source for super magnets but
be careful – supermagnets are dangerous and the author has been badly cut
when a pair decided to play “north
attracts south with my hand in be-
The hook at the end of the turnbuckle
sits in a 5mm dimple that’s drilled
into a large washer to form the top
pivot point.
The lower pivot point is formed by
first grinding the end of the bar to a
sharp edge. This sharp edge then rests
vertically against the end of a 1/2-inch
x 40mm-long bolt.
tween”. They can also be a disaster if
they get too close to your credit cards
or a computer monitor!
On the other hand, the good thing
about magnetic damping is that once
Above & right: these two views show the alternative
damping methods for the swinging bar. Magnetic
damping (above) uses a couple of super magnets
and a coil of wire, while liquid damping (right)
uses a 40 x 50mm plastic paddle dipped into a
rectangular container of water.
siliconchip.com.au
September 2005 29
This side-on view clearly shows
the tilt adjustment bolts. These
are set so that the base is perfectly
horizontal (both east-west and
north-south), so that the pivot
points are in the same vertical
plane. The turnbuckle is then
adjusted so that the bar is also
horizontal.
TILT ADJUSTMENT
BOLTS
you get it right, it stays right.
Old aquarium air pumps have coils
of fine wire, which can be used for
magnetic damping if the ends of the
wires are joined together. A 400g coil of
0.7mm enamelled wire with the ends
joined together and a super magnet
that moves inside the coil gives almost
perfect damping.
Use your multimeter to check that
the winding hasn’t burnt out before
using the coil.
The perfect location for your seismograph is on a concrete block that’s set
into bedrock at the bottom of a sealed
mine shaft! If you don’t have access
to a mine shaft(!), the seismograph
should be installed in a closed room
or cupboard, or in a strong bookcase
surrounded by a Perspex cover (to
prevent air movement over the unit).
Circuit details
Many different seismograph detector and A/D (analog-to-digital)
converter circuits are available on
the net. The best-known site is called
the Public Seismic Network at www.
psn.quake.net (in California). It has
designs that go from pens writing on
rolls of paper to very complex circuits
with low-noise op amps, 16-bit A/D
converters and damping using negative feedback.
By contrast, the circuit used here
is quite simple – see Fig.1. As previously stated, it’s based on a light sensor
circuit that’s interrupted by a metal
vane attached to the end of the bar. In
practice, the unit is set up so that the
vane normally blocks about half the
light from the LED to its LDR.
The light detector and its associated
op amp circuit is exactly the same as
the one designed for use with school
data loggers. The logger output is
simply taken from the output of IC1,
as shown. Alternatively, you can add
your own data logger, based on A/D
converter stage IC2 (a PICAXE-08M).
In greater detail, power for the circuit comes from a 9V DC plugpack supply. Diode D1 provides reverse polarity
protection, while the associated 100W
resistor and 470mF capacitor provide
decoupling and ripple filtering.
The filtered DC rail is used to power
LED1 via a 1kW current limiting resistor. The LDR and its associated 10kW
resistor effectively form a voltage
divider across this supply rail, the voltage at their junction varying according
to the resistance of the LDR. This in
turn depends on the amount of light
reaching it from the LED.
The output from the LDR is fed to
the inverting (pin 2) input of op amp
IC1 (741) via two back-to-back 470mF
capacitors. These capacitors block the
DC component at the output of the
LDR while allowing signal fluctuations to be fed to the op amp. They
also block any slow variations in the
LDR signal due to thermal variations
in the room.
IC1 functions as an inverting amplifier stage. Its non-inverting input (pin
3) is biased to half-supply using two
In the prototype, the LED & the LDR were brought out through
holes in the case, with the vane sitting between them – see above.
By contrast, in the final version, the LED & LDR are inside the
case and the vane rides in a slot. The vane is positioned so that
it normally “shadows” about half the LED body.
30 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
10kW resistors, while its gain can be
varied from 0-10 using potentiometer
VR1, which is in the feedback loop.
Note that although the circuit shows
a 741 op amp, you could also use an
OP27 device for improved accuracy.
IC1’s output appears at pin 6 and
is fed to a voltage divider consisting
of two 3.3kW resistors. The top of this
divider (ie, at pin 6) can be used to
directly drive an external data logger.
Alternatively, the divider output (at
the junction of the resistors) can be
used to provide a nominal 0-5V signal, which may be required by some
loggers.
Pin 6 of IC1 also drives trimpot VR2
and this is used to set the maximum
signal level into pin 3 of IC2 (to about
4V). IC2 is programmed to function as
an A/D converter, using the simple
program shown in the accompanying
panel (more on this later). Its output
is taken from pin 7 (P0) and fed to pin
2 of DBF9 socket CON2.
This socket is in turn connected to
the serial port of a PC, to provide the
alternative data logger.
The PICAXE-08M is programmed
via pin 3 of the DBF9 socket. The
incoming data signal is fed to pin 2
(SER IN) of the IC via a voltage divider
consisting of 22kW and 10kW resistors.
Power for IC2 is supplied via 3-terminal regulator REG1. This provides
a regulated +5V rail to pin 1.
Building the circuit
Building the circuit is easy since all
the parts are mounted on a small PC
board coded 04105091. Fig.2 shows
the assembly details.
Note that REG1 and the PICAXE
(IC2) are required only if you don’t
already have a data logger. If
you do have a logger, these
parts can simply be left
out, along with the DB9F
socket, trimpot VR2, the
100nF capacitor and the 22kW
and 10kW voltage divider resistors from pin 2 of IC2.
Begin by installing the re-
Par t s Lis t
1 PC board, code 04105091,
123 x 57mm
1 9V DC plugpack
1 2.1mm DC power socket, to
suit plugpack (CON1)
1 DB9F connector, PC mount
1 plastic utility box, 130 x 67 x
44mm (UB-3 size)
4 9mm-long untapped spacers
4 M3 x 15mm machine screws
4 M3 nuts
3 PC stakes
1 serial computer cable (see text)
2 8-pin IC sockets
1 100kW linear potentiometer
(VR1); Jaycar Cat. RP-8518
1 5kW horizontal trimpot (VR2)
1 Light Dependent Resistor (LDR1)
1 3-way pin header
4 10kW
1 100W
1 3.3kW
Plus 1 x 10kW or 1 x 3.3kW or 1
x 1kW to match LDR resistance
– see text
Mechanical Parts
1 800mm-long x 5/16-inch
threaded steel rod
5 5/16-inch nuts and washers to
suit rod
1 50mm-long x 1/4-inch bolt
3 1/4-inch nuts and washers
1 40mm-long x 1/2-inch bolt
1 1/2-inch nut and washers
1 3/8-inch washer
1 1-metre length 1-2mm diameter
steel wire
2 bull-dog clips to suit
1 2-2.5kg mass (eg, 2 x 1.25kg
barbell weights)
1 piece of thin aluminium sheet
(to interrupt light beam)
1 50 x 50mm piece of aluminium
or rigid plastic for paddle (see
text)
2 small bolts & nuts to fasten
paddle to bulldog clips
2 braced right-angle brackets,
250 x 250mm
8 1/4-inch x 40mm bolts, nuts &
washers
3 5/16-inch x 100mm roundhead bolts, nuts & washers
1 wooden base, 900 x 250 x 20mm
1 wooden back, 400 x 250 x 20mm
Semiconductors
1 741 or OP27 op amp (IC1)
1 PICAXE-08M microcontroller
(IC2)
1 7805 3-terminal regulator
(REG1)
1 1N4004 diode (D1)
1 red or white high-brightness
LED (LED1)
Capacitors
3 470mF 25V electrolytic
1 100nF MKT (code 104 or 100n)
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
1 22kW
2 1kW
sistors and capacitors. Table 1 shows
the resistor colour codes but it’s also a
good idea to check each resistor using
a digital multimeter before soldering
them into circuit, just to make sure.
Follow these parts with diode D1,
the two IC sockets (don’t install the
ICs yet) and trimpot VR2. Take care
to ensure that D1 and the electrolytic
capacitors go in the right way around.
LED1 can go in next. Bend its lead
down through 90° close to its body
before installing it at full lead length
on the PC board – ie, the centre of the
LED should be about 22mm above the
PC board (see photo). Again, take care
to ensure that it’s oriented correctly.
That done, you can install the LDR
but there’s just one wrinkle here. The
10kW resistor shown in series with
the LDR on Fig.1 is correct for most
LDRs. However, some LDRs have a
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
o
o
o
o
o
siliconchip.com.au
No.
1
4
2
1
Value
22kW
10kW
1kW
100W
4-Band Code (1%)
red red orange brown
brown black orange brown
brown black red brown
brown black brown brown
5-Band Code (1%)
red red black red brown
brown black black red brown
brown black black brown brown
brown black black black brown
September 2005 31
REG1 7805
100
LED1
K
OUT
100nF
10k
LDR1
K
470F
9V
DC IN
1
6
470F
10k
VANE
ON
SEISMIC
MASS
CON1
SERIAL
OUTPUT
CON2
DB9F
SENSITIVITY
VR1 100k
A
470F
25V
7805
GND
GND
A
D1
1N4004
IN
+5V
OUT
IN
2
7
3
IC1
741
4
6
VR2
5k
4
3.3k
10k*
(SEE TEXT)
1k
3
Vdd
P0
P1
P3
2
3
IC2
5
PICAXE P2
-08M
SER 2
IN
P4
Vss
5
22k
8
H
L
E
10k
7
3.3k
10k
LED
SC
2005
LOGGER
OUTPUT
SIMPLE SEISMOGRAPH
1N4004
A
K
K
A
22k
IC2
PICAXE
3.3k
IC1
741
5
470F
470F
E L H
5k
10k
VR2
3.3k
470F
2
3
100nF
10k
K
CON2
LDR1
10k
A
LED1
(SLOT IN BOX ABOVE)
CON1
REG1
7805
10k
100
5002 ©
1k
9V DC IN
D1
19050140
(BEND LEADS
SO LED FACES
LDR1)
10k
1N4004
Fig.1: the circuit uses a light detector based on LED1 & LDR1 to detect movement of an interrupter vane placed
between them. The resulting signal is then amplified by IC1 and fed to the logger output. IC1 also drives IC2, a
PICAXE-08M chip programmed to function as an A/D converter. Its output can then be fed to the serial input of a
PC, to provide an alternative data logger.
DB9F
VR1
100k
LOGGER
OUT
Fig.2: install the parts on the PC board as shown here, making sure that all polarised parts are correctly oriented.
IC2, REG1, VR2 and CON2 can be left out if you already have an external data logger.
04105091
© 2005
Fig.3: this is the full-size etching pattern for the PC board.
32 Silicon Chip
lower resistance than others in the
presence of light and you may have to
adjust the value of the series resistor
accordingly.
That’s easy to do – just measure the
resistance of the LDR in a brightly lit
room and use a series resistor that’s
about the same value. The value isn’t
all that critical. In practice, you can
buy 1kW, 3.3kW and 10kW resistors
and use the one that’s closest to the
measured LDR value.
The LDR is mounted in similar
fashion to the LED – ie, bend its leads
down through 90° before installing it.
It should be mounted so that its face is
siliconchip.com.au
This view shows the fully
assembled PC board. Note the
arrangement for the LED & the LDR.
directly aligned with the LED.
Regulator REG1 is mounted with
its metal tab flat against the PC board.
To so this, bend its leads downwards
by 90° about 5mm from its body, then
secure it to the board using a 3M x
6mm machine screw and nut before
soldering its leads. There’s no need
for a heatsink, as it supplies just a few
milliamps to IC2.
The board assembly can now be
completed by fitting CON1, CON2,
potentiometer VR1 and a 3-pin header
for the external logger interface.
Serial cable options
A standard serial cable is used to
connect the PC board to the computer
(if you’re using a PC as the data logger).
There are several options here.
First, you could go out and buy a
serial cable but that’s the expensive
way of doing things. It’s far better to
scrounge a cable instead. For example,
if you have an old modem (left over
from your dial-up days), you can use
its serial cable (you did keep it, didn’t
you?) to connect to the PC.
Another possibility is to use a serial
cable from a discarded mouse. Just cut
the cable off close to the mouse, then
strip the wires back and use a multimeter to identify which lead goes to
which pin on the socket – you need
to use the leads that go to pins 2, 3 &
5 (the rest can be trimmed off).
These leads can then be soldered
directly to three PC stakes mounted
at the appropriate points on the PC
board. As a bonus, you don’t need the
siliconchip.com.au
Above: a slot is cut into
one end of the case to provide
access for the metal vane that’s
attached to the seisomograph bar.
on-board DBF9 socket, which means
you can save even more money.
Checks & adjustments
Before fitting the two ICs, it’s necessary to make several voltage checks.
First, connect a 9V DC plugpack supply and switch on. The LED should
immediately come on. If necessary,
adjust it so that it shines directly on
the LDR.
Next, use a digital multimeter to
check the voltages on IC1’s socket
pins. Pin 7 should be at the supply
voltage (about 9V, depending on the
plugpack), pin 2 should change when
the light to LDR is suddenly inter-
rupted and pin 3 should be at half
supply voltage. That done, check for
+5V on pin 1 of IC2’s socket and for
0V on pins 2, 3, 7 & 8.
If it all checks out so far, disconnect
the plugpack and install IC1 (but not
IC2). You now have to adjust trimpot
VR2 so that the voltage on pin 3 of IC2
can never exceed 5V. This is done as
follows:
(1) Connect a clip lead across the two
back-to-back 470mF capacitors (ie,
short them out);
(2) Set both VR1 and VR2 to their midrange positions;
(3) Place a piece of thick cardboard (or
other opaque object) between the LED
September 2005 33
Tectonic Plates, Earthquake Waves & The Richter Scale
”An earthquake is the way the Earth
relieves its stress by transferring it to
the people who live on it.” – Dr Lucy
Jones, USGS.
E
ARTHQUAKES occur when adjacent blocks of the Earth’s crust
slide past each other along a fracture
we call a fault line.
Most active faults are located
near the boundaries of the Earth’s
tectonic plates. These plates move
in several ways: (1) they can slide
past each other; (2) they can move
away from each other (diverge); or
(3) they can move towards each
other (converge).
For example, the west coast of New
Zealand’s South Island – which is at
the eastern edge of the AustralianIndian plate – moves north along
the Alpine Fault. This movement is
relative to the eastern side of the
island, which is part of the Pacific
plate. This area experiences several
magnitude five quakes every year, as
well as much larger but less frequent
earthquakes.
Plate divergence generally occurs
at mid-ocean ridges such as the
Atlantic’s, which rises above sea-level
to form Iceland’s central rift valley.
Convergence occurs at “subduction zones” like the one that caused
Aceh’s Boxing Day earthquake. Here,
the northern edge of the AustralianIndian plate is descending under
Indonesia, which is part of the Eurasian Plate.
While most active faults are located
near plate margins, about 10% of
active faults occur well away from
the plate margins. The earthquakes
generated in these locations are
known as intra-plate earthquakes
and are mostly thought to occur either
as a response to stress transmitted
through the plate from its interaction
with adjacent plates or from thermal
equilibration, which can cause con-
and the LDR (to block the light);
(4) Reapply power and check the voltage at pin 6 of IC1. It should be about
1V less than the supply rail;
(5) Monitor the voltage at pin 3 of IC2’s
socket and adjust VR2 for a reading of
4V (or slightly less).
34 Silicon Chip
traction as the plate cools down or
expansion as the plate warms up. The
Northern Territory’s Tennant Creek
fault is a world-famous example of
one of these intra-plate structures
and generates a number of generally
small earthquakes each year.
Several types of vibrations are
generated as blocks of rock grind
past each other during an earthquake
and these propagate around and
through the planet as different types
of earthquake waves. The fastest
(and the first to arrive) are “Primary”
or P-waves, which are longitudinal
compressional waves that propagate
at speeds of 1.5-8km/s (depending on
rock density). The next fastest are the
“Secondary” or S-waves which are
shear waves (or transverse waves)
and these propagate at speeds of
about 3.2-4.8km/s.
Both P and S-waves move through
the body of the planet and are
refracted and reflected as they encounter rock density and composition
changes. However, S-waves cannot
propagate through the liquid part of
the Earth’s core. In fact, it was by
examining the geographic pattern of
P-waves and S-waves that led to the
formulation of the core-mantle-crust
model of the Earth.
The slowest waves are surface
waves, which propagate at speeds of
about 2-5km/s. There are two types
of surface waves: Rayleigh and Love
(L) waves. It’s the shear and surface
waves that generally cause the damage associated with earthquakes.
By measuring the time gap between the arrival of the P and S
waves, it’s possible to calculate how
far away the earthquake was from the
seismograph. This is roughly 500km
for every minute between their arrival.
The location of the epicentre is determined by a form of “triangulation”.
To do this, a circle corresponding
to the calculated distance is drawn
Once that’s done, disconnect the
plugpack and install the PICACE-08M,
with its notch facing to the left – see
Fig.2.
Final assembly
The PC board is designed to fit
around at least three different seismograph locations on a map of the
region. Where the circles intersect
is the likely epicentre. Most earthquakes occur at depths of less than
100km.
P waves have higher frequencies and are best detected with a
“Short Period (one second or less)
Vertical Seismograph”, while S, L
and Rayleigh waves have lower frequencies and are best detected by a
“Long Period (10 seconds or longer)
Seismograph”, such as the design
described here. Professional seismic
stations have short, long and wideband seismographs mounted northsouth, east-west and also vertically,
with both low and high-sensitivity
detectors.
Analysis and filtering of the seismic patterns allows the arrival of
each type of wave to be determined
from the mixture of P, S, L and Rayleigh waves, reflections (PP and
SS waves), refracted waves and
alternative path surface waves. Our
seismograph with a 1-second (or 10
second) sample rate, will probably
only detect S waves and the much
larger displacement L waves and
Rayleigh waves. If you live very close
to the action, such as in NZ or PNG,
you might also detect P waves.
The Richter value, devised by
Charles Richter in 1935, is basically
a logarithmic measuring scale. It’s
calculated according to the largest ground motion waves that are
detected 100km from the epicentre
of the earthquake. Because the
scale is logarithmic, a magnitude 7
earthquake has 10 times the ground
motion (and more than 30 times the
energy) of a magnitude 6 quake.
The Aceh Earthquake measured
9.0 on the Richter scale and released many thousands of times more
energy than the 5.6 Newcastle earthquake of 1989.
inside a standard UB3 utility case.
It’s mounted on the lid on four 9mm
untapped spacers and secured using
M3 x 15mm long screws and nuts.
That done, you have to make a cutout in one end of the case to provide
clearance for the DBF9 socket (CON2)
siliconchip.com.au
and the pot shaft. This cutout measures
45mm long x 12mm high and is about
12mm from the lip of the base.
Alternatively, if you’re not using
CON2, the serial cable can be run
through a small hole in the case and
secured using a small cable tie. The
same applies if you are connecting an
external logger to the 3-pin header.
You also need a hole directly in-line
with the DC power socket (CON1).
This is horizontally centred 17mm
from the lip of the case and should be
drilled and reamed to 8mm.
Finally, a slot must be cut in the
case in line with the light sensor to
provide access for the vane that’s attached to the bar. This slot should be
positioned 37mm from the end of the
case and can be about 4mm wide. The
unit can then be assembled into the
case and attached to the base of the
seismograph.
Position the vane so that it normally
blocks about half the light between the
LED and the LDR.
Programming the PICAXE
To program the PICAXE, you first
have to download the free “Programming Editor” from www.rev-ed.co.uk/
picaxe
That done, connect the board to
your computer via the serial cable
(this should be done with the computer off) and download the simple
program shown in Listing 1 into the
PICAXE chip.
If you increase the logging interval
to 10 seconds by changing line 5 to
“wait 10”, you can keep a continuous
seismograph record for up to a week.
You could also hang a piezo transducer
off the PICAXE and add an “Alarm”
loop to the program to warn you if b1
exceeds a certain value.
Once the program is loaded and
running in the PICAXE-08M (check
by looking at the “debug” screen), you
must close down the PICAXE Programming Editor to free the COM Port, so
that the StampPlot Lite program can
use it. StampPlot Lite is available free
from www.selmaware.com
Fig.3: this simulated plot of an earthquake was produced during final sensitivity
tests of the seismograph. A gentle puff of air aimed towards the seismograph
masses from two metres away produced the first “earthquake” waves, while
similar puffs from one metre gave the full scale deflection.
(3). Click on “Connect” and “Plot
Data” – the program should immediately begin to graph the values sent by
the PICAXE-08M. You can test this by
blowing on the bar from a distance of
about one metre. Adjust the sensitivity
control (VR1) for full-scale deflection.
The “action” near the bottom of the
screen indicates that data is being
collected.
(4). Set the maximum number of points
to 200,000 or higher.
(5). A “Time Span” of 400 seconds will
show each swing of the bar during testing but increasing this to 25,600 will
let you see most of a night’s recording. Australia is normally a long way
from the action and different types
of earthquake waves will continue to
arrive for more than an hour after a
distant quake.
(6). Click on “Save data to file” so the
program saves the data as a .txt file.
siliconchip.com.au
Acknowledgement: thanks to Dr Tom
Hubble of the University of Sydney for
his geological knowledge and neighbours Jo and Manfred for computing
and design assistance.
Program Listing 1
Using StampPlot Lite
StampPlot Lite is the logging program. Once it’s installed, you need to
carry out the following steps:
(1). Set the COM port so that it’s the
same as the port that connects to the
PICAXE.
(2). Change the Baud rate to 4800.
(7). Click on “Clear min/max on reset” and you will be able to see if any
values have been detected that are
significantly above the background
line (ie, an earthquake) and when
this occurred (approximately). If you
deselect “Connect” and “Plot Data” to
stop the recording, you can look back
at stored parts of the graph by moving
the bar next to “Enable Shift”. The running graph can be seen on the screen
and “.txt” values can be exported to
Excel and graphed.
(8). Click on “Time Stamp” so that
Excel will show “Time” on the graphs.
Good luck and I hope that the Earth
SC
moves for you.
main:
readadc10 4, b1
debug b1
sertxd (#b1,cr,lf)
wait 1
goto main
'makes an A-D conversion of the value at input 4 and sends to b1
'allows you to see the value at b1 on the Picaxe debug screen
'sends the value of b1 out to the StampPlot Lite program
'sets the time gap in seconds between readings
'makes the program loop back to the start
September 2005 35
Minimise the risk of boating explosions
Bilge
Sniffer
by
John Clarke
Messin’ about in boats is one of the world’s favourite leisure
activities. Yet far too regularly, we see in the news stories about
injuries and deaths when boats blow up due to fuel vapours in the
bilges. This little sensor/alarm unit is designed to let you know
about this danger before you turn the key . . .
M
otorboat explosions and fires
are the largest single cause
of marine property damage.
The hazards are due to the presence
of flammable liquids within poorly
ventilated spaces, such as the bilge.
Petrol is the major hazard, whether
by leakage, spills, the use of poor
storage containers or even downright
stupidity. With the right mixture of
petrol and air, a small spark (even
from a switch), a cigarette or match,
36 Silicon Chip
or even electrical failure can cause an
explosion that can literally blow the
boat apart.
As an extra danger, the petrol vapour is heavier than air and tends
to collect in lower areas of the boat.
Consequently, a small leak or spill
can present a significant hazard for
explosion and fire.
To blow up, the mixture of petrol
vapour and air must be within a
certain (and quite limited) range of
fuel-to-air ratios. The lower explosive
limit (LEL) is 1.4% by volume and the
upper explosive limit (UEL) is 7.6%.
Above and below these limits, the fuel
will not explode.
With diesel fuel, the explosion risk
is significantly reduced – although it is
still significant. This is due to diesel’s
higher flash point, which prevents it
from readily evaporating and producing a flammable mixture. The LEL for
diesel fuel is typically 3.5% by volume
siliconchip.com.au
It’s very cheap insurance!
Fit it to your boat and it could save it –
or your life. It can automatically turn on
bilge exhaust fans when explosive gases are detected.
and the UEL is 6.9%; ie, a higher LEL
and a smaller range than petrol.
While the reduced range makes it
harder for diesel fuel to explode, it
can still happen. In the heat of summer, for example, temperatures within
the boat compartments may be raised
sufficiently to provide the right conditions for an explosion.
In addition to engine fuels, boats
often have propane gas cylinders for
fuelling stoves, on-deck barbecues,
and so on.
This too can be a fire and explosion
hazard. Propane will explode with an
air/fuel ratio by volume of between
2.5% and 4.5%. Once again, because
propane is heavier than air, a leak can
create an explosive mixture in lower
boat compartments.
The bilge
Ahoy, me hearties. Throw ’em down
in the bilges. . .
OK, pirate movies are about as close
as the great unwashed ever come to a
bilge. But what is it?
It’s the lowest area of the boat,
closest to the water. Often the bilge
is actually under a floor (between the
floor and the outer hull), so it can be
almost inaccessible. In a large motor
siliconchip.com.au
boat, it’s almost certainly right under
the engine.
Being the lowest point in the boat,
the heavier-than-air fuel mixture tends
to concentrate here.
Any ingress or leakage of water
through the hull (and there almost
always is some, especially in timber
boats!) congregates there (and that water can really go “off”!). On a big ship,
it’s where the rats love to nest. With a
mixture of rancid water, oil, fuel and
all manner of dirt, it can often be an
unpleasant, foul-smelling place.
All boat owners should be aware
that the bilge is by far the most dangerous area of the boat, as far as explosive
gasses are concerned.
Even if the fuel is mixed with the
bilge water there is no guarantee of
safety: all fuels float on water and so
vapours are still likely be released
into the air.
Ideally, boats should include bilge
ventilation to expel any inflammable
gases that will inevitably accumulate,
even if correct refuelling methods are
used and leaks/spillage minimised.
However, ventilation on its own is
usually not enough to guarantee safety.
Exhaust fans should also be used to
remove the potential explosive gases
before starting the engine.
Many boat owners have bilge exhausts that are run “as a matter of
course” for perhaps a minute or so
before the engines are started – just
in case.
But wouldn’t it be better to know for
certain, one way or the other, if there
are dangerous gases down below?
That’s what the SILICON CHIP Bilge
Sniffer is designed to do.
What’s more, it can be set up to
automatically start an exhaust fan if
dangerous levels of hydrocarbons –
that’s any fuel or gas – are detected.
It could also be made to be part of the
engine start or ignition circuit, locking
out the engine if hydrocarbons were
detected.
That could be a boon for hire craft
operators who cannot guarantee hirers
will wait for gases to be cleared before
starting the engine.
The “on” time of any exhaust fan
is important because bilge fuel levels
might be above the upper explosive
limit and therefore offer little risk of
explosion.
If the fan sucks out only some of
the gases, the level might be reduced
to where it is bang (literally!) in the
middle of the danger zone.
September 2005 37
REG1 7805
+5V
OUT
IN
GND
10 µF
+
100 µF
16V
D1 1N4004
10Ω
+11.4V (nom)
ZD1
16V
1W
OPTIONAL
12V
DASH SIREN
K
A
+12V
(nom)
0.5W
0V
–
+11.4V
A
+5V
K
SENSOR1
MG-3
HYDROCARBON
SENSOR
H
A
B
H
CALIBRATE
8
2
IC1a
2.2k
1
K
A
5
6
IC1b
4
MG-3
BILGE SNIFFER/ALARM
A
10k
IN4004
A
H
SC
10k
7
LED
B
NC
COM
NO
HYSTERESIS D2 1N4148
VR2 500k
ALARM
LEVEL
VR3
10k
10k
2005
NC
COM
NO
IC1: LM358
3
VR1
50k
D3
1N4004 A
2.2k
10 µF
16V
RLY 1
K
λ 100 µF
16V
LED1
B
C
E
BC337
Q1
BC337
E B C
GND
K
OUT
B
H
A
A
K
ZD1
1N4148
A
K
7805
IN
A
K
Fig.1: the hydrocarbon sensor’s resistance is monitored by op amp IC1a. When gas is detected, transistor Q1 is switched
on, pulling in a relay. What you do from then on is up to you! The dash siren is optional – see text.
Therefore, the sniffer is designed
to keep removing gases while ever
it senses any hydrocarbons; ie, until
they are well under the lower explosion limit.
The hydrocarbons that can be detected include iso-butane, propane
and LPG, as well as petrol and diesel
fuel.
The sensor itself is encapsulated
in a plastic housing with a stainless
steel mesh cover which provides antiexplosion protection.
It has an aluminium oxide ceramic
tube that is coated with a tin dioxide
sensitive layer, along with a heating
element. Electrodes attached to the
sensitive layer provide the gas sensing
terminals.
The semiconductor sensor changes
its resistance between two measuring
electrodes in the presence of the appropriate vapour, with the resistance
decreasing with increasing gas concentration.
Circuit details
The circuit for the Bilge Sniffer is
shown in Fig.1. Operation is quite
38 Silicon Chip
simple: the sensor is monitored by
IC1, which controls transistor Q1.
This switches the relay at a preset
hydrocarbon concentration.
One of the electrodes from the sensor connects to the 5V supply while
the other end connects to the calibration potentiometer (VR1) and series
10kW resistor.
In operation, the sensor electrodes
present a certain resistance at various
hydrocarbon concentrations and this
resistance sets a voltage due to the
divider action of VR1 and the 10kW
resistor.
Typically, the voltage is around 2V
at 0.1% hydrocarbon concentration
when VR1 is set at 10kW.
IC1a is an op amp connected as a
unity gain buffer, which monitors the
sensor voltage at the top of VR1 and
the 10kW resistor. IC1a’s output drives
the non-inverting input of IC1b which
is wired as a comparator.
Pin 6 of IC1b connects to the alarm
level trimpot, VR3. Wired directly
across the 5V supply, this trimpot
can set the level anywhere between
0V and 5V. When the voltage at IC1a’s
output goes above the voltage set by
VR3, then IC1b’s output goes high, to
a little less than 12V.
Diode D2 then conducts and the
pin 5 input of IC1b is pulled slightly
higher than the pin 1 output of IC1a
due to the voltage divider action of
VR2 and the 2.2kW resistor connecting to pin 5.
Built-in hysteresis, set by VR2, prevents IC1b’s output from “hunting”, or
switching high and low at a rapid rate
at the threshold where IC1a’s output
equals the level set by VR3.
The output of IC1b drives the base
of Q1 via a 10kW resistor. The 10kW
resistor from base to ground ensures
that Q1 is off when IC1b’s output is
low.
Transistor Q1 drives relay RLY1.
The common and normally open
contacts close, turning on the ventilation fans. LED1 also lights to indicate
whenever the relay is on. Diode D3
quenches the back-EMF produced
by the relay coil when Q1 switches
off. Note the relay should be a sealed
(ie flameproof) type if it is to be used
anywhere near explosive gases.
siliconchip.com.au
K
K
A
100 µF
H
10 µF
500k
2.2k
B
VR1
50k
K
D2
C
CN
4148
10k
100 µF
10 µF
K
A D3
Q1
siliconchip.com.au
ON
A
10k
We have also shown an optional 12V
siren wired across the relay coil. There
would almost certainly be times when
a LED might not be noticed (especially
in daylight) and we would imagine
that the skipper would like to know
that there is something not quite right
down in the bilges just as soon as it
happened!
Any small 12V warning siren or
buzzer would be satisfactory here –
they draw very little current for a lot
of noise! No provision is made on the
PC board for this – it would most easily be connected directly across D3.
If the buzzer or siren is polarised, the
“+” side would connect to the cathode
of the diode. Of course, such a buzzer
could also be switched by one of the
sets of relay contacts if you didn’t need
them for something else.
Power for the circuit is provided
from a 12V supply. This would normally be from the boat’s 12V battery.
The supply is reverse-polarity protected using diode D1 and protected
from transient voltages using a series
10W resistor and the 16V zener diode,
ZD1.
K
rab/tod
VR2
A
SENSOR1
H
A
2.2k
ZD1
LED1
10k
10k
K
0V
A
VR3
IC1
LM358
REG1
+12V
NO
RELAY 1
15090150
The 100mF capacitor filters the incoming voltage and REG1 regulates
the voltage down to 5V for the sensor’s
heater coil. This coil has a resistance
of 33W, so the current drawn from the
5V supply is around 150mA.
Note that both the 12V supply (and
indeed the 11.4V supply) are labelled
“nominal” because these could be
higher, depending on the state of
charge of the boat battery – up to about
14V. The 11.4V rail is simply 0.6V less
than the supply rail (the 0.6V being
dropped across D1).
24 or 48V boat supplies
If you are really well-heeled, you
might have one of those floating palaces with a 24V or even a 48V DC boat
supply. . . in which case, you have
even more to lose than those of us
with little putt-putts and tinnies. You
really need the Bilge Sniffer!
Naturally, the Bilge Sniffer cannot be
powered from these higher rails direct
but it would be a very unusual “big
boat” not to have a derived 12V(ish)
supply somewhere for such things
as two-way radios, entertainment
R OS NES GPL/L O H O CLA
10Ω
CN
D1
C ON
A
COM
CONTACTS 1
NC
NO
COM
CONTACTS 2
NC
Fig.2: component
overlay and matching
photograph below.
The gas sensor is the
large silver object at
lower left.
The relay needs to be
a completely sealed
type if you are going
to mount the PC
board anywhere near
where explosive gases
might congregate.
Don’t worry about
the unused holes in
this PC board – we
explain why in the
text!
systems, etc. We’re only talking a few
hundred milliamps maximum so it
shouldn’t cause any overloads!
Failing this, you could add a suitable DC-DC converter.
Construction
The Bilge Sniffer is constructed onto
a PC board coded 05109051, measuring 123 x 60mm. It has its four corners
removed and shaped to allow it to fit
into a plastic UB3 box measuring 130
x 67 x 44mm. Power is connected via a
figure-8 lead that attaches to the boat’s
12V supply via an in-line fuse.
Begin construction by checking the
PC board. Check that the corners of the
PC board have been shaped correctly
so that the PC board can be fitted into
the box.
First, install the six resistors, making sure the correct value is placed in
each position. You can use the accompanying resistor colour-code table to
check the values or use a multimeter
to measure them.
When placing the regulator and IC,
make sure they are oriented correctly.
A heatsink is attached to the regulator
September 2005 39
the power screw connector and relay
contact connections.
Connect the figure-8 power lead to
the 12V terminals.
We didn’t find any need to screw
the PC board into the case – it sits
snugly inside the four corner pillars
and on the recesses in the moulded
slots in the case side. When the lid is
scrwed on, it virtually locks the PC
board in place.
Parts List – Bilge Sniffer
1 PC board, code 05109051,
123 x 60mm
1 UB3 box (130 x 67 x 44mm)
1 MQ-6 hydrocarbon gas sensor
(Jaycar RS-5610) (Sensor 1)
1 12V 5A DPDT PC-mount
sealed relay (RLY 1)
1 mini heatsink, 19 x 19 x 10mm
1 M3 x 10mm screw and nut
4 2-way PC-mount screw
terminal blocks
6 PC stakes
1 200mm length of light-duty
figure-8 polarised wire
1 150mm length of 0.8mm tinned
copper wire
Semiconductors
1 LM358, TL072 dual op amp
(IC1)
1 7805 5V regulator (REG1)
1 5mm red LED (LED1)
1 BC337 NPN transistor (Q1)
2 1N4004 1A diodes (D1,D3)
1 1N4148 diode (D2)
1 16V 1W zener diode (ZD1)
Capacitors
2 100mF 16V electrolytic
2 10mF 16V electrolytic
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
3 10kW
2 2.2kW
1 10W (0.5W)
1 500kW horizontal trimpot (VR2)
(code 504)
1 50kW horizontal trimpot (VR1)
(code 503)
1 10kW horizontal trimpot (VR3)
(code 103)
using an M3 x 10mm screw plus an
M3 nut, with its flanges oriented so
that they point towards the edge of
the PC board.
When mounting the electrolytic
capacitors, ensure they are oriented as
shown on the overlay diagram. Similarly with the diodes: solder them in
place with the orientation shown. Terminal blocks for the power connection
and relay contacts can also be installed,
along with the trimpots.
Use PC stakes and tinned copper
wire (eg, resistor lead cut-offs) to hold
the sensor in position above the PC
board (see photo). The sensor can be
mounted either way around, as the pin
connections are symmetrical.
The top of the sensor should be
40 Silicon Chip
Testing
The gas sensor itself is mounted up off
the PC board, on PC stakes and tinned
copper wire, so its “nose” pokes
through the lid of the box.
35mm above the PC board to allow it
to poke through the jiffy box lid. For
the same reason, mount LED1 so that
its top is 32mm above the PC board.
Construction of the PC board is
now complete. Check that your board
agrees with both the overlay diagram
and the photographs, and also check
your soldering for bridges or dry
joints.
Don’t worry about the large number
of unused holes in the PC board – this
board will also be used for another
project in a coming issue (the holes
are primarily for a LED bargraph and
driver IC).
Using the front panel artwork as a
guide (a photocopy temporarily stuck
to the lid is ideal), drill or ream a 16mm
diameter hole in the box lid for the
sensor and a 5mm diameter hole for
LED1. Also drill out a hole in each
end of the box adjacent to the terminal
blocks suitable for the wiring entry to
Apply power to the Bilge Sniffer and
check that there is +5V at the output
of REG1 with respect to the ground.
Similarly, check that pin 8 of IC1 is
around 12V.
Before further use, the Bilge Sniffer
should be left powered up for about 24
hours. This allows the heater inside
the hydrocarbon sensor to burn off
impurities that have collected onto the
sensing element during manufacture
and while in storage.
The Sniffer can be tested after a few
minutes of purging by waving an open
bottle of air and petrol over the sensor. Just a couple of drops of petrol in
an empty 2-3 litre milk bottle will be
sufficient (but take care as this mixture
can be explosive!).
With VR1 set mid-way, exposure to
this mixture should see the voltage
across the sensor (measured at pin 3
of IC1a) rise to around 1V or so.
Setting up
The Bilge Sniffer should be set up
so that the relay switches on when
it detects even small amounts of hydrocarbons in the air. In this way, the
The shaped PC board
slots into the recesses in the vertical
mouldings inside the jiffy box and is
held in place when the lid is screwed on.
siliconchip.com.au
exhaust fan can be operated to
keep the remnants of hydrocarbons to a minimum.
First, set VR3 so that the
ALARM
wiper is at 200mV and set
VR1 to its maximum (fully
clockwise). This will provide
maximum sensitivity for the
sensor.
Now set VR2 to mid setting
and test that the relay switches
on when the sensor is exposed
to the milk bottle petrol vapour
and that the relay switches off
not long after the bottle is taken
SILICON
away (ie, when the sensor is
exposed to fresh air).
CHIP www.siliconchip.com.au
Set trimpot VR2 more anticlockwise if the relay does not Fig.3: same-size artwork for the front panel and the PC board. The panel artwork is also
useful as a template for drilling the holes in the lid for the sensor and LED.
switch off.
The common and normally
K
A
open relay contacts are wired in
series with the exhaust fan wiring
so that the fans will run when these
contacts close.
For a belt’n’braces approach, a
dot/bar
NO
separate switch can be installed in
parallel with the relay contacts so
C
that the fans can be run manually
NC
before starting the boat’s engine.
Note that each relay contact is
rated at 5A, which should suit all
but the highest-volume fans. There
are two sets of contacts which can
05109051
be wired in parallel if more current
than the 5A is required – or additional fans powered.
Ignition cutout
If you find that the exhaust fans
a false sense of security and becomes
run continuously, you may need to
It has been suggested that the Bilge too complacent to actually check the
increase the alarm level by turning
Sniffer could be incorporated into bilges before starting out (every good
VR3 further anticlockwise. This will
the boat’s ignition circuit so that the boat owner should know the value of
cause the fans to run less often.
motor couldn’t even be turned over if the “nose test” before starting engines
Trimpot VR2 may need to be turned
– you should never rely on electronics
hydrocarbons were present.
further anticlockwise to reduce hysFrankly, we are in two minds about alone!).
teresis and cause the fans to run for a
If you do want to wire the Bilge
this – especially in the “what if” deshorter time. But before you do this,
Sniffer to disable the engine(s) on a
partment.
make sure the Bilge Sniffer is not trying
What if the relay (or sensor) failed fuel vapour alarm, you would wire the
to tell you that you have a problem!
and you couldn’t start the boat when boat’s ignition switch (not the starter
To run the fans for a longer time, set
or the high voltage line!) via the “noryou needed to?
VR2 more clockwise – but make sure
What if the Bilge Sniffer sensed a mally closed” sets of contacts.
that the fans will switch off when the
This would have the motor powered
fuel spill and operated correctly, cuthydrocarbon levels are reduced.
ting the engines – but at the time the in the normal way but when hydrocarSetting VR2 too far clockwise will
boat was, say, crossing a bar? What bons were detected, the relay would pull
cause the fans to run all the time once
in, opening the normally closed contacts
would be the worst evil?
SC
the alarm level has been reached.
What if the owner gets lulled into and shutting off the engine.
BILGE
SNIFFER
NO C
NC
ALCOHOL/LPG SENSOR
Resistor Colour Codes
1
1
1
No.
3
2
1
siliconchip.com.au
Value
10kW
2.2kW
10W
4-band code (1%)
brown black orange brown
red red red brown
brown black black brown
5-band code (1%)
brown black black red brown
red red black brown brown
brown black black gold brown
September 2005 41
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions from
readers are welcome and will be paid for at standard rates.
Antenna input & audio line-out adaptor
for portable radios
Here is an idea for a simple lowcost adaptor that allows a portable
FM radio (or MP3 player with FM
tuner) to be connected to an external
antenna and to audio equipment
such as a hifi system or PC sound
card.
Portable FM radios and some
MP3 players typically provide a
3.5mm stereo jack socket for the
headphone connection, with the
shield conductor of the headphone
cable doubling as an antenna.
The problem
Recently, the author bought a
cheap FM radio with a USB connector, designed to be operated with a
PC. The package included an audio
cable with a 3.5mm stereo phone
plug at each end. The plug that goes
into the radio has an additional
wire (about 2m long) hanging out
of it, which is meant to serve as an
indoor antenna.
When using the supplied cable,
the system suffered from poor radio
reception (too much interference),
42 Silicon Chip
and poor audio quality (lack of
bass).
The first problem was easily explained, as the radio was used in
a marginal TV/FM reception area.
When the cable was “buzzed out”,
the reason for the second problem
became apparent. There was no audio ground connection, as the cable
screen is not connected to anything
at the radio end!
As mentioned, the antenna wire
in these units is connected to the
“common” terminal of the 3.5mm
socket, which normally doubles as
the audio signal return path. If this
terminal were to be connected to
the ground of external audio equipment, the antenna signal would be
clobbered.
Perhaps the designer of this cable
assumed that an adequate audio
ground connection would be made
indirectly via the USB cable – a poor
assumption!
The challenge
The challenge then was to pro-
Michae
vide a good
l
is this m Bauer
antenna signal
on
winner th’s
for the radio
Peak At of a
las
while at the
Instrum Test
ent
same time making a good audio
ground connection
to external equipment. Preferably,
this was to be achieved without
relying on the USB connector (because not all FM radios have one)
and without having to mess with
the radio’s internal works. The accompanying circuit diagram shows
how this can be achieved.
The radio-frequency choke (L1)
has a low impedance at audio frequencies, thereby making an audio
ground path to the line output sockets from the radio’s antenna input
(“common” terminal). Conversely,
the RFC presents a high impedance to the RF antenna signal, so
preventing it from being shorted
to ground.
The antenna signal is coupled to
the radio via two 220pF polystyrene
(or ceramic) capacitors, which also
block low-frequency interference
(eg, mains hum). Note that the
design relies on the capacitance
in the audio cable to couple the
antenna “ground” (cable shield) to
the radio’s internal “ground”.
Building it
To build the adaptor, simply
mount the parts in a small plastic
box and wire up as shown. A suitable choke is available from Jaycar
(Cat. No. LF-1534). The leads going
to the 3.5mm plug should be no
longer than about 100mm and need
not be shielded.
With a good TV/FM antenna, the
author’s unit performed remarkably
well, even in a poor FM reception
area. The audio frequency response
and signal-to-noise ratio were surprisingly good considering the low
cost of the radio (about $40).
Michael Bauer,
Prahran, Vic.
siliconchip.com.au
Automatic alternate
motor switch
This circuit was designed to allow
two motors to run on an alternate
day-by-day basis. An off-the-shelf
time clock dictates the running time
and frequency of operation.
In the author’s application, the
circuit uses two 240VAC, 16A relays
(RLY2 & RLY3) for motor control but
these do not directly switch power
to the motors. Instead, the relays
control two 415VAC contactors
which themselves provide power
to two high-voltage motors.
Power for the control circuit is
provided by a small 12VAC mains
transformer. Its output is rectified,
filtered and then regulated to +12V
and +5V by REG1 and REG2.
Operation begins with the closing
siliconchip.com.au
of the remotely located time-clock
contacts (S2). With mode selector
switch S1 in the “Auto” position,
this energises 5V relay RLY1 and
provides +12V to the top of the two
output relays (RLY2 & RLY3).
When RLY1 changes over, the
logic levels of pins 2 & 6 of the
NOR gates in IC1 reverse, causing
the output at pin 4 to go low. The
purpose of IC1 is to remove the effects of relay contact bounce, so that
a clean clock signal is fed into pin 3
of J-K flipflop IC2.
As both the J and K inputs of
the 4027 are connected to +5V, it
functions as a toggle flipflop. When
power is first applied, either one of
it’s outputs (Q or Q-bar) will be high,
switching on transistor Q2 or Q4
and energising the associated motor
relay. After the programmed motor
run period, the time-clock contacts
open and RLY1 switches off. The
output (pin 4) of IC1 now goes high,
toggling the flipflop and effectively
enabling the alternate motor relay
for the next time cycle.
Each output circuit also features
a separate LED indicator (LED1 &
LED2, driven by Q1 & Q3). These
are powered from the +5V rail and
indicate which motor will run next
in the cycle. Provision has also been
made for remote mounting of a pair
of indicator LEDs, where required.
Finally, the 3-pole, 4-position
rotary switch (S1) includes two
manual settings to provide a means
of “locking out” an out-of-service
motor. By switching to either the
“Manual 1” or “Manual 2” positions,
only the in-service motor will run
at each closure of the time-clock
contacts.
Jeff Jorgensen,
eptember
Bundaberg, SQld.
($50) 2005 43
Circuit Notebook – Continued
Filter for “ripple
control” mains tones
Ever since the 1950s, electric power
utilities have been using a technique
known as “ripple control” to remotely
manage the operation of off-peak water heaters, street lighting and other
reduced-tariff loads. Ripple control
involves low-speed signalling over the
power lines, using bursts of relatively
low frequency audio tones superimposed on the AC mains voltage.
You can often hear “beeps” resulting from these tones emanating from the tone-operated relays
or sequencers on domestic power
switchboards, and sometimes even
from radiators, fluorescent light ballasts and electric fan motors. The following tone frequencies are used in
Australia for ripple control, depending on the distribution company and
area: 1050Hz, 750Hz, 492Hz, 396Hz,
283Hz and 167Hz.
Some readers have reported problems caused by these tones finding
their way into home theatre and PA
systems (and even some computers)
and have asked for information on
building suitable filters. This isn’t
as easy as it sounds, partly because
of the number of different frequencies involved. The filter also needs
to have very low insertion loss for
the 50Hz mains power itself, so it
doesn’t waste energy or lower the
voltage fed to the load.
After carrying out several tests,
we developed the circuit shown. Although simple, it’s very effective and
provides about 34dB of rejection (ie,
50:1 attenuation) for the tone frequency you want to reject, coupled
with almost no insertion loss at the
50Hz mains frequency.
The filter uses the bridged-T notch
filter configuration, with the 15V
secondary winding of a small power
transformer acting as the inductor.
The winding is straddled with a pair
of equal-value capacitors (C1 & C2)
wired in series. A variable resistor
(VR1) connected from the junction
of the capacitors to the neutral line
forms the tuning/balance control,
allowing you to fine-tune the filter
for maximum rejection at the desired
control tone frequency.
The capacitor values shown in
the table for the four highest control
tones used in Australia were found
experimentally using a “2155” type
transformer sold by Jaycar Electronics (Cat. No. MM-2002). The values
for the two lowest frequencies have
been estimated from the measured
inductance of this transformer’s 15V
secondary winding but should be reasonably close. Note that all capacitor
values may need to be changed if you
use a different transformer.
The capacitors should be metallised polypropylene types rated
Use this table
to select the
capacitor values
to suit the control
tone frequency in
your area.
44 Silicon Chip
for 250VAC operation and preferably
with a “class X2” rating. However,
the higher capacitance values may
be difficult to obtain with a 250VAC
rating, so you may have to substitute
630V DC rated types instead. We’ve
included a table to show how parallel combinations of smaller values
could be used to achieve the necessary capacitance, all when using the
Jaycar MM-2002 transformer.
If you do use a different transformer, you will need to select the
correct capacitor values experimentally. This isn’t as difficult as it
sounds. First, feed the output of an
audio oscillator or signal generator
through a small amplifier to provide
a good low impedance source of the
tone frequency you need to reject.
An output level of about 10-20V
RMS will be sufficient.
Next, connect the amplifier output
to the input lines of the filter (in place
of the mains supply) and connect a
220W 5W resistor across the output
lines as a dummy load. You can then
hook up your digital multimeter or
’scope across the load resistor to
monitor the output signal level.
You will then be able to experiment with the values for capacitors
C1 and C2 (and settings for VR1)
until you achieve maximum rejection of the tone frequency. Ideally,
the correct capacitor values will
reduce the output voltage to about
1/50th of the input voltage at the
test frequency.
One last point; how do you find out
which tone frequency is being used
in your area? The first place to look
is the ripple control decoder box on
your own power board. These often
have a nameplate showing the control
frequency in use. However, if this
isn’t the case, you could try asking
your power utility company.
WARNING: Do not use this circuit. Due to a major oversight, this
circuit was not tested at 240VAC
which would have highlighted the
following drawback. Regardless
of the values of the capacitors selected for the ciruit, their reactance
will be quite low, resulting in the
application of high voltage to the
2W potentiometer which will fail
at switch-on.
Jim Rowe,
SILICON CHIP.
siliconchip.com.au
PICAXE RGB
LED display
Having seen the 5mm RGB LEDs
that automatically cycle through 7
colours (red, blue, light blue, pink,
white & yellow), one of our readers has asked how this could be
improved upon using a PICAXE08M. Shouldn’t it be possible to
generate many more colours using
the power of the PICAXE and an
ordinary RGB LED?
While it is possible to generate a
range of colours (many more than
7) using pulse-width modulation
to vary LED intensity, the PICAXE08M supports full-function PWM
on one pin only (using the pwmout
command). Nevertheless, there are
a number of other ways that three
PWM outputs can be generated.
PICAXE BASIC is not particularly
fast for a task like this, so you could
resort to programming the PIXAXE08M in native (PIC12F683 assembly
language) mode.
Another way is to compromise
and use the more limited pwm com-
mand. It works on any of the -08M
output pins but as it only operates
on one pin at a time, it’s necessary
to multiplex between the three LEDs
(colours).
An example program demonstrating this is below, while the circuit
shows the LED connections. The
program could easily be expanded
for a more elaborate display.
Using this method (each LED on
for about one third of the time),
the average LED current is about
one third maximum, so you could
run the LEDs at higher than their
maximum continuous current rating to obtain a brighter display.
The red LED current may have to
be trimmed to get a good colour
balance.
SILICON CHIP.
Program Listing
' RGB LED Demo for PICAXE-08M
' Change next three lines to suit
' LED to PICAXE pin assignments.
symbol red_led
=1
symbol green_led = 4
symbol blue_led = 2
setfreq m8
b0 = 0
b1 = 0
b2 = 0
main:
for b3 = 0 to 254
b0 = b0 + 1
pwm red_led,b0,1
pwm green_led,b1,1
pwm blue_led,b2,1
next b3
loop:
for b3 = 0 to 254
b1 = b1 + 1
pwm red_led,b0,1
pwm green_led,b1,1
pwm blue_led,b2,1
next b3
for b3 = 0 to 254
b2 = b2 + 1
pwm red_led,b0,1
pwm green_led,b1,1
pwm blue_led,b2,1
next b3
for b3 = 0 to 254
b1 = b1 - 1
pwm red_led,b0,1
pwm green_led,b1,1
pwm blue_led,b2,1
next b3
for b3 = 0 to 254
b2 = b2 - 1
pwm red_led,b0,1
pwm green_led,b1,1
pwm blue_led,b2,1
next b3
Contribute And Choose Your Prize
As you can see, we pay good
money for each of the “Circuit
Notebook” items published in
SILICON CHIP. But now there are
four more reasons to send in
your circuit idea. Each month,
the best contribution published will entitle the author to choose the prize:
an LCR40 LCR meter, a
DCA55 Semiconductor Component Analyser, an ESR60 Equivalent
Series Resistance Analyser or an
SCR100 Thyristor & Triac Analyser,
siliconchip.com.au
with the compliments of Peak Electronic
Design Ltd www.peakelec.co.uk
So now you have even more reasons
to send that brilliant circuit
in. Send it to SILICON CHIP and you
could be a winner.
You can either email your idea to
silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au or post it to
PO Box 139, Collaroy, NSW 2097.
September 2005 45
Circuit Notebook – Continued
Morse code
practice oscillator
This simple circuit uses an LM4871 3W bridged audio amplifier
IC from National Semiconductor to
create a very simple code practice
oscillator.
The LM4871 is unity gain stable,
requires no output coupling capacitors and can develop over 1W
into an 8W load. Undoubtedly, this
circuit could be adapted for use in
other audio oscillator applications
where space is at a premium.
A phase shift network comprised
of three 16kW resistors and three
10nF capacitors is used to generate
the conditions necessary for oscillation. With the values shown, we
would expect the circuit to oscillate
at about 400Hz.
A trimpot (VR1) provides a
means of adjusting the amplifier
gain. Following usual practice, the
combined value of the trimpot and
470kW series resistor must be at
least 29 times greater than the 16kW
value connected to pin 4 of IC1 to
achieve oscillation.
The LM4871N is available from
RS Components (stock no. 349-
Craig Kendrick Sellen,
Carbondale,
Pennsylvania, USA. ($35)
4969), on the Internet at www.
rsaustralia.com or phone 1300
656 636.
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46 Silicon Chip
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biological specimens ! Build a carbon dioxide laser ! Grow bacteria
cultures safely at home ! Build a ripple tank to study wave
phenomena ! Discover how plants grow in low gravity ! Do strange
experiments with sound ! Use a hot wire to study the crystal
structure of steel ! Extract and purify DNA in your kitchen !Create a
laser hologram ! Study variable stars like a pro ! Investigate
vortexes in water ! Cultivate slime moulds ! Study the flight
efficiency of soaring birds ! How to make an Electret ! Construct
fluid lenses ! Raise butterflies as experimental animals ! Study the
physics of spinning tops ! Build an apparatus for studying chaotic
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See the review in SILICON CHIP, October 2004. . . or read on line at www.siliconchip.com.au
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September 2005 47
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
Oh, Goodie – A VCR To Fix
With the prices of new DVD players and
VCRs reaching record lows, I don’t get to see
many for repair these days. Recently, though
I had a VCR to fix – ahh, the good old days!
As predicted, the GST not only
crippled the service industry but has
also contributed to an unprecedented
pollution problem. In NSW, we currently dump about 115,000 tonnes of
electronic equipment per year, with
huge piles of unwanted gear containing dangerous chemicals going
directly into landfill and eventually
into the water table.
Did you know, for example, that
every large-screen TV tube has about
2kg of lead in it? Or that other components may contain cyanide and other
poisons?
Perhaps it’s time to consider the
real costs of disposing of electronic
equipment and build those costs into
the purchase price. One suggestion
is to sell consumer electronics with
a prepaid voucher system – say $50
to dispose of your television thoughtfully and another $50 in refundable
coupons towards the cost of maintaining and servicing the set, thereby
prolonging its life.
But enough of these musing! Re-
Items Covered This Month
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Marantz SR19 AV receiver
Samsung SV-631B hifi VCR
Sony KV-EX29M39 TV set
(AG3E chassis)
Sony KV-3400ASD TV set
(GP2-A chassis)
Panasonic TX68PS12A TV set
(MX10A chassis)
Philips 29PT9418/79G TV set
(MG3.1A chassis)
Sony KV-ES29M31/SAU3 TV
set (AG3 chassis SCC-P92A-A)
48 Silicon Chip
cently, Michael Bebbington brought
in a Samsung SV-631B hifi VCR which
was built in 2000. He was rather vague
about precisely what was wrong with
it but did mutter something about it
not recording and chewing tapes. He
didn’t want to buy a new one as it
matched the rest of his Samsung gear,
which is fair enough.
When I got it on the bench and removed its cover, everything initially
appeared to be OK. The tape went in
and all the functions worked. However, on closer examination, I noticed
that when the tape was inserted, it
sometimes made scraping noises
within the cassette case. What’s more,
in fast forward and rewind modes, the
pinch roller remained in contact with
the tape and capstan shaft, making it
run very slowly.
I also found that after playing a tape,
it wouldn’t automatically go into rewind mode, nor would the “express”
or “jet” rewind modes work.
To begin with, I thought that this
might be a mode select switch problem. As a result, I removed the deck
mechanism to expose the switch,
sprayed expensive switch cleaner
into it and rotated the switch through
360° several times. Unfortunately, this
made no difference so I tried cleaning
the heads (especially the ACE head)
but this had no effect either.
Next, I removed the deck again and
took a much closer look at the mechanism. I then noticed that the frontloading lever arm assembly, which
connects the two sides of the cassette
cradle housing, had plastic receptacles
on either side. These both had cracks
in them and this in turn meant that
the cassette was a rather sloppy fit as
it went down onto the deck.
Initially, I tried re-gluing them with
superglue but in the end was forced to
concede that they needed replacement
(KS30 part no: AC66-30546A).The
question was, did they fail of their own
accord or because Michael had tried to
force out a jammed cassette?
Next, I examined the reel assembly,
as this is a classic area for faults in
video cassette decks. I removed the
belt, pulley and reel brakes until I
got to the centre gear assembly. Here
I discovered three minute cracks in
the clutch assembly – just the sort of
fault I was looking for. As a result, I
ordered a new part for this (K221 Part
No: AC66-20581A), as well as a new
clutch holder assembly (K200, Part No:
AC61-21012A).
When the parts (now coloured
blue) arrived, I reassembled them but
this took several attempts to get it all
right. The fact is, it’s rather difficult
to remember how everything goes
back together again, because of all the
springs and plastic lever clips.
However, once done, the performance difference was huge. Not only
did the pinch roller no longer engage
the capstan shaft during fast forward
or rewind but the speed was at least
10 times faster.
Unfortunately, Michael could only
point out that the repair cost about
half as much as buying a new VCR
so he wasn’t entirely happy – not for
something he perceived as “a small
adjustment”! However, he had (rather
begrudgingly) accepted the quote
beforehand, so he couldn’t complain
too much.
Marantz AV system
Bill Douglas brought in his 1999
Marantz SR19 AV surround receiver,
complaining there was no sound. This
rather impressive unit features Dolby
AC-3 5.1-channel surround sound and
is capable of 125W RMS into 8 ohms
per channel. As can be imagined, those
specifications didn’t come cheap back
in 1999 – not at around five grand!
The fuses were all OK and a quick
siliconchip.com.au
check for DC offset on each of the
outputs showed close to 0V, suggesting that the outputs hadn’t blown. The
power supplies were also all OK, the
B+ rails measuring ±64V (these should
be ±56V on load).
The tuner mode also checked out.
However, there was no signal on the
PL04 pre-out sockets and after tracing
the signal to the digital pro-logic board,
it was apparent that the muting relays
weren’t working. So the fault was
somewhere in the mute circuit.
This Marantz receiver/amplifier is
a very complex unit. The muting circuits on their own are quite extensive
and include the protection circuits. In
fact, there are no less than nine relays
in this unit!
The circuit shows that the relay
driver IC (QN01, TA7317P) – which is
on board P754 – drives transistor QN02
(DTC144ES). This in turn controls
QN04 and LN01 and also dovetails
into the relay control bus.
Transistor QN03 (2SA970) is part of
the protection circuitry and monitors
five current sensor detection transistors – Q729, Q730, QT29, QP29 &
QP30 – at the output of each amplifier. This transistor then controls pin
9 of IC QN01. However, the voltages
here were not correct and measured
considerably less that the 3V shown
on the circuit.
One problem with this receiver is
that the internal access is difficult,
simply because it has so much circuitry. This means that you have to
dismantle some of the assemblies to
get to individual PC boards, in order
to make detailed DC measurements
and check components. This all takes
time and so you need to approach the
job logically to avoid going over the
same ground twice.
Although the transistors on the P754
board all measured OK, I decided to
replace them and any nearby electrolytic capacitors as well. That done, I
moved on to the power amplifier board
which is designated P704.
First, I removed the five plugs to
the top boards and noticed that the
BIAS plug (JY13) was dry-jointed. I
then checked all the other plugs and
also found the connections to JT13 to
be poor. Apart from that, everything
looked OK and because I had actually
identified a problem, I reconnected
everything for a quick test.
Amazingly, the receiver powered
up but only two channels were worksiliconchip.com.au
ing – front-right and rear-left. It was
then that I noticed I had forgotten to
reconnect one of the plugs (J703) to
the main ±B rails. However, when I reconnected that, the protection circuit
immediately cut in and I was back to
square one again. Rats!
Fortunately, though, I now had a
clue – the problem obviously lay in
one or more of the three amplifiers
that weren’t working. As a result, I
disassembled them completely and
found that two of the amplifiers had
been seriously damaged despite there
being no visible evidence.
Changing all the transistors and
some of the resistors fixed the problems, however it was a bit of hit or miss
affair. Basically, you have to make sure
you change all the faulty parts at one
go, otherwise the whole lot will have
to be removed again.
Fairly obviously, these two amplifier
stages were damaged by the dry joints
to the bias plugs. Fixing them took a
lot of time and effort and I really don’t
think Bill appreciated just how much
work went into his receiver.
The reluctant Sony
Arthur Beecroft’s Sony KV-EX29M39
TV set (AG3E chassis) was under extended warranty and had to be picked
up. The problem was that the set
turned itself off after five seconds – or
so said Arthur.
In practice, I found that it really
didn’t quite get that far, as there was
never a picture for me. However, I did
notice that the red LED was flashing
six times, which denotes a problem in
the horizontal deflection circuit.
The protection circuit for the line
output stage is fed from the collector of transistor Q6808 via two series
capacitors – C6837 and C6838. As for
the service manual, it suggests that the
fault condition could be due to C6831
(6200pF 1.5kV, part No. 111783521)
going open circuit, in turn causing
excessive EHT. This capacitor checked
out OK but I replaced it anyway – it
made no difference!
By disabling the protection circuit
a bit at a time, I eventually found that
removing the x-ray protect from pin 27
on CN6819 to the D1 board restored
the picture and sound. However, there
was no east-west correction, either in
pincushion or width.
I checked the 9V supply to the D1
board and this was OK. This board has
a series of quad AND gates (LM393N
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September 2005 49
Serviceman’s Log – continued
and µPC358C) which have been
known to fail, so I replaced IC4800
through to IC4804 with sockets and
ordered replacement ICs. I then left
the set on the bench plugged into the
power point which was turned off and
with the D1 board unplugged.
Unfortunately, while I was out,
someone unplugged the TV, used another appliance, then plugged the set
back in again with the power on. The
effect of this was to change the LED
flashing from 6x to 2x, which denotes
a +B overcurrent (OCP) mode.
The manual suggests that Q6807 and
Q6810 are probably the cause in this
case. However, I found that it was in
fact Q6808 (2SC5480-01) and Q6810
(IRF1830G) that were at fault, having
gone either short circuit or very leaky.
Replacing both these not only restored
the picture but also fixed the east-west
problems, even when the x-ray protect
pin was resoldered. I guess you have
to be lucky sometimes.
By the way, Q6807 and Q6808 are
a real pain to remove in this set. They
are vertically mounted on heatsinks
and Q6807 cannot be removed without
first removing Q6808 and its heatsink.
And that’s because the mounting screw
cannot be accessed unless you have a
custom tool for the job.
Large-screen Sony
Sam Pritchard’s Sony KV-3400ASD
TV set came in on the back of his ute,
as it was too big to fit in his car. This
50 Silicon Chip
80cm set was built around 1989 and
the problem was that it turned itself
off after about half an hour.
Unfortunately, the fault proved to
be very haphazard. Sometimes, the set
would work all day without problems,
while on other days it would switch
off seemingly at random.
This set employs a GP-2A chassis
and this has been pretty reliable over
the years. What’s more, I hadn’t ever
encountered an intermittent fault like
this so where was I to start?
I couldn’t sit around all day waiting for the fault to occur, so I decided
to start with a few basic checks. The
power supply appeared to be OK, with
all five voltages being present. When
the set is “off”, the 135V rail rises to
nearly 150V. However, this isn’t surprising as two transistors (Q651 and
Q652) switch in a 2kW load resistor
(R603) in the standby mode.
Because the power supply is one
of the few areas that can cause strife
(and is buried in the bilges of the set),
I decided to start getting serious here.
This initially involved replacing all
the electrolytic capacitors, after which
I resoldered the PC board to within an
inch of its life!
Off course, this made no difference
but it made me feel that I could at least
cross two jobs off my “to-do list”. I also
checked Q651 and Q652 out of circuit
and replaced C655 and C656 on the 7V
and 15V lines.
Next, I examined the deflection
board (D). I checked for cracks in the
board tracks near the clips and hinges
and also kept an eye out for any suspicious solder joints and dried
out electros. In particular, I
concentrated on resoldering L801 and L806 in the
east-west circuitry, as
well as the flyback and
IC regulators (IC1704 and
IC503).
None of this made any
difference, so I moved on
to the 47kW resistor between Q806e and Q807c.
This resistor isn’t shown
on the circuit diagram and
had a piece of black insulation beneath it. Eventually, after
many years, this insulation becomes
conductive, causing symptoms similar
to the ones I was experiencing with
B+ protection.
Again, this made no difference. Instead, the work I had done had actually
made things worse. The set was getting
harder to switch on, which was great
because it meant that I could start getting to grips with the problem.
Checking further, I found that IC503
wasn’t always delivering 12V on its
pin 3. This device is an STR90120
12V “controllable” (or switchable) IC
regulator and is fed from the 15V rail.
However, I wasn’t sure whether it was
the IC itself or the standby circuitry
that was at fault, as the voltage on pin
2 and the ST-BY bus wasn’t changing
and was low.
The ST-BY bus originates from pin
41 of the “System Control Microprocessor (IC001). The circuit shows this
voltage to be 7.4V, which must be a
mistake as it is pulled high by R010
and CP005 to the 5V rail. However,
on other circuits for similar models,
it is shown as being pulled high to
the 5V rail by R010 and to the 12V
rail by CP005!
The ST-BY bus wanders all over the
K board, performing all sorts of muting tasks, before going over to the F1
power board and to pin 2 of IC503 via
R5512. I spent a lot of time analysing
this ST-BY bus, looking for shorts and
disconnecting it all over the place, until I finally woke up that it should be
high in the “Standby” mode and low
in the “On” mode. However, in this
set, the micro was unable to switch it
from “On” to “Standby” and that just
left IC503, which I then ordered (Part
No. 874992060).
siliconchip.com.au
When fitted, it finally fixed Sam’s problem for good. I
also replaced the 1mF capacitor (C5501) on control pin
2 and C55602 on pin 4, just for good measure.
Intermittent Panasonic
I had a 2001 Panasonic TX68PS12A (MX10A chassis)
arrive on my workshop bench with a litany of intermittent faults. These included low height, a faint on-screen
display (OSD), over-brightness and no tuning. Apparently,
these faults all appeared after a “power surge”.
So what could be a common factor with all these symptoms? Well, when in doubt, always measure all the power
supply B+ rails. Unfortunately, there are a lot of supply
rails in this set and some are difficult to access but I persevered. I checked the 140V, 12V, 9V and 5V rails, plus
a second 5V rail, and all were OK. Well, not quite – the
second 5V rail on TPA323 was varying slightly.
I used an old-fashioned analog meter, a can of freezer
and a hairdryer to track this fault down. And it didn’t
take long to determine that regulator IC884 (PQ05RD1B)
was unstable. A new one fixed the problem.
A haughty customer
Mr Symons came in with his Philips 29PT9418/79G
TV set (MG3.1A chassis), complaining rather haughtily
that he was disgusted his set had had the temerity to
(intermittently, mind you) turn itself off – without permission even!
Well, I said, I would look into it for him as soon as
possible. As it happened, I was having one of those rare
days when everything was going right (I should have
bought a lottery ticket) and I stumbled upon the cause
fairly rapidly. After a few quick voltage checks, I noticed
that the +11V rail was varying intermittently on the cathode of D6237 on Board B and when I finally worked out
how to disassemble the power board, I found an almost
invisible hairline fracture around pin 2 of transformer
T5204 in the DC-to-DC converter circuit.
siliconchip.com.au
September 2005 51
Serviceman’s Log – continued
I was quite chuffed with myself for
finding the fault so quickly but Mr
Symons was less impressed. He duly
collected it with bad grace, probably
upset that he hadn’t had the chance to
have an even longer whinge than he
did when he first arrived.
Anyway, I thought that would be
the end of him until a couple of weeks
later, when I heard his voice again
at the front counter, demanding immediate attention. He immediately
made it clear that I was obviously the
incompetent who was masquerading
as a TV technician and who should
obviously be sacked – but only after
rectifying the problem that I had created on his telly!
Well, when we got down to brass
tacks, the fault he now had was in
fact entirely different (which he was
not prepared to concede). This time,
the vertical deflection was intermittently scanning and causing bottom
fold-over.
Unfortunately, this fault didn’t show
up immediately and just when I was
about to put it down to a quirk of his
imagination, I saw the problem. And
now that I had seen it, it wasn’t too
long before I found the problem to be
a number of dry joints on IC7600, the
vertical output IC on board A3 underneath the set.
52 Silicon Chip
Well, despite the fact that this fault
was totally unrelated to the first and
was in a completely different part
of the set, I couldn’t get it into Mr
Symons’ thick head that I was in no
way responsible for the problem. In the
end, I had to wear the repair because
he was one of those idiots you just
can’t reason with.
But I had the parting shot – I told
him that in future, he would have to
take his service problems elsewhere. I
don’t enjoy working for nothing!
The reluctant Sony
Paul Sandringham brought in his
1999 Sony KV-ES29M31/SAU3 (AG3
chassis SCC-P92A-A), complaining that there was no picture and
the set would try to start and then
switch off.
When I tried it, it also gave a LED
error code 4 (ie the LED was flashing
four times). Based on my previous
experience (this chassis is similar to
the AE5), I went straight to Q68087
(2SC5480-01) and replaced it as it was
short circuit.
The set was now able to start but
there was still no picture, Instead, it
just showed a rolling raster or, at least,
one with a vertical jitter with OSD
menus. What’s more, I couldn’t tune in
any stations, nor could I get any signal
input up on the screen.
I decided to start with the J Board
and trace a colour bar signal I injected
into AVI with the oscilloscope. Well, I
didn’t get very far, because there was no
5V rail anywhere on the J Board. This
rail is supplied via IC8304 (LF50 CDTTR), an SMC 5V IC regulator, which is
in turn fed with +6.5V via pins 12 &
1 3 of plug CN8304. It was then that
I also noticed IC8304 was
getting extremely hot, no
doubt due to a short circuit
on the 5V rail.
The J Board has
10 3-pin feedthrough
inductors (for EMI
suppression) which are
susceptible to going
short circuit. Fortunately, there are only
six on the 5V rail but
it still took some time
to remove them from
the double-sided PC
board and replace them.
However, this wasn’t the
problem area; instead, it
was one of the three modules (BC4, A1 and IC8314) which are
soldered onto the J Board.
These too are difficult to remove
and you have to remember which way
the metal screens go on when removing them. If you don’t, you will find
(as I did) that there are two ways the
IC cover can be fitted – one of which
won’t allow the J module to fit back
onto the main chassis.
There is also a little fibro insulating washer that prevents the IC8314
module from shorting to ground, so
care has to be taken to ensure this
goes back in. By the way, the circuit
for this module isn’t shown in the
service manual.
When I removed the BC4 module
(Y/C separator and comb filter), the
short cleared. Inside the module, almost everything was surface mounted
and not easy to remove and replace
without damage. Eventually, I found
that the 37mH EMI feedthrough
(FL2007), which feeds the 3.3V IC
regulator, had shorted.
Unfortunately, in the course of all
this, I also managed to damage L2004
and Q8313, as considerable force
has to be used in prying some of the
components out. These parts were
also replaced, after which the unit
was reassembled. It now all worked
perfectly – much to my relief.
SC
siliconchip.com.au
40Ch UHF CB Transceiver
Wireless Internet Antenna
Having trouble getting
unwired? This wireless
modem antenna replaces
the existing 'rabbit ear' on
your wireless broadband
modem and boosts the
signal to improve coverage.
It can also improve performance
in difficult areas. The antenna can be
mounted inside the house or in a
modem not included
protected outside location for
optimum reception. Supplied with
Cat. AR-3274
N type to MCX lead & mounting bracket. $
.95
•Size 135(W) x 160(H) x 30(D)mm.
Illuminated House Number
Solar powered illumination!
This clever idea makes house numbers
easy to see at night. It works by
illuminating the number from behind with
a bright LED & is charged by a built-in
solar cell (Number inserts included).
Several modules can be clipped
Cat. GH-1830
.95
together to form multiple digit numbers. $
129
MPEG4 Player
14
NEW STORE IN
SUNSHINE VICTORIA
OPEN
204 MCINTYRE ROAD
SUNSHINE VIC 3020
DAYS
Ph: 03 9310 8066 Fax: 03 9310 8077
Great for the car or home!
Here is a great way to enjoy movies, music
and picture slide
shows on your TV
or PC monitor. It
accepts most
memory cards so all
you need to do is load the files on
the card, pop it in, and you’re away! Supports MPEG4
encoded files in MPG, DAT and AVI formats and can
also play music and image files.
Cat. XC-4865
See our website for details.
$
.00
•125(W) x 22(H) x 83(D)mm.
199
Mini Digital Video Camera
A digital camera for under $200!
This easy to use camera fits in
the palm of your hand. The
recorded video can be
transferred to a computer for
editing or simply viewed
directly on any TV with
AV inputs. Features
include a 3.1 Megapixel
software resolution for stills, 1.5" colour LCD screen,
5 layer glass lens; 32MB internal memory, SD/MMC
expansion slot, 4 x digital
Cat. QC-3230
SAVE
zoom, internal microphone
$
.00
$20
and lots more! Was $199
179
7
NEW KIT - Bilge Sniffer
Minimise the risk of
boating explosions
Ref: Silicon Chip
September 05
Fit the bilge sniffer to
your boat and it could
save the boat and your
life. It automatically turns on bilge exhaust
fans when explosive gases are detected when
incorporated with the engine starter or ignition
circuit, locking out the engine if hydrocarbons are
detected. Detects iso-butane, propane, and LPG
the three main sources of
A MUST
hydrocarbons from petrol,
FOR PETROL
diesel fuel and propane gas.
BOATS
•Power source: 12V DC
•Recommended enclosure:
Cat. KC-5416
UB3 HB-6013 $3.50 ea.
$
.95
39
DON’T FORGET YOUR
FREE BATTERIES
REDEEM YOUR SEPTEMBER COUPON
FROM INSIDE YOUR 2005
CATALOGUE TODAY!
STOP PRESS STOP PRESS STOP PRESS STOP PRESS STOP PRESS
1GB Portable MP4 / MP3 Player with Voice
Recorder FM Radio and Picture Viewer
Watch full
length movies
on the go
Check this out!
This blows conventional MP3 players and solid state flash
disks out of the water! At first glance, you might think that it is
just an MP3 player with a LCD screen, but that is just the tip of
the iceberg. This unit is feature packed, just check out the line-up!
•MP3 player of course, the most obvious feature, the 1GB
capacity allows storage of a few hundred songs!
•JPEG picture viewer - you can run slideshows for you and your friends - great in this digital age.
•Built-in FM radio - so you can catch up on the news, or listen to the latest chart-topping hits.
•Voice recorder - so you can take voice notes or record conversations (with permission of course).
•MPEG-4 player - so you can watch full length movies on the go!
NOW AVAILABLE
It measures just 75 x 37 x 14mm, and weighs less than 40g!
Cat. GE-4006
The 1.3" high resolution TFT LCD screen provides crystal clear
$
SAVE
pictures, and is the perfect way to keep yourself entertained.
$50
See our website for full details.
Was $399
349
New low price!
This lightweight handheld transceiver is
suitable for all manner of professional
and leisure activities. This is a quality
UHF radio and, whilst just 0.5W output,
it is NOT a toy. Open field transmission
range is up to an incredible
$34.95ea
5km, with typical city
or buy 2 for
range up to 1km.
$59.95
Was $39.95 Cat. DC-1010
SAVE
$5
Wireless Weather Station with Wind
Direction & Rain Gauge
Wireless sensors!
The system monitors inside
and outside temp, air pressure,
rainfall, humidity, wind speed
and direction, and wind
chill factor. Check our
website Cat. XC-0293
for all the $
.00
features.
249
Lead Acid Battery Zapper Kit
Extend the working
life of your lead
acid battery!
Ref: SC July ‘05
This simple circuit is
designed to produce
bursts of high-energy pulses to
help reverse the damaging effects of
sulphation in "wet" lead acid batteries. This is particularly
useful when a battery has been sitting for a length of
time without use. Its effects are dependent on the
battery’s condition and type, but the results can be quite
impressive. Kit supplied with case,
Cat. KC-5414
silk screened lid, leads, inductor and
$
.95
all electronic components.
39
Attn: All You “Tim The Toolmen”
(The Wealthy Ones Anyway)
We now stock the US-Designed Grabit
damaged screw removal tool,
but BOY it’s expensive!!
What it does. If you have
a typically, (but not necessarily)
countersunk screw that is
slotted, Phillips, Posidrive, Torx,
Tri-Wing, tamper resistant, etc
that is totally stripped out, this
product will get it out - even if the head is totally
hollow! All of us “Tims” have experienced this! The
extraction bit consists of a burnishing bit that basically
preps a tapered hole in the screw head. You turn the
bit around with the extractor bit out, reverse the
cordless drill direction and the extractor bit bites into
the prepped hole with tremendous force. Works
equally well on brass, steel, stainless screws etc. The
TD-2059 consists of two 1/4” hex drive bits that cover
screws from #6 to #14 gauge. In days when a 12V
cordless drill can retail for $25 this
Cat. TD-2059
$
.95
product may seem expensive.
What it can do for you is priceless.
49
STOP PRESS STOP PRESS STOP PRESS STOP PRESS STOP PRESS
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
1
Great New iPod Accessories!
iPod USB Data Cable
Attention PC users!
A replacement cable for a lost or
broken iPod data cable. Works
with all iPods that use the 30 pin
Apple connector. Commonly used
on Windows computers.
Cat. WC-7692
$
.95
14
iPod Firewire Data Cable
Attention Mac users!
A replacement cable for a lost or
broken iPod data cable. Works
with iPods that use the 30 pin
Apple connector. Commonly
used on Macintosh computers.
Massive portable storage!
Instantly add gigabytes of
storage to your PC or
notebook. You can use any
2.5" IDE HDD, and then plug it
into your USB 2.0 port for super fast backup, transfer,
and storage. Includes carry pouch,
Cat. XC-4678
$
.95
cable, and drivers (only required for
Win98).
49
Notebook Docking Station
USB Powered Battery Charger
Cat. WC-7690
$
.95
14
Very useful!
Charge and update your iPod easily
with this cradle. It will charge the
battery and you can connect the
USB or Firewire cable to
update your Cat. XC-4930
iPod not
.95
playlists etc. $
SAVE
$4
Recharge your batteries while
you download your photos!
Why use another mains outlet
when you can utilise the USB
power at hand. Charge up to
4 x AA or AAA, Ni-MH or
Ni-Cd batteries.
Was
Cat. XC-4950
$
.95
$19.95
300k Pixel SurfCam USB Web Camera
128MB USB 2.0 Flash Disk with
Memory Card Reader
Portable iPod / MP3 Player
Dock and Speakers
Very handy!
Not only is this a handy USB 2.0 flash disk, it also
houses a card reader that can read Memory Stick,
Secure Digital, and Multimedia cards.
Fully compliant with USB
2.0 specification for ultra
fast data Cat. XC-4750
$
.95
transfer.
Cat. XC-5163
$
.95
89
Computer Speakers
These speakers sound as
good as they look!
•Subwoofer: 3” driver 10WRMS
133(W) x 145(D) x 252(H)mm
•Satellites: 2” drivers 1.5WRMS
114(W) x 80(D) x 195(H)mm
•12 volt plug pack included
Cat. XC-5167
$
.95
39
69
Desktop Multimedia
Microphone
179
PCI Wireless Network Interface Card
•IEEE 802.11g wireless network
compatible. Interoperation with
IEEE 802.11b 11Mbps networks.
•64 / 128 Bit WEP encryption.
•54Mbps high speed transfer rate.
•40 - 100m indoor range.
•100 - 300m outdoor range.
Cat. YN-8066
•Low power consumption.
$
.95
•Plug and Play compatible.
•Compatible with Win98/SE/2000/ME/XP
69
USB 2.0 Wireless Network Card
•54Mbps
Cat. YN-8067
$
.95
89
2
35
19 Key USB Numeric Keypad
Great for laptops!
One key feature that doesn’t come with
a notebook computer is the numeric
keypad. Sure it is overlayed on other
keys, but it just isn’t the same. This unit
is compact and Plug n Play, so it is very
easy to use.
Cat. XC-5155
$
.95
USB Magnifier Lamp
Ideal for voice recognition!
It can sit on your desktop, or be
attached to your monitor. It produces
low noise and has a wide frequency
response for more natural sound.
3m lead
Cat. AM-4087
to 3.5mm plug.
$
.95
Utilise USB power and take
the strain off your eyes.
A 50mm diameter glass lens
provides great magnification
while a built in lamp lights your
Cat. ST-2809
work.
$
.95
12
19
Laser Pointer with Line and Arrow
PCMCIA Wireless Network Card
Installing network cables can be a hassle, and
what if you are renting?
This router allows communication with up to four
wireless networked computers. It includes support
for WAN, web-based and remote management, auto
detection and configuration of ISP,
Cat. YN-8086
built in firewall, and more!
$
.00
•IEEE 802.11g and
IEEE 802.11b compatible.
•Up to 54Mbps data rate.
•Static and dynamic routing.
•VPN pass through.
Video conferencing and more!
It uses a 300k pixel colour
GREAT
CMOS sensor with auto
VALUE
exposure and white balance
for optimum performance. Software
included for creating greeting cards and
photo albums.
Cat. QC-3223
$
.00
29
WIRELESS NETWORK PERIPHERALS
Wireless Network Access Point
802.11G with 4 Port Switch
No more cable tangles!
Leave your peripherals
connected to the dock, and
just plug/unplug a single
Cat. XC-4860
cable! Includes 4 port USB 2.0 hub,
$
.00
Ethernet, serial, and 2 x PS/2 connections.
139
15
included
Featuring 1.5" micro
speakers, & an internal
amplifier, they sound
great. It all folds up to a
neat 286g package when
not in use too.
Powered by 4 x AAA
batteries not included.
•iPod not included.
2.5" IDE - USB 2.0 Hard Disk Drive Case
Relax at your computer!
The USB powered device contains
lavender scented wax that fills your
workspace with a
calming fragrance that is
said to soothe the mind
and heal the body. Works
with your own fragrances
too!
Cat. GH-1044
$
.95
19
iPod Data / Charging Cradle and Cables
29
USB Aromatherapy Diffuser
The laser image changes as you turn the tip of
the pen from arrow, to a line or to the
normal red laser dot.
Use the laser line to
emphasise a word,
Cat. ST-3106
$
.95
direct movement using the laser
arrow or simply point out aspects of your
presentation with the conventional red dot. Made from
sturdy metal and uses 2 x AAA batteries (not included)
•54Mbps
80211G
SAVE
$20
Was
$89.95
Cat. YN-8068
$
.95
29
69
WiFi Hot Spot Finder
Check for the presence of
wireless network hotspots
without the hassle of unpacking &
booting-up your notebook computer.
This key-fob sized device will tell you when
you are in a WiFi capable location and indicate the
strength of the signal at the press of a button. Will
also detect the signals transmitted by wireless
surveillance cameras they may be observing.
Cat. XC-4885
•Size:75(L) x 37(W) x 10(D)mm.
$
.95
•2 x CR2032 batteries included.
39
USB Bluetooth Dongle Class 2
SAVE
$10
Supports Windows 98SE, 2000, & ME.
Get short range wireless
connectivity with mobile
phones, PDAs, some
keyboards and mouse
Cat. XC-4890
products with this USB Bluetooth
$
.95
dongle. Was $49.95
39
Laser Pointer with Power
Point Remote Control
SAVE
$5
Power Point
presentations are
a great way to get
information across to a large
audience. This excellent device incorporates "Page Up"
& "Page Down" buttons into a stylish laser pointer. The
combination allows you to move around the room and
still run your presentation and point-out items of
interest. This is one of those truly useful devices that
make a job so much easier and with Cat. ST-3108
$
.95
a transmission range over 15m you
can’t go wrong. Was $49.95
44
4 in 1 Pen/PDA Stylus/Laser/Torch
Looks like an ordinary biro but includes a
laser pointer, torch and PDA stylus.
Presented in a metallic
silver case that
Cat. ST-3101
would make an ideal gift for the
$
.95
lecturer or student.
24
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
LCD Virtual Goggles
2.4GHz Wireless Audio Video Senders
Noise Cancelling Headphones
Watch cable TV all over the house!
Send a signal from a
DVD player, settop box etc., to
another room,
without the use of any
cables! You can use as many receivers as you like,
without degrading signal quality. Each unit comes
supplied with stereo audio and video transmitter and
receiver, mains plugpacks & RCA cables. Transmission
range is up to 100m, but depends on the type of
construction materials used. Cat. AR-1832
SAVE
$
.95
Was $99
$29.05
Take the cinema screen with
you! Enjoy private viewing of
your TV/DVD/VCR or games
console with these lightweight
goggles. So portable they can be
used in a car to enjoy DVD player
entertainment, or connect it to
a video games console such as PLAYSTATION, XBOX,
etc. Supplied with cables & power adaptor. 800 x 225
(180,000) pixel resolution.
Cat. QM-3790
SAVE
$
.00
Was $399
349
$50
69
Sleep soundly! Designed for use in
noisy environments such as an
aircraft or in cars. Can reduce
background noise
Cat. AA-2054
by as much
$
.95
as 15dB.
Extra receiver to suit
Cat. AR-1833 Was $69
49
49
HIGH DEFINITION Digital Terrestrial TV
Card for PCs
HDTV on your computer!
Watch high or standard
definition TV on your PC!
It supports wide-screen
(16:9) and standard (4:3)
aspect ratios.
•PCI Card version
Cat. XC-4819
Was $179
$
.00
NOT AVAILABLE IN NZ
With the addition of an IR
remote control repeater you
can change the channel of the
source device etc from the
Cat. AR-1830
other room.
$
.95
Was $139
SAVE
$10
Top quality reception!
No need for physical
hardware installation, just
plug it into your USB 2.0 port
for HDTV. It operates in
enhanced 16:9 format with
software supplied for DVD making and
manipulation. See our website for
Cat. XC-4814
system requirements.
$
.95
NOT AVAILABLE IN NEW ZEALAND
249
XPERT DVD Maker
SAVE
Convert all your old VHS tapes and
$50
camcorder cassettes to DVD!
XPERT DVD Maker
converts on the fly, so
there is no need for
excessive amounts of
free disk space. All
you need is a DVD
Cat. XC-4811
$
.00
burner and you can store
your memories forever! Was $149
99
USB 2.0 DVD Maker
Cat. AR-1831
$
.95
69
800WRMS Class D
• 1 x 400WRMS
<at> 4 ohms.
• 1 x 700WRMS
<at> 2 ohms.
• 1 x 820WRMS
<at> 1 ohm.
AA-0428
399.00
$
Kevlar Cone Coaxial
Speakers
Fantastic quality!
This new range of coaxial speakers offer
high performance and great looks. They
retain the large super tweeter that made last year’s
range great, but the new Kevlar cones take them
into a realm of their own. Check out our catalogue
on page 229 or our website for full details.
4" Kevlar 2 Way
Cat.
•40WRMS power. CS-2320
•86.5dB sensitivity. $99.95
5" Kevlar 2 Way
Cat.
•50WRMS power. CS-2322
•89.5dB sensitivity. $109.95
Cat.
6.5" Kevlar 2 Way CS-2324
•75WRMS power.
USB 2.0 Video Capture Box
Fantastic sound!
A new design of
our previous
Kevlar split
speakers, they sound
great. They have a great
sounding 25mm soft dome
tweeter, as well as separate
crossovers for optimum
performance.
Cat. QV-3090
$
.00
99
•91.3dB sensitivity.
6" x 9" 2 Way
•80WRMS power.
•93.5dB sensitivity.
119.95
$
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
Affordable
at last!
Spectacular
U.S. Stock
Purchase
All Audiophiles
know that
Don’t
ribbon tweeters
Miss
are the ultimate speaker
Out!
for smooth high (and very
high) frequency performance.
Unfortunately, a good ribbon tweeter can cost
between $100 and $500 - to thousands for some
custom German ones. Even high-end enclosure
manufacturers all opt for dome tweeters simply
because "ribbons" add too much to system cost.
Jaycar have made a massive stock purchase from a
major US organ manufacturer who makes both pipe
and electronic organs. They are an 80+ year old
company and we cannot tell you who they are! They
are restructuring their production of their high-end
organs and their stock of ribbon tweeters has been
sold to us far, far below the 10,000+ factory gate
price! Their massive loss is your gain.
The tweeter is made in Japan by the venerable
manufacturer, Foster. The device itself has multiple
ribbon "diaphragm" components in same phase
configuration. There are two basic types of ribbon
tweeters, static or dynamic type. This product is the
dynamic type which has conventional impedance 8Ω
and is more efficient. Each speaker is supplied with
a datasheet and securely packed. Even if you do not
have any specific need for a ribbon tweeter at the
moment, we strongly urge you to consider
purchasing it for future use. At the price we are
offering, we expect OEM (manufacturer) interest. As
it is a distress stock buy, quantities are limited.
On many occasions in the past we have warned
customers of this and the slow ones miss out.
Finally, we think that technically, two tweeters per
enclosure would be the way to go. They should not
be overdriven. Note also the fairly high crossover
frequency. In keeping with this suggestion, we have
a special price for a set of 4 pieces.
Type:
Regular-phase 100mm ribbon tweeter
Power:
20 Watts RMS (cont), 50W max.
SPL:
92dB/Watt.
Freq Resp: 6K-40KHz +/-2dB (SUBLIME!).
Impedance: 8Ω.
Crossover Frequency: 6,400Hz (12dB / Octave).
Normally a speaker of this quality would sell for over
$100. Because the factory’s loss is your gain we are
offering this product for only $39.95 each, or a set of
4 for only $136 – only $34 each! You will KILL
yourself if you miss out and you will if you delay.
Cat. CT-2023
$
.95EA
39
Cat.
CS-2328
or buy as a set
of 4 for $136.00
That”s only $34 each!
Carbon Fibre Subwoofers
139.95
$
New range! Featuring high quality Carbon
Fibre cones and dual voice coils, these new
subwoofers offer great performance and
durability. See website for full details.
6.5" Kevlar Split Speakers
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
SAVE
$19.05
Check out
our massive
amplifier range
No more fading memories!
Transfer all of your VHS,
Betamax, and camcorder
tapes to DVD using your
computer’s DVD burner.
With editing software to
add colour and transitional effects, as well as sound
tracks. Supports composite
Cat. XC-4809
SAVE
& S-Video inputs & PAL or
$
.00
$20
NTSC sources. Was $149
129
SAVE
$49.05
89
Extra receiver to suit
Cat. AR-1831 Was $89
USB 2.0 HIGH DEFINITION Terrestrial
TV Tuner for PCs
Streaming full resolution video
on your PC!
Preview, record and playback
video, or burn to CD or DVD.
This is a great way of making
DVDs if you own an analogue
video camera. Includes capture
and editing software, supports
MPEG1 and MPEG2.
SAVE
$19.05
As Above but with Remote Control Extender
TV/Video Capture Systems
169
Cat. AR-1833
$
.95
RIBBON TWEETERS
10" Subwoofer
•250WRMS power handling.
•Dual 4-ohm voice coils. CS-2278
$
•87.1dB sensitivity.
179.95
12" Subwoofer
Cat. CS-2329
$
.95
pr
149
•300WRMS power handling.
•Dual 4-ohm voice coils.
CS-2279
•88.2dB sensitivity.
$
.00
219
3
H E A LT H A N D F I T N E S S G A D G E T S
Pedometer with 128MB MP3 Player
Time flies when you're exercising!
This pedometer has a
built-in MP3 player
which stores up to two
hours of music. More
than enough for most
fitness programs!
Pedometer functions include calorie
counting, distance monitor, as well
as a clock.
•With USB cables and earphones.
Was $119.95
SAVE
$20
Cat. GE-4012
99.95
$
Cat. XC-0267
19.95
$
Pulse and Calorie Digital Watch
Keep track of your pulse rate and energy
consumption with this easy-to-use digital watch.
Simply place your finger on the sensor and the
watch will tell you your pulse rate. It can even
work out the
number of calories
consumed and the
heart rate 'zone'
you’re exercising
in. The watch has
an alarm and a
stopwatch with split-time
SAVE
function as well as rubber mounting
$10
clamps to attach to bicycle handlebars.
Batteries 2 x LR44, included (for
Cat. XC-0266
replacements use our SB-2516).
$
.95
Was $39.95
29
Battery Free Torch
No batteries needed.
Just shake and the
mechanism
SAVE
produces a current
$2
to run the torch's
LED. If the torch dims, shake it again. This compact
torch will fit easily into you glovebox or around the
house for those times you need a light in a few
"shakes". 165mm in length, waterproof,
weatherproof and it floats in water!
Was $14.95
Cat. ST-3340
ST-3344 12” version also
$
.95
available for $24.95
NEW
12
The Amazing Flygun!
Keep the kids entertained!
The Amazing Flygun is a safe,
fun, and effective method of
killing flies and mosquitoes. Launch
the spring powered swatter at your
target! It is safe, fun and really does
work!
Cat. YS-5545
SAFE
$ .95
FOR AGES 8
AND UP
7
5 Piece Bicycle Tool Set with Bag
Keep your bike in top
condition! The set includes: a
hand pump, puncture repair kit,
two piece tyre lever, Allen
keys, a stainless steal
muli tool and a canvas
carry bag which attaches
to the frame of your bicycle with
velcro straps.
4
Cat. TH-2137
29.95
$
Four powerful magnets work to provide
stress relief. With the hand controller,
you're able to control the type of
massage you like. Also featuring dual
speakers on the top of the unit, you
can use the hand controller to select
between 8 soothing environmental sound
recordings. Great to use in the home
Cat. GH-1757
or office. Portable and powered by
$
.95
4 x AA batteries or supplied plug pack.
39
Toothbrushes and shaving
razors are personal items
which can attract and breed
bacteria easily.
This cleaner will keep your
toothbrush and razor clean and
fresh. It emits ultra-violet rays
which will sterilise the bacteria that
build up in these items as well as
deodorises, thus eliminating
unpleasant odours. The unit holds up to
4 toothbrushes and 1 razor at one time.
The light will automatically turn off when the lid is
opened.
Cat. GH-1507
•Requires 6 x AA batteries (not inc)
$
.95
•Size: 141(W)x60(D)x105(H)mm
24
3kg Nutrition Scales
SAVE
$10
Ideal for those who need
to monitor their food intake
or are watching their weight.
These kitchen scales double as a
nutrition calculator for over 470
common food items. They
calculate calories, kilojules,
cholesterol, protein, fat, carbohydrates
and glycaemic index.
Was $79.95
Relax and enjoy an eye
massage which combines
gentle air pressure and
warm compressions to
give you the ultimate in
stress relief. Using the
remote control you can select
three functions: Massage reduce fatigue & stress; Warm
compressions - to facilitate circulation to increase
Cat. GG-2262
oxygen supply to the eye area and
$
.95
Gentle air pressure - to reduce eye
strain.
99
Anti Bacterial Toothbrush Holder
Pedometer with FM Radio and
Calorie Counter
Keep track of your calories!
You can input the food you
have eaten, and it will count
down how far to go until you
have walked it off. Many other
functions, see our website.
Eye Massager with Heater
Neck Massager with Nature Sound
Travel Sized Anti-Fog Shaving
Mirror with LED Alarm Clock
This innovative unit is slim,
compact and easy to take
travelling.
It features an anti-fog mirror so it can
be used in the shower where a fold
down shower caddy is available to
place shaving equipment or
toothbrushes. It also comes with an
LED Alarm Clock. The
suction cups and clip
Cat. GH-1512
$
.95
hanger allows for easy
installation.
39
Alcohol Breath Tester with
LCD Readout
Stay safe and under the limit on the
roads! This unit is very compact &
features an integrated LCD to give you an
actual readout of your blood alcohol
content.
Cat. QM-7240
69
$
.95
5 in 1 Dynamo Power Bank with
Radio and Lamp
Very versatile! Not only
does this dynamo powered
device have an AM/FM radio
and incandescent lamp, there
is a host of other functions.
There is a 3, 6, 9, and 12VDC
output socket to provide
emergency power, and a plugpack can also be used to
charge the internal battery. It also has two-way
charging; wind the handle to charge Cat. ST-3370
your car battery, or let you car
$
.95
battery charge it!
59
LED Solar Balls
Create a party
atmosphere or add
charm to an intimate
setting with these
environmentally
friendly lights. Made
from water resistant
clear plastic, they feature a solar
panel and an extra bright Light
Emitting Diode (LED). Charge
them up in sunlight for at least 12
hours and enjoy up to 24 hours of
continuous use. They have a light
sensor so they will remain lit in the
dark. The solar ball looks fantastic hung from the
ceiling or trees, you can even float them in the pool
or pond.
ALL COLOURS
ST-3120 Solar ball red
$
.95
ST-3122 Solar all blue
ST-3124 Solar ball white
24
While providing a good
indication of BAC, it should
not be relied on for precise
results, and you should
never drink and drive.
Cat. QM-7294
69.95
$
Air Powered Rocket
Launcher and Pump
Great fun for the whole family!
With the use of the hand pump
the missiles can launch over
30 metres into the air!
•Pump included
Cat. GT-3006
29.95
$
Air Powered Jet Hawk Glider
SAVE
Launch it like a rocket and
$5
watch it soar like a hawk!
Pump up the air powered
launcher and send your Jet
Hawk glider soaring
500 feet (150m) into
the wild blue skies! It
includes a safety feature
to disable launching in horizontal or
vertical positions.
Cat. GT-3440
610mm wing-span.
$
.95
Was $59.95
54
Battery Free Calculator
No more flat batteries or
fading screen on your
calculator!
Simply shake the calculator
side to side and it will be
ready to use in Cat. QM-7275
no time.
$
.95
14
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
MOOD LIGHTING
& LIGHTING KITS
Magic Eggs
Create an intimate party
atmosphere these egg shaped
lights. Watch in amazement as
they change from one colour to
the next. The egg can be lifted
from their recharging base and
placed anywhere around the
house or outdoors. They are lot
safer to use than traditional
candles with the added
benefit of coloured lighting that lasts up to 6 hours
when fully charged. No batteries or wires required.
Includes charging station and mains adaptor.
•Size of egg 95(H) x 65(W) x 70(dia)mm
Single
Three Piece
Cat. GH-1806
Cat. GH-1804
49.95
24
$
$
.95
Desktop Mood Lamp with
Sound Modulation
This flat panel disk produces
an amazing display of blue
light which responds to
your touch, voice or music.
Comes with a removable
stand & can be wall mounted.
Mains power adaptor included.
•254mm/10" (dia.)
•6” version also available
GH-1530 $39.95
BE ON TIME WITH
THESE CLOCKS & WATCHES
Talking Watch
Cat. GH-1532
49.95
$
Colour Master Colour Changing
LED Lighting Kits
Includes 4 x round LED fittings,
12.5m of cable, and controller.
Eight Light Pack
Includes 8 x round LED fitting,
22.5m of cable, and controller.
Cat. ST-3880
79.95
$
Cat. ST-3882
139.95
$
Colour Morphing Disk
This exciting colour morphing
disk features a sound modulation
system that creates unique light
patterns that change in sync with the
sounds or music around it. Requires
4 x AAA batteries (Available
separately). It measures approx.
80mm dia. x 30mm thick.
Cat. GH-1049
34.95
$
This watch makes telling
the time easy!
Announces the time at the touch
of a button. 3 different alarm
sounds - a beep, cuckoo or a
rooster crow. It also
Cat. XC-0258
has a snooze
$
.95
function! CR2016
battery included.
19
Fun and funky!
Mount them in
laminate or
wooden floors, walls, or even ceilings for great
mood lighting. They can be changed from red, blue,
or green, auto changing or static. Supplied with
controller and mains plugpack. Lights measure
80(Dia) x 6(H)•mm. •6mm protruding from mounting
Two packs available:
Four Light Pack
This great looking lamp
changes from hues of red,
purple, blue, green and pink.
It can be automatically set up to
change colours at various speeds
or see it morph to the sound of
your voice or music! It’s perfect
for creating soft ambient lighting
in your bedroom, living room,
dining area or outdoors.
Was $39.95
SAVE
$5
10" Plasma Disk
Cat. GH-1800
19.95
$
Under Cabinet Alarm Clock
Great in the workshop!
This alarm clock can bolt
under an overhead
cabinet, or simply sit on
a desk. Includes an
AM/FM radio so you can wake
up to the morning news or a simple buzzer. The radio
has a bright red display and measures 185(W) x 50(H)
x 110(D)mm, including the cable-tidy Cat. XC-0248
$
.95
at the rear of the radio.
•Mains powered.
24
Oscillating Message Board
This futuristic unit displays a
message, time, or date, without a
solid display. It uses a fast
oscillating arm with LED's.Using
precision timing, and clever
calculations,it appears to display the
message in thin air!It can be
programmed to cycle through the
user programmed messages, or
simply display the time and date.
Cat. XC-0198
69.95
$
GREAT NEW 2.4GHZ WIRELESS SYSTEMS & SURVEILLANCE EQUIPMENT
2.4GHz 4 Channel Wireless Receiver
with Remote Control
2.4GHz Wireless Colour
CCD Pinhole Camera
High quality picture!
A Sharp 1/4" CCD
sensor provides clear
420TV line resolution
picture, and can transmit it up to
100m to the receiver (use QC-3588).
A mains plugpack is included, and there are two
channels available:
Both Types
Channel 1 Cat. QC-3560
$
EA
Channel 2 Cat. QC-3561
Audio and video!
Receiving up to four 2.4GHz
cameras (any of the cameras
shown left), you can switch
between cameras manually,
or set it to automatic.
Composite video output
allows display or recording
on any device. A mains plugpack and
RCA cables are also supplied.
2.4GHz Weather Resistant Wireless
Colour CCD Camera with IR LEDs
2.4GHz 4 Channel Wireless USB Receiver
229
Night vision!
As well as 420TV line resolution,
this camera has 27 integrated
infrared LEDs to see in the dark. It is
weatherproof, great for mounting
under eaves, and a mains plugpack is
included. QC-3588 receiver required.
Two channels available:
Both Types
Channel 3 Cat. QC-3564 $
EA
Channel 4 Cat. QC-3565
269
2.4GHz Wireless Colour CCD
Rechargeable Camera with Audio
The ultimate in portability!
This camera features an internal
Lithium-Ion rechargeable battery
that can operate the camera for
up to 5hrs per charge. Channel
selectable to use with Cat. QC-3595
.95
QC-3588 receiver, see $
website for details.
169
129
Surveillance on your computer!
This tiny four channel receiver takes the pain out of
surveillance.Just plug it into your PC’s USB port
and you’re set. You
can view cameras on the
PC, with a composite
option for a TV or monitor
too. There is a host
of on-board functions
such as email alert
on motion detection,
and a whole lot more. See page
313 of our 2005 catalogue for more info. Cat. QC-3597
$
.95
249
2.4GHz Wireless Colour LCD Receiver
Roam while monitoring!
Now you can take your surveillance
monitor with you to watch the kids, or
keep a lookout for potential thieves. It
has a 65cm LCD and a speaker for
audio. See 2005 catalogue
Cat. QC-3596
page 312 for compatible
$
.00
cameras.
299
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
Cat. QC-3593
$
.95
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
5" B&W Surveillance System
Quick and simple! Consisting of a 5" B&W
surveillance monitor, two cameras, and two dummy
cameras, you can keep an eye on your premises.
The real cameras simply plug
in with their 10m lead,
and the dummy
cameras look
identical. Great for
small shops.
Cat. QC-3446
$
.00
149
Four Zone Security Alarm System
with Simple Two Wire Hookup
The alarm is so
simple to set up
you DIY
enthusiasts will
love it! All system
components
(sensors,
sirens) are
connected to the
control unit via a two-core non-polar flat wire.
The unit has a built-in keypad with status LED and
three modes or operation (Home, Out, Off). All
sensors and sounders are line protected so any
attempt to interfere will sound the alarm.
Supplied with: •Main control unit •Two PIRs
•Four Door or Window contact reed switch
•External Siren
•240VAC Adaptor
•50m two-core flat wire and clips
•Screw/wall plug packs
•Main unit: 160(H) x185(W) x35(D)mm Cat. LA-5475
$
.00
•Extra PIR to suit LA-5476 $29.95
199
5
Buy in Bulk and Save
We have a massive range of rechargeable high capacity batteries and chargers!
Check out these NiMH AA/AAA individual and bulk prices.
Cat. #
Terminal Type
SB-1723 nipple AAA
SB-1724 solder tag AAA
SB-1700 nipple AA
SB-1706 nipple AA
SB-1708 solder tag AA
SB-1727 nipple AA
PACKETS OF FOUR
SB-1739 nipple AAA
SB-1737 nipple AA
SB-1735 nipple AA
Capacity
900mAh
900mAh
1650mAh
2000mAh
2000mAh
2400mAh
Qty 1+ BUY 10 FOR
$2.79 ea
$2.45 ea
$3.78 ea
$3.30 ea
$2.95 ea
$2.60 ea
$3.95 ea
$3.45 ea
$5.75 ea
$4.95 ea
$5.95 ea
$5.25 ea
900mAh $11.95 ea
2000mAh $15.95 ea
2400mAh $19.95 ea
Bulk Pack Alkaline Batteries
These bulk packs of alkaline
batteries represent excellent
value for money.
We have them made to the same
specifications of those well known
expensive brands advertised on TV,
but at a realistic price.
With a shelf life past the year 2010 you cannot go wrong!
AAA Alkalines Cat. SB-2331
Bulk Pk of 24
$12.95
AA Alkalines
Cat. SB-2330
Bulk Pk of 24
$12.95
AA Alkalines
Cat. SB-2332
Bulk Pk of 40
$19.95
AA/AAA Ni-Cd/Ni-MH Battery Charger with LCD
Recharge either four of, AA, AAA Ni-Cd, NiMH, or rechargeable batteries. Features a
quick and easy logic-controlled function to
discharge the batteries before the charging
cycle starts to extend battery service life and
maintain storage capacity. The charger has an
LCD display that shows the battery charge
state and is supplied with a mains plug-pack.
•Charging Time: 1 - 2 hours
Cat. MB-3542
•LED & LCD Display
$
.95
•Automatic Discharge function
49
Great reliability! Pure Sine Wave inverters
provide a mains waveform that is much closer
to that of conventional mains supplies. This is
much better and sometimes required when
powering sensitive equipment, some
switchmode power supplies etc.
$1.25 ea
$1.60 ea
$2.25 ea
1 Hour Super Fast Battery Charger
Ni-Cd/Ni-MH w/car Adapter SAVE
$7
Never find yourself with
flat batteries again.
This battery charger
recharges 1 to 4
pieces of AA or AAA
batteries in one hour.
Along with the AC adaptor is a 12V
Cat. MB-3537
.95
cigarette car adaptor. Voltage input of $
100-240VAC Was $69.95
62
Battery Fighter® Chargers
Designed to fully charge and
maintain a lead acid battery at the
correct storage voltage without
the damaging effects caused by
trickle charges. Ideal for vintage
cars, boats or planes that sit for
months at a time without use. Lack of use causes
a lead-acid battery to self discharge and may result
in a destroyed cell. A replacement battery will cost
Cat. MB-3600
more than these chargers.
.95
12V 750mA Battery Fighter® Charger $
49
Cat. MB-3602
$
.95
12V 1.2A Battery Fighter® Charger
Battery, Bulb and Fuse Tester
A no-fuss battery tester with fuse and bulb
checker. It checks bulbs and fuses, giving a
'good' or 'replace' indication, and will also test
larger 1.5V button batteries like the CR2032.
There is also a handy compartment to store spare
fuses, bulbs and button cells.
Cat. QP-2252
$ .95
A must for every toolbox.
Remote switching of appliances!
This wireless mains
system can support up to
five outlets, each with
their individual On/Off
buttons on the remote
control. They are rated at
a maximum of 1,000
Watts, so please check
the power consumption
of high current devices.
Supplied with one remote
control, and one mains switch.
Cat. MS-6100
SAA APPROVED.
$
.95
Battery Charger & Alternator Tester
Quickly indicates the condition of
your 12V battery, charger or alternator.
It uses 3 LEDs (12.6V Full, 12.0V 50% and
11.5V Low, to indicate battery condition),
and 3 LEDs (15.5V Over voltage / Regulator
failure, 14.5V Max. Charger Voltage, 13.2V
Charger and Alternator
Cat. QP-2258
Charging) to indicate
$ .95
Charger/Alternator
output.
39
Extra mains switches
Cat. MS-6102 $29.95ea.
9
Lead Acid Battery Conditioner
Sealed Lead Acid Batteries
High quality batteries! Our range of SLA
batteries represent excellent value for money.
They feature leak proof construction, long
service life, high discharge capability, deep
discharge recovery, and more. Don’t use low
quality SLA batteries to save a dollar or two, you
will just end up replacing them even sooner.
Capacity
Cat. No.
Voltage
6 Volts
4.2Ah
SB-2496
6 Volts
12Ah
SB-2497
12 Volts
1.3Ah
SB-2480
12 Volts
2.2Ah
SB-2482
12 Volts
4.2Ah
SB-2484
12 Volts
7.2Ah
SB-2486
12 Volts
18Ah
SB-2490
79
Remote Controlled Mains Switch
9
6
$10.70 ea
$14.35 ea
$17.70 ea
SAVE
$$$
SAVE
$0.34 ea
$0.48 ea
$0.35 ea
$0.50 ea
$0.80 ea
$0.70 ea
$12.95
$29.95
$19.95
$24.95
$35.00
$36.50
$44.95
STOP PRESS STOP PRESS
W E HAVE A MA S S IVE
RANGE OF INVERTERS
Pure Sine Wave Inverters
Removes or reduces sulphation
which kills batteries.
As many of you know, when wetcell lead acid batteries are allowed
to sit around they will sulphate up
in as short a time as 6 months.
The sulphate builds up on the
plates and separators. This
product basically dissolves the
sulphation. The product is so good
that the manufacturer will extend
the warranty on a new battery by
a year if used when the battery is
new.
One bottle will do up to a N7OZ
size battery (4WD, boat, truck,
etc.)
Power Surge
VDC VAC Cat. No. Price
150W (300W) 12 to 230 MI-5080 $229
Suits battery chargers, fax machines etc.
300W (500W) 12 to 230 MI-5082 $289
Suits laptops, lamps and fluorescents up to
300W, 34cm TVs etc
500W (1000W) 12 to 230 MI-5085 $329
Suits power tools, laptops, microwaves,
blenders, small fridges etc
1000W (2000W) 12 to 230 MI-5088 $799
Suits Hi-Fi systems, computers, 68cm TVs,
lighting, fridges etc!
1500W (2500W) 24 to 230 MI-5089 $999
Suits large TVs, many power tools, lighting,
computers and more
Modified Square Wave Inverters
Great value! With a host of safety features
such as overload & short circuit protection,
dielectric isolation between the battery and
secondary voltages and more. They all have
excellent surge ratings and boast over 90%
efficiency.
Power Surge VDC VAC Cat. No. Price
100W (300W) 12 to 230 MI-5100 $44.95
Suits battery chargers, small lights, and low
power devices
150W (450W) 12 to 230 MI-5102 $48.95
Suits battery chargers, fax machines etc!
300W (1000W) 12 to 230 MI-5104 $119.95
Suits laptops, lamps & fluorescents up to
300W, 34cm TVs etc
400W (1200W) 12 to 230 MI-5106 $159.95
Suits laptops, lamps & fluorescents up to
400W, 54cm TVs etc
400W (1200W) 24 to 230 MI-5107 $169.95
Suits laptops, lamps & fluores to 400W, 54cm
TVs & more from 24V
600W (1500W) 12 to 230 MI-5108 $249.95
Suits power tools, 68cm TVs, laptops,
microwaves, small fridges etc
800W (2000W) 12 to 230 MI-5110 $299.95
Suits power tools, 68cm TVs, blenders, small
fridges, microwaves etc
1000W(2500W) 12 to 230 MI-5112 $399.95
Suits Hi-Fi systems, computers, 68cm TVs,
lighting, fridges etc
1500W(3500W) 12 to 230 MI-5114 $599.95
Suits large TVs, many power tools, lighting,
computers etc
STOP PRESS STOP PRESS
IEC320 to Mains Socket – UPS Lead
Cat. NA-1420
$ .95
8
Here at last!
After countless requests
we have a lead to plug
mains devices into a UPS
which has IEC320
sockets. 150mm long.
Cat. PS-4100
$ .95
9
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
Mini Laboratory Magnifier Lamp
SAVE
$20
90mm diameter lens and a 12 Watt
circular globe enclosed behind a clear
protective housing mounted on a
300mm flexible gooseneck. Lens
magnification is 3 dioptre and the lens
includes a hinged cover to protect the
top of the lens when it's used as a lamp
or not in use. (Replacement fluoro tube Cat. QM-3520
$
.95
QM3521 $9.95). Was $69.95
49
Bench Laboratory Magnifier Lamp
115mm diameter lens with a 3
dioptre magnification, a quality
steel cantilever arm and two
swivel joints and a 22 Watt
circular fluoro light. Max reach of
the head is over 450mm. The base
measures 200(W) x 280(D) x
40(H)mm. The lamp is 240VAC
operated. (Replacement fluoro tube
QM-3523 $13.95).
1 Farad 5.5V Super Capacitor
10mW Green Laser Module
Extremely bright!
This laser module
consists of a 10mW
laser diode, lens, and driver PCB. Simply connect a
3VDC supply, & you have a great high
Cat. ST-3117
power laser. •Datasheet included.
$
.95
•Measures 65(L) x 11(dia)mm.
Massive capacity!
These are high capacity 1 Farad
capacitors made by ELNA in Japan.
Very useful for 5V memory retention in
volatile chips. PCB mount. Cat. RU-6705
$ .95
Special introductory price!
Cat III Auto Ranging DMM
Coax Seal Tape
149
No more water ingress!
Seal your outdoor coaxial
connections to prevent
moisture entering the connectors which
hampers signal quality and causes corrosion.
Simply wrap it around the connector and cable,
and it will turn into a removable water
Cat. NM-2828
resistant seal that lasts for years.
$ .95
•12mm wide
As used by NASA
and the US military
•1.5m length.
Double moulded housing!
It features large digits, Cat III 600V
certification, and is designed for the
professional and serious enthusiast.
•Capacitance.
•Frequency.
Cat. QM-1539
•Relative
$
.95
measurement.
69
Cat. QM-3522
$
.00
149
Desk Clamp Magnifier Light
This is a high quality, all metal
frame construction magnifier which
features a 22 watt circular fluoro
built inside the magnifier head. The
magnifier itself is a 3 dioptre lens.
Total extended length 990mm.
Cat. QM-3525
(Replacement fluoro tube
$
.00
QM-3523 $13.95)
109
IDEAL Non - Contact
60 to 400VAC Tester
Great for every
tradesman’s pocket!
Gives an audible
and visual
indication on
energised circuits. It has an unlimited
lifetime warranty, and is rated at CAT
III 600V.
Cat. QP-2274
$
.95
29
9
Mini AC/DC Current Clamp Meter
Includes voltage
detection!
Rated at Cat II
600V, this clamp
meter can measure
AC or DC current up to 200A,
and features an integrated non-contact Cat. QM-1564
.95
voltage sensor. Supplied with a leather $
like belt pouch.
99
Laser Level with Tape Measure
Whether you are a handy person
around the house or a
professional, you’ll love
this laser level with tape
measure. Use this tool to hang pictures, paintings or
mirrors in your home, install shelving, lay tiles etc.
The range of the laser line projects up to 6m indoor
and covers an arc of 45 and 90 degrees. The unit
incorporates a horizontally spread laser to create
illuminated guide lines along walls,
Cat. ST-3113
horizontal and vertical levels. It also
$
.95
includes a handy 2.5m tape measure
as well as a ruler on the side.
39
90 - 300VAC / DC
Voltage Tester
Handy Laser Level
A quick go / no go indication.
Great for simply testing to see if a
wire is live. High quality
Cat. QP-2240
insulated probes,
$ .95
neon indication.
3
GPO Mains and Earth Leakage Tester
Make GPO installation and
checking a breeze!
Identifies problems with wiring,
and checks earth leakage circuit
breakers using
Cat. QP-2000
selectable trip
$
.95
current.
19
Looks like an ordinary spirit
level, except that it has a laser
fitted in one end. The laser projects a
straight line that covers about 15° of arc
and can be viewed over many
metres, thus enabling a very
SAVE
accurate level to be maintained over
$5
quite a distance. Fitted with magnets in the
base so it can be 'stuck' to steel frames and comes
with its own small tripod. Dual bubbles ensure that
levels can be maintained in both vertical and
Cat. ST-3114
horizontal planes. Measures
$
.95
170(L)x45(H)x20(W)mm. Was $29.95
Solder Sucker and Blower Bulb
Quick and simple!
Cheap, compact and effective, you
can buy a few so you always have
one handy. Measures approx
50(D) x 110(L)mm.
Cat. TH-1850
$ .95
3
Fibre Optic Adaptor for Maglites
Light only travels in
straight lines, but you can
make it bend with this Fibre Optic
adaptor. A small attachment fits right over
the head of your torch, and is attached to a
180mm (7") fibre optic cable. It gives you a
flexible light source to get into those places your
Maglight won't go. With a
diameter of just 3mm, it
really can get into those
tight spaces. Cat. ST-3410
$
.95
14
LED Upgrade Kit for Maglites
Better efficiency!
Upgrade the bulb in
your AA Maglite™
to this unit that has 3
LEDs. Because LEDs are
so efficient, you get four
times longer battery life,
and LEDs don’t blow! This
is the single best upgrade
to a torch you can make!
24
PORTASOL SOLDERING IRONS
Portasol Technic Gas Soldering Iron
Portasol 50 Gas Soldering Iron
SAVE
Great entry level iron!
$15
With a fixed tip temperature
of 350°C, it is suitable for a
range of applications. 35W approximate electrical
Cat. TS-1300
equivalent, with a 30min run-time
$
.95
from a refill. Limited qty. Was $39.95
24
The Portasol Technic combines compact power, and
convenient reliability, making it one of the most
versatile gas soldering irons available. It offers a run
time of around 60 minutes, and tip temperature is
adjustable up to 450°C. With equivalent electrical
power of between 10 and 60 Watts, it is ready to
tackle just about anything. The protective end cap
features a built in flint type ignitor, and if the gas is
left on, it will turn it off when replaced. If a compact,
versatile, and reliable gas iron
Cat. TS-1305
is what you’re after, then the
$
.95
Portasol Technic is for you.
49
Portasol Pro Piezo Gas Soldering Iron
Adjustable temperature
control up to 580°C.
It incorporates a viewing
window at the end of the gas tank, to keep an eye on
the fuel level. The fuel tank fills in around 20 seconds,
and will provide approximately 45 minutes of run time.
Ignition is via the built in Piezo crystal mechanism, and
the end cap provides safety gas shut off when
replaced. The Portasol Pro Piezo is a
Cat. TS-1310
dream to use, and will not let you down. $
.95
Supplied with a 2.4mm double flat tip.
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
4
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
84
Cat. ST-3400
$
.75
14
Portasol Super Pro Gas Soldering Iron
The big brother of all irons in the range.
It features adjustable tip temperature up to 580°C,
with equivalent electrical power of between 25 and
125W! Ignition is achieved with the internal Piezo
crystal mechanism, and run time is around 2 hours
on a 30 second refill. With the various tips available
Cat. TS-1320
and huge power at hand, no job is a
$
.00
match for the Portasol Super Pro.
99
FREE 150G BUTANE GAS*
Use it for filling up your gas iron,
flame torch, cigarette lighter etc.
*Buy any Portasol gas soldering iron during
the month of September and receive this
150 gram can of butane gas can, free!
NORMALY $5.95
Cat. NA-1020
Cannot be sent by post
7
VELLEMAN USB Controlled Interface Kit
No parallel, no problems!
This interface kit offers
5 digital and 2 analogue
inputs, as well as 8
digital and 2 analogue
outputs! That is
plenty for
experimenting and
interfacing with your
home or devices in many ways. It is powered straight
from the USB port, and even has on-board test
functions. The kit is supplied with all components, silk
screened PCB, assembly manual, and Cat. KV-3600
software. You will not be disappointed. $
.95
69
Digital Fuel Mixture Display Kit
Monitor your car’s
air:fuel ratio in
real time.
Ref: Silicon Chip
Sept/Oct 2000.
This brilliant dash
mounting unit
features a three
digit LED display, as
well as a bargraph for readings at a glance. It
indicates air:fuel in real time of 11.8 - 20.6 for
petrol, and 12.7-21.5 for propane/LPG. It has loads
of great features, just check out our Cat. KC-5300
website. Kit includes PCBs, laser cut $
.95
panels, pre-programmed PIC,
and all electronic components.
62
This clock is hypnotic!
Ref: SC June 2005. It consists of an
AVR driven clock circuit, and also
produces a dazzling display with
the 60 LEDs around the perimeter.
It looks amazing, but can’t properly be
explained here. We have filmed it in action
so you can see for yourself on our website, so
check it out! Kit supplied with double sided
silkscreened plated through hole PCB, and all
board components as
Cat. KC-5404
EXCLUSIVE
well as the special
$
.00
TO JAYCAR
clock housing.
EXCLUSIVE TO JAYCAR!
This kit enables you to make a full-sized electronic
scoreboard, in particular for Basketball but also
adaptable for netball and other games.
Ref: Silicon Chip
March/April/May
2005. It can be
built for a fraction
of the cost of
commercial
equivalents and
has a completely
wireless scoring
console that can
Wine Cooler Kit
control one or multiple scoreMake a cheap wine cooler!
boards. You can mount the scoreRef: SC June 05. This project turns
boards high up in the court, plug it
a regular fridge or freezer into a
in to a 240VAC power point and then
wine cooler by accurately controlling
control them from a table courtside with no messy
the temperature to make it suitable for
wiring. It features Home/Away team scores 0 to 199,
wine storage. A much cheaper option than
game period, countdown time, Home/Away time and
commercial units. Kit supplied with PCB, Cat. KC-5413 the addition of a new 'foul' feature. It measures 900 x
.95 600mm and comes with all pre-cut scoreboard
case, mains plug & all elec. components. $
woodwork, screen printed face, display filters,
AC/DC Current Clamp Meter
mounting plates, pre-programmed microcontroller,
Kit for DMMs
printed circuit boards, 2.4GHz transmitters & receivers,
A cheap alternative!
pre-punched control console with special piezo end-ofRef: SC Sept ’03. It works with
game quarter sounder, and all electronic Cat. KC-5408
your DMM just like a professional
$
.95
components to make one scoreboard.
clamp meter. Kit includes PCB, case, Cat. KC-5368
Extra Scoreboards Available
$
.95
hall effect sensor, pre-cut core, and
Contain everything included in the original kit without
electronic components.
parts for the control console. Cat. KC-5409 $649
129
39
NEW SOUTH WALES
Albury
Ph (02) 6021 6788
Alexandria
Ph (02) 9699 4699
Bankstown
Ph (02) 9709 2822
Bondi Junction Ph (02) 9369 3899
Brookvale
Ph (02) 9905 4130
Campbelltown Ph (02) 4620 7155
Erina
Ph (02) 4365 3433
Hornsby
Ph (02) 9476 6221
Newcastle
Ph (02) 4965 3799
Parramatta
Ph (02) 9683 3377
Penrith
Ph (02) 4721 8337
Silverwater
Ph (02) 9741 8557
St. Leonards Ph (02) 9439 4799
Sydney City
Ph (02) 9267 1614
Taren Point
Ph (02) 9531 7033
Wollongong
Ph (02) 4226 7089
VICTORIA
Coburg
Ph (03) 9384 1811
Frankston
Ph (03) 9781 4100
Geelong
Ph (03) 5221 5800
Melbourne
Ph (03) 9663 2030
Ringwood
Ph (03) 9870 9053
Springvale
Ph (03) 9547 1022
Sunshine
Ph (03) 9310 8066
QUEENSLAND
Aspley
Ph (07) 3863 0099
Brisbane - Woolloongabba
Ph (07) 3393 0777
Gold Coast - Mermaid Beach
Ph (07) 5526 6722
Townsville
Ph (07) 4772 5022
Underwood
Ph (07) 3841 4888
AUSTRALIAN CAPITAL TERRITORY
Canberra
Ph (02) 6239 1801
TASMANIA
Hobart
Ph (03) 6272 9955
SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Adelaide
Ph (08) 8231 7355
Clovelly Park Ph (08) 8276 6901
WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Perth
Ph (08) 9328 8252
NORTHERN TERRITORY
Darwin
Ph (08) 8948 4043
NEW ZEALAND
Hamilton
Ph (07) 846 0177
Newmarket - Auckland
Ph (09) 377 6421
Glenfield - Auckland
Ph (09) 444 4628
Wellington
Ph (04) 801 9005
Christchurch Ph (03) 379 1662
Freecall Orders Ph 0800 452 9227
8
Ref: SC Jan ‘05.
Be the envy of your
mates as they hear
the rumble when
they press your doorbell. You
may have seen commercially available
units, but nothing like this. It sounds just
like a V8, & has variable background noise
for tappets & valves etc for an even more
realistic effect. 2 versions available:
Full V8 Doorbell Kit
Supplied with PCBs, silk-screened and
machined case, push button bell switch,
speaker, hook-up wire, and all electronic
components. Includes optional 120mm
length of 100mm dia.pipe Cat. KC-5405
$
.95
for that extrarumble!
79
Short Form V8 Doorbell Kit
Contains the working electronics only.
Supplied with PCBs, and all electronic
components. No case,
Cat. KC-5406
speaker, or pushbutton
$
.95
etc supplied
49
Regulated Voltage Adaptor Kit
Very versatile!
Ref: EA Aug ’97.
Get a regulated 3
to 15VDC voltage
at up to 1.5A from a car
battery or ATX power
supply. Includes PCB
and components.
799
34
YOUR LOCAL JAYCAR STORE V8 Engine Door Bell Kit
Freecall Orders: Ph 1800 022 888
Wireless Basketball Scoreboard Kit
"Clock Watchers" LED Clock Kit
Cat. KA-1797
$ .95
6
The SHORT CIRCUITS LEARNING SYSTEM
Short Circuits is a great way to learn electronics. It is fun,
informative, & you build great projects along the way.
Here is just one from Short Circuits 3
FM Microphone
This FM transmitter has many possible uses including baby room
monitor, wireless microphone or spy bug. It can be picked up on
any FM radio. •Kit includes PCB, electret microphone and
electronic components.
Nitrous Fuel Mixture/ Motor
Speed Controller Kit
Ref: High Performance
Electronic Projects for
Cars - Silicon Chip
Publications.
Pulse a fuel
injector in a
nitrous system.
When activated, it will fire the injector at a
preset duty cycle, adding a fixed amount of
nitrous fuel. This is a far cheaper alternative to
a dedicated fuel solenoid and jets. It also
makes a great motor controller, to control an
electronic water pump, additional fuel pump,
cooling fans and more. It is suitable for use
with most fuel injectors, or pumps and motors
up to 10 amps. Kit supplied with PCB and all
electronic components.
Cat. KC-5382
• Please note that the use of
$
.95
Nitrous Oxide systems is for
race use only. Use of these
systems on the street is illegal.
24
Performance Electronics for Cars Book
Universal Voltage Switch Kit
PRICES VALID TO
END SEPTEMBER 2005
9
High Energy Ignition Kit
Less emissions!
Ref: SC June ’98.
A high energy
0.9ms spark burns
fuel faster and
more efficiently to
give you more
power! Includes PCB,
case, and all electronic Cat. KC-5247
components.
$
.95
•Limited quantity
52
Fuel Mixture Display Kit
Is your car
running right?
Ref: SC Nov ’95. It
gives an indication
of fuel mixture via 10
LEDs. Kit includes
PCB and all electronic
components.
Cat. KC-5195
$
.95
14
Car Turbo Timer Kit
Over 160 pages! The Performance Electronics for Cars Book from
Silicon Chip publications has chapters on modification and theory, as
well as the 16 projects. Here is just one… Cat. BS-5080 $19.80
Automatic device switching!
Use it to trigger cooling systems, fans,
and more from sensors. This can
include temperature sensors, throttle
position sensors and more. Kit includes
PCB and all electronic components.
Cat. KJ-8078
$ .95
Cat. KC-5377
$
.95
29
Save your turbo!
It idles your car for a set
time after the
ignition is
switched off to aid
in turbo cooling.
Includes PCB, case,
relay, and all
Cat. KC-5254
electronic
$
.95
components.
29
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
Order
Form/Tax Invoice
Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd
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www.siliconchip.com.au
PRICE GUIDE: SUBSCRIPTIONS
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back issues. 10% discount for 10 or more issues or photocopies. Australia: $A8.80 each (including p&p). Overseas:
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eptember
2005 61
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2097
09-05
PRODUCT SHOWCASE
Bargain oscilloscope has 10MHz bandwidth
For most electronic enthusiasts,
an oscilloscope is pretty much out of
reach, as they cannot justify the cost for
a reasonable instrument, particularly
if it has two channels.
But this single channel 10MHz oscilloscope is certainly within the reach
of a majority of enthusiasts and will
be of considerable interest to many
technicians as well.
Apart from an accurate digital multimeter, the most desirable test instrument for any technician or enthusiast
is a modern oscilloscope.
Up till now, the only way that most
enthusiasts could afford a scope was
to purchase a very old, secondhand
unit but these would of doubtful reliability and parts can be impossible
to obtain.
Now the equation has changed
with the introduction of this compact
single-channel oscilloscope from Dick
Smith Electronics.
Measuring 220mm high, 92mm high
and 293mm deep (including front
panel knobs), the scope will easily
fit onto most workbenches or a small
shelf above. It has a small screen with
a graticule measuring 48 x 60mm. The
graticule is not illuminated but is easy
to see, being divided into 10 horizontal
and eight vertical divisions (one div
= 6mm).
Vertical sensitivity can be switched
in 10 steps from 5mV/div to 5V/div,
in a 1-2-5 sequence. The vertical sensitivity can be further reduced to 50V/
div when using the supplied probe in
the x10 attenuation setting, giving a
maximum input signal of 400V peakto-peak.
Apart from the vertical sensitivity
control, other Y-input controls are
a variable sensitivity control (2.5:1
range), a vertical position control and
an input-coupling switch to give AC
or DC coupling or GND (grounding
the input signal to allow precise trace
positioning on the screen.
The horizontal timebase switch has
a range from 0.1uS to 0.1S/div, again in
a 1-2-5 sequence. Also in timebase section of the front panel are three knobs
for variable timebase (2.5:1 range), a
horizontal trace position control and
the trigger level control.
As well, there slide switches for trigger mode (Auto, Normal and TV sync),
Slope (positive or negative slope triggering and trigger source (Y input, Line
or External) and there is a BNC socket
for an external trigger source.
Just next to the screen are two knobs
for focus and brightness controls and
these can be adjusted to give a very
satisfactory bright and finely focussed
display. There is also a contact for an
internal 1kHz 0.5V p-p square wave
signal which is useful for adjusting
the probe compensation and checking
timebase settings.
Inside, the unit appears to be very
well made with good quality discrete
components and a few 7400-series
logic chips. No surface-mount chips
are present and the power supply is
all analog, not switchmode, so servicing, if it is eventually required, should
be straightforward. What more could
you want?
A brief check of its performance
shows that its –3dB bandwidth is close
to 10MHz, as stated. In fact, it has quite
useable response to 15MHz.
And the price? An almost miraculous $158 including GST. How do they
do it? Made in China, no doubt but a
bargain nonetheless. See it at your local Dick Smith Electronics store.
Contact:
Dick Smith Electronics (all stores)
PO Box 500, Regents Park DC NSW 2143.
Tel: 1300 366 644 Fax: (02) 9642 9155
Website: www.dse.com.au
STEPDOWN
TRANSFORMERS
60VA to 3KVA encased toroids
Harbuch Electronics Pty Ltd
9/40 Leighton Pl. HORNSBY 2077
Ph (02) 9476-5854 Fx (02) 9476-3231
62 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Asus WL-330 Pocket Wireless Access Point
Imagine having an office meeting and, as is typical
today, everyone arrives with their research and reports
on their laptops/notebooks. Instead of printing out hard
copies of everything, each person was able to view each
other’s reports on their own wireless-equipped laptops
in just a couple of minutes.
Want information from the company PC or network?
Easy! Want to transfer files back and forth? Easy! And if
you really needed a hard copy, you simply went into the
print menu and printed on the network printer!
Or perhaps you’re travelling overseas on business.
The hotel has thoughtfully provided an Internet (RJ45)
socket on the wall – but not wireless. You don’t want to
be tied to the wall socket when you could be outside on
the balcony, working wirelessly on your laptop. Well,
just do it!
Or perhaps the wireless internet access in your home
or office doesn’t quite make it as far as you’d like. You’d
really like a device which could extend the range without losing the wireless flexibility you now enjoy. Well,
just do it!
If all this sounds a bit fanciful, it’s not: all you need is
this multi-skilled, tiny WL-330 Pocket Wireless Access
Point from Asus. As we will see, it’s much more than
even its name suggests!
With it, you can very quickly set up a wireless network – anywhere, anytime. It will enable any Ethernetcapable devices to go wireless themselves. It will act as
a bridge/repeater to extend your wireless coverage. It’s a
cost-effective, simple way to integrate multiple wireless
networks.
The WL-330 is not a new device – it has been around for
the best part of a year (maybe even a bit more overseas).
But we were intrigued by the “rave” reviews we’d seen
on this, especially in comparison to its big brothers, that
we just had to grab one and find out for ourselves when
the opportunity arose.
And arise it did, via a flit through eBay looking for
nothing in particular! We spotted this device and were
immediately interested. So we contacted the supplier,
XPMicro, and found that even the retail price wasn’t too
bad, either (it was even better on eBay!).
Perhaps its low price is because the WL-330 is an
802.11b device - and these days, everyone knows you just
gotta have the latest 802.11g! But as we have discussed in
recent issues of SILICON CHIP, “b” is more than adequate
when it comes to ’net access and isn’t all that shabby for
such mundane things as file transfer, either.
Back to this device. First of all, it’s tiny – about 85 x 63
x 18mm. They say about the size of a deck of cards, which
isn’t too far wrong. It almost feels as light as a pack of cards
– pick it up and you’d swear it was an empty case!
Second, it’s fully self contained – the two antennas are
inside the case and it can be powered by the computer’s
USB port if you wish (adaptor cable supplied). There is
also a 100-240V AC “universal” 4V DC adaptor included,
as is an Ethernet cable. All this comes in a handy 150 x
130 x 35mm “travel pack” – large enough to fit everything
except the setup CD and instructions.
siliconchip.com.au
While that might seem like an oversight, once you have
set the WL-330 up once, you probably won’t need the CD
and instructions again! A web configuration utility allows
you to configure the WL-330 using your web browser.
You can run it in access point mode or Ethernet mode,
simply by flipping a switch on the bottom of the unit.
You don’t need any knowledge of TCP/IP to use it, unlike
some adaptors which assume you are a genius!
The WL-330 is obviously intended for a mobile (ie,
travelling) market (it’s way under half the size and weight
of most access points) but it is just as viable at home or in
the office. Performance is pretty well “as expected” from
an 802.11b device – a bit over 5Mb throughput (which
is getting close to the maximum – the rest is taken up
with overhead). Range was a surprise – for something
with internal antennas we weren’t expecting to realise
Asus’s claim of 40m indoors because this is under ideal
conditions with “indoors” usually meaning one end of
a large room to another with no intervening walls, filing
cabinets, people, etc. However, in a typical house and
office it reached better than 15m. That figure is important
for home users, because the average Aussie suburban
house sits on a 15m-wide block – enough said?
One thing, though: the WL-330 does run fairly hot, so
we’d ensure good ventilation around it. And that heat
has to be powered by something – so we’d suggest running from the plugpack where possible, not the laptop
batteries via the USB port.
The WL-330 has a retail price of $69.00.
Contact:
XPMicro
Unit 2, 101 Derby St, Silverwater, NSW 2128
Tel: (02) 9748 6439/6469 Fax: (02) 9748 6489
Website: www.xpmicro.com.au
September 2005 63
Altronics opening this month in
Melbourne, looking for staff . . .
After their successful move into the
Sydney retail electronics market last
year, Altronics are further expanding
with a new retail store in Melbourne.
Located at 891 Princes Highway,
Springvale, the new store will be their
largest to date and will be opening at
the end of September.
Keep your eye on the Altronics
website at www.altronics.com.au for
more information.
Altronics are looking for motivated
individuals to man their new operation starting early to mid September.
Positions include a full time retail
manager, full time and
casual retail sales staff,
plus full time and casual warehouse staff.
Applications for
sales positions must
have a sound knowledge and an interest in
electronics. Warehouse
staff should have relevant warehouse experience.
If you are interested
in working for Altronics, you can contact Paul Zervaas on 03 9574 6211 or
via email at paul.zervaas<at>altronics.
com.au
LED Light Fittings
Wall
Mount
Various colours
and types –
- Bullet
- Square
- Round in Gold
- Chrome
- Satin Chrome
- White
- Black.
Please view website.
We stock a complete range of especially selected
quality light fittings for most applications.
These fittings complement our LED-based MR16 lamps
and are factory assembled for long life operation.
Direct connection to 12V (AC or DC) makes these
lights ideal for back-up or emergency lighting
and for use in low-power (energy saving) systems.
All light fittings are supplied fully assembled
and fitted with 3Watt High-Power LEDs,
withlow power consumption, typically
300mA <at>12V
Ideal for Caravans, Motorhomes, Boating
and Camping applications.
Waterproof/
Outdoor
Various types
available –
- Brass
- Bronze
- Stainless Steel
- Black
- Green
Ceiling Mount
(Stainless Steel)
We also stock a full range of other Ceiling, Wall mount
and Outdoor type light fittings.
Please visit our web site to view a full and detailed
colour brochure of all fittings available and request
further information.
Hi-Output MR16 LED LAMPS
Uses 3 Watt Hi-Output LED with Expected Life 50,000 hours plus
Input 12-24VDC or 12-18VAC (low power consumption, 300mA <at>12V)
Up to 60 Lumens light output
Wide beam angle 110° (Narrow beam angle available soon)
Total height 39mm (+ Pins) (colour changing longer)
Standard 50mm diameter. Drop-in for MR16 lamp housing
No UV or Heat radiation (Run much cooler than standard halogens)
Conforms to IEC, CE & EN standards
For use with “iron core” transformers (electronic type not recommended)
64 Silicon Chip
COLOURS:
3 Shades of white & 10 colours available:
Sun White, Cool White, Warm White,
Red, Amber, Orange, Purple, Magenta, Green,
Grass Green, Blue, Light Blue, Cyan
PLUS:
Multicolour changing lamp with RGB LED
(cycles through various Red, Green, Blue
colour changing routines)
Colour control option via IR Remote or RS485.
Fully Dimmable
siliconchip.com.au
Electricity out of thin (moving!) air
Although the global move towards
energy wind farming is certainly welcome (and likely to increase in scale),
those huge MegaWatt-sized developments may have left a learning void.
Although it’s easy enough to grab a
few batteries and then learn all about
electrical concepts, how can you get
“hands on” so readily when it comes
to the wind?
Wind energy exploitation relates to variables such as blade
size and
type,
wind
speed and consistency and even mechanical issues
such as noise, balancing and tower
height – all usually too involved for
educational consideration.
Although many well-meaning
tinkerers (myself included!) have
devised small home built wind generators (typically based around bike
dynamos or small electric motors)
these often are large and inefficient
with dangerous, high-speed blades.
Additionally a lack (or excess) of
wind at a time when experiments
are scheduled may naturally frustrate, as many an
America’s Cup race has
verified!
Hence it’s admirable that
Jaycar have just released a
~$50, desktop sized “WindLab Junior”
generator kitset (KJ6696), lending itself
to all manner of experiments, even
indoors when placed near a fan.
It’s fitted with a very efficient
3-phase brushless alternator whose
output is rectified by 6 inbuilt diodes
to deliver up to a Watt (10V DC at
100mA) via convenient terminals. A
switched 5.5V 0.33F gold cap can also
be charged for later work.
Useful output, indicated by a small
LED, starts at only a few km/hr wind
speed – easily provided by most cooling fans at about half a metre distance
– and a good indoor air flow will fully
light a 3.6V 30mA white LED.
Higher wind speeds, such as those
around a moving car, can be utilised
as well, although naturally with caution. It’s recognised wind generators
perform best at fresh breeze speeds of
10m/s (around 30km/hr ) anyway.
Safety issues concerning youthful fingers near the 315mm disiliconchip.com.au
ameter spinning blades
arise but thoughtfully the
supplied soft plastic ones
are pliable enough to be harmless at indoor wind speeds.
A further design feature relates
to the ability to cut, shape and
mount ones own blades – perhaps
even out of cardboard.
Assorted
experiments
however failed
to better the
output than
from the 3 supplied, although a
taller support tower would have
allowed a greater diameter
sweep.
The generator is likely to
appeal to a wide age group,
ranging from sheer fun
with curious youngsters
to perhaps senior students out to explore
wind speed versus output relationships. (The
power available is related to the
blade area radius squared and
the wind speed cubed –
hence a 20km/hr breeze
will have eight times the
energy of a mere 10km/
hr zephyr).
It’s of course feasible
to use the wind turbine as a battery
charger, perhaps for cell phones when
darkness prevents PV use. The blades
could even be removed and the shaft
then coupled to make a small water jet
driven turbine – pico hydro?
All you big kids just bursting to try
this should first get a clearance from
mum before you flood the kitchen.
And you’d better get an OK before you
cut blades from plastic sheeting with
her dress making scissors too!
Footnote: A hands-on High School
level lab sheet (with modest maths)
is being written for this kitset, to be
eventually hosted at www.manuka.
orcon.net.nz/windgene.htm
Stan Swan
Contact:
Jaycar Electronics
PO Box 6424, Silverwater NSW 1811.
Tel: 1800 022 888 Fax: (02) 9741 8500
Website: www.jaycar.com.au
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Tel:(07)
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JEDSC
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and controllers.
JED
makesSC
a PC
PROMSC WEBLINK SC WEBLINK
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and RS232/RS485
converters.
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OurSC
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TeleLink Communications
WebLINK: telelink.com.au
Jed Microprocessors Pty Ltd
WebLINK: jedmicro.com.au
JAYCAR
JAYCAR ELECTRONICS
ELECTRONICS
WebLINK:
WebLINK: www.jaycar.com.au
www.jaycar.com.au
S
2005 65
Getting the most from your
It’s pretty much commonsense, right? What can go wrong? Sometimes,
the experts can tell you things you really hadn’t considered . . . like
what do you do if you accidentally “wash” your card?
I
f you’re getting ready to pack
your suitcase, your sunscreen lotion and your digital camera for
a quick getaway, don’t forget to pack
extra flash memory cards.
And, since you’ll be capturing
plenty of magic moments, the experts
at SanDisk Corporation, the world’s
largest supplier of flash memory
cards, have some tips on how to get
better results from your photography
and protect your images from heat,
rain and even accidental erasure.
Despite our publisher’s reservations about the value of digital
cameras (July SILICON CHIP, P2), the
world, it seems, does not agree. Digital cameras now outsell film cameras
by a very significant margin.
And recent reports even suggest
camera phones are outselling both
– though one would have to wonder
whether travellers using camera
phones to capture their memories
will be all that happy when they see
the image quality most phones, at 1.3
megapixel or thereabouts (and many
much less), still produce.
However, both digital cameras
and camera phones are continually
improving. Samsung recently announced a 7MP model and many camera phones now accept flash memory
cards, just like their “ordinary digital
camera” cousins. So a modern camera
phone and a few flash memory cards
could be a proposition.
Here’s what SanDisk recommend:
Get higher capacity cards
With card prices falling and digital
camera resolutions rising, consider
upgrading your memory, so to speak,
with cards that are at least double
your previous capacities.
If you’ve been using 256MB cards,
move up to a 512MB or even a 1GB
model. If you want sharper and larger
photos, you’ll need to set your camera
66 Silicon Chip
the future (and you will!).
Get a faster digital camera?
Sandisk’s 1GB CompactFlash card
– now available up to 4GB and also
in Ultra II and Extreme III versions
which offer much better performance.
at higher resolutions and this, in turn,
will consume more memory.
Consider using a high-capacity,
high-performance card such as the
SanDisk Ultra II 1GB. But first make
sure the firmware of you camera can
handle the larger cards – some early
cameras are limited to, say, 256 or
512MB. Some cameras may offer a
firmware upgrade: check their website.
Get faster cards
All flash cards are not the same. If
you have a late-model digital camera
with a rating of, say, 5MP or higher
and/or if you like to shoot moving
objects, you have a better chance of
capturing the specific moment from a
faster card. For example, moving from
a standard card to a SanDisk Ultra II
card (available in SD, Memory Stick
PRO and CompactFlash formats)
provides up to three times faster
writing speeds in many of the newer
digital cameras that have fast internal
processors.
Actual speeds depend on the image
processing ability of your camera and
the make of your existing flash card,
however. Even if your camera is not
fast or high-resolution, having the
faster cards will be welcome when
you do upgrade to a new camera in
Perhaps your camera is a few years
old; maybe it was your first digital
camera. If so, think about purchasing
a newer model – and look for information on the buffer processing times of
the camera.
Some manufacturers now offer,
for under $1,000, digital single-lens
reflex cameras that can record higherresolution images faster than their
predecessors. Even many new, small
digital cameras of 5MP resolution
currently retail for under $300.
Most of these newer cameras noticeably reduce the hesitation you
may have experienced when you click
the shutter. With a new camera and a
faster card, you’ll have a better chance
of freezing the action.
Handling the card
Any card with exposed metal contacts should be handled by the edges,
just as you would handle a CD.
On most cards, the contacts are
gold-flashed to prevent corrosion
but they can get dirty, especially if
touched by oily hands.
One easy and relatively safe way to
clean them is to give them a once-over
with a standard, soft pencil eraser
(don’t use a too-hard one, nor one
intended for ink).
On cards with internal connec-
The card comes with a protective
case: use it !
siliconchip.com.au
digital camera card
tors, such as CompactFlash, avoid
at all costs getting dirt or sand in the
contacts. Once in, it is very difficult,
if not impossible, to remove.
Whenever the card is out of the
camera, use the protective pouch it
came with to protect it.
Airport X-Ray machines and
metal detectors
You can put full or empty flash
cards in your checked baggage or
in your carry-ons with little risk of
damage from airport scanners. The
International Imaging Industry Association conducted tests last year
with security devices used in US
airports and found that no damage to
the cards resulted with normal travel
frequency. As an added precaution,
SanDisk recommends that you take
the card out of your camera before
passing through security devices.
What if you get the card wet?
Like anything electronic, getting
a card wet should be avoided at all
costs. But what if you do? It happens
(and not infrequently), that people
accidentally leave a card in a pants
pocket and then wash the garment. Or
they might drop the card in a swimming pool or even a puddle.
Don’t despair. Let the card dry for
a couple of days – you can even use
a hairdryer with a non-heat blower
(don’t be tempted to speed it up by
using heat: even if it doesn’t damage
the chips inside the card, it may distort the package making it difficult, if
not impossible, to make the required
contacts).
There’s a good possibility, based
on experience reports from SanDisk
customers, that the card might still
function. On cards with exposed contacts, a bit of a clean and polish might
help (note the earlier comments about
a pencil eraser). And we wouldn’t
siliconchip.com.au
put the card straight back inside an
expensive camera – once completely
dry, we’d first test it in the card-reader
of a personal computer (and if possible, a cheap, external one).
Coping with heat
If you leave rolls of traditional film
on the back seat of a closed, parked
car, you stand a good chance of ruining them, especially during the heat
of summer.
Although it’s advisable to keep
flash cards at room temperature,
SanDisk’s standard flash cards are
designed to withstand relatively high
temperatures – up to 60° Celsius or
140° Fahrenheit – without loss of
stored images. SanDisk’s Extreme
III cards are even better – they’re
designed to operate in extreme temperature conditions at the limits of
human physical endurance.
Make sure you have enough
battery left
Although no battery power is
required to actually store pictures,
it is required when reading from or
writing to the card. So it’s important
to have sufficient battery power when
your camera is transferring captured
images to your card. If the battery
is too low, you could lose one or
more images during the transfer, so
it’s a good practice to keep a spare,
recharged battery on hand. Also,
never remove a card while a camera
is writing to it or while formatting the
card in a camera.
Recovering deleted images
Suppose that, in sorting through
your images, you accidentally delete
a picture that you really wanted to
keep. Or perhaps you’ve reformatted your card by accident and wiped
out all of your photos. They are
gone from sight but until you write a
new image to the card, they usually
they remain stored on it, (although
in normally inaccessible memory
locations).
Using a software program such as
SanDisk’s RescuePRO®, which you
can purchase for US$40 through
SanDisk’s website (www.sandisk.
com) and install in your computer,
you can often recover so-called
“lost” images by selecting “Full
Recovery.”
In most respects, the card in its
reader acts like another hard disk on
your PC so many other data recovery
programs are also likely to work. At
least it’s worth giving it a go – you
have nothing to lose if you think you
have already lost it!
Make backups “on the fly”
Be careful, especially in some areas! If you’re anxious to print your
photos while travelling, before you
drop off a card at a photo processor
or use a self-print kiosk, back up your
images on a laptop PC or burn them
to a CD or another storage medium.
That way, if your card is lost or damaged, you can still have another set
of pictures.
And here’s one last thing to keep
in mind: in many areas around the
world, you can buy cards at odd
times, in odd places. If you run out
of memory and need to find a card
or two early in the morning or late
at night, head for a supermarket or
chemist/drug store.
SanDisk produces a line of readily available and inexpensive cards,
called SanDisk Shoot & Store, which
come in capacities of up to 128MB
in formats of SD, CompactFlash and
SC
Memory Stick PRO.
September 2005 67
Words and graphics
by Ross Tester
Want to use an old
phone for VoIP calls?
Build this cheap adaptor!
VoIP (Voice over Internet Protocol)
Analog Phone Adaptor
Regular SILICON CHIP readers would be no strangers to VoIP and
the myriad of services now available (such as Skype). And you
would no doubt recall that to take advantage of free or very low
cost long-distance calls you’ve needed a special VoIP phone for
your PC – or at least a headset with mic and earphone.
I
n fact, we featured such a phone, from Microgram
Computers, in the “new products” section in August
2004 (followed by a full article on VoIP and Skype in
September ’04). Those phones are still available and just as
viable as they ever were. But they aren’t all that cheap. And
using a headset/microphone, while once again perfectly
viable, can be both a help and a hindrance. It might free
your hands but it just ain’t the same as holding a phone
to your ear.
You can also buy “internet phones” without any problem
these days. While initially more expensive than standard
(POTS) phones, they offer significant – and often dramatic
– call cost savings in the longer term.
But what if you wanted to get into VoIP with a minimum
68 Silicon Chip
of upfront cost? Wouldn’t it be nice if you could use just
about any old (or new!) phone on your PC instead of buying something special. After all, most hobbyists and even
significant numbers of the general populace must have a
phone they are no longer using, gathering dust somewhere!
Even a brand new phone can be found for less than ten
dollars!
Don’t look now . . . but you can! All it takes is a tiny bit
of cheap circuitry to fool the phone into believing that it
is plugged into a normal call – and it can then connect via
the sound card in your computer to the internet and the
rest of the world!
We’re not going to make any claim to the originality of
this circuit. We were alerted to a website containing just
siliconchip.com.au
such a project by a reader and it seemed to us that this
would make a dandy little item for SILICON CHIP. You can
see the original at www.grynx.com. All the information
presented there is given here – with the exception of a
rather long user forum which itself might answer some of
the questions you have about this project.
On that website it was called a “chat cord”. While that’s
not a bad name, we prefer the slightly more prosaic but
also more descriptive name we’ve given it: VoIP Analog
Phone Adaptor – simply because it tells you what this does.
By the way, the “grynx” website is one which we have a
peek at quite regularly – they have some really neat ideas
and products from time to time!
Identical – but different!
While the circuit is identical, we’ve made a couple of
physical changes. The first thing we noticed was that the
original project was constructed on Veroboard.
Once again, regular readers may have noted that it is
extremely unusual for SILICON CHIP to publish any project
based on this stuff. For good reason, we detest using Veroboard – our experience is that readers find it far too easy
to make a mistake, especially in the hole-cutting-out area.
You only have to be one track across or one hole down and
whoops – the smoke gets out!
We’d much rather design a small PC board and minimise that possibility. Yes, it does add a little to the project
cost – but in this case, the board has a minimal number of
holes so a commercial board should be pretty cheap (the
number of holes, more than the size, determines the cost
to a large extent).
And we know that many readers still like to make their
own PC boards from the patterns we publish (you should
hear the screams when one is left out!). So that is also an
option if you really must save money. In fact, we made
this PC board on the kitchen sink in about half an hour
using only a reversed laser print of the pattern (on plain
paper) – see “Making Your Own PC Boards At Home” in
the March 2001 issue.
Make your own board and all you are up for is the special transformer (around $12 from Altronics – more on
that later), a phone socket (about $1), a 9V battery holder
(80c) and a 150W resistor. Add a couple of 3.5mm plugs to
connect to your sound card via short lengths
of coax and, if you wish, a box to put it in.
Really, that is all there is to it. Have a look
at the circuit. Now do you believe us?
600 Ω/300 Ω+300 Ω
ISOLATION
TRANSFORMER
MIC
INPUT
RJ11
PHONE
SOCKET
SC
2005
9V
BATTERY
150Ω
SPEAKER
OUTPUT
ON PC
SOUND
CARD
VoIP ANALOG PHONE ADAPTOR
As circuits go, you cannot get much simpler: one
transformer, one resistor and one battery, plus connectors!
(b) it fools the phone into believing that it is connected
to a real exchange circuit. That’s the purpose of the 9V
battery in series with the phone and transformer.
Normally, an “on hook” telephone (ie, the handset is in
the cradle) has about 48V DC across its terminals (which
of course comes from the exchange). The phone ringing
voltage is AC – perhaps 90-100V (which explains why
you get a bit of a tingle if you’re across a phone line when
it rings!). Off-hook (ie, taking a call), the voltage drops
down significantly – usually to about 9V DC but can be
a bit lower.
So we simulate that 9V with a battery in series with
the phone and transformer. We could have used a lower
voltage – down to perhaps 6V and it would have worked
just as well. That’s getting perilously close to the 5V available from a PC’s USB socket, which could have made the
project self-contained – but unfortunately, 5V is just a
little low – it sometimes works and sometimes doesn’t,
depending on the phone. Besides, a 9V battery is a si mple,
practical solution.
As well as providing isolation between the phone and
PC, the transformer ensures that the impedance which the
phone “sees” is what the phone would expect if plugged
into a phone line. If it doesn’t see this, the phone may not
work properly or even work at all.
The transformer is a special type with a 600W primary
and two 300W secondaries. These are connected in series
with the centre acting as a “ground” for both the input
(mic) and output (speaker) circuits – connected via a 150W
resistor to maintain the correct impedance.
How it works
This circuit performs two simple functions:
(a) it couples the phone into the sound
card at the right impedance, so losses are
minimised – that’s the job of the transformer
and resistor; and
A view inside the box before we fitted the
shielded cables which connect to the PC
sound card. You can just see the ledge
on which the board catches and sits,
eliminating the need for screws to hold it in
place. And it doesn’t matter if the battery
is left in – when the phone is unplugged the
battery is open-circuit anyway.
siliconchip.com.au
September 2005 69
Parts List – VoIP Analog Phone Adaptor
1 PC board, 60 x 124mm, code 03109031
1 UB3 Jiffy box, 130 x 68 x 43mm (Altronics
H0153)
1 PC-mount 600W to 300W+300W isolation
transformer (Altronics M1010 or M1005)
1 PC-mount 9V battery holder (Altronics S5048)
1 9V battery
1 PC-mount 4P4C (RJ12/RJ11) phone
connector (Altronics P1422)
4 PC stakes
1 3.5mm stereo phone plug
1 3.5mm mono phone plug
2 lengths shielded cable, length to suit
1 telephone connection cable (RJ12-RJ12), length
to suit
1 150W 0.25W resistor
Code: brown-green-brown-brown (4 band) or
brown-green-black-black-brown (5-band)
70 Silicon Chip
9V BATTERY
HOLDER
600 Ω
TO
300 Ω + 300 Ω
TRANSFORMER
SECONDARIES
The transformer also prevents
the 9V DC from the battery getting into your sound card, where
it wouldn’t do any good at all.
The phone, incidentally, can
be just about any analog type –
the garden-variety Telstra phone;
RJ11 (4P2C)
a two-dollar-special you picked
PHONE
SOCKET
up from a flea market; a ten-dollar Chinese import special you
found in the bargain store; even
most cordless phones will work
quite happily with this circuit.
Hey, that would be pretty neat
– talking via a cordless phone
to the other side of the world
for nothing – or next to nothing!
(The old pushbutton Telecom phone photographed with
our adaptor actually came from a council clean-up a couple
of months ago. Rain threatened and it looked so lonely sitting there, I just had to stop the car and pick it up, take it
home and see if it still worked. It did/does!)
Input (from the phone) is via a standard RJ11 (or more
correctly, 2P4C) socket. To connect the phone to this, you’re
PRIMARY
Here’s the completed
PC board with matching
component overlay
underneath. No mounting
holes are needed with the
Jiffy Box we used. Our
construction time was
about one hour – and that
included making and
drilling the PC board.
TO
PC CARD
MIC
SOCKET
(PINK)
150Ω
TO
PC CARD
SPEAKER
SOCKET
(BLUE)
going to need a standard RJ12 to RJ12 (ie, “US-style”) phone
cable, the length to suit how far away you want the phone
and box to be.
Output is via a pair of 3.5mm plugs, one of which goes to
the “mic” input of your sound card (or integrated motherboard sound) and the other to the “speaker” (or headphone)
output of the card.
We’ve labelled these in pink and green on the circuit
because they are the colour codes of the 3.5mm sockets
on most modern computers/sound cards.
It doesn’t really matter which one goes to which one because the circuit is symmetrical. However, we’ve labelled
them specifically because the speaker/headphone socket is
invariably a stereo type, while the microphone is usually
mono (unless it is designed to handle an electret mic). Inserting a mono plug into the stereo speaker output will more
than likely short out one channel of your sound card – and
you really don’t want to do that. Hence the labelling.
Construction
With the very limited number of components – and none
of them polarised – this is the simplest part. Start with the
four PC stakes and the 150W resistor, followed by the 9V
battery holder. As well as the two soldered pins, it’s wise
to add at least one nut and bolt to hold the the battery
holder firmly on the PC board. 9V batteries do have a bit
of weight to them and could quite easily break the solder
connection to the PC board.
Next is the transformer: the PC board has been designed
siliconchip.com.au
The front panel label can be
photocopied and glued to the jiffy
box lid. It doesn’t look too bad in
B&W if you don’t have access to a
colour photocopier.
Of course, it – and the PC board
pattern, shown below, can also be
downloaded and printed in colour
from the SILICON CHIP website:
www.siliconchip.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
mic
PC
SOUND
CARD
TELEPHONE
VoIP Analog Phone Adaptor
to take either a standard size (as
shown in the photographs) or
a miniature version. Both these
transformers are available from
Altronics.
It’s important to get the transformer the right way around. The
mini one is easy – it only has six
pins – two on one side and four on
the other – so you know which is
the primary (two pins) and the two
secondaries.
The larger transformer is not so
simple because it has eight pins –
two on the primary side are unused.
Have a close look at the pins (maybe
with a magnifying glass) and on the
secondary side, you’ll see very fine
wires soldered to each pin.
On the primary side, only two
of the pins have wires soldered
to them.
Make sure the transformer goes into the PC board with
the primary closest to the battery holder and the secondary
closest to the output stakes.
The final component is the RJ11 (or 4P4C) socket. This
must be very carefully placed because it has very fine pins
which are easy to bend out of position. The PC board has
been designed to allow 4P6C sockets to be used if necessary, so make sure your socket is placed according to the
overlay diagram to connect the right pins!
The PC board will also handle two of the commonest
sizes of socket – the holes between the pins and the edge
of the board are designed to hold the moulded plastic
locating pins on the socket. Drill the appropriate ones out
to 2.5mm to allow these pins to go through the board and
hold the socket in place.
Once again, relying on the soldered connections (especially the tiny ones here) is not wise because insertion and
removal of the RJ12 plug could easily break the joins. We’d
suggest a drop of super glue on each of the moulded pins
to secure them to the PC board – once you are absolutely
sure the socket is in the right spot!
Finally, solder appropriate lengths of coax to the four PC
stakes – the inner conductors go to the outside stakes and
the braid to the inner stakes. Fit these lengths of coax with
mono or stereo 3.5mm phono plugs, as discussed above
(mono for mic, stereo for speaker) – and board construction is complete.
Give it a thorough check-over to make sure there are
no missed or poor solder joints and, most importantly, no
siliconchip.com.au
spkr
solder bridges between the very tightly spaced terminals
under the phone socket.
Finishing off
We mounted our PC board in a UB-3 Jiffy box. This box
has moulded channels in the side, with a recess about 10mm
up from the bottom of the box – just made to capture the
PC board and hold it without screws.
If you make your own PC board, you’ll have to cut
the corners out as per the photo and drawings to accommodate the four pillars inside the box. The easiest way
to do this is to use, say, a 12mm drill and then finish off
with a fine file.
You’ll also need to mark and drill holes in the box for
the two shielded cables (OK, we shouldn’t have soldered
them on beforehand!). We cheated a bit and used a length
of Fig.8 cable and then split it at both ends – it meant only
two holes in the box, not three.
Of course, you also need to drill and file a rectangular
hole for the RJ11 socket at the other end.
And that’s it: your VoIP Analog Phone Adaptor is now
finished. Plug in the phone, connect the box to your sound
card, load up your VoIP software . . . and start talking to
the world.
Want to know where to get VoIP services?
For a comprehensive, up-to-date listing
which also has extensive provider information,
including pricing, visit www.OzVoip.com
September 2005 71
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au/
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au/
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au/
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au/
MUDL ARK
A 205
a u d i o
s y s t e m s
A 20-watt/channel class A2 triode amplifier
In last month’s issue, we described the innovative design
of the Mudlark A205 stereo valve amplifier which is
based on parallel single-ended triodes and a “parafeed”
output transformer arrangement. This month, we give the
construction details and the parts list.
Pt.2: By DAVID WHITBY
B
EFORE WE GO ON to discuss the
assembly of the Mudlark amplifier, we should mention some of the
chassis hardware and componentry
in the design.
While the output transformer configuration is unusual and was described
last month, the 100V line output
transformers employed are not cheap
or inexpensive by any means. They
employ quality M6 grain-orientated
silicon steel laminations and interleaved windings, as used in the best
conventional output transformers. As
WARNING!
High and possibly lethal voltages
are present in the external power
supply, underneath the chassis
on the PC board and on the choke
board assembly. DO NOT touch
any parts with power applied
and exercise extreme caution
at all times while testing the
amplifier.
76 Silicon Chip
well, the transformers are mounted
with their cores at right-angles to
each other and have been fitted with
copper straps. Both these measures
have the effect of cancelling or greatly
reducing residual leakage flux from the
transformers which could otherwise
prejudice the amplifier’s operation.
The extruded aluminium chassis
gives several advantages apart from
having an attractive appearance, with a
fine-grooved finish on the top section.
It is very rigid and strong, providing a
stable platform for the large PC board
which mounts underneath.
One major change which has been
made to the under-chassis arrangement of the PC board involves the
octal socket and matching plug which
connects all the wiring to the chokes
and transformers. In last month’s issue,
this was shown with a cable which
threaded under the board and into
the transformer compartment on top
of the chassis.
Now the wiring has been greatly
simplified because the ceramic octal
socket is mounted on the topside of
the PC board, the same as the octal
sockets for the output valves. Then,
inside the transformer compartment,
a short cable connects from the octal
socket to the vertical PC board which
accommodates the nine chokes.
The main PC board is double-sided
with plated-through holes and 4-ounce
plated copper tracks. It measures 180
x 233mm.
As noted last month, the kit is
available in two versions. Version
1 is a complete set of components
and contains everything you need to
build the amplifier down to the last
detail. There is no drilling or cutting
required and all you will need are
general electronic assembly tools such
as soldering/desoldering tools, pliers,
side-cutters, screw & nut drivers, Allen keys, etc.
By contrast, version 2 comes with a
fully built and tested main PC board
which makes it much easier to get the
amplifier up and running.
Main board assembly
Construction starts with the main PC
board assembly (Fig.5). First, remove
the small RCA connector-mounting
siliconchip.com.au
3W resistors. The 1W and 2W resistors
are fitted first and all lie flush with the
board. The 1W 3W resistor is mounted
vertically to aid cooling and the four
27kW 3W resistors are mounted horizontally but raised 20mm up off the
board, again to aid cooling.
If you discover a mistake after
soldering, carefully remove
any wrongly placed components using a “solder sucker”
or “solder wick”. Component
removal is more difficult on
a double-sided PC board than
on a single-sided board due to
the plated-through holes; all the
solder must be completely removed
from the holes before the component
leads will easily pull out. The main
thing is to take your time and not
rush the job!
Polarised components
board from the corner of the main PC
board and then familiarise yourself
with the front edge (switches and
pot), the back edge (terminal block
connector pads), the component side
(which has the most printing) and the
underside (with the least printing).
Next, fit the seven 16mm hex
spacers to the outer hex marked holes
on the component side along the righthand and lefthand edges of the board.
These are secured with the supplied
M3 x 8mm screws and star washers,
fitted from the underside of the board.
That done, fit two of the 12mm hex
spacers supplied to the two hex marked holes in the underside of the board
on either side of the central octal (8pin) socket. The remaining 12mm hex
mounting spacers are fitted later, to the
underside of the chassis.
Next, fit the five 8-pin and two 9-pin
sockets on the underside of the board,
taking care to observe their orientation
as shown on Fig.5. Note that the central
8-pin socket is oriented differently
from the four other octal sockets. It is
most important that you orient each
octal socket correctly. The central
siliconchip.com.au
keyway must line up with the keyway
shown on the PC overlay.
The smaller 9-pin sockets are polarised and will only fit into the PC board
one way around.
All the sockets must be pushed as
far as they will go into the PC board
and held level/parallel with the board
surface while they are soldered.
The resistors are divided up into
three separate packs of 1W, 2W and
All the electrolytic capacitors in the
kit are separately packed according
to value and are clearly marked with
voltage polarity.
Take great care to orientate them
strictly according to the overlay diagram of Fig.5. Since the voltages are
high, reversal of polarity will quickly
destroy them at switch-on, so take
every precaution to get the polarity
right according to the component
overlay.
It is also most important to install
the diodes and zener diodes correctly.
Don’t get them mixed up. All are critical to polarity but the ones which can
cause the most fireworks if reversed
are the two main power doubler diodes
(D1 & D2) near the relay – so take care
to double-check all the diodes and
zener diodes before soldering.
A socket is supplied in the kit for
Measured Performance
Output power ....................................................20 watts per channel into 8W
Frequency response .......................................... 12Hz to 57kHz within ±3dB;
-1dB at 50kHz (at 1W/8W – see Fig.10)
Input sensitivity ......................................................... 360mV for 10W into 8W
Harmonic distortion ......................typically less than 1.5% at listening levels
(see Figs 11, 12 & 13).
Separation between channels .........................................................see Fig.9
Signal-to-noise ratio ................... -67dB unweighted (22Hz to 22kHz); -91dB
A-weighted, both with respect to 20W into 8W
Damping factor...................... >6 with feedback applied; >2 with feedback off
September 2005 77
Above: inside the finished amplifier. The octal sockets mount on the rear
of the PC board and protrude through matching holes in the chassis.
the 555 timer IC and the overlay clearly
indicates the mounting direction. Do
not fit the 555 timer into the socket at
this stage. Mount the BC337 as shown
on the overlay diagram.
The two BF469 transistors must be
mounted so that the metallic side of
each transistor body faces towards the
back of the PC board (ie, away from the
switches and potentiometer).
Having mounted all the polarised
components, you can then install all
the non-polarised capacitors.
Board hardware
Next, fit the two pushbutton switches to the underside of the PC board,
making sure they are pushed firmly
into the board and are as parallel as
possible, before they are soldered.
That done, fit the potentiometer, the
relay and the three 3-way terminal
blocks which together make up the
9-way connector at the relay end of
the board.
Next, fit and solder the PC pins for
78 Silicon Chip
the feedback wires (either side of the
220kW 1W resistors at the front righthand corner of the board) and to the
pads marked “LEDS” near to centrefront of the board.
Finally, fit and solder the RCA input
connector block to the component
side of the small PC board which you
previously broke off the main board.
You can then connect the 4-way flat
shielded cable as shown in Fig.5. The
other end of this cable will need to be
terminated on the underside of the
main PC board, at the PC pins near
switch S1.
Preparing the chassis
Six 12mm-long tapped spacers need
to be to the fitted to the underside
of the chassis using M3 x 8mm-long
countersunk screws through the countersunk holes on the top of the chassis. No star washers are fitted and the
spacers need to be held by a nut driver
and tightened firmly from above.
The front and back panels are
Fig.5 (facing page): this diagram
shows the component layout on
the main PC board as well as the
wiring to the RCA input connector
board at the top lefthand corner.
Note that the two 10mF 400V
capacitors should have a bead
of silicone sealant under them to
anchor them securely to the board.
packed with brackets and screws for
mounting to the chassis .The panel positions are obvious due to their shape
and the printing. You need to attach
the three small right-angle brackets for
each panel using slotted countersunk
screws and nuts, then use countersunk
Allen screws and nuts to attach the
panels to the chassis.
At the same time as you mount the
central right-angle brackets under the
chassis ends, you can also attach the
top cover mounting brackets, on the
top of the chassis. Before tightening
the screws, position each panel as
symmetrically as possible over the end
of the chassis.
Fit the power switch to the left-hand
siliconchip.com.au
10k 2W
CON1
V5.21
D2
V52
25V
(THIS BOARD MOUNTS UPSIDE
DOWN ON BACK PANEL)
1000F/63V
1000F/63V
SH
D1
D4
NC
C
220k 2W
10nF
250V
100F
25V
220k 2W
330k 2W
100F/400V
FIT
UNDERNEATH
10nF
100V
100 1W
100F/400V
100 1W
220uF/50V
100nF
100V
100 2W
FIT
UNDERNEATH
SKT1
V3
IC1
LM555
180 2W
Q3
BC337
330k 2W
27k 2W
56 2W
220F/50V
ZD1
12V 1W
NO
220k 1W
1000F/63V
1000F/63V
RELAY1
270F/200V
D7
D6
D5
220 2W
D3
56 2W
270F/200V
270F/200V
1000F/63V
470k 1W
270F/200V
22k 1W
SH
10k 2W
12.5V
47F
25V RBLL
V6
1000F/63V
FLAT 4-WAY
SHIELDED
CABLE
UNDER
PC BOARD
FIT UNDERNEATH
47 1W
47 1W
10F/400V
10F/400V
47 1W
1 3W
47 1W
10k 2W
1N4007
VOLUME
CONTROL
siliconchip.com.au
220 1W
22nF/400V
TO R&L
SPEAKER
TERMINALS
470k 1W
ZD2
NFB (L)
R47
PRE/DRIVER
VALVE
HEATER
VOLTAGE
WIRE
(UNDER
BOARD)
220k 1W
+
–
BLUE LEDS UNDER BOARD
(CONNECTED IN SERIES, PUSHED
INTO HOLES PROVIDED)
220k 1W
1000F/63V
NFB (R)
22k 2W
V4
Q2
BF469
220k 1W
10k 1W
10k 1W
10k 1W
22k 1W
50k+50k
100k 1W
MUDLARK A205
502A Rev1
KRALDLUM
10k 1W
MULDLARK A205
S2 – FIT
UNDERNEATH
100k 1W
470k 1W
470nF/630V
22nF/400V
YEL WH SH RED BLK SH
Q1
BF469
22k 1W
220 1W
FIT
UNDERNEATH
220k 1W
27k 3W
100k 1W
27k 3W
10F/450V
KLINK
NIL
27V/1W
27k 3W
470 2W
27k 3W
1000F/63V
10F/450V
22k 1W
47k 1W
10k 2W
C17
S1 – FIT
UNDERNEATH
V5
470nF/630V
10k 2W
100k 1W
100k 2W
1000F/63V
22k 2W
V1
1000F/63V
10k 2W
470nF/630V
220F
50V
1000F/63V
1000F/63V
10F/450V
FIT
UNDERNEATH
1N4007
1N4007
1000F/63V
47k 1W
10F/450V
220k 1W
680 1W
470nF 630V
10F/450V
4.7k 2W
220 1W
V2
D10
1N4007
D8
FIT
UNDERNEATH
D11
D9
4.7k 2W
FIT
UNDERNEATH
10k 2W
100 2W
100 1W
220F/50V
WARNING: LETHAL VOLTAGES ARE PRESENT ON THIS BOARD WHILE IT IS OPERATING!
SHIELDED WIRE
(UNDER PC BOARD)
September 2005 79
TO PINS ON OCTAL PLUG
3
4
8
7
6
1
2
5
WARNING: LETHAL VOLTAGES ARE PRESENT ON THIS BOARD WHILE IT IS OPERATING!
FROM
PRIMARY
OF LEFT CH.
OUTPUT
TRANSFORMER
3
4
7
6
1
2
5
OIDUA SSELG
CON1
OUTPUT
TRANS
FROM
PRIMARY
OF RIGHT
OUTPUT CH.
TRANSFORMER
LEFT CHANNEL
PLATE CHOKE 1
RIGHT CHANNEL
PLATE CHOKE 1
LEFT CHANNEL
HT FILTER CHOKE
LEFT CHANNEL
PLATE CHOKE 2
RIGHT CHANNEL
PLATE CHOKE 2
RIGHT CHANNEL
HT FILTER CHOKE
LEFT CHANNEL
PLATE CHOKE 3
RIGHT CHANNEL
PLATE CHOKE 3
8
502HC
Fig.6: here’s how the eight chokes are installed on the PC board which sits on top of the chassis. The output leads go to
an octal plug – see Fig.7.
side of the front panel and the speaker
terminals to the appropriate holes in
the back panel. The terminals with the
red rings mount close to the top of the
chassis. Line up the lead holes so that
they are horizontal before you tighten
the nuts (this makes it easier to insert
and attach the speaker leads when
you finally listen to the amplifier).
Two rubber grommets are also fitted to
the two holes at the rear of the chas-
sis to take the wires from the output
transformers to the speaker terminals.
Choke assembly
We now move to the top of the
chassis and proceed with the choke
assembly which fits under the central
cover. Fig.6 shows the wiring diagram
for the choke board but you have to
follow the strict assembly procedure
set out below.
This view shows the rear of the choke PC
board before the protective plastic cover is
fitted. This cover provides shock protection.
80 Silicon Chip
Begin by fitting six stacked pairs of
30mm male/female spacers to the top of
the chassis, at the rear (ie, away from the
valve socket holes). Fasten these firmly
with 3mm nuts and star washers from
the underside of the chassis.
Next, affix the longer of the two
27mm self-adhesive foam strips to
the chassis, centrally between the two
rows of spacers.
The next step is to locate six of the
eight EC9 chokes between the spacers
as shown in the photo. They are stacked
as three pairs of chokes. Fit the choke
PC board over the terminal pins to
make sure everything lines up, then
secure the larger of the two supplied
aluminium plates with four 30mm
male/female spacers and two M3 x
8mm screws to the tops of the spacers.
This clamps the six chokes into position as shown in the photos.
Make sure that this aluminium plate
is the right way around – the long edge
of the plate with the holes further in
goes towards the terminal pin side of
the chokes.
You should now affix the smaller
27mm self-adhesive foam strip to the
top of larger aluminium plate, located
siliconchip.com.au
OUTPUT TRANSFORMERS
ALUMINIUM PLATE
30MM
SPACERS
ALUMINIUM PLATE
EC9 CHOKES
This photo shows the top view of the
chassis with the metal transformer cover
removed. This reveals the stacked array of EC9
chokes and the two output transformers which
have copper straps around their windings to
reduce leakage flux.
3
centrally between the spacers just fitted. Once it’s in place, fit the remaining
two EC9 chokes between the spacers
on the larger aluminium plate. That
done, check that the choke pins line
up with the corresponding choke PC
board holes, then attach the smaller
aluminium plate with the M3 x 8mm
screws and tighten firmly to clamp the
chokes in place.
You can now solder all the choke
pins to the board and fit the 3-way
terminal block, as shown in the photo,
followed by the short preassembled
8-way cable and octal plug assembly.
The eight leads are soldered to the
choke PC board, as shown in the diagram of Fig.6.
As a final step to the choke assembly,
fit the small aluminium plate and the
protective plastic over the exposed
choke PC board, to avoid shock hazard.
Four screws secure this aluminium
plate and the cover.
2
4
Fig.7 (right): the pin numbering scheme for the octal
plug (viewed from the top). This plug and its 8-way
cable are supplied pre-assembled and is wired to the
choke board. The plug then connects to the central
octal socket on the chassis, as shown below.
1
5
8
6
7
TOP (REAR) VIEW
OF OCTAL PLUG
Output transformers
Each output transformer is fitted
siliconchip.com.au
September 2005 81
RED BLK SH
YEL WH SH
(RIGHT SPEAKER
TERMINALS)
(LEFT SPEAKER
TERMINALS)
E
E
+
+
CABLE FROM
POWER UNIT
SHIELDED CABLE
FROM FEEDBACK
RESISTORS
(REAR PANEL)
TO
POWER
SWITCH
FROM OUTPUT
TRANSFORMERS
(4-WAY SHIELDED
CABLE FROM
FRONT OF PC
BOARD)
9
(MAIN BOARD)
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
25V
12.5V
Fig.8: follow this wiring diagram to connect the main board to the rear of the chassis and to connect the
power cable and power switch wiring. The wiring from the output transformers is also shown.
to the chassis, using four M3 x 8mm
screws from the top and secured with
four 3mm nuts and star washers from
underneath. Note the positions of the
leads from the transformers and check
that the orientations are as shown on
the photos.
The leads from the transformers
are supplied at the correct length and
all you need to do is to strip the ends
Compare this view inside the
finished unit with the wiring
diagram above.
82 Silicon Chip
for connection and soldering. Strip
about 12mm of insulation from the
transformer wire leads and terminate
them as follows:
(1). The Blue and Brown leads are the
primary (high-impedance) windings
and the Black and White leads are the
secondary (low impedance) windings.
Twist and solder the two blue primary
leads together and then trim the end to
about 6mm long and terminate it in the
lower terminal of the 3-way terminal
block on the choke board.
(2). Twist, fold back and tin the ends
of each brown wire to produce a 6mm
thicker end and then terminate the
left-channel brown lead (from the
transformer nearest the front of the
chassis) to the upper terminal of the
3-way terminal block. Follow this with
the right-channel brown lead from the
other transformer to the central terminal of the terminal block.
(3). Run the black and white secondary
leads along either side of the choke
assembly, as shown in the photo.
The secondary leads from the left
transformer are run along the choke
assembly behind the choke board and
siliconchip.com.au
The twisted brown & blue wires to the power switch are run through the inside channel of the chassis, as shown here.
Note that the two yellow 10mF 400V polypropylene capacitors sit on a bed of silicone sealant to hold them in place.
the leads from the right transformer
are run along the other side and held
in place with tape.
Feed the ends of the secondary
wires down through their associated
rubber grommets at the rear of the
choke assembly for later soldering to
the speaker terminals.
Perspex panels & blue LEDs.
Now for the Perspex panels and the
blue LEDs. First, secure the top central
cover using its two Allen screws, then
place the chassis upside down on a
soft surface (to protect the paint) for
this operation.
The Perspex panels come with a
protective coating and are predrilled
with blind holes to match the holes
on the top front of the chassis. The
Perspex panels are located so that the
ends with two holes are located near
the chassis centre.
Fit the panels to the chassis using
the special screws for plastic fastening
and tighten gently until the panels are
firm. Take care not to over-tighten the
screws and do not use ordinary selftapping screws, as they are likely to
crack the Perspex.
Two blue LEDs and a twisted pair of
wires, with small connectors to mate
with the PC pins on the main board,
are provided. The LEDs are later connected in series after fitting them into
the panels, so note that the longest lead
is the positive (anode) terminal.
Orientate the LEDs so that the positive lead of one LED faces the negative
lead of the other at the chassis centre
siliconchip.com.au
and then push them firmly through the
chassis holes and into the blind holes
in the Perspex panels. Bend the two
central LED leads towards each other
until they are horizontal and no more
than about 8mm from the chassis.
Next, trim them so they just overlap and solder them together. Cut the
remaining LED positive lead to 8mm
and solder the red wire of the twisted
pair to this lead and slide the sleeving
from the red wire fully down over the
soldered joint. Repeat this procedure
for the remaining LED lead and the
white wire of the twisted pair.
Finally, push the sleeve-covered
LED leads and the twisted pair down
flush with the chassis, with the leads
directed to the right (when facing the
front of the upside-down chassis).
Fitting the assembled board
Before fitting the main board to the
chassis, we suggest that you spend
more time double-checking the component placement and soldering. Any
errors are much easier to fix now than
after the board is fitted to the chassis
and connected to the wiring.
To fit the main board to the chassis,
first face the back of the upside-down
chassis towards you. That done, begin
to load the board in component side
up and as close to the inside of the
chassis as possible, but slightly to the
right of centre at first.
When the volume control shaft is
near the inside of the front panel, move
the PC board to the left while putting
some downward pressure on the back
area of the board near the 9-way connector block. Now push forward until
the volume control and switch shafts
go through their front panel holes and
the ceramic valve sockets locate into
their respective holes in the chassis
Next, secure the board to the six
12mm spacers on the chassis using
six M3 x 8mm screws. From the top
of the chassis near the central ceramic
octal socket, fit two M3 x 8mm screws
into the two 12mm spacers previously
mounted on the underside of the PC
board.
Now fasten the 16mm mounting
spacers which are on the component
Where To Buy A Kit
The price for the full kit (including finished metalwork, panels and all components) is $870.00 (including GST) or with a fully assembled and tested PC board
$970.00 (including GST).
All metalwork and panels in the kit are fully finished and no drilling, cutting or
punching is required. Note: this design is copyright to Gless Audio.
Mudlark A205 kits, fully built amplifiers and other components including valves
are available from: Gless Audio, 26 Park St, Seaford, Vic 3198. Phone (03) 9776
8703; Mobile 0403 055 374; email glesstron<at>msn.com
September 2005 83
The power supply box houses the
two large toroid transformers,
which are connected back to
back– see Fig.9. Be sure to sleeve
all exposed connections on the
fuseholder and the BP connector
that terminates the mains Neutral
lead using heatshrink insulation.
side edges of the PC board to the inside flanges of the chassis with 12mm
clearance spacers and M3 x 20mm
countersunk head screws. You can
then fit the knob to the potentiometer.
Internal wiring to the board
The RCA input connectors should
already be wired to the main board via
the supplied cable. Fit them to their
holes in the back panel, using an M3 x
15mm countersunk head screw. Most
of the underchassis wiring is shown
in the diagram of Fig.8.
The 6-way power cable is supplied
with the octal plug fitted and the ends
of the cable stripped and tinned ready
to fit to the 9-way terminal block on
the main board.
Fit the end of the cable through the
hole in the back panel using the supplied rubber boot and terminate the
tinned ends into the terminal block
as follows (terminal block numbered
from outside edge of PC board): 2
brown; 4 blue; 5 orange; 6 white; 7
red and 8 black.
Speaker terminal wiring
The next step is to connect the two
supplied 100mm black leads to termi84 Silicon Chip
nals 8 & 9. Twist their bared ends with
the existing wires at these terminals
before securing them. That done,
twist the other ends of these wires to
the black leads from the output transformer secondaries (as shown in Fig.8),
then place the supplied blue sleeving
over the joined ends and solder them
to the correct black-marked speaker
terminals.
Now carefully identify the right and
left secondary (speaker) wires and
separate out the white wires. Twist their
bared ends to the supplied feedback
cable leads – red wire to the right and
the yellow wire to the left – and place
the supplied red sleeving over each.
Solder each to the appropriate right or
left red-marked speaker terminal.
Next, feed the connector end of the
feedback cable back along the inside
outer edge of the chassis (see photo)
and connect the yellow wire to the pin
nearest to the edge of the PC board (ie,
adjacent to the 220kW 1W resistors)
and the red wire to the other pin.
Power wiring
The first step here is to terminate the
previously fitted blue wire from the
link pad near valve socket V4 under
This close-up view shows the wiring
to the octal socket that’s inside the
power supply – see Fig.9.
the PC board to terminal block pin 3
(ie, with the blue power lead) for the
14GW8/PCL86 valves supplied with
the kit. Alternatively, if you want to
use 6GW8/ECL86 valves, terminate
this lead to terminal block pin 5 (with
the orange power lead).
The wiring for the power switch is
supplied as a blue and brown twisted
pair fitted with spade connectors
compatible with the power switch.
Terminate the brown wire to terminal block pin 1 and the blue wire to
terminal block pin 3. That done, feed
the spade connector ends back through
the inside channel of the chassis and
siliconchip.com.au
MOUNTING
PLATE
OCTAL
SOCKET FOR
AMPLIFIER
POWER CORD
T2
4
4
5
3
6
2
7
1
3
6
7
8
1
REAR VIEW
(NC TO
PINS 2 & 5)
8
INSULATED
WIRE JOINERS
('BP' CONNECTORS)
HOW TO ATTACH
THE EARTH LUG
STAR
WASHERS
LUG
EARTH
LUG
T1
METAL
BASEPLATE
FIT
HEATSHRINK
INSULATION
OVER REAR OF
FUSEHOLDER
M4 x 10mm SCREW,
NUTS AND STAR
WASHERS
N
UE
BL
GRN/YEL
BR
FUSE 1
CORDGRIP GROMMET
Fig.9: here’s how to wire up the external power supply. With
the exception of the primary leads for transformer T1, all the
transformer leads are connected to the octal plug.
siliconchip.com.au
MAINS POWER CORD
WARNING: THIS POWER SUPPLY CIRCUIT OPERATES AT LETHAL VOLTAGES
September 2005 85
AUDIO PRECISION SCFREQRE AMPL(dBr) & AMPL(dBr) vs FREQ(Hz)
10.000
27 JUL 05 12:26:56
AUDIO PRECISION SCTHD-HZ THD+N(%) vs FREQ(Hz)
10
27 JUL 05 13:01:33
5.0000
0.0
-5.000
-10.00
1
-15.00
-20.00
-25.00
-30.00
0.1
10
100
1k
10k
100k
Fig.10: this is the frequency response of the amplifier at
a power level of 1W into an 8-ohm load. It has a peak of
+5dB at 11Hz.
connect them to the spade lugs on the
power switch – see photo.
External power supply
The parts line-up for the external power supply comprises a
drilled polycarbonate box, two 160VA
toroidal transformers, a laser-cut transformer mounting plate, mains cord,
fuse-holder and 2.5A fuse, ceramic
Here’s another view of the chassis
with the metal transformer cover
removed. Don’t operate the amplifier
without this cover – it’s necessary to
protect against dangerous voltages.
86 Silicon Chip
20
100
1k
10k
20k
Fig.11: this graph shows the total harmonic distortion
versus frequency at a power level of 1W into an 8-ohm
load.
octal socket and all necessary screws
and hardware.
Fig.9 shows the assembly details.
Take special care with the mains wiring and the pin connections to the octal
socket. Make sure that the mains cord
is tightly secured with the cordgrip
grommet – you must not be able to pull
it out. Check also that the earth lug is
securely fastened to the baseplate (see
Fig.9) and insulate all exposed mains
connections – ie, on the fuseholder &
BP connector.
Testing the amplifier
Caution! – the Mudlark A205 operates at high voltages and the utmost
care must be exercised in checking the
internal circuitry when it is powered
up (see the warning panel p.76).
It’s possible to get the A205 going
without any test gear as long as no
faults exist but it is preferable to have
at least a reasonable quality multimeter with maximum voltage range
of 500V or more, to determine if all
is OK before you fully power up the
amplifier.
The first job is to test the external
power supply, before
it is connected to
the amplifier. Make
measurements at the
octal socket with a
multimeter on the
AC voltage ranges.
To do this, you will
need to link pins 7 &
8 of the socket with
a short length of wire
– this takes the place
of the power switch on
the amplifier chassis.
Next, insert a 2.5A
fuse into the fuseholder
and apply power. Check that
the following nominal voltages are
present: between pin 1 & pins 7 or
8, 25VAC; between pin 1 & pin 6,
12.5VAC; between pins 3 & 4, 160VAC
(take care!). If all is OK, unplug the
mains cable before proceeding.
siliconchip.com.au
AUDIO PRECISION SCTHD-W THD+N(%) vs measured LEVEL(W)
10
27 JUL 05 12:15:16
27 JUL 05 12:19:27
1
1
0.1
50m
AUDIO PRECISION SCTHD-W THD+N(%) vs measured LEVEL(W)
10
0.1
1
10
50
Fig.12: this graph shows the total harmonic distortion
versus power at 1kHz. It is less than 1.5% for listening
levels (less than 2W) but rises rapidly above 14W as the
circuit goes into fairly soft clipping.
Before testing the main amplifier, make sure that the
555 timer IC is not in its socket. We DO NOT want the
main HT voltage present while we are checking the other
voltages.
Next, install all the valves, making sure that the spigots
on the output valves line up with the central keyways in
the octal sockets. That done, rotate the volume control to
minimum and stand the amplifier upside-down on a soft
surface, ready for measurement.
With the front panel switch off, plug the cable from
the amplifier into the power supply and then plug in the
mains cable and switch on the mains power. Switch on
the front panel power switch and the blue LEDs should
light up the Perspex panels. After a minute of so, check
that the valve filaments are lighting up. You may have to
peer closely to see the output tube filaments.
Now connect the positive lead of your multimeter to one
of the screw heads near the centre back of the PC board
and measure the negative DC bias voltage on ZD2 which
is up near the front of the board. This should be about
26V DC. If this is OK, it is now safe to apply HT voltages
to the output valves. Without negative bias, the valves
could be damaged when the HT is applied.
Switch off the power and wait for a few minutes before inserting the 555 timer in its socket and then switch
on again. If all looks OK after a few minutes reverse the
multimeter polarity, ready to measure positive voltages.
These should be reasonably close to the values shown on
the circuit diagram of last month’s issue.
The voltage across the 56W cathode resistor of the
power valves is a good indicator of correct operation.
This should be around +6V a few minutes after switch-on,
rising to about +7V after about 20 minutes of operation at
average mains voltages.
If all seems well, you can fit the baseplate to the amplifier and it is ready to test with some audio input signals.
Connect your speakers and a CD player and enjoy!
Finally, note that the power supply box runs quite warm
during normal operation (the case is a high-temperature
type, so this isn’t a problem). And watch out for the valves
SC
– they get very hot, so don’t touch them.
siliconchip.com.au
0.1
50m
0.1
1
10
50
Fig.13: this graph shows the same test as for Fig.7 but
this time the feedback from the output transformer
secondary is disconnected, giving rise to about the twice
the distortion.
AUDIO PRECISION SCCRSTK XTALK(dBr) & XTALK(dBr) vs FREQ(Hz)
0.0
27 JUL 05 12:31:07
-20.00
-40.00
-60.00
-80.00
-100.0
-120.0
20
100
1k
10k
20k
Fig.14: this graph shows the separation between channels
at a power level of 1W into 8W.
Fig.15: the distortion from the A205 is predominantly
second harmonic, as demonstrated by these scope
waveforms. The lower trace shows a 1kHz sinewave at
10W into an 8-ohm load while the upper trace shows the
distortion products which have a frequency of 2kHz.
September 2005 87
PICAXE
Part 4: Making
Things Move
By Clive Seager*
In Part 3, we used our Schools Experimenter board to generate
sound and measure temperature. This month in Part 4, we’ll show
you how to control motors, solenoids and even R/C servos!
IN THIS ARTICLE, you will learn:
• how to interface a motor, solenoid
and servo;
• how to use PWM to control a motor’s speed;
• how to reverse a motor;
• how to control a servo.
Before we begin, be aware that you
must not connect a motor (or solenoid)
directly to the PICAXE output pins.
The motor will draw more current than
the PICAXE can safely supply (20mA)
and so will permanently damage it!
The easiest way to interface a small
DC motor or solenoid to a PICAXE is
with the use of a Darlington transistor
and diode (see Fig.1). As indicated
by its circuit symbol, a Darlington
* About the author: Clive Seager is the
Technical Director of Revolution Education
Ltd, the developers of the PICAXE system.
88 Silicon Chip
transistor is actually two transistors
in a single package. This configuration
produces a very high gain, allowing
control of a large collector current with
a relatively small base current.
Small 1.5V DC motors typically
draw little current, so they can be
driven with low-power Darlington
transistors such as the BCX38C. Examples of this type of motor are the DSE
P-8980 “solar” motor and the Jaycar
YM-2705 “hobby” motor.
For 3V DC motors, the mediumpower BD681 Darlington transistor is
a better choice. In this application, the
BD681 can pass up to about 300mA
without a heatsink. For example, you
could drive a low-speed, low-torque
“toy” motor such as the DSE P-9000
3V DC motor without problems.
For larger motors such as the DSE
P-9002, you will need to fit a heatsink
to the BD681 – otherwise, it is likely
to overheat. A small “U” type heatsink
would be sufficient for motor currents
up to about 1A.
Note that higher voltage motors or
solenoids (eg, 12V models) will work
with this system, given the appropriate
power supply. Of course, the PICAXE
chip must still be powered from a 4.5V
battery or regulated 5V DC supply but
more on that later.
As shown in Fig.1, a 1N4001 (or
1N4004, etc.) diode must be connected
across the motor to limit back-EMF
generated voltage spikes. Without this
protection diode, the spikes might
damage Q1 and otherwise interfere
with normal circuit operation.
Another potential problem is with
electrical noise, generated by the
windings as the motor turns. A 220nF
polyester capacitor soldered directly
siliconchip.com.au
across the motor’s terminals will effectively reduce this noise.
In the example given in Fig.1, the
motor circuit is connected to output
1 (PIN 1) of the PICAXE micro. The
program in Listing 1 shows how to
switch the motor on and off every five
seconds.
Task – connect a small DC motor to your
experimenter board, using the breadboard
wiring layout in Fig.2. Enter the simple
program in Listing 1 to prove that it works.
Motor speed control
There are two ways of controlling
the speed of a DC motor. The first is
simply to vary the voltage applied to
the motor. For example, if 2V were
applied to a small DC motor it will
rotate at a lower speed than if 3V
were applied. Unfortunately, reducing
the applied voltage also reduces the
“turning power” (torque) of the motor
considerably.
In the second method, the full voltage is always applied to the motor
but it is switched on and off rapidly.
The time that the motor’s supply is
switched on is called the mark time,
and the time that it is switched off is
called the space time, as illustrated
in Fig.3. By varying the mark-space
(on-off) ratio, the speed of the motor
can be varied.
This method of speed control is
commonly called “PWM” because it is
achieved by pulse-width modulation
of the applied motor voltage. PWM is
an efficient means of speed control
and unlike the first (linear) method,
torque remains proportionally high.
In addition, PWM speed control is
easily implemented with a PICAXE
microcontroller.
The program in Listing 2 demonstrates how it’s done. In this example,
a mark-to-space ratio of 1-to-10 is used
to turn the motor very slowly. Tip: a
small propeller connected to the motor
shaft makes it much easier to see the
speed difference.
Task – experiment with different markspace ratios and observe the variations
in motor speed. What is the slowest speed
you can achieve?
This month, the Schools
Experimenter is used to
control a small DC motor
with the aid of a very simple
breadboard circuit.
Fig.1: only a
few common
components are
needed to interface
a small DC motor
or solenoid to a
PICAXE. Although
not shown here, a
220nF polyester
capacitor must be
soldered directly
across the motor’s
terminals.
Reversing a DC motor
To reverse the direction of rotation
of a DC motor, it’s simply a matter of
reversing the polarity of its power
supply. Obviously, this cannot be
achieved with our simple Darlington
driver circuit, which provides only
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.2: here’s how to wire up the motor circuit shown in Fig.1. The BD681
Darlington transistor used here is suitable for switching all low-power 3V
DC motors. Don’t forget that 220nF capacitor on the motor terminals.
September 2005 89
states of the PICAXE outputs (PIN 1
& PIN 2).
The program in Listing 3 demonstrates how to drive a motor, first in
one direction and then in the other.
Note that before reversing the motor,
it is brought to a full stop by taking
both outputs low for about 100ms.
This is necessary to prevent placing
excessive load on the motor and its
power supply.
Powering the driver
Fig.3: by varying the ratio of the “on” to “off” time of the
applied voltage, the speed of a DC motor can be varied.
This is referred to as “pulse-width modulated” (PWM)
speed control.
“on-off” control. What we need is a
circuit that can switch both supply
leads to the motor. Such a circuit
requires a minimum of four transistors in a “H-bridge” configuration, as
illustrated in Fig.4.
In this configuration, the transistors
are driven as pairs. When all transistors are off, no current flows and so the
motor is off. If Q1 and Q4 are switched
on at the same time, current flows from
left to right through the motor. If Q2
and Q3 are switched on at the same
time, current flows the other way,
hence reversing the motor.
Note that the top and bottom transistors on one side must not be switched
on together as this would result in a
short circuit across the power supply
rails and certain disaster!
Fortunately, there’s no need to wire
up a complex H-bridge circuit if you
would like to experiment with twoway motor control. Instead, an L293D
Driver IC is ideal for the job. It contains
four complete “push-pull” drivers
(channels), each channel with its own
output transistor pair and protection
diodes.
Two channels are all that’s needed
to form a complete H-bridge configuration, allowing two motors to be driven
from a single IC. The L293D is available in a standard 16-pin DIL package
and includes in-built over-temperature
protection.
Fig.5 shows a general scheme for
controlling two motors, although only
one motor is controlled by the PICAXE
in this example. Two outputs from the
PICAXE are connected to the control
inputs of two channels of the L293D on
pins 2 & 7. Table 1 shows the response
of Motor A to the four possible logic
Fig.4: a minimum of four transistors in a “H-bridge” configuration is required to be able to drive a DC motor in
both directions. Note that this is not a complete working
circuit – it just illustrates the concept.
90 Silicon Chip
The L293D should be powered from
the same supply as the PICAXE. The
positive rail (shown here as +4.5V)
connects to pin 16 of the L293D and
the 0V rail to pins 4, 5, 12 & 13. A separate input (pin 8) is provided for motor
power. If controlling a 3V motor, this
input can be connected to the PICAXE
+4.5V supply as well. However, for
higher voltage motors, pin 8 should be
wired to a separate supply of 4.5-36V,
as appropriate for the motor.
When a higher voltage supply is
needed, you may find it more convenient to power your PICAXE circuits
from that supply, rather than using a
separate 4.5V battery pack. This can be
achieved by adding a simple regulator
circuit, like that shown in Fig.7. This
circuit will accept an input range of
6-17V DC and provide a regulated 5V
output for the experimenter board.
Similar regulator circuits are available in kit form. For example, both
Jaycar (cat. KA-1797) and DSE (cat.
K-3594) stock the “Universal Voltage
Adapter” kit published in “Electronics
Australia”. Note that these kits support
user-selectable output voltages that
must be set for 5V during assembly.
Note also that a heatsink may be
required for the L293D when driving
larger motors. To avoid this pitfall,
we recommend the use of low-power
3V motors for the simple experiments
presented here. For those interested
in all the details, the L293D datasheet
can be downloaded from www.st.com
and www.ti.com
Task – wire up a L293D circuit on your
breadboard and connect it to output 1 and
output 2 of the PICAXE, as shown in Fig.6.
Write a program that reverses the direction
of the motor every time the switch on input
3 is pushed.
Fault-finding
Is your motor circuit behaving erratically? Chances are, it’s caused by
motor noise. Try removing the motor
siliconchip.com.au
Par t s Lis t
1 BD681 Darlington transistor
1 1N4001 (or 1N4004) diode
1 L293D motor driver IC
1 small 3V DC motor (see text)
1 1.5kW 0.25W 5% resistor
2 220nF 50V polyester (MKT)
capacitors
1 3-pin header
1 R/C servo (e.g. Jaycar YM-2760)
Where To Buy Parts
Fig.5: the L293D driver IC makes it very easy to control one or two small
DC motors. In this example, two PICAXE outputs are used to control the
direction of a motor (Motor A). If speed control is required as well, then
the enable input (pin 1) of the L293D could be connected to a third PICAXE
output rather than to the +4.5V rail. Back-EMF protection diodes are
included in the L293D, so you don’t need to add them when using this chip.
The L293D driver IC can be ordered
from MicroZed, see www.picaxe.
com.au for more information or
phone (02) 4351 0886. Suitable
3V DC motors are available from
Dick Smith Electronics and Jaycar
Electronics or can be salvaged from
old toys. The BCX38C Darlington
transistor mentioned in the text is
available from Farnell (cat. 425497), phone 1300 361 005.
Table 1
Pin 1
H
Pin 2
L
Function
Turn Left
L
H
Turn Right
L
H
L
H
Fast Stop
Fast Stop
Fig.6: it’s easy to drive a small 3V DC motor using the L293D IC. The wiring
diagram shown here closely follows the circuit in Fig.5, although
only two of the ground (0V) pins of the IC are connected. A
220nF capacitor provides additional noise filtering for
the motor power input on pin 8.
and replacing it with a LED and a
1kW series resistor. If your program
then runs as expected, the problem is
definitely a result of noise.
As a first step, check that a 220nF
polyester capacitor is connected directly across the motor terminals as
described earlier. Also, try connecting
the power supply leads for the motor
circuit directly to the battery or power
supply output, rather than to the header (H1) on the experimenter board.
Extra power supply filtering near the
motor may also prove beneficial.
Radio control servos
Small servos, such as those found
siliconchip.com.au
The L293D driver chip is
ideal for use in small robotic
vehicles, such as the PICAXE
micro-robot (Part No. AXE120).
September 2005 91
Fig.7: advanced experimenters may wish to use a 6V (or 12V)
battery or plugpack to power a higher voltage motor or solenoid.
In this case, the experimenter board can be powered from the
same source by adding a simple regulator circuit. You can
either assemble one like that shown here on a small section of
prototyping board or buy a kit of parts (see text).
in radio control (R/C) models, contain
a motor, gearbox and controller board
(see Fig.8). A potentiometer (variable
resistor) is connected to the output
shaft to provide position feedback to
the controller board. This allows the
controller to accurately position the
shaft according to instructions from
its host.
To control a servo, it is not necessary to interface directly to its motor.
Instead, a simple digital connection is
made to the integral controller board
via the white/yellow signal wire.
A servo can be connected directly
to the 3-pin header (H2) on the experimenter board. Two pins provide power
to the servo, while the third drives
the servo’s signal line via output 0 of
the PICAXE. If you haven’t installed
this header yet, then you should do
that next.
When plugged into the on-board
header, the servo is being powered
from the same supply as the experimenter board, so it will be running at
less than the 4.8-6V supply usually
specified for these devices. If more
torque is required, then you will need
to connect the supply leads to a separate 6V supply.
For a servo to operate, it must
receive a pulsed signal every 20ms.
The length of this pulse (0.75-2.25ms)
determines the position of the output
shaft. For example, a pulse length of
1.5ms moves the shaft to the central
position.
Servo software
The Schools Experimenter Board can directly drive an RC-type servo motor. Just
connect it to the 3-pin header (H2) on the board and use the demo code shown
in Listings 4 & 5.
92 Silicon Chip
In Listing 4, you will find a small
program that moves the servo to two
different positions using for…next
loops (described in Part 3). The pulsout command is used to generate the
short pulse, where pulsout 1,100 literally means: “output a pulse of length
1.0 ms on output 1”.
One drawback with this system
is that the coded pulse must be sent
every 20ms; otherwise, the servo goes
“loose” and moves out of position.
This could be quite a problem when
you are trying to do other things (eg,
waiting for a switch press) in your
PICAXE program.
Fortunately, the PICAXE servo command is designed to address this very
problem! Unlike most other BASIC
commands, the servo command (once
activated) operates continuously in
the background, supplying the servo
with its pulse every 20ms. A simple
siliconchip.com.au
Program Listings
What’s Inside A Servo?
Listing 1
main:
high 1
pause 5000
low 1
pause 5000
goto main
Listing 2
Fig.8: exploded view of a
typical R/C servo, showing
that there’s a lot more than
just a motor inside the
plastic case.
example is given in Listing 5, where
a servo arm is moved back and forth
in response to the press of a switch
on input 3.
What’s coming?
Can this little 8-pin chip really do
more? You bet!
Next month, we’ll show you how to
control the experimenter’s board using
an infrared remote. We’ll also record
and playback sounds with an add-on
speech module.
SC
main:
high 1
pause 1
low 1
pause 10
goto main
Listing 3
main:
' ensure motor is stopped
low 1
low 2
pause 100
' forward direction
high 1
low 2
pause 3000
' stop motor
low 1
pause 100
' reverse direction
low 1
high 2
pause 3000
goto main
Listing 4
main:
for b1 = 1 to 200
pulsout 1,100
pause 20
next b1
for b1 = 1 to 200
pulsout 1,200
pause 20
next b1
goto main
Listing 5
main1:
servo 1, 100
pause 1000
loop1:
if pin3 = 1 then main2
goto loop1
main2:
servo 1, 200
pause 1000
loop2:
if pin3 = 1 then main1
goto loop2
TAKE YOUR PIC
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Developed for students, & professional performance
makes PICAXE the most easy-to-use micro ever:
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PHONE (02) 4351 0886
8.30-4.30 AEST Mon-Fri
FAX (02) 4351 0889 24 Hours
ALL PICAXE ITEMS ON OUR SHELVES!
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School Electronic Supplies (John - 03 8802 0628 – School orders only)
September 2005 93
Salvage It!
BY JULIAN EDGAR
Scrounging & using shortwave radios
This month, we’re going to make use of a
discarded appliance that’s complete – no
dismantling or salvaging of bits required!
Welcome to the world of shortwave radio.
Not quite sure what a shortwave
radio is? Well, quite simply, it’s a radio
that can tune in stations that operate at frequencies much higher than
those on the familiar broadcast band.
These stations also operate at shorter
wavelengths than broadcast band stations (the higher the frequency, the
shorter the wavelength), hence the
term “shortwave stations”.
With the ability of the web to run
streaming audio from all around the
world, listening to foreign stations
via shortwave radio has dramatically
declined in popularity. But take it
from me, it’s a lot of fun exploring the
shortwave radio bands and tuning in
overseas stations. And best of all, it
can cost next to nothing to obtain a
shortwave radio and almost nothing
to run it.
That’s a lot different to paying for a
PC and the bandwidth chewed up by
streaming audio downloads!
Shortwave radio stations are set up
by countries primarily to present their
political and cultural perspectives to
the rest of the world. They’ve been doing that for well over 70 years but that
doesn’t mean the program content is
always dry – there’s music, news, talkshows and other program material, just
like on a national broadcaster.
What’s really interesting is the way
This close-up view clearly shows the
two shortwave radio bands (SW1 &
SW2) on the dial of the old National
Panasonic unit.
in which world events are seen so
differently by individual countries
– it can be startling to hear the same
news event described in terms that
are completely different to what you
are used to. In many cases, overseas
broadcasts are nothing more than
blatant propaganda but it’s still interesting to listen to other perspectives
on world events.
Buying a shortwave radio
This old National Panasonic radio-cassette player was picked up at the local
tip for just $5. In addition to AM/FM radio reception, it also boasts shortwave
reception on two bands and has external aerial and earth connections. It also
features a fine-tuning knob, making it perfect for listening to shortwave stations.
94 Silicon Chip
Dedicated shortwave radios can be
bought secondhand from about $30, or
even less at a garage sale. Alternatively,
you can buy low-cost units new for
somewhere around $40.
However, there are shortwave radios
and there are shortwave radios – in my
experience, the “cheapies” are terrible.
In any case, $30 is outside our budget
here. Instead, the trick is to find an old
portable radio-cassette player – one
that was once an expensive unit. In
addition to FM and AM bands (and of
course the cassette part as well), quite
a few of these have shortwave reception. And they tend to be cheaper than
dedicated radios – it seems no one
wants cassette players these days!
There are some key points to look for
– the radio must have external aerial
and earth connections and it must have
siliconchip.com.au
a fine-tuning knob. Let’s take a look at
why each is required.
Despite many shortwave radios using nothing more than a whip antenna,
in most cases you really need a longwire antenna and an earth connection
to get usable reception (they’re both
easy to organise, so stay with us). Also,
tuning a shortwave radio is a very different to tuning a conventional radio.
In short, you need to be able to very
precisely tune in a given station – hiccup and you’ll miss it. That’s where a
fine-tuning knob is critical; without
it, you’ll find that accurate tuning is
quite difficult.
Other features to look out for are
those that you’d expect in any quality
radio – things like a headphone socket,
line-level outputs, and bass and treble
controls. You’re not necessarily going
to use any of these but their presence
is evidence that you’ll got a quality
piece of gear in front of you – one
that is likely to give good shortwave
reception.
The radio-cassette player pictured
here is a National Panasonic RX-5100
unit and was purchased from the
shop at the local tip for a measly $5.
It was in pretty good order but was
missing its whip antenna and lacked
a power cord. It also has some dents
and scratches – the latter probably
occurring when it was thrown on the
tip. The volume controls (it uses dual
controls) were also scratchy.
But those quibbles aside, the unit
works beautifully, with good sound
and excellent shortwave reception.
Aerial and earth
After you’ve checked that the radio
actually works (try it on the broadcast
band), you’ll need to add an aerial
and an earth. Connect the aerial first –
some radios earth themselves through
the mains power connection while in
others, an earth connection seems to
make little difference.
The aerial can consist of any long
piece of wire that’s supported as far
above the ground as possible. That
doesn’t mean you need to invest in
tall masts and lots of high-quality wire
– any wire that’s strong enough to support the span will do. You can string it
between trees or from the roof of your
house down to the ground, with insulators at the “tie-offs” at each end.
The one I used is about 15 metres
long and about five metres above
the ground. What will work for you
siliconchip.com.au
An external aerial is a must for good shortwave listening
but it doesn’t need to be anything fancy. Here, the
aerial wire has been run from a short mast at left to the
elevated house at right (ie, between the two arrows).
depends a lot on the radio and your
location – try different lengths and
heights.
Connect one end to the aerial
terminal of the radio and try tuning
carefully and slowly across the shortwave bands. You should now be able
to hear shortwave stations that were
previously buried in noise.
Note that tuning a shortwave radio is
not like twiddling an AM or FM dial:
tuning slowly across the whole band
might literally take you 10-15 minutes.
When you hear a loud noise, fine-tune
with the appropriate knob. Unless
you’re very unlucky, you should be
able to hear some stations – stations
that your near-zero-dollar radio is pulling in from around the world!
Once you’re hearing something, try
adding an earth connection. This is
literally a wire connecting the earth
terminal to the ground outside – it’s
best if you drive a copper stake into
the ground or make a connection to a
copper water pipe. If the earth connection improves reception, that’s great.
If it doesn’t, leave it off.
You’ll soon learn that analog radios
tend to drift a little, so you will have to
re-tune periodically to stay on-station.
Note also that shortwave stations
change the frequencies on which they
broadcast at different times of the day.
That’s done to counter changing reception conditions.
So next time you see an old portable
radio-cassette player going for a song,
grab it and have a listen. Tuning in to
the shortwave bands is lots of fun. SC
Rat It Before You Chuck It!
Whenever you throw away an old TV (or
VCR or washing machine or dishwasher
or printer) do you always think that surely
there must be some good salvageable
components inside? Well, this column is
for you! (And it’s also for people without a
lot of dough.) Each month we’ll use bits
and pieces sourced from discards, sometimes in mini-projects and other times as
an ideas smorgasbord.
And you can contribute as well. If you
have a use for specific parts which can
easily be salvaged from goods commonly
being thrown away, we’d love to hear from
you. Perhaps you use the pressure switch
from a washing machine to control a pump.
Or maybe you have a use for the highquality bearings from VCR heads. Or
perhaps you’ve found how the guts of a
cassette player can be easily turned into
a metal detector. (Well, we made the last
one up but you get the idea . . .)
If you have some practical ideas, write
in and tell us!
September 2005 95
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PIC MICROCONTROLLERS: know it all
SELF ON AUDIO
Multiple authors $85.00
The best of subjects Newnes authors have written over the past few years,
combined in a one-stop maxi reference. Covers introduction to PICs and their
programming in Assembly, PICBASIC, MBASIC & C. 900+ pages.
PROGRAMMING and CUSTOMIZING THE
PICAXE By David Lincoln (2nd Ed, 2011) $65.00*
A great aid when wrestling with applications for the PICAXE
See
series of microcontrollers, at beginner, intermediate and
Review
April
advanced levels. Every electronics class, school and library should have a
copy, along with anyone who works with PICAXEs. 300 pages in paperback. 2011
PIC IN PRACTICE
by D W Smith. 2nd Edition - published 2006 $60.00*
Based on popular short courses on the PIC, for professionals, students
and teachers. Can be used at a variety of levels. An ideal introduction to the
world of microcontrollers. 255 pages in paperback.
PIC MICROCONTROLLER – your personal introductory course By John Morton 3rd edition 2005. $60.00*
A unique and practical guide to getting up and running with the PIC. It assumes no knowledge of microcontrollers – ideal introduction for students,
teachers, technicians and electronics enthusiasts. Revised 3rd edition focuses entirely
on re-programmable flash PICs such as 16F54, 16F84 12F508 and 12F675. 226 pages
in paperback.
by Douglas Self 2nd Edition 2006 $69.00*
A collection of 35 classic magazine articles offering a dependable methodology for designing audio power amplifiers to improve performance at every
point without significantly increasing cost. Includes compressors/limiters,
hybrid bipolar/FET amps, electronic switching and more. 467 pages in paperback.
SMALL SIGNAL AUDIO DESIGN
By Douglas Self – First Edition 2010 $95.00*
The latest from the Guru of audio. Explains audio concepts in easy-to-understand language with plenty of examples and reasoning. Inspiration for audio
designers, superb background for audio enthusiasts and especially where it comes to
component peculiarities and limitations. Expensive? Yes. Value for money? YES! Highly
recommended. 558 pages in paperback.
AUDIO POWER AMPLIFIER DESIGN HANDBOOK
by Douglas Self – 5th Edition 2009 $85.00*
"The Bible" on audio power amplifiers. Many revisions and
updates to the previous edition and now has an extra three
chapters covering Class XD, Power Amp Input Systems and
Input Processing and Auxiliarly Subsystems. Not cheap and not a book
for the beginner but if you want the best reference on Audio Power Amps,
you want this one! 463 pages in paperback.
DVD PLAYERS AND DRIVES
by K.F. Ibrahim. Published 2003. $71.00*
OP AMPS FOR EVERYONE
By Bruce Carter – 4th Edition 2013 $83.00*
This is the bible for anyone designing op amp circuits and you don't
have to be an engineer to get the most out of it. It is written in simple language
but gives lots of in-depth info, bridging the gap between the theoretical and the
practical. 281 pages,
A guide to DVD technology and applications, with particular focus
on design issues and pitfalls, maintenance and repair. Ideal for
engineers, technicians, students of consumer electronics and
sales and installation staff. 319 pages in paperback.
by Sanjaya Maniktala, Published April 2012. $83.00
Thoroughly revised! The most comprehensive study available of theoretical and practical aspects of controlling and measuring
EMI in switching power supplies.
Subtitled Exploring the PIC32, a Microchip insider tells all on this powerful
PIC! Focuses on examples and exercises that show how to solve common,
real-world design problems quickly. Includes handy checklists. FREE CD-ROM includes
source code in C, the Microchip C30 compiler, and MPLAB SIM. 400 pages paperback.
By Garry Cratt – Latest (7th) Edition 2008 $49.00
Written in Australia, for Australian conditions by one of Australia's foremost
satellite TV experts. If there is anything you wanted to know about setting up
a satellite TV system, (including what you can't do!) it's sure to be covered
in this 176-page paperback book.
See
Review
Feb
2004
SWITCHING POWER SUPPLIES A-Z
PROGRAMMING 32-bit MICROCONTROLLERS
IN C By Luci di Jasio (2008) $79.00*
PRACTICAL GUIDE TO SATELLITE TV
See
Review
March
2010
ELECTRIC MOTORS AND DRIVES
By Austin Hughes & Bill Drury - 4th edition 2013 $59.00*
This is a very easy to read book with very little mathematics or
formulas. It covers the basics of all the main motor types, DC
permanent magnet and wound field, AC induction and steppers and
gives a very good description of how speed control circuits work with these
motors. Soft covers, 444 pages.
NEWNES GUIDE TO TV & VIDEO TECHNOLOGY
By KF Ibrahim 4th Edition (Published 2007) $49.00
It's back! Provides a full and comprehensive coverage of video and television technology including HDTV and DVD. Starts with fundamentals so is
ideal for students but covers in-depth technologies such as Blu-ray, DLP,
Digital TV, etc so is also perfect for engineers. 600+ pages in paperback.
RF CIRCUIT DESIGN
by Chris Bowick, Second Edition, 2008. $63.00*
The classic RF circuit design book. RF circuit design is now more important
that ever in the wireless world. In most of the wireless devices that we use
there is an RF component – this book tells how to design and integrate in a
very practical fashion. 244 pages in paperback.
PRACTICAL RF HANDBOOK
AC MACHINES
By Jim Lowe Published 2006 $66.00*
Applicable to Australian trades-level courses including NE10 AC Machines,
NE12 Synchronous Machines and the AC part of NE30 Electric Motor
Control and Protection. Covering polyphase induction motors, singlephase motors, synchronous machines and polyphase motor starting. 160
pages in paperback.
PRACTICAL VARIABLE SPEED DRIVES &
POWER ELECTRONICS
Se
e
by Malcolm Barnes. 1st Ed, Feb 2003. $73.00* Review
An essential reference for engineers and anyone who wishes
to design or use variable speed drives for induction motors.
286 pages in soft cover.
Feb
2003
BUILD YOUR OWN ELECTRIC MOTORCYCLE
by Carl Vogel. Published 2009. $40.00*
by Ian Hickman. 4th edition 2007 $61.00*
Alternative fuel expert Carl Vogel gives you a hands-on guide with
A guide to RF design for engineers, technicians, students and enthusiasts.
the latest technical information and easy-to-follow instructions
Covers key topics in RF: analog design principles, transmission lines,
for building a two-wheeled electric vehicle – from a streamlined
couplers, transformers, amplifiers, oscillators, modulation, transmitters and
scooter to a full-sized motorcycle. 384 pages in soft cover.
receivers, propagation and antennas. 279 pages in paperback.
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SILICON
For the latest titles and information, please refer to our website books page: www.siliconchip.com.au/Shop/Books
PIC MICROCONTROLLERS: know it all
SELF ON AUDIO
Multiple authors $85.00
The best of subjects Newnes authors have written over the past few years,
combined in a one-stop maxi reference. Covers introduction to PICs and their
programming in Assembly, PICBASIC, MBASIC & C. 900+ pages.
PROGRAMMING and CUSTOMIZING THE
PICAXE By David Lincoln (2nd Ed, 2011) $65.00*
A great aid when wrestling with applications for the PICAXE
See
series of microcontrollers, at beginner, intermediate and
Review
April
advanced levels. Every electronics class, school and library should have a
copy, along with anyone who works with PICAXEs. 300 pages in paperback. 2011
PIC IN PRACTICE
by D W Smith. 2nd Edition - published 2006 $60.00*
Based on popular short courses on the PIC, for professionals, students
and teachers. Can be used at a variety of levels. An ideal introduction to the
world of microcontrollers. 255 pages in paperback.
PIC MICROCONTROLLER – your personal introductory course By John Morton 3rd edition 2005. $60.00*
A unique and practical guide to getting up and running with the PIC. It assumes no knowledge of microcontrollers – ideal introduction for students,
teachers, technicians and electronics enthusiasts. Revised 3rd edition focuses entirely
on re-programmable flash PICs such as 16F54, 16F84 12F508 and 12F675. 226 pages
in paperback.
by Douglas Self 2nd Edition 2006 $69.00*
A collection of 35 classic magazine articles offering a dependable methodology for designing audio power amplifiers to improve performance at every
point without significantly increasing cost. Includes compressors/limiters,
hybrid bipolar/FET amps, electronic switching and more. 467 pages in paperback.
SMALL SIGNAL AUDIO DESIGN
By Douglas Self – First Edition 2010 $95.00*
The latest from the Guru of audio. Explains audio concepts in easy-to-understand language with plenty of examples and reasoning. Inspiration for audio
designers, superb background for audio enthusiasts and especially where it comes to
component peculiarities and limitations. Expensive? Yes. Value for money? YES! Highly
recommended. 558 pages in paperback.
AUDIO POWER AMPLIFIER DESIGN HANDBOOK
by Douglas Self – 5th Edition 2009 $85.00*
"The Bible" on audio power amplifiers. Many revisions and
updates to the previous edition and now has an extra three
chapters covering Class XD, Power Amp Input Systems and
Input Processing and Auxiliarly Subsystems. Not cheap and not a book
for the beginner but if you want the best reference on Audio Power Amps,
you want this one! 463 pages in paperback.
DVD PLAYERS AND DRIVES
by K.F. Ibrahim. Published 2003. $71.00*
OP AMPS FOR EVERYONE
By Bruce Carter – 4th Edition 2013 $83.00*
This is the bible for anyone designing op amp circuits and you don't
have to be an engineer to get the most out of it. It is written in simple language
but gives lots of in-depth info, bridging the gap between the theoretical and the
practical. 281 pages,
A guide to DVD technology and applications, with particular focus
on design issues and pitfalls, maintenance and repair. Ideal for
engineers, technicians, students of consumer electronics and
sales and installation staff. 319 pages in paperback.
by Sanjaya Maniktala, Published April 2012. $83.00
Thoroughly revised! The most comprehensive study available of theoretical and practical aspects of controlling and measuring
EMI in switching power supplies.
Subtitled Exploring the PIC32, a Microchip insider tells all on this powerful
PIC! Focuses on examples and exercises that show how to solve common,
real-world design problems quickly. Includes handy checklists. FREE CD-ROM includes
source code in C, the Microchip C30 compiler, and MPLAB SIM. 400 pages paperback.
By Garry Cratt – Latest (7th) Edition 2008 $49.00
Written in Australia, for Australian conditions by one of Australia's foremost
satellite TV experts. If there is anything you wanted to know about setting up
a satellite TV system, (including what you can't do!) it's sure to be covered
in this 176-page paperback book.
See
Review
Feb
2004
SWITCHING POWER SUPPLIES A-Z
PROGRAMMING 32-bit MICROCONTROLLERS
IN C By Luci di Jasio (2008) $79.00*
PRACTICAL GUIDE TO SATELLITE TV
See
Review
March
2010
ELECTRIC MOTORS AND DRIVES
By Austin Hughes & Bill Drury - 4th edition 2013 $59.00*
This is a very easy to read book with very little mathematics or
formulas. It covers the basics of all the main motor types, DC
permanent magnet and wound field, AC induction and steppers and
gives a very good description of how speed control circuits work with these
motors. Soft covers, 444 pages.
NEWNES GUIDE TO TV & VIDEO TECHNOLOGY
By KF Ibrahim 4th Edition (Published 2007) $49.00
It's back! Provides a full and comprehensive coverage of video and television technology including HDTV and DVD. Starts with fundamentals so is
ideal for students but covers in-depth technologies such as Blu-ray, DLP,
Digital TV, etc so is also perfect for engineers. 600+ pages in paperback.
RF CIRCUIT DESIGN
by Chris Bowick, Second Edition, 2008. $63.00*
The classic RF circuit design book. RF circuit design is now more important
that ever in the wireless world. In most of the wireless devices that we use
there is an RF component – this book tells how to design and integrate in a
very practical fashion. 244 pages in paperback.
PRACTICAL RF HANDBOOK
AC MACHINES
By Jim Lowe Published 2006 $66.00*
Applicable to Australian trades-level courses including NE10 AC Machines,
NE12 Synchronous Machines and the AC part of NE30 Electric Motor
Control and Protection. Covering polyphase induction motors, singlephase motors, synchronous machines and polyphase motor starting. 160
pages in paperback.
PRACTICAL VARIABLE SPEED DRIVES &
POWER ELECTRONICS
Se
e
by Malcolm Barnes. 1st Ed, Feb 2003. $73.00* Review
An essential reference for engineers and anyone who wishes
to design or use variable speed drives for induction motors.
286 pages in soft cover.
Feb
2003
BUILD YOUR OWN ELECTRIC MOTORCYCLE
by Carl Vogel. Published 2009. $40.00*
by Ian Hickman. 4th edition 2007 $61.00*
Alternative fuel expert Carl Vogel gives you a hands-on guide with
A guide to RF design for engineers, technicians, students and enthusiasts.
the latest technical information and easy-to-follow instructions
Covers key topics in RF: analog design principles, transmission lines,
for building a two-wheeled electric vehicle – from a streamlined
couplers, transformers, amplifiers, oscillators, modulation, transmitters and
scooter to a full-sized motorcycle. 384 pages in soft cover.
receivers, propagation and antennas. 279 pages in paperback.
*NOTE: ALL PRICES ARE PLUS P&P – AUSTRALIA ONLY: $10.00 per order; NZ – $AU12.00 PER BOOK; REST OF WORLD $AU18.00 PER BOOK
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Silicon Chip Back Issues
April 1989: Auxiliary Brake Light Flasher; What You Need to Know
About Capacitors; 32-Band Graphic Equaliser, Pt.2.
May 1989: Build A Synthesised Tom-Tom; Biofeedback Monitor For
Your PC; Simple Stub Filter For Suppressing TV Interference.
July 1989: Exhaust Gas Monitor; Experimental Mains Hum Sniffers;
Compact Ultrasonic Car Alarm; The NSW 86 Class Electrics.
September 1989: 2-Chip Portable AM Stereo Radio Pt.1; High Or Low
Fluid Level Detector; Studio Series 20-Band Stereo Equaliser, Pt.2.
October 1989: FM Radio Intercom For Motorbikes Pt.1; GaAsFet
Preamplifier For Amateur TV; 2-Chip Portable AM Stereo Radio, Pt.2.
November 1989: Radfax Decoder For Your PC (Displays Fax, RTTY &
Morse); FM Radio Intercom For Motorbikes, Pt.2; 2-Chip Portable AM
Stereo Radio, Pt.3; Floppy Disk Drive Formats & Options.
January 1990: High Quality Sine/Square Oscillator; Service Tips For
Your VCR; Active Antenna Kit; Designing UHF Transmitter Stages.
February 1990: A 16-Channel Mixing Desk; Build A High Quality Audio
Oscillator, Pt.2; The Incredible Hot Canaries; Random Wire Antenna
Tuner For 6 Metres; Phone Patch For Radio Amateurs, Pt.2.
March 1990: Delay Unit For Automatic Antennas; Workout Timer For
Aerobics Classes; 16-Channel Mixing Desk, Pt.2; Using The UC3906
SLA Battery Charger IC.
March 1995: 2 x 50W Stereo Amplifier, Pt.1; Subcarrier Decoder For
FM Receivers; Wide Range Electrostatic Loudspeakers, Pt.2; IR Illuminator For CCD Cameras; Remote Control System For Models, Pt.3.
February 1993: Three Projects For Model Railroads; Low Fuel Indicator
For Cars; Audio Level/VU Meter (LED Readout); An Electronic Cockroach; 2kW 24VDC To 240VAC Sinewave Inverter, Pt.5.
April 1995: FM Radio Trainer, Pt.1; Balanced Mic Preamp & Line
Filter; 50W/Channel Stereo Amplifier, Pt.2; Wide Range Electrostatic
Loudspeakers, Pt.3; 8-Channel Decoder For Radio Remote Control.
March 1993: Solar Charger For 12V Batteries; Reaction Trainer; Audio
Mixer for Camcorders; A 24-Hour Sidereal Clock For Astronomers.
May 1995: Guitar Headphone Amplifier; FM Radio Trainer, Pt.2; Transistor/Mosfet Tester For DMMs; A 16-Channel Decoder For Radio Remote
Control; Introduction To Satellite TV.
April 1993: Solar-Powered Electric Fence; Audio Power Meter; ThreeFunction Home Weather Station; 12VDC To 70VDC Converter.
June 1995: Build A Satellite TV Receiver; Train Detector For Model
Railways; 1W Audio Amplifier Trainer; Low-Cost Video Security System;
Multi-Channel Radio Control Transmitter For Models, Pt.1.
June 1993: AM Radio Trainer, Pt.1; Remote Control For The Woofer
Stopper; Digital Voltmeter For Cars.
July 1995: Electric Fence Controller; How To Run Two Trains On A
Single Track (Incl. Lights & Sound); Setting Up A Satellite TV Ground
Station; Build A Reliable Door Minder.
July 1993: Single Chip Message Recorder; Light Beam Relay
Extender; AM Radio Trainer, Pt.2; Quiz Game Adjudicator; Antenna
Tuners – Why They Are Useful.
August 1995: Fuel Injector Monitor For Cars; Gain Controlled Microphone Preamp; How To Identify IDE Hard Disk Drive Parameters.
August 1993: Low-Cost Colour Video Fader; 60-LED Brake Light Array; Microprocessor-Based Sidereal Clock; Satellites & Their Orbits.
September 1993: Automatic Nicad Battery Charger/Discharger; Stereo
Preamplifier With IR Remote Control, Pt.1; In-Circuit Transistor Tester;
+5V to ±15V DC Converter; Remote-Controlled Cockroach.
October 1993: Courtesy Light Switch-Off Timer For Cars; Wireless
Microphone For Musicians; Stereo Preamplifier With IR Remote
Control, Pt.2; Electronic Engine Management, Pt.1.
September 1995: Railpower Mk.2 Walkaround Throttle For Model
Railways, Pt.1; Keypad Combination Lock; Jacob’s Ladder Display.
October 1995: 3-Way Loudspeaker System; Railpower Mk.2 Walkaround Throttle For Model Railways, Pt.2; Nicad Fast Charger.
November 1995: Mixture Display For Fuel Injected Cars; CB Transverter
For The 80M Amateur Band, Pt.1; PIR Movement Detector.
November 1993: High Efficiency Inverter For Fluorescent Tubes; Stereo
Preamplifier With IR Remote Control, Pt.3; Siren Sound Generator;
Engine Management, Pt.2; Experiments For Games Cards.
December 1995: Engine Immobiliser; 5-Band Equaliser; CB Transverter
For The 80M Amateur Band, Pt.2; Subwoofer Controller; Knock Sensing
In Cars; Index To Volume 8.
June 1990: Multi-Sector Home Burglar Alarm; Build A Low-Noise
Universal Stereo Preamplifier; Load Protector For Power Supplies.
December 1993: Remote Controller For Garage Doors; LED Stroboscope; 25W Audio Amplifier Module; A 1-Chip Melody Generator;
Engine Management, Pt.3; Index To Volume 6.
May 1996: High Voltage Insulation Tester; Knightrider LED Chaser;
Simple Intercom Uses Optical Cable; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.3.
July 1990: Digital Sine/Square Generator, Pt.1 (0-500kHz); Burglar
Alarm Keypad & Combination Lock; Build A Simple Electronic Die;
January 1994: 3A 40V Variable Power Supply; Solar Panel Switching
Regulator; Printer Status Indicator; Mini Drill Speed Controller; Stepper Motor Controller; Active Filter Design; Engine Management, Pt.4.
April 1990: Dual Tracking ±50V Power Supply; Voice-Operated Switch
With Delayed Audio; 16-Channel Mixing Desk, Pt.3; Active CW Filter.
August 1990: Universal Safety Timer For Mains Appliances (9 Minutes);
Horace The Electronic Cricket; Digital Sine/Square Generator, Pt.2.
September 1990: 3-Digit Counter Module; Simple Shortwave Converter
For The 2-Metre Band; Taking Care Of Nicad Battery Packs.
October 1990: The Dangers of PCBs; Low-Cost Siren For Burglar
Alarms; Dimming Controls For The Discolight; Surfsound Simulator;
DC Offset For DMMs; NE602 Converter Circuits.
February 1994:90-Second Message Recorder; 12-240VAC 200W Inverter; 0.5W Audio Amplifier; 3A 40V Adjustable Power Supply; Engine
Management, Pt.5; Airbags In Cars – How They Work.
March 1994: Intelligent IR Remote Controller; 50W (LM3876) Audio
Amplifier Module; Level Crossing Detector For Model Railways; Voice
Activated Switch For FM Microphones; Engine Management, Pt.6.
June 1996: Stereo Simulator (uses delay chip); Rope Light Chaser;
Low Ohms Tester For Your DMM; Automatic 10A Battery Charger.
July 1996: VGA Digital Oscilloscope, Pt.1; Remote Control Extender
For VCRs; 2A SLA Battery Charger; 3-Band Parametric Equaliser;.
August 1996: Introduction to IGBTs; Electronic Starter For Fluorescent
Lamps; VGA Oscilloscope, Pt.2; 350W Amplifier Module; Masthead
Amplifier For TV & FM; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.4.
September 1996: VGA Oscilloscope, Pt.3; IR Stereo Headphone Link,
Pt.1; HF Amateur Radio Receiver; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.5.
April 1994: Sound & Lights For Model Railway Level Crossings; Dual
Supply Voltage Regulator; Universal Stereo Preamplifier; Digital Water
Tank Gauge; Engine Management, Pt.7.
October 1996: Send Video Signals Over Twisted Pair Cable; 600W
DC-DC Converter For Car Hifi Systems, Pt.1; IR Stereo Headphone
Link, Pt.2; Multi-Channel Radio Control Transmitter, Pt.8.
May 1994: Fast Charger For Nicad Batteries; Induction Balance Metal
Locator; Multi-Channel Infrared Remote Control; Dual Electronic Dice;
Simple Servo Driver Circuits; Engine Management, Pt.8.
November 1996: 8-Channel Stereo Mixer, Pt.1; Low-Cost Fluorescent
Light Inverter; Repairing Domestic Light Dimmers; 600W DC-DC
Converter For Car Hifi Systems, Pt.2.
June 1994: A Coolant Level Alarm For Your Car; 80-Metre AM/CW
Transmitter For Amateurs; Converting Phono Inputs To Line Inputs;
PC-Based Nicad Battery Monitor; Engine Management, Pt.9.
December 1996: Active Filter For CW Reception; Fast Clock
For Railway Modellers; Laser Pistol & Electronic Target; Build
A Sound Level Meter; 8-Channel Stereo Mixer, Pt.2; Index To Vol.9.
July 1994: Build A 4-Bay Bow-Tie UHF TV Antenna; PreChamp 2-Transistor Preamplifier; Steam Train Whistle & Diesel Horn Simulator; 6V
SLA Battery Charger; Electronic Engine Management, Pt.10.
January 1997: Control Panel For Multiple Smoke Alarms, Pt.1; Build
A Pink Noise Source; Computer Controlled Dual Power Supply, Pt.1;
Digi-Temp Thermometer (Monitors Eight Temperatures).
August 1994: High-Power Dimmer For Incandescent Lights; Dual Diversity Tuner For FM Microphones, Pt.1; Nicad Zapper (For Resurrecting
Nicad Batteries); Electronic Engine Management, Pt.11.
February 1997: PC-Controlled Moving Message Display; Computer
Controlled Dual Power Supply, Pt.2; Alert-A-Phone Loud Sounding
Telephone Alarm; Control Panel For Multiple Smoke Alarms, Pt.2.
September 1991: Digital Altimeter For Gliders & Ultralights; Ultrasonic
Switch For Mains Appliances; The Basics Of A/D & D/A Conversion.
September 1994: Automatic Discharger For Nicad Batteries; MiniVox
Voice Operated Relay; AM Radio For Weather Beacons; Dual Diversity
Tuner For FM Mics, Pt.2; Electronic Engine Management, Pt.12.
March 1997: 175W PA Amplifier; Signalling & Lighting For Model
Railways; Jumbo LED Clock; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.7.
October 1991: A Talking Voltmeter For Your PC, Pt.1; SteamSound
Simulator For Model Railways Mk.II; Magnetic Field Strength Meter;
Digital Altimeter For Gliders, Pt.2; Military Applications Of R/C Aircraft.
October 1994: How Dolby Surround Sound Works; Dual Rail Variable
Power Supply; Talking Headlight Reminder; Electronic Ballast For
Fluorescent Lights; Electronic Engine Management, Pt.13.
December 1991: TV Transmitter For VCRs With UHF Modulators; IR
Light Beam Relay; Colour TV Pattern Generator, Pt.2; Index To Vol.4.
November 1994: Dry Cell Battery Rejuvenator; Novel Alphanumeric Clock; 80-M DSB Amateur Transmitter; 2-Cell Nicad Discharger.
May 1997: Neon Tube Modulator For Light Systems; Traffic Lights For
A Model Intersection; The Spacewriter – It Writes Messages In Thin
Air; A Look At Signal Tracing; Pt.2; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.9.
April 1992: IR Remote Control For Model Railroads; Differential Input
Buffer For CROs; Aligning Vintage Radio Receivers, Pt.1.
December 1994: Car Burglar Alarm; Three-Spot Low Distortion Sinewave Oscillator; Clifford – A Pesky Electronic Cricket; Remote Control
System for Models, Pt.1; Index to Vol.7.
June 1997: PC-Controlled Thermometer/Thermostat; TV Pattern
Generator, Pt.1; Audio/RF Signal Tracer; High-Current Speed Controller For 12V/24V Motors; Manual Control Circuit For Stepper Motors.
January 1995: Sun Tracker For Solar Panels; Battery Saver For Torches;
Dual Channel UHF Remote Control; Stereo Microphone Preamplifier.
July 1997: Infrared Remote Volume Control; A Flexible Interface Card
For PCs; Points Controller For Model Railways; Colour TV Pattern
Generator, Pt.2; An In-Line Mixer For Radio Control Receivers.
November 1990: Connecting Two TV Sets To One VCR; Build An Egg
Timer; Low-Cost Model Train Controller; 1.5V To 9V DC Converter;
Introduction To Digital Electronics; A 6-Metre Amateur Transmitter.
January 1991: Fast Charger For Nicad Batteries, Pt.1; Have Fun With
The Fruit Machine (Simple Poker Machine); Two-Tone Alarm Module;
The Dangers of Servicing Microwave Ovens.
February 1991: A Practical Approach To Amplifier Design; Synthesised
Stereo AM Tuner; Three Inverters For Fluorescent Lights; Low-Cost
Sinewave Oscillator; Fast Charger For Nicad Batteries, Pt.2.
May 1991: 13.5V 25A Power Supply For Transceivers; Stereo Audio
Expander; Fluorescent Light Simulator For Model Railways; How To
Install Multiple TV Outlets, Pt.1.
July 1991: Loudspeaker Protector For Stereo Amplifiers; 4-Channel
Lighting Desk, Pt.2; How To Install Multiple TV Outlets, Pt.2; Tuning
In To Satellite TV, Pt.2.
June 1992: Multi-Station Headset Intercom, Pt.1; Video Switcher For
Camcorders & VCRs; IR Remote Control For Model Railroads, Pt.3;
15-Watt 12-240V Inverter; A Look At Hard Disk Drives.
October 1992: 2kW 24VDC - 240VAC Sinewave Inverter; Multi-Sector
Home Burglar Alarm, Pt.2; Mini Amplifier For Personal Stereos; A
Regulated Lead-Acid Battery Charger.
ORDER FORM
February 1995: 2 x 50W Stereo Amplifier Module; Digital Effects Unit
For Musicians; 6-Channel LCD Thermometer; Wide Range Electrostatic
Loudspeakers, Pt.1; Remote Control System For Models, Pt.2.
April 1997: Simple Timer With No ICs; Digital Voltmeter For Cars;
Loudspeaker Protector For Stereo Amplifiers; Model Train Controller;
A Look At Signal Tracing; Pt.1; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.8.
October 1997: 5-Digit Tachometer; Central Locking For Your Car; PCControlled 6-Channel Voltmeter; 500W Audio Power Amplifier, Pt.3.
Please send the following back issues:________________________________________
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Note: prices include postage & packing
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details or fax the details to (02) 9979 6503.
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siliconchip.com.au
November 1997: Heavy Duty 10A 240VAC Motor Speed Controller;
Easy-To-Use Cable & Wiring Tester; Build A Musical Doorbell; Replacing Foam Speaker Surrounds; Understanding Electric Lighting Pt.1.
December 1997: Speed Alarm For Cars; 2-Axis Robot With Gripper;
Stepper Motor Driver With Onboard Buffer; Power Supply For Stepper
Motor Cards; Understanding Electric Lighting Pt.2; Index To Vol.10.
Preamplifier, Pt.1; Message Bank & Missed Call Alert; Protoboards –
The Easy Way Into Electronics, Pt.3.
December 2000: Home Networking For Shared Internet Access; White
LED Torch; 2-Channel Guitar Preamplifier, Pt.2 (Digital Reverb); Driving
An LCD From The Parallel Port; Index To Vol.13.
January 1998: 4-Channel 12VDC or 12VAC Lightshow, Pt.1; Command
Control For Model Railways, Pt.1; Pan Controller For CCD Cameras.
January 2001: How To Transfer LPs & Tapes To CD; The LP Doctor –
Clean Up Clicks & Pops, Pt.1; Arbitrary Waveform Generator; 2-Channel
Guitar Preamplifier, Pt.3; PIC Programmer & TestBed.
February 1998: Telephone Exchange Simulator For Testing; Command
Control For Model Railways, Pt.2; 4-Channel Lightshow, Pt.2.
February 2001: An Easy Way To Make PC Boards; L’il Pulser Train
Controller; A MIDI Interface For PCs; Build The Bass Blazer; 2-Metre
Groundplane Antenna; LP Doctor – Clean Up Clicks & Pops, Pt.2.
April 1998: Automatic Garage Door Opener, Pt.1; 40V 8A Adjustable
Power Supply, Pt.1; PC-Controlled 0-30kHz Sinewave Generator;
Understanding Electric Lighting; Pt.6.
May 1998: 3-LED Logic Probe; Garage Door Opener, Pt.2; Command
Control System, Pt.4; 40V 8A Adjustable Power Supply, Pt.2.
June 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.2; Universal High Energy
Ignition System; The Roadies’ Friend Cable Tester; Universal Stepper
Motor Controller; Command Control For Model Railways, Pt.5.
July 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.3; 15W/Ch Class-A Audio
Amplifier, Pt.1; Simple Charger For 6V & 12V SLA Batteries; Auto
matic Semiconductor Analyser; Understanding Electric Lighting, Pt.8.
August 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.4; I/O Card With Data Logging; Beat Triggered Strobe; 15W/Ch Class-A Stereo Amplifier, Pt.2.
September 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.5; A Blocked Air-Filter
Alarm; Waa-Waa Pedal For Guitars; Jacob’s Ladder; Gear Change
Indicator For Cars; Capacity Indicator For Rechargeable Batteries.
October 1998: AC Millivoltmeter, Pt.1; PC-Controlled Stress-O-Meter;
Versatile Electronic Guitar Limiter; 12V Trickle Charger For Float Conditions; Adding An External Battery Pack To Your Flashgun.
November 1998: The Christmas Star; A Turbo Timer For Cars; Build
A Poker Machine, Pt.1; FM Transmitter For Musicians; Lab Quality AC
Millivoltmeter, Pt.2; Improving AM Radio Reception, Pt.1.
December 1998: Engine Immobiliser Mk.2; Thermocouple Adaptor
For DMMs; Regulated 12V DC Plugpack; Build A Poker Machine, Pt.2;
Improving AM Radio Reception, Pt.2; Mixer Module For F3B Gliders.
January 1999: High-Voltage Megohm Tester; A Look At The BASIC
Stamp; Bargraph Ammeter For Cars; Keypad Engine Immobiliser.
March 2001: Making Photo Resist PC Boards; Big-Digit 12/24 Hour
Clock; Parallel Port PIC Programmer & Checkerboard; Protoboards –
The Easy Way Into Electronics, Pt.5; A Simple MIDI Expansion Box.
April 2001: A GPS Module For Your PC; Dr Video – An Easy-To-Build
Video Stabiliser; Tremolo Unit For Musicians; Minimitter FM Stereo
Transmitter; Intelligent Nicad Battery Charger.
May 2001: 12V Mini Stereo Amplifier; Two White-LED Torches To
Build; PowerPak – A Multi-Voltage Power Supply; Using Linux To
Share An Internet Connection, Pt.1; Tweaking Windows With TweakUI.
March 2004: PC Board Design, Pt.2; Build The QuickBrake For Increased
Driving Safety; 3V-9V (or more) DC-DC Converter; ESR Meter Mk.2,
Pt.1; PICAXE-18X 4-Channel Datalogger, Pt.3.
September 2001: Making MP3s; Build An MP3 Jukebox, Pt.1; PCControlled Mains Switch; Personal Noise Source For Tinnitus; Directional Microphone; Using Linux To Share An Internet Connection, Pt.4.
April 2004: PC Board Design, Pt.3; Loudspeaker Level Meter For Home
Theatre Systems; Dog Silencer; Mixture Display For Cars; ESR Meter
Mk.2, Pt.2; PC/PICAXE Interface For UHF Remote Control.
November 2001: Ultra-LD 100W/Channel Stereo Amplifier, Pt.1; Neon
Tube Modulator For Cars; Audio/Video Distribution Amplifier; Build A
Short Message Recorder Player; Useful Tips For Your PC.
May 2004: Amplifier Testing Without High-Tech Gear; Component Video
To RGB Converter; Starpower Switching Supply For Luxeon Star LEDs;
Wireless Parallel Port; Poor Man’s Metal Locator.
December 2001: IR Transceiver For PCs; 100W/Ch Stereo Amplifier,
Pt.2; Pardy Lights Colour Display; PIC Fun – Learning About Micros.
June 2004: Dr Video Mk.2 Video Stabiliser; Build An RFID Security
Module; Fridge-Door Alarm; Courtesy Light Delay For Cars; Automating PC Power-Up; Upgraded Software For The EPROM Programmer.
March 2002: Mighty Midget Audio Amplifier Module; 6-Channel
IR Remote Volume Control, Pt.1; RIAA Pre-Amplifier For Magnetic
Cartridges; 12/24V Intelligent Solar Power Battery Charger.
November 1999: Setting Up An Email Server; Speed Alarm For Cars,
Pt.1; LED Christmas Tree; Intercom Station Expander; Foldback Loudspeaker System; Railpower Model Train Controller, Pt.2.
December 2003: How To Receive Weather Satellite Images; SelfDiagnostics Plug For Cars; PC Board Design, Pt.3; VHF Receiver For
Weather Satellites; Linear Supply For Luxeon 1W Star LEDs; 5V Meter
Calibration Standard; PIC-Based Car Battery Monitor; PICAXE Pt.10.
August 2001: DI Box For Musicians; 200W Mosfet Amplifier Module;
Headlight Reminder; 40MHz 6-Digit Frequency Counter Module; A PC
To Die For, Pt.3; Using Linux To Share An Internet Connection, Pt.3.
May 1999: The Line Dancer Robot; An X-Y Table With Stepper Motor
Control, Pt.1; Three Electric Fence Testers; Carbon Monoxide Alarm.
October 1999: Build The Railpower Model Train Controller, Pt.1;
Semiconductor Curve Tracer; Autonomouse The Robot, Pt.2; XYZ
Table With Stepper Motor Control, Pt.6; Introducing Home Theatre.
November 2003: PC Board Design, Pt.2; 12AX7 Valve Audio Preamplifier; Our Best Ever LED Torch; Smart Radio Modem For Microcontrollers; PICAXE Pt.9; Programmable PIC-Powered Timer.
February 2004: PC Board Design, Pt.1; Supply Rail Monitor For PCs;
Studio 350W Power Amplifier Module, Pt.2; Shorted Turns Tester For
Line Output Transformers; PICAXE-18X 4-Channel Datalogger, Pt.2.
February 2002: 10-Channel IR Remote Control Receiver; 2.4GHz
High-Power Audio-Video Link; Touch And/Or Remote-Controlled Light
Dimmer, Pt.2; Booting A PC Without A Keyboard; 4-Way Event Timer.
September 1999: Autonomouse The Robot, Pt.1; Voice Direct Speech
Recognition Module; Digital Electrolytic Capacitance Meter; XYZ Table
With Stepper Motor Control, Pt.5; Peltier-Powered Can Cooler.
October 2003: PC Board Design, Pt.1; JV80 Loudspeaker System; A
Dirt Cheap, High-Current Power Supply; Low-Cost 50MHz Frequency
Meter; Long-Range 16-Channel Remote Control System.
July 2001: The HeartMate Heart Rate Monitor; Do Not Disturb Telephone
Timer; Pic-Toc – A Simple Alarm Clock; Fast Universal Battery Charger,
Pt.2; A PC To Die For, Pt.2; Backing Up Your Email.
April 1999: Getting Started With Linux; Pt.2; High-Power Electric
Fence Controller; Bass Cube Subwoofer; Programmable Thermostat/
Thermometer; Build An Infrared Sentry; Rev Limiter For Cars.
August 1999: Remote Modem Controller; Daytime Running Lights For
Cars; Build A PC Monitor Checker; Switching Temperature Controller;
XYZ Table With Stepper Motor Control, Pt.4; Electric Lighting, Pt.14.
September 2003: Robot Wars; Krypton Bike Light; PIC Programmer;
Current Clamp Meter Adapter For DMMs; PICAXE Pt.8 – A Data Logger;
Digital Instrument Display For Cars, Pt.2.
January 2004: Studio 350W Power Amplifier Module, Pt.1; HighEfficiency Power Supply For 1W Star LEDs; Antenna & RF Preamp
For Weather Satellites; Lapel Microphone Adaptor For PA Systems;
PICAXE-18X 4-Channel Datalogger, Pt.1; 2.4GHZ Audio/Video Link.
January 2002: Touch And/Or Remote-Controlled Light Dimmer, Pt.1;
A Cheap ’n’Easy Motorbike Alarm; 100W /Channel Stereo Amplifier,
Pt.3; Build A Raucous Alarm; FAQs On The MP3 Jukebox.
July 1999: Build A Dog Silencer; 10µH to 19.99mH Inductance Meter;
Audio-Video Transmitter; Programmable Ignition Timing Module For
Cars, Pt.2; XYZ Table With Stepper Motor Control, Pt.3.
August 2003: PC Infrared Remote Receiver (Play DVDs & MP3s On
Your PC Via Remote Control); Digital Instrument Display For Cars,
Pt.1; Home-Brew Weatherproof 2.4GHz WiFi Antennas; PICAXE Pt.7.
June 2001: Universal Battery Charger, Pt.1; Phonome – Call, Listen In &
Switch Devices On & Off; Low-Cost Automatic Camera Switcher; Using
Linux To Share An Internet Connection, Pt.2; A PC To Die For, Pt.1.
March 1999: Build A Digital Anemometer; DIY PIC Programmer; Build
An Audio Compressor; Low-Distortion Audio Signal Generator, Pt.2.
June 1999: FM Radio Tuner Card For PCs; X-Y Table With Stepper Motor
Control, Pt.2; Programmable Ignition Timing Module For Cars, Pt.1.
July 2003: Smart Card Reader & Programmer; Power-Up Auto Mains
Switch; A “Smart” Slave Flash Trigger; Programmable Continuity Tester;
PICAXE Pt.6 – Data Communications; Updating The PIC Programmer
& Checkerboard; RFID Tags – How They Work.
April 2002:Automatic Single-Channel Light Dimmer; Pt.1; Water Level
Indicator; Multiple-Output Bench Power Supply; Versatile Multi-Mode
Timer; 6-Channel IR Remote Volume Control, Pt.2.
May 2002: 32-LED Knightrider; The Battery Guardian (Cuts Power When
the Battery Voltage Drops); Stereo Headphone Amplifier; Automatic
Single-Channel Light Dimmer; Pt.2; Stepper Motor Controller.
July 2002: Telephone Headset Adaptor; Rolling Code 4-Channel UHF
Remote Control; Remote Volume Control For The Ultra-LD Stereo
Amplifier; Direct Conversion Receiver For Radio Amateurs, Pt.1.
August 2002: Digital Instrumentation Software For PCs; Digital Storage
Logic Probe; Digital Therm./Thermostat; Sound Card Interface For PC
Test Instruments; Direct Conversion Receiver For Radio Amateurs.
September 2002: 12V Fluorescent Lamp Inverter; 8-Channel Infrared
Remote Control; 50-Watt DC Electronic Load; Spyware – An Update.
October 2002: Speed Controller For Universal Motors; PC Parallel Port
Wizard; Cable Tracer; AVR ISP Serial Programmer; 3D TV.
July 2004: Silencing A Noisy PC; Versatile Battery Protector; Appliance
Energy Meter, Pt.1; A Poor Man’s Q Meter; Regulated High-Voltage
Supply For Valve Amplifiers; Remote Control For A Model Train Layout.
August 2004: Video Formats: Why Bother?; VAF’s New DC-X Generation
IV Loudspeakers; Video Enhancer & Y/C Separator; Balanced Microphone Preamp; Appliance Energy Meter, Pt.2; 3-State Logic Probe.
September 2004: Voice Over IP (VoIP) For Beginners; WiFry – Cooking
Up 2.4GHz Antennas; Bed Wetting Alert; Build a Programmable Robot;
Another CFL Inverter.
October 2004: The Humble “Trannie” Turns 50; SMS Controller, Pt.1;
RGB To Component Video Converter; USB Power Injector; Remote
Controller For Garage Doors & Gates.
November 2004: 42V Car Electrical Systems; USB-Controlled Power
Switch (Errata Dec. 2004); Charger For Deep-Cycle 12V Batteries, Pt.1;
Driveway Sentry; SMS Controller, Pt.2; PICAXE IR Remote Control.
December 2004: Build A Windmill Generator, Pt.1; 20W Amplifier
Module; Charger For Deep-Cycle 12V Batteries, Pt.2; Solar-Powered
Wireless Weather Station; Bidirectional Motor Speed Controller.
January 2005: Windmill Generator, Pt.2; Build A V8 Doorbell; IR Remote
Control Checker; 4-Minute Shower Timer; The Prawnlite; Sinom Says
Game; VAF DC-7 Generation 4 Kit Speakers.
February 2005: Windmill Generator, Pt.3; USB-Controlled Electrocardiograph; TwinTen Stereo Amplifier; Inductance & Q-Factor Meter,
Pt.1; A Yagi Antenna For UHF CB; $2 Battery Charger.
December 1999: Solar Panel Regulator; PC Powerhouse (gives +12V,
+9V, +6V & +5V rails); Fortune Finder Metal Locator; Speed Alarm For
Cars, Pt.2; Railpower Model Train Controller, Pt.3; Index To Vol.12.
November 2002: SuperCharger For NiCd/NiMH Batteries, Pt.1;
Windows-Based EPROM Programmer, Pt.1; 4-Digit Crystal-Controlled
Timing Module; Using Linux To Share An Optus Cable Modem, Pt.1.
March 2005: Windmill Generator, Pt.4; Sports Scoreboard, Pt.1; Swimming Pool Lap Counter; Inductance & Q-Factor Meter, Pt.2; Shielded
Loop Antenna For AM; Cheap UV EPROM Eraser; Sending Picaxe Data
Over 477MHz UHF CB; $10 Lathe & Drill Press Tachometer.
January 2000: Spring Reverberation Module; An Audio-Video Test
Generator; Parallel Port Interface Card; Telephone Off-Hook Indicator.
December 2002: Receiving TV From Satellites; Pt.1; The Micromitter
Stereo FM Transmitter; Windows-Based EPROM Programmer, Pt.2;
SuperCharger For NiCd/NiMH Batteries; Pt.2; Simple VHF FM/AM Radio;
Using Linux To Share An Optus Cable Modem, Pt.2.
April 2005: Install Your Own In-Car Video (Reversing Monitor, In-Car
Navigation, etc); Build A MIDI Theremin, Pt.1; Bass Extender For Hifi
Systems; Sports Scoreboard, Pt.2; SMS Controller Add-Ons; A $5
Variable Power Supply.
March 2000: Resurrecting An Old Computer; 100W Amplifier Module,
Pt.1; Electronic Wind Vane With 16-LED Display; Glowplug Driver.
January 2003: Receiving TV From Satellites, Pt 2; SC480 50W RMS
Amplifier Module, Pt.1; Gear Indicator For Cars; Active 3-Way Crossover
For Speakers; Using Linux To Share An Optus Cable Modem, Pt.3.
May 2005: Getting Into Wi-Fi, Pt.1; Build A 45-Second Voice Recorder;
Wireless Microphone/Audio Link; MIDI Theremin, Pt.2; Sports Scoreboard, Pt.3; Automatic Stopwatch Timer.
May 2000: Ultra-LD Stereo Amplifier, Pt.2; LED Dice (With PIC Microcontroller); 50A Motor Speed Controller For Models.
February 2003: PortaPal PA System, Pt.1; SC480 50W RMS Amplifier
Module, Pt.2; Windows-Based EPROM Programmer, Pt.3; Using Linux
To Share An Optus Cable Modem, Pt.4; Fun With The PICAXE, Pt.1.
June 2005: Looking At Laptops; Getting Into Wi-Fi, Pt.2; The Mesmeriser LED Clock; Coolmaster Fridge/Freezer Temperature Controller; Alternative Power Regular; PICAXE Colour Recognition System;
AVR200 Single Board Computer, Pt.1.
February 2000: Multi-Sector Sprinkler Controller; A Digital Voltmeter
For Your Car; Safety Switch Checker; Sine/Square Wave Oscillator.
June 2000: Automatic Rain Gauge; Parallel Port VHF FM Receiver;
Switchmode Power Supply (1.23V to 40V) Pt.1; CD Compressor.
July 2000: Moving Message Display; Compact Fluorescent Lamp Driver;
Musicians’ Lead Tester; Switchmode Power Supply, Pt.2.
March 2003: LED Lighting For Your Car; Peltier-Effect Tinnie Cooler;
PortaPal PA System, Pt.2; 12V SLA Battery Float Charger; Little Dynamite Subwoofer; Fun With The PICAXE, Pt.2 (Shop Door Minder).
August 2000: Theremin; Spinner (writes messages in “thin-air”);
Proximity Switch; Structured Cabling For Computer Networks.
April 2003: Video-Audio Booster For Home Theatre Systems; Telephone
Dialler For Burglar Alarms; Three PIC Programmer Kits; PICAXE, Pt.3
(Heartbeat Simulator); Electric Shutter Release For Cameras.
September 2000: Swimming Pool Alarm; 8-Channel PC Relay Board;
Fuel Mixture Display For Cars, Pt.1; Protoboards – The Easy Way Into
Electronics, Pt.1; Cybug The Solar Fly.
May 2003: Widgybox Guitar Distortion Effects Unit; 10MHz Direct
Digital Synthesis Generator; Big Blaster Subwoofer; Printer Port
Simulator; PICAXE, Pt.4 (Motor Controller).
October 2000: Guitar Jammer; Breath Tester; Wand-Mounted Inspection Camera; Subwoofer For Cars; Fuel Mixture Display, Pt.2.
June 2003: PICAXE, Pt.5; PICAXE-Controlled Telephone Intercom;
PICAXE-08 Port Expansion; Sunset Switch For Security & Garden
Lighting; Digital Reaction Timer; Adjustable DC-DC Converter For Cars;
Long-Range 4-Channel UHF Remote Control.
November 2000: Santa & Rudolf Chrissie Display; 2-Channel Guitar
siliconchip.com.au
July 2005: Getting Into Wi-Fi, Pt.3; Remote-Controlled Automatic Lamp
Dimmer; Lead-Acid Battery Zapper; Serial Stepper Motor Controller;
AVR200 Single Board Computer, Pt.2; Salvaging & Using Thermostats;
Unwired Modems & External Antennas; PICAXE in Schools, Pt.4.
August 2005: The Mudlark A205 Valve Stereo Amplifier; Programmable
Flexitimer; Carbon Monoxide Alert; Serial LCD Driver; Enhanced Sports
Scoreboard; Salvaging Washing Maching Pressure Switches.
PLEASE NOTE: issues not listed have sold out. All other issues are in
stock. We can supply photostat copies from sold-out issues for $8.80
per article (includes p&p). When supplying photostat articles or back
copies, we automatically supply any relevant notes & errata at no
extra charge. A complete index to all articles published to date can
be downloaded free from our web site: www.siliconchip.com.au
September 2005 99
Vintage Radio
By RODNEY CHAMPNESS, VK3UG
The Sprague 500 multi-band receiver
Ever wondered how interference to radio and
TV reception is tracked down? In the 1960s, it
was done used specialised multi-band receivers
such as the Sprague 500.
The Sprague Electric Company of
America produced a wide range of
electrical components and other apparatus. They also produced a number of
specialised radio receivers, generically
described as “Interference Locators”.
These Sprague receivers nominally
covered the frequency range from
around 550kHz up to at least 220MHz.
In practice, they were mainly used to
trace sources of interference to radio
and television reception (and occa-
sionally to 2-way radios), although
they were never originally intended
to be used for this purpose.
In order to successfully track down
interference, it was necessary that the
sets be fully portable. This meant that
they could be powered from an inbuilt
battery, as well as from 110/120V and
240V AC power. The internal wet-cell
battery was automatically recharged
whenever the unit was connected to
the mains.
In this case, “portability” is a relative term as the Sprague 500 weighs in
at a hefty 12.5kg and measures 333mm
high x 320mm long x 200mm wide. At
the time of its manufacture (around
1960), portable equipment was still
quite heavy and bulky.
The Sprague 400 was the first in
this line of receivers, followed by the
model 500 in 1959 (the last of the
“valved” units). This was then followed by the model 600, model 610
and finally, the model 700 in 1977. I
understand that either Eddystone or
Belling Lee (I’m not sure which) also
made an interference tracing receiver
but I’ve not seen one.
I’ve personally used all the Sprague
models at one time or another, with the
exception of the 400. In my opinion,
the 500 was the best – it gave minimal
spurious responses and boasted good
design and mechanical quality.
Despite being well and truly obsolete by the late 1980s, the 500 soldiered
Below: the front and back
pages of the operating
manual.
The front panel of the Sprague 500 Interference Locator had a rather
utilitarian appearance and carried a comprehensive array of controls.
100 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
RF AMP
6AN4
RF
ATTEN
MIXER
1/2
6CG8
Fig.1: block diagram of the Sprague 500 Interference
Locator. A conventional BC/SW front-end based on a
6BJ6 RF amplifier and a 6BR8 oscillator/mixer covers
the first five bands to 54MHz, while a second front-end
based on a modified VHF TV tuner (6AN4 & 6CG8)
covers the 54-220MHz band.
S METER
OSC
1/2
6CG8
SPEAKER
1ST IF AMP
6BJ6
RF AMP
6BJ6
2ND IF AMP
6BJ6
DETECTOR
1ST AF AMP
6AQ6
6AQ6
1/3
1/3
AF
OUTPUT
6AK6
MIXER
1/2
6BR8
OSC
1/2
6BR8
AGC RECT
B+
HT (B+)
CONVERTER
6V
6-VOLT
BATTERY
1/3
PHONE
JACK
6AQ6
BATTERY
CHARGER
on well after many of the later models
had been pensioned off. In some cases,
they were even modified to suit the
requirements of the government department that used them!
But even the venerable 500 couldn’t
keep going indefinitely. It was bulky,
lacked the sensitivity of later equipment and didn’t have facilities to
trace interference in the UHF band. It
also lacked facilities for multi-mode
reception and spectrum analyser
operation. In the end, it was the Icom
R7000 receiver that took over where
the Sprague 500 left off.
The Sprague 500
A quick glance at the Sprague 500
reveals that it’s not the sort of set you
would set up in a lounge room. Unlike domestic radio receivers, it has
a very utilitarian appearance, with a
grey “crinkle-finish” aluminium case
and a front panel style that resembles
an item of test equipment. It also has
a carrying handle and a fabric strap to
aid portability.
As previously stated, the receiver
tunes from 550kHz to 220MHz over
six bands. Its dial scale is located
behind the meter case on the top
left of the panel, while a second
meter at right is “calibrated” for
relative RF (radio frequency)
signal level. The knob in the
centre is the on-off control
and is also used to switch on
the inbuilt battery charger.
The tuning control is at the bottom
left of the panel, followed (from left
to right) by the volume, band-change,
meter zero and RF attenuator controls.
siliconchip.com.au
This view inside the Sprague 500 shows the top of the chassis. Note the
large number of alignment adjustments.
In use, the RF attenuator is adjusted so
that the meter needle stays somewhere
near the centre of the meter scale, even
when the RF probe used with the set is
quite close to the source of interference
being traced.
On the righthand side of the panel
is a jack for a set of low-impedance
headphones (the set has an inbuilt
100mm speaker as well), plus a BNC
coaxial cable socket for the signal
input. Finally, a neon indicator at the
top left of the panel lights when the
set is turned on.
Antennas
The specialised antennas used with
the unit are generally mounted onto
September 2005 101
The receiver case is
hinged at the base and
is opened by releasing
four latches. That
done, the unit can be
separated into two
halves by unplugging
the 11-pin plug/socket
connection and then
sliding the hinge apart.
a socket at the top of the front panel.
These antennas and other accessories
include a telescoping rod or dipole
antenna (depending on how it is set
up), a directional loop antenna for
broadcast band reception, an RF probe,
a roof mounting bracket for the antennas, two coaxial cables, a canvas carry
case and a set of headphones.
The cover that protects the frontpanel controls is missing on my unit,
as it is on all the sets I have seen. That’s
because it was invariably regarded as
a nuisance by the operator and discarded. In addition, the headphones,
the roof mounting bracket and most
of the other accessories were rarely
used. In practice, the sets were mostly
used in cars and an antenna mounted
permanently on the vehicle was connected to the set via a 50-ohm RG58
coaxial cable.
Circuit details
The circuit is quite conventional
and uses eight valves. The first five
bands cover to 54MHz using a conventional BC/SW front-end based
on a 6BJ6 RF amplifier and a 6BR8
working as the oscillator and mixer.
The Sprague 500 receiver was supplied
with a range of accessories, including
several antennas.
102 Silicon Chip
The 54-220MHz band is covered using a second front end. This uses a
modified incrementally-tuned VHF
TV tuner, with a 6AN4 as a grounded
grid RF stage and a 6CG8 oscillator
and mixer stage.
The rest of the receiver is common to both front ends. It consists of
two 6BJ6 IF amplifier stages, a 6AQ6
detector/AGC and first audio amplifier
stage, and finally, a 6AK6 as the audio
output stage. AGC is applied to both IF
stages and the signal strength meter is
wired into the plate and screen circuit
of the first IF amplifier.
The IF amplifier is more complicated than the 455kHz IF stages found
in domestic receivers. On the three
bands up to 14MHz, the IF is 455kHz,
but on the three bands above 14MHz,
it’s 10.7MHz. The broader IF on the
higher frequencies means that it is
much easier to tune VHF signals, as
there is no bandspread in the tuning
system. The wave-change/tuner/IF
selector is quite a complex switch,
with no less than 14 sections!
AGC is applied only to the two IF
stages which means that, on strong
signals, the unit is prone to overload.
That’s where the attenuator comes
into play – it’s situated between the
antenna terminal and the RF amplifier and is used to reduce the signal
strength. Note that, in some cases, the
siliconchip.com.au
signal strength can be quite high; eg, if
the detection probe is just a few centimetres from the interference source.
Power supply
With the exception of the 6BR8 and
6CG8 oscillator/mixers, the valves are
all low heater current types and also
draw low HT (high tension) current.
The HT is only 120V on the plates of
the valves and this helps to reduce
the set’s current drain – important for
minimising the load on the internal
lead-acid battery.
The battery was a special 6V 20Ah
type which is no longer available. To
further reduce the current drain, the
valve heaters in each front-end were
powered only when that particular
tuner was being used. This meant that
if you switched from band A to band
F (or vice versa, you had to wait for
about 20 seconds for the selected tuner
to become operational.
In operation, the receiver is powered
from the 6V battery at all times. This
battery is continuously float-charged
when the set is plugged into the AC
mains, except when the power switch
is set to one of the charge positions.
In the latter case, the battery can be
charged at a “slow” or “fast” rate. The
battery also acts as a ripple filter for
the power supply.
The charging circuit isn’t regulated,
so it was necessary to observe the
hydrometer balls in the battery to determine its state of charge. This was
quite easy to do, as each battery cell
could be viewed through special holes
in the back of the cabinet.
It’s also interesting to note that the
battery used was an early leak-proof
design. It had several inches of rubber
tubing going up from the filler on the
battery. This meant that accidentally
tipping the set over did not cause acid
to spill (these sets were produced
before fully sealed batteries were commonly available).
As mentioned before, this battery is no longer available but a 6V
sealed lead-acid battery of around
10Ah capacity will fit into the space
available.
Because the set operates from 6V,
it was necessary to include a DC-DC
converter to provide a 120V HT rail.
This was achieved using a simple
2-transistor inverter circuit.
Getting it going
In Australia, these sets were used
siliconchip.com.au
This view shows the power supply, speaker and battery compartment after
is has been separated from the rest of the case.
extensively by the Radio Branch of
the Postmaster General’s Department
(PMG), for tracing interference to radio
and TV reception. As a result, they led
a fairly hard life, although most units
generally survived quite well.
However, the cases usually took a
battering and the paint was chipped
and worn away on many units. The
front panel markings also tended to
wear with extensive use. It all meant
that these sets did look rather “beaten
up” towards the end of their working
life.
Restoring the case
In my case, I managed to obtain
three of these sets and quite a few of
the accessories, including an operating
manual – that latter including a circuit
diagram and a lot of other helpful information. I picked the one with the
best cabinet and front panel and did
a bit of swapping around of some the
bits and pieces from the three units to
get the very best set I could.
The receiver case is hinged at the
base and is opened by releasing four
latches. That done, the unit can be
separated into two halves by unplugging the 11-pin plug/socket connection
and then sliding the hinge apart. The
power supply can then be worked on
without further dismantling the set.
If necessary, the receiver chassis can
be removed from the case by undoing
the 11 screws that secure both it and
the front panel in position. Once this
is done, access to the underside of the
receiver chassis is quite good.
Unfortunately, various holes had
been drilled into both the case and
the front panel of each set. These
were repaired by first gluing a small
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76 Bluff Rd, St Leonards, 3223
Tel: (03) 5257 2297; Fax: (03) 5257 1773
Email: evatco<at>pacific.net.au
www.evatco.com.au
September 2005 103
Photo Gallery: Aristocrat Battery Console
That done, I “colour-matched” the
original paint and, using a spray pack,
painted the whole of the outside of the
case. I also spray-painted the cleaned
area inside the case where the battery
had been.
The front panel is a slightly different
colour to the rest of the case, so this
too was “colour-matched” to retain an
authentic appearance. This paint job
also covered a Plasti-Bond repair to a
hole in the front panel. It’s not perfect
– the edge of the hole can still be seen
if you look closely enough but it’s still
quite good.
The aluminium handle also has
a wooden section attached to it and
the paint on this had well and truly
disappeared from most of its surface.
I sanded the handle lightly, then handpainted it with black enamel so that it
now looks like new.
Circuit tweaks
Manufactured by Electrical Specialty Manufacturing Company Ltd, Sydney,
in 1935, this receiver was intended for use in areas not supplied with mains
power. It was fitted into an Art-Deco style cabinet and required a 2V accumulator for the valve filaments and a 135V dry battery for the HT. The valve
line-up was as follows: 34 RF amplifier, 15 autodyne mixer, 34 IF amplifier,
30 detector, 30 audio amplifier and 19 push-pull audio output stage. Photo:
Historical Radio Society of Australia, Inc.
The Sprague 500 receivers have always been reliable sets and restoration
has usually been quite simple. The
power supplies were trouble free and a
sealed lead-acid battery is quite easy to
fit in place of the original battery.
Occasionally, a valve needs to be
replaced but that’s quite rare as all
the valves were run well below their
maximum ratings. A full RF alignment
is also sometimes required but the IF
amplifier stages usually remained in
tune. The passive components were
also very reliable and seldom require
replacement.
The alignment points for the RF
sections of the set are accessed when
the case is split in two. That done,
the two sections can be laid alongside each other and the 11-pin plug/
socket reconnected. Be careful when
operating the set like this though, as
the mains is exposed at one point in
the power supply!
Aligning the IF stages is a bit more
complicated, as the chassis must be
removed from its case section to gain
access to half the adjustments. This
takes a while to do but it’s not as hard
as dismantling an AWA 617T.
Summary
piece of metal behind each hole (using
Araldite), after which the holes were
filled with Plasti-Bond and allowed
to set. The Plasti-Bond was then carefully sanded down until it was level
with the front of the panel, ready for
painting.
104 Silicon Chip
Another problem area was corrosion
inside the case where the battery is
mounted, no doubt due to acid leakage
at some stage in the past. I scrubbed
the affected area with soapy water
and a scouring pad and it came up
quite well.
Due to its specialised nature, this
is not a receiver that would appeal
to a large number of restorers. In fact,
I doubt that there are even a dozen
such units in the hands of restorers
in Australia, as it is now a relatively
SC
rare receiver.
siliconchip.com.au
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Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Write to: Ask Silicon Chip, PO Box 139, Collaroy Beach, NSW 2097; or
send an email to silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au
Line output adaptor
for iPod player
Here is an idea for a project: an audio
adaptor from a 30-ohm headphone
output to line input. There are so many
iPods and stuff with headphone-only
outputs in use now. It would be nice to
connect it properly to bigger systems.
(R. S., Tanunda, SA).
• Such an interface would be only a
resistor or two, no gain being required.
You would just need a 33W resistor
to simulate the headphone load and
perhaps a 1kW resistor in series with
the line output.
Electrical problems in
old Commodore
I am trying to help my daughter who
has advised me that the headlights on
her 1986 Holden Commodore are very
dull and she is finding it hard to see
properly at night. Other than tell her
to drive on high beam and see if other
drivers react, can you advise what she
could do? Much appreciated. (B. S.,
Penrith, NSW).
• The first step would be to replace
the lamps and then clean the reflectors. That done, check that all con-
nections in the circuit are clean and
low resistance – you might even have
to replace the headlight relay if its
contacts are worn. Check its socket
contacts as well.
Also check the battery and voltage
regulator to see that they are putting
out at least 13V when the engine is
above idle. On any car that is almost 20
years old, the whole electrical system
probably needs a thorough checkout.
It might be a job for your local auto
electrician.
Possible error in
table lamp dimmer
I was having a close look at the
remote-controlled table lamp dimmer
in the July 2005 issue and believe that
there is a serious error in the circuit.
I am sure you would have already detected it as I can’t see how the project
would work.
On page 29 of the magazine, the
circuit shows the top power line as
being both +5V and 240VAC, in effect.
I was wondering if the line should
have a break between, say, the 2.2kW
resistor on pin 4 of IC1 and the Triac.
Perhaps I have missed something but
it looks like there is no 5V rail, as this
Viewing DVDs On A VGA Monitor
I basically need to connect my
DVD component video signals to the
VGA connector of my PC monitor.
I’ve found the article on “Component Video to RGB Converter”
(SILICON CHIP, May 2004) interesting. However, this article is mainly
for TVs with RGB and composite
sync input.
In the case of a PC monitor, the
VGA connector is actually RGBHV,
where the sync signals are separated. So I am wondering if I can
modify the circuit like this: (1) use
the LM1881 pin 1 (composite sync)
as the horizontal sync output to the
siliconchip.com.au
VGA; and (2) use the LM1881 pin 3
(vertical sync) as the vertical sync
output to the VGA.
Do you expect there will be problem with this circuit? The problem
I can think of is that the PC monitor
is expecting a sync rate which is
different from what is coming out
of the DVD. I’m not quite sure about
this and your help is appreciated.
(Andy, by email).
• It won’t work. VGA sweep
speeds are radically different
from PAL signals. The easiest
way is to use a computer with a DVD
player.
line comes straight from the 240VAC
mains. This would mean that pin 14
(Vdd) is at 240VAC potential. Have I
missed something?
I still enjoy the articles regardless;
always learning something. (D. W.,
via email).
• This is not an error. The 5V rail in
the circuit floats from the incoming
Active line of the 240VAC mains, as
you suggest, and it is derived via the
220nF 250VAC capacitor, 1kW 1W
resistor and zener diode ZD1. This is
explained on page 31 of the article.
Using the Coolmaster
as a heater control
Could the Coolmaster fridge controller from the June 2005 issue be used
to switch a heater instead of a cooler,
with minor changes?
My understanding of electronics
is limited but could it be as simple
as swapping the inputs of pins 2 and
3 of the LM311 or is there a different
chip which operates in the same way
but with the output inverted? Alternatively, is there an equivalent to the
LM335Z that has an inverse temperature response? (A. M., via email).
• Your surmisal is correct. If you
want to use the Coolmaster circuit to
control a heater, this can be achieved
by reversing the connections to input
pins 2 and 3 of the LM311. This will
be a bit tricky in practice though, as the
PC board is quite small and congested,
particularly in that area.
Note that there are two tracks connecting to the pin 2 pad and both
will have to be swapped over to the
pin 3 pad.
Coolmaster for motor
protection application
I would like to modify the Coolmaster temperature controller (June 2005)
so that it will switch off the 240VAC
power line when a temperature sense
point of 65°C is reached. If this is possible, I will purchase the kit.
September 2005 105
When Is The Battery Zapper Finished?
I have found reading about the
Lead-Acid Battery Zapper in the
July 2005 issue interesting. One
question though: how does one
know when the battery is rejuvenated (after using the project)? (M.
P., Christchurch, NZ).
• Good question. It might take
several days or more of zapping to
get a result. Then you need to test
whether the battery will accept a
charge; ie, a charge of several amps
or more, that takes a reasonable time
for the battery voltage to come up
to 14V or so.
The battery should also begin
to “gas” (ie, produce bubbles in
The application is to protect the
winding of a 240VAC single-phase
sanitary pump motor. According to the
supplier, on full load the current draw
of the pump is 5A and at start up it is at
least 15A. The existing “protection” of
a small bimetallic switch on the active
phase has failed to protect the winding.
The contacts welded together, resulting in a cooked motor.
Could I swap the inputs to pins 2
& 3 on the LM311 so that a rise in
temperature would turn pin 9 low and
ultimately, switch the Triac off? Would
I need to uprate the Triac? Or should
I leave the sensing circuit alone and
use the MOC3021 output to switch
the Triac off?
When you investigate the price of
commercial electronic motor protection relays which use a PTC thermistor
I think there would be a ready market
for such a kit. (T. J., via email).
• We would not recommend modifying the Coolmaster to protect a motor
winding. Instead, we would suggest
the use of a 60° thermal circuit breaker,
with a rated current of 10A. These
are available from Altronics, Cat No
S-5600. Their website is www.altronics.com.au
More current for
Luxeon driver circuit
I recently obtained one of the new
Luxeon III red LEDs for some optical
communication experiments. To efficiently power it, I bought one of your
106 Silicon Chip
the cells) if it is being charged at a
reasonable rate.
Ultimately, the only way to confirm that the zapping has worked is
to put the battery through a number
of charge and discharge cycles so
that you can measure its actual
capacity. In fact, you might find
that it needs a series of zap/charge/
discharge cycles to bring the battery
up to its maximum capacity.
Of course, some batteries will be
so far gone that the zapping process
is unable to reverse the process of
sulphation or it might be that the
plates have shed material – a process that is irreversible.
Starpower (April 2004) kits.
However, I’ve discovered that the
red, red/orange and amber Luxeon
IIIs can take a lot more current than
the older blue/green/white ones. 1.4A
is the suggested operating level compared to 1A for the older ones.
The Starpower is designed for a
maximum current of 1A. Is there a way
to modify it to provide 1.4A for the red
Luxeon III? (D. S., via email).
• The StarPower can drive a single
red, red-orange or amber Luxeon III
Star at maximum current (1.4A) with
a few modifications, as follows:
(1). Use a 0.068W (0.5W or higher) resistor for R1. A 0.1W resistor in parallel
with a 0.22W resistor is suitable.
(2). Use a 390pF ceramic disc for C1.
(3). Replace the 0.15W 5W resistor with
a value of 0.1W.
(4). Use 1mm wire for the inductor (L1)
and wind on only 16 turns, spaced
evenly over the core area.
Visual Basic for
electrocardiograph
In the February 2005 edition, you
published an article on the “USBControlled Electrocardiograph”. On
page 24 it said that the program was
programmed with Visual Basic version
6. I have Microsoft Visual Basic and I
was wondering if there is a difference.
Secondly, no matter how many times
I ask the Windows Office Assistant, I
cannot find any code relating to the
USB cable. If you could give me some
advice, it would be greatly appreciated. (J. F., Bendigo, Vic).
• There are quite a few versions of
Visual Basic. There was the original
version, for DOS-level programming
(called VBDOS), and then six different
versions of the Windows-based version: Visual Basic Versions 1-6, each of
which was an upgraded version of the
one before. More recently, they were
all supposedly replaced with VisualBasic.NET, which is the only version
sold nowadays. However, many of us
prefer to keep using VB6, the one used
to write the ECG program.
To program communication with
a device connected to the computer
via a USB cable, you need to use what
is known as a USB device driver – a
small program written especially to
communicate with the device concerned, via a USB port. With the ECG
project, we used a USB interface on
the ECG board which was based on a
chip made by the Scottish firm FTDI,
who made it easy because they make
a matching driver program available
free on their website.
Actually, they make two different
drivers available but we used the
one which makes the USB port you
connect to behave like another serial
data port (ie, a virtual COM port). This
allows you to communicate with the
device in Visual Basic using VB’s plugin serial data control DCOM98. This
doesn’t actually come with VB6 but
you can download it from Microsoft’s
Visual Basic website.
Radio interference to
Driveway Sentry
I have successfully built the Driveway Sentry (November 2004), from a
kit of parts supplied by Jaycar. The
project has worked well, installed
at the start of our 70m driveway on
a 5-acre property; just the job for the
situation where the main living area in
the house is blind to the driveway.
There is just one problem: every
time I transit on the 2-metre amateur
band, at even low power levels (<5W),
the alarm goes off! Transmitting on
HF frequencies, even at 100W, has no
effect. I’ve tried various solutions like
placing ferrite beads on all the wires
leading into the control unit, bypassing the power and buzzer leads with
various values of ceramic capacitors,
etc, all with no effect.
The 2-metre transmitter is a base
siliconchip.com.au
Notes & Errata
Fig.1 (left): the parts
shown in red (D4 &
ZD2) are necessary to
protect the IRF540N
Mosfet from voltage
spikes.
Fig.2 (right): the extra
parts can be added to
the copper side of the
PC board, as shown
here.
Lead-Acid Battery Zapper, July
2005: the parts list on page 43 states
that Q2 is a 60V device, whereas its
VDSS rating is actually 100V. Also,
on the circuit diagram (Fig.2), the
pinout diagram for Q2 is labelled
“IRF640N” instead of “IRF540N”.
In certain situations, the Mosfet
(Q2) may fail due to excessive drainto-source voltage. To ensure that
this cannot occur, a clamp circuit
should be added to limit the peak
voltage to a safe level. The clamp
consists of a 75V, 1W zener diode
(ZD2) in series with a UF4004
ultra-fast rectifier (D4), connected
between the drain and source of
Q2 (see Fig.1).
A modified PC board design that
Coolmaster Fridge/Freezer Temperature Controller, June 2005:
a 2.2kW resistor was erroneously
included in the parts list and is not
required.
Serial LCD Driver, August 2995:
transistor Q2 on the overlay diagram
unit located well away from the sensor, while the aerial is mounted well
off the ground and properly matched.
The odd passing taxi has also set it off.
Any suggestions?
I am toying with the idea of replacing the box with a metal one but that
won’t have much effect if the RF is
getting in along the leads. It takes the
shine off what is otherwise a very reliable design. (N. D., Perth, WA).
siliconchip.com.au
accommodates these extra parts will
be available in the future. For those
that have the original published PC
board design, the two components
are easily added to the copper
(underside) of the board, as shown
in Fig.2.
The anode lead of the UF4004 is
soldered to drain pin of Q2, whereas
the anode of the 75V zener is soldered to the source pin of Q2. Their
cathode leads are then trimmed and
Fig.3: the on-off switch can be
mounted in the case next to the
fuse. The 10nF capacitor across the
switch reduces contact arcing.
soldered together. Note that both
components must be positioned
flat against the PC board surface,
with their leads shaped roughly as
shown. Overall lead length should
be kept to a minimum, and as a
final step, the diodes can be glued
to the PC board to ensure long-term
reliability.
Finally, we recommend that a
switch be fitted in series with the
positive battery lead to allow the
unit to be isolated during connection and disconnection. This
eliminates the possibility of arcing
at the battery terminals. Any miniature mains-rated switch would be
suitable, such as the Jaycar SK-0975
miniature toggle switch.
A 10nF 100V polyester capacitor (Jaycar RG-5065) must be fitted
directly across the switch terminals,
as shown in Fig.3.
(page 76) is shown reversed. The
various photos and the silk screen
on the PC board show the correct
orientation.
Carbon Monoxide Alert, August
2005: the 4-band colour code listed
for the 470W 1% resistor is incor-
rect. It should be yellow violet
brown brown.
Automatic Lamp Dimmer, September 2005: the 4-band colour code
listed for the 470W 1% resistor is
incorrect. It should be yellow violet
brown brown.
•
We doubt that the 2-metre signals
are getting into the Sentry via the sensor or sensor cable. It is more likely
that it’s getting into the PC board either
via the power supply or by direct radiation through the plastic box.
So your idea of fitting the board in
a metal shielding box is probably the
right way to go. We expect this to stop
the false triggering but if it doesn’t,
you could try fitting ferrite beads on
the sensor cable wires right next to the
terminal block on the PC board.
Digital audio adaptor
for home theatre
I have several pieces of equipment
that have coax and/or optical audio
outputs. My home theatre amplifier
has only one coax and one optical input. At the moment, I have to unplug
September 2005 107
How To Simplify The PowerUp
In relation to the USB-activated
power board (November 2004) and
with cross-reference to the PowerUp circuit (July 2003), is it possible to create a simpler version of
the PowerUp using the driver and
Triac arrangement from the USB
power board and a voltage sensor
in the Neutral connection of one
selected outlet “master” – the latter
using a diode string, wirewound
resistor, rectifier and smoothing to
supply the optocoupler?
I think even a power-point reversal would keep the same potential
drop across the arrangement. Obviously, it is not an isolation device
as 240VAC mains potential can still
exist across the slave outlet/s. Using this arrangement, it would be
one piece and replace it with another
if I want digital sound.
Is there a coax or optical adaptor
available to build that would allow
all pieces to be connected at the same
time? I would only ever use one sound
source at any one time so I am basically
looking for a unit that saves the need
to swap plugs. (R. T., via email).
• You can buy an optical switcher
from Jaycar, Cat AC-1675 for $19.95.
Noise-cancelling
in the home
Have you ever had a project with
regards to noise cancellation? I live
near a very noisy highway and have
heard that the noise can be nulled by
recording the sound then playing it
simple to install in a power board
with three or four outlets, giving
one master and one or two slave
outlets.
Making use of the original USB
PC board is possible with the sensor
in heatshrink sleeving. I am hoping
it could be a simple, cheap energysaving device. My kids love to leave
all the home theatre on when they
turn off the TV. (J. P., via email).
• We don’t think your suggested
approach is workable, especially if
it is to be built into a power board. It
would not be sufficient to just sense
Neutral current because you have
to detect the difference between
the current drawn by the TV (or
whatever) on standby and normal
operation.
back through an amplifier in reverse.
Any chance of such a project? (J. G.,
Perth, WA).
• Such noise-cancelling techniques
are practical in noise-cancelling headphones and in cars such as the latest
Honda Legend but it is probably not
practical in a larger environment such
as a room. If it was to be done, it would
involve having a microphone outside
the window to pick up the noise which
would be then amplified and reversed
in phase to the noise in the room.
Folding number
plate controller
I went to an electronics store with
the question of how could I make
number plates on my car fold down. I
was told the best option would be to
use a stepper motor. I would like the
motor to turn the plates either through
90° or 180° but do not know how to
construct the circuit for such a thing.
Could you please help me find a solution? (E. J., via email).
• It is probable that folding down the
number plates of a registered vehicle is
illegal. Having said that, if you wanted
to do it (and had a legal reason), it
would be easier using servos. Have a
look at the tilt and pan control circuit
in the January 1998 issue.
Charging VRSLA
batteries
I read with interest some of your
questions and answers on the topic
of sealed lead acid batteries and the
charging thereof. Are you able to point
me in the right direction for a concise
explanation of the different SLAs
available, the best chargers for each
and the don’ts associated with each?
I work in a golf buggy shop and am
continually confronted with questions
on VRSLAs, AGM and gel cell SLAs
and what charger suits what. I understand the charging requirements in
particular for a gel SLA are different to
that of a normal SLA. Often, customers
come in with Arlec or Projecta type
chargers and it is difficult to advise if
they are suitable for their needs.
Any ideas how I can determine if
a customer’s charger is doing what it
should and what the different SLAs
require? (L. T., via email).
• There are no easy answers. You need
to see the battery maker’s specs to see
the recommended charge rates and end
voltages. Most simple car chargers are
not really suitable for SLAs, as they
will ultimately over-charge them. SC
WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage.
All such projects should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely.
Readers are warned that high voltage wiring should be carried out according to the instructions in the articles.
When working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do not accidentally come into contact with
mains AC voltages or high voltage DC. If you are not confident about working with projects employing mains voltages
or other high voltages, you are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd disclaims any
liability for damages should anyone be killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue
of SILICON CHIP magazine. Devices or circuits described in SILICON CHIP may be covered by patents. SILICON
CHIP disclaims any liability for the infringement of such patents by the manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also disclaims any liability for projects which are used in such a way as to infringe relevant
government regulations and by-laws.
Advertisers are warned that they are responsible for the content of all advertisements and that they must conform to the Trade Practices Act 1974 or as subsequently amended and to any governmental regulations which are
applicable.
108 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
MARKET CENTRE
Cash in your surplus gear. Advertise it here in Silicon Chip.
CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING RATES
Advertising rates for this page: Classified ads: $22.00 (incl. GST) for up to 20
words plus 66 cents for each additional word. Display ads: $36.00 (incl. GST) per
column centimetre (max. 10cm). Closing date: five weeks prior to month of sale.
To run your classified ad, print it clearly in the space below or on a separate sheet
of paper, fill out the form & send it with your cheque or credit card details to: Silicon
Chip Classifieds, PO Box 139, Collaroy, NSW 2097. Alternatively, fax the details
to (02) 9979 6503 or send an email to silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au
Taxation Invoice ABN 49 003 205 490
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Name _____________________________________________________
Street _____________________________________________________
Suburb/town ___________________________ Postcode______________
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siliconchip.com.au
FOR SALE
MORE CONTROL SOLUTIONS for you:
Netiom Link – automatically transfer
digital inputs and outputs between two
cards over an Ethernet link
Labjack USB Data Acquisition Module
features 8 12-bit analog inputs, 20 digital
I/O, 2 analog outputs and high speed
counter. Free software DaqFactory
Express, Labview driver and ActiveX
component.
Signal Conditioners non isolated and
isolated – convert thermocouples, RTDs
to 4-20mA or 0-10V. Fully programmable.
Pixel Programmable Controller with
4 analog inputs, 8 digital inputs and
8 relay outputs. Uses a Picaxe 28X.
Programmed in BASIC.
Temperature and humidity sensors
N1500 universal process indicator.
Budget-priced displays thermocouple,
RTD, 4-20mA and 0-5V readings. Fully
programmable.
Box of Connectors – choose BNC,
UHF, N Type or RS232 gender
changers and converters together.
Serial and Parallel port relay controller
cards.
Pump and Trip Alarm Controller card.
Duty-Standby operation.
MicroProgrammers for Atmel and PIC
chips.
2, 4 & 8 Relay Cards suitable for TTL
and Open Collector Outputs
DC, Stepper and Servo Motor controller
kits.
Switch-Mode, Battery Chargers and
DC-DC converters.
Full details and credit card ordering available at www.oceancontrols.com.au.
Helping to put you in control.
WEATHER STATIONS: windspeed &
direction, inside temperature, outside
temperature & windchill. Records highs
& lows with time and date as they occur.
Optional rainfall and PC interface. Used
by government departments, farmers,
pilots and weather enthusiasts. Other
models with barometric pressure, humidity, dew point, solar radiation, UV,
leaf wetness, etc. Just phone, fax or write
September 2005 109
New New New
Mark22-SM
Slimline Mini FM R/C Receiver
Wi-Fi
2.4GHz Antennas
Directionals
Omnis
We also stock:
•
•
•
•
•
6 Channels
10kHz frequency separation
Size: 55 x 23 x 20mm
Weight: 25gm
Modular Construction
Price: $A129.50 with crystal
Electronics
PO Box 580, Riverwood, NSW 2210.
Ph/Fax (02) 9533 3517
email: youngbob<at>silvertone.com.au
Website: www.silvertone.com.au
Panel Antennas
Ceiling Antennas
Low-loss 50 Ω cable
Connectors
Pigtails
Access Points
Masts
Amplifiers
Power-over-Ethernet
External Enclosures
Everything you need for WiFi!
FREENET-ANTENNAS
Web: www.freenet-antennas.com
Email: sales<at>freenet-antennas.com
Tel: (08) 9319 3275 (int +618 9319 3275)
Fax: (08) 9319 1720 (int +618 9319 1720)
TAIG MACHINERY
Micro Mini Lathes and Mills
From $489.00
Stepper motors: 200 oz in $89.00, 330 oz in $110.00
Digital verniers: 150mm $55.00, 200mm $65.00
59 Gilmore Crescent
(02) 6281 5660
Garran ACT 2605
0412269707
Foam surrounds,voice coils,cones and more
Original parts for Dynaudio,Tannoy and others
Expert speaker repairs – 20 years experience
Australian agents for
products
Trade welcome – email for your user ID
Phone (03) 9647 7000
speakerbits.com.au
Select your microcontroller kit
and get started...
Fax a copy of
From
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Feature rich, compiler, editor & debugger
with royalty free TCP/IP stack
• Prices exclude GST and delivery charges.
for our FREE catalog and price list. Eco
Watch phone: (03) 9761 7040; fax: (03)
9761 7050; Unit 5, 17 Southfork Drive,
Kilsyth, Vic. 3137. ABN 63 006 399 480.
USB KITS: GPIB Interface, Thermostat
Tester, LCD Module Interface, Stepper Motor Controller, PIO Interface,
DTMF Transceiver, Thermometer, DDS
HF Generator, Compass, 4 Channel
Voltmeter, I/O Relay Card, USB via
LabVIEW. Also available: Digital Oscilloscope, Temperature Loggers, VHF
Receivers and USB ActiveX (and USBDOS.exe file) to control our kits from
your own application. www.ar.com.
au/~softmark
SUPERBRIGHT LEDS from just 15
cents each, including new wide angle
range! 12 volt LED lightbars, great for
solar/camping. Nixie tubes and nixie
110 Silicon Chip
clock kits. Lots of other stuff, and always
more items being added. New webshop
now online! www.ledsales.com.au
RCS RADIO/DESIGN is at 41 Arlewis
St, Chester Hill 2162, NSW Australia
and has all the published PC boards
from SC, EA, ETI, HE, AEM & others.
Ph (02) 9738 0330. sales<at>rcsradio.
com.au, www.rcsradio.com.au
S-Video . . . Video . . . Audio . . . VGA
distribution amps, splitters, standards
converters, tbc’s, switchers, cables, etc,
& price list: www.questronix.com.au
ImageCraft C Compilers: 32-bit
Windows IDE and compiler. For AVR,
68HC08, 68HC11, 68HC12, 68HC16.
from $330.00
Atmel Flash CPU Programmer: Handles the 89Cx051, 89C5x, 89Sxx in
Tel: + 61 2 9906 6988
Fax: + 61 2 9906 7145
www.dominion.net.au
4007
both DIP and PLCC44 and some AVR’s,
most 8-pin EEPROMS. Includes socket
for serial ISP cable. $220, $11 p&p.
SOIC adaptors: 20 pin $132.00, 14 pin
$126.50, 8 pin $121.00.
Full details on web-site. Credit cards
accepted. GRANTRONICS PTY LTD,
PO Box 275, Wentworthville 2145. (02)
9896 7150 or http://www.grantronics.
com.au
PCBs MADE, ONE OR MANY. Any
format, hobbyists welcome. Sesame
Electronics Phone (02) 9593 1025.
sesame<at>sesame.com.au
www.sesame.com.au
P-Tronics – Electronic Services &
siliconchip.com.au
Do You Eat, Breathe and Sleep TECHNOLOGY?
Opportunities for full-time and part-time positions all over Australia & New Zealand
Jaycar Electronics is a rapidly growing, Australian
owned, international retailer with more than 39 stores in
Australia and New Zealand. Our aggressive expansion
programme has resulted in the need for dedicated
individuals to join our team to assist us in achieving our
goals.
We pride ourselves on the technical knowledge of our
staff. Do you think that the following statements describe
you? Please put a tick in the boxes that do:
Knowledge of electronics, particularly at component level.
Assemble projects or kits yourself for car, computer, audio, etc.
Have empathy with others who have the same interest as you.
May have worked in some retail already (not obligatory).
Have energy, enthusiasm and a personality that enjoys
helping people.
Appreciates an opportunity for future advancement.
Have an eye for detail.
Why not do something you love and get paid for it? Please
write or email us with your details, along with your C.V.
and any qualifications you may have. We pay a
competitive salary, sales commissions and have great
benefits like a liberal staff purchase policy.
Send to:
Retail Operations Manager - Jaycar Electronics Pty Ltd
P.O. Box 6424 Silverwater NSW 1811
Email: jobs<at>jaycar.com.au
Jaycar Electronics is an equal opportunity employer and
actively promotes staff from within the organisation.
Advertising Index
555 Electronics.............................51
Amateur Scientist CD ..................47
Altronics................................. 72-75
ATA...............................................49
Av-Comm...................................111
Delta Audio.....................................7
Dick Smith Electronics........... 16-21
Dominion Electronics............49,110
Eco Watch..................................109
Satellite TV Reception
ELNEC IC PROGRAMMERS
International satellite
TV reception in your
home is now affordable.
Send for your free info
pack containing equipment catalog, satellite
lists, etc or call for appointment to view.
We can display all satellites from 76.5°
to 180°.
Universal and
specialised models
High quality
Realistic prices
Large range of adaptors
Free regular software updates
Windows 95/98/Me/NT/2k/XP
AV-COMM P/L, 24/9 Powells Rd,
Brookvale, NSW 2100.
Tel: 02 9939 4377 or 9939 4378.
Fax: 9939 4376; www.avcomm.com.au
GRANTRONICS PTY LTD
PO Box 275, Wentworthville. 2145.
Ph: 02 9896 7150
Repairs. Alarms/Immobilisers, TVs,
Home Theatre Set-Ups. PIC Project
Development & Designs. Ph: (08) 8277
7560 Fax: (08) 8276 7478 Adelaide S.A.
Patrick<at>p-tronics.com.au
Ortofon, SME, Western Electric, Altec, Marantz, McIntosh, Goodmans,
Wharfedale, Tannoy, radio and wireless.
Collector/Hobbyist will pay cash. (02)
9440 1267. johnmurt<at>highprofile.
com.au
Elexol...........................................51
Evatco........................................103
FreeNet Antennas......................110
Furzy Electronics........................110
Grantronics.................................110
Harbuch Electronics.....................62
Instant PCBs..............................110
www.grantronics.com.au
Jaycar .................IFC, 53-60,65,111
JED Microprocessors................5,65
Microgram Computers....................3
MicroZed Computers....................93
Ocean Controls..........................109
CARBIDE PCB DRILL KITS:1/8in
shaft, new or as new condition, 10 mixed
sizes from 0.5-1.15mm. $25 inc p&p
Australia. altectronics<at>bigpond.com
WANTED
WANTED: EARLY HIFIs, AMPLIFIERS, Speakers, Turntables, Valves,
Books, Quad, Leak, Pye, Lowther,
KIT ASSEMBLY
H Heavy board covers with mottled dark green
vinyl covering H Each binder holds up to 12
issues H SILICON CHIP logo printed on spine
& cover.
Price: $A12.95 plus $A7 per order (Australia
only; not available elsewhere). Buy five and get
them postage free.
Just fill in & mail the handy order form in this
issue; or fax (02) 9979 6503; or ring (02) 9979
5644 & quote your credit card number.
siliconchip.com.au
Prime Electronics.........................64
Quest Electronics..................65,110
Radiometrix..............................OBC
RCS Radio.................................110
RF Probes......................................7
NEVILLE WALKER KIT ASSEMBLY
& REPAIR:
• Australia wide service
• Small production runs
• Specialist “one-off” applications
Phone Neville Walker (07) 3857 2752
Email: flashdog<at>optusnet.com.au
Silicon Chip Binders
Ozitronics..................................7,49
REAL
VALUE
AT
$12.95
PLUS P
&
P
SC Perf Elect. For Cars.......112,IBC
SC Projects For Cars, Vol.2..........25
Silicon Chip Binders...................111
Silicon Chip Bookshop........... 96-97
Silicon Chip Subscriptions...........61
Silvertone Electronics................110
Siomar Batteries..........................25
Speakerbits................................110
Taig Machinery...........................110
Telelink.........................................65
____________________________
PC Boards
Printed circuit boards for SILICON
CHIP projects are made by:
RCS Radio Pty Ltd. Phone (02) 9738
0330. Fax (02) 9738 0334.
September 2005 111
From the publishers of
The Lat
SILICON
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n
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t
n
o
C
UND
TECH BACKGRO
Intelligent
turbo timer
I SBN 095852294 - 4
TURBO BOOST
& nitrous fuel controllers
9 780958 522946
$19.80 (inc GST) NZ $22.00 (inc GST)
How engine
management works
We’ll let the
contents speak
for themselves:
Not a reprint – new projects and articles not
published before
Learn how engine management works
Build projects to control nitrous, fuel injection
and turbo boost systems
Switch devices on and off on the basis of signal
frequency, temperature and voltage
Build test instruments to check fuel injector
duty cycle, fuel mixture and brake and coolant
temperatures
P L U S L O T S MORE
112 Silicon Chip
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siliconchip.c
Order direct from SILICON CHIP Publications
Price: Aust. $A22.50 (inc. GST & p&p); Overseas $A26.00 (inc. p&p via airmail). Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd,
PO Box 139 Collaroy, NSW, Australia 2097. Phone (02) 9939 3295; Fax (02) 9939 2649. Email silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au
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September 2005 113
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